{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3256", "width": "2036", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.\\nChap o^.i Copyright No..\\nShelf..G.^!J\\nUNITED STATES OF AMERICA.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "i", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "By-gone Tourist Days\\nLetters of Travel\\nBy LAURA G. COLLINS\\nAuthor of Immortelles and Asphodels\\nILLUSTRATED\\nI consider letters the most vital part of literature\\nElizabeth Barrett Browning\\nCINCINNATI\\nTHE ROBERT CLARKE COMPANY\\nJ900", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "TWO COPIES RECEIVED,\\nLibrary Of GcnGTagej\\nOffice of tt^\\nRegis-.\\nTHE LIBRARY\\nOF CONGRESS\\n40826\\nCopyright, J899,\\nBy The Robert Clarke Company.\\nSECOND COPV.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "INSCRIPTION*\\nRespectfully inscribed to the dear friends\\nto whom the letters were written,\\nand by them preserved*", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nlyONDON Letter April 7, 1882, i\\nTrip on the Atlantic The Steamer Adriatic Storm on\\nthe Ocean Chester English Cathedrals ^To Liver-\\npool Chatsworth Stratford The 318th Anniversary\\nof Shakespeare Oxford Magdalen College Addi-\\nson s Walk New College Sir Joshua Rejrnolds-\\nWindow At Warwick Bodlean Library Ashmolean;;/\\nMuseimi SpofiFord Brooks and Canon Liddon.\\nLondon Letter June 11, 1882, .16\\nSeeing London Advantage of being in a great city\\nThe boarding-house, just for Americans Windsor\\nPalace Gray s grave Moncure Conway Canon Par-\\nrar Bostonians ^American Cousins From London on.\\nthe way to Scotland.\\nFrom London to Edinburgh ^July 4, 1882, 22\\nFour hours at York The Nuns of St. Leonard s Hos-\\npital\u00e2\u0080\u0094St. Mary s Abbey\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Five Sisters \u00e2\u0080\u0094New-\\ncastle-on-Tyne\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Durham\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Cathedral\u00e2\u0080\u0094 St. Cuthbert\\nThe Tomb of Bede The Legend of Bede Wandering\\nminstrels Scenery on the route The sunset A Scotch\\nlady List of tourists.\\nScoTivAND Letter ^July 21, 1882, 32\\nEdinburgh Holyrood Palace Castle with relics of Mary\\nQueen of Scots Alexander Swift says Of traveling\\nDumf ermline The Abbey of Robert Bruce Newbattle\\nAbbey.\\nCvii)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "viii CONTENTS.\\nHejidelberg IvE;ttkr August 1 6, 1882, 38\\nIn Heidelberg The Neckar The places I have been\\nSketches over the line of travel ^The scenes visited\\nfrom England to Heidelberg.\\nHb;ide;i,be;rg I,e;tte;r September 3, 1882, 41\\nHeidelberg; this is home From Nuremberg ^The en-\\nchantment and charms of the old city ^The streets,\\nbuildings, bridges, churches, museums and galleries-\\nMasterpieces of Durer, Kraft, Stoss and Vischer ^The\\nworks of numerous artists ^The lime tree The lamp\\nthat has been lighted since 1326 The crown princess\\nThe Exposition Going back some day ^A day of rest\\nCape Colony English ladies My traveling companion.\\nBadkn-Badkn September 19, 1882, .44\\nHeidelberg on the Neckar The castle, the Jettenbiihl\\nDas Grosse Pass Mapping out Switzerland The\\nfloods\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Gardens\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Black Forest- The Oos\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nThe trees on the banks ^To Strassburg.\\nNtTREjMBERG September 27, 1883, .47\\nFrom Heidelberg to Nuremberg Nuremberg the objec-\\ntive point Ancestors back to 1570 Up the Neckar\\nThe scenery Two historic points Hotels full Grand\\nExposition Superb attractions\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Old lime tree Durer s\\nmonument The princess and family A wedding\\nTraveling alone German lady At Baden Friedrichs-\\nbad The days at Strassburg.\\nMunich IvKTTEr September 24, 1882, 60\\nOld and New Schloss Trinkhalle and its waters ^The\\ngreat Friedrichsbad Strassburg Cathedral The won-\\nderful clock St. Thomas Church, with monument to\\nMarshal Saxe ^The Strassburg specialty, pates-de-fois-\\ngras The attractive city, Constance Monastery where", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. ix\\nHuss was imprisoned The place where Jerome suffered\\nsentence From Constance to Lindau The beauty of\\ncountry and scenery ^The Alps again ^Words not equal\\nto doing justice Innumerable places of attraction\\nMiinchen, the capital of little Bavaria.\\nMuNCHKN I^:eTTKR October ii, 1882, 64\\nVisit to royal palace ^A woman s voice in American Kn-\\nglish Walks and drives around Munchen Looking in\\nthe shop windows Picking up pictures Call at the\\nbook-store The Ivast Judgment, largest oil painting\\nin the world Other pictures and sketches Vesper\\nservice Munich a large city Neighbors A Prussian\\nofficer.\\nMunich I^dtter November 18, 1882, 77\\nLetters, letters, letters An evening with friends My\\nhusband and early childhood Happy days Dear hills,\\nbeautiful hills, sacred hills Youthful days ^The house\\nwhere I was bom The Point That exuberant\\nset Another Mrs. C. Bavarian officer ^Anticipation\\nof seeing the Alps A concert Booth Letters.\\nMiJNCHE^N IfEl^TKR November 20, 1882, 87\\nA homesick heart ^The leaf from a tree Views about the\\nold homestead ^The royal family at church Royal\\ndames One of the princesses, a beautiful woman ^The\\nking The music ^The church My religion.\\nMunich Lettkr December 12, 1882, 92\\nRepetition Letter of the altogethery type My style\\nLove, late in life Indian summer That vale of Aber-\\ndeen Beautiful old ladies ^That singular death-bed\\nspeech ^The divine musician French books Dutch\\nreading The epic, Nibelungenlied ^The king s palace.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "X CONTENTS.\\nMunich Lktt:sr December 22, 1882, loa\\nMy counterfeit presentment The crayon portrait Paint\\nme as I am About my pictures The home of my\\nchildood The Place of Roses Les Petites Miseres\\nde la vie Conjugale Christmas coming ^What John\\ndid Christmas, Christmas.\\nMunich IvB^TTER January 2, 1883, 105\\nPreparations for Christmas Bavaria and its kings ^The\\npublic buildings Music The house of Wittelsbach\\ndates from mo ^The Maximilians ^The king on his\\ndeath-bed ^The present king, I,udwig II His charac-\\nter His royal palaces ^The Gallery of Ancestors ^The\\nking a poet His refined taste The king s spotless\\nreputation Of the kings.\\nMiJNCHSN lyKTTBR January 15, 1883, .117\\nChristmas and New Years The scathingest tongue\\nChristmas tree The Nibelungenlied in German\\nChurch services German New Year s Eve Our frau s\\nbanquet.\\nMunich IvKTTER October 4, 1886, 12\\nOf writing letters Ingenious sophism ^The little girl\\nthat prayed ^The readable letter with a secret His\\nage Miss B s letter ^A grand gala day Sunday\\nthe open day The king Royal family ^Royal person-\\nages Officers of state A four o clock tea.\\nt^ARis I/E^ TTER February 4, 1883, 134.\\nAt last in Paradise From Munich to Paris The journey\\na dream One s own vernacular View from my private\\nbalcony In sight of the Mackey s palace Grace\\nGreenwood in Paris What an enchantment to know\\nplaces by sight ^The street scenes Vast concourse of\\nseething humanity The weather The flowers.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS, XI\\nParis Lettkr February 8, 1883, .137\\nTo begin Figures Not writing for fame or filthy lucre\\nTwo in one existence From Munich to Paris alone\\n^The experience of cold ^The German cars comfort-\\nable Fallen in love Paris, I^ondon and Mimich Com-\\npared Manufactory of the Gobelins ^Pompeian palace\\nViewing art Language Night Solitude ^To Italy\\nfrom Paris.\\nParis I^e;tter September i, 1883, 144\\nIn Paris again after six months Good intentions Femi-\\nnine interruption ^A flash of inspiration ^The lion of\\nsandstone carved in a grotto ^Trip to the glaciers First\\nmule ride Return from the sublime spectacle ^The de-\\nscent more difficult than the ascent English ladies\\nFrom Interlaken to Bern Lake Leman ^The Garden\\nin which Gibbon wrote the conclusion of his great\\nwork Chillon Passage to Chamony All the way to\\nGeneva ^That book The Pension The Madame.\\nParis I^etti^r Januaay i, 1884, .158.\\nLetter Verses Christmas Eve ^Tree party My hostess\\nand myself Salutatory an impromptu poem ^The eve-\\nning s entertainment Twelfth Night I shun sleep\\nCharacteristics Sending the book A letter from\\nMiss B. ^The article on Bums Finis and reflections.\\nParis Lkttkr April i, 1884, 166\\nEnjoying Paris in fair weather President Grevy ^The\\nnumerous entertainments ^There is no hostess The\\nmusical side of Paris A pleasant American family\\nSunday afternoon concert The music The audience\\nTo the Luxembourg with an American girl.\\nParis Lettejr December 6, 1885, .16^\\nLetter acknowledged I am again a wandering star The", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "xii CONTENTS.\\ndelights of travel ^The poor king who lost his head\\nThomas a Becket Whitehall Government buildings\\nSaw Gladstone s and Salisbury s seats Went to Temple\\nBar\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Old clocks\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The cathedral\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Vespers at Little St.\\nMartin s Crossed the Channel Sight-seeing Cuvier\\nand Himiboldt Experiences, drives and sights Pleas-\\nant people we met.\\nParis Lktte;r December 13, 1886, .175\\nReturn delayed by storms Miss B came from Sweden\\nProposed trip on the Nile ^A line from under old\\nCheops.\\nParis IvBTTEjr March 8, 1887, .177\\nDisappointed about the Jerusalem trip Contributions\\nfrom every grand division No date for sailing Ladies\\nfrom Louisville, Ky. The title of the little book\\nMadame gives a house-warming Bloom and beauty.\\nParis Lbttsr April 26, 1887, .180\\nBirthday anniversary Dispensations of conscientiousness\\nHow the days go The sight-seeing never comes to an\\nend ^The Salon open for the Annual Exposition\\nAt the Exposition Numerous pictures Theodora,\\nSara Bemhardt s great character Two French ladies\\nThe musical entertainment given me Paris in the\\nmonth of May.\\nParis I/:^tti;r May 29, 1887, .185\\nThe letter and the book Figures and a woman s age\\nPictures Millet s L Angelus Subjects and charac-\\nter of paintings The little book The drive\\nChamps Elysees as a fashionable resort The enchant-\\nment of the scenes The little book again, and\\nagain.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. xiii\\nVknice Letter June 8, 1883, .192\\nThe letter in fancy from Florence No rules from the\\nflight of imagination Longfellow says it for me\\nVenice in June Drifting about in a gondola\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The\\nGrand Canal ^The dazzling glory of the scene A\\ntrance; a dream; perfect, perfect Venice! Allusion to\\na story of life A book to come forth If I am to die\\nto-morrow The ideal woman and friend\\nKentucky gossip Oh! oh! oh! perfect, perfect Venice!\\nI^ucERNE Letter ^June 26, 1883, 201\\nThe wooden horse of Donatello Goethe s palm tree\\nFrom Padua to Verona Juliet s tomb The house of\\nCapulets Milan The cathedral Grand Victor Eman-\\nuel Gallery Pictures in galleries Visit to libraries\\nView of levees Italian lakes and scenes The tropical\\nbloom Nightingale songs The grand climb up the\\nAlps The glaciers Snow flower, edelweiss\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The ruins\\nof castles The moonlight scene The descent from the\\nAlps The aching heart, like the d)dng gladiator.\\nVienna Letter October 17, 1883, 214\\nNo end to the beginning The opera Letters The sur-\\nface of things Below the surface Knowledge of more\\nbreadth My hostess Wagner s operas The object of\\nmy pilgrimage to Vienna The aurist of Burope The\\nspecialist s quarters ^The Imperial Library.\\nSiena Letter March 4, 1883, 224\\nThings we saw on the way Shrine of Petrarch s Laura\\nThe Papal palaces The frescoes Musee Calvet Ver-\\nnet Gallery and pictures ^The moonlight drive to Mar-\\nseilles At Cannes An English lady Hotel on the\\nsea-front ^The moonrise out of the sea Bishop Little-\\njohn, of Rhode Island ^A tram-drive Excursion to\\nMonaco and Monte Carlo Pisa Geneva Mt. Blanc.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "xiv CONTENTS.\\nRoMK Letter March 19, 1883, 231\\nAn Ohioan from Granville Naples and views Museums\\nand the palace of Capodimonte Picture of Michael\\nAngelo and Vittoria Colonna Pompeian frescoes\\nVittoria Colonna s husband Vesuvius at night Long-\\nfellow s poem, Amalfi Paestum Ideal drive Mu-\\nseimi Narcissus listening to Echo Palm Sunday at\\nSt. Peter s The Sistine Chapel Goethe s words\\nHawthorne s Rome The Marble Faun Springtime\\nChristmas flowers Christmas souvenirs.\\nRome Letter April 4, 1883, 238\\nScenes along the coast of Italy I/ittle villages ^The\\nmountains Monastery of the Capuchins The maca-\\nroni factory The monastery and monks Our Paestum\\nday Vesuvius before the charmed gaze Birthplace of\\nTasso Celebrated places Second trial of Naples\\nTrip from Naples to Rome Ancient Capua Monte\\nCasino, its associations Rome Palm Sunday Various\\nservices English lady Holy Week Drive on the Via\\nAppia The Catacombs and tombs The grotto The\\ntree of Numa s wisdom.\\nRome Letter April 24, 1883, 251\\nImportance of address in a foreign land Guercino s\\nfresco of Aurora Scene in Imperial Rome Rome\\nmistress of the world Story of Eve ^Tasso memorial\\nroom Swarm of lizards A view of St. Peter s Pom-\\npey s statue The Plaza ^The Jews quarters, called\\nGhetto The house of Rienzi Protestant cemetery\\nBurial place of Keats and the heart of Shelley.\\nRome Letter May 2, 1883, .261\\nWhile Rome stands, the world stands The rounds of\\nchurches ^The galleries and museums Palaces and\\nshops Being in Rome, do as Romans do Piazzi di", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. XV\\nSan Giovanni, the largest in existence One of the\\neleven obelisks Mosaic frescoes ^The queen in her\\ncarriage Church of St. Onafrio, on the Janiculus ^The\\nthree frescoes by Domenichino and I^eonardo da Vinci\\n^Tasso buried here ^Three churches of the Aventine\\nGalleries ^Artists quarters Our Rodgers and Ives\\nTheir art Italian artist Dwight Benton, formerly of\\nCincinnati, Ohio Italian scenes.\\nMaiori Letter April 5, 1886, 274\\nApology for delinquent letter What a butterfly she\\nis One of the party sick On the Mediterranean\\nLongfellow s poem ^The steep climb The poor little\\ndonkey Features of the scene The death in life\\nThe region abounds in drives Talk of Sicily and Africa\\nA letter ^The sacred few The little book\\nBlessed be the potato, henceforth and forever\\nINaples Letter May i, 1886, 281\\nA drive to Salerno From there to Paesttmi The temple\\nof Neptune ^An incident of missing glasses Return to\\nSalerno Then to Pompeii Naples Friends from\\nTunis A steamer for Sicily Storm at sea Palermo,\\nits environs The palaces The drives and places we\\nvisited The museum, Metopes, and splendid art\\nBeauty of the country The fountain of Arethusa\\nRoman amphitheater The quarries Mt. Btna ^The\\nseven rocks of Cyclops Messina That coat of arms\\nof Sicily The heart-ache of good-byes.\\nLattterbrunnen Letter ^July 29, 1886, 291\\nWrought up over letters Poaching on your preserves\\nThe cause of wit Friends, their character estimated\\nOf writing Sojoiurn in the beautiful valley The\\nStaubach The Jungfrau.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "xvi CONTENTS.\\nEgypt Estter December 30, 1886, 295\\nAboard steamer Prince Abbas\u00e2\u0080\u0094 On the Nile In the\\nteeth of a storm Sunrise and sunset on the Mediter-\\nranean Acquaintances, a citizen from the hub\\nAt Alexandria The seven wonders ^To Cairo English\\nofficers The Pyramids Pillars at Heliopolis The\\nVirgin s tree The island of Rhodda Mosques and\\ntombs The site of Memphis Twelve miles of won-\\nderland\u00e2\u0080\u0094The air The flowers The guests on steamer\\nOne can live too much in books.\\nEgypt Lktter from Paris February 10, 1887, 302-\\nAgreeable surprises Down the Nile The atmosphere\\nand mysterious influence of scene lyanding of steamer\\nOur donkey ride The tombs The imposing magnifi-\\ncence of the monuments Rain in Egypt Reflections\\nPictures to help tell the story The coming book.\\nCuba E^tter April 7, 1885, 307\\nThe magical isle of Cuba Tropical vegetation Sunrise\\nin the harbor of Havana The trip on the steamer\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nMoro Castle Strange scene on landing The buildings\\nThe drive, atmosphere and scenery The watch inci-\\ndent Shopping expedition People we met To Cerro\\nSugar plantations and process of sugar-making The\\ncaves The beautiful island, Cuba The freedom of\\nslaves Spanish government.\\nA Vision of Fatigue, 32a", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "U.ST OF IIvI^USTRATIONS.\\nPAGE\\nShakespeare s Birthplace, from below, Stratford, ii\\nRoom in Shakespeare s Home, Stratford, 12\\nMary, Queen of Scots, Edinburgh, 32\\nPension and Garden to which Goethe wrote a\\nPoem, Heidelberg, 38\\nThe Old Kaiser at Historical Window, 71\\nlyouis II, the Mad King of Bavaria, 90\\nQueen I^ouise, 126\\nThe Historic Windmill, 131\\nThe Old lyion, lyUcerne, 147\\nThe Old lyion at the Arsenal, Venice, 192\\nI^ord Byron s Palace, Venice, 196\\nPantheon, Rome, 242\\nStrada dei Sepolcri (Street of Tombs), Pompeii), 248\\nQuirinal, Rome, 259\\nNaples, General View, 281\\nPeasant Cart, Palermo, 283\\nInterior of Museum, Palermo, 285\\nArchimedes, 288\\nHead of Medusa, Palermo, 290", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND.\\n(HERE to begin That is the question.\\nThe ideas, thoughts, feelings, come, not\\nin battalions, but like the hosts of Alexander, or\\nour own, in the late unpleasantness,** or like\\nthe bubbles in the foam on the crests of the\\nwaves a moment here, then gone forever.** I\\nam wishing for the arms of Briareus, with their\\nhundred hands, to help catch and fix them on the\\npage. Such a trip The Atlantic was never\\nknown to exhibit such a peculiar turbulence\\nof waves and water generally. The steamer\\nAdriatic (in which we sailed April 6th) kept\\nup such a lurching and pitching as I never had\\nan idea of before. One day it was impossible\\nfor me to keep my feet, and after trying in\\nvain to dress in the morning, I retired to my\\nberth. But it was as much as the sailors could\\ndo to keep their feet, and three were badly hurt.\\nHow my friends would have laughed, could they\\nhave seen my frantic struggles to accomplish a\\ntoilette. The two steamer trunks** and our\\nhand satchels were chasing each other all around\\n(0", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "2 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nmc, and knocking wildly from one side to the\\nother, and I in the midst, shooting and slipping,\\nclutching and grabbing, wildly, frantically, at\\ndoors, berth and washstand* But I was so glad\\nnot to be seasick, I didn t mind anything else\\nmuch.\\nOne spectacle of this turbulence in the\\n*r-r-r-rolling forties,** as the chambermaid called\\nour bearing (I wish I could give that whirr of\\nher r s), was of peculiar and extraordinary sub-\\nlimity and uniqueness* It kept me at my port-\\nhole for I know not how long. The steamer\\nwas sweeping right along in an immense hollow,\\nor crater as it were, in the ocean, and in which\\nwas comparative calm. Afar off the water rose\\nin encircling ranges of vast mountains ^Alps\\nupon Alps** capped with white foam. From\\nthese snowy cones, like the eruptions of volcanoes,\\nburst forth in swift succession great columns of\\nthe seething mass that shot upward apparently\\nto the very heavens and exploded.\\nI did not know at the time that this was\\nunusual, but in speaking of it afterwards found\\nit had not been observed by the other passengers\\n^all or the most of whom were seasick nor\\nhave I since met with any traveler who had\\never seen it; nor read any description of it.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. 3\\nWe had a lovely Easter Sunday on the\\nbroad Atlantic. The captain presented me with\\ntwo Easter eggs prepared expressly for me as a\\ntestimonial of my good seamanship. I was\\nnever seasick. The device was a white star\\nand the name of the steamer Adriatic. I was\\nthe only lady thus honored. We had a pleasant\\ncompany: R. H. Dana and his wife (a daughter\\nof Longfellow), two charming ladies, relatives\\nof Longfellow, a Unitarian minister and his\\nyoung sister, all from Boston; and a Mrs.\\nBlake, from Canada. These were the parties\\nwe saw the most of, except Mrs. Dana, who\\nwas not well. Mr. Dana was one of the most\\nattractive and interesting persons I ever met,\\nthe kind that has the effect of a flash of sunlight\\ncoming into a room. One of the ladies was a\\nUnitarian, and that brought us together. The\\nminister was going to attend a Unitarian con-\\nference of the English Unitarian Church, which\\nmet at Liverpool, April J 8th. She and I consti-\\ntuted ourselves delegates at large, and decided to\\nattend. We landed Sunday, the J 6th, remained\\ntill afternoon, attending church at an old cathedral\\nof some note; then lunching at the Northwestern\\nHotel, and away we came to Chester.\\nHow much do you know about Chester", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "4 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nPlI take for granted all its history. The ^old\\ncathedral city and the ^^old walled city^^ is\\nthe way the guide-books speak of it. I walked\\nits two miles of wall^ well-preserved, picturesque,\\nand commanding lovely views. I mounted one\\nof the towers on it, called King Charles the\\nFirst^s, because from it he watched the fatal\\nprogress of the battle of Rowton Moor. I looked\\nout of the very queer little windows from which\\nhe watched. The old woman who shows it is\\nas bright and keen of tongue, if not as incisive,\\nas Mrs. Poyser. She said she liked Americans,\\nand always enjoyed their visits, and that they\\npaid her every year a most extraordinary honor.\\nJust think of a whole country celebrating your\\nbirthday 1 Would n*t you feel honored That *s\\nwhat you Americans do.^* She said it with\\nmischievous, snapping eyes. Of course I took\\nin in a moment that the Fourth of July was her\\nbirthday. *Ah, I replied, and to think of fifty\\nmillions of people doing all that honor, and not\\nknowing what they are doing.** Fifty millions\\nof people She came right up to me, and her\\nlook changed to amazement **what a grand\\ncountry it must be I I told her it was too bad\\nher name was unknown, and she must give it to\\nme. Mary Huxley.* I said.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND, 5\\nWhy, Mary Huxley, you Ve a very good name,\\nAnd I m sure I think it a crying shame\\nThat it is not better kncwn to fame.\\nYou ought to have seen her delight* She\\ntalked to me down to the very last step, after\\ngiving me **a, hearty grip** by way of good-bye.\\nThen I saw Chester Cathedral, where\\nHugh Lupus, nephew of William the Conqueror,\\nis buried. On Sunday night, some of us at-\\ntended service there, after which there was an\\norgan recital, a very fine performance* Next\\nmorning, all five of us went down into the\\ndark, damp, crypts. The amount of exquisite\\ncarving in it is something wonderful. I am not\\ngoing into the age and size of it and all that.\\nGo to the library and get a book on English\\nCathedrals and Cathedral Towns and read, and\\nthink that that is what your correspondent is\\nseeing. Another one is St. John s Church, still\\nmore ancient, with its abbey, a lovely ivy-\\ncovered ruin. I could not bear to leave it.\\nAnother feature is the old castle now used as\\nan armory and barracks. The hands of the\\nRomans have left many evidences of their work\\nhere in the wall, the columns still standing in\\nplace of some kinds of fortifications. The old\\ntown is full of queer things, and has a wierd", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "6 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsort of fascination; among these **the Rows/\\na succession of arcades built on the roofs of\\nancient triangular-shaped houses. The hand-\\nsomest shops are in them. The neighborhood\\nhas the honor of containing Eaton Hall; the seat\\nof the Duke of Westminster. We visited it,\\ndriving and walking all over its splendid walks,\\nand gardens, and lawns, and parks, and getting\\na first-rate look Into the palace. We could not\\ngo inside, because it was full of workmen finish-\\ning the inside ornamentation. The grounds are\\nten square miles in extent. There were immense\\nconservatories, full of the rarest flowers and\\nplants. In one I saw the Egyptian lotus floating\\nin full bloom in an immense tank. The head\\ngardener was our guide. He was a very intel-\\nligent person, well-mannered and pleasant and\\nclever, because he gave me a handful of flowers\\nand broke off a nice little branch from a cedar of\\nLebanon, brought from the Holy Land expressly\\nfor the place. He gave us a great deal of infor-\\nmation about the family; among other things\\nhe told me the Duke was not handsome, but a\\ngood man. He spoke with emphasis.\\nThe Dee winds through those miles of acres\\nand is spanned by a number of bridges. The\\nvillages of the tenantry are pretty and looked", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. 7\\ncomfortable. I saw deer by hundreds in the park.\\nWe returned to Liverpool, and remained two\\ndays in attendance on the conference. A num-\\nber of the leading men were there, and we heard\\nthem speak and preach. There were Armstrong,\\nCarpenter, Sir Thomas Hayward and others.\\nThey were fine-looking men, and extremely in-\\nteresting. The audience was as enthusiastic\\nand demonstrative as that of our Methodist\\nConferences.\\nFrom Liverpool we whisked away to Rows-\\nley Station, Derbyshire, to the Peacock Inn, the\\nquaintest manor-house, now doing duty accord-\\ning to its name. The object of this was to visit\\nChatsworth, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire,\\nand Haddon Hall, a lovely unused ruin, belong-\\ning to the Duke of Rutland. The country in\\nevery direction was a vision of beauty a sea of\\nliving green ^bespangled with flowers as thickly\\nas the floor of heaven is inlaid with stars or in\\nDerbyshire, breaking up into great cliffs, show-\\ning the beautiful stone which is so generally\\nused in building. The grounds of the inn were\\nwashed by the Derwent, a winding stream of\\nexceeding beauty.\\nWe made an early start in a wagonette for\\nChatsworth. It was an ideal day the Spring", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "8 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nin full burst, with that delicate film of blue mist\\nthat always makes me think of a veil, to enhance\\nits charms the whole way a succession of pic-\\ntures vales, swelling uplands, far hills, the Der-\\nwent in its curious curves* We were speechless\\nand exclamatory by turns.\\nChatsworth is a palace, in the midst of its\\nthousands of acres cultivated and adorned in\\nevery possible way; its exquisite lawn laid out\\nin innumerable gardens in Italian, Alpine, Ger-\\nman, French, and ever so many other styles;\\nits wonderful conservatory designed by Sir\\nJoshua Paxton, who modeled the Crystal Palace\\non the same plan, as you no doubt know; and\\nthe gorgeousness of the long suite of show\\nrooms. The rooms of course are filled with\\nall that the money and taste of its long genera-\\ntions have accumulated the rooms in them-\\nselves, for their noble dimensions, rich, tasteful\\nand expensive finish; and their lovely views of\\nstream, lakes, meadows, forests, and lovely\\ndistances. I saw the hangings of a state bed-\\nstead worked by Mary Queen of Scots, and the\\nCountess of Shrewsbury; the rosary of Henry\\nthe Eighth; and some portraits of the beautiful\\nduchesses that have distinguished the house\\n(though not Georgiana); and some splendid", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND.\\npieces of statuary. I shall never forget Canova s\\nEndymion, and Thorwalsden s Venus. The\\nguide went round the grounds by my side and\\nproved himself a most agreeable fellow telling\\nme all the family gossip I cared to know. I\\ndare not attempt to get it all in here, though\\nFve a misgiving you^d rather hear it than all\\nthe rest. I may as well tell you that I always\\nkeep close to the guide and it pays. They are\\nalways the head, or one of the gardeners, and\\nare a constant astonishment to me for their good\\nmanners, choice language, as well as their\\nintelligence.\\nI asked if the heir, the Marquis of Hart-\\nington (leader in the House of Commons), was\\nhandsome; he laughed merrily, shaking his\\nhead, *No indeed, he is very plain, and you\\njust ought to see him slouch around here. This\\nis the way he walks and he gave an illus-\\ntration to my infinite amusement. Only he and\\nI were together, the rest were lagging a wide\\ninterval behind.\\nThe deer park has two thousand acres and\\neight hundred head of deer. We saw several\\ndifferent herds of one hundred each, perhaps\\ntwo hundred.\\nNext by a short drive, to Haddon Hall on", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "10 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\na hill overlooking as fair a scene as eye would\\ncare to dwell on. A soft drab stone, time-\\nstained and worn, moss and ivy covered, it is\\nan immense pile built around a quadrangular\\ncourt, with its ancient rooms sufficiently well-\\npreserved to show in what state it was kept away\\nback in that romantic age. The grand ban-\\nqueting hall, with antlers for ornaments, its old\\ntable in the upper end, with the same old benches,\\nboth worm-eaten; besides this the dining hall\\nfor daily use, wainscoted to the ceiling in heavy,\\ndark oak panels, and a great round table; the\\ndrawing-room with its arras, hangings said to\\nbe of the fourteenth century, the bed-rooms hung\\nin the same way the dancing saloon one hun-\\ndred and ten by seventeen feet wide, with its\\ngrand stained windows, and a bust of one of\\nthe countesses taken after her death. I went up\\nPercival tower and stood on it looking down\\ninto the inner court (the quadrangle) and off\\nover the landscape, and trying to imagine **the\\nolden time.*^ There is a door opening on to\\nan avenue of yews with alterrace and steps\\ninto a walled flower garden with a postern gate\\nin the wall, outside which are steps leading to a\\nbridge across the moat beyond which lies an\\nexpanse of open meadow, and a pretty story", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "PQ", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. U\\nsays the loveliest daughter of the house stole out\\nthis way to off and away/ with her young\\nLochinvar/ he and his steed awaiting her at\\nthe hither side of the bridge* The little boy\\nwho opened the postern for us, said in answer\\nto us This is the gate, and them s the steps,\\nand that are the bridge she crossed to the oss/\\nFrom the Peacock next a.* m, to Stratford-\\non-Avon! Next day was Sunday, and the\\nbirthday of Shakespeare. Think of my spend-\\ning it at his birthplace It is almost too much\\nto rea]ize. The first afternoon we walked to\\nsee his birthhouse (just the outside), the hall\\nwhere Garrick s present stands, and the bridge\\nover the Avon from which is a pretty view of\\nthe church where he lies. The morning found\\nus all fresh and ready for church. There was\\nfine music and a full congregation. You know\\nthe whole service is intoned in the English\\nChurch. When the vicar went to his desk for\\nthat I dreaded to hear a word, fearing it would\\nnot be in harmony with the day. It proved to\\nbe the best sermon I ever heard from the Epis-\\ncopal pulpit, indeed an inspiration. After the\\ncongregation was dismissed we asked permission\\nto enter the chancel to see the grave, and I had\\na collection of the flowers he knew so well to", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "J2 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nlay upon it. It was against rule^* to let any-\\none in at that hour, but the vicar instantly and\\ncourteously accorded us this as soon as he knew\\nwe were Americans. I knelt and laid the\\nflowers by the inscription. The painted bust\\nis just above the grave. I did not like it. It\\nlooked both beefy and beery. Too much so\\nfor my ideal of him who the vicar had just said\\n*^was the greatest poet and perhaps the greatest\\nbeing that ever lived.*^ It was the 3 1 8th anni-\\nversary. No wonder he chose Trinity for\\nhis last resting-place. It is a beautiful situation\\non the Avon, and from the street you walk up\\na long avenue of lime trees, on either side of\\nwhich are the graves of centuries. We stayed\\nthree days at Stratford, and to-morrow we go,\\nas the great Cardinal went, by easy roads to\\nLeicester;** we are going to London.\\nMay 1st. We came here Saturday, after\\nsuch a two days in that ancient university\\ncity,** Oxford, as I hope most fervently I shall\\nrepeat in extenso. It was from one extreme en-\\njoyment to something beyond! I stepped into\\nthe university founded by Alfred the Great, a\\nhuge mass of time-stained and somewhat crumb-\\nling marble. I went through ChHst College, first\\ninto the kitchen. The very best time you could", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "?d", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. 13\\nhave come/* said the usher. Dinner was in full\\nprogress! The room is a cube of forty feet.\\nSuch a baronial banquet preparation I never saw.\\nThe oldest relic is the door leading into the court,\\nwhere the fuel is kept, heavy, black, battered,\\niron-bound oak. From the kitchen to the refec-\\ntory, with its splendid array of pictures. Going\\nout under the tower, we heard ^old Tom* ring\\nout the hour in his sonorous tones. To Mag-\\ndalen College to see the chapel with its wonderful\\nimmense window in brown sepia, three hundred\\nyears old, representing the day of judgment, and\\nits reredos extending from the floor to the ceiling\\nand from side wall to side wall. Then to Ad-\\ndison s Walk, the loveliest, most sequestered,\\nserpentine, and then long great vista of greenery,\\nbound on either side by lovely streams and wide\\nmeadows edged with pollard willows. To New\\nCollege, with its rival chapel and great window,\\ndesigned by Sir Joshua Reynolds, representing\\nFaith, Hope, and all the virtues mentionable.\\nAnything more exquisite than Hope was never\\nfashioned by man. The window is made, it is\\nsaid, of the finest stained glass in the world. We\\npassed by the church where Amy Robsart lies.\\nAt Warwick we saw the magnificent tomb of\\nher cruel earl, and the effigy of himself and third", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "H BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nwife, carved and colored, reposing thereupon^\\nOn to the Bodleian Library, with its treasures\\nof books, rare old manuscripts, ancient illumin-\\nated works; I can^t enumerate its treasures, but\\none of the most curious and interesting was some\\npapyrus rolls from Herculaneum, showing the\\nscorch. Its picture gallery was a perfect fascina-\\ntion, with its portraits and busts of a long array\\nof historical persons whom we have admired,\\nreverenced, loved, and hated, all our lives* It\\nwas all an aggravating rush from one thing to\\nanother, that one wanted to hang over and study\\nand steep the whole being in. I would go to the\\nAshmolean Museum to see a few things Al-\\nfred s jewel, a priceless treasure, the chatelaine\\nwatch of Queen Elizabeth, in turquoise and gold,\\nwith the chain formed of charms in different de-\\nvices two of hair. I wondered if either was\\nher own. Cromwell s watch right beside hers,\\nheavy, thick, not very large, but looking as if it\\nwas meant to stand all the battering of the man s\\ncareer. One of the most interesting of all the\\npersonal trifles shall I call them ^was a kind\\nof charm worn by John Hampden in the civil\\nwar. This was the motto\\nAgainst my king I do not fight,\\nBut fof my king and kingdom s right.*", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. \\\\5\\nThere is not a spot in Oxford that is not\\nenchanting. We staid at the Mitre Hotel/\\nthe oldest house in the city. Our room was\\nwainscoted to the ceiling, which was divided\\ninto three compartments by rich and pretty pan-\\nels in rich flowers. I did not like to leave it,\\nthough walking its floors was a feat of dexterity\\nworthy of being chronicled, they were so sunken\\nand irregular. We came whizzing through the\\nloveliest lowland country, saw Windsor in a\\nmisty veil of light rain, and all at once we were\\nin Paddington Station, in the cab, rolling through\\nLondon streets and directly at our ooarding\\nhouse. We are delightfully situated. Sunday\\nmorning we heard Spofford Brooks. He is just\\nacross the street. In the afternoon I went to St.\\nPauFs to hear Canon Liddon. I was all eyes,\\nif not ears. That splendid pile swallowed me\\nup, mind, body and soul. And now with the\\ndin and clatter of four female tongues sounding\\nin my ears, I will close this rambling epistle.\\nL. G. C.\\nGfosvcnof Hotel, Chester, April J 7, J 882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM LONDOR\\nEAM still in this grandest city of the globe*\\nEvery day seems a fresh era in life, each\\nhour ushers in new and more delightful experi-\\nences. I am confirmed in my opinion that this\\nlittle island/ but mighty kingdom of the earth,\\nis to be more to me than all the rest, and that\\nmy plan to spend the season** in London was\\nthe very best I could have had* Indeed that\\nwas the one feature of this trip entirely clear to\\nme. For the rest, I had a general outline to\\nmake headquarters of each of the great art\\ncenters, and let the gods provide the goods. No\\ndoubt I shall adhere to this in a way. Governor\\nChamberlain, who was here last year in August,\\nsaid he could not have believed it would make\\nsuch a difference to be here in the season.** I\\nthink you know the months of May, June and\\nJuly constitute that elect time. Well, I have had\\nas perfect a time as one could have in my way.\\nOf course, there is that other that means being\\npresented at court, and getting into society, the\\n(16)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. \\\\7\\nfirst being the easier of the two! I have not\\nhankered after either* There are some whom\\nI have long admired, it would be a beatitude to\\nknow, such as the Earl of Shaftsbury, now\\neighty-one, whose whole life has been devoted\\nto good and noble works (just last Tuesday he\\npresided at the opening of a bazaar in behalf of\\na benevolent project), and the Duke of Devon-\\nshire and his family, Gladstone, John Bright and\\nsuch* Alas! ^^they are a pitch beyond my\\nflight,*^ and so I am content to let all go* What\\nI have drunk deep of is the great institutions\\nchurches, galleries, the Tower, Parliament\\nhouses, hospitals, etc*\\nThe boarding house in which we are is\\nkept by English people, just for Americans, and\\nforeigners. English people do not board; it is\\nnot good form with them. The host, a very\\nintelligent, affable gentleman, and his wife, a\\nbright, kind, out-spoken lady, say they have\\nknown no Americans that have seen London to\\nsuch advantage.^* They evidently regard us\\nwith great respect.\\nTuesday was a glorious day. We spent\\nit at Windsor, were all over the palace shown\\nto the public, on the terrace, saw the gorgeous\\nAlbert Mausoleum, and St. George^s Chapel", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "18 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwith its exquisite monument to Princess Char-\\nlotte, the most perfect piece of sculpture I ever\\nsaw, and also the touching monument to the\\nPrince Imperial, with his recumbent statue on\\nit, a good likeness in pure white marble. It\\nseems to me quite probable, since seeing it, that\\nPrincess Beatrice may have been in love with\\nhim. From Windsor we drove through Eaton,\\nand a beautiful English lane to Stoke Pogis to\\nsee Gray^s grave and the church and graveyard\\nof the Elegy The little church is the most\\nexquisite little gem I ever saw. I wish I dared\\ngive you a full description of that day, but it\\nwould take a ream of paper.\\nWell, this is Sunday evening. I went to\\nhear Moncure Conway this forenoon at his own\\nchapel. I was so much interested, more than I\\nhave been by any one I have heard but Canon\\nFarrar. You may have heard him when he\\npreached in Cincinnati. You may not agree\\nwith or approve of his views, but one cannot\\nhelp being greatly interested and instructed. He\\nhas a scholarly look the bowed head, that trick\\ncaught by bending constantly over books and\\nwriting, and a lively, expressive countenance,\\nthe kind that shows the effect of constant asso-\\nciation with high thoughts and noble sentiments", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. J?\\nand lofty aspirations. He is in the best sense a\\nteacher. I saw Mr. and Mrs. Taft there, and\\nmy friend Miss cried out, Don^t you want\\nto go back and speak to them As we were\\nin our carriage, and it was raining, I concluded\\nto forego the pleasure. They are on their way\\nto Vienna. It is rather pleasant to know so\\nmany Americans are around, even if you don t\\nget to speak to them. We have a fresh supply\\nof Bostonians. They are all chattering round\\nthe fire like so many daws my companions du\\nvoyage helping their level best. They come and\\ngo, come and go, all the time. We often find\\nourselves laughing at large parties ^Oh! look\\nquick; there they are, another lot of our country-\\nfellows.** They go about in gangs and every-\\nbody seems to recognize them at once as\\nAmericans.** I can*t tell how they, the English,\\nknow us but it is very easy for us to distinguish\\nthem. Their voices and pronunciation are very\\nmarkedly different. All have a kind of abdom-\\ninal pitch and intoning that are very pronounced.\\nI have found some relatives here, people\\nwho settled in England two hundred years ago,\\nwhen my branch of the family emigrated from\\nHolland to America. They are as purely En-\\nglish as I am American, and this is the first", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "20 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nmeeting since the original separation. One of\\nmy newly-found cousins is in the Somerset\\nHouse, where he has a government office, and\\nhe would show us *^what it contained of inter-\\nest. It is a government building, registering\\nmarriages, births, deaths, keeping records, etc.\\nThe way he made us skip round and up and\\ndown and through long corridors in upper stories,\\nand deep down in almost the bowels of the earth,\\nwas good for our circulation if not for our feet.\\nIt was just going through a vast library, for all\\nthese things are kept in volumes bound in Russia\\nleather and shelved and catalogued. He invited\\nus for Tuesday evening to meet a party of rela-\\ntives and special friends he wished me to know;\\nso I am counting on something of an introduction\\nto English life. Thereby is a romance, our meet-\\ning, etc. but of this another time.\\nWell, our time is up, and on Wednesday I\\nhave arranged to leave for our Scottish tour.\\nThis takes up the eastern side of England,\\nthrough York and Durham to Edinburgh, where\\nwe shall spend a week. Thence through the\\nTromcho* and lakes, Caledonia canal, Inver-\\nness and back to ^*Auld Reekie/* where we shall\\nexcursion to Abbotsford, Jedburg, and next\\nTrossachs.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM ENGLAND. 21\\nGlasgow and Ayr, and down through western\\nEngland by the English lakes ^Windermere,\\nConiston, etc., back to London. We may go\\nto Wales, or leave that out for the present and\\ngo to the Isle of Wight, and so across the Chan-\\nnel to some place in Brittany or Normandy,\\nwhere we have booked ourselves for a month.\\nJ^. Vj. v^.\\nLoadon, June H, }882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "FROM LONDON TO EDINBURGH.\\n(E LEFT London on the momingf of\\nthe i4th, after a seven weeks sojourn^\\nand, I must say it, one of perfect delight and\\nsatisfaction. Old Londoners could not remem-\\nber a more charming season; the weather\\ncalled forth rapturous comments, the city was\\nfull of attractions, the best and at their best, a\\nmost fortunate conjunction; and ^*all the world\\nseemed peopling its palaces, crowding its hotels,\\nthronging its temples of art and pleasure, and\\npushing its way through the packed streets, to\\nenjoy them. Believe me, it took a stout wrench\\nto break away from all that. But as we said\\nto our hostess in response to her amiable\\nurgency to detain us yet longer, **Dear Madam,\\nhow shall we see the world, unless we move\\non f\\nA four hours railway ride brought us to\\nYork, where we stopped over till next after-\\nnoon to see the Minster, the walls and the ruins\\nof St. Leonard s Hospital and St. Mary s Abbey,\\n(22)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "LONDON TO EDINBURGH, 23\\nand the ancient city in toto/* The sun shone\\nfor us in most lavish brilliancy, and we went\\nafter lunch to the Cathedral, spending an hour\\nor more wandering through it with the verger\\nall to ourselves** (which we always account\\na peculiarly good piece of luck, as much inter-\\nesting information is to be gained, when he can\\ngive you undivided attention).\\nWe stood long before each of the great\\nwindows, too rapt in admiration, it must be\\nconfessed, to give due heed to the great budget\\nof details our guide was so kindly pouring out\\nfor our benefit. The Five Sisters was the\\nfirst that arrested us, consisting of five lancet-\\nshaped lights, fifty-four feet high by thirty wide.\\nIt was presented by five maiden sisters, who\\nworked the patterns first. They must have had\\na busy time of it, and I am glad I was not one\\nof them, but am one who has had the privilege\\nof enjoying their pious handiwork. Next the\\nwest and east windows, the first about the size\\nof the Five Sisters,** the latter said to be the\\nlargest in the world. As to the exquisite beauty\\nof each, that is unutterable. We lingered and\\nloitered in nave and choir and transept, till long\\nafter the sun had set, and then walked back to\\nour hotel, a palace fit for any queen this world", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "24 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nhas ever throned the views from its great French\\nplate glass windows Victoria might be glad to\\nclaim. The next morning we attended choral\\nservice, and gave the entire forenoon to that\\nsplendid seat of Episcopal magnificence. From\\nthere we went to the ruins, both being in the\\nsame inclosure, a large tract laid out in beautiful\\nwalks and far-stretching expanses of lawn, with\\nclumps of trees here and there, and beds and\\nborders of flowers. I wish I had time to tell\\nyou how old these crumbling structures are, and\\nthe various fortunes to which they have been\\nsubjected. Suffice it that both are older than\\nthe time of the Conqueror, which surely would\\nseem ancient enough.\\nIn the afternoon ^we were most reluctant to\\nstick to our program,** and go on to Durham,\\nbut we did. We had a reminder of home on the\\nway in an hour*s stop at Newcastle-on-Tyne\\nas coal begrimed as Pittsburgh. I was glad to\\nleave it behind, and find fresh, clean air coming\\ninto my lungs as it vanished from my sight.\\nWe ran into Durham in good time for a climb\\nto its Cathedral, unequaled in situation on a\\nhigh hill/* Again we had a verger all to our-\\nselves, and he proved a fellow with some wit.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "LONDON TO EDINBURGH, IS\\nwith all his overwhelming stock in trade of\\ncathedral knowledge in architecture,\\nI was so hoarse I could only croak^ but too\\nathirst for knowledge to let that hinder. So, as\\nI said something to this effect, Tell me about\\nthat ^the book I have does not tell anything,\\nthough I got the best I could find ^with the\\nmost mischievous smile he burst out, I think\\nyou got something worse, have n^t you We\\nwere fast friends from that moment till I bowed\\ngood-bye next day crossing his willing hand\\nwith the inevitable silver shilling. You have\\nread all about this cathedral; that it is a splendid\\nexample of Norman, early English, transitional,\\nand perpendicular styles in its different parts;\\nthat St, Cuthbert is its patron saint, and his bones\\nrest here; maybe, remember how his monks\\n**Froni sea to sea, from shore to shore.\\nSeven years Saint Cuthbert bore.\\nAnd after many -wanderings past.\\nHe chose his lordly seat at last,\\nWhere his cathedral htsge and vast\\nLooks down upon the weir;\\nThere deep in Durham s gothic shade\\nHis reliques are in secret laid.\\nBut none may know the place,\\nThat was long ago, and now even I know\\nthe place,** I stood upon the flagstones that cov-\\nered it Bede is buried there, so I have to tell", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "26 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nyou that I leaned upon his tombstone and read\\nthe inscription:\\n**Hac sant in fossa Bedae venerabilis ossa,**\\nand recalled the story of the monk^s worry over\\nhis hexameter, his lucky nap, and the opportune\\nhelp of that convenient angel, who fixed it up\\nall right while he slept the sleep of the right-\\neous* I saw the carved image of the Dun Cow,\\nfrom which it got its name. I am not so sure that\\nlegend is so familiar to you. It took hard work,\\ninnumerable questions, search and research, for\\nme to get hold of it, quaint and simple as it is.\\nIn that seven years* quest for a resting-place for the\\ncorpse, the monks had stopped with it at a place\\ncalled Ward Law, from which they could not\\nmove it, it seeming fastened to the ground. This\\nset them all praying to know where they should\\ntake it. The answer to their prayer was, Dun-\\nholme* (Durham). As they were searching\\nabout in great perplexity, they heard a woman,\\nwho was looking for her stray cow, call to her\\nneighbor, asking if she had seen it. The cry\\nback was: ^*She is at Dunholme.** Behold I\\nthis quest was ended. And the cow is a beauty\\nof the kind that makes one wish she could be\\ndriven home into his own pasture, to be a pos-\\nsession forever.** She stands sleek and serene", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "LONDON TO EDINBURGH. 27\\nin her niche in the outer wall, and seems to fol-\\nlow you with a watchful gaze as you pluck\\nbuttercups and clover-blooms, lineal descendants,\\nbeyond a doubt, of those on which her prototype\\nfed in the spacious close beneath hen\\nWe tarried atop that green hill and in those\\nsacred precincts, till the fainter day that is far\\nfrom twilight, though the sun is long gone,\\nwarned us of the late hour. Such an evening\\nas we had in ancient Durham a dirty hole in\\ngeneral, as a little Scotch boy wrote of it in\\nJ 820. And a little American woman verifies it\\nto-day. First, a street concert by Highlanders\\nin full national costume, with their screeching\\nbagpipes. They ended and vanished. Then\\ncame trooping by a large body of the Salvation\\nArmy, with their leader, a woman, facing her\\nforces and keeping time with a stick to their\\nsinging. She looked like a wild creature, and\\nthe spectacle was one more conducive to specu-\\nlation than to admiration. As their frantic\\nstrains died away in the distance, a sweet, clear-\\nringing child voice burst forth. It soared up to\\nus like a lark,\\nSinging as it soars and soaring as it sings.\\nWe opened our windows and saw a young\\nboy standing in the street alone and without any", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "2S BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ninstrument, singing with an absorption that\\nmade him oblivious to his surroundings. He\\ndid not even notice the fall of the pennies for\\nwhich he was singing, till a woman, who had\\nstopped to hear him, gathered them up and put\\nthem into his hands.