{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3233", "width": "2434", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "c cac\\n1\\n^SM\\nCCCCCc\\naxe i:\\nc err c\\nc c cccc-\\nCc CCC cc\\nc? c cc cc\\nr cc c cc cc\\nC C ^CC Cc\\nC cc CcCCCc\\nC C C vC LCC\\nc c c CCC cc\\nvc C C .C cc\\nc c( c cc rcc\\nCL i^^C CXc\\n^c\\nCC c\u00e2\u0082\u00acaccc\\nc c c\\nc cc c\\nc a: c\\n^Vc^\\ncc\\n^cc\\nXC\\n.cc\\nC C\\nc c\\n_ cc\\nc^\\ncjc:\\nr^c i^\\nJo.._CjC ccC\\n(J Cv\u00e2\u0082\u00acLc dCcC\\nO-CCC\\nC Ccct^c\\nc c cc\\nC CCC\\nrccct\\nLIBRARY OF CONGRESS.\\nChap. Copymlit No.\\nSlielf....^\u00e2\u0080\u009e_?^i\\nUNITED STATES OF AMERICA.\\n:ccc\\n-^c c c:\\nxce\\ncrcc^\\n4^7.\\nC c C c\\n^CT\\nC c c c\\n^^T\\nC c Cc\\no c c\\ncc CC\\nCCCC 4\\n^pc\\ncc. C4\\nCC C4\\n^1\\nCcxiC\\n^raC\\ni ^t.\\n^X\u00c2\u00a7^^\\n%i\\ndTCCCC\\nc c 4:\\nc \u00e2\u0082\u00ac:^cc cc3C\\nC CCC c^^\\nc\u00c2\u00abccc: rcc\\n1 CCCCCCC\\ncc cc. cccccLdt\\nCCCC CCCCCCGC\\ncc CCCCCX^O-\\nc cc_ CCC r rc ^cc^\\nC CC C CC\\nC cc C^c\\nc cc C IC\\ncc CCC\\nC^ cc CCC\\nZ C C CCC\\njc: jC m\\nr ccccc\\n^-^aCCCcC^\\nxcc^\\nC OXC\\nc c vc cc\\nc ce cc_\\nc^k^^cr cc ex:", "height": "3106", "width": "2265", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "cxccc\\nr c ccc\\nC CCCC\\nC c c C\\nCO C !!C\\nc c\\nC( c\\nc cc^\\nC C r\\nC Cc c\\nc cc Cc\\nc ^c cc\\nC CC C\\nc :c c\\n^cc CC-\\n.\u00c2\u00abICC\\nc^:ct c\\nci C^\\n^c^ \u00c2\u00ab:_c\\nccc\u00c2\u00ab:cc:\\nc ^C C.\\n^V^\\nC CC\\nC CC\\nc cc\\nc cc\\nc cc\\nc- cc\\n-CC r\\nccc\\nre\\nc c\\nC(\\ncc\\nc\\nc cc\\nCC\\nCC\\nc c\\ncc\\ncc\\nC C C\\ncc", "height": "3128", "width": "2223", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3064", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3128", "width": "2223", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3064", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "5TP\u00c2\u00ae\\nIndianapolis,\\nEPIT0M15T PlSM NO Go\\nInd.", "height": "3128", "width": "2223", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL\\nPOULTRY CULTURE\\nA CONCISE AND PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANAGEMENT\\nOF POULTRY FOR PROFIT\\nr.r\\nBY\\nR. W. DAVISON\\nISSULD BY\\nTHE EPITOMIST PUBLISHING COMPANY\\nINDIANAPOLIS. INDIANA\\n1898\\nPrice 35 cents", "height": "3212", "width": "2265", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "12618\\nCopyright, 1898,\\nBY THE\\nEPITOMIST PUBLISHING COMPANY.\\nii9t^.\\nTWO COPIES RECEIVED-", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nThis little book is intended for those who are about\\nto embark on the troubled seas of p6ultry raising, or\\nthose who wish to gain new ideas on the subject. It is\\njust a plain, practical poultry book, giving the natural\\nand artificial methods of raising, together with some,\\nI trust, helpful hints all along the road.\\nI have tried to give, in concise form, what knowledge\\nI have gained from observation and personal work\\nduring the past fourteen years. I am indebted to the\\npoultry press for many ideas which I have tested and\\nfound reliable.\\nI have not attempted to deal in fancy poultry so\\ncalled and yet I bave found that thoroughbred poultry\\nis practical poultry; that is, the practical up-to-date\\npoullrymen use pure-bred poultry exclusively. I am\\nanxious to reach the farmer, for no matter how well he\\nunderstands general stock raising, he is, of all men,\\nmost ignorant when it comes to poultry. If this book\\nproves the means of helping some one over the many\\nhard places in poultry raising I will be satisfied.\\nR. W. Davison.\\n(iii)", "height": "3128", "width": "2223", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "TABLE OF CONTENTS.\\nCHAPTER I.\\nPAGE.\\nGovernment Statistics 3\\nHow to Start 4\\nThe Extent of the Poultry Industry of the United States 1\\nThe Different Varieties of Poultry 9\\nWhat Breeds to Use 5\\nCHAPTER II.\\nHatching (Nature s Method) 12\\nThe Breeding Stock 11\\nThe Chick, and How to Raise It (Nature s Method) 14\\nCHAPTER III.\\nArrangement of Poultry Plant 38\\nEffects of Yarding Fowls 33\\nFeeding for Eggs 23\\nFruit and Poultry 36\\nHousing 20\\nRemarks 28\\nSize and Color of Eggs 37\\nThe Eggs 30\\nThe Hen 18\\nThe Laying Period 18\\nThe Ration 26\\n(V)", "height": "3180", "width": "2223", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "VI TABLE OF CONTENTS.\\nCHAPTER IV.\\nArtificial Incubation. page.\\nEgg Tester 45\\nTesting the Eggs 44\\nThe Incubator 42\\nThe Moisture Question 47\\nThe Thermometer 45\\nTurning the Eggs 47\\nCHAPTER V.\\nBrooding Houses 55\\nFeeding Young Chicks 58\\nRemarks 69\\nThe Brooder 50\\nCHAPTER YI.\\nDressing for Market 71\\nDry Picking 74\\nGet a Reputation 78\\nKilling 73\\nPacking 75\\nScalded Chicks 76\\nCHAPTER YII.\\nThe Turkey.\\nBreeds 80\\nFeeding 81\\nLetters from Successful Turkey Raisers 86-92\\nYoung Turkeys 82\\nThe Duck.\\nAn Experiment 98\\nArtificial Incubation 95\\nBreeding 99\\nFood 94\\nFood for Young Ducks 96\\nMarketing 97\\nNoted Duck Districts 100\\nThe Duck House 94", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "TABLE OF CONTENTS. Vll\\nThe Goose. page.\\nBreeds 100\\nHatching 101\\nPicking 102\\nCHAPTER VIII.\\nDiseases of Poultry and Treatment.\\nApoplexy 116\\nBroken Bones 116\\nBumble Foot 116\\nChicken-pox 109\\nCholera 107\\nConstipation and Diarrhea Ill\\nCramps 115\\nDebility or Going Light 122\\nDiphtheria and Canker 112\\nDysentery 110\\nEgg-Bound 113\\nEgg Eating 124\\nFeather Eating 124\\nGapes 125\\nIndigestion 109\\nLeg Weakness 114\\nLice 127\\nLimber Neck 123\\nPip 122\\nPneumonia 119\\nRheumatism 114\\nRoup 104\\nScaly Legs 115\\nThe Comb 120\\nThe Crop 117\\nThe Liver 110\\nThe Lungs 118\\nThe Oviduct 113\\nWorms 123", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "TABLE OF CONTENTS.\\nCHAPTER IX. p^^^\\nCaponizing. 132\\nFood 1^2\\nInstruments 131\\nSize of Capon 131\\nSlips 132\\nWhen to Caponize\\nCHAPTER X.\\n140\\nA Cold-storage House ^39\\nKeeping Accounts\\nKeeping Eggs 136\\nSupply and Demand", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE\\nCHAPTER I.\\nTHE EXTENT OF THE POULTRY INDUSTRY OF THE UNITED\\nSTATES HOW TO START AND WHAT BREEDS TO USE\\nTHE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF POULTRY.\\nThe poultry business is supposed by many to be a\\nsmall business not worth the serious thoughts of our\\nagricultural colleges or of educated men. The fact is\\nthat the government has neglected its duty in this re-\\nspect, and we, therefore, have no sure figures to go by;\\nbut it is estimated, by those in a position to know, that\\nabout 1,820,000,000 dozen eggs are annually consumed\\nin the United States, and putting the average price per\\ndozen at twelve cents (far below an average), we have\\nthe grand total of $218,000,000, which is far more than\\nthe value of our combined output of iron and wool.\\nAlong side of these figures put the value of dressed poul-\\ntry and we have one of the most important industries in\\nthe United States. -It is estimated that 258,871,125\\nchickens, -10,544,080 turkeys, 8,440,175 geese, and\\n7,544,080 ducks are annually consumed. If we average\\nthis lot and put the value of each at fifty cents, which is\\n(1)", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "Z PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nabout one-third less than it should be, we have the grand\\ntotal of $360,699,730. Of course these figures do not in-\\nclude (excepting the estimate on eggs) the vast quanti-\\nty consumed by private families who raise and eat their\\nown fowls. Neither do they include that vast and\\ngrowing business commonly called the fancy trade,\\nor the sale of eggs and thoroughbred poultry for breed-\\ning purposes. The West is becoming the great center\\nof the poultry product. They lack the favorable mar-\\nkets of the East, but the cost of production is much\\nless, and refrigerator cars and especially arranged cars\\nfor live poultry, now carry the product quickly and\\neasily to the best market. To show the extent of this\\nrail traffic, we will state that during the forepart of 1895\\nthere was an average monthly shipment of no less than\\n100 car loads gathered up east of Kansas City, and car-\\nried East by one road only, and yet the poultry indus-\\ntry is constantly and rapidly growing. Will it soon be\\noverdone No, not while we, as we do, import over\\n$5,000,000 worth of eggs annually, and while there are\\nyet thousands of families who eat chicken but twice a\\nyear. It is stated on good authority that with some of\\nthe Missouri banks the exchange on the poultry prod-\\nuct is greater than from any other branch of trade.\\nThe writer believes that if a correct census was taken\\nof the poultry product it would be found to surpass, in\\nmoney value, the entire wheat product.\\nThe political economist has never imagined the hen\\nworthy of scientific consideration. The world could\\neasily survive the loss of all political economists, but\\nwhat a howling there would be if the neglected hen\\nshould be threatened with extermination.\\nIn the above we stated that the government had neg-\\nlected its duty in this respect, and so it has; but yet in", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 6\\nGovern- 1889 a census of the egg and poultry product\\nment was taken, and although it is official, yet\\nStatistics, it is far below the true values but we will\\ngive the figures, for it gives us something official\\nto work on.\\nThe number of chickens supposed to be in the United\\nStates in 1889 was 258,472,155, and other fow^ls (ducks,\\nturkeys and geese), 26,816,545. The number of dozen\\neggs produced in 1SS9, 817,211,146. At the very mod-\\nerate price of twelve cents a dozen the value of eggs\\nalone amounts to $98,000,000, or about $100,000,000\\nin 1890, allowing for a healthy growth, compared with\\nthe past years, or from 1880, when the first census was\\ntaken. In order to give some idea of the egg yield we\\nwill state that if we were to count these eggs (produced\\nin 1889), 9,806,533,752 (not dozens) at the rate of one\\na second, it would take us about nine years of 300\\nworking days each.\\nNow, then, in 1889 there were 285,288,700 fowls of\\nall kinds in the United States. If we use round num-\\nbers and call it 285,000,000 fowls for convenience\\nand each one worth twenty-five cents, we have the\\nsum of $71,250,000 as the value, but if we place the\\nvalue of each fowl at forty cents (which is nearer the\\ncorrect value), we have $114,000,000. Add this value\\nto the value of the egg product and we have a product\\nof $212,000,000. These figures do not include the\\namount of poultry and eggs consumed, but the value\\nof what we produce in one year. Neither do these fig-\\nures include the fancy trade. The broiler business\\nwas also in its infancy, w^e might say, in 1889 thus\\nwe look to see the next census double these values.\\nIt is simply impossible to get a correct value of the\\npoultry business, for every hamlet and log cabin has", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "4 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nits little flock; even good-sized towns have their ^back-\\nyard chicken-coops.\\nThe states which lead in the production of chickens\\nare as follows, in the order named Missouri, Illinois,\\nIowa, Kansas, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, Tennessee,\\nTexas, Pennsylvania, New York, North Carolina, Ne-\\nbraska, Georgia, Arkansas, Alabama, Michigan, Wis-\\nconsin and Mississippi.\\nThe states which produce the most turkeys, ducks,\\ngeese, etc., are in the following order Missouri, Illi-\\nnois, Kentucky, Iowa, Tennessee, Texas, Indiana, Kan-\\nsas, Michigan and Pennsylvania.\\nThe states which lead in all kinds of poultry are\\nMissouri, Illinois and Iowa.\\nOhio is the banner egg state, which produced in 1889\\nover 70,000,000 dozen following in the order given\\nare Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Pennsylvania, New York,\\nIndiana and Kansas.\\nLet the good work go on. It does not ask govern-\\nment aid, but it does ask to be classed in its proper\\nplace as one of the great industries of a great nation.\\nIt is well before starting in the poultry business,\\neither as a business or for pleasure, to face the fact that\\neveryone can not raise chickens. We will\\nStart. have to make up our mind to study and work.\\nThat there are many ups and downs, especially\\ndow^ns, and if w^e wish to make it an especial business\\nwe must invest large capital therein. There is no royal\\nroad to wealth in this business. Man must eat bread\\nby the sweat of his brow. We have been in the poul-\\ntry business long enough to know that there is a living\\nin it if properly managed, and judicial investments have\\nbeen made by practical and experienced men.\\nPeople are very slow to invest money in a business", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 5\\nthat they are familiar with. They know that location\\nand many other considerations will prove factors in fu-\\nture dealings, and yet people will invest largely in the\\npoultry business, of which they know nothing, and\\nwhen failure overtakes them the business gets the\\nblame.\\nWe will never advise a man to invest largely in poul-\\ntry unless he has experience to carry him through.\\nThe proper thing to do is to commence at the bottom\\nand gradually work up. Have some other occupation\\nthat will not require all your time, and devote the odd\\nmoments to poultry. In this way we can soon tell (in,\\nsay two or three years), when it will pay us to devote\\nall our time to poultry.\\nIt is a very fascinating occupation, and the person\\nwho once allows himself to thoroughly take the fever\\n(it is very contagious) will never wholly recover. He\\nmay be involved in railroads or politics, or he may take\\nup a profession, but somewhere in the back yard or\\nelsewhere he will still keep a pen or two of thorough-\\nbred fowls.\\nThe first question to be decided by the would-be poul-\\ntryman, is What do I want to make a specialty of\\n6ggs, market poultry, or both The major-\\nBreed, ^^y people wish to raise fowls for both\\neggs and market poultry, or eggs and broilers\\nor roasters. If we wish to take up the business\\nmerely for profitable pleasure, then several of the more\\nfancy so-called breeds can be selected, but where\\ndollars and cents count, then we would recommend\\nonly one breed, or at most, two. Thoroughbred poul-\\ntry, or first crosses, should alone be used for the laying\\nstock.\\nBy first crosses we mean the progeny from two dif-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "6 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nferent breeds of thoroughbreds. The pullets from this\\nfirst cross may be selected for layers, but there the\\ncrossing should stop, for it will only result in disaster,\\nunless the person making the selection perfectly under-\\nstands his business and has some definite object in\\nview. The crossing of two similar breeds, such as a\\nLeghorn on a Minorca or Red Cap, will produce noth-\\ning better than the parents. If our object is eggs, and\\na fair sized body is also desired, then we can cross a\\nLeghorn on a Plymouth Rock or Langshan. This will\\ngive us a good sized carcass, good layer (probably not\\nquite as good as the Leghorn pure) and a rapid, strong\\ngrower. If we desire a fine broiler or roaster, then we\\nshould mate an Indian Game cock on a Wyandotte hen,\\nand we will get just what we w^ant. Nothing will sur-\\npass this cross for the purpose, although an Indian\\nGame crossed on Light Brahmas will give us excellent\\nbirds. The main gain in crossing two breeds is strong,\\nhealthy offspring, but on the whole, we do not recom-\\nmend it, for eight persons out of ten who commence to\\ncross will end by making scrubs out of their fowls in-\\nside of three years. When thoroughbreds are raised\\nproperly they are hardy, and as we have some seventy-\\nfive different varieties (this includes different varieties\\nof a given breed) to choose from, it will be seen that\\nwe can select and breed just what we want. Of course\\nnew blood will have to be procured every second year,\\nalthough by judiciously selecting the largest, earliest\\nhatched and strongest cockerels from a large flock, w^e\\ncan fix desirable points and yet sustain our strain.\\nThis should never be practiced by the novice. It re-\\nquires somewhat of practice and experience. It must\\nbe remembered that the best laying breeds are not the\\nbest market breeds, and vice versa, therefore we should", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 7\\nselect with our object in view. The most popular breeds\\nnow used, especially for laying, are the several varieties\\nof the Leghorns and Minorcas, while the medium\\nweight breeds, general purpose, so-called, most in\\nfavor are the^ several varieties of Wyandottes and\\nPlymouth Rocks. Light Brahmas are the largest of\\nthoroughbreds and they and the Cochins make good\\nwinter layers in a cold climate. Being heavily feath-\\nered they can stand zero weather better than the smaller\\nvarieties. Indian Games and Dorkings are the best\\npurely market breeds we have. They are fair layers\\nalso, but their dressed carcass presents a morsel that is\\nhard to resist several morsels in fact, for they are\\ngood sized, weighing about the same as Plymouth\\nRocks.\\nWe have merely given the most popular breeds (ex-\\ncept Dorking, which are little bred in this country),\\nbut if any one has a preference for any other variety, he\\nshould stick to it, providing it is suitable to his needs.\\nWe should breed just what w^e most admire, for if we\\ncan add pleasure to profit, without sacrifice, we ought\\nto do it. Where our heart is, there we will be, literally\\nin the midst. The person who undertakes to raise\\npoultry on a large scale can not afford to take a day off\\ntwice in awhile. The business demands close applica-\\ntion, and every little detail will have to be personally\\nattended to. The hired man has been the cause of\\nmany failures.\\nThe breeding stock is the very foundation of the\\nbusiness and therefore should be bred and selected with\\ngreat care. It must be farm-raised with plenty of\\nroom, for if our chickens do not grow up strong an(i\\nhealthy we can not expect success. The hen, or breed-\\ning stock, is of the very first importance. Like priest,", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "8 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nlike people, applies to poultry in a peculiar sense, but\\nwe will touch on this later on.\\nThere is some controversy over the question of the\\nlaying powers of the pullet or hen. We have demon-\\nstrated, to our own satisfaction, that the pullet, if\\nhatched early and given a chance for a satisfactory\\ngrowth, will make the better fall, winter and spring\\nlayer. With May, the hen (two years old or over) com-\\nmences to pick up, and by June or July she is doing\\nabout as well as the pullet. We are presuming that\\nboth have been laying, more or less, all winter. As a\\ngeneral rule, after a hen reaches her second moult, she\\nhas passed her profitableness, although there are occa-\\nsionally hens that will lay well until three or four years\\nold. Do not dispose of a hen that has proved a good\\nlayer. Pick out all such and keep them separate so\\nlong as they prove profitable. Those who are in the\\nbusiness for eggs rely solely on early hatched pullets,\\nthey being far more reliable. If, however, broilers are\\ndesired early, then it is a question, which will give the\\nbetter results. The generally accepted rule is, pullets\\nfor eggs, hens for chickens. This applies to early win-\\nter chicks. By spring the pullet will be sufficiently\\ndeveloped to give us healthy chicks. We have never\\nbeen able to test this question as it should be tested,\\nbut we have had good results from early, well-matured\\npullet eggs, even when used for hatching in November.\\nThe main question is perfect development. If cocker-\\nels are used, they should be hatched not later than\\nMarch 10th, but the general rule is to mate cocks with\\npullets and cockerels with hens.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2The American Poultry Association is composed of\\nthe leading Fanciers in the country. Every five", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 9\\nTh D ff y^^^ publishes a book called The Amer-\\neut Varie- lean Standard of Perfection. More prop-\\nties of Poul- erly speaking, every five years it publishes\\na new edition, making slight alterations and\\nadding any new breeds that are found worthy.\\nThis book is the law and the guide for the judges at\\nour shows. It describes minutely every breed or vari-\\nety of poultry. It deals with ideal specimens, and by\\nstudying its pages we can see how nearly our birds\\ncome to the ideal as given in the Standard. It is sold\\nby all poultry publications at one dollar, and should be\\nin the hands of every poultry man, whether he is breed-\\ning for points or not.\\nFor those who do not own a copy, or who are not fa-\\nmiliar with the different varieties of poultry, we will\\ngive a list which will be nearly complete.\\nThe Mediterranean class comprises the smaller breeds,\\nand are the egg layers. It is composed of Leghorns\\nBrown, Rose Comb Brown, White, Rose Comb White,\\nBlack, Dominique, Buff and Silver Duckwing Minor-\\ncas White, Black, Blue Andalusian, and Black Span-\\nish. We also have (among the egg-layers or smaller\\nvarieties) Red Caps; Houdans Hamburgs\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Black,\\nGolden Penciled, Golden Spangled, Silver Penciled,\\nSilver Spangled and White Campines Golden, Silver.\\nIn the American class, or general purpose class, we\\nhave Plymouth Rocks Barred, Buff, Pea-Combed\\nBarred, White Wyandottes Silver, Golden White,\\nBuff, Black, Columbian White Wonders Javas\\nBlack, White, Mottled; American Dominique and Jer-\\nsey Blues. We will also place here Crevecoeurs, Dor-\\nkings Colored, Silver-Gray, White La Fleche.\\nIn the Asiatic class, which is composed of the heav-\\nier varieties, we have, Brahmas Light, Dark, Buff", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "10 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nCochins Buff, Partridge, AVhite, Black; Langshans\\nWhite, Black, Blue.\\nThe Polish ckiss is composed of light-weight birds,\\nand is as follows Polish Bearded Golden, Bearded\\nSilver, Bearded White, Buff Laced, Golden, Silver,\\nWhite, White-crested Black. We should have added\\nWhite-faced Black Spanish to the lighter weights also.\\nThere are a few miscellaneous breeds, such as Rus-\\nsians, Sumatra, Silky, Sultan, Frizzles, Rumpless.\\nIn Games we have Black-breasted Red, Brown Red,\\nGolden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, Red Pyle, White,\\nBlack, Birchen Game Bantams Black-breasted Red,\\nBrown Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, Red\\nPyle, White, Black, Birchen. We will add, also, In-\\ndian Game and Black-breasted Red Malay.\\nWe ought to be able to pick out something desirable\\nfrom this list. In ducks we do not have such a varie-\\nty. Ducks Pekin, Aylesbury, Black East Indian,\\nGray Call, White Call, Cayuga, Colored Muscovy,\\nWhite Muscovy, Crested White, Rouen.\\nIn turkeys we have Bronze, Narragansett, Black,\\nBuff, Slate, White. And in geese African, Brown,\\nChina, Egyptian, Embden, Toulouse, White China, Wild.\\nIt seems as though we had a sufficiency in fowls, and\\nyet new breeds are constantly springing up, or, rather,\\ndifferent varieties. It is well to stick to a breed we\\nhave tried and found good, rather than branch off on\\nsomething new, only to find that they are no better or\\nnot so good.\\nThe most popular varieties to-day are the Leghorns,\\nPlymouth Rocks, Brahmas and Cochins, Langshans,\\nMinorcas, Wyandottes, Indian Games and Hamburgs.\\nWe can find here just what w^e want, providing we\\nknow what we want.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II.\\nTHE BREEDING STOCK SETTING THE HEN THE CHICK,\\nAND HOW TO RAISE IT NATURE S METHOD).\\nAs we said before, the breeding stock is the founda-\\ntion to the whole business, therefore it will be well to\\nconsider this question first.\\niiiff Stocl commence the poultry business by\\nbuying a large number of hens and thereby\\nthink to gain a year or two at a single bound. Take\\nthings easy and commence with a few say 15 and\\nlearn how to make these lay winter and summer first.\\nThe rest will follow in its natural course. Start with\\nthoroughbreds. If you can not afford to buy a dozen\\nor two, buy a pair or trio. Commence right and buy\\nthe best blood procurable and then you will not have\\nto, in a few 3^ears, go back and commence all over again.\\nRemember that the best is none too good. Probably\\nsome would prefer to buy eggs in the spring and start\\nby raising their own stock. That is a good way, but\\nwe prefer to buy stock and raise the eggs for hatching.\\nIn buying stock be very careful about getting more\\nthan you pay for disease. Always shut up the new\\nbirds for several days so as to make sure they are per-\\nfectly healthy. We will here take up the natural\\nmethod of raising chickens, presuming that they are\\nintended for stock, while market poultry, generally,\\nwill be taken up under the head of broilers or the arti-\\n[icial method.\\nBefore we set our hens we should provide a set-\\n(11)", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "12 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nting-room a place set apart for this purpose exclu-\\nsively. If many hens are to be set at one\\nHatching-, time, make a row of nests all around the\\nhouse, using the ground floor for the bottom\\nof the nests. If this does not afford\\nsufficient room, build another row on\\ntop of these. Each nest should be\\nfourteen by sixteen inches, and each\\nshould have some kind of a slat door, so as to always be\\nready to lock the hen in should it be found advisable.\\nShape up the dirt in bottom of nest, so that the center\\nwill be about two inches lower than the sides, but let\\nthe slant be gradual. Cover the dirt with an inch of\\nhay, straw, or anything handy; procure a number of\\negg gourds or china eggs capture the intended setter\\nafter dark, carefully remove her to the setting-room and\\nlock her in one of the nests, previously having placed\\ntherein a few of the gourds. If she sits quietly for a\\ncouple of days, then good eggs may be substituted for\\nthe gourds. A great many people make the costly mis-\\ntake of giving too many eggs to a hen especially is\\nthis true during cold weather. During warm weather\\na hen can take care of more eggs, for it w411 not make\\nmuch difference if an egg or two gets partly uncovered\\nfor a short time. During cold weather these partly un-\\ncovered eggs may get chilled, and then when the hen\\nshifts them these eggs may get covered and other pre-\\nviously covered ones may get left out; thus nearly all\\nthe eggs will be spoiled. In general, thirteen fair\\nsized eggs are plenty for an ordinary sized hen it takes\\na large hen to properly cover fifteen eggs. Always test\\nthe eggs on the seventh {or fifth) day of incubation.\\nIf several hens have been set at once, then all the fer-\\ntile eggs can be placed under one or more hens, and", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 13\\nthe balance of the hens, without eggs, can be reset, thus\\nsaving time and hens. Never use stale eggs for nest-\\neggs; they may get broken and soil the hen and nest.\\nThere are various lice preventives to put in the\\nnests, but we have learned to rely on the best insect\\npowder we can find. After the hen settles down to\\nbusiness, give her a good dusting also the nest\\ntaking her by the legs, head down, and sprinkle the\\npowder well into the feathers, using the first two fingers\\nand thumb to grasp the powder with. About two days\\nbefore the chicks are due to hatch, repeat the dusting.\\nIt is within the lines of fact to state that two-thirds of\\nthe mortality among small chickens is due directly to\\nthe ravages of lice, and we, therefore, can not be too\\nparticular on this point. It is better to err on the side of\\ntoo much insect powder rather than not enough. Have\\nproper coops prepared previous to the hatching of the\\nchicks. A good coop is made in the shape of an in-\\nverted V. It should be about 2 ft. 6 in. wide at bot-\\nA V-SHAPED COOP. COOP WITH PROTECTED RUN.\\ntorn and 3 ft. long or deep, with a slat front. Have\\nthe slat or opening in one end, and never on the side,\\nfor in case of rain storms the hen can not keep the\\nchickens dry, unless old carpet or bagging is thrown\\nover this wide opening. Small dry goods boxes cov-\\nered with tarred roofing also make a good coop. Early\\nin the season, during chilly and damp weather, have a", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "14 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nmovable board bottom for the coop. This will keep\\nthe chicks from the damp ground. Be careful to cleaiy\\nthis bottom off and sand it every day or it will pD(5ve\\nworse than no bottom. As warm weather approaches\\nthe bottoms should be removed, and the coops are\\ncleaned by simply moving them each day to fresh\\nground.\\nIt is very convenient to have these little lath runs\\nfor our chicken coops. Early in the season or on damp,\\nrainy days the boards or muslin can be so laid on the\\nframes as to give protection from the winds or rain and\\nconfine the chicks as well. They should be made tight\\nenough to prevent chicks from getting out. As they\\ngrow then they can be let out by taking off an end lath.\\nDuring the hot days of late spring they are useful to\\nprotect the chicks from the too hot rays of the sun. If\\npreferred, wire netting (one inch mesh) can be tacked\\non the frames in place of the lath.\\nAllow the chickens to remain undisturbed in the nest\\nfor twenty-four hours after hatching, then transfer the\\nhen and chicks to the coop, placing not more\\nThe Chick, than twelve or fifteen (according to the sea-\\nson) with a hen. If two or more hens were\\nset at one time, then the chicks can be given to one or\\nmore mothers and the remaining hens reset. The first\\nfeed should be rolled oatmeal or stale wheat bread\\nmoistened in milk. All surplus milk should be\\nsqueezed out of bread before feeding. Follow this for\\nthree days, when the feed may be scalded. This feed\\nshould contain all the elements of growth and devel-\\nopment, and the three most easily procured elements\\nmay be ground corn, wheat middlings and ground oats\\n(sifted so as to remove the hull), equal parts, with a\\nhandful of sweet ground bone. Scald this mixture", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 15\\nwith hot water or milk and let stand covered an hour\\nbefore feeding so as to let the steam cook it as much as\\npossible. Do not use any more hot water than is sufficient\\nto make the mess crumble. Never feed sour or sloppy\\nfood. Buy the best feed you can, for it will prove the\\ncheapest in the end. Anything and everything is not\\nsuitable for poultry of any age. They require sound,\\nsweet food and must have it to do well. Feed the\\nchicks four times a day. Give rolled oatmeal or\\nbread crumbs in the morning and the scalded mess\\nthereafter. A good plan is to have fixed hours for\\nfeeding and always feed just at that time. The first feed\\nshould be given at 6 o clock a. m. (5 o clock if possi-\\nble), the second at 10 o clock, the third at 2 p. m., and\\nthe fourth at 6 o clock. Every other day give boiled\\npotatoes at 2 o clock. A little finely chopped onion,\\ntop and all, is excellent to give every other day for the\\nfirst month.