{"1": {"fulltext": "SB\\nTHE FARMERS GARDEN\\nAND\\nIts Management\\nPublished by\\nJOHN T. TEAT\\nPrice 50 Cents.\\nhull pendent Press. Csrrdington", "height": "3096", "width": "1812", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "Class\\nST595\\nBook\\nTza\\nGopyrightN\\nCOPYRIGHT DEPOSIT", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "vUv\\njf armer s $arfc en,\\nAND ITS\\nMANAGEMENT.\\nj{ ^Practical Suicie to Success-\\nful Sardentngj\\nAztflTH\\nflotes On Injurious Insects,\\nTHE LAWN\\nfind the Galtare ol Flowers,\\n...BY..:\\nJNO, T. TEKT,\\nit\\n1896-8.", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "TWO COPIES RECEIVED,\\nLibrary of Cofigp98%\\nOffleo of the\\nMAR 1900\\nKsgistor of Copyrights\\n56010\\nCopyrighted, 1898,\\nBY\\nJNO. T. TEAT,\\nCARDINGTON, OHIO.\\nSECOND COPY,", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "Author s Preface.\\nIn writing this treatise, it has been the author s earnest\\nendeavor to treat the subject chosen in a plain, practical\\nand concise manner, easily understood by all.\\nWhile aware of the fact that there are many excellent\\nworks on the garden and its management, a great many\\nof them do not meet the requirements of the beginner, they\\nbeing written in too professional a manner, not easily un-\\nderstood b}^ those who are T oung in this pleasant and prof-\\nitable employment gardening.\\nThe author believes this work will be found complete in\\nits way, simple in construction, plain and practical, and\\ntrusts it will be of assistance to you in supplying your re-\\nquirements; and, too, we hope you will find some interest\\nin its pages whether you are an amateur or a professional.\\nSuch has been our earnest endeavor, and we trust it will be\\nrecognized as a trustworthy guide.\\nAfter a careful study of its pages, even the most inex-\\nperienced should be able to care for the Kitchen Garden, be\\nit an acre, or more, or less. And as a beautiful, well-kept\\nlawn, with its beds of flowers, adds much to the attractive-\\nness of rural as well as city homes, we have added notes on\\nthe preparation of the one and the culture of the other, so\\nthat you may not only be supplied with an abundance of\\nthe finest vegetables and fruits, but also enjo} r the delights\\nof home life through its surrounding attractions.\\nThe notes given on the care of the lawn and the culture\\nof flowers are fully as trustworthy as those given on the\\ncare of the Garden, and if followed, success will be reason-\\nably assured.\\nAnd now, kind reader, we commend it to your care, hop-\\ning you will make an aquaintance agreeable to all. So,\\nwishing you great success in your labors, we beg to remain\\nyour faithful and humble servant,\\nJohn T. Teat.\\nCardington, O., Jan. 3, 96.", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "Gardening is an occupation\\nfor which no man is too high\\nnor too low.", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "The Farmer s Garden\\nAnd Its flanagement.\\nINTRODUCTORY.\\n^^HE GARDEN is generally regarded as one of the\\nCJv most insignificant parts of the farm frequently more\\n,iu of a nuisance than anything else only to be tolerated\\nyjl^ to satisfy the whims of the wimen folks, while if\\nA cared for as it should be we would find it to be one\\nof the most profitable plots of ground on the farm.\\nSo firmly grounded is this nuisance idea in the masculine\\nmind that no effort is made to cultivate a really good one,\\nand thereby ascertain the real value of a generous supply of\\ncrisp and delicious vegetables on the table throughout the\\nyear. Do not be content with raising the common varieties\\nonly, but have a place for everything and everything in its\\nplace.\\nThis not being the case, we may be pardoned for scolding\\na little and for taking the part of the too often sadly neg-\\nlected farmer s garden, when it should be a tempting feat-\\nure of every home. There is no country in the world cap-\\nable of producing a greater or better suppky of table sass\\nthan is ours. Every family in the land should be constantly\\nsupplied with the best vegetables and fruits, which is of\\ngreat advantage to health, and reduces the grocer s, butcher s\\nand doctor s bills. In writing this treatise we shall endeavor\\nto give a few practical points to aid 3 r ou in making a start.\\nThe limited number of vegetable and fruit gardens worthy\\nof the name found in connection with rural homes is realty\\nastonishing when it is remembered that the farmer has facil-\\nities for gardening, if properly used, to distance all compe-\\ntition, and thereby not only improve the health of his own\\nfamily but also add man}- a dollar to his income. He has\\nhis choice of soil as well as fertilizers and ample horse power\\nto aid him in tilling the soil; and yet, of all gardens, the\\nfarmer s garden is too often the most sadly neglected and\\nvalueless.", "height": "2993", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "6 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nQuite true, farm life is very busy at the season of the\\nyear when the garden calls for attention, and this is perhaps\\nthe reason for the neglect shown in the farmer s garden.\\nThe family of the town can find a supply on the market but\\nthis is quite often of inferior quality; but the farmer s fam-\\nily often has to go without even these, when the very best\\nof everything could be had in abundance throughout the\\nyear by a little effort being put forth on the part of the\\nfarmer. All quick-maturing crops require much richer soil\\nthan those that require a longer season in which to reach\\nmaturit} L-ate peas, like marrowfats, etc., will yield a\\ngood crop on moderately rich soil, without manure, while\\nthe early varieties that mature in May require an abundance\\nof plant food easily available early in the season. The same\\nis true of most all, if not all, crops; the shorter the time in\\nwhich they mature the better chance they must have.\\nIn all crops that require to be thinned, every day s neg-\\nlect after the plants are large enough to thin reduces the\\ncrop. This work should be done promptly as soon as you\\ncan get hold of them with thumb and finger. The same is\\ntrue of all delicate crops that require hand-weeding as they\\nshould be cleaned out as soon as the row can be seen. A\\ndelay of a few days or even hours will double the work and\\nthe loss of a week s time may ruin the crop; then, too, a\\nwet spell may give the weeds such a start that it will be\\nimpossible to save the crop.\\nThe time to destroy weeds is before they come up, while\\nthe mere stirring of the soil as soon as dry enough after a\\nrain destroys most of the weeds that have started, besides\\ngiving your crop a start over the few weeds that may be\\nleft. Make it a rule that no weed, no, not even the finest\\nspecimen, shall go to seed on your garden, or better still,\\non your farm. The average garden ripens enough noxious\\nseeds every season to supply the entire community. Judg-\\nment must be used in covering seeds of various kinds, and\\nthe amount of soil and compacting must be regulated ac-\\ncording to the season.\\nSeeds sown early require light covering and little or no\\npressing of the soil, while midsummer planting requires more\\nsoil over them, which should be packed firmly about them.\\nAll crops which come up small and require hand-weed-\\ning should be sown in straight and very narrow drills. If\\na crooked furrow is made it will require very much more\\nhand- weeding to keep them clean, compared to what there\\nis when a straight drill one inch wide receives the seed.\\nWhere land is to grow a second crop, as in the case of\\nearly peas, beans, spinach, potatoes, etc. everything should", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT\\nbe on hand to do the work at once and take advantage of\\nsuitable weather that may come. All work must be done\\npromptly and at just the right time or the labor will be\\ngreatly increased.\\nIn nearly all cases the hoe and the rake can be used to\\nadvantage before the seeds come up, and right over the row,\\ntoo, if carefully used. The weeds will thus be kept in check\\nand the moisture retained for the future use of the crop.\\nI rather like the idea of keeping the ground covered with\\nvegetation throughout the season, as there will be more\\nencouragement to keep it clean and in the very best con-\\ndition, and looking its very prettiest. Whenever possible\\nsow a crop of rye for plowing under in the spring, if the\\nplowing is not done in the fall. Or sow it anyway.\\nThe Location.\\nThe kitchen garden should be located as near the house\\nas possible and should not be located on another road half\\na mile from the house, thereby compelling the gude wife\\nto travel all over a quarter-section every time she wishes a\\nfew vegetables for dinner or supper. But when located near\\nthe house it should be enclosed by a poultry tight fence, or\\nI am afraid someone will say something not suited for pub-\\nlication; for biddy seems to know just where the hills\\nare that contain the choicest varieties. In choosing a loca-\\ntion I would prefer a plot in the shape of a parallelogram;\\nthat is, about twice as long as wide, provided the land that\\ncan be appropriated admits of this shape.\\nThis plot should contain about an acre, more or less, to\\nsuit your own individual requirements; but an acre will\\ngive sufficient space for everything from radishes, onions,\\nlettuce, etc., to potatoes, corn and small fruits. On the\\noutside next the boundaries a border of about ten feet wide\\nshould be left for the growing of the smaller vegetables; on\\nthe sunny side, those that mature earl)- in the season and\\non the northernly side those varieties that require shade.\\nBefore going farther, I will sa3^ that the garden should\\nbe as nearly level as possible, or if sloping, not so much so\\nas to be in danger of being washed by heavy rains. If\\nsloping, it should be toward the south or east, and should\\nbe so situated as to have a good surface drainage, for with-\\nout this, or under-draining, it is almost impossible to raise\\nearly or fine vegetables at a profit.\\nThese are to be considered the most essential points in\\nselecting a plot for a garden. Of course, a rich soil is to\\nbe desired, but if that is deficient the gardener can, by the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "8 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nuse of manure, remedy a deficiency of this kind in a few\\nseasons, while he cannot make a favorable location for early\\nvegetables on a north slope if he should endeaver to do so\\nfor a lifetime. If it were possible, I would have no fence\\naround the garden, as it is usually more of a nuisance than\\nanything else, being overgrown with weeds, and a waste of\\nground where it is not a necessit}^. But if a fence is neces-\\nsary, have a good one so as to keep out poultry as well as\\nstock.\\nThe gardener has no use for a scratching hen, cats, dogs,\\netc. in his beds of plants, for these are his most aggravat-\\ning enemies. A scratching hen seems to know just where\\nthe choicest seeds are planted, while cats and dogs like to\\nroll in a bed of plants.\\nIn plowing the ground in early spring I would not plow\\nmore than is needed for the first planting, and the remainder\\nwhen the soil has become more dry and friable, as it will\\nnot then become packed by the heavy spring rains which\\nare sure to come about this time of the year. For the first\\nplanting the ground should be plowed and the seeds sown\\nas soon as the ground can be prepared the hardier varieties\\nsuch as peas, radishes, onions and lettuce, will even stand\\na slight frost, and while adapting their growth to the weather\\nwill be ready to smile a welcome on the first warm spring\\ndays.\\nSometimes we cannot wait for the soil to be in the ver}^\\nbest condition, as in a drought, when we wish to plant a\\nsecond crop. In this case it must be brought into as fine a\\ncondition as possible, b}- rolling and harrowing. The\\nformer is often neglected in the average garden.\\nThe small fruits should all be on one side of the garden\\nwhere they will not interfere with the working of the rest\\nof the garden in spring or fall. In planting, the width of\\nthe cultivator and swingle-tree must be taken into consider-\\nation.\\nIf the soil has been heavily manured, the rows may be\\nplanted as closely as will admit of cultivation and allow a\\ngood supply of sun and air to reach the roots, excepting\\nmelons, cucumbers, squashes, etc. which should have am-\\nple room to make a spread and sun themselves.\\nBush beans, dwarf peas, etc. can be sown as closely as\\ntwo feet, while corn, pole beans and other tall-growing crops\\nshould be at least three feet apart each way, while small-\\ngrowing crops such as onions, lettuce, radishes, spinach,\\netc. can be sown as closely as one foot apart, not only to\\nadmit of working but to allow sun and air to reach the\\nroots.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 9\\nThe Soil of the Garden.\\nSoil on which some cultivated crop has been grown is\\npreferable to sod for starting a garden, as it is more easily\\nbrought into a fine condition in earl}- spring. Another fault\\nis that grass is also one of the hardest weeds to destroy\\namong small crops such as onions and radishes. Sod is also\\noften infested with grubs, which prey upon young tomato,\\ncabbage and vine plants. Whether new land, or in the old\\ngarden, it is best to put all coarse manure on in the fall and\\nplow it under as soon as the ground can be cleared.\\nThe land should be plowed in the fall and left as plowed.\\nA plow with a straight mould board should be used for fall\\nplowing, as it leaves the moulds more on edge and therefore\\nmore to the action of the frost, which will be of great bene-\\nfit to heavy soils that are late in drying out in the spring,\\nwhich is of great advantage, as ever} kind of products can be\\ngotten in when the proper season arrives, while it also adds\\nmuch to the appearance of the garden. A few days too\\nlate may mean failure. The gases arising from the decay-\\ning of the manure also tends to lighten the soil instead of\\nbeing wasted in the air, as when in heaps or in the barn-\\nyard. Such manure, when applied in the spring, makes dry\\nsoil still dryer, and unless plowed well down where it will\\ndo the young plants little or no good, it would .burn them\\nup if the season should be hot and dry.\\nBy plowing time in the spring this manure will have be-\\ncome thoroughly mixed with the soil and will be worked\\nthrough the soil, thus affording an abundance of plant food\\nin all stages of growth. Manure is the food of all plants,\\nand you must afford an abundance of available plant food if\\nyou expect good returns from your vegetable or fruit garden.\\nGarden soil sometimes becomes surfeited with stable ma-\\nnure. In this case cover with lime, use commercial fertil-\\nizer, or plow under a crop of clover or other soiling crop;\\nUnfortunate is the gardener who fails to see the adapta-\\nbility of his soil which must in a certain degree decide the\\nvalue of the crop he grows. A poorly adapted soil is a great\\ndrawback to successful gardening.\\nPreparing the Soil.\\nThe time of plowing varies to meet the requirements of\\ndifferent soils, seasons and localities; and every piece must\\nbe considered by itself. Means should be taken for starting\\nthe plow as soon as circumstances permit.\\nIn dry soils and well drained localities the plow can be\\nused much earlier than on heavv soils. Nothing is gained", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "10 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nby plowing heavy soils until they are in a proper condition,\\nbut rather the reverse, for they will become lumpy and it\\nwill be late in the season before the lumps can be pulverized\\nand brought into a condition to impart nutriment to the\\ngrowing crops.\\nIf the plowing has been left till spring such soils should\\nbe plowed when in that condition of moisture to insure mel-\\nlowness and fine tilth. To determine when soil is in the\\nthe right condition for plowing or cultivating, take a portion\\nin the hand; if it packs and sticks to your fingers it is too\\nwet, while if it crushes hard it is too dry. In both cases it\\nwill be hard and lumpy, and will take a long time to bring\\nit to the condition necessary for good results.\\nA loose, well pulverized soil allows the air to circulate\\nfreely among its particles, and the spreading roots of the\\nplants reach out and draw their sustenance from a more ex-\\ntended surface than in soils which have assumed a compact\\nform. Seeds sown on a compact soil cannot be expected to\\nproduce other than a sickly growth of plants. It should be\\nborne in mind that a good crop on one acre is better than\\nhalf a crop on two acres. The production of crops is not a\\nmatter of chance as many may suppose, but depends on the\\ncare bestowed upon them. While it may not be possible to\\nchoose such soil as is desired, much may be done in the way\\nof artificial improvement by draining, manuring, etc.\\nThe soil should be well drained unless of such a nature as\\nto render this unnecessary. Muck, manure and other fer-\\ntilizers should be abundantly used. A sandy loam is one of\\nthe best soils we have, being rich in vegetable matter. Al-\\nluvial soils are well adapted to vegetables but not to small\\nfruits. One of the best soils we have is a rich, gravelly\\nloam. Such soil retains moisture longer than a sandy soil\\nand is adapted to the growth of a greater variety of crops\\nthan any other and when mixed with vegetable matter is\\none of our most valuable soils.\\nAnother point of importance is the fining and compacting\\nof the soil as soon as plowed in hot, dry weather. In pre-\\nparing soil for garden crops during summer it is best not to\\nwait to do a whole day s plowing, but every few hours to\\npulverize what has been plowed, and for this purpose there\\nis nothing better than the plank drag. Evaporation is so\\nrapid in the hot summer days that land will often dry out\\nin a single day so that a good seed bed cannot be formed\\nunless the soil is pulverized immediately after plowing.\\nTools.\\nAlthough not really necessary, it is of great advantage to", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 11\\nhave an assortment of tools for thoroughly preparing the\\nsoil, and to facilitate the labor of caring for the crop and\\ndestroying weeds and insects.\\nWhere the garden is cared for as it should be there will\\nbe little or no chance for the weeds to start. While there\\nis generally an assortment of tools on ever} 7 farm suitable\\nfor use in the garden, I will give a list of those adapted to\\ngarden use.\\nFirst is the Plow. For breaking the ground in spring\\nuse a common two-horse plow. This puts the manure down\\nas desired and takes a generous slice at each cross. So long\\nas the fresh manure does not come in direct contact with\\nthe plants it will be hardly possible to put on too much, but\\nit is best to use nothing but thoroughly decayed manure.\\nIt is also best to cut a narrow furrow when plowing, as then\\nthe manure becomes more thoroughly incorporated with the\\nsoil. Always keep your tools bright, sharp and clean, as it\\nis much easier to use a bright, sharp hoe or plow; then too,\\nthe work is done in a much better style than where dull,\\nrusty tools are used. And, it will go to show that you too\\nare also sharp and bright.\\nNext to the plow comes the Harrow, which should also\\nbe sharp; it is then a splendid tool for making a fine seed\\nbed on which to sow seeds, or for setting out small plants.\\nWhere more land has been broken than is needed for im-\\nmediate planting, it is a good plan to run over it with the\\nharrow, keeping it clean and in good condition for planting,\\nas you can take advantage of a shower to set out cabbage,\\ntomato, celery and other plants while the soil is wet. Com-\\nmence planting when, or just before, the rain begins so that\\nthe plants will receive the benefit of the shower.\\nNext comes the Roller, which is very hand} 7 for pulveriz-\\ning the soil when hard and lumpy. A small hand roller\\nabout three feet long is very convenient for rolling in small\\nseeds when sown by hand. The value of compacting the\\nsoil about freshly sown seed, especially in summer, cannot\\nbe over-estimated.\\nThe Wheel Hoe is a very convenient tool in the caring\\nfor crops and should be one of the best obtainable. A good\\nimplement does not throw the dirt over small plants, and\\nthe rows can be worked closely, so that it is unnecessary to\\ngo over the rows with a hand hoe after the plants have been\\nthinned. Keep all cutting parts bright and sharp. To ob-\\ntain the best results with this tool you should go over each\\nrow two or three times so as to work the soil over thoroughly.\\nWhen kept sharp and bright it will surprise you to note\\nhow easy it is to run one, and how much better w r ork is", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "12 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\ndone; and a man can hoe an acre a day when the soil is in\\ngood condition.\\nA Seed Drill is a very convenient implement, but is quite\\nexpensive and not practical in the garden when we consider\\nthat it is not often that there are more than one or two rows\\nsown to an} T one kind of seed, and this can be done in almost\\nthe time it would take to set the drill. The combined drill\\nand hoe is a delusion and a snare. Don t experiment. If\\nyou want a satisfactory tool don t have any combinations\\nabout it.\\nAnd, too, you will need a good strong garden line, long\\nenough to reach across the garden. This will be very use-\\nful to assist in laying out the garden neatly. A good line\\nwell cared for will last for years, and will be one of the re-\\nquisites for the garden as there must be no hit or miss work\\nif you expect to succeed, as every plant must be in the row.\\nWhere it is necessary to keep a few inches from the row to\\navoid cutting the plants that are out of the row, either the\\nsoil will not be worked up to the row as it should be, or has\\nto be gone over with the hand hoe, which consumes con-\\nsiderable time where much ground is under cultivation.\\nThe Hand Hoe. This tool is so well known and univer-\\nsally used as to need no directions as to its use. It should\\nbe kept sharp and bright, however, as it will then not only\\nbe much easier to use but will also do much better work.\\nWhen sharpening a hoe, grind or file on the front instead\\nof the back. It will then slip into the soil much easier.\\nThe Steel Rake. There is no tool of more real value in\\nthe garden when kept well in use than the steel rake. The\\nbenefit is three-fold. Pulverizing the soil for an inch or\\ntwo in depth prevents the escape of moisture from below,\\nincreases the growth of plants and destroys the weeds before\\nthey can make an appearance. The mistake of supposing\\nthat stirring the soil is not necessary unless there is a vis-\\nable sign of growth of weeds to be destroyed should be\\nabandoned. The surface should not only be kept clean, but\\nfrequently broken up and mellow. The pulverization of the\\nsoil should be kept near the surface not only to insure safet)r\\nto the roots of the plants, but because the moisture in the\\nsoil is retained better than by deeper mellowing. The rake\\nalso enables the laborer to work much faster than with the\\nhoe, and if used as often as it should be will pass over the\\nground with remarkable- ease. (When through using the\\nrake or hoe hang them up, for they are dangerous things to\\nstep on). The space between the rows of cabbage, beans,\\npeas, celery, etc., ma} thus be kept clean with little labor.\\nGarden Trowels, Spades, etc. are also very useful in the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT Id\\ngarden and must have care, and an occasional call on the\\ngrindstone.\\nLaying Out the Garden.\\nAs before stated, a parallelogram is the best shape for a\\nkitchen garden, as it renders more easy the preparation of\\nthe soil, and also the cultivation of the crops. On the out-\\nside next the boundaries a border of about ten feet should\\nbe left for the growing of the smaller vegetables, which\\nshould be sown in beds; those on the sunny side for the\\nearly ones and those 011 the northern^ side that require\\nshade. The rows (for the seeds in these beds should never\\nbe sown broadcast), should run with the slope of the land\\nwherever possible and should be the long way of the plot.\\nIn winter while there is plenty of time before spring work\\ncomes on, the year s work should be planned; what varie-\\nties to plant, the quantities of each required, in what part\\nof the garden to plant each variety so as to avoid the cross-\\ning of the different species, etc. and thereby spoiling each\\nother. Then, too, if the soil is of different quality in differ-\\nent parts of the garden, it should be planned so that the\\nheavy and light soils shall be occupied by such crops as\\nbest succeed on the respective soils. Ease of cultivation\\nand the rotation of crops should also be brought into con-\\nsideration. The smaller varieties which require hoeing\\nshould be together; also those that mature at the same time,\\nand those that require horse culture, making it much easier\\nto prepare the soil for the succeeding or second crop. When\\nla} r ing out a new garden, when it comes to the second season,\\nrotation should be especially considered, as no two crops of\\nthe same varieties should be raised on the same ground two\\nsucceeding seasons as each consumes certain properties of\\nplant food from the soil, so this change must be made so\\nthat the soil may be kept in a good state of cultivation.\\nReference must also be made to the kind of food each\\nplant requires, as for instance, potatoes and strawberries\\nshould not succeed each other, as each requires considerable\\npotash for their development; therefore does it not stand to\\nreason that where the soil has produced a crop of one it\\nwould of necessity develop but a small crop of the other if\\nplanted in close succession, if the deficiency has not been\\nsupplied? Neither should cabbage follow oats in direct suc-\\ncession, as the latter seems to poison the soil for the growth\\nof the former.\\nIt is much cheaper to work the garden with the plow\\nthan with the spade, so where sufficient land is to be had a\\nlarge garden is much better, and can be cared for propor-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "14 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\ntiouately much cheaper, than a small one, and your supply of\\npotatoes, sugar corn, squashes, melons, as well as smaller\\nvegetables can be had in profusion. In planting, sow a\\nvariety of seeds so that the different tastes may be supplied;\\nnot only your own, but other people s as well.\\nNo fruit trees of any description should be allowed to\\ngrow in the kitchen garden, as they are a source of contin-\\nual annoyance, while in time their spreading roots and tops\\nrender them a nuisance. They not only injure the vege-\\ntables, but they themselves are injured by plow and spade.\\nFruit trees should be planted separately where they may\\nreceive proper attention and not be an impediment to the\\ncare of the garden.\\nIt is of great importance to rapid work and good garden-\\ning that all these points should be arranged in the mind, or\\non paper, before work begins in the spring. The plan, if\\nkept, would be quite beneficial to the operator the following\\nseason as it indicates where each variety was grown the\\nseason before.\\nCompost.\\nEvery gardener should have a generous suppty of this, as\\nit is greatly superior to coarse manure for garden use,\\nespecially in making hills for melons, cucumbers, tomatoes,\\nsweet potatoes, in celery trenches, etc. It should be stacked\\nin the autumn and thoroughly decomposed.\\nIt is composed of hen manure, hog manure, barnyard\\nscrapings, ashes, leaves, bean and pea vines, or green weeds;\\nin fact anything that will decay and make fertilizer, of\\nwhich 3 r ou really cannot have too much. If made in the\\nfall, as recommended, so much the better, as it will then\\nbecome thoroughly decayed before needed; but it must not\\nbe exposed to the weather, as this will cause it to leach out\\nand much of its value to be lost. To prevent this it maybe\\ncovered with old boards, or may be in some out building.\\nFork over occasionally to prevent burning and promote de-\\ncay, always keeping the heaps flat on top, and moist by giving\\nit a soaking whenever possible with washing suds, liquid\\nmanure, etc.\\nTo make a good compost the heap should be one-half soil\\nor ashes. Night soil may also be made into a valuable fer-\\ntilizer by putting it into the compost heap or by mixing\\nwith soil or coal ashes. You really cannot make too much\\nmanure on the farm.\\nManure.\\nIt is a good thing to make manure and a better thing to\\nsave it. Manure is the food of plants, and you cannot ex-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 15\\npect good returns from your garden or fields unless the\\ncrops are supplied with nourishment. Therefore a good\\nsupply should either be made or otherwise procured, as the\\ngarden should have a heavy dressing at least two years out\\nof three.\\nThe supply may be largely increased by pulling the cab-\\nbage stumps, pea vines, or other refuse, as fast as the crops\\nare gathered and throwing on the manure heap. This should\\nbe near the house so that the ashes and slops may be thrown\\nupon it to increase the amount and promote decay. Where\\ntall weeds, corn stalks, etc. are thrown upon the heap it\\nshould be forked over whenever possible, as this will pre-\\nvent burning and loss, and will greatly facilitate rotting\\nand handling when needed; besides, they will not interfere\\nwith the cultivation of small plants as they would other-\\nwise do.\\nBarnyard manure well cared for contains all the plant\\nfood elements required by plants. It not only brings per-\\nmanent fertility to the soil with the potash, nitrogen and\\nphosphoric acid which it contains, but it renders the stored\\nup materials more available, improves the condition of the\\nsoil, makes it warmer, and enables it to retain the moisture.\\nPoultry droppings are very valuable.\\nIt may be composted with muck, leaves (these are also\\nvery valuable) or other absorbents kept dry and stored in\\nbarrels and used in the hill. Never mix with ashes or the\\nammonia which it contains will be lost. Do not allow it to\\nheat. It may be dissolved in water and used in watering\\nplants, when its value will be quickly seen.\\nGarden soil sometimes becomes surfeited with manure.\\nIn this case use phosphate, lime, or sow part at least to\\nclover or rye, which when plowed under will supply plant\\nfood in another form. When plowed, broadcast lime on\\nthe surface, giving it a good dressing. Lime and phosphate\\nshould not be used the same season as the lime will destroy\\nthe phosphate, thereby incurring loss.\\nIn applying manure to land, care should be taken to spread\\nit evenly, breaking the lumps to pieces. However, this\\nshould not be done long before plowing, especially if the\\nweather be hot, dry or windy, for if it is, the manure will\\ndry, its properties evaporate, and loss accrue. The custom\\npracticed by some of piling the manure in small heaps all\\nover the ground is a bad one, as the heavy spring rains\\nwash the valuable qualities into the ground under the heap,\\nwhile the soil between the heaps does not receive the least\\nbenefit therefrom; then, too, the soil under the heaps will\\nbe wet and soggy until late in the season. By all means", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "16 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nspread it as fast as drawn from the pile. Another way and\\none which I prefer, is to plow the land and spread the ma-\\nnure, and then harrow it in. In this case the manure must\\nbe very fine. Where it is coarse the former is the best way.\\nThe most valuable elements of manure cannot be meas-\\nured by the cord or ton, as they are the liquid and gaseous\\nelements, which are the most difficult to retain. They are\\nthe first to escape, and escape unnoticed through such an\\neasy outlet.\\nFertilizers.\\nThere is no doubt that a great deal of these are wasted\\nby man} 7 who use them; wasted, not because the soil does\\nnot need them, but for want of proper knowledge of how to\\napply them and the special fertilizer required for the par-\\nticular soils, plants, etc. Different soils do not require the\\nsame kind of dressing, and expensive experiments may be\\nmade in different localities, while so confused will be the\\nresult that they will prove of little or no value.