{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3158", "width": "1948", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "L i O.\\nb 0^~\\n-7V\\nr\\n^x Digitized by the Internet Archive-^\\nin 2011 with funding jrom c\\nThe liibrary ot Cdngress\\n1\\n.A\\nV^. O\\nhttp://www.af\u00e2\u0082\u00acj)ni.Yi^.org/a5l^hrs/sailtadonearou00sloc^^^^ a^\\n^^\u00e2\u0096\u00a0\u00e2\u0096\u00a0^r. b v-J ,\\\\V-", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "n\\nO ON C-.\\naV-\\n^1\\nm:\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0J-\\n1 A v V-\\n.t^^lZ^f^/\\nsV\\n.s^ -{7\\n^r^.\u00c2\u00a5\\\\^\\n^-i^\\no\\nvOo.\\nI r\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2J", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "SoxA-^--^ a.\u00c2\u00a3^. ^.Jt^iru.\\no", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "r\\nSAILING ALONE\\nAROUND THE WORLD", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "PAGE\\nCONTENTS\\nCHAPTER I\\n1\\nA blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities Youthful\\nfondness for the sea Master of the ship Northern Light\\nLoss of the Aquidneck Return home from Brazil in\\nthe canoe Liherdade The gift of a ship The re-\\nbuilding of the Sprat/ Conundrums in regard to finance\\nand calking The launching of the Spray 1\\nCHAPTER II\\nFailure as a fisherman A voyage around the world pro-\\njected From Boston to Gloucester Fitting out for\\nthe ocean voyage Half of a dory for a ship s boat\\nThe run from Gloucester to Nova Scotia A shaking up\\nin home waters Among old friends .11\\nCHAPTER III\\nGood-by to the American coast Off Sable Island in a fog\\nIn the open sea The man in the moon takes an in-\\nterest in the voyage The first fit of loneliness The\\nSpray encounters La Vaguisa A bottle of wine from\\nthe Spaniard A bout of words with the captain of the\\nJava The United States cruiser Olympia spoken Ar-\\nrival at the Azores o 23\\nCHAPTER IV\\nSqually weather in the Azores High living Delirious\\nfrom cheese and plums The pilot of the Pinta At\\nGibr-altar Compliments exchanged with the British\\nna\\\\ y A picnic on the Morocco shore .37", "height": "2970", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "viii CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER V\\nPAGE\\nSailing from Gibraltar with the assistance of her Majesty s\\ntug The Spn(i/ s course changed from the Suez Canal\\nto Cape Horn Chased by a Moorish pirate A com-\\nparison with Columbus The Canary Islands The\\nCape Verde Islands Sea life Arrival at Pernambuco\\nA bill against the Brazilian government Preparing\\nfor the stormy weather of the cape 50\\nCHAPTER VI\\nDeparture from Rio de Janeiro The Spray ashore on the\\nsands of Uruguay A narrow escape from shipwreck\\nThe boy who found a sloop The Spray floated but\\nsomewhat damaged Courtesies from the British consul\\nat Maldonado A wai-m greeting at Montevideo An\\nexcursion to Buenos Aires Shortening the mast and\\nbowsprit 65\\nCHAPTER VII\\nWeighing anchor at Buenos Aires An outbui st of emo-\\ntion at the mouth of the Plate Submerged by a gi eat\\nwave A stormy entrance to the strait Captain Sam-\\nblich s hapjjy gift of a bag of carpet-tacks Off Cape\\nFroward Chased by Indians from Fortescue Bay A\\nmiss-shot for Black Pedro Taking in supplies of\\nwood and water at Three Island Cove Animal life 79\\nCHAPTER VIII\\nFrom Cape Pillar into the Pacific Driven by a tempest\\ntoward Cape Horn Captain Slocum s greatest sea ad-\\nventure Reaching the strait again by way of Cock-\\nburn Channel Some savages find the carpet-tacks\\nDanger from firebrands A series of fierce wijliwaws\\nAgain sailing westward 98\\nCHAPTER IX\\nRepairing the Spray s sails Savages and an obstreperous\\nanchor A spider-fight An encounter with Black", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS ix\\nPAGE\\nPedro A visit to tlie steamship Colombia On the de-\\nfensive against a fleet of canoes A record of voyages\\nthrough the strait A chance cargo of tallow 110\\nCHAPTER X\\nEunning to Port Angosto in a snow-storm A defective\\nsheet-rope places the Spray in peril The Spray as a\\ntarget for a Fuegian arrow The island of Alan Erric\\nAgain in the open Pacific The run to the island of\\nJuan Fernandez An absentee king At Robinson\\nCrusoe s anchorage 126\\nCHAPTER XI\\nThe islanders of Juan Fernandez entertained with Yankee\\ndoughnuts The beauties of Robinson Crusoe s realm\\nThe mountain monument to Alexander Selkirk Rob-\\ninson Crusoe s cave A stroll with the children of the\\nisland Westward ho with a friendly gale A month s\\nfree sailing with the Southern Cross and the sun for\\nguides Sighting the Marquesas Experience in reck-\\noning 138\\nCHAPTER XII\\nSeventy-two days without a port Whales and birds A\\npeep into the Spray s galley Flying-fish for breakfast\\nA welcome at Apia A visit from Mrs. Robert Louis\\nStevenson At Vailima Samoan hospitality Ar-\\nrested for fast riding An amusing merry-go-round\\nTeachers and pupils of Papauta College At the mercy\\nof sea-nymphs 150\\nCHAPTER XIII\\nSamoan royalty King Malietoa Good-by to friends at\\nVailima Leaving Fiji to the south Arrival at New-\\ncastle, Australia The yachts of Sydney A ducking\\non the Spray Commodore Foy presents the sloop with\\na new suit of sails On to Melbourne A shark that\\nproved to be valuable A change of course The\\nRain of Blood In Tasmania 164", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "X CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XIV\\nPAGE\\nA testimonial from a lady Cruising round Tasmania\\nThe skipper delivers bis first lecture on the voyage\\nAbundant provisions An inspection of the Spray\\nfor safety at Devonport Again at Sydney North-\\nward bound for Torres Strait An amateiu- shipwTeek\\nFriends on the AustraHan coast Perils of a coral\\n180\\nCHAPTER XV\\nArrival at Port Denison, Queensland A lecture Rem-\\niniscences of Captain Cook Lecturing for charity at\\nCooktown A happy escape from a coral reef Home\\nIsland, Sunday Island, Bird Island An American\\npearl-fisherman Jubilee at Thursday Island A new\\nensign for the Spray Booby Island Across the In-\\ndian Ocean Christmas Island 194\\nCHAPTER XVI\\nA call for careful navigation Three hours steering in\\ntwenty-three days Arrival at the Keeling Cocos Is-\\nlands A cui ious chapter of social history A welcome\\nfrom the children of the islands Cleaning and painting\\nthe Spray on the beach A Mohammedan blessing for a\\npot of jam Keeling as a paradise A risky adventure\\nin a small boat Away to Rodriguez Taken for Anti-\\nchrist The governor calms the fears of the people A\\nlecture A convent in the hills 210\\nCHAPTER XVII\\nA clean bill of health at Mauritius Sailing the voyage\\nover again in the opera-house A newly discovered\\nplant named in honor of the Spray s skipper A n-ty\\nof young ladies out for a sail A bivouac on deck\\nwarm reception at Durban A friendly cross-exar\\ntion by Henry M. Stanley Three wise Boers seek\\nof the flatness of the earth Leaving South Africa", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS xi\\nCHAPTER XVIII\\nPAGE\\nRoTxnding the Cape of Storms in olden time A rough\\nChristmas The Spray ties up for a three months rest\\nat Cape Town A railway trip to the Transvaal\\nPresident Kruger s odd definition of the Spray s voyage\\nHis terse sayings Distinguished guests on the Spray\\nCocoanut fiber as a padlock Courtesies from the\\nadmiral of the Queen s navy Off for St. Helena\\nLand in sight 240\\nCHAPTER XIX\\nIn the isle of Napoleon s exile Two lectures A guest\\nui the ghost-room at Plantation House An excursion\\nto historic Longwood Coft ee in the husk, and a goat\\nto shell it The Spray s ill luck with animals A preju-\\ndice against small dogs A rat, the Boston spider, and\\nthe cannibal cricket Ascension Island 252\\nCHAPTER XX\\nIn the favoring current off Cape St. Roque, Brazil All\\nat sea regarding the Spanish-American war An ex-\\nchange of signals with the battle-ship Oregon Off Drey-\\nfus s prison on Devil s Island \u00e2\u0080\u0094Reappearance to the\\nSpray of the north star The light on Trinidad A\\ncharming introduction to Grenada Talks to friendly\\nauditors 263\\nCHAPTER XXI\\nClearing for home In the calm belt A sea covered with\\nsargasso The jibstay parts in a gale Welcomed by a\\ntornado off Fire Island A change of plan Arrival at\\nNewport End of a cruise of over forty-six thousand\\nmiles The iS^ra?/ again at Fairhaven 272", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "xii CONTENTS\\nAPPENDIX\\nLINES AND SAIL-PLAN OF THE SPRAY\\nPAGE\\nHer pedigree so far as known Thje lines of the Spray\\nHer self-steering qualities Sail-plan and steering-gear\\nAn unprecedented feat A final word of clieer to\\nwould-be navigators 283", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS\\nPAGE\\nFrontispiece\\nThe Sprat\\nFrom a photograph taken in Australian waters.\\nThe Northern Light, Captain Joshua Slocum,\\nBound for Liverpool, 1885\\nCross-section of the Spray\\nIt ll Crawl\\nNo DORG NOR NO CaT\\nThe Deacon s Dream\\nCaptain Slooum s Chronometer\\nGood Evening, Sir\\nHe also Sent his Card\\nChart of the Spray s Course around the World\\nApril 24, 1895, to July 3, 1898\\nThe Island of Pico\\nChart of the Spray s Atlantic Voyages from\\nBoston to Gibraltar, thence to The Strait of\\nMagellan, in 1895, and finally Homeward Bound\\nFROM THE Cape of Good Hope in 1898\\nThe Apparition at the Wheel\\nComing to Anchor at Gibraltar\\nThe Spray at Anchor off Gibraltar\\nChased by Pirates\\n3\\n7\\n9\\n18\\n20\\n22\\n25\\n28\\n30\\n32\\no5\\n40\\n45\\n47\\n53", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "xiv LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS\\nPAGE\\nI Suddenly Remembered that I could not Swim 67\\nA Double Surprise c 70\\nAt the Sign of the Comet 77\\nA -Great Wave off the Patagoniajt Coast 80\\nEntrance to the Strait of Magellan .83\\nThe Course of the Spray through the Strait\\nOP Magellan .85\\nThe Man who would n t Ship without another\\nMON AND A DoOG 87\\nA FuEGiAN Girl 88\\nLooking West from Fortescue Bay, where the\\nSpray was Chased by Indians .90\\nA Brush with Fuegians 93\\nA Bit of Friendly Assistance 95\\nCape Pillar 99\\nThey Howled like a Pack of Hounds lOi\\nA Glimpse of Sandy Point (Punta Arenas) in the\\nStrait of Magellan 107\\nYammerschooner 114\\nA Contrast in Lighting the Electric Lights of\\nTHE Colombia and the Canoe Fires of the For-\\ntescue Indians 119\\nRecords of Passages through the Strait at the\\nHead of Borgia Bay 122\\nSalving Wreckage 124\\nThe First Shot Uncovered Three Fuegians 129\\nThe Spray Approaching Juan Fernandez, Robinson\\nCrusoe s Island 135\\nThe House of the King 139\\nRobinson Crusoe s Cave 140\\nThe Man who Called a Cabra a Goat 143", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS xv\\nPAGE\\nMeeting with the Whale 151\\nFirst Exchange of Courtesies in Samoa 154\\nVailima, the Home op Robert Louis Stevenson 156\\nThe Spray s Course from Australia to South\\nAfrica 160\\nThe Accident at Sydney 169\\nCaptain Slocum Working the Spray out of the\\nYarrow Eiver, a Part of Melbourne Harbor 173\\nThe Shark on the Deck of the Spray 175\\nOn Board at St. Kilda. Eetracing on the Chart\\nTHE Course of the Spray from Boston 178\\nThe Spray in her Port Duster at Devonport,\\nTasmania, February 22, 1897 183\\nIs it A-goin to Blow? 188\\nThe Spray Leaving Sydney, Australia, in the New\\nSuit of Sails Given by Commodore Foy op Aus-\\ntralia 197\\nThe Spray Ashore for Boot-topping at the\\nKeeling Islands 215\\nCaptain Slocum Drifting out to Sea 220\\nThe Spray at Mauritius 227\\nCaptain Joshua Slocum 235\\nCartoon Printed in the Cape Town Owl op\\nMarch 5, 1898, in Connection with an Item about\\nCaptain Slocum s Trip to Pretoria 244\\nCaptain Slocum, Sir Alfred Milner (with the Tall\\nHat), and Colonel Saunderson, M. P., on the Bow\\nOF THE Spray at Cape Town 247\\nEeading Day and Night 249\\nThe Spray Passed by the Oregon 265\\nAgain Tied to the Old Stake at Fairhaven 279", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS\\nPAGE\\nPlan op the After Cabin op the Spray 284\\nDeck-plan op the Spray 287\\nSail-plan op the Spray 288\\nSteering-gear op the Spray 289\\nBody-plan op the Spray 291\\nLines op the Spray 293", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "The Spray.\\nFrom a photograpb taken in Australian waters.", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "TO THE ONE WHO SAID\\nTHE spray WILL COME BACK.", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "SAILING ALONE\\nAROUND THE WORLD", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "SAILING ALONE AROUND\\nTHE WORLD\\nCHAPTER I\\nA blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities Youthful fondness\\nfor the sea Master of the ship Northern Light Loss of the\\nAqiiidneck Return home from Brazil in the canoe Liber dade\\nThe gift of a ship The rebuilding of the Spray Conundrums\\nin regard to finance and calking The launching of the Spray.\\nIN the fair land of Nova Scotia, a maritime prov-\\nince, there is a ridge called North Mountain,\\noverlooking the Bay of Fundy on one side and\\nthe fertile Annapolis valley on the other. On the\\nnorthern slope of the range grows the hardy spruce-\\ntree, well adapted for ship-timbers, of which many\\nvessels of all classes have been built. The people\\nof this coast, hardy, robust, and strong, are disposed\\nto compete in the world s commerce, and it is\\nnothing against the master mariner if the birth-\\nplace mentioned on his certificate be Nova Scotia.\\nI was born in a cold spot, on coldest North Moun-", "height": "2976", "width": "1711", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "2 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ntain, on a cold February 20, though I am a citizen\\nof the United States a naturalized Yankee, if it\\nmay be said that Nova Scotians are not Yankees\\nin the truest sense of the word. On both sides my\\nfamily were sailors and if any Slocum should be\\nfound not seafaring, he will show at least an inclina-\\ntion to whittle models of boats and contemplate\\nvoyages. My father was the sort of man who, if\\nwrecked on a desolate island, would find his way\\nhome, if he had a jack-knife and could find a tree.\\nHe was a good judge of a boat, but the old clay\\nfarm which some calamity made his was an anchor\\nto him. He was not afraid of a capful of wind, and\\nhe never took a back seat at a camp-meeting or a\\ngood, old-fashioned revival.\\nAs for myself, the wonderful sea charmed me\\nfrom the first. At the age of eight I had already\\nbeen afloat along with other boys on the bay,\\nwith chances greatly in favor of being drowned.\\nWhen a lad I filled the important post of cook on\\na fishing-schooner but I was not long in the gal-\\nley, for the crew mutinied at the appearance of my\\nfirst duff, and chucked me out before I had a\\nchance to shine as a culinary artist. The next step\\ntoward the goal of happiness found me before the\\nmast in a full-rigged ship bound on a foreign voy-\\nage. Thus I came over the bows, and not in\\nthrough the cabin windows, to the command of a\\nship.\\nMy best command was that of the magnificent\\nship Northern Light, of which I was part-owner. I\\nhad a right to be proud of her, for at that time\\nin the eighties she was the finest American sail-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "MASTER OF THE SHIP NORTHERN LIGHT 3\\ning-vessel afloat. Afterward I owned and sailed\\nthe Aqiiidneck, a little bark which of all man s\\nhandiwork seemed to me the nearest to perfection\\nof beanty, and which in speed, when the wind\\nblew, asked no favors of steamers. I had been\\nnearly twenty years a shipmaster when I quit her\\nDrawn hy W. Taber.\\nThe Northern Light, Captain Joshua Slocum,\\nbound for Liverpool, 1885.\\ndeck on the coast of Brazil, where she was wrecked.\\nMy home voyage to New York with my family was\\nmade in the canoe Liberdade, without accident.\\nMy voyages were all foreign. I sailed as freighter\\nand trader principally to China, Australia, and\\nJapan, and among the Spice Islands. Mine was\\nnot the sort of life to make one long to coil up\\none s ropes on land, the customs and ways of which\\nI had finally almost forgotten. And so when times", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "4 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nfor freighters got bad, as at last they did, and I\\ntried to quit the sea, what was there for an old sailor\\nto do I was born in the breezes, and I had studied\\nthe sea as perhaps few men have studied it, neglect-\\ning all else. Next in attractiveness, after seafar-\\ning, came ship-building. I longed to be master in\\nboth professions, and in a small way, in time, I ac-\\ncomplished my desire. From the decks of stout\\nships in the worst gales I had made calculations as\\nto the size and sort of ship safest for all weather\\nand all seas. Thus the voyage which I am now to\\nnarrate was a natural outcome not only of my love\\nof adventure, but of my lifelong experience.\\nOne midwinter day of 1892, in Boston, where I\\nhad been cast up from old ocean, so to speak, a year\\nor two before, I was cogitating whether I should\\napply for a command, and again eat my bread and\\nbutter on the sea, or go to work at the shipyard,\\nwhen I met an old acquaintance, a whaling-captain,\\nwho said Come to Fairhaven and I 11 give you a\\nship. But, he added, she wants some repairs.\\nThe captain s terms, when fully explained, were\\nmore than satisfactory to me. They included all\\nthe assistance I would require to fit the craft for\\nsea. I was only too glad to accept, for I had al-\\nready found that I could not obtain work in the\\nshipyard without first paying fifty dollars to a so-\\nciety, and as for a ship to command there were\\nnot enough ships to go round. Nearly all our tall\\nvessels had been cut down for coal-barges, and were\\nbeing ignominiously towed by the nose from port\\nto port, while many worthy captains addressed\\nthemselves to Sailors Snug Harbor.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "THE GIFT OF A SHIP 5\\nThe next day I landed at Fairhaven, opposite\\nNew Bedford, and found that my friend had some-\\nthing of a joke on me. For seven years the joke\\nhad been on him. The ship proved to be a very\\nantiquated sloop called the Spray which the neigh-\\nbors declared had been built in the year 1. She\\nwas affectionately propped up in a field, some dis-\\ntance from salt water, and was covered with canvas.\\nThe people of Fairhaven, I hardly need say, are\\nthrifty and observant. For seven years they had\\nasked, I wonder what Captain Eben Pierce is\\ngoing to do with the old Spray 1 The day I ap-\\npeared there was a buzz at the gossip exchange:\\nat last some one had come and was actually at work\\non the old Spray. Breaking her up, I s pose?\\nNo going to rebuild her. Grreat was the amaze-\\nment. Will it pay was the question which for\\na year or more I answered by declaring that I\\nwould make it pay.\\nMy ax felled a stout oak-tree near by for a keel,\\nand Farmer Howard, for a small sum of money,\\nhauled in this and enough timbers for the frame\\nof the new vessel. I rigged a steam-box and a\\npot for a boiler. The timbers for ribs, being\\nstraight saplings, were dressed and steamed till\\nsupple, and then bent over a log, where they\\nwere secured till set. Something tangible ap-\\npeared every day to show for my labor, and the\\nneighbors made the work sociable. It was a great\\nday in the Spray shipyard when her new stem was\\nset up and fastened to the new keel. Whaling-\\ncaptains came from far to survey it. With one voice\\nthey pronounced it A 1, and in their opinion fit", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "6 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nto smash ice. The oldest captain shook my hand\\nwarmly when the breast-hooks were put in, declar-\\ning that he could see no reason why the Spray\\nshould not cut in bow-head yet off the coast of\\nGreenland. The much-esteemed stem-piece was\\nfrom the butt of the smartest kind of a pasture\\noak. It afterward split a coral patch in two at the\\nKeeling Islands, and did not receive a blemish.\\nBetter timber for a ship than pastm^e white oak\\nnever grew. The breast-hooks, as well as all the\\nribs, were of this wood, and were steamed and bent\\ninto shape as required. It was hard upon March\\nwhen I began work in earnest; the weather was\\ncold still, there were plenty of inspectors to back\\nme with advice. When a whaling-captain hove\\nin sight I just rested on my adz awhile and\\ngammed with him..\\nNew Bedford, the home of whaling-captains, is\\nconnected with Fairhaven by a bridge, and the\\nwalking is good. They never worked along up\\nto the shipyard too often for me. It was the\\ncharming tales about arctic whaling that inspired\\nme to put a double set of breast-hooks in the Spray,\\nthat she might shunt ice.\\nThe seasons came quickly while I worked.\\nHardly were the ribs of the sloop up before apple-\\ntrees were in bloom. Then the daisies and the\\ncherries came soon after. Close by the place where\\nthe old Spray had now dissolved rested the ashes\\nof John Cook, a revered Pilgrim father. So the\\nnew Spray rose from hallowed ground. From the\\ndeck of the new craft I could put out my hand and\\npick cherries that grew over the little grave. The", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "THE REBUILDING OF THE SPRAY\\nplanks for the new vessel, which I soon came to pnt\\non, were of Georgia pine an inch and a half thick.\\nThe operation of putting them on was tedious, but,\\nwhen on, the calking was easy. The outward edges\\nstood slightly open to receive the calking, but the\\ninner edges were so close that I could not see day-\\nlight between them. All the butts were f astenea by\\nthrough bolts, with screw-\\nnuts tightening them to\\nthe timbers, so that there\\nwould be no complaint\\nfrom them. Many bolts\\nwith screw-nuts were used\\nin other parts of the con-\\nstruction, in all about a\\nthousand. It was my pur-\\npose to make my vessel\\nstout and strong.\\nNow, it is a law in Lloyd s\\nthat the Jane repaired all\\nout of the old until she is\\nentirely new is still the Jane. The Spray changed\\nher being so gradually that it was hard to say at\\nwhat point the old died or the new took birth,\\nand it was no matter. The bulwarks I built up\\nof white-oak stanchions fourteen inches high,\\nand covered with seven-eighth-inch white pine.\\nThese stanchions, mortised through a two-inch\\ncovering-board, I calked with thin cedar wedges.\\nThey have remained perfectly tight ever since.\\nThe deck I made of one-and-a-half-inch by three-\\ninch white pine spiked to beams, six by six inches,\\nof yellow or Greorgia pine, placed three feet apart.\\nCross-section of the Spray.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "8 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nThe deck-inclosures were one over the aperture\\nof the main hatch, six feet by six, for a cook-\\ning-galley, and a trunk farther aft, about ten feet\\nby twelve, for a cabin. Both of these rose about\\nthree feet above the deck, and were sunk suf-\\nficiently into the hold to afford head-room. In\\nthe spaces along the sides of the cabin, under the\\ndeck, I arranged a berth to sleep in, and shelves\\nfor small storage, not forgetting a place for the\\nmedicine-chest. In the midship hold, that is, the\\nspace between cabin and galley, under the deck,\\nwas room for provision of water, salt beef, etc.,\\nample for many months.\\nThe hull of my vessel being now put together as\\nstrongly as wood and iron could make her, and the\\nvarious rooms partitioned off, I set about calking\\nship. Glrave fears were entertained by some that\\nat this point I should fail. I myself gave some\\nthought to the advisability of a professional\\ncalker. The very first blow I struck on the cotton\\nwith the calkin g-iron, which I thought was right,\\nmany others thought wrong. It U crawl cried\\na man from Marion, passing with a basket of clams\\non his back. It 11 crawl cried another from\\nWest Island, when he saw me driving cotton\\ninto the seams. Bruno simply wagged his tail.\\nEven Mr. Ben J a noted authority on whaling-\\nships, whose mind, however, was said to totter,\\nasked rather confidently if I did not think it\\nwould crawl. How fast will it crawl cried my\\nold captain friend, who had been towed by many\\na lively sperm-whale. Tell us how fast, cried\\nhe, that we may get into port in time. How-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "r\\n10 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\never, I drove a thread of oakum on top of the\\ncotton, as from the first I had intended to do.\\nAnd Bruno again wagged his tail. The cotton\\nnever crawled. When the calking was finished,\\ntwo coats of copper paint were slapped on the bot-\\ntom, two of white lead on the topsides and bul-\\nwarks. The rudder was then shipped and painted,\\nand on the following day the Spray was launched.\\nAs she rode at her ancient, rust-eaten anchor, she\\nsat on the water like a swan.\\nThe Spray s dimensions were, when finished,\\nthirty-six feet nine inches long, over all, fourteen\\nfeet two inches wide, and four feet two inches deep\\nin the hold, her tonnage being nine tons net and\\ntwelve and seventy-one hundredths tons gross.\\nThen the mast, a smart Xew Hampshire spruce,\\nwas fitted, and likewise all the small appurtenances\\nnecessary for a short cruise. Sails were bent, and\\naway she flew with my friend Captain Pierce and\\nme, across Buzzard s Bay on a trial -trip all right.\\nThe only thing that now worried my friends along\\nthe beach was, Will she pay? The cost of my\\nnew vessel was $553.62 for materials, and thirteen\\nmonths of my own labor. I was several months\\nmore than that at Fairhaven, for I got work now\\nand then on an occasional whale-ship fitting farther\\ndown the harbor, and that kept me the overtime.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II\\nFailure as a fisherman A voyage around the world projected\\nFrom Boston to Gloucester Fitting out for the ocean voyage\\nHalf of a dory for a ship s boat The run from Gloucester to\\nNova Scotia A shaking up in home waters Among old friends.\\nI SPENT a season in my new craft fishing on\\nthe coast, only to find that I had not the cun-\\nning properly to bait a hook. But at last the time\\narrived to weigh anchor and get to sea in earnest.\\nI had resolved on a voyage around the world, and\\nas the wind on the morning of April 24, 1895, was\\nfair, at noon I weighed anchor, set sail, and filled\\naway from Boston, where the Spray had been\\nmoored snugly all winter. The twelve-o clock whis-\\ntles were blowing just as the sloop shot ahead under\\nfull sail. A short board was made up the harbor\\non the port tack, then coming about she stood sea-\\nward, with her boom well off to port, and swung\\npast the ferries with lively heels. A photographer\\non the outer pier at East Boston got a picture of her\\nas she swept by, her flag at the peak throwing its\\nfolds clear. A thrilling pulse beat high in me. My\\nstep was light on deck in the crisp air. I felt that\\nthere could be no turning back, and that I was en-\\ngaging in an adventure the meaning of which I\\nthoroughly understood. I had taken little advice", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "12 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nfrom any one, for I had a right to my own opinions\\nin matters pertaining to the sea. That the best of\\nsailors might do worse than even I alone was borne\\nin upon me not a league from Boston docks, where\\na great steamship, fully manned, officered, and pi-\\nloted, lay stranded and broken. This was the Ve-\\nnetian. She was broken completely in two over a\\nledge. So in the first hour of my lone voyage I had\\nproof that the Spray could at least do better than\\nthis full-handed steamship, for I was already farther\\non my voyage than she. Take warning. Spray,\\nand have a care, I uttered aloud to my bark, pass-\\ning fairylike silently down the bay.\\nThe wind freshened, and the Spray rounded Deer\\nIsland light, going at the rate of seven knots.\\nPassing it, she squared away direct for Gloucester,\\nwhere she was to procure some fishermen s stores.\\nWaves dancing joyously across Massachusetts Bay\\nmet the sloop coming out, to dash themselves in-\\nstantly into myriads of sparkling gems that hung\\nabout her breast at every surge. The day was per-\\nfect, the sunlight clear and strong. Every particle\\nof water thrown into the air became a gem, and the\\nSpray, making good her name as she dashed ahead,\\nsnatched necklace after necklace from the sea, and\\nas often threw them away. We have all seen min-\\niature rainbows about a ship s prow, but the Spray\\nflung out a bow of her own that day, such as I\\nhad never seen before. Her good angel had em-\\nbarked on the voyage I so read it in the sea.\\nBold Nahant was soon abeam, then Marblehead\\nwas put astern. Other vessels were outward bound,\\nbut none of them passed the Spray flying along on", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "FEOM BOSTON TO GLOUCESTER 13\\nher course. I heard the clanking of the dismal bell\\non Norman s Woe as we went by; and the reef\\nwhere the schooner Hesperus struck I passed close\\naboard. The bones of a wreck tossed up lay\\nbleaching on the shore abreast. The wind still\\nfreshening, I settled the throat of the mainsail to\\nease the sloop s helm, for I could hardly hold her\\nbefore it with the whole mainsail set. A schooner\\nahead of me lowered all sail and ran into port\\nunder bare poles, the wind being fair. As the\\nSpray brushed by the stranger, 1 saw that; some of\\nhis sails were gone, and much broken canvas hung\\nin his rigging, from the effects of a squall.\\nI made for the cove, a lovely branch of Grlou-\\ncester s fine harbor, again to look the Spray over\\nand again to weigh the voyage, and my feelings,\\nand all that. The bay was feather-white as my\\nlittle vessel tore in, smothered in foam. It was my\\nfirst experience of coming into port alone, with a\\ncraft of any size, and in among shipping. Old\\nfishermen ran down to the wharf for which the\\nSpray was heading, apparently intent upon brain-\\ning herself there. I hardly know how a calamity\\nwas averted, but with my heart in my mouth,\\nalmost, I let go the wheel, stepped quickly forward,\\nand downed the jib. The sloop naturally rounded\\nin the wind, and just ranging ahead, laid her cheek\\nagainst a mooring-pile at the windward corner\\nof the wharf, so quietly, after all, that she would\\nnot have broken an Qgg. Very leisurely I passed\\na rope around the post, and she was moored. Then\\na cheer went up from the little crowd on the wharf.\\nYou could n t a done it better, cried an old", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "14 SAILING A1.0NE AROUND THE WORLD\\nskipper, if you weighed a ton Now, my weight\\nwas rather less than the fifteenth part of a toe,\\nbut I said nothing, only putting on a look of care-\\nless indifference to say for me, Oh, that s no-\\nthing for some of the ablest sailors in the world\\nwere looking at me, and my wish was not to appear\\ngreen, for I had a mind to stay in Gloucester sev-\\neral days. Had I uttered a word it surely would\\nhave betrayed me, for I was still quite nervous and\\nshort of breath.\\nI remained in Grloucester about two weeks, fit-\\nting out with the various articles for the voyage\\nmost readily obtained there. The owners of the\\nwharf where I lay, and of many fishing- vessels, put\\non board dry cod galore, also a barrel of oil to calm\\nthe waves. They were old skippers themselves,\\nand took a great interest in the voyage. They also\\nmade the SjJray a present of a fisherman s own\\nlantern, which I found would throw a light a great\\ndistance round. Indeed, a ship that would run\\nanother down having such a good light aboard\\nwould be capable of running into a light-ship. A\\ngaff, a pugh, and a dip-net, all of which an old\\nfisherman declared I could not sail without, were\\nalso put aboard. Then, too, from across the cove\\ncame, a case of copper paint, a famous antifouling\\narticle, which stood me in good stead long after.\\nI slapped two coats of this paint on the bottom of\\nthe Spray while she lay a tide or so on the hard\\nbeach.