{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2956", "width": "1929", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "V^^^/ ^^?W?** /X %^K*^\\nV^\\nfc", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "av 3^\\ni^^\\n^09\\n,40,\\nW^y V^V V^*/\\n,0", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "Digitized by the Internet Archive\\nin 2011 with funding from\\nThe Library of Congress\\nhttp://www.archive.org/details/onewomanwanderinOOharm", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN-\\nWANDERING.\\nOR\\nEUKOPE ON LIMITED MEANS.\\nBY\\nMARION FLOWER HICKS HARMON.\\noinoinnati\\nThe Editor Publishing Company\\n1899", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "TWO COPIES HECSIVEO.\\nLibrary cf CCKgp esi\u00c2\u00bb\\nJAM ^9 1900\\nRegister of Copyrfghtfe\\n5419?\\nCopyright\\nThe Editor Publishing Company\\n^C\\\\ SECOND COPY,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "TO THE LONE ONES IN THE LAND,\\nESPECIALLY TO THE\\nSOLITARY SISTERS,\\nIS THIS\\nVOLUME\\nCORDIALLY DEDICATED.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nChapter I. Going Abroad. .1\\nHow one lone woman decided to go\\nabroad. Foreign exchange and letters of\\ncredit.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The steamer moves.\\nChapter II. On the Ocean. ]4\\nA means of preventing sea-sickness;\\nSuitable outfit for voyage. Claiming and\\nexchange of luggage.\\nChapter III. At Le Havre. 28\\nFirst impressions on landing.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Hotel\\nFrascati.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 ^i\u00c2\u00abe de Paris. Place Gambetta.\\nChapter IV. Characteristics op France. 33\\nFeatures of the country. The Seine.\\nRouen.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Within the walls of Paris.\\nChapter V. At Paris. 41\\nThe Hotel St. Lazare. Prices at liotels\\nand restaurants. Desirability of knowledge\\nof foreign currencies.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Friendly suggestions\\nto the lone sister\\nChapter VI. A New Home. 50\\nChapel St. Ferdinand. Features of my\\nchamber.\\nChapter VII. Exploring Paris. 57\\nStrange customs, garbs and persons.\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nMilitary pomp. Reflections at St. Cloud,\\nSt. Germain and Versailles.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "ii CONTENTS.\\nChapter VIII. The Carnival. 67\\nFestive streets and people. Comparison\\nwith New Orleans carnival.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Parisian\\nSunday.\\nChapter IX. Funerals. 73\\nSombre display at the Madeleine. \u00e2\u0080\u0094Jewish\\nCemetery. Distinguished dead.\\nChapter X. Sights and Scenes. 86\\nQuaint old localities.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The antique Hotel\\nde Cluny.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Savonnerle.\\nChapter XI. Change of Quarters. 100\\nInner court of No. 70. Paris of to-day,\\nand its tumultuous past.\\nChapter XII. Leaving Paris. 107\\nA French second-class compartment.\\nThe Belgian frontier. Arrival at Cologne.\\nChapter XIII. German Folk. 119\\nMy room in Cologne.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 T/ie Domhild. The\\nRingstrassen. An evening stroll.\\nChapter XIV. To Duesseldorp. 134\\nCountry grows picturesque. More about\\nthe trainmen.\\nChapter XV. Hanover. 146\\nA language lesson.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some special Amer-\\nican errors.\\nChapter XVI. About Hanover. 158\\nThe Royal Palace. Royal Theater.\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nKestner Museum.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Soldiers Monument.\\nChapter XVII. Hanover Relics. 158\\nOld graveyards. Goethe s Lotta.\\nStrange police regulatioas.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. iij\\nChapter XVIII. Hildersham. 165\\nIts antiquity and importance.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Ctiarm-\\ning old towi).\\nChapter XIX. Wandering On. 176\\nPicturesque little towns. Region of myth\\nand mystery.\\nChapter XX. To the Brocken. 184\\nThe witches altar and the devil s pulpit.\\nReturn to Blank enburg.\\nChapter XXI. The Bode. 188\\nPastoral landscape. Modern customs\\nand conveniences.\\nChapter XXII. Berlin. 192\\nIts situation and importance. Art col-\\nlections. Intramural transportation.\\nChapter XXIII. To Potsdam. 206\\nLocation and prominence of Potsdam.\\nFamous Tombs.\\nChapter XXIV. Dresden, 212\\nPitiable condition of the women. Points\\nof interest. National music. Dresden\\nChina.\\nChapter XXV. Saxon Switzerland. 221\\nCrossing the Elbe in a row-boat. The\\nquaint village of Wehlen.\\nChapter XXVI. Leipsic. 229\\nIts book trade. Relics of the battles of\\nLeipsic\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Monuments.\\nChapter XXVII. To Frankfort. 237\\nOld castles. Valley of the Fulda.\\nEarly origin of Frankfort. Frankfort s\\nfortunes.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "iv CONTENTS.\\nChaptee XXVIII. Heidelbeijg. 24G\\nThe castle and its history. Keidelberg\\nUniversity. The view at mooiirise.\\nChapter XXIX. To Lucerne. 2r;l\\nA wonderful country. Queer old paint-\\nings.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Ijion of Lucerne.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The (Hacier\\nGarden.\\nChapter XXX. The Alps. 261\\nLocale of Wilhelm Tell.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Schiller s me-\\nmorial. \u00e2\u0080\u0094Wonderful highways.\\nChapter XXXI. The Rigi. 200\\nTroublesome luggage regulations. An\\nAlpine garden. -Through nature to na-\\nture s God.\\nChapter XXXII. Goleau. 280\\nA tremendous Landslip. The Lake\\nDwellers.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Hans Waldman s fate.\\nChapter XXXIII. Mainz. 2S7\\nGeneral features. Eaths and cures.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Le-\\ngarding German goods.\\nChapter XXXIV. A Rhine Journey. 298\\nRenewed warning to the lone one\\nThe most interesting river in the world.\\nChapter XXXV. Holland 318\\nThe dyke-defended land.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Dutch money.\\nA Dutch dog fight.\\nChapter XXXVI Vlissingen. 325\\nWandering in earnest.- A trip to Middle-\\nbourg.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Forward to England\\nChapter XXXVII. Finis. 8:52", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nCHAPTER I.\\nNot because I was especially fitted either by-\\nnature education or habit, to paddle my own\\ncanoe, not because I had no desire for, or any\\nobjection to, a compagnon du voyage, did I sud-\\ndenly determine last year to venture forth alone\\ninto the rushing tide of foreign travel that has of\\nlate periods set so strongly toward the Old\\nWorld. But like many another woman I had been\\nbereft of all that life and love hold dear, and at a\\nmature age was left stranded solitary, with a\\nslender though assured provision for that future\\nwhich now stretched blankly before me. What\\ncould so completely occupy my attention and\\nemploy my energies as a trip abroad?\\nBut was this among the possibilities? No\\nties had I to bind me here or elsewhere no\\nhousehold to maintain in my absence no reason\\nwhy the modest sum necessary for my personal\\nexpenses should not be expended abroad instead\\nof in my native land. Would this be sufficient?\\nI began to investigate.\\nMy first step was to write to various Tourist\\nAgencies, whose name is legion, requesting such\\ninformation as each could furnish concerning\\nroutes, rates, outfits, and the like. I may say\\nin passing that I ever received most courteous\\nattention to my inquiries. I thus accumulated", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "2 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\na mass of material much of which was valuable,\\nand my vague design began to take form and\\nsubstance before me. My little fund would take\\nme across, provide for my return in case of emer-\\ngency, and keep me in unpretending comfort\\nuntil I could receive supplies from home. But\\nI must go alone I could pay no companion or\\nguide. True, there were several excursions ad-\\nvertised to which my available cash would ad-\\nmit me as a member, but these were of but two\\nor three months duration and seemed to consist\\nof one grand scramble from beginning to end,\\nin making trains and taking wildly hurried\\nglimpses of a few noted scenes and masterpieces.\\nSo I came to the conclusion that one could see\\nand learn most by traveling independently, thus\\nbeing hampered by no contracts or limits as to\\ntime and place. Could I do this all by myself,\\nin a foreign land amid a foreign tongue, I who\\nhad lived all my life in the seclusion and pro-\\ntection of the home-circle? But the dear home-\\ncircle was forever vanished. Life was ended\\nalong that line. Wherever I might be I was\\nalone and must live inexpensively, I was al-\\nready fairly familiar with my own land. In\\nEurope even commonplace environments would\\nbe new and interesting to me. I would go.\\nI did go and for many months wandered alone\\nbut safely through storied scenes and classic\\nshades of varied beauty and interest, returning\\nat last with a host of delightful recollections to be-\\nguile many an otherwise weary day, and with the\\nresolve to promulgate as far as possible among\\nthe lone sisters in my own country, such prac-\\ntical knowledge of ways and means as I ac-\\nquired myself in my journeyings, so that any\\none of them, finding through untoward events\\nthat the days are dark and dreary, might", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 3\\nfeel it possible to take ter courage in her hands\\nand go and do likewise. And so I begin my\\nrecord.\\nIn almost any town of a few thousand inhab-\\nitants one may purchase a through ticket of the\\nprincipal Steamship Companies, to almost any\\npoint abroad, I, however, took my ticket from\\none of the Tourist Agencies in order tliat I\\nmight feel at liberty to call upon the local office\\nwherever I might be, for protection or advice,\\nhave the benefit of its banking facilities, bureaus\\nof information and the like. This idea proved\\nall right in the main, but at first, as I shall ex-\\nplain later, I had reason to believe that all my\\nprovisions in these respects were as unsubstantial\\nas the baseless fabric of a dream. I did not take\\na passport as there are few European countries\\nwhere they are essential, but in the light of my\\nlater experience, I should take one if going\\nagain, on account of the convenience as a\\nmeans of identification when such becomes nec-\\nessary. The cost, I believe is two dollars.\\nThe Agency of which I finally bought my\\ntickets, as an inducement for me to do so,\\npromised to have a man meet me in Chicago to\\ngive me all necessary aid in transfer, my start-\\ning point was about seven hours distant, and\\nanother man at the New York terminus to take\\ncharge of myself and luggage, and to see that\\nit and I were safely placed on board the steam-\\nship in good order and at no extra charge unless\\nin the way of monetary exchange. These prom-\\nises gave me great satisfaction, and it was well\\nthat they did, for it was all I had inasmuch as,\\nso far as attendance was concerned, this Agency,\\nI will not, as I might, take so cruel a revenge\\nupon it as to publish its name abroad, almost\\nentirely failed to make good its engagements.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "4 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nI descended from the train in Chicago, bag in\\nhand, refusing offered attendance as I supposed\\nI was provided for; but, trudging along over the\\nlong platform to the transfer buses, no sign of\\na tourist agent did I see. Inquiries right and\\nleft were of no avail. There was only one hour\\nand three quarters between trains, but, though\\nmy ticket included transfer through Chicago I\\ncould not go directly on, because my money had\\nnot yet been converted into foreign funds, and I\\nhad still much promised instruction to receive.\\nAfter a moment of indecision I took a bus to\\nthe Agency.\\nPerhaps my inexperienced countrywoman would\\nlike to learn that in Chicago all authorized trans-\\nference facilities are in the hands of one organi-\\nzation, the Parmelee Line. In purchasing tickets\\nthat necessitate a change in Chicago, one should\\nstipulate for a transfer coupon. Then, on pre-\\nsenting the same to any of Parmelee s men, who\\nare always on hand, one has no ditficulty in find-\\ning one s proper conveyance. On my doing this\\nand stating that I wished to interview my tourist\\nagent before going to the other station, the at-\\ntendant kindly informed me that he would drop\\nme at the right place en route. This he did, but\\nby stopping I was of course obliged to lose the\\nbenefit of my coupon, besides having all the\\nbother and uncertainty of looking up the\\nagent.\\nBut I found and sternly confronted him with\\nmy demand for advice and exchange. The of-\\nficial had the grace to seem surprised at my\\nappearing there alone, and tried to explain that\\na man had been sent to meet me but probably\\nhad got a little behind time.\\nMinutes were precious and I wasted none in\\nreproaches but proceeded to business. The agent", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 5\\nrecommended putting the most of my funds in\\ncircular notes of English money, as available to\\nbe cashed in any foreign currency on presenting\\na letter of identificition which he also gave me,\\nat any place where I should be likely to go.\\nReserving enough of the balance to provide\\nfor my expenditures to and in New York City,\\nhe put the remainder into French money as I\\nwas sailing on a French ship to a French port.\\nAt this date, an American, or rather, a United\\nStates dollar was worth a little more than five\\nFrench francs, four German tnarken, or four\\nEnglish shillings. Here let me warn my unso-\\nphisticated sister against ever confusing the Eng-\\nlish shilling with the value recognized under\\nthat name in the United States. The United\\nStates shilling is simply unheard of and un-\\nknown abroad, (as it ought to be at home for it\\ndoes not exist in our money table and where-\\never the term shilling is used it always, without\\nexception, signifies the English shilling of\\ntwelve pence or twenty-four United States\\ncents. I mention this because I saw so many\\ncases where unfortunate Americans were hope-\\nlessly confused on account of persisting in using\\nthe term shilling to represent twelve and a half\\ncents, to the great mystification of their foreign\\nhearers.\\nRegarding exchange and letters of credit, any\\nbanker would do the service quite as well as a\\nTourist Agency, and in many cases it might be\\npreferable to have it done at home by one s ac-\\nquaintances ;but,going alone as I was, I deemed\\nit better, as I mentioned before, to have as much\\nclaim as possible on the attention of some well-\\nknown corporation as easily accessible abroad\\nas at home. But all this is a matter of expe-\\ndiency.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "6 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nI made particular inquiries of the agent, as to\\nhow to escape in New York the difficulties that\\nhad presented themselves in Chicago, as in New\\nYork I should be more helpless, never having\\nembarked for a foreign tour and not knowing-\\njust what to do, nor even whether a woman\\nalone would be capable of doing everything. But\\nI was assured there was no possibility of my\\nmissing their man there, that the Company had\\nmen in uniform with the name of the\\nAgency in large letters, to meet all trains, that\\nI could not fail to see them, that everybody\\nknew the agency-men, and moreover they had\\nbeen advised to look out for me, and so on. So\\nI departed comforted, with a man, in this in-\\nstance a nice, friendly lad, detailed to put me\\non the New York train, see to my sleeper and so\\nforth, all of which he did politely and efficient-\\nly, and I was soon rolling away toward New\\nYork.\\nThe hours went on night came and went and\\nthe darkness of the second evening closed in\\nupon us, for not until eight P. M., were we\\nwithin the confines of the great city. A bag-\\ngage-man appeared as on all through trains\\nnearing a terminus, to whom one may give one s\\nchecks with perfect safety, receiving a claim-\\nticket in return and soon my luggage would be\\non its way to the steamer-docks where I would\\nfind it in the morning.\\nAt eight forty-five, we stopped in the Grand\\nCentral Station of New York City. I walked\\nout confidently expecting to be accosted at once\\nby my promised messenger but, alas, he did not\\nmaterialize. I looked about here and there, back-\\nward and forward, right and left, in fact in every\\ndirection except heavenward, which last, in con-\\nsideration of the nature of my past experiences,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 7\\nseemed futile to do, but no one did I see who\\nhad apparently the least concern as to my wel-\\nfare. No uniformed men except the trainmen\\nand the red-capped porters, all of whom declared\\ntotal ignorance concerning the agency-men, did\\nnot even know their uniform such also was the\\nresult of my inquiries in the waiting rooms and\\nat the Bureau of Information. The fact was\\nthat I had simply been allowed to arrive with no\\nattention provided whatever. I dwell upon this\\npoint because the Agency had been so lavish in\\nits proffers and promises both verbal and\\nwritten, that I had had no anxiet} whatever on\\nleaving home, and had I not been warned by my\\nexperience in Chicago, should have relied on\\nthem implicitly. And I feel moved to declare\\nthat I consider the Agency s course as a culpa-\\nble breach of confidence, from which the conse-\\nquences in the case of an unaccustomed traveler,\\na lady, arriving alone at night in this great,\\nmodern Babel, might have been deplorable in ner-\\nvous strain if nothing more. I will say that, some\\nmonths later, I received a most polite letter of\\nregret and apology from the Agency, but this,\\nthough gratifying, hardly served to atone for\\nthe neglect. Fortunately for me, I was in a\\nmeasure familiar with the place, so I picked up\\nmy satchel and went across the street to a well-\\nknown hotel where I obtained a comfortable\\nroom on the parlor floor at one dollar a day\\nwithout meals. In the restaurant attached, one\\nmay consider one s purse in ordering from the\\nmenu. The rates seem high to a resident of a\\ntown of thirty thousand inhabitants, and if one\\nis desirous of keeping expenses down still far-\\nther, one may go out across the street to a most\\nattractively bright and clean eating-house,\\nwhere wholesome and appetizing food is served", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "8 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nat surprisingly moderate charges. All this for\\nthe benefit of that lone sister whom I have\\nin my mind s eye in writing these lines.\\nAt the hotel I tried to telephone the Tourist\\nAgency. Office closed for the night, was\\nthe report, so I betook me to my couch thinking\\nI should certainly get word in the morning- Of\\ncourse city offices are rarely open before nine,\\nA. M,, but as the next was a -sailing morning\\nthe hotel manager thought I would find the\\nagency men on hand early. So I tried at seven,\\nA. M. Closed. The steamer was to sail at\\nten and I was I knew not how far away. At\\nany rate all the way from Forty-second street\\nzigzaggedly across the city to Morton s Pier.\\nNo use to go personally to the office as it was\\nclosed. The hotel manager was kind and inter-\\nested and gave me as good advice as he pos-\\nsessed, but of course he could not speak with\\nauthority. Finally, partly because time was\\nslipping away and partly because, in classic\\nphrase, my spunk was up, I decided that if\\nworst had come to worst, I was equal to the\\nemergency of getting off for Europe alone, or\\nanywhere else, and that no effete tourist agent\\nshould, by his indifference or inefficiency, com-\\npel me to lose my passage, nor entail upon me\\nunneccessary additional expense. So, as econ-\\nomy was the order of the day, I did not even call\\na cab bub boarded a Fourth Avenue car. I knew\\nmy way pretty well and was burdened only with\\nmy handbag.\\nAt Fourteenth Street I took a transfer to the\\npier. When I presented my ticket to the trans-\\nfer-man he vociferated violently and offensively,\\nas if 1 were offering him a personal insult, That\\nhain t no good Yer gotto pay another fare I\\nwas not at all appalled at his demeanor nor did", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WONDERING 9\\nI lose my head or temper, though it certainly\\nwas not my fault that I had a wrong transfer\\nnor had I objected to paying a second fare\\nthough entitled to transfer. I do not under-\\nstand why these street-car employes are so ready\\nto deem that a gentlewoman in appearance and\\nspeech deserves brow beating and crushing when\\nshe is merely trying to follow the routine of the\\nroad so far as she comprehends it; but such is\\ntoo frequently the case and I only mention it\\nhere and my reception of the same, as a possible\\naid to the solitary sister when she will a- wan-\\ndering go. I let the fellow expend his rude-\\nness without remonstrance and when he had\\nquite ceased speaking I civilly asked him to\\nkindly show me which car to take; he had evi-\\ndently keyed himself up to receive a torrent of\\nexpostulation on my part, and when none came\\nhe seemed dazed for a moment, then acceded to\\nmy request in a manner comparatively calm, and\\nI went on slowly but surely toward Morton Pier.\\nI was the sole passenger when the car reached\\nthe end of the route and here it was my good\\nfortune to encounter so kind and gentlemanly a\\nyoung man, albeit in the guise of a conductor,\\nthat I almost felt like forgiving the before-men-\\ntioned surly brute in consideration of his being\\na co-employe of this young man. Of course he\\ncould not leave his car but he pointed out where\\nI must go and told me just what to do and was\\nso interesting and painstaking that if we had\\nbeen, as I was la er, in a foreign land, I should\\nhave tipped him well for his civility; as it\\nwas, I would not insult his manhood by offering\\nto pay him for being polite to a woman.\\nIt was now nine o clock. Steamer to sail at\\nten. I rushed across the tracks, before and be-\\nhind cars, carts and quadrupeds, ignoring the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "10 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsurprised glances of everybody at seeing a wan-\\ndering woman dashing about utterly unattended\\nin that busy and hubbubby place. I felt a sort\\nof unholy glee in getting on so independently of\\nthat faithless agency man, who was probably at\\nthis moment reading his morning paper and\\ntoasting his toes at ease before his fire, imagin-\\ning that I must await his pleasure. I made my\\nway into the great building placarded, Com-\\npagnie General Atlantique, where my smattering\\nof French enabled me to read the signs and labels\\nabout, and I was able with few questions to get\\nmy luggage, send it aboard by means of three\\nmen whom I paid twenty-five cents each, (which\\npayment I afterward learned was entirely unex-\\npected and unnecessary,) and finally I walked\\nup the gang-plank myself and stood apon the\\ndeck of La Cha^njiagne.\\nI have thus detailed these trivial incidents,\\nnot because of their interest but to give the\\ninexperienced sister some idea of transporta-\\ntion at small expense. I rather enjoyed it on\\nthe whole, but if the sister is timid or ner-\\nvous, she would better take a cab for the pier,\\nat her hotel door. Rates are high and though\\nthe hotel manager will procure for one a trusty\\ndriver, it is quite necessary to have an explicit\\nunderstanding as to terms, before one starts.\\nI will not deny that emotions of new and\\nvaried sorts filled my breast as I looked down\\nfrom the deck upon the swaying crowds, the\\ninfinite diversity of faces and figures, the cabs\\ncoming and going, the incessant stream of ladies,\\ngentlemen, porters, seamen, children, dogs and\\nso forth, passing and repassing up and down the\\nplank, and heard the continually repeated\\nscreeching of whistles and jangling of bells\\nmingled with shouts and cries, with the rush", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 11\\nand roll of carriage and cart, of barrel and cask,\\nthe dumping and th ud of box and bale and\\nchest and all the innumerable stock and store of\\na ship s cargo, and reflected that I had suc-\\nceeded in getting there all on my own re-\\nsponsibility. And I began to felicitate myself\\nthat I alone had attended to everything and still\\nhad plenty of time. Then I noticed a party\\ncoming up with bags and bundles and steamer\\nchairs.\\nScissors and teapots I had forgotten my\\nsteamer- chair A glance at my watch, nine\\ntw.enty-five, steamer sails at ten Back again\\ndown the plank a mad rush for the bureau a\\nwild demand in impossible French for the de-\\nsired article. Rent, a United States dollaire\\nfor the round trip, No money but French oflFer\\na five /rcmc piece supposing it an equivalent\\nrejected as not enough nothing else but gold\\nfrantically hold out a handful, whereupon the\\ncommissionaire takes pity on me and pushes it\\nback, accepting my silver piece and kindly say-\\ning in broken English: Teez owanlee troah\\nsonts, navaire mynde. Whereby I learn that\\nthe current value of a five franc piece at the\\nBureau Transatlantique, IB ninety-seven cents;\\nthough if you offer a dollar for something valued\\nat five francs, you get no change in return.\\nI hurriedly gave the man my name and sped\\nback. Again looked at my watch nine fifty.\\nPlenty of time and everything really ready at\\nlast. Later on I find myself transformed by the\\nlabel on my chair, into Madame Heexheimer.\\nI may as well say here that this expense of a\\nchair was in my case entirely unnecessary. It\\nbeing winter, there was no especial temptation\\nto sit on deck, as if one wished to be outside it\\nwas much pleasanter to move about. Moreover", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "12 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthere were plenty of benches on deck if one\\nchose to sit. I used my chair but twice, and\\nthen only because I thought it the regulation\\nthing to do. As I had not decided to return by\\nthis line, I lost the benefit of my round trip pay-\\nment and by engaging a chair I became liable to\\nthe deck-steward for a fee, whether service were\\nrendered or not.\\nIn summer, when there are many passengers\\nand the weather is fine, a chair may be most de-\\nsirable, but in this instance I might have made\\na clear savirg of at least two dollars had I been\\nfamiliar with the situation. I may note here\\nalso that since my outward bound passage, there\\nhas been a change in the method of renting\\nthese chairs and one now must pay a dollar a\\nvoyage instead of for round trip, as before. All\\nof which I commend to the consideration of my\\nimaginary lone woman.\\nAnd now it is ten o clock and the great\\nsteamer begins to quiver. We all know the\\nccuplet\\nShe moves, she stirs, phe seems to feel\\nA thrill of life along her keel\\nand a dozen other lines as apropos will spring to\\nmind. The little tug was noisily doing its duty.\\nThe pier was a sea of upturned faces and wav-\\ning handkerchiefs.\\nGood-bye!\\nAdieu!\\nLehewohlP\\nGood luck to you!\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0Boil voyage f\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0Glueckliche Reise!\\nSome were laughing, some were in tears, all\\nwere excited, and a responsive throng on deck\\ngave back farewell, smile and tear.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 13\\nI stood apart. I was alone. The good-byes\\nand good wishes were not for me. No one there\\nknew of me. It was rather a melancholy\\nthought and yet there was a bright gleam of\\nsatisfaction in the reflection that, being there\\nthus alone and by my own unaided efforts, I was\\nunder no sort of an obligation to waft even the\\nmost formal of farewells to that inert and ever\\nelusive tourist agent.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II.\\nAt last we were abroad upon the mighty deep.\\nGradually we had made our way out from the\\nslips, piers and docks and from the crowds of\\nshipping of every description and nationality.\\nOut away from the marvelous span of Brooklyn\\nBridge and from the majestic statue towering\\nabove the busy harbor and forever lifting toward\\nhigh heaven the deathless torch of liberty. Out\\naway between shores wharf-lined and covered as\\nfar as eye could reach with street on street of\\nstructure, lofty and low, proud and plebeian,\\nrich and wretched, and permeated everywhere\\nby seemingly the same restless, rushing, hurry-\\ning throng, until by and by the fields and hedge-\\nrows began to appear, pervaded even now with\\na faint, subtile shade of green soon we passed\\nthe various isles that dot the harbor, the old\\nfort on Staten Island standing out phenomenally\\ndistinct, and then suddenly the fog closes in and\\nshuts out all the world. Reluctantly we aban-\\ndon our posts of outlook and pass inside to make\\nacquaintance with that interior where we shall\\neat, drink and sleep for so many days.\\nSurprising indeed is the spectacle we behold.\\nAll is bewilderment and confusion. Everybody\\nseems to be in every other body s way. The\\npoor people in the steerage, of whom we get\\noccasional glimpses in our present futile at-\\ntempts to find out where we are at, are hud-\\ndled together amid their forlorn bits of things,\\nlike a flock of frightened sheep and look sad\\nand pitiable. The second-cabiners are as yet un-\\n14", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 15\\nseparated from the first; everyone is more or\\nless unsettled, even the old stagers, or should\\nI say shippers? to whom a sea voyage is but\\nthe veriest episode. Shouts and commands in a\\nforeign tongue and the inability of the ship s\\ncompany to understand our American French,\\nadd to the general distraction. We find later\\nthat most of the crew speak good English, but\\nthis fact has not as yet dawned upon our per-\\nturbed brains. Bags and bundles of all sorts\\nare heaped in apparently inextricable disorder,\\nlaying traps for unwary feet. Dogs and chil-\\ndren are trotting about astray and lifting their\\nseveral voices in howls in various keys and of\\nvarying intensity. Birds, large and small, are\\nshrieking in dismay from divers and sundry\\ncages, and amid all is heard the thud, thud of\\nthe steamer s machinery as it steadily beats out\\nthe revolutions that, God guiding, shall pause\\nnot nor delay till we reach the strange shores so\\nfar distant.\\nAs a temporary diversion the cabin passengers\\nare very soon summoned to an informal luncheon\\nwhile the ship s force indefatigably toils to\\nbring order out of chaos. And here may I cau-\\ntion my unsophisticated solitary sister, as a\\npossible preventive of sea-sickness, to partake\\nsparingly through the first day at least, of the\\nabundant and tempting fare provided on the\\ngreat ocean-liners?\\nThe striking of deep water is usually the\\ncrucial test of one s powers as a good sailor,\\nand one who escapes this ordeal will probably\\npass along almost unaffected to the other side.\\nThe work goes untiringly on wandering mor-\\ntals find their cabins weeping women are con-\\nsoled and irate men pacified; timid passengers\\nare encouraged, while stray children and pets", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "16 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nreach their proper owners, and at last, by the\\ntime the electric lights leap forth and we are\\nbidden to our evening meal, a semblance at\\nleast of order and regularity reigns in the bril-\\nliant dining-room, or salle-d-manyer, as we are\\ntaught to consider it. The western continent\\nhas dropped below the horizon and we begin\\nreally and truly to be rocked in the cradle of the\\ndeep.\\nThe first day out, as customary, we were each\\nassigned a seat at table, and given a sail-\\ning list. Here I found I had undergone another\\ntransformation and was now figuring as Mr.\\nHanson. Others, however, had similar surprises\\nand it was like solving a puzzle to find out\\nwhich name belonged to whom, and what it\\nreally should be instead of what it was. Differ-\\nent ships have different methods of arrang-\\ning the sittings at table. On La Champagne,\\na very polite steward called at each stateroom\\ndoor and asked if the occupants thereof had any\\nchoice as to seats if so, they were gratified if\\npossible, and to each person was handed a card\\nwith a number corresponding to that on his\\nchair at table.\\nAt my table are a Ji Z/e.H.,of New York City,\\nwhose name is not on the list at all, a Mr. and\\nMrs. M.,of Berkeley, California, and a Senor U.,\\nof Le Havre. Mile. H. and Mr. M. speak both\\nFrench and English; Mrs. M., only English;\\nSenor U., Spanish and French, so when we are\\nall there we manage to keep up quite a continu-\\nous conversation, the learned ones interpreting\\nfor the less so. Scarcely anyone on a French\\nsteamer appears before c/eyeM\u00c2\u00bber( pronounced\\ndeh-zhoon-eh, with no accent, )a sort of\\nheavy luncheon about eleven o clock. The first\\nrepast is truly a break-fast, being but a roll", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 17\\nwithout butter, and a cup of coffee with milk,\\nserved usually in one s cabin before one rises.\\nThere is, I understand, a meal called the Amer-\\nican breakfast, provided for such incorrigible\\nnatives as are unable to fall into foreign ways,\\nbut this is alien to the general atmosphere; in-\\ndividually, I took very kindly to the custom of\\nkeeping my berth until the first warning bell\\nsounded half an hour before dejeumer.\\nIt so chanced that Senor U. and myself usu-\\nally appeared first at our table and frequently\\nfinished our meal before any of our table-mates\\ncame in. As he spoke neither English nor Ger-\\nman and I had no Spanish and but a smattering\\nof French, and as the politeness of his nation-\\nality, I suppose, would not permit him to sit in\\na lady s presence with no effort to entertain her,\\nmany desperate attempts were made by us to\\nevolve some method of communication but it\\nall resolved mainly into an assiduous offering of\\neach to the other of whatever was within our\\nreach, accompanied by a series of nods and\\nbecks and wreathed smiles whenever one\\ncaught the other s eyes. I shall always remem-\\nber him as a most painfully courteous man, and\\nI dare sa}- he will long recollect his arduous en-\\ndeavors in my behalf.\\nThe table was excellent, served carefully in\\nFrench table d hote style, that is, only one thing\\nat a time, which I do not like, as I prefer\\nmy meat with my vegetables. Also I like butter\\non my bread and cream in my tea and coffee,\\nwhich preferences astonish the French caterer.\\nIf he serves you with butter at all it is unsalted\\nand given you upon a plate the size of the ordi-\\nnary dinner-plate. If you insist on cream with\\nyour coffee, he brings you a concoction which\\nhe calls \u00e2\u0096\u00a0cafe-au-laW wherein the milk which", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "18 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ndoes duty as cream, is boiled with the coffee, and\\nwith it he brings a tablespoon; I verily believe\\nthe French consider it a sort of soup. And as\\nto tea, the drinking of it at all seems to be con-\\nceived as springing from a mild aberration of\\nthe English and the American mind, and one is\\nlooked upon Math surprise, not to say suspicion,\\nif one declines the cognac that is always brought\\noil with it and the tiny cup of black 2 )ffee\\nserved at the close of dinner. Then again, I do\\nnot like wine of any sort as a beverage, especially\\nthe thin, sour vin ordinaire that is so universal\\nand tastes very like poor vinegar. Nor am I es-\\npecially fond of the cheeses and sauces which\\nare served so abundantly, but of course all this\\nsoon becomes a matter of custom.\\nIt seemed odd to have knife, fork and plate\\nremoved with each article of food. 1 will not\\ndeny having been accustomed to the ordinary\\nchanges between courses, but the fashion of\\nhaving as many plates, knives and forks as there\\nare articles on the bill of fare, was new to me.\\nNor did I ever before see ice-cream made into\\na large roll, like butter, and passed about on a\\nplatter, each person helping himself and being\\nprovided with a desert spoon for consuming it.\\nI do not remember ever before having seen snails\\non a 7nemi, sol thought I would try some. The\\ngaiyjon brought me a plateful apparently aunat-\\nurel in their shells and looking quite too aw-\\nfully snaily. He brought with them an imple-\\nment suggestive of Hamlet s bare bodkin, with\\nwhich oue is supposed to manipulate the shells\\nto get at their contents. I made one or two at-\\ntempts, then finally begged the waiter to pre-\\npare them for me, which he deftly did, bringing\\nthem back sans shells and looking exactly like\\na tiny mess o greens. I tasted them and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 19\\nfound them delicious! in spite of preconceived\\nprejudices.\\nOur dinners are qu ite long in course and served\\nabout seven in the evening. Lights are gener-\\nally extinguished in the salon about eleven; in\\nour staterooms we have the privilege, not always\\ngranted on ship-board, of turning the electricity\\noff and on to suit our convenience, but a plac-\\nard most politely vs^orded requests us to use our\\nillumination as sparingly as possible.\\nSo hour after hour goes on monotonously\\nenough, and day after day finds us, our little com-\\nmunit} of some four or five hundred souls, strug-\\ngling onward in this wide waste of waters where\\nfor days and nights we are encompassed by the\\nsame unchanging, impenetrable, white mist. The\\ngreat fog horn sounds at intervals of one min-\\nute, night and day. Once forth from out the\\ndarkness comes a response, but where away in\\nthat vast, outstretching region of cloud and\\nmist there rides another vessel, we have no means\\nof knowing. Strong head-winds that yet have\\nno perceptible effect on the density of the fog,\\nmake our progress difficult and slow.\\nThe huge waves roar ana rave and thunder\\naround, below and above us and beat at our\\nship s sides, but she is staunch and they do not\\nenter. At last, one night we hear an unusual\\nshock, the vessel shakes and shivers, settles\\nherself again, then quivers laterally and from\\nend to end. I feel sure that we have run down\\nsomething and, lying there in my snug cabin, I\\ntry to picture the scene without on the dark,\\ntoss^ing oee iti. But though there is some in-\\ncrease of hoarse commands and heavy, hurried\\nfootsteps above, 1 hear no alarm and address\\nmyself a^ain to sleep. In the morning we learn\\nthat we have lost a part of our screw and from", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "20 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthat time on, we have a sort of compound wiggle\\nand jiggle and jerk added to the ordinary roll and\\ntumble of a steamer in difficult seas, which is\\nrather too much for the equanimity of many of\\nour company. Our ship labors bravely on how-\\never and all is well save the inevitable cases\\nof mal-de-mer which one, of course, expects.\\nOur salle-d-manger is mostly deserted, by the\\nladies especially,\\nPersonally I escape all illness, which is a mat-\\nter of surprise and congratulation. Even while\\nthe steamer rises to meet the oncoming wave, or\\npitches downward into the trough of the bil-\\nlows, or rolls from side to side, am I able to\\nstand either above on deck or below at the port-\\nholtrs which are continually first plunged into\\nthe depths and then lifted dizzily aloft, and to\\ngaze out on the multitudinous seas as they\\nswell and sweep and wrestle and leap and break\\ninto feathery spray far heavenward, and to en-\\njoy the spectacle and marvel over its beauty.\\nAt length one evening we note that the\\ndead-lights are down and at dinner the ta-\\nbles are a network of racks and bars to keep the\\ndishes in place, which all betokens heavier\\nweather. We make inquiries and find we are\\nabout to enter the Devil s Hole, which is al-\\nways, as they term it, a nasty place. All\\nthis time we have scarcely seen the sun. Ever\\nthe same white, cottony fog, with the green\\nwaves breaking through to grin at us. I begin\\nto realize what it must have been when the\\nearth was without form and void. We are\\ntold that the voyage is always tiresome and dif-\\nficult at this time of the year until we get away\\nfrom the Banks of Newfoundland, not mean-\\ning the shores of that country but certain areas\\nof the ocean, after which we shall probably", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 21\\nhave smoother seas and fairer skies: and if we\\ncan only escape the clutches of His Satanic Ma-\\njesty while invading his Hole to night,\\nto-morrow we may hope for better things. So\\nwe go on and on and on.\\nDay comes again and we find we have left the\\nDevil behind us and by the next day the fog\\nlifts and the sun appears. Not long does he\\nbless us, however, for it comes on to rain, and\\nthus almost continually under cloud and storm\\ndo we make our passage. We see a steamer on\\na distant track and exchange salutes. We learn\\nmany days later that shortly after leaving us\\nshe encountered a waterspout which we barely\\nescaped. We have no excitement. We see no\\nwhales nor icebergs. There is little or nothing\\nto distinguish one point of time from another\\nexcept the daily posting of the ship s progress\\nin the main companion-way, and the setting for-\\nward of our watches forty minutes each noontide.\\nVery strange it seemed day after day to see\\nonly the same persons, to do only the same\\nthings and to move about only in the same\\nplaces. La Champagne is a very comfortable,\\nsomewhat luxurious, but not very modern vessel.\\nTo my surprise there is neither reading-room\\nnor library. I am told there is none on any of\\nthe French liners though a little cupboard on La\\nChamj)agne, containing perhaps fifty volumes of\\nFrench and English novels which one may pur-\\nchase at fifty cents each, is dignified by that\\nname. We are, of course, cut off from newspa-\\npers and it reaily becomes a matter of chaticy in\\none possessed of any sort of literature, to circu-\\nlate it among his or her needy neighbors.\\nJudging from my own experience and the dif-\\nficulty I had in obtaining really suitable and\\npractical suggestions regarding an outfit that", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "22 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nshould be sufficient but not superfluous, I fancy\\nmy imaginary woman and sister may desire\\nto Icnow something about what is necessary\\nfor such a journey as mine. Let her bear in\\nmind that a ship is tlie merest atom of light and\\nwarmth upon the awful ocean, and that the\\nocean is always cold. JMoreover, there forever\\ndo the winds their revels keep. I found, as\\nnearly every inexperienced ocean-traveler does\\nfind, that I took much more than I needed.\\nOne s traveling garb should be as heavy as one\\ncan wear without weariness. One will need in\\nwinter, leggins and overshoes and close, warm\\nunderclothing. Tights are almost indispensable.\\nA hot-water-bag is also very desirable. Along,\\nloose outer garment with hood attached and fur-\\nlined, is most convenient, as is also a similar\\ngarment or domino of light weight, likewise\\nwith hood, which one can wear about if one is\\nill, w^ithout troubling with hair-dressing. One\\nneeds a warm steamer-rug and one or two pri-\\nvate cushions are very comfortable. The rug\\nmay be represented perfectly by a large blanket-\\nshawl. Of course if one could count on never\\nbeing ill, many of these provisions would be\\nsuperfluous but on this point one can never be\\nassured and must prepare accordingly. If one\\nis ill, the quickest and usually the only way to\\nrecover is to be out on deck regardless of\\nweather or inclination. Frequently one must\\nbe carried above by stewards and placed com-\\nfortably and safely in a sheltered nook to let the\\ncold, pure sea-winds do their reviving work.\\nThe cabins at best are but stuffy places.\\nThere are none with but one berth and to one s\\nown distresses may be added the moving spec-\\ntacle of a room-mate in serious case. So I con-\\nsider full equipment for warmth and comfort on", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 23\\ndeck, to be a necessity, though thus far I have\\nnot needed it myself. My cabin held two berths,\\nbut on account of the season of the year, I was\\nable to occupy it alone, to my never-ceasing\\nthankfulness. I took my steamer-trunk, my\\ntwo grips and my roll of wraps into the cabin\\nwith me but I should never do so again. If I\\nhad had a room-mate, I do not know where her\\nthings could have rested. I find that one gets\\nout of one s cabin as soon as possible after ris-\\ning, and elaborate toilets are uncalled for.\\nPerhaps it is as well to have a light waist or two\\naccessible in case of an evening concert or other\\nentertainment, such as are frequently gotten up\\nif the voyage is reasonably pleasant. But the\\nwoman to whom I am specially addressing myself\\nis not going abroad to display her wardrobe, or as\\na little friend of mine once remarked, to cut a\\ngash, and I think she will be relieved to take\\nas little as possible. I have known ladies going\\nabroad for a summer vacation to take only a bi-\\ncycle dress and a traveling gown. The woman\\ntraveling with an escort, or a young girl prop-\\nerly chaperoned, might find it no trouble to have\\na little more variety, but it is not necessary and\\nsome question whether it be good taste. I learned\\nthe lesson to send in future everything unessen-\\ntial, to the hold.\\nBaths, of course, may be had on application\\nto the steward. While these are not extra in\\nthemselves, a tip is due to the attendant at the\\nend of the voyage. One may patronize the\\nsteamer hair-dresser or do one s locks one s self;\\nbut let me warn my sister with a bang, that\\nno hair-cur iing appliances are allowed in the\\ncabins, and when we consider what an unspeak-\\nable horror is a fire at sea, I know that none of\\nus will question the wisdom of this regulation.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "24 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nBesides the bath-room steward and the hair-\\ndresser, the other attendants on the usual ocean-\\nliner are the stewardess who will wait upon\\nyou if you desire but who does not attend to\\nyour cabin the bedroom steward, the deck stew-\\nard and the dining-room steward, that is your\\nspecial waiter at meals. A steamship is usually\\ndivided into sections, each of which has its own\\nretinue of servants. Id La Champagne^ a vessel\\nof eight thousand tons, there were two sections.\\nOf course a passenger is under no obligations as\\nto tips to those serving in any section but his\\nown. If one requires much service, one is sup-\\nposed to tip more liberally than otherwise, but\\nwhat has become an established custom so far\\nas I could learn, is to present one s stewardess,\\none s table steward and the deck steward each\\nwith about two dollars and a half on leaving the\\nship.\\nIn my case on La Chamiyagne, the stewardess\\nhad no occasion to perform any service whatso-\\never for me, but she received my tip on the morn-\\ning of debarkation with all the serenity of long-\\ntried and deserving merit.\\nAnd again in regard to one s outfit, let the\\nlone female also remember that in France\\nand other warm countries, the houses are\\ncold and damp though the outer air may be soft\\nand mild, so that it becomes more essential than\\nwith us, to dress warmly within doors, particu-\\nlarly at night. A warm bedroom-gown and\\nslippers are really a necessity the greater part\\nof the year.\\nOf course I do not learn all these items at\\nonce, but as I go along; if they lighten up the\\nmatter for any who may come after me, I shall\\nbe well pleased.\\nBut we were getting on, and lo one evening.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 25\\naway off over the heavy expanse of waters could\\nbe seen a tiny gleam of light that alternately\\nshone and disappeared. Yes, there was the\\nlong looked-f or beacon, there were the Scilly Isles,\\nthere was solid land after these many days.\\nThat last evening, according to a time-hon-\\nored custom, was served what is called the\\nCaptain s dinner, though in reality given by\\nthe transportation company, at which unusual\\ndelicacies are spread, with unlimited champagne.\\nMirth and good-fellowship abound, and with the\\ndessert on the present occasion was served an\\nassortment of fancy pop-crackers which, on\\nbeing pulled out, developed into a collection of\\nfantastic head-riggings, high and low caps of\\nall varieties, sombreros, capotes, helmets, and\\nthe heads of all sorts of animals. Each person\\ndonned his own, and we all marched about the\\nsalon in majestic style at the close of the feast.\\nThe next morning the shores of France, snow-\\ncovered and looking in the distance much like\\nthe southern shores of Lake Superior, were dis-\\ntinctly visible on the right, and a few hours\\nlater, on the left, also. The bold outlines of ie\\nHavre soon rose to view and we entered the\\nwide harbor with its great solid piers and mas-\\nsive masonry.\\nTo our intense disappointment the tide was\\nout and it became necessary to land us in a ten-\\nder. We watched it putting out from the pier,\\ndancing up and down through the waves and\\nseeming indeed like the veriest toy in comparison\\nwith the huge steamer on which we stood.\\nThe transference was a long and most tedious\\nprocess. First came the steerage passengers\\nfrom beiow. Such a motley crew, with bun-\\ndles of clothes nnd bedding and household effects.\\nPoor things, they looked pale and ill; no doubt", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "26 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nour rough voyage which had so tried even us who\\nwere more comfortably lodged and fed, had\\ncaused them to suifer severely. Then the occu-\\npants of the second cabin, who were most respec-\\ntable in appearance. Last, the first classers\\nwere called upon to walk the plank.\\nIt was not the pleasantest thing imaginable,\\neither, to step out upon the swaying, bobbing\\nconcern that hung from our deck down to that\\nof the little steamer below us, rising and falling\\nwith her as she courtesied to the motion of the\\nwaves which rolled all too apparently beneath,\\nwhile a bitter w4nd tugged wildly at us as if to\\ntear us from our slender support. But we all did\\nit somehow, and were stowed away more or less\\ncomfortably on camp-chairs or benches or rolls\\nof luggage, as the case might be.\\nNow, we supposed, we should soon be on\\nshore, but to our inexpressible disgust, we were\\ntaken around to the other side of our ship, and\\nthere we had to wait, shivering and sneezing, un-\\ntil the whole amount of luggage from hold and\\ncabins was transferred to the tender. Why this\\ncould not have been done iirst and the passen-\\ngers taken on afterward, no one deigned to ex-\\nplain.\\nBut now at last we are really in motion once\\nmore, and dance along over the choppy waves\\ntoward the wharves of Le Havre.\\nHigh and picturesque the city lies back from the\\nsea, with long lines of streets handsomely built\\nafter an old-world fashion, stretching away over\\nthe heights. Upon these heights, we are told,\\nare the residences of the aristocracy, and the\\nhome of the president of the republic is pointed\\nout to us. One of my co-voyagers, a young lady,\\nexclaims Oh, do see the cute little French sol-\\ndiers.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 27\\nSurely enough, there they go marching down\\npast the pier in their gay red and blue uniforms.\\nLike boys they look, and boys, I presume, most\\nof them are.\\nOur steamer is behind time and there is not\\nmuch bustle over our arrival. We reach the\\npier, we mount the landing, and at last, after\\nnine long days, once more we\\ntake our stand\\nOn land, on solid land,\\nalbeit it is here covered with a moist unpleasant\\nslush.\\nThe claiming of luggage now takes place, a\\nproceeding tiresome and, to the United States\\nmind accustomed to checks, entirely unnecessary.\\nThey who, like myself, have through tickets to\\nParis, are saved this trouble as our packages\\nwent on in the special train which met us here.\\nIt was now about four o clock and we could not\\nreach Paris before midnight, so Mr. and Mrs. M.\\nand myself decided to stay in Le Havre. Ac-\\ncordingly we filed through one door into a wait-\\ning room which is indeed fitly named, as here we\\nwere obliged to wait a long time for our turn to\\nhave our hand-bags examined and to declare\\nthat we had no tobacco or silver; whereupon an\\nattendant, in my case a fat, old woman, marked\\neach piece with a chalk design, and we filed out\\nagain at an opposite door and into the street,\\nwhere we stood for a few moments taking in our\\nfirst impressions of an alien climate and a for-\\neign shore.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER III.\\nIt was, on the whole, difficult to realize that\\nwe were really in France. In the first place,\\neverything was heavily covered with snow, and\\nthis, I think, does not accord with one s mental\\npictures of France, la belle, the land of vintage\\nand perfume. To be sure, we were in the far\\nnorth to the south might smile verdant slopes\\nand sunny skies. Then again, the throng of\\nraggedy men and boys about the landing\\nseemed much the same as at home; although\\nthey spoke excitedly in a foreign tongue and\\ngesticulated in a foreign manner, the general\\neffect was very similar. Our boat having been\\nlate, there were no vehicles awaiting us, and for\\nthe novelty of it we decided to walk on to seek\\na hotel, a small boy offering to carry our bags,\\npressing into service another little lad who\\nwanted to go along because he was his brother.\\nOff we went through the slush, the narrow\\nstreets reminding one of Old Boston; but the\\nstalls of flowers here and there amid the snow,\\nand the b.-ireheade J women running about every-\\nwhere with, at most, but a muslin cap upon the\\nhead, did not seem at all familiar. Girls, men\\nand boj ^s were laughingly pelting each other\\nwith snow-balls in nw t-agerness and enjoyment\\nthat betokened an infrequent pastime.\\nFar to the 1-ft, overlooking the harbor and\\nthe open sea, is thn great Hotel Frascati.fam ais\\nfor its baths and general fe.-tivities, and a fav-\\norite resort for both French and foreign in the\\nseason. We crossed a great stone bridge, skirted\\n28", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 29\\naround queer and angling corners, and soon\\ncame to a fine street with buildings of quaint\\nbut good architecture. We learn afterward\\nthat it is the Rite de Paris and that it stretches\\nstraight on, a beautiful avenue, to that city.\\nFollowing it we came to a little park; trees,\\nstatues, fountain and flower-stalls all looking\\nout from the snow. This is the Place Gambetta\\nfronting which stands our hotel.\\nIt was dark when we reached it. Bare and\\nchill enough seemed the tile-paved little rotunda\\nin which was the bureau, ov office, poorly lighted\\nand with no perceptible heat. We were shown\\ndirectly to our rooms, being preceded up the\\nlong, twisty, cold staircase, by a maid bearing,\\nto my amazement, a solitary candle.\\nMr. M., who had been abroad before and was\\nfamiliar with foreign tricks and manners,\\nwas much amused at the horrified expression of\\nhis wife and myself. There was no elevator,\\nthey being only in the new and modernized\\nplaces that are largely patronized by Ameri-\\ncans. The house itself was stately and impos-\\ning, but sadly deficient, to the modern idea, in\\nconvenience and comfort. The hostess it is\\nalways a hostess in the true foreign hostelry,\\ntold us the building was an old mansion of a no-\\nble family and built in the early part of the cen-\\ntury, but had been used as a public house for\\nabout forty years. While the ceilings were ex-\\nceedingly high and the walls adorned with\\nfrieze and arabesque in classic style, yet the pas-\\nsages they could not be called halls, were nar-\\nrow and crooked and floor-clothed with some-\\nthing that looked like heavy, brown wrapping-\\npaper. We noted a curious arrangement of\\nfolding panels in several of the rooms and were\\ntold that many of them were originally one, and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "30 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nhad been, in the course of events, made so that\\nthey might be shut off or thrown again into one,\\nat will. For a generation perhaps, liowever,\\nthey had not been disturbed.\\nThere was no light above the ground-floor,\\nwhich, by the way, is never the first floor, as\\nwith us, except by candles, (and these an ex-\\ntra and no heat unless specially ordered.\\nThere happening to be but two chambers va-\\ncant on what we would call the second floor, the\\nlarger was givea to my companions, and truly,\\nit was a spacious apartment, I should think\\nabout twenty by thirty feet. The glittering\\nwhite w^alls were chastely and beautifully orna-\\nmented in high relief two great windows over-\\nlooking the park in front were composed of tiny\\npanes and opened outward down the middle, as\\nmost foreign windows do. The wide mantle\\nwas of the whitest of marble tastefully sculp-\\ntured, and all this space and grandeur was illu-\\nminated( by one little candle.\\nMr. M. quickly perpetrated the great extrava-\\ngance of ordering in two more, and a fire to be\\nlighted in the tiny fireplace beneath the grand\\nmantel, and we really felt quite festive. We\\nwere pleased to learn that these candles were\\nthe very latest improved and considered most\\nsuperior in that they had each three holes down\\nthe center, which obviated the dripping of the\\nwax and secured a perfect draught. The idea\\nof improving candles in this day and generation,\\ntickled alike the fancies of Wisconsinite and\\nCalif .riiians.\\nI now retired to my chamber across the pas-\\nsage. I had not so much magnificence as my\\nneighbors and I had but one cmdle. I did not\\nbelieve that any number of improved candles\\ncould give as much light as one good lamp, so 1\\ninquired if I might have one.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n31\\nAh! no. Madame, the hostesp, was deso-\\nlated, but there were none in the house; they\\nwere so very dangerous! Then I resolved, as an\\nexperiment, to find out how much one really could\\nsee with one candle as our forefathers and moth-\\ners must often have done in the good old\\ndays, So by its flickering flame I essayed to\\ntake a survey of my apartment.\\nThe floor was dark, bare with the exception of\\na heavy, soft rug before the bed, and polished\\nto a perilous degree. My feeble lurriinary did\\nnot penetrate to the ceiling above. I groped my\\nway to a kind of oblong structure with a marble\\nslab on top, which stood at one side. Its use I\\ncould not conjecture but it suggested nothing so\\nmuch as one of the old tombs around Trinity\\nChurch in New York City. Next came a quaint,\\nnarrow little table with spindly legs and a\\ndrawer. In this drawer were writing materials\\nand a printed form in which Ji Jf., les voya-\\ngeurs were prayed to have the goodness to be\\nwilling to fill up the blanks with names, sur-\\nnames, ages, professions, birthplaces, habitual\\nresidences, and so forth and so forth. It was\\nfarther explained that this was for the bene-\\nfit of the police.\\nThis made me feel sort o creepy, and as if\\nsome Old Sleuth might be upon my guilty\\ntrack. Conquering my quakings, however, I\\nproceeded. Next was an odd sort of toilette-\\ntable, marble-topped and with a folding lid,\\nmirror-lined, which might be shut down over\\nthe top of the concern. In the morning I discov-\\nered another mirror on the uall but this was now\\nlost in the gloom. There was the tiniest ewer\\nand basin imaginable for their purpose, towels\\nthe same, soap-dish but no soap, (there never is\\nany) and a bottle of drinking water; no ice to\\nbe seen and none to be had on demand.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "32 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nClose to the bed was a queer little piece of\\nfurniture, solid, square and also marble-topped,\\nwhich I afterward learned was styled a table de\\nniiif, though it looked nothing like a table; this,\\nof course, was for one s candle.\\nAnd then came the bed itself. It was a pecu-\\nliar looking affair. High above it, showing\\nfaintly out from the obscurity, was a round can-\\nopy from which depended long, full curtains of\\na dusky red looped away in front. The bed-\\nstead was heavy and solid, and resembled a huge\\nbox on casters, though not wide enough for two\\noccupants. It was built up with a sort of up-\\nholstered mattress and bolster, to a height\\nnearly equal to my own. These w^ere covered\\nin a kind of gray damask linen and over this\\nwere linen sheets resembling homespun. Then\\nblankets and spread as customary but over all\\nthis an immense cushion, in fact what the small\\nboy might term a young bed, of feathers or\\ndown, covered in red. As there was no way of\\nheating my chamber, this cushion looked very\\ncomfortable to me, though extremely odd. A\\nchair or two completed the furnishings so far as\\nI was able to discern, and everything was most\\ndaintily fresh and clean, I then tried first to\\nread, next to write by the candle but failed\\nutterly. I will add here from after experience,\\nthat before my return a year later, I acquired\\nthe power to do both with perfect ease, and fre-\\nquently used a candle in preference to gas. So\\nmuch for one s environment. But now, as I\\nhad been kindly invited by my neighbors to sit\\nat their fire, I took my candle and bore it in to\\nswell their state, and in the light of the four,\\nand the glow of the coals we sat in a semi-circle\\nabout the hearth stone and talked of our native\\nland.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IV.\\nNext morning about eleven, we met at de-\\njeuner which, as I noted before, is the first reg-\\nular meal a Frenchman takes, having his cafe-\\nau lait and petit pain, or roll, in his chamber at\\nwhatever hour he desires. At meals he drinks\\nnothing but wine. But Mrs. M. and I could not\\naccustom ourselves to the wine, so she ordered\\ntea and I coffee. In paying our bill, we were\\nsurprised to find these charged as extras.\\nAs the price of the wine was reckoned in with\\nthat of the meal, we had the privilege of paying\\nfor all these beverages. The charges at the ho-\\ntel seemed light, but when in addition to the\\ncost of my room, (eighty cents,) I had paid for\\nservice, twenty cents candle, twenty cents\\ngiven a tip to maid and man, and still had had\\nno fire nor serviceable light, I concluded I would\\nrather pay United States prices and enjoy\\nUnited States comforts. I was reminded of\\nJames de Mille s laughable exposition in his The\\nDodge Club, of the foreign system of charges\\nand the schemes by which his characters pro-\\ntected their purses one of which consisted in\\ncarrying off on their departure all the candle-\\nends in their rooms. I had not come to this as\\nyet, however, so I left my pieces of improved\\nilluminator to be charged up again to the next\\ntraveler.\\nGoing out into the pleasant street, we were\\nsoon taking a drive in a comfortable carriage in\\nwhich three, its full capacity, were allowed to\\nride as cheaply as one. Our coachman proved\\n33", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "34 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsociable and we picked up some bits of informa-\\ntion, not all new, bat yet interesting.\\nHavre, or Le Havre, as the French call it, is a\\nlarge and flourishing city of about one hundred\\nand seventeen thousand inhabitants and, next\\nto Marseilles, the most important town in France.\\nIt has extensive ship-building yards and sugar-\\nrefineries. It was formerly called Havre de\\nGrace, from a chapel of Notre Dame de Grace\\nfounded by Francis I,, in 1516, which is still to\\nbe seen in the Hue de Paris. The city has be-\\ncome much modernized of late, and has many\\nfine edifices and wide, beautiful boulevards.\\nBernardin St. Pierre, the author of Paul and\\nVirginia, was a native of Havre and an artistic\\nmonument to his memory stands in the Rue de\\nParis.\\nSome very handsome official buildings stand\\nupon the Rue de Strasbourg, which stretches\\nfrom the railway station on the east to the sea\\non the west.\\nThe harbors and docks of this port are espec-\\nially fine. At the principal dock, the Bassin de\\nV Eur e, the huge transatlantic steamers lie at ease\\nwithin its fifty acres area. This was ten years\\nin construction and finished in 1856. The Bas-\\nsin du Roi was excavated in 1669. The Canal\\nde Tancarville was opened in 1887 and connects\\nthe Seine directly wnth this harbor and enables\\nships to escape the tidal wave in the estuary.\\nThere are two cable railways and three elec-\\ntric tramways running out to points of interest,\\nand little steamers ply three or four times daily\\nto watering-places near by all seem to be well\\npatronized.\\nOn reaching the station we were permitted,\\non account of holding through tickets, to pass\\nthrough and to enter our train without delay.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 35\\nFunny little coaches we saw, of first, second and\\nthird class. In France, we learn, no one rides\\nthird class who can in any way acquire the price\\nof the higher grade.\\nWe were about to take an ordinary first-class\\ncarriage when we were told that by paying one\\nfranc extra, (everywhere an extra!) we might\\noccupy a coach with a toilette room. So to\\navail ourselves of this great privilege, free\\nto the poorest who rides in the United States,\\nwe each disbursed our franc and stepped into\\nthe carriage designated, which stood at p level\\nwith the platform and conveyances of this sort\\nare fitly named carriages.\\nIt may chance that the sister for whom\\nthese lines are written has no clearer idea than\\nI had myself, of the continental car, so I will\\ndescribe this one which seemed to be regarded as\\nthe acme of convenience.\\nWe first note how small all the carriages are.\\nThose with toilette-room are a trifle larger. A\\ndoor on each side with window in upper half\\ngives entrance and we find at the rear end two\\ndouble eats like the usual horse-carriage seat,\\nnicely upholstered in smooth, gray cloth, as are\\nthe walls of the vehicle itself.\\nOpposite the further seat and separated from\\nit by the width of the door, is another double\\nseat, and by the side of this a single one resem-\\nbling a comfortable easy-chair. The occupants\\nof these three places must ride backward. On\\neach side of the door-windows is another of like\\nsize and all are lifted or lowered as the ordinary\\ncarriage-window may be, that is, by straps, and\\nthere are also straps as in carriages, by which\\nto hold on. Curtains of soft blue ch^th are\\nlooped back from the windows. In the center\\nof the carriage-roof is a small, red lamp of about", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "36 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ntwo-candle power, which is all the light to be\\nhad in the darkest night. Around this another\\nblue curtain is arranged to be drawn in case the\\ntraveler finds this illumination too brilliant for\\nhis comfort! Heat to a moderate degree, is sup-\\nplied from below through a perforated strip of\\nmetal on which we rest our feet.\\nThe compartment contained but seven places.\\nImmediately at the left of the entrance on the\\nright was a narrow lane leading forward, pas-\\nsing the wonderful toilette room, which, by\\nthe way, was of the most primitive kind, though\\ncontaining a gO( d but small mirror, and along\\nbj a sort of inner compartment shut off by itself,\\nwhich I presume corresponds to the stateroom\\nin our sleepers at home. I caught a glimpse of\\nthe four occupants, all it would accommodate, as\\nI glanced down the lane, and they did look fun-\\nny enough shut up there in a box within a box.\\nBut I dare say they were quite content, inas-\\nmuch as they were thus divided from the vul-\\ngar herd as represented by four ladies and\\nthree gentlemen in the rear section.\\nSmoking, it seems, is allowed in any of these\\ncarriages except a few reserved for ladies alone.\\nIndeed I do not know but that it would be al-\\nlowed there should any of the lone females\\ndesire the solace of the weed, but I presume in\\nfact, that excluding men virtually excludes\\nsmokers. By the way, I have heard that there\\nis a mild prejudice prevailing against these car-\\nnages, ladies seeming to feel that there is a\\nsuspicion of old-maidism attached to the oc-\\ncupants thereof, and often declining to enter the\\nsame for fear of falling under the ban. All these\\ndifferent styles of compartment are to be found\\nusually in one train, so, reversing the old adage,\\nyou takes your choice and you pays your\\nmoney.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 37\\nBut now we are off and we speed away with\\na gentle motion, very comfortable. We see no\\nconductor nor news-boy and are absolutely un-\\ndisturbed. All the excitement we have is\\noccasioned by a violent altercation that takes\\nplace between three of our fellow-passengers.\\nOne, a stout, ruddy gentleman whom we En-\\nglish-Americans would unhesitatingly dub a\\nGerman, but who was a citizen of the United\\nStates and deemed himself an American to the\\ncore, had been a passenger with us on our voy-\\nage. He also had stopped at the same hotel and\\nwas proceeding to Paris, The two others were\\na French lady and gentleman, probably resi-\\ndents in the vicinity. The stout man in convers-\\ning with Mr. M., dwelt forcibly and at length\\non the superiority of everything American, and\\nevidently his remarks were understood and re-\\nsented by the French couple, for suddenly,\\nwithout warning and with the greatest vehe-\\nmence, they burst into the conversation, but in\\nFrench, and presumably threw do *vn the gaunt-\\nlet of all France before the champion of Amer-\\nica.\\nHe apparently with alacrity picked up the\\nsame, and then they had it back and forth, hot\\nand heavy, shouting, gesticulating, hurling at\\none another scathing glances of ineffable defi-\\nance and disdain, and seemingly on the point of\\ncoming to blows then and there. We watched\\nthem amazed, while Mrs. M. and I consulted as\\nto the expedience of trying to interfere, when\\nquite as suddenly their fury moderated, their\\nvoices modulated, and soon they were smiling\\nblandly upon one another, exchanging gracious\\nbows and probably also the most elaborate of\\ncompliments.\\nWe are fairly under way and have gotten out", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "38 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nof the suburbs. How strange it seems, looking\\nout at our first stop, to see the historic and\\npoetic name of Harfleur above the station door!