\\nWhen the chicks have reached five weeks of age then\\nthree meals a day will be sufficient, and the night feed\\nmay be whole wheat. Occasionally mix in the soft\\nfeed a little finely ground charcoal. Grit is also an\\nimportant item, and for small chicks we mix a little in\\nthe soft feed, using stone grit, chick size. The morn-\\ning feed of oatmeal may be discontinued after the\\nfourth week, and the scalded feed substituted. Always\\nfeed on a clean board, which should be washed off\\nevery few days. We use a board about three by ten\\ninches, around the sides of which we nail on pieces of\\nlath, letting them extend above the top side of the\\nboard about half an inch. This prevents the food from\\ngetting on the ground. Feed at one time only what\\nwill be eaten in say ten minutes. If any should be\\nleft over carefully scrape it up and give it to the pigs.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "16 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nGive clean water in earthen saucers twice a day. Clean-\\nliness is a very important item. If there are any holes\\naround where stagnant water stands, fill them up. Af-\\nter the chicks reach eight weeks of age then feed can\\nbe whole wheat most of the time, but of course oats,\\nbuckwheat and barley, fed alternately, is better. Corn\\nshould be fed very sparingly, for it is deficient in bone\\nand muscle development, and we must feed for growth\\nrather than fat. There is great danger, as the pullet\\nreaches maturity, in getting her over-fat. It will\\nsurely retard egg production and proper develop-\\nment. We are presuming that these pullets are raised\\nto supply us with early fall and winter layers. There-\\nfore, just as soon as the weather permits, say June 1st\\nor 15th, we should remove them to a coop and have\\nthis coop way out in the field, as far from the old fowls\\nas possible. Build these coops out of light material\\nand have them about 4x8 feet, on the ground. The\\nfront should be three feet high and the back two feet.\\nSuch a coop will provide roosting room for 50 chicks.\\nThe front can be left open or it can be made with a door\\nhinged at the top. If the nights are cold it can be let\\ndown, and during the day it can be raised and thus\\nafford shade for the chicks. Two or three broad, flat roost-\\npoles (four inches wide) can be placed near the back.\\nNo floor is used, and therefore the coop is cleaned by\\nmoving it to fresh\\nground every day or\\ntwo. If old lumber is\\nused to build the coop,\\nthen it should be cov-\\nered roof, back and\\nsides with heavy\\nroofing paper. Build a field coop.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 17\\nenough houses so as to accommodate all the pul-\\nlets. The cockerels should be placed by themselves\\nand marketed just as soon as possible. If the sexes\\nare not separated neither will make a satisfactory\\ngrowth, and growth is what we are after. When\\nthe pullets are three months old, if they are out on the\\nrange, then the feed can be given more sparingly, for\\nthey should be able to gather at least half their food.\\nThe morning feed can be wheat, oats or barley, but\\nonly give them enough to take off the sharp edge of\\ntheir appetite. This will send them out looking for\\nbugs, seeds, etc., and exercise is the most important\\nconsideration of all. The night feed (do not feed at\\nnoon) should be all they will eat up quickly, and con-\\nsist of one of the cereals given above. Do not attempt\\nto force the comb (undue early laying), for growth\\npractically stops with the first egg. Get a good-sized\\nframe first, and then feed for eggs. Thus by gradual\\nsteps we have come down to the laying period, which\\nought to commence by October or November 15 at\\nleast, and continue right through until the following\\nfall.\\n2", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER III.\\nTHE HEN THE LAYING PERIOD DIFFERENT METHODS\\nFEEDING FOR EGGS.\\nFeeding for eggs is a very particular business and\\ncan only be successfully carried on by experienced\\npoultrymen. Howeyer, the novice can soon\\nPeriod^ overcome the many difficulties by giving\\nthis branch his undivided attention. Every\\npullet is not cut out for a layer. Careful selection is\\nnow in order. It is advisable to save more pullets\\nthan will be required, for some that look promising\\nwhen young will change for the worse when matured,\\nand vice versa. Now, before commencing to feed for\\neggs, carefully select only the likely pullets. No matter\\nwhether thoroughbreds or not, the first consideration\\nis health, then development. The leg is very im-\\nportant. The bone should be strong and thick. A\\ngood, strong frame is never supported by a thin, weak\\nleg. Aim for a medium length leg, according to the\\nbreed.\\nThese are the points to look for if we want good lay-\\ness: Medium length of leg; long, deep, broad-shoul-\\ndered bodies, full breast, and legs set mediumly far\\napart, head rather small but strong, and a bright, active\\nlooking eye. The short, chunky, close-built bird, with\\na mild looking eye, can not be depended upon as a layer.\\nSelect the birds carefully, retaining only those that\\npromise to be suitable. The haphazard wav of select-\\n(18)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 19\\ning laying stock is too expensive, to say the least.\\nThere is no earthly use in keeping over and feeding\\nbirds simply because they are birds of the right gen-\\nder. The feed is the expensive part of stock raising.\\nToo many in one pen, or saving over indifferent layers,\\nwill cut down the profits more than anything else. If\\nwe expect to hatch the eggs then we should be just as\\nparticular about picking out the cockerels, for the cock-\\nerel or cock is half the flock. Now, then, if the\\nchicks are on the range and have attained a good growth,\\nthen by October 1 stimulating food should be given.\\nOf course a box of sharp grit has been constantly ac-\\ncessible to the chicks. Meat, either cut green bone or\\ncured ground meat and bone, such as is sold on the\\nmarket for the purpose, must be added to the early\\nmorning feed, and this meat should be scalded and\\nthereby partly cooked. The advantage thus gained is,\\nwe can give more of a variety than in any other way,\\nand variety is essential. The variety suitable for poul-\\ntry is composed of the following: Cut clover hay (any\\nkind of clover) all vegetables cut or cooked includ-\\ning their green tops, wheat, oats, corn, buckwheat, bar-\\nley, linseed meal and meat. Almost anything is suita-\\nble for poultry, providing it is sweet. Damaged or even\\npartly damaged grain is very expensive in the end, for\\nit will probably relieve you of the surplus stock by\\ndeath. Feed good, sweet, wholesome food at all times.\\nNow we should commence to feed pullets the same as\\nwe expect to during the following winter and spring,\\nonly do not feed so large a quantity while they are on\\nthe range and the picking is good; neither will we have\\nto feed cut hay or green food. If the pullets are yarded\\nthen we will have to feed green food. The stock should\\nbe in medium flesh, but if too fat they will be very slow", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "20\\nPRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nabout laying. We will illustrate: In the fall of 1894\\nwe put up a pen of white Wyandotte pullets that had\\nbeen running out around the feed room, and conse-\\nquently they had received more food than they ought\\nto have received. They were very fat. Alongside of\\nthis pen was another pen that had been taken from the\\nfield, and these were only in fair condition. The result\\nwas that this second pen commenced to lay some two\\nmonths earlier than the first pen. In other words they\\ncommenced to lay about October 10, while the fat pen\\ndid not commence before December, age and develop-\\nment being about the same.\\nBefore we enlarge on the egg food we will\\nHousing say a few words on housing the pullets. These\\npullets have had unlimited range since they\\nwere hatched, for that is absolutely essential for their\\nperfect development. Now, by October 1, as stated\\nabove, these should be fed for egg production, and as\\nthey near the laying period they should be put in win-\\nter quarters. There are several plans of housing. The\\nn\\nw\\nA Model Poultry House for Fifty Fowls Colony Plan.\\ncolony plan is the cheapest, but no roosters can be\\nused unless the houses are far apart. It is best to put\\nabout one hundred hens or pullets to the acre, placing\\nthem in four houses of twenty-five hens each. No\\nfences are required. Never place more than fifty in", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n21\\nwe\\nONE OF OUR DOUBLE HOUSES.\\none flock. Let small raisers or farmers keep but fifty\\nfowls for layers, or if more are kept, then build more\\nhouses and place them as far apart as possible. Eggs\\nwill usually hatch better and stronger chicks will result\\nif the fowls have free range and are properly kept, but\\nwe have had the best results, in egg yield, from yarded\\nfowls. In yarding fowls two styles of buildings are\\nused, viz., the long (continuous) house and individual\\nhouses. We prefer the individual or double houses,\\nfor they can be placed anywhere and the yards made to\\nsuit the lay of the land. For the double houses\\nwould, and do,\\nmake them ISiax\\n18 feet, thus each\\nflock has a pen 9x\\n13. 2 feet, and each\\nyard should be\\nabout 35x85 feet.\\nPlace not m ore\\nthan fifteen hens\\nand a cock in each,\\nor thirty-two in the\\nwhole house. This\\nis a good method,\\nbut we very much\\nprefer the individ-\\nual house with scratching shed. Build the house the\\nsame size as above, and make the roosting room 13 ^x7\\nfeet, and the balance will form the open front scratch-\\ning shed. If desired, the front can be closed in bad\\nweather by having hinged doors. These doors can be\\nsimply a frame with muslin tacked on and same hinged\\nat the top so as to be out of the way when opened.\\nThey should swing in and hook against the roof raf-\\nBox.\\nTtoajf oml\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0hJ\\nDo.\\nBaK\\n/6Fr\\n/6ff. 9/ ;/v^\\nR. R.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Roost poles. P. P.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Dropping board.\\nD. D. D. D.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Doors. W. W.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Windows.\\nC. Water fountain. B. Grit and charcoal boxes", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "22\\nPRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nters. The yard should be 70x85 feet, and twenty-five\\nto thirty ]iens kept in each.\\nLONG HOUSE, OPEN-FRONT SCRATCHING SHED PLAN.\\nThe above cut illustrates the much desired (in the\\nlong house) open-front scratching shed plan. A walk\\ncan extend along the back if desired. The open- shed\\nshould be six feet wide and the roosting-room four feet\\nwide for a flock of fifteen in each ten feet. The house\\nshould be ten feet deep w^ithout the walk or thirteen\\nfeet with the w^alk. Of course, the house can be made\\nany length or depth desired. The front should be at\\nleast seven feet high, so that the sun can shine on the\\nentire floor of the scratching shed. Curtains of mus-\\nlin tacked on frames and hooked back during nice\\nw^eather area great convenience; also wire netting should\\nbe stretched across the front so the fowls can be kept\\nin during bad weather.\\nECONOMICAL POULTRY HOUSE.\\nPOULTRY HOUSE WITH OPEX-FRONT SCRATCHING SHED UNDERNEATH.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 23\\nThis plan is cheaper than where the open scratch-\\ning shed is built alongside. It is not so good but\\nvastly better than none. Fifteen or twenty fowls\\ncan be housed comfortably, and the nests can be\\narranged underneath if convenient, and also a wire\\nnetting can be run across the opening if it is desirable\\nto confine the fowls. The birds will soon learn to go\\nup and down the stairs.\\nThese houses are excellent to use in the colony plan.\\nWhen the fowls have unlimited range, twenty to twenty-\\nfive fowls can be placed in each house of this size.\\nBefore we speak of exercise, etc., we will go back to\\nthe feed for the pullets or hens if we keep any of the\\nlatter over. People often get terms mixed.\\nFeed. and thus cause trouble. Chickens, pullets\\nand cockerels are fowls that have not passed\\nthe one year mark after one year of age they are hens\\nor cocks. We will give the feed for yarded fowls, but\\nif the fowls are not yet yarded, then the clover or green\\nfood can be left out. The first feed should be given at\\n6 o clock, or as early as the fowls can see to eat it. A\\ngood many scald this mess, or mash, as it is called,\\nand feed it warm, but this is not necessary. Mix it\\nup the day before, if convenient. This mash should\\nbe composed as follows: Four quarts (solid measure)\\ncut clover hay, or hay chaff two quarts wheat bran,\\ntwo quarts ground oats, one quart ground corn and one\\nto one and one-half quarts ground dried meat (freshly\\ncut green bone is better than anything else in this line,\\nbut it should be fed clear and at noon at the rate of\\none pound to fifteen hens). This amount will feed\\nsixty-five or seventy-five fowls. The quantity to feed\\nwill have to be decided by each person, and give the\\namount that experience teaches. The size and activity", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "24 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nis a factor also whether the fowls are yarded or are\\nrunning at liberty. For yarded fowls we usually give\\nwdiat they will eat up clean in, say, ten minutes.\\nTwice a week substitute linseed or cottonseed meal for\\ncorn meal, and, in fact, vary the feed as much as pos-\\nsible, using boiled mashed potatoes or any kind of\\nroots for the foundation feed two or three mornings in\\neach week. We believe in a noon feed. Give a pint\\nof small seed wheat, buckwheat, sorghum seed or\\nkafhr corn in the litter of scratching shed to about\\nsixteen hens. At night feed whole wheat, oats, buck-\\nwheat, barley or corn alternately. Throw this feed\\nalso among the litter. Feed it an hour before sun-\\ndown so that the hens will have time to work it all out.\\nGive this feed more liberally so the fowl will go to\\nroost with a full crop and yet have none left over. By\\nfeeling of the crop, at night, we can tell whether we\\nhave fed enough or too much. We usually find that\\nfifteen good handfuUs of grain will be sufficient for\\nfifteen fowls at night feed. The object should not be\\nto fill up the crop in the morning and then keep it full,\\nbut to gradually fill it up. In this way the hen will\\nscratch and exercise more. The kind or variety of the\\nfeed is very important, and yet not more so than the\\nmanner in which it is given. Always keep the hens\\nbusy, thereby insuring health and preventing feather\\npulling and egg eating. The fioor of the house or shed\\nis very important. It should be filled in each fall with\\nsix inches of dry, fine sand or dirt, and be covered\\nwith six or eight inches of straw, leaves, or any kind\\nof litter so that the hens will have to work hard in\\norder to dig out the grain. Green food of some kind\\nshould be provided twice a week, although the clover\\nhay is in itself a green food. In starting the pullets", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 25\\nwe add, to the soft mash, a little condition powder.\\nWe do not believe in stimulants to any great extent,\\nbut a little at the start will help to put the fowl in\\ngood condition, purify the blood, etc., thus gradually\\nstimulating the egg producing parts or ovaries. Occa-\\nsionally give a couple of feeds in which a little condi-\\ntion powder has been mixed all during the laying\\nperiod. If we wish to hold any hens over the molt we\\ncan, as they reach this period, hasten it a little by\\nfeeding stimulants, such as linseed meal or cottonseed\\nmeal at the rate of one quart to seven quarts of mixed\\nground food, and we can also profitably use condition\\npowders during this trying period.\\nIt will not pay us to hold over the molt indifferent\\nlayers. In fact, if the production of eggs is the all-\\nimportant, then we should sell the old hens just be-\\nfore they molt or stop laying. If, however, we wish\\nto hold any over, then we should pick out the best layers\\nonly for this purpose. Molting is the most trying\\nperiod in the life of a fowl, and many die from the\\nstrain caused by the production of a new crop of feath-\\ners. As stated above, they should have special care.\\nThe molt proper lasts about one hundred days, but it\\ncan be shortened or lengthened according to the food\\nand care. If lice are found on the body sprinkle with\\ninsect powder. The lice not only sap the vitality, but\\noften injure the young feathers, which is a considera-\\ntion if the bird is a show specimen. Do not feed much\\ncorn during this period, for it is lacking in nitrogen\\nand mineral matter. If the birds are yarded, see that\\nthey have a good supply of green food. Use the con-\\ndition powder during the entire period. Green cut\\nbone should be given in place of the linseed or cotton-\\nseed meal three days during a week; also, add tincture", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "26 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nof iron in the drinking water twice a week. Hens\\nthat molt late in the fall will not lay during the fore\\npart of the winter, so it is advisable to sell these late\\nmolters unless they are valuable breeders. Pullets do\\nnot molt, except occasional feathers, the first fall, un-\\nless they have been hatched before March. We would\\nnot advise holding over hens that show no sign of\\nmolting before November 1. Late molters require\\ncareful housing on cold or damp days.\\nLet us give a few tables for feeding for eggs. We\\nwill base our calculations on sixty fowls. The amount\\nmay prove too little or too much, according\\nThe Ration, to the size and activity of the birds. We\\nare presuming that the fowls are yarded,\\nand that they are in four flocks, although this last\\ndoes not affect the feeding. We will give four tables,,\\nand they should be given on alternate mornings:\\nNo. 1. Shorts or middlings 5 quarts.\\nGround oats 2\\nCorn meal 2\\nPrepared meat 1\\nNo. 2.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Shorts 4\\nGround oats 2\\nCorn meal 2\\nGround buckwheat 1\\nPrepared meat 1\\nNo. 3. Boiled vegetables 4\\nShorts 2\\nGround oats 2\\nLinseed meal 1\\nPrepared meat 1\\nNo. 4.-- Cut clover hay 5\\nGround oats 2\\nGround buckwheat 1\\nShorts 1\\nPrepared meat 1\\nGive No. 4 three mornings in the week. No. 3 two,\\nand Nos. 2 and 1 one morning each. As we stated be-", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 27\\nfore, thoroughly scald this mixture (after having first\\nmixed the ingredients while dry) and use only enough\\nwater to moisten it. Let it stand tightly covered for\\none hour after mixing, so as to cook it. Feed it either\\nwarm or cold, and be sure that it is not too soft or\\nsloppy. It should be just wet enough to be crumbling\\nwhen fed. This should be fed in a trough. Have\\nthis trough long enough so that all the fowls can get\\nto it at once and not crowd. A good one is made as\\nfollows: For fifteen fowls take a piece of board eight\\ninches wide by five feet long. Nail an upright piece\\nto each end, as shown in cut. Nail a lath on either\\nside of bottom and let it project up\\nthree-fourths of an inch, so as to\\nkeep the food from falling off. The\\ncross-bar on top should be two or two and a half inches\\nwide. This is the handiest trough we know of. It\\ncan be easily moved around, and after feeding, can be\\nhung up out of the way. It does not need any cleats\\non the bottom to keep it out of the litter, for it is only\\nin use a few minutes each day, and it is wide enough\\nso that if set level it will not be readily knocked over.\\nFresh water should be given twice a day, and in such\\na manner so that the fowls can not readily soil it. We\\nuse gallon paint cans. One can answer for two flocks\\n(in our double houses). It is set in the partition\\nfence, half projecting on each side, and high enough\\nfrom the ground so that very little, if any, litter can be\\nscratched in it. The platform that the can rests on is about\\na foot up from the floor, and this projects out in each pen\\nfar enough for the fowls to stand on while drinking.\\nAbout fifteen minutes after feeding the morning mash,\\nstart around to water, at the same time hanging up the\\nfeed troughs, and if any food is left, carefully gather it", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "28 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nup, and if it will keep sweet, save it for next morning.\\nThe proper way to do is to feed only what they w^ill eat\\nup clean in say ten minutes or less. After watering,\\nthe droppings should be removed; at the same time\\nlook for signs of lice, and if any are found, give the\\nthings a painting with kerosene. At noon or before,\\nsay 11 o clock, give about six good handfuls of small\\ngrain in the litter, taking time to kick it well under.\\nAt night, an hour before sundown, give a good handful\\nof grain, as given above, for each fowl.\\nOur object, of course, is eggs, not fat fowls. We\\nshould aim to keep our birds in fair condition; avoid\\nthe two extremes too poor and over-fat. Do\\nSome Re- jj^^^ ^p g^\\\\l i^in(3s or conditions of hens;\\nmarks.\\nkeep each variety separate. Old hens take\\non fat more readily than pullets, and therefore should\\nbe kept separate. Feed enough, but let there be plenty\\nof bulk. Concentrated food is too rich for laying hens.\\nNever place Leghorns and Brahmas in the same pen.\\nWhether thorough -breds or common fowls are used,\\nthe rule should be the same, i. e., place fowls of the\\nsame weight and build in their respective pens, and if\\nonly one variety is raised, then each fall save over only\\nthe hens that come nearest to the ideal. With some\\npeople the custom prevails to sell all the largest\\nbirds because they bring more on the market. This is\\nvery doubtful economy. The early, quick-maturing\\npullets are the ones to save for breeders, for like surely\\nbegets like. If the runts and inferior or late hatched\\nbirds are retained for breeders, then it will only be a\\nquestion of a year or tw^o when the poultry yard will\\ncease to pay expenses. The pullets will not lay, nor\\nthe chicks thrive. The best is none too good. When\\nthe {owls are running at liberty, then the summer food", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 29\\nshould be partly withheld. Give a light breakfast of\\nthe mash, as given above, and rely almost wholly on\\nwheat for the night feed, giving only what the hens\\nseem to eat with a relish.\\nDuring cold weather give as large a variety as possi-\\nble, and if very cold, feed whole or cracked corn at\\nnight. Give warm water, if weather is cold, twice a\\nday. Do not let the fowls out in the yards if very cold\\nor stormy, but keep them busy indoors scratching in\\nthe litter. Remember that warmth and exercise is, if\\nanything, more essential for the production of winter\\neggs than the quality of the food. Try to preserve an\\neven temperature day and night. On mild days open\\nthe door and windows, for it must be remembei ed that\\nthe fowl will have to sleep in the same clothes it works\\nin, and if we keep them too close during the day, then\\nthey will feel the cold of night more and colds will fol-\\nlow. Eggs are composed largely of nitrogenous elements,\\nand the variety given above is largely-nitrogenous.\\nCarbonaceous foods produce flesh and heat, and while\\na certain proportion is necessary to sustain the fowl,\\nyet too much is a great hindrance to egg production.\\nCorn is largely carbonaceous and should be fed with\\ncare. It is far safer to feed wheat the year round than\\nit is corn, it being a more complete food. The smaller\\nand more active varieties can carry a corn ration better\\nthan the large and less active ones, and in feeding we\\nwill have to decide many things for ourselves. The\\nsize of the fowl and whether yarded or not are factors\\nof importance. Fowls running at large can stand more\\ncorn than those yarded, because more exercise is taken\\nand they can gather a large variety for themselves and\\nthus balance the ration. For experiment, we have\\nkept yarded fowls for a year, winter and summer, with-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "30 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nout a particle of corn, and had them to give us an ex-\\ncellent egg yield, even in the coldest weather. While\\na small proportion of corn is beneficial, yet it can not\\nbe too strongly condemned as a summer feed for yarded\\nfowls. With yarded fowls the watchword should be:\\nPlenty of sun during cold weather and plenty of shade\\nfor warm weather.\\nTHE EGGS.\\nWhile a proper food for egg production will bring\\nthe eggs, yet with yarded fowls it is not so easy to get\\neggs with nice yellow yolks. These pale yellow 3^olks\\ndo not denote weakness or staleness, but a lack of color-\\ning matter in the food. Lack of green food and\\ncoloring matter affects the egg the same as lack of\\ngrass affects the color of butter. True it is that yel-\\nlow corn will give us the desired color, but if we feed\\nit largely to yarded fowls, then we will not get the eggs.\\nCotton-seed meal gives us a good yellow yolk, but that\\nis also fattening, and should be fed with care. The\\nonly thing to do is to feed plenty of green food and a\\nlittle yellow corn and cotton-seed meal if we must have\\nyellow-yolked eggs. The customer will seldom find\\nfault on this account, providing he is sure the eggs are\\nstrictly fresh, but if he does then try to remedy the de-\\nfect.\\nIt is stated that a good hen will produce five or six\\ntimes her weight of eggs in a year. The average weight\\nof an egg is two ounces, and about 12 per cent, of it is\\nshell.\\nUnder chemical analysis we find these elements:", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 81\\nWhite. Yolk.\\nWater 85.4 50.6\\nNitrogenous substances 12.9 16.1\\nFat 3 31.4\\nOther non-nitrogenous matter 8 .5\\nAsh 6 1.4\\n100. 100.\\nThe yolk contains less water than the white, and\\nnearly all of the fat and the larger proportion of ash\\n(mineral matter). The ash, w^iich consists of potash,\\nsoda, etc., is best seen in the following table:\\nWhite. Yolk.\\nPotash 31.4 9.3\\nSoda 31.6 5.9\\nLime 2.8 13.0\\nMagnesia 2.8 2.1\\nOxide of iron 6 1.7\\nPhosphoric acid 4.4 65.5\\nSulphuric acid 2.1\\nSilicia 1.1 .9\\nChlorine 28.8 1.6\\nThe white is therefore rich in alkalies, potash and\\nsoda, a part of the latter being present as common salt.\\nThe yoke is extremely rich in phosphoric acid and car-\\nries a large amount of lime in fact it is the part that\\ncontributes largely to the formation of bone.\\nChemists have figured out the amount of fertility\\ntaken away from the soil in different crops. Thus,\\n1,000 pounds, or 6QQ dozen of hen s eggs, shells in-\\ncluded, contain about the following quantities:\\nPounds.\\nNitrogen 20.\\nPotash 1.75\\nLime 60.82\\nPhosphoric acid 4.22", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "82 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nNow we see that 8,000 eggs, worth at least $160,\\ntakes only about $3.56 worth of fertility from the farm.\\nLet us contrast this with other crops sold off the farm,\\n$160 worth of each:\\nEggs $3 56\\nWheat 42 28\\nMilk 14 08\\nCheese 11 04\\nLive Cattle 18 88\\nTimothy Hay 95 84\\nIf we sell $160 worth of wheat, $42.28 worth of fer-\\ntility goes off the farm. If we feed this to the hens\\nand sell the same amount of eggs, only $3.56 worth of\\nfertility goes. When we sell eggs, we sell largely\\nwater, which is given in the first table.\\nIt is also stated that a good cow may produce in a\\nyear six times her weight in milk, with a calf in addi-\\ntion. If we take the cow as weighing 1,000 pounds,\\nwe have in the salable product about 800 pounds of\\ndry matter, containing 36.8 pounds of nitrogen. Hens\\nof good laying breeds weighing 1,000 pounds will yield\\nin the same time 6,000 pounds of eggs, the contents of\\nwhich will include 1,404 pounds of dry matter, con-\\ntaining 120 pounds of nitrogen. It has often been\\npointed out that since cows milk is much richer in\\nnitrogen than the carcass of an animal, so the food\\nsupplied to cows in full milk should be of a specially\\nnitrogenous character. The argument has still greater\\nweight in the case of the hen, as we have just seen\\nthat her produce, in the same time, from the same body\\nweight, contains three and one-quarter times as much\\nnitrogen as that of the cow. The albuminoid ratio of\\neggs is, indeed, as high as 1:1.82. Under natural con-\\nditions, a fowl s diet is in the summer time of a decided", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 33\\nnitrogenous character, the food consisting largely of\\n(grass) insects, worms, etc. The advantage of giving hens\\nagood ^run is well-known; this is partly due to the ac-\\ntive exercise obtained, which is essential for the contin-\\nuance of the egg-laying condition, but is also in part\\nowing to the supply of insect food which the hens thus\\nobtain.\\nIt will be seen in the above that the old-fashioned\\nway of feeding hens on grain alone must be discontin-\\nued, if we wish to make our poultry pay, and meat and\\nbone must be supplied, especially in winter. Wheat\\nand corn are too carbonaceous, and while a little is ex-\\ncellent, yet we will have to balance the ratio with more\\nnitrogenous foods.\\nEFFECTS OF YARDING FOWLS.\\nThe very nature of fowls and the fact that small\\nflocks pay the best, makes it necessary for the poultry-\\nman who keeps a large number to yard them.\\nYarded fowls, if properly handled, will lay more eggs\\nduring an entire year than those running at large.\\nThis is so because, in the former case, the poultryman\\ncan determine to a nicety just how much to feed and\\nthe variety to give. It is impossible to know how\\nmuch a fowl will gather during the day when running\\nat large, and therefore the poultryman is liable to either\\noverfeed or underfeed.\\nMost people who are not expert in feeding yarded\\nfowls, overfeed and provide too little exercise.\\nWhile yarded fowls will give the best result in egg\\nyield, they will also give the poorest result when the\\neggs are used for hatching.\\n3", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "34 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nFew people realize the importance of thoroughly\\nhealthy, vigorous stock when used as breeders. The\\neggs are usually blamed, or the hen did not set good,\\nwhen the root of the matter could be traced to the\\nbreeders. Fowls are under a constant strain while lay-\\ning, and in order to retain perfect vitality they must\\nroam the fields, gathering here and there a mite of\\nnature s food and gaining needed exercise and fresh\\nair. True, if they are overfed they will not take proper\\nexercise, and the result is a lot of lazy fowls who hang\\naround fence corners and whose eggs will give poor re-\\nsults when used for hatching purposes.\\nWhere more than one breed is kept on a place (the\\nmajority of fanciers keep several breeds), it becomes\\nnecessary to yard them. From ten to twenty fowls are\\nkept in each yard. Very often these yards are small\\nand bare, thus making fertile, strong-germed eggs al-\\nmost impossible neither is the condition improved to\\nany great extent when the yards are of a fair size and\\nhave grass or other green stuff growing in them. True,\\nthis last is better than the former, but it is not unlim-\\nited range. The colony plan can not be followed in\\nthese cases. The only plan that will work fairly satis-\\nfactorily is to give partial free range by letting one pen\\nrun out in, say, the forenoon and another pen in the\\nafternoon. The next day keep these pens up while\\ntwo other pens have an outing. If more than four\\npens are kept, then the houses should be built far apart,\\nin blocks of four, or if the land is so divided that two\\npens can be let out in different parts at one time, so\\nmuch the better. To better illustrate the subject we\\nwill give a plan that, with a few modifications, can\\nbe put to practical use on many farms. Here we have\\nthe long house containing eight pens and eight yards.