\\nFor a boat to take along, I made shift to cut a\\ncastaway dory in two athwartships, boarding up\\nthe end where it was cut. This half -dory I could", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "FITTING OUT FOR THE OCEAN VOYAGE 15\\nhoist in and out by the nose easily enough, by hook-\\ning the throat-halyards into a strop fitted for the\\npurpose. A whole dory would be heavy and awk-\\nward to handle alone. Manifestly there was not\\nroom on deck for more than the half of a boat, which,\\nafter all, was better than no boat at all, and was large\\nenough for one man. I perceived, moreoverj that\\nthe newly arranged craft would answer for a wash-\\ning-machine when placed athwartships, and also for\\na bath-tub. Indeed, for the former office my razeed\\ndory gained such a reputation on the voyage that\\nmy washerwoman at Samoa would not take no for\\nan answer. She could see with one eye that it was\\na new invention which beat any Yankee notion\\never brought by missionaries to the islands, and\\nshe had to have it.\\nThe want of a chronometer for the voyage was\\nall that now worried me. In our newfangled no-\\ntions of navigation it is supposed that a mariner\\ncannot find his way without one and I had myself\\ndrifted into this way of thinking. My old chro-\\nnometer, a good one, had been long in disuse. It\\nwould cost fifteen dollars to clean and rate it. Fif-\\nteen dollars For sufficient reasons I left that\\ntimepiece at home, where the Dutchman left his\\nanchor. I had the great lantern, and a lady in\\nBoston sent me the price of a large two-burner\\ncabin lamp, which lighted the cabin at night, and\\nby some small contriving served for a stove through\\nthe day.\\nBeing thus refitted I was once more ready for sea,\\nand on May 7 again made sail. With little room in\\nwhich to turn, the Spray, in gathering headway,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "16 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nscratched the paint oif au old, fine-weather craft in\\nthe fairway, being puttied and painted for a sum-\\nmer voyage. Who 11 pay for that growled the\\npainters. I will, said I. With the main-sheet,\\nechoed the captain of the Bluebird, close by, which\\nwas his way of saying that I was off.. There was\\nnothing to pay for above five cents worth of paint,\\nmaybe, but such a din was raised between the old\\nhooker and the Bluebird, which now took up my\\ncase, that the first cause of it was forgotten alto-\\ngether. Anyhow, no bill was sent after me.\\nThe weather was mild on the day of my depar-\\nture from Grloucester. On the point ahead, as the\\nSpray stood out of the cove, was a lively picture,\\nfor the front of a tall factory was a flutter of hand-\\nkerchiefs and caps. Pretty faces peered out of the\\nwindows from the top to the bottom of the build-\\ning, all smiling bon voyage. Some hailed me to\\nknow where away and why alone. Why When\\nI made as if to stand in, a hundred pairs of arms\\nreached out, and said come, but the shore was dan-\\ngerous The sloop worked out of the bay against\\na light southwest wind, and about noon squared\\naway off Eastern Point, receiving at the same time\\na hearty salute the last of many kindnesses to\\nher at Grloucester. The wind freshened off the\\npoint, and skipping along smoothly, the Spray was\\nsoon off Thatcher s Island lights. Thence shaping\\nher course east, by compass, to go north of Cashes\\nLedge and the Amen Rocks, I sat and considered\\nthe matter all over again, and asked myself once\\nmore whether it were best to sail beyond the ledge\\nand rocks at all. I had only said that I would sail", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "THE RUN FROM GLOUCESTER TO NOVA SCOTIA 17\\nround the world in the Spray, dangers of the sea\\nexcepted, but I must have said it very much in\\nearnest. The charter-party with myself seemed\\nto bind me, and so I sailed on. Toward night I\\nhauled the sloop to the wind, and baiting a hook,\\nsounded for bottom-fish, in thirty fathoms of\\nwater, on the edge of Cashes Ledge. With fair\\nsuccess I hauled till dark, landing on deck three\\ncod and two haddocks, one hake, and, best of all, a\\nsmall halibut, all plump and spry. This, I thought,\\nwould be the place to take in a good stock of pro-\\nvisions above what I already had so I put out a\\nsea-anchor that would hold her head to windward.\\nThe current being southwest, against the wind, I\\nfelt quite sure I would find the Spray still on the\\nbank or near it in the morning. Then strad-\\nding the cable and putting my great lantern in\\nthe rigging, I lay down, for the first time at sea\\nalone, not to sleep, but to doze and to dream.\\nI had read somewhere of a fishing- schooner hook-\\ning her anchor into a whale, and being towed a\\nlong way and at great speed. This was exactly\\nwhat happened to the Spray in my dream I\\ncould not shake it off entirely when I awoke and\\nfound that it was the wind blowing and the\\nheavy sea now running that had disturbed my short\\nrest. A scud was flying across the moon. A storm\\nwas brewing; indeed, it was already stormy. I\\nreefed the sails, then hauled in my sea-anchor, and\\nsetting what canvas the sloop could carry, headed\\nher away for Monhegan light, which she made before\\ndaylight on the morning of the 8th. The wind be-\\ning free, I ran on into Round Pond harbor, which", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "18\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nis a little port east from Pemaquid. Here I rested\\na day, while the wind rattled among the pine-trees\\non shore. But the following day was fine enough,\\nNo dors; nor no cat.\\nand I put to sea, first wiiting up my log from Cape\\nAnn, not omitting a full account of my adventure\\nwith the whale.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "THE RUN FROM GLOUCESTER TO NOVA SCOTIA 19\\nThe Spray, heading east, stretched along the\\ncoast among many islands and over a tranquil sea.\\nAt evening of this day, May 10, she came np with\\na considerable island, which I shall always think of\\nas the Island of Frogs, for the Spray was charmed\\nby a million voices. From the Island of Frogs we\\nmade for the Island of Birds, called Grannet Island,\\nand sometimes Gannet Rock, whereon is a bright,\\nintermittent light, which flashed fitfully across the\\nSpray^s deck as she coasted along under its light\\nand shade. Thence shaping a course for Briar s\\nIsland, I came among vessels the following after-\\nnoon on the western fishing-grounds, and after\\nspeaking a fisherman at anchor, who gave me a\\nwrong course, the Spray sailed directly over the\\nsouthwest ledge through the worst tide-race in the\\nBay of Fundy, and got into Westport harbor in\\nNova Scotia, where I had spent eight years of my\\nlife as a lad.\\nThe fisherman may have said east-southeast,\\nthe course I was steering when I hailed him but I\\nthought he said east-northeast, and I accordingly\\nchanged it to that. Before he made up his mind\\nto answer me at all, he improved the occasion of\\nhis own curiosity to know where I was from, and\\nif I was alone, and if I did n t have no dorg nor\\nno cat. It was the first time in all my life at sea\\nthat I had heard a hail for information answered\\nby a question. I think the chap belonged to the\\nForeign Islands. There was one thing I was sure\\nof, and that was that he did not belong to Briar s\\nIsland, because he dodged a sea that slopped over\\nthe rail, and stopping to brush the water from his", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "20\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nface, lost a fine cod which he was about to ship.\\nMy islander would not have done that. It is known\\nthat a Briar Islander, fish or no fish on his hook,\\nnever flinches from a sea. He just tends to his\\nlines and hauls or saws. Nay, have I not seen\\nmy old friend Deacon W. D a good man of the\\nThe deacon s dream.\\nisland, while hstening to a sermon in the little\\nchurch on the hill, reach out his hand over the\\ndoor of his pew and jig imaginary squid in the\\naisle, to the intense delight of the young people,\\nwho did not realize that to catch good fish one\\nmust have good bait, the thing most on the dea-\\ncon s mind.\\nI was delighted to reach Westi^ort. Any port at\\nall would have been delightful after the terrible\\nthrashing I got in the fierce sou west rip, and to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "AMONG OLD FRIENDS 21\\nfind myself among old schoolmates now was charm-\\ning. It was the 13th of the month, and 13 is my\\nlucky number a fact registered long before Dr.\\nNansen sailed in search of the north pole with his\\ncrew of thirteen. Perhaps he had heard of my\\nsuccess in taking a most extraordinary ship success-\\nfully to Brazil with that number of crew. The very\\nstones on Briar s Island I was glad to see again,\\nand I knew them all. The little shop round the\\ncorner, which for thirty-five years I had not seen,\\nwas the same, except that it looked a deal smaller.\\nIt wore the same shingles I was sure of it for\\ndid not I know the roof where we boys, night after\\nnight, hunted for the skin of a black cat, to be\\ntaken on a dark night, to make a plaster for a poor\\nlame man? Lowry the tailor lived there when\\nboys were boys. In his day he was fond of the\\ngun. He always carried his powder loose in the\\ntail pocket of his coat. He usually had in his\\nmouth a short dudeen but in an evil moment he\\nput the dudeen, lighted, in the pocket among the\\npowder. Mr. Lowry was an eccentric man.\\nAt Briar s Island I overhauled the Spray once\\nmore and tried her seams, but found that even the\\ntest of the sou west rip had started nothing. Bad\\nweather and much head wind prevailing outside, I\\nwas in no hurry to round Cape Sable. I made a\\nshort excursion with some friends to St. Mary s\\nBay, an old cruising-ground, and back to the\\nisland. Then I sailed, putting into Yarmouth the\\nfollowing day on account of fog and head wind. I\\nspent some days pleasantly enough in Yarmouth,\\ntook in some butter for the voyage, also a barrel of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "22\\nSAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\npotatoes, filled six barrels of water, and stowed all\\nunder deck. At Yarmouth, too, I got my famous\\ntin clock, the only timepiece I carried on the whole\\nvoyage. The price of it was a dollar and a half,\\nbut on account of the face being smashed the mer-\\nchant let me have it for a dollar.\\nCaptain Slocum s chronometer.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "CHAPTEE III\\n6ood-by to the American coast Oft Sable Island in a fog In\\nthe open sea The man in the moon takes an interest in the\\nvoyage The first fit of loneliness The Spray encounters La\\nVaguisa A bottle of wine from the Spaniard A bout of words\\nwith the captain of the Java The United States cruiser Olympia\\nspoken Arrival at the Azores.\\nI NOW stowed all my goods securely, for the bois-\\nterous Atlantic was before me, and I sent the top-\\nmast down, knowing that the Spray would be the\\nwholesomer with it on deck. Then I gave the lan-\\nyards a pull and hitched them afresh, and saw that\\nthe gammon was secure, also that the boat was\\nlashed, for even in summer one may meet with bad\\nweather in the crossing.\\nIn fact, many weeks of bad weather had pre-\\nvailed. On July 1, however, after a rude gale, the\\nwind came out nor west and clear, propitious for a\\ngood run. On the following day, the head sea hav-\\ning gone down, I sailed from Yarmouth, and let go\\nmy last hold on America. The log of my first day\\non the Atlantic in the Spray reads briefly 9 30\\nA. M. sailed from Yarmouth. 4 30 p. m. passed Cape\\nSable distance, three cables from the land. The\\nsloop making eight knots. Fresh breeze N. W.\\nBefore the sun went down I was taking my supper", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "24 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nof strawberries and tea in smooth water under the\\nlee of the east-coast land, along which the Spray\\nwas now leisurely skirting.\\nAt noon on July 3 Ironbound Island was abeam.\\nThe Spray was again at her best. A large schooner\\ncame out of Liverpool, Nova Scotia, this morning,\\nsteering eastward. The Spray put her hull down\\nastern in five hom s. At 6 45 p. m. I was in close\\nunder Chebucto Head light, near Halifax harbor. I\\nset my flag and squared away, taking my departure\\nfrom George s Island before dark to sail east of\\nSable Island. There are many beacon lights along\\nthe coast. Sambro, the Rock of Lamentations,\\ncarries a noble light, which, however, the liner\\nAtlantic, on the night of her terrible disaster, did\\nnot see. I watched light after light sink astern as\\nI sailed into the unbounded sea, till Sambro, the\\nlast of them aU, was below the horizon. The Spray\\nwas then alone, and sailing on, she held her course.\\nJuly 4, at 6 a. m., I iDut in double reefs, and at 8 30\\nA. M. turned out all reefs. At 9 40 p. m. I raised the\\nsheen only of the light on the west end of Sable\\nIsland, which may also be called the Island of\\nTragedies. The fog, which till this moment had\\nheld off, now lowered over the sea like a pall. I\\nwas in a world of fog, shut off from the universe.\\nI did not see any more of the light. By the lead,\\nwhich I cast often, I found that a little after mid-\\nnight I was passing the east point of the island,\\nand should soon be clear of dangers of land and\\nshoals. The wind was holding free, though it was\\nfrom the foggy point, south-southwest. It is said\\nthat within a few years Sable Island has been", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "IN THE OPEN SEA\\n25\\nreduced from forty miles in length to twenty, and\\nthat of three lighthouses built on it since 1880, two\\nhave been washed away and the third will soon be\\nengulfed.\\nGood evening, sir.\\nOn the evening of July 5 the Spray, after having\\nsteered all day over a lumpy sea, took it into her\\nhead to go without the helmsman s aid. I had\\nbeen steering southeast by south, but the wind\\nhauling forward a bit, she dropped into a smooth", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "26 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nlane, heading southeast, and making about eight\\nknots, her very best work. I crowded on sail to\\ncross the track of the liners without loss of time,\\nand to reach as soon as possible the friendly Grulf\\nStream. The fog lifting before night, I was\\nafforded a look at the sun just as it was touching\\nthe sea. I watched it go down and out of sight.\\nThen I turned my face eastward, and there, appa-\\nrently at the very end of the bowsprit, was the\\nsmihng full moon rising out of the sea. Neptune\\nhimself coming over the bows could not have star-\\ntled me more. G^ood evening, sir, I cried; I m\\nglad to see you. Many a long talk since then I\\nhave had with the man in the moon he had my\\nconfidence on the voyage.\\nAbout midnight the fog shut down again denser\\nthan ever before. One could almost stand on it.\\nIt continued so for a number of days, the wind in-\\ncreasing to a gale. The waves rose high, but I had\\na good ship. Still, in the dismal fog I felt myself\\ndrifting into loneliness, an insect on a straw in the\\nmidst of the elements. I lashed the helm, and my\\nvessel held her course, and while she sailed I slept.\\nDuring these days a feeling of awe crept over\\nme. My memory worked with startling power. The\\nominous, the insignificant, the great, the small, the\\nwonderful, the commonplace all appeared before\\nmy mental vision in magical succession. Pages of\\nmy history were recalled which had been so long\\nforgotten that they seemed to belong to a previous\\nexistence. I heard all the voices of the past laugh-\\ning, crying, telling what I had heard them tell in\\nmany corners of the earth.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "THE FIRST BIT OF LONELINESS 27\\nThe loneliness of my state wore off when the\\ngale was high and I found much work to do.\\nWhen fine weather returned, then came the sense\\nof solitude, which I could not shake off. I used my\\nvoice often, at first giving some order about the af-\\nfairs of a ship, for I had been told that from disuse\\nI should lose my speech. At the meridian altitude\\nof the sun I called aloud, Eight bells, after the\\ncustom on a ship at sea. Again from my cabin I\\ncried to an imaginary man at the helm, How does\\nshe head, there! and again, Is she on her course?\\nBut getting no reply, I was reminded the more\\npalpably of my condition. My voice sounded hol-\\nlow on the empty air, and I dropped the practice.\\nHowever, it was not long before the thought came\\nto me that when I was a lad I used to sing why\\nnot try that now, where it would disturb no one\\nMy musical talent had never bred envy in others,\\nbut out on the Atlantic, to realize what it meant,\\nyou should have heard me sing. You should have\\nseen the porpoises leap when I pitched my voice\\nfor the waves and the sea and all that was in it.\\nOld turtles, with large eyes, poked their heads up\\nout of the sea as I sang Johnny Boker, and\\nWe 11 Pay Darby Doyl for his Boots, and the\\nlike. But the porpoises were, on the whole, vastly\\nmore appreciative than the turtles; they jumped\\na deal higher. One day when I was humming a\\nfavorite chant, I think it was Babylon s a-Fallin\\na porpoise jumped higher than the bowsprit. Had\\nthe Spray been going a little faster she would have\\n..scooped him in. The sea-birds sailed around rather\\nshy.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "28\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nJuly 10, eight days at sea, the Spray was twelve\\nhundred miles east of Cape Sable. One hundred\\nand fifty miles a day for so small a vessel must be\\nconsidered good sailing. It was the greatest run\\nthe Spray ever made before or since in so few days.\\nOn the evening of July 14, in better humor than\\never before, all hands cried, Sail ho The sail\\nwas a barkantine, three points on the weather bow,\\nhull down. Then came the night. My ship was\\nsailing along now without attention to the helm.\\nThe wind was south she was heading east. Her\\nsails were^ trimmed like the sails of the nautilus.\\nThey drew steadily all night. I went frequently\\non deck, but found ah well. A merry breeze kept\\non from the\\nsouth. Early\\nin the morn-\\ning of the\\n15th the\\nSpray was\\nclose aboard\\nthe stranger, which proved to\\nbe La Vaguisa of Vigo, twenty-\\nthree days from Philadelphia,\\nbound for Vigo. A lookout\\nfrom his masthead had spied\\nthe Spray the evening before.\\nThe captain, when I came near\\nHe also sent his card. enough, threw a line to me and\\nsent a bottle of wine across\\nslung by the neck, and very good wine it was. He\\nalso sent his card, which bore the name of Juan\\nGrantes. I think he was a good man, as Spaniards", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "WORDS WITH THE CAPTAIN OF THE JAVA 29\\ngo. But when I asked him to report me all well\\n(the Spray passing him in a lively manner), he\\nhauled his shoulders much above his head; and\\nwhen his mate, who knew of my expedition, told\\nhim that I was alone, he crossed himself and made\\nfor his cabin. I did not see him again. By sun-\\ndown he was as far astern as he had been ahead\\nthe evening before.\\nThere was now less and less monotony. On July\\n16 the wind was northwest and clear, the sea\\nsmooth, and a large bark, hull down, came in sight\\non the lee bow, and at 2:30 p.m. I spoke the\\nstranger. She was the bark Java of Glasgow, from\\nPeru for Queenstown for orders. Her old captain\\nwas bearish, but I met a bear once in Alaska that\\nlooked pleasanter. At least, the bear seemed\\npleased to meet me, but this grizzly old man\\nWell, I suppose my hail disturbed his siesta, and\\nmy little sloop passing his great ship had some-\\nwhat the effect on him that a red rag has upon a\\nbull. I had the advantage over heavy ships, by\\nlong odds, in the light winds of this and the two\\nprevious days. The wind was light his ship was\\nheavy and foul, making poor headway, while the\\nSpray with a great mainsail bellying even to light\\nwinds, was just skipping along as nimbly as one\\ncould wish. How long has it been calm about\\nhere roared the captain of the Java, as I came\\nwithin hail of him. Dunno, cap n, I shouted\\nback as loud as I could bawl. I have n t been\\nhere long. At this the mate on the forecastle\\nwore a broad grin. I left Cape Sable fourteen\\ndays ago, I added. (I was now well across toward", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "THE CRUISER OLTMPIA SPOKEN\\nthe Azores.) Mate, he I oared to his chief officer\\nmate, come here and listen to the Yankee s\\nyarn. Haul do^rn the flag, mate, haul down the\\nflag! In the best of humor, after all, the Java\\nsurrendered to the Spray.\\nThe acute pain of solitude experienced at first\\nnever returned. I had penetrated a mystery, and,\\nby the way, I had sailed through a fog. I had met\\nNeptune in his wrath, but he found that I had not\\ntreated him with contempt, and so he suffered me\\nto go on and explore.\\nIn the log for July 18 there is this entry Fine\\nweather, wind south-southwest. Porpoises gam-\\nboling all about. The S. S. Olympia passed at\\n11:30 A.M., long. W. 34\u00c2\u00b0 507\\nIt lacks now three minutes of the half -hour,\\nshouted the captain, as he gave me the longitude\\nand the time. I admired the businesslike air of the\\nOlympia but I have the feeling still that the cap-\\ntain was just a little too precise in his reckoning.\\nThat may be all well enough, however, where there\\nis plenty of sea-room. But over-confidence, I be-\\nlieve, was the cause of the disaster to the liner At-\\nlantic, and many more like her. The captain knew\\ntoo well where he was. There were no porpoises\\nat all skipping along with the Olympia Porpoises\\nalways prefer sailing-ships. The captain was a\\nyoung man, I observed, and had before him, I\\nhope, a good record.\\nLand ho On the morning of July 19 a mystic\\ndome like a mountain of silver stood alone in the\\nsea ahead. Although the land was completely\\nhidden by the white, glistening haze that shone in", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "32 SAILING ALONE AROUl^D THE WORLD\\nthe sun like polished silver, I felt quite sure that it\\nwas Flores Island. At half -past four p. m. it was\\nabeam. The haze in the meantime had disappeared.\\nFlores is one hundred and seventy-four miles from\\nFayal, and although it is a high island, it remained\\nmany years undiscovered after the principal group\\nof the islands had been colonized.\\nEarly on the morning of July 20 I saw Pico\\nlooming above the clouds on the starboard bow.\\nLower lands burst forth as the sun burned away\\nThe island of Pico.\\nthe morning fog, and island after island came into\\nview. As I approached nearer, cultivated fields\\nappeared, and oh, how green the corn Only\\nthose who have seen the Azores from the deck of a\\nvessel realize the beauty of the mid-ocean picture.\\nAt 4:30 p. M. I cast anchor at Fayal, exactly\\neighteen days from Cape Sable. The American\\nconsul, in a smart boat, came alongside before\\nthe Spray reached the breakwater, and a young\\nnaval of cer, who feared for the safety of my ves-\\nsel, boarded, and offered his services as pilot. The\\nyoungster, I have no good reason to doubt, could\\nhave handled a man-of-war, but the Spray was too\\nsmall for the amount of uniform he wore. How-\\never, after fouling all the craft iu port and sinking\\na lighter, she was moored without much damage to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "AERIVAL AT THE AZORES 33\\nherself. This wonderful pilot expected a gratifica-\\ntion, I understood, but whether for the reason that\\nhis government, and not I, would have to pay the\\ncost of raising the lighter, or because he did not\\nsink the Spray, I could never make out. But I\\nforgive him.\\nIt was the season for fruit when I arrived at the\\nAzores, and there was soon more of all kinds of it\\nput on board than I knew what to do with. Isl-\\nanders are always the kindest people in the world,\\nand I met none anywhere kinder than the good\\nhearts of this place. The people of the Azores are\\nnot a very rich community. The burden of taxes\\nis heavy, with scant privileges in return, the air\\nthey breathe being about the only thing that is not\\ntaxed. The mother-country does not even allow\\nthem a port of entry for a foreign mail service. A\\npacket passing never so close with mails for Horta\\nmust deliver them first in Lisbon, ostensibly to be\\nfumigated, but really for the tariff from the packet.\\nMy own letters posted at Horta reached the United\\nStates six days behind my letter from Gibraltar,\\nmailed thirteen days later.\\nThe day after my arrival at Horta was the feast\\nof a great saint. Boats loaded with people came\\nfrom other islands to celebrate at Horta, the capi-\\ntal, or Jerusalem, of the Azores. The deck of the\\nSpray was crowded from morning till night with\\nmen, women, and children. On the day after the\\nfeast a kind-hearted native harnessed a team and\\ndrove me a day over the beautiful roads all about\\nFayal, because, said he, in broken English,\\nwhen I was in America and could n t speak a", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "34 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nword of English, I found it hard till I met some one\\nwho seemed to have time to listen to my story, and\\nI promised my good saint then that if ever a\\nstranger came to my country I would try to make\\nhim happy. Unfortunately, this gentleman brought\\nalong an interpreter, that I might learn more of\\nthe country. The fellow was nearly the death of\\nme, talking of ships and voyages, and of the boats\\nhe had steered, the last thing in the world I wished\\nto hear. He had sailed out of New Bedford, so he\\nsaid, for that Joe Wing they call John. My\\nfriend and host found hardly a chance to edge in a\\nword. Before we parted my host dined me with\\na cheer that would have gladdened the heart of a\\nprince, but he was quite alone in his house. My\\nwife and children all rest there, said he, pointing\\nto the churchyard across the way. I moved to\\nthis house from far off, he added, to be near the\\nspot, where I pray every morning.\\nI remained four days at Fayal, and that was two\\ndays more than I had intended to stay. It was the\\nkindness of the islanders and their touching sim-\\nplicity which detained me. A damsel, as innocent\\nas an angel, came alongside one day, and said she\\nwould embark on the Spray if I would land her at\\nLisbon. She could cook flying-fish, she thought,\\nbut her forte was dressing hacalhao. Her brother\\nAntonio, who served as interpreter, hinted that,\\nanyhow, he would like to make the trip. Antonio s\\nheart went out to one John Wilson, and he was\\nready to sail for America by way of the two capes\\nto meet his friend. Do you know John Wilson\\nof Boston he cried. I knew a John Wilson, I", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "Chart of the Spray s Atlantic voyages from Boston to Gibraltar,\\nthence to the Strait of Magellan, in 1895, and finally home-\\nward bound from the Cape of Good Hope in 1898.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "36 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsaid, but not of Boston. He had one daughter\\nand one son, said Antonio, by way of identifying\\nhis friend. If this reaches the right John Wilson,\\nI am told to say that Antonio of Pico remembers\\nhim.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "CHAPTEE IV\\nSqually weather in the Azores High living Delirious from cheese\\nand plums The pilot of the Pinta At Gribraltar Compliments\\nexchanged with the British navy A picnic on the Morocco\\nshore.\\nI SET sail from Horta early on July 24. The south-\\nwest wind at the time was light, but squalls came\\nup with the sun, and I was glad enough to get reefs\\nin my sails before I had gone a mile. I had hardly\\nset the mainsail, double-reefed, when a squall of wind\\ndown the mountains struck the sloop with such\\nviolence that I thought her mast would go. How-\\never, a quick helm brought her to the wind. As it\\nwas, one of the weather lanyards was carried away\\nand the other was stranded. My tin basin, caught\\nup by the wind, went flying across a French school-\\nship to leeward. It was more or less squally all\\nday, sailing along under high land; but rounding\\nclose under a bluff, I found an opportunity to mend\\nthe lanyards broken in the squall. No sooner had\\nI lowered my sails when a four-oared boat shot out\\nfrom some gully in the rocks, with a customs officer\\non board, who thought he had come upon a smug-\\ngler. I had some difficulty in making him compre-\\nhend the true case. However, one of his crew, a\\nsailorly chap, who understood how matters were,\\nwhile we palavered jumped on board and rove off", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "38 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nthe new lanyards I had already prepared, and with\\na friendly hand helped me set np the rigging.\\nThis incident gave the turn in my favor. My story\\nwas then clear to all. I have found this the way\\nof the world. Let one be without a friend, and see\\nwhat will happen\\nPassing the island of Pico, after the rigging was\\nmended, the Spray stretched across to leeward of\\nthe island of St. Michael s, which she was up with\\nearly on the morning of July 26, the wind blowing\\nhard. Later in the day she passed the Prince of\\nMonaco s fine steam-yacht bound to Fayal, where,\\non a previous voyage, the prince had slipped his\\ncables to escape a reception which the padres of\\nthe island wished to give him. Why he so dreaded\\nthe ovation I could not make out. At Horta\\nthey did not know. Since reaching the islands I\\nhad lived most luxuriously on fresh bread, butter,\\nvegetables, and fruits of all kinds. Plums seemed\\nthe most plentiful on the Spray, and these I ate\\nwithout stint. I had also a Pico white cheese that\\nGreneral Manning, the American consul-general,\\nhad given me, which I supposed was to be eaten,\\nand of this I partook with the plums. Alas by\\nnight-time I was doubled up with cramps. The\\nwind, which was already a smart breeze, was in-\\ncreasing somewhat, with a heavy sky to the sou\\nwest. Reefs had been turned out, and I must turn\\nthem in again somehow. Between cramps I got\\nthe mainsail down, hauled out the earings as best I\\ncould, and tied awaj^ point by point, in the double\\nreef. There being sea-room, I should, in strict pru-\\ndence, have made all snug and gone down at once", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "DELIRIOUS FROM CHEESE AND PLUMS 39\\nto my cabin. I am a careful man at sea, but this\\nnight, in the coming storm, I swayed up my sails,\\nwhich, reefed though they were, were still too much\\nin such heavy weather and I saw to it that the\\nsheets were securely belayed. In a word, I should\\nhave laid to, but did not. I gave her the double-\\nreefed mainsail and whole jib instead, and set her\\non her course. Then I went below, and threw my-\\nself upon the cabin floor in great pain. How long\\nI lay there I could not tell, for I became delirious.\\nWhen I came to, as I thotight, from my swoon, I\\nrealized that the sloop was plunging into a heavy\\nsea, and looking out of the companionway, to my\\namazement I saw a tall man at the helm. His\\nrigid hand, grasping the spokes of the wheel, held\\nthem as in a vise. One may imagine my astonish-\\nment. His rig was that of a foreign sailor, and the\\nlarge red cap he wore was cockbilled ovar his left\\near, and all was set off with shaggy black whiskers.\\nHe would have been taken for a pirate in any part\\nof the world. While I gazed upon his threatening\\naspect I forgot the storm, and wondered if he had\\ncome to cut my throat. This he seemed to divine.\\nSenor, said he, doffing his cap, I have come to\\ndo you no harm. And a smile, the faintest in the\\nworld, but still a smile, played on his face, which\\nseemed not unkind when he spoke. I have come\\nto do you no harm. I have sailed free, he said,\\nbut was never worse than a contrahandista. I am\\none of Columbus s crew, he continued. I am the\\npilot of the Pinta come to aid you. Lie quiet,\\nsenOr captain, he added, and I will guide your\\nship to-night. You have a calentura, but you will", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "40\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nbe all right to-morrow. I thought what a very\\ndevil he was to carry sail. Again, as if he read my\\nmind, he exclaimed Yonder is the Pinta ahead\\nThe apparition at the wheel.