\\nWe felt as if we were listening to an incip-\\nient Brignoli. He went too. At eleven o^clock,\\nthe daylight not yet merged in night, we fell\\nasleep to harp music, played by a band of Gypsies\\nin most picturesque garb. We hurried to the\\ncathedral next morning for choral service,**\\nand heard some fine music, which attuned us to\\nour loitering among its ancient memorials. After\\nsome hours inside we came out] into the lovely\\nday, and strolled off for a walk. From the crest\\nof the hill on which the cathedral is built to the\\nwater*s edge its wooded sides are laid out in\\nbeautiful shady walks. There we wandered,\\nkeeping up a running fire of exclamations at the\\nbeautiful broken views, gathering now a wild\\nflower, now a fern, or stretching up for a leaf\\nfrom the masses of thick foliage on the trees\\noverhead. How the hours shot by Atop of\\nthe hill again, we found our way into a castle,\\nin close neighborhood to the cathedral, a charm-\\ning old piece of antiquity, with its stores of rare,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "LONDON TO EDINBURGH. 29\\nold curious things. I could fill a quire of old-\\nfashioned letter paper and not do half justice to\\nit. So I shan^t say anything more about it, but\\nshut both eyes and mouth and get away from\\nDurham, already grown fascinating enough to\\nmake me wish I could live in the shadow of that\\nancient pile with its **gothic shade.*^\\nOur route hither lay for the most part of the\\nway along the coast of the German ocean. The\\nwhite breakers burst right beneath us some-\\ntimes, sending their roar to our ears. Away off\\noccasionally glimmered a dream-like sail, or a\\nphantom stretch of smoke from some passing-\\nout-of-our-world vessel. Near enough for a\\ngood view we saw,\\nMarkworth, proud of Percy s name,**\\nvery literally a castle by the sea,*^ as it seemed\\nas if washed by its waves. The country land-\\nward was prettily rolling and laid off in fields\\nof grain and pasture. Great flocks of sheep\\nspeckled the latter. A Scotch lady got into our\\ncompartment when we were still some miles\\nfrom Dun Edin.^ She was very companion-\\nable and pointed out all the features of note as\\nthey came in sight.\\nThe sun as it went down was a great\\npuzzle to us it seemed to be setting in the east.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "30 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nand we could not get it to fit the points of the\\ncompass stowed away in our craniums. You\\nsee it did not set till nearer nine than eight\\no^cIock, and that gave it time to get almost round\\nto where it had started from! The Scotch\\nwelcome quite won our hearts. We had written\\nand engaged rooms a week before, so knew we\\nwould be expected. The landlady and three\\ndaintily-arrayed maids were in the hall, and the\\nformer, Mrs. Campbell, stepped forward and\\ntook our hands, with the sweetest-voiced wel-\\ncome! We felt at home at once. Just here I\\nthink I must give you a list of the people collected\\nunder her roof ^tourists, here for a day or weeks,\\nas may chance: an Episcopal High Church\\ncurate, from Wales; a Mrs. Smith and her\\ndaughter, from Australia; a Mr. Bruce, from\\nthe Cape of Good Hope (he was there when\\nStanley went there with the remnant of the host\\nthat made the trip with him Across the Dark\\nContinent ^0; a Mr. Masters and wife, from\\nanother part of South Africa, he an emigrant\\nfrom Yorkshire and she a native born, but the\\ndaughter of an emigrant; a lady who resides in\\nOxford and is enthusiastic about it as a place of\\nresidence; two young ladies from the south of\\nEngland; another two, sisters, from London;", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "LONDON TO EDINBURGH. 31\\na Miss Gurley, a Scotch maiden lady, a great\\ntraveler and linguist, and altogether charming.\\nShe had been to the United States and Canada,\\nthree times* While in the United States, she\\nwas the guest of Bishop Potter. She belongs\\nto Edinburgh, is living across the Firth, among\\nthe hills of Fife, not far from royal Falkland.\\nAdd us three Americans, and I think it could\\nbe called a mixed household, indeed.\\nL. G. G.\\nEdinburgh, July 4, 1882,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "EDINBURGH.\\njE spend our days as usual, sightsee-\\nThe first place we sought was\\nHolyrood Palace. It is not palatial compared to\\nWindsor, Hampton Court, and the situation is\\nnot a cheerful one low, in a kind of a hollow.\\nI can imagine it oppressively gloomy to a young\\ngirl of nineteen, just from gay and sunny Paris,\\nand one of the ornaments of its brilliant court.\\nIn the picture gallery there is a lovely, full-length\\nportrait of Mary; but there is a still lovelier pic-\\nture of her at the castle. I saw her apartments,\\nher hzd with its faded velvet hangings, that are\\nslowly dropping to pieces too; one of her paintings\\non marble, much chipped and defaced, showing\\nno little merit; a piece of her embroidery in a\\nglass case; the little mirror hung on the wall\\nshe doubtless took much pleasure in seeing her\\nfair face in; the small supper-room, with its\\ncloset, where the dreadful murder of Rizzio was\\nbegun, and the splotch of blood on the landing\\nat the head of the stairs, where it was finished.\\nHow well we seem to know all about her\\n(32)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "Mary Queen of Scots, Edinburgh,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "EDINBURGH. 33\\npoor queen, unfortunate and to be pitied, even if\\nas wicked as her worst enemies think. At the\\ncastle, on the hill that springs up in the very\\nheart of the city, another suite of Queen Mary s\\napartments is shown, in one of which her son\\nwas bom. The situation of the castle is incom-\\nparably fine. It overlooks the entire city and a\\nwide and varied range beyond. Ben Lomond\\nand Ben Ledi show themselves to the north-west,\\nand on a fair day the Pentland hills lie low and\\npurple in another direction; the Firth carries the\\ngaze with it to the sea in the east, and it is dotted\\nwith pretty islands, and its thither side is bounded\\nby the misty shores of Fife. This same view is\\ncommanded by Arthur s Seat and Calton Hill.\\nArthur s Seat is the highest point everybody\\nand every guide-book says so, and I know it\\nfrom experience f having climbed its 823 feet. We\\nmake all kinds of excursions in the environs, and\\nfind it the easiest thing in the world to keep up\\nour ecstasies.\\nAlexander Swift says, Every true Scots-\\nman thinks Edinburgh the most picturesque city\\nin the world. No wonder. It certainly\\npossesses every feature requisite to constitute\\nthat preeminence hill, crag, castle, rock, blue\\nstretch of sea, the picturesque ridge of the old", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "34 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ntown, the squares and terraces of the new*^\\nthe quaint streets with their ancient houses\\npeaked and jagged by gable and roof, and\\nwindowed from basement to cope with those\\nsmall diamond-paned sashes that seem meant\\nonly **to make darkness visible/* and yet other\\nstreets of a later and more stately architecture\\nthe No/ Lock converted into a dreamland of\\npark and gardens; the splendid monuments\\narresting the eye in every direction to recall the\\nillustrious dead and give proof of the appreciation\\nand taste of the living; the hills, crags and\\nslopes that stand dressed in living green/* and\\nthe squares and terraces a mass of verdure and\\nflowers all these and more are the charms of\\nthis ^*Edina, Scotia^s darling/ Add to them\\nthe innumerable resorts, historic, beautiful,\\ngrand! Oh I everything all around in every\\ndirection, and one s sympathy leaps forth to meet\\nthat of every Scotsman/*\\nNow, shall I tell you what a Bohemian\\nI have grown to be? Perhaps you will be\\nshocked, but really it is the most fascinating life\\nconceivable, and not to be condemned untried.\\nWe go where, and when, and ho w we please;\\nen grandes dameSf in the conventional splendor\\nof full dress and the swellest turnout of the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "EDINBURGH. 35\\nstand, this always under protest/* Oftener,\\nwe set our own locomotives to the way and\\nfind unsuspected Edens. But oftenest and to\\nmy hearths delight, we mount to a super-royal\\nperch atop of the **tram/* as the street car is\\ncalled here, and **view the landscape o*er** at\\nsuch advantage as no crown or throne can com-\\nmand. And that*s the way we went to Morning\\nSide, Edinburgh s Clifton, and to Portobello, its\\nsea-bathing resort. Don t be alarmed though;\\nwe are not setting a fashion, only following one\\nalready established. If only this mode of travel-\\ning were practicable for everywhere. Alas!\\ninstead the railway comes in to sadly curtail the\\nenchantment of views. We had to submit\\nto it in order to see Roslyn Chapel, that ideal\\nmorceau of architecture, that exquisite efflores-\\ncence of solid rock, that chapel of chapels, one\\namong ten thousand and altogether lovely.\\nFirst we struck through Hawthorden, a wall^\\nof three miles, beginning with an ordinary park\\nthat quickly led to an ivy-mantled ruin, hung\\non the very brink of a beetling crag, the rock-\\nribbed foundation of which dropped almost sheer\\nto a swift and clamorous stream two or three\\nhundred feet below. In this underlying base-\\nment of rock, queer caverns had been hewn, but", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "36 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nfarther back than dates reach. We explored\\nthem notwithstanding some hesitation, which,\\nhowever, gave way to the liveliest enthusiasm.\\nIn one we came across a sword of Robert Bruce\\nin an open wire case* The meshes were about\\nan inch in length; by counting them I found\\nthe sword measured fifty-eight inches* I won-\\ndered how much taller the warrior was than his\\nweapon of warfare! Leaving these caverns\\nwe were soon descending a path that brought\\nus to the edge of the stream and then ran along\\nit the rest of the way. Anything wilder or\\nmore beautiful is rarely met, but I have seen\\nTrenton Falls in my own native land, and it\\nsurpasses. Climbing the hill again at the end\\nof the three miles we reached the chapel. An-\\nother day we spent at Dunfermline. In the\\nAbbey we stood on the grave of Robert Bruce;\\nit is right under the pulpit. In the ancient and\\nlong-disused, but well-preserved, nave we saw\\nthat inexplicable caprice or trick of architecture,\\none of the great Norman columns that scanned\\nfrom one place shows the upper half much\\nsmaller than the lower from another, the reverse\\neffect, and from yet another, a pillar of perfect\\nproportion. The ruins of the old palace and\\npart of the abbey are very touching and beauti-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "EDINBURGH* 37\\nfuL It too has a den/* as every deep wooded\\nand rocky glen with a stream running through\\nits dark length is called* We sat on the rustic\\nseat under a grand old tree and looked at the\\nruins and moralized, raved over the vistas,\\nshadows, flashing sunlight and munched our\\nlunch. Saturday we skimmed away on the\\nwings of the delicious morning as well as the\\nwings of steam to Dalkeith and Newhattle Abbey\\nto spend the day between the two* The former\\nis the favorite seat of the Duke of Buccleugh,\\nthe latter that of his son-in-law, the Marquis of\\nLothian* The ducal palace is positively ugly;\\nbut it has its complement of grand state apart-\\nments filled with fine pictures and the usual\\nquota of superb articles of vertu and bric-a-brac*\\nNewbattle Abbey is a charming home* Its\\npark boasts some rare old trees, among them a\\ngiant beech that is *^a monarch of the forest*\\nverily, measuring twenty-three feet in girth*\\nThursday we start on our excursion to the\\nHighlands; it will take a week* We shall\\nreturn here for a fresh departure. Then look\\nout for another half quire of this moving matter*\\nL* G. C*\\nEdinburgh, July 21, J882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG.\\n^N Heidelberg. Think of it! What an\\nenergetic idler I am grown I The Neckar\\nlies a pistol-shot from my windows high hills\\nrise on the thither side, looking so home-like\\nMaysville home, like Mr. W.*s, where you came\\nonce upon a time. When my glance darts out\\nthe windows and rests upon them, suddenly I\\ncatch my breath, and I am not sure whether it\\nis pain or pleasure I feel. Half way up they are\\ncultivated, but the tops are wooded. Just over\\nmy head the old castle looms up among the trees.\\n*^The Gardens** of this pension where I am\\nlead right up to it. I shall climb to it to-morrow\\nfor the first time. Reached here day before yes-\\nterday, late; got settled yesterday for a good\\nrest; shall stay here till the latest season for\\nSwitzerland; then it and on to Munich for\\nanother rest.\\nHere s **a, mere mention** of where I have\\nbeen since I wrote from Edina, Scotia*s dar-\\nling.* From there to the English lakes we\\nsaw ten each lovelier than the last. I wish you\\n(38)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "o\\no\\n3\\nc\\nEI\\n^^^^^^IH^I\\nif -^tIv\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2^^^^^I^H\\ni^iiiB", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG. 39\\nwere within sound; how I would rave to you!\\nThen ruins. Fumess Abbey and Fountain s\\nAbbey, both beyond Melrose, and Dryburg in\\nsome respects. London for a week (where we\\nparted). Then to Rochester for its cathedral,\\ncastle (a ruin) and Gad*s Hill, Canterbury.\\nOh! Oh! Oh!\\nDover, Ostend, ^*The Belfry of Bruges,*\\nGhent, Brussels, seeing the king and queen\\ngratis, Antwerp, The Hague, Rotterdam (the\\nloveliest and liveliest of them all), Amsterdam,\\nCologne, Bonn, and a pilgrimage to the graves\\nof Niebuhr and Bunsen, Coblen^, Mayence\\nfrom Bonn to Mayence being the grand Rhine\\ntrip. The castled crag of Drachenf els,* and\\ninnumerable other castled crags, sometimes as\\nm.any as three in sight; the Lurlieberg; the\\nsweet, song-famous Bingen; the world-wide\\nknown wine district, Rheingau, whence come\\nthe costliest wines in the world Johannisberger,\\nReiderheimer, Steinberger, etc. I saw the Schloss\\nJohannisbergers crowning a lovely vine-clad\\nknoll, the entire vineyard or vineyards com-\\nprised in forty acres. The Schloss is a very\\nextensive chateau, but ugly; belongs to Prince\\nRichard Mettemich, and yields a neat little in-\\ncome of \u00c2\u00a38,000 ($40,000). Some of our tobacco", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "40 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nacres do almost as well We climbed the pre-\\ncipitous rock on which the majestic fortress of\\nEhrenbrietstein is situated. It is opposite Co-\\nhlcnZf and we crossed the Rhine to reach it on\\na bridge of boats* I saw three bridges of this\\nkind* I guess they have been handed down\\nsince Caesar^s time. I could not find out their\\nspecial merit. They are not particularly strik-\\ning just a number of boats, sharp at both ends,\\nside by side, with the solid flooring and railing\\nof any bridge.\\nThe view from the fortress is one of the finest\\non this glorious stretch of seventy miles, and I was\\nglad to see it.\\nI wish I could lend you my eyes for a few\\nminutes, so you could see what I saw. You *d\\ncome over and see it all, if it cost you that farm\\nyou spoke of in one of your letters, or another\\nbook!\\nL, G. C.\\nHeidelberg, August 15, 1882,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERa\\nAM just home, this is *^home^ for the\\npresent, from a week s delight at Nurem-\\nberg. Delight/* how feeble that sounds. En-\\nchantment, fascination, the absorption that makes\\none lovingly linger and loth to come away. It is\\nthe quaintest, most charming old city, I verily\\nbelieve, that the sun shines on. From its streets,\\nsometimes wider, sometimes narrower, but\\nalways crookeder, to its curious houses with\\ntheir high-peaked gables and red-tiled roofs, with\\nregular rows of such funny hooded windows\\nlet into them, and the upper stories all cut up\\ninto the most lavishly ornate towers, balconies,\\nand sculptures; from its ramparts with towers of\\nvarious forms at intervals, and its dry moat,\\nthirty-five yards wide and thirty-five feet deep, to\\nthe river running through and dividing the town\\ninto nearly equal parts, spanned hy old and his-\\ntoric bridges from the churches, museums and\\ngalleries filled with the masterpieces of Durer,\\nKraft, Stoss and Vischer, to the shops with their\\nbewildering medley of carvings in wood and\\n(41)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "42 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nivory, and castings in terra-cotta, bronze and\\nbrass, by the thousand nameless artists of to-day\\nfrom oh everything to everything. Just leave\\nall the rest of Europe out if you can t get it and\\nNuremberg in. Think how you*d feel to see a\\nlime tree planted by Queen Kunigunde in the\\nyear 1002! or a lamp that has never been\\nallowed to go out since it was first lighted in\\n1326 or a wedding in the Rathhaus! I saw\\nthem all. And saw besides, the Crown Princess\\nand her daughter, and was not struck blind by\\nthe sight I And there was a great exposition in\\nprogress, and yesterday the anniversary celebra-\\ntion of the victory at Sedan. The exposition\\nwas a grand and most artistic spectacle; and all\\nUnited Germany* a spectacular display of\\nmultitudinous flags, and processions enlivened\\nwith human huzzas and band music I wish I\\ndare tell you the half I saw, or a tithe of the\\nravishment of mind and soul wrought by that\\npicturesque, haunting, old ancestral city of mine.\\nMy great grandfather went to America from it.\\nDid I ever tell you Do you wonder I could\\nnot bear to tear myself away I am going back\\nsome day if I have the ghost of a chance.\\nTo-day I have been resting; too tired for\\nchurch, for anything but this careless scamper", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG. 43\\nover a sheet of paper. Had an interruption in\\na call from some Cape Colony English ladies,\\ntourists as we are, whom we met at Inverness\\nand went with to the battle-field of CuIIoden;\\nand again at Dunkeld. My traveling compan-\\nion, Miss S of Boston, struck them quite\\nunexpectedly again yesterday on the **Old\\nBridge that crosses the Neckar, which I think\\nI called Maine in my last to you. They are very\\nagreeable, and their party consists of the mother\\nand five daughters. Well, I do think the sheets\\nof paper of the present day have the most lim-\\nited capacity. I am not half begun and this is\\nused up Pshaw 1\\nL. G. G.\\nHeidelberg, September 3, 1882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "BADEN-BADER\\nm\\nIs a reward for your reformation I write\\n_J to you on this precious sheet* You\\nsee I have come to be wonderfully attached\\nto Heidelberg, the beautiful, the quaint, the his-\\ntorically poetic, learned and picturesque old town\\nontheNeckar* It seems like another home. So\\nI could not show my appreciation of you in a\\nmore complimentary way than by sending this\\nlittle series of pictures* Have you ever been\\nhere, I wonder You did not say, but you wrote\\nas if you knew it by sight as well as by heart.\\nAs I cannot know, I will venture an explanation.\\nThe panorama speaks for itself. Put on your\\nspecs and look at the castle, half way up the\\nBerg^ the Jettenhuhl, a wooded spur of the Ko-\\nnigestuhl** Look at it from the **Terrasse.\\nThus you *I1 get something of an idea of it. The\\nGesprente Thurm is the one that was blown up\\nby the French. The thickness of the walls,\\ntwenty-one feet, and the solid masonry, held it\\nso well that only a fragment, as it were, gave\\nway. It still hangs as if ready to be replaced.\\n(44)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "BADEN-BADEN, 45\\n^Das Grosse Pass Gebaude/* too, you will have\\nno difficulty in making out. If you only had it\\nwith its 49,000 gallons of wine, but would n^t you\\ndivide with your neighbors I The columns in\\nthe portico that shows in the Schlosshof are the\\nfour brought from Charlemagne^s palace at In-\\ngelheim by the Count Palatine Ludwig, some\\ntime between 1508-44, The Zum Ritter has\\nnothing to do with the castle, but is an ancient\\nstructure (1592) in the Renaissance style, and\\none of the few that escaped destruction in 1693.\\nIt is a beautiful, highly ornamental building, and\\nI wish you could see it, if you have not seen it.\\nAll the above information, I heg you to be-\\nlieve, I do not intend you to think was evolved\\nfrom my inner consciousness, but gathered from\\nthe nearest guide-book I\\nI am so much obliged to you for mapping\\nout Switzerland to me. I have been trying my\\nbest to get all those passes* into my brain.\\nNow, thanks to your letter, I have them all in\\nthe handiest kind of a bunch. Ariel like, **P1I\\ndo my bidding gently,* and as surely, if I get\\nthere. But there are dreadful reports of floods\\nand roads caved in and bridges swept away and\\nsnows and enough of such exciting items as\\nsets one thinking **to go or not to go?** We", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "46 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nare this far on the way. Reached here this aft-\\nernoon. Have spent the evening sauntering in\\nthe gardens, the Conversationhaus, the bazaar,\\nmingling with the throng, listening to the band,\\nand comparing what it is with what it was. It\\nwas a gay and curious spectacle, but on the\\nwhole had ^*the banquet-hall deserted look.\\nThe situation is most beautiful. It lies, you\\nknow, at the entrance of the Black Forest,\\namong picturesque, thickly-wooded hills, in the\\nvalley of the Oos, and extends up the slope of\\nsome of the hills. The Oos is a most turbid,\\nturbulent stream; dashes through part of the\\ntown with angry, headlong speed. There is an\\navenue along its bank of oaks, limes and maples,\\nbordered with flower-beds and shrubberies, and\\nadorned with fountains and handsome villas.,\\nWe shall devote to-morrow to seeing all there is\\nto be seen, and go to Strassburg to-morrow eve-\\nning for two or three days. From there to Con-\\nstance, and then hold our Council as to further\\nmovements.\\nL. G. C.\\nBaden-Baden, September 19, J882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "FROM HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG.\\na\\n[]UST after I last wrote I left my compan-\\nions to worry along over their German\\nlessons/^ and ran away to Nuremberg. A very\\npleasant party was going there on the way to\\nVienna, and wished me to go along. Of all\\nGermany, divided or united, Nuremberg was\\nmy objective point; for in addition to its special\\nattraction as ^*the most perfect surviving speci-\\nmen of mediaeval architecture in Europe/ it has\\na nearer interest to me in that it was the home\\nof my father s paternal ancestors, as far back as\\n1570. So I went with alacrity. We left Heidel-\\nberg at the reasonable hour of 10:50 a. m.\\nThanks to the moderate form of tourist life I have\\nadopted, neither the hours of my beauty sleep\\nnor that last supreme forty winks of the\\nluxuriant morning sleeper, are ever interfered\\nwith. Our way lay up the Neckar, and as the\\ntrain left the Carlsthor it glided literally glided,\\nthe rate of speed not exceeding from twelve to\\nfifteen miles an hour, and it **the fast train, too\\nalong the bank of the river, under an avenue", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "48 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nof trees, giving ample time for one to take in\\nviews that one might delight to shut her eyes\\nand recall in the dreamland hours of some future\\nparadise* There were cone-shaped, beautiful,\\ncastle-capped mountains, the long winding valley\\nwith the river showing in many a lovely curve\\nand shoot; village after village, in the mellowest\\ntints of Indian red, brown, and drab, gathered\\naround its church or chapel, almost every one\\nwith an amazing tall spire ranges of wooded\\nhills that came together in one direction, or re-\\ntreated from each other in another, disclosing\\nwonderful vistas; and the weather! One\\nmoment a burst of sunlight; the next a veil of\\nfleecy white clouds that changed into the mistiest\\nblue; presently a dash of rain; then the brilliant\\nclearing up again. Thus continued both views\\nand weather to Heilbronn, forty-two miles.\\nThere are two historic points, Wimpf en am Berg,\\nwhich occupies an old Roman station destroyed\\nby the Huns under Attila; and Sinzheim, where\\nTurenne gained a victory in 1674. I own their\\nhistory was not half so interesting to me as their\\nbeauty. From Heilbronn to Nuremberg, over\\na hundred miles, the country was one great\\nstretch of farming land, fine soil, and admirably\\ncultivated.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG. 49\\nWe ran into Nuremberg in a pelting rain.\\nAll the hotels full After being turned away\\nfrom five, with the most proper apologies be it\\nsaid, we found lodging, but no rations except\\nbreakfast, at a private house. This was duly-\\nserved coffee, rolls, butter and eggs, the last raw/\\nFancy our amusement. Having left our names\\nat the various hotels for the first vacancy, next\\nmorning the Golden Eagle found a place for us\\nbeneath its sheltering wings. We were fortunate\\nin the time of our visit^a grand exposition was\\nin progress. Nearly all of united Germany,**\\nas well as little Bavaria,** seemed thronging\\nthe hotels and crowding the streets. The Crown\\nPrince and his family occupied two hotels. The\\nexposition continues, and is really a superb\\nattraction. As for the quaint, picturesque old\\ncity itself, I cannot believe there is another so\\nfascinating. From its streets, sometimes wide,\\noftener narrow, always crooked; its houses,\\neight and ten stories high, with their lofty-peaked\\ngables and red-tiled roofs, with five or more tiers\\nof the funniest little windows; its churches,\\nmonuments, and repositories of the best produc-\\ntions of that brilliant constellation of workers\\nDurer, Kraft, Vischer, Stoss and Hirschvogel\\nwho lived and flourished there together; its", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "50 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nshops, tempting with pictures, carvings, castings,\\nand ^toys; its museums, that it would take\\ndays to tell you about; its curious old bridges\\nspanning the river Pegnitz, that divides it into\\ntwo parts the fortifications, consisting of a\\nrampart running round the entire old city, with\\ntowers at intervals, and a dry moat, thirty-five\\nfeet deep and as many yards wide; its old berg,\\nor castle, that rises on a lofty sandstone rock\\nwith ^Hhe wide extended prospect*^ from its\\nwalls and windows, and the old lime tree in the\\ncourt, planted hy Queen Kunigunde somewhere\\nfrom J 004 to 1024; to the cemetery where Durer\\nis buned, with its singular, but the most impress-\\nive monuments, plain, massive, low monoliths,\\nwith large plates inserted in the tops bearing the\\ninscriptions. From first to last, everywhere and\\neverything, the old town, all alive with the\\nquickest beating of the pulse of the nineteenth\\ncentury, was a delight and wonder.\\nDo not dream of a half description of any-\\nthing; there was too much for one pen too\\nmuch for a thousand pens. But you never saw\\nlions, life size, made out of soap, did you Or\\ntemples, pagodas, monuments of every design,\\nmade out of buttons, matches, tacks, not mere\\ntoys, but big enough for out doors", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG. 51\\nAmong others of these artistic and archi-\\ntectural structures, was a tall shaft monument\\nof tobacco, fine-cut, twist, stem, and leaves,\\nlabeled fancy my heart-throb on reading\\nMaryland,** Virginia,** Kentucky/* And\\nthese are some of the innumerable sights I saw\\nat the exposition. What else did I see\\nPussy-cat, Pussy-cat, -where have you been?\\nI have been to London to see the Queen.\\nI saw the crown princess and her daughter\\nI looked at them and they looked at me took\\nme in as they did the shop-windows, trees, what-\\never came within the sweep of their roving\\nglance just as I did them Such a plain, in-\\nsignificant little party as they were The crown\\nprince was not with them. Just two ordinary\\nopen carriages, the princess in the first, with her\\ndaughter by her side; in the other, a lady and\\ngentleman in attendance. They came out from\\na shop of carvings fust as We were approaching\\nit to enter. And I saw a wedding at the chapel\\nof the Rathhaus (town hall) Neither the bride\\nnor groom was on the sunny side of forty. She\\nwas dressed in a rich heavy black silk, with a white\\nillusion head-dress, that was voluminous enough\\nfor a veil, though evidently not intended for one.\\nThe ceremony was apparently a simple civil", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "52 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nservice, conducted by the magistrate, or what-\\never he was, and an assistant* The bridal party\\nwas accompanied by one person only a gray-\\nhaired old gentleman.\\nHow the days sped by I The first thing I\\nknew, ere I was half ready to leave, my last day\\nhad come. I bought a package of Nuremberg s\\nfamous gingerbread, and bidding my pleasant\\nparty good-bye,** most reluctantly betook my-\\nself to my home-bound train. Traveling, as I\\nwas, alone, I was put in the special ladies*\\ncar, Fuer Damen,** as it is labeled. Presently,\\nanother lone female was put in, who proved\\nto be a young German lady. I began to stumble\\nin German to her. She smiled, and replied in\\ntolerable English, it being one of the five lan-\\nguages of which she was in a manner mistress\\nand she was just beginning the sixth I I have\\nso much time,** she said simply, in explanation\\nof such learning. She was educated in Geneva.\\nIf she is an average example of its pupils, Ge-\\nneva*s schools must be indeed desirable. And\\nthe next thing I knew, our five weeks at Heidel-\\nberg were gone, and it was time to **move on**\\nagain.\\nWe started for Munich via Baden-Baden,\\nStrassburg and Switzerland an attractive pro-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG, 53\\ngramme, but not less did it hurt to say another\\ngood-bye to the pleasant friends we had\\nmade ^the beautiful Pension, which had come\\nto have a real home feeling; the romantic an-\\ncient university town/ and the grand old castle,\\nboth Longfellow-haunted to me; and to the va-\\nrious charming places in the environs become\\nalmost as familiar as the favorite haunts of child-\\nhood. Our bright little Fraulein, whose dainty\\nmotions made one think of a bird s, said in her\\nvery best English: **You must tired once more\\nget, and soon again come home/ Her eyes were\\nbrimming with tears. The good frau mother\\ntook me in her arms, and in German fashion\\npressed each of my cheeks against each of hers.\\nIt was a most charming family.\\nWe spent a night at Baden, the great Spa\\nthe ex-gambling hell the beautiful city that has\\nrisen from its degradation and put on robes of\\ninnocence. This is due to the efforts of the pres-\\nent and the preceding grand duke, both men of\\nexceptionally noble characters, and warmly hon-\\nored and loved. The former prosperity and\\npopularity given by the seductions of the gam-\\nbling bank have been succeeded and surpassed\\nby attractions of a different and higher kind.\\nInstead of the dreadful fascinations of the Cur-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "54 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsail, the palatial Friedrichsbad, said to be the\\nmost complete bathing establishment in the\\nworld, offers the healing and luxury of its ther-\\nmal and mineral baths. It takes its name from\\nthe reigning grand duke, who was its chief and\\nmost intensely interested projector. But his wise\\nexertions and princely tastes have apparently\\nknown no restrictions. They have been shown\\nin the erection of other magnificent buildings, in\\nthe laying out and exquisite adornment of public\\nparks and promenades indeed in doing every-\\nthing possible to render Baden not only a de-\\nlightful summer resort, but suitable for a perma-\\nnent home.\\nIt is provided with theaters, balls, fine music,\\nscientific lectures, etc. The results justify his\\nefforts and sagacious foresight. Wealthy families\\nof rank all over Germany are making it a home.\\nDo I seem to dwell on Baden and its grand duke\\nWell, I may as well admit, all the homage I am\\ncapable of is evoked by such a man and such a\\nwork. I have his photograph and many little\\npictures of his Baden Have you ever read in\\na way that impressed you to remembrance of\\nthe beautiful situation of Baden The highest\\ncompliment that can be bestowed, as the guide-\\nbook says, is this: **It vies with Hiedelberg.*^", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG* 55\\nIt lies among picturesque wooded hills^ at the\\nentrance of the Black Forest, on the Oehlbach;\\nit is on the right bank of the stream, and runs\\nup a slope of the Battert/^ the summit of which\\nis crowned by the New Schloss, one of the\\ngrand duke^s residences. It has a Saratoga look.\\nHaven^t all watering places a close kin look?\\nBut it has its own foreign look too, and distinct-\\nive features, even from those of Weisbaden, its\\nrival.\\nOn the left bank of the Oos the well cor-\\nrected Oos,*^ as I have seen it called somewhere,\\nbecause it has been confined for some distance\\nbetween high stone walls are the pleasure\\ngrounds, the Conversationhaus (the old Cur-\\nsaal), the Trinkhalle on one side of an open\\nsquare, full of avenues of shade trees, and in one\\ncomer of which is the gay and fanciful Music-\\nKiosk,*^ where the band plays, and the Lichten-\\nthale Allee. This last is an avenue of vanishing\\ndistances,** of lime trees, oaks, maples, flower-\\nbeds, shrubberies, fountains, and all kinds of\\nornamental seats scattered through it. The Oos,\\nthe most turbid, turbulent strip of a river, dashes\\nalong as if in a perfect fury at those confining\\nwalls. The walls themselves, though, are a\\nspecial feature of the rare loveliness that meets", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "56 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nthe glance on every side; they are so festooned\\nand draped with vines one can scarce more than\\nguess at the stones so veiled. The Virginia\\ncreeper was so in excess the river seemed rush-\\ning between a running fire of crimson flames.\\nIt was indeed exceeding beautiful/* In the\\nevening we walked in the brilliantly lighted\\nsquare, peering into the gay shop windows, stop-\\nping to listen to the band, mingling with the\\nthrongs of well-dressed people, and bringing up\\nin the great saloon (fifty-four yards long and\\nseventeen wide) of the Conversationhaus for a\\nrest and a study of the novel scene. Finally we\\nstrolled through the two old gambling saloons\\n(the Landscape and the Italian) and ever so\\nmany others, and lost ourselves in admiration\\nof the beauty and comfort. The next day we\\nspent in driving to the Old Schloss, six miles\\nfrom town, on a high **berg,** and to all the\\npoints of most interest. The Old Schloss is a\\nvery romantic old ruin, and commands the finest\\nviews around Baden, From it we went to the\\nNew Schloss, and were shown through a num-\\nber of handsome saloons and the apartment of\\nthe grand duke and duchess. It was such a\\nperfect little gem of an apartment that I must\\ngive you a peep into it, A comparatively quite", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "HEE)ELBERG TO NUREMBERG. 57\\nsmall oblong room^ with two doors opposite each\\nother and in the middle of each wall* One end\\nof the oblong was a dead wall, the other a large\\nbay window of the loveliest stained glass, in pic-\\ntures of all the choicest points about Baden.\\nOnly the center pane was plain glass; it too,\\nthough, framing a lovely view of the scene out-\\nside. The doors were rather doorways, being,\\nI should think, ten feet high by four wide, all\\napparently one solid magnificent mirror. As one\\nsteps across the threshold, himself or herself is\\nbeheld before, behind, on either hand, overhead,\\nin infinite repetition. The French custodian\\nmade merry in showing off this ingenious and\\namusing trick of reflecting surfaces. After this\\ncame the Friedrichsbad, with its innumerable\\nvarieties of baths, the Trinkhalle and a glass of\\nits steaming water, and and other things too\\nnumerous to make mention of,^* to quote from\\nour old town crier.\\nWith decided reluctance we set our faces\\ntoward Strassburg, where, to be sure, we wished\\nto go, but we did not feel ready to leave Baden.\\nWe spent two days at Strassburg. You\\nknow there was the grand Cathedral, with its\\ngrander clock, to see, the fortifications, some fine\\npublic parks, and the immense Alsatian bows", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "5Z BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwith the women attached, besides a lunch on\\nthe famous local dish, pates de foie gras. I cir-\\ncumnavigated the Cathedral, loitered through\\nand through it, and finally sat down before the\\nclock at the stroke of eleven, to watch it through\\nthe next hour. I saw the little boy come out\\nand strike his quarter and disappear, the youth,\\nthe middle-aged man, the old man; and then\\nthe grand midday procession of puppets repre-\\nsenting the Apostles, pass before another puppet\\nrepresenting Christ, making fitting reverence, all\\nbut that dreadful Judas, who turned his back on\\nhim. The cock, too, performed beautifully,\\nflapped his wings and stretched out his neck,\\nand crowed a sure-enough chanticleer crow,\\nloud enough and cheerily enough to waken the\\nsoundest sleeper and make the laziest willing to\\ncreep out of bed. The little angel turned his\\nhour-glass, the show was over, and I came\\naway very much impressed with that wonder\\nof mechanism which has been running and\\nregulating itself ever since J 842, and is calcula-\\nted to do this for an unlimited number of years.\\nAnd don^t you think I did right to shut my ears\\nand refuse to listen to a young Yankee *PauI\\nPry,*^ recently from a six months^ sojourn in\\nStrassburg, who wished to make me believe", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "HEIDELBERG TO NUREMBERG. S9\\nthere was a man behind performing a la the\\norgan-grinder The Alsatian bows were a per-\\npetual feast of fun, but as a feast of the palate\\nonce is often enough for me of the pates de f oie\\ngras.\\nFrom Strassburg through the Black Forest\\nby rail was a run of 728 miles* We had a\\nseries of thirty-eight tunnels in succession* The\\nvery foundation rocks of the earth seem to have\\nbeen blasted and dug through to make this\\nadmirable road; the round charms of which\\ncould not be summed up in a Summer day^s\\ngossip.\\nL* G. C*\\nMunich, September 27, J 882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "LETTER FROM MUNICH,\\nJjADEN was perfect in its way, and we\\nleft reluctantly. We did** it quite thor-\\noughly ^had a six mile drive to the Old Schloss,\\na fine old ruin, on top of a high hill, with beau-\\ntiful views of bergs, valleys, and the town.\\nThen a visit to the New Schloss, one of the\\nresidences of the Grand Duke. We were shown\\nthrough some noble apartments, which I ^11 de-\\nscribe to you in detail when we meet. We went\\nto the Trinkhalle and drank some of the stream-\\ning water. The others made faces, but I did not\\nfind it unpleasant. Then through the great\\nFriedrichsbad, the principal bath-house. I believe\\nit furnishes every kind known to science or de-\\nsired by either suffering or luxurious humanity.\\nAnd so on. At Strassburg, the Cathedral with\\nthat wonderful clock The half has not been\\ntold,^^ and it does not begin to come up to the\\nreality. The way that cock flaps its wings,\\nstretches its neck and crows is enough to make\\nall created cocks die of envy. At St. Thomas\\nChurch, with its magnificent monument to Mar-\\nshal Saxe; and its most singular chapel, con-\\n(60)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 61\\ntaming the bodies of the Duke of Nassau\\nand his daughter the former embalmed, the\\nlatter a slowly crumbling skeleton both dressed\\nin the very clothes they wore I cannot imagine\\na more ghastly and singular spectacle than that\\nof each lying there in an air-tight coffin, the\\nentire top of glass, thus allowing a full view.*\\nYet it was not revolting to me, except as the\\ndead were made a spectacle of. I gazed at them\\nwith an equal fascination and reverence. We\\nwere much interested in the fortifications, great\\nnumbers of soldiers and their drilling.\\nAnd we did not fail to indulge in the Strass-\\nburg specialty of pates de foie gras. I was re-\\nminded of a criticism on a juvenile composition\\nof mine by one who knew how not to withhold\\nthe wholesome truth Its individuality is not\\nsufficiently palpable.* At Constance we held\\nour Council,** and the reports from Switzerland\\nbeing very unfavorable, decided to put it off to a\\nmore auspicious season.\\nConstance is a most charmingly situated\\nand attractive little city. We stayed at the Insel\\nMy memory is in a fog, but I think it was beneath this monu-\\nment I had just read these words of comment Baedeker says the\\nold gent when I was ruthlessly hurried away j and now^ I shall\\nnever know what Baedeker said. All the same, I feel sure Young\\nAmerica was the irreverent commentor.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "62 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nHotel, the old monastery, in which Huss was\\nimprisoned, you know; and I saw the cell in\\nwhich he was confined. It was underground,\\nand its walls were washed by the waters of the\\nlake, I set my feet on that white spot in the\\nslab of the nave of the Cathedral where he stood\\nwhen he was condemned to be burned at the\\nstake. You remember it is said to remain dry\\nalways, even when the rest is wet. Finally, we\\ndrove to the stone that marks the place where\\nhe and Jerome suffered that dreadful sentence.\\nIt is a pile of rocks, all overgrown with ivy and\\nother vines, except where slabs show through\\nbearing commemorative inscriptions.\\nFrom Constance to Lindau we had an en-\\nchanting sail over an emerald sea, with many a\\npretty village gleaming along its shore, like a\\nwhite swan on her reedy nest f and then green\\nhills, that soon turned into denser clouds, as it\\nwere, and directly, almost in a flash, the snow-\\ncovered Alps\\nRailway from Lindau here; and such a\\nsuccession of pictures! Long, green valleys,\\ndotted with picturesque villages; chains of\\nwooded knolls; ranges of dark, pine-covered\\nmountains, overtopped in places with a vast\\njumble of cones snow-covered Alps again, that", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, 63\\nshone in the sunlight like molten silver I Words\\navail little toward reproducing such a panorama*\\nOnly one^s own eyes can do it even the faintest\\njustice* I hope you have seen it, or, if not, will\\nsome day sooTt.f before you grow an old man.\\nHave had a long, lazy, inconsequential, just-\\ngoing-anywhere-I-pleased stroll this perfect after-\\nnoon* The sky is without a fleck; the air crys-\\ntal clear the sunshine just that happy mingling\\nof warmth and bracing quality that makes mere\\nanimal existence an ecstasy* I could have walked\\nto the uttermost ends of the earth in it* The\\nstreets are wide, clean, admirably paved, hand-\\nsomely built; fine houses of beautiful designs ki\\na soft, creamy-white stone* Parks, gardens,\\navenues, open squares, trees, flowers, grass, and\\ngrand monuments are innumerable* I felt as if\\nI were under a spell of enchantment* What a\\nplace to shrink from was indoors I stayed\\nout till the very last moment*\\nWhat a city indeed is this Munchen, the\\ncapital of pretentious little Bavaria I Think\\nof the days of delight before me in its vast halls\\nof art I am sure you will, and with an added\\ninvocation out of your kind heart for whatever\\nelse may be good for me. L* G* C.\\nMunich, September 24, i882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "MUNCHER\\nHIS moment finished the second reading\\nof yours of 22d\u00c2\u00bb Ah! there are some\\nthings you don^t have any conception of; for\\ninstance, you don t know how good it is to get\\na letter from home in a foreign land. I do.\\nOh! Oh! Oh!\\nI came in from the opera, Beethoven s Fi-\\ndelio/ in German, in a.** rapt ecstasy/ and, in\\nthe act of seating myself at our after the play\\nlittle supper, I saw your letter lying on my plate.\\nI am intuitive; I knew it was from you. I\\npicked it up and laid it down with the address\\non the under side. What would Goggles\\nsay to that? No; he is not a woman; he is\\nnot Miss S The French have a proverb\\nthat runneth in this wise: **La patience c est la\\ngenie. K it had been wisdom those keen little\\nepigrammatists would not have missed it so.\\nHowever, I do not wish to discourage you in\\nthe exercise of that passive virtue; rather let it\\nwork its good and perfect work. Miss S\\nnot Goggles, then said: Why are you not\\n(64)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "MUNCHER\\ngoing to read your letter; will it keep?* Of\\ncourse I blushed and hung down my head and\\nsimpered, and but youVe seen the process\\nmany a time. Now, what would you %iivz to\\nknow how soon I got through with that dainty\\nmeal, and hurried away to be all alone to my-\\nself/ to pore over the letter that confessed to two\\nlove letters to another woman. It does not\\nneed you or anybody else to convince me I am\\nthe superarchangelic creature I was reported to\\nyou. I know it myself now 1 See how good\\nI am to write at this late hour, not finding it\\npossible to put you off to that will-o -the-wisp\\ntime, **a, more convenient season. And so\\nglad of the love letters; not jealous a bit, be-\\ncause they went where I want them to go!\\nDon t worry in well doing, effuse, flow\\nlike the lava, let all the currents of your being\\nset that way, and so come into possession of\\nthat great estate which all the kingdoms of the\\nearth cannot match a noble woman nobly\\nplanned. Oh, please, I did not write those\\nletters for any one but my sister-in-law. She\\ncut them up, and pieced them together again to\\nsuit them to print. After they were published\\nshe wrote what she had done, begging my for-\\ngiveness, but making such an appeal in behalf", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "66 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nof the paper I not only could not condemn, I\\neven had to tell her she might do as she pleased\\nwith my letters to her, only my name must not\\nbe knoivn in connection with them. You fairly\\nfrighten me when you speak of them in the same\\nbreath with your friends Mr.W and E. A/\\nIndeed, I feel timid about writing to you, since\\nyou have such letters as theirs. Only, we write\\nto each other for the simple fun of the thing,^*^\\nnot giving much heed to anything else, don^t\\nwe? And, on the whole, I hail from *^OId\\nKaintuck,^ and that doesn^t mean cowardice\\nin any direction exactly\\nI wish you could have been with me in\\nNuremberg my heart city. You M have seen\\nthings too all that I did not see and between\\nus there would not have been much left behind.\\nI am going back there some day ah! that\\nmisty future it may be as the children are cred-\\nited with saying, though I never heard them,\\nbefore soon,*^ and it may be when I die and\\nam resurrected there. This Bavarian soil has\\na curiously homey tread. I can easily see how\\nI might linger here, maybe for years, maybe\\nforever.** So much to do; so many places to go\\nto so much to see such food for thought, im-\\nagination, for dolce far niente. You know the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "MUNCHER 67\\nkind of pabulum that witching state of existence\\nclaims^ but who can describe it I am tempted\\nto give you **2l sample day** out of this wonder\\nlife in Munich. Do I count egotistically when\\nI admit I count on your caring for it, because I\\ncount on the interest of friendship Did I tell\\nyou to expect and excuse repetitions Think\\nhow many letters I write, and every one wishes\\nto hear everything, and I try not to disappoint.\\nWe are fortunate in pensions. I am on\\nMaximilian Platz, and my windows look out\\non, first, the Schiller Monument Platz, an ex-\\nquisite memorial platz, all to itself; a semi-\\ncircle, with a thick half belt of trees for the\\nbackground; in front an oval plat of grass,\\nbordered with a bed of flowers, in the center of\\nwhich stands the statue in bronze on a v/hite\\nmarble pedestal. Just in front of it, grown in\\nthe grass, is an evergreen wreath; beyond it\\nrise, above a thicket of trees in their rich Au-\\ntumn tints, the towers of the Wittelsbach Palace,\\nthe residence of Ludwig (grandfather of the pres-\\nent king) after his abdication, Brienner strasse\\non one side and Maximilian Phiz (a great semi-\\ncircular street) on the other. By the way, they\\nconverge, the latter here running into the other,\\nand thus making an end of itself, from a spacious", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "68 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nboulevard and driveway^ around which are\\nblocks of fine edifices in a cream-colored stone*\\nImmediately beneath my windows is a small\\ntriangular platz, a bijou of a beer garden, in\\ntrees and vines, a gorgeous mosaic of greens,\\ngolds, browns and scarlets, and bowers and ta-\\nbles, and chairs and shaded lamps, the kind that\\nmake moonlight.\\nWell, I begin the day with my breakfast in\\nmy own apartment, all alone* That^s the cus-\\ntom of the country, you know, not my indolence.\\nWith that spectacle to interest and claim my\\neager eyes, I shall give you day before yesterday.\\nAt JO a. m. Miss S and I went to the pal-\\nace, which means an entire square composed of\\nthree immense palaces the Konigsbau, the\\nAlte Resident, or Old Palace, and the Festsaal-\\nbau each occupying one side of the square;\\nthe fourth being filled up with the Court Chapel\\nand Court Theater. The greater part of all\\nthese is accessible, which makes so much to be\\nseen it has to be taken in broken doses,^* so zu\\nsagen. The Schatzkammer (Treasury) was\\nour objective point. We ran the gauntlet of\\nsoldiers on guard, a spacious court with a hand-\\nsome fountain, a kind of cloistered stretch with\\na wonderful grotto of shells, a maze of small", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "MUNCHER 69\\nante-rooms, till finally, in a state of perfect be-\\nwilderment, we were taken in hand by the\\nmajor-domo, who procured our tickets (a little\\nceremony requiring your cards and a silver\\nmark), and ushered us into oh Monte Christo,\\nthe Arabian Nights, that stately pleasure dome\\nthat Kublai-Khan decreed in Zanadu! We\\nwandered through them all. First, through a\\nlong gallery called the Stammbaum (Genealog-\\nical Tree), containing the portraits of the princes\\nand princesses of the house of Wittelsbach.\\nThe room itself is most attractive in gold, gilt\\nand white ornamentation, what space is left from\\nthe pictures a collection that any family might\\nbe proud of* At the end, Open Sesame,** and\\na great door flies back, and we enter. I wish I\\nhad Ovid^s pen, with which he wrote the de-\\nscription of the Palace of the Sun! Such a\\nblaze of diamonds and rubies, and pearls and\\nemeralds, and all the gems of the earth There\\nwas the Hausdiamant^ a monster brilliant **in\\nthe Order of the Golden Fleece;** and the Palat-\\ninate pearl, half black, half white; strings of\\nbuttons by the yard of diamonds, a central one\\nas large as a silver quarter, encircled by smaller\\nones; breast-plates, as it were, of pear-shaped\\npearls dangling from a mesh of diamonds;", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "70 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ncrowns of diamonds that had a blinding bril-\\nliancy; cabinets filled with vessels made from\\nrich stones and inlaid with the most precious\\nstones; a copy of Trajan^s Pillar it took the\\ngoldsmith twenty years to execute; and more\\nof such royal belongings than I could get into a\\nday s description.