\\nBut its glories are departed and little is left of\\ninterest except a iine Gothic church attributed\\nto Henry V., of England. Thirty-one miles\\nfrom Havre we come to Yvetot, recalling that\\nKing of Yvetot little known to fame, who\\nslept exceeding well without glory.\\nWe find less snow as we ride eastward, the\\ncountry appearing much like the less mountain-\\nous portions of our eastern states. It looks\\nsomber and sere, but as we go farther inland the\\nlandscape brightens and the trees lose their shiv-\\nery air. Picturesque homesteads with farm-\\nbuildings clustered closely about, mostly of\\nneat, red brick nicely painted and picked out in\\ncontrasting colors, are seen on every hand, and\\noccasionally an ancient, stone windmill comes\\ninto view, of the type familiar in their geogra-\\nphies to school-children, and totally unlike the\\nmodern water-pumping variety. These mills\\nare round at base and conical in shape and have\\nfour great wings extending in as many di-\\nrections. A Frenchman who has recently en-\\ntered, foi our warlike couple has departed,\\ntells us that the mills are relics of the old-\\ntime, Holland occupation of this region, and are\\nused even yet to grind grain.\\nThe country looks more and more prosperous\\nand picture-like as we go on. Trim hedges and\\ntidy fields, everything cared for in the highest\\ndegree; no waste nor debris anywhere, all things\\nbetokening the small and carefvil land-holder.\\nSoon a hateful tunnel shuts off the scene, but\\nas we emerge and near Rouen, the valley of the\\nSeine with the great river winding along\\nthrough the midst of it, lies about us in unspeak-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 39\\nable loveliness. We seem to be in a sort of\\ngigantic basin, the rim of which is the low, cir-\\ncling hills not thickly covered with trees.\\nHow silvery and serene the river looks as we\\ngaze out and see it stretched away for miles in\\nthe distance. How gently it flows between its\\nfertile shores and the quaint hamlets clustered\\nhere and there in cozy nooks along its banks.\\nNow rise into view the spires and domes of a\\ngreat city. We come nearer and nearer. Tis\\nRouen, with its wealth of medieval architecture\\nand its grand, Gothic cathedral, some parts of\\nwhich date back to 1207. There is a singular\\nincongruity, unsymmetrical in plan yet beauti-\\nful as a whole, about the various portions of this\\nfamous edifice. One lofty and graceful pinnacle,\\nwe are amused to learn, is called the Tower of\\nButter, from having been erected with the money\\npaid for indulgences to eat butter in Lent.\\nThis is the old town that bade defiance to\\nHenry V., of England, and Henry IV., of France,\\ncenturies ago. All this is too much for Mr.\\nand Mrs. M. to resist; they are fascinated and\\nleave the train to go on later. I, however, pre-\\nfer to journey to Paris by daylight, so I do not\\nstop.\\nAt first I do not seem to have gained much\\nfor we almost immediately plunge into a series\\nof tunnels; but on reaching daylight once more,\\nwe have yet another surprisingly beautiful view\\nof Rouen and the shining river. Then we cross\\nand re-cross the Seine and rush again through\\ntunnel after tunnel to my great chagrin, for I do\\nnot like to lose a bit of the charming landscape.\\nBut we come out again and once more skirt\\nthe Seine. Yonder on the hills rising from the\\nriver may be seen the old church of Bon Se-\\ncours. All along here are interesting remind!-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "40 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ners of the ancient, close intermingling of the\\nFrench and the English. Only ten miles away,\\nat Les Andelys, are the ruins of Castle Gaillard,\\nerected by Richard Lion-Heart. It afterward\\nbecame a state-prison and in 1314 Margaret of\\nBurgundy, wife of Louis X., was murdered\\nthere. It was destroyed in 1663 by Henri IV.\\nAt Vernon is a conspicuous tower built by\\nHenry I. of England. We pass through Mantes\\nwhere, by falling otf his horse, William the\\nConqueror received the injuries from which he\\ndied at Rouen in 1087.\\nWe continue to skirt the river with ever\\nchanging, ever delightful views. We come to\\nPoissy, the birthplace of Louis IX., St. Louis,\\nwhose memory is held so sacred in parts of our\\nown country to-day. At Poissy was held the\\ngreat conference in 1561, between the Roman\\nCatholics and the Protestants, from which was\\nhoped so much but realized so little.\\nStill we cross and re-cross the river, for the last\\ntime however at Asinieres, one of the environs of\\nParis and a favorite resort for boating, and the\\nlike, in the season. Next comes Clichy, another\\nsuburb though containing more than thirty-one\\nthousand inhabitants. Now we pass through\\nthe fortifications, for Paris is a walled city; then\\nthrough the last tunnel, under the Place de V\\nEurope^ and enter the station St. Lazare.\\nHere stepping from the train we give up our\\ntickets ac the gate, foreign fashion, and at last,\\nafter twelve days pilgrimage, do I reach the end\\nof my long journey and find myself in Peerless\\nParis.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V.\\nAnd now what shall I say of Paris? Paris, so\\nstoried and sung from time immemorial. So\\nexalted and so abased, so joyous and so dis-\\ntressed, so brilliantly prosperous and so crush-\\ningly ruined, by turns, throughout its whole\\nmarvelous existence since first the Roman con-\\nquerors set foot within its borders.\\nNot for me has been left the part to recount\\nits mutations, nor to depict its glories and dis-\\nasters, either past or present.\\nTravelers of to-day, even as did the adventur-\\nous wanderer of the dim past, seek Paris as the\\nneedle seeks the pole, while readers of to-day\\nhave spread before them an embarrassment of\\nliterary riches from which to select at will.\\nEnough be it for me to relate how it befell one\\nwandering woman within the confines of this\\nwondrous city.\\nMy first glimpse of Paris was from the third\\nfloor of the great caravansary that almost sur-\\nrounds the Gare St. Lazare. One leaves the\\ntrain, goes through a gateway, and instead of\\npassing into the open street, comes directly into\\nthis mammoth edifice.\\nIt was nearly dark when I arrived and by the\\ntime I had taken some refreshment and been as-\\nsigned a room, the day was done. I could not;\\nas yet realize that I was in Paris any more than\\nin any other large city. The huge hotel with\\nits spacious salons, electric service, lifts and\\nEnglish-speaking servants, seemed familiar\\nenough. True, neither the queer, high, French", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "42 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nbed with its close curtains, its bolster and great\\nfeather cushion, nor the candles on the mantel\\n(to supplement the electricity are, so far as\\nmy observation goes, to be seen in the United\\nStates. Neither are we obliged there to pass an\\nexamination in our personal history, on regis-\\ntering nor are we, after paying for service and\\nattendance specially itemized in our bills, ex-\\npected to present the servants continually with\\nsmall coin, u.nless indeed we choose to ape for-\\neign customs; but otherwise the altogether,\\nas Trilby might say, diilered little from like\\nhotels at home.\\nOn reaching my chamber I hastened to part the\\nwindow-curtains and gaze down upon the great\\nthoroughfare below. The impression of vast\\nspace was astonishing. The wide area beneath\\nstretched out and away, leading off in all direc-\\ntions into broad, bright avenues through all of\\nwhich multitudes of persons riding, driving,\\nwheeling, walking, were passing to and fro with\\ncelerity and ease, yet with no crowding nor\\njostling. It was raining gently and the army\\nof umbrellas moving swiftly along in the bril--\\nliantly illuminated expanse, viewed from above\\nat that height, produced a peculiar effect, as of\\na remarkably lively company of ebony-hued\\nmushrooms out for a promenade. The intense\\nradiance of innumerable lights reflected back\\nfrom the smooth, wet, glistening pavement, and\\nthe buoyant mien of the quickly shifting throngs\\nin no wise depressed by the falling drops, gave\\nan air of animation and festivity to the spec-\\ntacle that was striking.\\nThe current of my cogitations had been con-\\ntinually interrupted by an annoying click-\\nclick, and I now turned to investigate the\\ncause. Following the sound, I discovered an.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n43\\nupright object perhaps fifteen inches high upon\\nthe mantel. It possessed, a glass face and two\\nshort metal bars that jumped forward about an\\ninch at every click, seemingly causing the same.\\nI tried to open the face and arrest the motion,\\nbut in vain. Then it occurred to me that I\\nmight tilt the concern up sidewise and thus by\\nthrowing its machinery out of balance, perhaps\\nstop the clicking.\\nIt was very heavy but after many struggles I\\nsucceeded in moving it a couple of inches when,\\nto my dismay, I found it to be attached in some\\nway to small, colored worsted ropes that disap-\\npeared mysteriously into the wall behind. I be-\\ngan to think that it must be some sort of a\\nsecret registering-machine for the benefit of\\nthe. police, and almost expected that my\\nunwarranted interference with the affair, would\\nbring down vengeance in some unforseen man-\\nner upon my unprotected head.\\nBut nothing worse ensued than the continued\\npersistence of the maddening click-click,\\nwhich all night long resounded in my ears and\\ndid most effectually murder sleep. The next\\nmorning, being still alive and uninjured, I has-\\ntened to the hotel-offlce to ascertain the nature\\nof this infernal machine. I was relieved to\\nlearn that it was only an electric clock, and\\nwould be stopped if I desired so after that I\\nslept in peace.\\nThe modest tourist with limited means will\\nnot stay very long in quarters so public and\\nexpensive as the great hotels though I will say\\nthat, all things considered, the prices range\\nfrom a surprisingly low figure. For instance,\\none may get a room in most of them for four\\nfrancs a day, or a little less than eighty cents,\\nbut one must pay from one to two and one half", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "44 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nfrancs a day for light. In the present case, I\\npaid five francs for my chamber which though\\nsmall was very comfortable, even luxurious. It\\nis not necessary to take any meals in the house,\\nbut the ordinary charges at the table (V hute for\\nthe first meal or little breakfast, to translate\\nliterally, consisting of colfee or tea with bread\\nand butter, is from twenty to fifty cents de-\\njeuner, about ninety-seven cents, and dinner,\\nfrom one dollar and a quarter to a dollar and\\nsixty cents. Of course by ordering extras, one\\nmay swell the amount unlimitedly.\\nAH these hotels also have restaurants attached\\nwhere one may be served very well indeed, by\\nthe card, and where one s meal may be more\\nspecially adapted to one s purse; but the pru-\\ndent traveler will seek out some less pretentious\\nplace to regale the inner individual and it is\\nsurprising how satisfactorily one may be served\\nfor a small sum even in the great city of Paris.\\nThe most continuous drainage upon one s\\npurse in these large hotels, and the most annoy-\\ning because of one s inability to average it in\\nany way, is the great number of servitors who\\nare to be tipped every day for incidental ser-\\nvices, which indeed are divided up amongst as\\nmany attendants as possible, so that each may\\nhave a claim for \u00e2\u0096\u00a0jiour boire, as they term\\nit. Thit. practice James de Mille has also amus-\\ningly set forth by describing the train of ser-\\nvants which followed him from his carriage into\\nthe hotel, one bearing a tooth-brush, another\\nhis cane, still another an umbrella and so on\\nwith each separate article of his outfit, every one^\\nof the force expecting a sp* cial tip.\\nBesides the charge each day from one to two\\nand a half francs, (about twenty to fifty cents,)\\nfor attendance, one must tip the chamber-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WONDERING 45\\nmaid, (who is a man,) the porter, the servant\\nwho opens the door for one, gives one any infor-\\nmation or any sort of service, such as calling a\\ncab, fetching a newspaper and so forth, so that\\none s rancs and centimes melt away unceasingly\\nwithout any very perceptible return for one s\\noutlay. This complication is avoided in a de-\\ngree at the smaller places where the servants\\nare less numerous and where the size of the tip\\nexpected is much less.\\nThe Bestaurants Duval, which are found scat-\\ntered about in all parts of Paris, are particularly\\ndesirable for wandering women, though also\\npatronized by men the places are neat, attrac-\\ntive, comparatively inexpensive and thoroughly\\nrespectable.\\nThe waiters here are women in a decorous\\nuniform of black gowns, white caps and aprons.\\nA peculiarity of these places is that every\\nidentical item has a separate charge, but so com-\\nparatively trifling that the sum is not exorbi-\\ntant. For example napkin, table-cloth, each\\none cent; half bottle of aerated water or wine,\\nthree to ten cents; bread, two cents; soup, five\\ncents, and the like.\\nButter is always expensive. Tea costs more\\nthan cafe-au-lait, but the latter is only served\\nin the morning. If one takes cream or milk in\\none s tea or black coffee, that is extra.\\nOne s attendant here will be satisfied with a tip\\nof three cents, though of course more is gra-\\nciously accepted.\\nFor a person meaning to remain some little\\ntime in one place, and this is really the cheap-\\nest way to establish one s self as reductions are\\ngiven for prolonged residence, the best plan is\\nto seek some recommended boarding-house or\\npension as we soon learn to call it. A good", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "46 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nway to get on thp track of such, if one has no\\npersonal acquaintances, is to ask advice of yome\\nTourist Office, and here is where one benefit of\\nhaving bought tickets of such an organization, be-\\ncomes apparent. By the terms of one s contract\\none is entitled to attention and advice and feels\\nthat one has some sort of backing, which lifts a\\npart of one s burden of responsibility from one s\\nown shoulders.\\nBefore I get too far away from the huge ho-\\ntels, I will say that although almost all places\\nof lodgment in Europe are conducted on what\\nisverj properly known as the European Plan,\\nyet I did find houses in Germany and Switzer-\\nland where a higher charge was made for lodg-\\ning if no meals whatever were taken at the place\\nof sleeping, but as a rule there is no objection\\nto renting beds without board.\\nHere, perhaps, is a good point to answer the\\nquestion so often asked by persons contemplating\\nforeign travel, namely: Is it of any advantage\\nto have the superficial knowledge of foreign\\nlanguages that one acquires from books and in\\na class under a Professor, without opportunity\\nof hearing it in general conversation?\\n1 think it is to be sure one will not be able to\\nunderstand the foreigners at first, no matter\\nhow glibly one may read or pronounce the\\nalien tongue. But it will take less time to ed-\\nucate one s ear to the spoken language and in\\nthe meantime one is able to read signs, placards,\\ncirculars and newspapers, from which one may\\nglean very many desirable hints and much infor-\\nmation on almost any department of ever3^day\\nlife; often, on account of such proficiency, being\\nable to dispense with guides, thus lessening\\none s expense. The guide books gotten out by\\nmany Tourist Firms are cheap and reliable; but", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n47\\nfor an utter stranger, particularly my lone\\nsister, I think one more voluminous and giving\\nspecial hints as to prices and routine of tiavel,\\nalso addresses of inexpensive, respectable stop-\\nping-places, is by far more serviceable though\\nconsiderable more costly.\\nBut there is one thing especially noticeable in\\nforeign lands, even in the grand, opulent city\\nof Paris, and that is the universal recognition\\nof, not only the necessity, but the commendable-\\nness of suiting one s expenditure to one s means.\\nThere seems to be no odium attached, as too fre-\\nquently with us, to the attempt to live as cheaply\\nas possible, if one s finances are slender, in order\\nto put by even from such, some sort of a pro-\\nvision for the rainy day, and there are al-\\nways arrangements of a desirable and even at-\\ntractive kind though of course extremely simple,\\nmade for persons so situated. Indeed it is\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0considered most blameworthy not to exercise a\\nreasonable prudence and economy, though nat-\\nurally they who have ample means find no diffi-\\nculty in being relieved of any surplus. But let\\nmy solitary woman take note of the fact that\\nit is absolutely necessary to have a clear and\\nspecified understanding in any bargain whatso-\\never, or one will be likely to find one s self\\ncharged more than one has supposed would be\\nthe sum total. Let her remember .that in France\\na week is reckoned at eight days and in taking a\\nreceipt to see that the revenue stamp required\\nis not omitted. And I would strongly advise her\\nto familiarize herself as much as possible with\\nthe currencies of the countries she means to\\nvisit, thus lessening her chances of being im-\\nposed upon.\\nCab-hire is so inexpensive that one at first\\nfritters away a considerable amount in the ag-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "48 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ngregate upon it, which afterward, when one has\\nlearned the routine of the very comfortable and\\nconvenient trams and buses, one is quite likely\\nto regret. There are numerous lines of these and\\ntwo or three lines of eteam-trams into certain\\nsuburbs, and one cable they traverse the city\\nand environs everywhere, with no confusion and\\nwith unusual safety to pedestrians.\\nVehicles and equestrians, however, here as in\\nGermany, have the right of way, and if you are\\nrun down you must pay for it, which perhaps\\nmay be the secret of so comparatively few ac-\\ncidents.\\nMost of the trams and buses have an upper-\\ndeck reached by a narrow stairway and this\\nupper portion is truly the pleasanter place in\\ngood weather, though the fare, three cents, is\\nbut one half that in the lower part. On these\\nhigh, open tops may be seen widely contrasting\\ngroups. Bareheaded women riding on undis-\\nturbed by chance wind or rain, closely contigu-\\nous to handsomely garbed ladies student and\\nlaborer, artist and shop boy, priest and washer-\\nwoman, side by side. One need never fear\\ncrowding and jamming in such conveyances in\\nParis, or almost any other foreign city, as no\\npassenger may enter a vehicle unless there is a\\ndefinite place for him.\\nThe sooner one gets so one can go about inde-\\npendently and understandingly, the sooner one s\\nexpenses may begin to lessen. It is often said,\\nYou find English-speaking people everywhere\\nwhile this is true, generally speaking, it is also\\ntrue that to find them you must frequent those\\nlines of travel and entertainment where there is\\nso much English and American business that it is\\nan object to provide especially for it, but it must\\nbe paid for and the tourist must pay it in the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n49\\nlong run, so that it is is more expensive than if\\nhe were not thus hampered; moreover, one does\\nnot then get outside of the beaten track and cer-\\ntainly does not get down into the real, native\\nmanners and styles of living, as one does to\\nwander where one listeth. The country people\\nare usually friendly and disposed to assist a\\nstranger.\\nIf I might add a woi d as to one s mental atti-\\ntude when traveling, 1 would say do not go\\nabout in a critical or carping mood; lo(\u00c2\u00bbk for\\npleasant things instead of disagreeable, both of\\nwhich are to be found everywhere at home or\\nabroad and above all, do not be aggressively\\nAmerican, though by no means concealing or\\napologizing for one s nativity of our own broad\\nand magnificent land that, in a paltry three or\\nfour centuries, has, in so many respects, so far\\noutranked the degree of progress attained in the\\nold world through thousands of years.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI.\\nFollowing the method of procedure recom-\\nmended in the foregoing chapter, I was soon\\ndomiciled in a delightful family at Neuilly, a\\nsuburb of Paris. The proprietor of this home is\\nan actor at the Theatre du Palais-Royal, where\\nhis wife also played until her marriage. Culti-\\nvated, refined, and also delightful musicians,\\nthey are indeed charming in their French fash-\\nion, for they speak no English.\\nThere home is described as a hotel pavticulier,\\nwhich being interpreted, means simply a pri-\\nvate house; the word hotel not meaning\\nnecessarily, as with us, a place of public enter-\\ntainment, but signifies specifically a gentleman s\\nhouse, or a mansion of some sort for special oc-\\ncupation. This one has the rare appurtenance\\nof what we should term a yard, but called\\nhere a garden.\\nIt is inclosed by a heav} wall some ten feet\\nhigh in front, and at the sides and back by the\\nneighboring walls of the high, adjacent houses.\\nAn iron gate closely locked and having a bell,\\ndefends us from all intruders.\\nAll through the house are found the slippery,\\nwaxed floors so smooth and fair to look upon,\\nbut so tiring to feet and ankles. The place is\\nfitted up in exquisite taste, with much beauti-\\nful woodwork and fine china; everything\\nglistens with polished cleanliness; the ceilings\\nare very high and the house is as cold as a\\nbarn. Yet it is supposed to be heated because\\nin the basement there is some sort of an arrange-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 51\\nment whereby a tiny wave of warm air is sent\\nthrough exceedingly small apertures into the\\nsalon on the ground floor; that is, when there is\\nany fire, which is by no means continually, even\\nin winter.\\nLights and fires are extra in France, but\\nthis establishment is considered to make great\\nconcessions because lights are thrown in and\\nonly fires in one s own rooms are extra.\\nIf my fancied sister hasnot traveled much\\nin her own country, she may not know that in\\nparts of our own land, as in the south and in\\nCalifornia, similar conditions exist and I must\\nown that the French landlord is in this respect\\nmore reasonable than the American for the for-\\nmer charges usually so moderate a price for his\\nrooms that the extras are not very burdensome,\\nwhereas the American, particularly the Cali-\\nfornian, exacts a most exorbitant remuneration\\nfor his accommodations, and then calmly informs\\nyou that you can furnish your own heat, as\\nthey do abroad.\\nIn this dwelling, the great, high, bare halls\\nwere a grand coursing-place for drafts, and the\\nstone stairs and polished balustrades seemed\\nchill enough. My room was so cold that I sat\\nin street-garb much of the time, even to over-\\nshoes and gloves, and for real warmth and com-\\nfort I went to bed.\\nSpeaking of beds, imagine my horror on first\\nbeginning to reside en jjerision in France, to find\\nthat bed-linen is expected to do duty for three\\nFrench weeks, twenty-four days, without\\nchange. I could not believe it when so informed\\non requesting the maid to bring fresh linen. I\\nthought that I was being victimized as a for-\\neigner; but on making inquiries among persons\\nwho had been longer in residence than myself, I", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "52 ONE WOMAN WANDEBING\\nfound that this circumstance is as true as it is\\nawful. Two towels are supposed to be plenty\\nfor the eight days use. Usually American trav-\\nelers if stopping long at one pension are impelled\\nby a sense of the proprieties, to supply them-\\nselves with an extra change or so and to provide\\nfor the laundering of the same.\\nThe French wash-stdnd-ewer holds about a\\nquart of water, with bowl to match, and a bath-\\nroom is indeed a rarity. Of course the foregoing\\nobservations do not apply to the great hotels\\nthat are chiefly calculated for, and supported by\\nforeign travel.\\nThere being a fireplace in my chamber, 1 at\\nfirst committed the ruinous extravagance of or-\\ndering a fire; but finding that the capacity of\\nmy fireplace was utterly disproportioned to the\\namount of space it should, but did not warm, I\\nat last abandoned the measure; having then the\\npartially consoling reflection that at least I was\\nno longer sending up my moderate provision of\\nfrancs through my chimney to no avail.\\nHow do these people endure this discomfort?\\nThe houses though carefully and solidly built as\\nregards permanence, are yet so badly con-\\nstructed in regard to the conservation of heat,\\nthat even if fires were constant, which they\\nnever are, the slight degree of warmth from the\\ntiny fireplaces would be entirely inadequate to\\ncounteract the blasts sweeping in around win-\\ndows and doors, and the dampness inherent in\\nthe cold, stone walls. But I found that one gets\\nacclimated in a measuie, after a while, though\\nit was sometime before I reached that desired\\nconsummation.\\nThe interior of the average French home,\\nthough usually tasteful and perhaps artistic, is\\nrarely cheerful and gay. These attributes are", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 53\\nfound outside in the boulevards and gardens.\\nOn tile chiilliest and dampest days of winter I\\nwould go back to my yensUm tired, w^et and\\ncold, to find no fire in any part of the house un-\\nless perchance it was near a meal-time, when\\nthere would be some heat in the kitchen.\\nWhere is Madame, the mistress? I would\\ninquire? Can I not go to her for fire a little?\\nA]as! Madame is out.\\nBut Madamoiselle, has she no fire?\\nAh! Ma m sel also promenadf S herself.\\nIn fact there would seldom anyone ever be\\ncliez ltd except the unfortunate servants who\\nmust keep the hou^eholii goaig. So I would\\nhave to wait with benumbed fingers and toes and\\nchattering teeth till a handful of fire could be\\nput into the small grate in my apartment, so\\nsmall that it was utterly unequal to heating the\\nroom but as many rooms had none at all, J en-\\ndeavored to be content, though vigorous drafts\\ncontinually rushed in through the hi^h ventila-\\ntor which there were no meanj of closing, and\\nthe fire being as I have said, literally a hand-\\nful, genera ly went out with much greater\\ncelerity than it had been kindled.\\nI was continually reminded of an elderly gen-\\ntleman whom I met one season in Southern Cal-\\nifornia. He had just arrived from Boston to\\nspend the winter in a warm country. Like\\nall new-comers, he was going about heavily\\nwrapped, wearing overcoat and overshoe*, and\\nalmcst blue with chill. True, the sun without\\nwas shining gloriously, the heavens were a radi-\\nant azure, while blo^som and verdure ran riot\\neverj ^where a state of things very different\\nfrom that in France at the same season for,\\nthough it is not rt-ally cold out of doors and the\\ngrass and shrubs in the parks are green, yet the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "54 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nskies are gray and the trees bare. But to return to\\nmy old gentleman. Some one said to him one day\\nWell, Mr. K,, how do joxi like Southern\\nCalifornia?\\nOh, he replied, if I could just go back to\\nBoston and get warioed up once, I believe I\\nshould like California first rate.\\nThus with me; if I could only go back to\\nWisconsin and get warmed up once, I should\\nlike Paris first rate.\\nNeuilly, though a part of Paris, is in itself a\\ncity of twenty nine thousand inhabitants. The\\nold Chateau Nettilly, once the favorite residence\\nof Louis Philippe, was totally destroyed by a\\nmob in 1848.\\nNear my stopping place here is a beautiful\\nlittle chapel, St Ferdinand, erected on the spot\\nwhere Louis Philippe s oldest son died in 1842,\\nin consequence of a fall from his carriage. It\\nwas in Neuilly that Parmentier made his first\\nexperiment in the culture of the potato. A\\nbronze monument near the chapel represents him\\nas investigating the properties of this vegetable.\\nMy quarters at this time were about fifty\\nsteps from the Avenue de la Grande Ai-mee,\\nacross from which the short Boulevard des\\nSahlons leads into the lovely Bois de Boulogne.\\nBeing then unfamiliar with Paris, I did not\\nknow at first how far I was from the heart of\\nthe city nor that I was without the walls. I\\ncame to a realizing sense of this, however, one\\nday on going home in a cab, for I found I had\\nnot only to pay extra for the short distance be-\\nyond the gates to my place, but was also\\nactually obliged to give the driver an extra /rawc\\nfor himself and vehicle to return. I felt a\\nstrong desire to tell the man in forcible United\\nStates, that I did not care in the least whether", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 55\\nhe ever returned or not, but being a stranger\\nin a strange land and limited to a small assort-\\nment of phrases in a foreign tongue, I contented\\nmyself with a feminine version of the thought\\nattributed to the Dutchman s son, Hans,\\nI know vat you tinks. you links dam and\\nwisely held my peace.\\nAfter wandering about to my heart s content\\nin this neighborhood, I decided to change my\\nquarters. I next took up my abode in a cute\\nlittle family hotel just around the corner from\\nthe Madeleine and near the Tuileries. Every-\\nthing here was on such a diminutive scale that\\nit seemed almost like a toy establishment.\\nI was taken past a pretty, little salon and a\\nneat little dining-room to an upper story where,\\npassing through a doorway about two feet\\nwide, invisible when closed, I was conducted\\ndown a narrow, dark, quaint, corkscrewy\\nlittle passage most delightfully Dickensy,\\ninto a tiny, semi-circular chamber that took my\\nfancy at once. To my surprise, considering the\\ntortuous and inconvenient method of approach,\\nthe room turned out to be in front overlooking\\nthe avenue it was most beautifully light and\\nshiningly clean.\\nWonder of wonders, for thpy are so rare\\nhere, this house possesses an elevator, or ascen-\\nseiir. It is an automatic affair, circular, and on\\ncrowding might hold four persons. When I\\ndesired to go to my room that evening, I was\\ninducted into this machine, a bit of candle in a\\nglittering brass holder was given me, a lever\\nwas moved and I began to ascend. Comical\\nenough I felt to be rising thus by some unseen\\nagency, slowly and steadily, candle in hand, all\\nalone, straight up through the center of this\\nunfamiliar edifice.\\nBut I arrived safely at my floor, when the m^", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "56 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nchine, giving a jerk and a mysterious grunt,\\nstopped short and I let myself out upon the\\nlanding. I found out afterward that it was a\\nsort of an unwritten law of the house, that per-\\nsons should go down by staircase instead of ele-\\nvator, it being I suppose, only an elevator\\npure and simple, and not a depressor as well.\\nAt this place, for the first time since my\\narrival in France, the rather odd but very com-\\nfortable feather cushion for the outside of the\\nbed was missing also the bed-curtains, which I\\nnever can see without being reminded of Mr.\\nPickwick s adventure with the lady in the yel-\\nlow curl-papers. My floor was bare, painted\\nin a set figure mainly dark blue, and varnished\\ntill it resembled enamel. A soft, large rug cov-\\nered the center. On one side, or rather, in the\\nmiddle of the semi-circle, was a recess, and in\\nthis was an affair new to me but which I judged\\nto be some sort of heater. It looked like a little\\ntemple with flat top of dark marble from which\\na large pipe led into the wall. Otherwise the\\napartment had no special peculiarities.\\nSettling myself here, I should have been very\\ncomfortable, had not light and heat been con-\\nsidered such luxuries.\\nIt may be of interest to mention that this\\nhouse advertises no charge for light and atten-\\ndance. This, however, does not preclude the\\nnecessity of giving tips. It only does away with\\nthe fixed charge in one s bill of a certain amount\\nevery day under that head.\\nThe light, tt my amusement, I found was half\\na candle per diei)i.\\\\ if this would not serve, guests\\nhad the privilege of paying for more candles or\\na lamp or electricity. But I will add that the\\ncharges here were not at all exorbitant, especi-\\nally in consideration of the very desirable loca-\\ntion.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII.\\nAnd now I devote myself to exploring Paris,\\nStrolling along through the wide, wonderful\\nboulevards, gazing into the bewilderingly beau-\\ntiful shop-windows, dropping here and there\\ninto the convenient restaurants always filled\\nwith a tidy, happy, prosperous-seeming throng,\\nand prowling about in the queer little streets\\nthat lead from the great avenues, one notes such\\npeculiar customs, such strange and motley garbs,\\nsuch a variety of persons.\\nA large number are in conventual or clerical\\nattire of some sort or other, that of the women\\nnot being specially unusual, but that of the men\\nsometimes unique enough. I met a sturdy young\\nfellow the other day arrayed in what might, in\\na Ladies Magazine, be described as a very\\ngenteel walking-costume.\\nHe wore a kind of princesi e robe with full\\nskirt just clearing the ground. A wide sash\\nencircled his rather robust waist, w^s knotted\\nbehind and floated downward to the edge of his\\ngown, A pretty shoulder cape and a modest\\nhat looped up at the side with a chaste cord and\\ntassel, black like the rest of his costume, com-\\npleted his very feminine dress, if I may except\\nhis stout, serviceable boots of unmistakable mas-\\nculinity, which looked odd enough appearing\\nbelow his otherwise womanly array.\\nI see every day any number of plump old\\ngentlemen walking about in little be-ruffled and\\nbe-laced white muslin breakfast jackets sup-\\nplemented by neat, black skirts which they", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "58 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ndeftly hold up from the pavement in the most\\nladylike manner; also others in comfortable\\nthough not very becoming mantillas and flowing\\nrobes of black, brown or white, and with wide-\\nrimmed w^alking-hats that appertain quite as-\\nmuch to the female as the male human being, so\\nthat it really sometimes seems that, in Paris, a\\nstate of affairs exists contrary to that alleged of\\nthe United States, and that men are appropriating\\nthe garb of women instead of women adopting\\nthat of men.\\nThen there are the soldiers with their gay-\\ncolored uniforms, some red and blue, others blue\\nand yellow, red and yellow, blue and white and\\ngold, silver-trimmed, gold-trimmed,lace-trimmed,\\nbraid-trimmed, infinitely varied in style and\\ncombination some in the old Zouave dress fa-\\nmiliar in the United States in the sixties some\\nin more modern bloomer costume; still others-\\nwith great knee-boots and glittering helmets and\\nfloating plumes, riding, driving, walking, march-\\ning by squads, standing guard at all public\\nbuildings, and so forth and so forth.\\nTo one soldier, however, I am indebted for an\\namusing spectacle. He came rushing down the\\nstreet in full uniform on a bicycle. He wore a\\nshining metal helmet, heavy and hot, trousers^\\nof a brilliant red and fashioned in expansive\\nbloomer style, polished high boots of cumbrous\\nmake, and a great blue cape that floated out\\nfrom his shoulders like huge wings, giving him\\nthe appearance of some unwieldy, tropical bird\\nthat might have swooped down upon the wheel\\nand was struggling to rise again with it in his\\ntalons.\\nWalking one day down the Boulevard des Ca-\\npuci nes, I was suddenly surrounded by an eager\\nand animated crowd which looked and pointed", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 59\\nexcitedly up the street. The roadway was\\nquickly cleared and on came a dazzling caval-\\ncade in full military array, horses prancing, ac-\\ncoutrements jangling, every appointment in im-\\nmaculate order, as it swept by us in hot haste,\\nescorting a rapidly-rolling close carriage which\\nwas followed by a second detachment of finely\\ncaparisoned cavalry.\\nWhat is it all? I hastily inquired of a by-\\nstander.\\nOh, Madame! was the reply, it is the\\nPresident who passes!\\nThe President! Ah, yes. They have no mon-\\narch here! Vive la Bepabliquel\\nAll this parade and display of armed men\\nseems very strange to a resident of a republic\\nthat rarely has occasion to demand military ser-\\nvice, though never finding it deficient when re-\\nquired. I suppose it is impossible for us in our\\ngreat, free country, with wide oceans between us\\nand our most powerful neighbors, to realize\\nwhat it must be to live constantly on guard\\nagainst foreign invasion. Let us remember and\\nbe thankful.\\nNot that the President of France invariably\\ngoes about in this ostentatious manner. I am\\ntold that he sometimes is seen proceeding alone\\nlike any unimportant individual. But since the\\nassassination of the preceding President and the\\npresent disturbed state of affairs on the frontiers,\\nthere has been manifest even more than usual\\nof the pomp and circumstance of military au-\\nthority.\\nThe streets of Paris at present do not show as\\nmany cyclers in proportion to the passers, as are\\nto be noted in our cities when the roads are in\\ngood condition, as they are here at all times.\\nThe Bois de Boulogne is said to be a favorite", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "60 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwheeling-ground but even there cyclers are now\\ncomparatively few all of which leads me to con-\\njecture thnt perhaps cycling in Paiis is less a\\nmatter of bui^iness than with us, and is there-\\nfore practiced principal)} when most likely to be\\npleasurable as well as speedy. The pavements\\nare in excellent shape and the temperature gener-\\nally not colder than with us in the middle of Octo-\\nber, and at the present writing, (March)becoming\\nsteadily warmer, in fact, in the country peach\\nand almond trees in bloom still on many days I\\nsee no bicycles at all and as yet have encountered\\nbut one female rider.\\nThis was on the Boulevard Haiismann, in the\\nvery heart of one of the busiest quarters. She\\npresented rather a startling appearance, being\\nclad in a bright pink shirt-waist, white hat, veil,\\ngloves and shoes, with hose and accordeon-\\npleated bloomers of a soft dove-color. She\\nseemed not a whit abashed by her overwhelm-\\ning minority but crossed the street just ahead of\\nme, trundling her wheel with the utmost non-\\nchalance.\\nI had been in Paris nearly two months before I\\ndiscovered an electric car and my discovery was\\naccidental, all persons of whom I had inquired\\nnever having seen any in the city and being una-\\nware that the cars had been introduced here at all.\\nOne day, however,! was journeying out in the sub-\\nurbs, and after proceeding a part of the way by\\nhorse-tram, 1 v/as informed that I must at a cer-\\ntain poinr, exchange into a tra}ii, electrique\\\\ then\\nI ascertained that there are three such lines,\\nthough none of them cross the heart of the city,\\nbut proceed outward respectively from the Made-\\nleine, the Opera and the Place de In. liepuldique.\\nThese cars are two-storied like most of the trams\\nand buses of Paris, but unlike them, have a", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 61\\ncanopy over the upper story that shields from\\nsun or rain. The only other time that I ever\\nmet with this style was in our own country at\\nCoronado Beach, Southern California. While I\\nwas in Paris, a great agitation was going on in\\nthe newspapers concerning the feasibility of an\\nelectric route across the Place de la Gnucorde.\\nThe project was most violently opposed by a\\nlarge number, but I think it will be put through\\nin time.\\nOne of these electric lines leads to St. Denis, st,\\ncity of about sixty th usand inhabitants and a\\nprosperous indui^trial-center. Both the route\\nthereto and the city itself are very unattractive\\nthere is nothing whatever to please the eye, and\\nthere would, I presume, be few visitors in this\\ndirection were it not for the antique cathedral\\nor Basilique, which is interesting as being the\\nburial place of the ancient kings.\\nThe monuments that mark these royal rest-\\ning-places, (though in some cases the bodies\\nhave bt^ en removed,) are within the cathedral\\nand, in many instances, of rare and exquisite de-\\nsign and execution; others are more curious and\\ninteresting than beautiful, while most of them\\nare more or less imposing.\\nA very singular feature is noticeable in one or\\ntwo of the larger and more elaborate tombs this\\nis the representation, in addition to life-sized\\nfigures of the commemorated majesties in full\\ncoronation-robes, of a second set of life-sized\\nfigures of the same personages in recumbent pos-\\nture and, in fact, at the moment of death. These\\nlast are intensely realistic, nearly nude, with\\nconvulsed limbs and distorted countenances, and\\npresent a grewsome and ghastly spectacle.\\nThis cathedral is one of the few places either\\nin or about Paris, where visitors are not permit-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "62 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nted to go about without a guide. It seems a\\npity to have it so anywhere, because the profes-\\nsional guide always hurries one on so, in order,\\nI suppose, to receive the gratuities of ore party\\nand be ready for the next. Then if you happen\\nto ask him an unexpected question, he is all put\\nout and has to go back and begin over again.\\nThe Basilique of St. Denis occupies the tradi-\\ntional site of a chapel erected about the year 275\\nabove the grave of St. Dionysius or Denis, the\\nfirst bishop of Paris, who suffered martyrdom in\\n270 on a hill famous in the annals of Paris, now\\nknown as Butte Ilontin artre,\\\\i\\\\\\\\t formerly Mons\\nMartyrum or Mons Martis.\\nSt. Denis may also be reached by railway if\\none prefers, as may almost any of the suburbs.\\nThe tramway is cheaper but takes more time. I,\\nmyself, usually choose the latter mode of trans-\\nportation because it leads more directly among\\nthe people, winding in and around through the\\nbusy streets and stopping wherever one may\\nsuddenly wish to pursue some side line of ex-\\nploration.\\nTo St. Cloud, Versailles and Sevres, I went\\nby team- tram this is a very pleasant route,\\ntaking one through charming little suburban\\ncenters and affording a lovely prospect of semi-\\nrural scenes. One may also go by boat on the\\nSeine, a most inexpensive method and delight-\\nful in the season; J, however, found it too chilly\\nfor this during my stay in Paris.\\nServes is a charming village, picturesque in\\nitself and specially interesting as being the place\\nwhere ihe lovely Sevres porcelain is made. The\\nmanufactory has been the property of the gov-\\nernment since 1756. The exhibition-rooms con-\\ntain exquisite and pricele.-s specimens of this\\nlovely vi are, but the work-shops are not fully", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 63\\nthrown open to the public, the most interesting\\nprocesses being kept secret. The present build-\\ning is compartively modern; the old manufac-\\ntory, at a little distance, is now refitted and\\nused as a normal-school for young women.\\nSt. Germain, St. Cloud, Fontainebleau, Ver-\\nsailles and the Trianons what a flood of recol-\\nlections rushes through the mind of the lover of\\nhistory and romance at the very names. It\\nseemed so wonderful to think I was actually\\nthere I, who first saw the light thousands of\\nleagues away across mountain, moor and main,\\nlong, long years after the startling events, thrill-\\ning spectacles and brilliant pageants that fol-\\nlowed in such swift succession within the\\nboundaries of these royal residences, had\\nwrought their destined effect in the history of\\nmankind and, with all their actors, had vanished\\nforever into the impenetrable past.\\nBirths, marriages, revolutions, bloodshed,\\ndeath, all have had their turn in these spacious\\nareas lying here now so peacefully silent, and\\nstill the sun shines down and the leaves rustle\\nand the fountains play unaltered.\\nWhat a long line of ghostly footsteps go steal-\\ning down the quiet avenues. They do not dis-\\nturb the gay and thoughtless, modern pleasure-\\nseekers who scarce remember, if they ever knew,\\nthe noted names, famous and infamous, once so\\nfamiliar throughout all the length and breadth\\nof the known world.\\nLouises VII., XIII., XIV., XV., and XVI.,\\nFrancis I., Henrys III. and IV., Charles V., Na-\\npoleons I. and III., Louis Philippe, Pius VII.,\\nQueen Christine, Marshall Biron, the Grande\\nConde, Voltaire, Pompadour, Du Barri, Charles\\nX., Marie Antoinette, Bluecher, Josephine,\\nhow vain to try to complete the roll, to recall the\\ninnuaierable multitude, but all are gone.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "64 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nYet the influence of their lives and fortunes\\ngoes on for good or evil, and the world can\\nnever be as if they had not been\\nIn thope days more or less ancient, these lovely\\npleasure-grounds and elegant chdteaus were\\nfar removed from the bustle and turmoil of what\\nwas even then called the great and wonderful\\ncity, but to-day we scarcely know when we have\\nleft the city proper behind us and entered into\\nthe environs. Everywhere are similar, beautiful\\nand interesting scenes; everywhere the busy\\nstreets and the thronging people.\\nI have seen no baby-cubs as yet in the streets\\nof Paris. Babies there are in hosts, and the\\nparks, or gardens as they are termed, are\\nswarming with children of all sizes and condi-\\ntions in all weathers. Perhaps the baby-cabs\\nand the bicycles are waiting for the summer,\\nthough I should think these lovely spring days\\nmight bring them out. The babies are borne in\\nthe arms of a bonve, usually a gayly arrayed\\nfemale in a long, full cloak of soft, bright cloth^\\nno bonnet, but a snowy muslin or lace cap hand-\\nsomely fluted and decorated with very broad,\\nbrilliant ribbons that stream downward over the\\nback of her attire. The babies themselves are\\nall in white white, close bonnets with funny-\\nlittle white pompons standing up stitf and defi-\\nant, white cloaks, white veils and white mittens;\\nthey cuddle down comfortably in the arms of the\\nbonne as she strides along, and view the world\\nwith complacent eyes. Imagine the disgusted\\ndismay of the average United States nurse-\\ngirl, were it even suggested that she perform\\nlike service.\\nThe cats of Paris seem to be a favor* d set of\\nfelines fat and frisky, saucy and sleek, of un-\\ncommon size and possessing unusually long,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 65\\nthick fur, they challenge admiration in restau-\\nant, shop, and even in the parks, by their naajes-\\ntic presence and condescendingly sociable ways.\\nOne magnificent, great, brindled fellow took it\\nupon himself to superintend my breakfasts at a\\ndelightful little cremerie to which he was at-\\ntached. Seated upon a chair near by, and sing-\\ning charmingly the while, he gravely inspected\\nmy operations as I disposed of my coffee and\\nroll. He would accept proffered morsels most\\npolitely, but evidently only to avoid mortifying\\nme by a refusal, for he never ate them but\\ndeposited them at his feet where he gazed upon\\nthem pensively from time to time. When I later\\nwent to another part of the city, I much re-\\ngretted severing my connection with his catship,\\nbut had the satisfaction of knowing he was well\\ncared for. Indeed these animals seem every-\\nwhere to be treated with the utmost deference.\\nI did not see a starved or frightened looking cat\\nwhile I was in the city. Even the dogs seem to\\nregard them with profound respect.\\nBut the horses, the poor horses How they\\nare whacked and lashed both with whip and\\ntongue how weighed down and overtasked\\nwith impossible loads on these stony, slippery\\nstreets where there is no foothold for them. I\\nhave seen them fall again and again only to be\\nkicked and pounded and cursed until they\\nshould struggle up from their poor, broken\\nknees. It makes one s heart ache.\\nI have seen only five colored persons during\\nmy sojourn here amidst this vast multitude of\\npeople. This seems strange to a resident of\\neven the northern United States, and compared\\nwith my experience last winter in the region of\\norange and palm, in our southern section, where\\nthe very atmosphere seems darkened by their", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "66 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nomnipresence, their absence here is conspicuous.\\nBy the way it is rather amusing to note how\\nforeigners universally confuse our northern and\\nsouthern states with North and South America.\\nOne can scarcely bring them to comprehend that\\na resident of a southern state is not a South\\nAmerican.\\nThen others, on learning that I am an Ameri-\\ncan, have been quite astonished to find that I\\nhave no extensive personal acquaintance with\\nthe red Indian. I have met, however, with\\nthis latter species of astonishment at home m\\nour own New England, where surely it is inex-\\ncusable, and one would suppose impossible to per-\\nsons of the intelligence and general information\\nof the average New Englander. But it is a\\nfact that he, and I do not know but that I may\\nalso without error include the Middle Statesian,\\noften looks upon his compatriot outside these\\nspecified localities, as being but little, if at all,\\nremoved from barbarism. I do not think such\\na state of opinion concerning their fellow-coun-\\ntrymen prevails among inhabitants of different\\nsections of other countries, but this is a di-\\ngression.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VIII.\\nThe season of the carnival is celebrated with\\nmuch vigor in Paris. All sorts of practical\\njokes seem to be in order, and the throwing of\\ncovfetti, minute disks of thin, bright-colored\\npaper, into unexpecting faces never fails to\\nproduce convulsive merriment in the beholders,\\nwhile the recipients take it, according to their\\ntemperaments, with smiles or wrath.\\nThe streets looked very festive with the vari-\\ncolored showers everywhere pervading and the\\ngay streamers of tinted paper twined and inter-\\ntwined and floating from every possible niche,\\nnook, angle and projection of column, gable\\nand tree.\\nIt seemed to be a point of honor for everybody\\nto seize any such floating streamer within his\\nreach and carry it onward with him until it\\nshould snap from the strain, when it would be\\nwound around the neck or wrist of the captor,\\nadding to the jubilant appearance of the throng.\\nA year before, I w^as in New Orleans during\\nthe carnival-time and, though Parisians have the\\nname of being the gayest people in the world,\\nstill it has seemed to me that here they did not\\nappear so joyous and light-hearted as the merry\\ncrowds in that southern city. In fact, much of\\nthe Parisian fun seemed to be largely of a lower\\ngrade and there was much intoxication observ-\\nable both in men and women.\\nThe street-parades in New Orleans too, were\\nmore beautiful, strange though this may seem,\\nfor of course, taste, ingenuity and expense to\\n67", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "68 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthe wildest extravagance, are b}^ no means defi-\\ncient here in Paris. I fancy climate has some-\\nthing to do with the character of the festival\\nhere the skies were of a chilly blue and the wind\\nwas too strong for comfort, while there the\\ngenial sun was shining prodigally, the air was\\nsoft and balmy, and inanimate nature as well as\\nman himself seemed to rejoice.\\nOf course all sorts of gay parties, hal masques\\nand extravagancies wax fast and furious in these\\nthe closing days of the carnivale, or farewell\\nto the flesh. I did not see or hear of anything\\nin Paris corresponding to the beautiful pageant\\nat this season in New Orleans, when Rex and\\nhis royal retinue approach the city in a fine \u00c2\u00abhip\\nand are welcomed with pomp and splendor as\\nthe keys of the city are presented to him.\\nIn New Orleans the queen of the carnival is\\nchosen from the ranks of refined society, as a\\nfew years ago when the daughter of Jefferson\\nDavis figured in that role; but I was surprised\\nto learn that here in Paris the choice is made\\nfrom the blanchissevses, or in plain English, the\\nwasherwomen. In the middle of Lent in this\\npart of the world, there is a relaxation period\\nwhich, I think, does not obtain widely, if at all,\\nin the United States, and this is called Mi-Car-\\neme. Then come more parades, more confetti,\\nanother washerwoman is chosen queeia and the\\ncommunity is given over again to the world,\\nthe flesh and the de lights of feasting and\\nrevelry for a few hours, when sackcloth and\\nashes are supposed to prevail once more until\\nEaster Sunday. V\\nSunday as we understand it at home does\\nnot exist in Paris. That the day has come is\\nmanifested by an increased jubilance and hilarity\\nthroughout the boulevards and avenues. True", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 69\\nthere are services in the churches, but so there are\\non so many other days that this is no distinction.\\nMost places of businetrs are open if not in active\\noperation and many reserve their most brilliant\\ndisplays for this day. There are a few excep-\\ntions, however, chiefly among American and\\nEnglish houses.\\nFailing one Sunday to secure a copy of the\\nNeiD York Herald at the news-stands, I\\nthought I would step into the office on the\\nAvenue de V Opera to get one. Arriving\\nthere, though the place did not seem to\\nbe formally closed, I yet found myself unable\\nto open the door for the simple reason that the\\noutside part of the handle was missing. This\\nhad exactly the same effect as might be in case\\nof the traditional latch-siring when pulled in;\\nthere was nothing on which one could lay hold\\nto raise the latch. This was so very peculiar a\\nsituation that I was undecided as to whether\\nit might not be accidental, instead of being meant\\nto keep out visitors.\\nA number of gentlemen were standing outside,\\nreading through the windows the news-sheets\\nthat are always displayed close to the glass and,\\nafter much cogitation as to the form of my\\nphrase, I finally mustered courage to address one\\nof them for information, so in my very best\\nFrench I asked him if he could tell me whether\\nthe office were really closed. To my surprise he\\nturned red, looked embarrassed and at last said\\nin broken French, I do not understand.\\nOh, said I in my native tongue, you are\\nEnglish.\\nNo, he replied, American, from Mich-\\nigan.\\nI then told him I was his neighbor from\\nWisconsin, and we both, strangers though we", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "70 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwere, indulged in a little laugh over our painful\\nand needless struggles to communicate in French.\\nBut 1 did not get into the Herald office.\\nOne unique characteristic in public worship\\nhere fills the average American mind with\\namazement and, I fear, amusement. This is the\\nemployment of beadles, or Svisses, who are a\\nregular feature in all the great churches of Paris.\\nThey are usually very large, finely-built men\\nand are most gorgeously attired. They serve in\\npairs as nearly matched as possible in height and\\nsize, and it is a sight to be remembered to be-\\nhold them stepping out in their rich velvet,\\ngold-trimmed dress-coats, their marvelous, long\\nwaist-coats and superb continuations, as\\nDickens has it, their delicate stockings, won-\\nderful cocked-hats and buckled shoes.\\nEach wears a lengthy gold chain and bears a\\nheavy, glittering baton of office, about five feet\\nlong, and at certain points in the service, such\\nas conducting the celebrant to and from the\\naltar, or taking the collections, they precede the\\nline of attendants and at each step, bring down\\ntheir heavy rods to the floor with a grand thud\\nthat is most impressive. Their office seems to\\nbe purely ornamental as, except to head and es-\\ncort these various personages and processions\\nabout the church, they perform no service what-\\never. They deign not themselves to handle the\\nlittle velvet bags into which are dropped the\\ncontributions of the congregation. No, indeed!\\nThis inferior duty is performed by what, I pre-\\nsume, they consider inferior creatures, that is,\\nby women, who meekly trot about after their\\nhigh-mightinesses and deprecatingly present the\\nbags to each of the spectators.\\nThe theaters and all places of entertainment\\nare in full blast on Sunday, both matinees and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 71\\nevening performances being given at most of\\nthero. During the week they are open nightly\\nand, in a few instances, for a Thursday matinee\\nand are always crowded.\\nAt the Opera House are the grandest and most\\nimposing spectacles; the Odeon is devoted prin-\\ncipally to the classic drama, while the Theatre\\nFrancais is noted for the elegance and purity of\\nits diction. The Vaudevilles, Theatres des\\nVarietes and des Oaite, the music-halls and the\\nCafes-Concerts are of course, without end.\\nIt looked very odd to me to see men sitting\\nduring the play with their hats on, and also to\\nsee both men and women leave their places be-\\ntween acts and pass into the halls and foyers for\\npromenading and refreshment. No orchestra is\\nvisible at any theater that I have visited, though\\n-audible from behind the scenes. In some parts\\nof the theater, ladies are obliged to remove their\\nhats; in others, one must appear in full dress or\\nbe refused admittance; there are women in at-\\ntendance to take charge of one s wraps for a\\nsmall fee, which however is not a definite charge,\\nbut regulated by the patron s means or generos-\\nity. I had a somewhat mortifying and yet\\namusing experience at one of my visits to the\\ntheater. I had gone in haste and omitted to as-\\ncertain as usual the contents of my purse before\\nstarting out. Not until I went to claim my\\nwraps after the performance, and had opened\\nmy pocket-book to tip the attendant, did I be-\\ncome aware that 1 had nothing whatever therein,\\nover and above my fare home, but two insignifi-\\ncant bronze coins equal to about a cent and a\\nhalf of United States money.\\nIn vain I held my empty purse open depreca-\\ntingly before the eyes oi: the lofty and important\\nfunctionary who, in all her dignity of be-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "72 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nstarched and be-f rilled cap and apron, was wait-\\ning my favors while I eagerly sought to explain\\nin my halting French, how I had neglected to pro-\\nvide myself with money, and how annoyed and\\nsorry I was to be unable to recompense her in a\\nfitting manner she would have none of my\\nexplanations; she only conceived that I was of-\\nfering her that insultingly trifling sum, and she\\nbrushed aside all my apologies with the freez-\\ningly sarcastic words: Since you are so pooi\\\\\\nMadame, what a scathing emphasis there\\nwas on chose two words as she measured me\\nfrom head to foot taking in my somewhat festal\\nattire! I will take pity on you; you may\\nkeep your seven centimes V Humbled and\\nabashed, I crept away but my keen enjoyment\\nof the utter absurdity of the situation was a\\nmost happy mitigation of the crushing effects of\\nthe dame s disdainful irony.\\nIn some of the theaters one must pay extra\\nfor a program, but at the Opera and the Franca is\\nat least, these are furnished free of charge.\\nThe feature in Paris theaters the hardest, I\\nthink, for Americans to understand, is the\\nclaque, or company of paid applauders.\\nThey usually sit, I am told, in the center of\\nthe house, underneath the great chandelier.\\nThey lead off at intervals with vigorous rounds\\nof applause, most vigorous if failing to elicit\\naddr-d applause from the general audience. I\\nunderstand that many attempts have been made\\nto abolibh this singular custom,all of which have\\nthus far failed.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX.\\nFunerals here are dismally pompous affairs and\\nyet they do not seem solemn. The ceremonies\\nare so overdone and the mechanism so apparent\\nthat the force of the pageant is lost.\\nGoing to the Madeleine one Sunday, I found\\nthe whole imposing front of that classic edifice\\ncovered by two great black curtains looped back\\nin the center. These were edged with white\\nfringe and had a wide border in Grecian key pat-\\ntern.\\nOn the broad, colonnaded portico stood a\\nlarge table with like Governing, and here sat a\\nbeing in an immense black cocked-hat trimmed\\nto match, as were his long waistcoat, knee-\\nbreeches and swallow-tailed coat. His gloves\\nwere white, his long hose were black and he\\nwore low, black shoes with frosted buckles. He\\nseemed to be the master of ceremonies. Fancy\\nour decorous and unassuming funeral directors\\nin the United States, tricked out in this manner.\\nInside the building were two grand and awful\\npersonages in the same depressing garb, each\\nbearing a huge staff with black streamers. The\\ndemeanor of these mighty-seeming ones, how-\\never, did not comport with their majestic ap\\npearance. for they ambled about hither and yon\\nand seemed, to use a plebeian but forcible ex-\\npression, to be sticking their noses into every-\\nthing.\\nA number of persons were standing about\\nhere and there, others walking around, still\\nothers sitting; (by the way, if you take a seat\\n73", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "74 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nin any of these churches, you must pay three\\ncents, which is collected during service when-\\never one sits down all were staring.\\nIn the center of the church stood a high bier\\nheavily draped, as was the interior of the build-\\ning everywhere, in the black, white-fringed and\\nbordered trappings of woe. Innumerable can-\\ndles in tall, massive holders faintly illuminated\\nthis bier and the high altar.\\nWith the melancholy reflections naturally\\nsuggested by these symbols of mortality, I gazed\\nupon the bier, supposing of course that upon its\\ntop and draped by that heavy pall, rested the\\npulseless form of one who would tread life s\\npaths no more. There was some music to be\\nheard at intervals but no one paid any attention\\nto it. There were no mourners visible, no one\\nseeming to have any closer connection with the\\ndeceased than the hired functionaries and the\\ncareless spectators.\\nAll this time, men, evidently workmen, were\\nrunning to and fro in the church and continually\\nbreaking in upon what should have been the sol-\\nemnity of the occasion. After some time two\\nof these men, going up to the catafalque, as I\\nsupposed to lift from off it the casket, stooped\\ndown instead, flung up the drapery, revealing\\na flimsy, cheap, unpainted framework, and there\\nunderneath upon the bare floor stood a plain\\nwooden coffin. This they shoved out by means\\nof feet and hands into the aisle, where some more\\nmen got hold of it and began to carry it out.\\nAt the same time other men commenced pul-\\nling down the bier, piling up its light timbers\\nand rolling up the drapery; others extinguished\\nthe tapers, dis -losing thereby that they were\\nbut candle-ends stuck into long tubes simulat-\\ning candles; others still grabbed up the heavy", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 75\\ncandle-sticks. whereby I saw that they were only\\nwood silvered over, and others again appeared\\nin the upper galleries and, runring along on\\nthe wide cornices, began to rip oft the heavy\\ncurtains with all possible speed, throwing them\\nto the floor,thus dislodging much dust and niusti-\\nness and evoking consequent numberless sneezes\\nthrough the sacred edifice as the men devoted\\nthemselves to bundling up everything pertaining\\nto the occasion, getting it outside with great\\ncelerity. All this while the body was yet on its\\nway to the door and the congregation still stand-\\ning about within the church.\\nWith the current of my thoughts effectually\\nchanged I went outside, narrowly escaping beinij\\nknocked over by the hurrying workmen with\\ntheir heavy loads. Finding a safe spot I looked\\ndown from the imposing colonnade upon the\\nbroad, bright avenues below.\\nA long line of mouraing-coaches was drawn\\nup in waiting, each almost hidden beneath black,\\nwhite-edged draperies, and provided with horses\\nalso nearly concealed under similar funereal\\nhousings while, attired like the beadles in\\ncocked hats, knee-breeches and all the appurten-\\nances, the coachmen sat upon their boxes gloomily\\nmonumental. A few men clad in the same style\\nwalked at each side near the head of the cortege\\nimmediately following the huge, grewsomely\\ndecorated hearse was a long double row of men\\nand women on foot after these came other heav-\\nily and lugubriously draped carriages.\\nThus was this solemn ceremony conducted at\\nthe Madeleine, that classically beautiful and his-\\ntorically interesting pile, one of the finest and\\nmost important of the sacred temples of Paris.\\nSince then I have seen many another Paris-\\nian funeral where there was not even the impos-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "76 ONE WOMA.N WANDERING\\ning effect of a large scale of operations, yet they\\nwere all carried on in the same ponderou-; and\\nartificial manner, the grandeur and extent of she\\ndisplay being, I suppose, regulated by the purse\\nof the afflicted family.\\nWe talk of funeral reform at home, but after\\nwitnessing such a mechanical and cumbersomely\\ndreadful pageant, our most elaborate method\\nseems simplicity itself and at any rate with us\\nthere is a gravity and a quietude of procedure\\nthat causes no jar to the tenderest sensibilities\\nby its too obvious machinery.\\nThe Madeline is not an ancient edifice as anti-\\nquity is reckoned abroad. Founded but little\\nover a century ago in 1764, its construction con-\\ntinued until 1842. I lingered within the stately\\nportico through which already have passed such\\ninnumerable multitudes, the distinguished, the\\nrenowned, the insignificant, to mingle with the\\nceaseless stream below in activity, or to be borne\\non, silent and passive, never to return.\\nThe soft spring sunshine fell peacefully down,\\nlighting up roof and pavement, pillar, facade\\nand people with a faint glow. The long funeral\\ntrain moved off in its progress toward the dis-\\ntant cemetery. As it wound along the brilliant\\nboulevards a strange quiet fell upon the hubbub\\nand unrest of the changeful scene. Men bared\\ntheir heads men, women and children crossed\\nthemselves and stood silent. Such is the custom\\nhere. It has a singular effect sometimes in the\\nmidst of the gay, busy, hurrying thro og.\\nThe principal cemeteries of Paris perhaps, are\\nthose of Pere Lavhaise^ Montinartre^ Montpar-\\nwasseand Ficpus, of which the first is easily the\\nleader. There are in all, I understand, about\\ntwenty-two or three.\\nThe space parceled out as one lot in these cem-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WONDERING 77\\neteries is limited in the extreme, and the large and\\nimposing memorials huddled together in conse-\\nquence, present a disorderly and uncomfortable\\nspectacle to one accustomed to the usual spacious\\nareas and almost boundless vistas of America s\\nbroad acres. There is, I am told, an average of\\nnearly one hundred graves required daily in\\nParis, so that the above burial spots would be\\ngreatly inadequate, were it not that the poor are\\ncommitted to the Fosses Uommicnes, or Public\\nTrenches, large pits each containing from forty\\nto fifty coffins.\\nBaedeker informs us that burials in such com-\\nmon graves now take place outside the precincts\\nof the city only.\\nBurial-places for the individual are secured in\\na variety of ways, of which outright purchase,\\nthe ordinary method among us, is rare and diffi-\\ncult. A Concession a perpetuite, or perpetual\\nprivilege, granting a very small, private burial-\\nplace of twenty-two and one-half square feet,\\nmay be obtained for about two hundred dollars,\\nthe price of each additional square meter(about\\neleven and one-third square feet), beyond six, is\\nsix hundred dollars. A Concession Trentenaire\\nproviding that a grave shall remain undisturbed\\nfor thirty years, may be had for sixty dollars a\\nConcession Teniporaire for five years, ten dol-\\nlars. After the time of each limited concession\\nhas expired, unless it is renewed, ihe bones must\\nbe removed to the Fosses Communes to make\\nplace for more recent interments for which those\\ninterested will pay the price.\\nSo the majority of graves are practically only\\nrented and, as in life, if the rent is unpaid, out\\nyou go. This, I dare say, seems as shocking to my\\nsuppositious sister asit did to me when I first\\nlearned it; if so, she will be surprised to hear", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "78 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthat I did not come upon this state of things\\nfirst abroad, but in our own city of New Orlenns,\\nwhicli lias so many truly French customs. I be-\\nlieve like arrangements prevail to more or less\\nextent, in most crowded cities abroad.\\nAll this has given rise to a number of burial\\nassociations, the members of which contribute\\nto a fund for the purchase of a plot of ground in\\na cemetery, whereon is erected a general tomb\\nprovided with receptacles for a certain number\\nof bodies. This arrangement like many other\\nwholesale dealings, comes much cheaper than\\nthe individual purchase singly, and assures each\\nmember of an undisturbed place of repose after\\nlife s fitful fever.\\nTo quote a popular hand-book, all burials\\nwithin the Department of the Seine are con-\\nducted by a certain Funeral Organization whose\\ncharges are regulated by tariff varying from\\nsixty cents to nearly fifteen hundred dollars,\\nexclusive of the price of the coffin and the offici-\\nating clergyman s fee. Two chaplains are at-\\ntached to each cemetery for the gratuitous per-\\nformance of the burial rites of the poor.\\nPere Lachaise, or the Cimetiere de V Est, is\\nthe largest and most interesting of Paris ceme-\\nteries. It is named after Father Lachaise, the\\nJesuit confessor of Louis XIV., and occupies the\\nsite of that prelate s country-seat. It lies on a\\nlow, undulating hill at the extreme east end of\\nthe city, within the walls. It has an area of\\none hundred and ten acres and contains more\\nthan twenty thousand monuments, many of\\nwhich are deeply interesting as memorials of\\ngreat personages, while others are noteworthy\\non account of artistic excellence.