\\nwe must overtake her. Give her sail; give her\\nsail Vale, vale, muy vale Biting off a large quid\\nof black twist, he said: You did wrong, captain,\\nto mix cheese with plums. White cheese is never", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "THE PILOT OF THE PINT A 41\\nsafe unless you know whence it comes. Quien sabe,\\nit may have been from leche de Capra and becoming\\ncapricious\\nAvast, there I cried. I have no mind for\\nmoralizing.\\nI made shift to spread a mattress and lie on that\\ninstead of the hard floor, my eyes all the while\\nfastened on my strange guest, who, remarking\\nagain that I would have only pains and calen-\\ntura, chuckled as he chanted a wild song:\\nHigh are the waves, fierce, gleaming,\\nHigh is the tempest roar\\nHigh the sea-bird screaming\\nHigh the Azore\\nI suppose I was now on the mend, for I was pee-\\nvish, and complained I detest your jingle. Your\\nAzore should be at roost, and would have been\\nwere it a respectable bird I begged he would tie\\na rope-yarn on the rest of the song, if there was any\\nmore of it. I was still in agony. Great seas were\\nboarding the Spray^ but in my fevered brain I\\nthought they were boats falling on deck, that care-\\nless draymen were throwing from wagons on the\\npier to which I imagined the Spray was now moored,\\nand without fenders to breast her off. You 11\\nsmash your boats I called out again and again,\\nas the seas crashed on the cabin over my head.\\nYou 11 smash your boats, but you can t hurt the\\nSpray. She is strong I cried.\\nI found, when my pains and calentura had gone,\\nthat the deck, now as white as a shark s tooth from\\nseas washing over it, had been swept of every-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "42 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nthing movable. To my astonishment, I saw now\\nat broad day that the Spray was still heading as I\\nhad left her, and was going like a race-horse.\\nColumbus himself could not have held her more\\nexactly on her course. The sloop had made ninety\\nmiles in the night through a rough sea. I felt\\ngrateful to the old pilot, but I marveled some that\\nhe had not taken in the jib. The gale was moder-\\nating, and by noon the sun was shining. A merid-\\nian altitude and the distance on the patent log,\\nwhich I always kept towing, told me that she had\\nmade a true course throughout the twenty-four\\nhours. I was getting much better now, but was\\nvery weak, and did not turn out reefs that day or\\nthe night following, although the wind fell light\\nbut I just put my wet clothes out in the sun when\\nit was shining, and lying down there myself, fell\\nasleep. Then who should visit me again but my\\nold friend of the night before, this time, of course,\\nin a dream. You did well last night to take my\\nadvice, said he, and if you would, I should like\\nto be with you often on the voyage, for the love\\nof adventure alone. Finishing what he had to\\nsay, he again doffed his cap and disappeared as\\nmysteriously as he came, returning, I suppose, to\\nthe phantom Pinta. I awoke much refreshed, and\\nwith the feeling that I had been in the presence of\\na friend and a seaman of vast experience. I gath-\\nered up my clothes, which by this time were dry,\\nthen, by inspiration, I threw overboard all the\\nplums in the vessel.\\nJuly 28 was exceptionally fine. The wind from\\nthe northwest was light and the an* balmy. I over-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "HIGH LIVING 43\\nhauled my wardrobe, and bent on a white shirt\\nagainst nearing some coasting-packet with genteel\\nfolk on board. I also did some washing to get the\\nsalt out of my clothes. After it all I was hungry,\\nso I made a fire and very cautiously stewed a dish\\nof pears and set them carefully aside till I had made\\na pot of delicious coffee, for both of which I could\\nafford sugar and cream. But the crowning dish of all\\nwas a fish-hash, and there was enough of it for two.\\nI was in good health again, and my appetite was\\nsimply ravenous. While I was dining I had a large\\nonion over the double lamp stewing for a luncheon\\nlater in the day. High living to-day\\nIn the afternoon the Spray came upon a large\\nturtle asleep on the sea. He awoke with my har-\\npoon through his neck, if he awoke at all. I had\\nmuch difficulty in landing him on deck, which I\\nfinally accomplished by hooking the throat-halyards\\nto one of his fiippers, for he was about as heavy as\\nmy boat. I saw more turtles, and I rigged a bur-\\nton ready with which to hoist them in for I was\\nobliged to lower the mainsail whenever the halyards\\nwere used for such purposes, and it was no small\\nmatter to hoist the large sail again. But the turtle-\\nsteak was good. I found no fault with the cook,\\nand it was the rule of the voyage that the cook\\nfound no fault with me. There was never a ship s\\ncrew so well agreed. The bill of fare that evening\\nwas turtle-steak, tea and toast, fried potatoes, stewed\\nonions; with dessert of stewed pears and cream.\\nSometime in the afternoon I passed a barrel-\\nbuoy adrift, floating light on the water. It was\\npainted red, and rigged with a signal-staff about", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "44 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsix feet high. A sudden change in the weather\\ncoming on, I got no more turtle or fish of any sort\\nbefore reaching port. July 31 a gale sprang up\\nsuddenly from the north, with heavy seas, and I\\nshortened sail. The Spray made only fifty-one\\nmiles on her course that day. August 1 the gale\\ncontinued, with heavy seas. Through the night\\nthe sloop was reaching, under close-reefed main-\\nsail and bobbed jib. At 3 p. m. the jib was washed\\noff the bowsprit and blown to rags and ribbons.\\nI bent the jumbo on a stay at the night-heads.\\nAs for the jib, let it go I saved pieces of it, and,\\nafter all, I was in want of pot-rags.\\nOn August 3 the gale broke, and I saw many\\nsigns of land. Bad weather having made itself\\nfelt in the galley, I was minded to try my hand at\\na loaf of bread, and so rigging a pot of fire on deck\\nby which to bake it, a loaf soon became an accom-\\nplished fact. One great feature about ship s cook-\\ning is that one s appetite on the sea is always good\\na fact that I realized when I cooked for the\\ncrew of fishermen in the before-mentioned boyhood\\ndays. Dinner being over, I sat for hours reading\\nthe life of Columbus, and as the day wore on I\\nwatched the birds all flying in one direction, and\\nsaid, Land lies there.\\nEarly the next morning, August 4, I discovered\\nSpain. I saw fires on shore, and knew that the\\ncountry was inhabited. The Spray continued on\\nher course till well in with the land, which was\\nthat about Trafalgar. Then keeping away a point,\\nshe passed through the Strait of Gibraltar, where\\nshe cast anchor at 3 p. m. of the same day, less", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "AT GIBEALTAR 45\\nthan twenty-nine days from Cape Sable. At the\\nfinish of this preliminary trip I found myself in\\nexcellent health, not overworked or cramped, but\\nas well as ever in my life, though I was as thin as\\na reef -point.\\nTwo Italian barks, which had been close along-\\niiv-\\nComing to anchor at Gibraltar.\\nside at daylight, I saw long after I had anchored,\\npassing up the African side of the strait. The\\nSpray had sailed them both hull down before she\\nreached Tarifa. go far as I know, the Spray beat\\neverything going across the Atlantic except the\\nsteamers.\\nAll was well, but I had forgotten to bring a bill", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "46 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nof health from Horta, and so when the fierce old\\nport doctor came to inspect there was a row. That,\\nhowever, was the very thing needed. If you want\\nto get on well with a true Britisher you must first\\nhave a deuce of a row with him. I knew that well\\nenough, and so I fired away, shot for shot, as best\\nI could. Well, yes, the doctor admitted at last,\\nyour crew are healthy enough, no doubt, but who\\nknows the diseases of your last port a reason-\\nable enough remark. We ought to put you in\\nthe fort, sir! he blustered; but never mind.\\nFree pratique, sir Shove off, cockswain And\\nthat was the last I saw of the port doctor.\\nBut on the following morning a steam-launch,\\nmuch longer than the Spray came alongside, or\\nas much of her as could get alongside, with com-\\npliments from the senior naval officer. Admiral\\nBruce, sa^dng there was a berth for the Spray at\\nthe arsenal. This was around at the new mole.\\nI had anchored at the old mole, among the native\\ncraft, where it was rough and uncomfortable. Of\\ncourse I was glad to shift, and did so as soon as\\npossible, thinking of the great company the Spray\\nwould be in among battle-ships such as the Colling-\\nwood, BaJfleur, and Cormorant, which were at that\\ntime stationed there, and on board all of which I\\nwas entertained, later, most royally.\\nPut it thar as the Americans say, was the\\nsalute I got from Admiral Bruce, when I called at\\nthe admiralty to thank him for his courtesy of\\nthe berth, and for the use of the steam-launch\\nwhich towed me into dock. About the berth,\\nit is all right if it suits, and we 11 tow you out", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "COMPLIMENTS EXCHANGED\\n47\\nwhen you are ready to go. But, say, what repairs\\ndo you want 1 Ahoy the Hehe, can you spare your\\nsailmaker? The Spray wants a new jib. Con-\\nstruction and repair, there will you see to the\\nSpray f Say, old man, you must have knocked\\nthe devil out of her coming over alone in twenty-\\nThe Spray at anchor off Gibraltar.\\nnine days But we 11 make it smooth for you\\nhere Not even her Majesty s ship the Colling-\\nwood was better looked after than the Spray at\\nGibraltar.\\nLater in the day came the hail Spray ahoy\\nMrs. Bruce would like to come on board and\\nshake hands with the Spray. Will it be con-\\nvenient to-day? Very! I joyfully shouted.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "48 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nOn the following day Sir F. Carrington, at the\\ntime governor of Gribraltar, with other high officers\\nof the garrison, and all the commanders of the\\nbattle-ships, came on board and signed their names\\nin the Spray^s log-book. Again there was a hail,\\nSpray ahoy Hello Commander Eeynolds s\\ncompliments. You are invited on board H. M. S.\\nCollingivood, at home at 4:30 p.m. Not later\\nthan 5 30 p. m. I had already hinted at the lim-\\nited amount of my wardrobe, and that I could\\nnever succeed as a dude. You are expected, sir,\\nin a stovepipe hat and a claw-hammer coat\\nThen I can t come. Dash it come in what\\nyou have on that is what we mean. Aye, aye,\\nsir The Collingwood^s cheer was good, and had\\nI worn a silk hat as high as the moon I could\\nnot have had a better time or been made more\\nat home. An Englishman, even on his great\\nbattle-ship, unbends when the stranger passes\\nhis gangway, and when he says at home he\\nmeans it.\\nThat one should like Gribraltar would go without\\nsaying. How could one help loving so hospitable\\na place Vegetables twice a week and milk every\\nmorning came from the palatial grounds of the\\nadmiralty. Spray ahoy would hail the admiral.\\nSpray ahoy Hello To-morrow is your\\nvegetable day, sir. Aye, aye, sir\\nI rambled much about the old city, and a gunner\\npiloted me through the galleries of the rock as far\\nas a stranger is permitted to go. There is no ex-\\ncavation in the world, for military purposes, at all\\napproaching these of Gibraltar in conception or\\nexecution. Viewing the stupendous works, it be-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "A PICNIC ON THE MOEOCCO SHOEE 49\\ncame hard to realize that olie was within the Grib-\\nraltar of his little old Morse geography.\\nBefore sailing I was invited on a picnic with the\\ngovernor, the officers of the garrison, and the com-\\nmanders of the war-ships at the station; and a\\nroyal affair it was. Torpedo-boat No. 91, going\\ntwenty-two knots, carried our party to the Morocco\\nshore and back. The day was perfect too fine,\\nin fact, for comfort on shore, and so no one landed at\\nMorocco. No. 91 trembled like an aspen-leaf as she\\nraced through the sea at top speed/ Sublieutenant\\nBoucher, apparently a mere lad, was in command,\\nand handled his ship with the skill of an older sailor.\\nOn the following day I lunched with General Car-\\nrington, the governor, at Line Wall House, which\\nwas once the Franciscan convent. In this interest-\\ning edifice are preserved relics of the fourteen sieges\\nwhich Gribraltar has se^n. On the next day I supped\\nwith the admiral at his residence, the palace, which\\nwas once the convent of the Mercenaries. At each\\nplace, and all about, I felt the friendly grasp of^ a\\nmanly hand,/that lent me vital strength to pass the\\ncoming long days at sea. I must confess that the\\nperfect discipline, order, and cheerfulness at Gib-\\nraltar were only a second wonder in the great\\nstronghold. The vast amount of business going\\nforward caused no more excitement than the quiet\\nsailing of a well-appointed ship in a smooth sea.\\nNo one spoke above his natural voice, save a\\nboatswain s mate now and then. The Hon. Horatio\\nJ. Sprague, the venerable United States consul at\\nGibraltar, honored the Spray with a visit on Sun-\\nday, August 24, and was much pleased to find that\\nour British cousins had been so kind to her.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V\\nSailing from Gibraltar witK the assistance of her Majesty s tug\\nThe Spray s course changed from the Suez Canal to Cape Horn\\nChased by a Moorish pirate A comparison with Columbus\\nThe Canary Islands The Cape Verde Islands Sea life Arrival\\nat Pernambuco A bill against the Brazilian government Pre-\\nparing for the stormy weather of the cape.\\nMONDAY, August 25, the Spray sailed from Grib-\\nraltar, well repaid for whatever deviation she\\nhad made from a direct course to reach the place.\\nA tug belonging to her Majesty towed the sloop into\\nthe steady breeze clear of the mount, where her sails\\ncaught a volant wind, which carried her once more\\nto the Atlantic, where it rose rapidly to a furious\\ngale. My plan was, in going down this coast, to\\nhaul offshore, well clear of the land, which here-\\nabouts is the home of pirates; but I had hardly\\naccomplished this when I perceived a felucca\\nmaking out of the nearest port, and finally follow-\\ning in the wake of the Spray. Now, my course\\nto Gribraltar had been taken with a view to proceed\\nup the Mediterranean Sea, through the Suez Canal,\\ndown the Red Sea, and east about, instead of a\\nwestern route, which I finally adopted. By officers\\nof vast experience in navigating these seas, I was\\ninfluenced to make the change. Longshore pirates\\non both coasts being numerous, I could not afford", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "SAILING FROM GIBRALTAR 51\\nto make light of the advice. But here I was, after\\nall, evidently in the midst of pirates and thieves\\nI changed my course; the felucca did the same,\\nboth vessels sailing very fast, but the distance\\ngrowing less and less between us. The Spray\\nwas doing nobly she was f^yen more than at her\\nbest; but, in spite of all I could do, she would\\nbroach now and then. She w?\u00c2\u00bbs carrying too much\\nsail for safety. I must reef or be dismasted and\\nlose all, pirate or no pirate. I must reef, even if I\\nhad to grapple with him for my life.\\nI was not long in reefing the mainsail and sweat-\\ning it up probably not more than fifteen min-\\nutes; but the felucca had in the meantime so\\nshortened the distance between us that I now saw\\nthe tuft of hair on the heads of the crew, by which,\\nit is said, Mohammed will pull the villains up into\\nheaven, and they were coming on like the wind.\\nFrom what I could clearly make out now, I felt\\nthem to be the sons of generations of pirates, and I\\nsaw by their movements that they were now pre-\\nparing to strike a blow. The exultation on their\\nfaces, however, was changed in an instant to a look\\nof fear and rage. Their craft, with too much sail\\non, broached to on the crest of a great wave.\\nThis one great sea changed the aspect of affairs\\nsuddenly as the flash of a gun. Three minutes\\nlater the same wave overtook the Spray and shook\\nher in every timber. At the same moment the\\nsheet-strop parted, and away went the main-boom,\\nbroken short at the rigging. Impulsively I sprang\\nto the jib-halyards and down-haul, and instantly\\ndowned the jib. The head-sail being off, and the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "52 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nhelm put hard down, the sloop came in the wind\\nwith a bound. While shivering there, but a mo-\\nment though it was, I got the mainsail down and se-\\ncured inboard, broken boom and all. How I got the\\nboom in before the sail was torn I hardly know\\nbut not a stitch of it was broken. The mainsail\\nbeing secured, I hoisted away the jib, and, without\\nlooking round, stepped quickly to the cabin and\\nsnatched down my loaded rifle and cartridges at\\nhand for I made mental calculations that the\\npirate would by this time have recovered his course\\nand be close, aboard, and that when I saw him it\\nwould be better for me to be looking at him along\\nthe barrel of a gun. The piece was at my shoulder\\nwhen I peered into the mist, but there was no\\npirate within a mile. The wave and squall that\\ncarried away my boom dismasted the felucca out-\\nright. I perceived his thieving crew, some dozen\\nor more of them, struggling to recover their rigging\\nfrom the sea. Allah blacken their faces\\nI sailed comfortably on under the jib and fore-\\nstaysail, which I now set. I fished the boom and\\nfurled the sail snug for the night; then hauled\\nthe sloop s head two points offshore to allow for\\nthe set of current and heavy rollers toward the\\nland. This gave me the wind three points on the\\nstarboard quarter and a steady pull in the headsails.\\nBy the time I had things in this order it was dark,\\nand a flying-fish had already fallen on deck. I\\ntook him below for my supper, but found myself too\\ntired to cook, or even to eat a thing already pre-\\npared. I do not remember to have been more tired\\nbefore or since in all my life than I was at the fin-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "CHASED BY A MOOEISH PIRATE\\n55\\nish of that day. Too fatigued to sleep, I rolled about\\nwith the motion of the vessel till near midnight,\\nwhen I made shift to dress my fish and prepare a\\ndish of tea. I fully realized now, if I had not be-\\nfore, that the voyage ahead would call for exertions\\nardent and lasting. On August 27 nothing could\\nbe seen of the Moor, or his country either, except\\nChased by pirates.\\ntwo peaks, away in the east through the clear at-\\nmosphere of morning. Soon after the sun rose\\neven these were obscured by haze, much to my\\nsatisfaction.\\nThe wind, for a few days following my escape\\nfrom the pirates, blew a steady but moderate gale,\\nand the sea, though agitated into long rollers, was\\nnot uncomfortably rough or dangerous, and while\\nsitting in my cabin I could hardly realize that any", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "52\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsea was running at all, so easy was the long, swing-\\ning motion of the sloop over the waves. All dis-\\ntracting uneasiness and excitement being now over,\\nI was once more alone with myself in the realiza-\\ntion that I was on the mighty sea and in the hands\\nof the elements. But I was happy, and was be-\\ncoming more and more interested in the voyage.\\nColumbus, in the Santa Maria, sailing these seas\\nmore than four hundred years before, was not so\\nhappy as I, nor so sure of success in what he had\\nundertaken. His first troubles at sea had already\\nbegun. His crew had managed, by foul play or\\notherwise, to break the ship s rudder while running\\nbefore probably just such a gale as the Spray had\\npassed through and there was dissension on the\\nSanta Maria, something that was unknown on the\\nSpray.\\nAfter three days of squalls and shifting winds I\\nthrew myself down to rest and sleep, while, with\\nhelm lashed, the sloop sailed steadily on her course.\\nSeptember 1, in the early morning, land-clouds\\nrising ahead told of the Canary Islands not far\\naway. A change in the weather came next day:\\nstorm-clouds stretched their arms across the sky\\nfrom the east, to all appearances, might come a\\nfierce harmattan, or from the south might come the\\nfierce hurricane. Every point of the compass\\nthreatened a wild storm. My attention was turned\\nto reefing sails, and no time was to be lost over it,\\neither, for the sea in a moment was confusion\\nitself, and I was glad to head the sloop three points\\nor more away from her true course that she might\\nride safely over the waves. I was now scudding", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS 55\\nher for the channel between Africa and the island\\nof Fuerte Ventura, the easternmost of the Canary\\nIslands, for which I was on the lookout. At 2 p. m.,\\nthe weather becoming suddenly fine, the island\\nstood in view, already abeam to starboard, and\\nnot more than seven miles off. Fu.erteventura\\nis twenty-seven hundred feet high, and in fine\\nweather is visible many leagues away.\\nThe wind freshened in the night, and the Spray\\nhad a fine run through the channel. By daylight,\\nSeptember 3, she was twenty-five miles clear of all\\nthe islands, when a calm ensued, which was the\\nprecursor of another gale of wind that soon came\\non, bringing with it dust from the African shore.\\nIt howled dismally while it lasted, and though it\\nwas not the season of the harmattan, the sea in the\\ncourse of an hour was discolored with a reddish-\\nbrown dust. The air remained thick with flying\\ndust all the afternoon, but the wind, veering north-\\nwest at night, swept it back to land, and afforded\\nthe Spray once more a clear sky. Her mast now\\nbent under a strong, steady pressure, and her belly-\\ning sail swept the sea as she rolled scuppers under,\\ncourtesying to the waves. These rolling waves\\nthrilled me as they tossed my ship, passing quickly\\nunder her keel. This was grand sailing.\\nSeptember 4, the wind, still fresh, blew from the\\nnorth-northeast, and the sea surged along with the\\nsloop. About noon a steamship, a buUock-droger,\\nfrom the river Plate hove in sight, steering north-\\neast, and making bad weather of it. I signaled her,\\nbut got no answer. She was plunging into the\\nhead sea and rolling in a most astonishing manner,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "56 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nand from the way she yawed one might have said\\nthat a wild steer was at the helm.\\nOn the morning of September 6 I found three\\nflying-fish on deck, and a fourth one down the\\nfore-scuttle as close as possible to the .frying-pan.\\nIt was the best haul yet, and afforded me a sump-\\ntuous breakfast and dinner.\\nThe Spray had now settled down to the trade-\\nwinds and to the business of her voyage. Later\\nin the day another droger hove in sight, rolling\\nas badly as her predecessor. I threw out no\\nflag to this one, but got the worst of it for pass-\\ning under her lee. She was, indeed, a stale one\\nAnd the poor cattle, how they bellowed! The\\ntime was when ships passing one another at sea\\nbacked their topsails and had a gam, and on\\nparting fired guns but those good old days have\\ngone. People have hardly time nowadays to speak\\neven on the broad ocean, where news is news, and\\nas for a salute of guns, they cannot afford the\\npowder. There are no poetry-enshrined freighters\\non the sea now it is a prosy life when we have no\\ntime to bid one another good morning.\\nMy ship, running now in the full swing of the\\ntrades, left me days to myself for rest and recu-\\nperation. I employed the time in reading and\\nwriting, or in whatever I found to do about the\\nrigging and the sails to keep them all in order.\\nThe cooking was always done quickly, and was a\\nsmall matter, as the bill of fare consisted mostly of\\nflying-fish, hot biscuits and butter, potatoes, coffee\\nand cream dishes readily prepared.\\nOn September 10 the Spray passed the island of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS 57\\nSt. Antonio, the northwesternmost of the Cape\\nVerdes, close aboard. The landfall was wonder-\\nfully true, considering that no observations for\\nlongitude had been made. The wind, northeast,\\nas the sloop drew by the island, was very squally,\\nbut I reefed her sails snug, and steered broad from\\nthe highland of blustering St. Antonio. Then\\nleaving the Cape Verde Islands out of sight astern,\\nI found myself once more sailing a lonely sea and\\nin a solitude supreme all around. When I slept\\nI dreamed that I was alone. This feeling never\\nleft me but, sleeping or waking, I seemed always\\nto know the position of the sloop, and I saw my\\nvessel moving across the chart, which became a\\npicture before me.\\nOne night while I sat in the cabin under this\\nspell, the profound stillness all about was broken\\nby human voices alongside I sprang instantly\\nto the deck, startled beyond my power to tell.\\nPassing close under lee, like an apparition, was\\na white bark under full sail. The sailors on board\\nof her were hauling on ropes to brace the yards,\\nwhich just cleared the sloop s mast as she swept\\nby. No one hailed from the white-winged flier,\\nbut I heard some one on board say that he saw\\nlights on the sloop, and that he made her out\\nto b^ a fisherman. I sat long on the starlit deck\\nthat night, thinking of ships, and watching the\\nconstellations on their voyage.\\nOn the following day, September 13, a large four-\\nmasted ship passed some distance to windward,\\nheading north.\\nThe sloop was now rapidly drawing toward the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "58 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nregion of doldrums, and the force of the trade-\\nwinds was lessening. I could see by the ripples\\nthat a counter-current had set in. This I esti-\\nmated to be about sixteen miles a day. In the\\nheart of the counter-stream the rate was more than\\nthat setting eastward.\\nSeptember 11 a lofty three-masted ship, heading\\nnorth, was seen from the masthead. Neither this\\nship nor the one seen yesterday was within signal\\ndistance, yet it was good even to see them. On\\nthe following day heaw^ rain-clouds rose in the\\nsouth, obscuring the sun; this was ominous of\\ndoldrums. On the 16th the Spray entered this\\ngloomy region, to battle with squalls and to be\\nharassed by fitful calms for this is the state of the\\nelements between the northeast and the southeast\\ntrades, where each wind, struggling in turn for\\nmastery, expends its force whirling about in all\\ndirections. Making this still more tr}i.ng to one s\\nnerve and patience, the sea was tossed into con-\\nfused cross-lumps and fretted by eddying currents.\\nAs if something more were needed to complete a\\nsailor s discomfort iu this state, the rain poured\\ndown in torrents day and night. The Spray strug-\\ngled and tossed for ten days, making only three\\nhundred miles on her course in all that time. I\\ndid n t say an^ thiug I\\nOn September 23 the fine schooner XanfasJcet\\nof Boston, from Bear- Eiver, for the river Plate,\\nlumber-laden, and just through the doldrums, came\\nup with the Spray^ and her captain passing a few\\nwords, she sailed on. Being much fouled on the\\nbottom by shell-fish, she drew along with her fishes", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "SEA LIFE 59\\nwhich had been following the Spray, which was\\nless provided with that sort of food. Fishes will\\nalways follow a foul ship. A barnacle-grown log\\nadrift has the same attraction for deep-sea fishes.\\nOne of this little school of deserters was a dolphin\\nthat had followed the Spray about a thousand\\nmiles, and had been content to eat scraps of food\\nthrown overboard from my table for, having been\\nwounded, it could not dart through the sea to prey\\non other fishes. I had become accustomed to see-\\ning the dolphin, which I knew by its scars, and\\nmissed it whenever it took occasional excursions\\naway from the sloop. One day, after it had been\\noff some hours, it returned in company with three\\nyellowtails, a sort of cousin to the dolphin. This\\nlittle school kept together, except when in danger\\nand when foraging about the sea. Their lives\\nwere often threatened by hungry sharks that came\\nround the vessel, and more than once they had\\nnarrow escapes. Their mode of escape interested\\nrne greatly, and I passed hours watching them.\\nThey would dart away, each in a different direc-\\ntion, so that the wolf of the sea, the shark, pursu-\\ning one, would be led away from the others then\\nafter a while they would all return and rendezvous\\nunder one side or the other of the sloOp. Twice\\ntheir pursuers were diverted by a tin pan, which I\\ntowed astern of the sloop, and which was mistaken\\nfor a bright fish and while turning, in the peculiar\\nway that sharks have when about to devour their\\nprey, I shot them through the head.\\nTheir precarious life seemed to concern the\\nyellowtails very little, if at all. All living beings,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "60 V SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nwithout doubt, are afraid of death. Neverthe-\\nless, some of the species I saw huddle together as\\nthough they knew they were created for the larger\\nfishes, and wished to give the least possible trouble\\nto their captors. I have seen, on the other hand,\\nwhales swimming in a circle around a school of\\nherrings, and with mighty exertion bunching\\nthem together in a whirlpool set in motion by their\\nflukes, and when the small fry were all whirled\\nnicely together, one or the other of the leviathans,\\nlunging through the center with open jaws, take in\\na boat-load or so at a single mouthful. Off the\\nCape of Grood Hope I saw schools of sardines or\\nother small fish being treated in this way by great\\nnumbers of cavally-fish. There was not the slightest\\nchance of escape for the sardines, while the cavally\\ncircled round and round, feeding from the edge of\\nthe mass. It was interesting to note how rapidly\\nthe small fry disappeared; and thoug-h it was re-\\npeated before my eyes over and over, I could hardly\\nperceive the capture of a single sardine, so dexter-\\nously was it done.\\nAlong the equatorial limit of the southeast trade-\\nwinds the air was heavily charged with electricity,\\nand there was much thunder and lightning. It was\\nhereabout I remembered that, a few years before,\\nthe American ship Alert was destroyed by hghtning.\\nHer people, by wonderful good fortune, were res-\\ncued on the same day and brought to Pernambuco,\\nwhere I then met them.\\nOn September 25, in the latitude of 5\u00c2\u00b0 N., longi-\\ntude 26\u00c2\u00b0 30 W., I spoke the ship North Star of\\nLondon. The great ship was out forty-eight days", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "AERIVAL AT PEENAMBUCO 61\\nfrom Norfolk, Virginia, and was bound for Rio,\\nwhere we met again about two months later. The\\nSpray was now thirty days from Gribraltar.\\nThe Spray^s next companion of the voyage was\\na swordfish, that swam alongside, showing its tall\\nfin out of the water, till I made a stir for my har-\\npoon, when it hauled its black flag down and dis-\\nappeared. September 30, at half -past eleven in the\\nmorning, the Spray crossed the equator in longitude\\n29\u00c2\u00b0 30 W. At noon she was two miles south of\\nthe line. The southeast trade-winds, met, rather\\nlight, in about 4\u00c2\u00b0 N., gave her sails now a stiff full\\nsending her handsomely over the sea toward the\\ncoast of Brazil, where on October 5, just north of\\nOlinda Point, without further incident, she made\\nthe land, casting anchor in Pernambuco harbor\\nabout noon: forty days from Gribraltar, and all\\nwell on board. Did I tire of the voyage in all\\nthat time Not a bit of it I was never in better\\ntrim in all my life, and was eager for the more\\nperilous experience of rounding the Horn.