\\nFirst, we must learn what the soil needs before we know\\nwhat to appl3 7 second, we must know what each plant\\nrequires before we can fertilize intelligently. Hit or\\nmiss experiments prove nothing and are useless. It\\nis important to go at anything intelligently or failure may\\nresult, and none are more likely to fail than the tiller of the\\nsoil. Before using chemical manure he must learn that one\\nsoil is rich in potash, another in nitrogen, another in phos-\\nphoric acid, and another in lime; to apply any of these to\\nsoils where there is already an abundanee, will onty be a\\nloss to the owner.\\nWe must begin our studies of fertilizers and soil require-\\nments at the bottom, and then our progress will be rapid,\\nbecause our work will be intelligently done. In using com-\\nmercial fertilizers it is best to sow them between the rows\\nand then work them around the plants during the season\\nwith the cultivator or hoe.\\nProcuring Supplies Seeds, Plants, Etc.\\nDuring the winter evenings it is a good idea to look over\\nyour stock of seeds and make out a list of your requirements\\nfor the coming season. Take your wife into the scheme\\nwith you, and procure seeds to secure a variety to cover the\\nentire season, flower as well as vegetable; but do not en-\\ntertain the idea that you need the contents of a seed and\\nplant establishment, for this is a mistake. A few varieties\\nare best.\\nHaving the season s campaign all settled, the next thing\\nis to know what is to be grown, the varieties best adapted", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 17\\nto the locality and the soil of your garden, and where to\\nobtain them of the best quality. If you have saved them\\nyourself you are comparatively safe, but if the} were pur-\\nchased they should not be used until thoroughly tested un-\\nless you know they came from a trustworthy source. It\\ndoes not pa} to try to economize in the purchase of seeds,\\nnor does it pay to use poor seeds on any part of the farm,\\nas it is a waste of time, labor, ground, manure and patience,\\nas the inferior vegetables will scarcely cover expenses, for\\nnowhere on the farm is blooded stock of more impor-\\ntance than in the seeds sown.\\nIn making out your order stick to the varieties known to\\nbe good and that suit your soil and local climate, especially\\nif grown for private use, for the greatest pleasure is derived\\nfrom testing the fruits of your own raising with the appe-\\ntite engendered through their cultivation. In some cases I\\nthink it best to purchase your supply of seed and plants\\nfrom a reliable dealer who has his reputation at stake and\\nwho will fill your order with nothing but the best.\\nThen, it is not advisable to try all the novelties you see\\noffered in gaud} colors and glowing terms, for general use,\\nbut rather buy those that you know to be good and suited\\nto your requirements. Many of the novelties are not suited\\nto all climates and while they may do well in one locality\\nthey may from one reason or another be worthless in an-\\nother. This rule also applies to older varieties. For this\\nreason we will not name any particular varieties, but will\\nleave this to the choice of the gardener. Then, too, many\\nnovelties are new only in name; this is a fraud practiced by\\nsome seedsmen. In selecting, choose those varieties that\\ndo well for your neighbors, while if you desire, include a\\nfew novelties for trial, but do not depend on them for a\\nmain crop until you have given them a fair trial, or disap-\\npointment may follow. It is a very interesting matter to\\ntest a few of them, watching their growth, testing their\\nquality, etc., and there is occasionally some money to be\\nmade through their culture, but don t go in too deep.\\nRaising Plants.\\nWith a garden of an acre or so it will be found econom-\\nical to raise your own supply of plants. For this you will\\nneed hot beds, cold frames and beds of rich fine soil, if it is\\nproperly done. It is best to locate these in a sunny nook\\nwliere they will be sheltered from the cold winds and also\\nnear the cistern and manure pile. These beds must be well\\ndrained as dampness is very injurious to young seedlings,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "18 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nand will also take up a considerable amount of heat, which\\nshould go to the forwarding of the plants.\\nIt is advisable to sift the soil through a coarse sieve as it\\nthen makes a fine seed bed for the young plants. As soon\\nas the temperature has fallen to 75 or as soon as the\\nsoil is only just warm to palm of the hand, the soil should\\nbe sprinkled and when it has dried off a little it should be\\nraked thoroughly and the seeds sown.\\nI prefer sowing in drills as much stockier plants will thus\\nbe secured. The drills should be about four inches apart;\\nthis will allow light and air to reach the roots and will per-\\nmit of an occasional cultivation. Seeds will not grow if\\nplaced too deeply in the soil. Some seeds like cabbage,\\nbrusselsprouts, etc., should be about one-half an inch deep,\\nwhile smaller seeds like celery should be simply pressed\\ninto the soil. A good rule is to cover the seeds about five\\nor six times the diameter of the seed. A light covering\\nfirmly pressed down is all that is required.\\nAbout ten weeks before the last frost is expected is about\\nthe time to sow seeds of tender plants, while eight weeks\\nwill answer for the hardier varieties. The plants will then\\nbe ready for the warm days and showers of spring. The\\nplants in the beds should be aired on every warm clay that\\nthey may not become drawn and spindling. They should\\nnot be allowed to crowd each other in the beds, but should\\nbe thinned freety or they will be severely damaged.\\nAnother point to be remembered and that is, to not keep\\nthe soil too damp or the plants will damp off. Water only\\nwhen the soil is dry on top. If you are troubled with the\\nlittle white worms in the soil of your plant beds try soot\\nwater, tobacco tea, lime water, or water with hard water.\\nThe last is the best remedy I am acquainted with. As\\nplanting time approaches the beds should be left open,\\nwhenever possible, that they may become sufficiently hard-\\nened so as not to miss the covering when removed to the\\nopen air.\\nWhere a few extra early plants are wanted they can be\\nremoved to the earliest beds when the cabbage or other\\nhardy plants have been set out, and the sash put on again.\\nWhile the hardy plants may be set out as soon as danger of\\nfrost is past, the tender plants such as tomato, egg and\\npepper plants should not be set out until the thermom-\\neter stands at sixty degrees all night, or when the swallows\\nbegin housekeeping. Good thrifty plants well hardened\\nbefore transplanting are necessary for a good crop.\\nSeeds for reasonably early plants may be sown in cold\\nframes in the same manner as in the hot bed. These will", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 19\\nnot have the advantage of the heat caused by the fermenting\\nmanure, depending solely on the heat of the sun and the\\nprotection afforded by the sash for their development. They\\nshould be sown about two weeks later than when the hot\\nbed is used, and the plants will be ready for transplanting\\ntwo weeks later than those raised in heat. As soon as\\nwarm enough to dig and bring them into a fine condition\\nseed beds should be made in a warm, sunny nook in the\\ngarden, for the sowing of late cabbage, cauliflower, celery,\\netc. Where no beds are at hand or where only a few plants\\nare required, the} can be grown quite satisfactorily in boxes\\nset in a sunny window in a warm room.\\nFor this purpose some boxes (tobacco boxes are nice for\\nthis) should be procured, and filled with some fine rich soil;\\nafter the seeds are sown keep them warm and moist, not\\nwet. Do not allow the plants to become crowded. Trans-\\nplanting the young seedlings at least once, is quite essential\\nto their proper development. This should be done before\\nthey become crowded in the seed bed. They should be set\\nfar enough apart to allow them to attain some growth and\\nmake them stocky. Care should be taken not to bruise the\\nplants or break the roots. To prevent this, handle care-\\nfully. Moistening the soil before removing the plants will\\nbe of assistance to you in preventing this. In removing\\nplants to the open ground this is quite essential.\\nBefore going into other details it will be well to say a few\\nwords about\\nWatering and Transplanting.\\nThe most suitable time for transplanting is in the after-\\nnoon or evening or on a rain}- day. But if done on a hot,\\ndry day, water thoroughly and shade for two or three days.\\nNew roots will have now formed and all danger from trans-\\nplanting is past. Nature never intended for a plant to be\\ntransplanted and care must be exercised in so doing.\\nDon t crowd the roots into a hole not half large enough\\nto receive them, but make the hole large and deep enough\\nto hold the roots with the soil adhering to them. Make\\nthe soil fine and mellow, and the hills large. With one\\nhand place the plant in position in the hole, while with the\\nother pour water into the hole. If properly done the mel-\\nlow soil will fill in about the roots and hold the plant in\\nposition, so that, if freshly taken from the bed it will scarcely\\never wilt, even if transplanted in hot sunshine. When the\\nwater has settled away, fill around the plant with mellow\\nsoil. If treated in this way the soil will not bake around\\nthe plant as it would otherwise do. Never pour water on", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "20 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nor around newly set plants, for it is almost sure to cause\\nthe soil to bake or the sun to scald and injure them. As\\nsoon as they have become established, loosen the soil around\\ntheir stems, always keeping the soil loose, clean and mellow.\\nIf a little hen manure is worked into the soil around the\\nplants, it will greatly increase the growth as well as the\\nproductiveness of the plants.\\nIn regard to watering the garden, I would say that more\\nharm than good results come from beginning to water a\\nplant and then not keeping it up till the necessity ceases.\\nAs soon as the soil dries out after watering it should be\\nstirred with a hoe. Water thoroughly or do not water at all.\\nThen, too, it is not natural for a plant to receive water\\nwhile the sun is shining. Therefore do not sprinkle the\\nfoliage or damages will result. Water on cloudy days or\\nin the evening. Instead of watering (and this takes con-\\nsiderable time and labor), I prefer to keep the soil loose and\\nmellow around the roots. For this purpose there is nothing\\nbetter than the steel rake before mentioned. This not only\\nfills the place of watering, through evaporation of the\\nmoisture from below, but serves to keep the soil free from\\nweeds and in good condition for the succeeding crop, where\\ntwo crops are grown on same ground in one season; and it\\nis much easier done.\\nSaving Seed.\\nWhen saving seed of vegetables as in any other crop the\\nvery best should be selected. The best heads of lettuce,\\nthe best beets, cabbage, ears of corn; in fact the best of\\neverything.\\nCare must also be exercised to keep each variety pure, as\\ncrossing with other varieties is ofttimes detrimental to\\nquality. All seed must be well cleansed, cured, labeled,\\ndated, and put away where there is no danger from freezing,\\nmice, dampness or very warm heat.\\nBy continual selection in one direction a strain is estab-\\nlished that is perhaps better suited to your locality than\\nany you can buy, while some varieties such as peas, beans,\\npotatoes, etc. are best when procured from the north.\\nWhere the runts of crops are saved for seed year after year,\\nthe quality of the seeds will deteriorate and the crop will not\\npay expenses and gardening don t pay^. From this rea-\\nson we so often hear the complaint, my lettuce isn t fit to\\neat; my cabbage don t head; my sweetcoru has lost its\\nflavor. All these and other complaints too numerous to\\nmention are heard from the discouraged and disappointed\\ngardener. In selecting seeds always keep a point in view.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT\\nHot Beds.\\n21\\nThese are very valuable appliances to the gardener s out-\\nfit whether he gardens for market or for his own private\\nuse. All plants that require starting in heat ma} r be sown\\nin the hot bed. An ordinary sash is three by six feet.\\nAllowing a slant of 6 inches from back to front the width\\nof the frame is easily calculated. A good bed (and no other\\nshould be made), must be at least 3 feet 6 inches\\ndeep and well drained. For material 2 inch stuff for corner\\nposts and good inch boards for sides.\\nCedar or cypress boards are best as they last longer.\\nMake the rear posts 3 feet 6 inches long and the\\nfront ones 36 inches. After nailing all together let the\\nGROUND.\\n-^:zMa/vOrei^-\\nEnd view of Hot Bed showing interior.\\nframe down 2 feet 6 inches into the earth, facing the south\\nso as to catch the rays of the sun. Where several sashes\\nare to be used the posts should be set firmly in the ground.\\nWhere seeds of tender plants and hardy ones are to be sown\\nin the same frame, or a portion of it used as a cold frame,\\na partition must be placed across the frame so as to give\\nthe separate parts proper treatment. Where the sashes\\nmeet, 2x3 inch strips should be nailed across the bed for the\\nsash to rest on and an inch strip placed down the center of\\nthis scantling to keep the sash in place when moved back\\nand forth.\\nIf a warm day or two comes in January or February the\\npit may be dug out 2 feet 6 in. deep, the frame put in place,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "22\\nTHE FARMER S GARDEN\\nmanure banked against it, and leaves or litter put in to\\nkeep out the frost. Care must be exercised in the con-\\nstruction of the bed as your future success depends on this.\\nThe sash should fit the frame closely and the glass should\\nhave one-quarter inch lap shingle fashion. In preparing\\nthe manure use horse manure (hen manure will do but is\\nnot so reliable), not more than six weeks old, containing\\nconsiderable straw or leaves.\\nThis should be forked over and if dry, watered and al-\\nlowed to stand a few days to heat, then it should be forked\\nover again, when it will be ready for use in a few da} r s.\\nThe reason for forking: it over is to obtain a uniform heat\\nThis style te recommended for a wet location.\\nwithout which your bed would prove a failure. In placing\\nthe manure in the bed be sure to spread it evenly and tread\\nit down firmly. This is of great importance and unless\\ndone one portion of the bed will heat more quickly than the\\nother, causing the soil to settle unevenly. The soil used\\nfor the bed should be dry and a rich sandy loam. After\\nthe bed is complete put on the sash and bank up with\\nmanure.\\nDo not sow 3 7 our seed until the temperature is about 75\\nor 8o\u00c2\u00b0, at which point it should be kept. One point of im-\\nportance is, that you use dry soil in makhig your hot bed,\\nand that the first heat shall pass off before sowing the seed,\\notherwise your seed and labor will be lost and r our hot\\nbed prove a failure. Be very careful about the temperature,\\nkeeping it even and moist as possible and not too high\\nnever over 85 It is advisable to keep a thermometer in", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 23\\nthe bed at all times when in use. The hot bed should not\\nbe idle but should be occupied throughout the entire spring\\nand early summer. A spent hot bed affords an admirable\\nplace for storing celery in the winter. A good hot bed\\nsash and frame well painted and cared for will last for years.\\nSoil for hot beds may be shoveled into the old bed and\\ncovered with leaves and the shutters or old boards laid over\\nall. This keeps hard frosts out and permits the soil to be\\nworked early in the spring.\\nThe Cold Frame.\\nThe cold frame is a valuable appliance in the spring and\\nis simply a hot bed minus the heating material. The frame\\nmay be of any size from one to four sash. Each sash should\\nbe 3x6 feet, the same as for hot beds previously mentioned.\\nThe frame should be 16 inches high in front and 2 feet\\nhigh in rear, and should be constructed of inch and a half\\nplank. Cedar or cypress is best for this purpose on account\\nof their durability.\\nWhen two or more sash are used, braces four inches wide\\nmust be placed across the frame from back to front to hold\\nthe sash in position and strengthen the frame. On these\\nbraces a strip must be nailed to separate the sash and cause\\nthem to run true. On each side or end of the frame a strip\\nprojecting above the ends the thickness of the sash must\\nbe nailed to keep the sash in place.\\nWhen completed set upon the ground, in a sheltered\\nplace, and bank up with manure to keep out the frost as\\nmuch as possible. This should be done in March, and as\\nsoon as the weather will permit, or as soon as there is no\\ndanger of freezing in the frame, the plants ma}- be trans-\\nplanted to it from the hot bed. In this way the}- become\\nstocky and well rooted, and when ready to be set in the\\nopen garden can be moved without scarcely feeling the\\nchange. This is the place, too, to forward tomato, pepper\\nand egg plants. Here also many seeds may be sown and\\nbulbs started before set in the ground. Cauliflower, celery\\nand cabbage plants may be brought along to advantage in\\nthe cold frame. Here is also a good place to store celery\\nin the winter, but must be protected with litter to exclude\\nfrost.\\nThe cold frame, like the hot bed, must be thoroughiy\\ndrained. Seeds should be sown in the hot bed about ten\\nweeks before the last frost is expected, or in this latitude\\nearly in March. By the first of April the plants will be\\nlarge enough to be pricked out into the cold frame, and\\nthen shaded when the sun is warm, and watered. If the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "24 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nplants are set in shallow boxes when moved to the frame\\nthe}^ will be easier to care for. They should be kept as\\nwarm as possible while in the frames, but must be well\\naired in the middle of warm, sunny days. A few melons,\\ncucumbers, squashes, lima beans, etc. may be planted in\\nthe cold frame in sods or otherwise, and when the weather\\nhas become settled they may be moved to the open ground.\\nThey may thus be brought into bearing several daj^s be-\\nfore the regular crop is ready.\\nThose who have a cold frame but no hot bed, can procure\\nplants from a hot bed and care for them in the cold frame\\nand thus have their supply -when actually needed.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "What to Grow and How to Grow It.\\nWe will now endeavor to tell what to grow and how it is\\nto be grown, to the best advantage, so far as our knowledge\\nis concerned. Of course a great deal depends on the skill\\nand experience of the gardener, and on local conditions and\\ncircumstances which no one can foresee and over which we\\nhave no control.\\nWe have also placed the cultural directions alphabeti-\\ncally, so as to give this treatise a more S} T stematical appear-\\nance, and to render more easy the finding of any particular\\nsubject which you may have in mind. In consideration of\\nthis we will first give the instruction on the culture of the\\nArtichoke (Synara Scolymus). This is the French va-\\nriety, the flower buds of which are so highly esteemed as an\\narticle of food and is entirely different from those cultivated\\nfor its roots or tubers. Artichokes require good deep soil\\nsomewhat moist, and if of a sandy nature so much more in\\ntheir favor. Seed may be sown in the hot bed or cold frame\\nand removed into pots, so as to give plenty of room and air\\nuntil danger from frost is past, and then transplanted into\\nvery rich soil two feet apart each way. Or the plants may\\nbe raised in beds outside, but in that case the} will not be\\nlikely to bear the first season. In raising them in this way\\nthe seed should be sown in rows one foot apart early in\\nspring. When the seedlings have attained sufficient growth\\nthey should be transplanted to their permanent home. The\\nedible portion is the flower heads while in an undeveloped\\nstate, which will be produced from September until killed\\nby frost.\\nBefore planting the soil should be made very rich with\\nwell decayed manure. After planting water freely and\\nkeep the weeds in check. Late in the fall, before severe\\nweather, cut off the tops and cover the crowns with leaves\\nor litter to protect from frost. The second year the heads\\nwill commence to form about July. Where blanched arti-\\nchokes are desired, they can be obtained by cutting back", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "26 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nthe stems in July close to the surface, when the young and\\nfast growing shoots which grow up after cutting may be\\nblanched similar to celery.\\nThe undeveloped buds are cooked like asparagus. On\\naccount of its hardiness, easy cultivation and perennial\\nnature it should be found in every garden.\\nPlant the tubers of the Jerusalem variety like potatoes,\\nand sufficient is usually left in the soil to seed the ground\\nfor the next season. As the} do not yield satisfactory\\nafter three or more years, it is best to make a new bed every\\nfour years at most. To destroy the plants, plow the ground\\nwhen the} are about a foot in height; at this time the old\\ntubers have rotted and the new crop not yet formed.\\nWe think the Artichoke is far too little grown, which is\\nthe case with many other vegetables. The tuberous variety\\nis a great hog food when grown on a large scale, as they\\nare a cheap, healthy and nutritious diet on which hogs\\nthrive most splendidly.\\nAsparagus {Asparagus Officinalis). This delicious vege-\\ntable like many others is too little grown and but few peo-\\nple, comparatively speaking, know how delicious it really\\nis, while it is also one of the first to appear.\\nThe seed should be sown in drills one foot apart and one\\ninch in depth. Before sowing pour boiling water on the\\nseed and pour off immediately. This assists in sprouting\\nthe seed without injuring it, if done quickly. Care must be\\ntaken to keep down all weeds the first season as soon as\\nthey appear or they will choke out the young seedlings.\\nThe deeper the soil and the more manure used, the greater\\nwill be the crop.\\nThe soil best suited to the growth of Asparagus is a rich\\nloam inclining to be light, and the manure must be well\\nrotted. The most economical width for an asparagus bed\\nis five feet, which will take three rows, one down the center\\nand one down each side about a foot from the edge. Trans-\\nplant to their permanent home when growth begins in the\\nspring. This operation cannot be done too carefully. Set\\nthe plants not less than fifteen inches apart in the rows; lay\\nthe roots out regularly and neatly and about four inches in\\ndepth. The permanent beds should be prepared by stirring\\nthe soil deeply and should be thoroughly enriched. Where\\nthe subsoil is not naturally loose and mellow it should be\\nmade so by plowing or otherwise.\\nAfter the plants are well rooted give frequent and thorough\\ncultivation, drawing more soil up to the plants each time.\\nThe after cultivation consists simply in keeping the ground", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 27\\nclean, and in dressing with manure, salt and ashes in spring.\\nEarly the following spring spade in a heavy coat of manure\\nand a quart of salt to the square rod, and cultivate until the\\nplants begin to die. The third season the bed may be cut\\nover two or three times, cutting all the shoots no matter\\nhow small, ar\\ning as before.\\nThe next season, as well as all following ones, the bed\\nshould give a full crop and should be given an annual dress-\\ning as before, and should be well, but not deeply, cultivated\\nuntil the plants occupy the whole space. As soon as the\\ntops ripen the} should be cut and burned. Asparagus may\\nalso be set in the autumn if the bed is well drained so as to\\nprevent water standing on it. It is a good plan to protect\\nthe beds with strawy manure or litter, which may be burned\\noff in early spring before plants appear. Or if this cover-\\ning is worked into the soil, you will soon have a supply of\\nthis most delicious vegetable. The young shoots may be\\ncut for use the second season, but not very freely until the\\nthird, as before stated.\\nAfter the bed has become thoroughly established very\\nlittle attention is required except keeping the soil clean and\\nwell dressed. For this reason it pays to make a good bed.\\nAsparagus is a marine plant and requires more or less salt.\\nIt is also an old favorite, and was grown to perfection 200\\nyears before the Christian era. If prompt returns are\\nwanted it is best to purchase good two-year-old plants; for\\nin sowing the seed the grass will not be ready for use\\nuntil at least a year later.\\nIn selecting a location regards should be had to the pre-\\nparation of the remainder of the garden. All permanent\\nbeds and plantations should be together on one side of the\\nplot. So far as possible the soil should be plowed deepfy\\nand heavily manured, for this is one of those plants that it\\nis difficult to make the soil too rich for. Give the plants\\nplent}^ of sun. Shading them too much is a mistake\\ntoo often made. The distance given in setting the plants\\nis the limit; a trifle farther apart is still better. It is not\\nnecessary to set the plants very deeply four inches is suf-\\nficient, as the roots spread out and grow. See that the soil\\nis pressed firmly around the plants when set out.\\nAsparagus will thrive in almost au}^ soil, but a light, rich\\nloam is best and will produce a crop earlier than a clay soil.\\nThe best place for early potatoes is the best for asparagus.\\nThe deeper and richer the soil the better, but the idea that\\nsoil must be deeply trenched, and an extraordinary amount\\nof manure applied is now out of date. A southern slope", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "28 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nnear the farm building is a splendid place for asparagus.\\nDo not plant on gravelly soil.\\nThe commercial fertilizer best suited to this crop is iooo\\npounds of raw bone, and 200 pounds of muriate of potash\\nper acre. In case it rains soon after planting, rake the sur-\\nface carefully to destroy the weeds and to keep the soil\\nmellow. In doing this, care should be exercised to avoid\\ninjuring the tender shoots which may have started. Culti-\\nvate quite frequently. Do this as early as possible, for the\\nearlier the soil is stirred and the air let in, the earlier the\\ngrass will be ready for use. The natural tendency of\\nthe crowns is to grow near the surface; therefore care must\\ntaken to cultivate very shallow near the rows.\\nAfter cutting the stalks the bed should be forced to do\\nits best. This is done by covering the bed with fine manure\\nor compost, and as soon as cutting ceases and when the\\nstalks have grown again, work the manure into the soil.\\nThis gives the plants new vigor and strength to produce a\\ngood crop the coming season. A little salt sown on the bed\\nin the spring will assist in keeping down the weeds, stimu-\\nlate the grass, dissolve the plant food in the manure and\\nattract moisture. In cutting it is best to cut even with,\\nor a little below, the surface, using a pointed knife, which\\nis less liable to injure the unseen sprouts. Every shoot\\nhowever small should be cut, for the good of the next sea-\\nson s crop. If the asparagus beetle puts in an appearance,\\nprompt actions on your part are necessary. If a few broods\\nof young chicks or turkeys are allowed to inspect the patch\\na great many of the pests will be destroyed. If the old tops\\nare cut and burned in the autumn millions of eggs will be\\ndestroyed.\\nBeans Faba Every garden should have a good\\nsupply of these general favorites in it, as there is scarcely a\\nperson who does not enjoy them, either green or dry, while\\nthe}* have a history long and curious. Pliny says of them,\\nThe pod is to be eaten with the seed. From this we\\nconclude he was speaking of what we know as string\\nbeans. We also find them recorded in 2d Samuel XVII,\\n28, and also in Ezekiel IV, 9. Beans are divided into two\\nclasses dwarf and pole, and these subdivided into green\\npodded and wax podded.\\nBeans {Faba I T ulgaris). No crop responds to good treat-\\nment more readily than this. F. Vulgaris is the common\\ngarden variety. A succession of plantings ma}* be made\\nfrom May throughout the summer in rows 18 to 36 inches\\napart; in hills two inches deep, one foot apart, and three", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 29\\nseeds to a hill. A deeply tilled light, rich soil is best suited\\nto their growth. Being tender and very susceptible to cold\\nthey must not be planted too early. That soil which was\\nmanured for a previous crop is best suited to their growth.\\nFor an extra early supply a few may be sown in the cold\\nframe, and when the weather is settled they may be trans-\\nplanted to the garden when about three inches high.\\nThe snap varieties yield very abundantly and a drill of\\n75 to ioo feet in length will produce sufficient to meet the\\nrequirements of an average family, for if they are picked\\nclosely, as they should be, the plants will continue to bear\\nfor a considerable length of time. The pole variety will\\ncommence to bear about the time the dwarfs cease and are\\nsometimes preferred from the fact that they are more pro-\\nductive, and are more easily harvested.\\nIn selecting varieties care should be taken to select only\\nthose that are stringless, as they are much easier to prepare\\nfor use and are much more tender when cooked. Cultivate\\nthoroughly and draw the soil up to their stems twice during\\ngrowth. Never cultivate when wet, nor when in bloom, as\\nthis will greatly injure them.\\nPoi^E Beans (Phaseolus multiflorus} No garden, how-\\never small, is complete unless it contains a generous supply\\nof these real luxuries. Yet the work of poling them and\\nkeeping them trained is frequently such a perplexing one\\nthat they are often entirely discarded.\\nThe 7 may be planted in hills 36 inches apart, but must\\nnot be put in the ground until the middle of May, or when\\nthe swallows begin to nest, or when the trees are in full\\nleaf. The poles should not be more than 6 feet high when\\nset, or it will be inconvenient to gather the crop when ready\\nfor use; and, too, the vines will not begin to bear until they\\nhave reached the tops of the poles. If an} 7 fail to climb the\\npoles readily the} 7 should be twined around the poles, in the\\nsame direction as the others, or they will not take to the\\npoles readily, if at all. Pinching out the tips of the vines\\ntends to produce an earlier supply, but in my opinion di-\\nminishes the crop. It does not take long to secure a good\\nsupply of poles, and when once secured it is not much\\ntrouble to preserve them for a number of years. If kept\\nout of doors they should be stacked, tops downward. To\\nprevent the ends from rotting off they should be charred\\nslightly, or dipped in coal tar, which will preserve them\\nfor years.\\nThe poles should be set by the aid of the garden line, and\\nthe crooked ones turned into the row; this will give them a\\nneater appearance. Then put some compost around each", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "30 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\none, working it into the soil. Three or four beans may be\\nplanted around each pole, when the vines will cover them\\nin a short time and will present a beautiful sight, heavily\\nladen with their long handsome pods.\\nSome varieties do well when planted in the hills of corn.\\nIn this case the variety should be of a loosely twining na-\\nture. The pods should be picked while young and tender\\nwhen required for string beans, and by taking care to gather\\nthe older pods, the blooming and bearing will continue for\\na lengthened period. These are even more susceptible to\\ncold and to hot winds than are the dwarf varieties; and\\nwhere the hills are to be the soil should be raised as for\\nmelons. It is said that by setting the poles at an angle of\\n35 the tops to the north, the vines will bear earlier, the\\npods be straighter, and more easily gathered. As the ma-\\ntured beans or pods are all that is used, the season in the\\nnorth is too short for a succession; then, too, this is un-\\nnecessary for when the directions are observed a few poles\\nwill bear throughout the season. Of the snaps, the\\nwax varieties are the best, being the most tender, while\\nthe}^ are of the most superb quality.