\\nAnd one thing not put down in the cata-\\nlogue: As I was standing transfixed by some\\nornaments in pink rubies and diamonds, over\\nmy shoulder sounded the tones of a woman s\\nvoice in American English. You ought to have\\nheard the suppressed fervor of my exclamation\\nunder my breath Oh, you blessed American\\ntongue 1 I turned to confront a most agreeable\\ncountrywoman, just as eager as myself for recog-\\nnition on that ground alone. I met her again at\\nthe opera to-night, and we had another chat. I\\nthink her husband is an artist, as they live in\\nFlorence, and he told me he had been over here\\nsixteen or seventeen years, and was longing\\nto get back home. On leaving the palace.\\nMiss S came home but I was n t half ready\\nfor indoors never am except at meal-times and\\nbed-time I So I wandered around the streets in\\nthe sunshine, looking in the shop windows and\\npicking up a picture here and there among", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "The Old Kaiser at Historical Window.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "MUNCHEN. 71\\nthem that of the **Vier Konige/* as the old\\nKaiser calls it, himself holding his baby great-\\ngrandson with as proud an air as if it was his\\nown first-born son, with his son and grandson\\non either side* Four living generations in the\\nsame picture is indeed a spectacle to be made a\\nnote of*\\nAnother picture was that including the em-\\npress, crown princess, and the young mother\\nherself holding her little king. It is a picture\\nbeaming with both pride and happiness. That\\nmust have been one of Iife*s happy moments\\none of the few supreme flashes of earthly felicity.\\nAnd on compulsion dinner, always in Germany\\na mid-day meal. I am a true Bohemian now;\\nbut I was a housekeeper once, and I don^t like\\nto derange the order of a household, so I am al-\\nways on time.^^ After dinner, out again by\\nmyself, Miss S having a German lesson.\\nFirst, a call at a book-store for a variety of Mu-\\nnich gossip. The proprietor is a handsome\\nyoung man cultivated, traveled, of good fam-\\nily his father being a captain in the army, and\\na very genial, well-mannered person. I drop in\\non him quite often. He has been all over the\\nUnited States, even to Cincinnati. I did not ask\\nhim about W As I sauntered out I do", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "72 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\neverything just as the whim takes me I thought\\nl*d have a droschke drive^ so I hailed one and\\nstepped in. Oh the earth, air and sky of these\\nMunich days 1 A whole week of them, too, of\\nthat kind that makes one exclaim, Mere exist-\\nence is a luxury/*\\nAfter awhile I dismissed it at the door of\\nthe Kaulhach Gallery. It is not a large one,\\nonly a large room, as full as it can hold of the\\nsketches and a few pictures of that popular Mu-\\nnich artist* It is on a retired street; a very\\npretty, tasteful building in a garden* A few,\\nfrom one to three or four persons at a time, were\\ncoming and going the hour and a half I loitered.\\nI am not going to bore you or any one with a\\ncatalogue or description of pictures, but one was\\nso beautiful and touching I want you to look at\\nit a moment through the lens of my pen. A\\ncity still in the shadow of the night; gleams of\\ndawn in the east; just floating up into the clear,\\nhigher air an angel clasping a little child in its\\narms, with only the words Zu Gott f* such a\\ncommon idea, so simply wrought out, but I could\\nnot get away from it.\\nThe sketches were intensely interesting.\\nSome were outlines with pencil or pen; others", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "MUNCHEN. 73\\nquite fully worked out, of nearly all his great\\nmasterpieces*\\nThe cunning of his good right hand seemed\\nnever to have been at a loss. His portrait,\\npainted by himself, stood on an easel, with three\\nfadeless chaplets placed upon it by that loving\\nhomage which honors alike those who give and\\nthose who receive*\\nOut again and on again, turning my feet\\nobstinately from the home stretch. Several\\nsquares took me to the English Garden,*\\nfounded by Count Rumford, our uneuphonious\\nMr. Thompson.** Acres of greenery in drives,\\nwalks, bowers, lakes, streams, etc., right on the\\nedge of the city. Like Kane and the Polar Sea,\\nI stood on the brink but did n*t jump in. I did\\nnot quite like strolling in its shady depths by\\nmyself. I had driven through, and the knowl-\\nedge which neutralizes temptation might have\\nhad as much influence to the abstinence as the\\ndiscretion. No bringing myself to the self-appli-\\ncation of the word cowardice Besides, there\\nwas counter-attraction somewhere within sev-\\neral squares which I had not seen, Ludwig-\\nkirche, with its altar painting, The Last Judg-\\nment,** the largest oil painting in the world,\\nsixty-three feet high and thirty-nine feet broad*", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "74 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nDid you know that I did n*t till the guide-hook\\ntold me. You are welcome to my hard-earned\\ninformation. I wish I had time to say some-\\nthing I want to just in this connection.** Hm\\nI haven^t; I must hurry on. Of course^ the\\npainting is a masterpiece of art. Is n*t that the\\nconventional expression that slips so trip-\\npingly** from the half -fledged tourist? Among\\nthe spirits of the blessed is that of King Ludwig,\\ncrowned with laurels, attained presumably after\\nhis separation from Lola; also that of Dante,\\nthe poet of heaven and hell, in a red garment;\\nand of Fra Angelico, the painter of Paradise, in\\nthe Dominican robe. I did not give a close in-\\nspection to the spirits of the other order* Ves-\\nper service was in progress, and I sat and\\nwatched the devout at their aves and pater-\\nnosters, a scene in its way food for rather pain-\\nful meditation. Such mechanical worship such\\nslavish superstition! Descending the entrance\\nsteps as I left the church, I was struck by their\\nworn appearance. The daily tread of the mul-\\ntitudes of worshipers has left them almost un-\\nsafe. Then I lagged along Ludwig Strasse, the\\nfine street entirely originated by that same King\\nLudwig who had public spirit and energy enough\\nto hide a multitude of faults.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "MUNCHEN. 75\\nThe sun was leaving me so fast I had to turn\\nhomeward, which I did as reluctantly as you turn\\nback from some of your long tramps, I suspect.\\nIs n t a Munich day a rather fascinating span of\\nlife? I match the above day by day. Do you\\nknow what a large city it is 230,000 popula-\\ntion And how grand and clean and comfort-\\nable? I am wishing I could transport it to the\\nUnited States for myself and my elect ones to\\ndwell in For oh such bread and butter and\\ncoffee as abound! There! the weakness for\\ncreature comfort will not be thrust aside\\nDon t you want to know what neighbors I\\nhave A banker at the end of this etage, a wid-\\nower with a cherub of a child, and in the next suite\\nof apartments to mine a baron Such a splen-\\ndid-looking man If he had only come sooner\\nyou know the adage about propinquity before\\nI had quite lost my heart I I couldn t help it* I\\nwas taken ^*so unawares not in the least\\ndreaming what would be the issue\u00e2\u0080\u0094 when I\\ncould not wrest my gaze from that superb crea-\\nture in such brilliant array. Don t tell on me!\\nA Prussian officer His uniform is the acme of\\ntaste, gorgeousness and becomingness his off-\\nduty saunter on the street the ultimatum of grace\\nhis easy, dignified, unconscious bearing the per-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "76 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nfection of deportment. He never stares at one.\\nIt was the merest accident that our eyes met, and\\nthe damage was done. Our glances got tangled\\nin each other, and the more we struggled the\\nmore hopeless the knot. His name? You prom-\\nise not to betray this weakness but could I be\\na true American woman and come abroad and\\nnot lose my heart? His name is Legion; for I\\ncan t tell them apart any more than I can help\\nadoring them all the graceful, gracious, gor-\\ngeous beings of gold and plumes and cockades\\nand pompons, and altogether such uniforms!\\nFor what else were they made, indeed? See\\nhow I take you into my confidence And now\\nthen, father confessor, having made a clean\\nbreast of it, I shall betake myself to my couch,\\nin the words of Goggles,* to sleep the sleep\\nof youth, innocence and beauty/* Did you say\\nyou were going to write fortnightly or weekly\\nThe first will be best.\\nL. G. C.\\nMunchen, October 23, 1882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "MUNICH.\\nAY, how many copies have you of those\\nfoaming sheets you sent me from M\\nfor a letter And to how many other addresses\\nhave they been sent I am curious to know*\\nThey were never evoked by me of that I am\\nsure* Nor do I attribute their existence to the\\noverwhelming influence of any other special fem-\\ninine divinity; rather to one of those supreme\\nintervals his satanic majesty s own ^when\\nThe d 1 finds for idle hands\\nSome mischief still to do.\\nYou were alone; you were **in a state of\\nmind;** you\\nSat in revery and watched\\nThe changing colors of the waves that broke\\nUpon the idle seashore of the mind.\\nYou summoned up spirits of that vasty\\ndeep, red, white and blue; the flimsy creatures,\\nwhat were they but shades of all your divinities,\\nthe slim maidens of your boyhood, the stately\\ngoddesses of your cavalier period, ^^the pretty\\nwidows of your old bachelor era And so\\n(77)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "78 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwith the prodding of that flock of shadows and\\nthe impulse of your besetting iniquity you wrote\\nthat sample letter good for one, good for all\\nI can see the whole performance. Thankee, sir;\\nI am not to be mistaken for one of that throng.\\nThere is nothing gregarious about me. Just\\nleave me out when you give your *Mree lunch*\\nfeasts of sauce and sugar-plums I You\\nBut I enjoyed the composition **all the\\nsame.** What a pity you have never taken to\\nnovel writing. This letter I can*t call it mine,\\nyou see, because it belongs to all of them ah\\nthis letter shows your hand.** Believe me,\\nyou *ve missed your field in literature. Are you\\ntoo old to begin over? I ask this because I am\\nbeginning to have misgivings in the face of my\\nold sturdy belief that one never outgrew the\\nability to do if only the will were not wanting.\\nI ^I how shall I admit it? I find there are\\nthings I can*t do. Of course it is because one\\ngrows old, even with the best intentions not to.\\nNo, I never want to; and here I am minus the\\nroses of other days and plus wrinkles and gray\\nhairs beyond all calculation, and seriously con-\\ntemplating a mouthful of false teeth. Sigh for\\nme Was ever anything so lamentable I am\\nso glad you told me about your evening with", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 79\\nmy dear friends, the F s. How plain you\\nmade me see the familiar room. It was good\\nof you all to remember me so. They are of\\nearth^s choicest\u00e2\u0080\u0094 so high-souled, so loyal, so\\ngood. I have yet to see the man who does not\\ndo homage to Mrs. F and the Doctor is one\\nI delight to love and honor. I hope you met my\\nother friend, Mr. W of whom I dreamed\\nlast night. I was talking to you, and used this\\nexpression: ^*A11 the wrong he has ever done\\nin his life all and the only is to have always\\ndone the right.*^ When I awoke I remembered\\nit. How long I have known him nearly from\\nthe beginning ^away back yonder when I was\\na wee thing in pinafores. He said so pleasantly\\nof that long acquaintance The first time I saw\\nher she was so high* (meaning the midget I\\nwas) **and swinging in an apple tree; and she\\nswung into my heart, and has been swinging\\nthere ever since.* Are not those the kind of\\nwords for remembrance How good he has\\nbeen to me. Some day I *11 make your heart\\nthrob, as these human hearts of ours are quick\\nto do, hearing of the great and noble of earth,\\ntelling of all he has been to me and done for me\\nin this life of mine, that has been more sorrow\\nand heartache, you know, than comes to many.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "80 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nn you could know him as I do ^I think, no\\nI know you would appreciate my affection and\\nreverence. His life has been a constant growth,\\ngrace overcoming nature, the lower giving way\\nto the higher, conquest upon conquest, till I al-\\nmost tremble at that nearness to perfection which\\nmeans fitness for that better Elsewhere, the ulti-\\nmatum of all our hopes and dreams. Here arc\\nwords of a man about him Is n^t his the ten-\\nderest, the lovingest, the gentlest, the purest, the\\nwhitest and best soul God ever gave to man\\nDid ever you know any man speak so of an-\\nother Think what mine will be when I give\\nthem leave. Do you observe that I speak to\\nyou with perfect freedom, having no fear to ex-\\npress my enthusiasm It is because kno w you\\nwill not transmute the pure gold of such a friend-\\nship into any drosser metal. Ah I shall indeed\\nbe disappointed if you do not meet him. You\\nshould call on his wife. You would find her\\nvery companionable. You remember her that\\nrainy noon call, I am sure.\\nDear old M It is looking its best for\\nyou, is it Its best cannot be easily surpassed.\\nThose beautiful hills that I seem to have climbed\\nand scrambled over almost as soon as I learned\\nto walk I How it thrilled me to read your words", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 81\\nabout them Ah you cannot know how they\\nlook to my eyes, that always see them in a two-\\nfold light that of my vanished past as well as\\nthe present My husband and I were always\\nsweethearts. I do not clearly remember any-\\nthing farther back than my love for him* He\\nused to bring me the wild flowers that grew all\\nover them; and we have climbed them together\\nmany a time and gazed at their beauty together,\\nand planned the future that lay ahead of us in.\\nthat wonderful sheen and glow that is visible\\nonly to such untried and happy beings. Dear\\nhills beautiful hills sacred hills Yes, I know\\nthem in their length and breadth, from their high\\ncrests almost to their foundation stones. Did\\nyou know I was a grangeress before we met\\nWell, I had that kind of possession of them also.\\nFrom the top of mine, I cot stand by a tall,\\nbare trunk torso, may I say of a monarch\\nin its time, and look westward over the range,\\nincluding Water-works Hill, to Mr. W s. I\\nand my dog did it often sometimes in the dewy\\nmornings sometimes the sunny noons some-\\ntimes in the long, tranquil slants of the setting\\nsun. Oh! I know those hills, every foot of\\nthem, at all hours of the day, in every light,\\nunder every shadow, from their oaks and beeches", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "82 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ndown to their bramble thickets; every wild\\nflower, every noxious weed, petrifactions, peb-\\nbles What have they that is not a part of my\\nvery being Do you wonder I love them\\nI wish some one had had a long enough\\nmemory to show you where I was born, not\\nbecause of that unimportant event, but because\\nyou can see even now what an exquisite spot it\\nmust have been. It is the point where Lime-\\nstone Creek runs into the Ohio. I am always\\nthankful I was bom on the banks of a river and\\nin the shadow of the everlasting hills.* We\\nwere playfellows, as it were. The shells I have\\nscraped together; the sand hills I have heaped\\nup; the stolen wades in the edge of the water;\\nthe skiff rows the fishing with pin-hooks and\\nworm-bait! Ah! my beautiful river; that you\\nwant to spoil to me by crossing against my wish\\nIs it you who are so cruel E you are still\\nin M ask Dr. F to show you the\\nlittle house where I was born.** It was my\\ngrandfather s, and my father s is near by. Make\\nsome excuse, you two, to get a walk all about\\nthem, just to see the views. You will thank me\\nfor it, I know.\\nWhy did you not tell me who that exu-\\nberant set was Give me the names. There", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, 83\\nis no curiosity about me, you see. As for\\nthat counterpart, I don t like to feel there is an-\\nother so like me* I cannot imagine who she\\ncould have been* Next time don t let her escape\\nyou. Clutch her with, if need be, that fierce\\nbrigand salutation adapted Your name or your\\nlife/ There has been an annoying individual\\nof that kind here. She even had the exasper-\\nating presumption to have not only my initials,\\nbut my name. Think of another Mrs. Laura\\nCollins roving around Europe, and getting your\\nletters and opening them. Do you think it was\\nany satisfaction to read her indorsement, opened\\nbut not read by Mrs. Laura Collins. The only\\nthing that reconciled me was that she was Mrs.\\nG. L. C, instead of L. G. C. I am glad she\\nhas flown **to other parts, and hope we shall\\nnot clash again. But wasn t it aggravating?\\nI did not have any mail for two weeks on ac-\\ncount of her getting and keeping it. That\\nBayerische Vereinsbank, and I let her have\\n**a piece of our mind, I can tell you, about it.\\nDon t be vicious about my Bavarian officer.\\nThat special one I have not seen again, though\\nI **own up to an eager scanning of every one\\nI meet. To be sure, I have not the least idea I\\nshould know him, but I can t keep from looking", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "84 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nfor him. It was such a peculiar experience, that\\nrencontre. Think of having to lift your eyes to\\nlook at one exactly as if in answer to a call, in\\nspite of yourself, and being overcome in the\\nsame instant by an utter helplessness to look\\naway, while you became conscious that each\\nwas slowing up in passing,*^ for you know not\\nwhat might happen next. It was terrifying too,\\nbecause I am sure he felt as I did, that nothing\\nought to happen, except that each should keep\\nstraight on. We did somehow manage to. But\\nyou see I can*t keep from telling you everything\\nafter a few rods I could not help it I looked\\nafter him not, however, without some feminine\\ncraftiness. I made believe I was attracted by a\\npretty shop window. Oh h h h I\\nHe, too, standing transfixed in the street,\\nwas looking back. Then was a shock Then\\nhow each hurried away! I plunged into the\\nshop, and quite bewildered the clerk with various\\nwants. I simply did not know what I was ask-\\ning for. And he! Ah! what has become of\\nhim? Alas! I know I shall never see him\\nagain! And also, I know equally well ^and\\nthis is the saddest of it I should not know him\\nif I did! Could any one be more harmless\\nMy charming Munich is showing its kinship", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. ^5\\nto the Alps. The snow is falling fine, thick and\\nfast. I am not quite delighted, because I do not\\nlike the beautiful snow. I meant to have had\\none whole year of summer time, getting to Italy\\nbefore cold weather. But Miss B s sickness\\nchanged my arrangements. The party I joined\\nwere to winter here for study. Now it will be\\nJanuary or February before we see that sunny\\nclime.* Still, I am told by those who have been\\nthere that February, March and April are the\\nmonths for it. I want to see it only under the\\nmost favorable circumstances, so am content to\\nwait. To-night we are to attend a concert of\\nthe choicest music, given by some of Germany s\\nfinest musicians. We have had two seasons of\\nopera already. I don t know how many more\\nwe are to have. Booth is to be here by and by,\\nand we mean to give him a welcome indeed\\nAs for chronicling all I am doing, I can t think of\\nwearying you to that extent. But be sure I have\\nno idle days. They are all as full as they can\\nhold. They will do to talk about in that won-\\nderful **by and by we have laid out in the\\nfuture. I am sure there are some points in your\\nletter I have not taken up; but I dare not take\\nthem up now, lest such length of letter frighten\\nyou into breaking off the correspondence. So", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "86 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nmuch valuable time as the reading exacts\\nhow can you spare it? Besides, those points\\nwill keep\\nI shall expect a full and true and most mi-\\nnute report of your entire visit* Don^t keep an\\nitem back. It will be ever so mean if you did\\nnot write that **next Sunday/^ Won t you be\\nglad you did, if you did, when you read this But\\nindeed and indeed, I am very grateful for your\\nletters, and am your friend to my finger tips,\\nL. G. C\u00c2\u00bb\\nMunich, November J8, 1882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "MUNICH.\\nOUR second Sunday letter Just received\\nand read twice over/^ You can t realize\\nthe pleasure it gives me. No woman is material\\nfor a full-blooded Bohemian. Giving myself, as\\nI am trying to do, wholly up to this life, few\\nwould believe what a homesick heart is nearly\\nall the time beating beneath my vivacious words\\na heart sick for the home broken up forever;\\nfor the dear ones that will meet me no more on\\nany threshold this side the grave. Think how\\nI must feel, reading your words about my lost\\nhome how they take me back to it. I shall\\nnever see it again. I could not bear it. Yet I\\nam very grateful to you for thinking to tell me\\nabout it the beautiful tree the kindly intention\\nto send me a leaf; the plan to see it again. May\\nI tell you such thoughtfulness has the tenderness\\nof a woman in it My mother would have done\\nthe same. Thank you for it. And believe me,\\nmy heart has never before so accepted you as a\\nfriend. It is very gratifying to me to know that\\nyou are so delighted with M I have always\\n(87)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "88 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthought it one of the most beautiful, picturesque\\nbits of earth my eyes have ever seen.\\nDid I not write that Heidelberg, so famous\\nin song and story and guide-books for its scenery,\\nreminds me of it It is fortunate you are such\\na walker and climber. No one who is not can\\nknow the beauty of this little planet. Be sure\\nto go over all Mr. W ^s hill, or, rather, his\\nchain. I think you will say it is unequaled, or\\nalmost so. If you could only have him for a\\ncompanion, he would show you many points we\\nhave enjoyed so many times, morning, noon, and\\nnight. There is a moonrise view that would\\nmake you speechless with ecstasy. He found it\\nout for the rest of us. One special hillside is full\\nof wild flowers in the later springtime, where in\\nthe earlier spring he has a charming little sugar-\\ncamp. We have had such frolics and picnics\\nin the sugar-making season Be sure to find\\nMaple Point,** and the oak tree with the gnarled\\nroots, where we sat to gaze and talk. You can\\nsee away across the river there, even to the home\\nof your friends.\\nWe had quite a snowfall on Saturday.\\nSunday was a day of steady cold. It and to-day\\nwere one of the innumerable church feasts ^the\\nanniversary of the founding of the order of St.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 89\\nElizabeth. You know the story her great\\ncharitableness and her husband s ojjposition;\\nhow he caught her going out with a basket of\\nfood and commanded her to uncover it; and lol\\nwhen she obeyed, the contents had been changed\\ninto flowers ^to meet the emergency Well, the\\nroyal family here, the ladies only, belong to this\\norder, and enter into the celebration with great\\nardor. The first day, the service is a brilliant\\none, the princesses in fine carriage toilettes, with\\ntheir gilt and crimson prie-dieu and seats, on\\nmagnificent rugs, the priests in splendid vest-\\nments, the royal usher in blue and silver, and\\nanother gorgeous attendant in scarlet and gold.\\nThe service is for the living* The royal dames\\ngivQ alms. The service to-day was for the dead,\\nwith a total change of programme; the church\\ndraped in mourning, the princesses and their\\nseats and desks, the priests, and a grand cata-\\nfalque. This was lighted by innumerable tall\\nwax candles, in tall silver candlesticks. The\\nmusic was low and solemn; the people subdued\\nand sympathetic. I was much interested in the\\nspectacle. Besides, I had such close and satis-\\nfactory views of royalty I And, let me tell you,\\nroyalty looked at me with quite as much curiosity\\nas I looked at them. One of the princesses is a", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "90 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ndaughter of the Emperor of Austria. You know\\nthe empress is said to be the most beautiful\\nwoman on a European throne. She was a Ba-\\nvarian princess, and her portraits here justify-\\nthat verdict. This daughter of hers, the wife\\nof a Bavarian prince, cousin to the king, is a\\ntall, elegant-looking creature, one of the most so\\nI have ever seen, with pretty brown eyes, sunny\\nlight brown hair and fine complexion. Her\\nmouth and nose spoil her for a beauty. She\\nlooks happy and good. The king likes her,\\nand sometimes invites her to dine with him,\\nwithout including her husband! Don^t think\\nthere is any scandal this is simply one of his\\neccentricities. He may be mad, he is queer, but\\nhis reputation is as spotless as a woman s. Poor\\nking You know it was a love affair that upset\\nhim. You don t know how my sympathies are\\nenlisted in his behaH. And he really seems just\\nto miss being a grand being. The concert was\\na wild German enthusiasm. The handsome\\ntenor tenors are always handsome ^*nicht\\nwar?* sang twelve songs, so clamorous was\\nthe audience; and he looked like Goggles,\\nonly Goggles is even handsomer.\\nOh I have so much to tell you but yes-\\nterday and to-day in the cold, damp church ^no", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "Loois II, the Mad King of Bavaria.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 9 J\\nfire or heat even have given me a dreadful\\ncold, and I must stop and cosset myself and try\\nto get rid of it. Thank you for your liberality\\nabout my religion. You are right in your sus-\\npicion. Even my good friend Dr. F calls\\nme heterodox.* Indeed, I believe my only re-\\nligion is, that the life be right and then the soul\\ncannot be false.\\nJ_*. \\\\Ut \\\\j*\\nMtmich, November 20, J882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "MUNICH.\\nOU couldn t do it again!* I never\\nrepeat myself. It would indeed lower\\nmy crest of haught to find such barrenness or\\nstinginess of entertaining powers as that shows.\\nMadam, there be those more gifted who make\\na point of repetition; it is set quite above your\\ncontempt/* will you say Do not I know that\\nI can quote you the prettiest kink in rhyme\\n**o* that side of the question.* Listen:\\nThat s your wise thmsh he sings his song twice over\u00c2\u00bb\\nLest you should think he never could recapture\\nThat first, wild, passionate rapture.\\nAnd I could show you in the daintiest script\\nwhere one **not all unknown to fame/* a latter-\\nday writer of much popularity, as I have seen\\nstated, raves and raves again over the sweet\\nwidows/* Such things stare me in the face and\\nmight silence me, so potent is the force of exam-\\nple. But was ever woman made so meek and\\nyet so set in her own way Even your taunt does\\nnot goad me to a second letter of the altogethery\\ntype. I I think indeed I only wish to show you\\n(92)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 93\\nI know the trick of that style without the help of\\nwine or whisky. Pitiable pair, your Byron and\\nSheridan Please, sir, you insist upon my style\\nso much, you wonder more and more where I\\npicked it up* I am urged to ask, is it all style\\nand no sense? I am sure I told you once I\\npicked it up where I picked up my brains. I\\ndon t see why you do not accept that statement.\\nYou will never get nearer the truth, will you?\\nTrue it is, and pity t is *t is tme.**\\nI re-read the passage at once, and it reads\\njust as I wrote you in, not within.* I\\nreckon you ll have to come down, **Capting\\nScott; not I cushion my claws. But a vic-\\ntory is twice a victory when the victor is gener-\\nous. I shall not sing peans over your alto-\\ngetheriness. Poetical justice is divine when\\nit is on the right side of the river.\\nHow you linger in the land of enchantment\\nWho would not under the same witchery The\\ndivine weather and Hood will help us out\\n**0h 1 there *s nothing in life like making love.\\nSave making hay in fine weather,\\nIt is always violent when the attack comes\\nlate in life like whooping cough, measles, etc.\\nBut I d by all odds rather have it then than", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "94 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nnot at all. The life that misses that delicious\\nfrenzy is a failure. Yes, I see you like the Indian\\nsummer. Just a sentence about it from your\\nsympathetic pen, and you make picture days\\nfloat before inward eyes. The languid, indolent,\\ndreamy lapse of the autumnal sunshine; the\\nground beneath the walnut trees black with\\nfallen nuts ^I can hear them dropping from the\\nbranches, and the excited barking of the pretty\\ngray squirrel; clear, running brooks,^ their\\nbabble somewhat deadened by their freighted\\nargosies of dead leaves flecks of grass here and\\nthere, green as that of early summer; misty\\ndistances, half blue, half gold; purplish shadows\\nwhere the sun does not strike flocks and herds\\nbrowsing as if they too were more than half\\ndreaming; farm-houses dotting the landscape,\\nwith their great orchards near by oh the heaps\\nand heaps of golden pippins,^* rosy-cheeked\\nbellflowers,^* Rome beauties, tawny russets,\\nand so on; and the cider-press, with its running\\nstream, and the hig bucketfuls carried to the\\nhouse; and the sheets of piping hot ginger-\\nbread waiting for them\\nYes, that is what you make me see. And\\nmaybe one s sweetheart made it while he was\\nfetching the cider Be sure they will eat and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 95\\ndrink together Don t you see their eyes foam-\\ning over with felicity? Bless me! I shouldn t\\nwonder if you were the very fellow* Napoleon\\nknew all about that sort of bliss The hap-\\npiest hours of my life were those I spent eating\\ncherries ^th my little sweetheart when I was\\na boy/\\nShouldn t wonder if they had a frolic shoot-\\ning the seeds, should you It used to be a farm,\\nthat place on the Ohio side you took in with\\nthe Germantown view. Perhaps that s where\\nyou got your Indian Summer of life taste!\\nWhen your gaze went wandering and\\nlingering lovingly in that direction, did. it\\nlight on the two mounds that giv^. their own\\ninterest to\\nThat vale of Aberdeen,\\nThe vale of gold and green?\\nThere s a distich of Mr. W s for you I hope\\nso. Were you alone or accompanied by an\\nexuberant set, I wonder. Surely, either way,\\nsome one must have told you of the mounds.\\nPerhaps your most pretentious prattler would\\nhave told you they were antediluvian as well as\\nanti-historic. It is plain she would have given\\nsome astonishing turn to the crank of knowledge.\\nAnd had your exclamatory friend been present", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "H BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nhe might have added to the hilarity of the occa-\\nsion with some such remark as I have had so\\nmany interruptions, that flash of brilliancy has\\nescaped me. Please put it in for me. You can\\ndo that, though you begged off on the cat. Yet\\nyou knew You 6hA not fool me a bit with that\\npretense of worrying all night. In fact, if you\\nonly remember that I am on the shady side\\nalmost shaky of the autumn of life, the In-\\ndian Summer* which you enjoy, you will for-\\nbear any attempt in that direction. How gently\\nyou put it You ll know about it one of\\nthese days,* just as if I did n t already know.\\nSome antique gems are afraid of their\\nantiquity: others are worldly-wise enough to\\nknow it is that which gives them their value\\nwhile a rare few shine resplendent in that gra-\\ncious acceptance of the course of nature, which\\ntakes captive Old Father Time, and converts\\nthe awful conqueror into the loyalest henchman.\\nI at least feel no shame of my plus half-century\\nof years. Though, maybe, my counter weak-\\nness is the hope of growing into one of that\\nrare few, the beautiful old ladies I have\\nknown, and loved, and revered, and been made\\na little friend of when I was young! Their\\nmemory is one of my richest treasures. And", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 97\\nnow that their crown of years is hovering over\\nmy own head, may I prove worthy to wear it.\\nWas n^t I right when I said, all such gravi-\\ntate to you as apples and cannon-balls to the\\nground I might have said, more simply, as\\n**the sweet widows** gravitate to you, only I\\ndidn t think of that in time. It was the happier\\nafterthought.** See how you are attracting all\\nthe most felicitous marvels of speech and gossip\\ngarnered in the memories of the experienced;\\nnow rising to the surface and exploding like\\nbubbles in the froth of talk; now bobbing here\\nand there like cork in the current, as light and\\nimperishable! What store you will have for\\nillustrations in some future **Noctes Ambro-\\nsione j That singular death-bed speech I heard\\nof by accident. The person was not a friend;\\nI just knew her, though she was connected by\\nmarriage with connections of mine in the same\\nway. It seems to me she died years ago, though\\nI do not know. Who was ^Hhe clergyman*s**\\nwife that told you Why are all your friends left\\nunnamed? Haven*t they been christened yet?\\nIt seems the strangest thing that you should have\\ngot hold of that speech The mere fact haunts\\nme. Was Mrs. M the divine musician?\\nFront street west of Sutton runs so far way", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "98 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ndown around the point, where you II lose sight\\nof the old city, with its dozens and dozens of\\nagreeable people/* I can t go prying into every\\nhouse all that way to find out who she was.\\nPlease hereafter mention names.\\nI never read your side-splitting French book/\\nPetty Annoyances/ but I ll get it to-day if I can.\\nI have read some of that bad fellow s books for\\nthe French some years ago. Since I have been\\nhere I have been reading Souvestre and Sainte-\\nBeuve. I always liked the former. His was a\\nnoble soul, and I am sure he never wrote a word\\nthat he repented of on that too early death-bed.\\nDid you ever read his **Au Coin du Feu/ a col-\\nlection of stories It shows his sweet, good, wise\\nspirit. You must have read his **Attic Philoso-\\npher. It had a great run, I remember how\\nmany years ago Sainte-Beuve I feel sure you\\nknow. I enjoy his incisiveness and his (on the\\nwhole) impartial criticisms. But I am over\\nhead and ears in Dutch reading am now deep\\nin the Nibelungenlied. Having seen the\\nNibelungenlied suite of rooms in the king s\\npalace, I wished to read the story in the original.\\nI had read it in English ever so long ago\\nlong enough for the mists of memory to have\\nmade a blur over some of the details. I sat up", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 99\\ntill midnight reading it could n*t stop, though\\nknowing I should. It cannot need other evidence\\nof its fascination. The frescoes at the palace no\\ndoubt added to the interest. They are haunt-\\ningly wonderful and beautiful. Even the ex-\\ntraordinary chanting of the story of each by the\\nstolid guide could not spoil the impression. E\\never I have a chance, FII favor you with a speci-\\nmen of his performance. Alas that I shall not\\nhave the cut and tinsel of his royal livery How I\\nwish you could see all the treasures of this king s\\npalaces. They have been gathered from a range\\nof time reaching as far back as his ancestral line,\\nto n 80. I doubt if any other royal line can quite\\nequal it in many things. And the opinion is not\\nheld in the interest of my Bavarian blood either.\\nNow, tell me quick about **the last from\\nB Don t keep me waiting. Dogs and\\nchildren cannot bear suspense, and I am just\\nlike em. And when are you going to tell me all\\nabout the sweet detaining cause? I am a para-\\ngon of a confidante. Try me. I shan t tell it to\\none, and then she can t tell it to two. And so\\nA. P. R. will have nothing to rue. Impromptu\\nsparkle Catch it and preserve it under glass.\\nL. G. C.\\nMunich, December J2, 1882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "MUNICH,\\n]UST see what your last letter has done.\\nYou wished my counterfeit present-\\nment/^ Here it is. Will you be pleased with\\nit, I wonder\\nHad you called on Mrs. W as you\\nshould have done, you*d have seen a life-size\\ncrayon copy of that same/^ which Mrs, W\\nhad done in Washington. It is considered a su-\\nperb picture and a perfect copy, which makes it\\na matter of inferior moment if it is no particular\\nlikeness. It was very well for Cromwell to in-\\nsist, Paint me as I am; but for a woman, if\\nthe beauty is there, paint her as she is if not,\\npaint her as she should be.\\nThe photographs I have rejected, destroyed\\nor hid away from sight forever, because of the\\nlack of this essential! This Munchen artist\\nkept coaxing Look brighter smile f* **don*t\\nlook so sad; *you look as if you had not a\\nfriend in the world till I tried my best. There,\\nthat is good; ^^that will do; now \u00e2\u0080\u0094and he\\nturned the sun on. All the same, I am not\\n(JOO)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. m\\na picture woman, and I know it Why, bless\\nyou I of course you don^t make a good photo-\\ngraph/\\nDon t you know why said a friend in\\nPhiladelphia a few years ago, ere the brown was\\nsilver and the roses had faded; **l can tell you/\\nI looked an eager inquiry. When you sit for\\na picture your face is discharged of all expres-\\nsion, and the glow of the roses can t be shown\\nin black and white/ But wasn t he a com-\\nforter\\nYes, the home of my childhood, but not\\nthe house in which I was born, is gone. I was\\nborn in the large old-fashioned house nearest the\\nmill. I think it is now occupied by a Mr. L\\nYou must have noticed it. It is a pleasant-look-\\ning place even now spoiled as all the Point is\\nby those later houses. When we lived there the\\nhouses of my father and grandfather were the\\nonly ones for perhaps a quarter of a mile. There\\nwere, maybe, a do^en houses in Newtown,\\nas it was called then. There was no street ex-\\ncept on the river bank in front of our places.\\nThe front yards of both were full of grass, plants,\\nflowers and shrubbery. My mother had so many\\nroses, ours was called The Place of Roses.\\nEach had large gardens and meadows and or-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "J02 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nchards. Some of the pear trees are living and\\nflourishing now, over a hundred years old I\\nI thought seriously of buying the place of\\nmy grandfather when I sold my other one; went\\nand looked at it several times, but I was too alone\\nto attempt another home. Now I am sure it\\nwas best I did not. You can comprehend how\\nit made my heart ache to hear of that fire. I\\nhave not been in the house for years I think not\\nsince my father moved into Maysville, and in\\nall probability would never have been again, but\\nthe pain is inevitable.\\nI have found and read **Les Petites Miseres\\nde la vie Confugale.** Psha Don*t you believe\\nhim ^that ruthless anatomist. I believe I could\\nforgive him if he had not made these Annoy-\\nances so life-like and comical. I laughed even\\nwhen I was boiling over with rage** at his\\nrevelations. Wish I was not so indolent; Pd\\nwrite a counter-statement if I were not I could,\\nand it would be the God*s truth, just as his is the\\ndeviFs truth. But for one thing I *d set you to\\ndo that spiriting.** So unfortunately you lack\\nexperience! But why could n*t you, any way,\\njust as well as *Ike Marvel** wrote Dream\\nLife Did you ever read the Pendant to Les\\nPetites Miseres, Les Menages d*une femme ver-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "MUNICH* 103\\ntuense I got it at the same time, and found\\nit intensely interesting as a picture of French\\ncharacter and life. But I must not get on to\\nbooks, or I shall write all night.\\nDo you know Christmas is coming It is\\nso near it takes my breath away to think of it.\\nThis is Friday night and Monday FII catch\\nyou anyhow, My Christmas Gift.*^ Is n t that\\nthe way you shouted it as you tiptoed round in\\nthe early dawn of Christmas morning, when\\nyou were a boy? And hadn t you already\\nhung up your little sock the night before, know-\\ning you would find it stuffed full of goodies\\nand things I had a young bachelor friend in\\nC a fellow of infinite jest,** and much\\ncurious and quaint humor. He was alone at\\nhome, so I sent for him to dine with us.\\nWhat did you do last night, John Were\\nyou not lonesome? Why did you not come\\nround\\n**OhI I read awhile! Then I ate apples\\nand nuts. It was lots of fun to roast the apples\\nand hear them sizzle and sputter and burst, to\\nsay nothing of the eating and burnt fingers.\\nAnd you never saw *a stoker* (I think that\\nwas the word) beat me at keeping up a fire with", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "J04 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nmy nut-shells* When I got tired, I hung up my\\nsock and went to bed/*\\nWill you do the like? I hope you will\\nhave **the goodies and things/* whether you do\\nor not. Yes, I hope you will have the very best\\nChristmas of all your life* It is to be very\\ngay and festive here, and I shall see many\\nnovel and magnificent sights* Maybe FU tell\\nyou about some of them.\\nA merry Christmas A happy Christmas\\nThe best Christmas of all your life\\nL. G. C.\\nMunicli, December 22, 1882.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "MUNICH,\\nra\\nLL the world has been at its busiest\\ngetting ready for Christmas, and the\\namount of knitting and embroidery is over-\\nwhelming* I pity eyes. Even the blind do\\nthe most wonderful knitting. I was at the\\nBlind Asylum not long ago* There were\\ndrawers and drawers full of tidies, caps, stock-\\nings, drawers, etc. Some of their customs are\\nrather startling just now. Sunday is never\\nvery different from other days, except in the\\nchurch services. The shops are kept open till\\nlate in the afternoon. All the world goes to\\nchurch, and then to the military parade, and to\\nhear the band play in one of the public squares,\\nand then to shop At home, the afternoons and\\nevenings are spent in fancywork of whatever\\nkind may be on hand, or in games or dancing.\\nThe last three weeks, our young ladies have\\nembroidered indefatigably all Sunday, except\\nwhen at church or shopping. I am sure I don^t\\nlike this custom; but Christmas is a grand festi-\\nval in Germany, you know, and I suppose it\\n(105)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "106 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwould be heart-breaking not to make the most\\nample preparations. The last two days, cooking\\nhas been the duty of the frau-mother. She pre-\\npares all her cake, but sends to a regular baker\\nto have the baking done. You ought to have\\nseen the display when it came home! They\\nwere brought on great table-tops (I don t know\\nwhat else to call them). On one I counted thirteen\\nimmense loaves on another as many or more.\\nAll were nicely iced, or dusted with sugar, and\\nthey looked very inviting. The baker says no\\none sends him such rich batter as our frau so\\nfull of almonds, citron, etc. One of the young\\nladies made a whole lot* of almond macaroons.\\nThey are delicious. What an experience this,\\nof spending Christmas in a German household\\nWe are having a real homelike Christmas-time.\\nA beautiful tree all of us were called on to help\\nadorn it. Our presents are not wanting. I re-\\nceived a pocket-handerchief embroidered by the\\noldest daughter, an apron embroidered by the\\nsecond, and a beautiful satin glove-box embroi-\\ndered and made by the third, Gretchen. The\\nmother gave me a copy of the Neibelungen-\\nlied in German, and a great waiter of all kinds\\nof goodies, to be kept in my own apartment.\\nBut the best gift of all was the warmheartedness.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 107\\nChristmas nighty I was at the grandest concert I\\never attended: Beethoven^s Ninth Symphony^\\nand a new thing, Christoforous/* a legend of\\nthe Christ-child, arranged in solos, choruses, and\\nfor the orchestra* I think it was the first time it\\nhas been given here. Jammed house; spell-bound\\naudience all kinds of people, and toilets to match,\\nfrom the most superb and fashionable to the very\\nplainest.\\nIt is impossible to live in this wonder city\\nand not find each day adding to one s admiration\\nfor its kings. The most ardent republicanism\\ncannot withhold this. Their munificent public\\nspirit, grand conceptions, fine taste, good judg-\\nment, energetic execution, and practical improve-\\nments are made manifest in every direction.\\nBavaria, and especially this, its capital city, have\\nbeen subjected to much criticism and no little\\nridicule on account of their so-termed pretentious\\ndevelopment their egotism in attempting to rival\\nAthens and Rome in the style and magnitude of\\ntheir public buildings their towering ambition,^\\nas displayed in the number and size of their art\\nworks all being regarded as quite out of pro-\\nportion to its insignificant limits and lack of im-\\nportance as a political factor in the nations of\\nEurope. But whatever creates business attracts", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "JOS BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\npopulation, adds to the prosperity and increases\\nthe revenues of a country and this is surely no\\ncontemptible desideratum in its political economy.\\nThat these results have been accomplished here\\nis shown by the census. Bavaria became a\\nkingdom in J 806; Munich is the capital, you\\nknow; its population in 1840 was about 40,000;\\nin 1850, 100,000; in 1870, 170,000; the last\\ncensus, it was over 230,000, and gaining all the\\ntime. In every direction, new streets are being\\nlaid out, new buildings are going up, old ones\\nare being repaired, and the entire city gives the\\nimpression of rapid growth and increasing pros-\\nperity, all improvements being of the most sub-\\nstantial and imposing character.\\nThe reigning house of Wittelsbach dates\\nfrom 1180. It has ruled under the titles, duke,\\nelector, one emperor and king that of duke till\\n1623; the one emperor. Elector Charles Albert\\nbecoming Emperor Charles VIII from 1726 to\\n1745. Maximilian Joseph succeeded as elector\\nin 1799, holding that title till 1805, when he\\nwas invested with that of king Maximilian\\nI, King of Bavaria.^^ The present king is his\\ngreat-grandson. In otherwise idle hours, I have\\nhad the curiosity to make a kind of catalogue\\nof the public work of these rulers. You see,.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, J09\\nwhen one is driving or walking in a strange\\ncity, the questions are apt to come **in bat-\\ntalions/ In my first drive, the finest streets\\nand buildings evoked some such questions and\\nanswers as these: **What street is this?*\\nLudwig Strasse, planned and built by King\\nLudwig What building is this The\\nRoyal Library, also built by him/* And so on\\ntill I became quite bewildered by the many mag-\\nnificent structures and institutions of his crea-\\ntion, or of other kings. But I have continued\\nto question, read, and keep count, till I feel\\nquite familiar with these kingly monuments, and\\nhave taken much interest in my busy idle-\\nness/\\nMaximilian I founded new suburbs the gen-\\neral hospital which I have visited and inspected\\nclosely, and cannot praise too much, a riding\\nschool, observatory, and the celebrated bronze\\nfoundry, much patronised by the United States.\\nHis crowning honor to me is that he was the\\nfirst German prince who granted a representa-\\ntive government to his people. Ludwig I, his\\nson and successor, began his extraordinary career\\nas patron and lover of art while yet crown\\nprince. His works abound in such numbers,\\nsplendor and variety, it is difficult to realize them", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "no BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nas the creations of one person, one lifetime. Of\\ncourse you are familiar with the character of the\\nmost, if not all, but perhaps have never taken\\nthe trouble to do this little sum in addition. So I\\nshall only mention the names the Glyphothek\\nExhibition Building, Propilae, Old Pinakothek,\\nNew Pinakothek, Royal Library, University,\\nBronze Foundry, Stained Glass Manufactory,\\nKonigsbau, Festaalbau, Ludwig^s Kirche, Bas-\\nilica, Maria Hilf, Royal Chapel, Ludwig Strasse,\\nFeldemhalle, Bavaria, Walhalla, Temple of\\nLiberation the last two near Ratisbon ^Pom-\\npaianeum and Donan, Marie Canal, besides many\\nstatues and monuments, such as the obelisk on\\nthe Carolinenplatz, cast in metal from con-\\nquered cannon. His son, Maximilian 11, reigned\\nfrom J 848 to J 864. His attention and efforts\\nseem to have been principally directed to the\\nadvancement of science, though he was not\\nbehind in the beautifying and practical develop-\\nment of the city. To him it owes the Corn-\\nmarket, the Crystal Palace, Railway Station,\\nOld Winter Garden, Lying-in Hospital, Physi-\\nological Institute, Maximilian Strasse, Rieger-\\nung. Bavarian National Museum, Maximilian\\nBridge, or rather two bridges in one over the\\nIsar, Maximilianeum, Gasteig Park, etc.; cer-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, nt\\ntainly sufficient evidence that his comparatively\\nshort reign of sixteen years was not frittered\\naway. This king must have been noble, indeed,\\nand specially qualified for a great and good\\nruler; such affection and reverence cling to his\\nmemory. Only last week I read a most touch-\\ning reminiscence of him recalled by his physi-\\ncian and spiritual father, Dr, R, von Reindl,\\nwho was one of the few present in attendance\\nwhen the king was on his death-bed. At five\\no^cIock of the day he died, in the morning, the\\ngreat bell of the Frauen Kirche was rung to\\nsummon all Munich to pray for the sick mon-\\narch. Hearing it in his sick-room, he asked,\\nDear Reindl, what holy day is this Sire,\\nhe replied, the Bavarian people are praying for\\ntheir king. He spoke again ^*Ah, am I so\\nnear my end Well, I am ready, I have al-\\nways wished the best for my people, and never\\nintentionally injured anyone. I ask forgiveness\\nfrom all, There is something sublime in such\\nan exhibition of resignation and humility. He\\nwas not yet fifty-four years of age, and in the\\nprime of his powers and usefulness. Among\\nthe many monuments of Munich, his, at the\\nend of Maximilian Strasse, is the grandest and\\nmost imposing*", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "112 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nHe stands in his coronation robes, holding\\nthe charter, on a pedestal of granite and syenite,\\naround which are beautiful figures representing\\nPeace, Religion, Justice and Strength. It bears\\nthe simple, perfect inscription, Erected by his\\nfaithful people/*\\nThe present king, Ludwig 11, has, it is said,\\ncarried out some of the plans of his father, and\\nis as much given to building castles as was\\nCharlemagne. Doubtless you are familiar with\\nhis reputation for eccentricity, as it has a world-\\nwide publicity. So extreme has been its exhibi-\\ntion, it has obtained for him the title of ^*the mad\\nking.** It is difficult to get a fair estimate of\\nhim; but if he is mad, there is, like Hamlet*s,\\nmethod in his madness.** He held his own\\nagainst the Kaiser in the adjustment of United\\nGermany; would not be swallowed by the\\nwhale, though he was such a little fish. He\\nworks daily for hours on state matters, and signs\\nno papers without his full personal examination.\\nHe is credited with being so shrewd that neither\\nhis ministers nor others can get the advantage.\\nNo fooling him to the top o* his bent.