\\nHow touching here as everywhere, the vain\\nattempt to keep in the memor}^ of man, that", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 79\\nexistence which, however dear and necessary to\\nits own bereaved circle, has yet left no other\\ninfluence to impress the world at large. Others\\nthere are whose lives shall never be forgotten,\\nand large indeed is the number of these who\\nhere rest from their labors. How startling the\\nwondrous array of illustrious names that gleams\\nforth at every turn.\\nSinger, soldier, scholar and statesman poet,\\nphilosopher, priest and painter actor, artist,\\nauthor and ambassador; astronomer and archae-\\nologist composer and consul who could recount\\nthem all? To think that this dust beneath our\\nfeet enshrines the mortal housings of every\\nphase of divine genius, of dauntless bravery, of\\nexalted excellence, that the world has ever\\nknown. All at the same level now and whirled\\naround resistless from sun to sun, with rocks,\\nand stones, and trees. But thanks be to God\\nWho giveth us the victory through our Lord\\nJesus Christ,\\nIt is in this cemetery that are interred the\\nbodies of Abelard and Heloise who, in spite of\\ntheir varying fortunes and their phenomenal\\ngifts and learning, are remembered chiefly by\\nmankind in general, through the piteous tale of\\ntheir most woeful love. Their recumbent statues\\nlie upon a sarcophagus beneath a Gothic canopy,\\nall of dark marble, and re-constructed by Lenoir\\nfrom fragments of an old monument.\\nUpon the tomb of Alfred de Mus-^et are in-\\nscribed his own beautiful lines which may be\\nfreel}^ translated as follows:\\nDear friends, I pray, when I shall die\\nPlant near my grave a willow tree\\nI love its rustle sweetly sad,\\nIts leafage pale is dear to me.\\nIts shadows soft shall lightly rest\\nUpon the earth above my breast.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "80 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nHis wish is gratified for a willow gently mur-\\nmurs above his dust.\\nOver the grave of Paul Baudry is a bronze\\nbust and statue with the following brief but\\ntouching inscription upon the pedestal\\nGlory hath crowned thee, and I, I mourn\\nthee, alas! a widow alone with my babes.\\nAn attempt to depict the wonderful beauties\\nand artistic perfections so lavishly displayed\\nhere as elsewhere, does not come within the\\nprovince of this unpretending manual; and\\nsmall need is there that it should, in view of the\\ngifted and exhaustive works already published\\nalong these lines. Sometimes, as one wanders\\non in a scene which, though in itself unfamiliar,\\nmay yet be a type of others better known, and\\nwith the mind prepared for a certain sameness\\nand routine in objects and occurrences, there\\nwill occasionally start forth something a little dif-\\nferent, thus specially attracting one s attention,\\nthough in detail it may be nothing particularly\\nnoteworthy. To record such intelligibly and\\npossibly with some interest to another as they\\nstrike me, is all that I can hope to achieve.\\nA very odd and conspicuous monument is to\\nbe seen at the western end of the Avenue Trans-\\nversale, No. 1, and is visible so far away as the\\nArc cV Etoile in the Champs Ely sees. It con-\\nsists of a huge pyramid one hundred and five\\nfeet high, and was erected to himself at a cost\\nof twenty thousand dollars, by Felix de Beau-\\njour, formerly a consul. Strange to say, this\\nwork is popularly known as the sugar-bread.\\nThere is a Jewish cemetery includefl within\\nthe boundaries of Pere Lachaise and in this\\nportion is the family tomb of the noted Roths-\\nchilds. Madame Rachel, the great tragedien7ie,\\nis also buried here.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 81\\nAt the extreme north end of Pere Lachaise is\\nsituated a Crematory which though unfinished,\\nhas been in use i^ince 1889. I am told that the\\nprocess of cremation lasts one hour and is accom-\\nplished by means of refracted heat from a fire\\nof eight hundred degrees.\\nThe flames do not touch the corpse. The\\nashes left weigh about one twelfth of the origi-\\nnal weight of the body. The cost, including\\nthe right to a niche for five j ears, is from ten\\nto fifty dollars.\\nThe Cemetery of Montmartre^ or CimQtiere\\ndu JVord, lies above the city upon the hill of\\nthat name so famous in the annals of Paris. It\\nis much smaller than Lachaise, but has many\\ninteresting features. Just aside from the main\\nentrance are four tombs containing the remains\\nof seventy Polish refugees, the first tomb bear-\\ning the inscription in Latin, May an avenger\\none day spring from our ashes. Horace Ver-\\nnet and Paul Delaroche are buried here, also\\nAry Scheffer, Eenan, Heinrich Heine, Carlotta\\nPatti, Samson, the actor, Theophile Gautier,\\nand many others of fame. Oce of the inscrip-\\ntions on the latter s tomb, runs something after\\nthis fashion\\nThe bird departs, the leaflet falls.\\nAnd Love has fled before the chill\\nThou little bird, when trees bud new,\\nAbove my grave, Oh! warble still.\\nThe Cemetery of Montparnasse, or the Cime-\\ntiere du Sud, is much less beautiful and romantic\\nin location than the two preceding. Here are\\nburied the sculptor Eude and Henri Martin, the\\nhistorian also Henri Gregoire, afterward Bishop\\nof Blois, one of the first of the clergy to swear\\nfealty to the new constitution in 1790.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "82 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nNot far from the entrance, behind a small\\npyramid, is an enclosed space devoted to the\\ngraves of Sisters of Charity. Among these\\nrests Sister Rosalie Rendu who was decorated by\\nthe Legion of Honor, in recognition of her de-\\nvoted services in the Crimea.\\nThere is a curious old structure at a consider-\\nable distance toward the right of the principal\\navenue it is the tower of an old mill belonging\\nto a convent of Freres de St. Jeon-de-Dieu.\\nFor some reason not ascertained by me, it has\\nalways been allowed to remain here in spite of\\nincongruity.\\nTwo large monuments stand opposite each\\nother in the newer part of the cemetery, one\\ncommemorating all soldiers who have died in\\ndefence of France, the other, all firemen who\\nhave perished in execution of their duties.\\nIn the little cemetery of Picpus are interred\\nmany of the oldest families of France. Here\\nsleeps Lafayette, so dear to American hearts.\\nAt one end of the inclosure, are buried thirteen\\nhundred victims of the Revolution who perished\\nby the guillotine. Among these are the poet\\nAndre Chenier, the chemist Lavoisier, General\\nBeauharnais, and many others long known to\\nfame.\\nThe Cemetery of Passy, situated in the lofty\\nand beautiful suburb of that name, is quite pe-\\nculiar in location. One reaches it by means of\\na long flight of solid stone steps, broken into\\nshort lengths. Arriving at the top, one does\\nnot come directly into the cemetery but seems to\\nhave entered a different world, so sharp is the\\ncontrast between the little streets of tiny, pic-\\nturesque homes upon the hill, and the broad,\\nimposing avenues of stately mansions one has\\njust left below. One soon turns in at the right", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 83\\nand enters the quiet and lovely little city of the\\ndead, where are many fine monuments.\\nHere just beyond the entrance, is the mauso-\\nleum of the gifted and erratic Marie Bashkirtseff,\\nwhich was designed by Emile Bastien-Lepage.\\nAn exterior of pale marble is covered with florid\\nornamentation of various sorts, scattered flowers,\\nwreaths, butterflies, draperies and so forth.\\nUpon one fagade are graven two stanzas, one\\nfrom Andre Theuriet, the other from E, Ducross.\\nThe interior is a pleasant chamber perhaps\\ntwelve feet square, illuminated by large stained-\\nglass windows and a glass door covered wnth\\nmetal grill-work through which one can see dis-\\ntinctly all within. Here in the tempered light\\nmay be seen a life-sized bust of this young gen-\\nius whose earthly course was so brief. It stands\\nupon a sort of altar whereon also rest her palette,\\nher manuscript diary, a laurel wreath and other\\nrelics. One or two graceful chairs stand about\\nand a cushion or so disposed here and there,\\nwith a guitar carelessly resting at one side, give\\nan attractive, occupied seeming to the place\\nand one almost looks to see the young girl enter\\nto resume some one of the varied pursuits of her\\nmany-sided character. The structure is finished\\nwith a graceful dome, minarets rise from the\\nfour corners and a glittering metal cross sur-\\nmounts the whole.\\nIn all the cemeteries that I have visited,\\nI have noticed another marked difference in the\\nway of decoration, between foreign taste and\\nour own. Even in Pere Lachaise, so renowned\\nfor its sculptured marvels, where monuments of\\nrare beauty testify to cultured taste as well as\\nloving heart- are to be seen hanging upon the\\nsepulchers, huge garlands and wreaths of tin\\nand iron beads fashioned and colored into a re-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "84 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nmote semblance of natural flowers. They fairly\\nset one s teeth on edge. But there are others\\nstill more dreadful, of crockery, also intended to\\nsimulate floral offerings.\\nThe most appalling of all are great, solid circles,\\nor rather, rings, their surfaces variegated with\\na faint suggestion of closely set petals, colored\\nyellow, and perhap-5 supposed to represent im-\\nmortelles as if they were not frightful enough\\nof themselves, they are frequently converted into\\na veritable nightmare by being wrapped in isome\\ncoarse, thin, black stuff that probably does duty\\nas crape.\\nIf these barbarous mementoes were to be seen\\nonly on humble graves, one might fancy that\\nlimited means had occasioned the use of a dur-\\nable substitute for the perishable beauty of na-\\nural leaf and bloom, but as a matter of fact, I\\nbelieve these set pieces are not inexpensive, and\\nas before stated, they may be seen upon the\\nmost costly tombs. I must sny, however, that I\\nsaw this same incomprehensible style of decora-\\ntion in the old cemeteries at New Orleans upon\\nFrench tombs. How is it that the French, who\\nhave such a world-wide reputation for exquisite\\ntaste, should be able to find satisfaction in the\\nuse of these hideous objects?\\nI notice in each of the different cemeteries\\nhere, at some prominent part of the grounds, a\\nsimple but beautiful monument reared to the\\nmemory of all those who have no other monu-\\nment. This seems to me a tender and touching\\ntribute, the like of which I have not observed at\\nhome.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X,\\nGo where one will, one seems ever to be in the\\ngreat central midst of things. Everywhere one\\nfinds wide avenues and grand boulevards con-\\nverging into spacious and beautiful Places or\\nItond-Ponts and filled with great throngs com-\\ning and going, and yet somehow there does not\\nappear to be that everlasting rush and jostle\\nthat we notice in our own large cities.\\nThere are many beggars with their professional\\nwhine, and yet few compared to the population.\\nUpon the steps and within the porticoes of the\\nchurches, particularly the antique and venerable\\nones, do the beggars specially congregate, often\\neven within the edifice itself, having acquired a\\nsort of right of old and established usage from\\ntime immemorial, to display there their infirmi-\\nties and deformities to the worshiping and sight-\\nseeing multitudes.\\nSome, perhaps, of those who desire alms ought\\nnot to be called beggars, as they profess to give\\nsomething for one s money. It is somewhat\\nsurprising to see a man or woman, or both, sud-\\ndenly step out into the middle of a street and\\nall at once lift up voice or voices in stentorian\\nsong, after which contributions are solicited.\\nThe most annoying class are the street ped-\\ndlers they follow one for blocks, persi-siing in\\ntheir importunities. It will not do to not ce\\nthem by glnnce or word, even of courteous re-\\nfusal, as they will then dog one indefinitely, ar-\\nguing the case, hoping, I suppose, to weary\\none into purchasing. One may rid one s self of\\n85", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "86 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthem, I believe, by speaking to a gardien de\\nla paix, but this seems rather heavy artillery to\\nbring against the poor wretches, so one usually\\nendures in silence.\\nThere is another sort of street-vender who is\\nnot to be classed with the peddlers for he is an in-\\nstitution by himself. Hema^^ have garden pro-\\nduce for sale, he may be an old-ciothes-man\\nor a dog-barber, but whatever he is, he does not\\npester one unnecessarily he, or she, for per-\\nhaps it is a woman, and if so, bare-headed be-\\ntakes him down through the center of the street,\\npushing before him his goods or his tools, while\\never and again he gives vent to a most peculiar\\nrefrain consisting of a few set notes that ring\\nout high and strident, yet not without a certain\\nmelody, above the conglomerated noises of the\\nbusy thoroughfare. It is impossible to know\\nwhat he says; he has a patoia of his own. If,\\nfrom the looks of his wares, you desire his atten-\\ntion, he serves you at once politely,but he impor-\\ntunes nobody and goes on his way still warb-\\nling.\\nOne is constantly meeting in the streets, long\\nlines of boys and girls of all ages, being escorted\\nto and from their respective schools by their\\nteachers. I am told that during the first few\\nyears of childhood, the sexes are educated to-\\ngether in governmental schools. A little later a\\ndivision is effected and w^omen are appointed to\\nteach the girls while the boys are put under the\\ncharge of men, always, I believe of some clerical\\norder. Still later the girls finish their educa-\\ntion in the convents while the boys are sent to\\nthe universities. It looks odd to see these pro-\\ncessions of tall youths filing by, carefully con-\\nducted and watched over by half a dozen or so\\npriestly attendants, as if the lads were incapa-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 87\\nble of walking unharmed abont the streets alone.\\nIn their times of play, unless in the public gar-\\ndens, both lads and lassies are hidden by the\\nhigh, opaque walls of their respective schools\\nor homes, such a thing as a door-yard open to\\nthe public gaze, being unknown in Paris.\\nShop-boys have a fashion of bearing surpris-\\ning burdens on their heads, like our southern\\nnegroes. At a corner of two principal boule-\\nvards, amid all the elbowing and confusion of a\\ndensely packed crowd that had gathered to watch\\na carnival parade,! saw a baker s boy making his\\nway unconcernedly across the street, hands\\nthrust in pockets and upon his head a basket of\\ndelicate pastries about which he seemed to have\\nno consciousness whatever. When he came to a\\nmore than usually impenetrable part, he would\\ncalmly demand Is it that I may pass? and\\nsomehow pass he did with his burden unharmed.\\nSometimes you may see one with perhaps a load\\nof eggs or fresh butter upon his cranium, yet\\nwalking on and reading a newspaper with sub-\\nlime indiiference as to the perishable nature of\\nhis burden. Or, maybe one with basket of\\nsnowy linen will stop to watch a game or possi-\\nbly indulge in a few rounds himself, without in-\\njury to himself or his charge.\\nBread seems sometimes regarded as a literal as\\nwell as metaphorical staff of life. Often you\\nmay see a young fellow going along with a yard\\nortwoof this comestible in his hand, swinging\\nit like a cane or a woman will be coming down\\nthe street with a like thin, long roll clasped in\\nher arms or you may see it leaning against a\\ndoorway waiting to be taken in or two little\\nchildren will be skipping along, each bearing\\none end of it, like a stick of wood.\\nAnother thing that has surprised me some-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "88 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwhat, is the size of the average French woman s\\nfoot. There is no difficulty in getting a know-\\nledge of it, for the ladies of Paris hold their\\nskirts at a remarkable elevation from the pave-\\nment, and the fact is thereby revealed that in-\\nstead of posessing, as I had fancied from read-\\ning, tiny, dainty pedal extremities, they as a\\nrule have noticeably generous, substantial un-\\nderstandings. American shoes are considered\\nfar superior to all others and are advertised ac-\\ncordingly.\\nLadies and gentlemen walking together usually\\nlock arms even by day, reminding one of pic-\\ntures in old editions of Dickens and Thackeray.\\nI am told that this is generally customary on\\nthis side of the water. Very often, too, both\\nladies and gentlemen, forsaking the foot-pave-\\nments, betake themselves to the middle of the\\nstreet, down which they walk nonchalantly, evi-\\ndently deeming their right of way equal to that\\nof horsemen and vehicles.\\nJust now the shop-windows are full of curious\\ncartoons anent the first of April, though instead\\nof stigmatizing a gullible idiot, as we do, an\\nApril Fool, they here depict him or her as\\nimposed upon by a fish. I have wondered\\nwhether our term fish story might trace its\\norigin to this custom.\\nThe large magasins, or department stores, of\\nParis are interesting institutions. Besides their\\nwondrous displays of art and fashion in infi-\\nnite variety, many things in their arrangement\\nand management are peculiar. The Bon iMarche\\npronounced Bdw Marshy with a strong na-\\nsal twang, in the Rue de Bac. covers a large\\nsquare and is, perhaps, a model of its kind. Its\\nemployes are boarded at the place, with which\\nare connected dining room, kitchen and other", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 89\\ndomestic offices. Four repasts, I understand,\\nare served each, day, of excellent quality. A fine\\nand spacious reading-room made beautiful by\\nartistic decoration, painting, plants and bric-a-\\nbrac, is provided with stationery, current jour-\\nnals and periodicals for the benefit of shoppers.\\nThere are no fixed seats at the counters, as\\nwith us if a customer is given a chair it is\\neither as a special courtesy or on a special occa-\\nsion. There are no cash-carriers of any kind,\\nanimate or automatic each purchaser must ac-\\ncompany the clerk who has served one to the\\nbureau of that special department, where one\\npaj -s for and receives one s goods. Thjs en-\\ntails considerable extra walking and every step\\ncounts on the extremely slippery, hard-wood\\nfloors, but the custom does away in a great de-\\ngree with the long waits necessary incur stores,\\nduring which, as the jokers have it, one grows\\ngray and tottering before receiving one s\\nchange.\\nThere is always at least one functionary in\\nthese great emporiums who spiks Ingliss,\\nthough it may be fearfully and wonderfully\\nmade.\\nThe demeanor of the employes in general is\\nan improvement on that of many of our sales-la-\\ndies and. gentlemen at home. One is not pet-\\nrified by a stony stare if one desires merely to\\nlook at a display of the wares without imme-\\ndiate purchase, nor is one annihilated by glances\\nof ineffable disdain if one ventures to ask for a\\nless expensive article than that shown; on the\\ncontrary one is treated with much deference\\nand the right to inspect freely and to suit one s\\npurse in buying, is conceded as a matter of\\ncourse.\\nI notice in Paris an odd method of street-wa-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "90 ONE WOMAN WANDEBING\\ntering, calculated however for limited areas, the\\nlike of which I have never seen in America. The\\napparatus consists of several lengths of iron pipe,\\neach of about ten feet and mounted at each end\\non little cross-pieces that in turn have at each\\nend a small iron ball revolving in a socket and\\nresting on the pavement; the pipes are connected\\nby very short lengths of flexible, rubber hose.\\nA man in charge rolls this apparatus into the\\nstreet, fits one end to an aperture in the pave-\\nment communicating with the water-supply,\\nputs a nozzle on the other end and straightway\\nhe is enabled to wet down a considerable space\\nwith very little trouble. There are watering\\ncarts too, of course queer looking affairs like\\nboxes, about three feet high and four long,\\nmounted on two great wheels like a dumping-\\ncart.\\nA large number of horseless carriages of var-\\nious styles and sizes, and calculated to carry\\nfrom one to half a dozen persons, may be seen\\nrunning all about through the streets of Paris.\\nI have also seen a three-wheeled affair resem-\\nbling a bicycle. The rider of this machine does\\nno pedaling and seemingly has no care what-\\never except to direct his course by means of the\\nhandle-bars. I have never seen these elsewhere\\nand they are more terrifying to me than all the\\nbuses and trams together, for one never knows\\nwhen they may whizz across one s path, as they\\nare confined to no set tracks, like the trams and\\nare heralded by no beat of horses feet, like the\\nbuses. They speed over the pavements, swift\\nand silent, the only warning one has of their ap-\\nproach being a shrill, little toot which one\\nthinks, if one notes it at all, is produced by some\\nsmall boy s tin trumpet. I believe the motive\\npower is petroleum.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n91\\nIt strikes me that the Parisians are great\\nsleepers. It may be *because they live so fast\\nthat they are obliged to take forty winks\\nwhenever they can; at any rate they seem to\\nsleep everywhere. On the benches, in the gar-\\ndens, in the galleries, the museum, the omni-\\nbuses, even in the cafes with their glasses before\\nthem, you may see men and women too, sitting\\nbolt upright and wrapped in placid slumber.\\nThe news-dealer slumbers at his stand ;the boot-\\ncleaner slumbers at his post; the cabman slum-\\nbers on his seat if you wish the latter s services\\nyou must waken him if you make a round of\\ncalls you will find him relapsed into slumber\\nbetween each one and you will probably have to\\npoke him up every time, before you resume your\\ndrive.\\nOne can apparently never exhaust the odd\\nspectacles one is continually meeting in a prom-\\nenade. Fancy defunct porkers and lifeless\\nmutton-legs gayly garnished with artificial\\nflowers or a plucked fowl tricked out with\\nstrings of red berries around its neck and -drum-\\nsticks; or a salt cod-fish tastefully decorated\\nwith sprays of green. There is a great display\\nin the open street of all sorts of wares, from\\neggs to engravings many things to the United\\nStates mind, calling imperatively for an An-\\nthony Comstock to rise up in righteous wrath\\nand sweep them from off the face of the globe.\\nThere is always an interested and critical throng\\nabout these varied exhibitions and I believe the\\nart of window-dressing reaches its height in\\nParis.\\nMany of the streets have most absurd names.\\nHere are a few jotted down in my meanderings\\nThe Cat that Fishes, September Fourth,\\nJuly Twenty Ninth, Good Children,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "92 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nWhite Mantles, The Step of a Mule,\\nWhite Horse, Five Diamonds, Scissors,\\nComet, Equality, White Doctor, Hell,\\nfor a fact, both a boulevard and a pa\u00c2\u00absage are\\ncalled by this name usually unmentionable to\\nears polite, High Pound, Iron Pot, -White\\nQueen, Poor St. Julien, Old Pigeon-Housn,\\nand others quite as queer. But these are relics\\nof olden times, whereof the precise significance\\nhas been forgotten.\\nEqually singular and sometimes, to the\\nAnglo-Saxon idea, verging on the profane, are\\nthe titles of some of the srhops, such as, all\\ntranslated, of course, The Mother of a F;im-\\nily, The Good Devil, God the Father,\\nThe Chicken in the Pot, The Devil s Four\\nQuarters, The Grace of God. This last is\\na dye-shop and were it in England or the United\\nStates one might try to evolve some connection\\nbetween the grace of God and dying in one\\nsense and so, by transference, to dyeing in\\nanother; but being in France, even this labored\\nexplanation is impossible.\\nThough I gaze with admiration on the great,\\nwide, modern thoroughfares with their marvel-\\nous display of architectural beauties, and rare\\nas well as costly wares, yet I am really\\nmost fascinated by these same quaint, old streets\\nand localities that are in the midst of, yet so far\\nremoved from, all our conceptions of life as we\\nknow it now.\\nImagine the state of society and of traffic that\\ncould exist among these narrow ways, little more\\nthan lanes, in many of which it would be impos-\\nsible for one vehicle to pas* another. Naturally\\nwe infer that there were no vehicles to pass\\nupon the backs of men and horses were trans-\\nported through the towns all the necessities of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 93\\nlife. But can we go so far as to imagine all the\\ncarts, carriages and conveyances banished from\\nthe streets to-day, and the consequent hush and\\ngeneral stagnation that such a condition of\\nthings would imply Would life be worth living?\\nAnd yet they lived, those people of the olden\\ntime, and did good deeds and brave and passed\\non that we might come after.\\nI say little about the magnificent palaces,\\ncathedrals, art-collections and other places of\\nnote in Paris, although there is scarcely a day\\nin which I do not visit some of them. They are\\nall well-known to fame and stand solidly on\\ntheir own merits to which, or from which, I\\ncould add, or detract, nothing, even were it in-\\ncumbent on me to try. But impressions of\\nsights and sounds that attract the attention of\\na stranger in novel environment must be tinged\\nmore or less in every instance with his own indi-\\nviduality and thus in a measure unlike all\\nothers, which is my excuse for rambling on.\\nMany a day have I spent in the Palaces of the\\nLouvre and the Luxembourg and numberless\\nothers, amid their wonderful treasures of mar-\\nble and canvas many an hour amid the cool,\\nsecluded shades of Notre Dame, St. Sulpi^e, St.\\nGermain-des-Pres, the Madeleine, the Pantheon\\nand others too numerous to name.\\nAh to think of the quiet feet which once\\npasbcd restlessly in and out of these vaulted\\naisles; the silent voices once lilted here in earn-\\nest prayer and praise. All gone, but their\\nplaces are not vacant. Still rush and throb the\\nfeet and hearts of surging humanity, ever com-\\ning, ever going still rise anew its vibrant voices\\nin song and supplication.\\nThere is an antique, crumbling and moss-\\ngrown edifice standing in its own grounds at a", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "94 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ncorner of the bustling, modern boulevards, St.\\nMichael and St. Germain. It is called Hotel de\\nCluny, (Hotel meaning private mansion,) nnd\\noccupies the site of a Roman palace founded be-\\ntween the years 292 and 306, A. D.\\nHere in 360, Julian was proclaimed emperor.\\nThe old palace has long gone to ruin and the\\nonly part left to-day is the ancient Thermes or\\nbaths connected with it. The fact that the\\nFriyidarium or cold-bath chamber, is sixty-five\\nby thirty-seven and one half feet in area, and\\nfifty-nine in height, indicites something of what\\nmust have been the imposing dimensions of the\\nancient structure.\\nAbove this chamber lay for many years, until\\n1810, I believe, a garden, yet its weight and\\nmoisture did not affect the stone roof of the\\napartment lying below, then all unsuspected,\\nso substantial is its masonry. Many antique\\npieces of sculpture more or less defaced are\\nfound here, one of G-reek marble representing\\nthe Emperor Julian himself, and a battered and\\ndisreputable old creature does he appear now,\\nwhatever he may have been in his prime.\\nIn 1310 the ruins came into the possession of\\nthe wealthy Benedictine Abbey of Cluny, the\\nabbots of which caused to be erected in the fif-\\nteenth and sixteenth centuries, the present Hotel\\nde Cluny.\\nThis edifice, a remarkably fine specimen of\\nlate Gothic combined with Renaissance features,\\nstill exists and quaint enough it looks amid the\\nsurroundings of modern civilization. The es-\\ntate became national property during the Revo-\\nlution and in 1839 the Hotel de Cluny came into\\nthe possession of M. Alexander du Sommerard,\\na learned antiquarian. He died in 1842 and the\\nproperty, together with the Thermes^ was pur-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 95\\nchased by the government and thrown open to\\nthe public free of charge. By the way, Paris is\\nremarkable for the numerous means of recrea-\\ntion, instruction and culture which it furnishes\\ngratuitously to both residents and strangers;\\nand it is rare if even a nominal fee is asked for\\nthe care of one s umbrellas or canes when left,\\nas they must be, with the door-keepers.\\nThe Hotel de Cluny contains a most valuable\\ncollection of mediaeval objects of art and indus-\\ntrial products to the number of more than eleven\\nthousand.\\nBut what renders it supremely interesting to\\nme is the fact that the somber old rooms with\\ntheir low, timbered ceilings, black with time,\\ntheir ponderous bat pricelessly beautiful fur-\\nnishings, their deep, wide-mouthed fire-places\\nmutely testifying of an epoch when France had\\nlogs to burn, and having classically ornate man-\\ntels, their quaint windows set high from the\\nfloors and their dark antique decorations of a\\nby-gone age, are left intact; and again I fall to\\nwondering what s )rt of persons trod these floors,\\nlooked from these windows, loved and hoped\\nand wept and died within these walls and\\nwhether they too mused upon the old fashions\\nand queer customs of their predecessors.\\nBut the silence is unbroken and the still-\\nness gives no token, for there are none left\\nto answer, so I turn my thoughts from the things\\nthat were to the things that are.\\nAmong the many wonderful and quaintly\\ninteresting institutions of Paris, and yet one\\nthat is not always visited by the hasty tourist,\\nis the Gobelins, the state-manufactory of that\\nfamous tapestry. The foundation of this man-\\nufactory, it is said, dates back as far as the\\ntime of Francis -1., but the product did not re-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "96 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nceive its present name until 1662, when the\\nbrothers Gobelin began its manufacture and pro-\\nduced not only tapestry but all sorts of royal\\nfurniture. From this period, says one author-\\nity, dates the celebrity of the Gobelin tapes-\\ntries, which are veritable works of art.\\nThey are now reserved entirely for the govern-\\nment, for the draping of public buildings or as\\npresents from the state to foreign courts, to per-\\nsons of exalted rank and the like, and are en-\\ntirely withheld from the general market.\\nIt is amazing to watch the busy weavers, for\\nthey work from the wrong side and the beauti-\\nful, finished portions are turned toward the visi-\\ntor as he passes along in front. A large copy of\\nthe design in progress hangs at one side out of\\nthe workman s sight, but the small part on\\nwhich he is actually engaged is drawn in crayon\\non the stretched threads. Behind him is a full\\nsized copy of the finished design, and a basket\\nin front of him holds his wools, fourteen thous-\\nand hues in all, each having twenty-four difl^erent\\nshades.\\nCopies of famous paintings are reproduced\\nnot only with faultless accuracy as to details,\\nbut are actually more beautiful than the origi-\\nnals, on account of a softness and delicacy of\\ntone wherein the colors blend with an im percep-\\ntibility of shading that is truly surprising^\\nwhile there is no glitter or hardness of varnish\\nto offend the eye.\\nI was struck with the smallness and delicacy\\nof the workmen s hands; at first as I saw them\\nweaving in and out, the owners themselves be-^\\ning invisible, I supposed t lem the hands of\\nwomen, but learned later that no women are em-\\nployed.\\nAn area of six square inches is the average", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n97\\ndaily task of each man. The loom does not es-\\npecially differ from the ordinary machine. It is\\nimpossible for the casual observer to estimate\\nthe degree of patience, skill and exactitude, re-\\nquired in this work. Day after day these toilers\\nsit here behind their looms, in silence and un-\\nceasing application, isolated from all visitors and\\nalmost from their kind, as the looms in front\\nshut them off in a measure from their companions\\nas well as from the public.\\nThe Gobelins also include the Savonnerie, a\\ncarpet-factory started in 1604, by Marie de\\nMedicis, in what was originally a soap-factory,\\nhence the name, and which was united to the\\nGobelins in 1826.\\nThe main building of the Gobelins^ which is\\nvery quaint and old, is situated in the Avenue\\ncles Gobelins, and is surrounded by a high wall.\\nA large gate at one side, near which stands a uni-\\nformed attendant, is opened to the public on\\nWednesday and Saturday afternoons.\\nWe enter an ancient little court with a tree\\nor so at one side, and turning to the left come\\ninto the first of the exhibition rooms of which\\nthere are four, exclusive of the two work-shops,\\nthe staircases, the long corridor and the work-\\nshop of the Savonnerie. On leaving this build-\\ning, we step out into a quaint winding way be-\\ntween low, ancient, whitewashed structures, all\\nwithin the iniilosure, until we come again into\\nthe little court, at the farther end of which we\\nfind the chapel attached to the place.\\nThis is indeed queer and old-timey. Its prin-\\ncipal decorations are seventeenth century tapes-\\ntries after paintings by Raphael. A portrait\\nabove the entrance is striking in its vivid life-\\nlikeness.\\nI saw here something not included in any", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "98 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nguide-book or list of remarkable objects, but\\nwhich, while astonishing and unique, lelt in me\\nno desire to ever again behold the like. I had\\nnoticed a figure in the ordinary garb of a lady,\\nstanding with back toward me before the medi-\\naeval altar, evidently consulting a hand-book.\\nAs I approached, this figure turned and ad-\\ndressed to me a civil inquiry, and I earnestly\\nhope that the amazement and horror that I felt\\nwhile endeavoring to reply, were not depicted\\non my countenance, for the lady had a well-\\ntrimmed and luxuriant moustache, which curled\\ngracefully about her mouth in the most approved\\nfashion. Her manner did not betoken the least\\nconsciousness of anything unusual in her ap-\\npearance and, thanking me politely, (-he glided\\nquietly away.\\nEverywhere one goes one sees a continual\\nwashing and polishing of counter, window, floor\\nand pavement. Men are scrubbing down the\\nseats placed at intervals along the grand boule-\\nvards, also giving the railings and arbors in the\\ngardens a thorough rinsing. Even in the ceme-\\nteries is seen on every hand the vigorous appli-\\ncation of soap and water to both outside and in-\\nside of tombs. This sounds strange, but the\\ntombs here are almost invariably temples of\\ngreater or lesser size, entered with as little diffi-\\nculty as an ordinary dwelling. A tomb will\\ncontain probably one or more windows of stained\\nglass, an altar of some description, a painting\\nor piece of sculpture, perhaps a seat or two in\\nfact, there is almost as much variety in their\\ninteriors as in those of homes in general but I\\nmust confess it has a singular effect as one is\\npassing along the quiet though not deserted\\navenues, to hear voices from within these tombs,\\nno occupant being visible. One involuntarily\\nrecalls that dismal old hymn beginning:", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n99\\nHark from the tombs a doleful sound,\\nMine ears attend the cry,\\nthoufijh the sound is more practical and en-\\nergetic than doleful, while the swish of\\nbrush and splash of water instantly banish all\\nreflections of a supernatural tenor.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XI.\\nAbout this time J again change my quarters\\nand I now find myself in a typical French met-\\nropolitan dwelling-house. The average citizen\\nof Paris is housed in this fashion with accessor-\\nies more or less elegant, as his purse may jvar-\\nrant.\\nThere are few streets in Paris in which the\\nlower floors are not occupied by shops of\\nsome kind, but this where I now reside is one of\\nthe few that is given over to dwellings simply.\\nAbout two blocks from my habitation the\\nstreet converges into the beautiful Avimve de V\\nObservatoire taken from the ancient palace-\\ngarden of the Luxembourg, a side en-\\ntrance to the remaining area of which, lies just\\naround the corner from my present abode; while\\nthe spacious and busy boulevard of St. Michael\\nruns along the other side of the garden and also\\nconverges into the Jtve/r^e de I Ohservatoire at\\nthe point mentioned above.\\nThere is no tram nor omnibus line on my\\nstreet and, as one stands at the end and looks\\nalong its length, it has an appearance of quiet-\\nude almost deathly. But this quiet street has\\nhad some famous residents and stirring scenes\\nin its time. Here Emile Littre compiled his\\ngreat work, the Dictionary of the French Lan-\\nguage^ while living at No. 108; it was then\\ncalled No. 48, Rue de VOiiest. Littre himself\\nhas described the house as one from which the\\nCommunists fired upon the Versailles troops dur-\\ning three days. Littre died at No. 44. No. 76\\n100", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING lOl\\nhas a tablet inscribed Here lived Jules Michelet,\\nthe hii-torian, born at Paris, August 22, 1798,\\ndied at Hyerts (Var) February 9, 1874. No. 14\\nwas long the residence of Pierre Jean David,\\nthe sculptor, called David of Angers, to distin-\\nguish him from Louis David the painter. At\\nNo 84 lived the painter Jerome Marie Langlois,\\na pupil of David the painter.\\nThe buildings in this street look more like\\nwarehouses, factories, or even prisons than\\nhomes, for they stand flush with the pavements,\\nhaving no areas, railings or outside steps, as\\nwith us, and across the lower windows is usually\\nsome kind of an iron grating.\\nThe houses are all of a smooth, cream-colored\\nstone and are commonly faced up two or three\\nfeet with another stone of dark gray, rather\\nsomber in effect. A large double-do -r like a\\nwarehouse-entrance, on a level with the street,\\ngives ingress to each and whatever of loveliness\\nor luxury there may appertain to these homes,\\nis hidden from public view behind these doors.\\nLeaving the general for the particular, 1 ring\\nthe street-bellof my present domicile, whereupon\\nI am admitted by the concierge. I cross the\\nthreshold and find myself in a lofty passage or\\nvestibule, perhaps twenty feet broad, neatly\\npaved, and having smooth stone walls finished\\noff in pure white. The ceiling is ornamented\\nwith panels in low relief and supported by eight,\\nsymmetrical, snowy pillars. The cream-colored\\nstone ifloor is cut in a decorative pattern and on\\neach side run four wide, shallow, stone steps\\nextending the whole length of the passage. On\\nthe left side are two double-doors with upper\\nhalves of plate-glass; the first opens into the\\nquarters of the concierye, for no Fiench family\\never lives on the ground floor of such a building.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "102 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nunless attached to its service. The other door\\nhas upon it in gilt letters the name of an Agency,\\nand I presume leads to an office. These doors\\nare joined to each other and to the two end walls\\nby large windows, also of plate-glass. On the\\nright hand is but one door also double and\\nglassed, on each side of which is a handsome\\npedestal about three feet high, upon wiiich\\nstands a beautiful, large porcelain lamp of ex-\\nquisite design, looking like some rare vase.\\nSpread along the steps at each side, are soft,\\nbright rugs, very clean. Within the right h^nd\\ndoor one sees a fine mosaic pavement and alight,\\nornamental staircase seemingly constructed\\nchiefly of glittering brass; this winds up and\\naway into regions unknown to me, as my w^ay\\nlies farther on I may say, however, that each\\nfloor is a separate flat.\\nI imagine that the lot of a Paris postman is\\nnot a happy one. True he does not have to\\nmount all these stairs and visit all these flats,\\nfor the outer concierge takes charge of all the\\nmail or parcels coming into the building, which\\nby the way has but one number for all its many\\ndivisions as for instance in this place we are\\nall No. 70, though there must be as many as\\na dozen families in the house. But though the\\nconcierge thus far relieves the postman, the lat-\\nter must still be on the alert, for mails are de-\\nlivered here not only in the daytime on week-\\ndays, but also in the evenings and on Sunday.\\nThe postman wears a dark blue uniform and his\\nmail is carried in a shallow, square box of many\\ncompartments and is suspended horizontally in\\nfront of the man by means of straps from\\nthe shoulders. Stamps, aside from at the post-\\noffices, may be purchased of the tobacconists.\\nTobacco being a governmental product and un-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n103\\nder its protection, a license is necessary for the\\nsale of the weed, and with this is given the right\\nto sell stamps.\\nBut 1 have not yet reached my apartment.\\nAt the farther end of the vestibule is another\\nlarge double-door, of stained gla!?s. This has\\nno bell nor lock, so I turn the handle and step\\ninto a large, open court perhaps fifty feet square.\\nI use the term, open, in the sense of having no\\nroof; it is, however, fully inclosed otherwise by\\nthe four inner walls of the building, six stories\\nhigh besides the attic. The edifice is, in fact,\\nbuilt around this court, so that the latter is shut\\nofi from the street and all other outside com-\\nmunication, by, in effect, a lofty barrier two\\nrooms deep on all sides.\\nThe court is paved with ornamentally cut\\nstone; in the center, elevated by one or two very\\nbroad shallow steps, is a curbing of fanciful de-\\nsign perhaps twenty by twenty-five feet in dimen-\\nsions, which is filhd with ear h and set out in\\nflowers and shrubs. This plot, by the way, is\\ncalled a garden.\\nThe main apartments of the structure face\\nthis court, and six rows of windows, besides the\\ndormer windows of the attic, look down upon it\\nand receive no more air and light than may en-\\nter from above. In this respect the higher flats\\nare the more favort d ;residingin the lower ones is\\nsomething like living witliin a deep well.\\nAcross the court from the entrance is still\\nanother double-door, half glass like the others,\\nbefore which are more wide, light-stone steps\\nand more bright clean rugs. Pulling another\\nbell, I evoke another concierge who admits me\\ninto a hall about twelve feet wide. Another\\nfloor cut out in patterns, this time of marble, and\\ncovered with a soft rug through the center Jeads,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "104 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nto another staircase opposite. This stairway is\\nof polished hardwood, but mercifully to the an-\\nkles, a carpet is laid in the middle.\\nEach landing is lighted by a large window of\\nstained glass. Through these when open, may\\nbe seen the tiniest imaginable ppace of greenery,\\na shrub or two, and a high, iron fence, immedi-\\nately on the other side of which rise the grim-\\nlooking walls of a great convent which, facing\\nthe other way, shuts us oif from the street be-\\nhind us.\\nI walk up the last mentioned stairs, turning\\nat the half-way landing, and find myself on the\\nfirst floor, (foreign reckoning,) where I am ad-\\nmitted by the bonne and go down the hall to my\\nroom, for I have at last reached the particular\\nflat in which, for the time being, I dwell When\\nensconced here, there are betweem me and the\\npublic street, three solid walls, (for my room\\nfaces the court on the further side, one single\\nand four double-doors. It is quite a proceeding\\nto really get outside, and in the case of those who\\ndwell in the upper stories, it becomes a pilgrim-\\nage, as elevators are unconceived of. I wonder\\nif all this difficulty of access, all this getting\\naway as far as possible from the public gaze,\\narose from the necessity in ancient, rude and\\nwar like times, of placing the family, usually\\ntender and helpless, as distant as possible from\\noutside attacks.\\nIt is ditti ult in viewing the Paris of to-day,\\nt realize its tumultuous and terrible p.ist. The\\nscenes of violence, bloodshed and destruction\\nhave, almost, without exception, been so com-\\npletely transformed and beautified that one\\nniupt turn to the pa^es of history to find evi-\\ndence that affairs have ever been other than as\\nnow.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n105\\nBut there is one stately ruin standing to-day\\nin what is known as the Aristocratic Quarter\\nthat testifies silently yet powerfully to a season\\nof terror not very far removed from the present\\ntime.\\nThis is the Palais d^Orsay, built in 1810-35\\nand latterly used by the Conseil cfEtat and the\\nCour des Comptes.\\nIn the dark days of 71, this palace was fired\\nby the Oommunards, and to-day the lofty exter-\\nior walls, still standing in spite of their terrible\\nordeal, are all that is left to witness to the\\ngrandeur and dignity of the once magnificent\\nstructure. It is an imposing edifice even now,\\ncovering the area bounded by the Quay d Ort ay,\\nand the streets of Lille, Poitiers and Bellechasse,\\nbut the interior is completely gutted; chaotic\\nheaps of broken masonry here and there, while\\nsuggesting something of the outline and dimen-\\nsions of grand salon and gallery, yet preserve no\\nindication of the former elegance and beauty of\\ndesign and decoration. All is silence now\\nwithin its roofless chambers into which the sun-\\nshine and the rain of heaven alike fall pitilessly,\\nwhile vines and shrubs look out of the empty\\nwindow-spaces.\\nThe public gardens of Paris are beginning to\\nappear very lovely now with wealth of leaf and\\nbud. Not a great profusion as yet but enough\\nto brighten and ornament the scene.\\nIn all these numberless beautiful gardens be-\\nlonging to the municipality, laid out with skill\\nand art and embellished with statues, pondu,\\nfountains, and flowers, the children have full\\nsway and are alioved to run, romp, roll and dis-\\nport themsalves altogether as they see fit. Some\\nof the gardens are ot modern origin; others date\\nback several hundred ears and have seen dynas-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "106 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nties rise and fall but whatever they are, they\\nare open from moruing until night, for the\\nspecial benefit of the rising generation.\\nIt gives much food for meditation to stroll\\nthrough the ancient palace-gardens such as those\\nof the Louvre, the Tuileries, the Palais lioyale\\nthe Luxumbovirg, Versailles and the like, all plan-\\nned and perfected by a corrupt and selfish roy-\\nalty for its own exclusive enjoyment, and to mark\\nthe freedom with which all classes of people\\n(except indeed the very class of those ancient\\naristocrats themselves) now pervade for rest\\nor recreation these once sacredly guarded pre-\\ncincts while their children, shouting from\\nterrace or leafy nook, wake echoes once answer-\\ning only to the stir of a royal retinue or, racing\\ndown the winding avenues and around the mar-\\nble margins of plashing waters, do tread all un-\\nabashed and unrebuked in the footsteps of\\nancient kings.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XII.\\nI left Paris one mild morning in a drizzling\\nrain^ so that my last view of her avenues and\\nvistas was as through a mist of tears.\\nNot at all, however, did I regret leaving this\\nwondrous city, the magnificence and beauty of\\nwhich are so indescribable, but whose spacious\\nareas and splendid structures seem somehow de-\\nsigned merely for external display, with little\\nthought throughout those broad stretches, of\\nthe inner domesticity and cosy hominess so\\ndear to less excitable if also less brilliant peo-\\nples.\\nParisians as a rule seem to live in public and\\nto seek home only for reasons somewhat similar\\nto that influencing the too convivial gentleman\\nwho went home at four o clock in the morning,\\nbecause all the other places were shut up.\\nI shall not soon forget the extreme surprise\\nand volubly expressed amazement of both mis-\\ntress and maids at my pension, when occasion-\\nally, wearied out by incessant promenading and\\nsight-seeing, I elected to pass the day quietly in\\nmy own room.\\nWhat! Madame has not gone out? But\\nsurely, Madame goes out presently? Madame\\ndoes not stay with herself all the day. That\\nunderstands itself without saying!\\nThus the women of the household and no one\\nof them, mistress or servant, seemed to be able\\nto approach that point of view wherefrom it\\nmight appear reasonable or satisfactory to re-\\nfrain from making a sortie into the outer world.\\n107", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "108 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThis seems the prevailing state of opinion;\\nand perhaps it is not inexplicable why the seclu-\\nsion of the domestic hearth is not so prized by\\nthis light-hearted, emotional folk, as by some\\nother nationalities.\\nIn the first place, the domestic hearth\\nscarcely exists even as a figure of speech. The\\nhomes in general, as nott d before, are damp\\nand, to the American, dark and somewhat dis-\\nmal. Fuel is expensive and brought in only in\\nsmall quantities. Such a thing as keeping up\\na continual fire for general warmth is almost\\nunknown.\\nAs soon as a meal is prepared, the cooking\\nfire is extinguished, while the small fire lit in\\nthe dining-room just before each meal, is care-\\nfully raked out as soon as the meal is over. But\\nthe most surprising feature of it all is that the\\nnative does not seem chilly and, even while\\nthe American is shivering, opens doors and\\nwindows for fresh air.\\nIn a land of continual sunshine, like Italy or\\nCalifornia, I can understand how persons get\\ninto a habit of going out of doors to keep warm\\nbut in Paris where there is so much chill rain\\nand often quite protracted spells of really cold\\nweather, it is incomprehensible to me that they\\nshould not, unless in poverty, strive to be a little\\ncopier at home.\\nOf course sun and light are not so easily ob-\\ntained as artificial warmth might be. The liv-\\ning-rooms, looking out as they usually do upon\\nhigh, closed courts that shut off mvich of what\\nsunlight might otherwise shine directly in at\\nthe windows, are often in the shadow all day\\nlong, which does not add to their cheeriness,\\nnor can their occupants command any view of\\nwhat is going on in the outside world.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 109\\nThen the French custom of breaking fast in\\nthe morning with a bit of bread and a draught\\nof coffee taken alone, either in bed or during the\\ntoilet, does away with the pleasant and hospit-\\nable reunion around the breakfast table, which\\nour own countrymen so highly prize and the\\naverage Frenchman hurries out into the street\\nas soon as may be, for warmth and society.\\nWhat wonder then that the brilliantly lighted\\nrestaurants and the wide, clean avenues with\\ntheir constantly shifting throngs of gay comers\\nand goers, should seem most attractive to these\\nvolatile people, especially here where they have\\nmade their city with very little exception, the\\nmost splendid and beautiful in the world.\\nBut now it was behind me and I was soon\\nspeeding over a green and fertile country and\\nthrough thrifty, picturesque towns.\\n1 could not but note the difference between\\nthe United States and France, in the degree of\\ncare taken to reduce to a minimum the danger of\\nrailway accidents. Everywhere was the ap-\\nproach to a station most carefully guarded.\\nNowhere did a railway and a country-road cross\\nat the same level; either by a strong bridge or a\\nwell-walied excavation did the train pass over\\nor under the wagon ways; and throughout the\\nwhole course, the tracks were laid between earth\\ntrenches well protected by thickly growing\\nhedge or solid mason-work, so that by no pos-\\nsibility could any creature, biped or quadruped,\\nfind itself upon the rails unguarded. Recalling\\nthe manner in which our trains at home dash\\nthrough crowded cities and out across the open,\\nutterly unprotected country, I could not but\\nfeel that we might learn much in regard to the\\nproper care and preservation of life, even from\\nthese same volatile Frenchmen.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "110 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThere is not much in the scenery along this\\nRoad of Iron of the East, to keep one s atten-\\ntion as we journey on hour after hour with the\\nrain still gently falling. We pass through an\\nundulating country well watered with noble\\nstreams and fair with verdant fields. There is\\nlittle to remind an American that one is in a\\nforeign land, except perhaps the sight of peasant\\nwomen of all ages toiling on the fermes at the\\nmost menial of out-door tasks, the extreme tidi-\\nness and finish of homes and gardens, and\\nthe dramatic vivacity of the alien tongue at the\\nstations.\\nI soon turned my attention to the interior of\\nmy carriage. For the first time I now found\\nmyself in a second-class compartment and I\\nlooked curiously about to see what manner of\\nplace it might be. It certainly was not luxur-\\nious but was very comfortable. As in most con-\\ntinental carriages, it opened at each side by a\\ndoor into a narrow lane running between two\\nrows of seats facing each other, each row accom-\\nmodating five ph.ssengers with barely room for\\nopposing knees and feet. Light was admitted\\nby small windows at each end of the two rows\\nof seats and through the glass upper half of the\\ntwo doors. Window-curtains of some coarse,\\ndark-blue worsted stufi walls and ceilings being\\ncovered with the same the former being padded\\nup three or four feet to form backs for the\\nseats, which were cushioned in the same dark-\\nblue.\\nThere were no means of heating the place nor\\nany provision for artificial light; no opportunity\\nfor moving about nor, if the compartment were\\nfilled, of changing one s position; no toilet\\nconveniences of the s-implest description and no\\nway of getting out until released by the garde.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 111\\nFor several hours I traveled on alone and un-\\ndisturbed. I had paid a man an extra franc to\\nput me into a carriage but had not thought to\\nstipulate for a non-smoker; in compartments\\nnot labeled thus, smoking is permitted if no\\noccupant objects, with the exception of the\\nplaces reserved for ladies alone there are also\\nstill other compartments labeled Smokers,\\nwhere one must not demur at smoking if one\\ntakes a place there. During the course of the\\nday, ladies and children came and went, but no\\none wished to smoke until late in the afternoon\\nwhen my solitude was invaded by eight men,\\nevidently commercial travelers, one of whom\\npolitely inquired if his smoking would be offen-\\nsive to me I replied literally that it would not,\\nbut when, without further inquiry, the remain-\\ning seven also produced cigars and began vigor-\\nously puffing the same, I did feel that I had\\nfallen a victim to my good-nature. But after an\\nhour or two, these gentlemen departed as they\\nhad come, in a body, and I was left again in\\nsolitude.\\nAnd what a solitude it is. Not a sound but\\nthe steadily rolling wheels and the occasional\\nhigh, thin toot of the whistle, which is some-\\nthing entirely different from the ear-splitting\\nshriek of our engines in America. No possible\\nway of communicating with any human beings\\nbetween stations. In fact, a prisoner in solitary\\nconfinement am I, only to be let out at the dis-\\ncretion of the guard. I cannot call him con-\\nductor, he is so utterly unlike anyone we\\nrecognize under that title. He seems to have the\\nvaguest idea of anything one would suppose to\\nbelong properly to his province exhibits the\\ngreatest indifference as to one s tickets; indeed,\\non mine is a printed request that the \u00e2\u0096\u00a0voya-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "112 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n^ei r will see personally that the right coupon is\\ndetached at the right place! He never gives\\nany information as to necessary change of trains\\nor other details, unless specially importuned,\\nand even then his replies are unreliable and\\npersons are left to find their way about as their\\nintuition suggests. All this is rather hard on\\nstrangers in a strange land and of a strange\\ntongue.\\nHowever I cannot help feeling sorry for the\\nguard, he looks so forlorn, as he runs along in\\nthe rain outside the carriages, first on one side\\nand then on the other, now and then casually\\nmentioning the name of the station as he trots\\ndown the line. He does not look in at the win-\\ndows and one would not suppose from his de-\\nmeanor, that the travelers had the least interest\\nin the matter. Then he disappears. I have yet\\nto learn what becomes of him between stations.\\nWhat a contrast to our brazen-lunged train-\\nmen of stentorian tones. Can my lone sister\\nimagine anyhow, a train with no brakemen, no\\npop-corn and gum fiend, no time-card, no lit-\\nerature, no ice-water, no nothing, so to\\nspeak?\\nAbout this time, I gather from sights and\\nsounds at a station we approach, that there is\\nsome refreshment to be had. The guard re-ap-\\npears and unlocks my door I question him and\\nfind that I am not in error. I step out, (the\\ncarriages abroad are almost invariably on a\\nlevel with the platforms, so there is no climbing\\nup and down) and follow the crowd into a long\\nroom filled with ?mall tallies. I have a cup of\\ncoffee with milk and sugar and a roll with but-\\nter, I mention items because each is cliarged\\nfor separately, butter, milk and sugar not being\\nmatters of course, as with us, for which I pay", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n113\\nabout ten cents, United States, and start to go\\nback, but now to my astonishment I find I can-\\nnot get out. I naturally had returned to the\\ndoor by which I entered, but find that locked\\nand exit cut off. Then on diligent inquiry, I\\nam directed hither and thither, through narrow\\npassages, in at this door and out at that, until\\nfinally after a tortuous way, I emerge with be-\\nwildered brain, at a totally different point from\\nthat at which I had entered the building.\\nTwo or three ladies now join me in my com-\\npartment and from their conversation, (which I\\nmust of necessity hear, there being no privacy\\nin these carriages,) I learn that at the next sta-\\ntion we reach the Belgian frontier, where our\\nluggage must be examined.\\nI am very glad to be thus forewarned, other-\\nwise I should have been sorely dismayed at the\\nsudden invasion of our carriage as it comes to a\\nhalt, by two or three excited men who seize our\\nhand-luggage and rush off with it. We follow,\\nthough the men have vanished; we make our\\nway into a large room where everyone must\\nclaim liis or her possessions, produce keys and\\nsubmit to the inspection.\\nThere are two points to be considered duti-\\nable articles and overweight of permissible com-\\nmodities. It is a little odd that one may have\\nas much hand-luggage as one can get into\\nhis compartment, with no extra charge, but on\\nall that goes into the luggage-van, one must\\npay extra in France for anything over sixty\\npounds, in Germany all over fifty-five pounds,\\nand in Belgium for every pound. These regu-\\nlations and the usually short distances from\\none frontier to another, necessitate a continual\\nopening, weighing and re-weighing of trunks,\\nbaskets and boxes, most tedious to experience,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "114 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nas everybody must go personally to attend to\\nthe matter. But there is no hurry. Every-\\none seems to have plenty of time and at last it is\\nover once more. Here again we find ourselves\\nlocked in: after many efforts I discover that\\nthe exit is at the opposite side from the en-\\ntrance, and as before, in an entirely different\\npart of the building, but after turning here and\\nthere through more doors, we come into a large\\nwaiting-room which we are directed to cross\\nand finally are permitted to come into the open\\nair, when we all trail back again to our place?,\\nfee our porters and set off once more.\\nAnd now we enter Belgium. No beauty is\\nthere to be seen here along the line of the\\nrailway. Occasionally a few grim, sterile look-\\ning hills and now and then a fine river, but the\\ncountry is mostly flat and uninteresting and\\nblack with its numerous coal and iron works\\nwith all their unlovely products. We roll along\\nwith little variety until we have traversed the\\ntiny country and reach the German outposts. It\\nseems strange to reflect that I have crossed two\\ncountries and entered a third in a little more\\nthan half a day, when at home I have traveled\\nday after day and night after night without\\never getting outside the boundaries of the grand\\nand glorious United States. A little spread-\\neagle-ism may perhaps be pardoned in one who,\\nhaving been for several months remote from\\nColumbia, the getn of the ocean, begins to\\nyearn for the freedom and progress of that\\nhappy land.\\nBut here we are in Germany, another custom-\\nhouse must be gone through, with another\\nweighing of luggage, another set of porters to\\nfee and another settling down to our places.\\nI was startled at the sudden contrast of the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 115\\nNorth German physique to that of the lean,\\nwiry, little Frenchmen among whom I had been\\nso long. The officials here were a wonderfully\\nfine looking set of men with brilliant and hand-\\nsome uniforms. The station-masters, I learn,\\nalways wear a bright orange cap, so they are\\neasily identified. One lordly creature in splen-\\ndid cap and bright green, braided costume con-\\ndescended to inspect my trunk.\\nHe stood on one side and I on the other of the\\nlong, low barrier that runs across all these bag-\\ngage-rooms. He undid one strap and ordered,\\nnot requested me to undo the other; astonished,\\nI complied. He then took hold of one end of\\nthe tray and ordered me to lift the other.\\nSpeechless with amazement, I obeyed. He then\\ndeigned to proceed without further mandates. I\\nwondered afterward what would have happened\\nhad I refused to obey his commands, probably\\nsomething equal to battle, muider and sudden\\ndeath, for in Germany man is indeed, lord\\nsupreme, and unless yielding homage to rank\\nand position, absolutely lacking, as a rule, in any\\nof that deference that the genuine American,\\nwhatever his station, always pays to women,\\nyoung or old, lovely or otherwise. I almost\\nwished I had told the official to do it himself.\\nHowever, I was too much startled to let my\\nangry pas^sions rise and did not, in fact, fully\\ntake in the extent of the man s perhaps I should\\nsay the gentleman-and-officer s rudenes-s until\\nI was once more in my little compartment.\\nI may add here for the benefit of my solitary\\nwoman the sum of information gleaned later\\nby me on this point. The usage is that any\\nwoman, gentle or simple, unless having a servant\\nof some kind, must wait upon herself the same\\nas a man does though should it get whispered", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "116 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nabout that she is of high rank, she would receive\\nservile attention. If one travels without a maid\\nor man-servant, one may fee a porter to undo\\nstraps and other little jobs difficult for a woman to\\nmanage. but no service will be volunteered gratis\\nnor should one ask it. One pays the porter what\\none pleases, from about two cents up; one would\\nwish to be just and certainly not mean, but the\\nveteran traveler never gives inordinate fees.\\nOur progress was soon again interrupted, for\\nat the next station we had to change trains with\\nyet again the bother of claiming boxes, bags and\\nbundles and feeing porters. But our change was a\\nvast improvement on our situation. We were now\\non the governmental railway of Prussia and found\\nthat second-class cars in Germany are as good\\nas, and more convenient than, first-class in\\nFrance.\\nThis compartment held. places for six; the\\ncustomary lane ran from side to side connecting\\nopposite doors; the long, back seat was divided\\nby movable arms into two of two places each;\\nopposite was another double-seat facing, the oc-\\ncupants of which must ride backward.\\nIn the space usually devoted to a continuation\\nof this short seat, was a door leading into one\\nof the tiniest lavatories, having the scantiest of\\nfurnishings. This opened also into the next\\ncompartment, one lavatory thus serving for two\\ncompartments.\\nIn each compartment a Danger Brake was\\nfixed on one wall with a placard stating how and\\nwhen it might be used and the j)enalties for mis-\\nuse. Another complicated arrangement was\\nalso provided, with directions for summoning\\nhelp in the case of illness or aggression on the\\npart of any of the passengers. There was an", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n117\\nelectric bell for the use of ladies. There\\nwas aa apparatus by which, through moving a\\nlever, the temperature could be changed from\\ncold to medium or to hot though I am\\nsure I should never dare to meddle with this or\\nthe others. As a farther provision for safety,\\nthe walls of the (compartment failed by a few\\ninches to reach the ceiling, thus making it pos-\\nsible for anyone, by standing upon a seat, to\\nsurvey the interior of the next compartment and\\nthus, I suppose, to cause any chance villain who\\nmight desire to injure his fellow-travelers, to\\nrealize that he was, theoretically, under surveil-\\nlance, though I fear that, pract cally, the ar-\\nrangement would be of little avail.\\nThe seats were upholstered in corded velvet of\\na grayish brown, very soft and comfortable;\\nfoot-rug and curtains of the same hue; ceiling\\nand walls decorated with a neat, cheerful paper;\\nwhile a small lamp fixed in the center of the\\nroof would provide enough light in an emergency\\nto make the darkness visible.\\nOne lady accompanied me in the change but\\nafter a few miles she also vanished and I was\\nleft journeying onward alone.\\nThe sun had now come out and the country\\nlooked very pleasing; not unlike the region of\\nthe United States through Wisconsin and Min-\\nnesota; not quite so well-watered perhaps, but\\nthe aspect of things in general made it seem not\\nat all incomprehensible that our North-German\\nimmigrants are able to settle down so contentedly\\namong us in that section.\\nThe fir-t stage of my journey ends at Cologne\\nand I step out toward evening at this city of\\nfragrant associations. After many formalities,\\n(which, however, need not disconcert the lone", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "118 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nfemale, even though she does not understand\\nGerman, if she will keep calm and hold her\\nticket plainly visible,) I am safely inducted into\\na cab and soon am driving forth with wonder\\nand interest through the streets of this historic\\ntown.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIII.\\nI can hardly describe, much less account for,\\nthe comfortable feeling that took possession of\\nme as soon as I began to mingle in German\\nscenes and to come in contact with the German\\npeople.\\nSomehow a sensation of confidence and at-\\nhome-a-tive-ness pervaded my mental being at\\nonce, of which I had not the slightest experience\\nduring all my sojourn in France.\\nPossibly it may be attributed to the factth^t\\na resident of Wisconsin must necessarily be\\nsomewhat familiar with the German type, with\\nits method of thought and with the sound of its\\nlanguage, and though both type and tongue are\\nmarkedly modified with us, by the influence of\\nAmerican environment, yet th^ re is enough sim-\\nilarity in countenance and cadence here to make\\nme feel that I am not among utter strangers.\\nThe rosy, rotund, blonde and bpaming gentlemen\\nand the fair, friendly and amiable ladies whom\\nI see all about, may be met in counterpart any\\nday at home, while the fjimiliar rames I note\\neverywhere intensify the home feeling.\\nThen, as a general thing, the German is a well-\\nbalanced being. He does not fly off in a tangent\\nof wild excitement on the slightest or no provo-\\ncation. Neither does he seem to have a deep-\\nrooted suspicion of all foreigners nor lay him\\nself out at once to get the better of all such by\\nsharp practices. He seems to assume that\\nstrangers mean to be fjtir and honorable in deal-\\ning with him, and he is willing to give them the\\n119", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "120 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nbenefit of a doubt in all that he may not under-\\nstand.\\nAgain, his, or perhaps I should say her, house-\\nkeeping is very like our own. The country is\\nfull of homes and restful places for the weary.\\nTheir couches and chairs are made for rest, their\\nrooms are light and warm, (though they do not\\noverheat them as the Americans do,) and their\\nfront apartments are not at the back, but\\nsurvey the pleasant avenues and the tasteful\\ngardens so arranged that their beauty may be\\nenjo3 ed by passers-by.\\nAs with us, the family gathers at the break-\\nfast table, though one does not find the variety\\nat this meal that Americans expe3t; this\\nhowever can generally be obtained by order-\\ning an American breakfast, and paying\\nextra for the added dishes. Two is the usual\\nhour for dinner, seven for supper breakfast is\\na more movable feast ranging from half past\\nseven to nine. As a result of this routine, I\\njDresume, banking hours are from nine to two\\nand from five to seven. Tea and coffee are\\nserved at these meals much more commonly than\\nin France, and without extra charge, though\\nbeer-drinking is universal and that of wine\\nalmost as much so; but our United States habit\\nof ice-water drinking is incomprehensible to the\\nGerman as well as most other foreigners; incon-\\nsequence, the average United Statesian meets\\nwith considerable ridicule, generally good-na-\\ntured, for his aqua-imbibing propensities; but\\nusually unless very young or foreignized by long\\nresidence, he maintains his abstemiousness in\\nthis respect. This practice is a scource of sur-\\nprise and even dismay to the friendlj^ foreigners\\none meets, and often, some kind-hearted persons\\nwould take an opportunity to remonstrate with", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n121\\nme on account of what they deemed my perni-\\ncious habit. Why, you will certainly be ill,\\nthey would exclaim, it is impossible to drink\\nwater habitually, without getting one s system\\nout of order. But I do it at home, I would\\nreply.\\nOh! they would cry, but you Americans\\nhave more typhoid fever than any other nation\\nin the world.