\\nThe Kidney or French Bean (Phaseolus nanus) is an-\\nother division of the common garden bean, which is very\\ntender and must have warm dry soil to succeed. They are\\ncultivated similar to the common varieties.\\nLimas. The principal point in the culture of these real\\ndelicacies is to get them started properly. This class of\\nbeans is really more liable to decay in the ground than the\\ncommon varieties unless the soil is warm and dry. There-\\nfore it is best to plant in a hill, slightly raised above the\\nlevel with a shovelful of light manure or compost in the\\nhills, which should be three feet apart.\\nThese also require poles to ramble over, similar to the\\npole beans. The Bush Limas are a great acquisition where\\npoles are hard to procure, but having the poles I prefer the\\nold Pole Lima, for various reasons. In planting Lima\\nbeans be very careful to place the eye of the bean downward\\nas the first leaves (which is the bean itself) are quite large\\nand heavy; it will assist them in coming up if planted in\\nthis manner. Cover very lightly with very fine light soil,\\nsand or chaff, being very careful not to plant until the soil\\nis warm and light. Corn planting time is a good time to\\nplant Lima beans.\\nWhen the frost kills the vines in the fall, gather the green\\nbeans and dry them for winter use. They then taste like\\nfresh beans. Three plants to a pole is sufficient. Every\\ngarden should have a supply of this delectable bean.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 31\\nBeet {Beta vulgaris). This is another universal favorite.\\nThe beet is a half-hardy biennial and like all other root\\ncrops produces best results in a rich, sandy loam, which has\\nbeen well manured for a previous crop, otherwise forked or\\nillshaped roots may result. For an early supply the seed\\nshould be sown in the hot bed, and the outside leaves cut\\noff when transplanted to the open ground.\\nWhere the proper soil is not at your disposal, the soil\\nshould be dug before winter and a dressing of manure ap-\\nplied. By this method the soil becomes mellow and pul-\\nverized before sowing time. Sow the seed early in April\\nfor summer, and in June or July for winter use. Sow in\\nrows 15 to 18 inches apart. It is. best to sow in freshty\\nprepared ground, which should be pressed over the seed.\\nIf sown earlier than above, many may run to seed or be-\\ncome coarse and stringy. A few waterings in dry weather\\nwill prove beneficial. As soon as the bulbs reach maturity,\\nlift carefully so as not to wound them, pile in heap, cover\\nwith sand or earth so as to keep out the frost, and enjoy\\ncrisp and tender beets throughout the year. The blood\\nbeets retain their deep red color when cooked, and present\\na beautiful appearance when mixed with the yellow fleshed\\nvarieties. It will be found advisable to make two or three\\nsowings, so as to be certain of a supply of tender bulbs.\\nBe sure to press the soil firmly about the seed as this is one\\nof the seeds which is slow in germinating. The young\\nplants may be transplanted, but care must be used so as not\\nto injure them, as this will cause them to form misshapen\\nbulbs.\\nThe thinnings of beets when young and tender make an\\nexcellent dish when cooked for greens, and are quite pro-\\nfitable where there is a market for them.\\nThe Swiss Chard is a variety of the common beet grown\\nexclusively for its leaves instead of the bulbs, which are\\nworthless. It is therefore called leaf beet, or spinach beet.\\nAfter sowing in the spring, the plants are thinned like\\ncommon beets, and supplied with water. In late summer,\\nautumn and in more southern localities, in early winter, the\\nplants are ready for use.\\nBeets may be had for winter use by storing in barrels in\\ncellar, and keeping covered with sand or soil to prevent\\nwilting. Beets are on record as a highly prized vegetable\\nover 2000 years ago, and received much notice from early\\nwriters on horticultural subjects.\\nThe large rough shells or seed pods contain several seeds\\nmaking it impossible to sow the seeds thin enough but that\\nthev will have to be thinned.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "32 THE PARMER S GARDEN\\nBorecole or Kale c Brassica oleracea acepliala). This is\\nanother vegetable which is seldom seen in the average vege-\\ntable garden. Kale is, practically speaking, a cabbage that\\ndoes not head, and must be thoroughly cooked. In all the\\ncabbage family this is the most tender and delicate, and\\nwould be more generally grown than it is, if its many ex-\\ncellent qualities were more generally known.\\nCurly Greens or Scotch Kale can accommodate them-\\nselves to almost any ordinary garden soil, and no vegetable\\nis more wholesome, coming as it does just after frost has\\ncut off the supply of vegetables, and being hardy may be\\nhad throughout the entire winter and spring, by giving pro-\\ntection of straw, leaves, or evergreen boughs, in the north.\\nSow the seed in May, transplant in June or July, setting the\\nplants in rows two feet apart and one foot between the\\nplants, and give the same culture as recommended for Cab-\\nbage.\\nFor a succession sow at intervals of two or three weeks.\\nSeed of the more hardy dwarf varieties may also be sown in\\nthe fall and well protected, and should not be transplanted\\nas are the tall varieties. The small heads may be cooked\\nlike spinach during winter. The quality is greatly improved\\nby frost and while entirely hardy they should not be han-\\ndled while frozen. If necessary to handle while in this\\ncondition they should be thawed as quickly as possible by\\nimmersing them in cold water.\\nBroccoli {Brassica oleracea botrytis asparagoides This\\nis nearly related to the cauliflower, but is more hardy, of\\nexcellent flavor and greatly relished b} all who grow them.\\nBroccoli delights in a good stiff loam.\\nTo maintain a succession care must be given to the sow-\\ning at the proper time and to the selecting of the best var-\\nieties. The earliest sowings are made in March; the later-\\nones in April or May. The seed is sown in the hot bed or\\ncold frame, the soil being of good depth. Sow thinly and\\ncover lightly with soil. When the plants are three inches\\nhigh transplant into rows four or five inches apart and the\\nsame distance between the plants. If the ground is ready\\nfor the setting out of the plants they may be set out in their\\nsmall state direct from the seed beds, but it is better that\\nthey be transplanted once at least.\\nThe permanent plot should be stirred deeply before set-\\nting the plants. Some varieties require more space than\\nothers, but the medium is about thirty inches each way.\\nAfter planting give a generous supply of water and also\\nduring dry weather an occasional application of liquid ma-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 33\\nnure. Keep the hoe busy during the autumn. On the ap-\\nproach of winter they must be thoroughly protected by a\\ncovering of straw or litter, or those which are remaining in\\nthe garden will be lost, as the severe winter weather cuts\\nthem down unless protection of some kind is given them,\\nand I am doubtful if even this will save them except in\\nfavored localities.\\nThe heads should be cut as soon as they attain medium\\nsize and cooked similar to the Cauliflower. It may be well\\nto state here that Broccoli and Cauliflower do not thrive in\\nmany sections, owing to the fact that the summers are too\\nhot and dry for them, except in favorable localities. The\\nbest we can do is to give them a cool, moist situation and\\nrisk the crop in unfavorable localities.\\nBrussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea bullata minor). This\\nis a superior vegetable, superior to either spinach or kale.\\nIt may not be out of place to state here that this, like many\\nother vegetables, is also too little grown.\\nSow moderately thick in hot bed in March and thin freely.\\nPrick out into rows four inches apart, on a nicely prepared\\nborder, where they will make a stocky growth before they\\nare set out. A plantation should be made from this bed\\nearl}- in May on a good rich soil in rows two feet apart, set-\\nting the plants .18 inches apart in the rows. A May sowing\\nshould also be made for a late crop, and should be treated\\nin a similar manner.\\nL,ook out for the green louse. Hoe frequently, and keep\\ndown the weeds. In gathering the sprouts pull those off\\nthe stem first, leaving the top till last.\\nThey are cooked and served as are greens. Strip off the\\nouter covering and cook them whole Ah! what a delicacy,\\nnot surpassed by even the Cauliflower. The Sprouts re-\\nsemble Cabbage in miniature, are produced abundantly,\\nand are about two inches in diameter. They become vzxy\\ntender and of rich delicious flavor when touched by frost.\\nThese like all other members of the Brassica family are\\nsubject to the ravages of the flea-beetle, the cabbage worm\\nand the green louse. They must be protected against these\\nor they will be severely damaged.\\nCabbage {Brassica oleracea capitata). By the introduction\\nof Cabbages of remarkably quick growth it is now possible\\nto obtain a supply of this standard vegetable throughout\\nthe year. As to the early historj^ of the Cabbage we will\\nquote the following historical event: Diocletian amused\\nhimself bv working in his garden, and when Maximian", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "34 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nsought to draw him from his retirement he wrote: If you\\ncould see the cabbages I have planted with my own hand,\\nyou would never ask me to remount the throne. 305 A.D.\\nThe soil intended for this general favorite should be\\ndeeply dug and well dressed with manure, and to prevent\\nclub root do not plant cabbage two successive seasons on\\nthe same soil and do not use hog manure. A dressing of\\nlime will sometimes pay^. In manuring soil for cabbage put\\nthe manure on until you are sure there is enough and then\\nput on two or three times as much more, and then you will\\nprobably have enough.\\nTwo distinct crops are, or should be, grown in every\\ngarden. They are early and late. Seed of the ear-\\nliest sorts is sown from February to March and April, which\\nwill be ready for use about four months from time of sow-\\ning. Therefore we may now enjoy this vegetable almost\\nas early as we formerly could from seed sown the Septem-\\nber previous, and do not have the plants to care for during\\nthe winter.\\nIn setting out the plants care should be exercised to set\\nthem down to the first leaves and thereby prevent the frost\\nfrom splitting the stems and injuring them as it would\\notherwise do. Successional sowings may be made if cir-\\ncumstances require. Sow seed in hot bed or cold frame at\\ndates given above, transplanting the seedlings to about two\\ninches apart, or they will become tall and spindling drawn.\\nGive plenty of light and air. The old way of raising late\\ncabbage was to burn a brush heap and while the ashes were\\nwarm the seed was sown therein. This is an old and good\\nway where practicable. In transplanting to the open choose\\na showery day, but if it is hot and dry, water generously\\nby pouring water on the roots and cover this wet soil with\\nsome that is fine and dry. This will prevent the soil from\\ncrusting around the plants and thus injure them. Evening\\nis a splendid time to do this work as the plants then receive\\nthe benefit of the water all night. Cover the roots with\\nfine soil, packing it to them, or the plants may wash loose\\nand rot off, and besides they will stand the drought much\\nbetter when treated in this way. The distance varies with\\nthe variety soil, etc. The small early varieties do well in\\nrows 18 inches apart, and 15 inches between plants, while\\nthe late sorts should be at least two feet asunder each\\nway.\\nCabbage must have good care to be a success, and must\\nnot be left to the care of the fairies and to the ravages of\\nthe worms, as often seems to be the case. About the third\\nweek in November the heads should be pulled on a dry da)", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 35\\nand left to drain, with the heads down; they should now\\nbe set on a dry spot, heads down as before, in rows by set-\\nting three heads together side by side, while if 3 r ou wish,\\ntwo more rows may be set on top of these.\\nBe careful to wrap the outside leaves around the heads\\nto keep them clean and protect the heads. Soil is then\\nthrown on them to the depth of five or six inches, packing\\nit down firmly to prevent the rain and melting snow from\\nsoaking in. On the approach of winter cover the mound\\nwith salt hay or corn stalks, to keep out the frost. Rats\\nlike to work in vegetable mounds, where the} will do con-\\nsiderable damage if not destroyed.\\nRed Cabbages are used principally for pickling purposes.\\nCabbage as well as other vegetables retain their flavor much\\nbetter when stored as above, than when packed in the cellar\\nto rot and pollute the air. Or it may be preserved to a\\ncertainty by tying a string around the stalk and suspending\\nthem from the top of the cellar. In this case the cellar\\nmust be cool and dry. Or the heads may be cut off and\\npacked in a barrel, taking care to fill all spaces with chaff\\nand keep in a dry cellar, or bury the barrel up to the top.\\nCover the top with a lid and straw to exclude frost when\\nburied outside.\\nIt must be understood that if the early sorts are wanted\\nfor winter use they must be sown later, as the cabbage, like\\nevery other vegetable, ripens in a certain number of days\\n(this depends on the variety used) and is known by the\\nfalling off of the loose leaves, and when ripe soon begins to\\ndecay. The earliest matures in June. For second early\\nthe early varieties should be sown first of April and trans-\\nplanted to the open ground in May. This crop should come\\nto maturity in Jul} or August.\\nThe late varieties are sown in May and set out in July\\nfor winter use, or sown in February for early. When sown\\nin May the crop matures in September, October and No-\\nvember, according to the variety used. If the plants are\\ninfested with lice, each handful should be dipped into to-\\nbacco dust or insect powder. Where it is desirable to\\neconomize space, lettuce or radish seed may be sown between\\nthe rows of early varieties, as it will be out of the way be-\\nfore the cabbage needs the ground. Excepting where they\\nare wanted for summer use for pickling, or in cooler sections,\\nthe Red varieties will be more likely to succeed if sown in\\nJune for heading during the cool fall months.\\nSavoy Cabbage (Brassica oleracea bullata). Savoy Cab-\\nbages, as you are doubtless aware, have a superior flavor,\\nespecially when touched by frost. The culture required by", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "36 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nSavoys is much the same as that required in raising cabbage\\nfor a late crop.\\nYou should make acquaintance with this real luxury of\\nthe cabbage family, for it is one of the most desirable of\\nwinter vegetables, as it answers two purposes; first, as a\\ncabbage to be boiled, which is much sweeter than the com-\\nmon variety; second, as a beautiful, sweet salad cabbage\\nwhen cut and dressed as is Endive.\\nThis type of the Brassica family is not cultivated so gen-\\nerally with us as it is in Europe where its rare good quality\\nis more full} appreciated. Unlike the common variety the\\nleaves are much crumpled or blistered, owing to the fact\\nthat the tissue between the veins is much larger than is\\nreally necessary to fill the space and is bulged out and heav-\\nily wrinkled in accommodating itself to the limited space in\\nwhich it has to grow, This tissue is the most delicious\\npart of the plant and as the larger portion of the head is\\ncomposed of this it makes the whole head of the most deli-\\ncate flavor and of a marrowy nature when cooked.\\nThe\\\\ T make the finest varieties for summer and fall, being\\nespecially desirable for boiling and for slaw. They also\\nwithstand the attacks of the worms better than the common\\nvarieties.\\nCarrot {Daucus hortensis). This vegetable seems to have\\ncome to us from a time that is immemorial, and is another\\nvegetable which is too little grown, as it is one of the best\\nof products of the garden when prepared in various ways.\\nThe carrot does best in a sandy loam which has been\\ndeeply dug and richly tilled. For an early crop sow as\\nsoon as the soil is in a proper condition. The seed should\\nbe sown in rows 12 inches apart, thinning so that the plants\\nremaining are 4 to 6 inches apart. For late use sow at any\\ntime up to the middle of June. Carrot seed is one of those\\nwhich is slow to germinate, and all precautions should be\\ntaken to prevent failure. The seed should be in all cases\\nsown in rows, not more than one inch in depth, and the\\nsoil (which must be fine and mellow) well firmed about the\\nseed; and to render the operation of sowing more easy it\\nwill be found of great advantage to mix the seed with sand.\\nCultivate thoroughly and keep the soil clean and mellow.\\nAllow the crop .to remain in the soil as long as possible with-\\nout danger of freezing to allow the roots to more thoroughly\\nmature, as they will keep much better than when pulled\\nbefore ripe. When pulled allow them to dry off before\\nstoring. Dig when the soil is dry, and store in sand or\\nearth in the cellar or bury in the same manner as recom-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 37\\nmended for beets or other root crops, as they remain more\\nfresh, crisp and tender when stored in this manner. A\\nvery slight frost injures Carrots more than other roots.\\nCarrots also make a very nutritious and desirable food for\\nstock, especialty for milch cows, as the milk is richer and\\nthe butter is sweeter and of a more beautiful color.\\nWhile a sand}* loam made rich by manuring a previous\\ncrop is best suited to the carrot, any good soil thoroiighly\\nand deeply tilled will produce good crops. Where the soil\\nis shallow we would recommend the sowing of stump-rooted\\nvarieties. Where the Carrot is grown on a large scale, as\\nin field culture, it will be found that a clover sod heavily\\ndressed with thoroughly decayed manure will produce\\nsplendid crops.\\nCauliflower (Brassica oleracea botrytis caidiflora). This\\ndelicious vegetable must be well and carefully grown. Any\\nsoil that will grow good cabbage. will grow this, the most\\ndelicious of all vegetables, though the richer the soil the\\nbetter. Extra care will be well repaid.\\nSow T the seed in hot bed in February or March, trans-\\nplanting the plants two or three inches apart in boxes, or\\nin the soil of another hot bed, giving an abundance of light\\nand air on fine days until such a time as it is safe to plant\\nin the open soil, which is from the last of March to the\\nmiddle of April, according to the location of your vicinity;\\nfurther south earlier, further north later.\\nThe plants will stand a light frost if hardened off prop-\\nerly before setting them in the open ground. If properly\\nhardened they are seldom injured by planting out too early.\\nFor second early and late crop sow at the dates given for\\ncabbage. The soil intended for this crop should be very\\nrich, turned over in the autumn, and a heavy dressing\\nof manure applied and worked in, and the whole left to the\\naction of the frost. It should be thoroughly broken up in\\nthe spring and got into a friable condition.\\nIt will greatry improve the appearance of the heads if the\\nbroad outside leaves are bent over them while the curds are\\nforming, keeping them white and attractive. The heads\\nshould be cut while the dew is on them and before the buds\\nuncurl, as this improves this, the most deliriously flavored\\nmember of the cabbage family.\\nNever buy cheap Cauliflower seed. It s a snare.\\nIt must be borne in mind, however, that Cauliflower will\\nnot head in hot, dry weather, hence the sowings must be\\nmade so that they will mature in cool, moist weather. Give\\nthorough culture and keep free from worms.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "38 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nThe secret to Cauliflower culture is to get them started\\nright. They will not always grow where cabbage will suc-\\nceed, at least that is the author s experience. Do not allow\\nthe plants to crowd each other in the seed bed. Trans-\\nplanting frequently, giving more room each time is essen-\\ntial.\\nCauliflower requires a moist soil in connection with a\\ncool moist atmosphere. The best Cauliflower seed comes\\nfrom Denmark. Mulch the late ones. Work a little salt\\ninto the soil around the plants when cultivating them. This\\nattracts moisture.\\nCauliflower may be kept in the cellar until February by\\ncovering the roots and stalks with soil; or they may be\\nplaced in a trench roots down, and the trench filled with\\nsoil up to the heads, and the heads covered with hay or\\nstraw deep enough to keep out the frost.\\nCelsry (Apiu?n Graveoleus). This delicious, healthful\\nand appetizing vegetable has come so generally into use\\nthat there is scarcely a garden that does not have a patch\\ndevoted to its growth. Where the soil is rich (and it must\\nbe to insure success) and the plants are well cared for, your\\nCelery will be one of the most highly prized products of\\nyour garden.\\nThe seed is slow to germinate and should be sown in\\nshallow boxes, or in a thoroughly prepared, very rich bed,\\nin a sunny nook in the garden as early as possible in April,\\nor for winter use about a month later. L,eave half of this\\nbed vacant for use when the plants are large enough for\\ntheir first transplanting, or when they are about two inches\\nhigh. Keep the bed moist almost wet until the seed\\ngerminates, as plenty of moisture is necessary to obtain a\\nsatisfactory growth. Apply the water carefully so as not\\nto wash the bed; dashing it on will not do.\\nSow the seed (which is very small) in drills six inches\\napart, covering it but slightly, if at all; press it down firmly.\\nCultivate and keep free from weeds, and when about two\\ninches high transplant them two or three inches apart.\\nThis crop usually succeeds some other crop, such as early\\nbeans, peas, potatoes, etc. but in this case the soil must be\\nvery rich; the key to success in the culture of Celery is\\nvery rich soil and plenty of moisture. If large stocky plants\\nare used they may be set out the early part of August, but\\nI prefer to do this the last of June or the first of July.\\nMuch depends on your local climate, and should be so\\narranged that the plants will mature in cool, moist\\nweather.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 39\\nThe plants must not be disturbed while wet, as this will\\ngreatly injure them. The new system of Celery culture\\nconsists of making a spot as rich as possible, and there set-\\nting the plants from six to eight inches apart each way.\\nThe plants are then blanched without further care, but the\\nquality is inferior to that grown as of old.\\nIn the old mode of culture when the plants are five or six\\ninches high cut off the tops (which will cause them to grow\\nstocky) and transplant into trenches twelve inches deep\\nand about a foot wide at the top and eight inches at the\\nbottom, having the soil banked up on each side. The bot-\\ntom of the trench should be covered six inches deep with\\nvery fine manure or compost upon which is two or three\\ninches of fine soil on which the plants are set. In dry\\nweather a good soaking of water or the washing suds is es-\\nsential; the latter is the best material that can be used.\\nShade the plants a few da3 r s until well rooted. This may\\nbe done by driving stakes along the rows and broad boards\\nlaid on these. About the 15th of August it is advisable to\\ncommence earthing up, necessary for the proper blanch-\\ning; then, too, Celery grows faster after the stalks are\\nstraightened up and the soil drawn around them, and packed\\nfirmly enough to keep them in an upright position. For\\nthis reason it is best to commence banking it early to give\\nit an upright growth.\\nBe careful not to cover the hearts with soil nor to allow\\nit to get among the stalks, for they will not thrive in the\\nformer case while in the latter they will be difficult to clean\\nfor use. In banking keep the ridge flat on top, to aid in\\nblanching later on, and cultivate the soil thoroughly be-\\ntween the rows. The banking process must be repeated as\\nthe plants grow. Always select a dry day and when the\\nsoil is just damp enough to pack, taking care that no soil\\ngets among the leaves.\\nIt also aids in blanching to have the plants a little below\\nthe level, as in trenches. The self-blanching varieties are\\nnot as good keepers as the others; some of them not keep-\\ning longer than Christmas. When the last earthing up\\nhas been made, the soil must be beaten tolerably firm to\\nthrow off the rains.\\nWhen severe frosts set in a covering of some kind must\\nbe placed over the tops of the ridges to protect the plants.\\nThis must be done gradually as the cold increases. A\\ntrough may be inverted on the top of the ridge to hold the\\ncovering in place. Another and easier way to blanch it is\\nto set the plants on the level ground, although the first\\nway is the best in hot, dry seasons if the trenches are made", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "40 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nrunning east and west, thereby shading the plants from the\\nrays of the sun, which is very beneficial. But if the plants\\nare set on the level, which does away with much hard la-\\nbor, the easiest way to blanch the crop is by boarding up,\\nwhich is simply setting a board of the proper height on\\neach side of the row close up to the plants, on its edge and\\nheld in position by stakes. When properly blanched your\\ncrop may be dug and is read} to market or store away for\\nwinter.\\nThe following method is one which we can recommend\\nwhere the weather is too severe to allow the crop to remain\\nwhere grown: Set the plants as closely together as the\\nbunches of the roots will allow without crowding, upon and\\npartial^ in a layer of moist soil, in the corner of the cellar.\\nKeep the roots moist and the tops dry, using the plants\\nthat are most nearly blanched first. Instead of setting di-\\nrectly on the cellar floor, you ma} place them in boxes of\\nconvenient size, having soil in the bottom. Bore a few\\nholes in the sides of- the box, through which you can apply\\nwater as needed.\\nCeleriac is grown similar to celery when that crop is\\ngrown on the surface and is used as a salad or in seasoning.\\nTransplant the plants to moist, rich soil in rows two feet\\napart and six inches in the rows. Give good cultivation.\\nIt is more hardy than celery and as the roots are the edible\\npart of this vegetable banking is not necessary, but recom-\\nmended. When the bulbs are two inches in diameter they\\nare ready for use. The roots are preserved for winter sim-\\nilar to beets, carrots, etc. It makes a delicious salad when\\ncooked and sliced with vinegar.\\nCelery rust is occasioned by anything that injures the\\nroots a long drought or an excess of water which kills the\\nworking roots, and the yellowing up or rusting of the leaves\\nsoon follows. This delicious delicacy is said to have origi-\\nnated in Germany.\\nChives. These are entirely hardy perennials, and are of\\nthe onion family, grown exclusively for their tops which\\nare used wherever the flavor of the onion is required. It\\nalso makes a fine effect when planted among bedding plants.\\nPlant in small clumps in good soil and keep free from\\nweeds.\\nThey grow quickly and in time the clump will need to\\nbe divided. Being entirely hardy they appear quite early\\nand may be cut throughout the season. The tops only are\\nused and if not allowed to flower will produce much\\nlonger.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 41\\nChicory {Cichorium intybus). This is closely related to\\nour winter Endive (Cichorhtm endivia) and grows from\\ntwo to three feet high, has sky-blue flowers and in some\\nsections is found in fields and by the wayside. It makes\\nan excellent winter salad when blanched. The seeds are\\nsown in May in drills three-fourths of an inch deep and\\nfifteen inches apart.\\nIt requires a rich, mellow soil of good depth. When two\\nor three inches high the plants should be thinned to eight\\ninches apart. The soil requires frequent cultivation and\\nshould be kept absolutely clear of weeds. To blanch them,\\nboxes or flower pots about twelve inches deep should be\\nturned over the plants. When wanted for winter use the\\nplants are taken up late in the fall, and planted closely in\\nboxes of light soil or sand and then placed in a cool cellar,\\nwatering them after planting. When wanted for use a box\\nof them should be placed in a warm room, where the tem-\\nperature will be from 50 to 6o\u00c2\u00b0. Growth will soon com-\\nmence.\\nMany people like the flavor of coffee better where a little\\nchicory or succory has been added. Where it is grown for\\nthis purpose the plants should be fully grown. The roots\\nare then cut into small pieces, and roasted to a good coffee\\ncolor, and then it may be mixed with the coffee or used\\nseparate^ in making that world-renowned beverage.\\nCollards. These originated in the south where they are\\nextensively grown, as they are a sure, easy crop and afford\\nan abundance of food for both man and beast. Collards are\\nthe result of the effort of the cabbage to perpetuate itself\\nunder an adverse climate. It forms a quantity of leaves on\\na tall stem, which are much improved by being touched by\\nfrost. It grows quickly and is a staple form of greens\\nin the south but not much cultivated in the north. The\\nnew Blue Stem variety produces fine blanched heads\\nwhich are of more delicate flavor than the old variety. As\\nthe leaves are gathered the plant continues to grow and\\nproduce new leaves in abundance. In the southern states\\ngrowth continues throughout the winter, but in the north-\\nern states the weather is too severe.\\nThe Collard is cultivated winter and summer in rows not\\nless than three feet apart; is a very exhaustive feeder and\\nmust have very rich soil and should not be grown on the\\nsame soil two successive seasons. The heading may be\\ngreatly facilitated by bending the plants over and covering\\nthe stems and some of the lower leaves with soil, which\\ntends to check the rampant growth and cause the leaves in", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "42 THE PARMER S GARDEN\\nthe center to form finer heads. This should be done after\\nthe first light frosts.\\nCorn Salad. This is a hardy plant, and is one of the most\\neconomical of all small salads, and may be used as a substi-\\ntute for lettuce in winter. It may also be cooked and served\\nas is spinach.\\nFor early spring use the seed is sown in August, and in\\nApril for summer use. Sow in rows one foot apart, cover-\\ning the seeds lightly. As this plant reaches maturity in\\nabout four weeks in summer, a succession of sowings will\\nbe necessary where this plant is relished. Cultivate same\\nas spinach, and protect from frost by a light covering of\\nleaves or litter which may be held in place bj^ a few branches.\\nOf no value in the hot summer months.\\nSugar Corn. Every garden large or small should contain\\na full supply of this universal favorite for table use, for who\\nis there that does not enjoy a plentiful supply of roastin\\nears.\\nThe early varieties should be planted as soon as possible\\nafter the soil has become warm and the weather settled or\\nabout the time field corn is planted; or earlier, taking chances.\\nTo have the finest sweet corn of any variety it should be\\npicked in just the right condition; that is, when the skin\\nbreaks at the slightest puncture, and plantings should be\\nso made as to always have a supply at this stage. The\\nquality is inferior if a few days too old or too young. It\\nwill be well to remember that the early kinds are as a rule\\nof poor quality, as they lack the richness of the later kinds,\\nyet there are exceptions to even this rule as in everything\\nelse.\\nPrepare the soil thoroughly in everyway and use plenty\\nof seed, as the early sorts do not exceed three feet in height.