\\nIt was not at all strange in a life common to\\nsailors that, having already crossed the Atlantic\\ntwice and being now half-way from Boston to the\\nHorn, I should find myself still among friends. My\\ndetermination to sail westward from Gribraltar not\\nonly enabled me to escape the pirates of the Red\\nSea, but, in bringing me to Pernambuco, landed\\nme on familiar shores. I had made many voyages\\nto this and other ports in Brazil. In 1893 I was\\nemployed as master to take the famous Ericsson\\nship Destroyer from New York to Brazil to go\\nagainst the rebel Mello and his party. The De-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "62 SAILING ALONE AEOL^T) THE WORLD\\nstroyer, by the ^aj, carried a submarine cannon of\\nenormous length.\\nIn the same expedition went the Xidheroy, the\\nship purchased by the United States govern-\\nment during the Spanish war and renamed the\\nBuffalo. The Destroyer was in many ways the\\nbetter ship of the two, but the Brazilians in their\\ncurious war sank her themselves at Bahia. With\\nher sank my hope of recovering wages due me\\nstill, I could but try to recover, for to me it meant\\na gi eat deal. But now within two years the whirli-\\ngig of time had brought the Mello party into power,\\nand although it was the legal government which\\nhad employed me, the so-called rebels felt under\\nless obligation to me than I could have wished.\\nDuring these visits to Brazil I had made the\\nacquaintance of Dr. Perera, owner and editor of\\nEl Commercio Jornal, and soon after the Spray\\nwas safely moored in Upper Topsail Reach, the\\ndoctor, who is a very enthusiastic yachtsman, came\\nto pay me a visit and to carry me up the waterway\\nof the lagoon to his country residence. The ap-\\nproach to his mansion by the waterside was guarded\\nby his armada, a fleet of boats including a Chinese\\nsampan, a Norwegian pram_, and a Cape Ann dory,\\nthe last of which he obtained from the Destroyer.\\nThe doctor dined me often on good Brazilian fare,\\nthat I might, as he said, salle gordo for the\\nvoyage; but he found that even on the best I\\nfattened slowly.\\nFruits and vegetables and all other provisions\\nnecessary for the voyage having been taken in, on\\nthe 23d of October I unmoored and made ready", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "A BILL AGAINST THE BRAZILIAN GOVERNMENT 63\\nfor sea. Here I encountered one of the unforgiving\\nMello faction in the person of the collector of cus-\\ntoms, who charged the Spray tonnage dues when\\nshe cleared, notwithstanding that she sailed with a\\nyacht license and should have been exempt from\\nport charges. Our consul reminded the collector\\nof this and of the fact without much diplomacy, I\\nthought that it was I who brought the Destroyer\\nto Brazil. Oh, yes, said the bland collector\\nwe remember it very well, for it was now in a\\nsmall way his turn.\\nMr. Lungrin, a merchant, to help me out of the\\ntrifling difficulty, offered to freight the Spray with\\na cargo of gunpowder for Bahia, which would have\\nput me in funds; and when the insurance com-\\npanies refused to take the risk on cargo shipped on\\na vessel manned by a crew of only one, he offered\\nto ship it without insurance, taking all the risk\\nhimself. This was perhaps paying me a greater\\ncompliment than I deserved. The reason why I\\ndid not accept the business was that in so doing I\\nfound that I should vitiate my yacht license and\\nrun into more expense for harbor dues around the\\nworld than the freight would amount to. Instead\\nof all this, another old merchant friend came to my\\nassistance, advancing the cash direct.\\nWhile at Pernambuco I shortened the boom,\\nwhich had been broken when off the coast of Mo-\\nrocco, by removing the broken piece, which took\\nabout four feet off the inboard end I also refitted\\nthe jaws. On October 24, 1895, a fine day even as\\ndays go in Brazil, the Spray sailed, having had\\nabundant good cheer. Making about one hundred", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "64 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nmiles a day along the coast, I arrived at Eio de\\nJaneiro November 5, without any event worth\\nmentioning, and about noon cast anchor near\\nVillaganon, to await the official port visit. On the\\nfollowing day I bestirred myself to meet the highest\\nlord of the admiralty and the ministers, to inquire\\nconcerning the matter of wages due me from the\\nbeloved Destroyer. The high official I met said:\\nCaptain, so far as we are concerned, you may\\nhave the ship, and if you care to accept her we\\nwill send an officer to show you where she is. I\\nknew well enough where she was at that moment.\\nThe top of her smoke-stack being awash in Bahia,\\nit was more than likely that she rested on the\\nbottom there. I thanked the kind officer, but de-\\nclined his offer.\\nThe Spray, with a number of old shipmasters on\\nboard, sailed about the harbor of Rio the day be-\\nfore she put to sea. As I had decided to give the\\nSpray a yawl rig for the tempestuous waters of\\nPatagonia, I here placed on the stern a semicircular\\nbrace to support a jigger mast. These old captains\\ninspected the Spray^s rigging, and each one con-\\ntributed something to her outfit. Captain Jones,\\nwho had acted as my interpreter at Rio, gave her\\nan anchor, and one of the steamers gave her a\\ncable to match it. She never dragged Jones s\\nanchor once on the voyage, and the cable not only\\nstood the strain on a lee shore, but when towed off\\nCape Horn helped break combing seas astern that\\nthreatened to board her.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI\\nDeparture from Rio de Janeiro ^The Spray ashore on the sands\\nof Uruguay A narrow escape from shipwreck The boy who\\nfound a sloop The Spray floated but somewhat damaged\\nCourtesies from the British consul at Maldonado A warm\\ngreeting at Montevideo An excursion to Buenos Aires Short-\\nening the mast and bowsprit,\\nON ISTovember 28 the Spray sailed from Eio de\\nJaneiro, and first of all ran into a gale of wind,\\nwhich tore up things generally along the coast, doing\\nconsiderable damage to shipping. It was well for\\nher, perhaps, that she was clear of the land. Coasting\\nalong on this part of the voyage, I observed that\\nwhile some of the small vessels I fell in with were\\nable to outsail the Spray by day, they fell astern of\\nher by night. To the Spray day and night were\\nthe same to the others clearly there was a differ-\\nence. On one of the very fine days experienced\\nafter leaving Rio, the steamship South Wales spoke\\nthe Spray and unsolicited gave the longitude by\\nchronometer as 48\u00c2\u00b0 W., as near as I can make\\nit, the captain said. The Spray, with her tin\\nclock, had exactly the same reckoning. I was\\nfeeling at ease in my primitive method of naviga-\\ntion, but it startled me not a little to find my posi-\\ntion by account verified by the ship s chronometer.\\nOn December 5 a barkantine hove in sight, and", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "66 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nfor several days the two vessels sailed along the\\ncoast together. Right here a current was experi-\\nenced setting north, making it necessary to hug\\nthe shore, with which the Spray became rather fa-\\nmiliar. Here I confess a weakness I hugged the\\nshore entirely too close. In a word, at daybreak\\non the morning of December 11 the Spray ran hard\\nand fast on the beach. This was annoying but I\\nsoon found that the sloop was in no great danger.\\nThe false appearance of the sand-hills under a\\nbright moon had deceived me, and I lamented now\\nthat I had trusted to appearances at all. The sea,\\nthough moderately smooth, still carried a swell\\nwhich broke with some force on the shore. I man-\\naged to launch my small dory from the deck, and\\nran out a kedge-anchor and warp but it was too\\nlate to kedge the sloop off, for the tide was falling\\nand she had already sewed a foot. Then I went\\nabout laying out the larger anchor, which was\\nno easy matter, for my only life-boat, the frail\\ndory, when the anchor and cable were in it, was\\nswamped at once in the surf, the load being too\\ngreat for her. Then I cut the cable and made two\\nloads of it instead of one. The anchor, with forty\\nfathoms bent and already buoyed, I now took and\\nsucceeded in getting through the surf; but my\\ndory was leaking fast, and by the time I had rowed\\nfar enough to drop the anchor she was full to the\\ngunwale and sinking. There was not a moment to\\nspare, and I saw clearly that if I failed now all\\nmight be lost. I sprang from the oars to my feet,\\nand lifting the anchor above my head, threw it\\nclear just as she was turning over. I grasped her", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "A NARROW ESCAPE FROM SHIPWRECK\\n67\\ngunwale and held on as she turned bottom up, for\\nI suddenly remembered that I could not swim.\\nThen I tried to right her, but with too much eager-\\nness, for she rolled clean over, and left me as before,\\nclinging to her gunwale, while my body was still in\\nthe water. Giving a moment to cool reflection, I\\nfound that although the wind was blowing mod-\\nerately toward the land, the current was carrying\\nme to sea, and that something would have to be\\ndone. Three\\ntimes I had\\nbeen under wa-\\nter, in trying to\\nright the dory,\\nand I was just\\nsaying, Now I\\nlay me, when\\nI was seized\\nby a determina-\\ntion to try yet\\nonce more, so that no one of the prophets of\\nevil I had left behind me could say, I told you\\nso. Whatever the danger may have been, much\\nor little, I can truly say that the moment was the\\nmost serene of my life.\\nAfter righting the dory for the fourth time, I\\nfinally succeeded by the utmost care in keeping her\\nupright while I hauled myself into her and with\\none of the oars, which I had recovered, paddled to\\nthe shore, somewhat the worse for wear and pretty\\nfull of salt water. The position of my vessel, now\\nhigh and dry, gave me anxiety. To get her afloat\\nagain was all I thought of or cared for. I had httle\\nI suddenly remembered that I could not swim.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "68 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\ndifficulty in carrying the second part of my cable\\nout and securing it to the first, which I had taken\\nthe precaution to buoy before I put it into the boat.\\nTo bring the end back to the sloop was a smaller\\nmatter still, and I believe I chuckled above my\\nsorrows when I found that in all the haphazard\\nmy judgment or my good genius had faithfully\\nstood by me. The cable reached from the anchor\\nin deep water to the sloop s windlass by just enough\\nto secure a turn and no more. The anchor had\\nbeen dropped at the right distance from the vessel.\\nTo heave all taut now and wait for the coming tide\\nwas all I could do.\\nI had already done enough work to tire a stouter\\nman, and was only too glad to throw myself on the\\nsand above the tide and rest; for the sun was\\nalready up, and pouring a generous warmth over\\nthe land. While my state could have been worse,\\nI was on the wild coast of a foreign country, and\\nnot entirely secure in my property, as I soon found\\nout. I had not been long on the shore when I heard\\nthe patter, patter of a horse s feet approaching along\\nthe hard beach, which ceased as it came abreast of\\nthe sand-ridge where I lay sheltered from the\\nwind. Looking up cautiously, I saw mounted on a\\nnag probably the most astonished boy on the whole\\ncoast. He had found a sloop It must be mine,\\nhe thought, for am I not the first to see it on the\\nbeach? Sure enough, there it was all high and\\ndry and painted white. He trotted his horse\\naround it, and finding no owner, hitched the nag\\nto the sloop s bobstay and hauled as though he\\nwould take her home but of course she was too", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "THE BOY WHO FOUND A SLOOP 69\\nheavy for one horse to move. With my skiff, how-\\never, it was different this he hauled some distance,\\nand concealed behind a dune in a bunch of tall\\ngrass. He had made up his mind, I dare say, to\\nbring more horses and drag his bigger prize away,\\nanyhow, and was starting off for the settlement a\\nmile or so away for the reinforcement when I\\ndiscovered myself to him, at which he seemed\\ndispleased and disappointed. Buenos dias, mu-\\nchacho, I said. He grunted a reply, and eyed me\\nkeenly from head to foot. Then bursting into a vol-\\nley of questions, more than six Yankees could ask,\\nhe wanted to know, first, where my ship was from,\\nand how many days she had been coming. Then\\nhe asked what I was doing here ashore so early in\\nthe morning. Your questions are easily answered,\\nI replied my ship is from the moon, it has taken\\nher a month to come, and she is here for a cargo of\\nboys. But the intimation of this enterprise, had\\nI not been on the alert, might have cost me dearly\\nfor while I spoke this child of the campo coiled his\\nlariat ready to throw, and instead of being himself\\ncarried to the moon, he was apparently thinking\\nof towing me home by the neck, astern of his wild\\ncayuse, over the fields of Uruguay.\\nThe exact spot where I was stranded was at the\\nCastillo Chicos, about seven miles south of the\\ndividing-line of Uruguay and Brazil, and of course\\nthe natives there speak Spanish. To reconcile my\\nearly visitor, I told him that I had on my ship\\nbiscuits, and that I wished to trade them for butter\\nand milk. On hearing this a broad grin lighted up\\nhis face, and showed that he was greatly interested,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "THE SPEAY FLOATED 71\\nand that even in Uruguay a ship s biscuit will cheer\\nthe heart of a boy and make him your bosom friend.\\nThe lad almost flew home, and returned quickly\\nwith butter, milk, and eggs. I was, after all, in a\\nland of plenty. With the boy came others, old and\\nyoung, from neighboring ranches, among them a\\nGerman settler, who was of great assistance to me\\nin many ways.\\nA coast-guard from Fort Teresa, a few miles\\naway, also came, to protect your property from\\nthe natives of the plains, he said. I took occasion\\nto tell him, however, that if he would look after\\nthe people of his own village, I would take care of\\nthose from the plains, pointing, as I spoke, to the\\nnondescript merchant who had already stolen\\nmy revolver and several small articles from my\\ncabin, which by a bold front I had recovered. The\\nchap was not a native Uruguayan. Here, as in\\nmany other places that I visited, the natives\\nthemselves were not the ones discreditable to the\\ncountry.\\nEarly in the day a despatch came from the port\\ncaptain of Montevideo, commanding the coast-\\nguards to render the Spray every assistance. This,\\nhowever, was not necessary, for a guard was already\\non the alert, and making all the ado that would be-\\ncome the wreck of a steamer with a thousand emi-\\ngrants aboard. The same messenger brought word\\nfrom the port captain that he would despatch a\\nsteam-tug to tow the Spray to Montevideo. The offi-\\ncer was as good as his word a powerful tug arrived\\non the following day but, to make a long story\\nshort, with the help of the German and one soldier", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "72 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nand one Italian, called Angel of Milan, I had\\nali-eady floated the sloop and was sailing for port\\nwith the boom off before a fair wind. The adven-\\ntui-e cost the Spray no small amount of pounding\\non the hard sand; she lost her shoe and part of\\nher false keel, and received other damage, which,\\nhowever, was readily mended afterward in dock.\\nOn the following day I anchored at Maldonado.\\nThe British consul, his daughter, and another\\nyoung lady came on board, bringing with them a\\nbasket of fresh eggs, strawberries, bottles of milk,\\nand a great loaf of sweet bread. This was a good\\nlandfall, and better cheer than I had found at Mal-\\ndonado once upon a time when I entered the port\\nwith a stricken crew in my bark, the Aquidneck.\\nIn the waters of Maldonado Bay a variety of\\nfishes abound, and fur-seals in their season haul\\nout on the island abreast the bay to breed. Cur-\\nrents on this coast are greatly affected by the pre-\\nvailing winds, and a tidal wave higher than that\\nordinarily produced by the moon is sent up the\\nwhole shore of Uruguay before a southwest gale,\\nor lowered by a northeaster, as may happen. One\\nof these waves having just receded before the\\nnortheast wind which brought the Spray in left\\nthe tide now at low ebb, with oyster-rocks laid\\nbare for some distance along the shore. Other\\nshellfish of good flavor were also plentiful, though\\nsmall in size. I gathered a mess of oysters and\\nmussels here, while a native with hook and line,\\nand with mussels for bait, fished from a point of\\ndetached rocks for bream, landing several good-\\nsized ones.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "A WAEM GEEETING AT MONTEVIDEO 73\\nThe fisherman s nephew, a lad about seven years\\nold, deserves mention as the tallest blasphemer,\\nfor a short boy, that I met on the voyage. He\\ncalled his old uncle all the vile names under the\\nsun for not helping him across the gully. While\\nhe swore roundly in all the moods and tenses of\\nthe Spanish language, his uncle fished on, now and\\nthen congratulating his hopeful nephew on his\\naccomplishment. At the end of his rich vocabu-\\nlary the urchin sauntered off into the fields, and\\nshortly returned with a bunch of flowers, and with\\nall smiles handed them to me with the innocence\\nof an angel. I remembered having seen the same\\nflower on the banks of the river farther up, some\\nyears before. I asked the young pirate why he\\nhad brought them to me. Said he, I don t know\\nI only wished to do so. Whatever the influence\\nwas that put so amiable a wish in this wild pampa\\nboy, it must be far-reaching, thought I, and potent,\\nseas over.\\nShortly after, the Spray sailed for Montevideo,\\nwhere she arrived on the following day and was\\ngreeted by steam-whistles till I felt embarrassed\\nand wished that I had arrived unobserved. The\\nvoyage so far alone may have seemed to the Uru-\\nguayans a feat worthy of some recognition; but\\nthere was so much of it yet ahead, and of such an\\narduous nature, that any demonstration at this\\npoint seemed, somehow, like boasting prematurely.\\nThe Spray had barely come to anchor at Monte-\\nvideo when the agents of the Eoyal Mail Steam-\\nship Company, Messrs. Humphreys Co., sent\\nword that they would dock and repair her free of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "74 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nexpense and give me twenty pounds sterling,\\nwhich they did to the letter, and more besides.\\nThe calkers at Montevideo paid very careful atten-\\ntion to the work of making the sloop tight. Car-\\npenters mended the keel and also the life-boat (the\\ndory), painting it till 1 hardly knew it from a\\nbutterfly.\\nChristmas of 1895 found the Spray refitted even\\nto a wonderful makeshift stove which was contrived\\nfrom a large iron drum of some sort punched full\\nof holes to give it a draft the pipe reached straight\\nup through the top of the forecastle. Now, this was\\nnot a stove by mere courtesy. It was always hun-\\ngry, even for green wood and in cold, wet days off\\nthe coast of Tierra del Fuego it stood me in good\\nstead. Its one door swung on copper hinges, which\\none of the yard apprentices, with laudable pride,\\npolished till the whole thing blushed like the brass\\nbinnacle of a P. O. steamer.\\nThe Spray was now ready for sea. Instead of\\nproceeding at once on her voyage, however, she\\nmade an excursion up the river, sailing December\\n29. An old friend of mine. Captain Howard of\\nCape Cod and of Eiver Plate fame, took the trip in\\nher to Buenos Aires, where she arrived early on\\nthe following day, with a gale of wind and a cur-\\nrent so much in her favor that she outdid herself.\\nI was glad to have a sailor of Howard s experience\\non board to witness her performance of sailing\\nwith no living being at the helm. Howard sat\\nnear the binnacle and watched the compass while\\nthe sloop held her course so steadily that one\\nwould have declared that the card was nailed fast.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "AN EXCUESION TO BUENOS AIEES 75\\nNot a quarter of a point did she deviate from her\\ncourse. My old friend had owned and sailed a\\npilot-sloop on the river for many years, but this\\nfeat took the wind out of his sails at last, and he\\ncried, I 11 be stranded on Chico Bank if ever I\\nsaw the like of it Perhaps he had never given\\nhis sloop a chance to show what she could do.\\nThe point I make for the Spray here, above all\\nother points, is that she sailed in shoal water and\\nin a strong current, with other difficult and un-\\nusual conditions. Captain Howard took all this\\ninto account.\\nIn all the years away from his native home\\nHoward had not forgotten the art of making fish\\nchowders and to prove this he brought along some\\nfine rockfish and prepared a mess fit for kings.\\nWhen the savory chowder was done, chocking\\nthe pot securely between two boxes on the cabin\\nfloor, so that it could not roll over, we helped our-\\nselves and swapped yarns over it while the Spray\\nmade her own way through the darkness on the\\nriver. Howard told me stories about the Fuegian\\ncannibals as she reeled along, and I told him about\\nthe pilot of the Pinta steering my vessel through\\nthe storm off the coast of the Azores, and that I\\nlooked for him at the helm in a gale such as this.\\nI do not charge Howard with superstition, we\\nare none of us superstitious, but when I spoke\\nabout his returning to Montevideo on the Spray he\\nshook his head and took a steam-packet instead.\\nI had not been in Buenos Aires for a number of\\nyears. The place where I had once landed from\\npackets, in a cart, was now built up with magnifi-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "76 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ncent clocks. Vast fortunes had been spent in re-\\nmodeling the harbor London bankers could tell you\\nthat. The port captain, after assigning the Spray\\na safe berth, with his compliments, sent me word\\nto call on him for anything I might want while in\\nport, and I felt quite sure that his friendship was\\nsincere. The sloop was well cared for at Buenos\\nAires her dockage and tonnage dues were all free,\\nand the yachting fraternity of the city welcomed\\nher with a good will. In town I found things not\\nso greatly changed as about the docks, and I soon\\nfelt myself more at home.\\nFrom Montevideo I had forwarded a letter from\\nSir Edward Hairby to the owner of the Standard,\\nMr. Mulhall, and in reply to it was assui-ed of a\\nwarm welcome to the warmest heart, I think, out-\\nside of Ireland. Mr. Mulhall, with a prancing\\nteam, came down to the docks as soon as the\\nSpray was berthed, and would have me go to his\\nhouse at once, where a room was waiting. And\\nit was New Year s day, 1896. The course of the\\nSpray had been followed in the columns of the\\nStandard.\\nMr. Mulhall kindly drove me to see many im-\\nprovements about the city, and we went in search\\nof some of the old Ian imarks. The man who sold\\nlemonade on the p aza when first I visited this\\nwonderful city I found selHng lemonade still at\\ntwo cents a glass; hfj had made a fortune by it.\\nHis stock in trade wa s a wash-tub and a neighbor-\\ning hydrant, a moderate supply of brown sugar,\\nand about six lemons, that floated on the sweetened\\nwater. The water from time to time was renewed", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "AN EXCURSION TO BEUNOS AIEES\\n77\\nfrom the friendly pump, but the lem.on went on\\nforever, and all at two cents a glass.\\nBut we looked in vain for the man who once sold\\nwhisky and coffins in Buenos Aires the march of\\ncivilization had crushed him memory only clung\\nto his name. Enterprising man that he was, I fain\\nAt the sign of the comet.\\nwould have looked him up. I remember the tiers\\nof whisky-barrels, ranged on end, on one side of\\nthe store, while on the other side, and divided by\\na thin partition, were the coffins in the same order,\\nof all sizes and in great numbers. The unique ar-\\nrangement seemed in order, for as a cask was\\nemptied a coffin might be filled. Besides cheap\\nwhisky and many other liquors, he sold cider,\\nwhich he manufactured from damaged Malaga", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "78 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nraisins. Within the scope of his enterprise was\\nalso the sale of mineral waters, not entirely blame-\\nless of the germs of disease. This man surely ca-\\ntered to all the tastes, wants, and conditions of\\nhis customers.\\nFarther along in the city, however, survived the\\ngood man who wrote on the side of his store, where\\nthoughtful men might read and learn: This\\nwicked world will be destroyed by a comet The\\nowner of this store is therefore bound to sell out\\nat any price and avoid the catastrophe. My friend\\nMr. Mulhall drove me round to view the fearful\\ncomet with streaming tail pictured large on the\\ntrembling merchant s walls.\\nI unshipped the sloop s mast at Buenos Aires\\nand shortened it by seven feet. I reduced the\\nlength of the bowsprit by about five feet, and even\\nthen I found it reaching far enough from home;\\nand more than once, when on the end of it reefing\\nthe jib, I regretted that I had not shortened it\\nanother foot.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII\\nWeighing anchor at Buenos Aires An outburst of emotion at the\\n~mouth of the Plate Submerged by a great wave A stormy-\\nentrance to the strait Captain Samblibh s happy gift of a bag\\nof carpet-tacks Off Cape Fro ward Chased by Indians from\\nFortescue Bay A miss-shot for Black Pedro Taking in\\nsupplies of wood and water at Three Island Cove Animal life.\\nON January 26, 1896, the Spray, being refitted\\nand well provisioned in every way, sailed from\\nBuenos Aires. There was little wind at the start;\\nthe surface of the great river was like a silver disk,\\nand I was glad of a tow from a harbor tug to clear\\nthe port entrance. But a gale came up soon after,\\nand caused an ugly sea, and instead of being all\\nsilver, as before, the river was now all mud. The\\nPlate is a treacherous place for storms. One sail-\\ning there should always be on the alert for squalls.\\nI cast anchor before dark in the best lee I could find\\nnear the land, but was tossed miserably all night,\\nheartsore of choppy seas. On the following morn-\\ning I got the sloop under way, and with reefed sails\\nworked her down the river against a head wind.\\nStanding in that night to the place where pilot\\nHoward joined me for the up-river sail, I took a\\ndeparture, shaping my course to clear Point Indio\\non the one hand, and the English Bank on the\\nother.\\n79", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "SUBMEEGED BY A GREAT WAVE 81\\nI had not for many years been south of these\\nregions. I will not say that I expected all fine\\nsailing on the course for Cape Horn direct, but\\nwhile I worked at the sails and rigging I thought\\nonly of onward and forward. It was when I an-\\nchored in the lonely places that a feeling of awe\\ncrept over me. At the last anchorage on the mo-\\nnotonous and muddy river, weak as it may seem,\\nI gave way to my feehngs. I resolved then that I\\nwould anchor no more north of the Strait of Ma-\\ngellan.\\nOn the 28th of January the Spray was clear of\\nPoint Indio, English Bank, and all the other dan-\\ngers of the Eiver Plate. With a fair wind she\\nthen bore away for the Strait of Magellan, under\\nall sail, pressing farther and farther toward the\\nwonderland of the South, till I forgot the blessings\\nof our milder North.\\nMy ship passed in safety Bahia Blanca, also the\\naulf of St. Matias and the mighty Gulf of St.\\nGeorge. Hoping that she might go clear of the\\ndestructive tide-races, the dread of big craft or\\nlittle along this coast, I gave all the capes a berth\\nof about fifty miles, for these dangers extend many\\nmiles from the land. But where the sloop avoided\\none danger she encountered another. For, one\\nday, well off the Patagonian coast, while the sloop\\nwas reaching under short sail, a tremendous wave,\\nthe culmination, it seemed, of many waves, rolled\\ndown upon her in a storm, roaring as it came. I\\nhad only a moment to get all sail down and myself\\nup on the peak halliards, out of danger, when I\\nsaw the mighty crest towering masthead- high above", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "82 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nme. The mountain of water submerged my vessel.\\nShe shook in every timber and reeled under the\\nweight of the sea, but rose quickly out of it, and\\nrode grandly over the rollers that followed. It\\nmay have been a minute that from my hold in the\\nrigging I could see no part of the Spray^s hull.\\nPerhaps it was even less time than that, but it\\nseemed a long while, for under great excitement\\none lives fast, and in a few seconds one may think\\na great deal of one s past life. Not only did the\\npast, with electric speed, flash before me, but I had\\ntime while in my hazardous position for resolu-\\ntions for the future that would take a long time to\\nfulfil. The first one was, I remember, that if the\\nSpray came through this danger I would dedi-\\ncate my best energies to building a larger ship on\\nher lines, which I hope yet to do. Other promises,\\nless easily kept, I should have made under protest.\\nHowever, the incident, which filled me with fear,\\nwas only one more test of the Spray^s seaworthi-\\nness. It reassured me against rude Cape Horn.\\nFrom the time the great wave swept over the\\nSpray until she reached Cape Virgins nothing oc-\\ncurred to move a pulse and set blood in motion.\\nOn the contrary, the weather became fine and the\\nsea smooth and life tranquil. The phenomenon of\\nmirage frequently occurred. An albatross sitting\\non the water one day loomed up like a large ship\\ntwo fur-seals asleep on the surface of the sea ap-\\npeared like great whales, and a bank of haze I\\ncould have sworn was high land. The kaleido-\\nscope then changed, and on the following day I\\nsailed in a world peopled by dwarfs.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "A STORMY ENTRANCE TO THE STRAIT 83\\nOn Februaiy 11 the Spray rounded Cape Virgins\\nand entered the Strait of Magellan. The scene\\nwas again real and gloomy the wind, northeast,\\nand blowing a gale, sent feather- white spume along\\nthe coast such a sea ran as would swamp an ill-\\nappointed ship. As the sloop neared the entrance\\nEntrance to the Strait of Magellan.\\nto the strait I observed that two great tide-races\\nmade ahead, one very close to the point of the land\\nand one farther offshore. Between the two, in a\\nsort of channel, through combers, went the Spray\\nwith close-reefed sails. But a rolling sea followed\\nher a long way in, and a fierce current swept\\naround the cape against her but this she stemmed,\\nand was soon chirruping under the lee of Cape\\nVirgins and running every minute into smoother\\nwater. However, long trailing kelp from sunken\\nrocks waved forebodingly under her keel, and the\\nwreck of a great steamship smashed on the beach\\nabreast gave a gloomy aspect to the scene.\\nI was not to be let off easy. The Virgins would\\ncollect tribute even from the Spray passing their\\npromontory. Fitful rain-squalls from the north-\\nwest followed the northeast gale. I reefed the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "84 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsloop s sails, and sitting in the cabin to rest my\\neyes, I was so strongly impressed with what in all\\nnature I might expect that as I dozed the very air\\nI breathed seemed to warn me of danger. My\\nsenses heard Spray ahoy shouted in warning.\\nI sprang to the deck, wondering who could be\\nthere that knew the Spray so well as to call out her\\nname passing in the dark; for it was now the\\nblackest of nights all around, except away in\\nthe southwest, where the old familiar white arch,\\nthe terror of Cape Horn, rapidly pushed up by\\na southwest gale. I had only a moment to douse\\nsail and lash all solid when it struck like a shot\\nfrom a cannon, and for the first half -hour it was\\nsomething to be remembered by way of a gale.\\nFor thirty hours it kept on blowing hard. The\\nsloop could carry no more than a three-reefed main-\\nsail and f orestaysail with these she held on stoutly\\nand was not blown out of the strait. In the height\\nof the squalls in this gale she doused all sail, and\\nthis occurred often enough.