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n35\\nline:\\n^i^^yx:\\n\\\\X5 C\\\\.^V\\nFZNCE G\\nJ L\\n\\\\\u00c2\u00abao\\nLINE\\nG FENCE\\nThe four line fences can run straight out from the house\\neast, west, north and south, and by making them some\\ntwo hundred yards\\nlong the fowls will\\nseldom, if ever, go\\nround them and thus\\nget mixed. These\\nline fences can have\\nconvenient gates, so\\nthat they will cause\\nvery little incon-\\nvenience, and the\\nground can be tilled\\nright up to the small\\nyards. If they are in grass the fowls will do it no\\nharm and much good. If corn is to be planted, then\\nthe fowls can be kept out after the ground has been\\nplowed until the corn gets knee high, when they can\\nbe turned in again to advantage to the corn crop.\\nPens Nos. 5, 7, 10, 12 can run alternately in fields\\nNos. 1 and 2, while pens Nos. 6, 8, 9, 11 can run out\\nin fields Nos. 3 and 4. Thus the entire eight pens can\\nhave unlimited range a part of each day. We have\\ntried this plan and it works very nicely. It is surpris-\\ning how closely a flock, say fifteen birds, will stay to\\ntheir house, and the only way to keep them out of their\\nsmall yards and houses is to feed very little for their\\nmorning feed, thus forcing them to seek their food in\\nthe fields. Remember, it is the active bird that lays\\nthe strong-germed eggs, and activity is fostered by a\\ncraving for food when it can not be found in a feed box.\\nThe natural division of many farms, on account of\\nbuildings, yard fences, etc., makes it easy to give an\\noutiug to this or that flock if we are wise enough to", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "86 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nplace our roosts in such positions as to take advantage\\nof them.\\nA great many object to devoting large space for poul-\\ntry runs or yards, but the progressive poultry man will\\ngrow fruit above and fowls below. An apple\\nFruit and orchard, especially an old one, is an excel-\\nlent place for poultr3^ Build the yard so as\\nto give one or Wo large trees to each yard. The trees\\nwill do far better under this treatment than any other,\\nbut wdien the apples commence to fall they should be\\ngathered up, for too many apples will decrease the\\nnumber of eggs. Fruit trees of all kinds do well in\\nthe poultry yard, and beside being useful for shade,\\nwill return a good profit from their fruit. In fact,\\nfruit farming and poultry travel hand in hand, and\\nwill greatly add to the yearly income. There is noth-\\ning that will do better in the poultry yard than small\\nfruit, such as blackberries and raspberries. The young\\nplants will require a little protection until they get a\\ngood start, but after that they require no care, for the\\nhen supplies the fertilizer and does all the tending.\\nAs the berries enlarge they should be protected with\\nwire netting, or the fowls can be turned out until the\\ncrop is gathered. Those who have tried this method\\nreport that the fruit is abundant, large and fine fla-\\nvored. Grapevines should be trained along the fences,\\nprojecting a part of the way in and over the yard, thus\\nnot only giving a fine crop up out of the way of the\\nfowls, but providing excellent shade as well. If natu-\\nral shade is wanting, than erect a trellis. Drive two\\nrows of posts in the ground, running them east and\\nwest; along the top of each row run a board and throw\\non cross pieces. Cover with straw, cornstalks or any-\\nthing that will cast a shadow, Strong rouslia or sail", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 37\\ncloth is also good. In short, provide shade or sfeU the\\nfowls. An out-door scratching place can be erected\\nunder this shade. Have the sides about eighteen\\ninches or two feet high, and throw theredn any kind of\\nlitter to the depth of eight inches. A box 14x18 feet\\nis about right for fifteen to twenty fowls.\\nIt will be noticed that certain breeds lay larger eggs\\nthan others, and different members of the same family\\nSize and different sized eggs. The color also\\nColor of varies. The smaller, or Mediterranean class,\\nEg g s- laying a white-shelled egg, while the medium\\nand heavier varieties lay a dark-shelled egg. Some\\nmarkets Boston, for instance pay a better price for\\ndark colored eggs, while others, like New York, pre-\\nfer a white egg. The brown-egg varieties lay eggs of\\nvarious colored brown; some will be very dark, while\\nothers will be nearly white. This can be partly over-\\ncome by setting eggs that are a uniform brown color.\\nProduce just what your market will pay the most for.\\nThe Minorcas and Black Spanish, among the white-\\negg breeds, lay the largest eggs, while the Brahmas\\nhead the list among the dark-colored-egg breeds.\\nIt is possible to build up a large-egg strain, but it\\nwill require some years to do it. Set only large, well-\\nshaped eggs of the desired color, repeating each year\\nthereafter.\\nThe cock is half the flock, and he should be of the\\nsame strain as the hens, or else your work will be to no\\npurpose. In order not to in-breed too closely, have\\ntwo pens and keep the chickens separate by marking\\nthose from each yard when hatched by punching a\\nhole in the web between the toes with the little punch\\nthat is made for this purpose. One year use the pul-\\nlets from one pea and mate them to the cockerels from", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "38 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nthe other pen and vice versa. A strain of excellent layers\\ncan also be improved by selecting the eggs for setting\\nfrom hens that are known to be prolific layers. This\\nlast will require somewhat of personal watchfulness, of\\ncourse. If we do not wish to bother w^ith two families\\nof the same breed, then we can get a neighbor to go in\\nwith us. Start with birds not related, and then after\\na year or two interchange males, thus keeping up the\\nvigor of the strain. Of course only the very choicest\\nmales will be used as breeders, paying particular atten-\\ntion to health and strong development. A strain may\\nmean much or nothing. The term strain, as used by\\npoultrymen, means keeping in line; breeding together\\nfowls from, originally, the same parents, not neces-\\nsarily brothers and sisters, but family ties must be\\npreserved, and the more remote the connection the bet-\\nter for the future health of the offspring. The novice\\nshould not enter on this line, but introduce new and\\ndistinct blood every year or every second year at least.\\nIn-breeding does not tend to strong development. It\\nmerely fixes desirable points. *^Like begets like.\\nA STUDY ON ARRANGEMENT.\\nIn planning a poultry plant, great care should be\\nexercised as to arrangement of the buildings and\\nhouse, or it will soon be seen that a great mistake has\\nbeen made, and extra w^ork and expense will have to\\nbe incurred in order to remedy the defects. Not only\\nis it necessary to arrange things conveniently on a\\nlarge farm, but it is just as cheap and almost as im-\\nportant to have things arranged handy to the house\\non a small farm, or where only one or two hen roosts\\nare used.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n39\\nWe have prepared two plans that may prove of serv-\\nice to some of our readers. Plan No. 1 shows how we\\narrange our houses and runs. Our hrooder-house is\\n117 feet long, with the feed and boiler- _ ^/f\\nroom on the east end. The roadway,\\nrunning out east from the feed-room,\\nhas a fence along its south side with\\nthe double houses (see cut of same\\nelsewhere) as shown, but the north\\nfence and row of houses are not yet\\nup, but that is how we intend to ar-\\nrange them sometime. Thus we have\\nroadway and gates so we can drive a\\nteam through and thus cart litter,\\nsand, or remove droppings and dirt.\\nWe have a number of houses scattered\\naround in inconvenient places, which\\nwere built before we had an idea of\\nentering largely in the poultry busi-\\nness. We now see what costly mistakes were made.\\nWe expect to run water through these yards, as shown\\nin Plan No. 2. The plan explains itself. The attend-\\nant can load his feed and water in a cart, go down\\none side and back on the other thus he will not have\\nto take a single unnecessary step.\\nPlan No. 2 is taken from a plant situated near En-\\nglishtown, N. J., which we had the pleasure of visiting\\nseveral years ago. The yards occupied a rough, tri-\\nangular piece of ground, as shown. The highway\\ncame down to the end of the field and then branched\\noff on either side. The party only owned the land\\nbetween tlie roads, therefore his arrangement was wisely\\nmade. The wind-mill raised the water up in a large\\ntank, whence it was conducted in pipes (underground)", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "40\\nPRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n/i/\u00c2\u00bb/y A 2\\ndown the line, each house having a small tank sunk\\na little in the ground and pure, running water there-\\nin at all times. It is\\na great saving in la-\\nbor, and cool water\\ncan be had by the\\nfowls at all times.\\nThere are more houses\\nthan those shown in\\nthe plan. The houses\\nare of the open-front,\\nscratching shed plan,\\nand accommodate\\nfrom fifteen to twent}\\nfive fowls each. We\\nwould judge the yards\\nto be about twenty or\\ntwenty-five feet wide,\\nand varying from\\ntwenty to forty yards\\nin length. There are\\nalso other buildings not shown in the plan.\\nIt is no more expense to arrange things conveniently\\nthan otherwise, and yet it costs less, in time, to care\\nfor our fowls properly when we have things as they\\nshould be. Of course, these plans would not be suit-\\nable for every one. The lay of the land and distance\\nfrom the residence will have to be considered. Then,\\nagain, if the colony plan is followed and no fences are\\nused the houses will have to be situated far apart. In\\nthis plan only place 100 hens on an acre of land, using\\nfour houses. Of course, no cocks should be used if\\nfights are to be avoided, and hens are expected to go\\nhome to roost.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IV.\\nARTIFICIAL INCUBATION THE INCUBATOR TESTING THE\\nEGG THE THERMOMETER TURNING EGGS MOISTURE.\\nAfter we have been successful in raising chickens in\\nthe natural way, and can keep our hens in a healthy\\ncondition, and laying during the winter season, then\\nwe may look into the artificial method a little, for. this\\nis the only practical method if we enter the poultry\\nbusiness on a large scale, and expect to devote all our\\ntime to it.\\nArtificial incubation was practiced by the ancient\\nEgyptians, and is so conducted, not only in Egypt, but\\nin China, at the present day. There the climate, or\\ntemperature, is very even and near the degree required\\nto hatch the egg. Therefore, large rooms are devoted\\nto the hatching process, very little artificial heat being\\nrequired. Incubators have been in use in England,\\nFrance and Germany for nearly a century, but in this\\ncountry we have only had them about thirty-five years.\\nThese early machines did not prove successful. The\\nfirst really successful machines were built between 1870\\nand 1880. In fact, Mr. James Rankins, the great duck\\nraiser, built the first successful machine as late as 1880,\\nbut incubators did not come in general use in this\\ncountry until about 1885 to 1890. Without a doubt\\nthere have been more machines built and sold since 1890\\ntlian during all the years previous to that date. While\\nartificial incubation is a comparative success to-day,\\nyet we believe new and improved methods are to fol-\\n(41).", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "42 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nlow, and especially is this so along the line of brooding\\nafter the hatching period is safely passed. It would be\\nstrange, indeed, if among all the various inventions\\nthat are to follow, artificial incubation and rearing were\\nto be allowed to stand still. Certainly there is a chance\\nfor improvement.\\nThe first thing to consider is the incubator. There\\nare many good machines on the market. If we have\\nno knowledge in this direction we should\\nIncubator send for the catalogues of several leading\\nmakes of machines, and then make our selec-\\ntion. Do not consider the price, but try to get the best\\naccording to the light we have. They all are regulated\\nfairly well, but some do not supply air enough during\\nthe latter part of the hatch, therefore select one with\\nlarge ventilators. Small ventilating pipes are apt to\\nget clogged with spider webs, and it is next to impos-\\nsible to clean them out without ripping the machine\\nop^n.\\nA dry, well ventilated cellar is an excellent place to\\nset up a machine. Large operators build a room which\\nis half under and half out of the ground, and the inner\\nwalls are plastered. The object is to get as even a\\ntemperature as possible, for any sudden change from\\nwarm to cold or cold to warm will affect the machine,\\nno matter what the manufacturer may say to the con-\\ntrary. Sixty degrees is a good temperature, but the\\nmain point is evenness. Have the room well ventil-\\nated, but be sure there are no draughts directly on the\\nmachine, neither should the sun s rays be allowed to\\nstrike it. Keep the room sweet-smelling and the air\\npure. Set the machine perfectly level and solid, so\\nthat there will not be any jar, although we have had\\nmachines to hatch well when set on a fioor where there", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 43\\nwas much walking and some pounding, with a varied\\ntemperature, but the best plan is to avoid all this as\\nmuch as possible. Other things being equal, the eggs\\nare the direct cause of good or poor hatches, and the\\nhens that lay the eggs are at the root of the whole mat-\\nter, while the owner of the hens has it within himself\\nto cause success or failure. We have already told how to\\ncare for the hens. It is important for the operator to\\nraise his own eggs. It is far cheaper, and then he has\\nthe power to raise eggs from any variety or grade he\\nchooses, and to have fertile eggs that will hatch if he\\nhas done his part faithfully.\\nLet us go briefly over this ground again. The first\\nthing to consider is the variety. Wyandottes, Plym-\\nouth Rocks and Brahmas are the varieties most used\\nfor broilers or roasters. These are all yellow-skinned\\nfowls, and that is what the American people want.\\nTrue, the New York market the best trade is de-\\nmanding white skin, but that is largely owing to the\\nhigh-toned hotels and restaurants, where French cooks\\nare employed. White-skinned fowls being most de-\\nsired in France and England. If we prefer grades\\nthen we can recommend a cross of Indian Game cock\\non White Wyandotte or Brahma hens, or White or\\nBuff Leghorn male on Plymouth Rock or Brahma fe-\\nmales. The pure Indian Game is an ideal table fowl,\\nbut the pullets grow much slower than the cockerels.\\nIn general take a male from any of these varieties, In-\\ndian Game, Dorking, Leghorn or Houdan, and cross\\nthem on Wyandotte, Plymouth Rock, Cochin or Brah-\\nma females and we will get a good growing chick. Get\\na perfectly developed frame, keep in perfect health\\n(not too fat or too poor), and have bright active cocks,\\nand the egg will be sure to produce healthy, quick-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "44 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ngrowing chickens. Never let eggs get chilled, and do\\nnot keep them over three weeks before setting. The\\nfresher they are the better. If kept over one week be\\nsure to turn them half over three or four times a week.\\nFill up the machine, but do not over-crowd it. Run\\nthe machine according to the printed directions. Incu-\\nbator catalogues give very full details as to the opera-\\ntion of the machine and many other points, therefore\\nwe will run over this part very briefly. One hundred\\nand three degrees is the proper temperature to main-\\ntain, but we prefer to keep it at 102\u00c2\u00b0 the first week, and\\nthen the balance of the time at 103\u00c2\u00b0. After the chicks\\ncommence to pip the shell run the heat down to 102\u00c2\u00b0,\\nand after all are out run it down to 100\u00c2\u00b0 and keep it\\nthere about twelve hours before removing the chicks.\\nWe prefer to test the eggs on the seventh and four-\\nteenth days. By the seventh day we can not only re-\\nmove the infertile eggs, but also the weak\\nthe E -S g^i i^s those eggs that had vitality enough\\nto start, but not enough to carry them\\nthrough. These last can easily be picked out after a\\nlittle practice by comparing them with the fertile ones.\\nThe novice should mark all doubtful eggs, and after\\nthe hatch these should be opened and notes taken. In-\\nfertile eggs are of course perfectly clear. By the sev-\\nenth day a live egg will show a small black spot with\\nred veins running out therefrom in all directions and\\npartly filling the egg. The dead germ will show prob-\\nably the same, only the development will not be so\\ncomplete, according to the date of the germ s death.\\nAgain, the egg may have a dark or addled appearance,\\nand the contents mass at the top as the egg is slowly\\nturned, or a few red veins may be seen to adhere to the\\ninside of the shell, while the balance of the egg will", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 45\\nappear clear. Remove all such, for it is very impor-\\ntant to have the thermometer rest on a live egg. At the\\nlast testing take out all the eggs that are not properly\\ndeveloped. At this stage the egg ought to be nearly\\nopaque. True, the dead germ will look similar to the\\nlive one, but the contents will turn as the egg is turned,\\nand a little experience will teach us what eggs to re-\\nmove with tolerable certainty.\\nA good, inexpensive egg tester is necessary, whether\\nw^e set eggs in incubators or under hens. If three or\\nmore hens are set at one time, by using the\\nEs^^Tester. tester we can give all the good eggs to two\\nor more hens and then re-set those that have\\nno eggs. It is a great saving of time and hens. There\\nis no use in letting a hen set three weeks on a lot of\\ninfertile eggs.\\nThis tester is made out of an old stiff paste-\\nboard box. Take the bottom of the box and\\nbend it round and tack or sew the ends together.\\nMake it large enough around so you can slip it\\ndown over a common lamp chimney. Cut a\\nhole in the pasteboard, opposite the lamp flame, about\\nthe size of an egg. Cut notches in the bottom so as to\\ngive the lamp plenty of air. Light the lamp, slip over\\nthe tester, and by holding the egg up to the hole side-\\nwise you can see through it without trouble. Eggs can\\nbe tested the fifth day, but beginners ought to test on\\nthe seventh day.\\nThe thermometer is a very important factor in oper-\\nating an incubator. If it is not correct then we can not\\nexpect success. Always buy thermome-\\nmometer. incubator manufacturer, and one\\nthat is guaranteed correct. Cheap thermome-\\nters are a delusion. Have nothing to do with them. If", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "46 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\npossible, test your thermometer even when guaranteed\\ncorrect, and each year have them tested, for possibly\\nthey may be incorrect. Not only should we know that\\nthe thermometer is correct, but also whether the heat\\nis uniform in all parts of the egg trays of the machine.\\nIn order to test this we should have three or four ther-\\nmometers that register alike, and place these in all\\nparts of the egg tray, changing them frequently so that\\nall parts will be tested. If there is over one degree dif-\\nference or variation the machine should be rejected.\\nIf correct, or a variation of, one degree is noticed, then\\nby reversing the trays and changing the position of the\\neggs at each turning we can equalize the temperature\\nand all will be well. It is well to do this anyway. The\\nproper place for the thermometer is near the center of\\nthe machine, and placed so that the j;iiiJ M i|iiiiij|i[|it| q\\nbulb will rest upon and between two _j L-\\nfertile eggs. Push the bulb down until the top comes\\non a level with the top of the eggs. Keep the face\\nturned towards the front of the machine and raise the\\ntop of scale up so that the degree of heat can be seen\\nwithout opening the glass doors of the egg chamber. In\\norder to keep the thermometer in the proper position we\\nmake a little stand of wire, as shown in cut. The wire\\nis bent in the form of a letter M, the bottom of feet ex-\\ntending out and resting on the bottom of the Qgg tray.\\nIt is made high enough so as to just raise the thermom-\\neter scale above the eggs at about 100\u00c2\u00b0. It is a very\\ntandy little affair; any one can make it in two minutes.\\nThe reason for placing the bulb of the thermometer be-\\ntween two fertile eggs is because the eggs, as they com-\\nmence to develop, throw off heat of their own, and\\ntherefore at, say, the eighteenth day, the artificial heat\\nin the machine will be very much lower than at the", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 47\\ncommencement of the hatch, for each egg will be gen-\\nerating a small amount of heat, and if the lamp flame\\nis not lowered then the egg chamber would get too\\nhot. We recommend two eggs, for if only one is used\\nto rest the thermometer bulb on it might die and thus\\nlower the thermometer. Do not place the bulb on top\\nof an egg, for, it being thus above the egg it would give\\na false temperature. As it is, in most machines there\\nis a variation between the top and bottom of the eggs\\nof one degree, and there should be. Be sure to use\\nfertile, live germed eggs. In order to be sure, test sev-\\neral eggs every few days and mark them thus we can\\nknow just what eggs to put our thermometer between.\\nRemove the tray from the machine and place it on a\\nstand, table or anything convenient. Take out a few\\neggs from one end of the tray, place them on\\nSie^Eo-s-s *^P center and gently roll\\nthe eggs to this end, when the eggs at the\\ncenter will drop in place; repeat this operation at the\\nopposite end of tray. Thus all the eggs will be turned\\nhalf over, if carefully done, and the position of each\\negg will be changed, counteracting any possible varia-\\ntion of the heat of the egg chamber. If the room is\\ncold, perform this operation as quickly as possible, but\\nif warm, then more time can be taken, thus airing the\\neggs. No other airing is necessary, for this operation\\nis performed twice a day\u00e2\u0080\u0094 as near twelve hours apart as\\npossible and thus the eggs will get all the fresh air\\nnecessary.\\nThe moisture question has always caused more or less\\ntrouble, and will so continue for years to come, proba-\\nThe Moist- ^^ly. Experience thus far has taught us to\\nlire Ques- rely more on the ventilators than on the\\ntion. moisture pans.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "48 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nThe location of the machine and the outside temper-\\nature will have to be considered first. It is a well-\\nknown fact that the greater the difference between the\\ninside and outside of the machine the more air will pass\\nthrough. The air as it becomes hot inside the machine\\nwill naturally rise and expand and thus be forced out,\\nwhile the cold air from outside will rush in, for nature\\ncan not allow a vacuum. When the outside tempera-\\nture is high, thus nearer the temperature inside the\\nmachine, there will be less artificial heat, therefore less\\ninside expansion, which very much lessens the rush of\\nair through the ventilator therefore we can give more\\nventilation during warm weather than during cold\\nweather.\\nThe egg itself should teach us how to ventilate for\\nthe drying down of the egg is the only guide to the\\nmoisture supply. This drying down process is really\\nenlarging the air space. A freshly laid egg has little\\nor no air space, but as the process of incubation pro-\\ngresses this air space gradually enlarges, as shown in\\nthe cut, until the nineteenth day when it should occu-\\npy nearly a quarter of the entire space. We usually\\ncommence by giving plenty of ventilation, and after\\nthe seventh day giving more or less usually less un-\\ntil the eighteenth day when the moisture pans are\\nplaced in the machine. The evaporation of the egg\\ncan be plainly seen w^ith the aid of\\nthe egg tester. Every five days a\\nfew (say a dozen) eggs should be\\nexamined to see if the evaporation is\\nproceeding, as shown in the cut. If\\ntoo rapid then close the ventilators\\na little if too slowly open them. Moisture is supplied\\njust before the eggs pip so as to soften the inside skin", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 49\\nor lining of the egg and thus make it possible for the\\nchick to get out. The reason for this drying down is to\\nallow the chick room to expand and turn in, for just\\nbefore he pips the shell he expands or suddenly grows\\nand if too much moisture has been supplied he will\\ngrow too large before the nineteenth day and therefore\\nwhen he comes to expand he will not have room\\nenough left inside of his prison in which to turn, there-\\nfore, he can not crack the shell all around. Death fol-\\nlows. A healthy chick will turn clear over in the\\nshell, cracking as he goes, and finally, with a vigorous\\nkick, liberates himself and steps out into the world.\\nOn the other hand, if too much ventilation has been\\ngiven then the egg will dry down too much, thus\\ndwarfing the chick and rendering the lining too tough\\nfor him to break through. There are many causes why\\nchicks die in the shell, some of them are Too much\\nor too little moisture, irregularity of heat in the egg\\nchamber, too high or too low temperature, stale eggs,\\neggs from sickly or inbred hens, eggs from over-fat\\nhens, lack of vigor in cocks, lack of exercise with 4he\\nhens, lack of uniformity in egg shell. In short the\\nbreeding stock is as important as the machine. Some\\neggs are porous at the large end and others have weak\\nspots in the shell, thus evaporation is greater.\\n4", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V.\\nTHE BROODER- BROODING HOUSES FEEDING.\\nThe method of brooding is of vast importance. It is\\noften easier to hatch the chicks than it is to raise them.\\nOn Large plants the brooding house is from 100 to 200\\nfeet long by from 12 to 15 feet wide. Atone end is the\\nfeed room, and this also contains the hot water heater\\nthat supplies heat to the brooders. Along the back or\\nnorth side of this long building runs a walk or passage,\\nusually three and one-half feet wide. Along the front\\nside of this passageway run the brooders. This brooder\\nis simply a long box two or three feet wide, and extend-\\ning the length of the house. Along the top and just\\nunder the cover run the hot water pipes which supplies\\nthe desired degree of heat. Inside of the brooder the\\nspace is divided into five-foot lengths, and the space in\\nfront of them is divided by a fence to correspond to the\\nbrooder divisions, thus each space or pen inside of the\\nhouse is 5 feet wide by 7 or 9 feet long. Outside of\\nthe house the yards are usually 5 feet wide by 16 feet\\nlong. The stove that supplies heat to the brooders\\nburns coal. The whole outfit is supplied by incubator\\nmanufacturers.\\nAnother method is to use individual brooders, heated\\nby a lamp, in place of the coal stove and hot water\\npipes. This is better for a small house where only a\\nfew brooders are needed, but too expensive for a long\\nbuilding. Coal is cheaper than oil. Both of these\\n(50)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n51\\nmethods are good, and are used by those who go in for\\nearly winter broilers, but it is not the ideal method for\\nraising stock birds. It is all right for cold weather,\\nbut as spring and warm weather approaches con-\\nditions change. Chicks will bear confinement during\\ncold weather (it is the only way they can be successfully\\nraised at such times), but with warm weather we must\\nprepare for the changed conditions and give the chicks\\ntheir freedom. For this reason we strongly advocate\\nthe individual house and brooder. Outdoor brooders\\nare preferable, and for early spring the small house is\\nan additional protection.\\nThese houses can be made light and cheap, so that\\nthey can be moved from one place to another as desire\\nor need presents. Build these houses about five by six\\nfeet on the ground, with the back about two feet and\\nthe front five feet high. After the chicks get old\\nenough to do without the brooder it can be removed\\nand roosting poles put in. These poles should be not\\nless than four inches wide and twelve inches above the\\nground floor. Move\\nthe coop every other\\nday to fresh ground.\\nEach house will ac-\\ncommodatelOO chicks\\nuntil they are three\\nmonths old, when\\nthey should be di-\\nvided into two flocks. --^^:J;\u00c2\u00bbi^MH/v^Cri^v ^;!^3^^ Ni^j\\nIf room is lacking these houses can be placed as close\\nto each other as 50 feet, but give each flock all the\\nroom possible. Of course, these houses should be far\\nenough removed from older fowls so that there will be\\nno mixing. Brooder chicks have two decided ad van-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "52 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ntages over the natural method, viz.: Free from lice and\\ngapes. We have never had a case of gapes among our\\nbrooder chicks, although other cliicks with hens have\\nhad it when raised only a few yards away from, the\\nbrooder chicks. The reason for this is that the brooder\\nchicks are always fed on a clean board inside of the\\nbrooder house, and thus have failed to pick up the\\ngape worms or their eggs. Gape worms breed only in\\nmoist earth and during w^arm weather. We have\\nplaced chicks in our long brooder house as late as May,\\nand after they were two weeks old have taken away the\\nfences and allowed them full liberty, and yet they failed\\nto get the gapes while running on infected ground.\\nSome writers claim that brooder-raised chicks never\\nattain the perfection of build and feather that natural\\nraised chicks attain. This is doubtless so where the\\nforcing method is practiced or where the chicks are\\nraised during the winter or unnatural season. When,\\nhowever, we use the individual house and brooder, and\\ngive tlie chicks free range in the fields (we refer to\\nspring hatches) and feed for a natural rapid growth,\\nthen the brooder chicks will usually outstrip the nat-\\nural raised ones and prove better specimens for either\\nbreeding or exhibition, providing intelligence has been\\nused. Brooder-raised chicks can not surpass natural-\\nraised ones when both are handled in the proper way,\\nbut far too often the hen is supposed to perform part of\\nthe owner s duties in connection with her own, and\\nthus the chicks will suffer from this neglect more than\\nthe brooder chicks, for the latter will have to be looked\\nafter more closely. The work in caring for a given\\nnumber of chicks (say 100) is far less under the arti-\\nficial than under the natural method. About ten hens\\nwill be required to hover 100 chicks. Some hens are", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 53\\ncross and some careless. Ten coops will require clean-\\ning, and a great many steps will have to be taken to\\nproperly attend to their wants, and during storms the\\nwork is much greater. One hundred chicks in one\\nbrooder and one house can all be taken care of in a\\nvery short time, and the saving of feed necessary for\\nthe ten hens will more than pay for the oil used to\\nheat the one brooder. We believe that every farmer\\nshould own at least one 300-egg size incubator and two\\nto five little houses and individual out-door brooders.