\\nA little compost mixed with the soil will help it along. The\\nbest is raised on a shale. When the ears are gathered cut\\nthe fodder or it will soon go to waste. The whole maize\\nfamily requires warm, rich soil to do its best, and will not\\nmake any headway until the weather is settled and will be\\nvery likely to rot; sweet corn especially will decay where\\ncommon field corn will grow and the purer and sweeter the\\nseed the less hardships it will bear. Always select a warm\\nsoil if possible, especially for the earlier varieties, as the\\ndifference in soil and exposure will make at least a week s\\ndifference in the time of maturity, besides insuring a crop.\\nAll varieties of sweet corn may be sown in rows four feet\\napart and the grains placed eight or ten inches apart in the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 43\\nrows. This is best for early sorts for when planted at the\\nregular distances, three or four feet each way, too much\\nroom is wasted, but the distance should be regulated ac-\\ncording to the variet) planted or the richness of the .soil.\\nThe taller the variety or the richer the soil the greater\\nshould be the distance apart. Continue planting every\\ntwo or three weeks until the last of July when a crop may\\nbe secured by planting an early sort.\\nAlways select the long deep grains for seed purposes\\nwhenever possible; by doing this you will always raise a\\nbetter crop of finer qualit3 r than otherwise. Select those\\nvarieties having a white cob, as the silks are also white\\nmaking it easier to prepare and giving it a finer appearance\\nwhen cooked or dried than those having dark cobs and silks.\\nAn excellent way to boil corn is to boil it with a portion\\nof the husks remaining on the ears. Remove the silks and\\ntough outer husks, leaving the white inner leaves only.\\nThe corn will be much sweeter if cooked in this way.\\nParched sweet corn is quite palatable.\\nIt must be borne in mind that sugar corn must be planted\\nat some distance from field corn and pop corn or they will\\ncross and the quality of your sugar corn will be greatly de-\\nteriorated. The exact distance at which they should be\\nfrom each other cannot be given here as circumstances differ,\\nbut it must be considerable as the pollen is very light and\\nis carried by the wind, bees, etc. long distances.\\nPop Corn. This should be grown in ever} garden, es-\\npecially if there are little ones in the family to enjoy it dur-\\ning the long winter evenings, which bring children together\\nfor social enjoyment while older people as well seem to have\\nno objections to poppin some corn. It is a fact not\\ngenerally known that it does not arrive at its best for pop-\\nping until it is a year or more old, and, that when well\\npopped it becomes nearly twenty times its natural size.\\nThe white rice is generally considered the best variety\\nbut a variety of kinds is attractive. Cultivate similar to\\nfield corn. The soil should be rich and mellow. Plant in\\nrows three feet apart and fifteen inches between the hills,\\nthree stalks to a hill; 50 to 100 bushels of forty pound each\\nmay be grown on one acre.\\nGreat care must be exercised in keeping pop corn entirely\\nisolated from either field corn or sugar corn while growing,\\nas mixing with these will spoil its popping qualities. Be\\ncareful to store it away from mice.\\nA great amount of pleasure may be derived from popping\\nand preparing it in various ways on the long winter even-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "44 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nings that drag so on the folks at home, and, too, it keeps\\nthe young folks at home when otherwise they might seek\\nentertainment at the village.\\nAn Excellent way to Pop Corn. Into a vessel of lard,\\nheated as for frying cakes, put half a pint of shelled pop\\ncorn, and cover the vessel to prevent the corn from popping\\nout. Care must be taken that the corn does not burn.\\nWhen done, take it out with a skimmer and drain thoroughly\\non a sieve over a pan. Salt to suit the taste.\\nTo make Pop Corn Balls. The corn must be well popped;\\nall that is not nicely popped should be discarded. Place one-\\nhalf bushel of the corn in a large dripping pan. Into a\\nsuitable kettle put one pound of sugar with a little water\\nand boil as for candy until it becomes quite waxy in water;\\nthen remove from the fire and dip into it seven tablespoons\\nof thick gum solution, made by pouring boiling water upon\\ngum arabic some hours before needed. Now dip the mix-\\nture upon different parts of the corn. With the hands or a\\nstick mix the corn until thoroughly saturated with the syr-\\nup or candy mixture; then make into balls, being quick\\nor it will set before you get through. The above will make\\nabout one hundred balls. White or brown sugar may be\\nused. For variety white sugar may be used for a portion\\nand molasses for another part. When making balls pop\\nthe corn in the usual manner, without the lard.\\nCress (Lenidium sativum). A justly popular and very\\nappetizing salad plant which should be sown in early spring,\\nvery thickly in shallow drills, and at frequent intervals for\\nsuccession, as it soon runs to seed. It will bear cutting\\nseveral times during the season. Used mixed with lettuce\\nits leaves impart an agreeable, warm, pungent taste. The\\nleaves should be cut while young and tender to be palatable.\\nWater Cress is a hardy, perennial, aquatic plant which\\nthrives best along the banks of running streams or ponds\\nor in other moist situations, the former being best suited to\\nits growth. The plants increase rapidly from extensions of\\nthe roots and from self-sown seed from year to year. This\\nis one of the most appetizing, delicious flavored of all small\\nsalads and grows luxuriantly on the edges of shallow streams\\nas above stated. The seed may be sown in May where the\\nplants are to remain, and the thinnings transplanted and\\nshould be set not less than a foot apart. The Cress will be\\nready for gathering the second season. The leaves are\\nquite large and thick.\\nUpland Cress is a perennial resembling Water Cress in\\nflavor, is good all the year round and is recommended for", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 45\\ndry localities where Water Cress will not thrive. Cut often\\nwhile the leaves are young and tender, as they then possess\\na pleasant, pungent flavor that is quite agreeable.\\nCucumber {Cticumis Satavtis). This is one of the vege-\\ntables mentioned in early bible history for we read of it in\\nNumbers xi, 5, and Isaiah 1, 8, while it grows abundant^\\nin Egypt, and is common in Palestine, being grown by\\nacres on the plains, and is the staple article of vegetable\\ndiet of the poor, during summer. They are also a great\\nrelish with us, as an appetizer, and are quite tender as are\\nall semi-tropical plants.\\nCucumbers require a rich, sandy soil, the hills being\\nmade about three feet apart. These are best made by mix-\\ning rich, ver3 r fine manure in the soil where the hill is\\nto be.\\nA splendid way to raise an early supply without expense\\nand with little labor, is to dig out a hole large enough to\\nhold a wheelbarrowful of manure, finely pulverized; cover\\nthis with five inches of fine, rich soil, and plant the seeds\\nin this, covering about one inch deep. Keep the soil moist\\nto keep it from crusting and to germinate the seeds. These\\nhills should, however, be in a warm sunny nook to insure\\nsuccess.\\nFor an ordinary crop prepare the soil as directed at the\\nbeginning of this subject. Sow in May for early use and\\nthe 15th of June for pickles. The vines will bear more\\nabundantly if the tips of the leading shoots are pinched off\\nwhen the vines are about one foot in length. When all\\ndanger from bugs is over thin out the plants, leaving not\\nmore than three or four to each hill. The fruit should be\\ngathered when large enough whether required for use or\\nnot, for if permitted to ripen on the vines it will destro)\\ntheir productiveness, for the vines having filled their nat-\\nural tendencies that of preserving the species soon wither\\nand die. Keep the soil mellow and free from weeds and\\ndraw a little around the stems from time to time as the\\nvines advance in growth.\\nWhite Spine is a favorite with some in many respects,\\nespecially for market, as they retain a greenish tinge even\\nwhen nearly ripe for seed. These like all others are best\\nwhen picked while young and brittle.\\nThe spaces between the hills of Cucumbers, as well as\\nmelon and squash hills, may be occupied by pepper plants\\nas they grow above the foliage of the vines and require very\\nlittle room, and will receive the benefit of the moisture\\nwhich is retained in the soil bv the shade afforded by the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "46 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nvines. This also economizes space. White varieties are\\nquite attractive.\\nForcing Cucumbers. This method is sometimes resorted\\nto where a few extra early Cucumbers are desired. It may\\nbe somewhat tedious to the average gardener, and while the\\ndirections given above are ample for ordinary use, we will\\ngive a few directions for those who wish to try them. First,\\nprocure a variety suited to frame culture. Any kind will\\ndo, but some are more suited to this purpose than are others.\\nNow prepare your hot bed in February or March. In\\ntwo or three days after preparing the bed the soil will be\\nsufficiently warm for sowing the seed; now place a wheel-\\nbarrowful of rich, fine soil in the center of the sash, in the\\nform of a mound; on this sow several seeds to allow for\\nthose that may damp off as sometimes happens in cloudy\\nweather. If all grow, thin to four plants. Place the pointed\\nend of the seed down, covering about one inch deep. Cover\\nthe sash with straw, old carpets, or litter, or other pro-\\ntection to prevent the heat from escaping, and, too, the bed\\nshould be surrounded with manure for same reason. The\\nseed will sprout in a day or two, and in a week or ten days\\nwill form strong plants. During growth give plenty of air\\nwhenever the weather permits, being careful that the tem-\\nperature does not fall below 6o\u00c2\u00b0.\\nKeep them growing vigorously without too much forcing.\\nWhen they have formed three rough leaves nip off the tip\\nof the plant. This will cause them to branch. If the soil\\nbecomes dry water with luke-warm water. As growth pro-\\ngresses, roots will start from the vines and through the hill,\\nto which rich soil should be placed. The surface roots will\\nsoon find their way through this and the whole surface of\\nthe bed will soon be covered with foliage, flowers and fruit.\\nSyringing every day will prove quite beneficial. A soak-\\ning of weak, liquid manure at least once a week will aid in\\nmaking a vigorous growth.\\nOr. the seeds may be sown in pots half filled with light,\\nrich soil, and plunged to the rim in the hot bed or green-\\nhouse. Fill up the pots as the plants grow, and when they\\nhave attained some growth the)^ should be shifted into\\nlarger pots and finally placed in the frames in which plants\\nhave been wintered, as these will -be empty in May or June.\\nPlace the frame where good drainage is insured, and place\\na barrowful of rich soil in the frame as directed above.\\nIn planting be careful not to injure the roots, and keep\\nthe bed closed and shaded until well established. As\\nsoon as fruit appears the shoot bearing it should have the\\ntip pinched out and every fruit cut as soon as large enough,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 47\\nfor if any are allowed to ripen, the vine, having filled its\\nnatural design, will soon wither and die. Large specimens\\nlook well when on exhibit, but are exhausting to the plant.\\nIn the heat of the day a light sprinkle of straw or leaves\\nover the sash will prevent the plants from drooping.\\nThe Gherkin is raised similar to outdoor cucumbers.\\nThe fruits are small, oval and covered with spines; color\\nlight green, while the vine closely resembles that of the\\nwatermelon. Excellent for pickles when gathered while\\nquite small.\\nWhen gathering vine fruits exercise care in so doing if\\nyou want the vines to continue bearing. Nip off the fruit\\nleaving the stem attached. A slight pull will loosen the\\nvine from the soil thus injuring it.\\nProtect your crop from insect pests by dusting the plants\\nwith dust or soot while wet with dew; and plant a few rad-\\nish, turnip or cabbage seeds in each hill to guard them\\nagainst the small black flea.\\nFruits should be cut early in the morning or in the even-\\ning, using a sharp knife or shears, taking care not to injure\\nthe vines.\\nDandelion {Taraxacum officinale). The Dandelion re-\\nsembles endive and affords one of the earliest as well as one\\nof the most wholesome spring greens. Sow the seed in\\nMay or June in fine mellow soil in rows one foot apart,\\ncover the seed one-half inch deep and firm the soil well\\nover them. Thin the plants so that they will stand one\\nfoot apart each way. Cultivate during the summer, which\\nwill make the roots larger and considerable time will be\\nSaved when trimming or gathering the crop which will be\\nready for use the following spring. The Dandelion has\\nrather a bitter taste and should have the first water poured\\nfrom them while cooking. They are quite healthful.\\nEndive (Cichorhan Endivia). This salad, though seldom\\ngrown, is one of the most valuable salad plants we have for\\nfall and winter use. The first sowing of Endive should be\\nmade in April and successive sowings may be made once a\\nmonth up to the end of August. The first sowing will best\\nsucceed on a warm border and should be transplanted one\\nfoot apart each way; or if preferred they may be thinned to\\nthe desired distance.\\nEater sowings ma}^ be made in any part of the garden\\nproviding the soil is rich and light. If this is the case the\\nBatavian varieties must be 1 5 inches apart each way. When\\nthe plants are grown tie the outside leaves over the heart", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "48 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nto blanch the inner leaves 5 to 10 days are required for\\nthis. This must not be done, however, when the plants\\nare damp or they will soon decay. When property grown\\nthis is one of the most appetizing of all salads, while if\\nboiled like spinach it is relished by some.\\nEgg Plant (Solaniim escalentuvi) This grand, good deli-\\ncacy is too little grown, as it is one of the most delicious\\nvegetables we have, and should be in every garden as it\\nwill thrive with good care in any good soil, and will repay\\ngood cultivation.\\nThe seeds are sown in hot beds and require considerable\\nheat to germinate them, for as this is a sub-tropical plant\\nit is of importance that they make a rapid growth from the\\nfirst, as they never recover from a check received while\\nyoung. Repeated sowings are sometimes necessary.\\nKeep very warm and partially shaded, giving plenty of\\nwater until the weather is settled and the ground warm,\\nand all danger from cold nights is past; then harden the\\nplants by gradual exposure to the sun and air and diminish\\nthe amount of water. Sow in March and when they have\\nattained the second rough leaf transplant two or three inches\\napart, handling carefully. It is a very tender plant and care\\nmust be used when they are set out or they will be chilled\\nby the change. This and tomato plants are second choice\\nof the potato bug which will destroy them if not checked.\\nSet in rows two feet apart each way in very rich soil, and\\ngive every advantage possible. If needed shade the plants\\nuntil well established, and draw the soil up to their stems\\nas they advance in growth.\\nPick the eggs as soon as large enough as the quality\\ndeteriorates as they begin to ripen. When well grown your\\nEgg Plants will be one of the most highly prized products\\nof the garden. They should have the richest soil possible\\nfrom the seed bed throughout their entire growth. When\\ngathering the eggs care should be observed so as not to\\ndisturb the roots of the plants or they will be severely dam-\\naged. In the more northerly states this vegetable must\\nhave every care to succeed. Gather the fruits before the\\nseeds harden. On the approach of frost gather all fruits\\nthat are large enough for use as they will keep for a con-\\nsiderable length of time.\\nIn the summer when the soil is- liable to become dry it\\nmay be kept moist by placing a mulch of hay or straw\\naround the roots of the plants to a depth of two or three\\ninches.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 49\\nGarlic {Allium Sativum). This is the most pungent of\\nthe onion tribe and not much used except by the Germans\\nand for medicine. The history of this vegetable dates back\\ninto antiquity, as we find it mentioned in Numbers xi, 5,\\nand was one of the vegetables enjoyed by the Israelites in\\nEgyptian bondage; while Herodotus (450 B. C.) writes\\nthat in his time there was an inscription on the great pyra-\\nmid telling of the 16,000 talents that were spent for onion,\\nleek and garlic, with which to feed the builders of the\\npyramid.\\nThe roots are composed of several divisions called cloves.\\nThese are separated in the spring and planted as are onion\\nsets, in rows two feet apart and six inches in the rows. Do\\nnot allow the plants to run to seed stalk. This may be pre-\\nvented by breaking down the tops or by tying them in a\\nknot. In the autumn when ripe, pull and tie together in\\nbunches and put away for future use.\\nHorse Radish. This favorite vegetable may be grown in\\nany garden soil, but a moist situation is best suited to its\\ngrowth. The best shaped roots are grown from the small\\nroots, and not from the tops or crowns. These sets planted\\nin spring in rich, moist soil will produce roots of large size\\nthe first season.\\nBefore setting, the tops are cut off slantingly to prevent\\nwater from standing on them and causing them to decay.\\nSome advise digging in the fall before the ground freezes\\nand storing in trenches, or in sand in the cellar. This may\\ndo in some cases but I would prefer to dig as needed, as\\nthey retain their strength and aroma better.\\nFrom the large roots a supply of sets may be secured for\\nplanting. Horse Radish is a difficult plant to eradicate\\nwhen once established, and therefore had best be kept un-\\nder control.\\nIn planting the sets a trowel may be used, or they ma} r be\\nplanted by driving the spade full length into the soil flat to\\nthe garden line and moved back and forth to make a hole;\\ntwo sets may be placed in this, one at each side. Press the\\nsoil to them and you are sure of success as this vegetable\\nis sure to grow almost regardless of conditions. This is a\\nfavorite relish and one that is quite wholesome and appe-\\ntizing.\\nHerbs, A small plot of Sweet Herbs and Pot Herbs\\nshould be found in every vegetable garden, be it large or\\nsmall, for every good housewife knows the value of a small\\npatch of herbs upon which she can make daily visits in the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "50 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nsummer and which furnishes such a nice collection of sea-\\nsoning for winter use, and without which the Thanksgiving\\nand Christmas turkey would be scarcely worth the having;\\nwhile as domestic medicines many are held in high repute.\\nA very small patch is sufficient for the requirements of the\\naverage family.\\nTheir culture is very simple, as follows: Sow the seed\\nin a seed bed of rich earth in a corner of the garden in\\nearly spring and transplant into rows as soon as they have\\nattained sufficient size. On the average the rows should be\\nat least 1 8 inches apart and about a foot between the plants.\\nHerbs in general thrive best in a mellow and free soil and\\ncare should be exercised in properly harvesting them in a\\ndry state. The chief points are to cut them on a dry day\\njust before they come into full bloom and to dry them\\nquickly in the shade; when thoroughly dry pack them\\nclosely in dry, air-tight boxes, keeping them entirely ex-\\ncluded from the air.\\nSome of them are perennial and when once obtained in\\nthe garden may be preserved for many years with a little\\ncare in summer and slight protection during winter. They\\nshould be in a bed to themselves where they will not inter-\\nfere with the management of the rest of the garden.\\nMany people still grow the simple medicinal herbs for\\nhome use. Seed of those of which the leaves are used\\neither in green or dry state, perennial varieties especially,\\nshould be sown thinly in shallow drills as early as the soil\\ncan be made fine and mellow, as the seeds germinate better\\nin cool, moist weather. The perennials should be trans-\\nplanted to permanent beds on the borders where they will\\nnot interfere with cultivation of the remainder of the gar-\\nden. The annuals should also be sown early, making the\\nrows 1 8 inches apart and setting the plants about one foot\\napart in the rows for such varieties as are grown for their\\nleaves, and two feet apart for those producing aromatic\\nseeds. The former should be cut and dried as given above,\\nwhile the seed heads of the latter should be cut as soon as\\nripened and spread in a cool airy room or tied in small bun-\\ndles, and may be threshed and cleaned, when they are\\nread}^ for use.\\nBelow we give a list of the most common varieties with\\nthe manner of using. The following- N are annuals:\\nAnise {Pimpinella anisum) Used for cordial, flavoring;\\nthe seeds are aromatic. Balm {Melissa officinalis) Leaves\\nhave a fragrant odor; used in making balm wine, also for\\nbalm tea for use in fevers. Basil (Ocymum basilicum)\\nLeaves are used for flavoring soups and other highly sea-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 51\\nsoned dishes. Bene {Sesamum orientate) The leaves im-\\nmersed in water make a drink very beneficial in cases of\\ndiarrhoea, while the seeds furnish an oil used for softening\\nthe skin. Borage {Borago officinalis) Leaves are used\\nfor flavoring; flowers for bee pasture. Coriander {Cor-\\niandrum savitum) The seeds only are used. Dill {Ane-\\nthum graveolens) -The seeds are aromatic and of a warm,\\npungent taste. Used as seasoning; also for pickling.\\nMarjoram {Origanum marjoram^) The leaves and ends of\\nshoots are used for seasoning both green and dry. Savory,\\nsummer {Satureia hortensis) Leaves and blossoms are used\\nfor flavoring, especially soups and dressings.\\nThe following varieties are of perennial nature and re-\\nmain in the ground for years with slight protection in\\nwinter:\\nCaraway Carum carui) Seeds used for flavoring bread,\\npastry, etc. Fennel, sweet {Anethum foenicidum) The\\nboiled leaves are used in fish sauces. Horehound (Mar-\\nrubium vidgare) Leaves used for seasoning and in the\\nmanufacture of the favorite cough remedy. Lavender\\n{Lavendula vera) Aromatic, medicinal. Pennyroyal\\n{Mentha pulegium) But little known. Of a bright green\\nsuited for growing on rockwork. Rosemary {Rosmarinus\\nofficinalis) Leaves aromatic; used for seasoning. Sage\\n{Salvia officinalis) See Sage culture. Savory, winter\\n{Satureia ??wntana)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 L l ea.ves and tender shoots used for\\nflavoring. Tansy {Tanacetum vidgare) For medicinal\\npurposes. Tagetes Lucida. Very pretty, and an excellent\\nsubstitute for tarragon. Thyme Thymus vulgaris) Leaves\\nand tender shoots used for flavoring; a tea is also made for\\nnervous headache. Wormwood {Artemisia absinthium)\\nMedicinal; good for poultry. Tarragon {Artemisia dra-\\ncunculus) Used for seasoning or salads. The stems may\\nbe cut and dried. Must have protection in the north. In-\\ncreased by layering or from slips. Saffron {Crocus sativus)\\nFlowers used for dyeing; also used medicinally. Cat-\\nnip or Catmint {Ncpeta cataria) Leaves and young shoots\\nused for seasoning and for Catnip tea. Rue {Ruta gra-\\nveolens) Medicinal. Good for fowls, for colds and croup.\\nKohl Rabi {Brassica oleracca caulo-rapa). This like okra\\nand many other vegetables is too little appreciated by many,\\nfor when properly prepared it is one of the most desirable,\\nas it combines the virtues of both the cabbage and turnip,\\nbut excels either in productiveness, hardiness and quality.\\nSeed should be sown in drills 15 inches apart and trans-\\nplant the surplus ones into rows 8 inches between the plants.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "52 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nChoose a rainy day for this, as they are considered difficult\\nto transplant.\\nSow at intervals of 10 days for a succession until hot\\nweather, when they fail to grow well. Those sown for\\nwinter use should be sown in July, and for the reasons given\\nwill do better if thinned to the proper distance. The bulb\\nshould be used while young about the size of an orange\\nas age detracts from its good quality. They may be pre-\\nserved for winter use as are beets and carrots, and are im-\\nproved by being frozen before they are gathered.\\nLeek {Allium Porruni). Aside from being valuable for\\nsoups and salads, blanched Leek makes an excellent dish\\nwhen sliced and cooked as are peas. This fact does not\\nseem to be generally known, as Leeks are seldom seen in\\nthe average farmer s garden. They may be had all winter\\nif dug with the roots on and stored in moist sand in the\\ncellar.\\nSow the seed very early, about March ist, in a rich seed\\nbed in a sheltered place. Keep well watered while in the\\nseed bed. When six inches high transplant into trenches\\nsix inches deep, with very rich soil in the bottom. Fill up\\nthe trenches as the plants grow, and afterwards draw soil\\nup to them. As a result you will have fine large Leeks 12\\ninches long that will tempt the palate of the epicure.\\nPerhaps few are aware that the Leek is one of the finest\\nwinter vegetables, and when properly grown can be had\\nwith from six inches to one foot of white which when boiled\\nis very nutritious, and much milder than the onion. With\\na good supply of crisp and tender vegetables all carefully\\nput into a root cellar, we are prepared to give a change of\\ndiet all winter as well as summer.\\nLettuce (Lartuca saliva). This valuable salad amply re-\\npays any trouble that may be bestowed on its cultivation.\\nLettuce is divided into two classes; the cabbage with round\\nheads and the cos with long head and erect narrow leaves.\\nThe cabbage varieties are firmer, the most tender and but-\\ntery, while the latter are most refreshing.\\nPrepare the soil by digging deeply and manuring heav-\\nily, while after planting never allow the plants to suffer for\\nwater. Sow in the open ground as ^arly as possible in\\ndrills one foot apart and as soon as large enough thin out\\nor transplant to four inches apart; or if you have any plants\\nfrom fall sowing, transplant into a rich bed and hoe well.\\nIf sown in hot bed let it be sown early, give but little heat", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 53\\nand plenty of water. Sow a- couple of rows quite thickly\\nto be used while young.\\nFor later use sow in a partially shaded place in rich soil\\nand water freely. That which is sown early should be iu a\\nwarm, sunny nook, continuing successive sowings every\\ntwo or three weeks until July. Sow the hardy sorts in\\nAugust or September for spring use, and protect with\\nframes, leaves or litter, while if a few of the best plants are\\nallowed to sow their own seed you will have an abundance\\nof this delicious salad very early. Always keep the soil\\nmellow and free from weeds, as this requires good care as\\nmuch as any other crop.\\nThere is no vegetable that is more universally used than\\nis L,ettuce and yet comparatively few persons know how\\ninviting and appetizing it really is when brought to the\\ntable fresh, crisp and unwilted, a condition in which we\\nscarcely ever find this really excellent salad in our markets,\\nand which can only be secured by growing the plants in\\nour own kitchen gardens. In fact this is the case with\\nnearly all vegetables; the fresher they are the better will\\nbe their qualities. For this and various other reasons we\\nurge all our friends to have at least a small vegetable patch\\nand to raise a full supply of deliciously crisp and tender\\ngarden sass.\\n.Melon, Musk {Cucumis Mclo). This, everybody s fav-\\norite, espeeialby^early ones, delights in a light, rich, sand} T\\nsoil, and contra^ to the common opinion is of easy culti-\\nvation. As to its early history we find it mentioned in\\nNumbers xi, 5, while Pliny records its use, and as he died\\nA. D. 79 we judge it is as old as the cucumber. They\\nflourish in Egypt from May to November and grow ver} T\\nlarge and are a staple crop, refreshing to both the thirst}\\nas well as the hungry. This refers to the watermelon.\\nIf your soil is infested by cut worms plow as early as\\npossible in the spring. Rake or harrow the manure into\\nthe soil and make the hills from 3x3 to 4^x4^ feet apart.\\nThese should be inadeven rich by thoroughly incorporating\\nvery fine manure into the soil.\\nThe manure described for Watermelons is also splendid\\nfor these. Place a shovelful in each hill and tramp firmly;\\nmake a hill over this and sow the seed, putting six to eight\\nin each hill. Cover about one inch deep and firm the soil\\nabove the seed. As soon as in rough leaf loosen the soil\\naround the plants. Do not bruise the vines or they will be\\ninjured. When the plants are 6 to S inches high, rake\\nwith a wooden rake and hoe again. Keep the soil mellow", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "54 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nand destroy grass and weeds. The striped bug may cause\\ntrouble and damage to the young plants, and must be kept\\nin check. (See the chapter on injurious insects.)\\nMuskmelons are very tender and will not bear rough\\nusage. Neither should they be handled when wet. As\\nsoon as the plants are large enough to care for themselves\\nthin down to three or four of the most promising. Pinch\\noff the tips of the leading shoots if the growth becomes too\\nvigorous. If the fruits set too thickly, thin out when\\nyoung. This will increase the size of the remaining ones\\nand cause them to ripen earlier. They have reached ma-\\nturity when they will leave the vine under slight pressure.\\nThe quality is best when the fruits are ripened in the\\nshade.\\nGather as soon as ready or the hot sun will soon spoil\\nthem. Sickly vines, unsuitable soil or unfavorable weather\\nwill produce fruit of poor flavor. Keep the vines growing\\nvigorously from the start.\\nMelon, Water (Cucurbita citrulhis). Watermelons thrive\\nbest in a warm, sandy loam. They grow best in a clover\\nsod of the above texture. As cut worms abound it is best\\nto plow in the autumn or early in the spring.\\nWith good soil and plenty of manure to place in the hills\\nsuccess is reasonably assured. Place a shovelful in each\\nhill and cover about four inches deep with fine soil. Make\\nthe hills about 6x6 feet. As to the manure best suited to\\ntheir growth I think horse and hog manure half and half;\\nor the scrapings from the barnyard make a most excellent\\nfertilizer. This must be well incorporated with the soil or\\nit will burn the plants and cause a failure. The seeds, six\\nor eight in number to each hill, are covered with fine mel-\\nlow soil one inch deep. This should be firmly packed over\\nthe seeds. Do not allow the soil to crust.\\nCultivate thoroughly to keep the soil loose and free from\\nweeds. Sow as early as possible using an early kind. Seed\\nthree or four years old is said to be better than strictly\\nfresh seed as it gives more solid flesh with fewer seeds.\\nHandle the vines carefully and do not tread on them when\\no-athering the melons as this is certain to injure them.\\nDo not plant too close to pumpkins or squashes or they\\nwill hybridize and spoil your melons is what some people\\nsay, but I have never known this to happen although it\\nmay be a fact. The essential points for success are: Suit-\\nable soil, pure seed, good culture, plenty of manure, and\\no-ood strong vines early in the season. When the Melons\\nhave arrived at maturity the quirl nearest the Melons will", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 55\\nhave died. By this you will know when they are ripe with-\\nout plugging them. Care must be exercised that water-\\nmelons and citrons or preserving melons are not planted in\\nclose proximity or they will cross and spoil both crops.\\nMustard {Sinapis alba (white) and Sinapis nigra (black).\\nThis is a hardy plant and is used as a salad in early spring\\nand is very appetizing, being slightly warm to the taste.\\nIn England mustard and cress mixed is used as a salad\\nand is one of their table delicacies. In this case water\\ncress is preferable.