\\nAfter this gale followed only a smart breeze, and\\nthe Spray, passing through the narrows without\\nmishap, cast anchor at Sandy Point on February\\n14, 1896.\\nSandy Point (Punta Arenas) is a Chilean coal-\\ning-station, and boasts about two thousand inhabi-\\ntants, of mixed nationality, but mostly Chileans.\\nWhat with sheep -farming, gold-mining, and hunt-\\ning, the settlers in this dreary land seemed not the\\nworst off in the world. But the natives, Patagonian\\nand Fuegian, on the other hand, were as squalid\\nas contact with unscrupulous traders could make\\n4", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "86 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nthem. A large percentage of the business there\\nwas traffic in fire-water. If there was a law\\nagainst selling the poisonous stuff to the natives,\\nit was not enforced. Fine specimens of the Pata-\\ngonian race, looking smart in the morning when\\nthey came into town, had repented before night of\\never having seen a white man, so beastly drunk\\nwere they, to say nothing about the peltry of which\\nthey had been robbed.\\nThe port at that time was free, but a custom-\\nhouse was in course of construction, and when it\\nis finished, port and tariff dues are to be collected.\\nA soldier police guarded the place, and a sort of\\nvigilante force besides took down its guns now\\nand then; but as a general thing, to my mind,\\nwhenever an execution was made they killed the\\nwrong man. Just previous to my arrival the gov-\\nernor, himself of a jovial turn of mind, had sent a\\nparty of young bloods to foray a Fuegian settle-\\nment and wipe out what they could of it on ac-\\ncount of the recent massacre of a schooner s crew\\nsomewhere else. Altogether the place was quite\\nnewsy and supported two papers dailies, I think.\\nThe port captain, a Chilean naval officer, advised\\nme to ship hands to fight Indians in the strait\\nfarther west, and spoke of my stopping until a\\ngunboat should be going through, which would\\ngive me a tow. After canvassing the place, how-\\never, I found only one man willing to embark, and\\nhe on condition that I should ship another mon\\nand a doog. But as no one else was willing to\\ncome along, and as I drew the line at dogs, I said\\nno more about the matter, but simply loaded my", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "A GIFT OF A BAG OF CARPET-TACKS\\n87\\nguns. At this point in my dilemma Captain Pedro\\nSamblich, a good Austrian of large experience,\\ncoming along, gave me a bag of carpet-tacks, worth,\\nmore than all the fighting men and dogs of Tierra\\ndel Fuego. I protested that I had no use for car-\\npet-tacks on board. Sam-\\nblich smiled at my want\\nof experience, and main-\\ntained stoutly that I would\\nhave use for them. You\\nmust use them with dis-\\ncretion, he said; that is\\nto say, don t step on them\\nyourself. With this re-\\nmote hint about the use of\\nthe tacks I got on all right,\\nand saw the way to main-\\ntain clear decks at night\\nwithout the care of watch-\\ning.\\nSamblich was greatly in-\\nterested in my voyage, and\\nafter giving me the tacks\\nhe put on board bags Of\\nbiscuits and a large quan-\\ntity of smoked venison.\\nHe declared that my bread,\\nwhich was ordinary sea-\\nbiscuits and easily broken,\\nwas not nutritious as his, which was so hard that I\\ncould break it only with a stout blow from a maul.\\nThen he gave me, from his own sloop, a compass\\nwhich was certainly better than mine, and offered to\\nThe man who would n t ship\\nwithout another mon\\nand a doog.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "88\\nSAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nunbend her mainsail for me if I would accept it.\\nLast of all, this large-hearted man brought out a\\nbottle of Fuegian gold-dust from a place where it\\nhad been cached and begged me to help myself\\nfrom it, for use farther along on the voyage. But\\nI felt sure of success without\\nthis draft on a friend, and I\\nwas right. Samblich s tacks,\\nas it turned out, were of more\\nvalue than gold.\\nThe port captain finding\\nthat I was resolved to go, even\\nalone, since there was no help\\nfor it, set up no further objec-\\ntions, but advised me, in case\\nthe savages tried to surround\\nme with their canoes, to shoot\\nstraight, and begin to do it in\\ntime, but to avoid killing them\\nif possible, which I heartily\\nagreed to do. With these\\nsimple injunctions the officer\\ngave me my port clearance free\\nof charge, and I sailed on the\\nsame day, February 19, 1896. It was not without\\nthoughts of strange and stirring adventure beyond\\nall I had yet encountered that I now sailed into the\\ncountry and very core of the savage Fuegians.\\nA fair wind from Sandy Point brought me on\\nthe first day to St. Nicholas Bay, where, so I was\\ntold, I might expect to meet savages but seeing\\nno signs of life, I came to anchor in eight fathoms\\nof water, where I lay all night under a high moun-\\nA Puegiau. Girl.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "OFF CAPE FEOWAED 89\\ntain. Here I had my first experience with the\\nterrific squalls, called williwaws, which extended\\nfrom this point on through the strait to the\\nPacific. They were compressed gales of wind that\\nBoreas handed down over the hills in chunks. A\\nfull-blown williwaw will throw a ship, even with-\\nout sail on, over on her beam ends but, like other\\ngales, they cease now and then, if only for a short\\ntime.\\nFebruary 20 was my birthday, and I found my-\\nself alone, with hardly so much as a bird in sight,\\noff Cape Froward, the southernmost point of the\\ncontinent of America. By daylight in the morning\\nI was getting my ship under way for the bout\\nahead.\\nThe sloop held the wind fair while she ran\\nthirty miles farther on her course, which brought\\nher to Fortescue Bay, and at once among the\\nnatives signal-fires, which blazed up now on all\\nsides. Clouds flew over the mountain from the\\nwest all day at night my good east wind failed,\\nand in its stead a gale from the west soon came on.\\nI gained anchorage at twelve o clock that night,\\nunder the lee of a little island, and then prepared\\nmyself a cup of coffee, of which I was sorely in\\nneed for, to tell the truth, hard beating in the\\nheavy squalls and against the current had told on\\nmy strength. Finding that the anchor held, I\\ndrank my beverage, and named the place Coffee\\nIsland. It lies to the south of Charles Island, with\\nonly a narrow channel between.\\nBy daylight the next morning the Spray was\\nagain under way, bea.ting hard but she came to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "CHASED BY INDIANS FROM FOETESCUE BAY 91\\nin a cove in Charles Island, two and a half miles\\nalong on her course. Here she remained undis-\\nturbed two days, with both anchors down in a bed\\nof kelp. Indeed, she might have remained undis-\\nturbed indefinitely had not the wind moderated\\nfor during these two days it blew so hard that no\\nboat could venture out on the strait, and the na-\\ntives being away to other hunting-grounds, the isl-\\nand anchorage was safe. But at the end of the\\nfierce wind-storm fair weather came then I got\\nmy anchors, and again sailed out upon the strait.\\nCanoes manned by savages from Fortescue now\\ncame in pursuit. The wind falling light, they\\ngained on me rapidly till coming within hail, when\\nthey ceased paddling, and a bow-legged savage\\nstood up and called to me, Yammer schooner\\nyammerschooner which is their begging term.\\nI said, No Now, I was not for letting on\\nthat I was alone, and so I stepped into the\\ncabin, and, passing through the hold, came out at\\nthe fore-scuttle, changing my clothes as I went\\nalong. That made two men. Then the piece of\\nbowsprit which I had sawed off at Buenos Aires,\\nand which I had still on board, I arranged forward\\non the lookout, dressed as a seaman, attaching a\\nline by which I could pull it into motion. That\\nmade three of us, and we did n t want to yam-\\nmerschooner but for all that the savages came\\non faster than before. I saw that besides four at\\nthe paddles in the canoe nearest to me, there were\\nothers in the bottom, and that they were shifting\\nhands often. At eighty yards I fired a shot across\\nthe bows of the nearest canoe, at which they all", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "92 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nstopped, but only for a moment. Seeing that they\\npersisted in coming nearer, I fired the second shot\\nso close to the chap who wanted to yammer-\\nschooner that he changed his mind quickly enough\\nand bellowed with fear, Bueno jo via Isla, and\\nsitting down in his canoe, he rubbed his starboard\\ncat-head for some time. I was thinking of the\\ngood port captain s advice when I pulled the trig-\\nger, and must have aimed pretty straight; how-\\never, a miss was as good as a mile for Mr. Black\\nPedro, as he it was, and no other, a leader in\\nseveral bloody massacres. He made for the island\\nnow, and the others followed him. I knew by his\\nSpanish lingo and by his full beard that he was\\nthe villain I have named, a renegade mongi el, and\\nthe worst murderer in Tierra del Fuego. The\\nauthorities had been in search of him for two years.\\nThe Fuegians are not bearded.\\nSo much for the first day among the savages. I\\ncame to anchor at midnight in Three Island Cove,\\nabout twenty miles along from Fortescue Bay. I\\nsaw on the opposite side of the strait signal-fires,\\nand heard the barking of dogs, but where I lay it\\nwas quite deserted by natives. I have always\\ntaken it as a sign that where I found birds sitting\\nabout, or seals on the rocks, I should not find\\nsavage Indians. Seals are never plentiful in these\\nwaters, but in Three Island Cove I saw one on the\\nrocks, and other signs of the absence of savage men.\\nOn the next day the wind was again blowing a\\ngale, and although she was in the lee of the land,\\nthe sloop dragged her anchors, so that I had to get\\nher under way and beat farther into the cove, where", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "94 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nI came to in a landlocked pool. At another time\\nor place this would have been a rash thing to do,\\nand it was safe now only from the fact that the gale\\nwhich drove me to shelter would keep the Indians\\nfrom crossing the strait. Seeing this was the case,\\nI went ashore with gun and ax on an island, where\\nI could not in any event be sm^jDrised, and there\\nfelled trees and split about a cord of fii-e-wood,\\nwhich loaded my small boat several times.\\nWhile I carried the wood, though I was morally\\nsure there were no savages near, I never once went\\nto or from the skiff without my gun. While I had\\nthat and a clear field of over eighty yards about me\\nI felt safe.\\nThe trees on the island, very scattering, were\\na sort of beech and a stunted cedar, both of which\\nmade good fuel. Even the green limbs of the\\nbeech, which seemed to possess a resinous qual-\\nity, burned readily in my great drum-stove. I\\nhave described my method of wooding up in detail,\\nthat the reader who has kindly borne with me so\\nfar may see that in this, as in all other particulars\\nof my voyage, I took great care against all kinds\\nof surprises, whether by animals or by the elements.\\nIn the Strait of Magellan the greatest ^dgilance was\\nnecessary. In this instance I reasoned that I had\\nall about me the greatest danger of the whole\\nvoyage the treachery of cunning savages, for\\nwhich I must be particularly on the alert.\\nThe Spray sailed from Three Island Cove in the\\nmorning after the gale went down, but was glad to\\nreturn for shelter from another sudden gale. Sail-\\ning again on the following day, she fetched Borgia", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "AT THREE ISLAND COVE\\n95\\nBay, a few miles on her course, where vessels had\\nanchored from time to time and had nailed boards\\non the trees ashore with name and date of harboring\\ncarved or painted. Nothing else could I see to in-\\ndicate that civilized man had ever been there. I\\nhad taken a survey of the gloomy place with my\\nspy-glass, and was getting my boat out to land and\\nA bit of friendly assistance.\\n(After a sketch toy MidsMpman Miguel Arenas.)\\ntake notes, when the Chilean gunboat Huemel came\\nin, and officers, coming on board, advised me to\\nleave the place at once, a thing that required little\\neloquence to persuade me to do. I accepted the\\ncaptain s kind offer of a tow to the next anchorage,\\nat the place called Notch Cove, eight miles farther\\nalong, where I should be clear of the worst of the\\nFuegians.\\nWe made anchorage at the cove about dark\\nthat night, while the wind came down in fierce\\nwilliwaws from the mountains. An instance of\\nMagellan weather was afforded when the Huemel, a\\nwell-appointed gunboat of great power, after at-\\ntempting on the following day to proceed on her\\nvoyage, was obliged by sheer force of the wind to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "96 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nreturn and take up anchorage again and remain till\\nthe gale abated and lucky she was to get back\\nMeeting this vessel was a little godsend. She\\nwas commanded and officered by high-class sailors\\nand educated gentlemen. An entertainment that\\nwas gotten up on her, impromptu, at the Notch\\nwould be hard to beat anywhere. One of her mid-\\nshipmen sang popular songs in French, German, and\\nSpanish, and one (so he said) in Russian. If the\\naudience did not know the lingo of one song from\\nanother, it was no drawback to the merriment.\\nI was left alone the next day, for then the Huemel\\nput out on her voyage the gale having abated.\\nI spent a day taking in wood and water; by the\\nend of that time the weather was fine. Then I\\nsailed from the desolate place.\\nThere is little more to be said concerning the\\nSpray^s first passage through the strait that would\\ndiffer from what I have already recorded. She\\nanchored and weighed many times, and beat many\\ndays against the current, with now and then a\\nslant for a few miles, till finally she gained\\nanchorage and shelter for the night at Port Tamar,\\nwith Cape Pillar in sight to the west. Here I felt\\nthe throb of the great ocean that lay before me. I\\nknew now that I had put a world behind me, and\\nthat I was opening out another world ahead. I\\nhad passed the haunts of savages. Great piles of\\ngranite mountains of bleak and lifeless aspect were\\nnow astern on some of them not even a speck of\\nmoss had ever grown. There was an unfinished\\nnewness all about the land. On the hill back of\\nPort Tamar a small beacon had been thrown up,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "ANIMAL LIFE 97\\nshowing that some man had been there. But how\\ncould one tell but that he had died of loneliness and\\ngrief? In a bleak land is not the place to enjoy\\nsolitude.\\nThroughout the whole of the strait west of Cape\\nFroward I saw no animals except dogs owned by\\nsavages. These I saw often enough, and heard\\nthem yelping night and day. Birds were not plen-\\ntiful. The scream of a wild fowl, which I took for\\na loon, sometimes startled me with its piercing cry.\\nThe steamboat duck, so called because it propels\\nitself over the sea with its wings, and resembles a\\nminiature side-wheel steamer in its motion, was\\nsometimes seen scurrying on out of danger. It\\nnever flies, but, hitting the water instead of the\\nair with its wings, it moves faster than a rowboat\\nor a canoe. The few fur-seals I saw were very shy;\\nand of fishes I saw next to none at all. I did not catch\\none indeed, I seldom or never put a hook over\\nduring the whole voyage. Here in the strait I found\\ngreat abundance of mussels of an excellent quality.\\nI fared sumptuously on them. There was a sort of\\nswan, smaller than a Muscovy duck, which might\\nhave been brought down with the gun, but in the\\nlonehness of life about the dreary country I found\\nmyself in no mood to make one life less, except\\nin self-defense.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "CHAPTEE yill\\nFrom Cape Pillar into the Pacific Driven by a tempest toward\\nCape Horn Captain Sloeum s greatest sea adventure Reach-\\ning the strait again by way of Cockburn Channel Some sav-\\nages find the carpet-tacks Danger from firebrands A series\\nof fierce williwaws Again sailing westward.\\nIT was the 3d of March when the Spray sailed\\nfrom Port Tamar direct for Cape Pillar, with the\\nwind from the northeast, which I fervently hoped\\nmight hold till she cleared the land but there was\\nno such good luck in store. It soon began to rain\\nand thicken in the northwest, boding no good. The\\nSpray neared Cape Pillar rapidly, and, nothing\\nloath, plunged into the Pacific Ocean at once, tak-\\ning her first bath of it in the gathering storm.\\nThere was no turning back even had I wished to\\ndo so, for the land was now shut out by the dark-\\nness of night. The wind freshened, and I took\\nin a third reef. The sea was confused and treach-\\nerous. In such a time as this the old fisherman\\nprayed, Remember, Lord, my ship is small and\\nthy sea is so wide I saw now only the gleam-\\ning crests of the waves. They showed white teeth\\nwhile the sloop balanced over them. Everything\\nfor an ofifing, I cried, and to this end I carried on\\nall the sail she would bear. She ran aU night with\\na free sheet, but on the morning of March 4 the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "DRIVEN BY A TEMPEST 99\\nwind shifted to southwest, then back suddenly to\\nnorthwest, and blew with terrific force. The Spray\\nstripped of her sails, then bore off under bare poles.\\nNo ship in the world could have stood up against\\nso violent a gale. Knowing that this storm might\\ncontinue for many days, and that it would be im-\\npossible to work back to the westward along the\\ncoast outside of Tierra del Fuego, there seemed\\nnothing to do but to keep on and go east about,\\n^^^iis^\\nCape Pillar.\\nafter all. Anyhow, for my present safety the only\\ncourse lay in keeping her before the wind. And so\\nshe drove southeast, as though about to round the\\nHorn, while the waves rose and fell and bellowed\\ntheir never-ending story of the sea but the Hand\\nthat held these held also the Spray. She was run-\\nning now with a reefed forestaysail, the sheets flat\\namidship. I paid out two long ropes to steady\\nher course and to break combing seas astern, and I\\nlashed the helm amidship. In this trim she ran\\nbefore it, shipping never a sea. Even while the\\nstorm raged at its worst, my ship was wholesome", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "100 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nand noble. My mind as to her seaworthiness was\\nput at ease for aye.\\nWhen all had been done that I could do for the\\nsafety of the vessel, I got to the fore-scuttle, be-\\ntween seas, and prepared a pot of coffee over a wood\\nfire, and made a good Irish stew. Then, as before\\nand afterward on the Spray, I insisted on warm\\nmeals. In the tide-race off Cape Pillar, however,\\nwhere the sea was marvelously high, uneven, and\\ncrooked, my appetite was slim, and for a time I\\npostponed cooking. (Confidentially, I was seasick!)\\nThe first day of the storm gave the Spray her\\nactual test in the worst sea that Cape Horn or its\\nwild regions could afford, and in no part of the\\nworld could a rougher sea be found than at this\\nparticular point, namely, off Cape Pillar, the grim\\nsentinel of the Horn.\\nFarther offshore, while the sea was majestic, there\\nwas less apprehension of danger. There the Spray\\nrode, now like a bird on the crest of a wave,\\nand now like a waif deep down in the hollow\\nbetween seas; and so she drove on. Wliole daj s\\npassed, counted as other days, but with always a\\nthrill yes, of delight.\\nOn the fourth day of the gale, rapidly nearing\\nthe pitch of Cape Horn, I inspected my chart and\\npricked off the course and distance to Port Stanley,\\nin the Falkland Islands, where I might find my\\nway and refit, when I saw through a rift in the\\nclouds a high mountain, about seven leagues away\\non the port beam. The fierce edge of the gale by this\\ntime had blown off, and I had already bent a square-\\nsail on the boom in place of the mainsail, which", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "REACHING THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN AGAIN 101\\nwas torn to rags. I hauled in the trailing ropes,\\nhoisted this awkward sail reefed, the forestaysail\\nbeing already set, and under this sail brought her\\nat once on the wind heading for the land, which\\nappeared as an island in the sea. So it turned out\\nto be, though not the one I had supposed.\\nI was exultant over the prospect of once more\\nentering the Strait of Magellan and beating through\\nagain into the Pacific, for it was more than rough\\non the outside coast of Tierra del Fuego. It was\\nindeed a mountainous sea. When the sloop was in\\nthe fiercest squalls, with only the reefed forestaysail\\nset, even that small sail shook her from keelson to\\ntruck when it shivered by the leech. Had I har-\\nbored the shadow of a doubt for her safety, it would\\nhave been that she might spring a leak in the gar-\\nboard at the heel of the mast but she never called\\nme once to the pump. Under pressure of the\\nsmallest sail I could set she made for the land like\\na race-horse, and steering her over the crests of the\\nwaves so that she might not trip was nice work.\\nI stood at the helm now and made the most of it.\\nNight closed in before the sloop reached the\\nland, leaving her feeling the way in pitchy dark-\\nness. I saw breakers ahead before long. At this I\\nwore ship and stood offshore, but was immediately\\nstartled by the tremendous roaring of breakers\\nagain ahead and on the lee bow. This puzzled me,\\nfor there should have been no broken water where\\nI supposed myself to be. I kept off a good bit,\\nthen wore round, but finding broken water also\\nthere, threw her head again offshore. In this way,\\namong dangers, I spent the rest of the night. Hail", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "102 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nand sleet in the fierce squalls cnt my flesh till the\\nblood trickled over my face but what of that I It\\nwas daylight, and the sloop was in the midst of the\\nMilky Way of the sea, which is northwest of Cape\\nHorn, and it was the white breakers of a huge sea\\nover sunken rocks which had threatened to engulf\\nher through the night. It was Fury Island I had\\nsighted and steered for, and what a panorama was\\nbefore me now and all around! It was not the\\ntime to complain of a broken skin. What could I\\ndo but fih away among the breakers and find a\\nchannel between them, now that it was day Since\\nshe had escaped the rocks through the night, sm*ely\\nshe would find her way by daylight. This was the\\ngreatest sea adventure of my life. Grod knows how\\nmy vessel escaped.\\nThe sloop at last reached inside of small islands\\nthat sheltered her in smooth water. Then I climbed\\nthe mast to survey the wild scene astern. The\\ngreat naturalist Darwin looked over this seascape\\nfrom the deck of the Beagle, and wrote in his journal,\\nAny landsman seeing the Milky Way would have\\nnightmare for a week. He might have added, or\\nseaman as well.\\nThe Spraifs good luck followed fast. I discov-\\nered, as she sailed along through a labyrinth of\\nislands, that she was in the Cockburn Channel,\\nwhich leads into the Strait of Magellan at a point\\nopposite Cape Froward, and that she was abeady\\npassing Thieves Bay, suggestively named. And\\nat night, March 8, behold, she was at anchor in a\\nsnug cove at the Turn Every heart-beat on the\\nSp ay now counted thanks.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "SAVAGES FIND THE CARPET-TACKS 103\\nHere I pondered on the events of the last few\\ndays, and, strangely enough, instead of feeling\\nrested from sitting or lying down, I now began to\\nfeel jaded and worn; but a hot meal of venison\\nstew soon put me right, so that I could sleep. As\\ndrowsiness came on I sprinkled the deck with\\ntacks, and then I turned in, bearing in mind the\\nadvice of my old friend Samblich that I was not\\nto step on them myself. I saw to it that not a\\nfew of them stood business end up; for when\\nthe Spray passed Thieves Bay two canoes had put\\nout and followed in her wake, and there was no\\ndisguising the fact any longer that I was alone.\\nNow, it is well known that one cannot step on a\\ntack without saying something about it. A pretty\\ngood Christian will whistle when he steps on the\\ncommercial end of a carpet-tack; a savage will\\nhowl and claw the air, and that was just what hap-\\npened that night about twelve o clock, while I was\\nasleep in the cabin, where the savages thought they\\nhad me, sloop and all, but changed their minds\\nwhen they stepped on deck, for then they thought\\nthat I or somebody else had them. I had no need\\nof a dog they howled like a pack of hounds. I\\nhad hardly use for a gun. They jumped pell-mell,\\nsome into their canoes and some into the sea, to\\ncool off, I suppose, and there was a deal of free lan-\\nguage over it as they went. I fired several guns\\nwhen I came on deck, to let the rascals know that\\nI was home, and then I turned in again, feeling sure\\nI should not be disturbed any more by people who\\nleft in so great a hurry.\\nThe Fuegians, being cruel, are naturally cowards", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "104\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nthey regard a rifle with superstitious fear. The\\nonly real danger one could see that might come\\nfrom their quarter would be from allowing them to\\nsurround one within bow-shot, or to anchor within\\nThey howled like a pack of hounds.\\nrange where they might lie in ambush. As for\\ntheir coming on deck at night, even had I not put\\ntacks about, I could have cleared them off by\\nshots from the cabin and hold. I always kept a\\nquantity of ammunition within reach in the hold\\nand in the cabin and in the forepeak, so that\\n1", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "DANGER FROM FIREBRANDS 105\\nretreating to any of these places I could hold the\\nfort simply by shooting up through the deck.\\nPerhaps the greatest danger to be apprehended\\nwas from, the use of fire. Every canoe carries fire\\nnothing is thought of that, for it is their custom\\nto communicate by smoke-signals. The harmless\\nbrand that lies smoldering in the bottom of one of\\ntheir canoes might be ablaze in one s cabin if he\\nwere not on the alert. The port captain of Sandy\\nPoint warned me particularly of this danger. Only\\na short time before they had fired a Chilean gun-\\nboat by throwing brands in through the stern\\nwindows of the cabin. The Spray had no openings\\nin the cabin or deck, except two scuttles, and these\\nwere guarded by fastenings which could not be\\nundone without waking me if I were asleep.\\nOn the morning of the 9th, after a refreshing\\nrest and a warm breakfast, and after I had swept\\nthe deck of tacks, I got out what spare canvas\\nthere was on board, and began to sew the pieces\\ntogether in the shape of a peak for my square-\\nmainsail, the tarpaulin. The day to all appearances\\npromised fine weather and light winds, but appear-\\nances in Tierra del Fuego do not always count.\\nWhile I was wondering why no trees grew on the\\nslope abreast of the anchorage, half minded to lay\\nby the sail-making and land with my gun for some\\ngame and to inspect a, white boulder on the beach,\\nnear the brook, a williwaw came down with such\\nterrific force as to carry the Spray, with two\\nanchors down, like a feather out of the cove and\\naway into deep water. No wonder trees did not\\ngrow on the side of that hill! Great Boreas! a", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "106 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ntree would need to be all roots to hold on against\\nsuch a furious wind.\\nFrom the cove to the nearest land to leeward was\\na long drift, however, and I had ample time to\\nweigh both anchors before the sloop came near any\\ndanger, and so no harm came of it. I saw no more\\nsavages that day or the next they probably had\\nsome sign by which they knew of the coming willi-\\nwaws; at least, they were wise in not being afloat\\neven on the second day, for I had no sooner gotten\\nto work at sail-making again, after the anchor was\\ndown, than the wind, as on the day before, picked\\nthe sloop up and flung her seaward with a ven-\\ngeance, anchor and all, as before. This fierce wind,\\nusual to the Magellan country, continued on through\\nthe day, and swept the sloop by several miles of\\nsteep bluffs and precipices overhanging a bold\\nshore of wild and uninviting appearance. I was\\nnot sorry to get away from it, though in doing so\\nit was no Elysian shore to which I shaped my\\ncourse. I kept on sailing in hope, since I had no\\nchoice but to go on, heading across for St. Nicholas\\nBay, where I had cast anchor February 19. It was\\nnow the 10th of March Upon reaching the bay\\nthe second time I had circumnavigated the wildest\\npart of desolate Tierra del Fuego. But the Spray\\nhad not yet arrived at St. Nicholas, and by the\\nmerest accident her bones were saved from resting\\nthere when she did arrive. The parting of a stay-\\nsail-sheet in a williwaw, when the sea was turbulent\\nand she was plunging into the storm, brought me\\nforward to see instantly a dark cliff ahead and\\nbreakers so close under the bows that I felt surely", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "A SEEIES OF FIEECE WILLIWAWS\\n107\\nlost, and in my thoughts cried, Is the hand of fate\\nagainst me, after all, leading me in the end to this\\ndark spot I sprang aft again, unheeding the\\nflapping sail, and threw the wheel over, expecting,\\nas the sloop came down into the hollow of a wave,\\nto feel her timbers smash under me on the rocks.\\nA glimpse of Sandy Point (Punta Arenas) in the Strait of Magellan.\\nBut at the touch of her helm she swung clear of the\\ndanger, and in the next moment she was in the lee\\nof the land.\\nIt was the small island in the middle of the bay\\nfor which the sloop had been steering, and which\\nshe made with such unerring aim as nearly to run\\nit down. Farther along in the bay was the anchor-\\nage, which I managed to reach, but before I could", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "108 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nget the anchor down another squall caught the\\nsloop and whirled her round like a top and carried\\nher away, altogether to leeward of the bay. Still\\nfarther to leeward was a great headland, and I bore\\noff for that. This was retracing my course toward\\nSandy Point, for the gale was from the southwest.\\nI had the sloop soon under good control, how-\\never, and in a short time rounded to under the lee\\nof a mountain, where the sea was as smooth as a\\nmill-pond, and the sails flapped and hung limp\\nwhile she carried her way close in. Here I thought\\nI would anchor and rest till morning, the depth\\nbeing eight fathoms very close to the shore. But\\nit was interesting to see, as I let go the anchor,\\nthat it did not reach the bottom before another\\nwilliwaw struck down from this mountain and\\ncarried the sloop off faster than I could pay out\\ncable. Instead of resting, I had to man the wind-\\nlass and heave up the anchor and fifty fathoms of\\ncable hanging up and down in deep water. This\\nwas in that part of the strait called Famine Reach.\\nI could have wished it Jericho! On that little\\ncrab-windlass I worked the rest of the night, think-\\ning how much easier it was for me when I could\\nsay, Do that thing or the other, than to do it\\nmyself. But I hove away on the windlass and\\nsang the old chants that I sang when I was a sailor,\\nfrom Blow, Boys, Blow for Calif orny, 0 to\\nSweet By and By.\\nIt was daybreak when the anchor was at the\\nhawse. By this time the wind had gone down, and\\ncat s-paws took the place of williwaws. The sloop\\nwas then drifting slowly toward Sandy Point. She", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "AGAIN SAILING WESTWARD 109\\ncame within sight of ships at anchor in the roads,\\nand I was more than half minded to put in for new\\nsails, but the wind coming out from the northeast,\\nwhich was fair for the other direction, I turned\\nthe prow of the Spray westward once more for the\\nPacific, to traverse a second time the second half of\\nmy first course through the strait.