\\nIt costs something to start, but these hings will last\\nfor years, and double the number of chicks could be\\nraised each year with less work and worry on the part\\nof the good wife. If mother desires it, fit her up,\\nfor she can manage such things far better than the\\naverage good man. We do not advocate women go-\\ning into the poultry business exclusively on a large\\nscale. The work is too hard for her strength, but if\\nshe has the talent and money to hire a hand}^ man\\nto do the rough work, then we see no objection. We\\ndo not like to think of mother doing such work, but\\nit is necessary for a great many women to make their\\nown unaided living and to such we would far rather\\nsee them the proud owners of a poultry plant than\\nworking in some one s kitchen or sitting all day in a\\nclose office using a typewriter.\\nThe proper degree of heat to allow in the brooder is\\na disputed question. Let us start from the incubator.\\nThe chicks are now about all out of the shell, and the\\nheat has run down to 100\u00c2\u00b0, and they should be allowed\\nto remain in this temperature about twenty-four hours,\\nor until all are hatched and have had a chance to dry\\noff and expand their legs and lungs. The brooders\\nshould be started up several days before the chicks", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "54 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nare hatched, so as to have the heat under perfect\\ncontrol, and the proper degree, which is 98^. The\\nroom or nursery should receive proper attention.\\nNearly all large plants have a room set apart for\\nthis purpose, and the chicks are kept in here for the\\nfirst ten days before they are put in the regular brood-\\ning pens. This room can be fitted up with individual\\nbrooders, and the run can be the length of the brooder\\nand three feet deep. It is necessary to keep this room\\nat 70\u00c2\u00b0, even if a stove has to be placed therein for this\\npurpose. Plenty of sunshine and good ventilation are\\nnecessary, but no draught should be allowed to strike\\nthe chicks. Run the brooder at 98\u00c2\u00b0 for the first two\\ndays, and then lower it to 95\u00c2\u00b0.\\nWe now have reference to winter-hatched chicks,\\nwhere the business is carried on a large scale. When\\nwe say to have the brooder at 98\u00c2\u00b0, we mean when the\\nchicks are all in it. If the brooder is large the chicks\\nwill not raise the heat any, but if it is small and tight\\nthe chicks may raise the heat from two to five degrees,\\nso it will only be necessary to have the brooder at from\\n90\u00c2\u00b0 to 93\u00c2\u00b0, according to size and tightness. Make it a\\npoint to know all about your brooder and the heat, for\\nchicks can not be successfully raised in a varied tem-\\nperature. Some writers say that there is no place for a\\nthermometer in a brooder, yet w^e always use one or\\nmore.\\nTrue, the experienced operator can tell how the heat\\nis by the action of the chicks. If they sit around com-\\nfortably all is well, but if they huddle together then it\\nis too cold. If they try to get away from the heat by\\nsticking their heads out of the brooder, etc., then it is\\ntoo hot. Sometimes little chicks will crowd, even if\\nall is right, and the operator should separate them be-", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 55\\nfore going to bed. The proper way is to test the brood-\\ner in all parts (two inches up from the floor) with sev-\\neral true thermometers, and then place fasten a ther-\\nmometer in such a position so it will give about the\\ntrue heat in all parts. A degree s variation will do lit-\\ntle or no harm.\\nTlie second week it should be lowered to 90\u00c2\u00b0, and\\nthis heat maintained for four weeks, when it can be\\nlowered to 85\u00c2\u00b0 and then 80\u00c2\u00b0. It is just as important to\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0maintain the proper degree of heat day and night in the\\nbrooder as it is in the incubator. This is a comparative-\\nly easy thing to do during even weather, but not so\\neasy during changeable weather or during day and\\nnight. Do not roast the chicks during the day, but\\ngive less heat if necessary. Some brooders are pro-\\nvided with a regulator, and it is a convenience, but do\\nnot rely too much thereon, for we have yet to see a reg-\\nulator that does not require regidating. Before we\\nspeak of the feed, let us once more study the different\\nplans of brooding houses. The one in most favor for\\nlarge plants is the long house. One hundred\\nHoTses feet to 200 feet seems to be the length most\\ndesired, and if this does not provide space\\nenough then another one is added. These houses are\\nusually 14 feet wide. A room is left at one end, say\\n14x12, or longer, as feed and cook room. The brooder\\nheater is also situated here. For mixing and cooking\\nthe food we use a Mott Patent Portable Caldron (thirty\\ngallon capacity). We could not get along without it.\\nIt is very convenient and requires very little wood to\\nrun it, for it only requires a fire from one to three\\nhours a day. This room enters by a door, the walk or\\npassage-way which runs the whole length of the brooder\\nhouse and along the back, or north side of the house.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "56\\nPRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE,\\nThis walk is most convenient if 3 2 to 4 feet wide.\\nTlie brooder-box runs along the front side of the walk,\\nand we prefer them two feet wide. The top should be\\nmade in five-foot lengths, so as to be readily removed\\nshould anything require it. The back of brooder\\nshould be a door (five feet long each) which when lift-\\ned makes it convenient to remove the droppings with a\\nm\\nill\\nmmm\\\\ mm\\ns=J.0t^O 5ROOOI/\\\\/Q H0U 5E. y\\nQROU/VD PLA/V^\\nT scraper, letting them fall in the walk, where they are\\neasily swept up and removed. The front of brooders\\nshould have a three-inch opening, hung with fringe.\\nThe chicks soon learn to push this aside when entering\\nand it helps to keep in the heat. As the chicks grow\\nthey are moved along away from the stove or warm end\\nof the house, and the opening can be deeper, of from\\nfour to five inches. Along the top of this brooder and\\ndirectly under the cover, run the hot-water pipes. We\\nprefer a system using four pipes, three inside the", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 57\\nbrooders and the fourth, or return pipe, running\\noutside the brooder box. The little inside pens\\nin front of the brooders are five feet wide and as\\nlong as the width of the house will allow of course,\\nthe brooders are divided into five-foot spaces to corre-\\nspond with the width of the pens. We also prefer three\\ntight board partitions, wdth doors in the passage-way,\\nin a house 150 feet long. Thus the smaller chicks get\\nmore warmth from the stove, and these partitions check\\nall drafts and make the house warmer. This plan is\\ncertainly the best and most convenient for winter use,\\nbut a failure for late hatching. It seems to draw the\\nheat, and will get as hot as an oven in spite of every-\\nthing. Then again, the chicks, as spring progresses,\\nrequire more freedom and a grass run. Winter chicks\\nseem to thrive and fatten in the long house, but will\\ndo neither in warm or hot weather. In fact, some rais-\\ners have discarded the long house altogether, relying\\nsolely on small detached houses fitted with outdoor\\nbrooders.\\nOne brooder large enough to hold 100 chicks is used\\nfor every house. These brooders are heated with an\\noil stove or lamp. We do not like them for winter use\\nas it requires too much time to feed and care for so\\nmany, and too much exposure on the part of the at-\\ntendant during stormy weather. For spring use they\\nare excellent, and especially should they be used by\\nthose wlio only raise a few hundred chicks. These\\nhouses should be about 6x8 feet, 3 feet high at rear and\\n5 or 6 feet high in front, or any convenient size. Cover\\nroof and sides with roofing paper. The window^ should be\\nabout 3x4 feet and up only four inches from the sill. Put\\nthe window in lengthwise, so as to get all the sunlight\\npossible on the floor. Hang it so it can be readily opened", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "58 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nduring warm days. The door can also be in the front,\\nand a little slide arranged in the bottom of same to al-\\nlow the chicks liberty daring w^arm, clear days. Place\\nin the brooder, and, if large enough, place in 100\\nchicks. Another advantage this house has is that as\\nthe chicks grow the brooder can be removed and the\\nhouse used as a roosting place. These houses should\\nbe placed out in the field away from old stock, and can\\nbe moved at the will of the operator twenty-five yards\\napart will do for small chicks. No fences are used, so\\nthe chicks will have perfect freedom. Still another\\nmethod is used for April, May and June months. This\\nis simply to use the outdoor brooders without houses.\\nWe prefer the small house, especially if the w^eather\\nproves damp and chilly, but good success has followed\\ntheir use, and persons with little capital can safely use\\nthe outdoor brooders for ordinary spring weather.\\nAll incubator manufacturers make outdoor and in-\\ndoor lamp brooders.\\nNow since we have considered the brooder houses or\\nmethods of housing we can turn our attention to feeding.\\nNature has provided the chick with food for\\nFeecliiig ^Yiq first thirty-six hours, as the chick ab-\\nsorbs the yolk of the egg just before it breaks the shell\\nthus gaining a supply of food as stated above.\\nAfter the chick is thirty-six hours old commence to\\nfeed by giving dry rolled oat meal (some prefer the\\nhard or pin-head oat meal.) For newly hatched chicks\\nwe confine them to a board about twelve inches wide\\njust in front of the brooder. A ware screen runs across\\nthe front of this board and thus the chicks can not\\nwander away from the brooder and get chilled before\\nold enough to know how to get back. Five days\\nis long enough to confine tbem to this board. Cover", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 59\\nthe board with coarse sand and sprinkle a little of\\nthe oat meal on this. Feed every three hours for the\\nfirst two days and arrange it so that the chicks wall\\nclean all up at least in an hour before the next feed,\\nthus they will not overeat and will also pick up some\\ngrit or sharp sand, which, is very necessary. This\\nboard should be cleaned off every day and re-sanded, of\\ncourse.\\nThe third day commence to feed every two hours and\\nlet this food be baked the same as bread, or if a porta-\\nble caldron is used then it can first be scalded and then\\nbaked or cooked until quite dry, stirring frequently to\\nkeep it from burning. (We find a long-handled light-\\nweight spade the most convenient for stirring and mix-\\ning with when the caldron is used.)\\nThis bread should be composed of the following\\nOne quart each of ground corn, wheat middlings, bran\\nand ground oats the hulls being removed. If the oats\\nare ground very fine all the heart can easily be sieved\\nin the mash. Mix this w^ell while dry and add enough\\nmilk or water to moisten it also, add a little salt. If\\nit is to be baked use sour milk and salaratus. Feed this\\ndry and only what the chicks will eat up in, say, fifteen\\nminutes. Keep pure clean water by the chicks at all\\ntimes. A flower-pot and a saucer makes a good con-\\nvenient drinking vessel. The hole should be stopped\\nup with a cork and a slit about half an inch made in\\nthe lower edge of the pot w^ith an old saw. Fill the\\npot, place in the saucer and invert quickly, thus about\\nhalf an inch of water will always be around the edge of\\nthe saucer and the chicks can not wet themselves w^hile\\ndrinking. It is easily cleaned, which should frequent-\\nly be done. If milk is at hand boil it and use it w^ith\\nan equal quantity of water, or half milk and half wa-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "60 PKACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nter. The vessel will require a washing every day\\nthough, and a frequent scalding out in order to keep it\\nsweet.\\nIt is best not to give meat or green food for the first\\nweek. At the beginning of the second week commence\\nto feed a very little chopped onion at noon. After the\\nsecond week feed more liberally, or all they wish to eat\\nfor their mid-forenoon or noon feed. Give chopped\\nonion, cabbage or any other green food you have, pro-\\nvided it is good. Chopped grass or cured clover hay\\nis also excellent. The hay should be cut up very\\nfine, one-eighth inch lengths. This should be slightly\\nscalded with hot water and let stand tightly cov-\\nered for an hour before feeding. A little bran or\\nmiddlings can be mixed in to dry it up if desired.\\nNever feed bran raw, as it is very hard to digest.\\nHave little boxes at convenient places in the pens\\nnear the feeding board, and keep them full of small\\nsharp grit, ground bone (coarse), and cracked char-\\ncoal. We often mix a little ground charcoal in the\\nfood, for it is an excellent blood purifier and corrector.\\nAfter the first week it is best to mix a little ground\\nbone (it must be sweet and good), in the soft mash or\\nbread, and after the second week say a handful of pre-\\npared ground meat to a pailful of food should be\\nadded. The best thing is green bone and meat. This\\nshould be cut up fine and let it take the place of one\\nmeal (all they will eat up clean quickly and with a rel-\\nish every other day, or three times a w^eek. Stale bak-\\ner s bread makes a good change also. Feed the baked\\nfood until the fourth week, w^hen the food can be\\nscalded instead of baked. Be careful to use only\\nenough hot water or milk to thoroughly wet the mess,\\nand let it stand tightly covered for an hour before feed", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 61\\ning. Always feed dry food, or as near dry as possible.\\nOverfeeding is a serious mistake, for it will soon de-\\nrange the digestive organs and cause death. It is bet-\\nter to underfeed than overfeed.\\nExercise is another important feature with brooder\\nchicks. Have the little pens in front of the brooder\\nwell littered with finely-cut straw, or better, clover\\nhay. Into this scatter pin-head oatmeal or cracked\\nwheat, and you w^ill be surprised how early in life the\\nchicks will learn to scratch for it. They should be set\\nto work the second week, if possible. After the second\\nweek they should be allowed to run out in the outside\\npen or yard on all nice days unless very cold. After\\nthey are six weeks old they should be allowed to run\\nout every day unless it is actually stormy. Plenty of\\noutdoor exercise and fresh air should be the rule at the\\nabove age. It is a mistake to keep them too w^arm or\\nhoused up. The brooder should be not lower than 80\u00c2\u00b0\\nat six weeks of age, but the house can be down to 50\\nif necessary. Too much heat will make them delicate.\\nThey should be made vigorous by plenty of exercise in\\na moderate atmosphere. If the chicks have grown\\nas they should they may have whole wheat or cracked\\ncorn for the night feed when they are a month old and\\nthereafter. This feed should be scattered in the litter\\nan hour before sundown, so they can find it before\\ndark. Be sure they go to roost with a full crop.\\nIf we are raising for market, the chicks should be\\nfed soft food at all ages, feeding hard grain at night\\nonly. They will thus do better and grow faster, for the\\nsoft scalded food is more easily digested than the hard\\nfood.\\nA great many people make the serious mistake of\\noverfeeding brooder chicks. It is so easy to fill up the", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "62 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nfeed trough at each feeding time, or giving them enough\\nto last them from one feed until the next. It is simply\\nsuicide to the chicks and to the owner. In order to\\nhave them grow properly, it is necessary to keep them\\nhungry. When you go to feed, they should be hungry\\nenough to walk all over you. True, they wiU some-\\ntimes try to do this even if not hungry, but the feeder\\ncan soon tell how hungry they are.\\nRemember you can never fatten chicks by keeping\\nfood before them at all times. It is just as necessary\\nfor the fowl s digestive organs to have a rest between\\nfeeds as it is in the human being. Overfeeding\\ntends to indigestion, which is often taken for cholera\\nand a number of ills, of which we will speak further on.\\nFeed liberally, or what the chicks will eat up in, say,\\nhalf an hour. Thus all will have a chance to get enough\\nfor the time being. After this meal the chicks will\\nsoon go to work, thus hastening digestion and prepar-\\ning themselves for the next feed. We have tried feed-\\ning ^abundantly, even keeping food before the chicks\\nall the time, and have been surprised to find a large\\npart of them go to roost with almost an empty crop.\\nChicks or fowls will stand heavy feeding for about ten\\ndays, but after that they will commence to go back,\\nand especially is this so with brooder chicks when\\nthey are yarded. If a chick gets good and hungry,\\nhe will fill his crop before stopping, and as thq food\\ndigests very rapidly, then we can get them to take a\\nfull meal three or four times a day, and especially is\\nthis necessary at the night feed, which should be hard\\nfood after they are five weeks old. They will thrive all\\nthe better if they are not allowed a full crop at any feed\\nexcept at night.\\nLet us now sum up for convenience.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 63\\nHave the brooder at the proper heat at least a da}^\\nbefore the chicks are due. Let them remain, undis-\\nturbed, in the incubator twenty-four hours after hatch-\\ning (some recommend thirty-six hours), and then feed\\nrolled oats, as previously stated, changing to rolled\\noats in the morning and bread the rest of the day.\\nWhen four weeks old, the food may be scalded in-\\nstead of baked, and the night feed may be whole or\\ncracked wheat, cracked corn and Kaffir corn. Kaffir\\ncorn is an excellent food for old or young fowls. It is\\nsown in drills the same as fodder corn, and is tended\\nthe same. It yields abundantly, surpassing corn, and\\nif it is headed can be threshed the same as wheat. One\\nhead will often shell two large handfuls. The grain is\\nabout the size of a large grain of wheat, only it is\\nround.\\nExercise is very important to health and growth,\\nand this should be encouraged by keeping the pen well\\nlittered. After five weeks of age, the soft mash may be\\ncomposed of ground corn, wheat middlings, and finely\\nground oats, equal parts, to which maybe added a pint\\nof ground meat and bone to ten quarts of the mixture.\\nIf we are feeding green cut bone, then the prepared\\nmeat should be left out. It is well to add a pint\\nof linseed meal also, for it is an excellent food, only it\\nis too rich to be used freely. Boiled small potatoes\\nsliould form the noon feed three days a week from four\\nweeks of age on. Finely cut clover hay should always\\nform at least one-third of the bulk, and the measure\\nshould be pressed down and running over. If the pens\\nare littered frequently with clover hay, then none need\\nbe fed in the soft mash, and this we consider the\\nbetter way to feed it. Little green food must be fed\\nif hay is given. This method of feeding can be con-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "64 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ntinned until the chicks are nearly ready for market,\\nwhen the mash should be largely ground corn, and\\nthe meat and linseed meal may be increased somewhat,\\nbut not enough to produce diarrhea. Should the feed\\nproduce diarrhea at any stage of growth, then it should\\nhe changed immediately, but the cause of diarrhea is\\nusually lack of heat in the brooders or an irregular\\nheat. Keep plenty of good sharp grit constantly before\\nthe chicks; also charcoal and cracked bone. Feed on\\na clean board, and clean it off before each feed. Do\\nnot put over 100 chicks in a brooder when first hatched.\\nWhen they reach four weeks of age, or even three\\nweeks, separate them and put only fifty in a brooder.\\nIn separating put all the strongest ones by themselves,\\notherwise they will crowd out and trample the weaker\\nones. Thin out the chicks as stated above or they will\\ntake things into their own hands and drop out by death.\\nThe feed board should be long enough so that all the\\nchicks can get to it at once and not crowd. We use a\\nboXrd six inches wide and six to seven feet long. A\\nlath is nailed around the edges and projects up half an\\ninch, thus keeping the food from falling off. In the\\npens where the larger chicks are w^e raise the board up\\nabout four inches by nailing pieces of boards on the\\nunder side edgewise. The pieces are longer than the\\nwidth of the board, so that it can not be upset. We\\nfind a mason s plastering trowel to be the best thing\\nout for cleaning off the board. It cuts right down\\nto the hard board every time. These boards should be\\nkept scrupulously clean, even to the use of soap and\\nwater occasionally. Provide clean w^ater twice a day.\\nClean the brooder floor off each day, and sand it after-\\nwards to keep the droppings from sticking to it (if\\nboard floors are used The pens should be raked over", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 65\\nand droppings removed at least once a month, and\\neach fall the little outside yards should be dug up and\\nsowed with rye, or better, crimson clover. This will\\npurify the ground, and if sown early and thick will\\nprovide a good picking ground. Even the roots will\\nbe dug up, thus affording the chicks exercise.\\nMr. Arthur G. Duston is a practical poultryman and\\nbroiler raiser. He is one of the few who can make\\nbroilers weigh two pounds each at only eight weeks of\\nage. He describes his method in the Reliable Poultry\\nJournal, from which we propose to take a few extracts.\\nMr. Duston says: We will say that we have de-\\ncided on what variety (of fowls) we have decided to\\nrun. Our eggs are as fresh as possible and of uniform\\nsize. We have put them in the incubator and, with\\nproper care, on the morning of the twenty-second day\\nwe find the chicks nicely dried off. We now get our\\nwarm, cloth-lined basket, with a heavy cover or shawl,\\nto prevent them getting chilled [very necessary precau-\\ntions Ed.].\\nWell, we have got them safely, we hope, into the\\nbrooder, which has been brought up to the temperature\\nof the incubator. Of course, we have placed our board\\nin slides about a foot outside of the hover, so that the\\nbabies can not get out in the long pen and not be able\\nto find the way back, and thus get chilled. Just bear\\nin mind for the first week that to keep them warm is\\nmore essential than food.\\nThe first day of their lives in the brooder has almost\\npassed, and they have not eaten anything but sand\\n(grit). Night has begun to come on, and it is time to\\nfeed the hens; but let us first scatter down for the\\nbabies a liberal supplv of rolled oat meal, the white\\n5", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "66 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nflakes of which will instantly attract them, and they\\nare left to themselves. The next morning, as we turn\\nout at daylight, we find them calling for breakfast.\\nWe touch up the fire, and then a feed of rolled oats is\\ngiven them with a dish of warmed skimmed milk. We\\nuse an old fruit can for this purpose, with a notch cut\\nin one edge. Some of the little fellows that would not\\neat will drink, so you save them along until they will\\neat. That you will save more chicks by giving them\\nwarmed skimmed milk than by any system of feeding\\ngrain is my way of thinking. We next powder some\\ncharcoal, and this is put into a dish and set in for the\\nchicks to eat.\\nWe are now going to feed every two hours until our\\nyoung charge is turned over to the butcher. For the\\nfirst week you are limited to rolled oats, millet\\ntwohoursf cracked corn, run through a mill\\nto make it fine enough, then sifted to save the\\nmeal, which, of course, is wasted by throwing it on the\\nground. We have kept milk before them all the time,\\nand have carefully washed the dishes twice a day.\\nSome think skimmed milk expensive food, but after\\ntrying it you will be convinced that the increased\\ngrowth that comes by feeding it gives you a good\\nprofit on it. As we have put into each hover about one\\nhundred chicks, we must see that the sand is scraped\\noff the top as often as necessary, probably twice the first\\nweek, which will be increased each week until about\\nthe third, when we commence to clean them every\\nmorning.\\nNow the second week we will remove the board (in\\nfront of the hover) and keep an eye on the chicks to\\nsee that they do not get lost by staying away from the\\nfire too long and thus get chilled. For this week we", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 67\\nwill feed about the same, only perhaps it will be best to\\ntry them on a little mash made up of one-third corn meal\\nand two-thirds wheat bran, seasoned with salt and red\\npepper. Not much will be eaten, but they will get so\\nbefore the end of the week that they will look for it, as\\nyou feed your hard and soft grains alternately. The\\nthird week we always settle down to our regular routine\\nto be continued until about ready to market. During\\nthe second week we have cracked some wheat in our\\nmill, so have had that for our extra dish and a change.\\nGive corn as a last feed generally. There is one thing\\nabsolutely imperative. That is to get your chicks out\\non the ground. If it is bright and warm, put them\\nout for a few minutes when a week old. Don t let\\nthem stand humped up and shiver, but make them\\nhustle around by driving or feeding a handful of millet\\nseed. After the second week they must go out every\\nday unless it storms, no matter if it is zero weather.\\nAs we enter upon the duties of the third week, we\\nwill now get our routine started, and will see the chicks\\npush along for the next five weeks, at which time we\\nhope to see two-pound birds ready for the market. The\\nfirst thing in the morning is a feed of hard grain; then\\ncomes a feed of chopped raw potatoes (a meat chopper\\nwith a large holed disc is used for this purpose). Now\\ntake their food dish and give each pen all they will\\neat. A little later we throw in a little cabbage cut in\\nstrips, which they will seize and chase each other\\naround until it is eaten. This constitutes all the green\\nfood they have, unless once in a while we may substi-\\ntitute onions.\\nWe have gotten our mash ready for the day, and as\\nnine o clock has come we will feed our first feed of it\\nfor the day. Only feed what they will eat quickly.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "68 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nAt eleven o clock another feed of the mash. Then the\\ndishes are picked up and washed. Again at one and\\nthree o clock we feed the mash, and if we have used\\ngood judgment we have had a hungry mob at each\\nfeeding. At five o clock, or before dark, we throw\\ndown a liberal feed of cracked corn. We follow this\\nbill of fare for about four weeks.\\nTo come back to the six or eight weeks old chicks, we\\nmust think of finishing the.m off. We examine them,\\nweigh a few, calculate how much flesh can\\nFinishing made on them in about ten days, for as\\nbroilers Boston has no use for anything over\\nfour pounds to the pair. We have fed so much bran\\nthat, as we lay back the feathers on the breast, we say,\\nThey ought to have more color. How can we get\\nit? We know corn (yellow) will do it, but we lose\\ntime if we drop off from soft feed to hard. Therefore,\\nwe put into the mash all the cotton seed meal we can\\nstir in and not make it salvy or puddingy, as\\nwe ^all it. With a little treacle added we have accom-\\nplished the result. We now have a fine yellow skin if\\nwe have not foolishly chosen a blue-blooded carcass; but\\nany yellow-legged variety will succumb to the treat-\\nment. I will caution you against feeding this for too\\nlong a time, say more than two weeks, as the chick will\\nget clogged of it, and you can not hold their flesh, to\\nsay nothing of making any, unless you can keep their\\nappetites up to the clip. We have now forced\\nthe birds for eight weeks, and have obtained what we\\nset out for two-pound broilers at eight weeks. This\\nhas been successfully accomplished on our farm here\\nwith White Wyandottes. We have not done quite so\\nwell with any other variety. By continuing the regu-\\nlar feed we have made five and five-eighths pound", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 69\\nroasters at fifteen weeks old. One word of caution,\\ndon t attempt to raise your breeding females under\\nsuch hot-house methods, because you will sacrifice size\\nthrough early maturity, as after a period of forcing, as\\ngiven above, it is no uncommon thing for pullets to lay\\nat sixteen weeks old and w^e all know that is enough to\\nstop growth. The summing up of the discussion is\\nbreed, food, care.\\nProbably the greatest boom in artificial methods of\\nraising chicks was started at Hammonton, New Jersey.\\nMr. P. H. Jacobs, editor of the Poultry Keep-\\nRemarks main mover, and we are indebted\\nto him for the first practical light. Mr. James\\nRankin was probably in the field a little earlier, but to-\\nday these two men still hold the fort, and can tell you\\nmore about raising chicks artificially in half an hour\\nthan almost any one else can in half a day. Hammon-\\nton has seen its day, however, but the many lessons\\nlearned there have been very beneficial to the poultry\\nworld. It was there clearly demonstrated that broiler\\nraising alone is a failure. Broilers and eggs are all\\nright, but broilers, eggs and fruit are better.\\nMr. Pressey was also one of the pioneers in the arti-\\nficial method, and he successfully raised thousands of\\nchicks. We will here briefly give his method of feed-\\ning and handling Mr. Pressey ran his incubator in\\na room on the second floor of his dwelling, but had a\\nregular brooder house, with muslin windows (instead\\nof glass). He used individual lamp brooders. In a\\nrecent lecture he made the following statements\\nVery much depends on the kind of food given chick-\\nens, how^ prepared and when given. Of course, the\\nprincipal food must be the different grains. Corn alone\\nwill not make a good chicken it is most valuable for", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "70 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nits fattening and warming qualities. Wheat contains\\nthe material for bone, feathers, etc.; oats for muscle.\\nSo we feed corn, two parts; wheat, one part; oats, one\\npart, and we have a fast-growing chicken. Feed either\\nof these grains alone and we have all kinds of mon-\\nstrosities weak-legged, sore-eyed, no feathers, and\\nevery conceivable deformity [referring to brooder\\nchicks that are yarded Ed.]