\\nBut I never had typhoid fever in my life,\\nI would rejoin. Still they w^ould not leave me\\nto my fate. Mark my words, they would\\nadd impressively, you cannot do it here. Be\\nwarned in time.\\nBut I persisted in imbibing the crystal fluid,\\nthough I will confess that at first, supposing\\nsome subtle danger might lurk therein, 1 strove\\nto satisfy my thirst with wine and beer but very\\nshortly decided that I would suffer illness if so\\nit must be, rather than swallow the sour and\\nbitter stuff that I sa\\\\v consumed all about me\\nwith such relish. Then as I remained provok-\\ningly healthy, my companions would regard me\\nwith amazement; no doubt exclaiming, like the\\nold-school phj^sician whose fever patient recov-\\nered after swallowing a strenuously forbidden\\npitcherful of ice-water\\nGreat Heavens, what a constitution\\nBut I was proud to find that with most for-\\neigners, the name of American, especially from\\nthe United States, was synonomous with tem-\\nperance, if not total abstinence and by the w^ay,\\nI was amused to note that American means a\\nUnited States citizen, with the average native of\\nthe Old World. Is so-and-so an American?\\nI would ask.\\nOh, no! He is a Cantidian, would be the\\nreply, or a Mexican, or whatever the case\\nmight be.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "122 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nBut Canada is in America, I would remark.\\nOh is it? many would rejoin while others,\\nespecially among the English, might say Oh,\\nwell! We never think of them as Americans.\\nIn Germany, coffee with light wafers or kucken\\nis usually served at four o clock and sometimes\\ntea also, though the fashion of drinking the lat-\\nter in the middle of the afternoon, is an exotic\\nfrom England, as it is in France and America.\\nThere is always a hearty welcome for a friend\\nor stranger and the house-mother is seldom\\nabsent from her post, where she provides for th\u00c2\u00ab\\ncomfort of all. One peculiarity at least, of so-\\ncial etiquette in Germanj surprises the foreigner,\\nthat is the requirement that the stranger shall\\nmake the advances toward acquaintance with res-\\nidents, calling upon them for purposes of intro-\\nduction.\\nOn my arrival in Cologne my first act was to\\nrefresh the inner woman, which I did with,\\namong other things, the first cup of really good\\ncoffee that I had found since I left home, and\\nthe first butter that did not taste like whipped\\ncream.\\nMy room was light, airy, clean and well-fur-\\nnished, at a moderate charge; seventy-five cents\\na day, I believe, with fifteen cents additional\\nfor service, but no extra charge for heat and\\nlight tips ad libitum there was an exceedingly\\ncomfortable bed, though this is no rarity as 1\\nfound excellent beds everywhere. One never\\nsees the large English double-bed in France or\\nGermany, always single if the bed-room is in-\\ntended for two persons, there are two beds.\\nOf course in the hotels, linen is changed daily, as\\nwith us; but 1 was glad to find later in the j9e?i-\\nsions, for the Germans have adopted the French\\nterm, that more liberal ideas are prevalent than", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n123\\nin France, bed-linen being changed once in a\\nfortnight, Just as they do in England, to\\nquote my German hostess; and as a week is only\\nseven days as with us, there is consequently a\\ndiiFerence of ten days in the time one is expected\\nto use one s slips and sheets.\\nThe Germans also have more advanced views\\nin regard to towels, though bath-rooms are almost\\nas rare as in France. But I will say for the\\npensions of both countries, that the linen and\\nbedding furnished are of excellent quality, soft,\\nfairly fine, ample and sweet smelling, and the\\nroom-fittings as a rule far surpass in quality and\\ncomfort, those provided at greater cost in our\\nown country. This last clause applies also to\\nthe table, where usually much care is shown to\\nappointments and serving though the list of\\ndishes is much shorter. The housekeeping I\\nfind immaculate everywhere. But this is a di-\\ngression. I return to my hotel.\\nWonder of wonders, there is here an elevator.\\nAs we use that term, while the English say\\nlift and the French ascender, (translated,)\\nI was curious to know the German designation,\\nso asked the lad at hand to my amusement he\\nreplied riding-chair, (also translated.)\\nThe next morning I began my exploration of\\nCologne. It is a fine city and, as we all know,\\nfull of special interest. The sweet waters\\nthat have made its name a household word\\neverywhere, are to be seen on sale on every side,\\nin gayly decorated tiasks more or less elegant.\\nThe great cathedral attracts one s attention at\\nonce. Would that I could fully express the\\nsingular impression of extreme airiness, delicacy\\nand elegance, conveyed by this wondrous struc-\\nture, which is at the same time so grand and\\nimposing. Inapplicable as the word may seem", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "124 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nto such a pile of stone, the epithet lovely im-\\nmediatelj rises to one s lips.\\nThe two twin towers reaching up so far away\\ninto the vault of heaven are a landmark foi\\nmany and many a mile both up and down the\\nRhine, and far off over the hills and plains out\\nfrom the city.\\nThough the tallest towers in Europe, in fact,\\nI believe the tallest of any structure in the\\nworld, they soar aloft with a marvelous grace\\nwhich is exquisitely blended with an impressive\\nmajesty.\\nOne should ascend these towers not only for\\nthe far-sweeping view, but to look upon the\\ngreat bells and to read the inscription upon the\\nhuge Kaiserylocke, which some one has trans-\\nlated thus\\nI am the Emperor s bell;\\nThe Emperor s praise I tell;\\nOn holy guard I stand.\\nAnd for the German land\\nBeseech that God may please\\nTo grant it peace and ease.\\nThe bells in the southern tower were hung\\nab(Hit the middle of fourteen hundred, and the\\nenormous crane that did the work remained un-\\ndii^turbed until 1868.\\nStrange that the name of the original archi-\\ntect of this marvelous crea ion, should be lost\\nin the mists of obscurity. It is ascribed by many,\\nthough,! believe, without sufficient corroboration,\\nto Albertus Magnus; and Sven he is supposed to\\nhave been assisted by supernatural agents, the\\nVirgin appearing to him in a dream with four\\ncanonized masons, Severus,Severinus, Carpopho-\\nrus, and Victorinus, who sketched the plans in\\nlines of fire. Awaking, Albertus hastened to", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WONDEEING\\n125\\nreproduce them, but refused to call them his\\nown, ascribing them to the hand of God.\\nAnother legend, however, imputes this super-\\nnatural interference to a directly opposite power,\\nand declares that the devil appeared to Gerhard,\\nan ambitious young architect, and dared him\\nto originate something more splendid than had\\nyet been achieved; after attempting this in\\nvain, unintentionally producing only copies of\\nfamous plans, he shouted angrily, Do it your-\\nself, then Whereat His Satanic Majesty did\\nit, but at the price of Gerhard s soul; but just\\nas he was about to sign the contract, he be-\\nthought himself of a holy silver cross which he\\nwore and, having the plans safe, he drew the\\ncross forth and dared the devil to come on.\\nThe baffled devil retired breathing fire and\\nvengeance and vowing, You will find, pre-\\nsumptuous one, that it is unwise to be dishonest\\neven with the devil Though you build the\\ncathedral with my plans, your own name shall\\nbe forgotten forever.\\nThe earthly fate of this daring young archi-\\ntect was peculiar for while he did direct those\\nthat toiled, there opened suddenly a great pit\\nwhereoutcame a great and loathly w^orm which\\nseized the poor man and. cracking his neck,\\ndrew him into the pit which then closed up and\\nhe was seen no more. In the south tower, upon\\ntwo pillars of the west side, may be seen two\\nancient gargoyles said to be a true likeness\\nof Gerhard and his faithful dog; the animal\\ncatching hold of his master s gown, strives to\\ndraw him back from the pit, but is engulfed\\nwith him.\\nThe moral of this legend is dubious, seeming\\nto imply that it would have been better not to\\noutwit the devil but to acquiesce in his schemes.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "126 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe only definite fact connected with the name\\nof Gerhard is that he was tlie first superinten-\\ndent of the building of the edifice.\\nThe history of this cathedral from the first\\ninception of the sacred edifice in the mind of\\nHildebold in the beginning of the ninth century,\\ndown to the placing of the final copestone by\\nEmperor William I,, in 1880, is most varied and\\nexciting.\\nBombardment, conflagration, spoliation, de-\\nstruction and even murder are associated with\\nthe gradual, of ten intermitted, progress of this\\ngreat and noble work, until now it stands pro-\\nclaiming, to quote a royal patron and promoter\\nof the sublime undertaking, to yet unborn\\ngenerations, a Germany vv^hich, owing to the\\nunity of its princes and people, is great and\\npowerful, and bloodlessly compels peace among\\nthe nations of the world.\\nEntering the magnificent structure at the\\nmain portal, I found another variety of the\\ngenus Suisse or beadle. This one wore a long,\\nflowing robe of scarlet, finely ornamented in\\nblack, and on his head was a high cap or turban\\nof black velvet. He carried a long rod of office\\nand stood guard in the center of the great nave.\\nHe was, however, not so gloomily dignified as\\nhis French brother, strange to say, but seemed\\nof an affable disposition and kindly whispered\\nto us to please keep still until mass was over.\\nI had not known tilT then that a service was\\nin progress, as the worshippers were in a far-off\\nangle not readily visible from where we stood.\\nThey soon quietly dispersed and the visitors\\nwandered about here and there, admiring and\\nmarveling.\\nAll I he proportions and decorations through-\\nout are, of course, beautiful and magnificent to", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n127\\nan unspeakable degree, but here, as in other\\ninstances, though it goes to my heart to pass\\non without my best tribute to the ineffable\\nloveliness and majestic sublimity that almost\\nmoves one to tears from very excess of emotion,\\nT only pause to mention something unusually\\nquaint or antique which might possibly escape\\nnotice by one who were properly describing, as\\nmany have described already, the glory and\\ngrandeur of this and other famous wonders of\\nart.\\nTo get at once a comprehensive view of the\\nwhole magnificent interior, one may ascend to a\\ngallery in the eastern pillar of the south portal.\\nIn the north wall are some very odd, ancient,\\nstained windows dating from the sixteenth cen-\\ntury. In one of these appears the figure of the\\nfounder of Cologne, holding the standard of the\\ncity, while underneath is the inscription (freely\\ntranslated) in that rhyming-couplet so dear to\\nthe German mind of the middle ages\\nMarcus Agrippa, a Roman man,\\nThe Agrippa Colony first began.\\nOpposite him is Marsilius with his little\\nrhyme\\nMarpylis proud, a heathen s son,\\nHeld Cologne and triumphs won.\\nQueer neighbors they, the?e rude and warlike\\nmen, for the Holy Family, the Magi, the Saints\\nGeorge, Maurice and others who occupy the rest\\nof the window.\\nBelow the organ is a wooden urn dating back\\nto 1063, containing the remains of Queen Rich-\\neza of Poland. St. Peter s staff is one of the\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2curiosities here also an image of the Virgin,\\nwhich, as an inscription testifies, has worked", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "128 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nmany miracles here too are the relics of the\\nMagi, received in 1164 from the abbess of a\\nMilan convent, and which rest beneath a marble\\nmonument of rare beauty in the Chapel of the\\nMagi, the fourth chapel of the choir.\\nThe beautiful windows of the choir are the\\noldest in the cathedral, being of the twelfth\\ncentury. Others equally beautiful are placed\\non the left of the nave and date from the fif-\\nteenth.\\nThe right of the nave, however, has been\\nfitted up with hideous specimens of modern\\nachievement. They were probably expensive, as\\nthey were the gift of William of Prussia and\\nLudwig of Bavaria, but they compare with the\\nothers somewhat as a cheap chromo might with\\nan ancient masterpiece of oil.\\nThe choir itself, so grandly and somberly\\nmagnificent, has seen many mutations during\\nits completion. At one time houses were built\\nall around it and where the nave should have\\nbeen, and during the occupation of Napoleon\\nFirst, the French used it as a forage storehouse.\\nOpposite the Chapel of the Magi is a monu-\\nment in memory of Archbishop Dietrich von\\nMoers, 1860, excessively ornate and consisting\\nof several figures of most sacred personages,\\nsuch as the Virgin, the Infant Jesus, St. Peter\\nand others, who are represented as associating\\nin the most intimate and friendly manner with\\nthe aforesaid bishop. There is an epitaph of\\nthe most fulsome praise, extoling Dietrich to a\\nsuperlative degree, but unfortunately an unap-\\npreciative and skeptical posterity unkindly\\ndeclares that the bishop not only ordered the\\nmonument, but actually wrote the eulogy him-\\nself.\\nThe seven chapels about the choir are filled", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 129\\nwith curious and costly objects of historic and\\nartistic interest, but I must not stop for details.\\nArchbishop Philip von Heinsburglies in a huge,\\nbattlemented tomb, thus signifying that he first\\nfortified Cologne.\\nA mighty figure in solid brass lying upon his\\ntomb under a Gothic arch, represents the great\\nKonrad.\\nThe greatest art-treasure in Cologne is the\\nfamous Domhild, or Cathredal-Picture, a trip-\\ntych of Meister Wilhelm s, representing the\\nAdoration of the Magi, and to the uninitiated, it\\nwould seem that it should be in the chapel of\\nthat name, but for reasons wise, no doubt, we\\nfind it in that of St. Michael, though formerly in\\nSt. Agnes shrine. The central panel shows the\\nMagi offering presents to the Child; their fol-\\nlowers throng the background on the wings, St.\\nUrsula and her maidens on the left, St. Gercon\\nwith warriors on the right on the outside of\\nthe wings, the Annunciation.\\nThe city of Cologne, as perhaps some lone\\nsister may have forgotten, had its origin in a\\nmilitary colony (whence the name)placed hereby\\nMarcus Agrippa fifty years before Christ, so it\\nreally was old before the first conception of even\\nthe predecessors of the cathedral was realized.\\nIntensely interesting as is the narrative of the\\ncity s rise, progress, decline and later return to\\nimportance, or boom, as we of the later day\\nmight term it, yet it is but one of the innumer-\\nable, fascinating spots of this wondrous Old\\nWorld, to which no manner of justice can be\\ndone by the casual tourist,\\nA weird reminiscence of former trying times\\nis observed at St. Ursula, where are exhibited\\nin glass cases what are said to be the skulls and\\nbones of eleven thousand virgins who came with", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "130 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthe holy Ui*sula, a British princess, to Cologne,\\nwhere they suffered death as martyrs. St.\\nUrsula s bones are deposited in a shrine in the\\nsacristy which is also said to contain a curiosity\\ncatalogued as one of the wine-jugs used at the\\nmarriage of Cana. These various bones are\\nexhibited for a consideration and are truly a re-\\nvolting and piteous spectacle.\\nMost of the streets of Cologne are narrow,\\nwith queer-looking houses, also narrow and of\\npeculiar architecture.\\nAt a corner of JSTeu-Markt and Eichmodis\\nstreets, may be seen a building from the attic of\\nwhich two wooden horses are looking out. Con-\\ncerning these the legend runs thus\\nIn fourteen hundred, when Cologne was terri-\\nbly devastated by the plague, Richmodis, wife\\nof knight Menges von Aduct, was one of the\\nvictims and was buried in the Apostles Church.\\nHer wedding-ring was left upon her finger and\\nthe grave-diggers noticing the same, went the\\nnext night to steal it.\\nThey opened the grave and the coffin, but\\ntheir rough attempts to remove the ring, roused\\nher from the trance into which she had fallen;\\nshe started up, frightening away the thieves, and\\nran back to her home where she knocked for\\nadmittance.\\nThe servants alarmed ran to their master.\\nHe went to the door and demanded who was\\nthere.\\nYour wife, was the answer.\\nAh! he exclaimed in sorrow, my wife\\nRichmodis is dead, and my horses would sooner\\nascend to the loft of my house ani look. out of\\nthe window, than she would be asking to come\\nin.\\nScarcely were the words uttered when the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 131\\nhorses were heard going upstairs, and in com-\\nmemoration these wooden heads were affixed to\\nthe windows. One can only say to the sceptic,\\nIf you don t believe it, I can show you the win-\\ndows.\\nIn Sternengasse, No. 10, stands a house on\\nwhich are placed two memorial tablets, one de-\\nclaring that Marie de Medicis died, the other\\nthat Reubens was born here. I believe the for-\\nmer statement is not contradicted, but the lat-\\nter is false, though it is true that he passed a\\npart of his early childhood in this dwelling.\\nAside from these and like relics of an olden\\ntime, there are in Cologne, numerous charming\\nmodern avenues containing magnificent build-\\nings of varied and beautiful designs, as well as\\nshady promenades and handsome squares. A\\nseries of elegantly planned boulevards, denomi-\\nnated BfMgstrassen, extend around the whole\\ntown.\\nI took a leisurely survey of the^e from the\\nwindow of a horse-tram one lovely day. A very\\nfriendly conductor added much to my pleasure\\nand stock of information, by his cheerful con-\\nversation\\nA cheery, gentlemanly sort of a young fellow\\nhe was he left his car and tooli the utmost pains\\nin piloting me safely to another when I left his\\nline. It did seem odd to have him accept with a\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0^danJce sehr and without indignation, a coin or\\ntwo of trifling value when we parted, and I have\\nlearned since that I gave twice what might have\\nbeen expected.\\nI should have become accustomed to the tip\\nsystem by this time, but it still gives me a shock\\nevery now and then when some well-appearing,\\ncourteous person betrays his or her inferior\\norigin by the placid acceptance of one s small\\nchange.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "132 ONE WOMAN WANDEEING\\nUsually at first the American mind, in chatting\\nwith a sociable stranger, considers it only a case\\nof mutual information and interest but gradu-\\nally one awakens to a realizing sense that the\\naffable individual is only lying in wait for one s\\nloose silver. Sometimes it is hard to know just\\nwhat to do. I have often spent a miserable half\\nhour when visiting some famous gallery or pal-\\nace, in trying to decide whether the splendid\\ncreature in immaculate and decorated get-up\\nwho has shown me so much polite attention, is\\nreally an official to whom it would be wnldly in-\\nsulting to offer recompense, or just a common\\nperson who is confidently calculating on what\\nhe may receive. But I have generally found it\\nto be the latter. Often too, it has seemed to me\\nthe height of impertinence to proffer fifteen or\\ntwenty-five cents to the important and responsi-\\nble head-clerk or manager of my hostelry, though,\\nto be sure, he is not so imposing a being as his\\nprototype in America. I find, however, that he\\nis always willing to accept the slightest favor in\\nthis line.\\nI saw no electric trams in Cologne. In fact,\\nelectricity is little used abroad in comparison\\nto America foreigners usually consider it far\\ntoo dangerous for familiar use. The German\\nmanagement of the street-car system, as noted\\nhere and confirmed by later observation, struck\\nme as very sensible. In the first place, one\\npays according to the distance one rides, all the\\nway from five pfenniges^SLhout a cent and a\\nquarter,) up to twenty-five or thirty pfenniges;\\nI have never found it higher. Then one receives\\na ticket showing how much money has been\\npaid. The cars are neat and well-kept, with a\\ndefinite number of seats as in Paris, so that there\\nis very little crowding. Expectoration is most", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 133\\nstrictly prohibited. There are many points in\\nour foreign cousins ordering of the transporta-\\ntion business in general, that we might copy\\nwith great benefit to our own methods.\\nLater on I took a stroll out through an old\\narched gateway, along a delightful road skirted\\non one side by beautiful gardens, both public\\nand private, and on the other by the silver, flow-\\ning waters of the romantic river Rhine.\\nHow fair it all was, glowing in the evening\\nsunset- shine till one could almost seem to see\\nthe JSTiebelungen s ruddy gold reflected from\\nthe depths of the clear waters, back upon the\\npleasant paths and parterres above. It is not\\nhard in Germany to muse and dream.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIV.\\nMy next stopping-place was Duesseldorf, an\\nhour or so from Cologne. Again I was locked in\\nall by myself and so continued in solitary state\\nabsolutely uninterrupted, until I reached my\\ndestination.\\nThere were no halts, the train being express,\\nso there was nothing to occupy one s attention\\nexcept the fair, green, smiling landscape with\\nits fine streams and splendid trees.\\nI do not like thi? way of traveling. When\\none is alone it is so awfully lonely, and when\\nothers are in the compartment, one is brought\\nso disagreeably near them one must either sit\\nopposite, staring and stared at, or side by side,\\nas one might say cheek by jow^l. If one hap-\\npens to be in the middle, one has no access to\\nthe two windows, and at best one has little op-\\nportunity to change one s position. Yet for-\\neigners dislike the American railway car because\\nit is so public. I consider it much more ex-\\nclusive. In the latter one has one s own section\\nwhere no other person can molest or make\\nafraid, yet one has the advantage of the space\\nand light of a roomy car, with one s fellow-\\ntravelers at a proper distance and w^ith no oc-\\ncasion to face them or to ride backward unless\\nfrom choice.\\nI do not note quite the same caution in Ger-\\nmany that I observed in France regarding the\\nsafety of life. While the roads are well and sol-\\nidly constructed, yet they usually run across the\\nopen country with very little, although somewhat,\\n134", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 135\\nmore protection for man and beast than with ue.\\nThere is usually a low hedge along the line on\\neither side, but it coiild be easily overstepped\\nby men or animals. Every wagon-road, however,\\nis provided at every point of crossing a railroad,\\nwith strong gates on each side of the track, and\\na gateman who is sometimes a woman stands\\non duty as we dash by while in the towns there\\nis simply no getting upon the track without\\npermission, the rails everywhere within town-\\nlimits being either between walls or elevated on\\nmassive masonry.\\nMy journey this time was short and we soon\\nentered the fine, roomy station of Duesseldorf.\\nThis is a pretty town with wide streets and\\nvery spacious, ornamental avenues called Alices,\\nwhich latter have magnificent trees in double\\nrows down their centers. One of these Allies\\nis especially fine. A broad canal faced up\\nwith solid mason-work and bordered by these\\nbeautiful trees, extends its length through\\nthe thoroughfare, which is double the width of\\nthe other boulevards. Graceful, decorative\\nbridges span the waters, and light, ornamental\\nrailings insure safety; while frequent seats\\nalong under the trees provide delightful rest-\\ning-places for the pedestrian.\\nThere is a beautifully rural park lying al-\\nmost in the center of the little city, where the\\ngrand old trees and bowery shrubbery, inter-\\nspersed with frequent natural pools, and threaded\\nby delightful paths all carefully ordered and kept,\\ngive all the charm of nature with the added,\\nadornments of art. Here, in a secluded dell and\\nyet close to the busy street, standing upon a\\nthick carpet of living green and embowered in\\noverhanging branches and clustering vines,\\nstands Duesseldorf s monument to her slain in\\nbattle.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "136 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe creation is of pure white marble. Two\\nor three broad, shallow steps lead up to a spa-\\ncious, semi-eircular court or platform of this\\nmaterial, encircled by a low railing of the same.\\nUpon this foundation is placed the oblong base\\nof the memorial, which is classic in conception.\\nRising from this base is a pedestal supporting\\nthe full-length figure in heroic proportions, of\\na dying warrior in half-recumbent position,\\nwhile at his side the lion of Germany, pitying\\nand powerful to avenge, holds beneath his\\nmighty paw, the broken spear that has made\\nthe deadly wound. Upon the front of the\\npedestal are graven the following lines from a\\nGerman poet\\nFame have our heroes enough, and triumphs and\\never green laurels;\\nTears from poor mother hearts wrung, builded this\\nsymbol of stone.\\nOn the back is the inscription\\nGrateful Duesseldorf to Her Fallen Sons.\\nThe snowy whiteness of the marble, the deep,\\nrestful green of the foliage, the quiet nook\\nwherein the monument stands, the majestic\\nsimplicity yet marvelous effectiveness of design\\nand execution, all combine to make the memor-\\nial an object of most impressive beauty.\\nThere are a number of interesting old edifices\\nin Duesseldorf and many beautiful modern ones.\\nThe style of architecture is mainly on bioad,\\nsevere lines, with decorations of an elevated\\ntype. Kunst Halle is one of the prominent new\\nstructures and was built to properly house and\\ndisplay the art treasures of Duesseldorf, which\\nhas a rather peculiar school of its own.\\nI had a somewhat odd experience while mak-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 137\\ning my way thither one morning. I had been\\nto visit an ancient church and was inquiring\\nmy way along, when I met an old lady of whom\\nI asked directions. I repeated my question two\\nor three times as she informed me that she was\\na little deaf, when suddenly she grasped my\\nmeaning and ejaculated, a, J\u00c2\u00ab, ja! I am\\ngoing there myself; come along with me.\\nI did so and found I had struck a living fount\\nand endless torrent of information. The old\\nlady walked, as she talked, very rnpidly, and I\\ncould with difficulty keep pace with her, while\\nthe rattle of carts and wagons over the stone\\npavements made it almost impossible for me to\\nunderstand her quick utterances in a, to me,\\nforeign tongue.\\nHowever, I learned that she was the widow\\nof an artist, the mother of an artist and the sis-\\nter of an artist that she had a complimentary\\nmembership-tickft to the exhibitions, but that\\nI would have to pay; and then she went on\\nand gave me a hasty yet comprehensive sketch\\nof the beginning, progress and completion of\\nthe new gallery: the condition and contents of\\nthe old; the history of the removal of the collec-\\ntion, the later additions, and kindred topics too\\nmany to recall while all I contributed to the\\ninterview was a look of interest, an occasional\\nsmile and an interjectory so/ Ja, ja/ or\\ngewUs! wherever they seemed best to fit in.\\nShe conducted me safely to the building,\\npiloted me in, led me around through the dif-\\nferent rooms and gave me an account of every-\\nthing she deemed worthy of notice.\\nShe, it appeared was, or else her brother, son\\nor husband was, or had been, personally\\nacquainted with nearly every contemporary\\nartist of note, and really her knowledge, range", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "138 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nand interest were amazing. She insisted on my\\ndoing everything thoroughly, and I certainly\\nmade a much more exhaustive survey of this\\ncollection than I had any idea of making when\\nI set out. It struck me as quite amusing that\\na casual inquiry of a chance stranger in a\\nby street of a foreign town, should open\\nto me such a store of what might be termed\\ncompulsory education. But I finally was\\nallowed to bid the old lady farewell, whereupon\\nI returned to my hotel whence I soon resumed\\nmy Journey, setting out for Hanover.\\nOn this stretch I made my first acquaintance\\nwith what the Germans call a Day-tsoog,\\n(spelled D. Zug,) which name I was quite at a\\nloss to understand. I knew that D. was\\nD. and Zttf/ was train, but the combi-\\nnation suggested nothing to me, unless some-\\nthing akin to the big, big D. of the Captain\\nof the Pinafore.\\nLater I was told that it was a contraction for\\nDurch-Zug^ and as that translates through\\ntrain, I concluded I had solved the puzzle.\\nBut soon after I learned that Fern-Zug was the\\nterm for what we understand by a through\\ntrain, so I was nonplussed again.\\nFinally after a long time and much question-\\ning, for the dictionaries were silent on the mat-\\nter and most persons didn t know and few\\nseemed to care, I met a friendly inn-keeper who\\nkindly made it all plain to me.\\nIt seems that Fern-Zug is really the through\\ntrain, that is, a train made up for travel without\\nchange between two distant points, the termini\\nof the line and though D. Zug is truly a con-\\ntraction of Durch-Zug, yet that expression is it-\\nself a contraction for Durch- Gang -Zug or cor-\\nridor train, which gives a very different aspect\\nto the meaning.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 139\\nIt was easy to understand why this train that\\nI now entered should be called a corridor train,\\nfor a corridor, or passage, extends from one end\\nof the car to the other, not through the center,\\nhowever, but on one side and across the two ends.\\nIn some respects the cars are like ours in Amer-\\nica. First they are set up higher than the\\nordinary continental coach and are entered by\\nmeans of two or three steps; but these are not\\nat each end leading up to a platform as with us\\ninstead they run along on each side like those\\non an open street-car, and the doors, of which\\nthere are four, open opposite each other, from the\\nsides into the end passages. Second the train\\nis vestibuled, so one can pass, as in ours, from\\none end of the train to the other without ex-\\nposure.\\nInto the side corridor the compartments open;\\neight or ten in all, perhaps, of both first and\\nsecond class, in each carriage, or Wag en, as the\\nGermans call it. There is very little difference\\nin the two classes in Germany, in fact I could\\nsee none in point of comfort the upholstering\\nin the first class may be o\u00c2\u00a3 finer material, and\\nperhaps a little gilding or two or three small\\nmirrors not larger than a dining-plate, may be\\nthrownin, where the second class has none;\\none cannot speak with certainty in such\\npoints sometimes there are none at all\\nanywhere, and at others both classes will\\nhave them. In each compartment are six\\nplaces, three opposing three, and divided by\\nadjustable arms. The seats are roomy and easy,\\nbut the fine finish and skilled handiwork seen\\nin our cars, are entirely lacking.\\nThe corridor taking up one entire side of the\\ncarriage, there are but two places in each compart-\\nment next to windows, so the first two arrivals", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "140 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nare the lucky ones. If one comes after these,\\none has no chance to view the scenery except\\nacross one s neighbor s corporosity. The neigh-\\nbor will probably entirely control the curtain\\nand keep it drawn or not as he prefers, while\\nthe remaining occupants may be, at his pleasure,\\ndeprived of light or dazzled with too much.\\nThen very likely some one of the six will be\\nmortally afraid of the publicity of the corri-\\ndor along v^rhich an occasional traveler or train-\\nman may pass, and so insist on having the door\\ninto the same tightly closed, and there you are\\nshut up in the stuffy little place with four or\\nfive other hot, dusty, irritated mortals.\\nBut there are electric bells in each compartment\\nand a small, meagerly equipped toilet-room in\\neach car also a buffet somewhere in the train\\nwhere beverages may be procured, so the train\\nis more American-like than the usual style here,\\nthough far less comfortable than our ordinary\\nday-coaches. On these trains there are women\\nemployed, one or two to each carriage, who\\nwear white badges upon their left arms, labeled\\nDienst-Frau. I hardly know what they do, un-\\nless it IS to scrub and wash dishes, for they do\\nnot answer the bells if you ring, a man appears.\\nMeals may be had en route, by telegraphing\\nahead through a porter who takes your order.\\nThe repast is brought into the compartment,\\nand is sometimes odiously obvious to other oc-\\ncupants who, not being hungry themselves, do\\nnot enjoy seeing and smelling eatables at such\\nclose quarters. The food, however, is very good\\nand not at all expensive to our United States\\nideas of train prices. Drinking-water must be\\nordered and paid for at so much a bottle, but it\\nis a great convenience to be able to get it even\\nthis way, for on the ordinary train one must go", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 141\\nwithout, unless one carries it with one or can\\nhail a station-porter during a halt and send him\\nfor a bottle, which he fetches without ice.\\nOn this special Z). Ztt^r, the seats were extra,\\nthough I have found them so but once since;\\nabout two marks, (nearly fifty cents) be-\\ntween Duesseldorf and Hanover, one hun-\\ndred and seventy-eight miles. It was really a\\nmuch appreciated privilege to rise occasion-\\nally and walk up and down the corri-\\ndor. I was amused to note that the conduc-\\ntor and other trainsmen did not seem to\\nrealize that they could go through it in announc-\\ning stations, but ran up and down on the plat-\\nforms outside as before. Such a strange cus-\\ntom for the persons inside who are anxious to\\nknow, cannot hear, while those outside who\\ncan hear, know already. Perhaps though, the\\nmen are forbidden to pass through the train un-\\nless absolutely necessary. There are a great many\\ndon ts and mustn ts in Deutschland. But\\nI should think the trainmen would be glad that\\nthey are not obliged to pass along the steps at\\nthe sides, clinging to the iron hand-rail while\\nthe train is in motion, which is the only way\\nto go from one compartment to another in the\\nordinary train, rain or shine.\\nNot far from Duesseldorf is the ancient\\ncity of Duisberg, a manufacturing place and\\nlargely interested in coal traffic, but noteworthy\\nas being the burial-place of Mercator, the geog-\\nrapher.\\nIt struck me strangely to see a monument to\\nhim, for he had never seemed a real being to me\\nthough I confess he has never occupied my\\nthoughts to any great extent since my early\\nchildhood, when I used to ponder over tlae very\\nodd maps that appeared on the first pages of my", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "142 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nprimary geography-book, as the English say,\\nand were labeled Mercator s Projection. I\\nrecalled a little friend who once, on hearing a\\nMr. Spalding mentioned, exclaimed:\\nWhy! Is Spaldin a man? I fawt e was\\na glue I\\nLikewise my youthful mind had never fawt\\nof Mercator as a man, but merely as a Pro-\\njection.\\nAt this place our train crosses the Ruhr and five\\nmiles farther on we come to Oberhausen which\\nlias the rare distinction in this old country, of\\nbeing a new place. It is of about twenty-five\\nthousand inhabitants and has extensive iron-\\nworks.\\nThe region roundabout is very level and not\\nspecially interesting, though the verdant fields\\nand abundant water-courses have a pleasant\\nlook in the sunshine.\\nAs we approach Dortmund, however, the\\nface of the country changes and, to the left,\\nbreaks up into ranges of picturesque hills. Dort-\\nmund is ancient and venerable, as well as\\nimportant and progressive. It is mentioned in\\nhistory as early as 927; in 1387-8 it successively\\nresisted a siege of nearly two years, by the\\nArchbishop of Cologne and forty other princes.\\nThe old walls have been leveled and fine\\npromenades laid out along their foundations. It\\nhas numerous old churches and many up-to-\\ndate foundries, being the seat of the mining\\nauthorities of Westphalia.\\nIt was in this locality that the ancient, secret\\nand terrible tribunal, the Vehmgericht, origin-\\nated, which exerted such a fearful and powerful\\nsway over the whole empire. Dortmund was\\nthe seat of its supreme court and here in the\\nCourt-Yard under the Lindens the Emperor", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 143\\nSigismund himself was initiated in 1429. One\\nof these lindens is still standing and must be\\nconsiderably more then four hundred years old.\\nThe last meeting was convened here in 1803.\\nDistant ten miles is Hamm suggestive name\\nwhich is quite noted for its warm baths.\\nIt is not here, however, as would seem fit\\nand proper, that is located the great depot of\\nWestphalia hams and sausages so well known\\nto fame, but in the little village of Goetersloh,\\nthirty-three miles on, across the Lippe and the\\nEms.\\nHere also are the head-quarters of the far re-\\nnowned Pumpernickel^ a dark-brown bread or\\ncake considered very nutritious. It is made of\\nunsifted rye flour, sometimes iced, and is dear\\nto the German palate but not to mine.\\nThe country grows more hilly and is inter-\\nspersed with many busy and flourishing towns\\nrich in historic interest and containing innumer-\\nable fine relics of ye olden tyme, in the way\\nof cathedral, castle, wood-carving, painting and\\nstained glass.\\nBielefeld is the center of the Westphalian\\nlinen trade. Herford possesses many cotton\\nand flax mills. At Enger, a small town five\\nmiles aside from the railway, was the seat of that\\nstubborn opponent of Charlemagne, namely the\\nSaxon duke, Wittekind, who figures so exten-\\nsively in the semi-historic, semi-traditional lore\\nof Germany. His bones are still preserved in\\nthe abbey church here, which w^as built in the\\ntwelfth century.\\nAt Lemgo, a quaint and handsome place of\\nseven thousand inhabitants, is an extensive fac-\\ntory of meerschaum pipes.\\nAbout three miles from Detmold, (where Frei-\\nligrath was born,) rises, in the valley of the Wer-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "144 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nra,the Grotenburg, eleven hundred and sixty feet\\nabove the the sea, one of the highest points of\\nthe Teiitoburgian forest. Upon its summit,\\nplainly visible for miles around, the celebrated\\nHermann s Devknal, or Monument of Arminius,\\nrears itself. Upon an arched substructure one\\nhundred feet in height, stands the colossal fig-\\nure of the prince, fifty-six feet high, with raised\\nsword the point of which is thirty feet above the\\nhelmet. This is the work of Ernst von Bau-\\ndel,who devoted most of his life to its execution.\\nThe cost of the monument, w^hich is of copper\\nandiron, was about two hundred and seventy\\nthousand marks, equivalent at the present rate\\nof exchange to about sixty-six thousand dollars.\\nAn admirable prospect is visible from the gal-\\nlery of this monument.\\nIn ascending the hill some very ancient Ger-\\nman fortifications known SiB the Kleine Hoenen-\\nring are passed. Going on to Horn and Faderborn\\nby Diligence^one comes upon the Externstei7ie,a,n\\nodd group of five rocks over one hundred feet\\nhigh, protruding from the earth like gigantic\\nteeth.\\nIn one of these rocks is a grotto that leads to\\na cave. According to an inscription dated 1195,\\nin the grotto, it was fitted up by Bishop Henry\\nof Paderborn, in imitation of the Holy Sepul-\\ncher. Some very curious reliefs hewn from the\\nrock, represent a Descent from the Cros\u00c2\u00ab, in two\\nsections. In the upper part colossal figures\\nshow the removal of the body by Joseph of Ari-\\nmethea; above hovers God the Father carrying\\na banner and a little child.\\nThe lower portion shows Adam and Eve en-\\ntw^ined by a serpent and waiting for redemption.\\nAt Oeynhausen are warm saline springs con-\\nsidered especially efficacious in paralysis.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 145\\nNow we cross the Weser and pi-e?ently notice\\nto the left, on the Wittekindsburg eight hun-\\ndred and twenty feet above sea-level, a monu-\\nment recently erected to Emperor William I.\\nNext comes Minden, an ancient cathedral town,\\nthe fortifications of which were leveled in 1842,\\nand which contains many handsome modern\\nedifices.\\nStill we go on and on, passing many a relic\\nof bygone eras in chateau or tower or crumbling\\nwall and finally, after speeding some time over\\nanother long, level and fertile stretch, we see\\nthe winding, yellow waters of the Leine and roll\\ninto the handsome and imposing station of the\\nflourishing city of Hanover.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XV.\\nHanover has abovit two hundred thousand in-\\nhabitants and is situated in a fertile, somewhat\\nrolling plain, well watered, principally by the\\nnavigable river Leine, and its tributary, the\\nIbme. I was much pleased with the clean, airy\\nand generally ornamental appearance of the\\nplace and remained here several weeks.\\nI was most fortunate in my location, having\\nbeen referred to a family of ex-governesses, four\\nmaiden ladies of middle age, who, in addition\\nto being excellent hostesses, were also refined\\nand cultivated ladies, not only educated, but\\nexceedingly skilled in music, drawing, paint-\\ning, Latin and modern languages.\\nThe eldest was a plump and pleasing per-\\nson, and a most painstaking and indefatigable\\nhousekeeper, though highly accomplished as\\nwell.\\nThe second sister had just returned from\\nfinishing the daughter of the deposed King\\nof Hanover, having been a member of this royal\\nhousehold many years, traveling and residing\\nwith her patrons in almost every part of Europe.\\nHer reminiscences of the familiar daily walk\\nand conversation of the august and titled per-\\nsons with whom she had come into contact, were\\nmost interesting, including personal recollec-\\ntions of the Queen of England, the Emperors of\\nGermany and Russia, and nearly all of their\\nnumerous distinguished connection, the House\\nof Hanover being, as we know, the source of the\\npresent English line.\\n146", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 147\\nThe third sister was also a traveler, having\\nspent in discharge of her duties, two years in\\nAmerica and some time in France, Switzerland\\nand Holland. In France she had charge of the\\nchildren of our own ex-vice-president Morton.\\nNeither was the fourth, whom we used to\\ncall the little one, a stay at home, She\\nhad spent eighteen years in England and was\\nfamiliar with France and Italy.\\nNaturally their information and experience\\nwere extensive and the ladies were really almost\\nwalking encyclopedias. But this very fund of\\nknowledge and the having been for so many con-\\ntinuous years in positions of authority over\\npupils to whom the governess s dictum on all\\npoints was final and decisive, had given them\\neach somewhat of an arbitrary tendency, caus-\\ning them sometimes to forget that the transitory\\nmembers of their household were not of undis-\\nciplined minds to which the governess s opinion\\nor decision must be conclusive and without\\nappeal.\\nThis trait was especially noticeable in the\\nlittle one, and many were the good-natured\\ntilts engaged in between herself and the various\\nnationalities around the festal board. Her\\ninformation was usually extremely correct but\\nshe could with diflflculty admit any point of\\nview other than her own, of a subject, and\\nrarely knew when she was beaten, for like\\nthe man convinced against his will, she\\nwould be of the same opinion still. This, of\\ncoarse, was her privilege and was of no very\\ngreat consequence, though forcibly illustrating\\nthe conservative tendency of old-world educa-\\ntion; and sometimes, even when we were quite\\nwilling to accept her conclusions, she had a way\\nof stating them with such a superior air, as if", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "148 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nshe had settled the question forever, that it was\\na trifle irritating. The little lady could not\\nyield readily to the idea that perhaps some of\\nthese dreadful Americans, being fully her\\nown age and often with wider experience, might\\npossibly be able to judge fairly well as to tho\\nelegance and propriety in diction and pronunci-\\nation of their native tongue like many other\\nforeigners, she had judged a whole nation by the\\nworst specimens that she had seen, failing to\\nreflect that if we of America should do the\\nsame by our immigrants from their shores, we\\nshould have indeed little conception of the\\nlearning and culture of the old world.\\nOne special passage-at arms interested us\\nall and, as America proved itself well supported\\nby standard authorities, it may not be out of\\nplace to relate it here. The word menace\\nwas used by an American, with the accent on\\nthe first syllable as customary.\\nOh! said the little one, You mean\\n*men-oce, I presume.\\nDo you find it so? inquired the American\\nwho was, in fact, from the United States; I\\nhave never known of its being pronounced other\\nthan mew-ace, though of course there may be\\nmore than one pronunciation. This, by the\\nway, is almost unheard of in correct German\\npronunciation, so it is hard for a German to\\nrealize that it may be different in Er glish.\\nThe possibility of two pronunciations, how-\\never, the little Fraulein would not admit men-\\nace it was and men-ace it must be uncondi-\\ntionally.\\nBut what is your authority? some one\\nasked.\\nI lived in England eighteen years, replied\\nthe little governess with dignity, and I always\\nheard it so.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 149\\nBut you must be aware, remarked another,\\nhow inattentive many persons, even of culture\\nand position, are to points in pronuncdation,\\nand I should not think that decisive.\\nWell, she returned somewhat warmly, I\\nshould think the English ought to know how to\\nspeak their own language.\\nCertainly they ought; assented the Ameri-\\ncan, but whether each individual does, is a\\nquestion, as it is in any nation. But as I feel\\nsure you did not hear all the English people\\nspeak and as English is also my own language,\\nI am confident in assuming that I am not in\\nerror though, as I said, it is possible it may\\nalso be correct to say men-ace, so I suggest we\\nleave it to any undeniable authority.\\nI know I am right; she replied; of\\ncourse, I do not know w^hat you Americans call\\nit, for really, with a superior air, the two\\nlanguages are quite different.\\nWhat do you say, Mrs. A.? inquired the\\nAmerican turning to an English lady at the\\ntable. She was a relative of Baroness Burdett-\\nCoutts, by the way, and the daughter of a baro-\\nnet, so should be a representative of a fairly\\ncultured class.\\nOh! don t consider me authority, she re-\\nplied, I seldom look up words; but I always\\ncall it as you do, me/t-ace.\\nThis was rather a staggerer for the little\\ngoverness, but rallying she said Webster gives\\nmen-ace.\\nWell, I never have noticed it, said the\\nAmerican, though I know he gives men-SLce,\\nbut where is your Webster? Let s look.\\nSo Webster was brought and consulted but,\\nalas for the little one, there it stood mew-\\nace, as the American had said, and nothing else.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "150 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nBut the small one was not yet vanquished.\\nOh, well! she returned, of course, he s\\nan American; he isn t a proper judge of pro-\\nnunciation.\\nNotwithstanding this rather rude thrust, the\\nrepresentative of America preserved an equable\\nfront and replied that he could not recognize\\nany such distinction, that he considered good\\nEnglish was also good American, and vice-\\nversa and that unless indisputable reference to\\nthe contrary was produced, he could see no\\nreason for changing his pronunciation.\\nWell, said Mrs. A., I have an English\\nstandard dictionary in my room, let us look at\\nthat.\\nIt was soon brought, and the word found\\nhere also but one pronunciation was given, and\\nthat was as before, ?ne??-ace.\\nThe little one saw it but said nothing,\\nthough we felt from the expression of her face,\\nthat it would always be men-ace w^ith her,\\nthough the heavens should fall. But, in spite\\nof this fixidity of idea, she was a most inter-\\nesting and engaging little woman.\\nAfterward when any question of this sort\\narose, Mrs. A s standard English dictionary\\ncompiled by an Englishman and published by\\nan Englishman in England, was consulted and\\nfound to agree with the best American usage al-\\nways. For instance such words as incompara-\\nble, Tuesday, jewel, immediately,\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2invalid, and the like, which are so often mis-\\npronounced with us as well as among the\\nEnglish, are given exactly the same in both\\nEnglish and American lexicons so that, in most\\ncases, the peculiar chewing of their words by\\nthe English, is as indefensible by their own au-\\nthorities, as the flat, strongly nasal intonation", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 151\\nof many Americans, is unsupported by our stan-\\ndards, though all these defects are wide-spread\\non the respective sides of the water. Of course,\\nthat the English speak well down in their\\nthroats while we use more head-tones, may be\\nprobably accounted for by difference in climate;\\nand equally of course, there are ignorant and\\ncareless Americans and English in all parts of\\nthe world. Later, on visiting England, I was\\nable to verify these observations,\\nI was really quite elated to find our usages so\\nwell authorized, for indeed American English\\nis quite generally regarded abroad, something\\nas the barbaric utterances of a Fiji Islander\\nmight be in the world at large it being taken\\nfor granted that any variation in an American,\\nfrom an accent or diction familiar to a foreigner,\\nmust be, of necesssity, an exhibition of deficient\\nculture, and the former is calmly put in the\\nwrong without appeal and without a suspicion\\non the latter s part, that the dreadful Ameri-\\ncan may possibly have had access to quite as\\nmany pure wells of English undefiled and\\nhave quaff ed therefrom with quite as much judg-\\nment as the critics themselves; and though I\\nmust sadly own that many of us have room for\\ngreat improvement in speaking, I will not grant\\nthat we have more than the average English-\\nman.\\nThere are three words, however, mamma,\\npapa, and were, which I am forced to ad-\\nmit are almost universally mispronounced even\\nby cultured Americans, though I am glad to\\nsay that these did not happen to be instanced in.\\nany of our little lingual skirmishes.\\nForeigners declare that we say mommer,\\npopper, and wur, and alas! I cannot deny\\nthat many of us do, and though I do not know", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "152 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nbut these are quite as correct as our English\\nfriends mammaw, papaw, and wear,\\nyet I could wish a little more attention might\\nbe given these words by some of us.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVI.\\nThe handsome and prosperous city of Hanover,\\nnow the capital of the Prussian province of this\\nname, possesses unusual advantages for the stu-\\ndent desiring to acquire the best German accent,\\nwhile its friendly, hospitable citizens make the\\nsojourn of a stranger in the midst of them, very\\ncomfortable and delightful.\\nIt was formerly the capital of the kingdom of\\nHanover, but in 1866 the Prussian William made\\nwar upon all neighboring small kingdoms that\\nwould not vow fealty to him, and though the\\nHanoverians resisted nobly, they were compara-\\ntively few in forces and were vanquished, while\\n-their king was banished.\\nThe older generation can not forget the suffer-\\nings and indignities entailed on their royal fam-\\nily, and, though the province is Prussian by\\nname, this portion is loyal at heart to the de-\\nposed line but such sympathizers have to be\\nextremely careful about expressing themselves,\\nfor the stringent and powerful police system is\\nready to make an example of any reported dis-\\nloyalty.\\nThe royal palace of Hanover from which the\\nunhappy reigning family was driven, now stands\\nvacant though kept up in good order for the oc-\\ncasional visits of Emperor William II. Many of\\nits choicest treasures have been taken to Berlin\\nbut the beautiful floors are undisturbed and are\\nsaid to be the finest in Europe. They are of\\nrare woods and inlaid in the most elaborate and\\nintricate fashion.\\n153", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "154 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nFrom another quarter of the city, a magnifi-\\ncent avenue of lime, or linden trees, one and\\none quarter miles long and one hundred and\\ntwenty feet wide, leads out to charming Schloss-\\nHerrenhausen, which was the favorite residence-\\nof Georges I., I J., and V.\\nThis estate is the private property of the de-\\nposed king; for this reason,] understand, es-\\ncaping confiscation, though he is nk^ver allowed\\nto reside or, in fact, to come here at all. For\\nthe benefit of his beloved Hanoverians, however,\\nhe keeps the grounds open to the public, who\\nare, by the payment of a small fee to the custo-\\ndian, also admitted inside the palace, the palm-\\nhouse and the mausoleum.\\nThe garden comprises one hundred and\\ntwenty acres and is laid out in old French style\\nwith clipped shrubs, antique statues, allegorical\\nfountains and an open air theater; the waters\\nof the great fountain rise to the unusual height\\nof two hundred and twenty-two feet I was told\\nhere that this fountain plays higher than any\\nin Europe, but am unable myself either to deny\\nor confirm the statement. A colossal sitting\\nfigure of the Electress Sophia stands on the spot\\nwhere she expired of heart disease in ITli.\\nThe mausoleum, containing monuments to King\\nErnst August and Queen Frederika by Ranch, is\\nthought by many to equal the famous one at\\nCharlottenburg.\\nThe royal stables have recently been removed\\nfrom Hanover. In them are kept the famous\\nHanoverian, (r Isabella, horses. We have\\nall heard of the Queen Isabella who vowed\\nnever to change her linen until certain troops\\nshould be victorious, and as a consequence was\\nobliged to wear it until it assumed a decidedly\\nsaffron-like hue. This tint, however objection-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 155\\nable in linen, is rather handsome in horses, and.\\nis the color of the favored equines who are the\\nbearers of the royal line no others are allowed\\nto use them the animals, with their deep canary\\ntint and white manes and tails, are beautiful\\ncreatures.\\nThe imposing Welfenschloss, or Palace of the\\nGuelphs, stands in the avenue of limes. The\\nedifice is of Romanesque style, having five towers\\nsince 1878 it has been used as a Polytechnic\\nSchool. A colossal figure of the Saxon Horse\\nstands in the great square in front of the palace.\\nHanover has a fine system of electric trams\\nmoved by the underground system that is, the\\nforce is conducted beneath the surface. I never\\nrealized before what a desirable thing it might\\nbe, to be rid of the trolley poles and lines. There\\nare also many horse-cars and funny little\\nomnibuses in which latter one may ride about a\\nmile and a half for about a cent and a quarter.\\nAccording to Baedeker, the guide, philoso-\\npher and friend of the general tourist, the cen-\\ntral railway station of Hanover, is one of ihe\\nmost imposing erections of its kind in Germany.\\nIt faces the Ernst August Platz and is embel-\\nlished by beautiful surroundings of fountains,\\nfoliage and flowers. Immediately in front rises\\na huge statue on horseback, of Ernst August,\\nThe Father of His People, done in bronze.\\nThe rails themselves, as in so many German cit-\\nies, are elevated upon a lofty viaduct under which\\nare arches through which passes the traffic of the\\ntown.\\nThere is a remarkably fine theater builJing in\\nHanover, where plays and operas of a superior\\ngrade are brought out. It is a very large struc-\\nture, of noble proportions, of sufficient height\\nonly to accord well with its breadth, two stories,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "156 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nI believe which reminds me of a modern police\\nregulation here and, I think, generally through-\\nout Germany, that no building shall be erected\\nhigher than four stories. Across the principal\\nfagade stretches a handsome portico under which\\nis a broad carriage approach. Nearly every day\\na fine band discourses the best of music for an\\nhour or two from this portico. Twelve statues\\nof celebrated composers adorn the balcony above.\\nThe edifice, like the railway station stands in\\nits own grounds, which are very handsome, or-\\nnamented with statues, fountains and flowering\\nshrubs.\\nHanover is well supplied with museums. The\\nmost interesting one to me, though not the\\nlargest nor the finest, is the Leibnitz House,\\nan ancient structure with immense pointed roof\\nin which are four of the eight stories of the edi-\\nfice. It was built in 1652, long before the height\\nof buildings was regulated by law.\\nHere are relics back to the thirteenth century,\\nwhile the chair, desk and other personal eflfects\\nof the celebrated philosopher, are preserved with\\nmuch care.\\nThe Kestner Museum, standing in lovely\\ngrounds, was presented to the town by Herr\\nHermann Kestner, grandson of Goethe s Lotta.\\nNicolai Chapel, some parts of which date\\nback to the twelfth century, is the oldest church\\nin Hanover and stands in a quiet greenery and\\nsurrounded by ancient tombs, albeit in one of\\nthe busiest portions of the town. It is now used\\nby the English colony as a place of worship.\\nHanover also has its fine war monument to the\\nfallen heroes of the vicinity. It is of Swedish\\ngranite and represents in colossal figures, a\\nGermania crowned by two genii, and is adorned\\nwith several reliefs of trophies, while in front is", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 157\\na mourning figure of Hanover witli two lions.\\nIt stands in a lovely parterre which in the season\\nis a mass of brilliant bloom, while in the im-\\nmediate background sway and bend the leafy\\nbranches of tali forest trees.\\nThese trees are on the southern boundary of\\nthe JEilenriede a beautiful wood extending out-\\nward from this point, and which was bequeathed\\nto the city by two maiden sisters, with the con-\\ndition that the area of the gift should never be\\nlessened: so, as the town spreads out, whenever\\na part of the bequest is sold for building lots,\\nan equally large portion must be purchased on\\nthe other side and thrown into the forest. Its\\nname is a combination of the donors, Eile and\\nRiede, and is a constant reminder to Hanover,\\nof the generous old maids to whom the city owes\\nso much.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVII.\\nThere are numerous relics of a bygone era in\\nHanover, especially in the Old Town, as a\\ncertain part is called. Narrow, crooked, old\\nstreets and quaint, antique houses delight the\\neye of the antiquarian and give the present gen-\\neration an idea of how former ones used to live.\\nThere are some queer old graveyards too, in\\nHanover, In one is the tomb of a giant, who\\nis depicted in standing posture, full ^ize, very\\ntall, upon his tombstone. Opposite him is a\\nsimilar tall stone whereon is graven the full\\nlength figure of a young lady popularly known\\nas the giant s wufe.\\nThe versatile litile German governess kindly\\nwent with us to this place to act as guide.\\nNever having been here since her childhood, she\\nwas anxious to visit it again. As an example\\nof how tradition may be made, I will relate that\\non our way thittier the little one told us that\\nthe old nurse who had charge of this family of\\ngovernesses when it was merely a family of little\\ngirls, used to take them to this grave and tell\\nthem how the lady buried there had died from\\ntight lacing, thus impressing on their youthful\\nminds the evils of that pernicious practice.\\nThe old nurse could not read, therefore her stock\\nof information was a mingled web of fancy and\\nmemory. To her, I believe, was also attribu-\\ntable the supposition that the deceased young\\nwoman was the giant s wife, and as her stone\\nwas as tall as bis, she, of course was a giantess.\\nBut we Americans are usually of rather an in-\\n158", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 159\\nvestigating turn of mind and not specially\\nprone to accept without question statements\\nleaning toward the marvelous; and thus our\\nparty on arrival upon the scene, began to view\\nthe surroundings with a cricket s eye. We\\nwere first surprised to note that the giant s\\nwife, instead of reposing by the side of her\\nhusband, was laid directly opposite him on the\\nother side of the wide path that led through the\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0cemetery. The two tall stones stood face to\\nface about ten feet apart. Bending down, we im-\\nmediately began to spell out the worn and nearly\\nindistinguishable, old German text upon the\\nrespective tombs. The giant s record was all\\nstraight enough; name, age, dates of birth and\\ndeath given; but when we turned to the stone of\\nthe lady, we met with several incongruities.\\nFirst, the giant was a hundred years older than\\nhis wife, second, she was not a giantess at all,\\nbut a slim, little girl represented as standing,\\nlife-size, on a sort of dais or platform, which\\nnecessitated the height of her tombstone; third,\\nshe was but fifteen when she died and had never\\nbeen married; and fourth, there was not the\\nslightest allusion to any circumstance that might\\nbe construed into any supposition that she had\\ndied of tight-lacing.\\nThe little governess was amazed. She said\\nshe had never thought of doubting the state-\\nments of her old nurse and so had continued to\\nbelieve and to narrate to others the impressive\\nstory handed down by that venerable dame, who\\nevidently possessed a vivid imagination and a\\niine faculty for pointing a moral and adorning\\na tale.\\nIn another old churchyard is a rather curious\\nsight. A heavy granite tomb, seemingly as sol-\\nidly built as possible, was erected many years", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "160 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nago in what is termed perpetuity, that is, a\\ncertain sum was paid to secure a guarantee that\\nthe grave should never be opened or disturbed\\nto make room for others, as is often done liere.\\nBut strange to say, a little seed fell into some\\ntiny crevice of the stone structure, and from that\\nseed has spiung a large and vigorous tree, that\\nexpanding, has thrust aside the mighty blocks of\\nponderous granite with resistless force, so that\\nthe tomb that was to have been sealed forever,,\\nhas been opened hy the hand of nature itself.\\nSuch an incident in the romance and legend-\\nloving land of Germany, could not pass unnoted,\\nand many are the mysterious and miraculous\\ntales woven about this opened grave,\\nIn the same churchyard may be found the\\ngrave of Charlotte Kestner, Goethe s Lotta,\\nlying by the side of her husband and other rela-\\ntives.\\nWe went also to visit the Jews burial-place,\\nnow closed, but dating back long ago to the time\\nwhen no Jew was permitted to reside within the\\ngates of Hanover. They were obliged to dwell\\noutside, coming in to do business but going out\\nat sunset. In that almost barbarous era, they\\nw^ere, of course, exposed to raids and robberies\\nwithout redress, with ro protection anywhere.\\nFinally the monarch of that day had pressing\\nneed of a large sum of money. This was raised\\nfor him by the Jews without compensation, on\\ncondition that they might be allowed a place with-\\nin the walls to bury their dead. It was granted\\nand to this spot we now went.\\nSomber and grim enough it seemed with its\\nnow never opened gates, its rank, neglected veg-\\netation and its queer,high tombs. The little gover-\\nness said that the Jews were buried standing, but\\nwhether this is a fact or merely another instance", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 161\\nof the old nurse s lively imagination, I am un-\\nprepared to say. I may add in this connection,\\nthat at the present day there are no more valued\\nand honored citizens in Hanover, than certain\\nof the once despised Jewish race.\\nIt v^as in Hanover that I first encountered the\\nunique, massive stoves of Germany. There is\\none of more or less size in each apartment of this\\npejision. They are each mounted on a large\\nbase, generally some kind of stone but some-\\ntimes solid wood heavily zincked. The most\\nimposing one is in the drawing-room, being\\nabojt eight feet high. It is composed of white\\ntiles built up into the form of a little temple and\\nornamented over the front door with a large me-\\ndallion in pale gray, representing a child and a\\nlamb. They tell a story in the house with much\\nrelish, of an unsophisticated American lady\\nwho, on calling to engage rooms, seemed much\\nfascinated by this structure, and finally inquired\\nin a melancholy tone befitting the painful refer-\\nence\\nMay I ask whose monument that is?\\nIt really is more suggestive of an obituary\\nmemorial than a heating-apparatus. Some of\\nthem are works of art in beautiful porcelain,\\nbut most of them are built of colored tiles heav-\\nily glazed. In many of the museums and old\\npalaces, one finds these stoves in very fanciful\\nstyles representing birds, lions, bears, and other\\nfigures I recall one in particular in the palace\\nof Sans Souct at Potsdam, in Frederick the\\nGreat s favorite promenade gallery, that was in\\nthe form of a large eagle in a surprisingly con-\\nvoluted attitude.\\nAnother variety of stoves of a later era is\\nmade of iron cast in various forms these are in-\\nteresting though not so unique as the monumen-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "162 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ntal tile structures of earlier generations. There\\nis one standing in my present apartment, mod-\\neled apparently after twin towers. The two\\nare connected at the base by a fire-box of good\\nsize, having a cathedral-like door. The towers\\nrise to a height of seven or eight feet and at in-\\ntervals are connected by what might be called\\nbridges going across from one to the other; in\\neach of these is a kettle-hole with a lid. Inves-\\ntigation shows that all this superstructure is\\nhollow and I suppose it is calculated to provide\\nfor an extensive circulation of hot air within,\\nand consequent radiation from the hot metal\\ninto the room. It is very ornamental and quite\\nimposing in its sable majesty. But these fanci-\\nful styles, I believe, are entirely out of date\\nnow, as even in slow-going old Germany, are\\ngradually coming into use the improved and\\nscientific methods of heating appertaining to the\\npres-ent day.\\nAs a matter of course the semi-annual stove-\\nmoving that is the horror of the rural house-\\nholder in our country, is not a feature in\\nGerman homes. If any change in stove matters\\nbecomes essential, a mason must be summoned\\nand the entire structure pulled down and re-\\nbuilt, i)ut this happens so seldom that the tem-\\npers of families are not often unduly strained in\\nthis respect.\\nI think I have omitted to mention how greatly\\ntravelers are annoyed abroad by the continual\\nreceipt of countkss cards, circulars and letters\\nof business firms, on many of which postage is\\ndue, which I, for my part, at first innocently\\npaid, not knowing then that I could refuse to\\naccept the documents. I attributed this inun-\\ndation so far as I was concerned, to the fact\\nthat I had in France often put up at large hotels", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 163\\nfrom whence, doubtless, arrivals were reported\\nto the papers. But comino: into Germany, I was\\npossessed of private addresses and in many\\nplaces avoided the hotels altogether, so I could\\nnot account for still being deluged as before. On\\nexpressing my wonder one day to my hostess, I\\nwas informed that all pension keepers were\\nobliged by law to send lists of the arrivals\\nand departures of their guests to the police for\\npublication, so that we were all before the\\npublic, whether we pleased or not.\\nIt is really quite surprising to an American to\\nfind how far the details of police interference\\nextend. Though one is not, on the moment of\\none s arrival in Germany, seized, as in France,\\nfiguratively by the throat and commanded to\\nyield up, at once, one s name, age, condition, in-\\ntentions and so forth, yet one must by the end\\nof a week, supply all these details to the police;\\nand the proprietor of any place of public, nay,\\neven also of private entertainment, must see\\nthat this is done, under penalty of fine for neg-\\nligence. The purposed length of stay and in-\\ntended further destination of each guest must\\nalso be reported.\\nAnother police regulation a very sensible one\\nbut astonishing to the American, is that no\\nperson may take a music lesson or practice with\\nopen windows, on any instrument, under penalty\\nof fine.\\nNeither can one have any festivities, lasting\\nbeyond ten p. m., even of the simplest nature,\\nwithout first gaining permission of the authori-\\nties. Even in the seclusion of one s own draw-\\ning-room and surrounded by one s family in\\ninnocent merry-making, is one liable to be inter-\\nrupted after that hour by the sudden appearance\\nof a uniformed official with orders to quit.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "164 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nNor can any person in planning a house place\\nwindows so that they overlook a neighbor s\\npremises without that neighbor s express per-\\nmission and dictation as to where and how he\\nshall be surveyed.