** He is\\nkind-hearted and benevolent gave forty thou-\\nsand marks, against the Kaiser*s fifteen thousand,\\nto the recent sufferers from the inundations; and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. US\\nhe seems to keep watch for, and is swift to reward,\\nany special exhibition of merit in science or art.\\nAll this on the one hand; on the other there is\\nquite as much. He lives his own life, regardless\\nof everything but his own will and tastes. He\\nabsents himself from his capital. He lives alone,\\nleading a singularly isolated life he would seem\\nto be a misanthrope. He does the most anom-\\nalous things. Here is a specimen: one of his\\nresidences (Resident is the name of the royal\\npalaces here), six miles from the city, is inter-\\nesting for its pictures and extensive and fine\\ngrounds. He spent some weeks there last sum-\\nmer, and won the idolatrous worship of the vil-\\nlagers and country folk around, by mingling\\nwith them and treating them with the utmost\\nkindness. One of the picture galleries is called\\nthe Gallery of Ancestors,** its walls being hung\\nwith portraits of five hundred of the Wittelsbach\\nhouse. Well, he ordered a magnificent banquet\\nlaid in this gallery, calling it **the feast of the\\nancestors f a plate for each and a tall wax can-\\ndle for each; and he spent the night at table, the\\nonly living guest and banqueter\\nIt is to be hoped the long line of unsubstan-\\ntial shadows of the house of Wittelsbach were\\nable to appreciate the honor conferred on them.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "JH BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nIn personal appearance, he has been an extraor-\\ndinarily handsome man; tall, a head and shoul-\\nders above most men; symmetrical, of superb,\\nreal kingly bearing; with a finely shaped head,\\nrich masses of brown hair, and splendid, large,\\ndark, expressive eyes* I have seen fine portraits\\nof him at different periods from seventeen or\\neighteen years of age till now. In all, he is a\\nstrikingly handsome man. He was here the\\nfirst of November, after an absence of six months\\nremained two weeks. I saw him twice in his\\ncarriage. He is growing exceedingly stout ^too\\nmuch so for my taste but still shows what he\\nhas been. What sharp-tongued Frenchman was\\nit who said, un homme d* esprit meurt mats\\nn^engmisse pas? How much more applicable\\nto looks than wit\\nOh I must not forget to tell you that this\\npuzzling king is a poet and a man of varied and\\nmost exquisite taste. I have the promise of see-\\ning a little volume of his poems, a very few copies\\nof which have found their way into the hands of\\nthe officers of his household, friends of these Ger-\\nman friends with whom I am domiciled. They\\nare said to be full of a melancholy sweetness and\\npathos. His taste is shown in the furnishing as\\nwell as in the architecture of his palaces. Every-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. US\\nthing from the draperies to the tiniest bit of bric-\\na-brac in every apartment, in all these palaces,\\nhe has built or is building, is from his own de-\\nsigns. Those who have been fortunate enough\\nto see them rave over their rare and wonderful\\nbeauty and richness. Will you begin to think,\\nIs n t that all can there be anything more?\\nI have not told the best This strange, shrewd,\\nmad Bavarian king has a spotless reputation.\\nWith so much that is admirable, might it not\\nbe hoped that in the course of time, the eccen-\\ntricities will disappear and the fittest survive?\\nThe prominent feature in summing up these\\nBavarian kings is their unselfishness. Mere\\nselfish gratification seems to have had no place\\nin their lives. All their faculties, energies, time,\\nrevenues and efforts were devoted to a beneficent\\ndevelopment and improvement of their realm.\\nSuch men should rule whether ^*born to the\\npurple or not.\\nSo endeth my letter on the kings. Some-\\ntime I may take you with me to their palaces.\\nWe can go whenever we wish; so can the\\nhumblest subject in their kingdom. I saw on\\nlast Saturday one, thin and old, and poorly clad,\\nstanding before a picture in one of the royal\\ncorridors leading from the Cologne suite to the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "n6 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nstate apartments. She seemed to be enjoying it\\nquite as much as I was. She had her market\\nbasket on her arm and was on her way home;\\nit was full. All she had to do was to make\\nchoice of her church, or her king*s palace, or she\\nmay have gone to both; each was alike open to\\nher. How much the graciousness of such cus-\\ntom is to be commended\\nL. G* C.\\nMunich, January 2, J 883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "MUNICH*\\nRj^j^ERE is your first letter in the new year.\\nii^l^ have been giving you a rest* I did a\\nlittle sum in arithmetic myself, and that addition\\nof letters looked so formidable it drove me into\\nsandwiching this interval. Has the experiment\\nbeen satisfactory, do you ask Only in proving\\nto myself that I can be unselfish. I had a friend\\nin Philadelphia once who had the scathingest\\ntongue. He used to say All women like and\\nseek more or less martyrdom. Maybe and\\nmaybe. I know I said to myself He has to\\nanswer all those. Think of such a tax Be-\\ncause you are away from home and yearn so for\\nnews, you have been thoughtless. He has many\\ncorrespondents he has much to do. Think of\\nhow you may be interfering I Perhaps he sits\\nup o nights, or heralds the dawn to get you in.\\nE but never mind how. Your conscience has\\nbeen stirred; you ll be good; you are penitent;\\nyou ll bring forth works meet for repentance;\\nyou ll give him a rest\\nI have been good. I ve done my penance\\n(JJ7)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "US BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nbeautifully. I know I have, for I feel like an\\narchangel. But look out for the next three\\nweeks It will be anomalous perfection of con-\\nduct if I do not, like the most exemplary, re-\\nformed drunkard,** give this self-imposed restraint\\na treat a day I Best be looking around for a book-\\nkeeper graduate of Bryant Commercial College\\nto help foot up the columns then And what\\na quick transit you will make into the beauties\\nof multiplication how the twenties will multi-\\nply 1 Oh I can tell you, if you are going to\\nkeep count** on me, 1*11 see to it you*ll have\\nenough to do. Now, are n*t you scared Your\\nletter is beautiful a prose poem I know one\\nwhen I come across it. Did you ever read\\n**Prue and I?** One passage, that about your\\nSpanish castle, recalls My Chateaux.** I kept\\nthat for years where I could turn to it and read\\nit over and over again. A little less, and your\\nletter might have slipped alongside. If you had\\nonly not been as poetical over that Thanksgiving\\nturkey and pudding How could you substitute\\nthem for nectar and ambrosia Yes, I may\\nsubmit gracefully to the durance vile of your\\nSpanish castle; may lean from its windows,\\nmeeting more than half-way the smell of the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, n9\\npoppies ^to be steeped in blissful forgetfulness by-\\nit! but not shackles of adamant; not\\n**The wind-blo-wn breath of the tossing flower j**\\nor,\\n**tlie scent of the sweet tuberose^\\nThe s-wcetest thing for scent that blows;\\nor,\\n**Nord and cassia^s bahny smells,\\nNo; not anything of all the sweetest and strang-\\nest lures and fetters you know can ever get me\\ninto your Paradise, with its Thanksgiving tur-\\nkey every day. Goodness! what a material\\ncreature is your being of two hundred avoirdu-\\npois How different your Paradise is from mine,,\\nwhich is\\na fairy vision\\nOf those gay creatures of the elements\\nThat in the colors of the rainbow live\\nAnd play i* the plighted clouds,\\nand who share the feasts of humming-birds, but-\\nterflies, and gold fishes. Ah you have never\\nsplit honeysuckle bells for those dainty drops of\\nhoney in their depths You have never hovered\\nover the spiced fumes of pinks If you wish\\nfor an apotheosis, to be caught up into a more\\netherial sphere, get a vase of gold fishes and\\nwatch how they live on air, and learn how\\nmuch too much the lord of creation eats. I", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "no BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nhave one here in a vase set in a thicket of\\ntropical plants the prettiest creature! I call\\nhim my Flash of Gold/* He goes for a week\\nat a time on just air, thin air/* filtered through\\nthe pellucid element in which he sports or that\\nelement itself* His health, activity, grace and\\nsymmetry are simply perfect. Thank you for\\nthe little gem, Summer Love/* I have done\\nyour bidding, read it and read it again. It is\\nworth it for passionate remembrance* sake.** I\\nmade acquaintance with your friend d many\\nyears agone** through another little poem, which\\nis still in the portfolio I left behind. It was a\\nvade mecumf and as sacred as if it had been\\nwritten for only me. I miss it now occasionally\\nand wonder how I overlooked it. I never have\\nseen him the author, *who builded better\\nthan he knew ^I hope he has not killed his\\nboys with such weight of names. To bear\\nthem, they should have stuff to send them a\\npitch beyond the flight** of common men. I\\nwish you had gone to A P *s wedding\\nthen you could have told me all about it, and,\\nbesides, given me all the old town*s gossip.\\nWhen you choose, do you know, you can furnish\\nforth a capital dish of that cate And who\\ndoes n*t like it Even Carlyle gives us leave", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. m\\nGossip springing free and cheery from the\\nhuman heart is infinitely better than inane^ grey\\nhaze*** I am quite satisfied about *^the other\\nside of the river since your last. Remember,\\nit came after my letter of the 1 2th was gone*\\nMrs. M my cousin A is indeed a\\ndivine musician and one of the most brilliantly-\\ngifted women I have ever known. I am glad\\nyou met her, and sorry you did not meet\\noftener. I had a letter from Miss B the\\nsame day I received your last, the first for a\\nlong time. Useless to enjoin me to write\\noften under such circumstances. I am not\\nlike the stars that scintillate in the vast silence\\nand darkness; I must have response. The\\ndear woman has, however, had more sufficient\\ncause for the prolonged interval. Such trials of\\nsickness, nursing, and death one of those\\nheart-crushing experiences that every life must\\nknow at some period or other. I am so glad I\\nhad written several days before her letter came*\\nI can say nothing because there is no escape\\nfrom her present life; the claims are those of\\nblood, and duty, and love, and though *the\\nway leads over the burning marl, her feet must\\ntread therein.* I pray, however, it may not\\nlast much longer. If she were stronger, I should", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "J22 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nfeel less solicitude. Do yoa please write to her\\nas often as you can. Your words will do her\\ngreat good they will give her momentary f or-\\ngetfulness of that wearing round of duty some\\nrefreshing surcease of care.*^ I wish she had\\nbeen well enough to stay with me; but she was\\nnot. I was terrified at times thinking if she\\nshould die.^ You know she would not have\\ncome except on my account. When she seemed\\nbreaking down, the sense of responsibility was\\nbeyond words. My disappointment in the\\nwhole plan has been one of the most bitter in\\nmy life. Had all gone as we thought it would,\\nours would have been as I said, an ideal trip.*\\nYou did not say a word about Christmas.\\nHave you erased it from your calendar Seems\\nto me you might have said to me at least, **A\\npleasant Christmas a good New Year.* Why\\ndidn t you I had such a unique and beautiful\\ntime, I want to tell you something about it.\\nHave I mentioned that I am in a German\\nfamily? The mother, three daughters and a\\nyoung son of sixteen constitute the little circle.\\nWe three are the only outsiders. My friend\\nand myself were taken possession of to help\\ndecorate the Christmas tree that reached to the\\nceiling. This was Sunday after-dinner work.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 123\\nWe helped with a will* At five it was a thing\\nof beauty/* of da,zz\\\\mg beauty, if it did owe its\\nsheen and glitter to tinsel and icicles of glass.\\nThen we were dismissed. At seven, we sat\\ndown to our usual supper. The frau-mutter\\nwas invisible and the doors of the saal (salon)\\nclosed and locked on the inside. We were not\\nallowed to quit the table till 8:30 o clock, when\\nthe locked doors were thrown wide open, the\\nportieres thrust aside, and we were invited to\\nenter. We rushed! Every kind of light and\\ncolor made such a blaze we could not see for a\\nmoment. Five tables of presents, mine being\\none, and full of such pretty things. Maybe FlI\\nshow them to you when I come home. Among\\nthem *^The Niebelungenlied, in German!\\nAfter admiring everything to the full, a pretty\\nand tempting table appeared as if by magic, and\\nwe sat down to a delicious collation. We lin-\\ngered over it till eleven, then we went to church\\nto see a specially-fine and solemn service.\\nNever did I witness anything so strange, spec-\\ntral, and weird. It lasted an hour. At the con-\\nclusion, we made the circuit of the altars to see\\ntheir decorations. One had the Christmas child\\n(a beauty of a wax doll) in a cradle of roses.\\nMen, women, and children were dropping on", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "124 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ntheir knees to it* It seemed to do them a world\\nof good. We came home to find another table\\nawaiting us with beer and coffee in addition to\\nthe other good things. How long we sat over\\nthat I cannot say, but Christmas wishes were\\nexchanged long before we broke up. I don t\\nmind acknowledging it looks as if we made a\\nnight of it. The ensuing week was too full to\\neven touch on, so I skip to New Year s Eve,\\nwhen we had another characteristic time. There\\nwas a German New Year s Eve banquet, dishes\\nnever served at any other time. One was a\\nsalad, a kind of Salmagundi compounded of\\nevery known edible and condiment at least I\\ncan t think of anything that was left out!\\nAfter several courses of such came all kinds\\nof oh goodies and goodies cakes, nuts, can-\\ndies, fruits oh everything, and a great, mag-\\nnificent punch-bowl was borne in in a kind of\\nstate procession. But didn t I hope it was cgg-\\nnogg It was n t, though it was a Burgundy\\npunch. Well, we ate, nibbled cakes, crunched\\ncandies, cracked nuts and jokes, and drank\\ntoasts standing, and clinking glasses till we rang\\nout the Old and in the New Year. I was n t\\na success in the drinking, pon honor, but\\nyou ought to have seen how soon I caught the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 125\\ntrick of clinking. Our hostess taught us. You\\nsee that was poetry^ rythm^ the sweetest, softest\\nmusic like Swiss bell ringing The punch, I\\ntake it was an innocuous drink. Nobody^s\\nhead was lost if everybody s tongue was found\\nThese kindly German people, these pleasant,\\nsocial customs, this golden, fair enchanted life\\nin the valley of Bohemia how I shall miss\\nthem when I go! Alas! I am beginning to\\nflutter my wings. Paris or Vienna next en route\\nto Italy. So sorry to leave, but I want to see them\\ntoo. Now, if you were only in Italy, what a\\npair of tramps we would be\\nI am waiting to hear what you think of\\n**the counterfeit presentment.* It does not\\nshow the faded roses and the false teeth (I kept\\nmy mouth shut), but the frosted locks and the\\ncro Vs feet would n t be left out. Remember to\\nsend it back if it does not suit.\\nNo. 2 J or 22. Pshaw! don t let s keep\\ncount The fair penitent.\\nL. G. C.\\nMuniclit January )5, }883*", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "MUNICH.\\nM THINK I have written to you from this\\ncity before* Do you remember? Well^\\nno need for alarm. I have no intention of treat-\\ning you to a second dish of my raptures.\\nYours of September 8th came to hand some\\ndays ago. My promptness in reply is meant to\\npoint no moral. If people prefer being laggards,\\nI have no objection; only /am not of that ilk,\\nand must be taken in kind. You know I can*t\\ntell a lie. I tried my best to fix up an innocent\\none ^the kind that cheats oneself into thinking\\nit not a lie at all. The ingenious sophism would\\nnot work. Yet I have done it many a time.\\nWhat is the matter with me? My heart is\\ntroubled. I am afraid of myself; afraid for my-\\nself; afraid I am getting too good for this world.\\nI hope you are not praying over me as a dear\\nlittle girl I knew over her baby brother, that all\\nthe world was praising. Why do you pray so\\nfor Arthur to be one of the good little children,\\nSprite? Oh! because all the good little\\n(t26)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "Queen Louise.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "MUNICH, Ml\\nchildren die and go to heaven; and then he*II be\\nout of my wa.y***\\nWell, I just read your letter outright. That s\\nall there is about it.\\nSo let all the world keep the cotton out of\\ntheir ears. It has the secret so have the cous-\\nins I don t believe you know what a readable\\nletter you wrote. It was n t a bit of trouble to\\nmake the meaning plain and for the mere read-\\ning, why every syllable just came tripping from\\nthe tongue. And long before I got to the an-\\nnouncement, the ladies exclaimed: ^*OhI we\\nknow what he is going to tell ^his age, I\\ndon t see why you want to keep it such a secret,\\nanyhow. To be sure sixty is n t a boy s age,\\nbut then neither is it an antediluvian s. Dear\\nme Only think if you had been *^the prehis-\\ntoric man, or even Methuselah! Then you\\nmight have well prepared to whisper it into the\\nsoundless silence. Somehow you keep all their\\nnames to yourseE It makes it very awkward\\nfor me when I need to use them. See how in-\\nconsiderate you are. Do you think that sort of\\ntreatment good breeding If you do, I II give\\nyou a new version,\\nI don t feel sure about your last scintilla-\\ntion ^that is, that it was ever started across the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "J28 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsea. You have not mentioned it before, and you\\nhad plenty of chances. Instead of crossing ours\\ndid n t it scintillate all of a suddint after you\\nheard of ours.\\nBe a living monument** of moral courage\\nthat owns up when cornered Be*\\nI had a letter from Miss B last week.\\nShe is in Paris, and wished me to join her and\\ngo to Sweden and Norway. Had it been two\\nmonths earlier it would have been the very thing\\nto do; but it is now too late for the midnight\\nsun. When I go I want to see that too. Do\\nyou know she is a writer spoken of as the de-\\nlightful authoress of ^^A Trip to Scandinavia/*\\nThe Midnight Sun/* and Travels through\\nRussia and the Orient**? I don*t believe you\\ndreamed what she was when you saw her.\\nYou would have been less presumptuous! You\\nhave done it. Tremble and quake as you recall\\nyour audacity. What is left for you to do next\\ntime I have had a letter from the other Miss\\nB .too, recently. Do you write often to her\\nIt isjworthany one*s while to wring her letters\\nfrom; her. Such weather as she wrote of It\\nmade one think of the Garden of Eden.**\\nAs for coming home, I don*t see my way to\\nthat yet; perhaps in the Spring:. I do not bind", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "MUNICH. 129\\nmyseK to go or to stay; only I wish to go to\\nSpain, Greece and the Orient first. Once back,\\nthen I doubt if I shall ever come again. Chim-\\nney corner days are at hand. We are meantime\\nenjoying the world about us. This city is brim-\\nful of interest, you know.\\nYesterday was a grand gala day. I must\\nhave written to you of the October Fest, a\\nmixed exposition of the peasants and common\\nclasses, agricultural, cattle, horse-racing, games,\\nand side-shows. It is held in some meadows at\\nthe foot of the great statue; lasts about two\\nweeks* Open on Sunday, and the second Sun-\\nday is the one set apart for the attendanee of the\\ncourt. The late king, poor, mad, gifted, hand-\\nsome Louis, omitted this. He kept up no cus-\\ntoms that exacted his appearance in public.\\nThe regent announced his intention to resume.\\nThis meant a full attendance of all the royal\\nfamily in all their gorgeousness. It attracted an\\nimmense crowd reckoned at 70,000. We were\\nof it. The day was perfect, crystal clear, and\\njust cool, just warm enough. All sorts of cos-\\ntumes, equipages, and human beings, the last a\\nwell-dressed, well-behaved, most amiable mass.\\nThe regent came in an open carriage with\\nsix horses and jockeys in brilliant trappings,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "J30 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\npreceded and followed by a fine body-guard.\\nHis three sons and two nephews came in open\\ncarriages likewise, but with only four horses.\\nSome ducal kinsmen in two-horse carriages;\\nambassadors and government officers in all\\ntheir state. It was a most brilliant spectacle.\\nI wish I had time to tell you all about it.\\nWe had a day last week at the Augsburg\\nsix months^ Exposition just closing. The\\nshow was, of course, a Centennial on a\\nsmall scale; the old city was ravishingly quaint,\\nmedieval and interesting.\\nBut a four o^clock tea at the apartments of\\nan officer in the army, who has married a young\\nGerman friend of mine, was beyond words.\\nThe linen closet If you had seen it, you\\nwould have bewailed your bachelor fate. The\\n^^tea** was a drink fit for the gods, with a\\nsoapcon of ram in it.\\nL. G. C.\\nMunich, October 4, 1886.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "The Historic \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Windmill.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\nJELL, here I am at last in Paradise!\\nI was a long time on the way, but I\\nwould not have back one moment. To para-\\nphrase dear, simple-hearted, child-like Hans\\nChristian Anderson, My journey has been a\\nlovely dream, happy, and full of incident/*\\nI lelt Munich two weeks ago alone, for a\\ntwenty-four hours railway trip, in a mixture of\\nforeign countries and a medley of foreign lan-\\nguages that would have swallowed me up in\\ninextricable confusion, but for the wise precau-\\ntions I had taken to fend it off. I made requisi-\\ntions in every direction and on every available\\nperson on almost as extensive a scale as the\\nKaiser might if he were going in for a big war;\\nthe American consul and all my other acquaint-\\nances ^their name was not legion ^all being\\ncalled upon. I had a royal escort to the station\\nthree ladies and Mr. S placed me in the\\ncare of the guard (conductor), who spoke\\nFrench and German. His fluency in both FII\\nown was a trifle aggravating. My friends had\\n(J3J)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "132 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nput me in my carriage (sleeper), which was\\nelegant and commodious, such as only princes\\nand princesses and the like are in the habit of\\nusing. I had it all to myself. How I wish\\nthat Tower of Babel incident had happened on\\nsome other planet. Then they all smothered\\nme with kisses, and the dear, young frauleins\\nwith tears. The warning shriek sent them\\ntumbling over each other to get off the train.\\nHandkerchiefs were waved from the platform,\\nand oh in a flash I was out in the universe of\\nmoonlight and solitude, cut off from all I know.\\nBut, having obeyed the instructions of my spe-\\ncial advisers, the American consul and others,\\nnot to have a courier, I felt no anxiety. Said\\nthe A. C, *^Tip the guard.*^ Ditto, said Mr.\\nS Tip the guard,* and Tip the guard,\\nchimed in No. 3. And on my order to that ef-\\nfect, said Mr. S young America, Harvard\\ngraduate I Fve made it bully with the guard.\\nSo that guard didn t mean to bear the weight on\\nhis conscience without rendering a fair equiva-\\nlent of service. In he came popping every few\\nminutes to say something in that dreadfully\\nfluent German. If he thought I was not under-\\nstanding fast enough, resorting to French (and\\nthis is a most mortifying admission) when both", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "PARIS, 133\\nseemed failing, he tripped into the most ludic-\\nrously despairing pantomime At bedtime he put\\na crimson shade over my lamp and bade me\\ngood-night with that exquisite French polite-\\nness that has not its match in the world, charg-\\ning me to call him if I needed anything. But\\nthe chilly little bed he had made for me Ugh\\nIt made me shiver just to look at it* Think of\\nit, linen sheets and one spread after my German\\nnest of down a bed of it under and another\\nover me*\\nFortunately, I think the earth never saw a\\nlovelier night, a full moon and that clear, keen\\nair that tells ^^Jack Frost is busy; and the\\npretty country slipping past so fast in the daz-\\nzling white light* I sat up, of course. Towards\\nmorning it grew ^^cold, very cold*^* It was\\nruthless in me, but I stripped that bed of its one\\ncover to wrap up in* When we ran into Strass-\\nburg at five and got out for breakfast, I just\\nroasted myself by the great, generous fire* My\\nwaiter spoke English* I crossed his hand with\\nthat douceur, ^*a silver shilling,^^ in England,\\nmark, in Germany* Believe me, the sweetest\\nsounds ever syllabled by human tongue are\\nthose of one s own vernacular* On the frontier,\\nwe changed from German to French cars, from", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "J34 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nthe luxurious warmth of the former ro the com-\\nfortless cold of the latter the one heated by in-\\nvisible registers, the other by a tube of hot water\\nlaid on the floor merely a poor foot-warmen\\nI was never more tired of a journey, all because\\nof the cold; therefore never so glad to see\\nthe end.\\nWhen I jumped out of the carriage at the\\nGare de UEst, you need not be told how glad I\\nwas to find a relative awaiting me. He took\\nme to the Grand Hotel, the largest and most\\nfashionable in Paris, and after I was rested, out\\non the balcony attached to show me the Rue des\\nCapucins by gas-light, lamp-light, moon-light,\\nand star-light. I was overwhelmed with the\\nsight, speechless at such a brilliant spectacle\\nmillions, it seemed, of lights in every possible\\narrangement. This winter has been so rainy,\\nI am glad I came no sooner. I shall be away\\nby the middle of the month to Italy, and return\\nagain to Paris later.\\nThe view from my private balcony (at a\\npension kept by a French lady, to which I\\nhave changed from the hotel) is charming,\\nand the Arc de Triomphe de TEtoile is not a\\nstone^s throw distant. I also see the great\\npalace of Mrs. Mackey from my balcony it is", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "PARIS. J 35\\nnearer than the Arc. It has a little square all to\\nitseK. She is now at Nice, and it is closed. I\\nheard that Mr. Mackey is worth two hundred\\nmillions Grace Greenwood is in Paris. Her\\ndaughter is pronounced by everyone to be ex-\\nquisitely beautiful.**\\nI have seen the Hotel des Invalides, Champs\\nde Mars, Trocadero, Passy, the loveliest suburb\\nof homes the Bois de Boulogne, that you know\\nby heart, but oh what an enchantment to know\\nby sight the Champs Elysees the Place de la\\nConcorde; the garden of the Luxembourg; the\\nPalace de FEtoile with the grand Arc de Tri-\\nomphe, the largest, they say, in the world the\\nMadeleine; Chapelle Expiatoire; and the after-\\nnoon at the Gobelins, looking at those wonders\\nof wool, silk, gold and silver, wrought in such\\npatience by the most practiced eye by men*s\\nfingers never allowed to demean themselves by\\nother work of whatever kind and the Champs\\nElysees on Sunday afternoon This last is the\\ngreat moving human spectacle. I have seen\\nnothing like it but Hyde Park on that gala-day\\nof **The meet of the four-in-hands.** Such\\ncountless lines of carriages in the street!\\nLooking ahead I could not see how we were\\never going to get through the approaching host.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "136 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\napparently as compact and impregnable as one*s\\nidea of the advancing columns of an army. I\\ntell you it filled me with awe. In the street I\\ncould not detect space enough for even one more\\ncarriage. One must see to comprehend how\\ngrand and imposing such a vast concourse of\\nseething humanity is.\\nThe weather is like our last of April. The\\ngrass is thick and green^ and from three to five\\ninches high. The flower-beds in the squares\\nare full of flowers. As one walks or drives,\\nwhiffs of sweet violets are constantly blown to\\nyou. At least one great flower-shop greets the\\ndelighted eye every half-square. The sunshine\\nis a dazzle most of the time. I must stop, but\\nwill write more at an early date.\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, Febnmry 4, 1883.", "height": "3124", "width": "1670", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\nH, DEAR I don*t know where to begin.\\nIt seems an age since I wrote; in point\\nof fact it has been only oh! I shan t go into\\ncalculations and dates. Figures are such un-\\nmanageable little demons I cut them long ago.\\nThere is no such thing as getting round them.\\nThey are so fair and square and exact and re-\\nlentless, I throw up my hands and give up with-\\nout struggle when it comes to a contest with\\nthem. Let me see I must make a beginning\\nsomewhere. Where did I leave off, I wonder\\nDoes it matter How can it, seeing I am not a\\nnewspaper correspondent/ or writing for fame\\nor filthy lucre/ or for anything in the *^wide,\\nwide world that can be attributed to a higher\\nimpulse than natural depravity For between\\nourselves, to be really honest, I do believe I am\\nwriting simply and solely to nag you Why\\nOh, just because a woman s reason. It is not\\nonly argument, but it overcomes all logic, which,\\nfrom your superior sphere of immensity, being a\\nbachelor, you have not found out. Just look out\\n(137)", "height": "3092", "width": "1649", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "J38 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwhen you get your supplemental hemisphere,\\nand think of these words They are a lot of\\nnonsense to you now they will be the quint-\\nessence of wisdom to you then. But I am not\\ngoing to let you any further into the secrets of\\nthat blissful ^*two in one existence/^ Go and\\nfind out for yourself, old boy/* In Paradise\\nWrite a poem on those words they seem meant\\nfor me. Well, I have been in this, the Paradise\\nof all good Americans,** for two weeks plus.\\nSomehow I think I can find a better one for my\\nsoul, but it is a tiptop place for one still in the\\nbody.\\nI came from Paris alt alone one lovely\\nmoonlight night and sunshiny day. The trip\\nhad a smack of royalty in it. I chartered a\\nwagon lit (a sleeping-car,** as ^we say), and\\nbribed the garde (conductor), and otherwise be-\\nstowed myself as only princes and princesses\\ndo in this country,** said the pleasant German\\npeople with whom I had been domiciled so long.\\n**Oh!** said I, am a princess; we are all\\nprincesses in America, or can be ^the last little\\nclause sotto voce* My wagon** was all crim-\\nson, velvet and mahogany, and looked so glowy\\nwhen my cavalier shrouded the lamp, a generous\\none in size and esthetic in its finish of antique", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "PARIS, J39\\nbronze, in a crimson shade, I thought it was\\nheated to midsummer warmth; but did n^t I find\\nout to the contrary before morning I And the\\nthin, chilly little French couch after my German\\nnest of down will I ever forget it Every time\\nI glanced at it, it just resolved the whole me\\nbody, mind and spirit into one big shiver.\\nThanks to the glorious full moon, that could\\nnot put out Orion though, there was ample en-\\ntertainment outside, so I sat up all night. It did\\nnot seem long till that freezing period just before\\ndawn set in; then all my wraps, and the little\\nbed^s one cover added to them, could n*t make\\nme warm.\\nYou can guess I was glad when we ran\\ninto Strassburg at five, and I was conducted to a\\ngreat, bright, comforting fire and a delicious hot\\nbreakfast. My special waiter talked English,\\ntoo, and I didn^t giv^ him a rest for the hour we\\ntarried there. My blessed native tongue Take\\nmy word for it, till you prove for yourself, the\\nsweetest sounds human ear can catch are those\\nof one s own vernacular. The German cars\\nwere heated by invisible registers and were the\\nperfection of comfort, but at Avricourt, the fron-\\ntier, we changed into French, and their heating\\napparatus was a flat zinc tube laid on the floor.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "HO BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\na mere fcMDt warmer/* I kept chilling/* as\\nthey say in ague countries, all the rest of the\\nday, notwithstanding an Italian gentleman who\\nspoke four languages, English being one, and\\ntwo French gentlemen who spoke French only,\\ndevoted themselves to securing my comfort*\\nThe delicacy of the adjustment of their atten-\\ntions I shall never forget ^to the extreme of\\ncourtesy, but never verging on obtrusiveness.\\nWell, the long, wearing day came to an end,\\nand Paris and my uncle met me. But this is\\nwhy I told you all the above such a dreadful\\ncold as the trip and change from German com-\\nfort to French chilliness and cheerlessness gave\\nme I have been fighting it ever since. It is\\naccompanied with an excess of deafness. And\\nnow you can account for all my viciousness.\\nI have had a pretty good time though,\\nnotwithstanding. Have been to a beautiful din-\\nner party, where I met eighteen very agreeable\\nAmericans and two or three French people.\\nHave made other pleasant acquaintances, and\\n*got in** a reasonable amount of sight-\\nseeing.** The weather till yesterday and to-day\\nhas been all sunshine and April-like in tempera-\\nture. The grass is from three to four inches\\nhigh, thick and green in the squares, gardens", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "PARIS. m\\nand Bois de Boulogrie^ and the flower-beds are\\nfull of flowers. I have bundled up equal to an\\nEsquimau and had several outings/* leaving\\nmy cold to its own devices. And I have\\nhonor bright fallen in love. Perfectly ridic-\\nulous and absurd in one of my age but I could\\nnot keep it. He is so handsome, so elegant, so\\ngenial, so witty, so entertaining so everything\\nI wasn^t thinking of such a catastrophe, and\\nI did not know what was the matter till the\\nmischief was done. Don^t pity my infatuation.\\nI glory in it. He is worth millions,^* and 8 J\\nYou ought to see us enjoy each other. Fll tell\\nyou more about him some time.\\nParis does not overwhelm me as London\\ndid, because, I suppose, I did not see it first; nor\\ndoes it charm me as Munich did, perhaps because\\nI have so much Dutch blood in my veins against\\nnot one drop of French. The parts I have seen\\ndo not giYZ it a distinctive character; it is rather\\ncosmopolitan, like our great cities, than foreign.\\nI had a lovely half-day nothing seems to be\\ndone here till after the J 2 o^clock breakfast at\\nNapoleon^s monument, the grandest I have seen;\\nthe Hotel des Invalides, with its church and ar-\\nmory and picturesquely dilapidated ruins of hu-\\nman beings; the Trocadero; Passy, a charming", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "U2 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsuburb of homes and so through a part of the\\nBois dc Boulogne and the Champs Elysccs home.\\nAnother, I spent at the manufactory of the\\nGobelinSt those tapestries as immortal as the\\nfrescoes of Angelo and Raphael. Some of them\\nare worked from express designs by the latter.\\nThink of six square inches a day being a full-\\ngrown man^s daily task I Such a respectable-\\nlooking body of men as they are, too 1 They\\nare raised for that special work, and their hands\\nare not permitted to degrade themselves by con-\\ntact with any other. Yet another at a Pompeian\\npalace meant to be an exact reproduction of the\\nvillas of that buried city. It is a gem of unique\\nand exquisite beauty, and I broke one of the\\ncommandments; for I could not help coveting\\nmy neighbor s possessions. It is full of Story s\\n{our Story) statuary.\\nOne statue, Saul, is in tinted marble, a\\ngrand, majestic old man, and certainly in some\\nrespects a triumph of the chisel s art, but I am\\nnot quite sure I indorse the tinting. No satis-\\nfaction can be complete. There was a number\\nof imposing female statues their names are at\\nthe base in Greek char act ers^ which I know.\\nWhat I did not know, nor any of the party,\\nwas the English of those names I ground my", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "PARIS* 143\\nteeth and vowed a vow when I die. and am\\nresurrected, I mean to be mistress of every lan-\\nguage under the sun or abolish all but one.\\nThere shall never be another Tower of Babel\\nexperiment on the same planet with myself\\nnever! One of the paintings on the wall of\\nthe picture gallery was a haunting one a tur-\\nbulent ocean, a cloudy sky; not high in the\\nheavens a thinner mass of cloud through which\\nthe moon shone with sufficent strength to cast\\na wake of spectral light athwart those heaving\\nsurges* Solitude** was the name* I could\\nnot keep my eyes from it. I have seen just\\nsuch a night, and felt in all its force the dreary,\\nweird solitude of it. Do I make you see it?\\nShut your eyes and try. I go from here to\\nItaly in a few days.\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, February 8, 1883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\nJI^^ERE again, after six months* absence\\njj^^ six months only How to believe that\\nWhy, I seem to have lived cycles and cycles\\nseem to be not one, just one small, insignificant\\nI, but dozens and dozens of myself* Yes, even\\nsometimes have an enormous delusion that the\\nlittle nobody who went away suffered a not-sea,\\nbut an no, not-earth What then Ah I have\\nit: tourist change into something strange, grand,\\nglorious (it must out), goddess-like Was ever\\npresumption so immense and so absurd Well,\\n/am not responsible for it, but the experiences*\\nCould any mortal go through such and escape\\nthe same scath\\nSeptember 2d. If good intentions were the\\nsame sort of masters that czars, emperors, the\\ngreat mogul, the sublime porte, et id omne genus\\nare, or have been ^what a lot of things come under\\nthat last pathetic head this letter would have\\nbeen finished and on the way to you. But there\\nis such a throng of hindering duties got them-\\nselves mixed up in my affairs, I really don t know\\n(144)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "PARIS. H5\\nwhat moment I may be ruthlessly torn from the\\nperformance of what I wish to do to that I wish\\nstill more to do Such is woman^s\\nSeptember 3d. Just there I was torn off\\nagain after I don^t know how many feminine\\nraps at my door and feminine heads bobbing in,\\nand^ worst of all, each of them supplied with\\nthat rabidest of all tongues, a feminine one I\\n(Let alone a woman for a just estimate of her\\nown sex!) Don^t that last dozen lines show\\nconfusion worse confounded^* from some\\ncause You have no leave to indulge in mental\\ncomment, such as, Perhaps, my lady, that un-\\nspiritual circumstance was in your own state of\\nmind, without any outside pressure to develop\\nit.** And so don t you dare. Truth is, I was\\nin the superlative degree of calmness, collected-\\nness, clearness, comprehensiveness, like clouds\\nthat have gathered their quota of electricity, the\\ninevitable next thing being the most brilliant\\ndisplay of fireworks of the season.** Any letter\\nheretofore would have been a battery of spent\\nballs,** an eruption of mere dead cinders. There\\nthat *s what you would have gotten, what you\\nhave missed, because of those hindering god-\\ndesses. The more *s the pity.**\\nI glance up at that last broken sentence.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "146 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nSuch is woman^s What was to follow^\\nI am as much at a loss to recall as a panic-\\nstage, I mean struck, debutante of the boards.\\nOh for a prompter/ Can t you come to the\\nrescue I will most graciously permit/ And\\ndo you know, even now when I have double-\\nlocked (both doors and ears) myself in for this\\nblessed privilege of communion with a choice\\nfellow-bcing, these pages are bound to be\\ntossed off with the lightning-like rapidity of a\\nprinting-press of the latest patent, not only with\\nall modern improvements, but those of the\\nfuture too For somebody is coming directly\\nto dejeuner with me, another specimen of fem-\\ninine attributes, that of being equal to inviting\\nherself, being not the least. She will claim me\\nfor the rest of the day. And that s the way it\\nwill be.\\nYoo will see,\\nAnd alas I and alas I f of this letter to thee.\\nIf it be not writ a la electricity.\\nOf by some still more potent diablerie I\\nThere s a flash of inspiration for you,\\nwhich reminds me I had a feminine compliment\\nyesterday among those other feminine imposi-\\ntions. If it had been of masculine origin, how\\ndifferent would have been the animus of the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "The Old Lion, Lucerne,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "PARIS. U7\\nreturn-thanks/* She said, it must be true if\\none woman could bestow such words on another,\\nso you need n*t try to put a pin in my balloon*\\nMrs. Collins is always inspired^* I had just\\n**made a remark* as innocent as **a, naturaP\\n(Scotch for idiot) of any intention to soar above\\nthe dead level/ Think of my sudden infla-\\ntion. In all your kite-flying days, you never\\ngave one such a bully send-off. You may\\nbe sure I did not allow myself to flop down\\nby opening my mouth except for rations the\\nrest of the day. But was I ever in the whole\\ncourse of my long life whirled about in such an\\neddy of nonsence I can t account for it, unless\\non the principle of counter-irritation, because\\nwriting to you who are so lavish of good,\\nsound sense. Bite and wait for your own\\nturn. I am applying soothing lotions already in\\nanticipation of the crunching your reply will\\ngive me. How I ll wish I had not then. Well,\\nnow I may as well have out my dance on a\\nfiddle-string.\\nI left off at Lucerne. I wish I could re-\\nmember what I told you of that lovely week\\nthere. I shan t venture on more than a\\nword for fear of repeating myself. But I want\\nyou to know, if I did not tell you, what a hold\\nthat **lion has taken. You know about it;", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "J48 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthat it is carved in a grotto out of the natural\\nsandstone in the face of the grand cliff, the crest\\nof which is fringed with overhanging trees. It\\nis reclining, dying, transfixed by a broken lance,\\nand protecting with its poor, helpless paw the\\nshield of France with its Bourbon Lily. Any-\\nthing more noble and pathetic I cannot conceive.\\nIt made my heart ache as the Dying Gladiator\\ndid. I wanted to get near enough to take its\\nhead in my lap and stroke it, and chafe its paw\\nwith my hands, and somehow make it feel my\\nhuman sympathy. Indeed, it is a miracle in\\nkind,*^ that dead stone can be wrought into forms\\nthat so move one. The wonder of this is that\\nit is a lion the lord of the brute creation, it is\\ntrue but not a human being in a lion^s form.\\nThe qualities expressed are those tested in our\\nintercourse with that lower order of creation,*^\\naffection, sense of trust, faithfulness unto death.\\nYou don t know how often I think of him, and\\nyearn to him as to a living suffering creature,\\nthat majestic creation of one of my fellow beings.\\nOh sometimes I take a most reverential pride\\nin my race. Who was it ^Dr. Holland ^who\\nsaid, **It is a great thing to be a man?* One\\nmust agree now and again. I shan t linger on\\nLucerne now. Hereafter, may be. From there", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "PARIS* H9\\nhere will have to be a skeletonized sketch. You\\ncan^t divine the difficulty of leaving out how\\ntrying such shadowy limning is to such an\\neffusive creature as I^ who have always had the\\ndubious distinction of making not somethings\\nbut so much out of nothingt of seeing more than\\nis evet* shown* Alas! poor me*\\nFrom Lucerne by the Schbellenen Defile\\nand Furka Pass to the Rhone Glacier, a diligence\\ntrip from Andermat, giVing many privileges in\\nthe way of fine views and other things, such\\nas getting up very high in the world/ At\\nlast nothing but barren rocks, snow and the\\nplucky little wild flowers, that wouldn t be\\nbeaten out of beautifying waste places as long\\nas a cleft or cranny was found to giwe them a\\nfoothold. At the very highest, 7,992 feet, I\\ncould have made snow-balls with one hand and\\nposies with the other without moving* I saw\\nthe great glacier from almost every point, and\\nin such a glow of sunshine as can only be\\ntranscended in some other world. From it to\\nVisp. Here I had my first **mule ride,* on\\nhorsebackf with a guide to lead it* This for\\nfour hours then a blessed exchange to an open\\ncarriage, which in as many more hours brought\\nus to Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "150 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nHere the windows of my room just framed that\\ncurious freak of rock and snow, and I saw its\\ntransfiguration at dawn without moving my\\nhead from my pillow* Give me due credit\\nthough for the early wakefulness that won me\\nthat spectacle. First, in the wink of an eye, one\\nglowing, burning golden ruby spot the tip of\\nthe horn struck by the first gleam in the crystal\\nof dawn; then it spread downward like the suf-\\nfusion of a blush to where its base seemed rest-\\ning on a dark pine-covered mountain; and be-\\nhold I the whole gigantic horn a dazzling mass\\nof that fervid glow. You can guess Beauty in\\nthe fairy story did not lie stiller or more breath-\\nless under her spell of enchantment.\\nThen I had my second mule-ride, this time\\na sure-enough mule, to make the ascent of the\\nCorner Grat. I don*t know what you know\\nabout it, but I am bound to tell you something\\nat least of what I know. Just here I think 111\\nconfess to a singular hallucination it seems to\\nme that nothing I have been seeing ^cuds ever\\nseen Before* My analysis of this has only gone\\nfar enough to convince me there is no egotism,\\nself-conceit or anything on a lower range of\\nfeeling^* in this, only that innocent, unsophisti-\\ncated child-feeling over an experience out of its", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 151\\ncommon way. This is a ridge of rock rising\\nin the center of a vast hollow surrounded by a\\nvaster amphitheater of snow-peaks and glaciers,\\nthe former including the Matterhom, Monte\\nRosa, etc., the latter numbering eleven. It is\\nthe sublimest spectacle my eyes have rested on.\\nRetracing to Visp, then by rail along the Rhone\\nto Leuk, whence by open carriage again to\\nLeukesbad to make the passage of the Gemmi.\\nLeukesbad is the place where they do the\\nspectacular bathing, remaining in the baths for\\nhours at a time, and to beguile the tediousness\\nthereof having floating tables on which are\\nplaced books, papers, games or refreshments\\nthe public admitted to see what good times can\\nbe got in that way. Also there is a great\\ncuriosity in the neighborhood; a little village\\nof a most aspiring turn of mind has built itself\\nlike an eaglets eyrie on the most inaccessible\\nperch it could find, 8,895 feet high. The way\\nto it is by a pathway or stairway of ladders\\nfastened into the precipitous face of the moun-\\ntains. The guide-book does not recommend a\\ntrial of it to persons liable to dizziness, and says\\nthe descent is more difficult than the ascent. It\\nsays also, however, that the view from the\\ngrotto at the end of the second ladder will repay", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "152 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthe climber. You can guess into what climber s\\nhead that put notions.** Yes, she stole off there\\nSunday morning, all alone by herself/* took\\nthe measure of the feat and feet, kid aside ulster,\\numbrella and guide-book, and went up like a\\nbeast on all fours, and down like a crawfish.\\nAlas! that you can never know the comfort\\nand elation of having done it.\\nThe passage of the Gemmi was another\\nbona fide mule ride. I had heard so much\\nabout the precipitousness and the danger of\\nthe climb, my heart had been in my mouth\\nwhenever I thought of it for days before.\\nNothing but moral cowardice prevented the\\nphysical cowardice of backing out. Were\\nyou to taunt me with ^*You couldn t do it\\nagain,** a la Tom Sawyer, to the comrade who\\nhad just licked him (by the skin of his teeth),\\nI*d follow his example and not try. Imagine, as\\nfar as in you lies, a mule-ride up a tree or a\\nsteep spiral staircase; above, sheer precipices;\\nbelow, to such frightful depths, the same two\\nand one-half hours of that. Do you v/onder I\\nwent into retreat at the top, if not to give\\nthanks, surely for the precious privilege of once\\nmore drawing some long breaths It was a five\\nand one-half hours* mule-ride to Kandersteg at", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 153\\nthe foot on the other side* We got to our hotel\\nat 9 p. m., and slept the sleep of the elect* Open\\ncarriage next morning to Thun; the sunshine\\nso glorious I didn t believe tt could ever **do it\\nagain, and every roll of the wheels bearing\\nonward to fresh charms of earth, air and sky.\\nFrom Thun to Interlaken for a week Staub-\\nbach, drives and walks in honor of the Jung-\\nfrau, Monch and Eiger. You know that part\\nof the story welL All the world does it. But\\nto no one did it ever happen what unto me there\\nbefell one wonder afternoon. At the Belvedere,\\natop of a pretty height which commands the\\nbest view of that trio of snow-covered beauties,\\na party of English ladies came in. I caught the\\neye of one lovely-faced, silver-haired, soft-\\nvoiced, sweet-mannered old lady an instant ex-\\nchange of bow and smile, and then much\\npleasant talk. At parting, she fixed her eyes\\non me with such a blessing-beaming look in\\nthem, and said with the clearest distinctness of\\nthose low, silver tones, May all your walks be\\npleasant.** I shall carry that benediction with\\nme in every walk my feet shall tread in the\\nfuture. From Interlaken to Berne, striking a\\nfest, a peasant s wrestling match, set for Sun-\\nday Fine opportunity for seeing men, women", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "154 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nand peasants* costumes. Heard its great organ\\nsaw the bear-clock paid my visit of courtesy\\nto the bears had all its exquisite views went\\nto its really fine museum to see those marvelous\\nspecimens of white and black quartz-crystals,\\none weighing over 290 pounds and several over\\n200 and also Barry/* the noble St. Bernard\\nthat saved fifteen lives and ever so much else.\\nThen Fribourg and its lime-tree dating from\\n\\\\476, its organ, and a walk that might belong\\nto a tale of necromancy.\\nOn to Lucerne and the ^^Lake Leman/*\\nwhere I went and sat in the garden in which\\nGibbon wrote the conclusion of his great work.**\\nAnd next, Chillon I loitered away hours there.