\\nSeed of this vegetable is sown as soon as the frost is out\\nof the ground in shallow drills one foot apart and one-half\\ninch deep in mellow soil. The plants will soon present\\nthemselves and be ready for use as they must be used while\\nyoung and tender, for when old they become unfit for use.\\nIf mustard is desired for winter use allow the plants to run\\nto seed. These should be gathered before the seed begins\\nto scatter, dried, threshed and ground. When using this\\nhome grown mustard it should be mixed with vinegar\\nand allowed to stand a while before using. If this is neg-\\nlected the mustard will have a bitter taste, owing, I suppose,\\nto the fact that the skin of the seed is not removed as is the\\ncase with that which we buy. The black mustard is used\\nfor this purpose.\\nDo not allow seed to scatter on your ground as it is quite\\nhard)- and will spread and become difficult to eradicate.\\nSinapis N. is supposed to be the plant referred to in\\nMathew xiii, 31; but this is not certain.\\nMushrooms {Agaricus campestris^ox Common Variety. Of\\nthis fungi there are a great man)^ species. Around the\\ngrowth of this highly esteemed and nutritious escullent\\nthere seems to be a profound mystery which can be pene-\\ntrated only by the initiated; in reality, however, it is a ver} T\\nsimple matter, requiring only ordinary intelligence and care.\\nThey can be grown in any dark room or cellar where the\\ntemperature can be maintained at about 50 or 6o\u00c2\u00b0.\\nFrom some old pasture obtain the soil and store it away.\\nTo one bushel of this add two bushels of fresh horse ma-\\nnure. Of this mixture prepare a bed four feet wide and of\\nthe length desired. Put down a thin layer of this and pack\\nit firmly, proceeding in this manner until 3-ou have a bed\\neight inches thick. This will soon become quite hot, but\\nallow the heat to recede to 85 or 90 Then make holes\\nabout one foot apart each way and place the spawn in these\\ntwo or three pieces the size of a small egg in each hole.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "56 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nCover this and press the soil solid and smooth. Let the bed\\nremain in this condition for ten or twelve days; then cover\\nthe bed with two inches of loam. Over this place four or\\nfive inches of hay or straw and the work is complete.\\nIf the work is properly done, in six or eight weeks you\\nmay reap your reward. The bed will continue in bearing\\ntwenty or thirty days. After gathering the crop spread an\\ninch of fresh soil over the bed, moisten with warm water\\nand cover as before. But success depends so much upon a\\nproper and uniform moisture, temperature and other at-\\nmospherical conditions that success is not always certain\\nwith the beginner. In market there is always a demand\\nand an over supply is seldom known.\\nOther edible varieties are: Marasmius oreades (Fairy\\nRing), Coprinits comatus (horse tail-), Cantharelhis cibarius,\\nChanterelle and many others.\\nTo Distinguish Mushrooms from Poisonous Fungi.\\nSprinkle a little salt on the gills or under side of the um-\\nbrella. If they turn black they are edible; if yellow they\\nare poisonous. Allow the salt to aet before you decide.\\nPoisonous mushrooms or fungi have a w T arty cap, or else\\nfragments of membrane adhering to the upper surface, and\\nemerge from a bag; the} are also heavy while the mush-\\nroom proper is quite light. The} also grow in tufts or\\nclusters in the woods, on the stumps of trees, etc., while\\nthe true edible mushrooms grow in old pastures late in the\\nsummer. False mushrooms or toadstools have an astrin-\\ngent, styptic and disagreeable taste. They are moist on\\nthe surface and generally of a rose or orange color, and\\nwhen cut they turn blue. The gills of the true mushroom\\nare of a pinky red, changing to a liver color, while the flesh\\nis white. The stem is white, solid and cylinderical with\\nthe ring a little more than half way up. The above rules\\nhold good to those who are in the habit of gathering wild\\nmushrooms.\\nOkra. This is an annual from the West Indies and like\\nmany others is seldom seen in the garden; yet its young,\\ngreen seed pods give a fine flavor and consistency to soups,\\netc. besides being very palatable when cooked and served\\nas is asparagus. The pods while young and tender may\\nalso be dried for winter use. It is extensively grown\\nthroughout the southern states, and should be more gener-\\nally cultivated in our northern gardens as it is as easily\\ngrown as a weed.\\nThe plants, which bear large, white Hibiscus-like flowers\\nwith a deep maroon center, make a very pretty sight even in", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 57\\nthe flower garden. Okra is a vigorous plant requiring con-\\nsiderable space. The large variety should be planted three\\nfeet apart and the dwarf eighteen inches. In mild climates\\nit is only necessary to sow the seed in the open garden\\nabout two inches deep and merely keep the soil clean and\\nmellow as for a hill of corn, drawing the soil up to the\\nstems as they advance in growth. The plants bear for a\\nlonger period if the pods are picked when of sufficient size.\\nThe surplus pods may also be dried for winter use by run-\\nning a thread through them and hanging them up from the\\nflies, in a cool place. They must be gathered while young\\nor they will be woody. They can also be canned with to-\\nmatoes. A grand vegetable.\\nOnion {Allium Cepa). This is another of the vegetables\\nmentioned in Numbers xi, 5, as one of the vegetables of\\nEgypt, where it is extensively grown near the Nile and in\\nSyria, where it is eaten raw. The Egyptian variety is as\\nlarge as the common Portugal variety.\\nThe onion thrives best in a rather deep, rich, loamy\\nsoil, and unlike most crops succeeds best when grown\\non the same ground for several successive seasons. To\\ngrow onions successfully the soil cannot be made too rich\\nand must have more or less manure well worked through\\nthe soil for every crop, for it is a plant producing numerous\\nroots which reach out and penetrate deeply, absorbing sus-\\ntenance from every part of the soil. This is a splendid crop\\nto follow cabbage, yet as regards rotation the Onion occu-\\npies an anomalous place as the same soil has been known\\nto produce splendid crops for many years. The soil should\\nbe plowed in the autumn, heavily manured and left as\\nplowed so that the ridges will be exposed to the action of\\nthe frost. This crop must have a clean and very rich soil\\nto succeed.\\nUse thoroughly decayed manure freely. This should be\\nthoroughly incorporated with the soil before sowing the\\nseed. Sow as early as possible in the spring no matter if\\nthe weather is cold and unpleasant, for if the Onion does\\nnot get a good start before the hot, dry weather the crop\\nis sure to be a failure. Old seed will not produce a thrifty\\ncrop. Use new seed every time. Sow in drills one foot\\napart and one-half inch in depth, cover with fine soil and\\npressd own firmly. When the plants are large enough thin\\ngradually so they will stand four inches apart, disturbing\\nthose remaining as little as possible. As Onions stand on\\ntop of the ground they may be allowed to grow pretty\\nthickly, no matter if they do crowd each other. In hoeing", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "58 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\njust skim the surface of the soil keeping it level and do not\\ncover the bulbs. Do not cultivate deeply but loosen the soil\\nwell up to the plants.\\nThe Onion requires a firm seed bed or it is liable to make\\ntoo many roots at the expense of the crop. Do not cover\\nthe bulbs with soil, for the more the Onion rises out of the\\nsoil the better it keeps when stored. When three inches\\nhigh thin to two inches apart. Pull every other Onion for\\nsalading, leaving the remainder four inches apart. A top\\ndressing of wood ashes after cultivating is very beneficial,\\nas will be seen by the dark, healthy condition given to the\\nplants, besides saving them from the ravages of the maggot.\\nWhere it is possible an application of dry, fine hen manure\\nput on in the same way will be of great benefit to the crop.\\nWhen the tops dry and fall the crop should be gathered at\\nonce for various reasons, and spread evenly on the ground\\nto cure. When thoroughly dried the tops should be cut off\\nhalf an inch from the bulb.\\nTo grow pickling Onions the seed should be sown thickly\\non poor soil and allowed to grow without being thinned\\nout.\\nAs stated elsewhere in this article a good crop of Onions\\ncan be grown on any soil that will produce paying crops of\\nother vegetables, unless it is a stiff clay, very light sand or\\ngravel. Certain varieties of muck land will invariably pro-\\nduce stiff necks or scallions which are worthless on the\\nmarket, as the3^ do not form bulbs and do not ripen down\\nwell, while other muck soils produce large crops of the fin-\\nest grade. The soil best suited to their growth is a rich,\\nsandy loam with a light mixture of clay. It is also much\\nbetter if it has been cultivated, kept clean and well manured\\nfor a year or two previous, for if a sufficient amount of ma-\\nnure to raise ordinary soils to a proper degree of fertility is\\napplied just previous to the Onion crop, it is liable to make\\nthe Onions very soft and consequently they will be poor\\nkeepers. The quantity of seed required will vary with the\\nsoil, the variety to be grown and the grade desired.\\nThin seeding gives much larger bulbs than thick seeding.\\nAfter the first hoeing, weeding must be continued. This\\nis tedious work but it must be carefully and thorough^\\ndone. The operator must work on his knees, astride the\\nrow, at the same time stirring the soil around the seedling\\nOnions to destroy any weeds that may have started. In\\nabout two weeks they will require another cultivating and\\npossibly another weeding. If the work has been thor-\\noughly done at the proper time the crop will require very\\nlittle, if any further care until ready to harvest. Have", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 59\\nyour soil rich, do the work properly and your Onions will\\nthrive and gain strength amazingly.\\nThe best Onion seed is raised from onions that were\\ngrown from sets. Sets are small onions grown the previous\\n3 ear from seed sown very thickty (50 to 60 pounds per\\nacre) and gathered when the size of peas. The smaller the\\nbetter, as they produce the best crop. Set out in the spring\\nthey soon form a good large Onion, and also make excel-\\nlent green Onions quite early. As previously stated the\\nsoil must be very rich. Do not manure too heavily in the\\nspring or the crop will not be as firm as otherwise and will\\nnot keep as well when stored. Where you have any Onions\\nleft over from your winter supply they may be set out\\nearly and will soon make excellent young Onions to use\\nwith earl} radishes and lettuce.\\nThere are two other kinds of Onions that are not raised from\\nseed; these are the Potato and Top Onions. The former\\ngrows in clusters under the soil. These clusters are divided\\nand the sets are planted in the spring and produce large\\nOnions; these large Onions are set out and produce the sets.\\nThe latter produce the sets on top of the stalks where seed\\nis produced on the common variety. These sets are planted\\nin the spring and the crop is large Onions, and these with\\none year s growth produce the sets.\\nDo not try to grow the Onion on poor, unsuitable soil or\\nin a careless manner. Place the fertilizer on or near the\\nsurface and be cautious of whom you procure your seed.\\nThe Egytian Perennial, or Winter Onion, is quite hardy\\nand should not be disturbed when once established. They\\nare used for green Onions only and are propogated from\\nthe sets which grow on top of the stalks similar to Top\\nOnions. These sets are planted in autumn and covered\\nwith stalks or strawy manure; this should be raked off be-\\nfore growth commences in spring. These come very early\\nand are sweet and tender. Gather your crop as soon as the\\ntops die down and cure them thoroughly before you store\\nthem for winter. They should be packed in boxes made of\\nlath; these boxes should be 16 inches wide, 24 inches long\\nand 6 inches deep, with a slat nailed on the ends of the\\nbottom to admit air to circulate freely.\\nParsley {Apium petroselimun) This useful little plant\\nwill grow almost anywhere. It does not require a very\\nrich soil. Sow the seed in drills one foot apart, afterwards\\nthinning the plants to four inches apart. Parsley seed ger-\\nminates very slowly; therefore previous to sowing soak the\\nseed in warm water for twenty- four hours, or all precau-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "60 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\ntions must be taken to insure success. When sown it\\nshould be covered about half an inch deep with fine soil,\\nwhich should be firmed over the seed. Always gather the\\nlarge leaves first, and cut off all old ones to encourage\\na fresh growth.\\nParsley will live through the winter in the garden if pro-\\ntected with leaves; or plant a few roots in a box and place\\nthem in a light cellar where they will grow all winter. This\\nherb is used extensively in stuffings, etc.\\nParsnip (Pastmaca sativa). This vegetable we find men-\\ntioned by Pliny as being brought to Rome from the banks\\nof the Rhine, at the command of the emperor Tiberius,\\nfor use on his table, A. D. 14. This delicious vegetable\\ncomes to its greatest perfection in a deep, rich and free soil\\nthat has been stirred to a depth of 12 inches and having\\nbeen heavily manured for a previous crop, or the manure\\nused should be thoroughly decayed. Sow in drills 18 inches\\napart as earl} in the spring as the soil will permit. When\\ntwo or three inches high thin to six inches apart. The\\nParsnip is entirely hardy and improves by being left in the\\nground through the winter taking only sufficient to the\\ncellar to last while the soil is frozen.\\nThe roots are always best flavored when left where grown\\nbut when raised for market they may be pitted. They can\\nbe sold at remunerative prices when the crop in general is\\nfrozen in the ground. Be careful to dig the crop clean.\\nParsnips are also very nutritious food for milch cows and\\nmake a very rich and abundant flow of milk.\\nPeas {Pisum sativum}. The Pea is very hardy and will\\nendure considerable cold either above or below the soil and\\nas we all want green Peas as early as possible in the season\\nthe} should be sown as early as the soil can be prepared in\\nthe spring. The earliest varieties are mostly small, round,\\nsmooth and more hardy than the wrinkled sorts and the\\ntallest growing not more than three feet high. Of late\\nyears some very fine dwarf sweet wrinkled sorts have been\\nadded to this class. The late ones are large, mostly wrink-\\nled and formerly were nearly all tall; but very many excel-\\nlent dwarfs have been added to the list. If the earliest\\nvarieties are sown about April 1st they will be ready for\\nuse early in June. Those sown a little later will be ready\\nabout the Fourth of July.\\nThe large, fine wrinkled varieties are not asy hard as the\\nsmall round sorts, and if sown very early they should have\\na dry soil or they are liable to rot. It is well to sow the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 61\\nearliest varieties as early as possible and two or three weeks\\nlater make another sowing, a few more early, and some for\\nlate use. The very latest varieties will not succeed in this\\ncountry as they mildew in hot weather.\\nThe Pea does well almost anywhere but it likes a good,\\nthough not too rich, soil and deep cultivation. In wet sea-\\nsons a too rich soil causes the plant to make too much\\ngrowth which is an injury to the crop; but on the other\\nhand a rich soil which also means a cool soil in a dry sea-\\nson is of the greatest importance. To secure best results\\nsow in moderately rich soil.\\nSow Peas in drills not less than two feet apart, and not\\nless than four inches deep, especially the late sowings.\\nThe dwarfs which from their small growth are best suited\\nfor garden culture may be sown in rows one foot apart and\\none inch between the seeds. The tall sorts require a sup-\\nport of some kind which should be supplied as soon as the\\nPeas appear. The second sowing previously mentioned\\ncomes in nicely and are quite palatable. A row of early\\nand late varieties may be sown side by side at the same\\ntime so that the same brush will answer for both. Rake\\nover the rows just as the Peas are coming through the soil.\\nThe earliest and latest sowings should be made of dwarf\\nand early varieties.\\nThe thin and deep sowing of Peas tends to make them\\nbushy and prolong the period of bearing. A few may be\\nsprouted in boxes in March and transplanted to the garden\\nwhen the soil is ready. This will cause them to bear some\\ntime before the regular crop. An excellent support for\\nPeas can be made by driving stakes at intervals of 6 or\\n8 feet in the row and stretching wires on them 6 or 8\\ninches apart. These may at the end of the season be rolled\\nup and put away for next season. The wires may be se-\\ncured to the stakes by small staples or by cutting slots\\nslantingly in the stakes so that the wires will lie in them.\\nThe stakes should be set firmly in the ground or the weight\\nof the vines and the wind will pull them over. There is\\nnothing better than brush, however, when it is obtainable.\\nIf you use a commercial fertilizer procure one containing\\na large percent of soluble phosphoric acid. Very little potash\\nis needed where the soil is in fair condition. Strawberries\\nmay be set where early Peas were grown. Celery is also a\\nsplendid crop to follow early beans and peas.\\nPeanut (Arachis hypogaea). Although this may not be-\\nlong to our list of vegetable dietary it may be well to say a\\nfew words here concerning: its culture. Many a long,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "62 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\ndreary winter s evening may be enjoyed and pleasantly\\npassed away by the young folks, and older ones too, by\\nroasting Peanuts or by popping corn; for who is there who\\ndoes not enjoy Peanuts or popcorn when made into candy\\nor balls.\\nThe Peanut is a low, somewhat creeping annual, a mem-\\nber of the bean family. It is a native of the tropics but\\nthrives in our more northern states. The best variety\\nis said to be the Spanish variety. Being earlier they\\nare less liable to get frosted in the fall. All varieties\\ndelight in a rich, sandy loam which contains some lime.\\nPlant as early as possible after danger of frost is\\npast. If you do not have a piece of sandy soil plant on\\nlaud on which oats were last grown.\\nPlant in rows two feet apart, dropping the seeds eight\\ninches apart and cover about two inches deep. Destroy all\\nweeds and keep the soil mellow around the plants so that\\nthe blossoms may bury themselves. Only the first blooms\\nbear fruit. After blooming, these flowers penetrate the soil\\nseveral inches where the nuts ripen. A yield of from 80 to\\n100 bushels per acre is common.\\nIn planting do not break the shell of the nut, as this pro-\\ntects the kernel while germinating and keeps the nut warm\\nwhile it decays. When ready to harvest pull up and pick\\noff the nuts or goobers shake the dirt from the vines\\nand pile for fodder. When dry the nuts should be sacked\\nand put in a dry place. In roasting use a large iron roast-\\ning pan and roast only a few at a time, as fresh nuts are\\nsuperior to old ones. While roasting stir frequently, being\\ncareful not to burn them.\\nPeppers {Capsicum). This is a genus of plants closely\\nrelated to the woody nightshade; the fruits are fleshy, of\\nvarious shapes and sizes and usually of a bright scarlet or\\norange, more or less pungent and much used for flavoring,\\nboth whole and ground. In the latter form it is known as\\ncayenne pepper which is very pungent. This vegetable\\nshould be found in every garden for mangoes and for other\\npurposes. It is well to remember that the flavor is in in-\\nverse ratio to the size of the fruits the largest being the\\nmildest while the smallest are the most pungent.\\nSow in a quite warm hotbed in March and transplant to\\nopen ground in May or when danger from cold snaps is\\npast. They should be planted in warm, mellow, rich soil\\nin rows 18 inches apart. They may also be sown in a warm,\\nsunny nook in rich, mellow seedbed in the garden when the\\nnights are warm. Where desired two plants may be set", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 63\\nbetween the hills of cucumbers, melons, etc. As they grow\\nabove the vines they are not injured, but benefited by hav-\\ning their roots shaded and the soil kept moist by the broad\\nleaves of the vines. Hen manure is an excellent fertilizer\\nwhen worked in around the plants and will be found to in-\\ncrease their productiveness and also the quality of the\\nfruits. When gathering the fruits for use pick a few green\\nspecimens, as they make a pleasing contrast when mixed\\nwith the ripe ones of the red and yellow varieties.\\nPumpkin {Ciiciirbita). No one seems to have been able\\nto trace the origin of either the Pumpkin or squash, but\\nwe read of Pumpkin pies being made over 300 years ago,\\nafter this recipe: Cut a hole in the side, take out the seeds\\nand filaments, stuff with a mixture of apples and spices and\\nbake till done.\\nThese take up so much room that they properly belong\\nin the cornfield, but if there is no other place to raise them\\nthey may be planted among the sweet corn or potatoes,\\nproviding they can be kept far enough from the squashes\\nto prevent their crossing and spoiling the latter. Do not\\nplant until settled weather. Plant in hills 6 feet apart each\\nway and mix 3 or 4 shovelfuls of well rotted manure with\\nthe soil of each hill. Plant five or six seeds in each hill.\\nThin to three plants when about one foot in length. Cul-\\ntivate and hoe thoroughly until there is danger of injuring the\\nvines. The fruits should be gathered before heavy frosts\\n(leaving the stems to them) being careful not to bruise the\\nPumpkins, and store in a cool, but frost proof room.\\nPotatoes, Sweet {Batatas). As these favorites are semi-\\ntropical, they require a long season to mature and must be\\nstarted in a hotbed. They may be grown in this previous\\nto sowing late cabbage, etc. or the bed maybe constructed\\nin a warm, sunny nook sheltered by a building.\\nWhile the sun is warmest about April 1st, rake the bed\\nover thoroughly so as to have the soil fine and of uniform\\ndepth. Now lay the seed. If large plants are desired the\\ntubers should be two or three inches apart, carefully press-\\ning them into the soil. When the tubers are laid, cover\\nthree inches deep with mellow loam, raking the surface\\nsmoothly. If the job is well done the soil will warm up in\\ntwo or three da}^s, but the temperature must not be allowed\\nto rise above 75 or 8o\u00c2\u00b0. The plants may appear in two or\\nthree weeks, but this will depend on circumstances. The\\nbed must have air whenever possible. This should be done\\non warm sunny davs by removing the sash for about three", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "64 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nhours in the middle of the day. Rake the surface of the\\nbed gently, exercising care that the plants are not injured.\\nUntil well up, the bed need not be uncovered every day,\\nand must not be on cold, cloudy or stormy days. The\\nplants must be exposed more or less as they grow and the sea-\\nson advances until a week before planting-out time comes,\\nwhen they should be uncovered night and day to harden\\nthem. The beds should be made about six weeks before\\nthe plants are needed.\\nThese delicious and universal favorites delight in a sandy\\nloam plowed five or six inches deep and heavily manured.\\nThe best manure for this crop is well rotted horse manure.\\nBefore planting, or about May ioth, work the soil as fine\\nas possible. Make furrows where the rows are to be, three\\nfeet apart. Scatter the manure (compost is best) in these;\\ncover with plow or hoe by drawing the soil from the sides.\\nL,evel the ridge with a steel rake.\\nAbout May 20th set the plants one foot apart on this\\nridge. Do this just before or after a rain if possible, or\\nwater them thoroughly. The time for setting is ruled by\\nthe season. The plants will take root in forty-eight hours\\nwhen all danger from transplanting is over. A long rooted\\nplant is best and should be set to touch the manure or com-\\npost. The hoe may be used to good advantage at the first\\ncultivation. When the vines are running nicely they\\nshould be lifted up occasionally to prevent their forming\\nnew roots. L,ay up early and dig before frost has injured\\nthem. Cut worms should be caught and made an exam-\\nple of A few broods of young chicks scattered through\\nthe patch will keep down the bugs. Sweet Potatoes may\\nbe dug as soon as large enough and the crop must be har-\\nvested before frost.\\nThe old plan of raising this gem of crops, though almost\\nout of date now is still one of the best and is certain and\\ncheap. The plan was to make a hog or cow yard on a spot\\nsuited to the growth of the Potato, and the crop grown\\non this. Here you can raise the largest and finest tubers\\nyou ever saw. This is also a splendid spot for turnips.\\nAfter digging allow the tubers to dry, then place in a\\nwarm, dry place in sand or road dust gathered in summer.\\nPotatoes (ySolanum tubeiosum). The Potato is a native of\\nthis country and was first discovered by Sir Walter Raleigh\\nin 1586 in Virginia and has become one of the most valuable\\nproducts of the soil and is in universal use throughout the\\nentire civilized world.\\nThe Potato, like all robust growing vegetables, can be", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 65\\ngrown with varying success on soils of varying composition\\nand in all stages of fertility, but a sandy loam is best suited\\nto their growth. Clover sod is excellent and will produce\\ngood crops when well worked and properly fertilized.\\nHeavy soils are liable to produce a sickly, diseased crop\\nand the flavor is also inferior to those raised on a light,\\ndry soil. An old pasture field in good fertility will pro-\\nduce splendid crops, as the decaying sod fills the place of\\nmanure the first season. But as all grow Potatoes and must\\nuse such soil as we have, whether it is suitable or not, we\\nmust make as much as possible out of our land and cir-\\ncumstances.\\nThe manure should be broadcasted on the surface and\\neither plowed or harrowed in. The latter is sometimes\\npreferable, especially if the manure is thoroughly decayed.\\nIf the soil is in good fertility very little fertilizing will be\\nrequired. In. highly enriched soil the crop will be more\\nliable to disease than in cases where the soil is naturally\\ngood. Fresh manure often produces a rough, scabby crop\\nof tubers. The best fertilizers are those of a dry or ab-\\nsorbent nature, bone dust, lime, plaster, superphosphate of\\nlime, etc. In wet localities these are quite beneficial as\\nthey not only promote growth but are a preventive against\\ndisease. A good dressing of wood ashes is good even on\\nrich soil.\\nWhen the main crop is to be grown in the garden, plant\\nas early as the soil is in good working condition and har-\\nvest as soon as ripe. In so doing the soil may be used for\\nturnips, late cabbage, etc., (in this case seed of some early\\nheading variety should be sown) or other second crop veg-\\netable. In the garden the rows need not be more than 2 x 2\\nfeet apart and the hills 18 inches and if the soil is mellow\\nas it should be, about 6 inches deep; while if the soil is\\nhard, wet clay, not more than 4 inches. Cut the sets\\nwith two or three eyes to each. It is also a good plan to cut\\nthe seed a few days before needed, so that the cuts wiljlieal\\nover before planting. By so doing the sets will not be so\\nliable to decay, and, too, they will come up sooner. I\\nwould not under any circumstances recommend the use of\\nsmall, whole potatoes for seed as the eyes are small.\\nThis means weak, spindling tops and as a strong, healthy\\nvine is as essential to the tubers as healthy lungs or hearts\\nare to our good health we may be excused for saying, no\\ntop, no tater. Then again we do not use the nubbins of\\ncorn or light wheat or oats for seed, and why use small\\nPotatoes?\\nThe first crop planted should be of some extra early va-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "66 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nriety. While as a rule these are not good yielders, they\\nfill the vacancy between the old and new crop. The main\\ncrop should be of some of the more robust-growing later-\\nmaturing varieties. After planting keep the soil mellow\\nby giving it a light harrowing as soon as the potatoes\\nare well sprouted. This is quite important, especially if\\nthe soil is inclined to be hard, as it gives the plants a chance\\nto get through and also to get a start in life and at the\\nsame time destroys a crop of weeds. Do not hariow after\\nthey have come up. As soon as the tops show enough to\\nfollow the rows start the cultivator or hoe and loosen the\\nsoil close to the plants and draw a little mellow soil up to\\nthem. They may even be slightly covered without injur-\\ning them. This not only kills another crop of weeds, but\\nalso protects the Potatoes from the ravages of the potato bug.\\nFor planting, select medium sized tubers of the form\\ncharacteristic of the variety. By planting at the depth\\ngiven, very little hilling will be necessary. L,ow, flat ridges\\nare the best, as they retain the moisture and keep the soil\\ncool, which is so much needed from the time cultivation\\nhas ceased until the crop has matured, which is necessary\\nto good yields; while high, abrupt hills shed off the rain\\ntoo readily, leaving the roots dry, which is detrimental to\\nthe crop.\\nTo test the quality of the Potato it should be eaten with-\\nout the addition of any seasoning and will be found best as\\nsoon as cooked. New varieties are originated by sowing\\nthe seed from the seed balls, which is saved as is tomato\\nseed and sown in fine, rich soil and carefully cultivated.\\nThe crops will be of various forms and colors and occasion-\\nally a variety of real merit and worth will be obtained; but\\nthis is not an every-day occurrence.\\nCultivate your crop thoroughly and ridge up just before\\nthe plants come into bloom. Keep the bugs in check by\\nthe methods given in the chapter on Injurious Insects, and\\nsuccess will be yours. Pull all large weeds out of the ridges\\nto give the patch a tidy appearance and to prevent their re-\\nseeding the ground. For myself there is no crop on the\\nfarm that gives more pride than a large crop of nice, large,\\nsmooth Potatoes. The crop should be harvested as soon as\\nthe tops have matured and spread where they will be dry\\nand cool until they have gone through the sweat.\\nWhen storing for winter it is a good idea to sort them,\\nplacing each grade by itself, storing those which you wish\\nto keep in a cool, dry and dark place. The small ones\\nmake splendid feed for little pigs when boiled and mashed\\nand mixed with their food. Handle the tubers carefullv", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 67\\nwhen sorting so as not to bruise them or they will decay.\\nNicely sorted Potatoes give a much finer appearance than a\\nmixed lot and are much nicer to cook and also give a\\nwell set appearance to any table. The tubers may be\\nburied or pitted in the garden as are beets, carrots, etc.\\nbut there is no place better suited to their storage than a\\nwell ventilated cellar.\\nRadish (Raphanus sativus). A book entitled The Rad-\\nish was written before the time of Christ. The ancient\\nGreeks used to offer turnips, beets and radishes in their ob-\\nlations to Apollo. The first was offered in dishes of lead,\\nthe second in silver and the third in vessels of beaten\\ngold.\\nTo obtain good, crisp, sweet eating Radishes they must\\nbe grown quickly. The most suitable soil is one moder-\\nately light, and which has been fairly manured for some\\nprevious crop. Sowings should be made throughout the\\nsummer so as to always have a supply. Beautiful, crisp\\nRadishes may be had throughout the winter by sowing\\nsome of the winter varieties in August.\\nFor an early crop seed should be sown in the hot bed in\\ndrills five or six inches apart and half an inch deep. Give\\nbut little heat and plenty of air. For an earfy crop outside\\nsow on a south border under the shelter of a fence or build-\\ning if possible. A supply of fresh, sand}^ loam from the\\nwoods is better than manure for the Radish crop. As soon\\nas the first leaves appear sprinkle with ashes or soot (when\\ndry) to save them from the little black flea beetle.