\\nMany other formalities very surprising to us\\nwho dwell in the land of the free and the home\\nof the brave, might be cited but these few give\\nsome idea of what it is to live under a paternal\\ngovernment. I used sometimes in America to\\nthink, when groaning under exorbitant transpor-\\ntation charges, that it would be a good thing if\\nthe government would take the railways in\\ncharge, like the postal service, and insure a uni-\\nform, che-ip rate; but after knowing something\\nof the railways here, which are in governmental\\nhands, I have changed my mind. True, the\\nrates are fixed and very moderate, but oh! the\\nstruggle it is to get any information out of any\\nofficial. If you know all about a projected trip,\\nhe will deign to sell jou a ticket for any place,\\nbut as to giving you any advice or assistance in\\nregard to connections, facilities, or desirable\\nroutes, he has no idea or inclination. What\\ndoes it matter to him? He has his salary any-\\nway whether the road is well-patronized or not,\\nand there is no riv.il line to seduce passengers by\\nmore affable and obliging treatment. In Ger-\\nmany, France, England and, in fact, nearly all\\nforeign countries, such things as gratuitous\\ntime-cards, foldereJ, and general railway litera-\\nture are almost unknown.\\nHere again the Tourist Agencies are service-\\nable, as a traveler can get any desired informa-\\ntion at their offices without charge.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVIII.\\nLeaving Hanover, I started on what the Ger-\\nmans call a JRund-Reise, this name being ap-\\nplied to certain trips at reduced rates on which\\none takes no luggage except what can be carried\\nby hand. For the benefit of the lone w^oman,\\nI will explain that to decide on my route I went\\nto an office, not of an Agency, but of a private\\nindividual whose advertisement I had seen, who\\nlaid out for me a desirable route giving me a\\nwritten program with all details including esti-\\nmated expenses of the trip, for all of which I\\npaid him about sixty cents. Our business was\\ntransacted in German, but if the lone one\\ndoes not know the language, she would better\\ntake with her an interpreter to such a place, as\\nshe would not wif^h to misunderstand any of the\\nitems.\\nMy first stoppage was at the ancient and most\\ninteresting town of Hildersheim on the borders\\nof the Hartz mountains, a place that has re-\\ntained many mediaeval features. At a very\\nearly period, even as far back as the tenth cen-\\ntury, this town attained great importance as a\\ncradle of art, notonly mediaeval but Romanesque,\\nand according to authorities, one of the most\\nattractive and characteristic features consists of\\nits timber architecture in the German Renais-\\nsance style. The richly decorated facades ex-\\necuted by wood-carvers and sculptors, bear\\nabundant testimony of the taste, the humor and\\nthe enterprise of the period.\\nThe population is about thirty thousand and\\n165", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "166 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthe place is evidently quite a center of business\\nactivity. I immediately went out for a walk,\\nfollowing a wide, handsome street which soon\\nled into a crooked, old-fashioned thoroughfare\\nwhere, on either hand, might be seen examples\\nof the ornamental and substantial styles of the\\nbuilders of the fourteenth and fifteenth cen-\\nturies.\\nIt is difficult to describe these edifices they\\nare so totally unlike anything erected nowadays\\nthat a historical interest is added to the esthetic,\\nthrowing a glamour of the past over the reali-\\nties of the present.\\nSome one has said that a walk through the\\nstreets of a North German town is indeed a feast\\nof varied and permanent enjoyment for the\\ntraveler of refined taste in art. I should not\\nmake even that limitation, but declare that no\\none with eyes to see, could fail to be moved to\\nadmiration and to wonder.\\nPursuing my way, I reached a fine mediaeval\\nsquare called the Altstaedter Markt, which may\\nbe interpreted literally, Old-Town Market,\\nthough there is nothing about it now suggestive\\nof any modern market-place. It is surrounded\\nby marvelous, antique structures. Language\\nfails to convey an idea of their quaint and elab-\\norate beauty, and even photographs and engrav-\\nings are inadequate, as so much of the details,\\nwhich are worked out in the finest fashion, is\\nthere lost.\\nThe Knockenhauer Amthaus is said to be the\\nfinest timber building in Germany. It was con-\\nstructed in 1529 and is described in the guide-\\nbooks as a veritable gem of timber architec-\\nture. Above the five stories of the building\\nproper, rises the lofty gabled roof, itself con-\\ntaining several stories. After the quaint fashion", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN ^\\\\ANDERING 167\\nof the time each succeeding story projects some\\none or two feet beyond the one beneath. To\\nquote from a popular author, the fagade is cov-\\nered with figures and other ornamentation in\\nwhich painting and wood- carving vie with each\\nother. Scarcely a square inch of surface is\\nleft unadorned by conceits cunningly carved in\\nthe wood, both in high and low relief; such as\\ngarlands, leaves, birds, beasts, human beings,\\nmottoes and so forth, showing an astonishing\\nliveliness of fancy as well as an exquisite skill\\nin execution.\\nThese are alternated with panels and friezes\\nof paintings having a smoothness of finish sug-\\ngesting enamel.\\nThe figures are traced with a great deal of\\nhumor, while texts in Old-German script accom-\\npanying, vary from grave to gay, from lively to\\nsevere. They are usually in the pithy couplet\\nto which I have referred before. One of these\\nlittle paintings represents a jolly-looking bur-\\ngher of comfortable proportions, seated at a\\nwell-spread table upon which a huge joint and\\nvarious flagons of strong waters are extremely\\nprominent. Traced above this is the suggestive\\nlegend\\nAnd yet our fathers were no fools\\nStill another shows a monarch in rich robes\\nand surrounded by all the luxuries of the time,\\nwith a great heap of ready coin spread out be-\\nfore him on a table. Just behind, however,\\nstands the skeleton figure of Death ^bout to\\ngrasp his victim. Encircling this is a motto,\\nsomething to this efi ect:\\nNot even g-old\\nCan loose Death s hold!\\nA detailed description of the countless crna-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "168 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nments and (Conceptions wrought out upon this\\nstructure, is necessarily impossible here, even\\nwere nij stock of words sufficient for the subject-\\nAs one stands below and gazes upward on to\\nthe gradually projecting stories, where the in-\\ncreased height of each succeeding one is\\npartially counteracted by its shorter lateral dis-\\ntance from the beholder, one vi-^ws such a wealth\\nof decoration and curious handiwork that one\\ninvoluntarily wonders how long those people\\nlived who had time thus to elaborate every inch\\nof the outer surfaces of their buildings.\\nBut this is only one of the astonishingly\\nquaint, beautifiil and ancient edifices in this\\nsquare. The We/Iekind Uans dating from 1598,\\nis also most elaborately carved and painted.\\nThe descendants of the Wedekind family still\\noccupy the building, dealing on the lower floor\\nin colonial supplies, a business pritbably handed\\ndown from father to son or daughter, through\\nall the generations since this old house was new.\\nNumerous others of unusual interest and\\ncharm might be mentioned, but pages indeed\\nwould be required for a full catalogue.\\nOne very queer, old place in a side street, is\\ncalled the House of the Emperors on account of\\nhaving a row of Eoman Emperors carved all\\nalong the sides.\\nNumerous and beautiful also are the churches\\nof Hildesheim and the old cathedral with its\\nwondrous bronze doors and antique candelabrum.\\nThese and other marvelous specimens of work in\\nthis metal were executed under Bishop Bernward\\nbetween the years 995 and 1032. The doors date\\nfrom 1015 and are adorned with sixteen curious\\nand intricate reliefs representing the Fall and\\n.the Redemption.\\nThe large candelabrum is unique and a model", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 169\\nof its era; I saw copies of it afterward in sev-\\neral museiiLus in different sections.\\nIndeed in the time of Bernward and his im-\\nmediate successors down to 1154, Hildesheim\\nbecame one of the most important seats of\\nRomanesque art in Germany. The cathedral,\\nwhich was built in 1055-61 on the site\\nof an earlier church dating from 872, is of this\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0style, but was much changed and debased by\\nalterations of an unsjmmetrical character in the\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0eighteenth century.\\nSt. Michaels is called one of the finest Roman-\\nesque churches in Germany. It has a lovely\\nlocation upon a beautiful hill overlooking the\\nriver Innerste, and surrounded by noble trees.\\nFrom here a promenade extends along the Ram-\\nparts. by which name is known a succession of\\nfine, elevated parks occupying the place of the\\nformer veritable ramparts, and commanding a\\ncharming view.\\nTearing myself away from this peculiarly in-\\nteresting spot, I took train for Goslar, a little\\nfarther on into the fastnesses of the Hartz.\\nThe region grows hillier and more wooded as\\nwe wind along to the foot of the Rammelsberg\\nwhere is situated the quaint town which is our\\ndestination. The Rammelsberg is two thousand\\nand forty feet above sea-level and has yielded\\nvarying quantities yearly of at least eight differ-\\nent minerals, a surprising variety to be found in\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0so limited an area. It is honey-combed with\\nshafts and galleries in every direction.\\nTo the west of Goslar rises the Steinberg, not\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0so lofty as the Rammelsberg but very picturesque.\\nThe ancient town itself lying on the river Gose,\\nIs, if possible, still more charming than Hildes-\\nheim being only about one third as large, it is\\nmore rural and the streets are diversified by fre-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "170 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nquent gardens and arbors rich in foliage and\\nflowers.\\nAs I left the train, a vei-y sociably disposed\\nDienstmann, or porter, approached and, offering\\nhis services, threw my bag over his shoulder with\\nthe remark that it would much pleasanter to\\nwalk than to ride, if the gracious lady felt so\\ninclined. Nothing loath, 1 agreed and we pro-\\nceeded to thread the old-time pathways that\\nhave echoed for so many centuries to the tread\\nof hurrying and of halting feet. My guide was\\nexceedingly painstaking in pointing out various\\nnoteworihy and curious objects on our route,\\ngiving a brief history of each, wiih many orig-\\ninal comments.\\nNear the station is an immense round tower,\\nalmost a ruin, though signs of habitation were\\nevident, and sounds of hilarity issuing forth fell\\nupon the ear. It seems that this is a part of\\nthe ancient town-fortifications, but is now used\\nas a hotel, having an elegant, modern interior\\nlittle according with its antique outside.\\nMy Bienstmaiin piloted me to a funny little\\ninn where I received a cordial reception after\\npaying requisite attention to the demands of a\\nsomewhat vigorous appetite, I retired to my\\nroom which proved to be one of the quaintest\\nand cleanest of chambers, with shining blue floors,,\\nlow, dazzlingly white walls, and heavy beams\\nand rafters of dark, polished wood, testifying to\\ncenturies of support and shelter. There was a\\nconcert going on in the coffee-room below, and\\nindeed all night long the sound of musical in-\\nstruments and of voices uplifted in melody,\\nfloated throvigh the air, mingling with my\\ndreams.\\nThere are manj^ remaining evidences in Gos-\\nlar, of its old and honorable history. Here again", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 171\\none sees the queer, old buildings and the won-\\nderful workmanship before described, but it is a\\nsleepy little place and quietly enough it lay\\namong its cool shadows, as I walked abroad\\nnext morning to gaze further upon its beauties.\\nThe people are cordial and friendly, as gener-\\nally throughout Germany. They rarely pass\\none without courteous salutation, and even lit-\\ntle children nod and smile and cry, 6rw^ew Toy.\\nIt is a pretty custom and makes a stranger ft el\\nvery much at home.\\nThis fashion of salutation is very dilFerent in\\nFrance and Germany than at home in America,\\nor in England either, for that matter.\\nWhile it is carried much further in Germany\\nthan in France, one is always expected to\\nexchange bows there with whomever one may\\nmeet in the hall, lift or drawing-room of one s\\nabode, unless indeed there is a crowd of strang-\\ners or one is in a very large establishment, like\\nthe mammoth hotels; and even in these, one is\\nexpected to bow to his companions at table, and\\nto bid his attendant good morning, and good\\nnight, with great punctiliousness and to Ure\\nmuch formality in making requests or thanking\\none for services. The French servant or trades-\\nperson is addressed as Ilonsieur, Iladame or\\nMa^m^selle, as the case may require, and he or\\nshe is equally courteous in response, always ad-\\ndressing a superior in position, in the third\\nperson. This latter form, though observt d\\nsomewhat in German} is not so universal as in\\nFrance; but in Germany a pers^on would be con-\\nsidered hopelessly ill-bred who, no matter how\\nlarge the table, should take or leave his seat\\nwithout catching the eye of the hostess, (who\\nalways presides,) and making a profound bo v\\nas he ejaculates Gesegnete MaJilzeit, which is", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "172 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\na German equivalent for Good Appetite!\\nNew arrivals, of course, do not always know\\nof this usage, and the situation is (\u00e2\u0080\u00a2ometiroes a\\nlittle embarrassing. I presume we all remember\\nMark Twain s comical setting forth of this\\ncustom as he encountered it. Even in traveling,\\nit is usual for anyone entering or leaving a\\nrailway-carriage, to acknowledge the presence\\nof others by a courteous bow.\\nThe French and Germans too, seldom, if ever,\\nfail to formally present strangers to each other,\\nand I found the fashion of hand-shaking, which\\nI had supposed distinctly American, was really\\nparticularly German.\\nJust across from my hotel, stands Goslar s\\nBath-Haas, or Town Hall, simple but quaint,\\ndating from the fifteenth century. Among the\\nmany curosities, old books, paintings, charters\\nand so forth, may be specially mentioned one\\nof a widely different nature, a Beisskatze,\\n(Biting-Cat!) a kind of cage in which shrews\\nused to be imprisoned.\\nUpon an eminence on the outskirts of the\\ntown rises a palace, the Kaiserhaus, said to be\\nthe oldest secular edifice in Germany. Its loca-\\ntion is remarkably fine and the magnificent old\\nbuilding, which was most judiciously restored\\nin 1878, looks down in serene dignity upon the\\nlittle world at its feet.\\nWithin, the Imperial Hall is fifty six yards\\nlong, seventeen wide and thirty-five feet high.\\nOne side is almost entirely of glass, so many\\nand immense are the windows. Opposite\\nthe central one, is the ancient Imperial\\nThrone which stood in the cathedral until 1820,\\nand then came into the possession of Prince\\nCharles of Prussia. In the chapel adjoining, is\\nthe painted tomb of Henry III., containing\\nhis heart, preserved at Hanover until 1884.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 173\\nSomewhat distant from this castle are some\\nvenerable ruins that testify to the ancient\\ngrandeur of Goslar, around which are entwined,\\nmany legends. Heine and other poets have sung\\nmany a sweet song inspired by the beauty and.\\nromance of this vicinity.\\nNot very far from these ruins stands the\\nNorth Portal, all that is left of a once famous\\ncathedral founded in 1039. This portal is now\\nused as a place of worship by itself, and is in-\\ndeed antique and quaint. (1 know that adjec-\\ntive is overworked, but what is a poor scribe to\\ndo in the limitations of the English language?)\\nA richly sculptured column stands at the en-\\ntrance, surmounted by a Gorgon s head, reminis-\\ncence, it is said, of the old-time use of such heads\\nto ward off evil influences.\\nIn the gable over the entrance, are odd-look-\\ning colored figures of the Emperor Konrad, his\\nwife Gesela and Saints Mathew, Simon and\\nJude. What living, breathing realities these\\nold saints and martyrs i^eemed to the people of\\nthe earlier centuries.\\nInside the Portal are several interesting relics\\nof the ancient cathedral, among which may be\\nnoted an oblong box of brass plates, borne by\\nfour crouching figures and containing numerous\\ncircular holes. It is popularly called Kodi s\\nAltar, from the supposition that it was for-\\nmerly a part of the shrine of that idol, but no\\none really knows for what it was originally de-\\nsigned.\\nThat the ancient genius and skill in wood-\\ncarving are not yet extinct in this region, is\\nproved by the existence of a most marvelous\\nclock which is on exhibition here in the home\\nof its maker. To visit it, I wandered down a\\ncountry-like lane bordered on each side by sweet-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "174 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsmelling gardens and picturesque homes, until I\\ncame to a little cottage charmingly set within a\\nbower of bloom.\\nFollowing the direction indicated by a painted\\nhand, I entered this enchanting spot and pro-\\nceeded beneath the vine-wreathed lattice-work\\nto the open door of the dwelling. Here were\\ngathered some half a dozen sight-seers, like my-\\nself desirious of inspecting the wonderful\\ntime-piece, though none of them from across the\\nsea.\\nThe maker and owner soon appeared and\\nshowed us all the curiosities of his master-piece.\\nIt was in the form of a temple and is most elab-\\norate in detail, being all hand-work and\\ncarved with the utmost delicacy from woods\\nof varying colors and hardness, some o\u00c2\u00a3\\nwhich were the product of America. At the\\nstroke of the hour, music is heard, sentinels at\\nvarious points salute, soldiers in the center sur-\\nrounding a figure of Christ on the cross, manip-\\nulate their arms and implements, while one lifts\\nhis spear and pierces the side of the crucified\\nJesus. Above, a door opens and the Twelve\\nApostles appear one by one, and pass before a\\nfigure of the risen Lord, each bowing his head\\nas he comes opposite to receive the benediction\\nof the Savior, who extends his hands in bless-\\ning.\\nNumerous other features, such as details for\\nshowing the seasons, the times of heavenly\\nbodies, days of the week and month, the cur-\\nrent year, the presenting of a birthday card at\\na given date and so forth, all displaying a sur-\\nprising store of skill and patience in design and\\nexecution, are to be noticed.\\nThe structure stands about eight feet high\\nand was intended as a present to the King of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 175\\nHanover, being nearly completed when the\\ntroublous times of 1866 arose, which ended\\nin his banishment; after which the ruling\\npowers would not allow the old artisan to carry\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0out his project, so he kept the clock himself and,\\nputting it on exhibition at about twelve and one\\nhalf cents a head, has made his fortune.\\nOne characteristic of the neighborhood of\\nGoslar is the Farbensuempfe, ponds fed by\\nstreams from the Rammelsberg, and yielding\\nthe ocher dye so profitable here. Goslar was\\nfor a long time the favorite residence of the\\nSaxon and Salic Emperors. Henry IV. was\\nborn here in 1050 and the attachment of the cit-\\nizens to him involved the town in his misfor-\\ntunes. In 1204 it was utterly destroyed by\\nOtho IV., but rallied for many a long year of\\nprosperity afterward. To-day, prosperous and\\nthriving ia its quiet fashion, it sits among its\\ngreen hills and wooes with an irresistible charm,\\nthe fancies of the poet and the painter.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIX.\\nAnd thus I kept wandering on in the beauti-\\nful June weather, each day penetrating a little\\nfarther into the mystic region of the Hartz.\\nNever traveling at night, I had full opportunity\\nto enjoy all the romantic scenery of this far-\\nfamed locality.\\nIt is indeed lovely, but with this, as with so\\nmany spots of historic and legendary interest^\\nthe enchanting element is not so much the ac-\\ntual characteristic of the scenery about us, as it\\nis the connection between it and the songs and\\nstories familiar to us since our earliest recollec-\\ntion, and the legendary lore that has come down\\nthrough so many centuries, from a credulous\\nand impressionable people; from a time when\\never)^ grove had its dryads, every stream its\\nnixies, every cave its gnomes and every mount\\nits ogres.\\nYet this locality, while very picturesque and\\ncertain to arouse enthusiasm in the romantic\\nbreast, in actual beauty falls far below our owu\\nGreen, White, Adirondack or Cumberland ranges,\\nnor can it in any wise compare with the grandeur\\nof our Rocky, Nevada or Coast mountains.\\nBut there is a quaintness and a wildness,\\nwhich yet is not at all like the solitude of the\\nvirgin forests and stretches of our own new land\\nnot a real isolation but rather an arrest of de-\\nvelopment by some mysterious spell, as of the\\nSleeping Beauty in the Wood, which attracts\\nand charms.\\nThe Hartz is chiefly a mining region and con-\\nire", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 177\\nsists of an isolated range rising abruptly from\\nthe plain on all sides, with heights and recesses\\nunattainable in former rude eras, only by the\\nmost indefatigable.\\nWhat wonder then that those heights and re-\\ncesses above, looked upon by the toilers in the\\nbowels of the earth below, but rarely save\\nthrough the mists of morn and eve, should be\\npeopled at will with ghostly multitudes, by the\\nteeming fancies of the mystical and poetical\\nGerman of the Middle Ages?\\nIt seems strange to know to-day that the\\nhighest peak is only thirty-four hundred and\\nfifteen feet above sea-level; but the atmosphere\\nis clear and the sky is lovely, Oh so lovely ;and\\nthere is something about the air that exhilarates\\nand makes one feel that the world is indeed\\nvery good. What is it Goethe sings?\\nHow brightly beams\\nThe sun on me\\nThe fields and streams\\nSmile happily.\\nThe flowers appear\\nOn shrub and plain;\\nAs if to hear\\nThe wild bird s strain.\\nAnd love and mirth\\nTo all Increase;\\nO, Sun and earth\\nO, bliss and peace\\nThe climate of the Hartz region is said to be\\nmuch like that of Central Norway, even the\\nheats of mid-summer being here agreeably tem-\\npered by the north winds of the Baltic Sea.\\nMany varieties of railway carriages do I en-\\ncounter in this expedition; some entirely unique,\\nothers a combination of several different styles\\naltogether making such a confusion in my mind.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "178 ONE WOMAN WANDEEING\\nthat I give up all idea of trying to remember\\nthem. One, however, I specially recollect be-\\ncause exteriorly it had a familiar look and I\\nthought I had actually come across an American\\ncar at last. To be sure, it was of a rusty brown\\ncolor, had very small windows and its outer\\nfinish was about on a par with American freight-\\ncars, but it had end platforms with steps, and\\ndoors leading from these into the end of each\\ncar like ours. I entered, but to my disappoint-\\nment found that within it was divided off into\\ntiny compartments as usual, though the aisle\\nran between the seats lengthwise, instead of\\nacross as ordinarily; but each compartment was\\nshut off from the next by a door wtich the con-\\nductor locked every time he passed through, so\\nthat I could really perceive no advantage over\\nthe common style, except the fact that the\\nconductor did not have to be exposed to the\\nweather.\\nNow we are in motion again. As we go on\\nand upward, the way becomes more winding\\nand we are more and more shut in by the encom-\\npassing hills. Oker, Harzburg, Islenburg, Werni-\\ngerode and many other beautiful hill-side towns\\nspread out before us, each inviting us to tarry\\nawhile amid its natural loveliness.\\nThe former lies at the entrance of the wild\\nOkerthal, the road ascending which, affords\\npicturesque views of the precipitous cliffs. II-\\nsenburg is situated just outside the Ilsethal, one\\nof the finest valleys of the Hartz, presenting a\\nsuccession of remarkably striking rock and for-\\nest-pictures that at times are almost sublime.\\nThe road, winding in and out and around the\\nmost charming scenes, follows a rushing moun-\\ntain-brook, enlivened by a series of miniature\\nwaterfalls, in the midst of which one sees some", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 179\\nsurprising rock-formations. The most conspic-\\nuous, perhaps, is the llsenstein, a precipitous\\nbuttress of granite, rising to a lieight of five\\nhundred feet above the valley.\\nMany are the foot-paths leading through all\\nparts of this romantic region, and pedestrians of\\nall grades and nations abound, from the bare-\\nfooted peasant with shoulders bowed beneath a\\nheavy burden, to the fully equipped, modern\\nglobe-trotter with fancy outfit and sturdy\\nalpenstock, for bikes are here at a discount.\\nHere and there, at the most available points,\\nmay be seen some extensive and imposing castle.\\nThat of Count Wernigerode, above the town of\\nthe same name, is particularly picturesque in\\nits lofty situation, looking down the slopes of\\nthe Hartz and upon the junction of two fine rivers.\\nEverywhere upon the most inaccessible crags,\\nare seen the crumbling ruins, in various degrees\\nof disintegration, of a ruder and more ancient\\narchitecture, whose former possessors, once\\ndwelling in continual warfare among these pla-\\nteaus and peaks, have left little trace of their ex-\\nistence, other than these eloquent vestiges of\\ngenerations long since vanished.\\nThe road now ascends still more abruptly\\nthrough the beautiful, pine-clad valley of the\\nSteinerne Renne, where the shadows are dense\\nand silent and where the dashing mountain-tor-\\nrent rushes downward over its stony bed,\\nto find its level so far away in the vale be-\\nlow. One becomes almost bewildered with\\nthe constant recurrence of cascade and cliff,\\nof rock and rill, of sombre shade and sunny\\nstretch.\\nWe are favored with delightful weather and\\nwe hope for its continuance, for now we are\\nabout to reach the culminating point of our ex-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "180 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\npedition, the ascent of the mist-enveloped and\\nspecter-haunted Brocken.\\nWe come at nightfall to the enchanting town\\nof Blankenburg, which seems fairer and more\\ncharming than any before. They are so clean,\\nthese little towns, so trim and tidy, that one\\nfeels as if it were all the time some festal date\\nand that everything was in order for the occa-\\nsion.\\nI leave the train and am inducted into a\\nspick and span little bus, that drives off and\\naway, uphill and down, through smooth, twisty\\nand narrow, but beautifully kept streets, where\\nthe old-fashioned houses seem to smile cordially\\nupon the stranger. Finally we arrive at a queer\\nold inn and drive right in at, apparently, the\\nfront doorway, but which proves to be a paved\\nway, over which are bedrooms, and on the one\\nhand, the dining-room, on the other, the office. A\\nlittle farther along is a circular court under a glass\\nroof, all within the walls of the dwelling, where\\nthe horses are unhitched and the vehicles left,\\nwhile the animals themselves are led off through\\na rear door, to their own special quarters.\\nA stairway within, at one side of the front\\npaved entrance, all decorated in gay, blooming\\nplants and graceful vines, and overlooking the\\ncourt which is also adorned with greenery, led\\nto my apartment. This proved to be a large,\\nold-fashioned room most comfortable and inter-\\nesting, having three, instead of the usual two\\nbeds. I observed to the friendly Ober-Eellner,\\nas he ushered me into my quarters, that, as I\\nwas alone, a smaller room and fewer beds would\\namply accommodate me, but he only replied\\nsjiilingly, Ach! dass machts nichts, and left\\nme alone with my glory.\\nHere the feather-bed covering reappeared,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 181\\nwhich I had not seen for some time, and even\\nthen not quite in the present guise, for here\\nthere was literally no other covering except the\\nsheet. In the cool, equab e climate of this re-\\ngion, the funny, exaggerated cushions are by\\nno means uncomfortable, even in summer, though\\nexceedingly difficult to keep properly adjusted,\\nduring the silent midnight watches.\\nI sleep well and rise next morning eager to\\ndelight my eyes with the beautiful prospect.\\nOn looking from my window, I find the street\\nso narrow that I have to make an effort to see\\npersons on the other side below, though I am\\nonly in the second story but it would be very\\neasy to converse with my neighbors on the cor-\\nresponding floor across the way.\\nI go down and prepare for an exploration.\\nFor some time, English-speaking persons have\\nbeen growing rare and rarer, and now I find\\nthat there is no one in the house nor probably\\nin the place, who uses my native tongue. This\\ngives me a rather peculiar sensation and tends\\nto foster extreme deliberation on my part, as I\\nstrive to cogitate in German.\\nThe road past the inn-door, goes on almost\\nperpendicularly up a hill, on the summit of\\nwhich looms the lofty, ducal Sckloss, occupied\\nby His Grace usually only in the shooting-season.\\nIt contains numerous mementoes of the Empress\\nMaria Theresa, in the way of books, pictures\\nand so forth. It is a lordly building of yellow-\\nish stone and, both from its position and its\\narchil ecture, is very commanding.\\nTo reach it, one passes the stately old Rath-\\nIlaus into which five balls are built to commem-\\norate the bombardment by Wallenstein, during\\nthe Thirty Years War.\\nLl l avoid the abrupt ascent and go around by", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "182 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\neasy stages to another beautiful eminence, which\\nI learn rejoices in the suggestive name of the\\nSchnappenberg.\\nThis is an almost level plateau most attract-\\nively laid out in walks and groves. I find a seat\\nunder a spreading tree and gaze oS over the\\nlovely scene. Far down below are the pictur-\\nesque slopes dotted with elegant and tasteful\\nhomes, and blossoming in a riot of color. The\\nclean, tidy, irregular streets wind in and out\\nand echo to the steps of smiling people and the\\nmerry shouts of children.\\nTo the north from across the valley, rises the\\nRegenstein, a precipitous cliff two hundred and\\nforty feet above the plain. Here may be seen\\nthe remnants of an ancient castle, standing out\\ndistinctly in the clear sunshine, its old walls\\nsadly demolished and, indeed, little left of it\\nexcept some vaults and embrasures hewn in the\\nsolid rock. As long ago as 918, this fortress\\nwas erected by Henry the Fowler, and for cen-\\nturies successfully resisted the attacks of ene-\\nmies, but it was finally reduced by Frederick\\nthe Great, and conquering time has done the rest.\\nOn another side, the Ziegenkopf lifts up its\\nbulk thickly covered with dense timber. On its\\nvery apex rises one of the present Emperor s\\nwatch-towers, a lofty, solidly built erection,\\nwhich may possibly become one of the ruins\\nto be noted generations hence.\\nNot a peak nor a cavern nor a waterfall in\\nthis vicinity, but has its store of legends and,\\nas I drop my eyes to the little book of Harzsagen\\nin my hand, I see the familiar names repeated\\non every page, usually in connection with a\\nbeautiful, unfortunate princess and her lover, a\\nvaliant and splendid young prince for in the\\nolden day, even before the gentle Will had", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 183\\nsaid it, it was as true as now that, All the\\nworld loves a lover.\\nThere was some subtile charm about this\\npretty town that made me loth to leave it, but\\nthe Broeken unattained still loomed ahead, so I\\nbade adieu to my aifable hosts, in my best Han-\\noverian German, (which, I fear however, was not\\nproperly appreciated in this district of dialects,)\\nand, taking train, still set my face heavenward.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XX.\\nThe next stage of my journey was made in a\\ndelightful observation-car somewhat larger\\nthan the ordinary continental carriage. It\\nseemed more like a spacious, movable piazza,\\nthan a public conveyance. The sides, furnished\\nwith curtains adjustable at will, were entirely\\nopen except for a low wall about a yard high, in\\nwhich was a gate for entrance on each side; the\\ntop formed a sort of canopy a long seat ran\\nacross the two ends, facing each other, and two\\nmore ran back to back down the middle, on each\\nside of a round table that was fixed in the cen-\\nter. There was plenty of room and every oppor-\\ntunity for outlook.\\nOur ascent was slow and gradual; now passing\\nover slopes of verdant hue embroidered in bril-\\nliant wild flowers, now entering stretches of\\nforest where the golden sunshine but filtered\\ndown through the close-set leaves and branches.\\nYet nowhere is that wild look that we see in\\nlike districts in America everywhere there\\nseemed to be homes, rustic and humble enough,\\nit might be, but still places to live, while every-\\nthing had an air of having been in use a long\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2time.\\nThe fields, the roadways, the cliffs, the ra-\\nvines, were ablaze everywhere with a splendor\\nof golden color from a vigorous shrub that\\nseemed to toss aloft its arms in joy and beam\\nradiantly forth upon the world, with its millions\\nof yellow blossoms. A kindly lady, noticing my\\ninterest, told me that this plant was called (xm-\\n184", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 185\\nstar I am sorry to say that this name did not\\nsatisfy me at all I should have expected some-\\nthing more suggestive from the resourceful\\nGerman people.\\nOccasionally we come out upon a reach of\\nlevel plateau where nestles some little village of\\nTed-roofed cottages. We pass a stalactite cave\\nthat has been known for centuries, and another\\ncavern opened recently which is remarkable for\\nthe number and variety of fossil remains found\\nwithin.\\nPresently we ascend a mill-valley with very\\ncurious rock formations, and finally quit the\\ntrain at Rothehuette, for the remainder of the\\nascent is ^uade by horse-carriage. The road is\\nkept in excellent condition and for a while we\\nroll on through a pleasant-looking country with\\nfair, cultivated fields wherein women, old and\\nyoung, and children of all sizes are toiling,\\nrarely a man.\\nBeautiful shade trees relieve the landscape\\nand frequent, tiny villages come into view, of\\nantiquated and picturesque characteristics. The\\nhighest is Hoppe, a scattered hamlet very popu-\\nular as a resort, for all over the Brocken is to be\\nfound that modern institution, the Summer\\nHotel.\\nThe contrast between the simple peasant who\\nhas probably never left his native nook upon the\\nmountain-side, and the hlase resorter, is\\nmarked and amusing. Numerous waterways\\nintercept our path, spanned by rustic bridges.\\nTinkling cascades make music. Cool, green\\nshades embosom us. The neighboring rocks as-\\nsume grotesque and fanciful forms. The forest\\ngrows denser and the face of the earth is one\\nwild conglomeration of moss-covered boulders\\niStanding at every angle. How our road was", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "186 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\never hewn through, must remain a mystery to-\\nthe feminine mind.\\nHere, at one of the narrowest portions, with\\na stream on one hand ai;d the tall trees spring-\\ning from their rocky bed close on the other, we\\nmeet a descending carriage consternation\\nseizes on all; women scream and men ejacu-\\nlate forcibly. The occupants of the new carri-\\nage, being young and agile scramble out, while\\nthe men unhitch the horses and tilt the vehicle\\nin sufh a way that our party is enabled to\\nscrooge past, and we heartlessly leave the\\nothers to their fate as we ascend still higher.\\nWe are now near the top. Vegetation be-\\ncomes very scanty near the summit and no trees\\ngrow, so says our conductor, within one hundred\\nand thirty feet from it.\\nSoon the great hotel looms up before us,\\nblack against the western sky. At one side, but\\ndetached, is a tower of mason-work from which,\\nund.er favorable conditions, may be seen the\\ndomes and spires of Magdeburg, Erfurt, Gotha,\\nCassel, Hanover and Brunswick. A fine vista,\\ntrul} but I had in my mind s eye, the ravishing\\nprospect beheld from about the same elevation,\\non Mount Hamilton, California, and this suf-\\nfered in comparison so I turned my attention to\\nthe consideration of the mental pictures evolved\\nfor us so long ago, by Goethe and others of the\\nmighty ones in the arena of German poetry and\\nsong. Here is the meeting-place of the\\nwitches, on Walpurgis Night, made immortal by\\nGoethe s vivid word painting. Here are several\\ncurious and grotesque granite formations, the\\nDevil s Pulpit, the Witches Altar, the Hob-\\ngoblin s Footstool. Here is the habitat of\\nthe Brocken s Spectre.\\nAs the sun sank into his nightly bed and the\\npallid mists of twilight began to sweep up and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 187\\naround the shoulders of the mountain, while that\\npeculiar silence wherein there is no chirp of\\nbird, no rustle of leaf, no stir of animal, be-\\ncame more and more impressive as the tourists\\nwithdrew by degrees into the hostelry, I let my\\nfancy run backward to the time before the ma-\\nterialization of the Summer Tripper, and the\\nHoliday Excursionist, when here the old\\nBrocken lifted up its head in utter solitude.\\nFor how many ages did storm and wind and\\ncloud, and all the forces of nature, hold revel\\nabout this hoary crown? Not strange is it, that\\nthe untutored mountaineer, gazing upward from\\nbelow at the conflicts of the elements, should\\nhave discerned therein the voices and the move-\\nments of supernatural beings? Hardy indeed\\nwas he who would venture to brave a closer\\nproximity, by clambering into these lofty areas.\\nBut two lines of daily stages with their hilar-\\nious loads of vacation parties, make short work\\nof sentiment, and the mystic mystery of the\\nspot is gone forever.\\nI retired to my room in pensive mood, almost\\nhoping that some wandering sprite of the olden\\nages, might float into my vicinity, for are not\\nsuch immortal? I awoke in the morning to look\\nout upon an ocean of mist wherein we were shut\\noff from all visible connection with our mun-\\ndane sphere but I had been visited by no spec-\\nters, no witches, and had seen nothing of a more\\nstartling nature than a collection of brilliantly\\nred matches with orange tips, which certainly\\ndid seem allied to regions of sulphurous and\\nfiery character.\\nA little later we were driving away through\\ntile enveloping fog, which gradr.ally disappeared\\nas we descended into the valley, and I again re-\\nturned to Blankenburg, from whence I resumed\\nmy tour of this interesting country.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXI.\\nThe valley of the Bode, the grandest point in\\nthe Hartz Mountains, is reached from Blanken-\\nburgby a daily char-a-hanc, or picnic-wagon, to\\nThale. Under the continuance of the clear\\nJune sunshine, I entered the vehicle one day\\nand rode along the fair slopes and stretches lying\\nbetween the two places.\\nThe carriage highways through this part of\\nthe country are excellent, being hard, smooth\\nand, where the lay of the land permits, broad.\\nA smiling, peaceful scene it was, through\\nwhich we passed on this beautiful morning;\\nrealizing on the one side, a perfect ideal of a pasto-\\nral landscape, while on the other, to the left, rises\\na very remarkable series of huge, irregular\\nmasses of sandstone, known as the Devil s\\nWall.\\nThese do not form a plateau, but are thrust\\nup through the turf in broken lines now ris-\\ning singly and in thin, flat-sided, jagged forms\\nand again in fanciful shapes of considerable\\nbulk, which are named as mediaeval imagination\\nsuggested, as the King s Chair, the Giant s\\nTable, and so forth. These all spring up ab-\\nruptly, penetrating the green earth which lies\\nsmooth and unbroken on either side, so that the\\nwhole formation has indeed the semblance of a\\ngigantic wall, through which some enemy has\\nmade innumerable and irreparable breaches.\\nEvery point is legend-haunted, of course,\\nwhile the wall itself is accounted for by the tale\\nthat the devil, having been outwitted in certain\\n188", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 189\\ntransactions between himself and the good bur-\\nghers of Blankenburg, and being thereby con-\\nvinced that they were, in modern parlance, too\\nmany for him, resolved to build a v^all between\\nthat special quarter of the country where he was\\nable to get the better of the simple folk, and\\nthat of the proud Blankenburgians who had\\npresumed to overmaster his plans and had even\\ndared to jeer at him as the stupid devil.\\nSo, attended by his unholy crew, he began op-\\nerations at night, and great progress was made\\nin the darkness. But as the narrator quaintly\\nremarks, What good was it? Whatever was\\nbuilt at night, at day-break fell in pieces again\\nas soon as the morning sun shone thereupon\\nand no matter how much and how sorely they\\nwearied themselves to build all firm and secure,\\nthey found when they would continue the next\\nnight that all their work was fallen down and\\nshattered. At length did the despairing devil\\ngive over his attempt to divide God s King-\\ndom by walls and rocks, but the testimony of\\nhis impious undertaking is yet seen in the\\nrent and ragged ruins which are standing to-\\nday, between Blankenburg and Thale.\\nWhen we reached the charming village of\\nThale we found ourselves directly at the foot of\\nthe towering entrance to the Bode-Thal, through\\nwhich plunges a roaring river guarded on either\\nhand by bold precipices covered with a heavy\\ngrowth of forest trees and shrubs. Midway up,\\nand on the top of these heights, is situated\\nmany a comfortable inn of more or less preten-\\ntions.\\nThe Iioss-T7-ap2}e, a great, granite rock, here\\nprojects bastion-like into the dale, and rises ab-\\nruptly to a height of six hundred and fifty feet.\\nBeautiful is the view obtained from its summit.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "190 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nA singular impression here in the roclty surface,\\nresembling a gigantic hoof-print, is said to have\\nbeen left by the steed, or liofs, of a lovely young\\nprincess who leaped across the valley at this\\npoint to es-cape the pursuit of an ogre who had\\nsingled her out for his victim. In her terrible\\nspring, she lost from her head her golden crown,\\n(for, of course, no self-respecting princess would\\nappear without her crown,) which fell into the\\nabyss below and is, in its turn, the central figure\\nof many legends.\\nNumerous are the picturesque drives all\\naround in this neighborhood, supplemented by\\nfootpaths leading on where vehicles may not fol-\\nlow, into entrancing regions of woodland and out\\non to the heights above.\\nAnother Witches Dancing-Place, more pic-\\nturesque but not so weird s that of the Brock-\\nen, lies opposite the Boss-Trapjje, than which it\\nis two hundred and ten feet higher. The whole\\nvicinity is indeed most interesting and, to one\\nwho enters into sympathy with the people and\\ngathers up the folk-lore of the environment, it\\nfurnishes a w^onderful store of memories.\\nModern customs and conveniences, however,\\nare by no means unknown in this charming sec-\\ntion. Directly opposite the station, across the\\nwide boulevard, is a splendid villa standing in\\nan enchanting park where fountain, flower, fo-\\nliage and winding way vie with each other in\\npromoting the delight and refreshment of the\\nvisitor. This place, having the singular name\\nof the Ten Pound Hotel, is but one of several\\nequally attractive though perhaps not on so mag-\\nnificent a scale.\\nTime failed then to permit me to enjoy, a^ it\\ndoes now to recount, all the charms of the local-\\nity, so, reluctantly turning away from the rocks", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 191\\n;and crags and bowery nooks, I took the train\\nfor Berlin,\\nThe face of the country changes abruptly in\\nthis direction, and leaving behind me the cas-\\ntled cliffs and rocky dells, I sped on through a\\nvalley as level as some of our great, western\\nplains, arriving at my destination with nothing\\nmore eventful than a change at Magdeburg;\\nv^^hich brought to raiad the Magdeburg Hem-\\nispheres, over which I puzzled in my early\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0school-days, little thinking I should myself ever\\nbe within the confines of the venerable city of\\ntheir origin. The air-pump and hemispheres with\\nwhich Otto von Guericke made his first experi-\\nments, are still preserved in the Royal Library\\nat Berlin.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXII.\\nBerlin, the capital of Prussia and the\\nresidence of the German Emperor, is now a city\\nof nearly seventeen hundred thousand inhabi-\\ntants, including its garrison of twenty thousand\\nsoldiers.\\nNature has done little for this locality in the\\nway of the picturesque, it being simply an im-\\nmense, sandy plain only one hundred and ten\\nfeet above the level of the sea. But the region\\nis well-watered and has an intimate connection\\nby rail with all parts of the continent, and by\\nnavigable rivers with northeast Germany and\\nPoland, and is said to be one of the foremost\\nseats of commerce and perhaps the greatest\\nmanufacturing town in continental Europe.\\nIts situation on its serpentine river, suggests\\nthe old conundrum, Why is Berlin, of neces-\\nsity, the most dissipated of cities? Answer:\\nBecause it is, and always will be, continually\\non the Spree. But the Germans craftily evade\\nthis imputation, by pronouncing the name\\nSpray, so that the point of the joke is lost as\\nsoon as you reach Deutschland. The traffic upon\\nthis river and its canals is said to be even busier\\nthan that of the Rhine.\\nOne notes again in Berlin the lack of height\\nin the noble edifices one sees on all sides. The\\nroyal palaces and museums, opera-house, na-\\ntional gallery, university, new houses of parlia-\\nment, arsenal and other beautiful buildings, are\\nall comparatively low and broad; most of them\\nhaving a suggestion of the classic in their con-\\n192", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 193\\nception, though the forms of the Renaissance\\nare also popular, while there is mainly a freedom\\nfrom excessive ornamentation, that is pleasingly\\neffective.\\nBerlin, I am told, is yet in a transition state.\\nNot until after the wars of 1866, 70 and 71,\\nand the consolidation still later of the numerous\\nprovincial governments into one comprehensive\\nimperial aiithority, did the city take its most\\ndeci^ive strides toward becoming what it now is,\\none of the great capitals of the world.\\nThe place is beautifully clean, the water and\\nlighting systems excellent, and on the whole,\\nwhile thi^ metropolis may, perhaps, suffer some-\\nwhat in comparison with some of the older cap-\\nitals of Europe, yet it has a distinct charm of\\nits own that will constantly increase as improve-\\nments and adornments go on.\\nThe Thiergarten, which, as it translates an-\\nimal garden, I at first supposed to be a\\nzoological inclosure, is a very extensive wooded\\npark, really a cultivated forest, covering more\\nthan six hundred acres. It was originally a part\\nof the Royal Preserves. The northern boundary\\nis the River Spree, which lends itself effectively\\nto the attractiveness of the place. Many little\\nsheets of water dotted with tiny islets, lying in\\nthe shadows of the venerable foiest trees and\\nspanned by rustic or more ornate bridges, add\\ninfinite charm to the sylvan space.\\nWorks of art are also scattered about through\\nits area. Exquisite statues in white marble, of\\nQueen Louise, by Encke, and of Frederick Will-\\niam III, by Drake, stand not far from each\\nother in bowers of greenery and surrounded by\\n^vdiCeixxl jardinieres and slender trellises of flow-\\nering plants. Many other fine specimens of the\\nplastic art might be mentioned but the beauties", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "194 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nof these two are especially enhanced by their\\nexquisite setting within the verdant wood. Re-\\nmarkably impressive figures of Goethe in marble\\nand of Lessing in bronze face the Koeniggraet-\\nzer Street, on the eastern limit of the park.\\nCutting through the Tkiergarten from north\\nto soutii, is the broad Avenue of Victory, one of\\nthe most fashionable promenades of Berlin. In\\nthe northern extremity, in the center of beau-\\ntiful King s Pla(!e, an extensive square\\nadorned with flowers, fountains and statuary,\\nrises the Monument of Victory, two hundred\\nfeet in height, standing on a circular terrace\\napproached by eight steps of granite.\\nThis is a wonderful composition commemorat-\\ning the great triumphs of 1870-71 and earlier cam-\\npaigns. The massive square pedestal is adorned\\nwith exceedingly fine reliefs in bronze, each\\ngroup presenting a vivid picture of some thril-\\nling scene in German warfare. The suggestive\\npathos in face and attitude of many of these\\nfigures, is most appealing, and brought tears to\\nthe eyes of the writer, though an alien and a\\nstranger. Space forbids detailed description,\\nbut one peculiar feature may be mentioned, con-\\nsisting of three rows of cannon, sixty in all,\\ncaptured from Danes, Austrians and French,\\nnow placed lengthwise on the great column,\\njust above its flutings of yellowish gray sand-\\nstone. A colossal Borussia^ or Prussia, forty-\\neight feet tall, surmounted by an outspread eagle\\nin gilded bronze, crowns the monument which is\\ntruly an imposing and magnificent creation.\\nIn King s Place also is situated the beau-\\ntifully stately new edifice, the Hall of the Im-\\nperial Diet, which occupies an area of fourteen\\nthousand square yards.\\nTo the north, King s Place leads into", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 195\\nAlsen Place also lovely with beauties of na-\\nture and art.\\nAt the southern extremity of the Avenue of\\nVictory, stands the Wrangel fountain in a wide\\nsquare, tree-bordered, and fitted out with com-\\nfortable seats past which an array of glittering\\nvehicles unceasingly rolls.\\nRunning through the Thiergarten from east\\nto west and directly at right angles to the\\nAvenue of Victory, lies the Charlottenburg road,\\nanother wide, ornamental boulevard, leading out\\nto the suburb of same name and to the royal\\npalace where Emperor Frederick III. spent ten\\nweeks of his last illness. In the pleasant and\\nextensive garden, or park as we should term it,\\nsurrounding this palace, and at some little dis-\\ntance from it, through shaded and quiet ways\\nstands the widely famed mausoleum erected by\\nGoetz, in the Doric style. Here, beneath beau-\\ntiful life-size, full-length, reclining marble por-\\ntrait-figures, repose the mortal remains of King\\nFrederick William III., his lovely consort.\\nQueen Louise, their son, Emperor William I.\\nand his empress, Augusta. The adornments of\\nthis snowy chamber are simple and chaste in the\\nextreme, yet marvelous in effectiveness. A soft,\\npurplish light falls through the stained glass of\\na single casement above the entrance, and\\nfaintly illumines the silent figures with subdued\\nradiance. And thpre they lie in unostentatious\\nmajesty, until time, regardless alike of all\\nbeauty, animate or inanimate, shall work his\\nwill upon their unresisting forms.\\nI dare say that most persons hearing of Ber-\\nlin, picture to themselves the charms of the\\nfamous avenue, \u00e2\u0096\u00a0ITnter den Linden. I must\\nown to sad disappointment in this historic\\nstreet; many others in the city are far finer.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "196 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nTrue, its associations are most interesting and,\\nI presume, in an earlier day, before the era of\\nmodern improvements, it was something to\\nbe particularly noted. To be sure, the avenue\\nis one hundred and ninety-six feet wide, it is\\nflanked by handsome and spacious palaces, ho-\\ntels, trade-emporiums and public buildings\\nhere are the French and Russian Embassies and\\nother important governmental offices but it is\\ncomparatively short, is dusty and untidy, while\\nthe two insignificant rows of scrubby little trees\\nextending partially down its center, are poor\\nrepresentatives of the noble arborage in some\\nother portions of the city.\\nThe space between these rows of trees, in-\\ntended for the pleasure of the pedestrian, in-\\nstead of being neatly turfed, with cement or as-\\nphalt walks through the midst, as, for instance,\\nin Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, is simply\\nloose dirt, which is shuffled up in all directions\\nby the wayfarer, to rise in clouds of dust all\\nabout.\\nThe Brandenburg Gate, which forms the wes-\\ntern terminus, is not at all imposing, being too\\nlow for its breadth and looking as if made from\\ndirty putty. The lower end of the avenue is\\nmore satisfactory. Here is the masterly statue\\nin bronze, by Rauch, of Frederick the Great, on\\nthe right of which is the plain but massive and\\nnow unoccupied palace of William I., and on the\\nleft the academy and the buildings of the Uni-\\nversity, situated in pleasant grounds shaded by\\na grove of fine chesnuts.\\nAgain on the other side, the Royal Opera\\nHouse, Royal Guard-house, the unpretentious\\npalace of Emperor Frederick III., where his\\nwidow, Queen Victoria s daughter, resides, and\\nthe arsenal, follow in quick succession, forming", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 197\\na pleasing though by no means imposing pros-\\npect. Of all these, the arsenal is the most\\nornate and is one of the finest buildings in Ber-\\nlin. A striking feature of this, is the adorn-\\nment, if it may be properly termed such, upon\\nthe keystones of the window arches of the inner\\nquadrangle, with sculptured heads of expiring\\nwarriors in every variety of agonized expression,\\ndepicted in the most realistic manner.\\nLeading off from Unter den Linden toward\\nthe south, is a beautiful arched passage, the\\nKaiser-Gallerie, glass roofed and richly deco-\\nrated in terracotta, in the style of the Renais-\\nsance. This is one of the busiest and handsom-\\nest arcades in Europe, I am told, though not the\\nlargest. The display of goods is similar to that\\nalong the colonnades of the Rue de Rivoli, in\\nParis, and the locality has the further advantage\\nof being entirely protected from the weather.\\nBerlin has many handsome and massive stone\\nbridges which are really works of art in more\\nways than one, being ornamented with fine\\nstatues and groups in bronze and marble, both\\nof mythologic and historic subjects, all wrought\\nand finished in a highly artistic style.\\nOver one of these, the Schloss Br^iecke, we\\ncross to the eastern prolongation of the Lin-\\nden, and find on the left a lovely, spacious\\nsquare of nearly fifty thousand square yards.\\nLarge shade trees here form a beautiful grove\\nbranching over emerald turf and brilliant flow-\\ners. In the center is a fine statue of Frederick\\nWilliam III. This place is called the Lustyarten^\\nand was originally the pleasure garden of the\\nRoyal Palace, which fronts it on the south\\nacross the avenue. The square is inclosed on\\nthe east and north by the former cathedral and\\nthe Old Museum in front of the steps of the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "198 ONE WOMAN WANDEEING\\nlatter, is a curiosity in the shape of a pon-\\nderous granite basin said to be twenty-two feet\\nin diameter and seventy-five tons in weight,\\nhaving been hewn from a solid block of ten\\ntimes the weight. As I looked at it, half a\\ndozen small Deutscher laddies with little bare\\nfeet and well-ventilated garments, were trying\\nto scramble inside of the huge hollow.\\nThe Royal Palace, official residence of the\\nreigning sovereign, is located upon an island in\\nthe midst of the city, formed by a division of\\nthe Spree into two arms at this point which is\\nreached from the west, as noted before, by the\\nSchloss-Bruecke, while, going eastward, one\\npasses over Emperor William s Bridge to the\\nBoerse, or exchange this, by the way, was the\\nfirst modern building of Berlin executed in stone\\ninstead of brick. The palace is huge and im-\\npressive in a solid, severe style, with nothing\\nparticularly remarkable either in point of age or\\narchitecture. The oldest part was erected by\\nElector Frederick II., in 1443-51. His various\\nsuccessors have added or altered and pulled\\ndown, until the time of Frederick, the first king\\nof Prussia, who desired to replace the irregular\\npile by a uniform structure of imposing propor-\\ntions. This project, however has never been\\ncompletely carried out, and from 1716 to about\\n1845, comparatively trifling changes were\\nmade.\\nFrom that time to the present, exterior and in-\\nterior alike have been undergoing a gradual\\nprocess of renovation. Connected with this\\npalace is a ghostly apparition known as the\\nWei.sse Fran, or White Lady, whose appear-\\nance in the castle occasionally, exactly at the\\nmidnight hour, is reckoned to be always a harb-\\ninger of death to some member of the House of\\nHohenzollern.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 193\\nFronting the principal facade of the Royal\\nPalace, is the colossal bronze figure of William\\nI., recently unveiled, the accessories of which\\nare yet unfinished. When complete, with its\\nsemi- circle of statuesque adjuncts abutting on\\nthe river below, it will suggest the decoration\\nand general effect, though on a smaller scale, of\\nthe Place de la Concoru e in Paris.\\nIn the line of antique structures, Berlin is\\nrather deficient, those it does possess not being\\nparticularly remarkable or ancient.\\nIn ihe Kloster Street is a gymnasium founded\\nin 1514, containing some chambers of an old\\nmonastery dating from fouiteen hundred and\\nseventy -four, that are still in a fair state of\\npreservation.\\nSt. Nicholas Church is, I believe, the oldest\\nsacred edifice in Berlin, although as it now\\nstands it has many later additions to the original\\nbuilding. The square blocks of granite forming\\nthe bases of the two towers, date from the be-\\nginning of the thirteenth, the choir from the\\nfourteenth, and the nave from the fifteenth\\ncentury. Marien Church, built at the end ()f\\nthe thirteenth, and restored in the fourteenth\\ncentury, is noteworthy as being the second\\nparish-church of Old Berlin. Its peculiar Gothic\\nspire, however, was added in 1796. In front of\\nthe principal entrance is the expiatory cross for\\nthe murder of the Provost of Bernau in the begin-\\nning of the fourteenth century.\\nThere are a large number of fine sacred struc-\\ntures dating all along from the year 1840 to the\\npresent day one, the most modern and splen-\\ndid of all, is the Memorial Church to Emperor\\nWilliam I. It was in one of these modern,\\nchurchts that I listened to what my program\\nstyled(in German Ittters) a GeistUche Konzert^", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "200 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwhich I blunderingly translated, as a ghostly-\\nconcert, forgetting for the moment that geist-\\nliohe is spiritual and spiritual is sacred;\\nbut it was truly enjoyable, whatever it might be\\ncalled.\\nThe old cathedral has been pulled down and\\non its site a splendid new one is building.\\nThey have a queer fashion here of entirely in-\\nclosing any building in process of erection, with\\ngreat walls as high as the main parts of the con-\\ntemplated structure, inside of which only the\\nworkmen are admitted, and which completely\\nhide all operations from the outside public. At\\nthe corner of King street and the Long Bridge,\\nabutting on the river and just west of the statue\\nof the Great Elector, is such an enclosure, and\\nI passed it many a time with curious eyes;\\nthrough chance crevices, or some occasionally\\nswinging door, now and then I could get a\\nglimpse of outlines of rare beauty and of decora-\\ntions wrought out in fine stone and marble.\\nOften did 1 inquire what this edifice might be,\\nbut strange to say, no one could tell me. Finally\\none day I resolved not to be baffled and, as I\\ncame to the spot in my daily walk, I turned into\\nthe large semi-circular area about the old Elec-\\ntor and, pacing back and forth for about half an\\nhour, I accosted every pedesti ian who came along.\\nAmong these was one couple, a lady and gentle-\\nman who evidently were tourists like myself\\nthey were sauntering along, Bnedaker in hand,\\nand gazing here and there after the fashion of\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2strangers in a strange land. They could give\\nme no information but we got into a pleasant\\nchat during which I was much puzzled to place\\nthe nationality of my interlocutors. I had never\\nheard English spoken in quite their peculiar\\n:Style. They certainly were not German nor", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 201\\nFrench nor Scandinavian, what were they?\\nCould it be possible that they were English? I\\nhad met many English persons, but never\\nany who spoke thus still, I had not then been\\nto England,and possibly, no, it was impossible\\nno cultivated English tongue could ever twist\\nits own mother-speech into such accents. It\\nwas only by the closest attention that I was\\nable to understand. They were very friendly and\\nhad evidently seen much of the world. Finally,\\nas I was about to turn away, the gentleman said\\nYou are not English, I think?\\nNo, I replied, American.\\nAh h! rejoined the gentleman, with a\\npleasant smile, Yes, thy speech bewray eth\\nthee.\\nWell! I mentally exclaimed, Thy speech\\nbewrayeth thee, too unfortunately not quite\\nenough, however, to satisfy me I wish I could\\nknow your country.\\nBut before I had opportunity to voice my de-\\nsire, he went on\\nYes, I noticed you spoke differently from us;\\nwe are from Edinburg; but you speak well, very\\nwell indeed; we could understand you perfectly.\\nVery pleased we met you hope we shall see you\\nagain.\\nAnd with mutual bow^s and compliments, we\\nseparated, each marveling at the speech of the\\nother.\\nBut I had not found out about the new build-\\ning. Of the twenty or more parsers by of whom\\nI inquired, three, though native Germans, were\\nstrangers to the city; two besides the Scotch\\ntourist and his wif^^,were foreigners; six seemed\\nto be just ordinary citizens, male and female;\\none was a porter; another a soldier; one a\\nbaker s boy; and the rest ware children, boys", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "202 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nand girls of varying ages. Every one had essen-\\ntially the same answer:\\n^Achl Dass kann ich nicht scigen, meine\\nDame,^ which, being interpreted, declared that\\nnobody knew. Imagine such a state of things in\\nan American community. My national, investi-\\ngating spirit was subdued; 1 gave it up. When\\nyou go there, O, solitary sister, do you straight-\\nway betake yourself to that quarter and find out\\nfor me the desire of my soul. The shrouding\\ntimbers may then have been torn away and the\\nstructure within be known unto men and women,\\nin free and open exhibition.\\nNot very far from the Royal Opera House\\nand the Linden lies Schiller Place, an exten-\\nsive area wherein are found several noble build-\\nings; of these, the French Church, the New\\nChurch and the Schiller Theater, are considered\\nthe finest architectural group in Berlin. In\\nfront of the Theater s principal entrance, stands\\na fine figure of Schiller and the whole area is\\nlovely with trees and flow ers. This group is\\nparticularly beautiful by moonlight; though, in\\nmaking this statement, I resemble Walter Scott,\\nif it be true, as declared, that he had never seen\\nfair Melrose at night, when he wrote that to\\nview it aright one must,\\nGo visit it by pale moonlight,\\nyet he spake truly, for all that, and so do I.\\nWhile I find this city very pleasing, I have\\none fault to find with the Berliners and with\\nGermans in general, so far as I have observed\\nover here, and that is that they do not, like the\\nFrench, throw open their pleasant little park*\\nand gardens, as a rule, to the public, nor do they\\nprovide so many resting-places for the wayfar-\\ning man, woman or child. True, the public is", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 203\\npermitted to walk through and sometimes a seat\\nwill be observed, but usually a high, iron rail-\\ning divides off the pleasant and shady, leafy\\nretreats, and often there is no entrance allowed\\ninto the interiors at all, even for a stroll, as in\\nLeipziyer Flatz\\\\ of course, there are excep-\\ntions; noticeably here, the Thiergarten^ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\%\\\\YO.\\nand Alexander Places and a few others. In\\nFrench gardens there are very few railings, and\\nthose are usually about some bed of delicate\\nplants, or the like, while seats are everywhere.\\nVery odd names may be noted upon the vari-\\nous signs and placards of a German city, partic-\\nularly so if lifted over bodily into their\\nequivalent English. Fancy accosting anyone\\nby the name of Mr. Nodding-goose, Mr. Big-\\nhead, Mr. Sweet-and-good, Mr. Gas-pipe, or a\\npolished gentleman as Mr. Blood-sausage.\\nSome of the streets also have odd names when\\ntranslated, as Bone-hewer, Big-berry, Young-\\nfellow or Invalid Street,Forsaken Way, Wedding\\nPlace, and so forth there is in Germany, too,\\na queer fashion of naming a thoroughfare by a\\nphrase, as To the Station Street, Behind the\\nCatholic Church Street, On the Is.land Street.\\nand the like. One day I was startled to notice\\nHoly Ghost Street, but soon saw this was only\\nmeant as short for Holy Ghost Church Street.\\nI am told that here in Prussia, the national\\nGovernment regulates municipal affairs in many\\ndepartments. While the city may nominate, it\\ncannot confirm its choice for mayor, the govern-\\nment does that it also names all streets and pub-\\nlic squares and no change can be made in any\\nnomenclature without governmental assent\\nBerlin is not chary in her recognition of pub-\\nlic men. In every square or locality of any im-\\nportance, may be seen statues of more or less", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "204 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\npretentions, to the memory of some general,\\nphilosopher, scientist, poet or otherwise fa-\\nmous personage.\\nThe art-collections of Berlin are compara-\\ntively inferior in importance, consisting largely\\nof casts and copies and comprising few master-\\npieces or originals of worth, though I believe the\\nPergamenian sculptures acquired in 1879, and\\none or two other collections purchased since, are\\nreally valuable.\\nThough I cannot expect even to allude to the\\nmajor part of Berlin s characteristics, I will\\nmention in closing, the circular Belle- Alliance\\nPlace into which three great avenues converge\\nand which is laid out as a garden, in the center\\nof which rises the fine Column of Peace,\\nplaced here in 1840 to commemorate the peace\\nof 1815. Four marble groups representing the\\nfour principal powers that participated in the\\ndecisive struggle, surround the column, which\\nis crowned with a Victory, by Rauch. On\\nthe south side of the Place, a flight of steps as-\\ncends from the street and is adorned by allego-\\nrical figures in white marble. Opposite the top\\nof the stairway and leading to the river, is\\nHalle Gate, a monumental portal decorated with\\nfigures of the four seasons.\\nBerlin is remarkably well supplied with facil-\\nities for intramural transportation, though I\\nsaw but one electric line, and that running away\\nout from the heart of the city, as seems to be\\nthe custom in large tow^ns abroad. The con-\\nductors and drivers of the trams and buses,\\nwear a very pretty uniform of light fawn-color,\\nset off with leaf-green collars and ornaments\\nthis is varied on hot days by continuations of\\nwhite duck, which somehow they manage to\\nkeep in very fresh condition. The uniform of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 205\\nthe foresters, or, as we would call them, the\\npark-police, is also very tasteful, consisting of\\nrather wide trousers, a double-breasted, some-\\nwhat full-skirted coat and a wide-rimmed, quite\\nhigh-crowned hat, all of a soft gray-green re-\\nlieved with cords and frogs of a slightly deeper\\ntinge, and a feather of the same in the hat. As\\nfor policeman in general, and soldiers, their\\ncostumes are glittering and varied beyond de-\\nscription and show to good advantage on the\\nalmost universally fine physique of the North\\nGerman citizen.\\nThese large cities abroad are usually well\\nsupplied with postal facilities of various sorts,\\nbut Berlin, I am informed, has, in addition to\\nmore ordinary conveniences, a system of Pneu-\\nmatic Tubes for the rapid transmission of tele-\\ngrams, letters and postal cards from one part to\\nanother of the city, including Charlottenburg.\\nThe places for deposit and delivery, are called\\nPneumatic Post-Offlces, and letters or packets\\nmust not exceed a certain size and weight.\\nPostage on letters is about seven, and on cards\\nabout five cents.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIIT.\\nA hasty visit to Potsdam accompanied by a\\nlone sister whom I encountered atmj pe ision,\\n(which, by the way, i? kept by a von, the low-\\nest rank of German nobility,) could not, of\\ncourse, serve to grain a very thorough knowledge\\nof this great suburb of Berlin, but so far as it\\nwent, it was very interesting.\\nThe weather was charming; the distance\\nabout half an hour s ride; and, as I had never\\nyet been in a third class carriage, we concluded\\nto take this grade and found it to be very like a\\nlarge street-car in style and finish. The com-\\npartment-walls reached only about three-fourths\\nof the distance between floor and ceiling, and\\neach compartment opened into the next without\\nany intervening doors, though each had doors\\non each side for entrance and exit, as usual.\\nThe seats and floors were bare, the former of\\nvarnished slats, as in a tram, and all was clean\\nand comfortable, the rate being very cheap,\\nabout twenty-five cents for the round trip.\\nPotsdam, though a suburb, has fifty-five\\nthousand inhabitants and a garrison of seven\\nthousand soldiers. It is situated on a large\\nisland in the Havel, which is-land abounds in\\nlakes and wooded hills.\\nThe town first came into prominence in the\\ntime of the Great Elector, who did much for\\nthe place, founding here his park and garden\\nits later importance arose a hundred years after,\\nunder Frederick the Great, whose favorite resi-\\ndence was at Potsdam.