\\nIt is the loveliest, most romantic, picturesque\\nspot. I wish I owned it I stayed till the sun\\nset fire to it, the lake and the snow peaks in the\\nbackground, and then saw the full moon swing\\ninto space right over it; then a long, long sigh,\\nand the train through several stages to Ver-\\nnayaz, to make another passage** to Cha-\\nmouny. Another gorge, the Gorge de Trient at\\nV. equals that at Pfaffers. A funny little two-\\nwheeled vehicle and a guide, and we attacked\\nthe ascent. It was n*t so perilous as that of the\\nGemmi, but it was n*t easy. We crossed a", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 155\\nwaterfall tearing down the mountain side forty-\\nnine times over as many bridges* It was beau-\\ntiful beyond the reach of words. As to giving\\neven an idea of the innumerable beauties of that\\nroute, it would take a long summer s day to do\\nit. There was another gorge, different, but as in-\\nteresting lovely vales, glaciers, torrents, mount-\\nains, snow peaks, cascades, almost as numerous\\nas the hairs on your head, especially if you are\\ninclining to baldness, and so on. At Chamouni\\nthe monarch crowned long ago. I was a\\nmost willing worshiper at his feet. Like Mark\\nTwain, the only ascent of him I cared to make\\nwas by telescope. But I made that of the Bre-\\nrent, the next best thing. The mule ride again,\\nwith a guide at the bit but even that did n t\\nseem so good part of the time as my own feet,\\nand the last haK hour had to be done that way.\\nIt was all of a piece climbing up rocks and\\nplunging over stretches of snow, while my\\nlittle hand lay lightly not a bit of it ^with\\nthe tightest kind of a grip, as well as confi-\\ndingly, in that of my guide. He was as tender\\nof me as a lover more so as for the time\\nbeing we were bound to each other for better\\nand for worse. The Mer-de-glace came in too\\nnot the conventional walk across for one who", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "156 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nhad walked across the Ohio, what was that,\\npray Bah From Chamouni by diligence, in\\nan ecstasy all the way to Geneva. There for\\nsome days, with excursions on the lake into its\\nrealms of inesplicable blue, where everything\\nwas so unreal and ethereal. I felt as if I too\\nwere a phantom, a dream, a spirit, just as little\\nof a reality as all I was surrounded by. From\\nGeneva here.\\nAbout that book, and your need of the aid\\nof good taste, judgment and scholarship,*^ it\\nstrikes me any one who had to help that much\\nwould feel, like you, certainly very glad when\\nthe creature was fledged.** Thankee, sir; I\\nnever can bear to know what I am to have for\\ndinner, or any other meal. That for sauce.\\nThis for earnest. Call on Miss B I do n*t\\nknow the woman who is so equal to such de-\\nmand. She knows everything and has it at\\ncommand. She is a long distance beyond me in\\nsuch matters. This is no affectation I mean it.\\nMany thanks for your charges in behalf of\\nproper caretaking. I don*t mean to break down\\nif I can help it. Am now taking a good rest.\\nThis pension is a kind of a home Paris home.\\nI could teU some things of its kindness ^yes,\\neven petting ^would show how much I have", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "PARIS, 157\\nto be thankful for. The dear, good madame\\ntakes me in her arms, kisses me from ear to\\near/* and, what is better, smuggles goodies\\nin to me unbeknown to the others It is too\\nfunny to see her coming with one hand covered\\nwith a napkin and the forefinger of the other on\\nher lips My room adjoins the salon. I take\\nthe hint. Wouldn t you? Answer.\\nL. G. C*\\nParis, September i, t883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\n^^OU wrote the last day of the year and did\\nnot give me a wish for the New Did\\nyou forget Or do you think the custom puerile\\nI think I like it most heartily, even with its lim-\\nitationst as are set forth in some simple lines I\\ncame across, and which you must read to make\\nyour conscience tender\\nTender and true, friend.\\nYet all unavailing\\nTo guard or to give you\\nOne gift that can bless.\\nShould sorrow overtake\\nOr pain be assailing,\\nI could not assure you\\nOne trial the less.\\nTender and true friend\\nAs One the all-loving,\\nWhose arm \u00e2\u0096\u00a0will encompass\\nShould evil be near.\\nCling closely to Him in firm\\nFaith in His proving\\nTender and true, friend,\\nTlirough all the New Year.\\nI hardly think you deserve to know what\\nkind of time I had. You should not, only I want\\n(158)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "PARIS* 159\\nto tell so much I can^t keep from it I was in-\\nvited to a f riend^s Christmas Eve tree party. She\\nhas a lovely, cozy little apartment The tree\\nwas a thing of beauty/^ and we guests made a\\njam that occupied every available square inch of\\nstanding room* The elders proved to be more\\nchildish than the children themselves, clutching\\ntheir presents as generous Old Chris/^ called\\ntheir names, and screaming and laughing with\\nglee at and with each other. Not the tree, nor\\nthe presents, nor the toilets, nor **the goodies*^\\novercame me; but one superb, inexpressible\\nspecimen of the genus homo an Apollo in silver\\nlocks, the frosty though kindly glow of at least\\nseventy years. One sweeping glance sufficed\\nfor all the rest of that hilarious throng. Then I\\nsettled myself in the roomiest, deepest, sinkiest of\\nspring-cushioned arm-chairs,** and fastened my\\ngaze on him, to wander no more while he stayed.\\nHis wife did not come. How I did wish she had,\\nso I could see what manner of woman had dared\\nto mate with that grand creature.\\nWe, my hostess and myself, had a New\\nYearns Eve gathering. Nothing so common-\\nplace as a tree, though. We put our heads to-\\ngether to devise something unique, and with that\\ncomplacency characteristic of the **salt of the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "160 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nearth/* we feel assured we were a success*\\nHere s the program. See if you like it.\\nSalutatory, an impromptu poem, most care-\\nfully ivritten out beforehand and read by me*\\nThis elicited great applause. Some amusing\\nlittle characterisations by other ladies of our\\nhousehold. A metrical version of one of the\\nmany legends of that half-saint, half-angel of a\\nwoman no, I don t know where the woman\\ncame in Elizabeth of Hungary, by my hostess,\\nwho is a woman of much culture and many\\ngifts. This was received, as it should have\\nbeen, with the hush and silence of deep feeling.\\nMusic and games. Then a fishing frolic a big\\npond in which every guest was invited to fish,\\nas he or she had a bite, which meant a present.\\nYou can believe the fun waxed uproarious.*\\nI was in the pond to do the biting and put the\\nfishes on the hook; but didn t I make them tug!\\nSome of them got so many bites they sang out,\\nFishes, you needn t bite any more if you don t\\nwant to. Just on the stroke of midnight,\\nmadame recited a moan of farewell to the pass-\\ning year, and in the next breath hallelujahed into\\nthe New. We all joined in at the top of our\\nlungs, and immediately turned to each other with\\nhearty hand-shakings, warm wishes and some", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "PARIS. \\\\6l\\nkisses. Enjoying thus with much merry and\\nkindly talk that held us together till 2 a. m.\\nThen I spoke the lines I have copied for you and\\nwe broke up* We had our sdlon ornamented\\nwith American and French flags and evergreens\\nfrom Fountainbleau.\\nThey have a custom here of keeping\\nTwelfth Night/^ I never heard of it else-\\nwhere. The shops are full of cakes baked ex-\\npressly, each one containing ^*a charm/^ as\\ntiny as possible. A nice china pig^^ or baby\\nmost frequently; at least I saw nothing else*\\nIf a gentleman gets the charm, he names some\\nlady for his queen throughout the year; if a\\nlady, she names her king.** I got the hahy/^\\nthe weest of manikins in china. For the rest,\\nthe days come and go as swiftly as so many\\nrays of light, scarcely here till they are gone*\\nI have grown to begrudge the hours I have to\\ngivQ to sleep. I never go to hcd till midnight,\\noftenest later, recklessly sacrificing my beauty\\nsleep and then with the utmost reluctance,\\nand in the main feeling as if just risen from re-\\nfreshing slumber. It takes, I can tell you, all\\nmy awe of the laws of physiology to force me\\nto that.\\nHeaven of the weary head.\\nBed, bed, delicious bed I", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "162 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nI am not writing a book, painting a picture,\\ncomposing an opera, inventing a new fangled\\nbit of machinery, or even devising a new fashion\\nin woman^s gear No, nor am I planning any-\\nextra wickedness; have not committed such sins\\nas banish sleep, and yet I shun sleep. What s\\nthe trouble then? Of the most serious kind,\\nbecause beyond remedy. Not all the narcotics\\nknown to science can lull me to that acceptance\\nof tired nature s sweet restorer that should\\ncome as naturally as breathing and loving; it is\\nthis, it is this\\nThe years they are going,\\nAnd ah I I am growing\\nQuite old, yes, quite old. Gaffer Gray.\\nTo think of sparing five or six hours out\\nof twenty-four for oblivion Would it could be\\notherwise. For you see **of the making of\\nbooks there is no end, and readers must be\\nfound for them. None more eager or indefati-\\ngable than I. If only the days had more hours,\\nthe years more months, and sleep did not claim\\nI have Characteristics.* I am your debtor\\nfor all the years to come for having written such\\na book. *T would be but little could I say how\\nmuch. I thank you for your publisher s", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 163\\npromptness in sending me the book itself. It is\\none to have and to hold as a possession forever\\nto pick up and pore over, lay down and meditate\\non, and it has this quality of every genuine\\nwork: you cannot take much at a time; it\\nforces you to pause and ponder, and once\\nbegun you cannot put it away for long; it\\nclaims you like a cluster of luscious grapes,\\none at a time, and, indeed, with pauses be-\\ntween, but no cessation till the bunch is finished.\\nI shall not tell you yet which I like best, but\\nI will tell you which I had already read and read\\nfirst before your letter came, with its suggestion\\nof what I would most probably prefer, and which\\nyou evidently prefer yourself the last two I\\nam lending the book around. The old beauty\\nhas it now, and she quotes from it and uses its\\nanecdotes, by way of illustration, always with\\ndue acknowledgment of their source. **That\\nbook I am reading of Mrs. Collins friend.**\\nI think I never showed such unselfishness. My\\nreward is great, though; she is charmed, and\\nintends to get both it and Library Notes as\\nsoon as she goes home. I had a letter from Miss\\nB since she received her copy, and she is so\\nenthusiastic It is a capital book. The article", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "164: BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\non Burns I like best so far. I can*t tell what re-\\nreading may do for the others. I like the drift\\nof his mind exceedingly, and his Essays\\nthemes, whatever they are are unique, and the\\nflavor is sharp and wholesome. There is noth-\\ning better I have read that is modem ^that\\nreads in his direction.** There Are those not\\ngood words, indeed May it have half the suc-\\ncess it so richly merits I\\nWell, I must hurry to the finis. But first,\\nsuch is the vanity of a wise woman, I am going\\nto give you an excerpt from a love-letter that\\ncame in the same budget with yours I must\\nwrite to you to-night, because I have been think-\\ning and thinking of you, and wishing with all\\nmy heart I was with you, if only for these holi-\\ndays; for I am sure you are like myself, and\\nfeel loneliest at this time, when all are rejoicing;\\nbut if we were together, there would be such a\\nglow of affection that the proverbial yule log\\nwould fade by comparison, and it would take\\nseveral families to supply an amount of devotion\\nequal to ours. But let us hope we shall spend\\nmany Christmases together. I must and will\\nhave you, for I don*t believe there is any one\\ncares half so much for me, and I am sure your", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 165\\nplace in my affection is simply unapproachable\\nto the rest of woman or mankind either/^\\nIs n t she a darling of darlings who wrote\\nthat And it was not Miss B\\nL\u00c2\u00ab O* C*\\nPaxiSf January i, 1884,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "PARIS,\\nBl^jj^AVE been enjoying Paris to the last de-\\nlllg^ gree. Weather as near perfection as\\nthis sublunary sphere allows. The season\\nin full blast. Opera, theater and concerts for\\nourselves, these and all kinds of social enter-\\ntainments, balls, parties, dinners, etc., for those\\nwho belong here and are ^^to the manner\\nbom.^*\\nPresident Grevy gives jams and crushes\\nthe remains of the aristocracy seem most given\\nto the raceSf which occur almost daily some-\\nwhere in and around Paris; the ambassadors\\ngive their dinners and receptions; the artists,\\nthe literateurs, the everybody, are giving their\\nparticular kind of entertainment. Arsene Hous-\\nsaye gave one the other day his Assembly,*\\nit is called. It is peculiar, called ^^The Chase of\\nthe Dominos.* Everybody has to wear a\\ndomino. To insure an invitation, wit, vivacity\\nand gayety are indispensable, while, in addition,\\nbehind the masks of the women must be beauty*\\nEulogy exhausts itself on the brilliancy of the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 167\\nsuccess of this host. A dreamland palace, the\\nearth despoiled of its treasures to adorn it, an\\nexquisite cuisine, and the incomparable host.\\nThere is no hostess. One^s private character\\nhas nothing to do with it; only genius, it would\\nseem. Such a curious medley of guests as were\\nmentioned, Sarah Bernhardt heading the list of\\nthe feminine I I would n t have minded\\nbeing there, not incog, but invisible Just to\\nhave heard and seen that constellation of blaz-\\ning stars. Every name was one known to\\nfame.\\nI am having my chance at the musical side\\nof Paris.\\nA pleasant American family, father, mother\\nand two young lady daughters, give me the op-\\nportunity; always ready to go and eager to have\\nme along. I am more than gratified. Will\\nyou be shocked if I admit to a Sunday afternoon\\nconcert You know Sunday has none of our\\nsacredness to Parisians; it is only a better,\\nfreer sort of fete day for those who have time to\\nspare. Not all have. On my way to the con-\\ncert, a week ago Sunday, I saw the house-\\npainters busy; great wagons full of house-\\nplunder ^families changing their abodes, etc.\\nOnce in the concert-hall, The Conservatoire,\\nthe music made everything divine, I am sure.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "J68 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nI do not coax impressions so I think I may tell\\nyou, as proof of the character of the music, that\\nat one part I seemed suddenly to have escaped\\nfrom earth to that sphere we think of as Heaven.\\nHosts and hosts of orchestras were playing in\\nperfect harmony with choruses joining in of\\ncountless myriads of voices, and through it all\\nI was catching the music of the spheres. To\\ngive the least idea of how I felt, is beyond me.\\nI was more than lifted up into the seventh\\nheaven.** The entire audience seemed equally\\nunder the unutterable influence. It is con-\\nsidered the finest audience in every respect that\\nParis has.\\nAm to spend to-morrow at the Luxem-\\nbourg with one of the charming, young Ameri-\\ncan girls. Don*t you wish you could be along\\nShe is bright, well informed, amiable a girl\\nworth knowing and not too young say about\\ntwenty-six or twenty-seven. She talks well,\\nhas an active mind, is ambitious for knowledge,\\nand I like her. Besides, she cossets me if I feel\\nunder the weather. I think I like that best of\\nall Would not you I can answer for you\\nyes. I am too tired for another sheet. Are\\nyou not glad\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, April i, 1884.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\n(AS very glad to get your letter. It came\\nseveral ckys ago^ and I have been\\nwatching for that opportunity that never comes\\nto those who have nothing to do to answer it.\\nYou know my trick of promptness. I never fee!\\nquite comfortable with the consciousness of a\\nduty awaiting its performance. Consciousness or\\nforce of habit which N* import e; the result is\\nthe same. And any way^ are they not inter-\\nchangeable\\nYes, I am again a wandering star; or, if\\nyou will not let me go up into the empyrean, a\\ngenuine nomad. How some old Bedouin would\\ndelight in my companionship, if he could not\\nmake a hig ransom off of me But the delights\\nof such a life are not without qualification. The\\npassage in the Etruria was diabolical. Such\\npitching and tossing why, long before it was\\nover, I felt more like a jelly-fish than a mermaid\\nI was not sea-sick, but just so tired out with\\ntrying to keep my feet and my rations exist-\\nence became loathsome. Ever so many dis-\\n(169)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "J70 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ntinguished fellow-voyagers, but I did not care\\neven to look at them.\\nBut I had a beautiful week in London (not\\nin point of weather!), seeing sights and people.\\nLambeth Palace I cannot stop to tell anything\\nabout it that you ought to know; only I read in\\nhis own handwriting that curious sentence,\\nDttm spiro, spero. Charles R.,\\nof the poor king who lost his head. How I\\nwondered when and moved by what impulse he\\nwrote it And a story told by the custodian as\\nwe passed an empty niche which had once con-\\ntained the statue of Thomas a Becket Some\\nrepairs were being made. It was remarked by\\none of the workmen That niche once held a\\nsaint now the niche remains, but the saint is\\ngone.^* Immediately another spoke up: **Did\\nhe leave his address\\nWe gave the good part of a day to White-\\nhall afterwards, and saw the spot where Charles\\nwas beheaded, and looked through the window\\nof the banqueting-hall, now a chapel, which he\\nwalked out of on his way to the scaffold.\\nNothing in his life became him like the leav-\\ning it.*^\\nThe Government Buildings, too, proved\\nabsorbingly interesting, especially as getting to", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 171\\nsee them is a privilege. An English cousin is\\nan official, fortunately for us* I saw Gladstone s\\nseat in the Cabinet chamber. And Salisbury s,\\ntoo, removed to the opposite side of the table. I\\ndid not care so much for it. And from there to\\nTemple Bar; the church first, which I had seen\\nseveral times. Also the dining-hall of the bar-\\nristers. A member of that honorable body was\\nof our party, a friend of my cousin, and a cousin\\nof the sculptor Flaxman. He is a bachelor and\\nlives in chambers. As often as I have read\\nthat expression, I never thought of trying to\\nrealize what it meant. Imagine my excitement\\nand delight when he insisted on our going with\\nhim to his chambers for five o clock tea. It\\nwas raining, dismal and chilly outside. Such a\\nlot of crazy, queer, enchanting little cuddy-holes\\nas we were ushered into I ll tell you all about\\nthem by and by. He saw my fascinated gaze\\nat an old clock, and at once invited me to a\\nprowl with him. I do n t know how many little\\ndens he took me into, each stuffed full as they\\ncould hold of antique gems, curios, etc.; among\\nthem several lovely old clocks, aged three hun-\\ndred years and more. The conclusion of our\\nprowl was the crowning delight he gave me\\none I do n t know what I said, but I know he", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "172 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwill live forever in my heart. He was a charm-\\ning host, and I hope he will invite us again I\\nNext, we spent two days at Canterbury, not\\nonly *Moing the cathedral, but rambling about\\nthe quaint and curious old town, and getting\\nimpressions of its inhabitants, so unlike our-\\nselves. We attended vesper services in Little\\nSt. Martinis on the Hill,** where Christianity\\nwas first preached in Great Britain by St. Au-\\ngustine. Some parts of its walls are 1,500 years\\nold. I am not going to make a guide-book of\\nmy letter, but if you don*t know about this\\nchurch it is worth your while *to read up** on\\nit. Then we crossed the channel, and brought\\nup at Amiens. Its cathedral and museum are\\ntemptations to all tourists. We loitered two\\ndays before coming here. The time was well\\nput in. I fear I am more humane than esthetic\\nthough, for I was more interested in an institu-\\ntion, quite modem and altogether practical, into\\nwhich we stumbled, as it were. It was for chil-\\ndren whose mothers were out doing work by\\nthe day. They are clothed, fed and educated,\\nas well as kept from morning till night. I had\\nread about such an institution years ago in a\\nbook by Sir Francis Head, called **A Faggot of\\nFrench Sticks.**", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 173\\nAnd here well Paris is Paris! The\\nweather interferes though. It is rain, or clouds,\\nor fog, or dampness, almost all the time. Sight-\\nseeing does not prosper under such auspices.\\nStill we have seen a great deal. Among those\\nthat have fastened on my memory, like tar on\\none s best gown, is *^di sight I saw* at the Jar-\\ndin des Plantes. In one of the cages of the wildest\\nof the wild beasts a dog and tigress are dwelling,\\nand have dwelt together in peace and harmony\\nfor six years I And the birds and the animals\\nseemed as conscious of observation and as eager\\nto excite admiration as their kindred, the human\\nrace. There is nothing more interesting here,\\nI think, than this garden. The collection and\\narrangement of the plants are something won-\\nderful. Then its age, 250 years, and the asso-\\nciation of great names, such as Cuvier, Buffon,\\nHumboldt, etc., gb/^ a vivid impression of the\\nvalue of men to mankind.\\nI have had some new experiences in various\\nways. Several trips on the Seine in long,\\nslender steamers called swallows, both by day\\nand night, moonlight and gaslight. And drives\\non the quais, the most magnificent I know of.\\nPalaces and palaces, and gardens and gardens,\\non the one hand, and the grand balustrade over-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "J 74 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nhanging the river, with its myriad crafts, all re-\\npeated on the opposite bank, the drive bordered\\nby double rows of trees* One can^t help own-\\ning the beauty, grandeur and completeness of\\nthis Paris, not all of it like that of youth La\\nBeaute du Diable/* I have met some pleasant\\npeople, too. And was at a Thanksgiving Din-\\nner, turkey and mince pies, American fashion.\\nEverything tempting, but the pies looked so\\ndelicious, I said to myself as the hostess was\\ncutting them, If she does not give me a big\\npiece, I shall wish I had not come.^^ She did\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, December 6f )885.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\nY return will be delayed a few weeks\\nlonger. It was a trial to feel I must\\nsubmit to this at first, but since these dreadful\\nstorms have been raging on the ocean and coasts\\nI have become reconciled. I have had my share\\nof old ocean*s buffetings.*^\\nI am here en route for home. Miss B\\ncame from Sweden to Berlin and remained there\\na week. She had never been there before.\\nThen she came here, to join the lady with whom\\nshe had crossed and was to recross. On reach-\\ning here, our program had to be changed. The\\nArizona was not to sail at the appointed time,\\nbeing postponed to meet the new postal arrange-\\nments. Miss B *s friend got her head set on\\nthe Nile trip. Miss B was all eagerness.\\nThey would not go without me. The position\\nwas embarrassing. So I had to consent. We\\nleave day after to-morrow. Think of it You\\nhave bantered me to write to you from Europe,\\nAsia, Africa, and so on I Perhaps you will get\\na line or so from under old Cheop*s unfathom-\\n(175)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "J 76 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nable countenance, or from melodious Memnon*\\ncolossal knee* How I wish he it ^would burst\\nforth once more into that mournful plaint, just\\nfor me\\nL\u00c2\u00bb G\u00c2\u00bb C\u00c2\u00bb\\nParis, December 3, 1886.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "M\\nPARIS.\\nOURS of the 23d February came last\\nWi night. I had spent the evening out. It\\nwas pleasant, indeed, to find letters and papers\\non my table awaiting me.\\nSorry I disappointed you about the Jerusa-\\nlem trip. It was not my fault/ you may be sure.\\nThat is one of the drawbacks of traveling in a\\nparty. The composing members are much\\ngiven to pulling different ways and not making\\nany sacrifice of individual preferences. This\\nfriction is trying, but the kindly race of men\\n(Heaven save the mark!) is gregarious, and\\ntraveling alone is almost worse. So o\\no h Next time you shall have a letter writ-\\nten in the shadow of the temple perhaps an-\\nother under a canopy of the boughs of the Cedars\\nof Lebanon and yet another within sound of\\nthe purling brook of Hebron. Be consoled.\\nAbove all, do not doubt that I shall make con-\\ntributions from every grand division to your\\nentertainment. It is not so long ago you\\nprodded me with that expectation on your part.\\n(177)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "J 78 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nNot that I missed its flavor of mockery, ma,\\nfoil Ah! the golden fair enchanted** future,\\nthat holds the goals of all our ambitions, the\\nrealities of all our dreams, the crowns of all\\nour victories 1\\nDo not send the book. Anxious and eager\\nas I am to see it, I am not willing to run the\\nrisk of missing it. I am no nearer a decision as\\nto the date of sailing than this it will not be\\nearlier than the 26th of this, or later than the\\nmiddle of next, month. If the latter, because I\\nwill have waited for company. Some very\\nagreeable ladies are going then, and have urged\\nme to wait. When I persisted in holding the\\nnegative attitude, one became exasperated and\\nburst forth, I bet five dollars you will.** Did n*t\\n*^OId Kaintuck** speak out then? And if I\\nmust tell on myself, I have not felt so sure I\\nwould not since I\\nI like the title of the book more and\\nmore. There is genius in it. Whose Don*t\\ntell me not yours. It is **so smart,** as they\\nsay in Kentucky. I never think of it without\\nits stirring my brain to try *^to think up** a\\nbetter one. It must be a brilliant success.**\\nWe are in a tremendous hubbub. Ma-\\ndame** is moving.** We are going to be", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "PARIS* \\\\79\\nalmost next-door neighbors to Queen Isa-\\nbella.\\nAs soon as in order, Madame gives a\\nhouse-warming. She is a generous soul, and\\nought to be a cha.tela.ine. Her grandmother\\nwas a duchess at the court of Louis XVI. She\\nnever not only omits them, but makes chances\\nto givz entertainments. An invalid heiress fol-\\nlows with **ei five o clock tea in her private\\nsalon. There will be rivalry of tea-go wns;\\nmine is ready. Ever since I gave it a trial\\ndonning on its coming from the man-tailor,*\\nthey have called me Lady Collins. Bloom\\nand beauty having departed, age and wrinkles\\nare knighted. Heigh, ho why could not\\none have all honors together\\nJ-^. Kj*\\nParis, March 8, J 887.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "PARIS.\\nj^^ERE I am stilL You will doubtless he\\nji^iji^ surprised. I am.\\nDay after to-morrow will be a birthday an-\\nniversary, and everybody has found it out I\\nUgh! Think what a nightmare the prospect\\nof that tell-tale cake, with its little wax tapers to\\nthe number of my years\\nYou don^t know about the cake. My dear\\ngood landlady witt observe the birthdays of her\\nguests with a grand dinner. This cake is the\\ngrand piece de resistance/^ borne into the\\nroom and making the circuit of the table with\\nits little tapers, for the inspection of everybody.\\nWould you like such a fireworks^ display of\\nyour years\\nWell, being a man, maybe you would not\\ncare. But do not pronounce on me. Just wait\\ntill you are transmigrated into a woman to\\ncome into a knowledge of our much abused\\nreserve on this point.\\nIf a woman ever is the weaker vessel,*\\nbelieve me just here is where it comes in. The\\n(180)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "PARIS. 181\\nidea of home dominates her, though the home\\nitself has been desolated and broken up forever.\\nThis is not all in my case.\\nDo you know what it is to have dispensa-\\ntions of conscientiousness I am sorely troubled\\nat times, and the trouble grows. It seems such a\\nlife of idleness and self-gratification this I am\\nliving, one of luxurious wandering and enjoy-\\nment of the fair face of this lovely mother earth,\\nand beautiful accumulations from all times and\\nnations and peoples. The flight of time Schiller\\nsays\\nArrowy swift the present fleeth.\\nBut to me the years now seem come and gone\\nlike lightning flashes.\\nShall I tell you how the days go? Will\\nyou care to hear It cannot be but that much\\nof interest should come into them. The sight-\\nseeing,^ of course, never comes to an end.\\nThink how impossible when I tell you the\\nSalon,** just opened for its annual exposition,\\nnumbers largely over 5,000 works thirty-seven\\nrooms of pictures I spent yesterday afternoon\\nin them. Guess the wear on eyes, feet and\\nbrain of the most cursory survey. At last I had\\nto sit down, and close my eyes to shut them all\\nout, I could. As if I could", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "1^2 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nWhy I could not even sleep for their haunt-\\ning^ though I went to bed before ten to spare my\\neyes from further seeing. One gorgeous Cle-\\nopatra/* CabanaFs, proved as irresistible a sor-\\nceress to me as if I had been a Caesar or an\\nAnthony. It represents that incident given by\\nPlutarch in his Life of Anthony/ when, after\\nthe battle of Actium, dreading what may happen\\nto herself, she is having deadly poisons tried on\\nprisoners condemned to death, to find out which\\nwould cause the least suffering. I shall not go\\ninto a description, but, if possible, will get a\\nphotograph, and show you that to give you some\\nidea. Another historical incident, from the brush\\nof Charrier, is that of the Empress Ariadne, who,\\nbecoming disgusted with the excesses and cruel-\\nties of her husband, the Emperor Zeno, had\\nhim, when he was some say in an epileptic fit,\\nothers drunk walled up in the royal tomb.\\nShe is standing beside it, bending in the attitude\\nof listening to his furious struggle. Such a pic-\\nture has a dreadful fascination. Another, by\\nConstant, is of Theodora,** throned in all her\\noriental barbaric magnificence. This is Sara\\nBernhardt*s great character, and the picture is\\nvery like her, whether or not meant for a portrait.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "PARIS. J83\\nI saw her in it. Do not think I am going to sur-\\nfeit you on pictures though.\\nHere is something about living, working,\\nworth-having-been-born women. Two French\\nhdies of the St. Germain exclusive strain.\\nParents gone, fortune gone, health gone for\\nyears. Then the struggle for a living. You\\ncan t think how interesting I find them. One is\\na genius, an exquisite musician, a composer.\\nSome of her compositions are the daintiest,\\nmost poetical and pathetic I ever listened to.\\nShe is a writer of books as well, charming ones\\nat that. The other is a singer. They gave\\nme a Musicale a few nights ago. I saw some\\nmost entertaining messieurs. One in particular,\\ncould not speak English, but could read it. You\\nshould have heard him discuss Scott, Dickens,\\nand Shakespeare; the last with a fervid en-\\nthusiasm. FII tell you more of these anon.\\nOne beautiful, fallow countrywoman, divinely\\ntall and most divinely fair, proves delightful.\\nShe invites me to four o clock tea and home-\\nmade cake, and what talks we have, and what\\nbouts of sauce, not to say wit\\nThen Paris is looking its loveliest in the\\nwitchery of May greenness and bluest of skies\\nthat fairly laugh. Long walks and longer", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "J84 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ndrives and dawdles, and prowls in which\\nplethoric purses are swiftly depleted. I can not\\nkeep a sou in my pocket. How much I shall\\nhave to tell, but I know who will never\\nlisten\\nL* G. C*\\nParis, April 20, 1887.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "M\\nm\\nPARIS.\\nH you good friend, both the letter and\\nthe book have come. If either had\\ncome by itself, I would have thanked you most\\nfor it; but as they came together, I I thank\\nyou most for both. How could I do less\\nFifty-two, did you say it was No, I did not\\nsay. I never meddle with figures. If I do, I\\nam sure to get the worst of it. I do not like to\\nget worsted. Do you? As for a woman^s\\ntelling her age, who expects it? The silly!\\nAs a matter of fact, I can say, in a general way,\\nI am old enough, though I might be older;\\nand young enough, though I might be younger.\\nI might be sixty-two I might be even no more\\nthan forty, yet the trouble is I am neither. So\\nfar as all the world is concerned, it has no con-\\ncern whatever in the matter. So far as you\\nare, I have a misgiving you know without my\\ntelling. I only wish you had not known before\\nyou finished the book and that you had asked\\nme, and when I thus declined to tell on myself,\\nyou had wrought yourself into a fume about\\n(185)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "186 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nit. But don*t I feel cheated that I shall never\\nknow how you would have threshed out that\\ncereal! Is not it a curious fact that overpro-\\nduction is one of the ills of the present period of\\nour little planet^s history\\nThose thousands of pictures That mag-\\nnificentt enormous Salon Can you believe\\nit there are ever so many other Expositions\\nin full blast They come in such numbers and\\nswift succession^ to see each is to wipe out the\\nmemory of the one just seen as the succeeding\\nwave does that just gone before. Yet the great\\nnames are a temptation you do not even dream\\nof struggling against. You would not if you\\ncould. The last time it was Millet^s. I hope\\nyou have seen his UAngcius/* or at least an en-\\ngraving. There is the original or a replica^ in\\nBaltimore, I think, which has been exhibited in\\nthe United States. I had seen an engraving\\nonly, but it was an imperishable memory.\\nWhen it was mentioned as one of a full col-\\nlection of his works to be exhibited, you will\\nsee I could not have missed it.\\nI wish I dare attempt to describe the many\\nout of it that won at once my most enthusiastic\\nhomage. Almost all peasants and peasant life,\\nshepherds and shepherdesses, with their flocks,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "PARIS. J 87\\npeasant women {ceding children or chickens^\\nharvest fields and gleaners the subjects so sim-\\nple and homely, the treatment just the magic of\\nbrush and colors, the mastery of genius. Not\\nall held me equally but all that I liked held me\\nabsolutely. I never had a more unalloyed en-\\njoyment. How I wish I could buy all of them\\nand bring them home with me Not one was\\nfor sale, all being loaned by their owners for the\\npurpose of realizing enough to erect a monument\\nto his memory.\\nBut I can^t talk any more about pictures.\\nI want to thank you for **the little book.\\nThank you for it, from its very inscription,\\nthrough every phase of its working out, to\\nthe finished volume I have just read and laid\\ndown with a pang because it is ended, because\\nthere is no more. It is a book* It is worth\\nhaving written; worth having taken time to\\nwrite. It merits all the praise lavished upon it.\\nThere is not a word too much. It may be like\\nall those they liken it to, but it is most like your-\\nself. There can be no question of the brilliancy\\nwithin, the handling of such vast and varied ma-\\nterials of the enormous reading, the close atten-\\ntention, the critical observations, the careful\\njudgment, the good taste, necessary for such an", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "J88 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nacquisition of knowledge and information as you\\nhave so delightfully utilised. The best about it\\nis not that it is brimming over with this informa-\\ntion, brilliancy, entertainingness, power, but that\\nit is full of wisdom as well. The combination\\nto such degree is not common.\\nIt came **the little book** at nine last\\nnight. I read the letter, and another from\\nanother gentleman, then began to handle it* I\\ncut the string; took off the wrapping; looked at\\nthe binding; pondered over the title, liking it\\nbetter and better; then the reluctant plunge.\\nI knew I ought not begin reading, as if I should\\nbecome interested I could not stop. Late read-\\ning tells so on me. Besides, it is the worst form\\nof **laiQ** keeping right on till the book is fin-\\nished. Well, you or some one had cut only a\\npart of the leaves. You got the full credit. I\\nsaid when I began How thoughtful in him to\\ncut the leaves.** Directly I found some were left\\nfor me to do of course, exactly when I could\\nleast bear to lose a moment. My paper-knife\\nwent through with a rip, I can tell you. On\\nagain, almost holding my breath, or swept away\\nin a convulsion of laughter. Then more leaves\\nto cut. I became suspicious, and said something\\nnot altogether amiable, maybe He did this on", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "PARIS, 189\\npurpose/ There was repetition of cut and un-\\ncut all the way through; and I shall always be-\\nlieve, even though you convince me to the con-\\ntrary, that you did this with malice prepense\\nknowing the obstruction and interruption would\\nact like salt on thirst. At midnight I said: **I\\nwill not read another word/ I was very tired,\\nhaving had a long drive, nearly from noon till\\nnight, A word about that drive. It was with\\nan invalid heiress, the same I have mentioned.\\nI wish she and you might make a match of it.\\nShe is so bright and every way agreeable, be-\\nsides having the fortune\\nThe drive was in the Champs Elysees and\\nthe Bois du Boulogne, the fashionable resort.\\nIt is always a kind of gay carnival of fashion.\\nThe brilliant afternoons the handsome equip-\\nages, the elegant occupants arrayed as not Solo-\\nmon in all his glory was. The your sex not\\nless so than mine You ought to have seen one\\nI saw yesterday. Alone in his open carriage,\\nevidently *got up to attract attention; a lilac\\nribbon tie; vest of silk, matching in color; bou-\\ntonniere of flowers in the same dainty color; and\\npantaloons of plaid lilac and white. Was not that\\na spectacle? But once in the beautiful park,\\nsuch visions were lost sight of. The sky, air", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "190 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nfoliage and flowers were Eden^s own. I got out\\nof the carriage and gathered her hands full of dai-\\nsies and anemones* She sat in the shadow and\\nquiet of the trees watching me. One avenue\\nwas specially interesting. On the left were\\npretty bits of water, scarcely lakes, low hills\\nwith tumbling cascades, stretches of thick-set\\ntrees and flowery hedges. On the right, van-\\nishing distances of the greenest sward, edged\\nwith scattered clumps of trees, blotched with\\nalternate sunshine and shadow. Away off rose\\nthe hills that encircle Paris a misty greenish-\\nblack rampart against the sky. Sometimes we\\ntalked; sometimes were silent. These blessed\\nlong days At six o^clock we came home, lest\\nshe should become too much fatigued. But I\\ncould not stay indoors, and went out again for\\na walk. I came back loaded with old-fashioned\\nspice pinks have not you some in your gar-\\nden and great golden marguerites.\\nBut the little book.^* This morning I was\\nat it again long before getting-up time. The\\nmaid smiled when she came in at seven. And\\nnow I have read it, and knowing the pleasure\\nof the reading, I can not help wishing more of\\nit was still to do.\\nHurry and write another, please. Why not", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "PARIS, 19 i\\n**A Club of Two. From the note-book of a\\nwoman who was sociable Beat Mrs. Caudle\\nif you like, or Prue. I am so glad you have\\ngiven Prue and P^ a place in your book. It\\nhas always been one of my giving-away books.\\nOnly the other day I was telling of it to some\\nwho do not know it. Think of their loss.\\nCan not say a word about coming, but that\\nit will be soon.\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, May 29, J887.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "VENICE.\\nft\\nOURS of May J 7th ^ttst to hand.\\nDate of your previous one, April 23d I\\nmean its receipt* This is what I call a most\\nunreasonable space to let slip between. So you\\nsee, if the letters come oftener, I complain (being\\nconscience-stricken, thinking I am imposing on\\nyour good-nature), and if they lag a little, I\\ncomplain of that. If you can, match me with a\\nmore telling illustration of the impossibility of\\nsatisfying a woman I am writing with some\\nqualms, I can tell you. You did not ask me to\\nwrite till I got to Switzerland. A mighty neat\\nway of putting the spaces in for me as well as\\nyourself! Did you ever make a note of that\\ndistich of John Hay*s\\nThere be three things which when yoo think they are coming arc\\ngoing\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nWhen you think they are going are coming\\nA crawfish, a diplomat and a w^oman?\\nI could not get it in right, but that will not\\nhinder you from taking in that I am like to go\\n(192)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "The Old Lion at the Arsenal, Venice,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "VENICE. 193\\ncontrariwise. Besides, I know what you will\\nmiss if I do not write enough to make you go\\ninto mourning, a bit of crape at your button-\\nhole. You don*t know what a Florence letter\\nI wrote to you Now, I am not given to self-\\npraise; but I know the difference between still\\nand sparkling catawba, glass and diamonds\\nstupidity and sparkle.\\nSo I speak, having authority*^ that Flor-\\nence letter, written to you long before I was\\nup or the sun either; yes, just as Guercino*s\\nmaidens, fashioned of dusk and dawn, were be-\\nginning to put the stars out\u00e2\u0080\u0094 that was a letter\\nHad it only have reached you, it would have\\nthrown you into a fit of St. Vitus* dance, or\\nsomething equally demonstrative. I am a light\\nsleeper, late to bed, later to sleep and early\\nawake. I cannot get up ahead of all house-\\nholds, so I do not even hold in the fitful fan-\\ncies, but let them have it all their own way.\\nSuch fascination as the habit is I fust snap\\nmy fingers at the frowning brows of Messrs.\\nAbercrombie, Upham, Sir William Hamilton\\nand all that cloud of accordant authorities on\\nmental discipline. And for that letter, as for\\nme, I did not have any more to do with its flash\\nand fun and sauce and sparkle than one who", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "\\\\94 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsits on the sea-shore and watches the waves in\\na frolic, or as Longfellow says it for me\\nsits in f every and muses\\nUpon the changing colors of the waves that break\\nUpon the idle seashore of the mind*\\nAh! if you had only got that letter!\\nAlas and alas it was never even put on paper.\\nYou do not know how sorry I am, though, that\\nyou can never, never see it, and read it, and\\npirouette over it, and maybe frame it and hang\\nit up on your walls, to be a memorial of me for-\\never and forever. Indeed, I did so want you to\\nhave a Florence letter, for you know somebody,\\nRogers maybe, says\\nOf all the fairest cities of the earthy\\nNone is so fair as Florence,\\nSearch within,\\nWithout all is enchantment I\\nIt ivas so while I was there The fore-\\nnoons with Raphael, Angelo, Fra Angelica,\\nCarlo Dolce, Guercino and a few others; the\\nafternoons in long drives among the haunts of\\nGalileo, Mrs. Browning, Landor, and such\\nspirits. Will you ever know the delight of it,\\nthe beatitude? I hope so. Don*t put off the\\ncoming till you are too old. But now I am in", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "VENICE. 195\\nVenice! In Venice in June! And yesterday\\nand to-day have been each the very one de-\\nscribed as I have read somewhere The day\\nwas one of those which can come to the world\\nonly in early June at Venice. The heaven was\\nwithout a cloud, but a blue ha^e made mystery\\nof the horizon where the lagoon and sky meet.\\nThe breath of the sea bathed in freshness the\\ncity, at whose feet her tides sparkled and slept.**\\nAnd to-morrow will be the same; and day after\\nday I feel in all the spirit of a prophetess. In-\\ndeed, the weather might have been blown from\\nParadise. Drifting about in a gondola The\\nlargest, most ecstatic breath you ever drew must\\ncome in right here. Even that will not express\\nthe exquisite, intangible bliss of such existence*.\\nIt eludes words as quicksilver eludes the grasp*\\nI am having long mornings, enchanting after-\\nnoons, whole days of it. Do you wonder if I\\nfeel as if under some magician*s spell Come,\\ntake a drift with me, and find out for yourself.\\nFirst, the length of the Grand Canal. Your\\ngondolier is behind you do not see him. There\\nis nothing to save you from your enchanted\\nfate. The blue sky above the crystal waves\\nbeneath; the beautiful, stately old palaces on\\neither side, time-stained, unlike anything you", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "196 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS\\never saw^ a fascination to sight and dreams, that\\nwill haunt you the rest of your life; the other\\ngondolas sliding by; now and then a pleasure-\\nboat, with its crowded deck and gay awning,\\nand though moving by steam as noiseless\\nas ours no smoke; presently another bridge\\nshows its span ahead, and then you slip under\\nit and on; next you are idly noting a pleasant\\nlooking party of ladies and cavaliers coming\\nfrom the cool archway of a palace to their wait-\\ning gondola, and you are a little startled by\\nhearing behind the gondolier s voice, ^^That is\\nwhere Lord Beeron lived/ You remember you\\nhad meant to ask him to point out that particular\\none. You rouse, lean forward, give a curious\\ngaze, then drop back into your drift and dreams,\\npowerless to keep from it! Ah! that is the\\nRialto. You rouse again, and give another in-\\ntense look, and then it is left behind. You shoot\\nanother bridge and ^you givQ it up. This\\ncan not be earth. You know it is not heaven.\\nWhere are you? Surely you are at last on\\nthe direct way to it. Heaven the Heaven of\\nnot your reading the Sunday-school and cate-\\nchisms taught, but of your dearest dreams and\\npurest moods ^that is awaiting you there in", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "Lord Byron s Palace, Venice.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "VENICE. 197\\nthat dazzling glory of silver radiance where the\\nsky and water meet* You lean forward in-\\nvoluntarily, your very soul in your eyes, striv-\\ning to pierce that shining veil right to the Great\\nMystery. You do not feel baffled. You might\\nhave done it, only the gondola has curved into\\na side canal and your vision is shut from sight.\\nBest so. One could not bear such ecstasy\\nlonger and live, I think. But you are like one\\nin a trance for the rest of the way. Before you\\nsleep, you open your little day-book to make a\\nrecord of the day. Here is what will greet you\\nwhen you turn its pages in the future Per-\\nfect, Perfect Venice. That is all. Will you\\nsmile over it then? I wonder. Dear me! I\\nhope not, for the experience has come after my\\nhead is gray. Earlier you know\\nLittle we dream when life is new,\\nAnd pleasures fresh and fair to view,\\nWhile beats the heart to pleasure true\\nAs if for naught it w^anted.\\nThat year by year, ray by ray,\\nRomance s sunlight dies away.\\nAnd long before the head is gray,\\nThe heart is disenchanted,\\nNo no 1 a thousand times, no You will\\ndroop over it and dream it all over again, and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "J98 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nthrill and throb with the remembered rapture as\\neven now\\nFor passionate remembrance sake.\\nYou are good to tell me so much of your\\nlife. I am glad you had the gracious hours at\\nC with your friend. Will his verdict have\\nanything to do with the fate of the Essays\\nBut you must never think of me as a judge and\\ncritic. I appreciate^ enjoy and have a wonder-\\nful fund of enthusiasm, once it is set going. As\\nfor anything that does not commend itself to\\nmy taste/* I simply turn away from it. Why\\nuse the scalpel or scathing tongue I should\\nbe marvelously well-pIeased, though, to have a\\nreading of the Essays.\\nI had a letter, so long in the coming, from\\nMiss B some days since; so was already\\nin possession of the pitiful story. No, not\\nthat. I think whatever comes to us is our true\\nwork, hard as it may seem at the time. Did\\nyou ever see or hear of an argument of William\\nCorry*s in his prime that had a speech of\\nCaesar s in it One line of it left its brand in\\nmy memory. John (my husband) brought it to\\nme to read when he was George Pugh s part-\\nner, and we were living in Cincinnati. If I", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "VENICE. 199\\nam to die to-morrow, then that is what I have\\nto do to-morrow/* John declaimed it for me\\nas he had just heard Mr. Corry* It was never\\nto be forgotten* I hope you have written to\\nher ere this is in your hands, and may your\\nwords be indeed helpful, inspiring. How often\\nwe all need such. She is a splendid creature,\\nso gifted for a household deity! Caterer,\\ncook and nurse,** who so shines at the festal\\nboard, in the fireside circle, wherever knowledge,\\nwit and wisdom shed their light and graces!\\nAll that is wanting is the proper sphere. And\\nyet there be those so blind they will not see\\nWho is of them\\nWhat have you found in me that gave you\\nleave to think I cared specially for Kentucky\\ngossip,** or indeed for any gossip? Please, if\\nyou have such an impression, seek for a re-\\nvised edition of me. Assuredly** (Mahomet*s\\ncuss-word), your letters hitherto have not run\\nto gossip and I have not complained. **A con-\\ntinuation of the same to the same,** may chance\\nto be all sufficient.\\nYes, do not hunt up strange fiddle-strings\\non my account. You know I have reached\\nthe years where old strains are best. *AII the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "200 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsame/* write whatever goads you to bestow it\\nupon me. Oh I glanced from my window\\nif you could just see that overarching sky, that\\nis heaven if you could drink in a draught of\\nthis air, that is very elixir of life, if if you could\\nsee what I see, feel what I f eeL Oh oh oh\\nPerfect, perfect Venice 1\\nL* G* C.\\nVenice, June 8, J883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE.\\njATURDAY, at Zurich, yours of June\\n26th **came to hand/ Here in the\\nfiltered waters of glacier torrents, I drink to the\\nletters that are never written Now for your\\nresponse. Let it be brilliant as the dewdrops of\\nearly morning, alluring as was to our childhood\\nthat trip to find the end of the rainbow with its\\nreward of a bag of gold,satisfying as his day to\\nLongfellow s Blacksmith/\\nSomething attempted, something done/\\nBe sure it be of many simples composed in\\nall parts to perfection/ See to it you fall not\\nshort of Lamb s happy hit only this and noth-\\ning less.\\nAre you ready? I am in Switzerland.\\nBow your head; here is a snow-cap. Crane\\nyour neck here is a chain of the Rigi s light-\\nning. Now straighten to your loftiest stature;\\nonly that can wear this mantle of clouds I\\nsnatch from the shoulders of Pilatus to fling\\nover yours. And last, here is a dazzle of sun-\\nlight to set you in like a saint in an aureole.