. Add to these grains a\\nquantity of meat to take the place of insects, which\\nform a part of their natural food. See that they have\\nplenty of sand or gravel. They have no teeth, and\\nmust have this grit to grind the food in the gizzard.\\nGive oyster or clam shells ground as fine as wheat.\\nKeep by them, also, powdered charcoal it prevents\\nthe digestive organs from becoming clogged with soured\\nfood if they have eaten too much. If all these things\\nare provided for them, the sheds kept clean, occasion-\\nally sprinkled with carbolic acid, and once a month\\ngiven a thin coat of w^hitewash, the chicks should keep\\nin perfect health. But if any signs of roup or other\\ndisease to which they are subject should appear, we use\\na liberal supply of Douglas mixture, which is simply\\none pound of sulphate of iron (copperas) and one\\nounce of sulphuric acid dissolved in one gallon of wa-\\nter. Dose, two or three tablespoonfuls to each 100\\nchicks in their food or drink for each day until they\\nare better.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI,\\nDRESSING FOR MARKET, PACKING, ETC. GETTING A\\nREPUTATION.\\nOf course there are two ways of dressing chicks\\nscalding and dry picking. The latter method is the\\none used by all large broiler plants, for it pays, although\\nit is the most expensive. It is impossible to pick a\\nchick after being scalded and not rub a little of the\\nskin off. Wherever the skin is rubbed off the chick\\nwill turn dark in an hour after picking, and as time\\npasses the dark places grow darker and give the chick\\na stale look. On the other hand the dry-picked chick\\nwill look fresh for days; in fact we have kept dry-\\npicked chicks seven days (fall weather and only mod-\\neratel}^ cool) and then sold them to private customers\\nand no questions asked. How much longer they would\\nhave kept we do not know. We only made the experi-\\nment once. There is an art in dry picking. A few\\nmen have become expert, and can pick a chick clean in\\nten minutes or less, but the average person will require\\ntwenty minutes. The object is to get the large feathers\\nout before life is extinct. After all these feathers are\\nremoved then the bird is handed over to the pin-feath-\\nerers, who are usually women. It is customary to pay\\nthree cents a bird, and they will average about thirty\\nbirds per day of ten hours. It takes a lively woman to\\npin-feather fifty chicks a day, although some do it. A\\nman who understands it can easily keep four women\\n(71)", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "72 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ngoing. It takes one to three minutes to take out all the\\nlarge feathers.\\nAll the arrangements for picking should be made the\\nday before. A long, narrow coop should be arranged\\nclose to the sticking pole, and this pole should be placed\\nnear where the pin-featherer is to sit. We nail a pole\\nor shingle rib fast to the side of the feed room on end\\nof brooder house. This pole projects out about four\\nfeet. Near the end w^e tie a piece of twine (doubled),\\nand this comes down just low enough so that when we\\nslip the chick s feet in the slipnoose in the end of the\\nstring the body of the chick will come down just below\\nour shoulders. A high stool can be used to partly sit\\non if desired. As the chick is relieved of its large\\nfeathers it is passed in the door to the pin-featherers.\\nIf the weather is hot, then things are moved to a shady\\ncorner. Thus the sticker has to take but three or four\\nsteps to either get a chick or pass one along to the wo-\\nmen. A large barrel (oil barrels after the oil has been\\nburhed out are good) stands handy to the pickers (out-\\ndoors under a window and protected from the sun).\\nThis barrel is filled with fresh clean water, to w^hich a\\nlittle salt has been added, and as the chick is dressed it is\\nthrown in, and should there remain two or three hours,\\nbut let us return to the killing process. The chicks\\nshould be shut up the night before in a clean coop with\\nboard floor. They may be given a supper, but do not\\nfeed them a particle the day they are to be killed. Some\\nwriters say they should not be fed for twenty-four hours\\nbefore killing. Probably that is correct, only we\\nhaven t the heart to let them starve as long as that. At\\nany rate the crop should be entirely empty when killed,\\nand twelve hours will accomplish this.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 78\\nThe chicks that are to be killed in the morning\\nshould be placed handy to the killer. The small blade\\nof a pocket knife (if sharp) answers well for\\nKilling sticking. The doomed chick is bound up by\\nthe feet in the slip noose, and the killer should\\nrun the backs of the first and second fingers of the left\\nhand between one wing and the backs of the third and\\nfourth fingers between the other wing. Shut down on\\nthe wings and with the right hand raise the head and\\nplace it between the thumb and third finger of the left\\nhand open the beak and prop it open with the first\\nfinger of the left hand. The head should be in such a\\nposition so that the beak will point out from the hand\\nand so the roof of the mouth (when opened) will be\\npresented full to the killer. Thus we hold the chick\\nsecurely, and by holding tightly and pulling down on\\nthe string the bird can not move, no matter how hard\\nhe may try. The right hand is left free to stick and\\npull the feathers. The killer now places the knife in\\nthe bird s mouth and shoves the point into the brain of\\nthe bird. This is the particular point in killing. This\\nstab should be made in the center of the mouth, be-\\ntween the eyes and ears. If correctly done you will feel\\na slight shiver so to speak pass through the bird,\\nand thus he loses control of the feathers so that they\\ncan be pulled out by the handful without tearing the\\nskin. Remember it all depends on this sticking, and a\\nlittle practice will soon tell how it should be done.\\nDraw the knife from side to center on each side at top\\nor roof of mouth. These cuts should be made just back\\nof the eyes, and if cut sufficiently the blood will run a\\nstream out of the mouth. The mouth is then dropped,\\nbut the thumb and finger of the left hand should still\\nhold a few feathers on top of head so the bird can not", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "74 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nspatter blood on the killer. All this is done in much\\nless time than it takes to tell it, and the feathers should\\nbe drawn immediately.\\nBy twisting the wrist of the left hand the breast of\\nthe bird is brought around to the front, and the feath-\\ners should be removed here first. If they\\nDry Pick- come easy they can be drawn anyhow, but if\\nhard then pull all feathers toward the tail or\\nup, and only a few at a time. Give the wrist of the\\nleft hand another twist and bring the back around.\\nRemove the tail feathers by pulling up and then\\nwork down the back to the neck. Now pull the feath-\\ners (carefully) from the butts of the wings and parts of\\nthe neck, then return to the fluff, after which let go\\nwith left hand and grasp a wing. Pull the short feath-\\ners and then the quills. In this hasty pulling we have\\nonly drawn the larger feathers and have very probably\\nleft a good many scattering ones, which can now be\\npufled more leisurely. About this time the bird will\\nbe going through its death struggles, and it can again\\nbe held as formerly, while the picking proceeds, and it\\nis now ready to be passed to the pin-featherers. If\\ndone as it should be it will take from one to two min-\\nutes to undress him. The pin-featherer is supposed to\\ncarefully sow up all torn places, if any. This method\\nmay seem cruel, but it is the only way to get the feath-\\ners off. After the bird has struggled the feathers can\\nnot be drawn without taking the flesh with them. The\\nmarket demands dry-picked chicks, so dry picked they\\nwill have to be. Personally we do not believe it is\\ncruel at all, for the moment the brain is touched (in\\nthe first stab) all feeling seems to leave the bird and\\nthe eyes will close. A fowl never shuts its eyes so long\\nas it retains its senses. Of course we do not know for", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 75\\na certainty, but that is the way it appears. As we state\\nabove the bird should be placed in the barrel of cold\\nwater immediately after picking. At noon these should\\nbe washed- the feet and mouth and placed in another\\nbarrel of clean water, in which they may remain over\\nnight. If the weather is warm ice should be added to\\nthe water. If the chicks are to be shipped to a distant\\nmarket early next morning and ice to be used then the\\nchicks need not be dried, lout if no ice is to be used the\\nchicks should be hung up an hour before packing to\\ndry.\\nPack in boxes that will hold not over 100 pounds\\neach. Place in a layer of clean straw and then a layer\\nof chickens. Fold the neck under one wing\\nPacking*. press the shoulders well up against the\\nstraw at sides of box. The chick should rest on the\\nbreast-bone with the legs straight out. Place in row\\nall around the box, then another row behind these,\\nshoving the shoulders well up to the tail of the first\\nrow, but let each chick come between two of the first\\nrow. If a small space should yet remain place in\\nenough chicks to fill it up, but lay these on their sides\\non top of the legs of the other chicks. A thin layer of\\nstraw can now be used, or the second layer of chicks\\nmay be placed directly on top of the first layer, and so\\non. Pack as tightly as possible so there will be no\\nmoving. Fill up remaining space, if any, with straw\\nand press on the cover. If ice is used keep the chicks\\nin place by nailing in narrow pieces of board, cut so as\\nto just fit inside the box, and place the ice (broken up\\nrather fine) in these, and be sure to have enough to last\\nuntil chicks arrive in market. The narrow slats will\\nkeep the chicks from moving as the ice melts. If bar-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "76 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nrels are used then fine ice will have to be worked in be-\\ntween the layers of chicks.\\nScalded chicks should be treated in this way also\\nafter they are dressed. In scalding two points should be\\nobserved first, have the chicks as fresh\\nChicks. killed as possible, and second, have the water\\njust below the boiling point. Ten or more\\nchicks can be hung in a row by the pot at one time.\\nOpen the mouth and stick as in dry picking, only use\\na larger blade, and run it down deeper, giving it a\\ntwist before removing, and cut the veins on both sides\\nas the knife is withdrawn. Thus the chick will die\\nmore quickly than when the knife is not twisted. In\\ndry picking the object is to retain life until the feathers\\nare removed but not so in scalding. It is a good plan\\nto grasp the chick the same as for dry picking, and\\nafter he is bleeding freely the feathers can be removed\\nfrom the legs. These feathers come easily, and if not\\nscalded retain their skin and color. In scalding take\\nthe chick by the feet and head and hold under the hot\\nwater about a minute. When the head is scalded it\\ngives the face and comb a whitish, sickly look. Have\\na bench or low table convenient, and tack thereon a\\nsoft cloth so as to prevent rubbing of the skin. Com-\\nmence at the wings, and after removing the large feath-\\ners the balance can be rubbed off with the hand. Take\\nthe chick by the legs, turn it on one side and remove\\nall the large feathers, and then by rubbing the hand\\nbriskly towards the chick s head all the remaining\\nfeathers will be removed, including nearly all the pin-\\nfeathers. It is surprising how quickly a chick can be\\ndressed by the rubbing process. Of course great care\\nshould be used so as not to rub the skin, but in fowls", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 77\\nyou can slash away without fear. The rubbed places\\nwill not turn dark so long as they remain in the water,\\nnor will they show very badly until they have been\\nremoved some hours. Scalded chicks are usually\\nplumped by being held for a minute or two in boil-\\ning water, and then thrown in cold water. The\\nplumping swells out all shrunken places especially\\naround the vent, and the cold water holds or fixes these\\nparts.\\nVery few markets require the chicks to be drawn.\\nThey should, therefore, be left whole and the feathers\\nleft on the head and an inch down the neck, it gives\\nthem a better appearance. Chickens are called broil-\\ners when they dress from 2 lbs. to 4 lbs. per pair.\\nEarly in the season 1-pound chicks sell best, and as the\\nseason advances the weight of the chicks should advance.\\nThe market opens for broilers about February and pays\\nfairly until July, w^hile the best prices are realized be-\\ntween April 15 and May 15. At that season New York\\nusually pays 50 cents to 55 cents per pound, wholesale,\\nand chicks may average 4 lbs. per pair, although 3)4\\nlbs. are better.\\nThe market for roasters commences about May\\nand runs the balance of the year. Roasters weigh from\\n5 lbs. to 8 lbs. per pair. The best weight is 6 lbs. or\\n7 lbs. per pair. Roasters reach 40 cents per pound in\\nthe heart of the season. Capons come in to market\\nabout January, and large ones sell for about 25 cents\\nper pound. In dressing capons do not remove feath-\\ners from the neck, end joint of wing and a small\\nspot on each thigh or fluff. There are a number of\\nraisers who claim that there is more money in roasters\\nand capons than in broilers, for, after the broiler age", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "78 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nlosses by death are rare. The writer believes that the\\nvast amount of food the chick consumes after passing\\nthe broiler age offsets the death rate, and then the ex-\\ntra room (buildings) and care should be added. Broil-\\ners give us quicker returns, and the man who is suc-\\ncessful in raising roasters must be successful in raising\\nbroilers. All we have to say is that those who prefer\\nto raise roasters or capons, why that is just what they\\nshould do.\\nThere is nothing like a reputation, and the poultry-\\nman who wishes to get a reputation must send only\\nchoice chicks and eggs to market. Eggs\\nuSitioif^^ s^^^^l^ clean and assorted as to size and\\ncolor. Chicks should be uniform in weight\\nand plumpness. Do not mix large and small, fat and\\npoor chicks together. If it is necessary to kill poor or\\nlarge chicks, why pack them in a box by themselves\\nand send the choice ones by themselves. In mixed\\nlots the price is cut heavily, and often the good chicks\\nbring no more than the poor ones. It is a good plan\\nto have a trade-mark and make it known by sending\\nonly choice goods under it. Leave it off of poor\\npackages.\\nOne of the best markets for choice chicks and eggs is\\nBoston, with New York a good second. Prices are\\nmuch higher in the East than in the West, but to bal-\\nance things grain is much higher in the East than in\\nthe West. Usually the best market is the one nearest\\nhome. If we live near any fair sized town then we can\\neasily work up a good trade without much trouble.\\nEvery one wants strictly fresh eggs and poultry. Have\\na card printed and state thereon your business, viz.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 79\\nRIVEESIDE POULTRY FARM.\\nJohn Jones, Prop.\\nFarm-raised chickens and fowls fed on\\ngood, sweet grain only. Freshest of eggs\\nfrom my own fowls, gathered and delivered\\ndaily. Your trade is respectfully solicited.\\nJohn Jones, Squeedunk, Pa.\\nCall at each house and see that the card gets into the\\nhands of the good woman, and if not successful call\\nagain. A few sales of good, fresh stock will usually\\nsecure the custom and prices can be under your own\\ncontrol, which ought to be higher than the regular\\nmarket price. Then, too, we can control the weight of\\nchicks. They are apt to shrink amazingly when the\\ncommission merchant gets them. Orders should be\\ntaken a day or two in advance. The chicks can be\\ndressed, sorted and tied (as ordered) and then weighed.\\nMark each order and put the weight down in a book\\nand drop them in a barrel of clean water, as stated\\npreviously, where they can remain over night and be\\nready to deliver next morning. Chicks thus treated will\\nnot shrink in weight, if anything they will gain a trifle,\\nbut, by weighing shortly after being killed and before\\nlying long in the water, no one will be cheated. We\\nhave no difficulty in getting from 6 to 10 cents per\\ndozen for eggs above New York prices, and the same\\nholds good with chickens to private well-to-do families\\nthe best of the season. We aim to double the whole-\\nsale price of live chicks. Of course we have a good\\nmarket, living close to the finest summer resorts on the\\nNew Jersey coast Asbury Park, Ocean Grove and sur-\\nrounding resorts.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII.\\nTHE TURKEY THE DUCK THE GOOSE.\\nTurkey raising is also very profitable, especially\\nwhere one is on a large farm. The turkey is largely\\nself-supporting, and although somewhat dif-\\nMai ke^f ficult to bring to the two months age, yet\\nvery hardy thereafter. The most profitable\\nbreed, and by far the most popular, is the Bronze. It\\nis the largest variety, grows very rapidly and is fine\\nflavored. If hatched reasonably early, it will outweigh\\nany other variety of the same age by several pounds.\\nIt costs no more to raise, and therefore is more profit-\\nable. Following them in popularity is the White\\nHolland and Mammoth Whites. These are more on\\nthe medium weight order, although the last named va-\\nriety is somewhat larger than the former. They are ex-\\ncellent varieties. The Narragansett is nearly the size\\nof the Bronze, but is little bred outside of Vermont.\\nOther varieties are the Slate, Buff and Black. Each\\nvariety has its admirers, and one should choose the\\nbreed he can take the most pride in. On every hand\\nwe see the common or scrub turkey. If, however,\\nthese common turkeys are crossed each year with some\\nof the larger varieties, then they will prove profitable.\\nWe believe in thorough-breds, even to cats and dogs\\nespecially dogs.\\nTurkeys are not easy to raise at the best, but when\\nprecautions are not taken then look out. In-breeding\\n(80)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 81\\nis worse with turkeys than with hens. Always procure\\nnew blood, in the shape of gobblers, each year. Lice,\\ndid we hear you say? Well, they will kill a young\\nturkey quicker than anything else.\\nImproper feeding is another cause for delicate turkeys.\\nCorn is usually fed ratlier lavishly to the hens during\\nwinter and early spring, and the old turkeys are apt to\\nbe very fat when they commence to lay, which is gen-\\nerally the last of March in New Jersey. Fat hens and\\nfertile, strong germed eggs do not go together worth a\\na cent. Toward spring the turkeys should be fed on a\\nregular egg ration, and have them in only fair flesh. If\\nit is not desired to hunt for eggs, then the turkeys\\nshould be confined in a large, shady yard until twelve\\no clock each day. Young turkeys do much better\\nif hatched by a turkey hen, although the first eggs\\nshould be set under common hens; and, as it gets later,\\nthen the turkey hen can be set. If the turkey hatches\\nlate, say about June 1, or later, then she will take all\\nthe care of the young and do better than if confined\\nand fed by hand. Let them run if grass and bugs are\\nplentiful, and don t feed except at night, but we have\\nraised many a turkey that never received a bit of food\\nexcept what nature provided. Thus treated, they will\\nusually outgrow the home ones. Sixteen to twenty eggs\\ncan be placed under a turkey hen, while nine or ten is\\nenough for a common hen.\\nIf it is desirable to set the turkey hens in their own\\nnests, then they can be allowed to steal them, only\\nthese nests should be shaped up, and after the turkey\\ncommences to set erect a temporary cover over her to\\nkeep off the rain. The first consideration then is lice.\\nBe sure to dust the hen thoroughlv with a good insect", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "82 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\npowder when commenciDg to set. Hold her up by the\\nlegs and work the powder down into the feathers with\\nthe hand. After ten days dust her again so as to kill\\nall the new hatches. A day before she is due to hatch\\nrepeat the operation. Be sure there are no lice, espec-\\nially on the head and between the flight feathers on\\nthe wings. Here is where lice delight to stay, w^hether\\nit is turkeys or hens.\\nAlways look out for lice, and when found, dust every\\nturkey, or if preferred, place a drop or two of lard or\\ncastor oil on the head, under the wings and around\\nthe vent. Repeat once a week. Do not use too much,\\nor it will hurt the turkey. If w^e w^ish to take care of\\nthe little fellows, then we should proceed as follows:\\nUse a roomy coop and have a board bottom. Have it\\na little smaller than coop, so the coop will just clear it\\nwhen set down. Each morning clean this off and resand\\nwith coarse sand if possible. The ground is usually\\ndamp during the early spring months, and dampness is\\nfatal to young turkeys, especially when cooped. Build a\\nlittle pen either of 12-inch boards, set up edgewise, or use\\n12-inch wire netting on frames, inch mesh. The tur-\\nkeys should be confined to the coop and pen for about\\nfive days, when the boards can be removed and only\\nused on damp days. After the seventh day open the\\ncoop on all clear days and let the hen and brood run,\\nbut be sure to get them back at night, and do not let\\nthem out until the dew is off the grass. Feed about\\nthe same as for chickens. Commence when the tur-\\nkeys are about twenty-four hours old. Rolled oat meal\\nfor the first two days, and then stale bread can be\\ngiven. A little chopped onion daily is also beneficial.\\nMilk is a good drink and milk curd is excellent. In\\nfact they should be fed the same as chickens. Feed", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 83\\nevery two hours for the first month. Always feed on\\na clean board and what they will eat up clean in about\\nten minutes. Do not keep feed before them all the\\ntime. It is worse than folly. What would we think\\nof the farmer who would keep corn and hay before\\nhis horses all the time? It would soon ruin them, and\\nit will do the same for poultry. Each morning care-\\nfully look the turkeys over, and if any look droopy,\\nexamine for lice, and at the same time give each ail-\\ning one a grain of whole black pepper. Keep a dish of\\ngrit and one of charcoal before them all the time, and\\nadd ground bone to the soft scalded feed after they are\\none week old. The feed may be scalded the same as\\nfor chickens, only give the milk curd once or twice a\\nday, at the morning and afternoon feeding time.\\nAs we stated above, we recommend the go-as-you-\\nplease plan when a turkey hen is used and the weather\\nis mild, or after June 1. We have had turkeys raised\\nthus without a particle of feed or care from us, and the\\nyoung toms have weighted twenty pounds and over by\\nThanksgiving. One first of October we had two hens\\ncome off with ten and eleven turkeys respectively.\\nWe left home the next day, and when we next saw the\\nturkeys they were over three weeks old and only one\\nmissing. At seven weeks old they were growing like\\nweeds.\\nNotwithstanding freezing weather at nights, the\\nturkeys stuck to their fence rail roost. They came\\nup every morning and evening for their feed of whole\\nwheat. We did not put them under cover until snow\\nfell. Late turkeys should never be used as breed-\\ners, but these little fellows will make royal eating after\\nthe holidays. In ordinary winter weather we allow the\\nturkeys to roost in the trees, but during stormy or very", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "84 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ncold weather we put them under cover. An old shed\\nmade tight on top and sides with building paper an-\\nswers the purpose. It should be roomy, and arranged\\nso it can be opened on the south side. Have wire net-\\nting across the opening so that during the day the front\\ncan be opened and yet keep the turkeys in if there is\\nsnow on the ground, or if it is stormy. Do not try to\\nkeep them housed closely. Keep them hardy but avoid\\nall draughts. A costly mistake is often made by people\\nselling all the large early-hatched birds because they\\nwill bring more, forgetting, apparently, that next year s\\nhatches depend on this year s stock. The best is none\\ntoo good, and avoid in-breeding as you would the roup.\\nTwo-year old hens mated with yearling toms will give\\nstronger chicks than will yearling hens, even if mated\\nwith two-year old toms. In fact turkeys three and four\\nyears old will give good results as breeders, but they\\nwill not lay as many eggs as yearling hens. One rea-\\nson for this is that old turkeys get fat more readily than\\nyoung ones, and fatness will decrease the number of\\neggs every time. Keep them in good, healthy condi-\\ntion, and in moderate flesh. Turkeys will not stand con-\\nfinement. They are an American bird, and as such\\nlove liberty. They dearly love the turnip patch and\\ncabbage patch, otherwise they will do little harm, and\\nthey will destroy an amazing lot of injurious insects\\nduring a season. It is the usual custom to have one\\ntom with seven hens, but if the tom is vigorous he will\\nmate with twelve hens. In fact that is the usual number\\nof turkey hens to a tom on our farm. We find the eggs\\nvery fertile with such mating.\\nWe do not claim that turkeys will always do the best\\nif allowed to take care of themselves. Many things\\nshould be taken into consideration, If hawks or other", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 85\\ndestroyers are about them we should be very watchful.\\nSuch practice will not do early in the season, and even\\nlater it is best to teach the hen and brood to come up\\nto the barn at night, thus gaining a good supper of\\nwhole wheat, and if not off too early, a breakfast of the\\nsame. It will hasten maturity. If we wish to hatch\\nearly (May), when cold storms threaten them, we will\\nhave to exercise great care, as given above.\\nLet us go over the ground again for these early\\nhatches. Have the coop roomy and dry with a board\\nfloor. Keep the floor well sanded, and build a small\\nyard in front of coop by standing up boards so the little\\nfellows can be confined for the first week. As the hen\\nhatches remove a part of the turks after they dry off,\\nand occasionally remove the shells, for they are apt to\\nslip over au unhatched egg and thus kill the chick. If\\nthe hen is wild or very cross it is best to leave her\\nseverely alone. After all are hatched and about\\ntwenty-four or thirty-six hours old, remove all to the\\ncoop and feed the hen first, then encourage the little\\nones to pick up small pieces of the hard-boiled Qgg\\ncrumbled for them, but only feed the Qgg clear the first\\nday; after that time feed it mixed thoroughly with\\ntwice the amount of bread crumbs, or feed as stated\\nabove. Discard the egg after the third day and give\\noatmeal and bread crumbs every two or three hours and\\nonly what they will eat up in about five minutes.\\nKeep the hen well fed with wheat, corn, etc. The\\nbread crusts can be soaked in milk and squeezed dry\\nbefore feeding. Give milk to drink, and if a saucer is\\nused place a heavy board partly over it to prevent suicide.\\nGive milk curd frequently, for it is excellent for them.\\nIf the weather is damp mix, once a day, a little pepper\\nin their food. When the turks reach the advanced age", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "bb PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nof one month, then cracked corn and whole wheat\\nshould be given at night; and as they grow the corn\\nand wheat especially wheat can be increased until it\\ncomposes their whole ration. After they reach a week\\nor two of age, then on pleasant days the turkey hen\\nmay be liberated, but at this time we should be careful\\nto let her roam only in the direction we wish her to go,\\nfor if taught this lesson at the start she will usually\\nfollow the same path during the remainder of the sea-\\nson. Before the turkeys become full-feathered we\\nshould keep our eye on the weather, and if a storm\\nthreatens, gather all in their coops, or prepare to bury\\nthe dead. Turkeys can not stand a wetting until they\\nare full feathered, when they can be trusted to look out\\nfor themselves. Keep everlastingly at the lice, for they\\nare more to be feared than all else combined. We can\\nnot raise a crop of lice and a crop of turkeys at the\\nsame time. Lice and dampness will cause a turkey\\nfamine sure.\\nSUCCESSFUL TURKEY RAISERS.\\nIn order to make this chapter more complete we have\\nsolicited articles from several successful turkey raisers\\nthroughout the country, believing that the reader will\\nappreciate such letters, for they tell just how these peo-\\nple manage their flocks successfully. We believe that\\nthis chapter, especially the letters, will prove invalua-\\nble to would-be turkey raisers.\\n[From Illinois.]\\nWe will give our experience last year raising with\\nchicken hens not that I think it best to use chicken\\nhens, but, of course, we often have to do so.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 87\\nOur first 25 poults were hatched the 22d of Ma}^ by\\nhens. We gave them to 2 hens in good coops witli a\\nboard in bottom. In front had a lath coop, into which\\nthe old hen could come out to exercise; around that\\nwas a pen a foot high, made of 4 12-inch boards about\\n10 feet long. The poults could run around in this.\\nTheir first feed was millet seed, then for about two\\nweeks fed them hard-boiled eggs mixed with dandelion\\nleaves cut fine with a knife or scissors, the\\nFirst Feed, whole seasoned with a little salt and pepper,\\nbread and milk and milk curd. Fed at first\\nthree times a day, but soon saw this was not often\\nenough, and fed them five times a day, the same as we\\ndo early chickens only fed them a little at once, just\\nwhat they ate in a few moments, and always left them\\nlooking for more. Kept coarse sand before them all\\nthe time, cleaned the floor of coop every day, usually\\nscrubbing it with cold water.\\nWhen they were one week old, removed the board\\npen and let them go where they liked. When two\\nweeks old, turned the old hen out, also, but kept her\\nshut up mornings till the grass was dry. The poults\\nwould not go far enough from the coop to get wet with-\\nout the hen. The ground, of course, was bare for a\\nshort distance around coop. When about two weeks\\nold, fed them but three times a day, a little later but\\ntwice a day. At about three weeks commenced the\\nfeeding of wheat screenings; this and curd was about\\nall I fed, but of course they often ate with the chick-\\nens, but didn t allow them to when I could help it.\\nWhen lice made an appearance, which was often\\nenough, I assure you, we dusted them with insect pow-\\nder, and even when quite large did the same\\nLice. or rubbed fresh lard along the wings. I did\\nnot use lard while they were small.