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 207\\nOne enters the main town over the Long\\nBridge, a remarltably handsome, finely decorated\\nstructure, that ieads directly to the Royal Pal-\\nace, so called though, as there re several other\\nRoj^al Palaces here, within walking distance of\\neach other, it strikes me that the definite article\\nis rather misapplied.\\nAfter leaving the bridge, we pass an old lin-\\nden, much bepropped and protected, under\\nwhich, it is said, petitioners used to station\\nthemselves to attract the notice of Frederick the\\nG-reat.\\nThe spacious pleasure-garden to the south of\\nthe palace, is inclosed in two rows of columns\\nsurmounted by a series of statues, groups and\\nthe like. This palace was erected in 1670. but\\nre-constructed in 1750 by Frederick the Great,\\nwhose rooms here are preserved in good condi-\\ntion. There is much tj be seen that is very in-\\nteresting, but I must be brief and will allude to\\nbut one or two features.\\nIn the apartments of Frederick William I\\nare a few pictures of his majesty s own painting\\nunder peculiar circumstances, that is, while suf-\\nfering from an attack of the gout. The library\\nof the palace is separated from the bedroom of\\nFrederick the Great, only by a massive silver\\nbalustrade. Adjoining the library is a cabinet\\nwith double doors, from which a dining-table\\ncould be let down by means of a trap-door, and\\nwhere the king might dine with his friends, at\\nwill, without danger of being spied upon by his\\nattendants.\\nThe town contains many fine public buildings,\\nboth sacred and secular, and the streets seem\\nmostly wide and pleasant Here also is a\\nBrandenburg Gate, more effective than the one\\nin Berlin.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "208 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nWe have time to visit but one church and we\\nselect the Friedenkirche, an edifice in the early\\nChristian Basilica style, completed in 1850, con-\\ntaining the burial vaults of Frederick William\\nIV. and his queen, Elizabeth, also of the\\nEmperor Fredtrick III.\\nThe church stands apart from the busy high-\\nway and is surrounded with much verdure and\\nbowery greenery. We enter at a little side door\\nand, treading over the velvety turf of a shaded\\ninclosure, we step around a side wall and come\\ninto a quadrangle shut in by arcades, where we\\nare confronted by the bell-tower, one hundred\\nand thirty feet high. Still farther on beyond\\nthe cloisters, we enter an atrium or paradise\\ncontaining Rauch s Group of Moses and a copy\\nof Thorwaldsen s Eisen Christ. Then turning,,\\nwe pass into the interior of the basilica, the\\nroof of which is supported by sixteen Ionic col-\\numns in black marble. Some fine sculptures are\\nwithin, and the recumbent figure of Emperor\\nFrederick III., is especially good.\\nThe marble forms lie on immovable and they\\nall seem to be indeed very far from any vital\\ninterest we do not quite understand why Fred-\\nerick III. is placed here by the side of his uncle,\\nand so remote from his father and mother.\\nFrederick the Great and Frederick William I.,\\nhis father, are buried in the Garrison Church.\\nWe do not tarry long but step out from the\\ncool silence again into the garish light of\\nday, and return to the green bowers and high-\\nway road, passing the Great Fountain which\\nlater on is seen in full play, mounting to a\\nheight of one hundred and thirty feet.\\nWe reach a broad flight of steps sixty feet\\nhigh, intersected by six terraces, in the top one\\nof which are buried the grayhounds of Frederick", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 209\\nthe Great. Crossing the last terrace, we come\\nto the entrance of the Palace of Sans Souci, the\\nfavorite and almost constant residence of this\\nmonarch.\\nHis rooms are preserved unaltered and contain\\nmany interesting relics of the erratic yet illus-\\ntrious sovereign and of his famous contempor-\\naries. In a room once occupied for some weeks\\nby Voltaire, are some very odd and rather ugly\\nwood-carvings and embroideries. Room after\\nroom are we conducted through, which have all\\nbeen used for the varied needs of life by the\\ngreat King, but now empty, swept and gar-\\nnished. We are shown his spinet, flute,\\nmusic, books, bed, the clock that he always\\nwound and that stopped as clocks of illustrious\\nbeings seem to have a way of doing, at the\\nmoment of its owner s death, the chair in which\\nhe died and the like. How is it, I wonder, that\\nso many of the world s celebrities of ancient\\ndate, died in chairs, instead of comfortably in\\ntheir beds?\\nOne room which impressed me most, was a\\nlong gallery, one side of which was glass, look-\\ning out upon the park, and where the king used\\nto pace up and down in his later years, accom-\\npanied by his greyhounds. I could seem to see\\nthe irascible old man, in the grotesque dress of\\nthe period, traveling to and fro, chafing impo-\\ntently at the infirmities that set to his activities\\na limit which even he could not overstep.\\nIt makes history seem very real to visit these\\nplaces, yet it is but a melancholy satisfaction,\\nafter all, giving one the feeling that every one\\nis dead and gone, and causing one to reflect in\\nthe words of the Psalmist: How shall thy ser-\\nvant stand before Thee, 0, Lord? and What\\nis man that Thou art mindful of him?", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "210 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe extensive domain about is very pleasant,\\ndiversified by hill and dale, by pool and foun-\\ntain. Some laborers were cutting grass near by\\nin the broad meadows, and the air was fragrant\\nwith perfume.\\nSeveral other royal residences are within con-\\nvenient distance, by way of lovely avenues\\nthrough the imperial acres. We pass the famovis\\nmill which the old owner refused to sell to Fred-\\nerick the Great, to that testy monarch s ineff-\\nable disgust, but the stubborn man s heirs were\\nmore tractable and it is now royal property. We\\nnext visit the Orangery, a comparatively modern\\nstructure in Florentine style, completed in 1856.\\nThe Charlotte.nhof, transformed, it is said, from\\na plain country-house to an Italian villa, con-\\ntains many memorials of Alexander von Hum-\\nboldt.\\nAll these palaces are crowded with luxuries\\nand curious articles of bigotry and virtue,\\ntoo numerous to name, though I will mention a\\nchair of steel and silver, made by Peter the\\nGreat. To the west of the Park of /Sa/is Soiici,\\nrises the summer residence of the present em-\\nperor, the palace of Friedrichskron, founded by\\nFrederick the Great in 1763, at the tnd of the\\nSeven Years War, and completed by him in 1769,\\nat a cost of about two and a quarter million\\ndollars. Among its beautiful and elegant apart-\\nments is conspicuous the modern Shell Room,\\na vast chamber inlaid with shells, minerals and\\nprecious stones, in a most wonderful and taste-\\nful fashion. These objects, we are told, are me-\\nmentoes of the visit of William II. (who, by the\\nway, is styled the wandering emperor, to\\nnorthern Europe. The chamber was seven years\\nin construction.\\nWe were weary now, physically and mentally,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 211\\nand resolved to do no more sight-seeing. As we\\nstrolled along the fine, winding highway, be-\\nneath large forest trees, we espied a placard at\\nthe beginning of a woodland path, which placard\\nbore the legend To the Dragon s Cafe. This was\\ntempting, so we turned aside and scrambled up\\nthe little hill until we came to a fanciful pavil-\\nion, above the cornices of which fiery dragons\\nwere snorting defiance to the world at large.\\nIn spite of their ferocious appearance, we ven-\\ntured near and, seating ourselves at a little\\ntable under a leafy tree, were promptly served\\nwith coffee in a dragon pot, and bread and but-\\nter upon dragon plates. This with tips to the\\nwaiter, cost us about twelve and one half cents\\neach, which to the American mind was some-\\nwhat surprising. The coffee not quenching my\\nthirst, I asked for ice-water; not to be had then\\nfor an ordinary, plain, everyday drink of water;\\nnot to be had either; nothing but selzer, which\\ns mehow did not seem to fill a long felt want.\\nBut refreshed and restored, we resumed our\\nwalk and, as we stroHed along the avenue, which\\nhad now re-entered the park, there was a sudden\\nreverberation of wheels, a clatter of hoofs, a\\ngleam of scarlet and gold, and lo an imperial\\ncarriage dashed by. This being royal domairi,\\nno other would be allowed to traverse it, so we\\nhad the spectacle for what it was worth. We\\nthen trudged on reflecting, perhaps, that the\\nrich can ride in chaises, but we could catch a\\ntram, which we did, and in due time, arrived\\nsafely in Berlin.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIV.\\nThe next week I went on to Dresden, a monoto-\\nnous trip of about three hours by express, which\\nwould have been very dull but for the delightful\\nweather and the pleasant look of the fields and\\ngroves in the summer sunshine. The effect was\\nmarred for me, however, as it had been so often\\nduring my travels on the continent, by the\\nsight of poor, exhausted looking women toiling\\nwith such a hopeless appearance at all sorts of\\nheavy labors incident to the tilling of the soil;\\nand at the same time having charge of infants of\\nthe tenderest age, which are sometimes strapped\\nto the mother s shoulders, sometimes swaddled\\nup in a bundle upon the grass, and sometimes,\\nwhen the little feet have become more ambitious,\\nare tied to trees or posts in the vicinity, with\\nlong bands that permit some degree of locomo-\\ntion. And at other times I saw in the beauti-\\nful grounds of enchanting estates, feeble, old\\nwomen who were past their time of usefulness in\\nthe fields, bowed down upon hands and knees\\nand crawling about the turf to pick up, one by\\none, the leaves and twigs that might be scattered\\nthere. I have been told that, for this service,\\nthey each receive six or seven cents a day; this\\nmay be an error, I did not verify it.\\nWomen drag wagons and bear burdens of all\\ndescriptions, young children clinging to their\\ngowns; older ones assist. I was fain to ask\\nWhere aie themen? Many, of course, have\\ngone to be soldiers, but the question was an-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN PANDERING 213\\nswered in another way, by a spectacle I saw one\\nday upon the street.\\nTo a heavy cart laden with lumber of all kinds,\\nold stoves, boxes, barrels and so forth, a middle\\naged woman was harnessed with a dog. Both\\nwere straining every muscle to move the vehicle,\\nwhile behind, coolly lounging along, occasionally\\nspurring up the beasts with harsh commands,\\npipe in mouth and hands in pockets, was the\\nlord and master of the outfit. I suppose they\\nwere thankful he did not get into the cart and\\nride.\\nWhat enchantment of nature or beauty of art\\ncan compensate for such a state of things? In\\nFrance, while women bear, as is just, their full\\nshare of the responsibilities of life, I saw no ouch\\ndegradation, and though I do not know the status\\nof woman in French law, 1 do know that dog-\\nlabor is forbidden.\\nFair Germany, so beautiful and so endowed,\\nwhy permittest thou these things so to be?\\nStill the wheels turn tirelessly onward and\\nsoon we enter the lovely suburbs of Dresden\\nand note the grand sweep of the River Elbe as,\\nspanned by three fine stone bridges, it curves\\nin front of the fair city.\\nHere, as in Berlin and some other German\\ncities, the traveler is handed a metal ticket as\\nhe passes through the station-gate, and with\\nthis ticket he secures a cab of corresponding\\nnumber. These vehicles are of two kinds, call-\\ned first and second class. The latter is cheaper\\nand roomier the drivers wear yellow hat-bands\\nand collars, instead of white as in the first class;\\nthe latter are supposed to be better fitted up,\\nas a rule, than the second class, but in reality\\nthere is no very striking difference in the ap-\\npointments of the two classes.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "214 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nDresden, as we all know, is noted for its\\nmagnificent picture gallery, M hich now ranks\\nwith the Louvre, the Pitti and the Uffizzi, and\\nthere are probably few travelers who do not\\nmake it the first objective point of their sight-\\nseeing. Abler pens than mine have set forth\\nits treasures, and I will make no attempt to\\nfollow in their lead. But what a privilege it\\nis to have these wondrous creations close at\\nhand, where one may retire at will to marvel\\nand to admire, or to be led in spirit, either\\nbackward to the eventful scenes of bygone eras,\\nto the days of romance and chivalry, or up and\\naway through the realms of imagination, to\\nthose elevated regions of thought and hope, to\\nwhich we all strive to attain, in our best and\\nnoblest moments.\\nDresden s collection is fitly housed, the edi-\\nfice containing it being considered one of the\\nfinest examples of modern architecture. The\\npicture-gallery occupies the first and second\\nfloors of the Museum, and the Museum forms\\nthe north west wing of the Zioinger, which is a\\nsplendid structure that one really must see to\\nobtain any adequate idea of its magnificence. It\\nowes its existence to the splendor loving Augus-\\ntus the Strong, and, to quote a popular writer,\\nas Augustus the Strong bore some resemblance\\nto Louis XIV., so the erection of the Z winger re-\\ncalls the palatial edifices built about that period\\nas monuments befitting the glorious reign of the\\nGrand Monarque of France. It consists of\\nseven pavilions connected by a gallery of one\\nstory, inclosing a court one hundred and\\ntwenty-eight yards long, and one hundred and\\nseventeen wide, but only a small portion of the\\noriginal design has been completed.\\nAccording to Baedeker, the present site of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 215\\nthe Museum was to have been occupied by a\\nhuge portal which was to lead to an elevated\\nplateau flanked by two long palaces these edi-\\nfices were to have been connected by galleries,\\nwhence flights of steps would have descended to\\nthe Elbe. But the magnificent plan, conceived\\nin 1711, and carried out until 1722, was never\\nfully executed and the Museum, now forming\\na part of the group, was built there in 1847-54.\\nNor do the Zwivger and the Museum stand\\nalone in their beauty. A grand old pile, the\\nRoman Catholic Court-Church, rises diagonally\\nacross from the Zivinger, in a remarkably spa-\\ncious square, and is truly an imposing and ma-\\njestic structure; the parapets and entrances are\\nadorned with seventy colossal statues of saints\\nthe tower is two hundred and eighty feet high.\\nOpposite on the northeast stands the Court-\\nTheater, a magnificent Renaissance building,\\ncovering an area of fifty-five hundred and fifty\\nsquare yards. It is so richly ornamented with\\npaintings^ with medallions, with figures in\\nstone and bronze, that, like the Zwinger, it must\\nbe seen to be realized.\\nA handsome guard-house with vestibule up-\\nborne by six Ionic columns, is also in this square.\\nAll these edifices being detached, their full\\nbeauty and dignity are manifest to the beholder;\\nacross on the southern side, is the Royal Palace,\\nthe proportions of which are not so evident as\\nit does not stand out by itself. Not far from this\\nis a fine elevated terrace, that, lined with beauti-\\nful villas and handsome public buildings, and in-\\nterspersed with great trees and lovely plats of:\\nplants and flowers, stretches away ofi^ toward\\nthe east along the margin of the Elbe. This\\nwas originally laid out as a private pleasure-\\ngarden, by Count Bruehl, and is approached", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "216 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nfrom the Schloss-Platz, or Castle square, by a\\nbroad flight of steps adorned with gilded groups\\nin sandstone, of Morning, Noon, Evening and\\nNight.\\nThe new Bohemian Station in Dresden, un-\\nfinished at the present writing, though complet-\\ned enough for traffic, is I think, the finest that\\nI have ever seen.\\nDresden has no lack of American visitors\\nand students, and is, perhaps, as well known by\\npeople of other lands, as any foreign city in the\\nworld. The wife and daughters of one of our\\nex-consuls were at my pension. There was also\\na Dane lady, one French, one English, and one\\nRussian; the hostess was German and all the\\nothers were United States Americans. Oddly e-\\nnough, we were a family of women, our hostess\\nbeing the kindest and most genial of old\\nmaids, with no masculine belongings, and her\\npatrons also, at this particular epoch, all unat-\\ntended by gentlemen.\\nMy windows overlooked a pleasant little\\npark, where I would hear children frolicking at\\nall hours of the day, and singing airs as familiar\\nto me as to them, such as any group of Ameri-\\ncan children might sing, Lightly Row, The\\nHouse is Haunted, Baby Bye, and sometimes\\nwhat we call My Country. Odd about this\\nlast air, Lhat so many nations claim it as national\\nmusic. Of course, these little folks sing in\\nGerman, but, as I cannot distinguish any words\\nat this distance, the effect is quite homey.\\nOne thing I particularly approve about\\nthese German towns, is the clear and distinct\\nlabeling and numbering of streets and roads.\\nThere is very little possibility of a stranger\\nlosing his way if he can read the placards that\\nare placed at frequent intervals all along the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 217\\nroutes at every turn and corner, high enough to\\nbe out of the reach of marauding hands,\\nthough such would be sternly dealt with here,\\nand placed solidly against some background\\nwhere wind or storm cannot disturb them. In\\naddition to the name of the street, on every cor-\\nner building are painted the numbers contained\\nin that side of the block, with an arrow show-\\ning which way they run; and though Germans\\ndo no not invariably, as we do, place odd and\\neven numbers on opposite sides of the streets,\\nyet under this system no one can fail to locate\\nany desired spot, with very little effort.\\nDresden has a iine system of both horse and\\nelectric trams, but I saw none of the buses that\\nbave been so numerous in many other places.\\nDesiring to visit the Albertinum, I entered a\\ntram one day and when paying my fare, I ex-\\nplained to the conductor that I was a stranger\\nand requested him to tell me when I had\\nreached my destination. A nice-looking old\\ngentleman sitting next me, asked me if I were\\na foreigner on my answering that I was from\\nthe United States, he was interested at once.\\nOh! the United States, he said I have\\nalways wanted to see that great and wonderful\\ncountry; do you know Denver?\\nI replied that I had visited there whereupon\\nhe went on to tell about a son he had in some\\ncollege there, who had evidently filled his old\\nfather s mind with admiration for the home of\\nhis son.\\nYou must go to visit him; I suggested.\\nNo, I am too old, he rejoined, I am sev-\\nenty years old, he did not seem sixty, and\\nI have been one of the King s Huntsmen for\\nfifty years; much would I delight to get a shot\\nM some of the grand and wonderful game in\\nthat far, far west.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "218 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nHis son, he said, was thirty-five years of age-\\nand had just married a lady of twenty, what did.\\nI think of that?\\nI replied that they had probably suited them-\\nselves, and he assented with a smiling t/a, ja,\\nja; but suddenly pointing outside, exclaimed,\\nThe King, the King!\\nI turned hastily and beheld a plain, single-\\ncarriage wherein was seated a kindly looking\\nold gentleman who bowed pleasantly right and\\nleft, but who was without the least insignia or\\nappurtenance of exalted rank and with no at-\\ntendant except his driver.\\nMy old gentleman remarked that the king was-\\nalways like that, simple and unostentatious in\\nthe extreme. About this time the old hunts-\\nman took his departure, after giving me most\\nminute instructions for finding my way. I was.\\nsorry to lose him, he was so friendly.\\n1 visited the palace of this same King Albert\\nof Saxony, the next day and saw his portrait in\\nregal attire, looking down in dignity from thft\\nstately hall, but seeming even so, the same\\nkindly-natured being.\\nThe palace is not specially noteworthy with,\\nthe exception of its treasure-room called the\\nGreen Vaults, which are splendid beyond de-\\nscription. Here is a most remarkable display of\\ncuriosities, jewels, trinkets, plate, gold and sil-\\nver smith s work of the sixteenth and seven-\\nteenth centuries, enamels, ivory carvings and\\nci*ystal cuttings, said to be one of the most val-\\nuable collections in existence.\\n1 noticed in this palace, as I had done previ-\\nously in Potsdam, Versailles, Berlin, in fact, in\\nmost of the ancient palaces, great mirrors com-\\nposed of many panes, or pieces, not larger than\\na medium-sized window-pane; at first, I could", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 219\\nnot imagine why they had been so divided, but\\nlearned later it was because they were made be-\\nfore the invention ot the process for making\\nlarge sheets of glass. The effects in reflec-\\ntion from these numerous divisions, are very\\nodd.\\nFourteen miles from Dresden, lies Meissen, an\\nancient Saxon town most picturesquely situated\\nat the point where the rivers Triebisch and\\nMeisse flow into the Elbe, In lofty prominence,\\none hundred and sixty feet above the town, tow-\\ners the rocky Schlossberg,to attain the summit of\\nwhich, one follows a winding, steep and narrow\\nway, paved with square, flat stones,\\nA charming view is had from the top, before\\none crosses the massive bridge leading from one\\nbattlement to another, and enters the high walls\\nthat form part of the defences of the citadel.\\nHere upon a spacious plateau stands a gray\\nold cathedral, and the vaulted castle, Albrechts-\\nburg.\\nBut the chief interest at Meissen is the Royal\\nPorcelain Factory, where is manufactured what\\nis popularly known as Dresden China. The\\nart of making this, it seems, was actually dis-\\ncovered in a chamber of the Albrechtsburg,\\nwhere the chemist Boettger had his laboratory\\nand where the porcelain was made for a year,\\nuntil 1710, when the present works just below\\nthe Schlossberg, in the Triebischthal, were es-\\ntablished, since when the process has been\\ncarried on there. There is an interesting paint-\\ning in the old laboratory in the Schlossberg,\\nrepresenting Boettger at work, and explaining\\nhis process of making the china, to Augustus\\nthe Strong, The porcelain as first made was\\nof a soft, crushed-strawberry color, but\\nit is now wrought out in most delicate blue and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "220 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwhite, ornamented, of course, in various styles.\\nWe were taken all over the Factory and found it\\nmarvelously interesting, our guide explaining\\neverything in the most painstaking manner. At\\nSevres, visitors are not allowed in the work-\\nrooms.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXV.\\nRising boldly from adjacent steeps and over-\\nlooking the winding waters of the Elbe, looms\\nthe Bastei, the finest point in Saxon Switzer-\\nland, ten hundred and thirty feet above sea-\\nlevel.\\nTaking train at Dresden, one passes over a\\nroute growing more and more picturesque, as it\\nfollows the course of the sinuous river.\\nIn the genial, but not oppressive sunshine\\nthat is so characteristic of the summer season\\nhere, our party set forth to view the beauties of\\nthis romantic region.\\nArriving opposite the little village of Wehlen,\\nwe quitted the train and walked past the few\\nsmall houses clustered about the station, and\\ndown a winding path to the river, where we\\nfound a not over large, but rather unwieldly\\nrow-boat, the owner of which consented to take\\nus acrors.\\nTwo or three persons from other points had\\nalready assembled here and just before me in\\nstepping into the boat, was a stubby, impassive-\\nlooking fellow of middle age, in rustic garb,\\nwhile already sitting in the boat was another\\nman, somewhat older, short, fat and roly-\\npoly, with a jolly, red face and an expression\\nchildlike and bland.\\nAs these two spied each other, they rushed\\necstatically together at the risk of upsetting the\\nboat, clasped each other in the most fervent of\\nembraces, kissing one another over and over on\\nboth cheeks and ejaculating enthusiastically:", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "222 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n^^Ach HimmelV\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0Du lieber MannV\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0Mein bester Frevnd! and so on repeatedly\\nuntil at last they subsided into their seats, still\\nclasping hands and beaming upon each other\\ndelightedly. We looked on with amused inter-\\nest, striving to fancy the closest of American\\nmale relatives going through such a scene even\\nin private. Not that we condemned the spirit;\\nindeed, we considered it rather refreshing and\\ninfinitely preferable to the bored and blase de-\\nmeanor affected by many of our exponents of\\ngood form; still, it might be well to take ac-\\ncount of stage-setting and audience, before fully\\ngiving way to one s emotions.\\nBy this time we had all found places, and\\nsoon moved slowly across the stream.\\nArriving safely, my companions scattered\\ntheir several ways, and I wandered through the\\ndelightfully quaint little village, on past an\\nancient church where, turning, one follows a\\ngood wide path that ascends gradually but con-\\nstantly as one proceeds. It winds along through\\na narrow ravine, thickly wooded, and almost\\nimmediately there is no trace of human occupa-\\ntion and one seems to be in the very depths of\\nsome foi est primeval.\\nThe path gradually contracts and soon the\\nway becomes but a mere defile between great,\\ntowering buttresses of gray rock, which stand\\nout in solid masses of such substantial and reg-\\nular continuity, that they seem to have been\\nreared by giant hands under the leadership of\\nsome mighty master-mason.\\nThough the trees have now removed them-\\nselves to the top of these lofty battlements, for\\nthere is no room for them in the gorge, yet the\\nair is cool and the light shaded, for these reach", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 223\\ndown to the wayfarer, from above into the\\nabyss, between hundreds of feet of solid rock.\\nThough it seems so isolated, yet it is not\\nlonely, for merry parties are continually coming\\nand going upon this marvelous, meandering way.\\nA company of children under charge of two or\\nthree adults, passes on singing; it disappears\\naround a turn of the mighty chasm, and the\\nvoices come back echoing and re-echoing from\\nthe granite walls.\\nStill upward and onward; here and there a\\nvine trails downward from far above, or some\\naspiring moss stretches up from the foot of the\\nprolonged precipice, and embroiders the gray\\nsurface of the rocky ramparts in traceries of\\nliving green. A little rill flows out now and\\nthen, and a daring blossom thrusts forth its\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0dainty head at occasional intervals.\\nUp and up and up still tower the rocks on\\nhigh, growing more grotesque and tremendous\\nbut we are coming to the top and finally we\\nemerge from the defile, into an extensive pine\\nwool through which we clamber still upward.\\nAnd now we come to level ground and discover\\na tiny, woodland restaurant, Der Steinerne\\nTisch, or The Stony Table, with inviting at-\\ntractions for refreshment but we are too near\\nthe aim of our exertions to stop here, so we\\npress on, and at length we reach the highest\\npeak of this huge precipice called the Bastei.\\nThere is a fine inn on the summit of the cliffs,\\nand the whispering forest creeps up close to its\\nwalls. Between the main fayade of the inn and\\nthe brink of the crags, are exceedingly wide\\nTerandas, railed in for safety s sake, and here\\nwas found a motley company of pleasure-seek-\\ners, eating, drinking, chatting cosily, or listen-\\ning to the music provided for its entertainment.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "224 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nFinding a seat close to the edge of the plat-\\nform, I look down on the wonderful panorama\\nspread out below.\\nNorth, south, east and west, the eye sweeps in\\nvoiceless admiration. Far down in the green\\nand peaceful valley, the Elbe rolls its placid\\nwaters, six hundred and forty-five feet beneath,\\nbearing upon its bosom many a little craft of\\npleasure or traffic and curving gracefully from\\npoint to point until lost amid the wooded ra-\\nvines and stony stefps at either hand. Tiny\\nhamlets dot its borders, country roads and fer-\\ntile fields lie all along its stretches, until the\\nmighty bastions of rugged rock tower up beyond,\\nseeming to say Thus far and no farther.\\nWe are told that from this pinnacle one over-\\nlooks the whole of Saxon Switzerland, and we\\nare willing to believe it as we gaze abroad.\\nAnd now, 1 aving feasted bodily and spiritual\\neye to the full, a more ignoble, perhaps, but not\\nless useful organ asserts its claims to recogni-\\ntion, so I summon a JTeZZ/^er, and demand\\nsome slight internal refreshment.\\nAnd what will the gracious lady be pleased\\nto desire? is the polite inquiry of that func-\\ntionary.\\nThe gracious lady intimates a longing for\\nchocolate and cake.\\nThey appear the first is tempting; the sec-\\nond interesting but unrecognizable. I appeal\\nto the waiter: What is this?\\nCake, gracious lady.\\nWhat makes it so dark?\\nIt is the flour, gracious lady.\\nBut why is it so dry and queer?\\nIt is its age, gracious lady.\\nIts age I don t want aged cake; bring me\\nsome fresh, please?", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 225\\nBut perhaps the gracious lady does not know\\nthat we make it only once a year and it is not\\nnow the season.\\nI am aghast. Cake a year old How do they\\never manage to keep it in any wise, for that\\ntime, and why do they wish to do so? For it is\\nnot a rich fruit cake with wines and spices to\\npreserve it.\\nBut I have exposed my ignorance, doubtless,\\nby my horrified expression, for the servant goes\\non to explain that this cake is a specialty in\\nthis region that it is prepared from a recipe\\nhanded down from time immemorial and is, by\\nsome method which I really did not comprehend,\\nsubjected to a sort of curing process per-\\nhaps on the principle applied in treating certain\\ncelebrated cheeses, that must lie for a year or so\\nin special caves under peculiar conditions, to\\nacquire their distinctive qualities. At all\\nevents, the waiter prevailed upon me to taste the\\ncake and, to my amazement, I found it to be\\nvery good indeed. I regret that I neglected to\\nask its name, so I can only refer to it, on occa-\\nsion, as the aged cake.\\nOne has a choice of a variety of routes on the\\nBastei, and, in descending, I took the shortest\\nand most precipitous, that leading to Rathen.\\nAfter goicg down the first descent from the\\nhotel, one passes over a massive, mid-air bridge\\nconstructed in 1851, that connects the various\\nsummits of the rocky pinnacles that here rise\\nhundreds of feet from the valley.\\nMost astonishing and diverse are the views\\none obtains from this bridge, as one is alter-\\nnately completely shut in by the huge turrets of\\nragged rock, or gazes off into space and dowia\\ninto the abysses at either hand that on the\\nright revealing the smiling valley, that on the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "226 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nleft, great masses of rock clothed in hardy\\nwoodland growth of varied green.\\nHigh up on these grim walls that rise so far\\nabove one s head, is set many a tablet commem-\\norative of some honored citizen or eventful occa-\\nsion of the vicinity.\\nShortly after leaving the bridge, the path\\nbroadens and a space of perhaps fifteen feet in\\nwidth is reached. Here, at the extreme verge\\nof the precipice, looms a mighty boulder, so\\nvast that one s mind fails to take in a computa-\\ntion of its solid contents.\\nApparently poised and ready for a plunge, it\\nis in reality perfectly firm, and its base is beau-\\ntified by neatly kept beds of blooming plants\\nand flowering vines for this boulder has been\\nconverted into a monument to some sweet singer\\ndear to the Saxon heart, and his name and fame\\nare set forth in graven letters far above.\\nThen again the path contracts between the\\nstern stone walls and, growing steeper and\\nsteeper, is at length merged into one long stair-\\ncase of stony steps, to cut which must have cost\\nalmost inconceivable time and labor, and which\\nis so narrow that one s out-stretched hands may\\neasily touch the rocks at either side, nearly all\\nthe way. Occasionally there will come a short,\\ncomparatively level stretch, where trees spring\\nup and mosses and ferns abound, then more\\nsteps and again down, down, down.\\nThis, though very tiring, is exceedingly rapid\\ntraveling, and presently a lovely, green, sloping\\nmeadow is reached, around the edge of which\\nthe path leads on, until soon it descends again\\nsteeply and a few more steps appear; then a\\npaved way which finally leads down into the\\npretty, rustic village of Rathen, with a ruined\\ncastle overlooking the cottages and lanes.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 227\\nThe railway station is on the opposite side\\nand, as I am about to embark in a little row-boat\\nto reach that point, I glance up the stream and\\nperceive a small steamer coming down, and find\\nthat I can return to Dresden by water.\\nSo I board the trim vessel and, finding a quiet\\nand sheltered nook on the rear deck, I compose\\nmy weary limbs in a comfortable position and\\nwatch the lovely panorama unroll itself behind\\nus, as we make our way back to the city; stop-\\nping with shrill toot and much churning up\\nof the current, now on one side of the river,\\nnow on the other, at the neat villages scattered\\nall along the shores.\\nSome of the towns are of considerable conse-\\nquence, as Pirna, with its fourteen thousand in-\\nhabitants, its old fortress and its quarries of\\nsandstones or Koenigstein, not so extensive in\\npopulation, but possessing a still more impor-\\ntant fortress imposingly situated eight hundred\\nand fifteen feet above the Elbe.\\nThis great pile was originally a castle, down\\nto 1401 then a monastery, then again fortified\\nin 1540. Its well is six hundred and twenty feet\\ndeep and contains sixty-five feet of water. We\\nare told that the treasures and archives of Sax-\\nony, are deposited in this fortress in time of war,\\nbut at present it is used as a state-prison. But\\nmost of the landing-places are merely rural ham-\\nlets or the summer homes of urban denizens.\\nNot far from Koenigstein and rising some one\\nhundred and fifty feet higher, appears the Lilien-\\nstein of tragic memory. At the base of this\\nhuge crag in 1756, fourteen thousand Saxon sol-\\ndiers were surrounded by Prussians under Fred-\\nerick the Great, and compelled to surrender on\\naccount of hunger. But nature smiles on as\\never, and fair and peaceful glints the landscape\\nin the summer sunset.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "228 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nIt is a much longer distance back by water than\\nby rail, and evening tints and shadows begin to\\ncreep athwart the scene, ere we come to the\\nlong rows of fine villas that mark the approach\\nto Dresden, The noble contours of the city s\\nimpressive architecture and the graceful spans\\nof its artistic bridges, are thrown distinctly\\nagainst the deepening sky as we glide into port,\\nand find ourselves at our journey s end.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVI.\\nFrom Dresden to Leipsic is but a short jour-\\nney, only two and one quarter hours by express.\\nThe train winds along through a very pretty\\ncountry on leaving Dresden, keeping for some\\ntime at the base of the Loessnitz Hilk, which\\nare with verdure clad and dotted with many\\nfine villas and country homes.\\nI did not stop long enough in Leipsic to gain\\nmuch of an idea of its characteristics. It is, of\\ncourse, well known as the center of Germany s\\nbook trade, a position it has held for over a\\nhundred years. Statistics show there are more\\nthan a hundred printing offices and about six\\nhundred and fifty publishers, and book-estab-\\nlishments in this city of three hundred and fifty\\nsix thousand inhabitants, while publishers in\\nother parts of Germany have, almost without\\nexception, emporiums of their books at Leipsic,\\nwhence they are sent out over all the world.\\nLeipsic is also the seat of the supreme law-\\ncourts of the German empire, while its facili-\\nties for the study of music and other special\\nlines, are taken advantage of by hundreds of\\nforeign students. The city is not so handsome,\\nto my thinking, as many another in this region,\\nbut it has of course, its fine and interesting\\nfeatures.\\nThe name is said to have been at first Lipzk,\\nor the town of lime trees. It is mentioned\\nfirst in history in the eleventh century and was\\nsoon after fortified. These fortifications are\\nnow changed, as in so many other old-world", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "230 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ntowns, into pleasant promenades beyond which\\nlie the inner suburbs, which in turn are inclosed\\nby the outer suburbs.\\nThe New Theater is a handsome building;\\nthe Museum opposite is chiefly noted for its col-\\nlection of modern pictures; the Augusteum is\\nthe si at of the University founded in 1408 and\\nnow attended by more than three thousand stu-\\ndents. These edifices, with the post-office, sur-\\nround the spacious Augustas Platz where is also\\na fine, monumental fountain.\\nGoethe was a student here in 1767-8. Auer-\\nbach s Keller on Grimmaische street, is celebra-\\nted as the scene of a part of Faust; it contains\\nsome curious mural paintings representing, we\\naie told, the tradition on which the play is\\nbased.\\nIn Goethe street is an obelisk celebrating the\\ncompletion of the Leipsic and Dresden railway,\\nwhich was opened in 1837 and was the first of\\nany importance in Germany. Of course, as an\\nold University center, Leipsic has numberless\\nrelics of celebrated men.\\nPoets, philosophers, musicians, painters and\\nothers are commemorated by tablet and token, by\\nmonumental brass and stone.\\nThe Rosenthal and the Connewitz Woods are\\nboth pleasant sylvan retreats beautified by skill\\nand taste. Two miles southeast of Leipsic, is\\nNapoleonstein, a wooded height from wliioh Na-\\npoleon watched the progress of the battle of\\nLeipsic in 1814. It lasted, as history tells us,\\nfour days, and is the most prolonged and san-\\nguinary on record. Many relics have naturally\\nbeen found about here and are preserved with\\ngreat care. The only building on which bullet-\\nmarks are still visible, is the chateau at Doelitz,\\ntwo miles west of the obelisk.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 231\\nLeaving Leipsic by the Thuringian railway, I\\nfound myself passing through an exceedingly\\npicturesque district.\\nWe change cars at Corbetha,near which three\\ncelebrated battles were fought in the years\\nagone, in the first of which, Lueten, Gustavus\\nAdolphus, king of Sweden, was mortally wound-\\ned. At Rossbach, Frederick the Great gained a\\nsignal victory in 1757; and in 1815 a fierce en-\\ngagement took place between the allied Russians\\nand Prussians against the French. How every\\nfoot of these ancient lands has been dyed over\\nand over, throughout the centuries, in the bright\\ntide of human blood. Even so in our own land, no\\ndoubt, but the red chieftains and warriors of\\nthose bygone ages there, had no poet, no his-\\ntorian, and so their bravery and valor, their\\nstruggles and conquests, are all unwritten and\\nunsung and we know them not.\\nAll is smiling and peaceful here now as we run\\nalong in the valley of the Saale. amidst many\\nspots of quaint and historical interest; the\\ncountry gradually becomes more broken and we\\nsee vineyards all about on the hill-sides, while\\nfrom frequent castle and cathedral, turret and\\npinnacle spring aloft toward the clear, blue\\nsky.\\nA pleasant lady now joins me in my compart-\\nment where I have been for some time alone.\\nSeeing I have English literature, she is interested\\nand we get into conversation. She is familiar\\nwith this part of the country and kindly calls my\\nattention to many a point that other v.-ise mighfc,\\nhave escaped my notice. The dusky evening be-\\ngins to gather as we wind in and out of the hills\\nand along by the rippling river. We have left\\nthe Saale and are now on the banks of the 11m.\\nSuddenly we are abreast of two striking ruins so", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "232 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nnear that they are startlingly distinct in the\\nshadowy light. They are not of the soft gray\\nhue that is usually the result of the wear and\\ntear of ages, but of a light yellowish tint, some-\\nthing like the cream-colored brick of our central\\nstates.\\nThey stand facing each other across a narrow\\ngulch and are not perched, as is general, upon\\nsome dizzy height, but stand on two moderately\\nhigh elevations that slope gently down to the\\nvalley. Cruel rents and jagged breaches are\\nin their dismantled walls, evincing the desper-\\nate struggles through which they have passed.\\nMy companion says that it was an ancient\\ncustom of certain tribal enemies, to rear castles\\nthus near each other on the edges of a ravine,\\nand then to fight across until one or the other\\nparty was conquered or exterminated, when the\\nvanquisher took possession of his victim s prop-\\nerty. The slopes seemed so soft in their con-\\ntours and the green grass so velvety and tender,\\nthat those grim objects looming up in the dim\\nlight had a weird and peculiar effect.\\nWeimar is reached only in time for supper\\nand bed, but the next morning I start out with\\nrenewed vigor. Very lovely indeed looked the\\nold town which has so many literary associa-\\ntions, the master spirits among which are\\nGoethe and Schiller.\\nThe houses of each of these two distinguished\\nwriters and world-poets, are kept as far as\\npossible in the condition in which they were\\nleft by their distinguished occupants.\\nSchiller s home is modest and unpretending,\\nconsisting of a few rooms in the upper story of\\na medium-sized house in Schiller Street. They\\nare plainly furnished and contain many personal\\n.and family mementoes. Schiller s life in Wei-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n233\\nmar was brief as compared with Goethe s, and\\nthe former had neither the time nor the oppor-\\ntunity to gather about him such treasures as\\nGoethe accumulated in his long and varied ex-\\nistence.\\nIt seemed strange to look out at the windows\\nand reflect that I was gazing upon the same\\nscene that Schiller had viewed day after day;\\nto sit at the desk and in the chair where he\\nwrote his wondrous lines to go down the nar-\\nrow stairs which he must have trodden so many\\nInnumerable times back and forth. It made me\\nsorrowful for, speaking from his immortal works,\\nhe had ever before seemed a living presence\\nto me, and now I realized that he was dead and\\nthat the places that knew him were empty for-\\never.\\nI did not feel the same sensation of sadness\\nin Goethe s house. Perhaps it is because the\\nplace is so very different, so much more exten-\\nsive, and fitted up so much more in the style of\\na public museum, that the idea of personality is\\nlost in a measure, and one feels rather as if\\nmerely viewing another of the numerous art and\\ncurio collections that so abound abroad.\\nGoethe was a wide traveler, a most cultivated\\nand many-sided character. He lived in Weimar\\nfifty-six years, during forty of which this\\nhouse, presented to him by Duke Karl August,\\nwas the dwelling of the great poet. A spacious\\nstaircase with wide ante-rooms, designed by\\nGoethe and profusely decorated with statues\\nand cartoons, leads to the reception-rooms. To\\nthe left is the Juno Room then follow the Urbino\\nRoom; the Dechenzimmer, which with the ad-\\njoining chamber, forms a suite; the Bust Room\\nthe Garden Room, besides the more usual living-\\nrooms.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "234 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nIn these apartments, arranged and classified\\nby Goethe s own hand, are his wonderful accu-\\nmulations of portraits, antique gems, medals,\\norders, rings, copies of and original valuable\\nmanuscripts, paintings, sketches and drawings^\\nbesides a large number of Goethe s own handi-\\nwork, medallions, gifts from countries, cities,\\ncorporations and friends from all parts of the\\nworld, including one from the United States,\\nwhich consists only of a small circular disc of\\nsome kind of wood, on which was imprinted the\\nname of some newspaper and the date, 1846 (I\\nam sorry that I omitted to take a note of the\\ninscription, and find that I can not recall it;)\\nvases, cups, drinking horns, rare china, coins,\\nplaques, minerals, precious stones, statuettes,\\nsculptures, the piano on which young Mendels-\\nsohn played, and so forth, iu eluding, I verily\\nbelieve, every variety of objects that can be\\ncollected, except living specimens.\\nOne is first dazzled, then dazed by the variety,\\nvalue and beauty of this astonishing array, and\\nit is rather a relief to come at last to the back\\nof the house where, overlooking an old-fashioned\\ngarden, are Goethe s simple study and bedroom.\\nThese two are furnished in the sparest and\\nplainest fashion, the bedroom containing nothing\\nbut a single-bed, a bare wooden wash-stand and\\na large arm-chair by no means luxurious, in which\\nhe died. The floor is bare, the room narrow\\nand contracted, with but one small window, yet\\nit is just as he left it.\\nFrom these close confines, that mighty genius\\nwhich had moved the world with its wondrous\\npower, went out into the mystic beyond leaving\\nin passing, no feeblest trace or impress upon\\nthe material objects that had served its earthly\\nneeds so long.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 235\\nOh the mystery of spirit, which, while here\\nin mortal guise, can sway the whole round globe\\nand yet, departing, freed from fleshly housings,\\ncan send back no slightest manifestation there-\\nafter, through all the ages of the circling\\nspheres.\\nThere is no one left to inherit Goethe s fame\\nand treasures they are accredited to the state\\nthe family is extinct.\\nPassing out f^^om all these mementoes of a\\nvanished existence, I come again into the warm\\nsunshine and roam about where fancy beckons.\\nOf course Weimar has its Schloss, and I come\\nupon it quite accidentally, in passing through a\\nqueer and crooked street which takes me round\\nmany a turn and corner.\\nSuddenly it broadens out and upon the oppo-\\nsite side stretches away a beautiful domain of\\nemerald turf and majestic trees, while a massive\\nand stately edifice rears itself in the midst of\\nthe cool shades. Noticing a seat at hand by\\nthe door of a shop, I take possession of the same\\nand, looking across, enjoy and admire.\\nYoung Germany, in the guise of a toddler of\\nabout eighteen months, comes out of the shop\\nand welcomes me rapturously. I return the\\nsmall man s expansive smiles and shake the\\nchubby, little paw, somewhat begrimed, that he\\ninsists on offering. Not content with this, he\\nambles back into the house and returns with his\\nmother, performing all that is essential in the\\nway of introduction, by renewed smiles, many\\ngestures and several gee-gees and da-das,\\na sort of infantile Volapuek. The mother also\\nproves friendly and is much pleased to learn\\nthat I am admiring the view. And then rested\\nand cheered, I go on to the many other intt- rest-\\ning spots that I must not attempt now to chron-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "236 ONE WOalAN WANDERING\\nicle, merely referring to the Stadt Kirche, with\\nits parsonage near by occupied by Herder for so\\nmany years, and to a fine, bronze statue of him,\\nstanding in front of the church and bearing on\\nthe pedestal his favorite motto, \u00e2\u0096\u00a0^Licht, Hebe,\\nLehen,^ (Light, Love, Life.)\\nThere are numerous monuments in Weimar to\\nits celebrated men, as Karl August, Wieland and\\nothers, but the most imposing of all, is that\\nerected to Goethe and Schiller in front of the\\nTheater, where the colossal figures in bronze of\\nthe two poet-friends, are represented standing\\nside by side, with clasped hands.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVII.\\nWithout having half exhausted the interests of\\nWeimar, I continue through the hills and dales\\nand beside the numerous water-courses of this\\npicturesque region.\\nThe weather is still delightful in fact, I am\\ncharmed with the summer climate of the conti-\\nnent, so far as I have experienced it. The sun\\nshines out clear and genial but not oppressive\\nour excessive heat is unknown and in the warm-\\nest days it is cool in the shade. Another most\\nremarkable thing is the scarcity of flies and\\ninsects. 1 have not yet seen a screen in use,\\nthough I did notice two windows in Potsdam\\nthat had screens at hand, also one later in a\\nhotel in Holland, but they are almost unknown.\\nDoors and windows stand wide open night after\\nnight 1 read or write by gas, oil, electricity or can-\\ndle as the case may be, before open windows,\\nand yet never a fly or a moth disturbs me then,\\nnor during my highly prized morning nap. This\\ncould not be done with us at home in mid-sum-\\nmer, nor indeed at any time from April to\\nOctober. The nights are cool and refreshing\\nand I have never yet been inconvenienced by\\nthe heat, though the natives frequently com-\\nplain because it is so awfully hot.\\nNot far from Weimar we come to Erfurt, a\\nquaint old town near which is a salt mine with\\na shaft thirteen hundred feet deep.\\nThe train now approaches the north slope of\\nthe Thuringian forest. The hills grow more\\ntowering and on nearly every height is a castle,\\n337", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "238 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\neither in ruins or brought down to date for\\nmodern use. About five miles from Erfurt, are\\nthree isolated hills called the Di^ei Gleichen,\\nwhich might be freely translated as three of a\\nkind; they are each topped by a castle; one of\\nthese, the Wachsenburg, is in good preservation,\\nthe other two are beautiful in their decay.\\nSkirting the Seeberg, we come in view of\\nGotha, a busy mercantile place, beyond which a\\nfine outlook is obtained on to the Thuringian\\nmountains.\\nNow we follow the course of the river Hoersel.\\nAlong, jagged and precipitous range rises, on\\nthe right, called the Hoerselberg. This attains\\na height of fifteen hundred and seventy-five\\nfeet and extends nearlj to Eisenach. Tradition\\nlocates here the grotto of Venus, into which that\\ngoddess lured the knight Tanhaeuser.\\nSoon we see against the horizon the towers\\nof Eisenach, a town of twenty-one thousand in-\\nhabitants and commonly called the finest point\\nin the Thuringian forest. Five hundred and\\nsixty-five feet above the city looms the great for-\\ntified castle of the Wartburg, situated on a mount\\nof the same name. Founded in 1070, it has\\npassed through numerous startling vicissitudes,\\nbut in the last half century has been restored\\nto its original grandeur and ranks as one of the\\nbest Romanesque secular buildings now\\nexisting. A grand retrospect of the\\nfrowning old fortress, is had as the train fol-\\nlows the Hoersel to its junction with the Werra.\\nThe ruins of Castle Brandenburg are seen on\\nthe left and then an envious tunnel shuts olf our\\nview.\\nWe next find ourselves in the valley of the\\nFulda. Fine streams are numerous and the\\ncountry is undulating but with few prominent", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n239\\nelevations. At Hersfeld is pointed out to us a\\nBenedictine Abbey founded in 769, once of great\\nimportance but now used as a school-house.\\nThe abbey church was destroyed in 1761, but its\\nruins are majestic in their beauty.\\nThis secition of the country was occupied at a\\nvery early date.\\nThe town of Fulda owes its origin to an ab-\\nbey founded in 754, while its little church of St.\\nMichael, was consecrated in 822.\\nMany ruins all about in vale and on height,\\ngive picturesque evidence of time s tireless ener-\\ngies.\\nThe train descends the valley of the Kinzig.\\nIn this river is an island whereon are the remains\\nof an imperial palace erected before the year\\n1170. Here the emperor Frederick Barbarossa\\nheld a Diet in eleven hundred and eighty, to\\npronounce the deposition of Duke Henry the\\nLion ()f Saxony. Beyond this point the country\\nis level. We reach Hanau, noted, among other\\nthings, as the birth-place of Jacob and Wilhelm\\nGrimm. We cross and recross the mighty river\\nMain and find ourselves in low-lying Frankfort.\\nFlat indeed it seems to eyes for some time ac-\\ncustomed to the diversified scenery farther east,\\nof the Hartz Mountains, of the Saxon peaks and\\npinnacles, and to the pleasing heights and\\nwooded slopes of the Thuringian and the Black\\nforests. Not an eminence is to be noted as one s\\neyes sweep about, and the horizon is unbroken\\nexcept for the uprising towers and turrets, of\\nwhich Frankfort has its full quota.\\nAges ago, we are told, a vast expanse of water\\nrolled over this plain, filling the space from the\\nAlps and the Jura to the Taunus and Hunds-\\nrueck mountains, and connected by a narrow\\nsea-arm to the German Ocean. But now we see", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "240 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nno rolling waters except the magnificent Main,\\nwhich adds so much to the attractiveness and\\nimportance of the city.\\nFrankfort ambitiously dates itst-lf back to the\\nfirst century when, it is claimed, the Romans\\nbuilt a castle on the present Cathedral Hill,\\nso called, though why hill, I am unable to\\ndivine.\\nThis Roman military post fell before the con-\\nquering German tribes of the third century,\\nwho themselves were conquered centuries after,,\\nby the Franks.\\nThe place is first mentioned as Franco-furty\\nthe ford of the Franks country, in a docu-\\nment dated 790 and three years afterward,\\nCharlemange came here with his whole court\\nand remained eight months. I came across a.\\nlittle German poem the other day, written long\\nago by August Kopisch, which gives the tradi-\\ntional discovery of the Franks ford. Per-\\nhaps my lone sister may be interested in a,\\ntranslation\\nThe best of all his heroes in Saxony lay dead,\\nThence Carolus Magnus, Kaiser, in dire disaster\\nfled.\\nOn to the Main, my soldiers, a ford we there must\\nfind,\\nBut woe, tlie mist lies forward, the foe crowds\\nclose behind!\\nThen Carolus sank down praying on knee beside his\\nspear.\\nWhen lo! tiie mist divided, while fortli there\\nsprang a deer;\\nShe led her young in safety through to tlie other\\nside,\\nAnd thus by God s own favor the Franks the ford\\nespied", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\n241\\nThen forward all pressed over, as Israel through\\ntl^e sea,\\nThe Saxons, mist-enveloped, no ford beyond could\\nsee.\\nThen struck the Kaiser Carol upon the sand his\\nspear,\\nAnd vowed, It shall forever be called the Frank s\\nford here.\\nBut later back he came there with mighty warrior-\\nband.\\nBy which he then had conquered the lovely Saxon\\nland.\\nBut yonder on the river now shines a city proud,\\nWith noble sons and daughters, with wealth and\\nfame endowed.\\nAnd there has many a Kaiser been crowned with\\nCarol s crown,\\nAnd on his throne be-jeweled,in splendor sat him\\ndown.\\nThere oxen whole are roasted, there wine in foun-\\ntains flows.\\nThere gifts for every poor man the horn of plenty\\ns trows.\\nThe chief lord to the Kaiser lifts cup in Roemer s\\nhall;\\nWith Kaiser-portraits covered gleams forth each\\nglittering wall.\\nWith Kaiser-portraits covered o er every inch of\\nspace,\\nNo later ruler s picture could find there now a\\nplace.\\nThus Germany s first Kaiser name for the city\\nfound,\\nAnd Germany s last Kaiser was in this city\\ncrowned.\\nStirring and vivid have been the fortunes of\\nthe ancient city fierce and tireless the war-\\nfares waged by opposing powers, for supremacy\\nwithin its borders hard indeed is it to realize", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "242 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nits vicissitudes of the past, as one walks through\\nthe handsome city of to-day.\\nThere are a few traces yet existing of the la-\\nter day fortifications of the town. One of these\\nis the Eschenheimer tower, a noble specimen of\\nmediiieval, defensive architecture. This tower\\nhas its tradition as follows\\nHans Winkelsee, a poacher, fired at a munici-\\npal gamekeeper and, after an imprisonment of\\nnine months in this tower, was to be executed.\\nHe claimed to have fired only to frighten the\\nkeeper and not with intent to kill, as otherwise\\nhe certainly would have hit him.\\nIn order to show his unerring markmanship,\\nhe offered to shoot nine bullets in nine shots\\ninto the weather-vane of the tower as he suc-\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0ceeded, his life was spared and he was set at\\nliberty.\\nFrankfort has a fine cathedral but, though it\\noccupies the site of a succession of previous sa-\\ncred edifices running back to the ninth century,\\nthe present building is very modern, having been\\nerected between the years 1869 and 1880, the\\nstructure immediately preceding having been\\ndestroyed by fire. There is a very peculiar mor-\\ntuary memorial in the inclosed yard of this\\ncathedral. It consists of a most realistic repre-\\nsentation of the crucifixion, with life-sized\\nfigures and all the accompanying dreadful and\\nagonizing details. These are wrought out in\\nstone and are made still more conspicuous by be-\\ning raised upon an eminence of some two or three\\nfeet, which forms the base of the singular mon-\\nument erected to himself by some one whose\\nname is duly inscribed on a tablet below, but\\nwhich has entirely escaped me in the horror ex-\\ncited by the grewsomeness of his taste in art.\\nThe cathedral was shown to me by a very pleas-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 243\\nant young man who, to his honor be it recorded,\\nnot only did not expect a tip, but actually\\ndeclined it when offered. And to my great and\\nincreasing surprise, the same thing occurred here\\nin another church, that of St. Leonard s, and\\nthis episode was quite a refreshing incident in\\nmy experience.\\nThe churches of Germany are not so univer-\\nsally accessible to visitors as in France, though\\nI believe the Roman Catholic ones are always\\nopen.\\nI have seen here none of that ceremonious and\\npompous display at funerals which is so com-\\nmon in France, and am told that it finds no\\nfavor in Germany. The Germans, however,\\nhave one odd custom on such occasions, and that\\nis the heading of the funeral train by a woman\\nwhom they style the Toten-Frau,, or Death-\\nWoman, whose office it is to prepare the body\\nfor the grave, and then clad in black, with long\\nstreamers from her sable cap, and with as many\\nof the funeral garlands as she can carry, to\\nmarch in front of the procession, which is not\\nmade up, as with us, of a line of carriages, but\\nsimply an open hearse having canopy but no\\nsides, followed by men walking in couples.\\nWith the exception of the Toten-Frau, no wo-\\nman takes part in German obsequies, so far as I\\nhave been able to ascertain.\\nFrankfort has many modern public buildings\\nof a noble and majestic order of architecture;\\nespecially may be noted the New Exchange, the\\nGeneral Post-Offlce, and the Grand Opera House.\\nThe Central Railway Station is a magnificent and\\nartistic edifice costing, 1 am told, the sum of\\nthirty-five million marks, or more than eight\\nmillion dollars.\\nThere are also some remaining specimens of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "244 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthe beautiful timber architecture of the middle\\nages, of which the lioemer, or city-hall, is a re-\\nmarkably handsome and interesting example,\\nwith decorations of marvelous variety and finish.\\nThe great festal-hall within, alluded to in the\\npoem, is truly a splendid chamber.\\nGoethe was born in Frankfort and his birth-\\nplace, a substantial structure of three stories,\\nhaving dormer windows and a pointed gable\\nhaving two stories more, has been thoroughly\\nrestored and is carefully preserved by the\\nFrankforters.\\nOne especially odd building stands at the cor-\\nner of the Eschenheimer street; it is call Zum\\nKaiser Karl, or The Emperor Charles, from\\nthe fact that Charles VII. lived in a house on\\nthe same site in 1742-3 and -4. The present edi-\\nfice is not at all modern. The outside is adorned\\nwith allegorical figures representing pride, la-\\nziness, envy, avarice, intemperance, voluptuous-\\nness, and anger; also the virtues of charity,\\nhusbandry, valour, love, industry and honesty;\\nfurther supplemented by illustrations of the do-\\nmestic labors of the days of the week. The\\nheads of these figures are particularly grotesque,\\nand from this fact the house is called the Frat-\\nzeneck, or grimaces-corner.\\nThe streets of Frankfort, however, though\\nusually well built, are not so pleasing as in many\\nother places. The location is unfavorable to\\npicturesque vistas, and as a rule there is too lit-\\ntle variety in architecture. One of the finest\\nand most important avenues is called the Zeil.\\nLike most German towns, Frankfort has a de-\\nlightful wooded park and numerous monuments\\nto public men and events. The Gutenburg\\nmemorial commemorative of the invention of\\nprinting, is perhaps the most imposing of the\\nlatter.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 245\\nThe year 1866, diastrous to the fortunes of so\\nmany German provinces, terminated the in-\\ndependence of Frankfort and led to its annexa-\\ntion to Prussia. It evidently has no reason to\\nregret its change of dynasty, and keeps on the\\neven tenor of its way, a busy and prosperous\\ncity.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVIII.\\nA run of two or three hours from Frankfort,\\nthrough scenery gradually changing from a\\nmonotonous level to diversified heights of rare\\nbeauty, brings the traveler to that famous old\\ntown apostrophized so long ago by the German\\npoet as\\nOld Heidelberg, thou beauty.\\nWith many honors crowned,\\nAlong the Rhine or Neckar,\\nNo town like thee is found.\\nThe location is indeed charming; the little\\ncity lies at the foot of the lofty elevation from\\nwhich the place takes its name, and upon the\\nmargin of the fine river Neckar which winds\\ngently through this fertile valley.\\nThe objective point of interest to the sight-\\nseer here, is the massive old castle towering\\naloft in ruined majesty upon the precipitous\\nwell-wooded hill called the Jettenbuehl. Diverse\\nhave been the fortunes of the old pile, since\\nRudolph I. built the most ancient part in 1204.\\nIn the Thirty Years War, the old structure suf-\\nfered so much that it was rendered absolutely\\nuninhabitable it was restored and fortified anew\\nin 1649, only to be repeatedly blown up and\\npulled down by the French in the Orleans\\nWar, as fast as the breaches were repaired.\\nAfter this war, the castle was again in a measure\\nrestored, when in 1764 it was struck by light-\\nning and the whole interior fell a sacrifice to\\nthe flames. Since then no further restorations\\nhave been attempted, but from 1830, the great-\\n246", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 247\\nest care has been exercised to preserve the ruins\\nfrom further decay.\\nThe easiest and quickest way to ascend the\\nmountain, is by funicular railway, though it is\\nrather trying to susceptible nerves, the grade\\nbeing so remarkably steep and the line passing\\nthrough so many tunnels of inky darkness.\\nOn this hill there once stood an upper and\\na lower castle. That which is known to-day as\\nThe Castle, is the lower structure and stands\\nupon quite an extensive plateau about half way\\nup the great hill. After this one had been com-\\npleted, the upper castle, which was the o der,\\nwas used as an arsenal and powder magazine\\ntill it was struck by lightning in 1537; the ex-\\nplosion was so terrible that not only the upper\\ncastle was almost entirely demolished, but the\\nlower one and the town were seriously damaged.\\nAfter this, the upper citadel remained forsaken\\nuntil 1853, when a Ifolkenkuhr, or Whey-Cure,\\nwas established at this point, the name of which\\nhas entirely superseded that of the Old\\nCastle, by which the place had been always\\nknown.\\nFrom the topis seen a most splendid view;\\nthe castle ruins are particularly picturesque and\\nhave a certain desolate grandeur that is very\\nimpressive. At times the old pile is artificially\\nilluminated and the effect from below is weird-\\nly beautiful.\\nIn the cellars of the lower castle lies the far-\\nfamed Heidelberg Tun of which school children\\nlearn with wonder. It is about twenty-four feet^\\nhigh and thirty-three feet long and its capacity\\nis fifty thousand, nine hundred and twenty gal-.\\nIons. Lying in front of it is a small tun so\\ncalled noted for ite artistic construction, being\\nheld together without hoops. Near by is ai", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "248 ONE WOMAN WANDEKING\\nstatuette representing the dwarf, Clemens Per-\\nkeo, court fool of Karl Philipp, which dwarf,\\ntradition states, drank daily from fifteen to\\neighteen bottles of strong wine. On the tenth\\nof November, 1753, the great tun was filled for\\nthe first time, and, later on, twice again. Since\\nthe great fire at the castle, it has remained\\nempty. There was a pump fitted to it, that\\npassed up into the banquet room, thus render-\\ning the tun s contents easily accessible.\\nThe vault where it lies was probably con-\\nstructed for holding it, as no other one in the\\ncastle is lofty enough to accommodate it.\\nA staircase leads up one side of the tun and\\ndown the other, and we tourists ascended and de-\\ncended the same, dancing an extempore fandan-\\ngo on the top of the tremendous cask.\\nAnother cask called the lesser Heidelberg\\nTun, is in another vault and holds twenty thous-\\nand gallons.\\nTurning from things spiritous to things\\nspiritual, we visit some of the churches of\\nHeidelberg, which are ancient but in good pre-\\nservation. The Holy Ghost Church, built in\\n1400, was long the scene of a bitter religious\\nstrife. The reformation was begun here in\\n1546, by preaching the gospel and administer-\\ning the sacrament in both forms; the Electoral\\nHouse having turned Roman Catholic, the pos-\\nsession of the church was hotly contested. In\\n1705 it was divided by a wall, the choir having\\nbeen assigned to the Romanists and the nave to\\nthe Protestants. Then the Elector told the\\nProtestants if they would resign their claim, he\\nwould build them a new church; they refused\\nand the Elector, to use the vernacular, got\\nmad and took forcible possession of the church,\\npulling down the wall. The Protestants ap-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 249\\npealtd to the Diet and the wall was rebuilt. In\\n1886 it was pulled down again only to be put up\\nonce more in 1893\\nI am moved to wonder if, in all this time,\\nthey ever gave any consideration to the text:\\nBehold how pleasant a thing it is for brethren\\nto dwell together in unity. Probably they did,\\nbut each one was convinced that it applied not\\nto himself, but to the other fellow.\\nIn St, Peter s Church is the tombstone of\\nOlympia Fulvia Morata, the most learned wo-\\nman of the sixteenth century, who was warmly\\ndevoted to religion. Near this chui ch is the\\nold university founded in 1386 by Ruprecht the\\nRed; this institution has flourished or declined\\niaccording to the fortunes of the town. At one\\ntime its possessions on the left bank of the\\nRhine, were coniiscated by the French, and the\\nuniversity was reduced to such poverty that it\\ncould not pay its professors for years. But\\nbetter days dawned and in 1886 it celebrated its\\nfive-hundredth jubilee.\\nHeidelberg College is situated on the oppo-\\nsite side of the river. This institution offers\\nspecial advantages for acquiring modern lan-\\nguages.\\nIn the High street is an ancient structure\\nwhich escaped destruction by the French when\\nthey devastated the town in 1693. This is called\\nthe Bitterhaus, (the House of the Knight,)\\nand is now used as a hotel. It was built in 1592\\nby a French emigrant, and is in the style of the\\nFrench renaissance. On the summit of the\\nfagade is the bust of a knight, and the busts\\nof four Prankish kings adorn the fourth story.\\nBetween the windows of the third story are the\\nbusts of the builder and his wife, with their\\narms and the inscription in Latin: Except the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "250 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nLord bless the house, the labor of the builder is\\nvain. Between the windows of the next lower\\nstory are the busts of the builder s two children.\\nAs this edifice is very narrow and there is no\\nmore place for likenesses, it is well that the\\nbuilder s family was no more extensive,\\nA handsome bridge decorated with sculp-\\ntures leads from the Steingasse across to Neuen-\\nheim, a suburb of Heidelberg.\\nLovely indeed is the view from this bridge;\\nespecially so as I saw it in the last rays of a\\nvanishing sun on a mid-summer evening, just as\\nthe rising moon began to show its reflected splen-\\ndor on the other hand. Toward the west the lin-\\ngering glow of the sunset was tinting river and\\nlow-lying cloudlet, while in the east the silver\\ngleams of the moonlight showed stronger and\\nstronger, pouring over the dark bulk of the\\nlofty hill and throwing out in clear relief the\\ndismantled walls, the shattered buttresses and\\nthe gaping window-spaces of the ruined castle.\\nIt was a romantic and enchanting scene,\\nand I wondered not at the enthusiasm of the\\nbard previously quoted, nor that he should\\ndeclare in closing,\\nAnd oh! if thorns crowd thickly\\nAnd life grows bleak and pale,\\nI ll spur my steed right quickly\\nAnd ride to Neckardale.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIX.\\nFrom Heidelberg I took a brief trip into\\nSwitzerland, going first to Lucerne via Basle, that\\ngreat busy junction of so many lines, with its\\nhandsome, modern station more like those of\\nAmerica in its appointments, than most others\\nabroad, having many conveniences and privi-\\nleges which are, alas, ail extra. Almost every\\none changes trains at Basle, which by the way,\\nthe Germans call Bah-zle and the French\\nBahl, thus making much confusion and per-\\nplexity for unsophisticated foreigners, as both\\nlanguages are heard interchangeably through\\nmost portions of Switzerland.