\\n(201)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "202 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nHow do you feel Do not be frightened. You\\narc not ready for your apotheosis; and I am\\nno high priestess. Besides, in a breath you\\nwill seem to yourself never to have been other\\nthan the grand creature I have made you. You\\nknow that vital quality of us mortals that makes\\nus feel we are greater than anything that comes\\nto us.\\n**We feel that we are greater than we\\nknow.^*\\nJust to think my last letter was from Venice.\\nHow long ago that seems, eons and eons I I\\nhave lived so much since then.*^ Can I ever\\ntell you the half? Ah! me! No, no. Only\\nthis impotent I wish, oh how I wish I could\\nI have ransacked ancient Padua,* think-\\ning of exiled Romeo. Saw the great wooden\\nhorse of Danatello, that stands in the largest\\nhall in Europe; holds sixteen men and is taken\\nto pieces, carried down into the street, and put\\ntogether again and used in procession on fete\\noccasions. Think of that Master Brook!*\\nIt is really a splendid, spirited-looking creature.\\nDid any of your traveled friends ever tell you\\nabout it I saw also, besides the thousand\\nthings** I must omit, Goethe*s palm tree, the\\none he made use of in his theory of the Meta-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE, 203\\nmorphoses of Plants. The tree remains and\\nflourishes* The man ;where is he Lights\\ngive us more light/* were his last words* I\\nthink he has found it. From Padua, I hastened\\nto Verona. Such a beautiful old city There\\nI sought out Juliet s tomb, in the old monastery-\\nhid away in its garden. And I found the house\\nof the Capulets, and stood in its court and\\ngazed with eager interest at that queer hat\\ncarved on its shield, placed above the entrance\\nin the wall. This repeated itself on columns\\nand in different places, giving evidence of the\\nprominent position of the family. I was quite\\nunprepared to find the situation of Verona so\\npicturesque, and one feature I have not seen\\nelsewhere, that of its innumerable mills on wheels\\nto be run into and out of *^the rapid Adige/*\\nJust fancy a line of these queer-looking structures\\nsome distance from shore, working away with\\nall the impetuosity that swift current can give,\\nand as steadily as is their wont But every-\\nthing about that Shakespeare-famed city is\\nunique and fascinating. Thence to Milan,\\nwhere I lingered a week, but was not specially\\nimpressed. The Cathedral is all that descriptions\\nand pictures make it, and the Milanese claim\\nfor it, **the eighth wonder of the world.* I", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "204 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nclimbed to its tip-top perch^ and every step re-\\nvealed some marvel of architecture and sculp-\\nture. The workmanship is amazing. You\\nhave read all about it, and doubtless think you\\nhave a very good idea of it but just come and\\nstand before it and haunt it, and you will despair\\nof ever taking in the half of its details! No\\ntwo ornaments or points are alike I I quickly\\ngave up, and looked away from it to the ever-\\nlasting hills, too far away to force me to mathe-\\nmatical calculations. Have you read of the\\nGrand Victor Emanuel Gallery, that finest ar-\\ncade in the world,** in shape like a cross, with an\\noctagon center surmounted by a dome, and paved\\nwith beautiful mosaic, where the finest shops\\nare, and which is the fashionable promenade, lit\\nby 2,000 gas-lights, and goodness I if I go on,\\nyou will think I am preparing to rival Badeker\\nand get up a guide-book. Well, I just want\\nyou to know my apartments were on it, and I\\nwas quartered equal to a queen Everything\\nwas gold and glitter, and grandeur and gorgeous-\\nness. And I took to it as naturally as a lark to\\nthe highest regions of air Of course, I saw\\nall the libraries, picture galleries, strange old\\nchurches, etc., and drove at the fashionable hour\\non the Corso, watching the gay and festive", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE, 205\\nthrongs in carriages, on horseback and afoot,\\nthis last most characteristic feature, perhaps, of\\nall I saw. The fair dames in superb toilets\\nholding levees in their splendid equipages! I\\nenjoyed the spectacle. Then I sped away to\\nthe Italian lakes. Guess how my heart beat at\\nthe prospect of seeing those romantic sheets of\\nwater. That was a summerland, indeed, with\\ntideless summer seas and tropical blooms and\\nsounds and sights! Nightingales sang there\\nnight and day* Magnolias, oleanders, mimo-\\nsas and myrtles were in full bloom, and the sun\\nshone with almost pitiless fervor. I saw them\\nall in their length and breadth. I haunted their\\nshores and floated over their lovely green waters.\\nAnd I fell in love with that bijou, Lake Lugano.\\nNext to our own Lake George, it is the most\\nexquisite sheet of water I have ever seen, and I\\nhave seen so many\\nPresently, almost before I knew, it was\\n**time to move on.*^ That is a hardship some-\\ntimes. But it was Switzerland that was await-\\ning me, and a brand-new experience. You\\nknow how it must have been ^the heart-break-\\ning at the leaving, and yet springing forward\\nwith a bound of eagerness to the unknown. You\\nmust have experienced that mixed feeling!", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "206 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nWhat have I not seen and felt in this wonder-\\nland Unspeakable Switzerland Every place\\nhas its own special exceeding beauty or gran-\\ndeur, or both. I came into it from Qhiavenna,\\nby the Val Bregaglia and Maloja Pass, my first\\nhalt being at San Moritz, in the Upper Enga-\\ndine. This is a fashionable watering-place, in\\nthe midst of the most glorious mountain and\\nlake scenery, and is a good point from which to\\nmake excursions. I think I shall only tell you\\nof the one I am the proudest of. It was my\\ngrand climb. First, a drive of seventeen miles\\nto the Bernina Hospice, among the Bernina\\nAlps, and from there a walk of two and a quar-\\nter hours, up, up, to heights far above the tree\\nline, into the vast solitudes of barren rock and\\neternal snows 7,800 feet high. Behold me,\\nwith alpenstock, giving all my energy and en-\\nthusiasm to it sometimes by pretty lakes and\\nprettier tarns those wee lakes that looked\\nlike tears dropped in the clefts of lofty moun-\\ntains *t* over bridges spanning turbulent streams\\nacross narrow ledges of rock and snow; up cliffs\\nthat made me wish I was a kid or a chamois;\\nand ever upward, till my breath was mere\\ngasping! At last I was there, at the Sassal\\nMassone, perched on a shelf in the mountain-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE. 207\\nside, looking on such a spectacle as I may never\\nsee again ^the Palu Glacier, sweeping down\\nbetween two immense mountains, on my right;\\nopposite, mountains to the left, a lovely valley,\\nclothed in the richest, tenderest verdure, and\\nholding an exquisite lake in its bosom* I gazed\\nand shut my eyes, and gazed and shut them\\nagain and again. This Sassal Massone is a\\nlittle refreshment-house cut into the solid rock\\non a shelf or terrace, with a seat for the weary\\nclimber to rest on while taking in the sublime\\nviews.\\nThus sitting, a chance turn of my head\\nshowed rows of the edelweiss, that lovely,\\ndowny, little Alpine flower, just back and a\\nlittle above me, growing right out of the snow.\\nI sprang up to look at them, and then went to\\nthe keeper of the rude hostelry to buy some.\\nHe said they were not for sale; that he kept\\nthem for tourists to see but that he would pro-\\nvide me a guide to take me to great fields of\\nthem not so very far away. The guide came\\nthe most loutish, stupid-looking creature a mis-\\nsion ever was intrusted to. We tramped through\\nthe snow, kept to our feet by our alpenstocks\\nand to the goal by our excitement. It was in-\\ndeed a vast field of snow, unbroken but by the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "208 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nquantities of the curious little flowers, which\\nseemed cut out of felt white, but not snow-\\nwhite just the tinge of common felt* The petals\\nradiated from a pretty center, a cluster of delicate,\\npalish-gold-colored flowers. The guide looked\\nfrom them to us and from us to them, then\\nsmiled, stepped back and bowed awkwardly,\\nto be sure for us to pluck for ourselves. He\\nwas instantaneously transformed from the stolid\\nclodhopper I had thought him to be ^not to a\\ngod, but a mortal with a beautiful soul.\\nI gathered to my hearths content all that\\nI could carry on the return tramp. If only I\\ncould have brought away the mountain-side\\nwith them The mere thought made me gasp.\\nWith hands full and head and heart fuller, full\\nto their utmost, I turned away and came down\\nfrom the mountains.* I saw three grand gla-\\nciers that day; walked to the foot of one, and\\nstood gazing in fascination on its fissured walls\\nof ice and its dangerously beautiful grotto, from\\nwhich *^a glacier torrent was pouring forth.\\nEverywhere, except at the very highest points,\\nmultitudes of the loveliest wild flowers were\\nblooming I Is not that a day to be set apart in\\none s life? I am sure I shall never recall it\\nwithout feeling myself a grander creature.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE, 209\\nFrom San Moritz to Thusis by the Julier\\nand Schyn Passes. All the routes have been\\nplanned to take in the finest if not most famil-\\niarly known scenery. These passes were an-\\nother experience of the most varied wildness,\\ngrandeur, bareness and loveliness. First, the\\nslow zigZdg of the diligence into the bleakest re-\\ngions of grey cloven rocks, piled into **AIps\\nupon Alps/* till they towered far up above the\\nsnow line; then great tortuous windings down\\ninto the heart of such luxuriant vegetation as is\\nnot surpassed, hardly equaled, by that of Ohio s\\nfertile valleys and hills. Then I would lend\\nyou my eyes if I could, just to have you realise\\nwhat a panorama of sublime beauty Switzerland\\ncan give, but I have no words to picture it..\\nThusis is situated at the entrance of the Via\\nMala, the famous gorge through which that im-\\npetuous stripling, the young Rhine, rushes with\\nsuch headlong recklessness. A wide and long-\\nextended valley, surrounded by every kind of\\nmountain and height, from knolls to snow peaks\\ntwo rivers tearing in at one end, uniting and\\nhurrying onward as the Rhine right through\\nthe center, and twenty towns dotting the dis-\\ntances, with castles and churches perched in\\nevery romantic spot. Why, it seemed to me", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "210 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthe earth was growing more beautiful and won-\\nderful every moment.\\nThe ruins of the oldest castle in Switzer-\\nland, on the summit of a spur of the Muttner-\\nhorn, a lofty, rounded mass of rock, partly cov-\\nered with trees and grass and flowers, partly\\nshowing only sheer rifts of limestone, rose just in\\nfront of my windows. I sat on my balcony and\\nsaw the moon rise among its crumbling towers\\nsail slowly across and above them, and mount\\nto the highest heavens; while below me a fine\\nband played such music as was in perfect har-\\nmony with that enchanting spectacle and my own\\nmood. Next forenoon I drove the length of the\\nVia Mala, and on my return left the carriage\\nand climbed to that seductive height all alone,\\nmy companion begging off. No, not quite alone.\\nI had some goats and kids for companions, and\\nam gregarious enough to own I was glad of even\\nthem. They just looked at me with a mild cu-\\nriosity, and nibbled on or clambered ahead or\\nwaited to let me pass. Perhaps who Imows\\na biped innovation was as pleasant to them as\\nthey were to her! The view at the top was all\\nI thought it could be. And that is my descrip-\\ntion in full. Is it not satisfactory\\nThere is a legend about this ruin that haunts", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE. in\\nme* The last lord of the castle blindfolded his\\nhorse and leaped from that fearful height to cer-\\ntain and awful death. I have seen since I was\\nthere a picture by one of Switzerland s first art-\\nists representing this scene. No danger of my\\never forgetting it now. Then I sped along that\\nrampageous youngster s course for several hours,\\nall aglow over the wonders it unrolled before\\nme, till nightfall brought me to Ragatz, another\\nfashionable watering-place. Its environs pos-\\nsess, in addition to all I have heretofore enumer-\\nated in the way of mountains, water and vale,\\nwhat is said to be the most curious and unique\\nfeature in this remarkable little commonwealth\\na gorge in which hot springs are inclosed. Hav-\\ning seen it, I would not have missed it for any-\\nthing, as my French teacher used to say. Im-\\nagine an enormous fissure in a vast limestone\\nridge, a mountain; it might have been cloven\\nthere by Atlas in that f orepast when such giants\\nwere no fiction. The depth must be from 150 to\\n200 feet; maybe more. Those awe-inspiring\\nwalls seem almost to meet for overhead they\\nswerve in many places toward each other, so as\\nto shut out the light in others they part to ad-\\nmit gleams of sunshine and blue sky. Far below,\\na glacier stream, the Tamina, is rushing, roar-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "2\\\\2 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ningf throwing up clouds of spray, and wearing\\naway now, as it has been wearing away for lo\\nhow many thousand years, that nof too solid rock.\\nA wooden gallery runs along one side fol-\\nlowing the sinuosities of the rock, and you have\\na walk of a quarter of a mile through this\\nstrange, weird, yes, appalling work of nature,**^\\nwrought by that foaming torrent, to the vaulted\\npassage, dark as Erebus, which leads to the\\nsprings* Niagara is not grander or more im-\\nposing than this Plutonian gorge in its way.\\nBut, dear me, I will never get through if I try\\nto tell you a tithe of what I have done and seen.\\nFor you see, there is the ascent of Rigi and\\never so much else. Well, the play will have\\nto be cut.^ I went up Rigi in the cars, saw a\\nsublime sunrise, and walked down on the other\\nside to Kiissnacht Believe me, I will never do\\nthe like again. It was a four-hours tramp, or\\nrather slip and slide, stumble, stick, stagger.\\nThe way is always steep, and then it was slip-\\npery from the recent rains. I am just getting\\nover the stiffness and soreness. No, I would\\nnot do it again for Rigi itself. But this Lucerne\\nis just perfect loveliness, and I am getting re-\\nstored rapidly.\\nAnd here I am ashamed of this long letter.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "LUCERNE\u00c2\u00bb 213\\nafraid of another sheets and have not said what\\nI most wish to say. It is about your book. I\\nam sure I shall like it, and hope you will stay\\nat home and get it ready for the public, especially\\nme. Yes, the title is good. I wish I was read-\\ning it this moment in print. I hope you have\\nwritten to Miss B Were you at the wed-\\nding of Miss S Tell me about it. But I\\nmust stop. I do not want to Good-bye.\\nL. G. C.\\nLucerne, July 26, 1883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "VIENNA*\\nSHALL make a beginning, but have no\\nidea when I shall reach the finis. But I\\nthank you beforehand not to say, **and the\\nlongest yet/^ if it should be. All equipped and\\nwaiting for the opera hour in Vienna; a pale\\nsunlight dropping from a lambent sky win-\\ndows wide open,\\nTo let the outdoor gospels in;\\nan easy enough picture to make to the mind s\\neye, if you are so minded*** The opera hour\\nis 6 o clock. Is n t that primitive for the sec-\\nond Paris, as this metropolis is fondly called by\\nmany It strikes me it is absurdly so and hien\\nincommodet as the French say. You see, din-\\nner is the midday meal all over Germany, This\\nplaces the supper hour at 7.30 or 8, So one\\nhas to eat too often or not often enough;\\nsomething before going and a hearty supper\\nafterwards, or only the latter, at 10 or H, I\\ndo not like either way, but generally omit the\\nfirst and then\\n(214)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "VffiNNA. 2J5\\nYour letter was waiting for me here on\\nSaturday* This is Wednesday* I was *^ever\\nso glad to get it The one pleasure you can\\nnever know in its supremacy till you are **a\\nbronzed wanderer in a foreign land/* is that of\\ngetting letters* I wish how I wish! every-\\nbody was as good a correspondent as I am* No\\nmatter how often, how brilliant or hoiif long\\ntheir letters were, they would be *^more than\\nwelcome/* as the happy father said on No* I2*s\\nadvent in the family circle* That is the right\\nspirit, even for a letter. But some people hm I\\nI can*t express them*\\nDid you mean it? did you know it? your\\nletter was so full of wise suggestions I put on\\nmy study-cap, and Frank Hazeldean sat down\\nto think.** To be sure, I am doing a great\\ndeal all I can. If I do not now, I never shall*\\nI did not make much out of the brown study\\nbeyond that; and this* If I were Goethe, or\\nany one that was going to be anybody, I would\\ndo as thoroughly as he* But to think at my\\nage of going to the heart and bottom of things\\nhow in vain What is left me but to skim\\nover the surface like a bird over water, now and\\nthen dipping in And anyway, is not a clear,\\ngraphic, comprehensive superficiality I am not", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "216 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS\u00c2\u00bb\\nsure I can make you understand me ^the next\\nbest thing to thoroughness? Have you not\\nknown people with that gift with whom it was\\na felicity to be thrown Felicity may not be\\nis not such an ultimatum as beatitude, which\\nis found only in the highest heights and deepest\\ndepths but think of the light, warmth, sparkle,\\nenjoyment, of the middle realms of air Is that\\nan excuse for my busy idleness Perhaps, Yet\\nthe deeper plunge of my wings comes oftener\\nthan you suspect, maybe. The wider knowl-\\nedge of and the more intimate contact with the\\nworks of nature, and no less those of my\\nfellow-men ^these have been the gains I have\\nmost counted on. My brain burned with great\\nideas equally among the towering ice-peaks\\nand awe-inspiring glaciers of Zermatt, and in\\nthe presence of the wrecks of Paestum^s sublime\\ntemples. To look on such wonders of creation,\\nbe the work of divine or human hands, is to be\\ndriven inward, far within yourself, in search of\\nthe creative motive. If for myself, and my power\\nof accomplishing, I am driven thereby into the\\ndepths of a profound despair, my pride in and\\nhomage to the worthier workers are only the\\ngreater. But this is enormous egotism. You\\ncan have of me only what you take. You re-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "VffiNNA. 217\\nmember that complaint of Swedenborg to the\\nangel: **l asked you for a fig, and you have\\ngiven me a grape/* I gave you a fig, but you\\ntook a grape/ was the angel s reply.\\nI shall try to do your hiddin^ in respect to\\nParis. I have not meant to do it in haste.\\nStill, neither the lovely city nor its unknow-\\nable, incomprehensible, original arouse my in-\\nterest to a very fervid degree. When I have\\ncome to know both better, I may change.\\nJ 8th. Don t you see you are in for a\\n4iary? My hostess came in with cake and\\nfruit, plums, pears, peaches and grapes. I\\nmust take some before going. Of course Eve\\nlistened to the voice of the charmer. She al-\\nways does, and always with the same result,\\ndoes n t she\\nThe opera was one of Wagner s, Tristian\\nand Isolde. The story belongs to the dim,\\nmisty regions of English history, mixed up with\\nIrish in a way quite baffling to one so ignorant\\nof the latter as I am. I wonder if you know\\nthe story. Before telling, I shall wait to hear.\\nI may remind you that Wagner as a composer\\nalways had an idea or ideas to embody. If you\\nhave seen or heard oh for a jolt to bring out\\nthe right word for witnessing an opera, which", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "218 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nis both seen and heard Tannhauser, you will\\ncatch my meaning. It is a story of temptation,\\nsin and repentance wrought out most power-\\nfully in music of unfortunate love and its penalty.\\nThe heroine is a fine-looking woman, and a\\npowerful actress, with a voice equal to Wagner^s\\nrequirements, which is saying a good deal but\\nshe lacked magnetism She did not once sweep\\nme into forgetfulness, or impotency of criticism.\\nInterpreting ideas through the highest science of\\nmusic is a grand and glorious performance, but\\nit is a fearful tax on the human voice. In\\nDresden, all the singers of his music but one\\nsang as if their voices had been overstrained.\\nHere they sing it as if they had mastered a dif-\\nficult task, but, like liberty, the price is eternal\\nvigilance. The orchestral music, though, al-\\nways makes up for other deficiencies. I hardly\\nsee how it could be finer or more perfect. The\\nhouse itself is faultlessly beautiful and comfort-\\nable. This last feature is worth making a note\\nof, for the Grand Opera House in Paris is\\nstifling, the most unbreathable atmosphere to\\nwhich I was ever subjected.\\nThe mise-en-scene here and all over Eu-\\nrope leaves nothing to ask for. At home by\\nhalf-past ten; let in by a concierge, who pro-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "VIENNA. 219\\nvided us with a small was taper to light our-\\nselves up to our apartments. There the post-\\nopera collation was awaiting. Don^t you wish\\nyou had been one at it Would not that have\\nbeen provocation to immense brilliancy Scin-\\ntillant as Sirius ^that would have been your\\nrole.\\nWas it inexplicable that I did not want to\\nget up this morning at all Yet I had to.\\nWhy? I think I have not told you. The\\nobject of my pilgrimage here is to have the\\ntreatment of the finest aurist in Europe. I am\\nnot over-sanguine, but hope for some benefit.\\nDeafness is a very trying deficiency. I dread\\nany increase, so I thought I ought to give my-\\nself the chance of even partial benefit.*^ The\\ncustom of specialists is to receive the patients\\nat their offices and there treat them. My hour\\nis half-past nine a. m. Hence the loss of that\\ndelicious morning dawdle and drowse.\\nWould you not like a peep into this magi-\\ncian^s quarters They are what may be called\\nstunning/^ I can tell you. Every time I go\\ninto them I finger my ducats pensively and sigh,\\nNeedless to ask we know who pays for the\\npiper.^* First, a square ante-chamber, with fres-\\ncoed ceiling and pictures on the walls. I have", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "220 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nnot more than glanced at this. From this two\\ndoors, through which I have been passed one\\nleading to a private reception-room, the other to\\nthe public. I go to the former, as I have my\\nhour and am not to be kept waiting* It is an\\noblong room with green hangings on the walls\\nand very dark, old oak furniture. There is a\\nlarge cabinet, the glass doors lined with green\\nsilk. I have not seen what is in it. In one\\ncomer is a beautiful pedestal, on which is a\\nbronze copy of that famous head of Homer in\\nthe Naples Museum. Between it and a door\\nleading into the examining office is a Venetian\\nmirror surrounded by small, rare paintings.\\nThere is a woman^s head that would haunt\\nyou for many a day could you see it. There\\nare two handsome glass cases with tier upon\\ntier of the bony structure of the ear mounted\\nbeautifully for inspection. In the examination-\\nroom, dark, crimson hangings, its ceiling an\\noval fresco of a blue, summer sky, flecked\\nwith fleecy films of clouds; and in the oval\\nborder at the ends four medallion portraits of\\neminent physicians, there is a book-case filled\\nwith fine editions of Shakespeare, Byron, Hum-\\nbolt, Lessing, Goethe, etc., a cabinet of ebony\\ninlaid with ivory, on which stands a bronze", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "VIENNA, 221\\nhead of Hippocrates, statuettes, curious little\\nclocks, etc. Another cabinet has some dainty\\nbits o\u00c2\u00a3 china, a pair of candlesticks of tortoise\\nshell inlaid with ivory, and more of such things\\nthan would fill several sheets* On the walls\\nare most excellent copies of Rembrandt s por-\\ntraits of himself and that wife Saskia* he was\\nso proud of. The frames of these are simply\\nworks of art in wood carving, Two land-\\nscapes by Zimmerman, the first time I have en-\\ncountered him out of the large and public\\ngalleries. The large public reception-room is\\nfit for a palace the walls from ceiling to floor\\ncovered with pictures? tables, cabinets and\\nchairs in ebony inlaid with ivory rare mirrors\\nand china, etc. Now, I have not enumerated\\nthe half. What do you think of it Is it any\\nwonder I and my ducats have a private confab\\nover it\\nFrom that interview this morning, still not\\nmuch more than half awake and alert, we went\\nto the Palace to see the cabinet of coins and\\nantiques. The coins always overwhelm me,\\nso much time must be given to do anything with\\nthem, so I am disheartened. I passed soon to the\\nantiques. How your eyes would snap to\\nfind themselves gazing at the seal ring of Alaric,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "211 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\na large sapphire with a head in intaglio and a\\nheavy setting looking like hammered gold.\\nWhat a giant he must have been if the size of\\nthe ring did no injustice to the finger. And a\\nlarge vase of Cleopatra^s, goId-gilt with a wide\\nborder of exquisite cameos, carvings and pre-\\ncious gems, and the center a portrait of herself\\nin jewels, rich jewels of the mine.** Also, an\\nagate vase of twenty-nine and one-half inches\\nin diameter, from the bridal treasure of Mary\\nof Burgundy. Nothing interested me more\\nthan a bronze tablet, with a prohibition of the\\nBacchanalia, J 86 years before Christ. I made\\nout a few words in the time I gave it.\\nYesterday morning I was at the Imperial\\nLibrary, in the same edifice; the right name is\\nthe Imperial Berg. There I saw fragments of\\nthe Gospel of the Sixth Century on purple parch-\\nment with silver and gold letters of Genesis,\\nof the Fourth; a map of the Roman roads, A.\\nD. 160; Tasso*s own copy (manuscript) of\\nJerusalem Delivered,** and the prayer-book of\\nCharles V. The poet was not sparing of\\nerasures, and the prayer-book was pretty well\\nthumbed. Men die but their works live after\\nthem and what tales they do tell on them.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "VIENNA. 223\\nI could write on and on^ filling up the in-\\nterval since the last letter, but, to quote from an\\nold Cincinnati physician, Enough is a\\nplenty/\\nL. G. C\\nVienna, October J7, 1883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "SIENA.\\nFEBRUARY 22d, we took the train for\\nNice^ via Lyons and Marseilles. Spent\\nthe first night at the former and remained long\\nenough next morning for a drive that took in\\nthe best part of the busy^ populous, prosperous\\ncity. It is ever so much larger than I was think-\\ning of, and its situation is one of extreme beauty.\\nIt is situated at the confluence of the Rhone and\\nthe Saone. Those lovely rivers wind pictur-\\nesquely through it, spanned by handsome bridges\\nthe Rhone by eight and the Saone by thirteen\\ndividing it into three parts, edged by broad\\nquays and shaded by trees. The ranges of\\nnear hills are surmounted by fine residences,\\nfrom which the loveliest views stretch out to\\nmisty mountains in the distance to the east,\\nsouth and west. Nothing was wanting.\\nFrom there to Avignon was simply ravish-\\ning. The route descended the valley of the\\nRhone, almost touching its lapping wavelets.\\nWe stopped off at Avignon till the next train,\\nwhich gave several hours time enough to see\\n(224)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "SENA. 225\\nthe special things I had in my mind* Of course^\\nit was a kind of pilgrimage to the shrine of\\nPetrarch^s Laura. We saw the old Papal pal-\\nace, the home of the popes during that century\\n(from 1309-77) of their residence there* It is an\\ninteresting but dirty old pile, being used now as a\\nbarracks French soldiers, in common with their\\nnation, being not especially clean and neat* The\\ntorture and the prison towers were interesting\\nhistorically, but the beautiful faded frescoes on\\nthe walls of the popes* private chapel rather\\nobliterated everything else* In one place, Pe-\\ntrarch s face shone forth in almost its original\\nfreshness* The hair was golden, and the dark\\nhazel eyes looked straight out with a living look,\\nas if the brain behind were busy over all they\\nlooked upon* Mounting a little higher, we peeped\\ninto the cathedral and higher still, we reached the\\nRocher des Doms, an abrupt eminence laid out\\nin pleasant grounds, that command what is said\\nto be one of the most beautiful prospects in\\nFrance*\\nThence we drove to the Musee Calvet,\\nwhich contains the Vemet gallery, pictures of\\nthe four generations of that family of artists*\\nThere was a portrait of Petrarch, over which\\nhung one of Laura* In the garden attached is a", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "226 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsimple, tasteful monument to Laura a square\\npedestal surmounted by a globe, from which\\nrises a cross with a wreath of flowers hung upon\\nit. It is all of white marble. From there we\\ncontinued our drive across the bridge, from\\nwhich is seen an old bridge stretching about\\ntwo-thirds of the way across the river, with\\ncrumbling walls and arches. One end is en-\\ntirely gone. I am sure it is left just as it is\\nbecause of its effectiveness as a feature in the\\nview.\\nRecrossing the bridge, we drove around\\nthe greater part of the city to see the fine old\\nwalls dating J 349, and still in an admirable\\nstate of preservation.\\nThe moon was just full, and rose as we\\nshot out of the station for our sixty-five miles\\nrun to Marseilles. We remained at Marseilles\\nfor several hours next morning, and had the\\ninevitable drive. It was along the quay, and I\\nhad my first glimpse of the blue Mediterranean.**\\nIt was an animated and thoroughly foreign\\nspectacle; but the wind was high and biting,\\nand the dust excessive, which made everything\\nand everybody look dirty, even myself; so I\\nwas glad to settle down in our car for Nice.\\nWe were soon in the tropics,** olive or-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "SENA. 227\\nchardst orange and lemon groves, almond trees\\nin bloom, palm trees, etc., lining both sides of\\nthe track.\\nAt Cannes, an English lady, titled. Lady\\nG got into our carriage, and she was thor-\\noughly well-bred and agreeable. The train\\nwas crowded, and her husband had to go into\\nanother car, our carriage* being for ladies\\nonly. No exception, even for **my lord.\\nLady G then pointed out Gladstone s villa\\nand other beautiful places, and told us with a\\nlow, amused ripple of laughter of her gambling\\nat Monte Carlo it was very mild; she laid\\ndown a five-franc-piece, and lost; laid down\\nanother, and won so I quit even, she said.\\nWe went to different hotels. Her carriage and\\nservants in livery were waiting for her; and\\nours, a special one sent from the hotel for just\\nus two was waiting for us. Another carriage\\nfrom our hotel bore thither a handsome baron,\\nwith a love of a dog and as we arrived at\\nthe same time, our arrival created something of\\na sensation It was a lovely hotel, right on the\\nsea front, with a beautiful tropical garden in\\nfront one wing ran out in front too; it was a\\ntwo-story chalet. I had the corner room with\\nwindows taking in all that beautiful out-doors.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "228 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nI saw the moon rise. out of the sea; and at inter-\\nvals all night, watched her course to her setting.\\nThen I saw the magical clouds and lights of\\nthe dawn on the water, and Venus rise and\\nhurry away to herald the sun coming up in all\\nhis glory.\\nWe went to hear Bishop Littlejohn, of\\nRhode Island, at the American Chapel in the\\nforenoon; walked on the fashionable promenade\\nin the early afternoon then a tram-drive to the\\ncemetery to see Gambetta^s monument and\\ngrave. The cemetery is on a high hill whose\\ntop is a fine plateau. In the most conspicuous\\npart is a large square railed in by an iron fence\\nentirely concealed by floral devices. In the\\ncenter of this square rises a lofty pyramid, com-\\nposed of floral offerings of every conceivable de-\\nvice, that were sent, it would seem, from the\\nuttermost parts of the earth, to his funeral.\\nScattered round are other pyramids of the same.\\nI think they said in Paris there were five hun-\\ndred thousand floral offerings or tributes sent.\\nNext day, we made an excursion to\\nMonaco and Monte Carlo! The former has\\nthe royal palace atop of a height with a view\\nthat would make a lazarone of me! I am\\nsure I could do nothing but sit in *rapt", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "SENA. 229\\necstasy and gaze at the blue sky, through the\\nsycamore branches, or the denser blue sea from\\nthe balustrades that run along the edge of the\\ngreat square in front. There is a barrack also.\\nYou know Monaco is one of the smallest king-\\ndoms in the world. Its standing army numbers\\nfifty soldiers I saw a number of the fine, amiable-\\nlooking fellows. They looked trim, immacu-\\nlate and soldierly, and as if they did not enjoy\\nto the fullest extent their superabundant idle-\\nness. I can not attempt to describe the luxuri-\\nous and sumptuous magnificence of the royal\\napartments. A lovely drive of ten or twelve\\nminutes took us thence to Monte Carlo. We\\nwent into the Casino, the great gambling palace,\\nmade the tour of its superb halls and eight large\\ntables crowded with players of both sexes and\\nall ages and ranks. It made me heart-sick in a\\nvery few minutes, and I sat apart watching the\\nanomalous and painful spectacle till my com-\\npanion wearied, too, which was not till she had\\ntried her luck and like Lady G *^come\\nout even. We had a dream-drive home\\nin the late afternoon. Next morning, a\\nparty of seven of us chartered a kind of coach\\nfor the celebrated Comichen drive over the old\\nRoman route as far as Mentone. From there", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "230 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwe went to Genoa by train, never out of sight\\nof something of exquisite beauty. Then Genoa\\nfor two nights and a day, a field day of sight-\\nseeing ^four palaces, four churches, a drive and\\nshopping! Pisa for another night and day;\\nsaw its incomparable group ^Duomo, Cam-\\npanile, Baptistery and Campo Santo. How\\nlittle I had conceived of their magnificence and\\nbeauty From Pisa to Siena. Such a won-\\nderful old place as this is We leave to-morrow\\nfor Naples, via Rome, for a day, to do it,** and\\nreturn to Rome for Holy Week and Easter. I\\nset aside three months for Italy, but Rome and\\nFlorence are a world in themselves for me. It\\nsnowed here yesterday; so it is very cold to-day.\\nI have had views at intervals of snow-cov-\\nered mountains from Lyons here. I saw Mont\\nBlanc distinctly a colossal white specter, tow-\\nering grandly in the upper heavens at one point\\non the way. They said it was about ninety\\nmiles distant. They are splendid to look at, but\\nnot to feel. This cold on my travels has cut\\nme down so. I am too stupid to write a decent\\nletter.\\nL. G. C\u00c2\u00bb\\nSiena, March 4, t883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "ROME,\\nBj^ LEFT Paris four weeks ago this morning;.\\n^Ig) I cannot for the life of me remember if I\\nhave written to you in that time. Seems to me,\\nthough, I wrote from Siena. Anyhow, I will\\nmake that my starting point. From there we\\nthe lady who is traveling with me is an Ohioan\\nfrom G originally, and the sister of H. H.\\nB the historian of the tribes of the Pacific\\ncoast ^went to Naples via here. We spent a\\nnight and a day driving about in the brilliant\\nsunshine, seeing many points of interest by\\nway of preparation for my return. Then on to\\nNaples. It was raining hard and H o clock\\nat night when we reached it. Several days of\\npromiscuous rain and shine, the former out of\\nall proportion to the latter, rather disgusted me.\\nI could not get to Capri, to Baja, to the top of\\nVesuvius. I had the views between showers\\nof that world-renowned bay, and went in them\\nto the churches, museums, and the lovely palace,\\nCapodimonte. It both rained and snowed a little\\nwhile I was inside the last. Of course you know\\n(231)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "232 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nit is atop of one of the loftiest points about\\nN f and that it is full of pictures and all\\nkinds of lovely things. But there is one paint-\\ning there I think you may not have heard of\\nMichael Angelo kissing the hand of his dead\\nfriend, Vittoria Colonna. You remember he\\nonce afterwards regretted he had not kissed her\\nbrow or lips. This is a grand picture, the\\nfigures life-size. Vittoria lies shrouded in a rich\\nwhite satin robe, confined about her feet with\\nlaurel branches. The face has a worn look\\nthat of\\nlong disquiet\\nMerged in rest.\\nAngelo is bending down, with his lips touching\\nher folded hands and his countenance knotted\\nwith grief and the heavy sense of loss. Ah I no\\nfuture would ever be to him like the past I I\\nfelt his loss like my own; and the tears sprang\\nquick and blinding. This was the only picture\\nof them all I brought away with me. At the\\nMuseum, the Pompeian frescoes, the Farnese\\nHercules Bull, made the deepest impression.\\nOne of the frescoes, a Nereid on the back of a\\nsea panther, I tried to get a photograph of, but\\nfailed. You know Donneker^s Ariadne? I\\nthink he must have got the idea from this, and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "ROME. 233\\nas I have it in ivory the most perfect little\\ngem I wanted this too. I saw a very curious\\nand interesting spectacle in one of the churches^\\nSt. Dominico, in the sacristy the coffin of the\\nMarchese di Pescara^ Vittoria Colonna^s hus-\\nband. It was one of a number, ten of which\\ncontained the remains of kings and queens,\\nplaced around the walls just below the ceiling.\\nThey had faded scarlet covers. On his was an\\ninscription by Aristo; above it, his portrait; at\\none end, his banner; and attached to the side,\\nhis sword. Everything concerning that noble\\nwoman is of the deepest interest to me; so I\\nmade a pilgrimage to see the portrait and coffin\\nof the lover-husband she has embalmed in her\\nverses.\\nThe rain continuing, we broke up camp,**\\nand went to Pompeii. It poured for a day and\\na half there; and then the sun burst forth and I\\nspent all Sunday in that exhumed city. Impossi-\\nble to convey the slightest idea of the fascination\\nof it. Come and try it for yourself. At night Vesu-\\nvius added the strange and rather terror-inspir-\\ning charm of its glowing crater, slow-flowing\\nlava and brilliant column of smoke rising far\\naloft. It kept me going to my window all night.\\nFU tell you about it some day. Next to La Cava,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "234 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\na beautiful town in a vale surrounded by chains\\nof the most picturesque mountain peaks. There\\nit rained and snowed again snowed heavily on\\nthe mountain tops. All the vale was dressed\\nin the living green of mid-spring. The snow\\nin it was a March flurry. From there we had\\na lovely drive a Cornichean drive around\\nthe headlands of the sea to Amalfi. Read Long-\\nfellow s poem ^Amalfi. I clambered to the\\nConvent (now a hotel) for the view and lunch.\\nBoth were incomparable. Read the poem\\ncopied in the Guest-book and shown with great\\npride, and left as Eve left Paradise, with re-\\nluctant steps and slow. Next day, Paestum\\nOh those inexpressible ruins What an ele-\\nment ^worship has been in the life of our race.\\nI never realized this more deeply than in those\\nmajestic old temples. I gathered acanthus from\\ncrevices in the crumbling columns and stones of\\nthe floors. Next day Castellamare and Sor-\\nrento, with another ideal drive between them.\\nAt the latter, I went to the finest orange grove\\nin that district, and gathered oranges from the\\ntrees for myself. Ah I that was fruit fit for the\\ngods. Naples again and rain. I waited two\\nmore days for Capri in vain. Spent them at\\nthe Museum, where I fell in love again", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "ROME* 235\\nand this time with youth and beauty, a bronze\\nstatuette of Narcissus listening to Echo* If I\\ngave myself leave how could ra.ve about it.\\nI got every photograph I could find and mean\\nto have a copy if I can find one* It was found\\nin Pompeii* What lovers of beauty peopled\\nthat ill-fated city*\\nI have been here since Saturday* Sun-\\nday was Palm Sunday at St* Peter^s* I\\nwent* The grand edifice did not disappoint*\\nThe ceremonies and music did* Shall I send\\nyou a leaf of the consecrated palm Monday\\nwas spent in getting settled. Tuesday, the\\nAlbani Villa* To-day, the Sistine Chapel and\\nRaphael s Transfiguration at the Vatican and\\nGuidons Aurora at the Rospigliosi Palace.\\nHave I ever told you how I wished\\nwith a passionate intensity to spend a full\\nwinter in Rome? and now I am having the\\nfulfillment* Almost I can believe Goethe,\\nTime brings the fulfilment of what is passion-\\nately longed for when we are young.* Those\\nare not his words perhaps, but they convey his\\nidea. When I first read them twenty or twenty-\\nfive years ago, I did not agree with him.\\nCurious that the flight of time which has made\\nme reject faith in the principle of compensation,\\nshould make me a believer in that.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "236 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nWhoever/* says Chateaubriand, has\\nnothing else left in life should come to Rome to\\nlive there he will find for society a land which\\nwill nourish his reflections, walks which will\\nalways tell him something new/* Read\\nagain what Hawthorne says in The Marble\\nFaun/* that after one has lived in Rome and\\ntalked it and left it, he is astonished to find his\\nheartstrings have mysteriously attached them-\\nselves to it and are drawing him thitherward\\nagain, as if it were more familiar more inti-\\nmately his home than even the spot where he\\nwas bom.** Do you know I feel every word of\\nthis! K you want to have a touch of this\\nRoman fever read, stopping to make pictures to\\nyour mind*s eye as you read The Marble\\nFaun,** Hans Andersen*s Improvisatore,**\\nStorey*s Robe di Roma/* and Ouida*s Ari-\\nadne/* This last you must give me your\\nopinion of. I have been to all the places she\\nnames; almost to all each names. The\\nweather is mild, generally sunshine to make\\none think the worship of that luminary not the\\nworst the world has ever known.\\nSpring flowers are thick everywhere.\\nYesterday brought such a clever letter from", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "ROME. 237\\nMiss D I think I must quote a bit or\\ntwo to give you a taste of her quality/\\nI had sent some Xmas souvenirs to her\\nand her sisters* Of the younger two very\\nyoung she said: **You should have seen\\nD and M when they told their friends,\\nMy cousin in Paris sent me this/ with the air of\\nbeing thankful that they were not as other little\\ngirls that had no cousin in Paris/\\nL. G. C*\\nRome, March 19, J883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "ROME,\\njE spent a day at Amalfi. From La\\nCava^ a pretty town in an extensive\\nvale shut in with the most picturesque chains\\nof mountains, we took an open carriage for\\nthe three hours drive. It soon struck the sea-\\ncoast and wound all the rest of the way around\\nits headlands, doubling its promontories, retreat-\\ning into its bays and inlets and dropping almost\\nto the water s edge, and presently mounting up-\\nward into almost Alpine heights* The head-\\nlands and cliffs were frequently broken into\\nevery imaginable form of rock sculpture\\ncolumns, cones, pyramids, grottoes and castel-\\nlated walls of defense and fantastic ruins. The\\nsea beat the shore, here, a sheer precipice, and\\nthere a white sanded beach, then rolled away a\\ntangled mass of the most exquisite and in-\\nnumerable shades of blue, green, purple, black,\\ngold and silver. The coast stretched around in\\na vast semi-circle of silver till it lost itself in the\\nmisty horizon. Little villages lay at our feet,\\nran up the hill-sides with their terraces of\\n(238)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "ROME. 23?\\norange-groves, or clung to the cliffs far over-\\nhead like martins nests in winter* A long\\nrange of snow-capped mountains reared them-\\nselves above Salerno, and sent us an icy blast\\nnow and then. There had been quite a snow\\nthe day before. We rattled up to our albergo\\nat eleven. This was at the foot of the hill our\\ndestination was an old monastery of the Ca-\\npucins, now a hotel, of which this was the\\nporter s lodge. The same proprietor conducts\\nboth. He met us with the welcome accorded\\nto favored guests, and gave us a guide, and we\\nwere off at once.\\nThe practical should not be neglected en-\\ntirely for the picturesque, so, we took in on\\nour way, a macaroni factory. We saw the\\nflour, then the kneading, last the moulding.\\nThe kneading is quite peculiar, and a long and\\nfatiguing part. There is a flat, round table\\nwith a beam that works on and around it, the\\ndough being placed between. Six youths of\\neighteen or twenty were on the end and worked\\nit up and down and back and forth. The\\nwhole had a joint resemblance to a grist-mill\\nand the game of see-sawing. The boys were\\nbare-legged and looked very clean and cool.\\nWhen the dough is sufficiently kneaded, it is", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "240 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ntransferred to the mould. This is a cylindrical-\\nshaped machine, filled with the small cylinders\\nthrough which the dough is forced to convert it\\ninto the little tubes with which we are so\\nfamiliar. The dough is placed on one end and the\\npressure applied, which forces it through. The\\nseveral squads of workmen are very eager to\\nshow off at their best, their palms tingling, no\\ndoubt, in expectation of the accustomed fee.\\nLeaving this factory, we began climbing\\nsteps. The monastery is the hollow of a rock,\\nwhich rises abruptly from the sea, has cloisters,\\na veranda, a** terrace-walk,^* a kind of collonade,\\nand from innumerable points the most charming\\nviews. Longfellow had been there ahead of\\nme, for which I returned thanks on finding\\nin the guest-book his poem ^*Amalfi.** As I read\\nit my eyes went wandering over all therein so\\nfelicitously described. The salon was the re-\\nfectory of the monks, and each window, glazed\\nto the floor, opened on a veranda. I shut my-\\nself out on one, and, leaning on its solid stone\\nbalustrade, gave myself up to the dreamy fas-\\ncination of the enchanted land. Do read\\nthe poem, and try to picture each feature with\\nyour mind s eye. The description is perfect.\\nAfter lingering till the very last moment, we", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "ROME. 241\\nfound our guide, and took another route to\\nthe albergo, where we had left our carriage.\\nWhether the descent to Avernus is easy or\\nnot depends upon the grade of descent. That\\nwas not many degrees removed from sheer.^*\\nBelieve me, it was not easy.* It dropped us\\non the beach, and the white-caps gave us\\nclose chase here and there. Nothing to com-\\npare, though, to that of a battalion of little beg-\\ngars who became so importunate, we had to\\nturn our umbrellas into weapons of both defense\\nand attack, whereupon they yelled and shouted\\nwith laughter. So we parted merry foes,* if\\nneither side could boast a triumph.\\nThe earth never saw a more perfect morn-\\ning than the following. That was to be our\\nPaestum day. Our host, a number of coun-\\ntrymen and countrywomen, even the station\\nporter who carried our lunch basket to a car-\\nriage on the train which was to take us part of\\nthe way one and all exclaimed How for-\\ntunate you are You could not have a more\\nsplendid day to see the ruins.* Fourteen miles\\nby rail and then a carriage again for a drive\\nof two and a half hours. The sea was\\nradiantly beautitui,** a wide expanse of flash-\\ning wavelets. Leaving it, the route crossed", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "242 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nmarshy plains^ occasionally dotted with small\\nherds of buffaloes and other cattle* The moun-\\ntains kept along with us, gradually diminishing\\nin height until they sank into the low coast*\\nAfter awhile the first glimpse of the temples*\\nThat was a sensation It is said of these tem-\\nples that they were built in the ancient Greek\\nstyle, and are, with the exception of those at\\nAthens, the finest existing monuments of the\\nkind* The temple of Neptune is the largest\\nand most beautiful of the three* Its magnitude,\\nmassiveness and grandeur, added to the purpose\\nfor which it was erected ^the worship of a\\ndeity make it the most imposing ruin I have\\nseen. This last makes the wide differenee be-\\ntween it and the Coliseum, for which, had it\\nthat consecration, there would be no words* I\\nwandered round, through it, gathered wild\\nacanthus from crevices in its columns and clefts\\nin its floor gazed at the near sea at one end,\\npassing an arm round one of its mighty sym-\\nmetrical columns, not encircling it, you may be\\nsure, as the diameter is seven and a half feet\\nfollowed the slow grazing of sheep on those\\nonce-sacred grounds sat down on the broken\\nand half-buried steps inside, and looked up at", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "ROME. 243\\nthe intense blue of Italy s noon-day sky; went\\nto.different points around it to get every aspect of\\n**That noble wreck of rtiinous perfection,**\\nand felt it impossible to sufficiently admire it.\\nThe Basilica near by is also of great magnitude^\\nbut less and not so majestic in its proportions.\\nThe third is the Temple of Ceres. It is com-\\nparatively small, but full of simple majesty. As\\nI looked at these wonderful ruins, what most\\nstrangely moved me was an appreciation of the\\npower and glory of man, and the recognition of\\nwhat an element worship has been in the history\\nof our race.\\nAnother was my Sorrento day, which\\nmeant one of those ideal drives called *Cor-\\nnichean, because of the road s projecting like a\\ncornice from the headlands and precipitous hill-\\nsides. In some places, the road is cut out of the\\nsolid rock; in others, it pierces it, forming beau-\\ntiful arches, but always keeping the sea in view.\\nThis kept also Ischia, Capri and Vesuvius before\\nthe charmed gaze. No other point commands\\nsuch fine and complete outlines of Vesuvius its\\nperfect gradual upward sweep and swell from\\nthe water s edge to its cone, with the ever-rising\\ncolumn of smoke. Part of this drive takes its", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "244 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nway through orange and olive groves and mul-\\nberry trees, figs, pomegranates and aloes, min-\\ngled in delicious suggestiveness. The town\\nitself is small, and situated amid these delightful\\ngroves, rather orchards, on rocks rising abruptly\\nfrom the sea, with deep ravines on the other\\nside. It was the birthplace of Tasso and it is\\nsaid, the house in which he was born and the\\nrock on which it stood have been swallowed up\\nby the sea, and that the ruins are still visible\\nbeneath its clear blue waters. Nearly the entire\\nsea-front is occupied by hotels, situated in gar-\\ndens, with steps descending to the sea; and\\nbathing establishments commanding magnificent\\nviews. We visited its shops, celebrated for their\\ninlaid and carved wooden work and silks.