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "88 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nAll 25 were alive, going in the trees to roost, and\\nall healthy, but one was killed and most all of the rest\\ntook cold. Some were so bad that I consented to have\\nthe hatchet used on five of them, although think\\nsome of them would have lived had we borne with\\nthem; so we raised 19, which wasn t bad, after all, but\\nwould like to have raised them all, not so much for\\nwhat they d have been worth as the satisfaction it\\nwould have been not to have lost one of that 25.\\nWe had trouble with our later ones taking cold, too.\\nAs to drinking water, some old turkey raisers told\\nus not to give any water, so we didn t give them much\\nat first but that s all nonsense. We let\\nWater them have water twice or three times a day,\\nbut when they were through drinking emp-\\ntied out what was left; didn t let them drink late in\\nthe evening. Don t know that there is anything in\\nthis, but we did it.\\nAll food was fresh and clean, all soft feed fed on a\\nclean board. Now, this looks like lots of trouble, but\\nit s just as easy to do a thing right as wrong, and takes\\nno more time. Who wouldn t be proud of a nice flock\\nof Mammoth Bronze turkeys, to say nothing of the\\ndollars they ll bring? Yours, for lots of turkeys.\\nMrs. B. F. H.\\nMilford, 111.\\n[Turkeys in Mississippi.]\\nI am well situated for raising turkeys, having splen-\\ndid range woods both front and back of house, with\\nRocky Spring branch running through. Set my\\nhens in a quiet, secluded place. When they hatch I\\nput them in a large coop out in front away from other", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 80\\nfowls. The first food is bread, or corn meal made up\\nwith buttermilk and soda, soaked in sweet milk (not\\nenough to make sloppy), yolk of hard boiled egg and\\nonion tops cut fine, all mixed together, put in the\\ncoop fresh three times a day, removing what is left\\nfrom former feeding. Have grit where they\\nGrit. can get it at all times bits of broken china-\\nware broken up fine. The second day the\\negg is left off. Feed bread, milk and onion tops, with\\nnow and then curd mixed in. If they are strongenough\\nto walk, let them out for a while in the warm sunshine.\\nIt seems to strengthen them. In cool, rainy weather\\nconfine the hen in the coop, letting the young pass in\\nand out. Give a sprinkle of black pepper in morning\\nfeed. In the evening when they come up, if there is a\\nsick or droopy one, give it a bit of cold boiled fat meat.\\nWhen they have free range they often eat poisonous\\nbugs and spiders. I gave fat meat in food once a\\nweek. (If I am not mistaken I got that suggestion\\nfrom the Epitomist long years ago. If the weather is\\ngood the third day I feed and turn them out. The hen\\nknows how far they can go. The older they get the\\nfurther they range. At noon I take my feed\\nNoon feed, pan, go hunt them up and feed out in the\\nwoods. They will soon learn to watch for\\none, so it is not hard to find them. They come running\\nand flying to meet me, so ravenous, eating the last bit\\nof onion first, then the bread. I could write a wiiole\\nchapter on that noon feeding in the woods; I enjoy it\\nas much as the turkeys. Hope some poor, tired-out\\nhousekeeper will take a hint. Think fresh buttermilk\\nbetter than sweet for every day feed. Give onion tops\\nas long as they last; the turkeys never tire of them.\\nLet them have free range and do pretty much as they", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "90 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nwant to; only make them come home to roost. When\\nthe weather grows hot and they show a disposition not\\nto go in their coop, I set a plank over a large low-\\nlimbed walnut tree for them to roost on. They are no\\nmore trouble; are off their roost and gone by the time\\nit is daybreak; come up about eight or nine o clock for\\nThoroiio h- their breakfast. Have always raised the com-\\nbreds pay mon turkey up to last year, when I bought a\\nbest. setting of Mammoth Bronze. Kept one of my\\nold-stock turkey hens to raise them. Out of nine eggs\\nraised eiglit turkeys. They are beauties. I expect to\\nraise a large flock this year, and make it profitable as\\nwell as a pleasure. I don t think my success is due to\\nmy management as much as to the natural advantages\\nof range. They go all over the neighborhood, if there\\nis a large flock, and in October and November they are\\nlike Bo Peep s sheep until I begin to thin them out\\nabout Thanksgiving. Mrs. L. 0.\\nKelly, Miss.\\n[From Pennsylvania.]\\nUse eggs from large, vigorous stock, gathered daily\\nand kept in a temperature of 50\u00c2\u00b0 and turned twice a\\nweek. Set the hen in a coop with lath or wire run,\\nusing 9 eggs for a common hen and 15 to 20 for turkey\\nhen. Have the nest roomy, using a box 8 or 12 inches\\ndeep. Place 2 inches of soft dirt in the bottom, and\\nafter shaping, put fine hay over it. Dust the hen with\\ninsect powder when setting her, and again before hatch-\\ning. Food Hard-boiled egg one part and bread crumbs\\nfour parts, with finely broken egg-shell, also oat meal\\nand onion tops. Bread, curd cheese, wheat and oat\\nmeal are main foods, with bone meal and grit. Place\\nthe coop on short grass, moving every few days.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n91\\nFeed\\nBoard.\\nFeed on clean board. For larger or half-\\ngrown turkeys feed on a board 9 inches wide,\\nhinged to the side of a building or on stakes\\nup out of the reach of small chickens Always feed on\\na flat surface and not in a V-shaped trough. Feed\\nonce adayon ground corn oats, shorts or bran adding\\none pint of ground meat and bone to two gallons of the\\nfeed, stirring to a stiff mixture with hot water. Keep\\ncoop, hen and poults well dusted, and in addition rub\\na trace of melted lard on the head and throat. Wash\\nthe fountains and give fresh water daily. Once a week\\ndisinfect them with carbolic acid. If other turkeys are\\nin the neighborhood, mark the turkeys with a punch\\nthrough the web of foot between the toes.\\nIf the weather is warm when the turkeys are hatched,\\nkeep them confined to run only a few days. After two\\nweeks give both the hen and turkeys liberty,\\nWea!ther^ feeding and shutting in coop at night. If it\\nis desired to have the young roost in a shed\\nor building, teach them to go there before the hen weans\\nthem. If a common hen is to be used to hatch the\\nturkey eggs, then a small coop can be used 22 inches\\ndeep, 31 inches wide, 16 inches high at back and 24\\ninches high in front, with an open lath pen 4 feet long\\nfor the young poults. N. B. C.\\nOliphant Furnace, Pa.\\n[Mr. C. finds this coop for young turkeys convenient\\nand safe. There is an 8xl0-inch window in the back for\\nlight, and a door (lath) in front for convenience of\\ncleaning. There is also a board bottom (movable) in\\ncoop. The run is\\nmade of lath so close\\ntogether at the bot-\\ntom that the young\\nturkeys can not get t -iJ^\\n^OM::^", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "92 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nthrough. These lath at the bottom can be made to\\nslide, so one or two may be removed if it is desirable\\nto let the turkeys out. The door in end is to let the\\nmother hen out or in. The top of run is also made of\\nlath. The turkeys can be fed in the run and not be\\ndisturbed by other chickens.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Ed.]\\n[Pepper for Turkeys.]\\nWhen I take young turks from the nest I give each\\na grain of black pepper. 1 feed some milk curd, with\\nplenty of ground black pepper and a few scraps of stale\\nlight bread, about five or six times a day, with plenty\\nof pure water.\\nI teach them to eat corn as soon as they are large\\nenough, but never feed corn meal. I watch for lice,\\nwhich I find on wings where large feathers start.\\nThat is why the wings droop. I grease with lard on\\nwings where lice are, but never on head or body. I\\ndon t allow my young turks to get wet. Last year I\\ndidn t lose a turk. I find no more trouble raising\\nthem than chickens. A Farmer s Wife.\\nLiberal, Mo.\\n[We have great faith in black pepper for very young\\nturkeys, especially during damp weather. Whenever\\na poult droops, give a grain of whole black pepper and\\nthen look for lice. In our grandmother s day the^\\nused to use black pepper for young turkeys. Ed.]\\nTHE DUCK.\\nThe domestic duck is believed to be descended from\\nthe wild Mallard. The American Standard gives the\\nnames of eight breeds and ten varieties. The most", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 93\\npopular breeds are the Pekin, Aylesbury, Rouen and\\nMuscovy.\\nReally there is only one popular variety, and that\\nthe Pekin. This is the breed used on all the great\\nduck ranches of the country. It is a very quick\\ngrower and has pure white or creamy white plumage.\\nAdult drakes should weigh eight pounds and ducks\\nseven pounds.\\nThe Aylesbur}^ is an English importation and resem-\\nbles the Pekin closely, excepting in color of feet and\\nbill, which should be a pale flesh color instead of a\\ndeep rich yellow as in the Pekin. It is also a pound\\nheavier.\\nThe Rouen is of the same standard weight as the\\nAylesbury, but has a rather dark, varied plumage. The\\ndarks, especially, are very beautiful.\\nThe Muscovys are heavier than any of the above.\\nThe standard weight for drakes is ten pounds and for\\nducks eight pounds. We have two varieties, the\\ncolored and white. When crossed with other breeds\\nthe offspring is a mule or barren.\\nDuck raising has become a leading industry in cer-\\ntain parts of the country.\\nLong Island, N. Y., raises and ships, probably,\\nmore ducklings annually than all other districts com-\\nbined. Incubator rooms with a capacity of from 4,000\\nto 10,000 eggs at one time are common on Long Island.\\nTons of ducklings find their way into New York mar-\\nkets each spring. Five hundred to twelve hundred\\nbreeders are kept especially for eggs, and thousands of\\ndollars is invested in the business. We have, really,\\nmore large duck farms than poultry farms, although\\nthe poultry farms are much more numerous, of course.\\nDucks delight in free access to water, although thou-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "94 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nsands of Pekins are raised with only enough water to\\ndrink and none to swim in. While this is a fact, jet\\nbetter results are usually obtained where the ducks\\nhave free access to water, especially during the breed-\\ning season. A duck will eat almost anything from a\\nshoe string to lath nails, but if good results are ex-\\npected good sound food, especially bulky food, should\\nbe given.\\nThe Pekin is a very timid bird, therefore great care\\nshould be exercised in handling.\\nThe duck house should be in two parts, one for feed-\\ning and one for roosting. No roosting poles are used,\\nof course, therefore the floor should be well\\nHoii^^^^^ littered with straw or anything dry. The\\nwater should be given in vessels so that the\\nbird can only dip its bill therein, or a swimming pond\\nwill soon be made around it. If a stream of water is\\nat hand, then the yards can run down to it and a por-\\ntion enclosed. A fence two feet high will confine them.\\nIf given their liberty they w^ill not require any food\\nfrom the ow^ner for six months of the year. Feed very\\nlittle hard food to ducks. They do not have\\nFood. a crop like a chicken, and hard food is not\\nreadily assimilated. Ducks can be allowed\\nto range at all seasons of the year except when snow is\\non the ground. They will commence to lay from Jan-\\nuary 1st to April 1st, according to the food and care.\\nIf early eggs are desired then they will have to be kept\\nreasonably warm and fed for eggs. Probably the aver-\\nage number of eggs laid per year by the Pekin is 100,\\nalthough 150 is occasionally reported. Ducks lay early\\nin the morning, seldom laying after eight o clock,\\nwhile the bulk of eggs are laid between five and seven", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 95\\no clock. Six eggs per week can usually be expected,\\nalthough frequently they will lay 100 eggs in 110 days.\\nDuring the fall and winter the food may consist of\\ncorn meal, wheat bran and boiled vegetables half the\\nquantity should be vegetables. Scald this before feed-\\ning by mixing in the corn and bran while the potatoes\\nare hot. Do not have it sloppy. As the birds near\\nthe laying period, meat in some form should be added,\\nsay from ten to twenty per cent. Grit is also very nec-\\nessary, and green food should not be omitted during\\nthe laying season. Birds that have their liberty may\\nbe allowed to gather their own green food, but do not\\nomit the meat during the laying season, but if the pick-\\ning is fairly good they should not be fed so liberally as\\nwhen confined. Never feed more than is eaten up\\nquickly.\\nThe incubator is operated about the same with duck\\neggs as with hen eggs. One hundred and three\\nThe degrees is the proper temperature, but let\\nArtificial the tendency be rather under that degree than\\nMethod. over it. They require a little more air than\\nhen eggs in order to dry them down sufficiently, for the\\nshell is thick and tough. The air space should be larger\\nat the seventeenth day than in a hen s egg, but when\\nthey commence to pip, then they should receive a little\\nmore moisture. Test the eggs on the fourth and fif-\\nteenth days, and be sure to have the thermometer be-\\ntween two fertile eggs, as stated elsewhere. It is more\\nimportant to remove the addled eggs at the last test\\nthan if hen eggs are used, for they are apt to explode\\nand bring dire calamity to the machine and attendant.\\nThey require a week longer to incubate than hen\\neggs, and the young duck will break the shell thirty-\\naix to forty-eight hours before they get ready to come", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "96 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nout. A chick that can not get out of its shell alone\\nwill rarely amount to anything, but the duck seems to\\nthrive as well when helped out as when he is able to\\nget out himself. To help the duckling out, take off\\nthe top part of shell and he can be dumped out of the\\nrest, but should he bleed leave him alone until he has\\nabsorbed all the blood. Never try to help him out un-\\nless you are sure he can not get out himself.\\nDucks require the same degree of heat as do chicks.\\nStart the brooders as given for chicks, and reduce it to\\n90\u00c2\u00b0 at the end of the first week, 87\u00c2\u00b0 at the\\nperatuiT second week, and 80\u00c2\u00b0 to 85\u00c2\u00b0 at the\\nend of the third week. After the end of the\\nsixthweektheyareusually putintoa cold house. This\\ncan be built the same as a long brooder house without\\nheat. They do not require heat after they are feathered\\nout on the breast, unless it is cold weather, when a\\nlittle heat is beneficial.\\nFeed about the same as for chicks, only let there be\\nmore bulk, such as potatoes, cut clover, and, as they\\nget older, feed cut green corn at noon.\\nThe Feed. The first feed first three days may be\\none part hard boiled eggs (infertile eggs)\\nand three parts bread crumbs, and after that equal\\nparts wheat bran, corn meal and boiled potatoes, with\\na little ground meat or scraps added. This food should\\nbe softer (at first) than for cliicks, and the water\\nshould be handy, so that the duckling can take a little\\nwith each mouthful. It is very interesting to see ducks\\neat. They do not swallow like anything else we have\\never seen. They seem to get it down by giving a num-\\nber of spasmodic jerks. If water is not handy, they\\nw^ill often choke, and then they are apt to get the nos-\\ntrils clogged unless they have plenty of water to wash", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 97\\nthe bill in, but under no circumstance should they be\\nallowed water to swim in until they are feathered, at\\nleast on the breast.\\nA good drinking fountain for young ducks is made\\nby taking a gallon paint can well cleaned out. Punch\\na few holes with a nail half an inch up from the top or\\nopen end. Fill it w4th water and place over the open-\\ning an earthen flower saucer and quickly invert. The\\nsaucer should be about an inch larger in diameter than\\nthe can, thus the ducks will have half an inch of water\\nonly to muss in, and you will find this quite\\nenough. Never give milk to ducklings, for they have\\na knack of sticking themselves all up with it. Eather\\nmix it in with the feed in place of water. The feed\\nshould be scalded of course. Never feed corn meal ex-\\nclusively to ducklings, for it is apt to cripple them in\\ntheir legs and feet. Ducklings are much easier to raise\\nthan chicks and the eggs are more fertile, thus hatch-\\ning a larger per cent. Early in the season the eggs,\\nhowever, are not very fertile, especially the first few\\neggs laid. As the season progresses the eggs seem to\\nbecome more fertile, and good results are assured. Of\\ncourse we have had (in the above) the Pekin duck in\\nmind, for this breed seems to be peculiarly adapted to\\nthe forcing process used on all broiler or duck farms.\\nThe ducklings are marketed when about nine weeks\\nold, when they do, and should, dress from 8 to 10\\npounds per pair. The time to dress duck-\\nMarketing-, -^j^gg .g ^Yiey are partlv feathered out.\\nDo not let the second crop of feathers start, for it will\\nnot only cause delay in dressing, but also reduce them\\nin flesh. All large ranches have their dressers. The\\nprice paid is 5 cents per duck, and forty ducks are\\ncounted a day s work. They are dry picked.\\n7", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "98 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nThe pens should be kept heavily littered with straw\\nor, better, salt hay, for it is fine and soft. Ducks are\\nvery dirty things, or, rather, they have the\\nHouses knack of making things in general dirty\\nthemselves included therefore their pens, as\\nwell as the brooders, should be frequently cleaned out.\\nA brooder house for ducks is built the same as for\\nchicks pens included only the fences need not be\\nover a foot high for young ones and two feet high for\\nold ones. Ducks are enormous eaters. They are al-\\nways on the lookout for something to eat. Fill them\\nup, and in half an hour they will appear as hungry as\\never. If it wasn t for their astonishingly rapid growth\\nthey would soon eat their heads off, but as it is they\\nwill return a good profit on feed consumed.\\nMr. P. H. Jacobs, editor of the Poultry Keeper, once\\nmade an experiment to show the relative dif-\\niiientf^^^^ ference in growth between chicks and duck-\\nlings. Here is the result:\\nDUCKLINGS. CHICKS.\\nLbs. Ozs. Lbs. Ozs.\\nOne week old 4 2\\nTwo weeks old 9 4\\nThree weeks old 1 6\\nFour weeks old 1 9 10\\nFive weeks old 2 2 14\\nSixweeksold 2 11 1 23^\\nSeven weeks old 3 5 1 1}4\\nEight weeks old 4 1 12\\nNine weeks old 4 8 2\\nAs they approach maturity (after the eighth week)\\nthe ratio of gain begins to become proportionately less,\\nwhile some were heavier than others. The ducks were\\nkept in a small coop, and fed to demonstrate the high-\\nest point they could be made to attain; the purest Pekins\\nbeing used for the experiment.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 99\\nIf the old stock is kept in confinement then five ducks\\nto one drake is usually allowed, and twenty-five to\\nthirty ducks can be kept in one pen. If given\\nBreeding their liberty six or seven ducks to one drake\\nwill answ^er. Ducks are not as susceptible\\nto in-breeding as hens, providing only the strongest\\nand best specimens are used. If the flock is small then\\nnew drakes should be procured occasionall}^ Unlike\\nhens, ducks are good breeders and layers until six or\\neight years old. Probably two and three-year-old ducks\\nmake the best breeders. Ducks frequently lay in the\\nfall, thus surpassing the hen in productiveness. Ducks\\nstand confinement very well. They do not stand much,\\nthough, for inactivity does not agree with Mr. Duck.\\nHe is always on the go; even at night he wnll be up\\nand doing. Ducks do not scratch nor wander far from\\nhome. Nowadays (in Pekins) the keel duck is all the\\nfashion. We often see show specimens with as deep a\\nkeel (breast bone) as the goose. While the standard\\nweight is eight pounds for a drake yet they often reach\\nten to eleven pounds. The deep keel adds largely to\\nthe weight. The feathers of the Pekin command nearly\\nas high price as do geese feathers, thus adding some-\\nwhat to the income. In fact these feathers are often\\nsold for geese feathers. While running water is best\\nfor old ducks, especially during the breeding season\\n(some raisers do not use any water except for drinking\\npurposes), ducklings should never be allowed this\\nprivilege. Ducks make good incubators but poor moth-\\ners. Always set duck eggs under hens, and by follow-\\ning the above directions success can be had by those\\nwho wash to raise only a few each year. When run-\\nning at liberty they are apt to pick up injurious insects", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "100 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nand die from the effect. Rose bugs are usually fatal to\\nyoung ducks.\\nThe great duck-raising district of the United States,\\nas we stated before, is Long Island, N. Y. The vil-\\nlages most noted in this line are Eastport,\\nD^sMcts Speonk, East Moriches, West Hampton and\\na few others in their vicinity. The output\\nof ducklings for the season of 95 was nearly one mil-\\nlion, and nearly half a million duck eggs were sold for\\neating or hatching, besides the immense quantity used\\nfor hatching purposes at home. Probably the banner\\ntown is Eastport. It is but a small town, and about\\neight out of every ten of its inhabitants raise ducks for\\na living. Over 150,000 ducklings were shipped from\\nthere during the past season. The statement is made\\nthat the towns of Speonk, Eastport, Westhampton and\\nCentral Moriches, all of which are near each other,\\nshipped 900,000 pounds of ducklings to market during\\nthe past season.\\nTHE GOOSE.\\nThe standard gives us six breeds, viz.: Toulouse,\\ngray; Embden, white; African, gray; Chinese, brown\\nand white; Wild, gray, and Egyptian, colored. The\\nstandard weight for the two most popular breeds is\\nToulouse, 20 pounds for gander or goose; Embden, 20\\npounds for gander and 18 pounds for goose.\\nThere are more geese raised in the West than in the\\nEast. Probably Rhode Island takes the lead in the East.\\nThe China is considered the best layer and the Emb-\\nden best for feathers, as they are large and pure white.\\nA cross of the Toulouse gander and Embden goose\\nmakes an excellent young goose for market. Geese", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE. 101\\nderive most of their food from the water and pasture\\nfields. They pasture much the same as cows. They\\ncan be kept in confinement if supplied with grass, veg-\\netables and a little grain. They should be fed much\\nthe same as ducks. The goose usually lays between 20\\nand 40 eggs, and make good mothers.\\nDuring the winter they should be cared for about the\\nsame as ducks. Cooked vegetables and bran, together\\nwith clover hay, and a little corn during cold weather,\\nwill pull them through in good shape. They fatten\\nreadily, and care should be exercised as they near the\\nlaying period (March or April) so as not to have them\\nover fat. As spring approaches and pasture begins to\\npick up, very little need be fed, but at night give them\\na feed of boiled vegetables, bran and a little meat. If\\nconfined, then feed the mash in the morning and\\nwheat, oats, barley and corn at night, alternately.\\nGive sharp sand and grit, and plenty of fresh water.\\nThe first eggs can be set under hens. Put a sod in\\nthe bottom of the nest and fill in with a little loose dirt,\\nshape up a little and cover an inch with cut\\nHatcliing-. straw. Five to eight egg3 are enough for a\\nhen. If it is desirable to make the goose lay\\na second litter she can be confined away from the nest\\nwhen she shows signs of wanting to set. A few days\\nwill break her up usually. It takes about 30 days\\nto hatch geese eggs. Geese usually lay every other\\nday. Sometimes they lay at night and sometimes\\nduring the day. It is just as well to bring the goslings\\nup by hand, especially if the weather is moderately\\nwarm. They can be kept in a soap box in the kitchen\\nat night and allowed to run in a pen during the day.\\nThe pen should be moved to fresh grass every day so\\nthey can pasture. If possible sow some wheat, oats or", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "102 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nrye, and pasture them on that; they will do better so\\ntreated. For the first few days feed them on chopped\\nboiled eggs mixed with stale bread, and finely chopped\\ngrass or cabbage. Nettles, if procurable, make the\\nbest of green food. They seem to be peculiarly adapted\\nto young goslings. They should be chopped up fine.\\nAfter the fourth day feed about the same as ducks. A\\nmash of vegetables, bran, cornmeal and grass, or any-\\nthing green, makes a good feed. They should be fed\\nfour or five times a day.\\nAlways have separate houses for ducks and geese.\\nKeep the floor well littered with straw or leaves and do\\nnot let it become filthy. They must have clean quar-\\nters to sleep in, especially during cold weather. During\\nmild or warm weather they may be allowed to sleep\\nanywhere they choose out of doors, except during the\\nlaying period and then they should be guarded so\\nas to get the eggs.\\nG-eese feathers are quite valuable. Indeed, many\\npersons raise geese especially for this purpose. Geese\\nshould be picked about once in two months\\nFeathers, during the late spring, summer and early\\nfall. It is not a cruel practice, for otherwise\\nthey will pick themselves and the feathers are thus\\nlost. They should be picked when ripe, i. e., when no\\nblood is in the end of the quill. Never pick geese\\nfeathers when there is danger of drawing blood.\\nIn picking it is necessary to protect the operator s\\nperson by drawing a stocking over the goose s head\\nand down the neck. Also secure the wings by hold-\\ning or tying them.\\nMany a small boy can testify to the biting or strik-\\ning with the wings power of the goose. We have\\ncarried black and blue marks more than once from", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 103\\ncoming into contact with their wings. Children should\\nnever be allowed to go near geese during breeding time.\\nPicking geese too frequently or at improper times is\\nextremely cruel, and any person who is cruel enough\\nto do such a thing ought to have his hair pulled out\\nso as to realize how it feels.\\nThe picking should be done in a close room, for\\nevery little puff of wind will send the feathers flying.\\nRemove only the smaller feathers. The larger ones\\nshould be left on, excepting five or six under each\\nwing; this will keep the wing from drooping. The\\ndown should be removed only during very warm\\nweather. The number of times during a season that a\\ngoose can be picked will depend on the climate, but for\\nthe North three times will be about all. Only pick\\nwhen the feather is clear and not filled with bloody\\nmatter. About one pound of feathers will be obtained\\nfrom the three pickings per goose, and these will sell\\nat from 50 to 70 cents. When the goslings are about\\nnine weeks old they can be picked. At the first pick-\\ning all the feathers on the back and shoulders, and the\\nlarger one on the hips should be left. In about six or\\nseven weeks they should be picked again and more\\nfreely. If we raise them for market, probably it would\\nbe best to pick only once, and that when they are from\\nthree to four months old.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VIII.\\nDISEASES OF POULTRY.\\nPoultry is subject to quite a number of diseases,\\nmainly produced by lice, which sap the vitality, and\\nimproper feeding and housing. In the fall and winter\\nseason, colds, due to exposure, or more commonly\\ndraughts, are frequent, and these soon turn to roup or\\nother diseases. We will take up the various diseases\\nas they are suggested to us. In suggesting remedies\\nwe have drawn somewhat from various works on the\\nsubject, paying particular attention to simplicity of\\ntreatment.\\nDr. Sanborn, in Farm Poultry, describes it as fol-\\nlows The word roup is probably derived from croup,\\nan inflammatory disease of the larynx, and\\nRoup. trachea in the human biped. Roup is a pur-\\nulent catarrhal affection of the air passages.\\nIt is not a difficult thing for cold to degenerate into\\nroup, and it is one of the worst enemies that fowls are\\nheir to.\\nMany seemingly trifling things or conditions may\\nproduce roup, viz.: Draughts, impure, close air, damp,\\nunclean houses, small cracks in walls near roost poles,\\nimproper food, filthy water, stagnant water, any form\\nof improper handling which tends to lower the vitality,\\nthus causing the body to be susceptible to disease\\noverfeeding or underfeeding, or a leaky, damp house.\\nRoup is a very contagious disease, and a bird that once\\n(104)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 105\\nhas it in a bad form will never wholly recover, and al-\\nthough apparently well, yet the offspring will be very\\nsusceptible to it. We have seen flocks of two to three\\nhundred fowls completely prostrated. One flock seemed\\nto recover as spring opened, only to take it again the\\nfollowing fall. The only sure remedy is the ax, and\\nthis should be applied just as soon as we are sure of the\\ndisease. As soon as a bird shows any symptoms of dis-\\nease it should be separated from the flock and given a\\nclean, dry house by itself.\\nSymptoms. Roup commences with a catarrhal in-\\nflammation of the mucous membranes of the eyes\\nand nostrils. The discharge is at first thin; as the\\ndisease progresses respiration becomes difficult, due\\nto a clogging of the nostrils and throat. A closed\\neye may not be roup but simply due to the fowl\\nroosting near a crack or nail hole in side of house.\\nThe best plan is to cover the outside and inside of roost\\nwith tarred paper and close up all ventilators in freez-\\ning weather.\\nThe most dangerous form commences by a swelling\\nof the head and a strong-smelling breath. If not\\ntreated the fowl will die in from six to twelve days. A\\nmild case of cold more properly catarrh will run\\nalong for several weeks, but with mild treatment and\\nproper food can be cured in a few days.\\nTreatment. First remove all causes of colds, such\\nas cracks, overhead ventilators, dampness, etc. If\\nthe fowls sneeze and shake their heads it is best\\nto commence at once and add spongia to the drinking\\nwater (we are inclined to the homeopathic remedies\\nfor all diseases of poultry), say 25 to 40 drops of the\\ntincture to a pailful. Continue this treatment until", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "106 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ncured. Should one or more birds seem to be worse than\\nthe majority remove them to separate quarters.\\nDr. Woods gives an excellent roup mixture, as fol-\\nlows: Tincture of aconite, ten drops; tincture of spongia,\\nten drops; alcohol enough to make one ounce. Put a\\nteaspoonful of this in a quart of drinking water daily.\\nShould the head swell and cheesy matter form in the\\nroof of the mouth, with strong breath, then the bird\\nwill have to be bandied. The kerosene remedy is a\\ngood one. Take a quart can and fill it with the oil.