\\nWe passed through Freiburg, noting its\\ngreat cathedral outlined against the summer\\nsky. We soon began to perceive en route that\\nwe were really indeed entering the marvelous\\nland of the Alps, for towering hills began to\\npush out into view, threatening to bar our way\\nas w-f) wound along the most level portions of\\nthe vale, skirting streams and frequently, to my\\nextreme dissatisfaction, dashing through exceed-\\ningly long tunnels.\\nThe weather was enchanting, the scene con-\\nstantly increased in beauty, and, when finally a\\nsuccession of lakes suddenly stretched out before\\nus, with the white-tipped mountains shining in\\nthe distance, no one in the compartment could\\nrepress an ejaculation of delight, and by the\\ntime we reached Lucerne, we were almost\\nspeechless with admiration.\\nLucerne the lovely Gifted indeed far be-\\n251", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "252 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nyond usual endowment, must be the pen or brush\\nthat could even in faint degree, fitly set forth\\nits beauties. The gleaming waters of the river\\nReuss. so strangely green, rushing on in irre-\\nsistable current surpassingly swift, through\\ntheir rock-bound banks the majestic slopes that,\\ntree-studded and diversified by quaint towers and\\nramparts, by stately villas and modest cottages,\\nrise abruptly to the feet of greater heights a-\\nbove; the gigantic Rigi on the left, the stupen-\\ndous Pilatus on the right; while beyond and be-\\ntween spring still loftier eminences, snow-crown-\\ned and sun-kissed, or wreathed in misty veils,\\nfar on high; and over all, blue and beautiful,\\nthe radiant immensity of exhilarant atmosphere\\nlosing itself in the infinity of ethereal space.\\nSuch phrases do but sketch in barest out-\\nline the salient features of the ravishing loveli-\\nness bursting upon the beholder in this enrapt-\\nuring region, yet give no true conception of the\\nwondrous whole. For the first time I admit\\nthat my native land, though it may equal, can-\\nnot excel this peerless picture, and that over the\\ngreat round earth one could scarcely find a\\nscene so fair.\\nYet. why is this? Are there not mountains\\notherwhere? And lakes and streams and islets\\nfair? And charm of sun and shade and sky?\\nNot here alone has history s page been written\\nover and folded back not here alone do ancient\\nspire and tower antique rise side by side with\\npalace new and modern cot nor only here the\\ngay, light-hearted, brilliant throngs, meeting,\\nseparating, shifting back and forth, like the\\nglittering atoms of some huge kaleidoscope.\\nHow is it then that over all there seems to lie\\nsome mystic glamour so filling one s vision that\\none rests content to gaze, beatified as never be-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 253\\nfore? Perhaps it is the blending in one broad\\nsweep of the eyes, of all these features in their\\nloveliness of vaiied charm, that so delights and\\nenchants.\\nFrom all parts of the civilized world, come\\nsummer visitors to this beautiful spot, and many\\nindeed are the sons and daughters of our own\\nfair country gathered here. To all such indeed,\\nwere it a work of supererogation to dwell upon\\nthe attractions, either natural or artistic, of\\nLucerne; the pictures upon memory s tablets are\\nfairer far than can be evoked by words of mine.\\nBut to her the lone sister, who has been my\\ninspiration in these desultory lines, and whose\\nmigrations are yet in the future, may be given\\nperchance even in these inadequate jottings,\\nsome slight meed of pleasure or information.\\nThe history of Lucerne dates back to 735,\\nwhen was fc-unded the convent of St Leodegar.\\nThrilling and momentous have been the events\\nthat gradually evolved this fine and picturesque\\nmodern city from the primitive little assem-\\nblage of fishermen s huts, once clustering about\\nthe convent walls on the banks of the river\\nReuss.\\nThis magnificent river, to whose rapid flow\\nand deep green tint I have already alluded, runs\\ndirectly through the wealthy and fashionable\\nportion of the place, from the Lake of Four\\nCantons along the banks of which the city\\nspreads out continuing lines. The shores of the\\nstream are built up with solid masonry, forming\\na broad and elegant promenade, or quay on\\nboth sides, protected by iron railings and set\\nout in lovely chestnut trees. All along this\\nboulevard is a succession of handsome structures\\nof most varied architecture, broad and low, as\\nis the custom in this part of the world.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "254 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe fine railway station of cream-colored\\nstone, with noble vestibule and imposing cupola,\\nall spacious and well-lighted and almost spot-\\nlessly clfan, first attracts one s attention, then\\nthe wonderful panorama of lake and mountain,\\nstream and sky, ruin, rampart, cottage, villa,\\npromenade and people, flashes upon one s gaze.\\nI have spoken at ditferent times of the many\\ngrand stations in various places on the continent,\\nand again of how unfavorably they compare with\\nour own, and I will pause here to explain this\\nseeming discrepancy. In general, so far as con-\\ncerns artistic design, elegant spaciousness,\\ntasteful decoration, beautiful grounds and al-\\nmost absolute cleanliness, the stations abroad\\nfar surpass our own; but in practical details,\\nin convenience and comfort, in accessibility and\\ncompleteness of all things necessary for the in-\\nformation and speeding of the average traveler,\\nours are far ahead. Many things that we in\\nAmerica take as a matter of course, such as\\ntoilet conveniences, drinking water, and so\\nforth, may be had here, it is true, but not with-\\nout money and without price, as with us.\\nClose to the station in Lucerne, is the fine\\nSeehruecke, or Lake-Bridge, fifty-two feet wide\\nand five hundred feet long, built of stone at\\ngreat expense some eighteen years ago. But\\nstill more charming to one who likes to muse\\nover relics of a by-gone age, are two quaint old\\nbridges that have stood stretching across this\\nrushing current for hundreds of years.\\nOne of these, the Kapellhruecke crossing the\\nriver diagonally, is a curious structure dating\\nfrom 1333, and is built entirely of wood, which\\nis sound and strong to-day. It is perhaps eight\\nfeet wide and is approached by a few wooden\\nsteps. The sides are inclosed to a height of", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 255\\npossibly three feet, and queer wooden posts at\\nregular intervals on each side, support a pointed\\nroof that covers the entire structure. In the\\ntriangular spaces formed by the peak of the roof\\nand the junction of its sides with each pair of\\nopposing posts, are fitted smooth boards upon\\nwhich is painted a succession of historical pic-\\ntures, queer and interesting in the extreme.\\nHere are depicted the heroic deeds and suffer-\\nings of the old Switzers and their patron saints,\\nXieodegar and Maurice, from the most primitive\\ntimes down to the medigeval period. Under each\\npicture is inscribed one or more of those rhym-\\ning couplets in which the German of the Middle\\nAges so delighted to express himself, as I\\nhave had occasion to note before and while the\\nSwitzer is not a German, yet there is enough\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0similarity between the German language and his\\nown to imbue him with much the same shade of\\nthought and expression. The colors in the pic-\\ntures are dimmed and the script nearly effaced\\none must go on step by step, with eyes raised and\\nhead thrown back, in Order to see them at all.\\nNearly half way across in the midst of this\\niDridge, stands an old octagonal tower. The\\nmunicipal treasure was stored here in the long\\nago and the tower was also used as a govern-\\nmental prison it is said to have contained a\\ntorture chamber. Some authors state that this\\ntower was a light-house in the time of the Ro-\\nmans, but it is more commonly believed to have\\nformed a part of the fortifications that sur-\\nrounded Lucerne ia the thirteenth century.\\nThe other old bridge, called the Spreuer or\\n3Iuehlenhruecke, is a century younger than the\\nfilrst one. This also has paintings in the roof,\\nold and dim but more decipherable than those\\nfirst described. This series was painted in the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "256 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsixteenth century by Casper Meglinger,and rep-\\nresents the Dance of Death.\\nHow this old town has changed since first\\nthese bridges spanned the rapid river. How the\\nLucerners themselves have changed in custom,\\nin attire, in deed and in thought. Fancy the\\nstern, almost savage citizen of the Middle Ages,\\nstalking across here in his coat of mail, armed\\nwith battle-ax or two handed sword; or possibly\\nastride his war charger also in armor, with spurs\\njangling and accoutrements clashing. No pro-\\nvision w^as made for the passage of a carriage,\\nand great, no doubt, would have been his amaze-\\nment had such a conveyance been even suggested\\nto him. But they are all gone, though the\\nbridges remain, still echoing to the tread of\\nbusy feet as in centuries past.\\nEvery means for the enjoyment and enter-\\ntainment of visitors seems to have b(-en supplied\\nby nature and skill in this region. A landscape\\nof infinite variety, mountain, forest, vale, meadow,,\\nlake and stream, a bracing yet genial atmos-\\nphere, sun and shade in pleasing contrast, lovely\\ndrives and devious foot-paths leading through\\nbosky dells and leafy glens at every hand while\\ntrain, steamer, gondola and skiff glide back and\\nforth, ready to convey to greater distances,\\nthrough scenes of equal beauty.\\nShould skies prove unkind or should, at\\ntimes, even the worship of lovely natu)-e become\\ntoo great a strain, one may turn for change and\\nrecreation to the fine library and reading-room,\\nto the great museum, to the interesting churches,\\nto the vast cathedral with its daily sacred con-\\ncert, to the many theaters, exhibitions and so\\nforth, or to the mediseval remnants of another\\nday and generation.\\nA singular feature in the landscape at Lu-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 257\\ncerne, is the Musegg, an irregular line of graj-\\nramparts on the heights above the town, v/here\\nnine old watch towers rise up at intervals, their\\nantique architecture and the uncertainty hang-\\ning over their exact origin and purpose, combin-\\ning to invest all with a peculiar, romantic\\ninterest.\\nOn an eminence to the west of the city, above\\nthe dwellings dotting the slope and the woods\\nin the background, may be seen a commodious\\nedifice with a slender and elegant turret. This\\nis the famous Goetsch, whereon is a summer\\nhotel and pleasure-garden. One reaches this\\npoint easiest by a miniature funicular railway,\\nfive hundred and ninety-one feet long, of which\\nthe motive power is water, The gradient is\\nfifty-three yards in one hundred.\\nAlthough the Goetsch is only a hill in this\\nland of mountains, yet it commands a surpris-\\ningly fine view of the picturesque city on the\\nReuss at its feet, and of the lake as far back as\\nthe huge bulk of the Rigi and of the Burgen-\\nstock; above which the Alps of the Unterwalden,\\nwith the snowy dome of mighty Titlis conspicu-\\nously visible, pierce the southern sky. A skil-\\nful arrangement of great mirrors in the large\\nreception salon of the Goetsch, overlooking the\\nview, duplicates the wonderful prospect with a\\nbewildering effect of vastness.\\nWith such a wealth of material on every side,\\nfrom which one must cull but a few specimens\\nto represent the magnificent whole, one becomes\\nconfused in trying to make a, in any \u00e2\u0096\u00a0v^ise, sat-\\nisfactory selection, wavering here and there be-\\ntween this point and that, and possibly at last\\nleaves unnoted some most characteristic feature\\nor scene.\\nFain would I dwell on the historic interest", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "258 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nand esthetic details of the great Hof-Kirche, on\\nthe imposing architecture of the Post and Tele-\\ngraph Office, the impressive style of the Kur-\\nhaus, or the graceful ovitlines of the Government\\nBuilding, the Museum, the Town Hall and so\\nforth, and above all, on their harmonious rela-\\ntion to each other and to their environment in\\ngeneral; but all these triumphs of the builder s\\nart, while adding as they do to the diversified\\ncharm of this entrancing spot, are yet so cast\\ninto insignificance by the grandeur and beauty\\nof their natural setting, that one passes them\\nwith a cursory glance as the eyes rove onward\\nfrom the fair fields and forests sloping upward\\nfrom the gleaming waters, to the majestic\\nmasses of emerald declivity or somber crag or\\nsnowy peak, shouldering against the blue em-\\npyrean.\\nAmong all these beauties there are a few of\\nspecial, local interest, which one should not fail\\nto visit; one of these is the romantic nook con-\\ntaining the famous Lion of Lucerne.\\nThis moniiment sculptured by Ahorn in 1821,\\nfrom the solid rock, after a model by Thorwald-\\nsen, which model, by the way, is to be seen in\\na little curio-shop across the road, commemo-\\nrates the desperate struggle of the Swiss guards\\nbefore the Tuileries, under the onslaught of the\\nJacobins, August 10, 1792. After a most heroic\\nresistance, two battalions were overpowered by\\nthe revolutionists, and on the second and third\\nof September, the remainder also fell at their\\npost.\\nA winding way leads on through wide cheerful\\nstreets and leafy avenues, up a gentle ascent to\\na secluded dell where, in the shade of noble\\ntrees, behind a miniature sheet of water, rises a\\nperpendicular rock sixty feet in height. In", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 259\\nthe midst of a great recess hollowed out from\\nthese granite walls, prone upon a shield and\\nspear and battle-axe, lies a wounded lion of gi-\\ngantic proportions, defending even in death the\\ncharge intrusted to him. Graven above, is the\\nbrief legend: \u00e2\u0080\u00a2Helvetiornm fldei ac vit^tute,\\nand below, the names of the officers with the\\ndate of the tragic event. There is a dignity\\nand repose about this majestic composition, that\\nseems to proclaim the ineffable though intan-\\ngible recompense of brave deeds nobly done,\\neven unto death.\\nWith a gravity engendered by the contempla-\\ntion of this artistic memorial with its multitu-\\ndinous suggestions as to man s mighty possibili-\\nties in his highest exaltation of moral and physi-\\ncal courage, one turns to follow the little path\\nthat goes meandering on.\\nAlmost at once, one s reflections are trans-\\nferred from the achievements of art and the\\npowers of man, to the mysteries of the universe;\\nfor within a few yards one comes upon an unique\\nspectacle called The Glacier Garden. Here\\nis a very interesting natural phenomenon con-\\nsisting of nine pot-holes, so named, of an\\nancient glacier. They were discovered by acci-\\ndent in 1872, when excavating for the founda-\\ntions of a building. The largest of these holes\\nis twenty-six feet in diameter and thirty-one\\nfeet deep. They are supposed to have been hol-\\nlowed out in pre-historic times, by the action of\\nthe glacier then extending through this district.\\nThe water that found its way through the fis-\\nsures of the ice, imparted a rotary motion to the\\nstones also finding their way down through the\\ncrevices, and in course of time these stones,\\ngrinding around upon the rock beneath, formed\\nthese circular pot-holes, in which the stones", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "260 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwere left as the glacier receded. There are\\nmany wonderful objects, natural and manufac-\\ntured, in this garden, but this exposition of the\\nstupendous forces of nature, silent, slow, but\\nirresistible, working away from the dim ages of\\nthe past, is most curious and remarkable.\\nThe summer evening was well advanced when\\nI left this interesting spot and retraced my steps\\nover the pleasant route along which I had come.\\nThe streets lay picturesque and peaceful in\\nthe luminous twilight, the way growing brighter\\nand more brilliant as I neared the broad quay,\\nwhere the electric lights were flashiHg and quiv-\\nering through the tremulous foliage of the\\nstately chesnuts rustling in the cool, lake breeze.\\nFrom out the elegant gardens of the splendid\\nhostelries, fair with perfumed leaf and vivid\\nblossom, rolled forth most witching strains of\\njocund melody, while on the quay joyous groups,\\nassembled from every clime, kept step in con-\\ncord with the pulsing cadences.\\nBeyond the low parapet, the lake was rippling\\nand sparkling in the rays of the mellow moon\\nriding afar in the illimitable sky; the snow-\\ncapped peaks were gleaming on high in a beauty\\nof heavenly purity, while, dotted with glittering\\npoints from cotter s candle or luxury s lamp, the\\nshadows lay heavy on the hillsides below.\\nGay gondolas were gliding hither and yon,\\ntheir colored lanterns making stars of fire, that\\nglowed again from the bosom of the waters.\\nMy path lay onward across the handsome\\nSeehruecke, down along the riverside, beneath\\nwhispering trees and past plashing fountains,\\nto a quiet inn, from the windows of which, as I\\nsank to slumber, my eyes looked out upon the\\nrugged bulk of grim Pilatus standing stern sen-\\ntinel immovable forever, above the magic beauty\\nand bewildering; charm of lake-laved Lucerne.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXX.\\nChief among the many delightful excursions\\npossible from the romantic city of Lucerne, is,\\nperhaps, a tour of the lovely sheet of water com-\\nmonly known as Lake Lucerne, otherwise the\\nLake of Four Cantons, or the Vierwaldstaet-\\nter See.\\nIndissolubly associated with this vicinity and\\nrecalled at once by its name, is the history, tra-\\nditional or otherwise, of William Tell, whose\\nheroic deeds gleam forth so brilliantly from this\\nmarvelous setting, in the radiance of Schiller s\\nimmortal genius.\\nIt was a charming day in mid-summer that I\\nstepped aboard the elegant little steamer that\\ndaily makes the round of this grandly picturesque\\nlake, and settled myself for a period of uninter-\\nrupted inspection of this renowned treasure-\\nhouse of natural beauties.\\nThe attractive little vessel was filled with a\\nhappy, animated throng, and accents of diverse\\nnationalities fell upon the ear as we steamed\\naway from the wide quay.\\nAt the very outset one is entranced by the\\naspect of the little harbor itself, with its gardens,\\nits villas and its ancient towers lying back on,\\nand rising from the verdant slopes, and climb-\\ning the steeper sides of the great hills and\\npromontories that intervene between the bery-\\nline waters of the broad bay and the huge\\nmountains in the farther distance.\\nAs we glide out into the lake, the view continu-\\nally changes and, as one grand and dazzling peak", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "262 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nfalls back or presents to us a new angle of ob-\\nservation, we get glimpses of other still more\\nstupendous elevations while across the gleam-\\ning tide, transiently visible above a depression\\nin the high outline of the nearer crags, the\\nmonarcLs of the Bernese Oberland, Lauterhorn,\\nWetterhorn, Schreckerhorn and the peerless\\nJungfrau etched sharply above in icy splendor,\\nmove for a brief moment into our field of vision.\\nThe small isle of Alstad with tiny chalet\\npeeping forth from shades of living green, lies\\nalmost in our path as we round the Meggerhorn\\nand enter the Kreuzrichter where we find our-\\nselves in the spacious expanse formed by the\\nmeeting of the lake s four great arms; each of\\nwhich, having its own fair quota of matchless\\nlandscape, reaches ofi^ in the distance. Kuss-\\nnacht to the north to where the narrow, wooded\\nisthmus divides from Lake Zug; Alpnacht to the\\nsouth flowing on past the base of gigantic Pila-\\ntus behind us to the west, the shining stretch\\nover which we have come; while eastward,\\nWeggis spreads out before us until some slight\\nchange in our direction, brings us abreast of a\\nrange of mighty precipices that seem to bar our\\nprogress completely. But the little boat is un-\\ndismayed and skilfully feels its way along the\\nthreatening shores, and lo a silvery channel\\nopens out again and we wind on amid untel able\\ndelights.\\nThe area of Lake Lucerne is about forty-four\\nsquare miles its surface is fourteen hundred and\\nthirty-two feet above sea-level its greatest\\nlength, from Lucerne to Fluelen, twenty-three\\nand one half miles and greatest width a little\\nmore than two and one half.\\nWhile partial freezing has taken place at ir-\\nregular intervals, the congealing of its entire", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 263\\nexpanse is unrecorded either by history or tra-\\ndition. The banks of the lake display a re-\\nmarkable diversity of character. Some anony-\\nmous writer has said: Here the boundary is the\\nbroad end of an Alpine valley yonder it is a\\nsteep precipice rising from the very margin of\\nthe waters elsewhere it is an expanse of grassy\\nmeadow-]and affording pasturage to numerous\\nherds of sleek cattle, and planted with row upon\\nrow of thriving fruit-trees. At the point where\\nthe larger valleys open, the eye penetrates to the\\nmountain heights some of which are carpeted\\nwith rich pastures and dotted with chalets,\\nwhile others appear rocky and barren, and yet\\nothers loftiest of all, display their spotless ves-\\nture of eternal snow.\\nBut it matters not what phase of prospect is\\npresented; for whether bounded by mighty\\nbluffs and cragged cliffs close at hand, or stretch-\\ning back into the woodland shades and smiling\\nloveliness of pastoral scenes, or rising aloft in\\ndizzy heights of unapproachable grandeur, it\\nentrances the imagination and dominates the\\nsoul by alternating sublimity and romance,\\nmagnificence and unutterable charm.\\nAll along, sheltered from rough winds, em-\\nbowered in groves and vines, and almost within\\nstone s throw of one another, nestle quaint lit-\\ntle villages, picturesque and cheerful while\\nscattered everyw^here from the water s edge to\\ndizzying heights, rise villas, cottages, pensions,\\nrestaurants, hotels and so forth, in often appar-\\nently inaccessible locations.\\nAnd now we go on under the shadow of the\\nhuge Eigi and its mighty neighbors standing to-\\ngether in everlasting majesty. A bright ray of\\nsunshine picks out and glows back from a lofty\\ncrag of vivid red, that towers far above the;", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "264 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsmall village of Vitznau charmingly set out\\nagainst a background of somber green.\\nAs in a dream of delight we go on and on and\\non. Again the waters narrow before us as we\\napproach two great precipices which leave us no\\nvisible means of egress but another dextrous\\nshift of our wise little vessel, and we pass be-\\ntween the opposing promontories called Die\\nJSfasen, (The Noses,) which are separated here\\nby a distance of less than a thousand yards.\\nAfter this we reach Gersau with its bulky\\nmountain rearing its proud crest above, and\\nmake our way out again from the little port so\\nshut in by rocky walls, past the romantic chapel\\nKlindlmord, that has for uncounted years lifted\\nits quaint turret here to the chaQgeful sky.\\nAnd now so stupendous a spectacle bursts\\nupon the vision, that the average mind sinks\\ndown aghast, realizing that nothing but the\\nsublimity of genius should venture to portray\\nthe sublimity of nature. Here in one mighty\\npanorama, opens one of the grandest of Alpine\\nlandscapes, disclosing the wondrous eminences\\nof the Schwytz, with the frightful steeps and\\nnaked summit of the Mythen towering in the\\nbackground. Here as before, on every hand\\nrise wooded height and rugged rock, with cot and\\nvilla, chalet and 2^^^sion, dotted all abroad on\\nshady slope or sunny elevation, until far above,\\nimposing pinnacles and frowning crags loom in-\\naccessible and over all and pervading all with\\nits mingled charm of sun and sea and sky and\\nshore, the radiant, indefinable atmosphere of\\nsummer Switzerland.\\nEach picture presenting itself as our craft\\nturns and winds through the sea-green waves,\\n;seems fairer, grander, more sublime than aught\\nbefore. The soul aches with a pervading pain\\nof dumb and awful admiration.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN ^\\\\ANDEJRING 265\\nNow we round a seemingly impassable barrier\\nand turn into a quiet little harbor where a curv-\\ning pier stretches out into the still waters. There\\nis no village here in view, only an antique and\\nvenerable inn call the Trieb, whose high-peaked\\nroof, projecting stories and exterior decorations\\nare all along the lines of the wonderful timber\\narchitecture of central G-ermany, This old edi-\\nfice is largely identified with the actual and\\nlegendary history of these shores. It rests\\npartly on piers in the lake, and partly on the\\nsolid rock of the bank, and stands embosomed\\nin forest trees and decked with velvet moss, un-\\nder the overhanging bastions of the eternal\\nhills the soft, natural grays of its roof and\\nwalls, blending harmoniously into the dull\\ngreens and browns of its umbrageous nest.\\nAround the next headland not far from here,\\nwe note a pyramidal rock rising abruptly from\\nthe lake; divided but by an exceedingly narrow\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0channel from the perpendicular clilf behind. Of\\na whitish tint, it stands out distinctly above\\nthe heaving waves and presents to the beholder\\nits unchanging face, upon which is graven an\\ninscription in honor of Schiller, A fitting mon-\\nument, in its immutability amid the billowy\\nwaters foaming about its everlasting base, to the\\nrgreat poet whose undying verse has so perpetu-\\nated the glories of Switzerland and her band of\\nheroes.\\nStill passing from one romantic and interest-\\ning point to another, still crossing and re-cross-\\ning the crystal sea as one or another of the tiny\\nvillages presents itself on either side, we reach\\nBrunnen situated in the midst of verdure, with\\npretty promenades and public grounds, and con-\\nsecrated by its souvenirs of the Eise of the\\nSwiss Confederation; and now we enter upon", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "266 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nthe last branch of the lake, a beautiful basin\\nshut in by rocky banks and stupendous moun-\\ntains.\\nOn the right, high above, stretched beneath\\nthe walls of still loftier overhanging crags, lies\\nthe Ruetli, a steep meadow surrounded by\\nstately trees. This is the most sacred spot in\\nSwitzerland and celebrated in song and story,\\nfor here on November seventh, 1307, Fuerst of\\nUri, Stauffacher of Schwytz and Anderhalden of\\nUnterwald, each backed by a few devoted adher-\\nents, formed a league in the name of their can-\\ntons, against the despotic rule of Austria. Schil-\\nler makes thrilling use of the dramatic elements\\nof this episode in his great work. The Ruetli is\\nregarded as a national place of pilgrimage and\\nevery year is visited by processions of schools\\nand societies of all descriptions. Peaceful and\\nsecluded it looks, far above our heads, accessi-\\nbly only by a rocky pathway through the\\ntangled groves.\\nThe view from this point onward seems to in-\\ncrease, if possible, in beauty and grandeur. On\\nthe left appear the granite heights of Ober-and\\nNieder-Bauenstock, and yet these are almost\\ndwarfed by the imposing immensity of massive\\nUrirothstock rising like some vast citadel from\\nthe lake below to the clouds above, where its\\nsnowy summit towers impregnable. Still we\\nmake our way over the clear waters that reflect\\nso vividly the picturesque hamlets and blooming\\nterraces coming into view wherever the stony\\nwalls recede enough to grant a few acres of foot-\\nhold. We leave Sisikon and Bauen and Isleton\\nbehind us, reaching Tellsplatte, the spot where\\nTell is said to have escaped from the tyrant s\\nboat. The chapel bearing Tell s name stands\\nclose to the water s edge and is visited every", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 267\\nyear by the country people in solemn proces-\\nsional. How the present vanishes and the\\nintervening centuries roll away from one s con-\\nsciousness, as one gazes upon the diminutive\\ntemple with its unpretending walls and modest\\nspire hidden from view by rocks and twining\\nshrubbery, except at the water-front, from which\\nits few steps ascend immediately into the plain\\nlittle portico. Above rises magnificent Axen-\\nfluh flanked by sky-piercing Urirothstock, while\\nstraight before us, the pyramid of jagged Bris-\\ntenstock lifts up its lofty brow. Beautiful Seel-\\nisbeig and mighty Fronalpstock greet us anew\\nfrom the other side, looking down from the re-\\nmoter distance while all about and everywhere\\nare new vistas of enchantment, until at last we\\nreach Fluelen where the boat pauses for an hour\\nor so before starting on its homeward journey.\\nThere is a wonderful carriage-road, wide and\\nhard, from Weggis to Fluelen, which is thought\\nby many to surpass in variety and grandeur of\\nnatural scenery, any other highway in the\\nworld. Lying along the lake and following its\\nchangeful and meandering contour, it winds on,\\nnow skirting sunny meadows, now penetrating\\nleafy shades or rounding giddy precipices, now\\ndrilled in archways through solid rock. It is\\ndivided into four sections, the first of which\\nstretches along through a delightful series of\\ngreen pastures, beautiful groves and charming\\nlake aspects the second and third are more ro-\\nmantic, commanding the banks of the Weggis\\nand Brunnen basins, and presenting witching\\nglimpses of the Rigi, the Urmiberg,the Mythen,\\nthe Seelisberg and many others while the last\\nsection is the celebrated Axenstrasse, leading\\nalong the east shore from Brunnen to Fluelen,\\nand forming a part of a system of mountain", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "268 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nhighways constructed by the Swisfe government\\nmany years ago.\\nThe St. Gothard railway is also visible at\\ntimes along these shores but disappears into the\\ndepths of every huge hill. All along here,\\npicturesqueness again rises to grandeur and\\nbeauty to sublimity, and once more words fail\\nto convey an idea of the ravishing scene. The\\nlimpid lake with its emerald tinge the varying\\ngreen of groves and gardens fair in the distance\\nrocks strangely grotesque rising far above;\\ndimly lighted tunnels with openings here and\\nthere through which renewed glimpses are\\ncaught of mountain and lake and wonderful\\nviews of the distant Alps while every place is\\nreplete with souvenirs of the ancient heroes of\\nSwitzerland.\\nFrom Fluelen one may return to Lucerne by\\nrailway, if preferring a change of route. Of this\\nprivilege I now availed myself, plunging into\\nfresh beauties as well as looking on former ones\\nfrom another equally bewildering point of view.\\nSnowy summits, awful abysses, emerald\\nslopes, ragged rocks, sparkling waters, luxuriant\\nmeadows, barren crags, fertile valleys, gay\\nwatering-places, w^oodland heights, handsome\\nstations, trim terraces, picturesque chalets, cosy\\nfarm houses, elegant villas, vi^onderful bridges\\nand inky tunnels are all whirled about through\\nmy mind in inextricable confusion, as I step\\nfrom the train and seek the seclusion of my\\nmodest inn.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXI.\\nTo the ascending of mountains by railway in\\nthis era of marvelous engineering and enterprise,\\nthere is no end but it is not so very long ago,\\nin fact I believe but forty years, since the\\nsystem that has made this variety of excursion\\nfeasible and safe, was provided to the world.\\nTo the United States, records say, belongs the\\nhonor of having given birth to the man whose\\npeculiar genius evolved from his inner con-\\nsciousness, this unique method that has\\nproved so adaptable in scaling tremendous\\nheights-\\nIt was in 1858 that Sylvester Marsh, of Little-\\nton, New Hampshire, received a charter to\\npractically apply his ingenious mechanism to the\\nascent of Mount Washington. That road was\\nfinished in 1869, that of the Rigi in 1871, and\\nsince then their name is legion both in our own\\ncountry and abroad.\\nThough both in America and in the old\\nworld, there are peaks more lofty and mountains\\nmore s upendous than the Rigi yet this has a\\ndistinctive charm in its wonderful situation be-\\ntween three lakes, rising abruptly from their\\nvery margins, and the incomparable scenery, of\\nwhich its own magnificent loveliness is but a\\nfragmentary portion; and it has the additioDal\\nadvantage of being accessible from either side,\\nso that the necessity of doubling back to any\\ngreat extent upon one s route is avoided, and in\\none trip is combined a surprising variety of out-\\nlook.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "270 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThere are a number of footways up the Rigi;\\nfrom every steamboat handing as well as from\\nevery St. Gotharcl railway station in the\\nvicinity, is a well-defined path, each of which is\\nthronged with hardy and ambitious pedestrians\\npressing onward to the heights above. There\\nare also three railway routes, of which the\\nVitznau-Rigi is the oldest and perhaps the most\\ncomprehensive.\\nThe skies were fair and the waters sparkling\\nas we left Lucerne on the small vessel that plies\\nbetween that city and Vitznau,\\nAfter a rvm of less than an hour we arrived,\\nand disembarking, crossed the picture-like little\\nPlatz to the railway station. Here we found\\nour observation car arranged with nicely tilted\\nseats inclined in just the requisite degree to\\nkeep us on a level up the great slope, and our\\nungainly locomotive, ponderous and panting, all\\nready to begin the powerful push that was to\\nsend us steadily on our way heavenward for\\nthousands of feet. As is customary in such as-\\ncents, but one car was given to each engine.\\nContrary to our previous mountain experience,\\nwe find every pound of luggage must be weighed\\nand paid for. And I may mention here that a\\nlady traveling alone in Switzerland is at much\\ndisadvantage regarding her hand-luggage, for\\nporters are not allowed, even by paying a gate\\nfee, to enter the trains, and, the carriages being\\nset up on high wheels and en ered from the end\\nplatforms, like ours in America, it is impossible\\nfor her to avoid lifting and handling her m-\\npedimeiita herself. She must either receive her\\nproperty from the porter at the outer steps and\\nlug it into the ear, or else through the window\\nfrom the inside and in either case must heave\\nthem herself up into the high receptacles over-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 271\\nhead, as the cars are too small and the available\\nspace too contracted to admit of their being\\nplaced elsewhere. Many foreigners, noting the\\ndifference between Swiss cars and the ordinary\\ncontinental carriage, fancy that the former are\\nlike American cars they do resemble the latter\\nsomewhat on the outside, being entered from the\\nends and set up on high trucks, though they\\nlack utterly the finish of our railway coaches\\nl)Ut the Swiss car is much smaller than ours,\\nand the interior is very different. True the\\npassage runs lengthwise instead of across the\\ncarriage, but it is veiy narrow and, instead of\\nrunning through the middle and dividing the\\ncar in halves, it is nearer one side than the\\nother, leaving on the one hand, space for a row\\nof small, single seats, and on the other, a row of\\ndouble ones and, while the carriage is not\\ndivided off into closed compartments, it is\\ndivided by breast high partitions between each\\nset of opposing seats, though there are no doors\\nwithin the whole arrangement is close and in-\\nconvenient, though a vast improvement on the\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0compulsory confinement system in other parts\\nof Europe.\\nThe car that we enter to-day, however,\\nspecially adapted to mountain travel, is exactly\\nlike a large, open street-car, with three excep-\\ntions first, its up-tiltedness second, gates\\nat the two ends of every two opposite rows of\\nseats or benches that run quite across the car\\nfrom side to side and third, a small compart-\\nment in the rear, wherein our luggage, reduced\\nto the smallest possible compass, is stowed away.\\nWe are an anim ited and expectant party from\\nalmost all quarters of the globe; diverse and\\npolyglot are the accents that greet the ear. Let\\nnot my lone sister be dismayed; she will", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "272 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nprobably hear her native tongue; if not she has\\nonly to show her ticket and point to her luggage,\\nand a railway porter will take her in charge\\nwith safety. But lest she may picture in her\\nmind s eye something akin to the trim-uni-\\nformed train men of our lines, I will say that\\nthe continental porter wears the unmistakable\\ngarb of a laboring man, and either upon his\\ncap or upon a chain about his neck, he bears a\\nhuge metal number, which it is well to take\\ncognizance of, for future recollection in case\\nanything goes wrong. However, they are usually\\nvery civil and anxious to please; the fee must\\nbe paid by the traveler as, though the porters\\nare licensed they are not recompensed by the\\nrailway.\\nIn our motley throng, cycling costumes\\nmainly more serviceable than elegant prevail,\\nthough no wheels are in evidence; several tour-\\nists are supplied with sturdy but unmanageable\\nalpenstocks, that stick out in all directions and\\nget into everybody s way.\\nWe are soon in motion, beginning to ascend\\nalmost from the very verge of the waters, and\\nat once leaving behind us the charming village\\nlying so snugly in its cosy nooks and angles\\nagainst the mountain side.\\nRushing upward through chesnut groves, we\\ndash into a murky tunnel, then over a wildly\\nromantic bridge of skilful but terrifying con-\\nstruction, and pause for a moment at Freibergen^\\nStation, thirty-three hundred feet above sea\\nlevel. From this point on, the scene is all one\\nbewildering vision of beauty unutterable. The\\nlake drops away from us like a falling mirror\\ngazing downward at our left, we see its glitter-\\ning surface sinking lower and lower, as we\\nmount the dizzy elevations between which and", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 273\\nthe shining depths below, nothing whatever is\\nvisible to indicate that we are otherwise than\\npoised without support in this realm of light\\nand radiance through which we are speeding.\\nA. glance toward our right scarcely reassures\\nus, for here close at hand, less than an arm s\\nlength from the side of the car, impregnable\\nbattlements of everlasting rock tower straight\\nupward, iipon the perpendicular surfaces of\\nwhich, no slightest foot-hold or hand-clutch were\\npossible even in the direst emergency. But the\\nincomparable grandeur and splendor of our po-\\nsition serves to engulf all thoughts of mortal\\nrisk, and we breathe into our very souls a spirit\\nof magic enchantment.\\nNow the outlook changes mountains begin\\nto show their crests around within our range of\\nview we swerve away from the dizzy verge as\\nthe crowding crags fall back, while our eyes,\\nbut this moment gazing abroad into apparently\\nillimitable space, now rest on emerald slope and\\nwide plateau, with terrace on terrace of vivid\\nbloom and verdure reaching back to the confines\\nof a park-like forest. Here is situated the far-\\nfamed sanitarium of Eigi-Kaltbad, adjacent to\\nwhich are some of the loveliest views from the\\nRigi. At this point another mountain-route\\nmeets our line and some of our passengers leave\\nus, disappearing round the curves that lead to\\nthe great hotels in that direction. We who re-\\nmain, continue in our upward course through\\nrocky cuttings, over frightful trestles round\\ngiddy precipices, through bosky shades, up and\\nup and ever up, until after an interval, as we\\ncome to the fine Hotel Staffel, there all at once\\nopens before us the immense prospect of the\\nwondrous hill-country of northeast Switzerland,\\nlovely, magnificent, infinite.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "274 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nStill onward, higher and higher, toward the\\nsummit far above while advancing, receding,\\never changing but ever entrancing, appear and\\nvanish the contrasting beauties of the marvelous\\noutlook.\\nVista after vista opens out, falls back and\\nfades beneath us, until at last we find ourselves\\nat the summit, where, a little below the rounded\\ngrassy top, stands the imposing Hotel Eigi-Kulm.\\nNow verily do the limitations of language\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2press sore upon us as we look abroad on the\\noverpowering grandeur of the prospect. What\\nwords indeed can depict with justice, a land-\\nscape more than two hundred miles in diameter?\\nHere the undulating, ever varied hill-country\\ntoward the north yonder the Black Forest and\\nthe Vosges Mountains stretching onward in the\\nimiddle ground, lake after lake in limpid loveli-\\nmes-s reflecting back fair heaven and wooded\\nbeight while far away to the southward, glit-\\ntering in snowy splendor, sublime and unsullied\\nats in creation s dawn, rises range after range\\n\u00c2\u00a9f towering pinnacles, silent, majestic, immov-\\nable save by the same almighty force that placed\\nthem there in awful magnitude, eternal, rock-\\nribbed and ancient as the sun.\\nRiver courses wind beneath us, and meander-\\ning roads, like lengths of ribbon as they wander\\naway; fair meadow-lands stretch onward and\\nwhite towns and villages shine forth from leafy\\nrecesses; while on the Rigi itself and forming a\\npart of its mighty bulk, are rock and ridge,\\ndeclivity and dale, fertile plain and barren crag,\\nbowery dell, gleaming cascade, mountain rill,\\nrich pastures and picturesque structures, all en-\\nveloped in one bewitching haze of ineflPable love-\\nliness.\\nIt is impossible to drink one s fill of the glor-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 275\\nious scene, and we turn aside exhausted yet un-\\nsatisfied. But as our eyes drop from all this\\nsplendor of natural beauty and fall at last to\\nthings at hand and lying literally at our feet,\\nwe begin to note what a diversified little world\\nit is here immediately about us, on the small,\\nirregular plateau.\\nFirst and foremost is the great hotel with its\\nspacious verandas, glittering windows and wide\\ncorridors. A little removed from this are two\\nor three other roomy edifices for accommodating\\nthe overflow in the busy season. Around a\\nlittle bluff where the path turns to reach the\\nextreme summit, stands a Post-Office, diminu-\\ntive indeed but complete in all modern require-\\nments, including telegraph, telephone and sup-\\nplies of stationery and picture postal-cards.\\nJust below the hotel and reached by a long flight\\nof steps, is the neat little station of the railway\\nterminus.\\nFollowing the path to the upper plateau, we\\nsuddenly find ourselves in the midst of a minia-\\nture, open-air bazar, for a dozen or more knick-\\nnack venders have taken up their stand under\\nspreading, cream-colored umbrellas, for there\\nare no trees at this height, which shelter them-\\nselves and their collections. Here trinkets of all\\ndescriptions pertaining to the Alpine region, are\\nto be found at not exorbitant prices, pictures,\\ncurios, geological and floral specimens and so\\nforth, while interested purchasers are gathered\\nabout in shifting groups.\\nFor the first time the widely famed Edelweiss\\ncomes under our observation, being offered for\\nsale in profusion with Alpine roses, so called.\\nThere is no chaffering and the dealers are re-\\nspectful and quiet.\\nMen, women and children of confusingly di-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "276 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nverse sorts and conditions, wander hither and\\nyon, or stand entranced, rapt in the glorious\\nprospect abroad.\\nA group of Alpine singers, male and female,\\nin picturesque, peasant costumes, have made the\\nascent on foot from some one of the neighboring\\nhamlets, and are now refreshing themselves\\nwith beer and black bread in the clear sunshine,\\noccasionally bursting into fragments of song, or\\nthe melodious, far reaching jodel of the Swiss\\nmountaineer.\\nAll this busy exhibition of life on a small\\nscale, seems so very strange up here on the\\nopen mountain-top, under the near, blue sky\\namid the grandeur of the Alps, and brings us\\ndown at once from the boundless realms of imag-\\nination and of infinite space, to human associa-\\ntions and human interests. And so, inspecting\\nthe curious wares and motley groups, we while\\naway a little time before withdrawing into the\\nhuge caravansary for food and repose.\\nOne does not find such unvarying exorbitant\\ncharges throughout the country at places of re-\\nsort in Europe, as we have at home.\\nTrue, one can spend any amount of money if\\none feels no special limitation, but there is at\\nthe same time, at all these resorts a scale of\\nprices suited to travelers of moderate means, pro-\\nviding sufficient and satisfactory service and\\nentertainment at comparatively small outlay.\\nOur foreign brothers seem to recognize the fact\\nthat every one, even among travelers, is not a\\nCroesus, and to look out for the accommodation\\nof such, also. I must confess, however, if they\\nknow that one is an American, it is very hard\\nfor them to realize that one is not necessarily, a\\nmillionaire, so ingrained is it into the con-\\nsciousness of other peoples, that all Americans\\nare rich.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 277\\nIn descending the Rigi, we followed the Arth-\\nGoldau route, which branches off from the Rigi-\\nKulm section at Eigi-Staffel, a short distance\\nbelow.\\nAnother panorama of indescribable grandeur\\nand not less impressive and imposing than that\\nseen from the other side, is spread out before us\\nas we gradually go down through magnificent\\nAlpine pastures and shadowy fir groves, to our\\nfirst halting-place below the junction. This is\\nthe Rigi-Klosterli, the most sheltered place on\\nthe mountain. Here are two grand hotels, sev-\\neral less pretentious inns and a picturesque old\\npilgrimage-chapel also a Capuchin hospice, a\\nsomewhat peculiar institution, being a sort of\\nconventual hostelry devoted to the entertain-\\nment of travelers. We are told that this point\\nis most popular with persons desiring to make a\\nprolonged stay upon the mountain.\\nOff again and down, down through scenery of\\nwildly romantic character, from the midst of\\nwhich we command an extensive view of the\\nSchwytz and the Eastern Alps.\\nNow we hug the rocky side of a deep ravine,\\nthe abysmal depths of which our vision cannot\\nXJenetrate; now we cross marvelous bridges and\\nhorrifying trestles and plunge into long tunnels,\\nstill winding ever down and down and down.\\nBy degrees the landscape loses its expansive\\nsweep; we begin to be. shut in again by the\\nnearer hills, and the pleasant valley of the Arth\\nbecomes prominent as, studded with fertile\\nfarms, flourishing fruit-trees and rustic dwell-\\nings, it stretches beyond the important station\\nof Goldau, where the mountain railway termi-\\nnates on this side.\\nOne might remain weeks upon the Rigi with-\\nout exhausting its countless resources and as-\\ntonishing variety of land and water scapes.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "278 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe Rigi-Kulm, five thousand, nine hundred\\nand five feet above the sea, is the highest point.\\nThe Rigi-Scheidegg for all these various points\\nare but different pinnacles of the one vast moun-\\ntain, is five thousand, four hundred and six\\nfeet in elevation. At this spot is a view-tower,\\none hundred feet high, where one might pass\\nhours observing the magnificent prospect and\\npaying one s tribute to the majesty of the\\nuniverse. Here too is an Alpine-Garden, or\\nexperiment station, where trials are made in\\nthe cultivation of Alpine fodder-plants and\\nforest trees.\\nThe Rigi-Hochfluh is five thousand, five hun-\\ndred and eighty-four feet high. This is the\\nmost southern summit of the mountain and is\\nperhaps the most fantastic in character. This\\nascent, M-hich can only be made on foot, leads\\npast grotesque formations and through a fir\\nforest, up a steep and stony defile, where only\\nby an iron ladder fixed into the solid rock, can\\none mount to the bold and barren summit.\\nOne feature through all this region, especially\\nstriking to an American coming from a land\\nwhose mountains are sparsely settled, if at all,\\nand where an air of bleak desolation pervades\\nthe upper heights, is the number and contiguity\\nof villages, hamlets, chalets, villas and farm-\\nhouses everywhere visible in all directions, high\\nand low, over the mountains so that the sweet,\\nfamiliar sounds of rural domestic life, the\\nlaugh of children, the low of cattle, the bleat of\\nlambs, the shrill clarion of chanticleers, fall con-\\ntinually upon the ear, and all the peaceful avo-\\ncations of life are seen to go on amid a lofty en-\\nvironment unsurpassed in beauty and sublimity.\\nThe Rigi itself, though so rich in its infinite\\nvariety of scene, is yet but one of the countless", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 279\\nstately and mighty monarchs that lift their proud\\nand beautiful heads above the shining waters\\nat their feet. Gazing at them as a whole, they\\nform a circling chain of such matchless loveliness\\nand majesty so far beyond the flights of the\\nimagination, that the reverent spirit is inevit-\\nably lifted above the cloud-capped peaks,\\nbeyond the radiant atmosphere, up through\\nnature to nature s God.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXII.\\nWith comparatively but a glimpse and a taste\\nof the delights of Switzerland, I tore myself\\naway from the enrapturing locality of the Vier-\\nloaldstcetter See, taking the St. Gothard line at\\nGoldau.\\nThis is a very important railv^^ay junction and\\na bustling town, reminding me in a way of some\\nof the new cities of our far west, where a\\nlarge amount of business is transacted some-\\ntimes, before the necessary buildings and facil-\\nities for properly carrying it on, are much more\\nthan in embryo. Carpenters, masons, diggers\\nand hewers were at work all about, and we had\\nto step over and around many obstructions and\\nacross many unprotected tracks, a state of\\nthings very unusual abroad, in passing from\\none railway station to another.\\nGoldau is the place where, in 1806, a tremen-\\ndous landslip fell from off the Rossberg, burying\\nin its debris nearly iive hundred persons with all\\ntheir belongings.\\nAs our train moves off, our way lies through\\na wild confusion of rocky fragments and over-\\nturned strata, which have lain here ever since\\ntheir descent into the valley, all undisturbed ex-\\ncept so far as needful to construct the railways\\nnow lying through the area.\\nSome one has said that the St. Gothard raiU\\nway is the great international highway\\nbetween north and south, a commercial route\\ncomparable to the Suez Canal or the Straits\\n.of Gibralter. The impressionable traveler\\n280", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 281\\nwill not be content with only this point of\\nview, for it is also a highway of most remarka-\\nble and magnificent spectacles, both of natural\\nscenery and of engineering achievements.\\nMy way lies but a short distance over this\\nroute, but even in this brief stretch, dark tun-\\nnels and deep cuttings continually alternate with\\nopen reaches affording successive vistas of great\\nheights beyond, of mighty chasms spanned by\\nmarvelous trestles and bridges, and of all pos^^i-\\nble variations in prospect, from simple beauty\\njup to awful grandeur.\\nBetween Goldau and Walchwyl we find yel-\\nlow circulars distributed profusely about our\\njSeats. Taking one up I translate as follows\\nWARNING WARNING WARNING\\nThe Iron Columns of the in-construction-un-\\nrdertaken St, Andrienbridge between Walchwyl\\nand Goldau, come so near to the Wagons of the\\nthrough-riding Trains to stand, that by only\\nsome Forth-out-bowing of the Over-body out of\\nthe Wagon Windows upon the Lakeside, Dam-\\n.ages infallibly are. The Travelers become on\\nthat account, stringently therefore warned\\n.against themselves from so questionable Places\\nin anyhow-which-wise, lakewards to the Wagon\\nWindows forth-out-to-lean.\\nThe Direction of the Gothard-Road.\\nGlancing farther down I find the warning re-\\npeated in Italian, in French and finally in\\nEnglish, with a somewhat freer rendering than\\nmine given above. I wonder if every train in\\nevery direction has every seat in every compart-\\nment of every carriage, filled with these slips\\n.every day and if so, what the printer s bill of\\nthe Direction amounts to in the course of a\\n;few- centuries. However, it is kind of the di-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "282 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nrectors to strive to prevent us from forth-out-\\nbowing, and we all keep our Over- bodies\\nvery erect as we speed over the great bridge.\\nAs I am now bound for Zurich, I change lines\\nat Zug, a romantic looking town beautifully sit-\\nuated on its mountain-inclosed lake of the same\\nname, and known from its quaint towers and\\nancient fortifications as the Nuremburg of\\nSwitzerland. A long ridge of considerable el-\\nevation called the Zugerberg, is a noticeable\\nfeature of the place, affording an exceedingly\\nvaried and pleasant opportunity for excursions\\neither on foot or en voiture, as the French say.\\nBy the way, one never knows in this region,\\nwhether one will be accosted in French or in\\nGerman, which rather serves to keep the not\\nover-proficient linguist in a tenter-hooky con-\\ndition as he strives to have immediately availa-\\nble an assortment of pertinent phrases in both\\nlanguages. We have gone back to French\\nmoney also, to my great confusion, as I have for\\nso many weeks, in my struggle with marks and\\n2ofennige, put behind me all thoughts of francs\\nand centimes. The functionaries will take your\\nGerman gold and give you change in French\\nsilver but, as a rule, the silver and copper of\\nGermany are refused. Occasionally I find an\\namiable Dienstmann or porteur, you never\\nknow which he is going to style himself, who\\ndoes not object to German change, so I go about\\nwith two purses, one French, the other German,\\nand adapt the nationality, so to speak, of my\\ndisbursements to the requirements of him who\\nserves me.\\nOur train is crowded, for now is the height\\nof the season and this is a most popular route.\\nThe scenery is lovely and had we not just come\\nfrom the very heart of enchantment ineffable,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 283\\nthese cliffs and slopes were inexpressibly be-\\nwitching. We rush through some tremendous\\ntunnels, one in particular, of more than eighteen\\nthousand feet in length. As the carriages are\\nunlighted and we have no warning to close our\\nwindows, we find ourselves every now and then\\nsuddenly in the midst of inky darkness and sul-\\nphurous smoke that can find no outlet. Very\\nsoon Zurich s fair waters open out before us,\\nthe fine city lying upon the lake and the river\\nLimmat, and bounded on the west by the river\\nSihl.\\nTo properly appreciate this place, one should\\nsee it before Lucerne, otherwise Zurich suffers\\nin comparison. But it is a very beautiful and\\nparticularly interesting city, extremely ancient\\nin origin. It is at this point that so many relics\\nof the pre-historic Lake-Dwellers of Switzer-\\nland, and have been found; the Helmhaus, an\\nantiquarian museum, contains one of the finest\\ncollections extant, it is said, of the old pile\\nstructures excavated from the lake. But as\\nthere are traces of Roman occupation here, some\\nauthorities maintain that Zurich was founded\\nby that people, it having been the Celts who\\nlived on the pile-structures in the water. Be\\nthat as it may, it is now a flourishing, handsome,\\nmodern town, containing, with its nine suburban\\ndistricts, about seventy-five thousand inhabi-\\ntants living, as my hand-book informs me, in\\nfifty-two hundred and seventy-six houses and\\nforming sixteen thousand, one hundred and\\nninety seven families.\\nIt is a leading city both commercially and\\npolitically and has numerous manufactures for\\nsoap, silk, cotton, paper, machinery and so forth.\\nIt is solidly built in a great variety of architec-\\nture.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "284 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nChurches, cathedrals, museums, asylums, in-\\nstitutes, theaters, hospitals, picture-galleries,\\nschools, colleges, monuments, bridges and squares\\nabound; and the beavity of its broad, smooth\\nstreets, its blooming gardens, leafy terraces,\\ncharming nooks and secluded courts, its foun-\\ntains, ponds, river-shores and lake-fronts, its\\nup-to-date and tastefully ornamental, as well\\nas its antique and venerable structures, is very\\nstriking.\\nOne peculiarity in the very center of the town,\\nis a quiet, elevated place called the Lindenhof,\\nfrom which all the bustle and turmoil of a large\\ncity seems to rush away, instead of concentrat-\\ning. It is studded with lime trees and offers\\nan extensive view, unobstructed and undis-\\nturbed. This spot was the property of the Im-\\nperial Governors of Zurich and was the original\\nRoman stronghold, or First Quarter, of the\\ntown. Many coins and inscriptions of very\\nancient times have been found here.\\nThen there is the old town, little changed\\nfor many generations, with queer, zig-zagged\\nways and antique edifices. One, in the narrow,\\ncrooked street, Auf Dorf, is pointed out as the\\nformer residence of a famous civic official, Hans\\nWaldmann, who had to die on the scaffold on\\naccount of his overbearance and insolence\\ntoward his fellow-citizens whose idol he had been\\nand who had promoted him to the high post of\\nburgomeister. Another of the numberless\\ninstances of the Swiss hatred for and defiance of\\noppression in any form.\\nDelightful excursions are to be taken in every\\ndirection, surpassed only by those nearer\\nLucerne. A miniature railway having a rolling-\\nstock of four engines and ten cars, leads up the\\nUetliberg, a hill to the north of the city. This", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 285\\nline is nearly thirtjthousand feet in length,\\nwith a gradient of seven per cent, so there is\\nnothing very marvelous about this excursion in\\nthis land of tremendous heights, but the viev^^\\nof the vari d landscape beneath, with the dis-\\ntant Alps rising in mysterious beauty far beyond,\\nis very charming.\\nPrices in Zurich seem quite cheap, especially\\nwhen one recalls what it costs to spend a few\\ndays at any of our popular resorts in the United\\nStates. One can hire a carriage for fifty cents\\nan hour, or six hours for two dollars and a half;\\nor to be driven from one point to another not ex-\\nceeding a quarter of an hour in time, for sixteen\\ncents. Tramway rates in the city, two cents;\\nfrom or into the suburbs, four cents. Row-\\nboats for one or two persons, ten cents\\nan hour, sail-boat, twenty cents. At the thea-\\nter a single seat in a large front box, eighty cents,\\nwhich is the highest price anywhere in the house.\\nA messenger with or without a load of less than\\nthirty-three pounds in the city, four cents; with\\nthat weight or more, with or without a cart,\\neight cents. A man and cart moving furniture\\nor cleaning house or carpets, twelve cents an\\nhour, or one dollar a day, and so on.\\nIn going about Zurich, one notes at occasional\\nintervals, very odd specimens of rock, or boul-\\nders, set up, as inquiry develops, as ornamental\\ncuriosities. Some are dark blue, others red,\\nstill others variegated, and all of most erratic\\nconformation. They do not appertain, we are\\ntold, to the spots wherein they rest, but have\\nbeen discovered at points in the vicinity of Zur-\\nich and have been brought at great expenditure\\nof force and money, into the city and deposited\\nto quote a popular phrase, where they will do\\nthe most good.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "286 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe Grand Central Railway Station of Zurich\\nis magnificent and the remarkably spacious\\nsquare in which it stands is a marvel of urban\\nbeauty and artistic adornment.\\nWith a longing, lingering look behind, at\\nthe thriving city with its flowing river and gray-\\ngreen lake at its feet, and its verdure-clad back-\\nground reaching into snowy heights above, I\\nwatched it all fade in the distance and merge\\nlittle by little into the less striking region\\nabout Basle, toward which converging\\npoint of multitudinous lines, I again sped.\\nHere changing trains and resuming German\\nmoney and German language, I journeyed on\\nvia Offenburg and Appemweier to Heidelberg,\\nand thence by way of Mainz and Kastel to\\nWiesbaden,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXIII.\\nMainz is a fine city of ancient origin and mod-\\nern improvements, and very fair was it to loolc\\nupon as it lay spread out before me in the warm\\nsunshine. I paused not, however, to enjoy its\\nbeauties nor its glories, making only a short\\nhalt between trains.\\nThe Rhine here is broad and splendid. It is\\nfrom this point that the Rhine-journey is us-\\nually begun, passengers for train or boat to the\\nnorth, being taken by carriage through the\\ntown and across its beautiful bridge to Kastel\\nopposite.\\nThus far my way lay, so I entered the waiting\\nvehicle with five other travelers. Three of these\\nwere a family party, father, mother and son,\\nEnglish, who were in great perplexity concern-\\ning their luggage, about which they conversed\\nvolubly in the language of their countrv.\\nIt was impossible for me to remain ignorant\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2of their grievances unless I had been suddenly\\nstricken deaf, but of course, it was all none of\\nmy afi^air. Finally the conductor appeared de-\\nmanding tickets, and there was another over-\\nflowing torrent of speech turned in his direction,\\nas all tried to explain at once, but the conduc-\\ntor\\nshook his flaxen head\\nand smilingly answered:\\nNix-fer-stay. Then they said it all over\\nagain, with that calm and indomitable assurance\\nwhich all English seem to have, that if they only\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0speak distinctly and forcibly enough in their\\n287", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "288 ONE WO .MAN WANDERING\\nnative tongue, every foreigner will surely un-\\nderstand.\\nBut it was of no avail; the conductor had no\\nEnglish, and the party had no German. At\\nlast as the English began for the fourth time to\\nrehearse their tale of woe, I ventured, seeing\\nno one else was likely to come to their relief, tO\\nsay a few words in German to the conductor.\\nAt this the English party turned to me and\\npoured forth the story once more, as if I had not\\nbeen able to hear the relation the other four\\ntimes but I listened gravely and did what I\\ncould to elucidate matters, enough so that final-\\nly the conductor ejaculated, \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Ja^ja, ganzrecht,^\\nslammed the door and we rolled away.\\nThen the English party added for me a few\\npersonal details, saying that they had traveled\\nin India, in Egypt and nearly all over the globe,\\nthis being their third trip through Germany.\\nAnd you do not speak German? I inquired,\\nrather superfluously, it must be admitted. Oh,\\nno? they returned complacently, We do not\\nspeak any language but our own; we can always\\nmake ourselves understood in English. I was\\nsorely beset with a desire to laugh, but managed,\\nI trust, to keep my countenance as impassive as\\nthe faces of the fifth and sixth occupants of the\\nconveyance, wh:) had not moved a muscle dur-\\ning all this confabulation.\\nReaching Kastel, I took train for Wiesba-\\nden, which lies inland, principally in a broad and\\nsmiling plain bounded far away on the one hand\\nby the river Rhine, and encircled otherwise by\\nthe southern declivities of the Taunus Mount-\\nains. Off in the distance, the peaks of the\\nOdenwald and the Donnersberg are silhouetted\\nagainst the horizon. The woodland slopes that\\nrise gently away from the main town, are", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 289\\nthreaded by picturesque and leafy avenues\\nwhose umbrageous nooks are studded with\\nstately mansion and ornate cottage.\\nRecords show that Wiesbaden was first known\\nas Mattiacum, and the graver citizens of this\\nnow fashionable watering place, are fond of\\nmentioning that Pliny himself stated, \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Sunt et\\nMattiaci foiites caiicU. These hot springs\\nof volcanic origin, are certainly in evidence to-\\nday and to them the city owes its distinctive\\nprosperity. About some of the principal ones,\\nthe ground is warm at all times and even in\\nwinter no snow can remain there. Most of the\\ngreat hotels have their own boiling mineral\\nsprings, and the facilities for laving in and im-\\nbibing the curative waters are innumerable.\\nIt is a pretty town its gay and cheerful ap-\\npearance somewhat suggestive of Lucerne, but\\nwithout the superb setting of that gem of\\npleasure-places. As in Lucerne, the attractions\\nof the old and the new are inseparably blended.\\nTraces of old Roman occupation, such as the\\nancient Wall of the Heathen, numerous votive\\nstones, massive antique baths excavated from\\nfar below the present surface, tiles with the\\nstamp of the Legion, coins and various other re-\\nlics, are to be noted within stone s throw of, if\\nnot actually contiguous to pleasant modern parks\\nand promenades, gay gardens, fine churches,\\ntheaters, ornamental villas and the like and in\\naddition, all the concomitants, architectural or\\notherwise, incidental to a popular cure; such\\nas palatial bath-houses, splendid drinking-halls,\\nor pump-rooms and so forth, with every fin\\nde Steele convenience and improvement.\\nThe one defect in natural beauty, is the lack,\\nwithin the immediate area of the city, of lake or\\nriver hence artificial ponds and fountains are", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "290 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nmuch more numerous here than in Lucerne, as\\nthere Nature herself has wrought on so mighty\\na scale, that man s efforts seem puny and in-\\neffective; but here he has had wider scope and\\nthe beautiful adornments of square and Platz\\nand of the spacious grounds of the various\\nKurhauseri throughout the place, are indeed\\ndiverse and enchanting.\\nEverywhere also as in Lucerne, one meets a\\nbrilliant, light-hearted throng, but here there is\\na very large supplement of the aged and infirm,\\nthe lame, the halt, and I do not know but\\nthe blind, also, who flock here with canes and\\ncrutches and in rolling-chairs, to obtain the\\nbenefit of these healing waters.\\nThe city in some respects also reminds me of\\nsome of our thriving American towns, as im-\\nprovements seem to be continually under way;\\nnew tramways are in progress, though there are\\nmany previous lines old buildings are in de-\\nmolition and new ones in building, so that there\\nis an air of pleasing activity to be noted\\nthroughout the streets, though there is none of\\nthe rush and clangor of a large commercial\\ncenter.\\nWiesbaden is now a city of sixty thousand or\\nmore inhabitants. Much of its development is\\nsaid to be due to the late Emperor William I.,\\nwho made this his favorite bathing-place for\\nmany years and never failed to show special\\nfavor to the town.\\nOf the many splendid and picturescfue edifices\\nof Wiesbaden, I will say little. One of the most\\nconspicuous is the great synagogue standing\\nupon steep Michaelsberg. It is of noble, orien-\\ntal style, wrought out in light-gray sandstone\\ndecorated with arabesques. With its Moorish\\nspires, its domes and huge cupola, it is a grand", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 291\\nand impressive structure. In the Markt Platz\\nstands the new Town-Hall, a peculiarly shaped,\\nseven-sided building, of variegated sandstone,\\nseeming to be in composition, a blending of Re-\\nnaissance and Gothic features. Many balcon-\\nies and galleries give variety to the fagades. A\\nstandard-bearer of chased copper decorates the\\nmain front. In the upper field of the middle gable\\nis the civic coat-of-arms borne by allegorical fig-\\nures. In the window medallions are busts of\\nthe emperors William I. and Frederick III.\\nAdorning the central balcony are colossal statues\\nof Justice, Power, Diligence and Benevolence.\\nVarious other details abound, of fitting and in-\\nteresting decoration. The whole effect is pic-\\nturesque without lacking in dignity.\\nPassing along Wilhelm and Taunus streets,\\nwe come to the entrance of the Nerothal where\\nwe find a fine bronze monument in honor of\\nWiesbaden s sons who fell in the campaigns of\\n1870-71, against the French.\\nAll about here are verdant vineyards and, be-\\nyond and above, the well-wooded heights of the\\nNeroberg, accessible by cog-wheel railway.\\nReaching the top one finds a wide, eleva-\\nted, undulating plain pleasingly diversified\\nby grove and garden, and quaint as well as\\nelegant detached stiuctures. A few steps\\nbrings one to the Nero Temple, a small pavilion\\nof white marble with rounded dome supported\\nby slender columns upon a circular platform.\\nFrom here one has a lovely view; but, going on,\\none comes to one of the finest hotels in the\\nvicinity, eight hundred feet above the plain,\\nwith an observatory of odd construction seventy\\nfeet higher, from which is seen a vast, unob-\\nstructed prospect over a marvelous expanse of\\nlandscape. One s gaze roves abroad over a", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "292 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nwide emerald plain, through the far distance of\\nwhich the silvery waters of the Rhine, spanned\\nby the graceful bridge at Mainz, gleam in their\\nwinding course. Wiesbaden is at one s feet,\\nand the whole immense sea of Taunus green\\nfoliage stretches north and northeast, wafting\\nafar its balmy odors. Outlined against the sky\\nare the proud summits of the Wurzel, Platte,\\nFeldberg, Alt-koenig, besides Melibokus and\\nDonnerberg: between them lie verdant and\\nshadowy valleys inhabited by all manner of\\ngame. To quote an enthusiastic visitor, For-\\nest and fountain seem to do their utmost to give\\nback health to suffering mankind.\\nStill strolling onward, one reaches the spot\\nwhere, midst forest green and sylvan shade, lies\\nWiesbaden s city of the dead.