\\nThe winter varieties should be sown in July or early in\\nAugust when they will make fine large roots for winter\\nuse and will be greatly relished. The3^ should be dug be-\\nfore severe freezing weather and pitted out of doors or\\nburied in earth in a cool cellar. They will then keep crisp\\nall winter. An hour before using place in cold water. The\\nheart leaves of the Radish should be eaten along with the\\nRadish to aid in digesting the Radish itself. The young\\nseed leaves may be used as a salad while the green seed\\npods, especially of R. Catidatus, make excellent pickles.\\nRadishes may be sown thinly along with carrots, beets,\\netc, to good advantage.\\nRhubarb or Pie-Plant (Rheum kybrzdum).\u00e2\u0080\u0094;Thisvegetable,\\nfamiliarly known as Pie- Plant, is cultivated for its leaf\\nstalks, which are used for pies and tarts. No private gar-\\nden large or small should be without its bed of Rhubarb,\\nas it comes very early and is quite healthful.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "68 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nIt succeeds best in a deep, somewhat retentive soil. The\\nricher the soil and the deeper stirred the better. Sow the\\nseed in drills six inches apart and an inch deep and thin the\\nplants to six inches apart. The soil should be rich and\\nmellow, when strong plants will be obtained in one season,\\nbut very little cutting should be done until the third year.\\nIn the fall after sowing transplant the young plants into\\nhighly manured soil three feet each way and give a dressing\\nof coarse manure every fall. Do not allow the plants to\\nexhaust themselves by running to seed. Plants set out in\\nrich soil in the spring are in fine condition the second season.\\nTo do the best Rhubarb must be divided and reset every\\nfew years. The bed, if prepared with care, will stand sev-\\neral years if the soil selected is a rich, deep loam that is\\nmellow and not subject to injury by drought. As it is a\\ngross feeder the soil can scarcely be made too rich it should\\nbe plowed deeply and the subsoil should also be broken, in\\nall to the depth of 15 to 18 inches. The planting is best\\ndone in April or November. If done in the fall some of\\nthe heads will winter-kill and will need replanting. The\\nsoil should be put in as good order as for corn. The sets\\nare then set in rows at the distance given and covered two\\ninches deep, one set in a place, with fine soil. Care should\\nbe taken that the sets do not become withered from expos-\\nure to sun or wind.\\nThe cultivation the first year is simply frequent tillage\\nor hoeing to destroy the weeds. The stalks should be al-\\nlowed to grow, so as to establish the roots. The second\\nseason the stalks will be ready to gather but you must cut\\nsparingly until the third season. For three or four seasons\\nthe crop will be in perfection. Give the bed a very heavy\\ndressing of manure ever} 7 fall after the frost has killed the\\nleaves. It will be necessary to cultivate two or three times\\nin the spring to destroy the weeds that may appear.\\nIn the spring two or three weeks before the frost has\\ngone, cover a few of the roots with barrels and bank these\\nwith a heap of horse manure and in a short time you will\\nhave tender and delicious Pie-plant in abundance. Or an-\\nother way is to dig up some well grown roots in November,\\nstoring them in a cool place until February, when they may\\nbe taken out and placed in the cellar and covered with a\\nfew inches of loam. No light, but a temperature of 6o\u00c2\u00b0 is\\nall that is necessary, except that the roots will need an\\nabundance of water as they come into growth. Pull the\\nstalks when about a foot long.\\nThe forced roots are worthless for future use and are\\nthrown away. To have a supply of nice juicy stalks for", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 69\\nfall use keep the old ones pulled and cultivate in August\\nand growth will again commence. Rhubarb will thrive\\nunder almost any treatment when the soil is moist, but not\\nwet.\\nSage {Salvia officinallis). As this herb is an universal\\nfavorite it may be well to give the reader a few hints as to\\nits culture.\\nSow the seed in drills one foot apart and cover about an\\ninch deep with very fine soil. This should be done in the\\nspring when the soil has become warm. When the plants\\nhave grown a few inches in height set them in rows eighteen\\ninches apart each way. Cultivate several times during the\\nseason.\\nSage is quite hardy and if the soil is not wet it will re-\\nmain in the garden all winter, but it is best to give some\\nprotection, however. In the spring take up the plants,\\nseparate the roots and reset them.\\nSome gardeners treat this crop as an annual where it is\\ngrown on a large scale by sowing the seed in the spring,\\ngathering the leaves before frost and then plowing the plants\\nunder. I think, however, for garden use it is best to follow\\nthe directions given, cutting the stems or plucking the\\nleaves just before the plants bloom, spreading them in the\\nshade to dry. If seed is desired allow some of the best\\nplants to ripen. When ripe the seed is black and when it\\nreaches that condition the stems bearing it should be cut\\nand .dried. Holt s Mammoth is the best and is grown from\\nplants (that is, by layering) only.\\nPlants of either variety may be grown by laying down\\nsome of the branches and covering them with soil. If\\ngrown at home you are sure of it being fresh; while if ob-\\ntained at the grocery it is liable to be old and its flavor gone\\nor almost so, making it of little value.\\nSalsify Tragopogon porrifolius) This is one of the most\\ndelicious and healthful of vegetables and should be more\\ngenerally grown for winter use, when the supply of really\\ngood vegetables is so scarce. It prefers a fairly good,\\nlight soil; but to have well-shaped, clean and straight roots\\nuse thoroughly decayed manured thoroughly mixed with\\nthe soil which should be stirred to a good depth. Soil\\nmade rich for some previous crop is best suited to its growth,\\nas coarse manure would surely cause the roots to grow un-\\neven and ill-shaped.\\nPrepare the soil thoroughly and sow as early as the soil\\ncan be worked. It should be sown quite deeply, about two", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "70 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\ninches, giving the culture recommended for the parsnip.\\nThe rows should be about one foot apart. When ready thin\\nto six inches apart. The roots are perfectly hardy and may\\nremain where grown all winter but must be dug early be-\\nfore growth commences, as the quality deteriorates rapidly\\nafter that; or they may be taken up and stored in a pit as\\nare beets, carrots, etc.\\nSalsify has a grassy top and a long, white, tapering root\\nwhich closely resembles a parsnip, while it closely assimu-\\nlates to the taste and flavor of the oyster, when properly\\nprepared, for which it is sometimes used as a substitute\\nhence its name, Oyster plant. The roots are either boiled\\nor mashed and made into fritters, in which form they are\\ndelicious, and in fact a great luxury.\\nSpinach (Spinacea oleracea). Spinach thrives in any good\\ngarden soil but the richer the soil the more succulent will\\nbe the leaves.\\nFor a succession of this crop. sowings of the round leafed\\nsorts should be made from early spring to June. For win-\\nter use seed of the hardy varieties may be sown in August\\nor September, in rich but well drained soil in rows one foot\\napart, and when about one inch wide the plants should be\\nthinned to four inches apart. On the approach of winter\\nthe plants should be protected by straw, leaves or litter in the\\nnorth. Seed of the ordinary sorts should be sown in drills\\none foot apart and one inch deep. Thin as above and cut\\nthe plants while young and tender.\\nSpinach makes a most delicious dish and cooks a beauti-\\nful green, is very hardy and extremely wholesome and pal-\\natable. All Spinach should be cut before hot weather or\\nit will be tough and stringy. In the southern states it\\nneeds no protection but will continue to grow most of the\\nwinter. The New Zealand variety Tetragonia expansa)\\nsupplies the place of the ordinary varieties during the sum-\\nmer months. Sow in May where the plants are to grow\\nand they will yield abundantly all summer, requiring but\\nvery little attention.\\nSquash {Cucurbita ovifera). As stated in pumpkin cul-\\nture the Squash has been known for centuries. These, like\\nthe other members of the Cucurbita family, are of tropi-\\ncal origin; therefore it is useless to plant them before the\\nsoil is warm and all danger of frost or cold nights is past.\\nAnd as they make a very rapid growth there is no necessity\\nof getting the seed into the ground so early as to endanger\\nthe crop. Squashes are strong feeders and must have a", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 71\\nrich soil. It is most economical to manure in the hill as for\\nmelons, pumpkins, etc. Hen manure makes an excellent\\nfertilizer for Squashes.\\nFor the bush varieties make the hills three feet apart,\\nwhile for the running varieties they should be twice this\\ndistance. The former are used while young and tender,\\nwhile the latter when thoroughly ripened will usually keep\\ntill spring, when the bush varieties are again ready. When\\nproperly matured the winter varieties are dry and sweet,\\nwhile if not thoroughly ripened they are watery and lack\\nsweetness and richness and will not keep through the win-\\nter. These, like melons, should be encouraged to make a\\nstrong growth early in the season.\\nThe shell of the Hubbard and some others when ripe is\\nas hard as the shell of a cocoanut. When ready for use the\\nskin of the summer varieties may be cut with the nail with-\\nout difficulty, while if any push is required they are too old\\nfor use, and will be tough and stringy when cooked. The\\nwinter varieties in some sections are more difficult to raise\\nas they are subject to the attacks of the borer which\\ncuts them off under the surface, and for this reason the\\nplants should not be thinned before they are a foot long to\\ninsure against loss.\\nThe Squashes should be gathered before any hard frosts,\\nand should be stored in a cool, airy room where they will\\nusually keep well till late in the spring. All varieties\\nshould be sown as early as possible after the soil becomes\\nsufficiently warm. A few hills may be sown earlier and\\ncovered with straw if there is any danger of J. Frost nip-\\nping the tender plants. The land should be rich; the richer\\nthe better, and should contain sufficient sand to make it\\nwarm and light. A southern slope is best for all vine crops\\nso they can secure the warm rays of the sun. Cultivate\\nthe space between the rows as well as around the hills un-\\ntil the vines cover the surface. Watch for and destroy the\\nbugs and cultivate quite shallow around the plants. I have\\noften grown good crops when planted with early potatoes,\\nthus economizing space.\\nSome of the winter varieties are equally good for summer\\nuse if they are used while quite young. If these are planted\\nthe one sowing will do for both seasons. When gathering\\nthe crop care must be taken not to break the stem from\\nthose intended for winter use, as the slightest injury will\\nincrease the liability to decay.\\nTurnip (Brassica Rapa). Every garden should contain\\na supply of these throughout the season. A rich, mellow", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "72\\nTHE FARMER S GARDEN\\nsoil with a fair amount of moisture is most suitable for\\ngrowing sweet, crisp and tender turnips, but any soil well\\nstirred and manured will grow them well. This splendid\\nvegetable is very easily affected in flavor as well as form by\\nweather, soil, culture, etc.\\nA very good crop may be grown on soil previously occu-\\npied by early potatoes or any early crop. After digging the\\npotatoes, level and firm the soil by rolling or otherwise to\\nretain the moisture and sow the seed either broadcast or in\\ndrills. I would prefer to drill them as they can then be culti-\\nvated which will greatly hasten their maturity. Getting\\nStoring Vegetables for Winter Use.\\nThe above illustration really belongs in the general intoductory, pages 5 to 24,\\nbut was by mistake omitted.\\nDirections\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Select a spot that is high and dry, and place straw to the depth of\\n6 or 8 inches on the ground. Pile the vegetables, (beets, carrots, turnips, pota-\\ntoes, etc.), on this, putting from 5 to 20 bushels in a pile, heaping them up cone\\nshape. Now cover them with straw or marsh hay. This may be omitted (except in\\ncase of potatoes), but is of great advantage in keeping the vegetables clean and as\\na protection against frost. On this straw a small drain tile should be set to serve\\nas a ventilator. Soil should now be thrown on the straw and around the tile\\n(packing it firmly so as to prevent the heavy rains and melting snows from soak-\\ning in), and to a sufficient depth to prevent the freezing of the contents of the pit\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094from 6 inches to 1 foot is usually sufficient, according to your locality. On the\\napproach of severe weather the tile should be filled with straw and a board laid\\non top to exclude frosts. When severe weather sets in cover the mound with corn\\nstalks or straw as a further precaution, and vou can enjoy vegetables all winter\\nas fresh and crisp as when first dug. Rats and mice are very destructive to vege-\\ntables thus stored and must be guarded against.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 73\\nthe soil into a finely prepared state before sowing is of the\\ngreatest importance. For an early crop sow in April, while\\nfor a succession of summer and autumn crops make an oc-\\ncasional sowing up to the end of July. For winter use sow\\nin August or September.\\nTurnips to be of fine quality must be grown quickly;\\ntherefore sow in drills twelve to fifteen inches apart, thin-\\nning them to eight inches apart. Keep free from weeds\\nwhile small by giving them an occasional cultivating which\\nwill also greatly facilitate their growth.\\nTurnips may be preserved until spring by cutting off the\\ntops about an inch from the bulb and storing in the cellar\\nor cool shed and covering them with dry sand; or they may\\nbe pitted in the garden like other roots. Or store them in\\nbarrels along the cellar wall and cover with sand or turf, or\\nthey may be piled on the cellar floor and covered with straw\\neight or ten inches deep.\\nHistory proves that Turnips were in use as a garden vege-\\ntable before the christian era. Where we have long win-\\nters the family gardener should always try to keep the table\\nwell supplied with vegetables. If you have a dark corner\\nin your green house or a cellar that excludes frost, a few\\ninches of sand or soil may be placed on the floor; on this\\nTurnips may be placed close together and gently pressed\\ninto it, after which give them a watering and close them\\nup. In a short time your heart will be gladdened by beau-\\ntiful blanched leaf stalks. These should be cut and tied in\\nbunches as is asparagus and cooked in a similar manner;\\nthey will then be pronounced excellent. In this way\\nyou can have a very delicious vegetable all winter by plant-\\ning at intervals.\\nTomato (Lycopersiaim esculentinn) The growth of this\\ndelicious vegetable has progressed by leaps and bounds\\nand will continue to advance in public estimation. Only a\\nfew years ago when grandmother was a girl they were\\nknown as love apples and considered as being poisonous,\\nbeing grown as a curiosity, their bright scarlet fruits being\\nconsidered very attractive. It is a mistake to suppose that\\nthere is any difficulty in its cultivation, as it may be suc-\\ncessfully grown in any well kept garden.\\nSow the seed in hot bed or box placed in a sunny window\\nwhere the temperature does not fall below 6o\u00c2\u00b0 about the\\nfirst of March or ten weeks before the last frost is expected,\\nin rows about five inches apart and one-half inch deep.\\nWhen the plants are about two inches high transplant in\\nboxes or hot beds, setting them about four inches apart", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "74 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\neach way, in same temperature; or they may be set in small\\npots one plant to each pot and set them in the hot bed; by\\nthis method the plants are rendered more stocky and\\nbranching. Give the plants plenty of air on pleasant days\\nto prevent their becoming drawn and to make them bushy.\\nTransplant to the open ground as soon as all danger from\\nfrost is past, in hills 3x3 feet apart for an early crop, on\\na light soil with a dry subsoil, having previously mixed a\\nshovelful of thoroughly decayed manure with the soil. On\\nheavy soil not suited to an early crop the plants should be\\nset 4x4 feet apart. In transplanting dig a hole large\\nenough to hold the roots without much crowding, set the\\nplant and pour water into the hole and gently fill up the\\nhole with mellow soil, shading the plants from the sun for\\na day or two until they become established. These and\\negg plants are the second choice of the potato bug, the\\nold fashioned one especially. To hasten the maturity\\nof the first fruits, pinch out the tips of the vines and all the\\nsecondary shoots that appear above the flowers. The to-\\nmato may also be grown in the green house by following\\nthe above rules. While some train their plants to a single\\nvine others prefer a small ladder, while others allow -them\\nto take the course provided by nature, i. e.,that of lying on\\nthe ground.\\nThere seems to be no preventative for the rot which quite\\noften attacks the tomato. As is well known, if the chick-\\nens can get into the garden they will play havoc with the\\ncrop. Watch for the large tomato worm, for they will de-\\nstroy your vines if they themselves are not killed. These\\nworms make a peculiar sound when disturbed and are said\\nto be poisonous.\\nThere is another species of the tomato plant known as\\nthe Strawberry, Husk or Ground Cherry tomato, {Alke-\\nkcngi) which grows enclosed in a husk, similar to the\\nground cherry, and are cultivated similar to the Tomato\\nproper. The fruits are about the size of the hickory nut,\\nand of a bright golden yellow color. When used as fruit\\nfor dessert, in pies or preserves they are simply grand.\\nBy picking all ripe fruit from tomato vines the yield will\\nbe greatly increased and .the period of bearing greatly\\nlengthened. All rotten specimens should also be gathered.\\nIn very rich garden soil tomatoes often make such a rank\\ngrowth of vine as to shade and blight the blossoms. To\\nprevent this thin out the branches so as to admit sun and\\nair to penetrate, or try the Tree tomato tied to a single\\nstake. Tomatoes are best when used fresh from the vine.\\nA slight check received while the plants are small will ma-\\nterially lessen the crop.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 75\\nQuantity of Seed Required\\nto produce a given number of plants and to sow an acre of\\nground. Good seeds should always be sown regardless of\\nprice. Poor seeds are dear even as a gift.\\nNames of Seeds and Number of Plants. Amount Per Acre\\nArtichoke, i ounce to 600 plants, 6 ounces\\nAsparagus, 1 ounce to 1500 plants, to transplant, ..2 pounds\\nBarley, 2 y 2 bushels\\nBeans, Dwarf, 1 pint to 1 quart to 100 feet,.. 1 to 2 bushels\\nBeans, Pole, large, 1 quart to 100 hills, 3^ bushel\\nBeans, Pole, small, 1 quart to 200 hills, iy 2 peck\\nBeet, garden, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill, in rows 3\\nfeet apart, 4 pounds\\nBeet, Mangel, 1 ounce to 100 feet, 6 to 8 pounds\\nBrocoli, 1 oz to 9000 plants, iy ounces\\nBrussels Sprouts, 1 ounce to 12000 plants, 1 ounce\\nBuckwheat y 2 bushel\\nCabbage, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, 2 ounces\\nCarrot 1 ounce to 200 feet of drill 3 to 4 pounds\\nCauliflower, 1 ounce to 7000 to 9000 plants,... 1 to y 2 ounces\\nCelery, 1 ounce to 35000 to 70000, if sown thinly, 2 ounces\\nClover, White and Alsace, 6 pounds\\nClover, Lucerne, L. Red and Crimson Trefoil, 8 pounds\\nClover, Medium 10 pounds\\nCollards, 1 ounce to 9500 plants, to transplant, 2 ounces\\nCorn Broom 10 pounds\\nCorn, Pop, (Rice), 2 quarts\\nCorn, Sweet, 1 pint to 100 hills, 300 feet of row,\\nS to 10 quarts\\nCorn, Field, 8 to 10 quarts\\nCress, Fine Curled, 1 ounce to 12000 plants, Water\\nCress, 1 ounce to 160000 plants, Upland Cress\\n1 ounce to 80000 plants, 12 pounds\\nCucumbers, 1 ounce to 50 hills, in hills 3x3 feet, 3 pounds\\nEgg Plant, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, 4000 per acre,. 34 ounce\\nEndive, 1 ounce to 100 feet, in rows 3 feet apart,.. 3 pounds\\nFlax, sown broadcast y bushel\\nGarlic, 1 pound to 10 feet\\nGourds, 1 ounce to 25 hills,\\nGrass, Kentucky Blue, 2 bushels\\nGrass, English Blue, 1 bushel\\nGrass, Hungarian Millet, y to 1 bushel\\nGrass, Fawn, Mixed 3 to 4 bushels\\nGrass, Orchard, Perrennial Rye, Red Top, Fowl\\nGrass, Meadow and Woods Meadow, 2 bushels", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "76 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nGrass, Redtop, Fancy, 8 to 10 pounds\\nGrass, Timothy, bushel\\nHemp, bushel\\nKale or Borecole, i ounce to 9000 plants, 2 ounces\\nKohl Rabi, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, in row 3 feet\\napart 4 pounds\\nLeek, 1 ounce to 9000 plants, 100 feet of drill 4 pounds\\nLettuce, 1 ounce to 1200 ft., 30000 plants 3 pounds\\nMartynia, 1 ounce to 100 plants, 5 pounds\\nMelon, Musk, 1 ounce to 50 hills, in hills 4x4 ft. 3 pounds\\nMelon, Water, 2 ounces to 50 hills, 3pounds\\nMustard, varies greatly,\\nNasturtium 1 ounce to 200 feet, 15 pounds\\nOats 2 bushels\\nOkra, 1 ounce to 50 feet or 50 hills, 8 pounds\\nOnion, Seed, for large bulbs, 1 ounce to 200 feet. .4 pounds\\nOnion, Seed for sets, 50 to 60 pounds\\nOnion Sets, vary greatly according to size, 1 quart\\nto 40 to 100 feet, 8 to 10 bushels\\nParsnips, 1 ounce to 200 feet, 3 to 4 pounds\\nParsley, 1 ounce to 200 feet, 15000 plants, 4 pounds\\nPeas, Early, 1 quart to 125 feet, 2% bushels\\nPeas, L,ate, 1 quart to 200 feet, 2^ bushels\\nPepper, about 1 ounce to 5000 to 9000 plants, 10000\\nplants per acre, 1 toi^ ounces\\nPotatoes, 8 to 12 bushels\\nPumpkin, 1 pound to 300 hills, 3 to 5 pounds\\nRadish, 1 ounce to 100 feet, on an average, 14 pounds\\nRhubarb, 1 ounce to 2000 plants, 2^ ounces\\nRye, 1 bushels\\nSalsify, 1 ounce to 100 feet, 8 pounds\\nSpinach, 1*4 ounces to 100 feet, in drills, 8 pounds\\nSquash, Summer, 2 ounces to 50 hills, 3 pounds\\nSquash, Winter, 2 ounces to 25 hills, 4 pounds\\nTomato, 1 ounce to 10000 plants, sown thinly, 2 ounces\\nTobacco, 1 ounce to 2500 plants, 3 ounces\\nTurnips, 1 ounce to 200 feet of drill, broadcast 1\\npound, in drills, 2 to 3 pounds\\nTares or Vetches, 2 bushels\\nWheat, 1% to 2 bushels\\nThe above is based on seeds of first class qualitj", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT\\nNumber of Trees, Plant or Shrubs.\\n77\\nAfter giving the foregoing we give the following table so\\nthat you can easily ascertain the number of trees, plants or\\nshrubs required to plant any given space at almost any dis-\\ntance:\\nDistance apart\\nNo. of plants per acre\\n3 inches by 3 inches 696,960\\n4 4 392,040\\n6 6 174,240\\n9 9 77,440\\n1 foot by 6 inches 87,126\\nI\\n1^\\n2\\n2\\n2^\\n3\\n3\\n3\\n3\\n3^\\n4\\n4\\n4\\n4\\n4\\n4^\\n5\\n5\\n5\\n5\\n5\\n5\\n5%\\n6\\ney 2\\n7\\n8\\n9\\n10\\nI I\\n12\\n13\\n15\\n16\\n1 foot 43,56o\\nfeet by 1^ feet 19,360\\n6 inches 21,792\\n1 foot 10,896\\n2}4 feet 6,960\\n6 inches 29,040\\n1 foot 14,520\\n2 feet 7,260\\n3 4,840\\n3 *A feet 3-555\\n6 inches 21,780\\n1 foot 10,890\\n2 feet 5,445\\n3 3,630\\n4 2,722\\n4^ feet 2,151\\n6 inches I7 4 2 4\\n1 foot\\n2 feet\\n3\\n4\\n5\\n5%\\n6\\ney\\n7\\n8\\n9\\n10\\n1 r\\n12\\n13\\n15\\n16\\n8,712\\n4,35.6\\n2,904\\n2,178\\ni,742\\nfeet 1,44\u00c2\u00b0\\n1,210\\n1,031\\n888\\n680\\n537\\n435\\n360\\n302\\n257\\n222\\n193\\nT70", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "78 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nfeet by 17 feet 150\\n134\\n120\\n108\\n69\\n17 te\\net by 17 tee\\n18\\n18\\n19\\n19\\n20\\n20\\n25\\n25\\n30\\n30\\n33\\n33\\n40\\n40\\n50\\n50\\n60\\n60\\n66\\n66\\n40\\n27\\n17\\n12\\nIO\\nBy reference to this table and the preceding one it is a\\nvery simple matter to calculate just how much seed or the\\nnumber of plants will be required to plant a given space.\\nOf course it is impossible to tell to a certainty just how\\nmany plants a given amount of seed will produce, as much\\ndepends on the quality of the seed used; but good seed will,\\nwith proper care, give about the number stated. It is al-\\nways a good plan to test your seeds as to their vitality,\\npurity, etc. The following is a good way: Place 100 seeds\\nin a small box of earth or sand; keep at a temperature\\nabout the same as they would be if in the open ground or\\nhotbed as the case might be. If good they will soon germi-\\nnate. The number germinating will indicate the percent-\\nage good. Plant accordingly. Age has a marked effect on\\nthe vitality of seeds. Fresh seeds are always to be desired,\\nas they germinate more quickly. It is said, however, that\\nthe older cabbage seed is, not to have lost its vitality, the\\nbetter; while the older vine seeds are, the thicker will be\\nthe flesh. In a work of this nature we do not have space\\nto enter into the details of this, but a great deal may be\\nlearned by experimenting and noticing the effects of such\\nexperiments. As to how long seeds will retain their vital-\\nity is uncertain as so much depends on the state of their\\nmaturity when harvested, and the way in which they were\\nafterwards cared for. For examining seeds as to purity,\\nscatter them on a piece of black card board when the for-\\neign grains may be readily observed.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "Every garden large or small should produce sufficient\\nsmall fruits for at least home requirements, for the follow-\\ning reasons: First, because they materially lessen the ex-\\npense of keeping up the table; second, because they are\\nhealthy and nutritious diet; and third, because no garden is\\ncomplete without them. By judicious selection and care-\\nful planting you may have an abundance of ripe, delicious\\nberries from June ist to October ist; strawberries for June,\\nraspberries for July, blackberries for August, and grapes\\nfor September and October.\\nIt is a very common sight in nearly all gardens to see the\\nfruit bushes of all kinds planted along the fences, causing not\\nonly a loss of half of the fruit, as it can only be borne on one\\nside of the bushes, but causing much unnecessary labor in\\nkeeping the soil worked and unless cultivated frequently\\nthe plot soon becomes an unpenetrable jungle of weeds and\\nbriers and will be pronounced no good.\\nThe hardiness of a plant is not determined by the severity\\nof the weather so much as by its ability to stand the alter-\\nnate freezing and thawing in close succession. For the\\nreason just given I would prefer to have the small fruit\\nplot on the north side of the garden, especially if it is the\\nhighest and if there is some kind of a wind-break to pro-\\ntect the bushes, as this will cause the snow to drift around\\nthem and be longer about them, making a natural protec-\\ntion, while the slope of the soil will cause the surface water\\nto drain awaj quickly, so that it will not stand around the\\nplants and damage them by freezing about the crowns. The\\nmost suitable soil in which to grow small fruits is a deep\\nrich loam well drained. Never under any circumstances\\nuse weak plants or plants that are infected in any way, or\\ndisappointment is sure to be your reward.\\nStrawberry {Frag aria virginiand) As Strawberries are\\nthe first to mature their delicious fruits, we will first consider\\ntheir culture. The first thin? to do is to start right; and", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "80 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nthat means to select a good clean plot of ground, prepare it\\nthoroughly and set out the plants. Strawberries will thrive\\non any good soil that will produce good garden crops or a\\ngood crop of corn. Prepare your soil as early in the spring\\nas circumstances will permit by plowing deep, thoroughly\\npulverizing, heavily manuring and well draining. There are\\nso many ways of culture that it is difficult to say which is best.\\nFor garden culture, set the plants two feet each way and\\nlet one runner grow between each plant one way and keep\\noff all other runners. This would cause the plants to be\\none foot apart in the rows until the first of September when\\nonty the surface should be cultivated, so as to destroy what\\nfew weeds would grow after this, as the plants now begin\\nto produce numerous lateral runners, which if disturbed\\nwould injure the crop. For large plump berries keep the\\nplants in hills.\\nAlthough some plant in August or September, which will\\nanswer in many cases, I would recommend spring planting.\\nBut if one has good potted plants and is careful in planting\\nhe may have a crop the following season. These potted\\nplants are obtained by filling small pots with rich soil and\\nsinking them up to the brim in the earth near the best\\nplants in July, when vigorously throwing out runners; and\\npress the runners where the plant is forming down into the\\nsoil of the pot, placing a small clod or stone to hold it in\\nplace. Nip off the end of the runner beyond the plant. As\\nsoon as the roots fill the pot cut the runner from the parent\\nplant and turn the new plant out and plant with all the soil\\nclinging to the roots.\\nWhen planting, draw a line and make the hole with a\\ntrowel or spade. Take the plant in the left hand, spread\\nthe roots fan shaped in the hole; press the soil to the roots\\nand the work is done. Be sure your plants have good\\nroots. Do not cover the crown of the plant or it will die.\\nNever allow the plants to wilt while setting. Keep them\\nwet and the soil will adhere to them and cause them\\nto grow quickty. A good plan is to keep the plants in a\\nbucket with the roots in water. If the roots are long cut\\noff about one-third of their length. This will cause them\\nto produce a multitude of new roots which is very benefi-\\ncial. Commence to stir the soil early in the season before\\nthe weeds begin to grow, keeping the soil clean and mel-\\nlow throughout the season. Pinch off all blossoms as soon\\nas they appear for if left on they will fruit and cause many\\nof the plants to die and weaken all of them.\\nWhen the ground freezes late in the fall so that it will\\nhold your weight, cover the plants with straw, leaves or", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 81\\nstrawy manure. Do not cover until the soil is frozen hard\\nnor so deep as to smother the plants, and remove cover-\\ning before the plants start in the spring. This mulching\\nnot only protects the plants from the cold, from heaving\\nout of the ground by the alternate freezing and thawing,\\nbut also keeps the fruit clean and the soil clean and in fine\\ncondition throughout the fruiting season. When straw-\\nberries require washing they lose a considerable part of\\ntheir flavor.\\nWhere economy is necessary stick to the old favorites.\\nDon t experiment with high priced, highly lauded varieties\\nmore than on a small scale. Leave experiments to those\\nwho have money to spare. In selecting varieties be content\\nwith such varieties as your neighbor succeeds with as a great\\nmany of the new ones are worthless and dear as a gift.\\nThe strawberry bed cannot be kept in one place as it\\nmust be renewed quite frequently. A very satisfactory\\nplan is to plant a new bed each year, plowing up the old\\none as soon as done bearing. This is an excellent spot on\\nwhich to raise some splendid turnips or late cucumbers.\\nEconomy is wealth, and wealth is what we all want.\\nThere are three varieties of Strawberry plants as distin-\\nguished by their sex. These are Staminate, Pistilate and\\nHermaphrodite. The first is purely male, the second purely\\nfemale, while the third is a union of both sexes. The\\nformer never bears but is used to fertilize the pistilates;\\nwhile the latter or hermaphrodites are bi-sexual and pro-\\nduce of themselves. The pistilate varieties include some of\\nour most productive varieties when planted near those of a\\nperfect flowering character. Be sure to use well rotted\\nmanure freely.