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX\\nEepairing the Spray s sails Savages and an obstreperous anchor\\nA spider-fight An encounter with Black Pedro A visit to the\\nsteamship Colomhii On the defensive against a fleet of canoes\\nA record of voyages through the strait A chance cargo of\\ntallow.\\nI WAS determined to rely on my own small\\nresources to repair the damages of the great\\ngale which drove me southward toward the\\nHorn, after I had passed from the Strait of Ma-\\ngellan out into the Pacific. So when I had got\\nback into the strait, by way of Cockburn Channel,\\nI did not proceed eastward for help at the Sandy\\nPoint settlement, but turning again into the north-\\nwestward reach of the strait, set to work with my\\npalm and needle at every opportunity, when at\\nanchor and when sailing. It was slow work but\\nlittle by little the squaresail on the boom expanded\\nto the dimensions of a serviceable mainsail with a\\npeak to it and a leech besides. If it was not the\\nbest-setting sail afloat, it was at least very strongly\\nmade and would stand a hard blow. A ship, meet-\\ning the Spray long afterward, reported her as wear-\\ning a mainsail of some improved design and patent\\nreefer, but that was not the case.\\nThe Spray for a few days after the storm enjoyed\\nfine weather, and made fair time through the strait\\n110", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "SAVAGES AND AN OBSTREPEEOUS ANCHOR 111\\nfor the distance of twenty miles, which, in these\\ndays of many adversities, I called a long run. The\\nweather, I say, was fine for a few days; but it\\nbrought little rest. Care for the safety of my ves-\\nsel, and even for my own life, was in no wise les-\\nsened by the absence of heavy weather. Indeed,\\nthe peril was even greater, inasmuch as the savages\\non comparatively fine days ventured forth on their\\nmarauding excursions, and in boisterous weather\\ndisappeared from sight, their wretched canoes\\nbeing frail and undeserving the name of craft at all.\\nThis being so, I now enjoyed gales of wind as never\\nbefore, and the Sprmj was never long without them\\nduring her struggles about Cape Horn. I became\\nin a measure inured to the life, and began to think\\nthat one more trip through the strait, if perchance\\nthe sloop should be. blown off again, would make\\nme the aggressor, and put the Fuegians entirely on\\nthe defensive. This feeling was forcibly borne in\\non me at Snug Bay, where I anchored at gray\\nmorning after passing Cape Froward, to find, when\\nbroad day appeared, that two canoes which I had\\neluded by sailing all night were now entering the\\nsame bay stealthily under the shadow of the high\\nheadland. They were well manned, and the sav-\\nages were well armed with spears and bows. At\\na shot from my rifle across the bows, both turned\\naside into a small creek out of range. In danger\\nnow of being flanked by the savages in the bush\\nclose aboard, I was obliged to hoist the sails, which\\nI had barely lowered, and make across to the op-\\nposite side of the strait, a distance of six miles.\\nBut now I was put to my wit s end as to how I", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "112 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nshould weigh anchor, for through au accident to\\nthe windlass right here I could not budge it. How-\\never, I set all sail and filled away, first hauling\\nshort by hand. The sloop carried her anchor away,\\nas though it was meant to be always towed in this\\nway underfoot, and with it she towed a ton or more\\nof kelp from a reef in the bay, the wind blowing a\\nwholesale breeze.\\nMeanwhile I worked tiU blood started from my\\nfiogers, and with one eye over my shoulder for\\nsavages, I watched at the same time, and sent a\\nbullet whistling whenever I saw a limb or a twig-\\nmove; for I kept a gun always at hand, and an In-\\ndian appearing then mthin range would have been\\ntaken as a declaration of war. As it was, however,\\nmy own blood was all that was spilt and from the\\ntrifling accident of sometimes breaking the flesh\\nagainst a cleat or a pin which came in the way\\nwhen I was in haste. Sea-cuts in my hands from\\npulling on hard, wet ropes were sometimes painful\\nand often bled freely but these healed when I\\nfinally got away from the strait into fine weather.\\nAfter clearing Snug Bay I hauled the sloop to\\nthe wind, repaired the windlass, and hove the\\nanchor to the hawse, catted it, and then stretched\\nacross to a port of refuge under a high mountain\\nabout six miles away, and came to in nine fathoms\\nclose under the face of a perpendicular cliff. Here\\nmy own voice answered back, and I named the\\nplace Echo Mountain. Seeing dead trees farther\\nalong where the shore was broken, I made a landing\\nfor fuel, taking, besides my ax, a rifle, which on\\nthese days I never left far from hand but I saw", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "A SPIDER-FIGHT 113\\nno living thing here, except a small spider, which\\nhad nested in a dry log that I boated to the sloop.\\nThe conduct of this insect interested me now more\\nthan anything else around the wild place. In my\\ncabin it met, oddly enough, a spider of its own\\nsize and species that had come all the way from\\nBoston a very civil little chap, too, but mighty\\nspry. Well, the Fuegian threw up its antennae for\\na fight but my little Bostonian downed it at once,\\nthen broke its legs, and pulled them off, one by one,\\nso dexterously that in less than three minutes from\\nthe time the battle began the Fuegian spider did n t\\nknow itself from a fly.\\nI made haste the following morning to be under\\nway after a night of wakefulness on the weird\\nshore. Before weighing anchor, however, I pre-\\npared a cup of warm coffee over a smart wood fire\\nin my great Montevideo stove. In the same fire\\nwas cremated the Fuegian spider, slain the day be-\\nfore by the little warrior from Boston, which a\\nScots lady at Cape Town long after named Bruce\\nupon hearing of its prowess at Echo Mountain.\\nThe Sjpray now reached away for Coffee Island,\\nwhich I sighted on my birthday, February 20, 1896.\\nThere she encountered another gale, that brought\\nher in the lee of great Charles Island for shelter.\\nOn a bluff point on Charles were signal-fires, and\\na tribe of savages, mustered here since my first\\ntrip through the strait, manned their canoes to\\nput off for the sloop. It was not prudent to come\\nto, the anchorage being within bow-shot of the\\nshore, which was thickly wooded but I made signs\\nthat one canoe might come alongside, while the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "AN ENCOUNTER WITH BLACK PEDEO 115\\nsloop ranged about under sail in the lee of the\\nland. The others I motioned to keep off, and in-\\ncidentally laid a smart Martini-Henry rifle in sight\\nclose at hand, on the top of the cabin. In the\\ncanoe that came alongside, crying their never-end-\\ning begging word yammerschooner, were two\\nsquaws and one Indian, the hardest specimens of\\nhumanity I had ever seen in any of my travels.\\nYammerschooner was their plaint when they\\npushed off from the shore, and yammerschooner\\nit; was when they got alongside. The squaws beck-\\noned for food, while the Indian, a black-visaged\\nsavage, stood sulkily as if he took no interest at all\\nin the matter, but on my turning my back for some\\nbiscuits and jerked beef for the squaws, the buck\\nsprang on deck and confronted me, saying in Span-\\nish jargon that we had met before. I thought I\\nrecognized the tone of his yammerschooner, and\\nhis full beard identified him as the Black Pedro\\nwhom, it was true, I had met before. Where are\\nthe rest of the crew he asked, as he looked un-\\neasily around, expecting hands, maybe, to come\\nout of the fore-scuttle and deal him his just deserts\\nfor many murders. About three weeks ago,\\nsaid he, when you passed up here, I saw three\\nmen on board. Where are the other two I an-\\nswered him briefly that the same crew was still on\\nboard. But, said he, I see you are doing all\\nthe work, and with a leer he added, as he glanced\\nat the mainsail, hombre valiente. I explained\\nthat I did all the work m the day, while the rest\\nof the crew slept, so that they would be fresh to\\nwatch for Indians at night. I was interested in", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "116 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nthe subtle cunning of this savage, knowing him, as\\nI did, better perhaps than he was aware. Even\\nhad I not been advised before I sailed from Sandy\\nPoint, I should have measured him for an arch-\\n^dllain now. Moreover, one of the squaws, with\\nthat spark of kindliness which is somehow found\\nin the breast of even the lowest savage, warned me\\nby a sign to be on my guard, or Black Pedro would\\ndo me harm. There was no need of the warning,\\nhowever, for I was on my guard from the first, and\\nat that moment held a smart revolver in my hand\\nready for instant service.\\nWhen you sailed through here before, he said,\\nyou fired a shot at me, adding with some warmth\\nthat it was muy malo. I affected not to under-\\nstand, and said, You have lived at Sandy Point,\\nhave you not He answered frankly, Yes, and\\napj)eared delighted to meet one who had come from\\nthe dear old place. At the mission I queried.\\nWhy, yes, he replied, stepping forward as if to\\nembrace an old friend. I motioned him back, for\\nI did not share his flattering humor. And you\\nknow Captain Pedro Samblich continued I.\\nYes, said the ^dllain, who had killed a kinsman\\nof Samblich yes, indeed he is a great friend\\nof mine. I know it, said I. Samblich had told\\nme to shoot him on sight. Pointing to my rifle on\\nthe cabin, he wanted to know how many times it\\nfired. Cuantos said he. When I explained to\\nhim that that gun kept right on shooting, his jaw\\nfell, and he spoke of getting away. I did not hin-\\nder him from going. I gave the squaws biscuits\\nand beef, and one of them gave me several lumps", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "AN ENCOUNTER WITH BLACK PEDRO 117\\nof tallow in exchange, and I think it worth men-\\ntioning that she did not offer me the smallest\\npieces, but with some extra trouble handed me the\\nlargest of all the pieces in the canoe. No Christian\\ncould have done more. Before pushing off from\\nthe sloop the cunning savage asked for matches,\\nand made as if to reach with the end of his spear\\nthe box I was about to give him but I held it to-\\nward him on the muzzle of my rifle, the one that\\nkept on shooting. The chap picked the box off\\nthe gun gingerly enough, to be sure, but he jumped\\nwhen I said, Quedao [Look out], at which the\\nsquaws laughed and seemed not at all displeased.\\nPerhaps the wi-etch had clubbed them that morn-\\ning for not gathering mussels enough for his\\nbreakfast. There was a good understanding\\namong us all.\\nFrom Charles Island the Sprmj crossed over to\\nFortescue Bay, where she anchored and spent a\\ncomfortable night under the lee of high land, while\\nthe wind howled outside. The bay was deserted\\nnow. They were Fortescue Indians whom I had\\nseen at the island, and I felt quite sure they could\\nnot follow the Spray in the present hard blow. Not\\nto neglect a precaution, however, I sprinkled tacks\\non deck before I turned in.\\nOn the following day the loneliness of the place\\nwas broken by the appearance of a great steamship,\\nmaking for the anchorage with a lofty bearing.\\nShe was no Diego craft. I knew the sheer, the\\nmodel, and the poise. I threw out my flag, and\\ndirectly saw the Stars and Stripes flung to the\\nbreeze from the great ship.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "118 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nThe wind had then abated, and toward night\\nthe savages made their appearance from the island,\\ngoing du ect to the steamer to yammerschooner.\\nThen they came to the Spray to beg more, or to\\nsteal all, declaring that they got nothing from the\\nsteamer. Black Pedro here came alongside again.\\nMy own brother could not have been more de-\\nlighted to see me, and he begged me to lend him my\\nrifle to shoot a guanaco for me in the morning.\\nI assured the fellow that if I remained there an-\\nother day I would lend him the gun, but I had no\\nmind to remain. I gave him a cooper s draw-knife\\nand some other small implements which would be\\nof service in canoe-making, and bade him be off.\\nUnder the cover of darkness that night I went\\nto the steamer, which I found to be the Colombia,\\nCaptain Henderson, from New York, bound for San\\nFrancisco. I carried all my guns along with me, in\\ncase it should be necessary to fight my way back.\\nIn the chief mate of the Colombia, Mr. Hannibal, I\\nfound an old friend, and he referred affectionately\\nto days in Manila when we were there together, he\\nin the Southern Cross and I in the Northern Light,\\nboth ships as beautiful as their names.\\nThe Colombia had an abundance of fresh stores\\non board. The captain gave his steward some\\norder, and I remember that the guileless young\\nman asked me if I could manage, besides other\\nthings, a few cans of milk and a cheese. When I\\noffered my Montevideo gold for the supplies, the\\ncaptain roared like a lion and told me to put my\\nmoney up. It was a glorious outfit of provisions\\nof all kinds that I got.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "A VISIT TO THE STEAMSHIP COLOMBIA\\n119\\nReturning to the Spray where I found all secure,\\nI prepared for an early start in the morning. It\\nwas agreed that the steamer should blow her\\nwhistle for me if first on the move. I watched\\nA contrast in lighting the electric lights of the Colombia\\nand the canoe fires of the Fortescae Indians.\\nthe steamer, off and on, through the night for the\\npleasure alone of seeing her electric lights, a pleas-\\ning sight in contrast to the ordinary Fuegian\\ncanoe with a brand of fire in it. The sloop was\\nthe first under way, but the ColomUa, soon fol-\\nlowing, passed, and saluted as she went by. Had\\nthe captain given me his steamer, his company", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "120 SAiLiN^v- lLONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nwould have been no worse off than they were two\\nor three months later. I read afterward, in a late\\nCalifornia paper, The Colombia will be a total\\nloss. On her second trip to Panama she was\\nwrecked on the rocks of the California coast.\\nThe Spray was then beating against wind and\\ncurrent, as usual in the strait. At this point the\\ntides from the Atlantic and the Pacific meet, and\\nin the strait, as on the outside coast, their meet-\\ning makes a commotion of whirlpools and combers\\nthat in a gale of wind is dangerous to canoes and\\nother frail craft.\\nA few miles farther along was a large steamer\\nashore, bottom up. Passing this jDlace, the sloop\\nran into a streak of light wind, and then a most\\nremarkable condition for strait weather it fell\\nentirely calm. Signal-fires sprang up at once on\\nall sides, and then more than twenty canoes hove\\nin sight, all heading for the Spray. As they came\\nwithin hail, their savage crews cried, Amigo\\nyammerschooner, Anclas aqui, Bueno puerto\\naqui, and like scraps of Spanish mixed with their\\nown jargon. I had no thought of anchoring in\\ntheir good port. I hoisted the sloop s flag and\\nfired a gun, all of which they might construe as a\\nfriendly salute or an invitation to come on. They\\ndrew up in a semicircle, but kept outside of eighty\\nyards, which in self-defense would have been the\\ndeath-line.\\nIn their mosquito fleet was a ship s boat stolen\\nprobably from a murdered crew. Six savages\\npaddled this rather awkwardly with the blades of\\noars which had been broken off. Two of the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "ON THE DEFENSIVE AGAINST A FLEET OF CANOES 121\\nsavages standing erect wore sea-boots, and this\\nsustained the suspicion that they had fallen upon\\nsome luckless ship s crew, and also added a hint\\nthat they had already visited the Spray^s deck, and\\nwould now, if they could, try her again. Their\\nsea-boots, I have no doubt, would have protected\\ntheir feet and rendered carpet-tacks harmless.\\nPaddling clumsily, they passed down the strait\\nat a distance of a hundred yards from the sloop,\\nin an offhand manner and as if bound to Fortes-\\ncue Bay. This I judged to be a piece of strategy,\\nand so kept a sharp lookout over a small island\\nwhich soon came in range between them and\\nthe sloop, completely hiding them from view,\\nand toward which the Spray was now drifting\\nhelplessly with the tide, and with every prospect of\\ngoing on the rocks, for there was no anchorage, at\\nleast, none that my cables would reach. And, sure\\nenough, I soon saw a movement in the grass just\\non top of the island, which is called Bonet Island\\nand is one hundred and thirty-six feet high. I\\nfired several shots over the place, but saw no other\\nsign of the/ savages. It was they that had moved\\nthe grass, for as the sloop swept past the island,\\nthe rebound of the tide carrying her clear, there on\\nthe other side was the boat, surely enough ex-\\nposing their cunning and treachery. A stiff breeze,\\ncoming up suddenly, now scattered the canoes\\nwhile it extricated the sloop from a dangerous\\nposition, albeit the wind, though friendly, was still\\nahead.\\nThe Spray flogging against current and wind,\\nmade Borgia Bay on the following afternoon, and", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "122\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ncast anchor there for the second time. I would\\nnow, if I could, describe the moonlit scene on the\\nstrait at midnight after I had cleared the savages\\nand Bonet Island.\\nA heavy cloud-bank\\nthat had swept across\\nthe sky then cleared\\naway, and the night\\nbecame suddenly as\\nlight as day, or nearly\\nso. A high moun-\\ntain was mirrored in\\nthe channel ahead,\\nand the Spray sail-\\ning along with\\nher shadow was as\\ntwo sloops on the\\nsea.\\nThe sloop being\\nmoored, I threw out\\nmy skiff, and with ax\\nand gun landed at\\nthe head of the cove,\\nand filled a barrel of\\nwater from a stream.\\nThen, as before, there\\nwas no sign of Indians at the place. Finding it\\nquite deserted, I rambled about near the beach for\\nan hour or more. The fine weather seemed, some-\\nhow, to add loneliness to the place, and when I\\ncame upon a spot where a grave was marked I\\nwent no farther. Eeturning to the head of the\\ncove, I came to a sort of Calvary, it appeared to\\nRecords of passages through the\\nstrait at the head of Borgia Bay.\\nNote.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 On a small buab nearer the water there was a\\nboard bearing several other mscriptions, to which\\nwere added the words Sloop Spray, March, 1896.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "A KECOED OF VOYAGES THROUGH THE STRAIT 123\\nme, where navigators, carrying their cross, had\\neach set one up as a beacon to others coming\\nafter. They had anchored here and gone on, all\\nexcept the one under the little mound. One of\\nthe simple marks, curiously enough, had been left\\nthere by the steamship Colimhia, sister ship to the\\nColombia, my neighbor of that morning.\\nI read the names of many other vessels some of\\nthem I copied in my journal, others were illegible.\\nMany of the crosses had decayed and fallen, and\\nmany a hand that put them there I had known,\\nmany a hand now still. The air of depression was\\nabout the place, and I hurried back to the sloop to\\nforget myself again in the voyage.\\nEarly the next morning I stood out from Borgia\\nBay, and off Cape Quod, where the wind fell light,\\nI moored the sloop by kelp in twenty fathoms of\\nwarter, and held her there a few hours against a\\nthree-knot current. That night I anchored in\\nLangara Cove, a few miles farther along, where on\\nthe following day I discovered wreckage and goods\\nwashed up from the sea. I worked all day now,\\nsalving and boating off a cargo to the sloop. The\\nbulk of the goods was tallow in casks and in lumps\\nfrom which the casks had broken away; and em-\\nbedded in the seaweed was a barrel of wine, which\\nI also towed alongside. I hoisted them all in with\\nthe throat-halyards, which I took to the windlass.\\nThe weight of some of the casks was a little over\\neight hundred pounds.\\nThere were no Indians about Langara evidently\\nthere had not been any since the great gale which\\nhad washed the wreckage on shore. Probably it", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "A CHANCE CAEGO OF TALLOW 125\\nwas the same gale that drove the Spray off Cape\\nHorn, from March 3 to 8. Hundreds of tons of\\nkelp had been torn from beds in deep water and\\nrolled np into ridges on the beach. A specimen\\nstalk which I found entire, roots, leaves, and all,\\nmeasured one hundred and thirty-one feet in\\nlength. At this place I filled a barrel of water at\\nnight, and on the following day sailed with a fair\\nwind at last.\\nI had not sailed far, however, when I came\\nabreast of more tallow in a small cove, where I\\nanchored, and boated off as before. It rained and\\nsnowed hard all that day, and it was no light work\\ncarrying tallow in my arms over the boulders on\\nthe beach. But I worked on till the Spray was\\nloaded with a full cargo. I was happy then in the\\nprospect of doing a good business farther along on\\nthe voyage, for the habits of an old trader would\\ncome to the surface. I sailed from the cove about\\nnoon, greased from top to toe, while my vessel was\\ntallowed from keelson to truck. My cabin, as well\\nas the hold and deck, was stowed full of tallow,\\nand all were thoroughly smeared.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X\\nRunning to Port Angosto in a snow-storm A defective sheet-\\nrope places the Spray in peril The Spray as a target for a Fue-\\ngian arrow The island of Alan Erric Again in the open\\nPacific The run to the island of Juan Fernandez An ab-\\nsentee king At Robinson Crusoe s anchorage.\\nANOTHER gale had then sprung up, but the\\nJr\\\\. wind was still fair, and I had only twenty-six\\nmiles to run for Port Angosto, a dreary enough\\nplace, where, however, I would find a safe harbor in\\nwhich to refit and stow cargo. I carried on sail to\\nmake the harbor before dark, and she fairly flew\\nalong, all covered with snow, which fell thick\\nand fast, till she looked like a white winter bird.\\nBetween the storm-bursts I saw the headland of\\nmy port, and was steering for it when a flaw of\\nwind caught the mainsail by the lee, jibed it over,\\nand dear dear how nearly was this the cause of\\ndisaster; for the sheet parted and the boom un-\\nshipped, and it was then close upon night. I\\nworked till the perspiration poured from my body\\nto get things adjusted and in working order before\\ndark, and, above all, to get it done before the sloop\\ndrove to leeward of the port of refuge. Even then\\nI did not get the boom shipped in its saddle. I\\nwas at the entrance of the harbor before I could", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "A DEFECTIVE SHEET-ROPE 127\\nget this done, and it was time to haul her to or lose\\nthe port; but in that condition, like a bird with\\na broken wing, she made the haven. The accident\\nwhich so jeopardized my vessel and cargo came\\nof a defective sheet-rope, one made from sisal, a\\ntreacherous fiber which has caused a deal of strong\\nlanguage among sailors.\\nI did not run the Spray into the inner harbor of\\nPort Angosto, but came to inside a bed of kelp\\nunder a steep bluff on the port hand going in. It\\nwas an exceedingly snug nook, and to make doubly\\nsure of holding on here against all williwaws I\\nmoored her with two anchors and secured her,\\nbesides, by cables to trees. However, no wind\\never reached there except back flaws from the\\nmountains on the opposite side of the harbor.\\nThere, as elsewhere in that region, the country was\\nmade up of mountains. This was the place where\\nI was to refit and whence I was to sail direct, once\\nmore, for Cape Pillar and the Pacific.\\nI remained at Port Angosto some days, busily\\nemployed about the sloop. I stowed the tallow\\nfrom the deck to the hold, arranged my cabin in\\nbetter order, and took in a good supply of wood\\nand water. I also mended the sloop s sails and rig-\\nging, and fitted a jigger, which changed the rig to\\na yawl, though I called the boat a sloop just the\\nsame, the jigger being merely a temporary affair.\\nI never forgot, even at the busiest time of my\\nwork there, to have my rifle by me ready for in-\\nstant use for I was of necessity within range of\\nsavages, and I had seen Fuegian canoes at this\\nplace when I anchored in the port, farther down", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "128 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nthe reach, on the first trip through the strait. I\\nthink it was on the second day, while I was busily\\nemployed about decks, that I heard the swish of\\nsomething through the air close by my ear, and\\nheard a zip -like sound in the water, but saw\\nnothing. Presently, however, I suspected that it\\nwas an arrow of some sort, for just then one pass-\\ning not far from me struck the mainmast, where it\\nstuck fast, vibrating from the shock a Fuegian\\nautograph. A savage was somewhere near, there\\ncould be no doubt about that. I did not know but\\nhe might be shooting at me, with a view to getting\\nmy sloop and her cargo and so I threw up my old\\nMartini-Henry, the rifle that kept on shooting, and\\nthe first shot uncovered three Fuegians, who scam-\\npered from a clump of bushes where they had been\\nconcealed, and made over the hills. I fired away a\\ngood many cartridges, aiming under their feet to\\nencourage their climbing. My dear old gun woke\\nup the hills, and at every report all three of the\\nsavages jumped as if shot but they kept oh, and\\nput Fuego real estate between themselves and the\\nSpray as fast as their legs could carry them. I\\ntook care then, more than ever before, that all my\\nfirearms should be in order and that a supply of\\nammunition should always be ready at hand. But\\nthe savages did nt)t return, and although I put\\ntacks on deck every night, I never discovered that\\nany more visitors came, and I had only to sweep\\nthe deck of tacks carefully every morning after.\\nAs the days went by, the season became more\\nfavorable for a chance to clear the strait with a\\nfair wind, and so I made up my mind after six", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "THE SPEAY A TAEGET FOR FUEGIAN AEEOWS 129\\nThe first shot uncovered three Fuegians.\\nattempts, being driven back each time, to be in\\nno further haste to sail. The bad weather on my\\nlast return to Port Angosto for shelter brought the\\nChilean gunboat Condor and the Argentine cruiser", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "130 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nAzopardo into port. As soon as the latter came to\\nanchor, Captain Mascarella, the commander, sent a\\nboat to the Spray with the message that he would\\ntake me in tow for Sandy Point if I would give up\\nthe voyage and return- the thing farthest from\\nmy mind. The officers of the Azopardo told me\\nthat, coming up the strait after the Spray on her\\nfirst passage through, they saw Black Pedro and\\nlearned that he had visited me. The Azopardo,\\nbeing a foreign man-of-war, had no right to arrest\\nthe Fuegian outlaw, but her captain blamed me for\\nnot shooting the rascal when he came to my sloop.\\nI procured some cordage and other small sup-\\nplies from these vessels, and the officers of each of\\nthem mustered a supply of warm flannels, of which\\nI was most in need. With these additions to my\\noutfit, and with the vessel in good trim, though\\nsomewhat deeply laden, I was well prepared for\\nanother bout with the Southern, misnamed Pacific,\\nOcean.\\nIn the first week in April southeast winds, such\\nas appear about Cape Horn in the fall and winter\\nseasons, bringing better weather than that experi-\\nenced in the summer, began to disturb the upper\\nclouds a little more patience, and the time would\\ncome for sailing with a fair wind.\\nAt Port Angosto I met Professor Dusen of the\\nSwedish scientific expedition to South America\\nand the Pacific Islands. The professor was camped\\nby the side of a brook at the head of the harbor,\\nwhere there were many varieties of moss, in which\\nhe was interested, and where the water was, as his\\nArgentine cook said, muy rico. The professor", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "THE SPRAY AT PORT ANGOSTO 131\\nhad three well-armed Argentines along in his camp\\nto fight savages. They seemed disgusted when I\\nfilled water at a small stream near the vessel, slight-\\ning their advice to go farther up to the greater\\nbrook, where it was muy rico. But they were all\\nfine fellows, though it was a wonder that they did\\nnot all die of rheumatic pains from living on wet\\nground.\\nOf all the little haps and mishaps to the Spray at\\nPort Angosto, of the many attempts to put to sea,\\nand of each return for shelter, it is not my purpose\\nto speak. Of hindrances there were many to keep\\nher back, but on the thirteenth day of April, and for\\nthe seventh and last time, she weighed anchor from\\nthat port. Difficulties, however, multiplied all\\nabout in so strange a manner that had I been given\\nto superstitious fears I should not have persisted\\nin sailing on a thirteenth day, notwithstanding\\nthat a fair wind blew in the offing. Many of the\\nincidents were ludicrous. When I found myself,\\nfor instance, disentangling the sloop s mast from\\nthe branches of a tree after she had drifted three\\ntimes around a small island, against my will, it\\nseemed more than one s nerves could bear, and I\\nhad to speak about it, so I thought, or die of lock-\\njaw, and I apostrophized the Spray as an impatient\\nfarmer might his horse or his ox. Did n t you\\nknow, cried I did n t you know that you\\ncould n t climb a tree But the poor old Spray\\nhad essayed, and successfully too, nearly every-\\nthing else in the Strait of Magellan, and my heart\\nsoftened toward her when I thought of what she\\nhad gone through. Moreover, she had discovered", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "132 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nan island. On the charts this one that she had\\nsailed around was traced as a point of land. I\\nnamed it Alan Erric Island, after a worthy literary\\nfriend whom I had met in strange by-places, and I\\nput up a sign, Keep off the grass, which, as dis-\\ncoverer, was within my rights.\\nNow at last the Spray carried me free of Tierra\\ndel Fuego. If by a close shave only, still she car-\\nried me clear, though her boom actually hit the\\nbeacon rocks to leeward as she lugged on sail to\\nclear the point. The thing was done on the 13th\\nof April, 1896. But a close shave and a narrow\\nescape were nothing new to the Spray.\\nThe waves doffed their white caps beautifully to\\nher in the strait that day before the southeast\\nwind, the first true winter breeze of the season\\nfrom that quarter, and here she was out on the\\nfirst of it, with every prospect of clearing Cape\\nPillar before it should shift. So it turned out\\nthe wind blew hard, as it always blows about Cape\\nHorn, but she had cleared the great tide-race off\\nCape Pillar and the Evangelistas, the outermost\\nrocks of all, before the change came. I remained\\nat the helm, humoring my vessel in the cross seas,\\nfor it was rough, and I did not dare to let her take\\na straight course. It was necessary to change her\\ncourse in the combing seas, to meet them with\\nwhat skill I could when they rolled up ahead, and\\nto keep off when they came up abeam.\\nOn the following morning, April 14, only the\\ntops of the highest mountains were in sight, and\\nthe Spray making good headway on a northwest\\ncourse, soon sank these out of sight. Hurrah for", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "AGAIN IN THE OPEN PACIFIC 133\\nthe Spray I shouted to seals, sea-gulls, and pen-\\nguins for there were no other living creatures\\nabout, and she had weathered all the dangers of\\nCape Horn. Moreover, she had on her voyage\\nround the Horn salved a cargo of which she had\\nnot jettisoned a pound. And why should not one\\nrejoice also in the main chance coming so of itself\\nI shook out a reef, and set the whole jib, for,\\nhaving sea-room, I could square away two points.