\\nMy second trial of Naples was as unsatis-\\nfactory as the first. It rained in torrents, and\\nthen I ^^gave up in despair.^* The trip from\\nNaples back to Rome almost made me forget\\nmy grievance. It was full of historic interest\\nand association. We passed ancient Capua,^\\nwhere Spartacus led in the war of the gladiators.\\nJust this side of it is a district so productive it\\nyields two crops of grain and one of hay in the\\nsame season. We had a splendid view of the\\ncelebrated monastery of Monte Casino^ situated", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "ROME. 245\\non the top of a lofty hill. It is founded on the\\nsite of an ancient temple of Apollo, to which\\nDante alludes in his ^^Paradiso/ Thomas\\nAquinas was educated there. Varro^s villa was\\nnear, and it is to one of its abbots that the world\\nis indebted for the preservation of his works. Its\\nlibrary is celebrated for its manuscripts, and\\nsome of them suggested to Dante his great\\nworks. In sight was Aquino, the birthplace of\\nboth Thomas Aquinas and Juvenal.\\nRome. Here, in the Eternal City.** Every\\nday is one to be chronicled. The day after I\\ncame was Palm Sunday. I went to St. Peter s\\nto see both it and the ceremonies of the distribu-\\ntion of consecrated palms. I will not describe\\nSt. Peter s. Had I not already seen Westmin-\\nster Abbey, St. PauFs and all the other most\\ncelebrated English cathedrals, no doubt the im-\\npression would have been overwhelming. The\\nceremonies were very unimposing; the music\\nwas not extraordinary; high mass was per-\\nformed in one of the chapels, which dwarfed it\\nto a very commonplace performance; and the\\ndistribution of palms was done by children, poor,\\nforlom-Iooking friars and licensed peddlers, the\\nconsecration having been previously done by\\none of the cardinals.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "246 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nWhile the services were being performed in\\nthe chapel, people were walking and rambling\\nall over the rest of the vast temple, and unless\\nquite close to it, might have been quite unaware\\nthat anything was going on within* As no seats\\nwere provided, I went out and joined the ram-\\nblers. Presently I came upon the bronze statue\\nof St. Peter, the toes of which are being worn\\naway by the kisses of the devout. I found a\\nseat and sat down to look on. Every class and\\ngrade was represented, from prince and princess\\nto pauper and villain, the former using their\\ndainty perfumed handkerchiefs to wipe a spot\\nbefore touching their lips to it the latter, their\\nragged and tainted sleeves. One young priest\\nwiped the side of the foot and kissed it, instead\\nof the much-imposed-upon toes.\\nTo the end of Holy Week,* I devoted\\nmyself to seeing its various services. Each\\nchurch has its special services. In that of St.\\nApoUonari, the washing and kissing the feet of\\nthe disciples is done by a cardinal. I waited\\nthrough a prolonged service of nearly four hours\\nto witness it. There were thirteen youthful\\npriests seated in a row on a bench raised two\\nsteps above the floor for the greater convenience\\nof the rather too fat father. Each in succession", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "ROME, 247\\nthrust out a bare foot as he knelt, then washed,\\nwiped, and, so far as I could see, gave an honest\\nkiss. There was a crimson satin cushion for\\nhim to kneel on, which, however, the attending\\npriests forgot to move along for him, so he had\\nto use the bare floor. I was suspicious enough\\nto think the omission was intentional* AH his\\ngorgeous vestments were removed while he was\\ndoing this, and he looked a very plain, humble\\ncreature indeed.\\nIn another was high mass and the showing\\nof part of the cross to which Christ was\\nbound to be scourged. This church is opened\\nbut the once in the year, and then only to\\nladies. No man can enter under pain of ex-\\ncommunication. The other part of the cross is\\nin Jerusalem. I urged a very agreeable elderly\\nEnglish lady to go to see it. For reply, she\\nlooked at me with a twinkle in her shrewd\\neyes, and said I am not going to spend my\\ntime in any such tomfoolery as that.* What\\na homelike sound her unvarnished English\\nhad!\\nIn yet another there was a grand ceremony\\nof showing the heads of St. Peter and St.\\nPaul 2L ghastly spectacle at best. But the\\nglory has departed from Catholicism in Rome.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "248 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\n*HoIy Week^* is a very tame period now-a-\\ndays. One could be here and not hear of it.\\nIndeed^ it was with great difficulty that we could\\nget any accurate information of its program. In\\nonly one church was there a jam. The pope\\nnever shows himself; his seclusion is said to be\\nabsolute. All of the grandest spectacles and\\nceremonies are omitted, so **HoIy Week*^ is\\nrapidly ceasing to be an attraction.\\nWe had a delightful drive on the Via\\nAppia, that old Roman road, built three hun-\\ndred and twelve years before Christ, that even\\nto-day, is called the queen of roads.** This is\\nthe finest of the near excursions in the Cam-\\npagna, the ruins of the aquaducts, mountains\\nand villages, while the remains of ancient\\ntombs on each side of the road are a unique and\\nsingularly fascinating feature. We took it in to\\nvisit the catacombs of St. Callistus the tomb of\\nCaecilliaMetella the grotto and grove of Egeria.\\nStopping at the Catacombs, we were provided\\nwith wax tapers and guides and plunged down\\na precipitous stairway, and in a moment would\\nhave been plunged in Plutonian darkness but\\nfor these little lights that only served **to make\\ndarkness more visible.** Next came threading\\nour way through narrow, tortuous passages^", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "ROME, 249\\nsingle file, coming occasionally to tombs of\\nsome extent, containing the bodies of popes,\\nsaints and other people/* In several of these\\nwere paintings, the subjects of which were still\\nquite easily made out. Some of the decorative\\ninscriptions date as far back as the fourth cen-\\ntury, and the frescoes to the seventh and eighth.\\nIn one chamber are two sarcophagi still con-\\ntaining the skeletons of the deceased, which are\\nseen through a glass cover one looking like a\\nmummy, the other very much crumbled. The\\nguide hurried us, so the visit was rather con-\\nfusing, and I came out. The tomb of Caecillia\\nMetella was a fascination to me I was scarcely\\nprepared for, notwithstanding my remembrance\\nof Childe Harold*s famous description. To\\nreach the Grotto of Egeria, we had to take a\\nwalk through some fields, and descend a hill\\ninto a ravine through which a little brook, the\\nAlmo, flows in an artificial channel. The\\nGrotto is not large, but very beautiful, draped\\nwith ivy over the entire arch of the opening.\\nOn the wall facing the entrance is a mutilated\\nstatue. The fountain bursts from the wall to\\nthe right of it about four or five feet from\\nthe floor. A peasant was filling his vessels\\nfrom it and he gave us a drink. It was clear.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "250 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ncool and of pleasant flavor. Thence a f^irther\\nwalk along the brook and the ascent of not a\\nvery high hill, led to a grove of thick and strik-\\ning ilex trees. They are of great size and ever-\\ngreen. I went under every tree to be sure\\nI did not miss that at whose roots Numa\\nlearned his lessons of wisdom.\\nEgefia, sweet creation,\\nWhatsoever thy birth,\\nThou wert a beautiful thought and softly bodied forth.**\\nL. G. C.\\nRome, April 4, J883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "ROME.\\nOU see you did right about the address^\\nsending the letter to care of Paris banker.\\nI have it, and it came on time/ good time, not\\nloitering by the way or flying off at a tangent.\\nThe one point I object to is the soft rebuke to\\nme for not having specified an address. I had\\ngiven you all that I expected to. It is too much\\nof a risk to change my address with the changes\\nof place of such a vagrant. Now^ stick to H.\\nCo., etc., till I write you to do otherwise.\\nYou will be a sharp, yes, pre-destinated fault-\\nfinder if you can hook a grumble on that. I\\ndefy you. Thanks for your appreciation of the\\nletter I am sure I did not mean anything so\\nextraordinary. You say so many pleasant\\nthings, I cannot ignore them, as is my wont. I\\nhope you are like Lady Geraldine, who\\nSaid^uch good things natural.\\nAs if she always thought them.**\\nAnyhow, it is wonderfully exhilarating to\\n(250", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "252 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nfeel I have put out the Bermuda burner. Her\\nscintillations were vastly oppressive.\\nI have recently been reveling in Guercino^s\\nfresco of Aurora, widely different from Guidons\\nfamous one, but I think I like it quite as much.\\nAurora herself is the central figure, a lovely,\\nradiant creature embodying all the glimmer, glow\\nand glamor of the dawn, seated in her car drawn\\nby two splendid steeds, mottled with the dusk they\\nwere scattering and the light they were herald-\\ning. She was dropping flowers as she sped\\nonward; a lovely cherub hovered in the air\\nbefore stretching chaplets of exquisite flowers\\ntoward her; another, nestling in the cloudy\\nfolds of her drapery behind, looked over the\\nedge of the car right into my eyes with his that\\nseemed just as living. Do not tell on me but\\nI make rosebuds of my lips at him every time\\nwe catch each other^s eyes, and he seems to en-\\njoy the pantomine. Just in front of the horses^\\nheads, the earliest hours, bewitching young\\nmaidens, are putting out the stars, each with ex-\\ntended forefinger and^thumb, flashing lightly up\\nto the pretty sparks. It looks the most fas-\\ncinating task to do.* You cannot help feeling\\na quiver in your own fingers to try it. Away\\nahead of all a bat is flying from the coming", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "ROME. 253\\nlight. You think in a flash of that beautiful\\nsong:\\nCome into the garden, Maud,\\nThe black bat, Night, is fled.\\nAnd now the quiver in my finger is gone\\nI have put out that transcendant Star that\\nmade a vexed Bermoothes of ine I\\nAnd I hope Guercina^s manes will take no\\noffense at this association of ideas I\\nAh this imperial Rome ^this unapproach-\\nable queen of the earth\u00e2\u0080\u0094 every day I am more\\nand more overcome by *the toils of her beauty\\nand enchantments. The magic of yesterday is\\nlost in that of to-day; and for that of to-morrow\\nI shall be dumb, having no words to express\\nit. I wonder how anyone can ever get free\\nfrom her wonderful fetters forged of everything\\nthat adds charm to life. From the deep blue of\\nits sky^the crystalline dazzle of its atmosphere,\\nthe unutterable fusion of all the hues of all the\\nearth/* and the varied outline of hill and vale\\nand mount and wide-spread campagna all this,\\njust the mere outside, the physical Rome, to her\\ntreasures of myths, history, etc., everything you\\nknow, why attempt to enumerate She is in\\neverything Mistress of the World. I, for\\none, am her willingest, lealest, lovingest sub-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "254 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nject or slave, as you will. It seems to me at\\ntimes as if of all I have ever known there is\\nnothing very worthy that has not some associ-\\nations with her. Living within her walls\\nbrings out all that was written long ago on the\\nmemory, but grown from the lapse of time and\\nthe swift succession of experiences into an in-\\nvisible writing/* as it were. Yes, brings it out\\njust as heat will bring that out. At every turn\\nthere is a great name, or some great monument\\nof the mighty dead, and as you pause to look\\nyou ponder and remember what made the\\nname great, who built the great monument,\\nwho indeed were the mighty dead Sometimes\\nyou know so much it is a kind of intoxicating\\njoy. Oh! yes; many times most times of\\ncourse, you know so little.\\nDo not think of being afraid or ashamed of\\nadmitting that. And then such a hunger and\\nthirst as takes possession of you for knowledge,\\nmore knowledge, and yet more and more. The\\nhunger and thirst of one perishing in the desert\\ncan but faintly shadow this forth. You think\\nof that wonder-story of Eve, and the condemna-\\ntion of her that has been a birth-right and\\ngrown with your orthodox growth, insensibly\\nsoftens into sympathy. Presently you will find", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "ROME. 255\\nyourself admitting you too might have yes,\\nwould have eaten that apple For it meant\\nknowledge, more knowledge I I am\\nshocking you. Well, come thou also, and see\\nif it be possible not to rave\\nAre you in the mood for a tramp Come,\\nlet s be off. There is an old church 5, OnofriOf\\non the slope of the Janiculus we ought to see.\\nIt is off to the west, no great distance from St.\\nPeter s. The Salita. (or ascent) is steep. It is\\na warm, relaxing day do not go too fast you\\nwill get into a perspiration if you do, and then\\nyou will have to take care of a breeze or a\\ndraught, and maybe catch cold, after all. Best\\nnot hurry. What is there up there, anyhow\\nWhy ever so many things you would not\\nmiss for anything. The quaintest old struc-\\nture dating from t439 ahead of America and\\nbuilt in honor of Honophrius, whose story is\\ndisgusting to me; but let that go. Here is\\nwhat I like better. Tasso lived there I do not\\nknow how long and died there. The whole\\nplace is far more full of, and fragrant with, his\\nmemory than that of the saint. The chapel in\\nwhich he is buried has an immense affair in the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "256 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nway of a monument. It is not considered a\\nwork of high art/ so v/e shall not linger.\\nHere in a chapel beside his is the tomb of\\nMezzofanti, the linguist; a simple slab in the\\nfloor, with the name and dates. I like it. Some-\\nhow I am in such a fever to go on. I do not\\ncare much for the pictures, though some have\\ngreat names. Here ^through this corridor. It\\nleads to the *ceIP which Tasso occupied and\\nin which he died. The custodian opens the\\ndoor. I step in first, and involuntarily step\\nback. Facing me is a full-length fresco portrait\\nof the poet on the wall, so life-like, for the mo-\\nment the illusion is complete. In the center of\\nthe room is his bust. It was taken from the\\ncast of his face in death; it is in a glass case.\\nOn the wall behind is another glass case, in\\nwhich is an autograph letter, much tattered and\\ntorn and yellow with age. There are also his\\ngloves, belt, etc. Ranged against the wall and\\nprotected by a railing are some large, square,\\nleather-covered chairs, in frames of oak or wal-\\nnut, with gold-gilt ornamentation. On another\\nside, also in a large glass cabinet, is the coffin in\\nwhich he was first interred. The cell itself\\nis a good-sized room, with three windows, two\\ncommanding fine, extensive views. There is a", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "ROME. 257\\ngarden attached, with a riven oak, the remains\\nof that under which Tasso used to sit. We\\nmust go and sit there too. The walk lies be-\\ntween large beds of growing vegetables. You\\nsee ahead your goal a sharp little rise, from the\\nside of which, half-way up, leans out remains of\\nthe tree. On one side is an old wall, rather a\\nfragment; on the other, some steep, high steps,\\nup which you know you will have to toil for\\nthe view.** Almost in a breath you are doing\\nit, and ugh I at every step a swarm of glancing\\nlizards! I cry: **Look out for the lizards!**\\nA lady ahead of me, already at the top, seated\\non a part of the wall, says coolly, if encourag-\\ningly: You know they are harmless. Why\\nare you afraid I protest I am not afraid\\nbut a lady carried one home with her yesterday\\nin the folds of her sidrts, and it was there ever\\nso long, I know. I do n*t wish the experience\\nof a lizard for a vade mecum.** So I gather my\\nskirts close and above my boot-tops, and do not\\nmisis the view indeed; but neither do I those\\nlegions in their brilliant uniform of green spotted\\nwith gold. And the view St. Peter*s on the\\nleft, still farther west; the city to the east, with\\nits innumerable domes and spires and far be-\\nyond, the beautiful mountains, some of their", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "258 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\ntops lost in the blue mist; and overhead, the\\nbroad arms of the oak, with their budding\\nsprays. The warm air makes you feel a curious\\nlanguor. You too sit down, feeling as if you\\nwere swooning into that noontide. Only a\\nmoment, though those lizards!\\nIt is time to go. You make the circuit of\\nthe gnarled roots try to break off a bit of the\\nriven edges, to find them as hard as adamant\\nlook up and sigh to find the leaves quite beyond\\nreach then turn away for good and all. After\\na step or so, you find you are still clutching at\\nyour skirts I And as you reach the walk again,\\nthe other lady looks back and says meekly and\\ndeprecatingly, ^^I feel as if I had a thousand\\nlizards on me.^^ One can forgive the answer-\\ning peal of laughter it is meriment only, not\\ntriumph. Then both gave wings to their feet\\nCan you keep up I lay a wager you think\\nyou can 1\\nThen another pro^. Do you not want\\nto see that statue of Pompey, at whose base\\nGreat Caesar fell I have thought of it and\\nof Great Caesar^ many times. Indeed, it is\\none of the first thoughts when one sees the\\nforttm. The statue is in the Palazzo Spada is\\nin an immense ante-room. It needs to be, so", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "a\\no\\n-S\\n3\\nO", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "ROME. 259\\ncolossal is the statue. The workmanship is\\nnot considered very fine, but a strong interest\\nmust always attach to it on account of the as-\\nsociation. The Palazzo is well situated, but it\\nis near the Jew quarter called the Ghetto, and\\nwhich is one of the characteristic sights. The\\nstreet is narrow and tortuous, winding between\\nhouses six and seven stories high. The dwellers\\nlive literally out-doors, for even if inside the\\nhouse, it is all wide open. The women are\\nsitting, plying their various avocations, all seem-\\ning to be made up in some way of old, filthy\\nclothes. The men are roving about just as\\nbusily. The children are at play so thick, there\\nis some discretion required to enable one to\\nthread his way without stepping on them. All\\nare unkempt, unwashed, unattractive. Both\\nsmells and looks are revolting. Curiosity is\\nsoon satisfied. We hurry. Just ahead of us is\\nthe house of Rienzi, and near by a pretty little\\nruined temple called that of Vesta these are on\\nthe bank of the Tiber, and just at the foot, as\\nit were, of the Palatine. Further on is the\\nProtestant cemetery, where are buried Keats\\nand the heart of Shelley. I have been to both.\\nFresh flowers were lying on the slab over the\\nlatter, while the grave of Keats was a mass of", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "260 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nsweet violets. There is a neat hedge around it,\\nand everything betokens kindly and constant\\ncare. Poor fellow His name is not written\\nin water. Oh but I must break off. There\\nis no end to all I wish I could tell you. I sym-\\npathize with you in the loss of that lovely\\nwoman, Mrs. D Such a frail, tender life;\\nthe wonder is it has lasted so long. I had\\nheard something of what you mention. Believe\\nIt is better to have loved and lost\\nThan never to have loved at all.\\nYes, the added verse is an immortality.\\nMay I indeed be there to hear, and all our\\nbeautiful beloved who have gone before. You\\ndid not mention our dear one. Miss B\\nDo you know anything about her I have had\\nno letter since I wrote to you, but so many of\\nmy letters do not reach me, I attach no blame\\nto her, only I wish so much to hear. And will\\nyou make the race for governor H so, I will\\nput up special prayers for your election. Then\\nif you are elected, you will invite us two to visit\\nyou in that castle made without hands. Won*t\\nyou, please. Thanking you for all your kindly\\nexpressions and injunctions.\\nL. G. C\\nRome, April 24, 1883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "ROME,\\n^N Rome still, but this is my last week.\\nWere I to write many books, I could not\\nget in the half of these wonder days in this\\nqueen city of the world. Yes, crowned so long\\nago, she still wears her royal diadem, and will\\nwear it even as the old lines have it\\nWhile Rome stands, the world stands I\\nI have made the rounds of the churches,\\nthat of the galleries and museums, that of the\\nvillas and palaces, and finally that of the\\nshops. Take notice, that of the studios, is\\nomitted not because it was not made, but be-\\ncause it was confined to four. Such a four^\\nthough! One can hardly realize any were\\nleft out. Be sure they will come in for\\nample mention. Will it seem sacrilegious\\nto admit several hours of one afternoon were\\ndevoted to the Lateran, and the rest to\\nwatching the queen and lesser mortals com-\\ning home from the races Life is a very mixed\\nsort of affair here Motley^s the wear, in-\\n(26 J)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "262 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS\u00c2\u00bb\\nindeed, and there s nothing to be done but Be-\\ning in Rome to do as Romans do/* The only-\\nsaving clause is I did not hurry through the\\nchurch because of the carnival ahead.\\nI began with the Piazza, di San Giovanni\\nand its great obelisk the largest in existence/\\nerected some fifteen hundred years ago by an\\nEgyptian king in front of the Temple of the Sun,\\nat Thebes. I felt that it had strayed far away\\nfrom its native heath/ This is one of eleven\\nobelisks brought from far eastern climes to\\ngrace this imperial city. The conqueror has a\\nright to his spoils, I suppose, or this might be\\ncalled vandalism* In the Baptistery, I saw the\\nfont of green basalt in which tradition says\\nConstantine was baptized; and in its several\\nchapels, Mosaic frescoes dating as far back as\\nthe Fifth century. They were more curious\\nthan beautiful, the figures representing Christ,\\napostles and saints, being decidedly of a carica-\\nture order. But one flowers and birds on a\\ngold ground, and another golden arabesques\\non a blue ground were more successful, in-\\ndeed beyond criticism. I lingered long at the\\nfoot of Santa Scala, **that flight of twenty-\\neight marble steps from the palace of Pilate at\\nJerusalem, which Christ is said to have ascended", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "ROME. 263\\nonce/* and which are now set aside for the de-\\nvout to ascend on their knees only. Many\\nwere doing it as I watched men, women and\\nchildren; old and young; rich and poor* To\\nthe looker-on it would seem rather an acrobatic\\nfeat, than an act of devotion.\\nAt five o clock, we took our station on the\\nwayside, one of a fam of carriages to wait\\nfor the coming of the royal cortege I In the\\nintervals of waiting, I amused myself pointing\\nout the coroneted equipages; they clustered\\naround, their occupants apparently quite as\\neager as we to see the spectacle. Presently\\nthe chatter was hushed; eye-glasses of all\\nkinds were adjusted everybody s gaze was on\\nthe Porta San Giovanni a flash of scarlet shot\\nthrough its arch; the jockey who always pre-\\ncedes the queen s carriage, itself with its four\\nsteeds, most richly caparisoned the coachman\\nand two footmen in the brilliant scarlet uniform\\nof the queen; and inside, the beautiful, gracious,\\nhappy-looking Marguerite, a queen indeed, if\\nlooks and bearing count! She bowed so\\nqueenly, and smiled so womanly, right and\\nleft, I no longer wonder that her subjects wor-\\nship her. A number of gorgeous equipages", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "264 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nfollowed the pageant swept on^ and the chill\\ndusk hurried us home.\\nAnother church was the qaint old building\\nof St. Onofrio^ on the Janiculus. It was reared\\nto commemorate the piety of that saint, shown\\nby a life of sixty years* hermitage in the desert,\\nreducing himself to the level of the brute creation.\\nI confess my pilgrimage to his shrine was not\\nfrom sympathy with any such idea of piety.\\nNor has it much in the way of art. Three\\nfrescoes by Domenichino, and one fresco, faded\\nand injured by retouching, by Leonardo da Vinci,\\nare all worth speaking of. But Tasso is buried\\nthere, and the cell he occupied is shown, full of\\nsouvenirs of him. It is a large room, with three\\nwindows, and commands some fine views. The\\nsouvenirs are a fresco portrait of him, life-size\\nand most startlingly life-like; a bust in wax,\\nautograph letters, chairs, etc. There is a gar-\\nden attached, in which is an oak under which\\nhe used to sit. The view from that coigne de\\nvantage** is lovely. I seated myself where he\\nmight have sat to enjoy it. But you have read\\nabout the pretty, glancing, green and gold lizards\\nof Italy Well, it seemed to me there was one\\nat least to every blade of grass, to every twig,\\nwhere anything could glide or dangle. A lady", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "ROME, 26S\\nhad carried one home with her the day before\\nin the folds of her dress. I was not very ambi-\\ntious to follow her example, so, perhaps very\\ningloriously, I decamped without delay.\\nThere is a set of churches, three in number,\\ncalled The Three Churches of the Aventine/\\nfrom their being situated on that hill. Each has\\nsomething of special interest, but I shall tell of\\nonly one, that of St. Sabrina. It contains Sas-\\nsoferrato^s masterpiece, the Madonna of the\\nRosary,^* a really beautiful and interesting pic-\\nture of this inexhaustible subject. The Madonna\\nis giving a rosary to St. Dominicus, and the\\nChrist-child another to St. Catherine; the latter\\nwith a childlike delight and benevolence in the\\ngivmgf most admirably rendered. On the pillar\\nin the nave is a good-sized black bowlder, with\\nthe legend attached that it was hurled hj tlie\\ndevil at St. Dominicus when at prayer; such\\nwas his fury at this pious act. The flagstone\\non which the saint was kneeling was also\\nshown. It has been removed from the floor\\nand built into the wall. There is an orange\\ntree in the garden, still vigorous and beautiful,\\nplanted by St. Dominicus. The good brothers\\nmake crosses and rosaries of its wood and sell\\nthem, thus making an honest penny/* We", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "266 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nbought some and took them to the pope to be\\nconsecrated\\nThis prowling about old churches, hunting\\nup celebrated pictures, relics, legends, etc., comes\\nto be a great fascination. As they are counted\\nby hundreds, one can always have a place to go.\\nThe trouble is to make a selection. And it is\\njust as perplexing which to tell you about.\\nThere is one more, though, I do not like to\\nleave out. It is small and not at all striking\\nstands beside the great Doria palace on the\\nCorso, and right in the way, but comparatively\\nfew enter it. The name is St. Maria in Via\\nLata, and it is the church in which St. Paul and\\nSt. Luke taught.\\nThere are really two churches, one entered\\nJrom the street and the other beneath it, reached\\nby descending a flight of steps. The latter is\\nthe one where the apostles preached, and very\\nsmall and humble and dark the custodian car-\\nried lighted tapers to insure our seeing. There\\nwere some faded frescoes on the walls, a well,\\nthe water of which burst forth miraculously for\\nthe baptism of converts under their preaching\\nand there is a fragment of the ancient Servian\\nwall in one end that is very curious, with its\\nhuge blocks of stone arranged both upright and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "ROME, 2^1\\nhorizontally. In the upper church is preserved\\nthat remarkable picture of the head of Christ\\nbegun by St. Luke and finished by an angel/*\\nIt is kept closely shut up in a cabinet over the\\nalter, but a silver lira won an inspection. Faded,\\ndingy, crude, all that can be said is that neither\\nof the accredited artists could have worked\\nfrom especial training or inspiration! From\\nchurches to studios a natural transition. What\\ngalleries the former have been, and are, for the\\nlatter.\\nStrolling through the Via Margutta the\\nartistes quarter** a large building arrested at-\\ntention. On inquiring, we found, among many\\nother studios in it, those of our Rodgers and\\nIves. Applying quite unceremoniously for ad-\\nmittance to the first, was accorded at once, and\\nthe son of Mr. Rodgers advanced and received\\nus most courteously, and conducted us through\\nseveral rooms, full of the completed works of\\nhis father, and a number of work-rooms full of\\nbusy workmen. Among the many admirable\\nfinished works, four particularly interested us\\nThe Lost Pleiad,** Ruth,** Somnambulist\\nand The Blind Girl of Pompeii.** Never was\\nthe groping movement peculiar to the blind so\\ntouchingly rendered as in that slight, girlish", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "268 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nfigure. She is pressing forward against a\\nstrong wind, which is shown by the way her\\nhair and skirts are blown backward, grasping\\nher staff, and feeling her way equally, as it\\nwere, with it, and the sightless orbs directed so\\nintently before her. What a curious mastery\\nof the **coId, insensate marble that can make\\nthe heart ache so I\\nWe were equally unceremonious and for-\\ntunate in our reception at the studio of Mr.\\nIves. He was just going out, but turned at\\nonce, and accompanied us with the utmost\\nkindness and graciousness through his rooms.\\nThere, too, were many well-filled, and others\\nwhere the workmen s chisels were busy. It\\nwas interesting to pause and watch the tiny\\nchips and threads of marble dust as made under\\ntheir skillful touches, and mark the delicate\\nfinish given thereby to lip and brow, the more\\ntender curve to the dainty shoulder, the more\\ngraceful sweep to the trailing drapery. I gazed\\nlongest on a young Bacchus, a drooping\\nAriadne, that half elf, half human Undine,\\nand that nymph of wood, water and wisdom,\\n^Egeria. The last, especially, drew me to it\\nagain and again. It is a sitting statue inclin-\\ning somewhat forward, gazing earnestly at the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "ROME. l(i^\\nright foot extending before it, and from the toes\\nof which streams of water are gushing. The\\nleft foot is drawn back and is resting on the tip\\nof the toes. There is little drapery, but the little\\nis exquisitely wrought. The features are of\\nethereal beauty; the hair is arranged in a sim-\\nple Grecian knot. She is sitting on a stump\\nentwined with ivy; around its roots the wild\\nacanthus spreads its beautiful leaves. The\\nlovely creature! I think it will haunt me\\nforever.\\nThe third studio was that of an Italian\\nartist. Besides his pictures, the rooms were\\nadorned with tapestries, rugs and bric-a-brac.\\nThere were some most ingenious exhibitions of\\ntaste. In one room the light fell on crayons on\\nglass, most attractive pictures. Passing to\\nanother room behind this, the light shone through\\nthese, converting them into exquisite trans-\\nparencies. It was a desire to light what would\\nhave been otherwise a dark room, without\\nmarring the walls of the others by introducing\\nwindows. There were some portraits on his\\nwalls, wonderful as paintings, and carrying con-\\nviction of their faithfulness as likenesses. One\\nwas a queenly woman, with that splendid\\ntexture of flesh so often described by the words.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "270 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\n*you can almost see the bones through it/^\\nbecause of its transparency, features clean cut\\nas a cameo/* a warm fine glow on the cheek;\\nelsewhere that pinkish pearl hue of youth and\\nhealth; and heavy masses and braids of the\\nrichest golden hair, with the very glint of\\nthe burnished metal on it* I felt like plucking\\nout a strand or two that they might never be\\nturned to silver, and thinking of Aurora Leigh,\\nkept asking myself how many ingots went to\\nmake that dazzling sheen So realistic was\\nthis vision of beauty,** one could easily believe it\\nwould turn and answer, did you speak to it*\\nIt was, however, the last studio of the four\\nwhere I went oftenest and lingered longest, and\\nalways with increasing pleasure that of\\nDwight Benton, formerly of Cincinnati, and\\nwho favors the Commercial now and then\\nwith a delightful letter* Doubtless you have\\nread them. His studio consists of two spacious\\nrooms, most admirably lighted and tastefully\\nfitted up. It is a gallery in itself, with its walls\\ncovered with studies,** and its many easels\\nfilled with wonder-works of his never idle\\nbrush Of late years he paints landscapes ex-\\nclusively, and it may be added con amore/*\\nSuch enthusiasm is bound to tell so there are", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "ROME. 271\\nscenes from Capri that do not seem to belong to\\ncanvass at all that strip of beach is there to\\nstroll on those cliffs you will climb sooner or\\nlater; the chickens aroost in the little boat\\ndrawn up in the shadow of a comer of that\\nquaint old house, will have to fly for it by and\\nby, when you will want it for a sail in a few\\nmoments you are going up the steps to follow\\nthat tall, stately-looking peasant woman just dis-\\nappearing in that old house, for you are eager to\\nexplore it. You look further On another easel\\nis a stretch of the Campagna, seen beyond and\\nthrough some near ruins. There are patches of\\nsunlight on the grass, not paint, but the warm,\\nintangible sunbeams that drop from the sky to\\nthe earth that wonderful Campagna It rolls\\naway in shifting arabesques and mosaics of\\nall the hues\\nThat in the colors of the rainbow live\\nAnd play in the plighted clouds/\\ntill afar off it strikes that line of mountains,\\nwith their top lost in great masses of tossing,\\nseething storm-clouds, or veiled in depth after\\ndepth of bluest mist. It seems as if he had\\nwrenched the reality itself from the out-door\\nworld, and flung it on the canvass. The gaze", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "272 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwanders from one easel to another with long\\npauses at each. How I wish I could do them\\nthe faintest justice with any words of mine. I\\ncan give the subjects and the features, but those\\nmiracles of atmospheric effects wrought ap-\\nparently with as little effort by this artistes\\nbrush as if by enchantment it is those that\\nare unutterable, indescribable, and must be seen\\nby one^s own eyes. I consider myself most\\nfortunate in having secured two of his smaller\\ncanvasses to be a possession forever/ The\\nlarger is a Capri scene of coast and cliff; the\\nwhite-crested waves are rolling in gently, and\\nbreaking upon the former; the ruins of the\\npalace of Tiberius crown the latter. It is a\\npicture of striking individuality and specially\\ncharacteristic of this foreign world. The other\\nis a subject of pathetic interest, which he calls\\nShelley^s grave/ It represents the coast\\nnear Spezzia, where the body of the poet was\\nwashed ashore, found and interred for a time.\\nA simple cross marks the grave. A somber\\nsky, the low coast, a little strip of beach, the\\ngrass and weeds and sedgy growth peculiar to\\nsuch a spot, with a rude cross, that is all. But\\nwhat a story it tells So anxious am I that\\nothers may have an opportunity to see and ap-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "ROME. 273\\npreciate this home artist, I shall make a special\\npoint with my old friends of the book-store of\\nThe Robert Clarke Company, Cincinnati, of\\nhaving these placed in their windows as soon\\nas they reach the United States. One so gfifted\\nin his profession, and of such high worth in\\nevery phase of character as Mr. Benton, should\\nhave most ample recognition from his fellow-\\ncountrymen.\\nL. G. C.\\nRome, May 2, 1883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "MAIORI.\\nO not trouble to tell me I know I have\\nbeen delinquent. But then that is not\\none of my too many and too-tedious-to-make-\\nmention of feelings/ So the one time can be\\nblinked at. Especially if you remember the\\nscripture injunction. K you are like me you\\nnever do unless you want to.\\nOf course your letter came and I had my\\nhabitual good intentions/ but well, to be hon-\\nest, I am sure I do not know what became of\\nthem. I only realize that the days **shod with\\nsilver speech/* and muzzled with golden speech-\\nlessness, have slipped away and given no warn-\\ning, till I should be afraid to try to count them.\\nLet them go, and be magnanimous enough to\\nbear no malice. That comes so easy to me I\\ncan recommend it without any tinges of that in-\\nward monitor yclept conscience. It would be\\nthe J 3th labor of Hercules to attempt to fill up\\nthis interval. My brain reels at the mere men-\\ntion. But I will just give you a mosaic of\\nrandom tiles. You will like it just as well.\\n(274)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "MAIORI. 275\\nIn any case you would feel called on to groan\\ncritically and perhaps cry aloud: The old\\nflippancy! What a butterfly she is/ You\\nknow I do not mind.\\nOne of the party, the lord of creation/\\nyou may be sure, had the fever at Rome, to his\\nsupreme disgust, not the Roman, but typhoid.\\nHe was sick two months. This, of course, was\\na cloud. But he is a darling, and just to get\\nhim well again was our supreme anxiety. As\\nsoon as he was well enough to travel without\\nrisk, he was ordered here to escape Roman\\nlassitude and be built up.* Last Monday we\\nstarted, coming by easy stages. Naples was\\nour first resting-place. We remained till Satur-\\nday. By that date the invalid through much\\neating and drinking shed even the role of a con-\\nvalescent, and Richard is himself again, was\\nasserted in every look and act. But we have\\ncome on here all the same. I wish you could\\nspend just one day if no more with us. Such a\\ndream-place as it is Words can never picture\\nit to you, but the cousins in chorus, declared I\\nmust write and tell you all about it. As if I\\ncould Why you? They did not say. I did\\nnot ask. I suppose because they are ready to\\nhear another of your letters read. You see", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "276 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nthey have not such a funny, audacious cor-\\nrespondent as you on their list*\\nBut to this castle in Spain/* this Palace\\nBeautiful/* this stately pleasure dome/* this\\nDream Perch/* this Hotel Torre di Mezzaca-\\npo/* on the blue Meditterranean*s** loveliest in-\\nlet, the Gulf of Salerno, Oh, dear How to put\\nit into words It is an ancient castle, built on\\nand out of, and into, a lofty cliff, hanging right\\nover the water. I could cast my lines into its\\nclear depths and angle to no end of capture, if\\nthey were long enough. They would have\\nto measure 90 meters (300 feet) though to touch\\nwater. Who would help me land my whales\\nA Cornichean road, the ideal highway of cre-\\nation, winds past its base to Amalfi. I hope\\nyou know Longfellow*s poem of that name.\\nSheer down the solid rock drops to the wavelets*\\nfoam-tipped caress. I can hear them when I\\nbend over the parapet of my terrace so high\\nabove them in the air. From that highway,\\nsuperb-macadamized, the ascent to our doorway\\nis a tortuous, devious, steep climb. A little\\ndonkey-cart does it. Two at a time inside, out-\\nside the driver alongside the poor beast and\\nwith a desperate clutch of its loose hide to help\\nit to keep its feet, and like poor Joe, ^keep", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "MAIORL 277\\nmoving on/ As I caught sight of that grip, a\\nflash of memory gave back a description read\\nlong ago, of an exceedingly high-bred aristo-\\ncratic, black and tan terrier its skin was at\\nleast two and one-half sizes too large for it/\\nPoor little donkey I can fancy him braying\\nhis loudest that dying refrain of the woman,\\nGlory I hallelujah I am going -where\\nThere s no more hard work to do\u00c2\u00bb\\nAfter he landed the four of us **safe and\\nsound/* he dragged up with equal faithfulness our\\nfour Saratogas/ When I saw that, I cowered\\ninto a comer and hid my eyes. How I hated\\nthat trunk of mine! I think that particular\\ndonkey ought to be canonized and made a\\nconstellation in one of the unoccupied places\\nof honor in the sky* Up here we see an in-\\nclosed world of beauty/ The vague distance of\\nthe sea, where the eye gets lost directly; the\\nlong, low promontory or cape, where Paestum\\nlies stranded in blue mist; mountains that lift\\nthemselves up so high they win crowns of snow\\nfor their temerity; great, soaring, jagged, cu-\\nriously rent cliffs, many with their sheltered\\nsides fashioned into terraces set in fruitful lemon\\nand orange groves; the indented coast, with", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "278 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nmany a pretty bay and baylet and little stretches\\nof exquisite beaches and countless villages in\\nthe tenderest tones of white, gt*ay, drab, etc. It\\nis a wonderful scene, and so soporific I could fall\\nasleep this very instant. It is Sunday all the\\ntime. The town of Maiori lies far below us on\\nthe northeast, with a population of six thousand,\\nan exquisite bit of harbor and lovely beach, I\\nsee pretty little craft, of many styles and si^es,\\nrun up on the last. Now and then, out on the\\nwater, a microscopic sail attached to a little\\nblack speck, or a lazily propelled row-boat,\\nbreaks up **the death in life^^ of the scene.\\nThey tell me as a fact that can be verified, of\\nother breaks of the following ilk, if one chooses\\nto hang by the hour over the parapet of the dif-\\nferent terraces or esplanades a rattle-trap of a\\nwagon, with a team of three animals abreast,\\nmixed horses and donkeys, or oxen and cows,\\nbut each one close kin to my poor Raffaello\\n(that is our donkey*s name) a tourist carriage\\nor donkey cart; or a procession of beasts of\\nburden,** with immense baskets, heaping full, or\\ncasks of wine and water, or some miscellaneous\\nburden, borne on top of their heads, and heavy\\nenough to bend them half-double at least in the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0330.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "MAIORI. 279\\nshape of ^women* Oftentimes men walk beside,\\nbut never seem to share those burdens.\\nMaiori lies at the mouth of a gorge, the\\nVal Tramonti. This runs (I do n*t know how\\nfar) back through a volcanic district. There is\\nan ascending drive that is singularly unique and\\ninteresting. On both sides, a jumble of rent\\nmountains; upheavals of beautiful knolls, that\\nwould themselves be mountains elsewhere, in\\nthe center of vast basins and deep valleys.\\nCapping many of the highest peaks are lone,\\npicturesque, gray old churches, with tall, square\\ntowers. The sides of the mountains are laid\\nout in terraces, covered with lemon groves or\\norchards. Continuous chains of quaint old\\ntowns nestle in the depths or perch at different\\naltitudes, so varied in their styles of architecture,\\ncombination of colors, and situations framed in\\nsuch a novel ensemble, one is kept in a glow all\\nthe way. All this region abounds with such\\ndrives.\\nVerily, if this modicum of a world is so full\\nof wonders, it is crushing to try to grasp the\\nstupendous creation of which it is so small a\\nfraction.\\nWe shall stay here, exploring, perhaps a\\nfortnight; and then to fresh fields.**", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0331.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "280 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nThere is talk of Sicily and Africa, if it\\ncontinues cool enough.\\nAnd to make last week one to set apart/*\\nmy ^good brother/ Mr. W reached me\\nwith one of his letters. There are a sacred few\\nwho keep us at our best. The angel not the\\ndemon in us answers to their summons. Just\\nto be with them seems to banish whatsoever is\\nunworthy. Heaven ^the All-good seems not\\nfar away, hedged off from entrance by this and\\nthat device of man but all about us, with its\\npaths ready and free to our treading, and its\\ntrue life not withdrawing and making conditions\\nof acceptance, but enfolding and making us feel\\nit is our own inheritance and we can enter\\ninto it.\\nI hope the little book is growing or quite\\ngrown. It interests me to hear of it. Do not\\ngive it up, whatever you do.\\nI noted the recovery of your peculiar and\\npretty penmanship the moment I saw your let-\\nter. Blessed be the potato, henceforth and\\nforever\\nL* G\u00c2\u00ab C.\\nMaiori, April 5, 1886.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0332.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0333.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0334.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "NAPLES.\\nW^ THINK I told you Sicily was being\\ntalked of for our next objective point.\\nWell, we had a beautiful drive to Salerno; from\\nthere by rail to Paestum, where I enjoyed the\\ngrand old temples for the second time, the others\\nfor the first time.\\nWe lunched in the temple of Neptune,\\nand I gathered again the acanthas and wild\\nflowers. The trip was charming, through a\\ncontinuous garden with orchards and farm\\nlands.\\nAt the temple, an incident occurred I do\\nnot like to recall. I was looking at some curios\\nsurrounded by a throng of boys of all ages.\\nWhile deciding about purchasing a very peculiar\\nterra cotta head, they pressed closer and closer\\nto me. Presently I wanted my glasses they\\nwere gone. I could not linger. Before we\\nreached the station, they were brought to me;\\nhad evidently been taken from my pocket for\\nthat very purpose, with the certainty of getting\\na reward. This was the only instance of the\\nkind that happened to me in all my wanderings.\\n(28J)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0335.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "282 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\nBack to Salerno, and from there to Pom-\\npeii. The whole route was a revel of spring\\nbeauty. Deep valleys, mountains, wide-spread-\\ning plains how beautiful and wonderful all\\nthis little earth 1 We spent the time till train\\nhour for Naples in the exhumed city. Nothing\\nmore marvelous than its frescoes so fresh and\\nwell-preserved.\\nNaples and shopping next day. Some friends\\nwho had just returned from Sicily and Tunis\\ncame to tell us about it. One brought many\\nTunis purchases to show us. Another gave a\\ndescription of a Tunis wedding, which, by a\\nhappy chance, they witnessed. The bride did\\nnot see her husband for eight days The dis-\\nplay of presents was most gorgeous.\\nAt 4 p. m., we went to the steamer for\\nSicily. A storm was brewing as we boarded it,\\nand by the late dinner hour it was upon us in\\nall its fury. One by one the passengers left the\\ntable till I alone remained. The effect on me\\nwas not ordinary sea-sickness, but a kind of\\ntorpidity once in my birth I could not lift my\\nhead, though I was not unconscious. The\\nstorm lasted all night, but the morning broke\\nbrilliantly clear and invigorating.\\nPalermo at noon we had to stay aboard", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0336.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0337.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "CL,\\nu", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0338.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "NAPLES. 283\\ntill 3 p* m., to be put through a process of dis-\\ninfecting. All sorts of officers came to examine.\\nBarges ran alongside with great tubs of disin-\\nfectant water to put soiled clothes through.\\nThen the dogano, and such a racket of talk and\\ncries Hotel des Palmes from the steamer. It\\nwas pleasantly situated and very comfortable,\\nand has a lovely garden. Before going to bed,\\nTunis was given up. The cousins could not\\nrisk the sea-sickness.\\nWe spent several days in Palermo and its\\nenvirons. I think it might be called the City of\\nMosaics. Its cathedrals, chapels, palaces, walls,\\neverywhere were a mass of this ornamentation.\\nWe went from one to another till my brain was\\nin a hviZZ* The gorgeousness and beauty and\\nexquisite execution of the extraordinary subjects\\nwere beyond description. Only seeing can\\ngrasp such wonders. There was an English\\ngarden full of flowers and familiar and un-\\nfamiliar trees and shrubbery. Indeed, Palermo\\ncan boast many gardens. In our drives on the\\nMarina, a very brilliant feature was the carts\\npeculiar to the country. The body of the cart,\\nthe two wheels, the shafts and the trappings of\\nthe donkey were covered with pictures and de-\\nsigns in the gaudiest colors blues, reds, greens.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0339.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "284 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\norange, etc. The peasants in them were\\narrayed in garb to match, with faces alight with\\nthe most good-humored smiles.\\nThe palaces we were most interested in\\nwere those of La Zisa and La Cuba, of\\nSaracenic origin. The feature of the former\\nwas its fountain bursting from the waU in\\nthe vestibule facing the entrance door, and\\ndescending over a succession of steps to the\\nfloor, where it took the form of a simple rec-\\ntangular cross. Above the fountain was a\\npainted arch, below which were three pictures\\nin Mosaics. This was very curious. La Cuba\\nhad nothing but a discolored honey-combed\\nvaulting in a small court. A pavilion formerly\\nbelonging to it had been removed to the center\\nof a garden on the opposite side of the street.\\nWe tramped to it. It had a dome in the roof\\nand an arched doorway, and was built of mas-\\nsive stones, but otherwise was not especially\\ninteresting.\\nTo Monreale was a drive of several miles,\\nto see its Cathedral and Abbey and fine views.\\nIts Mosaics are celebrated, but I did not dream\\nof anything like the wonderful Cloisters of the\\nAbbey. The Mosaics on the walls of the\\nCathedral cover an area of 70,000 square feet.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0340.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0341.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0342.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "NAPLES. 285\\nrepresenting scenes from both the Old and New\\nTestaments. I could only look and exclaim.\\nThe Cloisters are all that remain of the\\noriginal Abbey; they are quadrangular and the\\npointed arches supported by 2J6 columns are\\ncovered with mosaics, all of their capitals and\\nmany of the shafts being different. I could\\nnot even faintly grasp the amount of labor re-\\nquired for the execution of such elaborate work.\\nWe had haze, showers and rain every day, but\\nlost no time from our sight-seeing. One day\\nwe went in the rain to the Museum, where are\\nthe famous Metopes, the most ancient of\\nGreek sculptures except the lions of Mycene.*\\nThese are from the temple of Selinus, where\\nwe were to have gone, but a party of English,\\nwho had just returned, gave such a disenchant-\\ning account of the hardships of the trip, we gave\\nit up. These Metopes are on a sublime scale\\nrepresenting the contests of gods and goddesses\\nand heroes, and are indescribable. One is that\\nof Perseus slaying Medusa.