\\nRaspberry. This splendid fruit is next in season to the\\nstrawberry, and is not only delicious but very healthful and\\nshould have a place in every garden. The soil best adapted\\nto their growth is a rich gravelly loam, not too rich, but\\nshould be in good condition. Where they are planted in a\\ntoo rich soil they are apt to grow too rank and be easily\\nkilled by the severe winter weather.\\nRaspberries are of two classes Antwerps and Black caps.\\nThe first propagates itself from suckers like the black-\\nberry, while the latter increases from tips which grow in\\nthe latter part of the season from the branches which bend\\nover and take root. If these fail to root naturally they\\nshould be buried in August or September where a supply is\\ndesired. Treat all surplus ones like weeds. It is best to\\nplant Antwerps in rather thin soil and manure iri the hills,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "82 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nusing well rotted manure. Black caps (Rubus occidentalis)\\nrequire richer soil.\\nMake the rows five feet apart and set the plants about\\nthree feet apart in the rows and about three inches deep;\\nspread the roots in every direction, then cover the roots\\nwith fine soil. If planted in the autumn, make a mound of\\nearth over each hill to prevent the water from standing\\naround the crowns, and to prevent the frost from heaving\\nthem out. In the spring draw it away. Care should be\\ntaken not to break the tender germ at the root of the plant\\nwhen planting; for if broken off it will take considerable\\ntime to start another if it starts at all. Cultivate thor-\\noughly, destroying every weed if you expect success. When\\nthe plants have attained one foot in height nip off the tip of\\nthe plant; this will cause them to branch and become stocky.\\nAll branches should be treated in a similar manner, and the\\nsecond year trim all steins to within one foot of the main\\nstalk. When this is not attended to the plants are liable to\\nover bear and be almost useless afterwards. The second\\nseason after planting they will produce a few berries. Cul-\\ntivate the same as first year.\\nWhen the plants are about two feet high nip out the tips\\nof the plants and when the side shoots are of same length\\nthey should be treated in like manner. As soon as the\\nfruiting season is over, cut out the old growth (that is that\\nwhich has just borne) so as to give the new growth plenty\\nof space; trim back side branches in the spring. When\\ntrimmed in this manner stakes are not necessary. After\\nthe first year cultivation should be shallow so as to not in-\\njure the roots and cause them to throw up numerous sprouts.\\nTreat all suckers as weeds, cutting them off with a sharp\\nhoe just underneath the surface, but not deep enough to in-\\njure the roots. Allow about three stalks to come up in\\neach hill every year.\\nClean out the bushes thoroughly and burn all trimmings.\\nIt is not safe to cultivate after July as they will grow too\\nlate and consequently winter kill. Raspberry plantations\\narrive at perfection the third year after their formation, and\\nif properly cared for will produce for a long time. As a\\nrule it is not advisable, however, to retain them for more\\nthan seven or eight years; and whenever there is a falling\\noff in yield it is a pretty good sign that the plot should be\\nrenewed.\\nThe Blackberry, This delicious favorite follows the rasp-\\nberry, and as there is certainly none more wholesome ev-\\neryone should raise at least sufficient for home use. There", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 83\\nare, however, a great many people who depend on the fence\\ncorners for a supply. As these are often of very inferior\\nquality, and are not always to be had, everyone should\\nhave a generous supply for daily use, and should have\\nthem where they can be readily obtained, for there is no\\nfruit more easily grown.\\nSelect a plot of ground not very moist or rich. If ele-\\nvated, so much the better, as they are not so liable to win-\\nter kill. Moderately rich soil of a clayey or gravelly na-\\nture seems to suit the Blackberry, for if the soil is very rich\\nthey make too much wood and are not so productive. Plant\\nas early in the spring as possible. Make furrows where the\\nrows are to be and spread thoroughly rotted manure or\\ncompost in these. This will give the young plants a good\\nstart, causing the roots to grow along the row instead of\\nspreading out. Make the rows six feet apart and three\\nfeet between the plants. The space between the rows may\\nbe occupied by corn, potatoes, etc.\\nCultivate shallow but thoroughly, being careful not to\\ninjure the roots and never take plants from a bearing plan-\\ntation. The cultivation for the first season is the same as\\nthat given for raspberries. In the second as well as suc-\\nceeding seasons nip off the tips when the plants attain a\\ngrowth of four or five feet. If they are left to grow their\\nentire length they will not bear so well and, too, they will\\nbend over and interfere with the future care of the planta-\\ntion. Use the hoe on every sucker as though it was a weed,\\nexcept those that are required for the future crop. Keep\\nthese in a direct row not more than eighteen inches\\napart.\\nAs soon as the fruiting season is over cut out the canes\\nthat have borne fruit, as the} r are of no further use. Mulch\\nwith corn stalks, dry manure, leaves, or anything that will\\nanswer the purpose. This not only prevents evaporation\\nwhich is detrimental to the crop, but as it decays it will\\nfurnish a good dressing of manure. In early spring stir the\\nsoil lightly.\\nFrom 75 to 100 plants will produce all the berries needed\\nfor all purposes. Cultivate like corn. As before stated\\nnever dig plants from those intended for fruiting. Roots\\nmay be taken up in the autumn and cut into pieces about\\nfour inches long and packed in sand, keeping them moist\\nbut not wet. Buds will soon develop and in the spring\\nplant as are peas or beans. Keep the soil mellow and clean\\nand by the coming fall or spring your plants will be ready\\nfor use. And, oh yes! Don t wait till the old patch is\\nworn out before starting: a new one. In case the soil crusts", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "84 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\naround the young plants they must be helped through care-\\nfully or they will break and be injured.\\nThere is another species of this fruit known as the Dew-\\nberry. The fruit is handsome, pips large, of a deep shin-\\ning black, juicy, melting and of finest flavor. Itslow trail-\\ning habit will probably require mulching of straw or other\\nmaterial to prevent the fruit from lying on the ground. In\\nsize and quality it equals any of the tall growing sorts. The\\nplants are perfectly hard} 7 healthy and remarkabfy produc-\\ntive, with large show} blossoms. The fruit which ripens\\nsoon after raspberries is often one and a half inches in\\nlength by one inch in diameter. The Dewberry should be\\nfound in every garden.\\nCurrants. This is a fruit found in almost every garden,\\nand of all, we might say, is the most sadly neglected.\\nHardy, easily cultivated, standing neglect well, but respond-\\ning liberally to generous treatment, and really no garden is\\ncomplete without its currant bushes. Its uses are many,\\nbut for jelly is quite unsurpassed, while for pies they are\\nalso excellent, and when successfully grown for market,\\neither green or ripe, are quite profitable.\\nThey should be set on deep, rich loam and given clean\\ncultivation. The soil cannot be made too rich. As gen-\\nerally found in the garden it is a mass of tangled brush\\nfrom which the worms have trimmed the leaves, conse-\\nquently the fruit is small, and few, and far between, where-\\nas if it was judiciously pruned, manured and mulched, the\\nfruit produced would be doubled in size and quantit} Be\\nliberal with manure and you will be liberally rewarded\\nwith nice plump rich fruit. In garden culture take good\\none or two-year-old plants and after having thoroughly\\nprepared the soil by pulverizing, set them 3 by 4 feet apart\\neach way and keep the soil clean and mellow by thorough\\ncultivation and the third year you will reap your reward.\\nCultivate shallow to prevent injuring the roots. Prune\\nout the old wood, so that each shoot will have plenty of\\nspace in which to grow and so the sun and air may reach\\nall parts of the bush so that the fruit will mature properly.\\nTo obtain the best results they should be heavily mulched\\nin the spring, and for this purpose there is nothing better\\nthan coal ashes. Straw may also be used. Det no more\\nthan five or six shoots grow in each hill. All others should\\nbe treated as weeds.\\nThe best way to propagate is by layering. For this pur-\\npose use new growth and lay the shoots down in autumn.\\nThese may be set out the next spring. Another good way", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 85\\nis to make cuttings from new growth; that is, one year old\\nwood. This may be done in early fall as soon as the leaves\\nfall from the bushes. Cut off the ends of the branches\\nabout ten inches long; pulverize the .soil to the depth of\\ntwelve inches; dig holes deep enough to set the cuttings in\\nso that the two top buds will be above ground, then pack\\nthe fine soil firmly around the base of the cutting and just\\nat the top of the cutting place the soil more loosely.\\nTreated in this way they will root before winter and to\\nprevent J. Frost from heaving them out they should be\\nheavily mulched with light manure. This should be care-\\nfully drawn away before growth commences in the spring.\\nOr, the cuttings may be made as described and kept in\\nmoist sand or buried away from frost and planted in early\\nspring. I prefer the latter way as it gives the plants a\\nstart before winter. They must be planted as early as pos-\\nsible. When planted in the fall the soil should be tramped\\nfirmly around them in the spring or many of them will die.\\nThe Black varieties have a flavor entirely distinct from\\nthe red or white varieties, and, so far as I know are entirely\\nfree from the ravages of the Currant worm.\\nGooseberry. Every well kept garden, be it large or small,\\nwill contain a generous supply of these, for who is there\\nwho does not enjoy Gooseberries in pies, tarts or jam, or\\nwhen served as fruit when the berries have ripened. This,\\nlike other small fruits, is too often sadly neglected, and\\nhence fail and are pronounced no good, when they are\\nreally of vety easy culture.\\nGooseberries require and delight in a good, rich, loamy\\nsoil, with a generous supply of manure each season. The}\\nare quite hardy. Regular pruning ever} season is essential\\nfor the production of fine fruit. All varieties, especially\\nEnglish varieties, require a partial shade and should be\\nplanted on the north side of a board or picket fence as they\\nare susceptible to the heat of the sun.\\nThey should also be heavily mulched as are blackberries.\\nMildew often attacks the Gooseberry, to prevent which the\\nbushes should be sprayed as soon as the leaves appear with\\npotassium sulphide (liver of sulphur), one ounce to four\\ngallons of water. This should be done several times during\\nthe summer. It is also claimed that cutting out the center\\nof the bushes so as to admit more light and air to penetrate\\nto the fruit will also prevent the berries from mildewing.\\nThey should be set in rows four feet apart and three feet\\nin the row, and do not allow more than six or eight stems\\nto grow in each hill. Cultivate thoroughly and keep free", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "86 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nfrom weeds, and they should be given a dressing of wood\\nashes annually. Never allow the worms to strip the leaves\\nfrom the bushes. I think the best time for planting is in the\\nspring as they then become well established before winter.\\nGooseberries as well as currants and cane fruits of all\\nkinds commence growth early in the spring, so that where\\nthe planting is to be done in the spring it should be done\\nas early as possible. Where fruits of any kind are set out\\nin the autumn they should have a mound of earth placed\\naround them so as to prevent the water standing at their\\nroots; this soil should be tramped firmly around them in\\nthe spring. Plant in cool, moist, but not wet soil, as no\\nfruit tree will succeed with wet feet.\\nGooseberries are propagated similar to currants, i. e. by\\nlaying down branches and covering them with soil. If this\\nis done in the spring they will be ready to set out in the\\nfall and vice versa. New varieties of fruits of all kinds are\\ngrown from seed saved from ripe specimens. It is seldom,\\nhowever, that varieties of special merit are obtained and\\nare therefore often quite valuable.\\nCoal ashes are a valuable mulch for Gooseberries as well\\nas currants. They keep down the weeds, retain moisture,\\nhelp to prevent mildew and if sifted on when the foliage is\\ndamp will assist in preventing the ravages of the worms.\\nCoal ashes and kitchen slops can be profitabl}* used on\\nsmall fruits.\\nGrapes {litis vinifera). There is scarcely a yard so\\nsmall, either in country or town, where room for a few\\ngrape vines cannot be found, as they may be admirably\\ntrained on the side of a building, on the fences, summer\\nhouses, etc. occupying but little room while they supply\\nan abundance of the most healthful fruit; or they may be\\nplanted between the rows of berry bushes where these are\\nof sufficient width. The history dates back to the remotest\\nperiod of which we have any account of the works of man\\nsince the deluge of Noah.\\nPlant in mellow soil which has been deeply plowed. Set\\nthe plants a little deeper than they stood in the nursery.\\nCorn or other crops may be planted between the rows the\\nfirst season. The Grape is among the most wonderful of\\nfruit-bearing plants for longevity, productiveness and the\\nexcellence of its fruit. They delight in a high and dry\\ngravelly clay of moderate fertility, with a porous subsoil.\\nSelect well known varieties of first class one or two-year-\\nold vines. With the soil plowed deeply, dig holes wide and\\ndeep enough to receive the roots without crowding. Mark", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 87\\nout the rows eight feet apart and about the same distance\\nbetween the vines for the short growing varieties, and for\\nrank growing varieties about twelve feet apart in the row.\\nAt the same time plant a large stake in the hole with the vine.\\nWhen setting out the vines cut back the plants to two or\\nthree eyes, and when growth commences in the spring rub\\noff all but the strongest one and as this grows tie to the\\nstake and pinch off all lateral shoots to one bud. The dis-\\ntance between the vines should vary with the soil; how-\\never, a rich soil will require wider planting. It is bad pol-\\nicy to plant too thickly as the fruit will not develop properly.\\nBefore planting, the vines should be properly pruned;\\nthe top should be cut back to two or three buds and the\\nroots shortened to about a foot, while the bottom of the\\nholes should be well loosened with the spade or other im-\\nplement. Some surface soil should be mixed with this dirt\\nbefore the vine is set. Keep the roots moist while plant-\\ning. The roots should be well spread in the hole and cov-\\nered with surface soil pressed firmly around them; then fill\\nthe hole with mellow soil. This also holds good when\\nplanting an} kind of plant.\\nNever use strong manure next the roots; if used, place\\nit on the surface. Compost is good to mix with the soil.\\nBone dust or ashes are the best of fertilizers where the soil\\nneeds enriching. As the future growth, health and pro-\\nductiveness of the Grape depend very much on its getting\\na good start in the world, good culture as for any other\\ncrop should be generously given. During summer keep the\\nvines well cultivated, allowing no weeds or grass to grow.\\nThe surface soil especially should be frequently stirred.\\nIn the fall cut the vines back to two or three buds and in\\nthe spring before growth commences rub off all but two\\nand tie the vines to the stakes. Then in the fall cut these\\ntwo canes back to three or four feet, according to the\\nstrength of the vines. Young vines will sometimes bear a\\nfew bunches the second year, but it is best not to let them\\nbear until the third season.\\nAt the beginning of the third year the trellis should be\\nset up. Posts are set up between two vines and to these\\nwires or slats are fastened. Wires are best as the wind has\\nless effect on them and the vines cling to them. These\\nwires are placed one above the other, the lowest one about\\ntwo feet from the ground. The canes are bent hori/.ontaly\\nand fastened to the lower wire and four or five buds allowed\\nto grow, and each bud will set two or three more bunches.\\nThe fourth season two of the canes on each arm are per-\\nmitted to grow, while the others are pruned to one bud,", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "88 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nand from these the canes for next year s fruiting are al-\\nlowed to grow.\\nThe fruiting canes must be cut back when they grow\\nthree leaves beyond the top clusters on the cane. It must\\nbe borne in mind that no fruit comes from old wood, but\\nonly from that of previous season s growth. The soil should\\nbe cultivated thoroughly in the early part of the season.\\nWhere pruning is done in the autumn the vines should\\nbe taken from the trellis and laid on the ground and if they\\ndo not stay down, some dirt should be thrown on the ends\\nof the canes to hold them. It is not always necessary to\\ndo this, but is a precaution against winter killing. In re-\\ngard to the time in which to trim there is difference of\\nopinion, but I prefer the month of February, as our most\\nsevere winter is over and the sap has not commenced to\\nflow to any great extent and will not before the wounds\\nhave healed so as to prevent bleeding.\\nIt has been well and truthfully said that small fruits in\\nthe country are like Heaven objects of universal desire\\nand general neglect. There are various modes of trim-\\nming the Grape in this and other countries; The short\\nspur system, The long cane system, The close cut\\nsystem, and The horizontal arm system. The latter I\\nprefer, as I believe it to be more in accordance with nature\\nand it has many advantages over the other modes, although\\neach have proven a success in various locations.\\nThe close cut system consists in cutting all the wood of\\nthe previous year s growth back to the main stalk, depend-\\ning solely on the latent buds for the next crop. The short\\nspur system consists in cutting the canes back to one bud\\nof the main vine. The long cane system consists in prun-\\ning out the two-year wood that bore fruit the year previous\\nand cutting the new canes back to the length of two or\\nthree feet as circumstances permit. This mode is in uni-\\nversal use. The horizontal arm system consists in a main\\nvine extending each way from the stalk on the lower wire\\nand the growth of the year previous cut back to two or three\\nbuds of the main arm or vine. Where the thinning process\\nis in vogue, which consists in cutting out the surplus shoots\\nbefore they blossom, the summer pruning is done by de-\\nstroying all surplus shoots that start during the summer.\\nWhen pruning always employ the same system as was\\nused the previous season. Use manure as a mulch and do\\nnot place it directly on the roots. Do not allow the vines\\nto be overgrown by weeds or you will get very little reward\\nfrom your vine. Soil and situation make a great deal of\\ndifference in flavor. Those grown on gravelly soil will be\\nthe richest and sweetest.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "t iu ttiMMiMuniMtrittUii*iiiiW^\\nKmmMWMwtmmwmwMmmwMWMMmwNmNWfPM\\nAlthough our space is quite limited we realise that a\\ntreatise on the subject we have chosen for our book would\\nnot be quite complete without a few words on the above\\nsubject. While we cannot treat the subject at any great\\nlength we will endeavor to give a few helps in the de-\\nstruction of these pests.\\nCabbage Flea {Haltica striolata). This is the first insect\\nof any importance that appears, and is the little black flea\\nthat attacks the cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, radish, etc.,\\nand in fact all plants belonging to the natural order Cruci-\\nfer z. Not only does the flea destroy the first leaves, but\\nthe larvae feed upon the roots of the plants.\\nSoot, ashes, lime (slacked), and dust scattered on the\\nleaves is an effectual remedy. This must be done while the\\nplants are wet and after every rain. Soap suds applied to\\nthe roots will destroy the larvae.\\nCabbage Worm. The cabbage worm,, the larvae of the\\ncommon white butterfly {Picris rapae), may be destroyed\\nin several ways. That of hand picking is effectual but\\ntedious and not to be desired.\\nKerosene emulsion, ashes, hellebore, saltpetre water,\\nbran and road dust. Pyrethrum powder dusted into the\\nheads is sure death to every worm. It should be mixed\\nwith five times its bulk of plaster. The application of liq-\\nuid insecticides will not prove very satisfactory on account\\nof the peculiar structure of the leaves which allows the\\nwater to roll off in drops and does not adhere to any part of\\nthem. Washing the heads out with cold water every day\\nor two while the sun is shining hotly will destroy the eggs.\\nThe vessel containing the water should be held above the\\nplants allowing the water to fall from a height, or it may", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "90 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nbe applied with a force pump. Poisonous substances are\\nunsafe and not to be recommended.\\nCut Worms (Agrostes, Leucania, Mamestra, Hadena, Ncp-\\nhclodes). Of this pest there are several species including\\nthe Army Worm (Leucam a iinipuncta). They do their\\nwork during the night and may be destroyed with paris-\\ngreen or a piece of sod may be inverted by each plant; the\\nworms will gather under these and they may then be caught\\nand killed.\\nStriped Cucumber Bug {Diabrotica vittata). This pest\\nwhich makes itself quite numerous may be kept in check\\nby the use of plaster, tobacco scattered close to the hill, by\\npoisons, or by cultivating ever} day or two. Another\\nmethod is to take a bottomless box twelve inches square\\nand six or eight inches deep and cover it with mosquito\\nnetting. One of these inverted over each hill until the\\nplants are in rough leaf will be a sure protection.\\nSquash Bug (Anasa tristis. This is the common stink\\nbug and will, if not destroyed, soon destroy the vines. They\\ncome in pairs and if the first are killed before the eggs are\\ndeposited there will be but little trouble, but if not destroyed\\nthey will raise large families and become quite numerous.\\nThey may be destroyed by the application of kerosene emul-\\nsion. The eggs should be gathered at least bi-weekly and\\nall rubbish burned early in the fall.\\nSquash Borer (Melittia ceto). This pest destroys the vines\\nby boring into the roots and destroying the pith. Date\\nplanting of main crop; destroying the vines attacked as\\nsoon as crop is harvested; and destroying moths.\\nAsparagus Beetle (Crioceris aspaiagi). Prompt actions,\\ndusting with lime, arsenical mixtures of paris green and\\nlondon purple. See also asparagus culture.\\nOnion Maggot. The larvae of the onion fly {Anthomyia\\nreparian). The eggs are laid in May or June, on the leaves\\nnear the ground. The maggots burrow into the bulb, caus-\\ning them to decay. Dig and burn the affected onions, but\\nfor the best mode of destruction see onion culture.\\nCelery Fly {Anthomyia ceparum). Dusting the plants\\nwith soot or lime will prevent the fly from laying its eggs;\\nbut the most effectual way is to crush the leaves when the\\nlarvae (grub) is discovered.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 91\\nMealy Bug. Fumigating with tobacco will effectually de-\\nstroy them.\\nRed Spider, Frequent syringing will keep down the at-\\ntacks of this pest.\\nGreen Lice {Aphides Use kerosene emulsion.\\nSnails. Soot, salt or lime are a sure remedy when scat-\\ntered on the ground.\\nAnts. Destroy their nests and sprinkle sulphur where\\nthey frequent.\\nWire Worms (Drasterius elegans, Melanotics fissi lis, etc).\\nThere are about a dozen species of this pest. Place a small\\npotato under the surface of the soil; this makes an excel-\\nlent trap. This may be poisoned. Fall plowing and rota-\\ntion of crops is also recommended.\\nCurrant Worm {Nemahtsventricosus~). The currant worm\\nshould be destroyed promptly with insect powder or helle-\\nbore, the latter one ounce to two gallons of water. Or\\nbetter still, throw wood ashes through the bushes while\\nwet. There are many methods recommended but the above\\nis quite effectual, is easiby and cheaply applied and is per-\\nfectly harmless. Apply after ever} T rain and as soon as the\\nworms appear.\\nPotato Beetle {Doryphora io-lineata). This is the common\\nColorado potato bug and has evidently come to stay. Paris\\ngreen applied in the form of a spray or dusted on the foliage\\nis the most easily applied and cheap remedy, but care must\\nbe exercised in its use wherever used that none may get\\nwhere animals, etc., are liable to get at it.\\nBean Weevil (Brachus oblectus) and Pea Weevil {Bnicluis\\npisonun). Place the seed to be treated in air tight boxes,\\nplace some bisulphide of carbon (very inflamable) in open\\nvessels and place on top of seed. Cover to exclude the air\\nand let it remain for twenty-four hours.\\nStrawberry Weevil (A)ithononcus signatus). Spraying\\nwith paris green.\\nStrawberry Crownborer Tyloderma fragariac). The eggs\\nare laid on the crowns in June or July and when hatched\\nthe grub burrows into and destroys the plants. The worm", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "92 THE PARMER S GARDEN\\nis white, about one-fifth of an inch long, and has a yellow\\nhead. Burn all infected plants, or plow up the bed.\\nGrapeberry Moth Eudemis botrana). The larvae eats the\\npulp and part of the seed; is quite destructive. No good\\nremedy known.\\nIn fighting Injurious Insects it is always best to avoid\\nthe use of poisonous substances wherever possible to do so,\\nespecially if there are children about, for they are liable to\\nget at the berries on which the poisons have been used, and,\\ntoo, it is not safe to use berries, cabbage, cauliflower, mel-\\nons, etc. that have been poisoned as some of the substance\\nis liable to remain on them and cause serious results.\\nKerosene Emuesion (Insecticide), How to make. Take\\none-quarter pound of hard soap, cut up and dissolve in two\\nquarts of boiling rain water; while hot stir in one pint of\\nkerosene. Stir briskly until no oil rises on the top.. Add\\nwater to make two gallons. While not in the least bit dan-\\ngerous, this is sure death to all kinds of plant lice. Apply\\nin the form of a spray or with the sprinkler.\\nBordeaux Mixture [Fungicide), To make. Dissolve six\\npounds of sulphate of copper (copperas, green vitrol) in a\\ntub or earthen vessel (metal vessels should not be used),\\nand in another vessel slake four pounds of fresh lime, add-\\ning water sufficient to reduce it to the consistency of thick\\nlime wash. This should be slowly poured into the copper\\nsolution straining it through a coarse cloth. An old ferti-\\nlizer (gunny) sack is excellent for this purpose. To this\\nmixture add sufficient water to make about fifty gallons.\\nWhen desired a combined insecticide and fungicide may\\nbe made by adding one-quarter pound of paris green to the\\nmixture. Apply in the form of a spray. It is quite poi-\\nsonous. In using care must be exercised that none of the\\nmixture falls on the grass where stock or poultry can get it.\\nIt is also well to remember that all liquid poisons should be\\nkept well stirred while applying them, so that the poison-\\nous substances will be thoroughly mixed and evenly dis-\\ntributed. Some spray pumps do this automatically and\\nare preferable.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "How to Make and Manage the Lawn.\\nIn preparing the Lawn see that the work is well and prop-\\nerly executed, and if needed have the soil thoroughly drained,\\nas wet soil will not do for this purpose. Where the work\\nis properly done it will last for years, while if done in a\\nslip-shod fashion it will be a continual source of annoyance.\\nWhere there are any old stumps or rocks in the plot they\\nshould be dug out and the holes filled with soil. This\\nshould be packed firmly to prevent its settling and making\\nholes. The surface should be perfectly even and smooth\\nfor various reasons. All hollows should have the sod taken\\nfrom them and the holes filled with loam from elsewhere.\\nAlso remove all bumps from the surface.\\nNow go over the Lawn and destroy every weed you may\\nfind in it. If you cannot pull them, pry them up with\\na digging fork, then pull them out and press the soil firmly.\\nThe soil should be harrowed and raked to reduce it to as\\nfine a condition as possible as well as to level it, as nothing\\ndetracts from the appearance of a Lawn more than an un-\\neven surface. Now your ground is read}- and next that\\nconcerns you is the seed.\\nJust as earl} as the weather is open and the soil free\\nfrom frost and dry enough to work the seed should be sown.\\nIf one harrowing isn t enough harrow it again. Now take\\nwooden rakes and rake off all the rubbish that may be there\\nand remove it as you go along. After this if your soil is\\nas good and rich as it should be on the surface it will now\\nbe ready for the seed; but if the soil is poor, recuperate it\\nby giving a good dressing of compost composed of one-\\nthird or one-half of loam and the other half or two-thirds of\\nwell rotted manure. Spread this on to a thickness of one\\nor two inches. This should be done immediatelv. Rone", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "94 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nmeal is also an excellent fertilizer for the Lawn as it is last-\\ning in its effects and is also free from noxious seeds. About\\n600 to 1000 pounds should be used per acre. The time to\\nsow the seed will vary with circumstances, but late in March\\nor early in April is a good time. It will not be necessary to\\nroll the soil, as the snow 7 s and rains will have compacted it\\nsufficiently.\\nThe top dressing won t hurt the grass there may be at\\nthis time, but on the contrary will be a benefit to it, causing\\nit to come up with renewed vigor, but it will not be even or\\nthick enough and will require fresh seed sown all over it to\\nget it equally green and in even sod. When sowing time\\ncomes break the crust that may have formed on the soil.\\nFor this a brush harrow is excellent; after this rake off the\\nlitter and cart it away. Then sow the seed broadcast and\\nrake lightly and roll the soil firmly so as to cover the\\nseed about a quarter of an inch deep. The seed should be\\nof the best obtainable and should be a mixture of the finest\\nvarieties, embracing such as are hardy and of neat growth\\nand best adapted to produce a permanent and fine turf\\nthroughout the season.\\nAs different varieties of grasses mature at different sea-\\nsons, some early, others late, a mixture is absolutely neces-\\nsary to produce a continual bright green. The following\\nmixture is a good one: Two bushels Kentucky blue grass,\\ntwo bushels red top, one bushel rye grass, six pounds of\\nwhite clover; mix and sow at the rate of two to four bush-\\nels, according to circumstances. The rye grass is for quick\\ngrowth and must not be sown thick enough to injure the\\ntwo finer grasses. Though disliked by some, clover is ex-\\ncellent on clayey or stiff soil. The seed should be mixed\\nwith finely sifted loam or should be sown on a quiet day.\\nKeep the seed well mixed or the clover will fall to the bot-\\ntom of the heap. This may be prevented by mixing the\\nseed with loam or sand as above.\\nAs stated above no one kind of grass will answer as it\\nwill not keep beautifully green all through the season but\\na mixture of several is necessary, as some are more luxuri-\\nant in early spring, others in summer and again others in\\nautumn, and a proper combination of these various varie-\\nties is necessary to make a neat, velvety lawn. Old Lawns\\nwill be greatly benefitted if they are carefully raked so as\\nto remove the leaves and dead grass that may be on them\\nand then sprinkled w T ith the above mixture which will re-\\nnew the thin spots and places that have been killed by the\\nwinter or other causes. Then give it a thorough rolling\\nwith a heavy roller. When building a new lawn and after", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 95\\nit is graded the first thing is to give the entire surface a\\nthick dressing of black loam. This should be done in all\\ncases wherever possible. The Lawn must have a good\\nfoundation to be beautiful as it should be. Where the\\nground is sloping it will require a heavier dressing than\\nwhere it is level, as heavy rains may wash the top soil\\nawa} especially before the grass has become thoroughly\\nestablished.