\\nThis brought the sea more on her quarter, and she\\nwas the wholesomer under a press of sail. Occa-\\nsionally an old southwest sea, rolhng up, combed\\nathwart her, but did no harm. The wind freshened\\nas the sun rose half-mast or more, and the air, a bit\\nchilly in the morning, softened later in the day\\nbut I gave little thought to such things as these.\\nOne wave, in the evening, larger than others that\\nhad threatened all day, one such as sailors call\\nfine-weather seas, broke over the sloop fore\\nand aft. It washed over me at the helm, the last\\nthat swept over the Spray off Cape Horn. It\\nseemed to wash away old regrets. All my troubles\\nwere now astern summer was ahead all the world\\nwas again before me. The wind was even liter-\\nally fair. My trick at the wheel was now up,\\nand it was 5 p. m. I had stood at the helm since\\neleven o clock the morning before, or thirty hours.\\nThen was the time to uncover my head, for I\\nsailed alone with God. The vast ocean was again\\naround me, and the horizon was unbroken by land.\\nA few days later the Spray was under full sail, and\\nI saw her for the first time with a jigger spread.\\nThis was indeed a small incident, but it was the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "134 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WOELD\\nincident following a triumph. The wind was still\\nsouthwest, but it had moderated, and roaring seas\\nhad turned to gossiping waves that rippled and\\npattered against her sides as she rolled among\\nthem, delighted with their story. Rapid changes\\nwent on, those days, in things all about while she\\nheaded for the tropics. New species of birds came\\naround; albatrosses fell back and became scarcer\\nand scarcer lighter gulls came in their stead, and\\npecked for crumbs in the sloop s wake.\\nOn the tenth day from Cape Pillar a shark came\\nalong, the first of its kind on this part of the voy-\\nage to get into trouble. I harpooned him and took\\nout his ugly jaws. I had not till then felt inclined\\nto take the life of any animal, but when John\\nShark hove in sight my sympathy flew to the\\nwinds. It is a fact that in Magellan I let pass\\nmany ducks that would have made a good stew,\\nfor I had no mind in the lonesome strait to take\\nthe life of any living thing.\\nFrom Cape Pillar I steered for Juan Fernandez,\\nand on the 26th of April, fifteen days out, made\\nthat historic island right ahead.\\nThe blue hills of Juan Fernandez, high among\\nthe clouds, could be seen about thirty miles off.\\nA thousand emotions thrilled me when I saw the\\nisland, and I bowed my head to the deck. We\\nmay mock the Oriental salaam, but for my part I\\ncould find no other way of expressing myself.\\nThe wind being light through the day, the Spray\\ndid not reach the island till night. With what wind\\nthere was to fill her sails she stood close in to shore\\non the northeast side, where it fell calm and remained", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "THE EUN TO JUAN FERNANDEZ\\n135\\nSO all night. I saw the twinkling of a small light\\nfarther along in a cove, and fired a gun, but got no\\nanswer, and soon the light disappeared altogether.\\nI heard the sea booming against the cliffs all\\nnight, and realized that the ocean swell was still\\nIf\\nHg^\\nThe Spray approacMng\\nJuan Fernandez, Rob-\\ninson Crusoe s Island.\\ngreat, although from the deck\\nof my little ship it was appa-\\nrently small. From the cry of\\nanimals in the hills, which\\nsounded fainter and fainter\\nthrough the night, I judged\\nthat a light current was drift-\\ning the sloop from the land,\\nthough she seemed all night\\ndangerously near the shore, for, the land being very\\nhigh, appearances were deceptive.\\nSoon after daylight I saw a boat putting out\\ntoward me. As it pulled near, it so happened that\\nI picked up my gun, which was on the deck, mean-\\ning only to put it below; but the people in the\\nboat, seeing the piece in my hands, quickly turned\\nand pulled back for shore, which was about four\\nmiles distant. There were six rowers in her, and I\\nobserved that they pulled with oars in oar-locks,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "136 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nafter the manner of trained seamen, and so I knew\\nthey belonged to a civilized race but their opinion\\nof me must have been anything but flattering\\nwhen they mistook my purpose with the gun and\\npulled away with all their might. I made them\\nunderstand by signs, but not without difficulty,\\nthat I did not intend to shoot, that I was simply\\nputting the piece in the cabin, and that I wished\\nthem to return. When they understood my mean-\\ning they came back and were soon on board.\\nOne of the party, whom the rest called king,\\nspoke English; the others spoke Spanish. They\\nhad all heard of the voyage of the Spray through\\nthe papers of Valparaiso, and were hungry for\\nnews concerning it. They told me of a war be-\\ntween Chile and the Argentine, which I had not\\nheard of when I was there. I had just visited both\\ncountries, and I told them that according to the\\nlatest reports, while I was in Chile, their own\\nisland was sunk. (This same report that Juan\\nFernandez had sunk was current in Australia\\nwhen I arrived there three months later.)\\nI had already prepared a pot of coffee and a\\nplate of doughnuts, which, after some words of\\ncivility, the islanders stood up to and discussed\\nwith a will, after which they took the Spray in\\ntow of their boat and made toward the island\\nwith her at the rate of a good three knots. The\\nman they called king took the helm, and with\\nwhirling it up and down he so rattled the Spray\\nthat I thought she would never carry herself\\nstraight again. The others pulled away lustily\\nwith their oars. The king, I soon learned, was", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "AT EOBINSON CEUSOE S ANCHORAGE 137\\nking only by courtesy. Having lived longer on\\nthe island than any other man in the world,\\nthirty years, he was so dubbed. Juan Fernan-\\ndez was then under the administration of a gover-\\nnor of Swedish nobility, so I was told. I was also\\ntold that his daughter could ride the wildest goat\\non the island. The governor, at the time of my\\nvisit, was away at Valparaiso with his family, to\\nplace his children at school. The king had been\\naway once for a year or two, and in Rio de Ja-\\nneiro had married a Brazilian woman who followed\\nhis fortunes to the far-off island. He was himself\\na Portuguese and a native of the Azores. He had\\nsailed in New Bedford whale-ships and had steered\\na boat. All this I learned, and more too, before we\\nreached the anchorage. The sea-breeze, coming in\\nbefore long, filled the Spray^s sails, and the ex-\\nperienced Portuguese mariner piloted her to a safe\\nberth in the bay, where she was moored to a buoy\\nabreast the settlement.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "CHAPTEE XI\\nThe islanders at Juan Fernandez entertained with Yankee dough-\\nnuts The beauties of Robinson Crusoe s realm The mountain\\nmonument to Alexander Selkirk Robinson Crusoe s cave A\\nstroll with the children of the island Westward ho! with a\\nfriendly gale A month s free sailing with the Southern Cross\\nand the sun for guides Sighting the Marquesas Experience in\\nreckoning.\\nTHE Spray being secured, the islanders returned\\nto the coffee and doughnuts, and I was more\\nthan flattered when they did not slight my buns, as\\nthe professor had done in the Strait of Magellan.\\nBetween buns and doughnuts there was little\\ndifference except in name. Both had been fried\\nin tallow, which was the strong point in both, for\\nthere was nothing on the island fatter than a goat,\\nand a goat is but a lean beast, to make the best of\\nit. So with a view to business I hooked my steel-\\nyards to the boom at once, ready to weigh out\\ntallow, there being no customs officer to say, Why\\ndo you do so and before the sun went down the\\nislanders had learned the art of making buns and\\ndoughnuts. I did not charge a high price for what\\nI sold, but the ancient and curious coins I got in\\npayment, some of them from the wreck of a galleon\\nsunk in the bay no one knows when, I sold after-\\nward to antiquarians for more than face-value.\\nIn this way I made a reasonable profit. I brought\\n138", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "BEAUTIES OF ROBINSON CEUSOE S REALM 139\\naway money of all denominations from the island,\\nand nearly all there was, so far as I could find\\nout.\\nJuan Fernandez, as a place of call, is a lovely\\nspot. The hills are well wooded, the valleys fer-\\nThe house of the king.\\ntile, and pouring down through many ravines are\\nstreams of pure water. There are no serpents on\\nthe island, and no wild beasts other than pigs and\\ngoats, of which I saw a number, with possibly a\\ndog or two. The people lived without the use of\\nrum or beer of any sort. There was not a police\\nofficer or a lawyer among them. The domestic\\neconomy of the island was simplicity itself. The\\nfashions of Paris did not affect the inhabitants\\neach dressed according to his own taste. Although\\nthere was no doctor, the people were all healthy.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "140\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nand the children were all beautiful. There were\\nabout forty-five souls on the island all told. The\\nadults were mostly from the mainland of South\\nRobinson Crusoe s cave.\\nAmerica. One lady there, from Chile, who made a\\nflying- jib for the Spray, taking her pay in tallow,\\nwould be called a belle at Newport. Blessed island\\nof Juan Fernandez Why Alexander Selkkk ever\\nleft you was more than I could make out.\\nA large ship which had arrived some time be-\\nfore, on fire, had been stranded at the head of the\\nbay, and as the sea smashed her to pieces on the\\nrocks, after the fire was drowned, the islanders\\npicked up the timbers and utilized them in the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "MONUMENT TO ALEXANDER SELKIRK 141\\nconstruction of houses, which naturally presented\\na ship-like appearance. The house of the king of\\nJuan Fernandez, Manuel Carroza by name, besides\\nresembling the ark, wore a polished brass knocker\\non its only door, which was painted green. In\\nfront of this gorgeous entrance was a flag-mast all\\nataunto, and near it a smart whale-boat painted\\nred and blue, the delight of the king s old age.\\nI of course made a pilgrimage to the old lookout\\nplace at the top of the mountain, where Selkirk\\nspent many days peering into the distance for\\nthe ship which came at last. From a tablet fixed\\ninto the face of the rock I copied these words, in-\\nscribed in Arabic capitals\\nIN MEMORY\\nOF\\nALEXANDER SELKIRK,\\nMARINER,\\nA native of Largo, in the county of Fife, Scotland, who lived\\non this island in complete solitude for four years and four\\nmonths. He was landed from the Cinque Ports galley, 96 tons,\\n18 guns, A. D. 1704, and was taken off in the Bulce, privateer,\\n12th February, 1709. He died Lieutenant of H. M. S. Wey-\\nmouth, A. D. 1723,1 aged 47. This tablet is erected near Sel-\\nkirk s lookout, by Commodore Powell and the officers of\\nH. M. S. Topaze, A. d. 1868.\\nThe cave in which Selkirk dwelt while on the\\nisland is at the head of the bay now called Eobin-\\n1 Mr. J. Cuthbert Hadden, in the Century Magazine for July, 1899,\\nshows that the tablet is in error as to the year of Selkirk s death. It\\nshould be 1721.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "142 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nson Crusoe Bay. It is around a bold headland\\nwest of the present anchorage and landing. Ships\\nhave anchored there, but it affords a very indiffer-\\nent berth. Both of these anchorages are exposed\\nto north winds, which, however, do not reach home\\nwith much violence. The holding-ground being\\ngood in the first-named bay to the eastward, the\\nanchorage there may be considered safe, although\\nthe undertow at times makes it wild riding.\\nI visited Robinson Crusoe Bay in a boat, and\\nwith some difficulty landed through the surf near\\nthe cave, which I entered. I found it dry and in-\\nhabitable. It is located in a beautiful nook shel-\\ntered by high mountains from all the severe storms\\nthat sweep over the island, which are not many\\nfor it lies near the limits of the trade-wind regions,\\nbeing in latitude 35^\u00c2\u00b0 S. The island is about four-\\nteen miles in length, east and west, and eight miles\\nin width; its height is over three thousand feet.\\nIts distance from Chile, to which country it be-\\nlongs, is about three hundred and forty miles.\\nJuan Fernandez was once a convict station. A\\nnumber of caves in which the prisoners were kept,\\ndamp, unwholesome dens, are no longer in use, and\\nno more prisoners are sent to the island.\\nThe pleasantest day I spent on the island, if not\\nthe pleasantest on my whole voyage, was my last\\nday on shore, but by no means because it was the\\nlast, when the children of the little community,\\none and all, went out with me to gather wild fruits\\nfor the voyage. We found quinces, peaches, and\\nfigs, and the children gathered a basket of each.\\nIt takes very little to please children, and these", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "A STROLL WITH THE CHILDREN\\n143\\nThe man who called a cabra a goat.\\nlittle ones, never hearing a word in their lives\\nexcept Spanish, made the hills ring with mirth\\nat the sound of words in English. They asked\\nme the names of all manner of things on the island.\\nWe came to a wild fig-tree loaded with fruit, of\\nwhich I gave them the English name. Figgies,\\nfiggies they cried, while they picked till their\\nbaskets were full. But when I told them that the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "144 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ncabra they pointed out was only a goat, they\\nscreamed with laughter, and rolled on the grass in\\nwild delight to think that a man had come to their\\nisland who would call a cabra a goat.\\nThe first child born on Juan Fernandez, I was\\ntold, had become a beautiful woman and was now\\na mother. Manuel Carroza and the good soul who\\nfollowed him here from Brazil had laid away their\\nonly child, a girl, at the age of seven, in the little\\nchurchyard on the point. In the same half-acre\\nwere other mounds among the rough lava rocks,\\nsome marking the burial-place of native-born chil-\\ndren, some the resting-places of seamen from pass-\\ning ships, landed here to end days of sickness and\\nget into a sailors heaven.\\nThe greatest drawback I saw in the island was\\nthe want of a school. A class there would neces-\\nsarily be small, but to some kind soul who loved\\nteaching and quietude life on Juan Fernandez\\nwould, for a limited time, be one of delight.\\nOn the morning of May 5, 1896, I sailed from\\nJuan Fernandez, having feasted on many things,\\nbut on nothing sweeter than the adventure itself\\nof a visit to the home and to the very cave of Eob-\\ninson Crusoe. From the island the Spray bore away\\nto the north, passing the island of St. Felix before\\nshe gained the trade-winds, which seemed slow in\\nreaching their limits.\\nIf the trades were tardy, however, when they did\\ncome they came with a bang, and made up for lost\\ntime and the Spray, under reefs, sometimes one,\\nsometimes two, flew before a gale for a great many\\ndays, with a bone in her mouth, toward the Mar-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "A MONTH S FREE SAILING 145\\nquesas, in the west, whicli she made on the forty-\\nthird day out, and still kept on sailing. My time\\nwas all taken np those days not by standing at\\nthe helm no man, I think, could stand or sit and\\nsteer a vessel round, the world I did better than\\nthat; for I sat and read my books, mended my\\nclothes, or cooked my meals and ate them in peace.\\nI had already found that it was not good to be\\nalone, and so I made companionship with what\\nthere was around me, sometimes with the universe\\nand sometimes with my own insignificant self but\\nmy books were always my friends, let fail all else.\\nNothing could be easier or more restful than my\\nvoyage in the trade-winds.\\nI sailed with a free wind day after day, marking\\nthe position of my ship on the chart with consid-\\nerable precision but this was done by intuition, I\\nthink, more than by slavish calculations. For one\\nwhole month my vessel held her course true I had\\nnot, the while, so much as a light in the binnacle.\\nThe Southern Cross I saw every night abeam. The\\nsun every morning came up astern every evening\\nit went down ahead. I wished for no other com-\\npass to guide me, for these were true. If I doubted\\nmy reckoning after a long time at sea I verified it\\nby reading the clock aloft made by the Great\\nArchitect, and it was right.\\nThere was no denying that the comical side of the\\nstrange life appeared. I awoke, sometimes, to find\\nthe sun already shining into my cabin. I heard\\nwater rushing by, with only a thin plank between\\nme and the depths, and I said, How is this! But\\nit was all right it was my ship on her course, sailing", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "146 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nas no other ship had ever sailed before in the world.\\nThe rushing water along her side told me that she\\nwas sailing at full speed. I knew that no human\\nhand was at the helm I knew that all was well with\\nthe hands forward, and that there was no\\nmutiny on board.\\nThe phenomena of ocean meteorology were inter-\\nesting studies even here in the trade-winds. I\\nobserved that about every seven days the wind\\nfreshened and drew several points farther than\\nusual from the direction of the pole that is, it went\\nround from east-southeast to south-southeast, while\\nat the same time a heavy swell rolled up from the\\nsouthwest. All this indicated that gales were\\ngoing on in the anti-trades. The wind then hauled\\nday after day as it moderated, till it stood again at\\nthe normal point, east-southeast. This is more or\\nless the constant state of the winter trades in lati-\\ntude 12\u00c2\u00b0 S., where I ran down the longitude for\\nweeks. The sun, we all know, is the creator of the\\ntrade-winds and of the wind system over all the\\nearth. But ocean meteorology is, I think, the most\\nfascinating of all. From Juan Fernandez to the\\nMarquesas I experienced six changes of these great\\npalpitations of sea- winds and of the sea itself, the\\neffect of far-off gales. To know the laws that\\ngovern the winds, and to know that you know\\nthem, will give you an easy mind on your voyage\\nround the world; otherwise you may tremble at\\nthe appearance of every cloud. What is true of\\nthis in the trade-winds is much more so in the\\nvariables, where changes run more to extremes.\\nTo cross the Pacific Ocean, even under the most", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "SIGHTINa THE MARQUESAS 147\\nfavorable circumstances, brings you for many days\\nclose to nature, and you realize the vastness of the\\nsea. Slowly but surely the mark of my little ship s\\ncourse on the track-chart reached out on the ocean\\nand across it, while at her utmost speed she marked\\nwith her keel still slowly the sea that carried her.\\nOn the forty-third day from land, a long time to\\nbe at sea alone, the sky being beautifully clear\\nand the moon being in distance with the sun, I\\nthrew up my sextant for sights. I found from the\\nresult of three observations, after long wrestling\\nwith lunar tables, that her longitude by observa-\\ntion agreed within five miles of that by dead-\\nreckoning.\\nThis was wonderful both, however, might be in\\nerror, but somehow I felt confident that both were\\nnearly true, and that in a few hours more I should\\nsee land and so it happened, for then I made the\\nisland of Nukahiva, the southernmost of the Mar-\\nquesas group, clear-cut and lofty. The verified\\nlongitude when abreast was somewhere between\\nthe two reckonings this was extraordinary. All\\nnavigators will tell you that from one day to\\nanother a ship may lose or gain more than five\\nmiles in her sailing-account, and again, in the\\nmatter of lunars, even expert lunarians are con-\\nsidered as doing clever work when they average\\nwithin eight miles of the truth.\\nI hope I am making it clear that I do not lay\\nclaim to cleverness or to slavish calculations in\\nmy reckonings. I think I have already stated that\\nI kept my longitude, at least, mostly by intuition.\\nA rotator log always towed astern, but so much", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "148 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nhas to be allowed for currents and for drift, which\\nthe log never shows, that it is only an approxima-\\ntion, after all, to be corrected by one s own judg-\\nment from data of a thousand voyages and even\\nthen the master of the ship, if he be wise, cries out\\nfor the lead and the lookout.\\nUnique was my experience in nautical astronomy\\nfrom the deck of the Spray so much so that I\\nfeel justified in briefly telling it here. The first set\\nof sightS; just spoken of, put her many hundred\\nmiles west of my reckoning by account. I knew\\nthat this could not be correct. In about an hour s\\ntime I took another set of observations with the\\nutmost care; the mean result of these was about\\nthe same as that of the first set. I asked myself\\nwhy, with my boasted self-dependence, I had not\\ndone at least better than this. Then I went in\\nsearch of a discrepancy in the tables, and I found\\nit. In the tables I found that the column of figures\\nfrom which I had got an important logarithm was\\nin error. It was a matter I could prove beyond a\\ndoubt, and it made the difference as already stated.\\nThe tables being corrected, I sailed on with self-\\nreliance unshaken, and with my tin clock fast\\nasleep. The result of these observations naturally\\ntickled my vanity, for I knew that it was some-\\nthing to stand on a great ship s deck and with two\\nassistants take lunar observations approximately\\nnear the truth. As one of the poorest of American\\nsailors, I was proud of the little achievement alone\\non the sloop, even by chance though it may have\\nbeen.\\nI was en rapport now with my surroundings, and", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "EXPERIENCE IN RECKONINa 149\\nwas carried on a vast stream where I felt the buoy-\\nancy of His hand who made all the worlds. I real-\\nized the mathematical* truth of their motions, so\\nwell known that astronomers compile tables of their\\npositions through the years and the days, and the\\nminutes of a day, with such precision that one com-\\ning along ovel* the sea even five years later may,\\nby their aid, find the standard time of any given\\nmeridian on the earth.\\nTo find local time is a simpler matter. The dif-\\nference between local and standard time is longi-\\ntude expressed in time four minutes, we all know,\\nrepresenting one degree. This, briefly, is the prin-\\nciple on which longitude is found independent of\\nchronometers. The work of the lunarian, though\\nseldom practised in these days of chronometers,\\nis beautifully edifying, and there is nothing in the\\nrealm of navigation that lifts one s heart up more\\nin adoration.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XII\\nSeventy-two days without a port Whales and birds A peep into\\nthe Sjyray^s galley Flying-fish for breakfast A welcome at\\nApia A visit from Mrs. Eobert Louis Stevenson At Vailima\\nSamoan hospitality Arrested for fast riding An amusing\\nmerry-go-round Teachers and pupils of Papauta College At\\nthe mercy of sea-nymphs.\\nTO be alone forty-three days would seem a long\\ntime, but in reality, even here, winged mo-\\nments flew lightly by, and instead of my hauling\\nin for Nukahiva, which I could have made as well as\\nnot, I kept on for Samoa, where I wished to make\\nmy next landing. This occupied twenty-nine days\\nmore, making seventy-two days in all. I was not\\ndistressed in any way during that time. There\\nwas no end of companionship the very coral reefs\\nkept me company, or gave me no time to feel\\nlonely, which is the same thing, and there were\\nmany of them now in my course to Samoa.\\nFirst among the incidents of the voyage from\\nJuan Fernandez to Samoa (which were not many)\\nwas a narrow escape from collision with a great\\nwhale that was absent-mindedly plowing the ocean\\nat night while I was below. The noise from his\\nstartled snort and the commotion he made in the\\nsea, as he turned to clear my vessel, brought me on\\ndeck in time to catch a wetting from the water he", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "WHALES AND BIRDS\\n151\\nthrew up with his flukes. The monster was appa-\\nrently frightened. He headed quickly for the east\\nI kept on going west. Soon another whale passed,\\nevidently a companion, following in its wake. I\\nMeeting with, the whale.\\nsaw no more on this part of the voyage, nor did I\\nwish to.\\nHungry sharks came about the vessel often\\nwhen she neared islands or coral reefs. I own to a\\nsatisfaction in shooting them as one would a tiger.\\nSharks, after all, are the tigers of the sea. No-\\nthing is more dreadful to the mind of a sailor, I\\nthink, than a possible encounter with a hungry\\nshark.\\nA number of birds were always about; occa-\\nsionally one poised on the mast to look the Spray\\nover, wondering, perhaps, at her odd wings, for\\nshe now wore her Fuego mainsail, which, like", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "152 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nJoseph s coat, was made of many pieces. Ships\\nare less common on the Southern seas than for-\\nmerly. I saw not one in the many days crossing\\nthe Pacific.\\nMy diet on these long passages usually consisted\\nof potatoes and salt cod and biscuits, which I made\\ntwo or three times a week. I had always plenty of\\ncoffee, tea, sugar, and flour. I carried usually a\\ngood supply of potatoes, but before reaching Samoa\\nI had a mishap which left me destitute of this\\nhighly prized sailors luxury. Through meeting at\\nJuan Fernandez the Yankee Portuguese named\\nManuel Carroza, who nearly traded me out of my\\nboots, I ran out of potatoes in mid-ocean, and was\\nwretched thereafter. I prided myself on being\\nsomething of a trader; but this Portuguese from\\nthe Azores by way of New Bedford, who gave me\\nnew potatoes for the older ones I had got from the\\nColombia, a bushel or more of the best, left me no\\nground for boasting. He wanted mine, he said, for\\nchangee the seed. When I got to sea I found that\\nhis tubers were rank and unedible, and full of fine\\nyellow streaks of repulsive appearance. I tied the\\nsack up and returned to the few left of my old stock,\\nthinking that maybe when I got right hungry the\\nisland potatoes would improve in flavor. Three\\nweeks later I opened the bag again, and out flew\\nmillions of winged insects Manuel s potatoes had\\nall turned to moths. I tied them up quickly and\\nthrew all into the sea.\\nManuel had a large crop of potatoes on hand,\\nand as a hint to whalemen, who are always eager\\nto buy vegetables, he wished me to report whales", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "FLYING FISH FOR BEEAKPAST 153\\noff the island of Juan Fernandez, which I have\\nakeady done, and big ones at that, but they were\\na long way off.\\nTaking things by and large, as sailors say, I got\\non fairly well in the matter of provisions even on\\nthe long voyage across the Pacific. I found always\\nsome small stores to help the fare of luxuries\\nwhat I lacked of fresh meat was made up in fresh\\nfish, at least while in the trade-winds, where flying-\\nfish crossing on the wing at night would hit the\\nsails and fall on deck, sometimes two or three of\\nthem, sometimes a dozen. Every morning except\\nwhen the moon was large I got a bountiful supply\\nby merely picking them up from the lee scuppers.\\nAll tinned meats went begging.\\nOn the 16th of July, after considerable care and\\nsome skill and hard work, the Spray cast anchor at\\nApia, in the kingdom of Samoa, about noon. My\\nvessel being moored, I spread an awning, and in-\\nstead of going at once on shore I sat under it till\\nlate in the evening, listening with delight to the\\nmusical voices of the Samoan men and women.\\nA canoe coming down the harbor, with three\\nyoung women in it, rested her paddles abreast the\\nsloop. One of the fair crew, hailing with the naive\\nsalutation, Talofa lee Love to you, chief\\nasked\\nSchoon come Melike\\nLove to you, I answered, and said, Yes.\\nYou man come lone\\nAgain I answered, Yes.\\nI don t believe that. You had other mans, and\\nyou eat em.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "154\\nSAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nAt this sally the others laughed. What for\\nyou come long way I they asked.\\nTo hear you ladies sing, I replied.\\nOh, talofa lee they all cried, and sang on.\\nTheir voices filled the air with music that rolled\\nFirst exchange of courtesies in Samoa.\\nacross to the grove of tall palnls on the other side\\nof the harbor and back. Soon after this six young\\nmen came down in the United States consul-\\ngeneral s boat, singing in parts and beating time\\nwith their oars. In my interview with them I\\ncame off better than with the damsels in the canoe.\\nThey bore an invitation from Greneral Churchill for\\nme to come and dine at the consulate. There was", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "A VISIT FROM MRS. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON 155\\na lady s hand in things about the consulate at\\nSamoa. Mrs. Churchill picked the crew for the\\ngeneral s boat, and saw to it that they wore a\\nsmart uniform and that they could sing the Samoan\\nboatsong, which in the first week Mrs. Churchill\\nherself could sing like a native girl.\\nNext morning bright and early Mrs. Robert\\nLouis Stevenson came to the Spray and invited\\nme to Vailima the following day. I was of course\\nthrilled when I found myself, after so many days\\nof adventure, face to face with this bright woman,\\nso lately the companion of the author who had\\ndelighted me on the voyage. The kindly eyes, that\\nlooked me through and through, sparkled when we\\ncompared notes of adventure. I marveled at some\\nof her experiences and escapes. She told me that,\\nalong with her husband, she had voyaged in all\\nmanner of rickety craft among the islands of the\\nPacific, reflectively adding, Our tastes were\\nsimilar.\\nFollowing the subject of voyages, she gave me\\nthe four beautiful volumes of sailing directories for\\nthe Mediterranean, writing on the fly-leaf of the\\nfirst\\nTo Captain Slocum. These volumes have been read and\\nre-read many times by my husband, and I am very sure that he\\nwould be pleased that they should be passed on to the sort of\\nseafaring man that he liked above all others.\\nFanny V. de G. Stevenson,\\nMrs. Stevenson also gave me a great directory of\\nthe Indian Ocean. It was not without a feeling of\\nreverential awe that I received the books so nearly", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "156\\nSAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WOELD\\ndirect from the hand of Tusitala, who sleeps in\\nthe forest. Aolele, the Spray will cherish your\\ngift.\\nThe novelist s stepson, Mr. Lloyd Osbourne,\\nwalked through the Vailima mansion with me\\n~M~\\nVailima, the home of Eobert Louis Stevenson.\\nand bade me write my letters at the old desk. I\\nthought it would be presumptuous to do that it\\nwas sufficient for me to enter the hall on the floor\\nof which the Writer of Tales, according to the\\nSamoan custom, was wont to sit.\\nComing through the main street of Apia one\\nday, with my hosts, all bound for the Spray Mrs.