\\nTake the bird by the feet and neck and plunge the head\\nin the oil; hold it there a moment and withdraw; im-\\nmediately wipe the head dry with a soft cloth to pre-\\nvent the feathers coming out. For sore eyes we use a\\nsimple eye wash twice a day and bathe the head with\\nglycerine or carbolated vaseline. At the same time ad-\\nminister a small liver pill until the bowels are moving\\nfreely. Feed the birds on bread and milk. Mr. A. F.\\nHunter, editor of Farm Poultry recommends the follow-\\ning mixture for colds and roup: A tablespoonful of\\nclear lard, half a tablespoonful each of ginger, cayenne\\npepper and mustard; mix well together and then add\\nflour until the whole has the consistency of dough; roll\\ninto slugs about the size of the top joint of the little\\nfinger, and put one down the patient s throat. The\\ndose can be repeated in twelve or twenty-four hours,\\naccording as the case seems to need it. For swelled\\nhead we bathe with a glycerine-turpentine lotion made\\nof one part spirits of turpentine to six parts glycerine;\\nand for sneezing colds and swelled heads combined, use\\nboth remedies. If the patient does not show signs of\\nimprovement within three days after beginning treat-\\nment, take off its head and bury or burn it. Mr. P.\\nH. Jacobs says: Dissolve a teaspoonful of chloride", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 107\\nof lime in a pint of water and give the bird a teaspoon-\\nful of the solution. Burn tar and turpentine in the\\nhouse after the fowls have gone to roost. A cold can\\nbe easily cured, but if not taken in hand soon then the\\nbest remedy is the ax, as we stated before.\\nIf the fowls show signs of colds wash the drinking\\nvessels thoroughly each morning with hot water to\\nwhich a little carbolic acid has been added. Nearly all\\ndiseases are transmitted through the drinking water.\\nRoup is not necessarily contagious of itself, but the\\ngerms are transmitted through the drinking vessel;\\nthus it is wise to separate all sick birds.\\nThe much-dreaded disease, cholera, is happily very\\nrare. It affects the mucous surfaces and is always ac-\\ncompanied by diarrhea. Cholera soon runs\\nCholera. its course and the victim usually dies in from\\neight to forty-eight hours from the time of\\ncontracting it. It is seldom seen here in the true Asi-\\natic type, but nevertheless it is severe enough as it is.\\nIt is seen usually during warm and damp weather, es-\\npecially if the surrounding conditions are filthy. Chol-\\nera never enters a flock that is properly housed and fed\\nand everything clean and sweet, especially the drink-\\ning water, unless brought by carelessness, like intro-\\nducing an affected bird, or even brought home from a\\nneighbor s by a dropping adhering to the foot and thus\\ngetting into the feed or water. There is no breed that\\nis proof against cholera. Age is not proof against its\\nravages, but young, growing stock will not contract it\\nas readily as older. Freezing weather puts a stop to\\nits ravages, at least for a [time. When first attacked\\nthe bird seems mopish, picks out warm corners to sit\\nin the feathers are ruffled, the wings droop. The\\nfeathers round the vent are stuck together, due to a di-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "108 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\narrhea discharge. The feet seem to drag when walk-\\ning and the eyelids close. The bird has no appetite,\\nbut a feverish desire for water. The discharge at first\\nis slightly thick and soon becomes watery and frothy,\\nand later on is slightly bloody. The mucous mem-\\nbranes of the body become inflamed and a frothy dis-\\ncharge comes from the nostrils, eyes and mouth. The\\ncomb turns to a dark or purplish color.\\nTreatment. As the disease is so rapid and severe,\\nwe will have to be ever on the alert and immediately\\nremove every bird that sliows signs of diarrhea to sep-\\narate quarters. Give the entire premises a thorough\\ncleaning, especially the drinking vessels. Fill in all\\nlow places where water does or may stand. AVhitewash\\nall buildings thoroughly inside and sprinkle air-slaked\\nlime freely inside and outside of roost. Sprinkle a lit-\\ntle over the birds at night, also. Dr. Sanborn recom-\\nmends this mixture in the drinking water for the dis-\\neased birds Water, one quart spirits of camphor,\\none-half teaspoonful sulpho-carbolate of zinc, one-\\nfourth ounce. Give the apparently well birds for\\ndrink Water, one quart sulpho-carbolate of zinc,\\none-eighth ounce. If there is violent diarrhea, give\\nevery two hours a tablet or pill of Dover s powder (one\\ngrain each). This will relieve some of the pain, and\\nlessen the number of discharges. A diet of meat juice\\nis best for a cholera case.\\nA homeopathic remedy is arsenicum iodatum, or ar-\\nsenicum, 6, in the drinking water. In cleaning the\\nroost about six inches of the earth should be removed\\nand this space filled in with fresh, clean sand. It is\\nnot wise to keep yards so crowded that grass or weeds\\ncan not grow. If the yards are not in grass, then once\\na year they should be spaded up and rye or crimson", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 109\\nclover should be sowed. This will purify the ground.\\nPoultry should never be kept on low, damp soil. A\\nhigh and rather sandy soil is preferred.\\nIndigestion, or dyspepsia, is often taken for cholera.\\nIt is usually produced by overfeeding and poor hous-\\ning. Nature s method is a little at a time\\nIndig-estion. and often, until by night the crop is, or\\nshould be, full. Man s method is, usually,\\nto fill up the crop in the morning and keep it full; this\\nis the main cause for indigestion. Improper food is\\nanother cause, especially lack of grit or green food.\\nChicks, as well as grown fowls, suffer from this, there-\\nfore care in feeding and housing should be exercised.\\nIn this condition the bird wnll seem droopy, and con-\\nstipation may result or a hardening of the crop.\\nTreatment. Proper housing and care, with an ab-\\nsence of food for a day or two. Supply grit and broken\\ncharcoal, then feed often and sparingly, with plenty of\\noutdoor exercise. Two teaspoonfuls of sulphate mag-\\nnesia in a quart of drinking water is a good tonic for\\na week or two. A teaspoonful of fenugreek in soft\\nfood for every ten hens is also good.\\nThis is usually seen in the fall of the year in young,\\ngrowing stock. Damp w^eather seems to suit it. The\\nsores or ulcers usually appear on the head,\\nDox^ underside of wings. If the inflam-\\nmation extends to the eyes it may result in\\nthe loss of one or both.\\nTreatment. Carbolated vaseline is excellent to ap-\\nply twice a day to the sores. Feed a mash rich in meat\\nand green stuff. House securely, especially on damp\\ndays.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "110 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nA too heavy ration of meat will bring on\\nDysentery, diarrhea. If diarrhea is neglected it will\\nrun into dysentery. The discharge is watery\\nand streaked with blood.\\nTreatment. Keep the water dishes clean and give ten\\ngrains of sulphate of magnesia, followed in three hours\\nby five grains Dover s powder. If not checked give two\\ngrains Dover s powder morning and night.\\nDiseases of the liver are caused by over-\\nLiver feeding, especially of fat-producing foods,\\nsuch as corn, etc., or by feeding too much\\nstimulating food or spices.\\nCongestion. This is the first step leading to inflam-\\nmation. It is caused by the obstruction of the free\\ncirculation of the blood due to diseased crop, gizzard or\\nbowels.\\nSymptoms. A watery diarrhea, from brownish to\\nyellow in color; rough plumage. The comb turns from\\na purple to almost black in color. The bird cares little\\nfor food or exercise.\\nTreatment. A teaspoonful of castor oil once a day,\\nand a diet of cut-clover hay, sprinkled with wheat mid-\\ndlings. If this condition is not soon checked it will pass\\non to\\nInflammation, which is usually fatal, and little can\\nbe done for the patient.\\nSymptoms. Diarrhea of a yellowish color, poor ap-\\npetite and increasing thirst. Breathing is slow and\\nhard, while the bird gradually wastes away.\\nTreatment. put a teaspoonful of tincture nux-\\nvomica in a pint of drinking water. Feed as given\\nabove. Castor oil, as given above, may prove benefi-\\ncial.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "PllACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. Ill\\nEnlargement. The too liberal feeding of fattening\\nfoods, with little exercise, is the main factor in this dis-\\nease. Old fowls are more susceptible to it than young\\nfowls, because they lay on fat more readily.\\nSymptoms. General sluggishness. The fowl pre-\\nferring to sit on the ground and later refusing to go on\\nthe roost at night.\\nTreatment. Feed as before stated. For drink, put\\none-half teaspoonful of powdered muriate of ammonia\\nin a pint of water. Feed sparingly and reduce fat.\\nProbably we would better consider these two diseases\\nhere, as they are more or less caused by improper food.\\nCoiistipa- Constipation is not very common and is usu-\\ntioii and ally caused by lack of green and bulky food.\\nDiarrhea. Increase the amount of bran in the feed and\\nsupply green food, and give clover hay chaff (loose\\nparts) on the floor of pen. Diarrhea in brooder chicks\\nis usually caused by too low a temperature, thus giv-\\ning the chicks colds on the bow^els. Be sure the heat\\nis right first. If the chicks spread out and seem to be\\ncontented at night, then all is right. If they crowd and\\ncry, then look out for deaths in the morning. Remem-\\nber that the proper degree of heat is of more importance\\nthan the food. Diarrhea is also caused by feeding too\\nmuch bran or coarse and half -cooked food in the mash.\\nA sudden change in the weather may cause catarrh of\\nthe bowels. If the food is all right then it must come\\nfrom colds due to lack of heat or draughts. Keep the\\nchicks dry and warm. Add a handful of linseed meal\\nto, say, six quarts of the feed and put a tablespoonful\\nof tincture of iron to each quart of the drinking water.\\nDo not feed sour milk to very young chicks, and leave\\nplenty of grit handy. The best way to feed milk is to\\nboil it and add one-fourth water. Milk is one of the", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "112 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nbest foods that can be used, but care should be exer-\\ncised in cleaning the drinking vessels. They should be\\nwashed out in cold water and then scalded every day.\\nDiphtheria is not only dangerous, but can be trans-\\nmitted direct from one bird to another. Canker is a\\nDiphtheria form of diphtheria. It is a cold-weather\\nand disease, not necessarily contracted by filthy\\nCanker. q^. Jamp housing.\\nSymptoms. The feathers are ruffled and the bird\\nseems to be sleep\\\\^ and showing signs of catarrh. The\\nneck seems to be stiff. Soon there is a slight discharge\\nfrom the nostrils, and more or less of a sticky sub-\\nstance from the mouth. The mouth will be found to\\ncontain this sticky or stringy substance, especially well\\nback towards the throat. This substance soon becomes\\nthicker and vile smelling. The back of the mouth\\nand throat first becomes red and then purple. The\\nmembrane finally runs together, thus closing the open-\\ning of the larynx, thus suffocating the bird. This dis-\\nease usually runs from six to twenty days.\\nTreatment. The bird should be moved to a room\\nthat can be kept warm night and day and the atmos-\\nphere kept moist by boiling water. Keep the discharge\\nwiped off of the mouth and throat, and with a quill\\nblow sulphide of calcium, in powdered form, over the\\nmucous membrane three or four times a day. If the\\nbird is able to swallow, put a grain of calcium sulphide\\nin a little warm mash and give before each application\\nof the powder to the throat.\\nCanker is a mild form of diphtheria. The bird\\nseems to be dumpish and has a desire to swallow, even\\nwhen not eating. The best thing to do is to blow, with\\na quill, finely pulverized chlorate of potash on the sore\\nplaces in the mouth.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 113\\nInflammation of the Oviduct. Old hens are more\\nsubjected to this disorder than pullets, for the simple\\nreason that they lay on fat more readily than\\nOvfduct pullets, and this is the main cause, together\\nwith the over-feeding of spices, etc. This\\ndisease usually follows the egg-bound condition.\\nSymptoms. The bird suffers greatly while in this\\ncondition, and there is at first a violent straining,\\nwhich gradually subsides as exhaustion follows, with\\ndeath not far off. The vent is hot, but as the disease\\nprogresses the fever gradually runs down. The wings\\ndroop and feathers are ruffled or puffed out.\\nTreatment. Act quickly with this disease and give\\none-half teaspoonful sulphate magnesia in a table-\\nspoonful of water. Examine the egg passage with an\\noiled finger and remove all foreign substance, such as\\nan egg shell, etc. Keep the bowels well opened with\\nthe magnesia or castor oil and feed on a soft mash.\\nThis disease, like inflammation, is caused by over-\\nfeeding on fattening foods, thus crowding the internal\\norgans by the accumulation of useless fat.\\nBound liver is usually enlarged and the whole\\nmuscular system weakened by fatty degener-\\nation. Thus the muscles are not only weakened, but\\nquite easily ruptured.\\nThe muscles around the egg passage (oviduct) are\\nlikewise weakened, and when an extra large egg is pass-\\ning or fright causes an extra pressure upon the muscles,\\nthe passage may be torn open and the egg passes into\\nthe abdominal cavity, and death follows. Hens found\\ndead on the nest are killed by this same fatty degener-\\nation. The strain caused by laying is too much for the\\n8", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "114 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nweakened heart. Misshaped eggs, soft-shelled eggs or\\nextra large eggs all point to too much fat.\\nSymptoms. The bird goes around with tail depressed\\nand occasionally going to the nest as if to lay. She\\nwill be found straining and with an oiled finger we can\\nsometimes feel the hard substance within the vent.\\nTreatment. Dip the finger in castor oil and anoint\\nwell the inside of vent. If the egg can be felt it should\\nbe broken and the pieces removed, after which give a\\nteaspoonful of linseed meal mixed with bread. Little\\ncan be done in this case, as the cause is overfatness.\\nFeed sparingly on a mash of cut clover bran and mid-\\ndlings until hen is reduced in flesh. Plenty of exer-\\ncise, scratching, after recovery, is necessary.\\nLeg weakness is especially prevalent in brooder\\nchicks, and is the result of high feeding, thus produc-\\ning rapid growth. A lack of bone or food\\nThe Leg*, rich in lime, together with little exercise, is\\nlargely the cause. The chick is apparently\\nwell in all other directions eats well, but can scarcely\\nstand, and often moving around on its knees.\\nTreatment. Feed more finely-ground bone, clover\\nhay, etc., and less corn or fattening food. Provide exer-\\ncise for those able to take it. This condition is not\\ndangerous if it is not continued too long. One grain\\nof quinine per day for each bird, given in form of a\\npill, is an excellent help.\\nRheumatism. This disease is apt to affect the whole\\nbody. The joints swell, and the skin over them is red\\nand hot to the touch. It is caused by exposure to cold\\nor dampness, the feeding of sulphur during damp\\nweather, or lack of green food or too much nitrogenous", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 115\\nfood. It usually attacks the bird in the legs. Young\\nturkeys are especially affected with rheumatism, also\\nyoung chicks to a less extent. Old fowls are occasion-\\nally subjected to it.\\nTreatment. Place the affected birds in a dry, clean\\nroom with board floor. Feed on a variety of green\\nstuff, such as cabbage, lettuce, carrot tops, beet tops,\\netc. Give fresh water, so the birds can not get it on\\nthemselves or the floor. Rub the legs with a soft cloth\\ndipped in extract witch-hazel, and then wrap them in\\nflannel. Also put twelve or fifteen grains of iodide of\\npotassium in the drinking water.\\nThis usually attacks young chicks and is caused by\\ncrowding, too little exercise, or too much\\nCramps. i^eat. The remedy is to correct the condi-\\ntions that produce it.\\nThis is a very common disease and is purely the fault\\nof the owner. In advanced stages it is also dangerous\\nand always unsightly. It is caused by a\\nScaly Leg s, minute insect burrowing under the scales of\\nthe shank and causing them to enlarge. One\\nfowl can spread the disease to all; even half-grown\\nchicks can take it, although fowls are the ones most\\naffected.\\nTreatment. A mixture of sulphur and lard, rubbed\\non the legs once a week until cured, is good. The\\nquickest treatment is kerosene. Take a quart can, fill\\nit with kerosene and dip the legs of the affected fowls\\ntherein. Have the can deep enough to cover all the\\nenlarged scales, and hold each leg under the oil from\\none to two minutes. Repeat after one week. This\\ntreatment is too severe for chicks.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "116 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nThe foot becomes puffed and will be found to be hot\\nand tender, and matter gathers beneath the thick skin\\non the sole or bottom of the foot. It is usu-\\nFoot ^^^y caused by birds jumping from high\\nroosts on a hard floor; the heavy breeds are,\\ntherefore, the ones most afflicted.\\nTreatment. If taken in hand before matter has\\nformed, the foot should be washed in strong vinegar\\nand then painted with iodine. Keep the bird on a soft\\nstraw bedding. If matter has formed, then a sharp,\\nslender knife should be used. Press out and wash out\\nwith warm water, to which a few drops of carbolic acid\\nhas been added. Apply nitrate of silver\u00e2\u0080\u0094 ten grains to\\nan ounce of distilled water.\\nIf on the shank, bind with two or three turns of a\\nwide band. Place wooden tooth-picks up and down\\naround the broken place and give two or\\nBones^^ three more turns of bandage cut off and sew\\nup. If the wing or thigh is broken, cut off\\nthe head and serve as pot-pie. (Not the head.)\\nThe causes for apoplexy are either a week condition\\nof the blood vessels of the brain, or a great pressure on\\nthem, thus causing a break letting out the\\nApoplexy, ^^i^^^ ^j^g brain. Overfat hens are in a\\ngood condition for apoplexy thus they will be found\\ndead under the roost in the morning. A too hearty\\nmeal may cause it, or violent exercise caused by a\\nfright from dog or man. Straining in laying an extra\\nlarge egg often ruptures a blood vessel in the brain.\\nExtreme heat in summer may also cause it.\\nTreatment. If seen in time, bleed the bird by cut-\\nting a vein on under side of wing. The proper thing", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 117\\nto do, however, is to keep the birds in proper condition\\nby giving a varied diet and plenty or exercise. Avoid\\nall excitement and do not let them get overfat.\\nImpaction. The crop often becomes impacted with\\nfood or trash picked up by the fowl. If this mass gets\\ndry and hard, it can not pass into the gizzard\\nand, unless relieved, the bird will starve to\\ndeath. This state of affairs is caused by the bird swal-\\nlowing long pieces of hay or dried grass, or by giving a\\nheavy feed of cracked corn or other grains. The bird\\nfills the crop, and when this mass swells there is not\\nroom enough for it to work. Sometimes a large piece\\nof wood or bone will get across the outlet to the gizzard\\nand thus block up the passage-way. True, every time\\na bird swallows long substances or eats too much, im-\\npaction does not follow, yet it is apt to, especially if the\\nbird is not in prime health.\\nTreatment. The crop must be softened by giving a\\ntablespoonful of castor oil and then gently working the\\ncrop with the fingers, especially working the mass back\\nfrom the opening to the gizzard. Take the bird by the\\nlegs and try (if the mass is softened) to work the food\\na little at a time down and out of the mouth. If\\nnot successful then the crop will have to be opened.\\nHave some one to hold the bird. Pull out a few feath-\\ners along the center of crop, in a line with the breast-\\nbone, and with a very sharp knife make a cut, about\\nan inch long, of the outer skin, push this slightly aside\\nand cut through the crop about three-quarters of an\\ninch long. Remove the contents with a small blunt\\ninstrument, after which insert the finger and make\\nsure everything is out, especially away from the pas-\\nsageway to the gizzard. Now take three or four stitches", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "118 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE^\\nin the crop, making each one separate, then the same\\nin the outer skin, using fine white silk or cotton.\\nPlace the bird in a dry coop and feed lightly on soft food\\nfor a week.\\nINFLAMMATION. This is cEused by the fowl eating\\nirritant material. The bird seems restless, occasion-\\nally holding the head down and trying to vomit;\\nbreathing not regular. We seldom know just what\\nthe bird has been eating, so the only thing to do is to\\ntry to work the material down and out of the mouth,\\nfirst forcing warm water into the crop. If the crop can\\nbe emptied then flaxseed tea can be given for drink and\\nfeed lightly for a week.\\nEnlarged Crop, or slack crop, as it is sometimes\\ncalled. This is usually caused by irregular feeding,\\nthus causing the birds to overload the crop when they\\ndo get the food. After awhile the crop will become\\nweakened and lose its power of contraction. It hangs\\ndown and has not the power to contract and thus force\\nthe food into the gizzard. The only thing that can be\\ndone is to make a long slit in the crop (as in impaction)\\nand cut out on each side of the opening a piece so the\\nopening will look like this and then ew up as above.\\nThe piece removed should be about two inches long by\\none or two inches wide, according to the size of the\\ncrop.\\nBronchitis. This is often confounded with pneu-\\nmonia, but is really a disease of the mucous membrane\\nlining the bronchial tubes. It varies from a\\nThe Lung s, slight cold to a copious outpouring of mucus,\\nso that the fowl is in danger of strangling.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 119\\nThis disease is more prevalent in the fall and winter.\\nSudden changes in the weather, too much glass in the\\nhouse so that it becomes very hot during the day and\\ncold at night. Dust or irritating matter, such as air-\\nslaked lime, or if the birds are the offspring of roupy\\nparents, damp currents of air may also produce it.\\nWhen suddenly attacked there is an increased heat and\\ndryness of the mucous membrane and intense thirst.\\nA whistling noise in breathing can be heard, but as the\\ndisease progresses the whistling sound will give place\\nto a rattling sound.\\nTreatment. In the first stages of bronchitis there is\\nnothing better than aconite say one drop of the\\ntincture every hour for four or five hours and then one\\ndrop every three hours. If this treatment does no\\ngood then Dr. Sanborn recommends a pill called Du-\\nmas Antimalarial, made of strychnine, iron and\\nquinine. This is recommended to cure nine-tenths of\\nsuch cases. In all cases where the mucous membrane\\nis involved the patient should be kept in a warm,\\nmoist atmosphere. Keep water boiling on the stove.\\nGive a hot mash of ground grains, half of which should\\nbe bran.\\nThis disease is the inflammation of the air cells of\\nthe lungs, and is apt to prove fatal. Some writers also\\nclaim that it is contagious. Pneumonia\\nPneumonia, comes from a cold or exposure to damp, cold\\nstorms, keeping the fowls or chicks too\\nclosely housed or babying them. Dry cold does not\\nhurt fov/ls. Fowls must have exercise in the open air,\\nand when stormy, or snow is on the ground, then open\\na window away from the windy side of the house dur-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "120 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE,\\ning the day time. It is all right to close the house up\\ntightly at night if cold weather.\\nSymptoms. The bird is hot and feverish, with short,\\nlabored breathing. The bird does not move around\\nbut stands with wings down, and its only effort is to\\nget its breath, which is no small matter.\\nTreatment. Keep the bird in a warm, moist atmos-\\nphere. Put tincture aconite in the drinking water, and\\nevery three hours give one grain phenacetin and one\\ngrain sub-phocarlolate of zinc mixed with bread crumbs\\nenough to make a pill. Feed on raw egg and milk. If\\nthe bird shows signs of recovery then feed a mixture of\\nsoft feed and keep quinine or nux vomica in the drink-\\ning water.\\nFungoid. This is a contagious disease. At first a\\nfew small swellings or ulcers appear on the comb oc-\\ncasionally on the wattles also. At first they\\nThe Comb, are hard but soon become soft and break\\nand discharge a yellowish liquid. Other\\nulcers appear and so continue until the head swells and\\nthe whole head and neck is affected. If the disease is\\nfar advanced the birds had better be killed. Separate\\nall sick birds. Tie the legs so that the bird can just\\nwalk around but can not scratch the head. Sponge the\\nhead often with warm water to which a little carbolic\\nacid has been added say a teaspoonful to a cup of wa-\\nter. Feed on soft food to which a little pepper has been\\nadded.\\nBlack Rot. The comb, especially the points, be-\\ncome purple, which soon changes to black. It is a\\nsort of dry rot, and if the bird lives long enough, the\\ncomb part of it drops off. Remove the bird to clean,", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 121\\ndry quarters, with plenty of pure air and sunshine.\\nPut one-half teaspoonful muriate of ammonia in a pint\\nof drinking water. Paint the comb three times a day\\nwith a mixture of one ounce of water, one-half ounce\\nglycerine and five grains of carbolic acid. Feed on\\nsoft food with plenty of green food handy.\\nWhite or Scurvy Comb. This is a fungus growth,\\nand the comb seems to be covered with a whitish dust.\\nIt soon spreads to the head and neck, causing the feath-\\ners to drop off from the affected parts. Sulphur in the\\ndrinking water is recommended, or paint the comb\\nwith a mixture of sulphur and tar ointment. Give a\\ndose of castor oil.\\nInjuries to the Comb, caused by fights or otherwise,\\nneed no attention, except in severe tears or cuts. Wipe\\naway all blood with warm water, to which a little car-\\nbolic acid half a teaspoonful to cup of water has\\nbeen added, and take a stitch or two if the cut is se-\\nvere. Remove all birds that meet with mishaps in or-\\nder to protect them, and thus prevent the fowls from\\nlearning to pick at each other s combs.\\nFrost Bites. The comb, when frosted, turns dark\\nand then black, and in time drops off. This is very\\npainful, and the fowl is of no use until well. Never\\ntake a bird with frosted comb into a warm room, but\\ntry to thaw out the frost gradually by removing to a\\nroom but little above the freezing point, and twice a\\nday anoint the comb with carbolized vaseline. During\\nfreezing weather a fowl will often freeze its wattles by\\ngetting them wet while drinking and then going out of\\ndoors. Keep the birds housed during such severe", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "122 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nweather and give warm water to drink, and in such a\\nmanner so that the wattles will not get wet. The tall\\ncomb varieties can not stand as severe weather as the\\nlow-comb varieties, but even with these the wattles may\\nfreeze. It is pure carelessness on the part of the owner\\nwhen combs are frozen. It puts a stop to all egg lay-\\ning.\\nThis is quite common, both in chickens and fowls.\\nIt is no particular disease, but a general weakness due\\nto improper handling or feeding, and yet\\nGoins-^Llo-ht chick will have it while the rest of the\\nclutch will be all right. It is probably\\nsome inherent weakness. A good condition powder\\nmixed with the soft feed is good. Have plenty of grit,\\ncharcoal and bone handy, also.\\nVertigo. This is due to brain pressure. The bird\\nseems dizzy, and will turn round and round. Derange-\\nment of the digestive system also has an influence this\\nway. It is usually seen with over-fat hens. In severe\\nattacks the bird will whirl around and then fall to the\\nground.\\nTreatment. Give a good dose of castor oil and feed\\non light diet of largely cut clover and wheat bran.\\nThis is not a separate disease, but is caused by the\\nfowls being compelled to breathe through the mouth,\\nthe nostrils being closed. The tip of the\\nPip. tongue becomes dry and hard. Treat the\\ndisease that causes it and bathe the tongue\\nwith glycerine. Do not remove the hard lump from\\nthe tongue.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 123\\nLittle attention has heretofore been paid to worms in\\nfowls. The United States Agricultural Department has\\nlately published a bulletin on worms in fowls,\\nWorms. especially worms in turkeys. In some sec-\\ntions of the country it is almost impossible to\\nraise turkeys on this account. They play a far more\\nimportant part in poultry raising than is generally\\nknown. There are two kinds, viz.: roundworms and\\ntapeworms.\\nRoundworm. These worms are from a third of an\\ninch to five or six inches in length. They are white in\\ncolor. These worms, while quite common, do little\\nharm unless present in large numbers. They may pro-\\nduce stoppage of the bowels, diarrhea, or, by tak-\\ning large quantities of food, weaken the bird.\\nTreatment. Every other morning give a two-grain\\npill of santonine followed by a half teaspoonful of castor\\noil. Remove such fowls, so other birds will not pick\\nup the worms that may pass.\\nTapeworm. Some writers affirm that taj)eworm in\\nfowls is identical to the tapeworm found in cats. The\\nbird may grow thin without apparent cause. If the\\njoints of the worm are seen in the droppings give five\\ndrops oil male fern in a teaspoonful of sweet oil. Give\\nthis early in the morning, and about two hours there-\\nafter give the morning feed or mash and a spoonful of\\ncastor oil for each bird.\\nWith this disease the fowl loses all control of the\\nneck and it hangs loosely down, the head often resting\\non the ground. This is largely confined to\\nNeck?* portions of the south, and is caused by fowls\\neating maggots. Give four or five drops of\\nturpentine in a spoonful of water.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "124 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nThis is not a disease but rather a habit. Some breeds\\nlearn this habit more readily than others. It is espe-\\ncially common among yarded fowls, and is\\nEatin^^ the direct cause of overfeeding, therefore,\\nlack of exercise. The fowls are not com-\\npelled to work, and too many in one pen make work\\nimpossible. Not feeding a variety of food, thus caus-\\ning the fowls to long for something to sustain all por-\\ntions of the body, is another factor. Fowls properly\\nfed and given exercise will never acquire this habit.\\nOne bird in the flock will soon teach others to follow\\nsuit.\\nTreatment. Feed on a balanced ration with plenty\\nof green food, meat, etc. Provide scratching pens and\\nfeed sparingly and make the birds work. Do not over-\\ncrowd the pens or runs. Remove such birds if only\\na few have acquired the habit to a separate coop. Put\\ntar on the feathers around where the birds pick, or bit-\\nter aloes.