\\nNot tiring of beautiful Palermo, but of the\\nrain, we left one afternoon for Girgenti, the\\nmost beautiful city of mortals,** according to\\nPindar. The railway must have been the work\\nof friendly genii, taste, labor and abundance of", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0343.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "286 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nthe coin of the county/ for it ran for miles be-\\ntween tripple hedges of roses, geraniums and\\ncacti, planted in the order I have named them\\none above the other.\\nIn Holland the hedges are of poppies, and\\nOut West in our own country, of sunflowers,\\nboth such a blaze of color, the one red, the\\nother orange, as to almost scorch the eye.\\nThe number of ruins of temples on a grand\\nscale in and around Girgenti keeps the sight-\\nseers **on the wing;* and at bed-time, the\\nsecond in the little day-book reads: What a\\nfull and interesting day I wish I had time to\\ntell of these in detail. But Syracuse and the\\nFountain of Arethusa I Thither the route was\\nof the most varied. Hills and wide-spreading\\nvales like our prairies cities crowning moun-\\ntains; sulphur-works and great blocks of it piled\\nat the stations ready for shipment; orchards,\\nexquisite gardens and vineyards, but no forests,\\nonly a few trees here and there, principally\\neucalyptus that have been recently set out.\\nWild flowers by the acre in countless varieties,\\none being a species of clover, the head three,\\nfour and five inches long, and blood-red in color.\\nWe stopped at Catania for lunch at the station,\\nordered it, and when it was served with one", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0344.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "NAPLES. 287\\nglance let it severely alone/^ Whereupon the\\nwaiter fell into a deep dejection. We reached\\nSyracuse at 9:30 p. m.\\nThe night drive through the streets to the\\nhotel was beautiful, and we slept the sleep of\\nthose who knew the good things of this world\\nwere awaiting us next morning. What a day\\nwe made of it! We rambled through the\\nRoman Ampitheater sat where the nobles had\\nin the Greek Theater; visited the quarries\\nquarries are one of the most famous character-\\nistics of Syracuse Euryalis, the fountain of\\nArethusa, indeed, leaving nothing unseen. In\\nthe quarry of Paradise is the famous Ear of\\nDionysius. You may be sure we tried its ex-\\ntraordinary echoes. In another, that of Latonia de\\nCappuccini, quarry of the Capuchins, we lunched.\\nThe manager of our hotel was our cicerone, a\\nrefined and gentlemanly person, but we could\\nnot induce him to join us, so strong was his feel-\\ning of the difference in our positions. He served\\nus with gloved hands, and when we had fin-\\nished withdrew from sight to take his lunch.\\nWe walked around the ruined fort atop of it,\\nand descended into the depths of its subterranean\\nfortifications. From the top, Mt. Etna was a\\nsublime spectacle its vast mass of snow-cov-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0345.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "288 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\ncred volcano seemed lifted bodily into the\\nloftiest heights of air while its base was\\nenveloped in an impenetrable white mist.\\nAnything more ideally ethereal could not be\\nimagined*\\nThe Fountain of Arethusa is inclosed in a\\ncircular basin^ and can be ga^ed upon from\\nabove standing on a platform with a railing. I\\nlooked and longed to get nearer. The custodian\\nwas at hand with key ready to unlock a gate.\\nI entered and found the familiar quotation a\\ntruth, Facilis est discensus.** The water was\\nedged with a thick growth of the papyrus, its\\nlong, slender stalks topped with a kind of palm-\\nlike tuft. There was a most enchanting walk\\nfrom our hotel to the fountain, and an irresistible\\nfascination found me repeating my visit to it.\\nIt took in one of the finest views of the harbor\\nand Mt. Etna. I often stopped as I wandered\\nto wonder if perchance I trod in the footsteps of\\nArchimides, if my glance rested on the same\\npoints in both land and water view, and\\nwished how I wished my brain might bum\\nwith his momentous thoughts and calculations.\\nExquisite views await and arrest the\\ntraveler everywhere in Sicily. There are some\\nbarren stretches, but these seem to be forgotten", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0346.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "Archimedes,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0347.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0348.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "NAPLES. 289\\nas soon as lost sight* of. As our train swept on^\\nthese were unrolled before us. Afar off, nest-\\nling on the side of a mountain, we caught a\\nglimpse of Meliti, where the Hybia honey of\\nthe poets was made. Once more at Catania\\nit seemed almost a miracle ^we were ushered\\ninto a Pullman palace car! We could hardly\\ncredit ^*the evidence of our senses.** No cars\\nare comparable for comfort, convenience and\\nelegance with those of our own native land. It\\nwas really amusing to see how soon we ad-\\njusted ourselves to the accustomed luxuries.\\nWe ascertained on inquiry that this was a\\nspecial train placed at the expense of the Pull-\\nman Company as an experiment. It was hoped\\nand thought it would be a success.\\nDirectly there was a chorus of exclamation,\\nThe seven rocks of the Cyclops The rocks\\nthe blind Polyphemus hurled so impatiently\\nafter **the crafty Ulysses.** They rise at no\\ngreat distance from the shore, and from the size\\nof some of them the strength of the giant must\\nhave been indeed taxed.\\nSpeeding over the plain of Catania took me\\nback to school days and my mythology. For\\nto a part of it belongs the touching story of\\nProserpine and its harrowing pictures of Pluto", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0349.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "290 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ncarrying her off, her arms outstretched for rescue,\\nand her lovely face furrowed with such terror,\\nhorror and agony as fixed itself indelibly upon\\nmemory. ^The Vale of Enna/* with its\\nflowers bedewed with the tears of the tortured\\nmother and lighted by the burning torch in her\\nhand, as she sought hither and thither for\\nher lost child how strange to think I was\\nrecalling all the story right there upon the\\nground.\\nWe made but a short tarry at Messina,\\nand then came our reluctant addio to beautiful,\\nhistoric Sicily. Trinacria of old, so called be-\\ncause of its triangular shape. Not anywhere\\nwas flaunted that hideous coat of arms the\\nhead of Medusa, the Gorgon with locks of\\nwreathing serpents and the three legs spring-\\ning from it as a center, representing a triangle,\\nand the haunting countenance of horror that\\nturned one into stone but to look at it. Yet, I\\nput the picture of it into my album of Sicilian\\nphotographs\\nHow the heart aches over the good-byes\\nthat we know mean forever.\\nGood-bye, O lovely Sicily.\\nL. G. C.\\nNaples, May t, J886.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0350.jp2"}, "351": {"fulltext": "Head of Medusa, Coat of Arms of Sicily, Palermo.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0351.jp2"}, "352": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0352.jp2"}, "353": {"fulltext": "LAUTERBRUNNER\\n^^OURS of J 5th received yesterday* May\\n^^j J 7th was the date of receipt of your last\\nprevious favor* May 23d I mailed a reply from\\nFlorence. Yet you say you have had no letter\\nfor three months. What does this mean? I\\nam wrought up/* I can tell you; because that\\nletter was the quintessence of myself. No use\\nto go into details about it. You, who so ade-\\nquately wreak me upon expression, witty,\\nwise, brilliant, great head and good heart**\\ndear me I were I the most egotistical instead of\\nmeek and lowly minded of women impossible\\nto compete with you in doing justice to myself\\nyou would resent such poaching in your\\npreserves.** So I leave you to gnash teeth over\\nthe loss you can so fully comprehend. I shall\\nnever get over it myself, never. I think I must\\nmention two items. There was a poem by\\nmyself and another by my cousin, Mrs. O\\nI sent the latter to prove that I do not monopo-\\nlize the family genius.** You will remember\\nyou put that query. Please make a note of my", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0353.jp2"}, "354": {"fulltext": "292 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nmagnanimity in not withholding an evidence of\\nits being possessed in even a higher degree by\\nanother member. Do you think many ^not\\nwomen, but fellow-beings would be equal to\\nthat Oh I groan to think of that lost scinti-\\nlation And shall every time I think of it. How\\nyou would have enjoyed it I And more how\\nyou would have flashed back again! Being\\nthe cause of wit in others is almost better than\\nbeing witty myself. No; come to think of it, I\\nhave to **own up*^ to preferring to being the\\npossessor at first hand, and even in the over-\\ntopping degree. There^s the milk and meekness\\nof human coveteousness, of which I am **a\\nbright and shining light. Not much of the\\ngoddess in such a confession. But **1 can t\\ntell a lie,* you know, any more than you or the\\nrest of my brethren and sisters. Oh! oh!\\noh\u00e2\u0080\u0094 h\u00e2\u0080\u0094 h! that letter!\\nI am so glad you had **a. good time with\\nMiss B How near she is to my heart you\\nmust know by this time.\\nI have had a letter since you saw her. She\\nwrote after her return home in a glow of fine\\nspirits. What a triumphal progress** she and\\nMrs. K had! Everybody, everywhere,\\nseeming to have vied in the kindliest courtesies,", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0354.jp2"}, "355": {"fulltext": "LAUTERBRUNNEN. 293\\nhospitalities and affectionate attentions. It did\\nme as much good to hear of it as if I had myself\\nbeen a recipient. Mrs. K deserved the\\nhospitalities in a special degree, her pleasant\\nhome in Covington having always been a real\\nKentucky open house.*^ As for Miss B\\nher extraordinary powers of entertaining that\\nhig head of hers so stuffed full of everything\\nthat adds to the feast and festival and highest\\nenjoyment she honors her welcomes. Some\\nday I count on seeing the work you are giving\\nso much time to. The **a.im** must be indeed\\na difficult thing to attain/* as you say. But\\nwhy not write unconscious of the aim?\\nWould not the aim be attained, and more hap-\\npily I ask, not to giv^f but to gain, informa-\\ntion.\\nYou hope companions are kind. These\\nare favorite cousins. What a lovely spot\\nthis is! We are making a little sojourn of\\na week **in the beautiful valley.** The\\nStaubach is shimmering its long, filmy length\\nin the sunlight to my right: the Jungfrau\\nlifting just opposite its sun-struck dazzle\\nof snow, and beautiful as she is reported,\\nwhich cannot be said of all Jungfraus. The\\nvillage is prettily scattered along the glacier", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0355.jp2"}, "356": {"fulltext": "294 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nstream tearing like mad through the depths\\nof the valley; mountains hem it in, some\\nsnow-covered the year round; others, bare\\nrock; lower ones are covered with trees and\\ngrass. Many show only precipitous walls,\\ndown which tumble and foam countless cas-\\ncades. One long, wide reach of the mountain\\nside is a vast meadow, here and there broken\\ninto knolls outlined by rows of trees, but the\\nmeadow part is mantled with the velvetiest\\ngreen eyes ever fastened upon, and it is all\\ndotted with little huts and bams, the lower\\nhalf white and the upper, the richest reddish\\nbrown, under its roof of the same hue project-\\ning into the deep eaves, we know so well from\\nour ornamental Swiss chalets.* Nothing\\ncould be lovelier or more unique and pic-\\nturesque. I have seen nothing equal to it, any-\\nwhere else. Words cannot picture it, and I do\\nnot believe any artist could paint it.\\nL. G. C.\\nLauterbmanea, July 29, 1886.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0356.jp2"}, "357": {"fulltext": "ON THE NILE.\\n^^OU will have to take jostle instead of\\npenmanship; but I have a comforting\\nconviction that will be preferred to nothing at\\nall, especially as I am giving you my best.\\nThis is my third day s steaming up the\\nNile. The most enthusiastic tourists consider\\nthis prosaic in the extreme, and that the dahaheah\\nis the only method by which to take the Nile.\\nAs for me is it my accumulating years, I won-\\nder? I am more than content to be prosaic.\\nWe are about 125 or 130 miles from Cairo.\\nSuch a strange, kaleidoscopic, fascinating expe-\\nrience as this is I think I have quite lost my\\nhead. I am totally unequal to putting it into\\nwords. But I shall try to toss you bits of it\\nEsterhazy scattering diamonds as he passes, if\\nyou choose First, the thrilling episode. We\\nsteamed away from Marseilles **in the teeth of\\na storm,** which rapidly grew into such violence\\neven Miss B got to her prayers. For my-\\nself, I was in my berth, too sick u e,t dizzy\\nto care for anything. A tremendous wave\\n(295)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0357.jp2"}, "358": {"fulltext": "296 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nburst through my door, flooding everything;\\nthe floor looked the very sea itself, I could lift\\nmy head only long enough to ask if the door\\nwas gone.\\nThis was a dangerous storm indeed. No\\nvessel left Marseilles for two days after ours on\\naccount of it. But we weathered it, and lived\\nto enjoy the beautiful Mediterranean, the ex-\\nceeding wonder of its blueness and its lovely\\nsunrises and sunsets. Also, we made acquaint-\\nance with many pleasant fellow-passengers, and\\nMiss B as is her wont, had a lively flirta-\\ntion with a distinguished fellow-citizen from the\\nHub, now an appointee of government at Alex-\\nandria, **an associate justice of international\\nlaw, or something like it.\\nWe had a day at Alexandria. Saw one of\\nthe seven wonders it boasts of the Pharos,\\nPompey*s Pillar, the Serapeum, some of its ba-\\nzaars, and had two charming drives to its\\nfamous quais and one garden. Everywhere\\nall the phases of oriental life greeted us. Any-\\nthing more exciting is inconceivable. Any enu-\\nmeration would be absurd, as you know just\\nwhat they must have been.\\nAt dark the judge saw us off and looked a\\nMelancholy Jaques indeed, as my detective", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0358.jp2"}, "359": {"fulltext": "ON THE NILE, 297\\neyes saw his parting pressure of Miss B *s\\nhand*\\nWe came by train to Cairo. Such a\\ncharming young Englishman sat beside me, a\\nnaval officer. We fell into the friendliest talk\\nat once, and kept it up until I was breathless.\\nI saw him once again. We shook hands and\\nparted. I do not know his name, but I shall\\nremember him forever. I have come to think\\nyoung English naval officers a class set apart;\\nfor at supper, on reaching the hotel, another\\nsat beside me, and we talked till both forgot to\\n**do justice to the fare before us.^^ We met\\nseveral times, and I have the most precious\\nlittle good-by note which I shall never part\\nwith. At the second interview we merrily in-\\ntroduced each to the other. Do you know it\\nmakes my heart sore to think we shall never\\nmeet again\\nThe above is proof that after all the living\\nhuman interest is paramount. The Cairo life\\ninto which I plunged, or maybe it swallowed\\nme up, did not dim the tenderness of this\\nexperience.\\nAt the Pyramids I would have written to\\nyou, but I found myself in the hands of the\\nPhilistines Beduoins, and never did I enjoy", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0359.jp2"}, "360": {"fulltext": "29S BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nanything more. Beyond all the wonder, sub-\\nlimity of feeling and unutterable admiration for\\nthem, the Pyramids, another of the seven\\ncame a curious thrill of bond and blood that\\nmade me sit down with and walk about with,\\nthat throng of importunate vendors of spurious\\nantiques,** and try to get at them. Shrewd,\\namiable, bright, ready, handsome, picturesque-\\nlooking fellows we were soon on the best of\\nterms. We gripped hands at parting. No,\\nthe devil is not as black as he is painted!\\nThey made Miss B nervous. But I hope I\\nshall see them again.\\nAlso we saw the lone pillar at Heliopolis, a\\ngarden in which is the Virgin s tree I have\\nleaves and a ball from it; it is a syacmore ^an\\nostrich garden with 600 of the bare-legged\\nbypeds strutting round and now and then flap-\\nping their $300 apiece matchless feathers. The\\nMuseum, where mummies are a drug,** and\\ngenuine scarabea too, but you could not buy\\none of them for **a. mint of money,** The\\nisland of Rhoda, where Pharaoh*s daughter\\npicked up Moses, The indescribable mosques,\\ntombs of the Khalifs, Bachas and Marmelukes,\\nand just a thousand or more wonders that seemed\\nto have been handed down from the Arabian", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0360.jp2"}, "361": {"fulltext": "ON THE NILE. 299\\nNights/* Camels, donkeys, turbaned Turks,\\nNubians blacker than night, veiled women I\\ncan more easily tell you what was not than\\nwhat was there. I am only sorry I cannot go\\nback and stay **ever so long.** Six days ^that\\nis only an aggravation\\nThe steamer lands at every point of in-\\nterest, and arrangements are made for us to see\\nthem. Donkeys and camels where too far to\\nwalk. We went on donkeys to see the site of\\nMemphis, Tombs of Apis and the Serapum,\\netc. My donkey and its little sixteen year old\\ndriver were jewels. The first was as well\\ngaited as any horse, and the latter was proud to\\nshow him off too proud to take any account\\nof his own sixteen mile trot. All we saw at\\nMemphis was the site of some fragments of\\nstatues and temples. The shifting sands some-\\ntimes bury it from sight sometimes, but rarely,\\nleave a little bare. The tombs are in splendid\\norder for seeing long avenues, the floor a per-\\nfect level, and everybody carrying a candle.\\nYou can fancy how unique and beautiful the\\nflitting glimmer of the moving throng now\\npeering into the dark recesses in which are the\\ngreat, massive tombs, or again running their\\nlights along the walls to see the exquisite picture", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0361.jp2"}, "362": {"fulltext": "300 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nstones, or gathering in groups to discuss them.\\nBut oh how I wish all I care for could see\\nwith their own eyes\\nAs we glide along, we see many character-\\nistic features of this twelve miles wide strip\\nof wonderland. Long trains of camels Bedouin\\nencampments stately fellows in white turbans\\nand flowing draperies, sweeping past on their\\nfleet steeds vast green fields mud towns and\\nvillages the tall, beautiful palms in groves and\\navenues sugar plantations, with their stacked\\ncanes and great factories; long tongues of sand\\nfringed with pelicans flocks of herons winging\\ntheir way in the blue sky; and ^there is the\\nluncheon gong\\nAfter that interesting collation, how tire-\\nsome eating is I wish we could live on air,\\nperfume of flowers, sunbeams and the like.\\nEverybody nearly is English, and they come\\nout strong as trenchermen and women. One,\\nCanon Farrer, not the canon of Westminster,,\\neats and drinks to well, it is none of my busi-\\nness. I need see nothing. I do not wish to.\\nThe guests of this steamer number ex-mem-\\nbers of Parliament and their families, canons,\\ncurates, and plenty of people with handles to\\ntheir names but they are not specially inter-", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0362.jp2"}, "363": {"fulltext": "ON THE NBLE, 30 J\\ncsting. Mr. Cook owns these steamers and is\\nhimself aboard a large^ rather fine-looking\\nman, but far from being a model of deportment;\\nsimply seems quite deficient in good manners.\\nThe river, the land, the people, the animals,\\nthe ruins and their history, and legends with\\nbooks, books forever! furnish my daily food.\\nBut I like companionship, and if the whole\\ntruth must be told prefer that of some really\\nsplendid man to this of my own sex. One\\ncan live too much in books, I fear. Do not they\\nunfit for\\nLiving in common ways with\\nCommon men\\nBut why should I complain of anything\\nunder the sun\\nWell, good-bye.\\nL. G. C*\\nOn the Nile, December 30, 1886.\\nI", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0363.jp2"}, "364": {"fulltext": "EGYPT (FROM PARIS).\\nI^^OTHING like agreeable surprises, is\\nthere I ought to be on the broad At-\\nlantic, but am not. Let Miss B go without\\nme several days ago* I am going to linger here\\nfor several weeks longer. There is the woman\\nfor you! I wonder if I can go back to where I\\nleft off. What did I tell you I wish I could\\nrecall. But don*t you call my young naval\\nofficers infernal.** I cannot allow that. If\\nonly you could have seen and known them,\\nyou would go down on your knees to take that\\nback. You cannot even know how sore it\\nmakes my heart to think I shall never see them\\nagain. Ah woe is me\\nNo, I did not, of course, take a run over\\nto Jerusalem.** Yet two more weeks would\\nhave accomplished that. The other two, Miss\\nB and her friend, would not even consider\\nit. I could not go alone. But indeed Egypt\\nwas enough, had we only stayed long enough.\\nWhat we had was for me that first taste of\\nblood that makes the tiger.** Did I not tell you\\n(302)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0364.jp2"}, "365": {"fulltext": "EGYPT, FROM PARIS. 305\\nI had found out what it was to be a lotus-\\ncater?\\nNo need of anything but sitting still to be\\nborne by that invisible, noiseless steam-power\\nup and down the Nile that wonderful, mys-\\nterious, enchanted stream. How its waters\\nyour warning came too late; I had already\\nquaffed deep and long of it ^thank the Lord\\nif that take me back slipped away from be-\\nneath us how the banks studded here with its\\npicture-villages built of mud, there with groves\\nof stately palm trees, or yonder with some\\nfamous ruins, sped by carrying the enraptured\\ngaze with them into the distances that dimmed\\nand melted into the sky; how the unfolding\\nscenes ahead won it after a time of dreams,\\nrevery, ecstasy, to behold great hills gliding\\ntowards us with lengthening chains of grottoes\\nhewed out of their solid rock, and wrought and\\ncarved into stately monuments for dead kings\\nor their mighty subjects how the day wore on\\nto sunsets of inexpressible glory, succeeded by\\nintervals of curious grey, and then the sudden\\nafterglow that made sky, air, water and earth\\nan ethereal commingling of all the tints that in\\nthe colors of the rainbow live and play in the\\nplighted clouds! Ah! mere existence there", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0365.jp2"}, "366": {"fulltext": "304 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nwas bliss^ more than akin, beyond that of lotus-\\neating. But alas how to give you any idea\\nof it\\nThere was a comical side, or else I must\\nhave become a slave to the enchantment of\\nsuch a life. The contact with the natives.\\nThey came in swarms the moment the steamer\\nlanded, to beg if there was no excursion with\\ntheir donkeys to act as guides if there was.\\nHere is an instance We were to go to the\\nrock tombs of Beni-Hassan. At seven in the\\nmorning, behold me mounted on a miserable\\nlittle scrap of a donkey, for which my English\\nsaddle even more than myself was a world too\\nlarge. The road varied from sharp inclines to\\nsteep ascents. How was I to stick to my steed,\\nwas scarcely queried before I found myself\\nclasped in the dirty arms of my tall Arab and\\nfirmly pinioned. No use to squirm. That\\nonly made him tighten his embrace. My only\\ncomfort was seeing all my sisters in the same\\nplight. I do not know what I did not dread\\nbut certainly hosts to which your Holy Land of\\n*f s** would have been welcome guests.\\nOnce at the tombs, I forgot my terrors. Spacious\\nchambers hollowed out of the solid rock, with\\nceiling and walls decorated with biographical", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0366.jp2"}, "367": {"fulltext": "EGYPT, FROM PARIS. 305\\npaintings; all the details of the history of the\\nlife of the occupant. And in front those mag-\\nnificent columns that have preceded our era,\\nnotwithstanding their Doric appearance, by some\\n3,000 years,** says Mariette Bey. They are\\nperfect Doric style, and imposing as magnificent.\\nOne of the pictures is that of a body of emi-\\ngrants, **the most ancient-known example of\\nthe hordes attracted by the proverbial fertility of\\nEgypt. Its date is 4,800 years ago. Three\\ndays and a half at Luxor and Karnak and\\nThebes. Temples, kings, tombs, palaces.\\nColossi-obelisks, all carved in intaglios and\\nreliefs, and covered with those brilliant paintings\\nthat defy time, weather, everything but the pro-\\nfaning hand of man. I rode to melodious\\nMemnon on a donkey tn a sho%ver. Rain in\\nEgypt And it was afternoon I Bah how I\\ndetest doing the right thing at the wrong time.\\nI thought of you and the letter I meant to have\\nwritten on that lofty knee. I had my music,\\nthough\\nAll the way to the limit of my trip, Assuan,\\nancient Syene,** there was repetition of land-\\nings, donkeys, guides, rides and ruins. I never\\ntired. Each had its special attractions. I lived\\nin a daze. Ah I wish every time I think of", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0367.jp2"}, "368": {"fulltext": "306 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nthem to be back and doing it all over and over\\nagain. Yes, when I come, you must listen and\\nlook* For I shall have pictures to help me tell\\ntheir story those beautiful, sublime monuments\\nof a mighty people and civilization, vanished\\nfrom the face of the earth these thousands of\\nyears ago.\\nI am growing eager to see that Venture\\non the Sea of Literature/ Have I told you I\\nlike the title amazingly I shall be astonished\\nand disgusted if it is not a happy hit. It shall\\nbe Those Your friend,\\nL. G. C.\\nParis, February 10, J 883.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0368.jp2"}, "369": {"fulltext": "CUBA.\\nES, I went to Cuba, and it was a ravish-\\ning experience. Not quite an Eden, but\\nso near to being I There was not an American\\n{u e., a Yankee) of us all who did not fully be-\\nlieve it would be, once Uncle Sam* held it in\\nhis sturdy grip* To the last man and woman\\nand the best, we defiantly broke the command-\\nment and coveted our neighbor s possession with\\nour whole hearts. It is the most unreal reality,\\nthe most dream-like substantiality, the most\\nvision-like, sure-enough scrap of earth imagin-\\nable. I feared to shut my eyes, lest on opening\\nthem it would have vanished. It looked as\\nmagical an isle as that. Oh h Just writing\\nabout it makes me catch my breath and widen\\nmy eyes to get it all back again.\\nThe unspeakable splendors of its tropical\\nvegetation not only avenues and groves of\\nlofty palm trees, but vast forests of them; not\\nonly ^Mofty palm trees, but countless others,\\ngorgeous in a burst of bloom without foliage\\nnot a suspicion of green mingled with that bla^e\\n(307)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0369.jp2"}, "370": {"fulltext": "308 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nof richest rose^ scarlet^ purple or white, as it\\nhappened to be not trees only, but clambering\\nvines, all aflower with such lily bells as made\\nme rub my eyes to make sure there was no illu-\\nsion; and oh! such vistas and vistas of ^*the\\nwonders of creation as made me marvel what\\nsurpassing them could be possible in any other\\nsphere\\nI wish you could have seen the sunrise as\\nwe steamed into the harbor of Havana, the city\\nitself seeming to rise out of the water like\\nbeautiful Venice,^* and like it, fashioned by\\nthe cunningest conjury out of sunbeams, the\\ncolors of the rainbow, the ethereal elements of\\nthe blue empyrean, the crystalline layers of the\\natmosphere, the tints of time and the films of\\nearth Yes, and have stood, as I stood later,\\non the ramparts of the fort, taking in such a\\nspectacle of **the kingdoms of tliis earth as\\nswept me into thinking it almost equaled that of\\nthe Great Temptation on the Mount I\\nI am forgetting to tell you of the trip. We\\ntook the steamer Niagara at St. Augustine. It\\nwas fresh and clean and very comfortable.\\nAmong our fellow-travelers were several who\\nproved very companionable and courteous. The\\nweather was bright, mild, delightful. There", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0370.jp2"}, "371": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 309\\nwere several young Cubans, quite attractive in.\\nappearance*\\nNext morning I rose early and went on\\ndeck in time for the sunrise. It was wonder-\\nful. The First Officer*^ said, **lt is a rare\\nsunrise/* which made me more than thankful\\nto see it. After breakfast, I stayed on deck to\\nsee the gulf sights. Saw jelly-fish in great\\nnumbers; they looked like fungi. The coast\\nof Florida was in sight all the time; also an\\noccasional vessel, ship or steamer. At night.\\nCape Farewell light-house, the long wake of\\ngleaming, flashing phosphorescent waves;\\nOrion, in all his glory overhead, and the stars\\nmore brilliant than I had ever seen them. Re-\\nmained up so late did not undress, as I wished\\nto be on deck again at the earliest possible\\nhour. At 5:30 the moon was in its last\\nquarter; the sky a lovely glow. Just as the\\nsun rose above the horizon, we were steaming\\ninto port. The spectacle was indescribably\\nbeautiful and unique. Fort Morro Castle, on\\nits not high bluff, the circular sweep of the\\nshore line, the city as it were rising out of the\\nwater, with its buildings so varied in size,\\nstyle and color the harbor filled with shipping\\nand innumerable little craft shooting hither and", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0371.jp2"}, "372": {"fulltext": "3 JO BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthither^ and the dazzling sunlight firing it all\\ninto a glory no words could catch\\nWe were quickly passed into a rude kind\\nof gondola, and skimmed over the liquid inter-\\nval between the steamer and quai.\\nWhat a medley of fellow-beings awaited\\nus on landing! What a Jargon of sounds!\\nEverything so new and strange to us. A pro-\\ncession of cabs and victorias bore us our\\nseveral ways. We went to Hotel Quinta\\nMenida, kept by a young fellow-countryman in\\nconjunction with some Cubans. The building\\nis in the Moresque style, round a triangular\\ncourt, arcades on this court to two stories.\\nThe entrance on the ground floor is under an\\narcade that goes round the entire exterior, into\\na lofty vestibule like those seen all over Europe.\\nThis ground floor is paved with great slabs of\\nstone! the stairways and all the other floors\\nwith white marble. The ceilings are from\\neighteen to twenty feet high. Windows and\\ndoors are also very high and broad. On the\\nhalls there are double doors, a massive inside one,\\nand a glazed outside one of half its height.\\nThis is for ventilation and privacy. The same\\nmassive doors open on the balconies with which\\nevery room is provided and the outer with", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0372.jp2"}, "373": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 3n\\nmarble slats, for adjusting the light* The two\\nmiddle panes of the inner doors are on hinges,\\nmaking them movable for the same purpose.\\nThere are no glass windows such as we have,\\nbut there are transoms in ornamental devices of\\nstained glass, generally white and blue. The\\nhouse has three stories, and a flat roof with a\\nbalustrade that can be used for promenading or\\nsitting. The laundry is on one corner, and\\nChinese, blacks, children and dogs seem to be\\nperfectly at home there. The view was fine\\nand extensive.\\nWe went over the whole edifice, peering\\ninto the rooms, corridors, etc., getting that first\\nlasting impression.* The parlor is an immense\\nroom, furnished peculiarly, one-half being in\\ncane seat, sofas and chairs placed in the wall\\nRows of flowers all around; a central rug, with\\na geometrical square of rocking chairs inclosing\\nit, and a table in the center. In the exact center\\nof the spacious room, another table, with a fixed\\nnumber of chairs packed up close to it. On the\\nopposite side, the same arrangement is repro-\\nduced in upholstered furniture, covered with\\nwhite Holland. From the ceiling depended\\nchandeliers and brackets of tropical blooms and\\nvines, while the side walls were covered with", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0373.jp2"}, "374": {"fulltext": "312 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\ngreat mirrors. The entire interior is white*\\nAs a room, it is certainly unique. I have never\\nseen anything like it. The arcades on this\\nparlor floor are full of small tables, where the\\nmeals are served, of which there are two, break-\\nfast at 9 a. m. and dinner at 6 p. m. The dishes\\nare the same for both, except the addition of\\nsoup for dinner. Oranges caught on a fork and\\npeeled it takes both practice and skill to accom-\\nplish this ^are sucked, the pulp not being swal-\\nlowed. Fried plantains are a disappointment,\\ntasting as if they had soured before or in the\\nprocess of cooking. A small panfish is exceed-\\ningly delicate and appetizing, and a very petite\\nbanana is delicious. Coffee is only tolerable.\\nCan any anywhere compare with our own\\nhome coffee?** Ice is manufactured and the\\nsupply is abundant.\\nOne of the first things to do was to take an\\norientation drive. The temperature was per-\\nfect; a breeze, just warm enough, just cool\\nenough, blowing steadily. The sky was tinted\\nin pinks, green and gold. The city seemed an\\nenchanted one. I half feared to close my eyes,\\nlest it would vanish. The houses had caught\\nthe sky tints, being **in all the colors of the\\nrainbow;** are painted so. The most of them", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0374.jp2"}, "375": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 3B\\nare but one story or two stories. Arcades are\\nthe rule, some with columns of different color\\nfrom the house. The windows, almost with-\\nout exception, are unglazed, having instead a\\nlight iron grating. This is a most singular and\\ncurious feature. The inmates chat through\\nthem with friends on the outside, looking as if\\nin prison. Mischievous or venturesome ur-\\nchins clamber up and cling to the inside like\\nbirds in a cage. The Prado, quite recently laid\\nout, and many of the squares, are beautiful and\\nlight up brilliantly in the very superior quality\\nof gas. The streets were not thronged, as I\\nexpected them to be. There was a glorious\\nafterglow,** which gave us as long a drive as\\nwe wished. I got up at 2 a. m. to look for the\\nSouthern Cross, that same First Officer hav-\\ning told me it did not rise till after midnight. I\\nsaw it, to my great gratification. This was the\\nsecond time. The first time was on the Nile.\\nOne morning, we went out early **to go to\\nmarket,** this being a thing to do in all cities\\nof note. The walk was short, leading past one\\nof the public squares, with few trees, but pleas-\\nant looking. There was a most miscellaneous\\ncrowd of people and beasts of burden.**\\nHorses (very small) and donkeys with immense", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0375.jp2"}, "376": {"fulltext": "314 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\npanniers filled with every conceivable product\\nand commodity toivs of them fastened to each\\nother by their tails, and so covered up with\\ntheir burdens only their feet were visible. Fancy\\nthe spectacle. The women were of the com-\\nmon and lowest classes, dark-yellow and black\\nin color, wearing no bonnets, of course, but only\\nsome light veil over the head. Very few of either\\nmen or women looked clean. The market\\nbuilding was a large structure, well lighted, and\\nexhibiting every known vegetable as well as all\\nthe delicious tropical fruits.\\nI had an experience worth chronicling.\\nMy watch was in its little outside breast-pocket\\nattached by pin and chain, but in full view. A\\nfine, open-countenanced man at one of the stalls\\ntouched me gently on my arm and warned me\\nto put it out of sight. This was done in panto-\\nmine, as he spoke no English and I no Spanish,\\nbut was as plain as v/ords could say it.^^ I\\nnever felt or gave warmer thanks. The dirt\\nand odors soon became unbearable, and we re-\\nturned to our hotel just in time for breakfast.\\nWe tried a shopping expedition with some\\nother ladies and an interpreter a very pretty\\nCuban but it was not a success. Saw noth-\\ning characteristic but the mode of shopping.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0376.jp2"}, "377": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 315\\nThe goods were brought to our carriages and\\nshown to us by the interpreter and a clerk.\\nOne afternoon we went to the Cathedral\\nit was grey and rather picturesque, but what\\nwe wished to see was not shown, so we soon\\nleft. Thence we drove to the Gov.-GeneraFs\\ncountry-seat to see its noted garden, which\\nwent beyond expectation. We walked through\\navenues of stately palms, and saw tropical trees\\nin bloom of which we had never read or heard.\\nOne, the Carolinas, had fringe-like tassels of\\nblossoms in Magenta color, graduated from\\nvery deep to the faintest tint. The threadlike\\nfringe was tipped with the deepest red and\\ngold. This was one of those without foliage\\nor a suspicion of green.*^ The house is unpre-\\ntending indeed, and the grounds only fairly kept\\nup. Brought away several flowers and pressed\\nthem.\\nAfter our 6 o^clock dinner and a short re-\\nunion in the parlor, a party of us went to one of\\nthe most frequented of the public squares to hear\\nthe band and watch the crowd. The party\\nconsisted of a German gentleman from Chicago,\\nof political and journal prominence, a Catholic\\npriest from New England his tongue shot with\\nsuch arrows of wit and flashes of eloquence", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0377.jp2"}, "378": {"fulltext": "3\\\\6 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS*\\none could hardly keep back a hurra for old\\nIreland and two ladies beside myself, I fell\\nto the care of the priest, and made merry over\\nhaving a priest for a cavalier, as I took his arm.\\nBut indeed it was a curious experience.\\nWe found seats and watched the kaleido-\\nscopic show. One feature claimed special at-\\ntention the way the men and women kept\\napart. This is not more pronounced in a\\nQuaker meeting-house. The priest pointed out\\nthe son of the Duke of Leeds, a tall, large,\\nstriking-looking man and a count. Indeed, the\\ngraphic, lively loquacity of the good Father*^\\nadded so much to our entertainment, we in-\\ncluded him nolens votens in all our after move-\\nments. At 9:30 we went to a grand cafe and\\nhad lemonade, milk punch and wine. Oh! I\\nmust not forget to tell you my gallant escort\\npresented me with a bouquet.\\nNext day we went to Cerro, a suburb of\\nfine private residences with an aristocratic con-\\nvent.^ We drove up to one of the handsomest\\nplaces, and got permission to walk through it\\nThis proved to be the residence of the Senator\\nto Spain. His young son escorted us, as well as\\nthe gardener, and both were models of courtesy.\\nThey presented us with flowers and leaves^", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0378.jp2"}, "379": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 317\\namong the latter being that of the guava, which\\nI have pressed. We could only drive around the\\nConvent of the Sacred Heart, not having pro-\\nvided ourselves with any introduction. We\\ngained admission to another residence, that of a\\nSenor de la Costa. It and its grounds were a\\ndream of beauty. But I must to other excur-\\nsions, or I will never get away from Cuba.\\nOne to a great sugar plantation a charm-\\ning drive from the city. This was under the\\nauspices of the German gentleman, who had\\nletters of introduction to everything worth see-\\ning in the island. When we reached the en-\\ntrance gate, admission was most decidedly\\ndenied. It took talk and time to obtain even an\\ninterview with the owner. Finally he came a\\nvery handsome, young, distingue-looking man.\\nAt first he was most haughtily courteous\\nand immovable could not grant entrance* A\\nrecent experience with some ill-mannered fellow-\\ncountrymen finally explained this. In the ab-\\nsence of the family, they had gone into the\\nhouse, invaded every part of it, despite the re-\\nmonstrances of the servants. At last he gave\\nway and at once became the most gracious of\\nhosts, treating us as if we were specially invited\\nguests. He went with us himself through all", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0379.jp2"}, "380": {"fulltext": "3J8 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nthe works, showing and explaining, and we\\nsaw the full process of the sugar-making, from\\nthe feeding of the stalks to the mills to where it\\ncame forth in beautiful glittering crystals of\\ngolden-brown sugar. On parting, he presented\\neach with a cornucopia of it, filled by himself in\\nour presence* I shall keep mine intact as long\\nas I live.\\nAnother took in two plantations one of\\nbananas, the other of pineapples. We had the\\nprivilege of gathering from each for ourselves.\\nA very small bunch of bananas sufficed, and\\nwe had them put in our carriages while we\\nwalked some distance to the pineapple planta-\\ntion. None of us had ever seen one. It be-\\nlonged to some native Cubans who had a cot-\\ntage at the entrance. One went with us as\\nguide. The plants were in. regular rows, aver-\\naging from four to five feet in height, one apple\\nto each rising in the center of a large cluster of\\nstiff leaves that curve like those of the aloe, and\\nhave much the same appearance and coloring.\\nThe guide invited us to pluck for ourselves,\\neach took one. We little suspected what **a.\\nbig contract even one was, as we gayly and\\nproudly started on the return tramp, after hav-\\ning tried to see which could find the Biggest one", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0380.jp2"}, "381": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 3J9\\nto pluck. Shifting back and forth, first one hand\\nand then the other, began almost immediately.\\nThis did not help long. In a very few moments\\nI was lagging and panting, and next, possessed\\nwith a fright and dread that the arms could not\\nhold out and that I would have to drop my\\ntreasure. Then such a jump of my heart A\\nquick step by my side, a relieving hand slipped\\nbetween mine and that stem held by such a de-\\nspairing clutch, and voice and words that might\\nhave been those of my own special **good\\nangel Allow me to carry your apple.** But\\ndidn t I! At the cottage, a feast of pineapples\\nawaited us peeled, sliced and laid in sugar-\\nbesprinkled layers. *^Fit food for the gods\\nindeed 1 wonder if they ever had such.\\nJust one more excursion, and I will have\\nto sing\\nBeautiful isle, farewell, farewell.**\\nThis was to the caves, sixty miles by rail\\nfrom Havana. A very early start was impera-\\ntive, so we were at the station before it was\\nclear dawn and partaking of a breakfast of coffee\\nand rolls to serve the sixty miles. It was far\\nfrom being a temptation to over-indulgence!\\nThe cave was a short drive from the railway\\nand was made in a variety of vehicles but the", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0381.jp2"}, "382": {"fulltext": "320 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\nday was fine and our spirits elastic, and every\\nmoment seemed a special enjoyment, in spite of\\nour lack of comfort. The cave itself awoke all\\nour enthusiasm. Up pretty ascents, down into\\ntwilight depths, across fairy-like bridges, among\\nsubterranean wonders that exhausted exclama-\\ntions, and panting and perspiring till my escort,\\nthe German gentleman, groaned between gasps,\\n**I didn*t bargain for this!^ Fortunately, at\\nthat juncture, we came upon one of the most\\nextraordinary features, a large, magnificent, per-\\nfectly-formed organ. Striking it brought forth\\nsonorous responses. A kind of awe hushed us\\ninto silence. The Bride, another of these ex-\\ntraordinary formations, next elicited unlimited\\nadmiration. She stood, gowned in white, with\\nher filmy veil enveloping her, as if waiting for\\nthe bridegroom. By what subtle processes of\\ncorigelation had nature fashioned anything so\\nrealistic! One could only gaze and question,\\nand give homage, and leaving her presence,\\nturn to look again and again, not hoping to see\\nher ever again.\\nDo you wonder we were loath to leave the\\nbeautiful island I said, I have always been\\nopposed to annexation, but Cuba Yes, I own\\nto wishing for it henceforth.**", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0382.jp2"}, "383": {"fulltext": "CUBA. 32\\\\\\nI think have never imposed a postscript\\non you. Now I am going to.\\nLooking over what I have written, I find\\nI have omitted mentioning one thing of great\\nmoment. It seems that many of the planters\\nare retaining in slavery a number of colored\\npeople who are really free, but ignorant of the\\nfact. These, I presume, are the ones who come\\nunder the decree giving freedom to all slaves\\nsixty or over sixty years old, issued by the\\nSpanish government July, J 870. This is\\nsurely a crying injustice.\\nCuba, April 7, J 885.\\nL. G. C.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0383.jp2"}, "384": {"fulltext": "A VISION OF FATIGUE.\\n(E were a party of nine or ten, making\\na summer of it.\\nPut-in-Bay came first on the list of places\\nto be visited. It was unusually crowded and\\nbrilliant that season. All the hotels were full.\\nThe weather was enchanting the temperature\\nexhilarating. Even the wines for which it was\\nso celebrated were not more so. Day after day\\nsped in a kind of intoxication till we felt we\\ncould bear it no longer, and to the last one of us\\nvoted to go home for a rest\\nThat trip was one to be remembered. It\\nwas Sunday afternoon. We had to take an\\nexcursion steamer, on boarding which the only\\nstanding-room even to be had was to lean\\nagainst the pillars of the deck. After a long\\nwait taking turns in this way, the captain\\nliad his state-room put at our service, and we\\nrealized what a gift of an invention chairs were.\\nOn reaching our home port at 2:30 a. m., we\\nJiad to trudge several miles, sharing the carrying\\n(322)", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0384.jp2"}, "385": {"fulltext": "A VISION OF FATIGUE. 323\\nof twin babies with their two nurses. No one\\ncomplained or shirked. But the lines\\nhed bed delicious bed,\\nThat heaven or earth to the weary head,\\nwere never more convincing than when we\\nsought ours.\\nNext morning breakfast at nine, and an im-\\nmediate return to them.\\nAt once^ on dragging and throwing my-\\nself upon mine, the vision began.\\nI was back at Put-in-Bay. It was a crystal\\nworld. The island, hotels, houses, people, the\\ndistant shores with their villages, the various\\nvessels, all, everything, I could see in and\\nthrough, as I floated around in a lovely little\\nsail-boat of crystal, and looked down through\\nits bottom into the crystal depths of the lake.\\nBut there was no time to be lost in wonder.\\nIn the twinkling of an eye, I was standing in\\nspace surrounded by gigantic mountains that\\nrose to the very firmament. They were of\\ncountless shapes, some cloven into rifts and\\nclefts, others smooth as velvet lawns, and so\\nprecipitous I felt what the dizziness would be to\\ndare to look down. Presently my gaze was\\nfixed by one just in front of me. There was", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0385.jp2"}, "386": {"fulltext": "324 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS.\\na monstrous fissure in which, carved as it\\nwere, was a giant knee, slightly crooked or\\nbent. Years before I had read the anecdote\\nabout Cuvier; his positive conviction and as-\\nsertion that fossil man would be found, and his\\nreply when asked from time to time, **pas en-\\ncore/* I exclaimed under my breath Why,\\nthere is Cuvier^s fossil man/ In a breath I\\nwas in a subterranean chamber of vast propor-\\ntions, with lofty ceiling and octagonal in shape.\\nThe walls were studded with the richest jewels,\\nand it was lighted by a soft yet clear radiance\\nan opaline mist of exquisite tints. At intervals\\nwere placed large caskets on pedestals, these,\\ntoo, incrusted with gems.\\nOn my approaching, in succession, one after\\nanother, some unseen agency lifted each cover,\\nrevealing all the most celebrated stones I had\\never read of. The Kohinoor lay in a dull mass\\non a velvet cushion. The green diamond\\nflashed into tempered light. Orlaff shone as it\\nmight have if it ever was the eye of an Indian\\nidol. The Regent blazed till I could look no\\nlonger. Suddenly such a lovely brilliant ^*Oh!\\nthis is the Great Rosy diamond of the fairy story\\nI read so long ago! I cried, bending over\\neagarly. To find myself seated on a throne", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0386.jp2"}, "387": {"fulltext": "A VISION OF FATIGUE. 325\\nof mother-of-pearl, and being borne onward by\\nsome invisible force, swift as light, through an\\narcade of sea-shells. Why, this is like Bayard\\nTaylor^s arcade of rainbows as beautiful as\\nbeautiful I commented. Shells such as I had\\nnever seen, different in shape, color and luster,\\nbut uniform in size, were fitted together from a\\nheight far overhead to a depth far below. On\\nand on, dazzled, enchanted, bewildered, yet com-\\nmenting without pause, till I was gazing, trans-\\nfixed, on such a spectacle as would have lifted\\nthe apocalyptic John into the Seventh Heaven\\nThen rose before me Jerusalem on its hill,\\nthe holy city of the Jews, with its sacred temple,\\nthe city of the Crusades, the city of pilgrimages,\\nthe city of the New Testament. And beyond\\nand above it, the heavens were opened, and the\\nNew Jerusalem was revealed in all the glory\\nof its prophecies, traditions and beliefs. The\\nPromise and the Fulfillment I Awe-struck, al-\\nmost blinded, I was gazing from one to the\\nother, saying to myself How can I ever de-\\nscribe what I have seen? How explain it?\\nWhere find words to express it? There is\\nnothing, nothing, I can compare it to or with\\nA repeated tapping at my door, which I\\nheard but could make no response to. Then I", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0387.jp2"}, "388": {"fulltext": "326 BY-GONE TOURIST DAYS,\\nknew the maid had gone away. Presently^\\nanother rap; then the door unclosed and my\\nname called; finally, a touch and gentle shaking\\nroused me as if from a nightmare. It was half-\\npast two. I had not lost consciousness for a\\nmoment, but I had not moved or spoken aloud.\\nWhen I described the above to a learned friend,\\nhe said it was caused by the preceding extreme\\nfatigue. I accepted the explanation.", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0388.jp2"}, "389": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0389.jp2"}, "390": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0390.jp2"}, "391": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0391.jp2"}, "392": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0392.jp2"}, "393": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0393.jp2"}, "394": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0394.jp2"}, "395": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3071", "width": "1893", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0395.jp2"}, "396": {"fulltext": "iilSllllMIIII CONGRESsT]\\n020 677 583 A", "height": "3266", "width": "2018", "jp2-path": "bygonetouristday00coll_0396.jp2"}}