\\nThe surface should be level and smooth as possible. One-\\nhalf the seed should be sown in one direction and the other\\nat right angles. Water should be used freely on Lawns as\\nthis gives that healthy appearance so greatly admired. No\\nmatter how much seed of a certain variety you may sow on\\na certain space it will support only so many plants, while if\\nanother variety is sown in connection with it a largely in-\\ncreased number of plants will be obtained as they thrive on\\ndifferent elements of the soil.\\nLawns must be kept rich if you desire a good, fresh, green,\\nvelvety crop of grass. As Lawn grass is a voracious feeder it\\nwill not thrive and hold its color unless it receives sufficient\\nnourishment. The reason there are so many rusty, ding3~\\nLawns is because this point is too little appreciated. A well\\nfed Lawn is always a velvety one and is sure to be admired.\\nMowing repeatedly year after r ear and raking off the\\nleaves that fall from the trees, which neatness makes neces-\\nsary, and which removes a valuable top dressing annually,\\nrequires artificial top dressing yearly of short, thoroughly\\ndecayed manure, or a dressing of commercial fertilizer in\\nthe amounts given. Stable manure is in some respects un-\\npleasant to handle, ill looking and quite odorous, and if\\nused should be applied late in the autumn. Where done\\nearlier it defaces the Lawn at a season when it proves of-\\nfensive. Fine dry manure which is easily pulverized is\\nbest as it spreads neatly and evenly over the surface. This\\nis quite essential or one spot will be over-nourished while\\nanother will be starved. But if this cannot be had coarse\\nmanure may be used if spread evenh r as possible, while if\\nthere happens to be a sharp November freeze followed by a\\nthaw it will loosen the lumps and cause them to pulverize\\nquite easily. This may be done with a smoothing harrow\\nwhich will also spread them over the surface in a most com-\\nmendable manner.\\nAlways prepare your soil thoroughly and sow the seed\\nthickly in order to obtain a good growth at once, and press\\nthe soil firmly. Second only to that necessity good seed\\nis time of sowing, quantity to use (be sure to use plenty),\\npreparation, etc. It was at one time considered that the", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nclippings should be left on the lawn to act as a mulch, thus\\nreturning to the soil what it had extracted during growth.\\nThis, however, soon proved a mistake, as the dried grass,\\nbesides looking unsightly, prevented roots from tillering\\nout and instead of its improving would soon ruin any Lawn\\nif left on. The best way is as soon as the mowing is done\\nto carefully rake up all the clippings and depend upon ma-\\nnuring in the. winter to keep up the growth sufficiently to\\nmake a thick, velvety growth of verdure.\\nAs before stated there is nothing more essential in the\\nadornment of the home than a neat, close-cut, well-kept\\nlawn with a velvety turf dotted here and there with beds\\nof flowers, for without it the palace would look dingy and\\nthe finest flowering plants and bedding scenes are insignifi-\\ncant, while with it the most lowly cottage makes us feel\\nthat there is really no place like home.\\nWhere they are to be had, rocks or various shaped stones\\nmay be utilized to make borders for the flower beds, etc.\\nas the T may be placed in various forms and when white-\\nwashed or painted make a pleasing contrast with the foliage\\nof the plants. They may also be built up to a height of a\\nfoot or more in any desired form and the inside filled with\\nsoil in which plants may be planted with pleasing effect.\\nShells of various shapes may also be used for borders or the\\nedges of walks, etc.\\nEver} Lawn should have nicely graveled walks laid out\\nand the edges kept nicely trimmed. Where there are curves\\nin these walks let them be graceful and not too abrupt or\\nthey will detract from the general appearance of the Lawn.\\nTo make the surroundings still more attractive the Lawn\\nshould be appropriately planted with trees and shrubs. On\\nthe smaller yards the largest growing trees are not desirable,\\nor, if planted, it should be with a view of removing them\\nwhen they become too large, and thus injure by their shade\\nthe other occupants of the soil.\\nAs a guide it may be well to say that in the arrangement\\nof the trees and shrubs they should be set irregularly\\nalong the sides of the lawn and bordering to some extent the\\nfront. Only such varieties should be used as are conspic-\\nuous for their beauty of form or foliage, or both, and the\\nflowering shrubs should be selected with reference to their\\ncontinual blooming from spring to autumn.\\nIn front of the main rooms of the dwelling and next the\\ngraveled walks can be beds of fancy foliaged plants such as\\nbegonias, coleus, dracenas, etc. and bright blooming flowers\\nsuch as geraniums, petunias, cockscombs and phlox, while\\nsomewhat more expensive are the carpet beds or mosaic bed set", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 97\\nwith plants of high colored foliage. These beds, if well\\ncared for, will make a pleasing sight throughout the sum-\\nmer until destroyed by frost. These are popular because\\nthey produce the effect desired looking their very prettiest\\nduring the fine season of the year. They cannot be de-\\npended on for blooming, for they are not for that purpose;\\nand a provision for a supply of flowers should be made for\\nthat purpose elsewhere.\\nThe beds should be of various forms; stars, crescents, cir-\\ncles, ovals, Maltese crosses, etc. These may be considered\\nas examples from which one can deviate in numberless ways\\nin the forms and sizes of beds and the plants used in filling\\nthem, but always subserving the laws of good taste and\\ncolor blending, and if you have an eye for the beautiful you\\nwill be well paid for all trouble in endeavoring to make\\nhome beautiful b} 7 its surrounding attractions.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "Notes on Their Culture.\\nFlowers are God s Jewels for earth s adornment.\\nNothing adds more to the appearance of the home than\\nits surroundings. After giving instructions on the build-\\ning of the lawn, the next point which comes under our con-\\nsideration is the cultivation of Flora s treasures -Flowers.\\nThe pleasure to be derived from the cultivation of Flowers\\nis known only in its fullest extent to those who have\\nwatched every day s mysterious developments from the sow T\\niug of the tiny seed to the grand display of the fully devel-\\noped plant.\\nIn spite of good seed and careful management, there must\\ncome now and again unaccountable failure and disappoint-\\nment. Experienced growers sometimes fail, and try again\\nwith the same seed and succeed, so do not be discouraged\\nby an occasional failure, for you will have to contend with\\nunfavorable weather, insects, and numerous adverse cir-\\ncumstances; but these are but the background of the pic-,\\nture the little trials which make the eventual success sq\\nsweet.\\nIn raising Flowers from seed, not only care but knowl-\\nedge is required knowledge of the requirements of the dif-\\nferent classes of Flowers annuals, biennials, perrenials\\nand the tender greenhouse Flowers. A careful perusal of the\\nfollowing notes, though brief, will be of advantage to the\\ninexperienced.\\nFlower seeds may be sown in the open ground as soon as\\nthe soil becomes dry and easily crumbled after spring frosts\\nhave disappeared. They may be sown in the borders\\nwhere they are intended to bloom, or in seed pans or beds\\nand transplanted to their flowering beds. The latter is the\\nbest plan, especially with very small seeds such as pansy,\\nas it enables the plants to become established earlier, and\\nalso because during the period of early growth the soil oc-\\ncupied is not attractive. There must be discretion exer-\\ncised as to the depth to w T hich seeds should be covered", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 99\\nsmall delicate seeds merely on the surface, some barely\\npressed into the soil, and others fully one-quarter inch deep\\nthe depth in every instance being regulated by the size of\\nthe seed itself. As the sprouts of small seeds must neces-\\nsarily be small, if sown as deep as large seed they will be\\nunusually late in starting or more likely will perish in the\\nground after germinating, for want of strength to break\\nthrough the surface.\\nSeedling plants can be nearly as well grown in the window\\nof a sitting room or parlor provided the temperature is\\nright as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not require a direct\\nlight while germinating. The best things to sow seeds in\\nare pans or boxes (tobacco boxes are nice, as the smell of\\nthe tobacco drives away insects to a large degree) two or\\nthree inches deep with crack in the bottoms through which\\nthe water can drain quickly, which is quite essential. The\\nsoil should be of equal parts of good garden loam and sand\\nthoroughly mixed and passed through a sieve. Fill the\\nboxes to within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil\\nas firm and level as possible. Now sow the seed, scatter-\\ning it evenly over the surface. With a common sieve dust\\njust as much soil over the seed as will cover it. Then\\ndampen the soil carefully with a spray or otherwise, being\\ncareful not to wash the soil.\\nIf the box is kept at a temperature of about 6o\u00c2\u00b0, giving\\nit a shower of spray whenever the soil appears dry, very\\nfew seeds will fail to germinate. The average period of\\n-j germination of seeds is from ten to fourteen days, but some\\nseeds of a hard body often lie dormant for weeks or even\\ni months. The Acacia, Clematis, Polyanthus and others are\\nexamples of this.\\nGermination of such seeds will be greatly accelerated by\\nplacing them in a cup of lukewarm water allowing them\\nto soak for a few hours before sowing. And in many\\nFlowers the period of blooming will be extended by picking\\noff the blooms when past their best, thus preventing the\\nstrength of the plants being exhausted in the ripening of\\nthe seed pods.\\nAs soon as the seedlings appear they will require careful\\nattention, and should have as much sun and air as possible\\non pleasant days. Prick out of the seed pans or boxes into\\nother pans or boxes, placing them about one inch apart,\\nand shading from the sun for a few days until they are well\\nestablished. When large enough they may be planted sep-\\narately in pots, and kept till the proper season arrives for\\nplanting in the open that is when there is no danger of\\nfrost.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "100 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nSome varieties of hardy Flowers such as Sweet Peas,\\nConvolvulus, etc., are best sown where they are to grow,\\nbut none but the most hardy varieties of Flowers should be\\nsown in the open ground until both soil and air have be-\\ncome warm about corn planting time. It is a good plan\\nto sow only a part of your seed at first, and then in a week\\nor so the remainder. The thinning out of plants in their\\nearlier stages is, quite important.\\nIt is always best to sow thicker than the plants are re-\\nquired for various reasons, but if the young plants are al-\\nlowed to remain in a crowded condition they soon spoil\\neach other; they must therefore be thinned out, but with\\ncaution. At first remove only enough to give the remain-\\nder clear space in which to grow, and more when they are\\ntwo or three inches high. _ The number of plants left at\\nthe final thinning must depend on the size and habits of the\\nplants themselves if large and spreading single plants are\\nto be preferred, if not of a spreading nature two or three\\nmay remain, at equal distances apart. In all cases begin\\nthinning in time, before the) become crowded.\\nPlants may be transplanted whenever large enough to\\nhandle. L,ift them carefully with the aid of a trowel, re-\\ntaining as much of the soil as will adhere to the roots.\\nMoisten the soil in the boxes before disturbing the plants.\\nTransplanting should be done in wet or cloudy weather. If\\nthe soil is dry a good soaking with water before and after\\ntransplanting is advisable. Shade from the sun for a few\\nda3^s.\\nThe importance of uniform attention to watering will\\nsoon be learned by observation and experience, but the in-\\nexperienced cultivator may be reminded that to allow the\\nyoung germs to get parched, as well as too frequent and\\nirregular watering, often leads to the loss of the whole.\\nPlants in pots should only be watered when the surface of\\nthe soil becomes dry not daily or at stated times, as is too\\noften practiced, but when necessity requires it.\\nLiquid manure is quite beneficial to plants whose roots\\nare confined in pots, but should never be given to very\\nyoung plants, or oftener than twice a week and always in\\nsmall quantities. It is advisable to smoke pot plants every\\nfew days with tobacco smoke to prevent the ravages of the\\ngreen fly. The cause will usualty be found in the plant be-\\ning root bound, to avoid which re-pot frequently during\\nthe growing season. Heat and moisture are quite essen-\\ntial to the germination of all seeds but as these cannot be\\nregulated in the open ground, seeds of tender plants require\\nthe assistance of the hotbed or cold frame.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 101\\nIn making a selection of Flowers, everyone should have\\nthe beautiful annuals and perennials. A small collection\\nwill furnish an abundance for the entire summer the As-\\nter, Antirrhinum, Balsam, Dianthus, Delphinium, Pansy,\\nPetunia, Phlox, Portulaca, Stocks, Verbena and Double\\nZinnia, should have a place in your collection. For a low\\nedge there is nothing better than the Sweet Pea and Nas-\\nturtium; while for fragrance there must be Mignonette,\\nSweet Alyssum, Pinks and Carnations. For masses of col-\\nor and ribbon border there is a wide field to choose from\\nthe Phlox in its many distinct colors is one of the best for\\nthis purpose. Candytuft is neat and makes nice button\\nhole bouquets, while a few Everlastings and Ornamental\\nGrasses will come in nicely for indoor decoration in the\\nwinter. Then the beautiful Gladioli among the tall sum-\\nmer Flowers; the Dahlia for autumn, while the Ldy is un-\\nsurpassed in its graceful beauty.\\nFlowers raised from seed are known as Annuals, Bien-\\nnials and Perennials.\\nAnnual^. For the best summer display the garden is de-\\npendent on this class which is grown from seed sown ever}-\\nspring, as they arrive at maturity, bloom, produce seeds\\nand die in one season. They are sub-divided in three class-\\nes, hard} half-hardy and tender. Hard} Annuals are\\nthose which require no artificial heat at any period of their\\ngrowth. Every stage of their growth from the germina-\\ntion to the ripening of the seed may be passed in the open\\nground. They are the most easily cultivated of all plants.\\nAs a rule Annuals may be sown in the open ground about\\ncorn-planting time or when the weather has become settled.\\nFor a succession sow at intervals from March to Septem-\\nber. Seeds of the hardier Annuals may be sown where\\nthey are to flower; but as a rule it is preferable to trans-\\nplant, as the plants are generally stronger and stand\\ndrought better. During very warm, dry weather and when\\nthe seedlings are first set out they should be watered fre-\\nquently. If the weeds are kept in check as they should be\\nand the soil frequently stirred the plants will receive the full\\nbenefit of the rains and dews, which they will not if the\\nsoil is allowed to become hard and weedy. Half-hardy\\nAnnuals are those species that require artificial heat in the\\nearlier stages of their growth but bloom and ripen their\\nseeds in the open air. They should be sown in pans or\\nboxes in a gentle heat in February or March. By the end\\nof March or early in April they will be ready for trans-\\nplanting to their beds in the open, but previous to this they\\nshould be hardened by gradual exposure night and clay.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "102 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nBiennials as a rule do not flower until the second season\\nfrom the sowing of the seed, and are only at their best one\\nseason, and for a limited time only. The} are not there-\\nfore adapted for a bed on the lawn, which should make a\\nshow of blooms all through the season.\\nPerennials. This class is composed of herbaceous\\nplants, which die down during winter, but spring up at the\\nreturn of spring and produce new stems annually. Many\\nof the species improve by age, forming large clumps or\\nbushes; b) being divided, the stock is increased and the\\nplant invigorated. Some of this class of plants like Antir-\\nrhinum, Dianthus, Pansy, Stock, etc. flower thefirst season,\\nbut true Perennials, like Biennials, do not flower until the\\nsecond season.\\nHardy Biennials and Perennials require the same treat-\\nment as hardy Annuals. If seeds of these three classes are\\nsown in boxes in March or April and so sheltered in a good\\ncold frame they will make strong plants by spring and will\\nbloom earlier, in the case of Biennials and Perennials a sea-\\nson earlier. Or they may be planted in the open soil in\\nMarch and on the approach of winter mulched with leaves,\\nevergreen boughs, straw or litter as a protection against\\nfrost. In spring this covering must be carefully removed\\nand the soil around them loosened, and when large enough\\ntransplant them to where the} r are to remain.\\nTender Annuals, Biennials and Perennials for window\\nand greenhouse culture. The best method to obtain an\\nearly bloom and to insure strength and vigor to the plants\\nis to sow the seeds in pans early, placing them in a warm\\npartially shaded window or warm greenhouse, or plunging\\nin a moderate hotbed, carefully protecting them from the\\ncold, shading from the midday sun and watering with a\\nfine spray. The seeds require extra care in sowing, as they\\nare very small and delicate. The pans or boxes must be\\nthoroughly drained and should have a layer of stones or\\nbroken pots in the bottom. The seed should be sown in a\\nvery light rich compost, composed of two-thirds rich loam,\\none-third sand and thoroughly decayed cow manure, thor-\\noughly mixed together. Make the surface smooth by press-\\ning it with a board, and sprinkle a little sand over it; water\\nwith a fine spray. After the pans have drained, the seed\\nshould be evenly and carefully sown. Cover them very lit-\\ntle, if at all. After sowing place the pans in a close frame,\\nkept shaded as exposure for only a short time to the rays of\\nthe sun is enough to scorch the extremely delicate leaves\\nand tiny roots of the plants. Water frequently, particu-\\nlarly if the house or frame is very warm.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 103\\nDirectly the plants are large enough to handle 2 or 3\\ninches high they must be transplanted into other pans\\nprepared as for seed sowing, and allowed to grow until the} 7\\ntouch each other; then shift into small pots and place in the\\ncold frame. When the roots fill these pots, shift again in\\nlarger pots. They will not thrive if replaced in frame or\\nplaced on shelves in greenhouse near the glass. Re-pot\\nas required. If troubled with the green fly fumigate with\\ntobacco. The varieties belonging to this class are the Ab-\\nutilon, Begonias, Chrysanthemums, Coleus, Cyclamen, Ferns,\\nGloxinias, etc. They may be planted in the lawn when\\nthey have attained sufficient size; this however should not\\nbe done before the end of May.\\nLatin Terms.\\nThe meaning of some of the most frequently used Latin\\nterms in the names of Flowers: Album or alba, white, ar-\\ngenta, silver; atropurpurea, dark purple; aurea, yellow; bi-\\ncolor, two colored; tri-color, of three colors; striata, striped;\\ncandidissima, pure white; coccinea, scarlet; coerulea, blue;\\nflammula, flame color; lutea, yellozv; marmorata, marbled;\\nmulticolor, of many color s; punctata, spotted; purpurea, pur-\\nple; roseum, rose or red; rubra, dark red; sanguineous, blood\\nred; compacta, compact; densiflorus, close dowered; elegans,\\ngraceful; fragrans, sweet scented; flore pleno, double flowered;\\nsemi pleno, half double; grandiflora, large flowered; major,\\ntall; minor, small, dwarf; maximum, tallest; monstrosum,\\nmonstrous; nanus, dwarf; odorata, sweet scented; pyramida-\\nlis, pyrmidal shaped; robusta, strong.\\nAbbreviations: Ha, hardy annual; hha, half-hard} 7 an-\\nnual; ta, tender annual; hb, hardy biennial; hhb, half-hardy\\nbiennial; hp, hardy perennial; hhp, half-hardy perennial;\\ngp, greenhouse perennial; gc, greenhouse climber; gs,\\ngreenhouse shrubs.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "104 THE FARMER S GARDEN\\nCalendar of Garden Operations for the Year.\\nIn a country so vast and varied as is ours, where the set-\\nting of the sun in the east is the rising of the sun in the\\nwest, and the summer of the south is the winter of the\\nnorth, and the influences of soil and climate so widely dif-\\nfer, it is impossible to give a calendar of operations to suit\\nall sections at the same time of the year. From this reason\\nthe tiller of the soil must be guided by his own location,\\nsoil and climatic influences.\\nJanuary. This is one of the winter months of this sec-\\ntion, when there is little or nothing to be done with the\\nsoil. In favorable weather prepare hotbeds and cold frames\\nfor the future use of cabbage, egg plants and other plants\\nthat are to be grown for transplanting, Dress asparagus\\nbeds, trim fruit and shade trees and spread thoroughl} 7 de-\\ncayed manure on lawns; mix with it some lawn grass seed.\\nSee that all unoccupied land has been thoroughly plowed\\nand left in ridges to derive as much bene^t as possible from\\nthe action of the frost, which tends to lighten and sweeten\\nthe soil. Burn rubbish and scatter the ashes over the roots\\nof fruit trees. See that celery in trenches and* vegetables\\nin pits are thoroughly protected. Attend to plants in\\nframes and protect from insect pests. Force hyacinths and\\nall bulb flower roots. Along the Gulf plant Irish potatoes,\\npeas, lettuce, radishes, etc.\\nFebruary. Get ready for early planting. In milder sec-\\ntions, if the weather permits, transplant trees, berry bush-\\nes, rose bushes and horseradish. Get in manure; let it be\\nwell incorporated before sowing; fresh manure applied di-\\nrectly to your crop may ruin it. If any pruning of small\\nfruits has been neglected see to it now. Towards end of\\nmonth sow tomatoes, peppers, cauliflowers, egg plants, etc.\\nSow perennials for early blooming. Mulch trees, bushes\\nand vines. Dress lawns. Plant the following for early\\nuse if the climate and weather are favorable: Beans, beets,\\ncarrots, parsnips, spinach, radishes, lettuce, potatoes and\\nother hardy varieties. Mulch rhubarb and asparagus.\\nTurn all soil not turned previously. Transplant a few\\nhardy plants to be nursed for extra early use.\\nMarch. Prepare the soil for seeding when in proper con-\\ndition. Replant where seeds have failed to grow. Sow\\nseeds as in February. Thin plants where needed. Salt as-\\nparagus beds. Plant sweet corn. Pull the weeds. In\\nnorthern states start your hotbeds and trim and mulch.\\nHorseradish may be set in any spare corner. Spread\\nmanure everywhere.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 105\\nApril. A busy month as far north as Ohio in the family\\ngarden, but don t plant until soil and weather are favorable.\\nHardy varieties may be sown in favored .spots. Plant as\\nin last month with the addition of more tender plants at the\\nend of the month. Replant where seeds have failed. Stir\\nthe soil around plants and kill weeds. Farther north trim\\nshrubs of all kinds and care for lawns. Use the lawn mow-\\ner and scatter seeds on bare spots. Keep all soil occupied.\\nMay. High culture. All seeds may be sown this month\\nas far north as Ohio. Stir the soil frequently around\\nplants, but don t disturb the roots. Brush early peas and\\nsow later ones. Thin plants in beds and transplant toma-\\ntoes, etc., as soon as large enough to handle. Prepare\\nground for celery 7 Sow cabbage, cauliflowers, etc., for\\nlate use. Fight weeds and insects. Sow flower seeds.\\nPlant lima beans.\\nJune. Everything is doing nicely and in full growth.\\nThe hoe should have daily exercise. Transplant celery,\\ntomatoes, sweet po ftoes, late cabbage, kill weeds, and pre-\\npare soil for turnips. Use ground that has matured earl} 7\\ncrops. Keep the soil mellow to retain moisture and destroy\\nweeds. Hill potatoes and water transplanted plants daily\\nin the evening. Clear ground for succession and plant\\nsecond crop. Sow perennials and biennials now. Dress\\nasparagus beds with salt. Replant corn.\\nJuly. To induce quick growth cultivate often and give\\nliquid manure. Where the ground is clear dress with ma-\\nnure, spade deeply 7 and plant Brussels sprouts, kale, broc-\\ncoli, cabbage, etc. Destroy weeds before the seeds mature.\\nSow more turnips and snap beans for succession. Kill in-\\nsects. Nip the tips from runner beans. Trim tomato\\nplants and tie a few to stakes if you want ripe fruit early\\nand lucious. Look for bugs on vine crops. Mulch straw-\\nberry 7 beds with old manure after rains.\\nAugust. Plants set out last month should now be strong.\\nSouthern gardens should be planted for a second crop of\\nvegetables such as beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, potatoes and\\ntomatoes. Cut out old brush from berry 7 bushes to encourage\\nnew growth. Destroy weeds on vacant ground. Straw-\\nberries set out this month will bear next season. Cut out\\nwild grass and weeds from the lawn. Early cabbage sown\\nnow will keep for winter. Earth up celery. Dig potatoes\\nwhen ripe. Hardy flowers may now be sown. Early-\\nbeans may give a crop of snaps if sown early in the month.\\nPot calceolarias.\\nSeptember. Turnips, mustard and parsley may now be\\nsown. Celery fully srrowu should be well banked and wa-", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "106 THE PARMER S GARDEN\\ntered and the tops protected from the sun. Gather ma-\\ntured crops. In the south sow peas, onions and radishes\\nfor winter use. Set out berry bushes and trees and mulch\\nto prevent the frost from heaving them out. Look out for\\nfrost. Pot bulbs for early bloom.\\nOctober. Pull the weeds in turnip beds; if green throw\\nthem on the compost heap, if ripe burn them. Sow seed on\\nthe lawn. Look after you; \u00e2\u0080\u00a2:..mpost heaps and don t let\\nthe rains injure them. k- -hem as much as possible\\nand turn over during Mulch berry bushes\\nwith manure, and ccv -i: ny beds between the\\nrows with leaves or litt Trlx-5 bum ..--d shade trees. Se-\\nlect seeds and store ij^reftsUy. al clearance of\\nremains of gathered ^ps a;;-. t x;U;; ud put them\\nin the compost heap- ey v Set out\\ntrees and mulch them. si! yaw^i. i-m^i Tomato\\nvines may be pulled and hu 1 a vv r^ cc: \\\\.o mature\\nthe green specimens. Plant uyacin; i- -;;i i:;sus,\\netc., for spring flowering. Prepi t fo;\\nNovember. A continuation of tlu nQ ii; .ri :l vvork oi \\\\M:t\\nmonth. Plow or spade your .garden an scali?.;; rnst KrefcV:\\nery where and leave to the actions of u frost, t rv.ne\\ntrees and vines and burn the brush to destic-} :.v-,. :;v:\\nTransplant fruit trees of all kinds and mulch. Dn yea?\\nlawn with fine manure. Gather late crops and or- tis\\nwinter. Put your frames away for winter. Give c. -ty ho;\\ntrenches extra protection. Mulch strawberry beds to pre-\\nvent heaving. Lay cuttings to increase your supply of\\nsmall fruit plants.\\nDecember. In the southern states sow radishes, onions,\\npeas and potatoes. Prepare hotbeds and sow cab-\\nbage, tomatoes, etc., for early planting. Prune trees,\\nvines, rosebushes and shrubs. Cover lawns with manure\\nand re-seed where needed. Plow every part of the garden\\nthat has not been so treated and cover with manure. Fork\\nover your compost heaps to promote decay, keeping them\\nflat on top. Cover with boards to protect from storms and\\nsubsequent loss. Procure leaf mold and store for future\\nuse. vSee that 3 T our garden is well drained before planting\\ntime. Burn rubbish and scatter ashes over roots of trees.\\nRepetition in these hints is for different latitudes.\\nWishing you a prosperous New Year.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "AND ITS MANAGEMENT 107\\nConclusion.\\nAnd now, kind reader, having borne me company through\\nthese pages our task is accomplished; we have come to the\\nend of our little book, and must here part company. It is\\nmy hope you have received some benefit from the hints I\\nhave given, for my endeavo: has been to make them plain\\nand practical throughout .jik- wisily Ui lerstood by even the\\nmost inexperienced.\\nTo those who ha T v beer f e: \\\\sted in the Garden\\nand its Manager- a$ee more that you miss\\na great many k H U.kmi your table throughout\\nthe year\u00e2\u0080\u0094 h;:s lv th healthful and appetizing;\\nwhile if i t -i your work as you should be\\nmuch ledge as well as profit will be de-\\nrivftV; ir-j .u W ir. i: of plants both Vegetable and\\ni Vii-J. -xm, you be favored with your share of rain\\n:;.:.:v:::: i: or without these our efforts would be in vain,\\n-:.-j necessary for the well doing of all life plant\\nas animal. Remember, too, that that which is\\nwci-Zh. doing at all is worth doing well. This applies to\\nKOthing more forcibly than in the management of the\\ngarden.\\nBefore parting company I trust we have been of mutual\\nbenefit one to the other and that you will take a more\\nkindly interest in the Garden and its Management than\\nheretofore, if this is possible. So wishing you much suc-\\ncess in your labors, I beg to remain\\nYour faithful, sincere and humble servant,\\nJ no. T. Teat,\\nFeb. 1 2th, g.s. Cardington, O.", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "INDEX\\nPACK\\nThe Farmer s Garden and Its Management.\\nAuthor s Preface 3\\nIntroductory 5-24\\nThe Iyocatioii 7-S\\nThe Soil of the Garden 9\\nPreparing the Soil 9-10\\nTools 10-13\\nleaving out the Garden 13-14\\nCompost 14\\nManure 14-16\\nFertilizers 16\\nProcuring Supplies, Seeds, Plants,\\nEtc 16-17\\nRaising Plants 17-19\\nWatering and Transplanting 19-20\\nSaving .Seed 20\\nHot-beds Illustrated 21-23\\nCold Frame 23-24\\nCultural Notes\u00e2\u0080\u0094 What to Grow and How to\\nGrow It\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Illustrated.\\nArtichokes 25-26\\nAsparagus 26-2S\\nBeans 2S-30\\nBeets 31\\nBorecole or Kale 32\\nBroccoli 32-33\\nBrussels Sprouts 33\\nCabbage 33-36\\nCarrots 36-37\\nCauliflower 37-3S\\nCelery 38-40\\nChives 40\\nChicory 41\\nCollards 41-42\\nCorn Salad 42\\nCorn, Sugar 42-43\\nCorn, Pop 43-44\\nCress 44-45\\nCucumber 45-46\\nDandelion 47\\nEndive 47-48\\nEgg Plant 4 S\\nGarlic 49\\nHorseradish 49\\nHerbs, Culture and Manner of Us-\\ning 49-51\\nKohl-Rabi 51-52\\nI,eek S 2\\nPACE\\nl,ettuce 52-53\\nMelon, Musk 53-54\\nMelon, Water 54-55\\nMustard 55\\nMushrooms 55-56\\nOkra 56-57\\nOnion 57-59\\nParsley 59-60\\nParsnip 60\\nPeas 60-61\\nPeanut 61-62\\nPeppers 62-63\\nPumpkin 63\\nPotatoes, Sweet 63-64\\nPotatoes, Irish 64-67\\nRadish 67\\nRhubarb or Pie-Plant 67-69\\nSage 69\\nSalsify 69-70\\nSpinach 70\\nSquash 70-71\\nTurnip 71-73\\nStoring Vegetables for Wnii.-r\\nUse 7!?\\nTomato 73-74\\nQuantity of Seed Required to\\nProduce a given Number of\\nPlants and^to Sow an Acre\\nof Ground 75-76\\nNumber of Trees, Plants or\\nShrubs 77-7S\\nSmall Fruits\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Illustrated.\\nStrawberry 79-S1\\nRaspberry 81-82\\nBlackberry S2-84\\nCurrants 84-85\\nGooseberry 85-86\\nGrapes S6-88\\nInjurious Insects S9-92\\nKerosene Emulsion 92\\nBordeaux Mixture 92\\nThe I^awu, How to Make and\\nManage Illustrated 93-97\\nFlowers, Notes on Their Cul-\\nture Illustrated 98-103\\nCalendar of Garden Operations\\nfor the Year 104-106\\nConclusion 107", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3057", "width": "1813", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS\\n0000T3aT3b5", "height": "3085", "width": "1859", "jp2-path": "farmersgardenits00teat_0120.jp2"}}