\\nThe poultry bit, lately placed on the market, is a\\ngood thing; or take a small piece of metal one inch\\nlong and one-sixteenth of an inch thick, fasten a fine\\nwire to each end and place in mouth, running the wire\\nthrough front of comb and fasten. Have it small\\nenough, so the bird can pick up corn, but so it can not\\nquite shut the mouth. A week or two will usually cure\\nthe habit.\\nThis is another vice, and the same causes lead to it\\nas in feather pulling. It is also caused by hens laying\\nsoft or thin-shelled eggs, and when one is\\nEaing broken the hens will eat it, thus forming the\\nhabit. Be careful to gather all the eggs each\\nnight and provide sufficient nests, so there will be no", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 125\\ncrowding while laying. Do not feed egg shells to hens\\nunless crushed fine. Place nests in dark places, and\\nso protected that the hen can hardly see the egg after\\nlaying. Kill all inveterate egg-eaters.\\nGapes attack small chickens, and are caused by small\\nred worms attaching themselves to the walls of the\\ntrachea or windpipe and becoming so numer-\\nGapes. ous as to close up the passage, thus choking\\nthe chick. This trouble, not only found in\\nchicks but in the young of all wild birds, has been\\nknown for more than one hundred years. Thousands\\nof chicks die each year from this cause. This trouble,\\nor disease, is prevalent during warm, especially warm\\nand moist weather. The earth worm is supposed to at\\ntimes carry the gape worm eggs within its own body.\\nThe chick picks up the eggs, or the earth worm con-\\ntaining eggs, and the eggs coming in contact with the\\nheat of the body hatch, and the worms find their way\\nto the trachea.\\nDr. H. D. Walker has found that if newly hatched\\nembryos were introduced into a chick, that in eight\\ndays full grown gape worms would be found in the\\ntrachea. When well grown the worms are about one-\\nhalf inch long and appear to be double; in reality they\\nare two worms, male and female, permanently united\\nfor breeding. The eggs are deposited when, from vari-\\nous causes, the worms are torn apart or the female is\\nruptured, thus letting out the eggs; the parents die of\\ncourse.\\nSymptoms. At first there is a slight cough not un-\\nlike a cold, and in a few days the chick will throw up\\nits head at every breath and gasp or gape, thus giving\\nthe name to the disease. This disease acts very much", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "126 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nlike bronchitis, etc., but an examination of the wind-\\npipe will show what it is.\\nTreatment. There are nearly as many remedies as\\nthere are people who have this trouble to contend with,\\nand we will give a few remedies that have been tried\\nsuccessfully on our own farm and others. The horse\\nhair, stripped feather or silver gape worm extractors\\nwill remove the worms from the windpipe, but this re-\\nquires individual handling and is slow.\\nTie some assafoetida in a thin cloth (about the size of\\na small marble) and keep this in the drinking water for\\na few days (one quart of water). Turpentine or carbolic\\nacid is also good to put in the drinking water.\\nBe sure to fill up all holes where water is apt to col-\\nlect after storms, for these places are good breeding\\ngrounds for gape worms.\\nSome have success in this way: take a soap box,\\nplace therein a dozen chicks and tie over the top a thin\\ncoarse cloth; dust through this some fine air-slacked\\nlime. In breathing this the chicks will be forced to\\ncough violently, and probably the worms relax their\\nhold a little. Many worms are thus coughed out and\\nthe chicks recover.\\nNever try to raise chicks on infected ground. Re-\\nmove the coops to new ground, and if the infected\\nground is left unoccupied for three years the worms\\nwill die out, or if new ground is not to be had then\\nbuild a chicken yard, the yard should be twenty or\\nmore feet square for each one hundred chicks. Make\\nthe fence tight and place the chicken coops therein.\\nBefore the chicks are due spread a bushel or two of\\nair-slaked lime over each twenty by twenty foot yard.\\nThis will kill the worms, and after the chicks are eight\\nor ten weeks old they may be allowed to run about at", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 127\\nwill. We recommend this method to all who have\\ntrouble of this kind.\\nOnion tops mixed freely in the food for the little\\nchicks will often prevent them from getting the gapes.\\nWe have tried to describe nearly all poultry diseases\\nand suggest remedies for them, but prevention is the\\nbest of all, and when we prevent the ravages\\nLice. of lice we aim at the root of at least half the\\ndiseases to which poultry is heir to. True,\\nlice may not be the direct cause of the special disease,\\nbut they are at the root of the matter by sapping the\\nvitality (blood) of the fowls, thus weakening the sys-\\ntem and causing the birds to be susceptible to any\\nspecial disease that may be in the air. The keeping\\ndown of lice is a constant warfare.\\nThe lice that give us so much trouble during warm\\nor hot weather are the little red mites and the little\\nbut active gray or spider lice. This latter variety is\\nthe one that gets all over a person when working in\\nthe roost. These two varieties do not stay on the hens\\nduring the day time but they make life a burden dur-\\ning the night. The little red mites are more easily\\nseen during the day time for they cling in bunches un-\\nder the roost-pole, in the cracks of the house and\\naround the nests. The large body lice are, like the\\npoor, always with us. These stay on the hens day and\\nnight. These are brownish. There is also a large\\ngray louse, called head lice, that stay on the head and\\nneck. There is yet another kind of body louse. It is\\nlong but thin and more of a gray color.\\nThe red and spider lice are the easiest to deal with\\nand if our roosts are lousy it is our own fault. Just as\\nsoon as warm weather sets in in the spring we should", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "128 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ncommence. In the first place have everything mova-\\nble in the hen roost, nest, boxes, roost poles and drop-\\nping board. Thoroughly clean out the house and after\\nshutting it up tightly burn sulphur in it for several\\nhours. Then take a quart can of kerosene oil and,\\narmed with a large paint brush, paint everything in the\\nhouse, taking pains to get the oil well into the cracks.\\nPaint the walls of house around the roost poles and\\nnest boxes and slap the oil well into the cracks.\\nAfter this is thoroughly done whitewash the whole\\nhouse inside. One whitewashing is enough during the\\nseason. If the roost poles, dropping boards, nests and\\nsides of house are thoroughly gone over about once a\\nmonth with kerosene the first battle will be won. The\\nbody lice are harder to get at. There is a certain liquid\\npreparation, we understand, that is guaranteed to kill\\nall the body lice by simply painting the roost poles and\\ndropping boards. Persian insect powder or Death to\\nLice will kill the body lice, but each fowl will have to\\nbe handled. At night go into the roost and take each\\nfowl by the feet head down and rub a few pinches of\\nthe powder well down in the feathers on the neck,\\nwings, fiuff and around the vent. In about ten days\\nrepeat the operation, so as to kill the new batches, and\\nyou can be sure that the hens are free from lice for a\\nmonth or two at least.\\nProvide good dust boxes with plenty of fine dry road\\ndust therein and the hens will be able to keep down the\\nlice to a certain extent. There is no use in looking for\\na large egg yield when the fowls are nearly devoured\\nby lice. The chicks suffer even more from this cause\\nthan do the older fowls because they are not strong\\nenough to withstand the strain. Half the chicks that\\ndie the cause can be traced to lice. Turkeys are even", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL rOULTRY CULTURE. 129\\nmore susceptible to the ravages of lice than are the\\nchicks.\\nHead lice are especially destructive to chicks and\\nyoung turkeys. If the chicks grow thin, or if the\\nfeathers are rough, or if they seem to be dizzy headed,\\nlook for lice. They are there whether you see them or\\nnot. Look also on the top side of the wing, down be-\\ntween the large feathers, and they will be seen.\\nCommence to fight lice when the hen is first set by\\nthoroughly dusting her with insect powder and sprink-\\nling a little in the nest. Repeat this in ten days and\\nagain on the eighteenth day of incubation. Dust the\\nhen and chicks every two -weeks, or lard can be safely\\nused, also sweet oil. Put a little do not use much\\non the head and neck, under the wings and around the\\nvent of each chick every two weeks. Don t try to raise\\nfine poultry and lice at the same time, for it can not be\\ndone. Decide first which it will be, and then go ahead.\\nMore young turkeys die each year from the ravages of\\nlice than from all other causes put together. Don t\\nneglect the head lice especially. One big feliow is\\nenough to kill a young turkey.\\n9", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX.\\nCAPONIZING.\\nWhile the United States occupies the front rank in\\npoultry culture, yet caponizing is little practiced.\\nCapons make far better eating than any other form of\\npoultry meat, yet we have never acquired that fondness\\nfor them that the English, French and Chinese have,\\nowing, probably, to the art not being generally under-\\nstood therefore, capons have never been properly\\nforced upon the market. A few years ago green or\\nyoung ducks received little attention, and, therefore,\\nfew buyers but with the advent of the incubator the\\nindustry developed. Green ducks were forced upon\\nthe market by the ton, and, strange to say, prices\\nsteadily advanced until now 40 cents per pound is\\nrealized for the earliest shipments. Why? Simply be-\\ncause people have acquired a taste for duck meat,\\nbecause of their abundance.\\nWe venture to predict just such a healthy demand\\nfor capons, providing caponizing becomes generally\\npracticed. Caponizing improves the flavor\\nDemand carcass, and the meat is also finer\\ngrained. This is probably accounted for in\\nthe fact that capons are of a very quiet disposition,\\nnever fighting or taking vigorous exercise. The size is\\nalso increased about a third, and frequently these mild\\nbirds are used to mother a iDatch of chicks. They de-\\n(130)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 131\\nlight in the company of small chicks and make excel-\\nlent mothers with very little training.\\nThe ohject, of course, is size. The larger the capon,\\nthe greater the price per pound. Large capons bring\\nfrom 20 cents to 25 cents per pound, while\\nable ^^ip^ bring less, therefore the larger\\nbreeds should be used. Plymouth Rocks,\\nCochins or Brahmas make good capons, although any\\nbreed, excepting the large comb varieties, will do fairly\\nwell.\\nAn expert can perform the entire operation in two\\nminutes or less. The operation is painful while it lasts,\\nso is dehorning of cattle yet with cattle the\\nino^Cruell ^^v^^t^S^ thus derived, in an additional flow\\nof milk and quiet in the barnyard, more than\\ncompensates for the operation. Thus, in caponizing,\\nthe quiet disposition of the always pugnacious cocks\\nwill easily compensate for the pain thus caused. The\\nhigher price derived, added to the increased weight,\\nought to compensate the owner for the trouble of cap-\\nonizing. We all know that it is almost impossible to\\nkeep a large number of cockerels together especially\\nif yarded. Caponize these same cockerels and they\\nwill live together far more quietly than the same num-\\nber of hens.\\nSlips are partly caponized fowls. They are often as\\npugnacious as cockerels, but usually do not grow so\\nlarge as a full capon, neither is the flesh so\\nSlips. tender and juicy. This is caused by leaving\\nsome of the testicle within. With proper in-\\nstruments, few slips will be the result. If a small par-\\nticle is left within, it can be removed by spooning it\\nout with a proper instrument.\\nThe cockerels to be caponized should be without food", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "132 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nfor twenty-four hours before the operation. For the\\nnext few days they should be fed very spar-\\nFood, ingly on soft food, after which they can be\\nfed as other fowls. For a month or two after\\nthe operation they will be very ravenous, but this will\\ngradually subside. If confined, feed green food, cut\\nbone or meat, or grit and powdered charcoal, with\\nplenty of fresh, clean water. Also keep them free from\\nlice. Ducks and pullets can also be caponized, but the\\noperation is harder to perform and may not prove prof-\\nitable.\\nThe proper age to caponize is when two or three\\nmonths old. They are usually sold when from ten to\\nfifteen months old. The market opens soon\\nWhen to after the holidays. This art can readily be\\nlearned by any one who has a steady hand\\nand good eyesight. Of course experiments should be\\ntried on dead birds, for when the operation is slowly or\\npoorly done it is extremely painful and cruel. The\\nproper way is to take a few lessons from an expert.\\nWe are indebted for the following cuts of instru-\\nments and birds to Mr. Wm. H. Wigmore, who is a\\nmaker of caponizing instruments. No per-\\nmeuts^^*^ should attempt to caponize without a full\\nset of instruments. Figure 1 shows the\\nmethod of securing the bird. A narrow table, box or\\nbarrel should be used, so it can easily be turned in or-\\nder to get the sunlight to shine\\non and in the opening, thus\\nmaking the parts to be removed\\nplainly visible. Lay the bird\\non its left side, securely tie the\\nlegs above the knees also pass\\nanother cord around the wings.\\nFigure L 1^^ ^g^^", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 133\\nhold the ends of the cords securely, thus keeping the\\nbird quiet. Wet the bird s side and feathers with cold\\nwater, to prevent bleeding. This will also allow the\\nfeathers to be twisted back out of the way, thus pre-\\nventing the pulling of the feathers. Now push the\\nflesh down toward the hip, so that when the operation\\nis performed the flesh will come back and completely\\nclose up the hole between the ribs thus the opening\\nin the skin will be three-quarters of an inch above and\\nbetween the ribs, enabling the wound to heal up in a\\ncouple of days.\\nThe incision must be made between the first and sec-\\nond rib, about one-half inch long. When ready to cut\\npress the point of the knife in quickly one-quarter of\\nan inch and hold it there a second, as the bird will\\nmove his ribs up and down at that point a moment,\\nthen he will become quiet. Increase the cut one-half\\ninch. Lay the knife aside, keeping the skin in place\\nwith the left hand. Now take up the spreader (see fig-\\nure 2) between the thumb and first finger. Press the\\nFigure 2.\\ntwo points together and insert the hooked ends in the\\nincision, making sure to have the hooks between the\\nribs. Hold the spreader in position with the left hand,\\nand with the knife increase the opening by cutting to-\\nwards the backbone and forward in a line between the\\nribs, until large enough to allow the free passage of the\\nscoop twister. Do not cut too near the backbone. Lit-", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "134 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\ntie or no blood should be drawn by cutting in a line\\nwith the veins, not across them. If blood should be\\ndrawn carefully wipe it off with a damp rag or sponge\\nbefore opening the inner thin skin, otherwise the blood\\nwill run in on the testicles and make the lower one\\nhard to find.\\nNow take up the scoop twister and w^ith the hook end\\ntear open the thin skin until the right testicle is in full\\nview. Use the hook wnth great care, so as not to\\npuncture an artery or the bowels.\\nNo. 1 Figure 3.\\nll^\\nNo. 2\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Figure 3.\\nNo. 3\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Figure 3.\\nTake the canula spatula (see No. 2 Figure 3) in\\nthe left hand, and with it push the bowels aside; just\\nbelow will be seen the left testicle. Now introduce the\\nscoop twister (see No. 3 Figure 3) with the right\\nhand, catching the lower or left testicle endwise in\\nthe scoop. Gently shake it to get it all in and make\\nthe spermatic cord settle well down in the slot. Now\\ncarefully twist the testicle off. The spatula is valuable\\nto help push the testicle in the scoop and preventing\\nthe bowels from being tw^isted up with the scoop. Next\\nperform the same operation on the right or upper testi-\\ncle. The reason for removing the left or lower testicle", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTUREo 135\\nfirst is because it is the hardest to get at, and being\\nlower down, should blood be drawn, it will make the\\noperation harder to be performed. After removing the\\nleft testicle it will only be a very few seconds before the\\nright one will be removed and the operation completed.\\nIf a small piece has been left in by not getting quite\\nall of the testicle in the scoop, put the scoop in again\\nand catch it in the slot. A piece no larger than a\\npinhead left in is what produces slips. If the testicle\\nis large, as in the older birds, the only thing to do is to\\nremove as much as possible and then go again for the\\nbalance. If much blood has been drawn, spoon it out\\nwith the scoop.\\nThe next day after the operation, if they have a windy\\nswelling around the wound, run a darning needle\\nthrough the skin to let out the air, although they w^ill\\nusually come out all right without the use of the darn-\\ning needle.\\nIf the operation is successful they shortly have a\\npassage. After the operation place the bird in a pen or\\nenclosed yard for a few days, after which it can be\\nallow^ed to run at w411. Capons never crow.\\nIn dressing them for market leave the feathers on the\\nneck, wings and tail.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X.\\nSHORT ITEMS KEEPING EGGS KEEP AN ACCOUNT\\nCOLD STORAGE.\\nThe sales of produce are largely based on the supply\\nand demand, especially the supply. Is there an over-\\nproduction of poultry or eggs? Fifteen years\\nGood g-oods ago the incubator was comparatively un-\\ncommaiid r^i i j xi i u\\ng-ood prices. thicks were raised m the good old\\nway, and in the spring and summer only.\\nBroilers in March, April and May were unknown, and\\nindeed they were in but slight demand. Since that\\ntime thousands of incubators and brooders have been\\nsold and used. Thousands of broilers have been thrown\\non tlie early and late markets, and yet prices keep pace\\nwith the supply. In 1893 the crash came, but the poul-\\ntry product seemed to suffer less than any other farm\\nproduct. During the year that has passed wheat\\nhas been selling below the cost of production. Other\\nfarm crops including calves, beeves and hogs have\\nbeen way down, and yet poultry and eggs have been\\nselling at a fair profit. Why is this thus? The pop-\\nulation of our cities is increasing, and as the supply\\nof the poultry product has also vastly increased, the\\npeople, seeing the attractive and nutritious food on\\nevery hand, have been induced to purchase more freely.\\nPoultry exhibitions in nearly all the large cities have\\nhelped to attract the attention of the people. The\\ngrowing interest in thorouglibred poultry and the de-\\n(136)", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 137\\nsire to produce choice articles of food has had its effect,\\nand to-day there are many times the buyers of poultry\\nand eggs there were a few years ago. There is, there-\\nfore, no overproduction in sight as yet. There are\\nthousands of people who do not purchase dressed poul-\\ntry more than two or three times a year, and we believe\\nthat as the supply increases the demand will increase.\\nWe do not expect to see an over-production of choice\\npoultry or eggs, in our day at least. We say choice.\\nTliere is now, and always has been, an over-supply of\\ninferior grades. If we wish to secure good prices we\\nmust put our goods up in attractive packages. If we\\nsend chicks or fowls to market they must be well\\ndressed and plump, and so packed that when they are\\ntaken out by the dealer they will have a fresh and clean\\nappearance. If we send eggs they should be assorted\\nas to size and color. Some markets demand a white\\negg, some a brown egg. Raise and send just what\\nyour market will pay the best prices for. Watch the\\nmarket and send just when the prices are at their best.\\nFrom February to June the New York market demands\\nbroilers that weigh 3)4 pounds per pair. From June to\\nSeptember roasters that weigh 5 to 8 pounds per pair\\nare in demand, and after that fowls are in demand.\\nEggs bring the highest prices during cold weather,\\ntherefore have the hens laying from October to Febru-\\nary. A hen is simply a machine, and if she is kept\\nwarm and fed for eggs, under proper conditions, she\\ncan not help herself, but must lay. Let us not only\\nstudy the market, but study the wants of our fowls as\\nwell, for there is money in them.\\nIt has always been the custom to put eggs down in\\nsalt or lime if they are to be held for higher prices.", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "188 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nThere are about as many different ways of\\nE^^s^ keeping eggs as there are people who wish to\\nkeep them. We will give a simple method\\nused by a few. In the first place, all eggs that are in-\\ntended to be preserved should be laid by hens not\\nmated with a cock. Infertile eggs will keep for a long\\ntime. It is always more or less risky to attempt to keep\\nfertile eggs, for if there is much change in temperature\\nthe germ may start and then die, thus causing the egg\\nto addle, or spoil. If, hDwever, there is no germ\\nthere to start, then the egg stands an excellent chance\\nto keep. True it is that the longer we keep eggs the\\nstaler they will get they never seem to go the other\\nway; but if they are kept in a cool, dry place they will\\nnot get musty. Keep eggs so that the air can get to\\nand all around them. The room should be cool (from\\n40\u00c2\u00b0 to 60\u00c2\u00b0) and well ventilated. Don t let it get mus-\\nty. Build racks that will hold, say 100 eggs each.\\nMake the bottoms of wire netting and run sticks across\\nevery two inches apart. The sticks should be half an\\nincli wide at bottom and come to a point at top. They\\nshould be triangular, in fact. Make the sides of tray\\none inch high. Now make a rack the width of the\\ntrays, with cleats on the inside, say four inches apart,\\nso that the trays can be shoved in the rack, one tray\\nabove another. In this way a great many eggs can be\\nplaced in a small space and always be out of the way.\\nTurn the eggs half over two or three times a week.\\nDraw out a tray of eggs, invert an empty tray over the\\nfull one, take firm hold on each side and invert, re-\\nplacing the formerly empty tray in the rack. Thus it\\nonly takes about a minute to turn 100 eggs.\\nHow many farmers are there who really know whether\\ntheir poultry pays them or not? Very few, we would", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 139\\nsay. The keeping of accounts is very simple,\\nAccount. have hooks ah eady ruled and\\nprinted for this very thing.\\nWe have kept such a record for years, and it is a source\\nof great satisfaction to look over these occasionally\\nand compare one year with another and thus see where-\\nin we have failed. Poultry furnishes us our main sup-\\nport, and if the credit was not on the right side we\\nwould come out rather slim, but we have no fear of\\nthat. Disease never enters our flocks. We never had\\na case of roup or cholera, and never expect to. We\\nalways have a good supply of eggs, and our broilers\\ncommand good prices. Why? Well, if we must say\\nit, we attend to all the details, both small and great,\\npersonally. We try never to neglect a single duty; have\\neverything snug and tight, and never go to bed won-\\ndering how things are getting along, for we always\\nknow that everything has been attended to. In fact,\\nwe carry business principles in our chosen business,\\nand keep a record of every detail^ the cost of pro-\\nduction and the price realized from all sales, and\\nwhen sold. We study the markets, and know just\\nwhen and how to ship, and at the end of the year\\nwe can tell to a cent just how we stand. This account\\nshould not only take in what we sell on the market,\\nbut also w^iat we use in our own families, for it is just\\nas much credit to the hens to supply eggs for us as for\\nmarket.\\nIf we keep an account with our hens we will be apt\\nto each year try to do a little better than the year be-\\nfore, and thus good results will follow. How often we\\nhear farmers say, Oh, well, hens don t pay anyway.\\nThe fact is that they really don t know whether they do\\nor not. There are plenty of farmers wives who supply", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "140\\nPRACTICA.L POULTRY CULTURE.\\nthe table from the production of the poultry yard, and\\nyet these very farmers often say that poultry don t pay.\\nIt is a very small vocation to them. They rather raise\\nsomething larger raise a lot of hogs, and don t know\\nthat if the food consumed by them, if sold, would often\\nbring more than do the hogs. It is the same with their\\ncows, all because they do not keep an account with the\\nhogs or cows. Both of these animals can be made to\\nturn in a fair profit if properly managed, and if the\\nfarmers kept a true account with everything on the\\nfarm they would raise less of this or that, or improve\\non their methods of handling.\\nBy all means keep an account with the hens, and\\nthen if they don t pay just wake up and make them\\npay.\\nA COLD STORAGE HOUSE.\\nThe house can be any desired size. A house, or\\nrather ice box, 8x12x12 feet, will hold about thirty five\\nFig. 1\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cold Storage House.", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\n141\\nW/W//Wy. wA -y ti M/y/M AM yA\\niroRAOt Room\\ntons of ice. No house should be built that does not\\nhold at least thirty tons of ice. The\\nlarger the bulk the slower it will melt.\\nThe cold room should be in the north\\nend of the house, away from the sun.\\nThe outside studding should be 2x6\\ninches. The inside and outside sheath-\\ning should be foot wide hemlock\\nboards nailed on horizontally. The\\nsix-inch space between should be\\nfilled in with sawdust. Now the\\nmost important part is the outside\\nsheathing. Nail 2x4 studding edge-\\nwise against the outside sheathing of\\nhemlock boards, perpendicularly, every two feet apart and\\nweatherboard on these, leaving a four-inch space at the\\nlet Room\\n/}}m///{}k\\nFig.2\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Ground Plan.\\nPfAK\\n1 i: ;i i: ;i\\nfv I. i\\n-^/-A\\n1 ^p^.d.o^\\ni. M -n\\niX4\\nS\\\\h^\u00c2\u00ab\\nSection of side, showing how weather\\nboards should be put on.\\nbottom, next the ground, and also at the top, under the\\neaves. See cut. Thus we have a four-inch air-space\\nbetween the outside and inside sheathing. The sun", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "142 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE^\\nshining on the outside weatherboards will heat the air\\non the inside and cause it to rise, while cooler air\\nwill come in at the bottom, thus not only causing the\\nreal sides of the house to be always away from the sun,\\nbut also actually make it cooler on account of the cir-\\nculation of air.\\nThe foundation can be of brick. It should be at least\\ntwo feet below the surface of the ground. The sill\\nshould be bedded in mortar and the inside\\ndati(Hr^^^ sheathing come down below or to the first\\nrow of brick, so that the air can not come in\\nthere. It will not do to pack ice against brick or stone,\\ntherefore the brick wall should be furrowed off by 2x4\\ninch joist and boarded up on the inside. This four-\\ninch space should also be filled in with sawdust. The\\ncool or storage room can be four or more feet wide. The\\npartition between the cool room and ice should be filled\\nin with sawdust also, using 2x4 inch joist. The cool\\nroom should be ceiled a little below the plate. The\\ncool room will be a little cooler in summer than a cool\\ncellar, and if it is desirable to make it cooler yet, then\\nan ice box will have to be built at the top, next the\\nceiling,\\nThis ice box should be some six or eight inches\\nsmaller all around than the room is and about eighteen\\ninches or two feet deep. It should be sus-\\nBox. pended from the ceiling and six inches from\\nit. The ceiling of the cool room should be\\nmade double. The bottom of the ice box should be\\n2x4 in. joist run crosswise of box and turned on edge.\\nThey should be about two inches apart. A drip pan\\nshould be suspended under the box and some six inch-\\nes below the bottom joist to catch the water from the\\nice. Do not make the pan any larger than the inside", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE. 143\\nof ice box. A small pipe running from one end of pan\\ncan carry off the water. Cold air goes down, and by\\nleaving the spaces around the ice box the cold air will\\nhave plenty of room to move in. The ice box can be filled\\ndirectly from the ice chamber by having a door in the\\npartition between the cold room and ice chamber. This\\ndoor should be double, the same as the partition, and\\nthe space between the boards made into an air chamber\\nby closing up the top and bottom of door and lining\\nwith building paper. This cool room can now be\\nmade just as cold as is wanted by putting in more or\\nless ice. This is the same principle that is employed in\\nregular butchers ice boxes. Such a room w^ould be too\\ncold to keep eggs in, for they should not be kept at a\\ntemperature below 40 degrees.\\nSuch a house as we have described can be used in\\nmany ways on a farm. It can be made any size de-\\nsired. It can be used for cold storage for fruit, thus\\nholding them for higher prices. Shelves can be ar-\\nranged along the sides to set small articles upon. Meat,\\nbutter, etc., can be kept for any length of time therein.\\nIt can be built comparatively cheap and will repay for\\nitself in one season.\\nYet another way to build a cool room is to keep the\\nice in the center and use a space all around it for a\\ncool room, yet where the ice-box is used the cool room\\nshould be all together. The object should be to have\\nthe cool room just as small as possible, thus it will re-\\nquire less ice to keep it cool.\\nThe cool room should be ventilated and kept dry and\\nsweet. Whitewash the sides and use plenty of air-\\nslaked lime. The floor of the ice part should be filled\\nin with six inches of sawdust, for if the bottom is not\\nbuilt properly the ice will not keep. If the ground", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "144 PRACTICAL POULTRY CULTURE.\\nunder the ice part does not have a naturally good drain-\\nage then a drain will have to be put in. For an ordi-\\nnary sized house build a double roof or A-shaped, with\\nventilators in gable ends, and above this roof, some ten\\ninches, build another roof of cheap lumber. It will\\npay, for it will keep the house very much cooler.\\nO /L^", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "^^JS\\n3^\\n5 _:\\n*f\\n0; 3^", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "3 3^\\n3\\n3)\\ng\\n3 3 X IL\\ni :s\\n\u00c2\u00bb1 3\\n3 D 3 3fc\\n^3 I2\\n3r\\np J) 3 i\\n3 3 ,i\u00c2\u00bb", "height": "3202", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3138", "width": "2275", "jp2-path": "practicalpoultry00davi_0168.jp2"}}