\\nGazing upon its peaceful loveliness, one re-\\ncalls the words of an ancient minnesinger who\\nso long ago felt that\\nHere beneath these leafy shadows,\\nWith the soft breeze roving- past,\\nAnd the songsters mellow warbling,\\nIt were sweet to lie at last.\\nHere, as elsewhere over all the wide, wide\\nworld, has grieving affection striven to render\\nimmortal the memory of its vanished ones but\\namong the many artistic tributes are two of\\nsuch rare beauty, that possibly a brief descrip-\\ntion may be of intere\u00c2\u00a7t.\\nThe one, representing a small chapel, is hewn\\nfrom pure white marble. The sad figure of\\nmourning Love stands at the threshold, and to\\nher the door is opened by a little Angel of\\nPeace. To the left of the door stands a youth\\nwith a wreath of poppy leaves and an inverted\\ntorch. There is a simple and classic beauty", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 293\\nabout the Avhole c( nception, that is very affect-\\ning.\\nThe other, just beyond, known as the Gre-\\ncian Chapel, is entirely diverse in type. It is\\nin the form of a Greek cross and is richly\\nadorned without and within, while above its\\ngreen embowerment, rise five golden cupolas\\ninto the clear light of heaven. This sepultary\\nedifice was reared to the memory of the wife\\nof the Duke of Nassau, the lovely princess Eliz-\\nabeth Miehaelowna, who died in the flower of her\\nyouth. A flight of broad, marble steps leads to\\nthe interior, where the light filters in. through\\nsplendidly ornate, stained windows and falls in\\ncountless, prismatic hues over the polished\\nmarble walls, whereon are hung many a rare\\npainting of themes sacred and sublime. In the\\ncenter of the beautiful rotunda, under the gentle\\nlight of the cupola, lies the lovely sculptured\\nfigure of the fair princess. Eich curtains\\ndraped far above fall in folds of artistic grace,\\nshielding but not hiding the pure young beauty\\nhere so delicately, so touchingly represented.\\nFaith, Hope, Charity and Immortality stand at\\nthe four corners of the sarcophagus, keepi sg\\nsilent guard forever.\\nIn this chapel, the Russian community of\\nWiesbaden holds its religious services.\\nWith so much beauty of art and nature on all\\nsides, one would fain linger discovering new de-\\nlights at every step, but the shades of night are\\ngathering and, though there is no darkness in\\nthis electricity-illumined spot, yet tired feet and\\neyes petition for respite even from the pursuit\\nof beauty, and I return to my hotel, which, by\\nthe way, is somewhat different in arrangement\\nfrom any that I have seen before.\\nThere is a large, imposing entrance-portal, or", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "294 ONE WOMAN WANDEKING\\nvestibule, that opens directly from the street on\\nthe same level, and. extends Inward about fifty\\nfeet up two or three steps at one side, open the\\ngreat dining and breakfast-rooms; from the\\nother, a large, square hall, from which access is\\nhad to the elevator, the porter s lodge and the\\nlike. The rear wall of the vestibule is of glass,\\nwith a wide opening in the middle, admitting to\\na central court gay with flowers and trees.\\nHere moals are served al fresco. But the pecu-\\nliarity is that around this court, which is in-\\nclosed by the innt^r walls of the hotel, are a num-\\nber of doors with steps and sometimes little\\nporches before them, and these lead into com-\\nplete apartments or suites, so that the occupants\\nhave a private entrance of their own, opening-\\nonly into their own quarters and through which\\nno guests of the hotel pass, except themselves.\\nThese families may take their meals in the din-\\ning-room, or in the court under their windows,\\nor have them sent in, or go outside for them, as\\nthey prefer. It struck me as a happy mingling\\nof the advantages of public and domestic living.\\nI did a little shopping in Wiesbaden, and\\nfound to my surprise, when the saleswoman pufc\\nthe wares before me, that I had asked for em-\\nbroidery-needles instead of pins. In the laugh\\nthat we had together over my blunder, I discov-\\nered that she spoke English, so I made no more\\nerrors.\\nSpeaking of shopping, reminds me that while\\nI was in Hanover, a German lady told me that\\nit was not good form to leave any store which\\none had entered, without purchasing something.\\nVisitors are not expected to inspect goods unless\\ndesiring to buy, and, if the stock fails to\\ncontain the article desired, one must pur-\\nchase something to recompense the dealer for", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 295\\nshowing his wares. Opening Days are un-\\nknown and one s room is better than one s\\ncompany unless one buys goods whether\\nwanted or not. Naturally, the raids of the\\ngenus shopper are sternly discountenanced.\\nIt was quite different in Paris, where the sales-\\npeople give a visitor every facility to look about.\\nOn the whole goods are not expensive and are\\nmade for service. Gloves, millinery and silks,\\nthough dearer than in France, are much less so\\nthan in America. Rates for tailoring and needle\\nwork in general, are lower than in France\\nthough to my surprise, I found them moderate\\nthere, outside the large, fashionable emporiums\\nso well known on both sides of the water.\\nHere, as in most foreign countries, American\\nshoes are found at the head, not meaning that\\nthey take the place of hats, the German shoe es-\\npecially being fearfully and wonderfully made.\\nI am reminded of a little incident that occurred\\nas I was walking to church one morning. I was\\nnot quite sure as to the way and, as I crossed a\\nstreet, I met a pleasant-looking lady of whom I\\ninquired.\\nShe replied in English, adding:\\nYou are American, are you not?\\nOh! I replied, somewhat chagrined, is it\\npossible my German is so faulty that you can\\neven tell whether I am American or English?\\nNot that at all; she answered, it is yovxr\\nfeet. I noticed as you held you skirts out of the\\ndust, that you were wearing American shoes, and\\nas you are a stranger and a foreigner, I decided\\nthat you were from America.\\nI felt quite relieved and went on my way re-\\njoicing, though I marveled at the keenness of her\\nobservation.\\nI think I have remarked before that I like", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "298 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nGermans the best of any foreigners that I have\\nencountered. As a rule, they are very friendly\\nand level-headed, and occasionally they show\\nsuch delicious and unexpected simplicity. As\\nfor instance; one day at dinner in my jje\u00c2\u00bb.9/ora, the\\nconversation turned upon the subject of divorce\\nand the greater facility, which unfortunately\\nis too true, with which it may be obtained in\\nAmerica, and especially in Chicago, than in\\nEurope. The report as to how far South Dakota\\nhad out-stripped the older community, in this\\nspecial line, had evidently not jet penetrated\\ninto dreamy old Germany. At any rate, our\\nhostess, a traveled and cultured lady, remarked\\nin perfect good faith\\nWhy, is it not dreadful? I was reading to-\\nday in a paper, how it is over there in Chicago.\\nThere is a place right in the post office, where\\nyou can go and get divorce-papers while you are\\nwaiting for your mail.\\nHer shocked expression, with her implicit reli-\\nance on a newspaper squib, were too much for\\none having a keen sense of the ludicrous, and in\\nspite of my efforts, I ha-ha-ed right out,\\nalmost before the words had left her lips. It\\nwas some time before she could comprehend why\\nI laughed, and I fancy she even yet believes it was\\nprincipally due to the reprehensible folly of\\nthose dreadful Americans, for the other\\nAmericans at the table laughed too, though it\\nwas I who disgracefully led the van.\\nIt was while at this 7: e\u00c2\u00absio/i that I learned that\\nvisitors are not desired in German schools, and\\nonly admitted after much use of red tape.\\nExpressing a desire to see something of the\\npractical educational system of Germany, I was\\ninformed that it would be necessary to make\\napplication to the authorities for a permit, which", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 297\\nmight not be granted for several months, if at all.\\nA case was instanced of a gentleman from Kan-\\nsas, who, being a professional pad igogue of\\nrepute in his own country, applied on his arrival\\nin Hanover, for such a permit; he made a long\\nstay there, followed some branch of study, made\\nhimself familiar with tl)e city and busied himself\\n:in various ways, but finally was ob iged to re-\\nturn to America to take up his professional\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2duties; and not until he had been gone three\\nmonths, did his governmental permission to visit\\nthe schools of Hanover, arrive at his foreign\\naddress. Old-world citizens are continually\\ncomplaining because the Americans are always\\nin such a hurry. Not wishing to remain indefi-\\nnitely in any place, I decided to make no appli-\\n.cation of any kind to the authorities.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "CHAPTEE XXXIV.\\nBy way of variety, instead of going back to\\nKastel for the Rhine- Journey, which is the\\nusual route, I took a steam tram at Wiesbaden\\nand went over to Biebrich-Bahnhof a short dis-\\ntance below Kastel on the river. For several\\nweeks now I have seen nothing of my luggage\\nexcepting two small grips, as my JRund-Reise\\nticket, taken at Hanover, allows nothing free\\nbut what can be taken into one s compartment;\\nso I expressed my heavy pieces to London to be\\nstored there until my arrival. I might better\\nhave left a large part of it in America.\\nIt is really amusing to see what an amount of\\ntraps under the guise of hand-luggage is\\nbrought into the compartment by the average\\ntraveler, to avoid paying excess charges as it\\nall is transported in any case, I do not see why\\nit could not as well be stowed in the luggage-van,\\nout of the passenger s way; it would weigh no\\nmore there than in the compartment, certainly.\\nProbably, however, the baggage coaches are so\\nsmall that such a course would necessitate put-\\nting on an extra one, and that would entail\\nmuch additional weight. And here let me\\nonce more sound a warning to the lone one.\\nTrue, I had been warned myself before sailing,\\nand thought had I reduced my things to the\\nsmallest livable compass, but here I have been\\nexisting for weeks, in two grips, and shall\\nhave to continue so to do, for some time more.\\nBut there was one point that I did not realize\\nand which I emphasize for the benefit of my sol-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 299\\nitary sister; namely, the slight degree of varia-\\ntion in temperature over here, from day to day.\\nOne does not appear in flannels and furs in the\\nmorning and in frillls and fans before night, or\\nvice versa, as so often with us; and I have\\nnever yet, even in the crowded cities, exper-\\nienced any of what the average American would\\ncall truly torrid weather, though the native\\non this side may be complaining of the beastly\\nheat. This state of things naturally renders the\\nwardrobe question less complicated, fewer changes\\nbeing required. Since winter has really taken\\nits leave, the atmosphere has been mostly genial\\nand delightful. To be sure, I can only speak\\nregarding the parts I have visited.\\nIt was charming indeed to-day as we ran\\nalong in the open country and through two or\\nthree trim and quaint little hamlets, before\\nreaching our destination at the boat-landing of\\nBiebrich, a small village that has sprung up\\naround Schloss Biehrich, the property of the\\nDuke of Nassau. If one prefers, one may leave\\nthe train at Mosbach and walk thence to this\\nsame point, through the lovely grounds of this\\ncastle, and past its interesting antiquity;\\nthough, being a little less than two hundred\\nyears old, it is considered rather modern in these\\nregions.\\nA goodly multitude of expectant humanity of\\nassorted nationalities, awaited the coming of\\nour steamer from Mainz-Kastel, which cities we\\ncould see distinctly on opposite banks of the\\nRhine, as we looked up the stream. Finally the\\nGerman Emperor came puffing sedately down\\nthe river with much dignity, though, being but\\na boat, he or she did not ignore the mani-\\nfest desire of the populace, but swerved grace-\\nfully toward us with several discordant shrieks", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "300 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nlittle creditable to her or his majesty.\\nQuite a number of persons had already taken\\npassage from the twin cities above, and we\\nhastened to swell the throng.\\nTlie Rhine steamers are of good size, net so\\nlarge as the Hudson River floating palaces, but\\npleasant and well-equipped. It seemed queer to\\nhave first and second class even here. I believe\\nthe second classers must not go to the salon-deck,\\nbut their quarters, from what I could see as I\\npassed up the companion-wiiy, seemed clean and\\nattractive.\\nAnd now I am really abroad upon the famous\\nriver around whose very name there lingers so\\nmuch of romance and poetry. It is a gay scene\\ntug-boats, passenger-boats, freight-boats, pleas-\\nure-boats, of nearly every size and type, are\\npassing to and fro and all is life and animation.\\nThe sun shines brilliantly, the fields are smiling,\\npennons gracefully flutter, the wavelets foam\\nand sparkle about our steamer, reflecting all the\\ncolors of the rainbow, and happy hearts make\\nholiday with laughter and song.\\nCountless little tables are set about and lively\\ngroups gather around wath various kucken\\nand other edibles, washed down by the light\\nbeers and wines of the countiy. The American\\ntourist, distinctive by his unconquerable pen-\\nchant for ice- water though he may also swal-\\nlow much stronger beverages, is on hand and\\nappears to oscillate betw een two extremes, the\\nwildly rapturous and the loftily disparaging.\\nI, wishing to avoid either, do not parade my\\nnationality but sit quietly in as German a seem-\\ning as I can command.\\nBut I soon lose all thoughts of self as the\\nlovely pictures on either side gradually unroll\\nbefore me. A little hand-book I have picked", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 301\\nup, declares that the Rhine is the most inter-\\nesting river in the world, and I do not know-\\nbut the author has struck the key-note of its\\npeculiar charm. There are longer rivers; there\\nare grander rivers there are rivers whose shores\\nspread out in sublimer landscapes; but what\\nother river has the legends, the traditions, the\\nmyths and mysteries, as well as the splendidly\\nauthentic record of bravery and chivalry through\\nhundreds of years, handed down from genera-\\ntion to generation, that cluster along this mean-\\ndering stream which first transmitted to Ger-\\nmany the culture of the Romans?\\nStory and verse, epic and lyric, from time\\nunreckoned have rendered immortal its fascina-\\ntions and its renown; while frowning castle and\\ncrumbling ruin give visible attestation to its\\npresent and its former importance. There is a\\ncharm about it all, that is well nigh untellable\\nand one begins to comprehend the emotions of\\nthat aged German sire who so long ago in appo-\\nsite verse, adjured his son to go not to the\\nRhine, lest he never come back anymore.\\nFor the water smiles up at the mountains so blue,\\nAnd the mountains smile back to the stream,\\nAnd the lassies and lads are so friendly and true.\\nThat thy soul shall in Paradise seem.\\nEntranced by the smiles and bewitched by the wine,\\nEcstatic its vineyards thou lt roam,\\nAnd singing forever, The Rhine, O, the Rhine!\\nThou lt never come back to thy home.\\nWe are fairly under way and, leaving Castle\\nBiebrich embowered in its leafy nook behind us,\\nour boat winds along amidst the islands that so\\nnumerously intersperse this stretch of the river,\\nand nears Niederwalluf, at which point the\\nfamous Rhine-Wine-District begins. The", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "302 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nslopes are dotted with elegant villas and pic-\\nturesque cottages, with castle or ruin on every\\nheight; while in all the green intervales and\\nreaching back upon the fertile declivities, twine\\nthe verdant tendrils and droop the purple clus-\\nters devoted to the worship of Bacchus.\\nOn the right appears Elfeld, which, in con-\\ntrast to all the misty romance of this interesting\\nlocality, claims to have possessed as long ago as\\n14^)5, that very practical and matter-of-fact ma-\\nchine, a printing-press. A handsome Gothic\\nwatch-tower reared in 1330, looks down calmly\\nupon us as we pass beneath its portals and move\\non, approaching first one side and then the\\nother of the sinuous stream whose delightful\\nshores lie so near at either hand and stretch\\nback into vistas of enchantment.\\nThe vineyards of the Ehinegau are getting\\nmore numerous. Yonder lies Hattenheim with\\nits giant pipe; beyond, the vines of Steinberg\\nand Marcobrunn near at hand, the gray walls\\nof the monastery Eberbach and everywhere\\ncreeping close to the borders of the river, are\\nthe cheerful little villages that give pleasing\\nvivacity to the beauteous scene.\\nAnd now rises a fair incline that undulates in\\ngently sloping terraces to a considerable height,\\non the top of which appears an extensive but\\nsimply designed edifice. This is the world-re-\\nnowned fSchloss Johannisberg where is produced\\nthe precious wine of that name. This, with ad-\\njacent grounds, is the property of Prince Met-\\nternich, and comprises a vineyard of many\\nacres. Some one has enthusiastically called it\\nthe Pearl of the Ehinegau in consideration\\nof the wine it produces, I should think ruby\\nthe better term, but there w^iat do I know\\nabout it? Johannisberger may be pearl-col-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 303\\nored for aught I can testify, for I have not yet,\\nin spite of my now lengthy sojourn in the land\\nof the grape and vine, learned to imbibe their\\nliquid products with any more gusto than when\\nI left my native land.\\nStill on we glide. On either side of the river,\\nrunning mostly parallel to its shores, stretches a\\nrailroad track occasionally we note a train\\nrushing along, sometimes on the one hand, some-\\ntimes on the other, frequently on both at once,\\nall far out-stripping our own rate of speed; but\\nas we watch them plunge into the black tunnels\\nunder every hill, we are glad that we may float\\ndown the stream in the free air and sunshine.\\nMore and more fascinating grows the scene.\\nNow rise into view the towers and gables of fair\\nRudesheim, nestled with its numerous hotels and\\npleasant wine-gardens at the foot of the great\\nNiederwald, a dark forest above whose oaken\\nbranches and shadowy crown of foliage looms\\nfar up on the summit of the mountain, the pride\\nof the nation, that great master-piece of com-\\nmemorative art, \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Die Wacht am Rhem.\\nIt is a grand and beautifully impressive object\\nvisible for miles around from vale and river.\\nOne may leave the boat here and take a cog-\\nwheel railway up through vineyards and groves\\nto the top of the mountain, and thus inspect\\nclosely this noble creation.\\nThe figure of Germania, a woman richly garbed,\\nwith flowing robes and corsage of mail, stands\\nboldly forth before the imperial throne. Her\\nleft hand grasps a mighty sword wreathed in\\nlaurel, her right holds proudly aloft the\\naugust, jeweled crown of Germany.\\nThe figure is thirty-six feet high and is the\\ndesign of- Professor J. Schilling of Dresden.\\nThe bronze casting was done in Munich and con-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "304 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nsists partly of metal of conquered cannon, a fact\\nadding to the significance of the memorial. The\\nmasonry beneath the monument is mighty and\\nsolid, being circular in form. From the grand\\nboulevard below, a wide flight of many steps,\\nbroad and imposing, rises to the base of this\\nfoundation and terminates at a spacious plat-\\nform. Leading from one side of this, a narrower\\nflight passes around the great bulk of the struc-\\nture and up to another extensive platform in\\nthe rear, which is on a level with the substruc-\\nture. All exposed verges are carefully railed\\nin. Upon the substructure stands the pedestal\\nof the monument. At the front, on a small ped-\\nestal of its own, is a noble group representing\\nthe rivers Rhine and Moselle. On the right upon\\nthe main pedestal and above the river-group,\\nstands the haughty figure of War, stern and de-\\nfiant; on the corresponding left, the graceful\\nform of Peace, prosperous and serene.\\nBetween these two, in the main facade, is a\\nmagnificent high-relief of \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Die Wacht am\\nBheiri, with portrait figures of the late Emperor\\nWilliam I. and many of the princes and officers\\ninstrumental in the reconstruction of the German\\nEmpire; the lofty and commanding form of\\nBismarck standing out almost as haughty and\\ndefiant as the figure of War itself,- while below\\nis graven in letters of unusual size, the full text\\nof the stirring poem from which the memorial\\ntakes its name.\\nOn the right and left faces respectively, are\\nfine reliefs, The Departure and The Home-\\ncoming. The foundation-stone was laid by the\\nold Emperor William, and the monument was\\nunvailed in his presence and that of an enthus-\\niastic multitude in 1883. Since then it has been\\na place of pilgrimage for the whole German-\\nnation.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 305\\nAnd who can wonder? Even the bosom of an\\nalien pulses more quickly, gazing at the majes-\\ntic object rising above the lovely scene\\nspread out far below; and when to all this\\nbeauty of art and nature, is added the conscious-\\nness that here, from away back into dim ages,\\none s forefathers struggled even unto the death,\\nto defend and prosper the Fatherland, how\\none s heart must swell. From so long a time it\\nis that German right and German might\\nhave stood here supreme in spite of foreign foes.\\nThe old bridge at Drusus speaks of Roman in-\\nvasion still are standing at Ingelheim the pillars\\nof Charlemagne s imperial palace; and have not\\nthese blue mountains looked down through all\\nthe centuries upon the tremendous warfare of\\nGerman knights, who put not lance in rest\\nuntil the enemy was driven from the borders\\nand no marauder dared again to venture upon\\nthe sacred soil?\\nAnd now beneath these same blue mountains,\\nupon this arena of a heroic past, moves the busy\\nand joyous pageant of modern life with its in-\\ncessant activity, its gayety, its elegance. Barge\\nand row-boat, yacht and steamer, glide along\\nthe stream trains dash back and forth and in\\nand out of those stupendous tunnels; thousands\\nof persons on business and pleasure bent, pass\\nto and fro luxury, invention and speculation\\nhave wrought miracles innumerable; and to-day,\\nabove all, immutable in beauty and majesty,\\nstands this glorious monument, typifying sub-\\nlimely forever the thought of a united Father-\\nland. And ever joining the past to the present,\\nthe silver Rhine flows on.\\nWe rouse from our musings and return to\\nRudesheim where we re-embark upon the rolling\\nstream.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "806 ONE WOMAN WANDEEING\\nA little above Rudesheim, on the opposite\\nbank, is Rochusberg with its interesting chapel\\non the mountain, where is annually celebrated in\\nAugust the festival of St. Roch. Goethe, w^ho has\\ngiven us a vivid description of this festivity, pre-\\nsented the little chapel, during his sojourn in the\\nvicinity, an altar-piece which is carefully pre-\\nserved and cherished.\\nA little further down the stream is the old\\nruin Kloppburg, thought to be of Roman origin,\\nand noted as one of the many places where the\\nunfortunate Henry IV. was detained by his un-\\nfllial sons in 1105.\\nThe country flattens out somewhat here and,\\nlooking to the left, we note the spires and tur-\\nrets of a considerable city becoming visible just\\nwhere an arm of the river branches off to the\\nwestward. What a thrill runs over one on\\nlearning that this is Bingen, fair Bingen on\\nthe Rhine. How the tide of recollection rolls\\nbackward and we see ourselves in the old-time\\nachool-room where, once a week, are held the\\nliterary exercises of the various classes; see the\\nagitated maiden, whose trembling hand can\\nscarcely hold the Fifth Reader from which\\nshe voices in nearly inaudible accents her favor-\\nite selection, as ubiquitous in that day as the\\nCurfew shall not ring to-night, of a later era.\\nWho does not recall the opening lines?\\nA soldier of the legion lay dying at Algiers,\\nThere was lack of woman s nursing, there was\\ndearth of woman s tears.\\nOr perchance it is a sturdy youth, whose\\ngraces of elocution are entirely dormant, if at\\nall existent, who, in shaky, uncertain basso, pro-\\nceeds to declaim with few pauses and no inflec-\\ntions, the same perennial poem but whichever,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 307\\nor whoever it is, each invariably declares in\\nlugubrious tones,\\nFor I was born in Bin-jun fair Bin-jun on -the\\nRhine.\\nFair indeed it is to-day and beautiful beyond\\ntelling, the green shores and hurrying waters\\nthat here race so merrily onward wiih ripple\\nand swirl of contrary currents, carrying us on\\nswiftly until we pass below the ancient city, and\\ncome abreast of a tiny island, principally a rock\\nof quartz, separated by a deep channel from the\\nmain shore.\\nAnd now what do we see, tall, attenuated, an-\\ntiquated, with slim, battlemented turrets and\\nnarrow slits, rising grim and ghost- like from the\\nvery bosom of the waters? Jjo you\\nthink of the Bishop of Bingen\\nAnd his mouse-tower on the Rhine?\\nFor that is what it is. And now I am con-\\nsumed with curiosity to know why mouse\\ntower. My ignorance is dispelled by a reference\\nto the wise little book in my hand, whose terse\\nelucidation I will give for the benefit of some\\nlone sister who, like myself, may never before\\nhave learned what it all means. Thus the\\nbook\\nThe Mouse-Tower, properly Mus -Tower,\\nmuserie-gunnery cf. musket; a tower built for\\nlevying loll by Archbishop Hatto, as is told by\\na popular legend. Short and to the point.\\nWe shall not forget it.\\nPrior to the year 1832, this portion of the\\nriver was considered very perilous, as great vol-\\numes of water were forced through an exceed-\\ningly narrow channel but at that date the op-\\nerations and improvements upon the stream were", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "308 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ncompleted and the roaring river was subdued\\nbelow the danger-point.\\nJust below the tower, on the right, lie the\\nruins Ehrenfels, built in the thirteenth century,\\nalso for the levying of toll on passing boats, in\\nthat period when so emphatically might meant\\nright.\\nMountain and vineyard, grove and hamlet,\\nappear and fall behind. Again on the left rises\\na steep rock nearly three hundred feet high, on\\nthe summit of which sits the mediaeval castle\\nfiheinstein, known to have been in existence in\\nthe thirteenth century. It was restored in 1829\\nand is the property of Prince George of Prussia.\\nNow is seen a continuous succession of high,\\nbold precipices rent by great ravines and yawn-\\ning chasms. Here stands the Falkenberg with\\nthrilling history centuries ago a Roman castle,\\nlater a robber s stronghold and once destroyed\\nby Rudolph of Hapsburg.\\nYonder upon that huge rock wall, eight hun-\\ndred feet above the river, looms the magnifi-\\ncently restored Castle Sooneck, the property of\\nthe Emperor and his brothers, its modern im-\\npregnability contrasting strangely wath the\\nancient ruins so close at hand.\\nBolder and loftier grow the shores. The vine-\\nyards are now behind us. Castle after castle\\nbristling with defences, towers upward on the\\ncrags, or ruined and dismantled displays its\\ncrumbling buttresses and fallen arches decked\\nwith moss and climbing plants.\\nScant space here have the little villages to\\ncrowd in between the river s margin and the\\nrugged cliffs behind. On the left again is the\\nrecently rebuilt Castle Heimburg,or Hoheneck,\\nrising from the fragments of a Roman castle\\nwholly destroyed in 1689. To the right the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 309\\nruin Nollingen, of the eleventh century, looking\\ndown over its Devil s Ladder a steep incline\\nof sharp-notched, rocky up-thrusts apparently\\ninsurmountable, yet over which a daring and im-\\npetuous knight of an ancient day is said to\\nhave forced his noble steed to gain his beau-\\nteous bride. Whether she too was brave and\\ndared to ride down with him again, deponent,\\nalas, sayeth not. Opposite rises a huge,\\nround tower, almost all that is left of Castle\\nFurstenburg, taken by Lewis the Bavarian in\\n1321, and finally demolished in 1609.\\nThe line of elevation descends for a space to\\na lower height. Here in a narrow area, crowd-\\ning against the overhanging declivities, is the\\nquaint town of Bacharach, whose well-preserved\\ncity-walls connect with the ruined Castle Stah-\\nlick on the rocks above.\\nOn the other side of the river, the town of\\nKaub, with considerable remains of ancient for-\\ntifications this spot has a more modern interest\\nas the place through which Blucher passed on\\nNew Year s eve, 1813-14. Above here, old\\nCastle Gutenfels, destroyed by Napoleon in 1805.\\nIn the center of the stream at this point, is an-\\nother huge rock upon which stands the Pfalz, a\\nvaster and more imposing, but not so romantic\\na structure as the Mouse-Tower, reared for\\nthe same purpose, the levying of toll in the days\\nof mediaeval oppression.\\nI cannot name all these mighty castles and\\nmajestic ruins, but which shall I ignore? Not\\nbeautiful Schoenberg with its three ivy-mantled\\ntowers rising so picturesquely on yonder wooded\\nheight; nor the ancient, free and imperial\\ntown, Oberwahl, with its antique defenses;\\nnor yet Ochsenthurm stately in mediaeval ma-\\nsonry.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "310 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nO, fair and thrilling picture O, crumbling^\\ncastles and ruins g aj, and frowning crag and\\nrolling river Higher and closer rise the moun-\\ntains. Deeper and narrower grows the stream\\nand the near rocks cast shadows. The flowing\\nwaters roll on and sweep around an eminence\\nhuge and high, far above the river. Steep and\\nragged is its front, and cruel the reefs that show\\ntheir jagged teeth beneath the cr^ystal waves;\\nbut aloft the sunlight glitters and the grass\\ngrowls green in dappled dells. Do you hear the\\nLoerlei singing?\\nA maiden of lovel est seeming\\nAfar on those heights so fair,\\nWith golden ornaments gleaming,\\nIs combing her golden hair.\\nSha l she lure us on till the grinning rocks\\nshall dash us to our doom? Oh! Heine, how\\nyour measures weird and thrilling, and how the\\nwitchery of the Rhine-land, do work like\\nmadness in the brain. Rouse up, O, Sense;\\nput away the glamour of song and music and leg-\\nendary lore look out with vision unclouded and\\nsay what, in verity, you now behold. A narrow\\nturn in a beautiful stream and a lofty bluff, tis\\ntrue; but modern science has widened the chan-\\nnel and the bluff is not more than five hundred\\nfeet in height; not so high as the Sooneck some\\ndistance back. And have you not also looked\\nupon the ice-topped Alps of Switzerland and\\nthe white ruggedness of the Rocky Moutains\\nthat thrust themselves against high heaven?\\nBut should one then bring out one s meas-\\nuring-line and say: This height is so many\\nfeet lower than that this rock is but one-third\\nas vast as another; I have seen wider streams\\nand summer skies?", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 311\\nNot so: let us rather yield again to the spell\\nof ancient days, of tradition and of poesy, and\\nfloat on enchanted, in a haze of dreamy delight.\\nSo we turn again to the lovely scene.\\nYonder is St. Goar where dwelt the venerable\\nhermit thirteen hundred years ago. Farther on,\\nperched on a prominent height, the ruins of the\\nso-called Cat, a fortress of the Katzenelbogen\\n(cat s elbow family and torn down in 1806;\\nand just below, another crumbling pile said to\\nto be in a military sense, (which I do not com-\\nprehend,) at the mercy of the cat, therefore\\nwith fit though rather grim humor, called The\\nMouse.\\nHow closely crowd the castellated ruins along\\neach bank. Yonder appear two bulky eleva-\\ntions looking out from their height, upon the\\nwinding river that curves gracefully here around\\nthe base of the mountain. Each is crowned with\\na fortress that long rose up impregnable, and is\\ndivided from the other only by a deep, narrow\\nchasm called The battle ditch.\\nHere, ages ago, tradition tells, there dwelt two\\nbrothers in these two castles on these twin moun-\\ntains, in splendor of pomp and power,each with\\nhis numerous retinue. But in the course of\\ntime, instead of inclining to\\nEach his friendly aid afford,\\nAnd feel his brother s care,\\nthey sought only war and strife, and so fought\\nunceasingly across the narrow ravine, whose\\ndepths have hidden many a ghastly victim and\\nechoed many a dying groan. But their warfare\\nis accomplished; centuries since, the last armed\\nwatchman left these battlements, the last mailed\\nwarrior abandoned these ramparts; the mighty\\nwalls are weakened chaotic fragments fill the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "312 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nspacious inclosures and modern warfare laughs\\ntheir defenses to scorn. But still the old bul-\\nwarks stand gazing off over this great theater\\nof time s infinite changes, and still the smiling\\nRhine rolls on.\\nWith a wide sweep the river turns eastward\\nand then again as far west. Fair Bornhofen\\nlies near with its cloister to which, even in this\\nprosaic age, flock crowds of pilgrims every year,\\nto pray before the hallowed shrine where sits\\nenthroned a Holy Mary of wondrous, miracle-\\nworking grace. Soon bold Marxburg lifts into\\nview, the only castle on the Rhine that has never\\nbeen destroyed, though dating beyond 1100.\\nBut now a most unique edifice appears on the\\nleft, at some distance from the shore, for here\\nagain the hills have receded somewhat and are\\nless precipitous. This, like the other antique\\nstructures, is of heavy masonry, but is low and\\nbroad and seems little but a massive, flat roof\\nresting upon many open arches. A flight of\\nsteps about half the height of the building,leads\\nto a rather stately portal rising perhaps five or\\nsix feet above the main front.\\nA kindly neighbor here informs me that\\nthis is The King s chair; is eighteen feet\\nhigh within and has eight stone seats, one for\\nthe emperor, seven for the electors. Here the\\nemperors were elected down to the fifteenth cen-\\ntury,and in 1330 it was decided that the pope s\\napproval was not necessary to confirm a choice.\\nAll this is truly quaint and old-timey.\\nAcross on the right, just before the river Lahn\\nempties into the Rhine, stands the very ancient\\ntown of Oberlahnstein and above on yon steep\\nrock. Castle Lahneck, once the property of the\\nKnights-Templars, and the scene of many an he-\\nroic conflict and defiant death in the centuries", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 313\\nagone. It was finally dismantled by the French\\nin 1688, but is now private propert} having\\nbeen restored in 1860.\\nNow haughty Stolzenfels, constructed in the\\nthirteenth century rears up its great, pentagonal\\ntower on the left, nearly five hundred feet above\\nthe Ehine. It is a stately stronghold, splen-\\ndidly restored, and contains, we are told, every\\nelegance and many rich collections. How won-\\nderful must be the view from ofi its pinnacles,\\ndown over verdant groves to fair Capellan at its\\nfeet, and off eastward where the tortuous Lahn\\nreaches away toward Ems.\\nMore marvelous still the changes it has wit-\\nnessed in the status of mankind, both subjec-\\ntively and objectively, through all this wide\\nexpanse, aye, through all the world abroad\\nwhile northward ever the rippling Rhine runs on.\\nSome distance along to the left, we see the\\nsuburban villas of a populous city and soon\\nbeautiful Coblenz spreads out into view, magni-\\nficently situated at the junction of the Moselle\\nwith the Rhine. Three fine bridges, the first\\nsince we left Biebrich, cross the main riverbe-\\ntween here and Stolzenfels. In the Moselle in\\n1864, were found the remains of a Roman\\nbridge; to-day a handsome solid structure of\\n,stone leads across this river just above its mouth.\\nWe note the quaint old Castor Church which,\\nwith its Gothic towers, has stood here for more\\nthan a thousand years.\\nA strong fort with garrison of fifty one hun-\\ndred soldiers, commands the city and all the im-\\nmediate vicinity while opposite the mouth of\\nthe Moselle, the great fortress Ehrenbreitstein,\\ninaccessible on three sides, frowns down from\\nits height of over three hundred feet. Never\\n,but twice in all the centuries of its existence.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "3U ONE AVOMAN WANDEEING\\nhas this fortress succumbed, and both times only\\nthrough hunger. What tragedies of resistance\\nand endurance that brief phrase implies. What\\nscenes of agony and horror have been enacted\\nwithin and before these invincible barriers\\nwhich to-day look so tranquilly down upon\\nthe fertile plains stretching otf so far below\\nfor here lies the lovely Ehrenbreitstein valley,\\nwhereof it truly seems that its ways are ways\\nof pleasantness and all its paths are peace,\\nIn this fair district Goethe abode in 1774,\\nwith Basedow and Lavater; and still as then\\nand in ages past, the restless Rhine sweeps on.\\nTwo large and leafy islands almost intercept\\nus at this point, but we carefully feel our way\\nalong in the channel, and our gaze, so long re-\\nstricted by lofty cliff and peak, now roves freely\\nover arable field and grassy meadow, while anew\\nthe clustering villages crowd close to the water s\\nedge. But yet a little farther, and once more\\narise the heights crowned as before with castle\\nand watch-tower, rampart and ruin.\\nO, wondrous Rhine! What pen shall fitly\\ntrare the glorious history of its borders? Here\\nis Engers, where Ctesar is sa d to have crossed\\nthe river. There are the ruins of Sayn, one of\\nthe most ancient strongholds upon the Rhine;\\nand Andernach, with its walls of Roman origin\\nand beautiful remains of tower and rampart,\\nthat resisted even the gunpowder of the French\\nin 1688.\\nOn yonder high and craggy rock, are the ex-\\ntensive ruins of Hammerstein, once strongly\\nfortified and one of the places of refuge for the\\nsorely beset Henry IV., but finally demolished\\nin 1660 by that warlike prelate, the Bishop of\\nCologne. Over on the left, above its verdure-\\ncrtsted hill, rises Burg Rheineck, rebuilt in 1832", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 315\\nupon the ruins of the old fortress that, dating\\nfrom the eleventh century, had again and again\\nbeen leveled and re-reared by opposing hosts.\\nOn the other side again, stately New Ahrenfels,\\nerected above the ruins of an ancient robber-\\ncastle, looms up proudly in all the bravery oi Jin\\nde siecle fagade and tower.\\nThus on and on we glide adown the broaden-\\ning stream. Citadel, castle, cloister and con-\\nvent, ancient and modern, ruined and restored,\\never rising before and sinking behind us. Each\\nhas its own thrilling record, each its baptism of\\nfire and blood, from away back into the shad-\\nows of antiquity. How impossible to realize\\nthe conditions through which primitive man has\\nstruggled up into the comparative peace and\\ncivilization of the present; yet through all, na-\\nture smiles serenely and still with ceaseless flow\\nthe limpid Rhine moves on.\\nThe pleasant and popular village Remagen,\\nthe Roman Rigomagus, now comes into view\\nto the left in the valley of the Ahr. At a little dis-\\ntance beyond, in abrupt contrast to stern castles\\nand ancient ruins, appears a beautiful modern\\nchurch of Gothic architecture, built in 1859\\nupon a slate rock, and dedicated to St. ApoUo-\\nnaris. Tiiis is another celebrated resort for pil-\\ngrims the head of the saint is preserved within\\nand works, so say the faithful, many miracles.\\nA little further on, a rounded arch of quaint\\ndesign, all that is left of some antique edifice,\\nstands out conspicuously on the left, three hun-\\ndred and forty-four feet above the river. Tra-\\ndition calls this Roland s Areli, though who\\nRoland was, save that he may have been one of\\nCharlemagne s paladins, and why he had an\\narch, there are few to-day who know and still\\nfewer who cjre. The view from this ruin is", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "316 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nconsidered the most incomparably beautiful of\\nthe whole Rhine.\\nBut what is this that towers aloft so high\\nacross our very path and seems to loom in gran-\\ndeur up to the steps of heaven itself? Tis thy\\ngrim steeps, Oh Drachenfels, and, set thereon,\\nthe remnants of that mighty pile which ancient\\ndragon and medieval engine could scarce over-\\nthrow. And now, Just below that rviined mag-\\nnificence, there rises, grand and massive, a new\\nDrachenburg, in haughty defiance to modern\\nenergies. What now the monster housing here\\nwithin thy secret caverns, and where the\\nhorny Siegfried that shall fi?e to lay the\\nravener low? Impassive in its solid majesty it\\nrears itself above, while far below we round its\\nbase and seek the current that shall bear us on.\\nThere on the right, volcanic Siebengebirge,\\nand yonder to the left, the ancient fortifications\\nof Godesberg, rent and dismantled, lift up their\\npeaks and pinnacles. And now the hills fall\\nback once more; the railways veer farther in-\\nland and across the country we see wide,\\nstraight highways stretching from point to\\npoint, lined by beautiful trees. We are ap-\\nproaching Bonn, well known to all the world.\\nIt was a flourishing town in the days of Con-\\nstantine the Great, and so it is to-day. Oppo-\\nsite the city, the river Sieg with many islands,\\nflows into the Rhine from the east, and an ex-\\ntensive forest stretches along its banks.\\nThe Rhine still broadens and now makes\\nanother sweep to the east and then winds again to\\nthe north. The shores on either side are here flat\\nand little varied, but studded thickly with thriv-\\ning villages and lovely farm districts. Fair and\\nunobstructed lies the level prospect to the clear\\nhorizon. We seem to have emerged from the", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 317\\ndread domain of grim-visaged War, into the\\nsmiling plains of Peace from the narrow con-\\nfines of mediaeval environment again into the\\ncomplex and diversified atmosphere of modern\\nexistence with range illimitable.\\nSuburban villas and pleasure-gardens begin\\nto appear soon long lines of streets and ave-\\nnues with compact rows of massive buildings\\nand a sea of roofs pierced by spire and cupola\\nabove all of which, in sublime dignity, rises the\\nineffable beauty of the great cathedral.\\nMaking our way to the docks and stopping\\njust above the two bridges, one a pontoon, w^e\\ndisembark at Cologne and our voyage is over.\\nYet ever welling from its snowy source in the\\ndistant Swiss-Alps, and hurrying along to its\\ndestination in the far North Sea, the beautiful\\nRhine flows on.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXV.\\nThe brief glimpses one may obtain in a con-\\ntinuous journey from the German frontier across\\nHolland to a near seaport, are not sufficient to\\nafford any great knowledge or wide comprehen-\\nsion of this country and its people. Still one\\nmay lay up a store of pleasing recollections even\\nin this short transit, as 3 find after bidding fare-\\nwell one morning to the lovely and interesting\\ncountry of Germany, taking train again at\\nCologne and speeding away over level areas\\ngrowing continually lower and more watery as\\nwe approach Holland. It rains gently and the\\nwhole outlook is indeed aqueous and monotonous.\\nBut the little stations at which we pause are\\nso trim, the more considerable towns so\\nthriving, and everywhere the people are so\\nkindly and cordial, that one is loth to leave them\\nbehind. They all smile and ejaculate \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Guten\\nTag or \u00e2\u0096\u00a0Glueckliche Reise, if they chance to\\ncatch one s eye. On this journey I note again\\nthe foreign rendering of the news and gum\\nfiends of our own land. At each station news-\\ndealers pass along outside the train, the doors\\nof which open out on and are at an exact level\\nwith the station platforms, and carry or push\\nbefore them light racks on which are displayed\\na small assortment of newspapers, rarely any\\nother reading matter. Refreshment venders\\nhave neat little tables, often with canopy to\\nshield from sun and rain, and resting on trucks\\nthat are easily wheeled along. These tables aie\\ntastefully set out with fruit, little cakes, various\\n818", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0330.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 319\\nsausages, beer, wine and so forth, and are often\\nadorned with flowers. One rarely meets a sand-\\nwich on the continent. Everything about the\\ntables, cutlery, glass and the like, is spotless and\\nshining. Passengers looking out, can readily\\nmake their wants known and be served by the\\nwhite-aproned, white-capped attendant, either\\nthrough the wide-open door, or the lowered\\nglass upper-half but if not desiring anything,\\nare not annoyed in any way by solicitations, or\\nby having diverse wares dumped upon their\\nknees by the passing peddler. Sometimes a\\nyouth or maid runs along with either a pitcher\\nof hot cafe-au-lait or bouillon which are very\\nrefreshing and cost about two cents a cup.\\nBy and by we cross the frontier a civil-ap-\\npearing officer looks into our compartment and\\ntakes our word for it that we have nothing duti-\\nable in our bags. A little placard in English in-\\nforms us that the Custom-House officers may al-\\nlow the passengers to Keep -with a capital K,-\\ntheir pi ices if the latter should prove to have\\nany difficulty in descending. This is kind and\\nhumane, surely, and though I, personally, do not\\nprove to have any difficulty in descending, I\\nstill do not leave my place, as my heavy luggage\\nhas all gone on ahead. So we roll onward into\\nthe domain of the Dutch.\\nHow flat it all is; not an elevation to be\\nnoted in all one s range of vision. I have never\\nseen anything just like it. I have been on the\\ngreat plains of Iowa and Kansas, but there,\\nthere was no water in the landscape the one\\nwas all a great expanse of waving corn, the\\nother, it then being early winter, a boundless\\narea of gray, wind-swept waste. I have also\\nseen the marshy lowlands of southern Alabama\\nand Louisiana, where there was no lack of water,", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0331.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "320 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nbut there the effect was of being in a great hol-\\nlow below the surrounding surface; in a sort\\nof huge bowl as it were, of which the sea-wall\\nof the gulf in one direction, and the higher,\\nsolid ground of the remaining circumference, con-\\nstituted the rim, so to speak. But here to-day,\\nit seems as if we were running along on a mere\\ncrust, cut in all directions by the canals, and\\nliable at any moment to give way and plunge us\\ninto the bottomless deep. How strange to think\\nwe are actually beholding the dykes and\\nditches of which we have heard from our\\nveriest childhood. This reclaimed land, it is-\\nsaid, is remarkably fertile. Vegetation looks\\nextremel} flourishing, and graceful trees with\\nfeathery foliage are especially noticeable.\\nStrange, outlandish names begin to appear on\\nthe signs and placards that meet one s eyes,\\nwhile funny little villages and quaint rural\\nscenes come into view, all on a dead level, with\\nnothing more striking in the way of elevation,\\nthan the huge wind-mills that slowly move their\\nheavy pinions. Queer, little, square-built boys\\nand girls, with thick, stiff garments, odd head-\\ncoverings and wooden shoes, occasionally look\\nup at us from the highways, and we get glimpses\\nof short,thick-set men and women at work about\\ntheir hay-ricks and low cots, behind screens of\\nluxuriant, but mainly dwarfed greenery. But\\nthe chief characteristic of the scene, is water,\\nwater not in winding rivers or picturesque\\nlakes, but in the straight, seemingly endless\\ncanals that stretch off monotonously in all di-\\nrections.\\nI am not sorry when we come to our destina-\\ntion, the little town of Vlissingen, where I step\\nout wondering, among the Dutch folk.\\nFor the first time in mv wanderings, I find", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0332.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 321\\nmyself unable to speak, after a fashion, the\\nlanguage of the country; but alas, I have no\\nDutch, so fall back on English. The first offi-\\ncial I accost does not speak this tongue, but evi-\\ndently recognizes the sound, as he disappears\\nand returns with some one who does speak it.\\nI mention my desire for a cab; am told there\\nare none there at present but that I can take a\\nboat, or can hire a guide and walk. Finding\\nthe distance short, I elect to do the latter, and.\\nmy guide, who I find speaks German, slings my\\nbag over his shoulder and off we start.\\nThe rain has ceased and the sun shines warmly.\\nThe flat, green fields stretch off to the right, the\\nlevel, glittering sea to the left, for here we are,\\neight hours straight and steady sailing, from\\nthe English coast, and no land is visible upon\\nthe horizon. The main city lies beyond the\\nrailway station and past these meadows.\\nWe strike into a wide, paved path stretching,\\nlike the canals, straight onward, and fringed at\\nintervals by small shade trees, under which are\\noccasional seats, whereon here and there sit\\nladies reading. A wagon-road lies on one side\\nof the path, a canal on the other. We see a\\ncasual cow off in the fields and we meet one or\\ntwo phlegmatic-looking pedestrians, but a spell\\nof silence seems to lie upon panorama and peo-\\nple. My guide seems to be infected by it, for\\nhe vouchsafes only a t/a, gnaedige Frau^ or\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0JSTein, gnaedige Frau,^ to mj attempts to ex-\\ntract information, so finally I too yield to the\\ntaciturn spirit and we walk mutely on.\\nReaching my hotel, my man recovers enough\\nof speech to voice a desire for sixty cents. I\\nmention to my hostess, who speaks English, my\\nsurprise that he should be familiar with United\\nStates money whereupon she explains that", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0333.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "322 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ncents is also Dutch money, though one cent\\nDutch is worth only two-fifths of one cent\\nUnited States, so I disburse German coin to the\\nrequired amount which the lady exchanges\\nfor the current coin of the kingdom, and my\\nguide meanders slowly and silently away.\\nAnd now begins anew a struggle with a for-\\neign currency this time oi florins, gulden and cents,\\nbut thanks to the decimal system so prevalent on\\nthe continent, one soon acquires the new names\\nand proceeds as before.\\nMy hostess I regret to learn, is French instead\\nof Dutch, and so not typical, either in manner\\nor habitation, of this odd people.\\nShe leads me through a roomy hall, up a spa-\\ncious staircase, into a remarkably cheerful room,\\nlarge, well-equipped, with a broad, double glass-\\ndoor in the middle of the front, overlooking\\nanother canal immediately before the house,\\nseparated from it only by a wide, paved road.\\nMore canals reach hither and thither everywhere,\\nwith intensely green banks and bearing all sorts\\nof queer-shaped boats and still farther beyond\\nthe canals, the sparkling, open water of the\\ngreat harbor.\\nRetiring to an inviting couch, the first double\\nbed that I have seen except in museums, since I\\nleft home, I soon succumb to the assaults of the\\nsandman and drift into dreamland.\\nVlissingen is a flourishing town of some seven-\\nteen thousand inhabitants, a well-known port\\nand bathing resort.\\nMy i3lace I find is somewhat in the suburbs,\\nbut trams and boats are near at hand so I\\nsoon start out to see what I can see.\\nAt one extremity of the town a fine promenade\\ncalled the North Sea Boulevard, one and one\\nquarter miles long, commands a boundless sex-", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0334.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 323\\nview over the broad sands white as snow. Here\\nis situated the Grand Hotel of Baths, crowded\\nwith resorters. The long line of bathing-ma-\\nchines on wheels, drawn up out of the tide after\\nbathing hours and resembling nothing so much\\nas a row of United States prairie schooners,\\nlooks rather odd, as if the pox^ulation was about to\\nemigrate overland. Back of the wide stretch of\\nsnowy sand, is the high dyke or levee, along the\\nthe broad top of which I walk, gazing off first\\non one side over the silver sea, then off on the\\nother across the flat, flat landscape and the quaint\\nlittle city spread out in rows along the verdant\\nbanks of the intersecting canals.\\nEverything in the far distance inland, seems to\\ndip down into the sea, so monotonously does the\\nunvarying flatness of the level land, meet the\\nmisty horizon. Compact, ancient, trim little\\nhouses, closely set together, line the narrow\\nstreets that follow the banks and quays along\\nthe ditches, while masts and ship-riggings\\nappear in surprising contiguity to roofs and\\nchimneys.\\nDescending from the sea-wall, I find my way\\nalong cityward in the lower areas, crossing in-\\nnumerable bridges, passing motley groups of\\npeasants, and sailors of apparently all nations,\\nand meeting many a wholesome-looking Dutch\\nserving- maid, in her work-a-day costume of neat,\\nclose, white cap and tidy, short-sleeved, ankle-\\nlengthed, blue linen gown bearing on her\\nshoulders a peculiar wooden yoke, from which\\ndepend long hooks which help sustain the two\\npails of water she seemes to be always carrying.\\nAnother novel spectacle to the foreigner, is the\\nlittle dog-team often met with, trotting along the\\nquays. Sometimes there are as many as six or\\neight dogs to one cart; they usually travel on", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0335.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "324 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nvery harmoniously and obediently, but occasion-\\nally a diversion arises. It was my fortune to\\nwitness a decided diiference in opinion between\\nsome of these sturdy and efficient servants, as I\\nstrolled along.\\nOn the opposite side of the quay a team of\\nsix canines was dogfully doing its duty, hauling\\na large cart of milk-cans and attending strictly\\nto business, while the driver, a dumpy little old\\nwoman in wooden shoes and a singular cap,\\nwalked calmly at the side. In front of a large\\nedifice with high steps, another dog-team had\\npaused evidently for rest, and its various mem-\\nbers were lying on the pavement lolling their\\ntongues while their mistress sat on the steps\\ngossiping.\\nAs the first team drew near, the other dogs\\npricked up their ears, growled derisively, and\\napparently threw insulting remarks at the ap-\\nproaching ones. These, before so complacent,\\nbegan to grow restive, to toss their heads and to\\nutter low rumbles of remonstrance. Still came\\nthe jeers and floutings thicker and faster, from\\nthe more fortunate beasts resting in the cool\\nshade, toward their unlucky fellow-creatures\\nstill sweating in the harness, until mortal dog\\ncould stand no more and there was a wild rush\\nof the industrious team, pell mell, upon their\\nrecumbent taunters. These sprang to the com-\\nbat, and for a few minutes the landscape was\\nobscured by a wild storm of flying cans, carts,\\nmilk, butter and green groceries, mingled with\\ntufts of hair, broken straps, madly waving tails\\nand glittering teeth, while all sorts of dog-pro-\\nfanity and Dutch peasant objurgations, re-\\nsounded upon the air, as the excited mistresses\\nstrove to quell the tumultuous confli(!t.\\nWith a hearty laugh, I left them to their fate\\nand went on my way.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0336.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXVI.\\nThere is little pretense of artistic effect, arch-\\nitectural or otherwise about the streets of Vlis-\\nsingen, though there is an ancient church or two,\\nan interesting museum of antiquities, and along\\nthe Quay Bellamy are some fine buildings rising\\nbehind the tree-shaded promenade on either side\\nand a few modest specimens of memorial art\\nmeet one unexpectedly, as a barrier of but a few\\nfeet high completely obstructs one s outlook,\\nsuch an absence is there within the city of\\nany vantage-ground from which to overlook the\\nscene. I feel a strange sort of helplessness as I\\nwalk along, caused I suppose, by my ignorance\\nof the language and by the before mentioned\\nsensation that I cannot conquer, of the instabil-\\nity of what should be solid earth, but what may\\nbe, and but for the Hollanders indefatigable\\nexertions would be, a rolling waste of wide\\nwaters.\\nThus I go meditatively on, making devious\\nturns as fancy beckons, when I am suddenly\\nbrought to a standstill against a blank wall. I\\nlook about finding no egress except behind me,\\nand seeing nobody of whom to inquire, except\\ntwo or three stolid individuals in appearance\\nhopelessly Dutch. I naturally retrace my steps\\na few paces, but where to go? Across this canal\\nor along that one? On which side is the sea,\\nfor it is not visible at this depth wherein. I\\nstand? Where is the sun,? Ah, its vanishing\\nrays are gleaming yonder, that must be seaward;\\nso I proceed in the opposite direction, wonder-\\n325", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0337.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "326 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\ning who of these foreign-looking beings can\\nunderstand the speech of the alien wanderer, I\\naccost one; alas, no English, no French, no Ger-\\nman; I pass on; by and by I try again, same\\nresult. Still going, I cross abridge that seems\\nfamiliar; lam encouraged; but which way to\\nturn? Now 1 see approaching a man in naval\\nuniform, the style of his get-up showing him\\nto be an officer. Owing to the daily plying of\\nsteamers between Holland and England, I feel\\nsure that a naval officer must know English, so\\nI again make inquiries. My surmise proves\\ncorrect and 1 am politely informed to my aston-\\nishment that I am almost at the very door of\\nmy hotel, it being only around the next corner\\nand along the next canal, though invisible from\\nour point of view. So I am again housed in\\nsafety.\\nAs the sun pours into my chamber next morn-\\ning, I am dazzled by the glorious radiance of his\\nbeams reflected from the shining waters stretch-\\ning off from almost directly beneath my window.\\nRising to shut out the too great brilliance, I\\nhear a sort of high, attenuated melody that ex-\\ncites my curiosity so 1 look forth and behold a\\ndetachment of Dutch soldiers keeping step to\\nthe odd music and marching sedately past wear-\\ning tall, quaint caps and grave uniforms of\\nsomber blue. They do not look as if they were\\nmuch exhilarated by any prospective pomp and\\ncircumstance of war; and no wonder, poor fel-\\nlows; for what an unceasing conflict have they,\\nthe Hollanders, had with nature and with man,\\nto preserve their identity as a country and as a\\nnation. At this time great preparations are\\nmaking for the coming coronation of their young\\nqueen, who attains her majority the next year.\\nAmong other things is a great, glittering, golden", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0338.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 327\\ncoach, in which she is to ride on that important\\nday. All of these proposed details come to pass\\nlater, in successful splendor, as h^r 3routhful\\nmajesty assumes the reins of her kingdom,\\ngo out afterward into the radiant atmos-\\nphere which yet has no corresponding warmth\\nin it, and take train for Middlt-bourg, having\\npreviously been coached by my hostess as to\\nprice of ticket and so forth. So I hold out my\\nexact fare to the conductor, but to my dismay\\nhe asks me something in Dutch I do not under-\\nstand, of course, and inquire successively, Do\\nyou speak Englif^h? \u00e2\u0080\u00a2Sprechen Sie DeuUchV\\nand Parlez-vous FranmisV but receive in an-\\nswer only a smiling and apologetic shake of the\\nhead. Here a kindly Dutch lady across the aisle\\nnotes our perplexity and comes to the rescue in\\nEnglish. She discovers that the conductor\\nwishes to know if I would like a return ticket\\nwhich is somewhat cheaper. I take advantage\\nof the opportunity and this being settled,\\nthanks to the courteous Dutchwoman, I turn\\nmy attention to the watery, windmilly view.\\nMuch of the time we run along between con-\\ntinuous green lanee that, hedged in, shut off any\\noutlook. On the other side, I suppose, are\\nmore ditches.\\nArriving at Middlebourg, I find a provincial\\nfair or kermess in progress, which is interest-\\ning beyond telling. This takes place annually\\nI learn, at this season and continues ten days.\\nTo this on certain days of the week, repair the\\npeasants and peasantesses in full regalia of\\ntheir national costumes, which are picturesque-\\nin the extreme. They are very diverse, though\\nI am told each province has its distinctive style\\nthat is handed down, cut, colors and texture^\\nfrom generation to generation.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0339.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "328 ONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nThe women are much handsomer than the\\nmen, having beautiful, clear, white complexions\\nand noble, intelligent faces. They all wear the\\nclose, white coif, which reveals a little of the\\nhair on the forehead but comes down snugly\\nabout the ears. A few have frills falling over\\nthe neck or standing away from the face. Each\\nis adorned by strange, metal ornaments, whether\\nbrass or gold I did not ascertain, which are fas-\\ntened apparently into the very head itself, at\\nthe temples, close to the eyes, over which the\\nornaments dangle or wav^, according to their\\nconfiguration. Some are like flags, others spir-\\nals and still others like beads. So far as I\\nobserved, the arms were invariably bare and the\\nskirts in no case hid the feet. The colors of the\\ncostumes are very modest and tasteful, usually\\na dark rich brown, plum or wine colored main\\ngarment, with delicate blue, lavender or green\\naccessories and with vests or chemisettes of\\nheavily-wrought, snowy lawn or cambric. They\\nwear numerous adornments in the line of neck-\\nlaces, brooches and chains, and the fingers of\\nmany are loaded with rings. It looks particu-\\nlarly odd to see tiny tots of four and five years,\\ntricked out in these antique and elaborate cos-\\ntumes.\\nThe men s garb is not so picturesque. Dark,\\nshort jackets, knee-breeches, long hose, low buck\\nled shoes and close-fitting head gear, a sort of\\ncompromise between hat and cap, are the chief\\nfeatures of every costume, with little attempt at\\ndecoration.\\nMiddlebourg is the capital of Zealand and,\\naccording to statistics, has nearly nineteen\\nthousand inhabitants. Some of its promenades\\nare beautiful, though of course, all on a dead\\nlevel, and its architecture is nobly quaint and\\nremarkable.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0340.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 329\\nThe City Hall, situated in the center of the\\ntown, is a magnificent and uniquely imposing\\nstructure, built by Charles the Bold in 1468.\\nMore remote from the busier parts of the city,\\nis an ancient abbey, dating from the twelfth\\ncentury. To reach this, one follows an angling,\\nnarrow way seeming scarcely wide enough for\\ntwo carts to pass each other, but surprisingly\\nclean, with queer little houses standing close to\\nthe pavement; so close indeed that the passer-by\\nmay get glimpses of occasional exquisite inter-\\niors, some of the rooms being paved and lined\\nup the sides to various heights, with lovely blue\\nand white tiles, while copper, brass and pewter\\ngleam out of unexpected corners, all burnished\\nto a painful degree, and the shining windows\\nare gay with colored blooms.\\nThis street leads into a sort of wide orna-\\nmental area still inclosed by the little houses,\\nbut across which, filling in the opposite side, is\\na queer, old Dutch manor-house of 1590, wonder-\\nfully and astonishingly ornate. Off at the right,\\nan arch through the solid mason-work of the\\nencircling houses, leads into an extensive court\\npaved with brick. Here too an unbroken wall\\nof buildings, but of a heavier, loftier order, sur-\\nrounds the place, and is so high that a nearly\\nperpetual twilight pervades the scene. A\\nponderous erection in the center is designed, I\\npresume, for a decorative fountain, though no\\nwater is visible. The great tower of the abbey\\nlooms up at one hand. Perfect silence reigns.\\nIt is the very abode of peace, or is it death?\\n^ot a footfall echoes but my own as I cross the\\ncourt and pass through a corresponding arch in\\nthe opposite wall, coming out on the other side\\nof the abbey, which looks grim and forbidding.\\nI do not enter, but go on down a pleasant street", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0341.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "330\\nONE WOMAN WANDERING\\nand soon find myself on the way to the station^\\nalong an avenue of some pretentions and impor\\ntance, architecturally and commercially, and\\nshaded by handsome trees.\\nThe quaint wares of the Dutch country are\\nset forth attractively in great profusion, and the\\nquainter people throng the thoro^ighfares, pass-\\ning placidly along. I am unable to resist the\\nnovel displays at every hand and finally pause\\nat an entrancing window to wonder and to ad-\\nmire. The proprietor comes out to welcome me\\nand proves to be a very attractive young man of\\nfair skin and large, candid, blue eyes. He\\nspeaks English perfectly and is most cordial and\\npolite to the foreigner, giving much courteous\\nand acceptable information. I indulge in a few\\nmodest purchases and learn that his name is\\nMynheer F. B. Den Boer, which truly is deli-\\nciously Dutchy.\\nThen I go on to the station and soon find my-\\nself once more in Vlissingen.\\nUnfortunately I can not tarry in this singu-\\nlarly interesting country, so, London being the-\\nnext stage of my journey, I inquire next day as\\nto means of transportation to the docks. Again\\nI am told to my amusement that I can take a\\nboat, this seeming to be as matter of course a\\nproceeding here, as elsewhere to take a tram.\\nHowever, I start out piloted by a friendly Ger-\\nman porter; crossing the -road, we go a few\\nsteps along the canal and lo, here is the point of\\nembarkation.\\nA bustling little steam-launch pufi^s up and,\\nfor the almost infinitessimal sum of ten cents\\nDutch, or four cents United States, the porter,\\nmy bags and myself are conveyed over the\\nsmooth, dark waters of the canal, to the other\\nside of the town, where is the slip of the Zea-\\nland Steamship Company.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0342.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDEEING 33 1\\nThough I found transportation rates so ex-\\nceedingly small, my expenses otherwise in Hol-\\nland did not show that prices here are particu-\\nlarly low, and I am told that living in this\\ncountry is really very expensive, very much\\nmore so than in France or Germany.\\nBut now I must bid it all good-bye, so turning\\nmy back upon the low-lying shores, I board the\\nwaiting vessel and soon we steam out of the har-\\nbor, with the prow of the good ship Duitsch-\\nland set forward toward the white cliffs of\\nAlbion.", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0343.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXVIT.\\nMy lone sister, we have journeyed long in\\nspirit together. The record is lengthy, yet the\\nhalf is not told. Far enough away, indeed, am\\nI still from my ain countree, and\\nMany a day\\nMust roll away\\nere again I set foot upon my native shores.\\nHow I returned across the tossing channel, on\\nto rare old England with its lovely lakes and\\nscented hedge-rows how I wandered thence into\\nstern Scotland, through its tangled glens, its\\nheathery slopes, its mountain and its moors, past\\nStirling bold, up to Edinboro Town; thence\\nacross to gray Glasgow and out once more upon\\nthe mighty main, is yet unuttered and un-\\nwritten.\\nI would not exhaust your interest nor hold\\nyou till your eye be strained and your ear\\nweary. Shall we here wave adieus and drift\\napart as\\nFair laughs the morn and soft the zephyr blows;\\nWhile proudly riding o er the azure realm,\\nIn gallant trim the gilded vessel goes?\\nAs for the rest, shall it be written hereafter?\\nWho can tell.\\nTake up the tale for yourself, dear sister, and\\nbring it to your own conclusion thus will you\\nbe more fully edified and entertained; thus will\\nyou lay up for yourself stores of refreshing rec-\\nollections for that season when you sit solitary,\\n332", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0344.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "ONE WOMAN WANDERING 333\\nBetween the dark and the daylight,\\nWhen the night is beginning to lower.\\nThus may you prosper; and in whatever jour-\\nney you may undertake, above all in the wide,\\ndevious and but once traveled journey of life,\\nboth now and forever may God be with you.\\nFINIS\\nThe author would explain that wherever quotations\\nfrom foreign poems, placards, inscriptions and so forth, have\\nbeen given with quotation marks, the translation so used is the\\nauthor s own.****", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0345.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "W \u00c2\u00a95\\n17", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0346.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0347.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "V\\nV^^*/ ^^V\\n\\\\:i^%V .^^^!k\u00e2\u0080\u00a2i^ .y^i;^*.\\\\. .4?^\\no V^^ ^o ^?^V\\nJ^-:./^. .v^\\\\jak:.V y. :4:\u00c2\u00ab:./^*\\nVol -o ^Xo^", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0348.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2798", "width": "1771", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0349.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS\\n020 678 742 9\\nLNV,\\nhi*i\\n^K,", "height": "2963", "width": "1898", "jp2-path": "onewomanwanderin00harm_0350.jp2"}}