\\nStevenson on horseback, I walking by her side,\\nand Mr. and Mrs. Osbourne close in our wake on\\nbicycles, at a sudden turn in the road we found\\nourselves mixed with a remarkable native proces-\\nsion, with a somewhat primitive band of music, in\\nfront of us, while behind was a festival or a funeral,\\nwe could not tell which. Several of the stoutest\\nmen carried bales and bundles on poles. Some", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "SAMOAN HOSPITALITY 157\\nwere evidently bales of tapa-cloth. The burden of\\none set of poles, heavier than the rest, however,\\nwas not so easily made out. My curiosity was-\\nwhetted to know whether it was a roast pig or\\nsomething of a gruesome nature, and I inquired\\nabout it. I don t know, said Mrs. Stevenson,\\nwhether this is a wedding or a funeral. What-\\never it is, though, captain, our place seems to be at\\nthe head of it.\\nThe Spray being in the stream, we boarded her\\nfrom the beach abreast, in the little razeed Grlou-\\ncester dory, which had been painted a smart green.\\nOur combined weight loaded it gunwale to the\\nwater, and I was obliged to steer with great care\\nto avoid swamping. The adventure pleased Mrs.\\nStevenson greatly, and as we paddled along she\\nsang, They went to sea in a pea-green boat. I\\ncould understand her saying of her husband and\\nherself, Our tastes were similar.\\nAs I sailed farther from the center of civilization\\nI heard less and less of what would and what\\nwould not pay. Mrs. Stevenson, in speaking of\\nmy voyage, did not once ask me what I would\\nmake out of it. When I came to a Samoan village,\\nthe chief did not ask the price of gin, or say, How\\nmuch will you pay for roast pig but, Dollar,\\ndollar, said he white man know only dollar.\\nNever mind dollar. The ta]po has prepared ava\\nlet us drink and rejoice. The tapo is the virgin\\nhostess of the village in this instance it was Taloa,\\ndaughter of the chief. Our taro is good let us\\neat. On the tree there is fruit. Let the day go\\nby why should we mourn over that I There are", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "158 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nmillions of days coming. The breadfruit is yellow\\nin the sun, and from the cloth-tree is Taloa s gown.\\nyOuY house, which is good, cost but the labor of\\nbuilding it, and there is no lock on the door.\\nWhile the days go thus in these Southern islands\\nwe at the North are struggling for the bare necessi-\\nties of life.\\nFor food the islanders have only to put out their\\nhand and take what nature has provided for them\\nif they plant a banana -tree, their only care after-\\nward is to see that too many trees do not grow.\\nThey have great reason to love their country and\\nto fear the white man s yoke, for once harnessed to\\nthe plow, their life would no longer be a poem.\\nThe chief of the village of Caini, who was a tall\\nand dignified Tonga man, could be approached\\nonly through an interpreter and talking man. It\\nwas perfectly natural for him to inquire the\\nobject of my visit, and I was sincere when I told\\nhim that my reason for casting anchor in Samoa\\nwas to see their fine raen, and fine women, too.\\nAfter a considerable pause the chief said The\\ncaptain has come a long way to see so little but,\\nhe added, the tapo must sit nearer the captain.\\nYack, said Taloa, who had so nearly learned\\nto say yes in English, and suiting the action to\\nthe word, she hitched a peg nearer, all hands\\nsitting in a circle upon mats. I was no less\\ntaken with the chief s eloquence than delighted\\nwith the simplicity of all he said. About him\\nthere was nothing pompous he might have been\\ntaken for a great scholar or statesman, the least\\nassuming of the men I met on the voyage. As for", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "AEEESTED FOR FAST RIDING 159\\nTaloa, a sort of Queen of the May, and the other\\ntapo girls, well, it is wise to learn as soon as possi-\\nble the manners and customs of these hospitable\\npeople, and meanwhile not to mistake fcfr over-\\nfamiliarity that which is intended as honor to a\\nguest. I was fortunate in my travels in the islands,\\nand saw nothing to shake one s faith in native\\nvirtue.\\nTo the unconventional mind the punctilious eti-\\nquette of Samoa is perhaps a little painful. For\\ninstance, I found that in partaking of ava, the\\nsocial bowl, I was supposed to toss a little of the\\nbeverage over my shoulder, or pretend to do so,\\nand say, Let the gods drink, and then drink it\\nall myself; and the dish, invariably a cocoanut-\\nshell, being empty, I might not pass it politely as\\nwe would do, but politely throw it twirling across\\nthe mats at the tapo.\\nMy most grievous mistake while at the islands\\nwas made on a nag, which, inspired by a bit of\\ngood road, must needs break into a smart trot\\nthrough a village. I was instantly hailed by the\\nchief s deputy, who in an angry voice brought\\nme to a halt. Perceiving that I was in trouble,\\nI made signs for pardon, the safest thing to do,\\nthough I did not know what offense I had\\ncommitted. My interpreter coming up, however,\\nput me right, but not until a long palaver\\nhad ensued. The deputy s hail, liberally trans-\\nlated, was: Ahoy, there, on the frantic steed!\\nKnow you not that it is against the law to ride\\nthus through the village of our fathers I made\\nwhat apologies I could, and offered to dismount", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "^W^T W^^lWJ Wr\\nc\\na 1 a a: jpv V A4\\n5 ^o ^CSr^,^\\niV\\nX\\nSi*", "height": "2933", "width": "1785", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "AN AMUSING MEERY-GO-KOUND 161\\nand, like my servant, lead my nag by the bridle.\\nThis, the interpreter told me, would also be a\\ngrievous wrong, and so I again begged for pardon.\\nI was summoned to appear before a chief but my\\ninterpreter, being a wit as well as a bit of a rogue,\\nexplained that I was myself something of a chief,\\nand should not be detained, being on a most im-\\nportant mission. In my own behalf I could only\\nsay that I was a stranger, but, pleading all this, I\\nknew I still deserved to be roasted, at which the\\nchief showed a fine row of teeth and seemed\\npleased, but allowed me to pass on.\\nThe chief of the Tongas and his family at Caini,\\nreturning my visit, brought presents of tapa-cloth\\nand fruits. Taloa, the princess, brought a bottle\\nof cocoanut-oil for my hair, which another man\\nmight have regarded as coming late.\\nIt was impossible to entertain on the Spray after\\nthe royal manner in which I had been received by\\nthe chief. His fare had included all that the land\\ncould afford, fruits, fowl, fishes, and flesh, a hog\\nhaving been roasted whole. I set before them\\nboiled salt pork and salt beef, with which I was\\nwell supplied, and in the evening took them all to\\na new amusement in the town, a rocking-horse\\nmerry-go-round, which they called a kee-kee,\\nmeaning theater; and in a spirit of justice they\\npulled off the horses tails, for the proprietors of\\nthe show, two hard-fisted countrymen of mine, I\\ngrieve to say, unceremoniously hustled them off\\nfor a new set, almost at the first spin. I was not a\\nlittle proud of my Tonga friends the chief, finest\\nof them all, carried a portentous club. As for the\\nn", "height": "2933", "width": "1785", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "162 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ntheater, through the greed of the proprietors it was\\nbecoming unpopular, and the representatives of\\nthe three great powers, in want of laws which they\\ncould enforce, adopted a vigorous foreign policy,\\ntaxing it twenty-five per cent, on the gate-money.\\nThis was considered a great stroke of legislative\\nreform\\nIt was the fashion of the native visitors to the\\nSpray to come over the bows, where they could\\nreach the head-gear and climb aboard with ease,\\nand on going ashore to jump off the stern and\\nswim away; nothing could have been more de-\\nlightfully simple. The modest natives wore lava-\\nlava bathing-dresses, a native cloth from the bark\\nof the mulberry-tree, and they did no harm to the\\nSpray. In summer-land Samoa their coming and\\ngoing was only a merry every-day scene.\\nOne day the head teachers of Papauta College,\\nMiss Schultze and Miss Moore, came on board with\\ntheir ninety-seven young women students. They\\nwere all dressed in white, and each wore a red rose,\\nand of course came in boats or canoes in the cold-\\nclimate style. A merrier bevy of girls it would be\\ndifficult to find. As soon as they got on deck, by\\nrequest of one of the teachers, they sang The\\nWatch on the Ehine, which I had never heard be-\\nfore. And now, said they all, let s up anchor\\nand away. But I had no inclination to sail from\\nSamoa so soon. On leaving the Spray these ac-\\ncomplished young women each seized a palm-\\nbranch or paddle, or whatever else would serve the\\npurpose, and literally paddled her own canoe.\\nEach could have swum as readily, and would", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "AT THE MERCY OF SEA-NYMPHS 163\\nhave done so, I dare say, had it not been for\\nthe holiday muslin.\\nIt was not uncommon at Apia to see a young\\nwoman swimming alongside a small canoe with a\\npassenger for the Spray. Mr. Trood, an old Eton\\nboy, came in this manner to see me, and he ex-\\nclaimed, Was ever king ferried in such state?\\nThen, suiting his action to the sentiment, he gave\\nthe damsel pieces of silver till the natives watch-\\ning on shore yelled with envy. My own canoe, a\\nsmall dugout, one day when it had rolled over with\\nme, was seized by a party of fair bathers, and\\nbefore I could get my breath, almost, was towed\\naround and around the Spray while I sat in the\\nbottom of it, wondering what they would do next.\\nBut in this case there were six of them, three on a\\nside, and I could not help myself. One of the\\nsprites, I remember, was a young English lady,\\nwho made more sport of it than any of the others.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIII\\nSamoan royalty King Malietoa Good-by to friends at Vailima\\nLeaving Fiji to the south Arrival at Newcastle, Australia\\nThe yachts of Sydney A ducking on the Spray Commodore\\nFoy presents the sloop with a new suit of sails On to Melbourne\\nA shark that proved to be valuable A change of course\\nThe Rain of Blood In Tasmania.\\nAT Apia I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. A.\\n.XJL Young, the father of the late Queen Margaret,\\nwho was Queen of Manua from 1891 to 1895. Her\\ngrandfather was an English sailor who mar-\\nried a princess. Mr. Young is now the only sur-\\nvivor of the family, two of his children, the last of\\nthem all, having been lost in an island trader which\\na few months before had sailed, never to return.\\nMr. Young was a Christian gentleman, and his\\ndaughter Margaret was accomplished in graces\\nthat would become any lady. It was with pain\\nthat I saw in the newspapers a sensational account\\nof her life and death, taken evidently from a paper\\nin the supposed interest of a benevolent society,\\nbut without foundation in fact. And the startling\\nhead-lines saying, Queen Margaret of Manua is\\ndead, could hardly be called news in 1898, the\\nqueen having then been dead three years.\\nWhile hobnobbing, as it were, with royalty, I\\ncalled on the king himself, the late Malietoa. King\\n164", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "SAMOAN EOYALTY 165\\nMalietoa was a great ruler he never got less than\\nforty-five dollars a month for the job, as he told\\nme himself, and this amount had lately been raised,\\nso that he could live on the fat of the land and not\\nany longer be called Tin-of -salmon Malietoa by\\ngraceless beach-combers.\\nAs my interpreter and I entered the front door\\nof the palace, the king s brother, who was viceroy,\\nsneaked in through a taro-patch by the back way,\\nand sat cowering by the door while I told my story\\nto the king. Mr. W of New York, a gentle-\\nman interested in missionary work, had charged\\nme, when I sailed, to give his remembrance to the\\nking of the Cannibal Islands, other islands of\\ncourse being meant but the good King Malietoa,\\nnotwithstanding that his people have not eaten a\\nmissionary in a hundred years, received the mes-\\nsage himself, and seemed greatly pleased to hear\\nso directly from the publishers of the Missionary\\nReview, and wished me to make his compli-\\nments in return. His Majesty then excused him-\\nself, while I talked with his daughter, the beautiful\\nFaamu-Sami (a name signifying To make the sea\\nburn and sooij. reappeared in the full-dress uni-\\nform of the German commander-in-chief. Emperor\\nWilliam himself; for, stupidly enough, I had not\\nsent my credentials ahead that the king might be\\nin full regalia to receive me. Calling a few days\\nlater to say good-by to Faamu-Sami, I saw King\\nMalietoa for the last time.\\nOf the landmarks in the pleasant town of Apia,\\nmy memory rests first on the little school just back\\nof the London Missionary Society coffee-house and", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "166 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nreading-rooms, where Mrs. Bell tanglit English to\\nabout a hundred native children, boys and girls.\\nBrighter children you will not find anywhere.\\nNow, children, said Mi s. Bell, when I called\\none day, let us show the captain that we know\\nsomething about the Cape Horn he passed in the\\nSpray, at which a lad of nine or ten years stepped\\nnimbly forward and read Basil Hall s fine descrip-\\ntion of the great cape, and read it well. He after-\\nward copied the essay for me in a clear hand.\\nCalling to say good-by to my friends at Vailima,\\nI met Mrs. Stevenson in her Panama hat, and\\nwent over the estate with her. Men were at work\\nclearing the land, and to one of them she gave an\\norder to cut a couple of bamboo-trees for the\\nSjpray from a clump she had planted four years\\nbefore, and which had grown to the height of sixty\\nfeet. I used them for spare spars, and the butt of\\none made a serviceable jib-boom on the homeward\\nvoyage. I had then only to take ava with the\\nfamily and be ready for sea. This ceremony, im-\\nportant among Samoans, was conducted after the\\nnative fashion. A Triton horn was sounded to\\nlet us know when the beverage was ready, and in\\nresponse we all clapped hands. The bout being in\\nhonor of the Spray, it was my turn first, after the\\ncustom of the country, to spill a little over my\\nshoulder; but having forgotten the Samoan for\\nLet the gods di ink, I repeated the equivalent in\\nRussian and Chinook, as I remembered a word in\\neach, whereupon Mr. Osbourne pronounced me a\\nconfirmed Samoan. Then I said Tofah to my\\ngood friends of Samoa, and all wishing the Spray", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "LEAVING FIJI TO THE SOUTH 167\\nhon voyage, she stood out of the harbor August 20,\\n1896, and continued on her course. A sense of\\nloneliness seized upon me as the islands faded\\nastern, and as a remedy for it I crowded on sail\\nfor lovely Australia, which was not a strange land\\nto me but for long days in my dreams Vailima\\nstood before the prow.\\nThe Spray had barely cleared the islands when a\\nsudden burst of the trades brought her down to\\nclose reefs, and she reeled off one hundred and\\neighty-four miles the first day, of which I counted\\nforty miles of current in her favor. Finding a\\nrough sea, I swung her off free and sailed north\\nof the Horn Islands, also north of Fiji instead of\\nsouth, as I had intended, and coasted down the west\\nside of the archipelago. Thence I sailed direct for\\nNew South Wales, passing south of New Caledonia,\\nand arrived at Newcastle after a passage of forty-\\ntwo days, mostly of storms and gales.\\nOne particularly severe gale encountered near\\nNew Caledonia foundered the American clipper-\\nship Fatrician farther south. Again, nearer the\\ncoast of Australia, when, however, I was not aware\\nthat the gale was extraordinary, a French mail-\\nsteamer from New Caledonia for Sydney, blown\\nconsiderably out of her course, on her arrival re-\\nported it an awful storm, and to inquiring friends\\nsaid: Oh, my! we don t know what has become\\nof the little sloop Spray. We saw her in the thick\\nof the storm. The Spray was all right, Ijdng to\\nlike a duck. She was under a goose s wing mainsail,\\nand had had a dry deck while the passengers on\\nthe steamer, I heard later, were up to their knees", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "168 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nin water in the saloon. When their ship arrived at\\nSydney they gave the captain a pnrse of gold for\\nhis skill and seamanship in bringing them safe into\\nport. The captain of the Spray got nothing of this\\nsort. In this gale I made the land about Seal\\nRocks, where the steamship Cathertotz, with many\\nlives, was lost a short time before. I was many\\nhours off the rocks, beating back and forth, but\\nweathered them at last.\\nI arrived at Newcastle in the teeth of a gale of\\nwind. It was a stormy season. The government\\npilot. Captain Gumming, met me at the harbor bar,\\nand with the assistance of a steamer carried my ves-\\nsel to a safe berth. Many visitors came on board,\\nthe first being the United States consul, Mr. Brown.\\nNothing was too good for the Spray here. All\\ngovernment dues were remitted, and after I had\\nrested a few days a port pilot with a tug carried\\nher to sea again, and she made along the coast\\ntoward the harbor of Sydney, where she arrived on\\nthe following day, October 10, 1896.\\nI came to in a snug cove near Manly for the\\nnight, the Sydney harbor police -boat giving me a\\npluck into anchorage while they gathered data\\nfrom an old scrap-book of mine, which seemed to\\ninterest them. Nothing escapes the vigilance of\\nthe New South Wales police; their reputation is\\nknown the world over. They made a shrewd guess\\nthat I could give them some useful information,\\nand they were the first to meet me. Some one said\\nthey came to arrest me, and well, let it go at that.\\nSummer was approaching, and the harbor of\\nSydney was blooming with yachts. Some of them", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "A DUCKINa ON THE SPRAY\\n169\\nThe accident at Sydney.\\ncame down to the weather-beaten Spray and sailed\\nround her at Shelcote, where she took a berth for a\\nfew days. At Sydney I was at once among friends.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "170 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\nThe Spray remained at the various watering-places\\nin the great port for several weeks, and was visited\\nby many agreeable people, frequently by officers of\\nH. M. S. Orlando and their friends. Captain Fisher,\\nthe commander, with a party of young ladies from\\nthe city and gentlemen belonging to his ship, came\\none day to pay me a visit in the midst of a deluge\\nof rain. I never saw it rain harder even in Aus-\\ntralia. But they were out for fun, and rain could\\nnot dampen their feelings, however hard it poured.\\nBut, as ill luck would have it, a young gentleman\\nof another party on board, in the full uniform\\nof a very gi^eat yacht club, with brass buttons\\nenough to sink him, stepping quickly to get out of\\nthe wet, tumbled holus-bolus, head and heels, into\\na barrel of water I had been coopering, and being\\na short man, was soon out of sight, and nearly\\ndrowned before he was rescued. It was the nearest\\nto a casualty on the Spray in her whole course, so\\nfar as I know. The young man having come on\\nboard with compliments made the mishap most\\nembarrassing. It had been decided by his club\\nthat the Spray could not be officially recognized,\\nfor the reason that she brought no letters from\\nyacht-clubs in America, and so I say it seemed all\\nthe more embarrassing and strange that I should\\nhave caught at least one of the members, in a bar-\\nrel, and, too, when I was not fishing for yachtsmen.\\nThe typical Sydney boat is a handy sloop of\\ngreat beam and enormous sail-carrying power; but\\na capsize is not uncommon, for they carry sail like\\nvikings. In Sydney I saw all manner of craft,\\nfrom the smart steam-launch and sailing-cutter to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "A NEW SUIT OF SAILS 171\\nthe smaller sloop and canoe pleasuring on the bay.\\nEverybody owned a boat. If a boy in Australia\\nhas not the means to buy him a boat he builds one,\\nand it is usually one not to be ashamed of. The\\nSpray shed her Joseph s coat, the Fuego mainsail,\\nin Sydney, and wearing a new suit, the handsome\\npresent of Commodore Foy, she was flagship of the\\nJohnstone s Bay Flying Squadron when the cir-\\ncumnavigators of Sydney harbor sailed in their\\nannual regatta. They recognized the Spray as\\nbelonging to a club of her own, and with more\\nAustralian sentiment than fastidiousness gave her\\ncredit for her record.\\nTime flew fast those days in Australia, and it\\nwas December 6, 1896, when the Spray sailed from\\nSydney. My intention was now to sail around\\nCape Leeuwin direct for Mauritius on my way\\nhome, and so I coasted along toward Bass Strait in\\nthat direction.\\nThere was little to report on this part of the\\nvoyage, except changeable winds, busters, and\\nrough seas. The 12th of December, however, was\\nan exceptional day, with a fine coast wind, north-\\neast. The Spray early in the morning passed\\nTwofold Bay and later Cape Bundooro in a smooth\\nsea with land close aboard. The lighthouse on the\\ncape dipped a flag to the Spray^s flag, and children\\non the balconies of a cottage near the shore waved\\nhandkerchiefs as she passed by. There were only\\na few people all told on the shore, but the scene\\nwas a happy one. I saw festoons of evergreen in\\ntoken of Christmas, near at hand. I saluted the\\nmerrymakers, wishing them a Merry Christmas,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "172 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nand could hear them say, I wish you the\\nsame.\\nFrom Cape Bundooro I passed by Chff Island in\\nBass Strait, and exchanged signals with the light-\\nkeepers while the Spray worked up under the\\nisland. The wind howled that day while the sea\\nbroke over their rocky home.\\nA few days later, December 17, the Spray came\\nin close under Wilson s Promontory, again seek-\\ning shelter. The keeper of the light at that sta-\\ntion, Mr. J. Clark, came on board and gave me\\ndirections for Waterloo Bay, about three miles to\\nleeward, for which I bore up at once, finding good\\nanchorage there in a sandy cove protected from all\\nwesterly and northerly winds.\\nAnchored here was the ketch Secret, a fisherman,\\nand the Mary of Sydney, a steam ferry-boat fitted\\nfor whaling. The captain of the Mary was a genius,\\nand an Australian genius at that, and smart. His\\ncrew, from a sawmill up the coast, had not one of\\nthem seen a live whale when they shipped; but\\nthey were boatmen after an Australian s own heart,\\nand the captain had told them that to kill a whale\\nwas no more than to kill a rabbit. They believed\\nhim, and that settled it. As luck would have it,\\nthe very first one they saw on their cruise, although\\nan ugly humpback, was a dead whale in no time,\\nCaptain Young, the master of the Mary, killing\\nthe monster at a single thrust of a harpoon. It\\nwas taken in tow for Sydney, where they put it on\\nexhibition. Nothing but whales interested the\\ncrew of the gallant Mary, and they spent most of\\ntheir time here gathering fuel along shore for a", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "ON TO MELBOURNE\\n173\\ncruise on the grounds off Tasmania. Whenever the\\nword whale was mentioned in the hearing of\\nthese men their eyes ghstened with excitement.\\nCaptain Slocum working the Spray out of tlie Yarrow River,\\na part of Melbourne harbor.\\nWe spent three days in the quiet cove, listening\\nto the wind outside. Meanwhile Captain Young\\nand I explored the shores, visited abandoned\\nminers pits, and prospected for gold ourselves.\\nOur vessels, parting company the morning they\\nsailed, stood away like sea-birds each on its own\\ncourse. The wind for a few days was moderate,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "174 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nand, with unusiial luck of fine weather, the Spray\\nmade Melbourne Heads on the 22d of December,\\nand, taken in tow by the steam-tug Bacer, was\\nbrought into port.\\nChristmas day was spent at a berth in the river\\nYarrow, but I lost little time in shifting to St. Kilda,\\nwhere I spent nearly a month.\\nThe Spray paid no port charges in Australia or\\nanywhere else on the voyage, except at Pernambuco,\\ntill she poked her nose into the custom-house at\\nMelbourne, where she was charged tonnage dues in\\nthis instance, sixpence a ton on the gross. The col-\\nlector exacted six shillings and sixpence, taking off\\nnothing for the fraction under thirteen tons, her\\nexact gross being 12.70 tons. I squared the matter\\nby charging people sixpence each for coming on\\nboard, and when this business got dull I caught a\\nshark and charged them sixpence each to look at\\nthat. The shark was twelve feet six inches in\\nlength, and carried a progeny of twenty-six, not\\none of them less than two feet in length. A slit\\nof a knife let them out in a canoe full of water,\\nwhich, changed constantly, kept them alive one\\nwhole day. In less than an horn* from the time I\\nheard of the ugly brute it was on deck and on exhi-\\nbition, with rather more than the amount of the\\nSpray^s tonnage dues already collected. Then I\\nhired a good Irishman, Tom Howard by name,\\nwho knew all about sharks, both on the land and\\nin the sea, and could talk about them, to answer\\nquestions and lecture. When I found that I could\\nnot keep abreast of the questions I turned the re-\\nsponsibility over to him.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "176 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nReturning from the bank, where I had been to\\ndeposit money early in the day, I found Howard\\nin the midst of a very excited crowd, telling imagi-\\nnary habits of the fish. It was a good show the\\npeople wished to see it, and it was my wish that\\nthey should but owing to his over-stimulated en-\\nthusiasm, I was obliged to let Howard resign. The\\nincome from the show and the proceeds of the\\ntallow I had gathered in the Strait of Magellan,\\nthe last of which I had disposed of to a Gler-\\nman soap-boiler at Samoa, put me in ample\\nfunds.\\nJanuary 24, 1897, found the Spray again in tow\\nof the tug Racer, leaving Hobson s Bay after a\\npleasant time in Melbourne and St. Kilda, which\\nhad been protracted by a succession of southwest\\nwinds that seemed never-ending.\\nIn the summer months, that is, December, Jan-\\nuary, February, and sometimes March, east winds\\nare prevalent through Bass Strait and round\\nCape Leeuwin but owing to a vast amount of ice\\ndrifting up from the Antarctic, this was all changed\\nnow and emphasized with much bad weather,\\nso much so that I considered it impracticable to\\npursue the course farther. Therefore, instead of\\nthrashing round cold and stormy Cape Leeuwin, I\\ndecided to spend a pleasanter and more profitable\\ntime in Tasmania, waiting for the season for favor-\\nable winds through Torres Strait, by way of the\\nG-reat Barrier Reef, the route I finally decided\\non. To sail this course would be taking advan-\\ntage of anticyclones, which never fail, and besides\\nit would give me the chance to put foot on the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "THE RAIN OF BLOOD 177\\nshores of Tasmania, round which I had sailed\\nyears before.\\nI should mention that while I was at Melbourne\\nthere occurred one of those extraordinary storms\\nsometimes called rain of blood, the first of the\\nkind in many years about Australia. The blood\\ncame from a fine brick-dust matter afloat in the\\nair from the deserts. A rain-storm setting in\\nbrought down this dust simply as mud it fell in\\nsuch quantities that a bucketful was collected from\\nthe sloop s awnings, which were spread at the\\ntime. When the wind blew hard and I was obliged\\nto furl awnings, her sails, unprotected on the booms,\\ngot mud-stained from clue to earing.\\nThe phenomena of dust-storms, well understood\\nby scientists, are not uncommon on the coast of\\nAfrica. Reaching some distance out over the sea,\\nthey frequently cover the track of ships, as in the\\ncase of the one through which the Spray passed in\\nthe earlier part of her voyage. Sailors no longer\\nregard them with superstitious fear, but our credu-\\nlous brothers on the land cry out Rain of blood\\nat the first splash of the awful mud.\\nThe rip off Port Phillip Heads, a wild place, was\\nrough when the Spray entered Hobson s Bay from\\nthe sea, and was rougher when she stood out. But,\\nwith sea-room and under sail, she made good\\nweather immediately after passing it. It was only\\na few hours sail to Tasmania across the strait, the\\nwind being fair and blowing hard. I carried the\\nSt. Kilda shark along, stuffed with hay, and dis-\\nposed of it to Professor Porter, the curator of the\\nVictoria Museum of Launceston, which is at the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "IN TASMANIA 179\\nhead of the Tamar. For many a long day to come\\nmay be seen there the shark of St. Ealda. Alas\\nthe good but mistaken people of St. Kilda, when\\nthe illustrated journals with pictures of my shark\\nreached their news-stands, flew into a passion, and\\nswept all papers containing mention of fish into\\nthe fire for St. Kilda was a watering-place and\\nthe idea of a shark tliere But my show went on.\\nThe Spray was berthed on the beach at a small\\njetty at Launceston while the tide driven in by the\\ngale that brought her up the river was unusually\\nhigh and she lay there hard and fast, with not\\nenough water around her at any time after to wet\\none s feet till she was ready to sail then, to float\\nher, the ground was dug from under her keel.\\nIn this snug place I left her in charge of three\\nchildren, while I made journeys among the hills\\nand rested my bones, for the coming voyage, on\\nthe moss-covered rocks at the gorge hard by, and\\namong the ferns I found wherever I went. My\\nvessel was well taken care of. I never returned\\nwithout finding that the decks had been washed\\nand that one of the children, my nearest neighbor s\\nlittle girl from across the road, was at the gangway\\nattending to visitors, while the others, a brother\\nand sister, sold marine curios such as were in the\\ncargo, on ship s account. They were a bright,\\ncheerful crew, and people came a long way to hear\\nthem tell the story of the voyage, and of the mon-\\nsters of the deep the captam had slain. I had\\nonly to keep myself away to be a hero of the first\\nwater; and it suited me very well to do so and\\nto rusticate in the forests and among the streams.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIV\\nA testimonial from a lady Cruising round Tasmania The skipper\\ndelivers his first lecture on the voyage Abundant provisions\\nAn inspection of the Spray for safety at Devonport Again at\\nSydney Northward bound for Torres Strait An amateur ship-\\nwreck Friends on the Australian coast Perils of a coral sea.\\nFEBRUAEY 1, 1897, on returning to my vessel\\nI found waiting for me the letter of sympathy\\nwhich I subjoin\\ni A lady sends Mr. Slocum the inclosed five-pound note\\nas a token of her appreciation of his bravery in crossing\\nthe wide seas on so smaU a boat, and all alone, without\\nhuman sympathy to help when danger threatened. All\\nsuccess to you.\\nTo this day I do not know who wrote it or to\\nwhom I am indebted for the generous gift it con-\\ntained. I could not refuse a thing so kindly meant,\\nbut promised myself to pass it on with interest at\\nthe first opportunity, and this I did before leaving\\nAustralia.\\nThe season of fair weather around the north of\\nAustralia being yet a long way off, I sailed to other\\nports in Tasmania, where it is fine the year round,\\nthe first of these being Beauty Point, near which\\nare Beaconsfield and the great Tasmania gold-mine,\\nwhich I visited in turn. I saw much gray, unin-\\n180", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "CRUISma EOUND TASMANIA 181\\nteresting rock being hoisted out of the mine there,\\nand hundreds of stamps crushing it into powder.\\nPeople told me there was gold in it, and I believed\\nwhat they said.\\nI remember Beauty Point for its shady forest\\nand for the road among the tall gum-trees. While\\nthere the governor of New South Wales, Lord\\nHampden, and his family came in on a steam-yacht,\\nsight-seeing. The Spray, anchored near the land-\\ning-pier, threw her bunting out, of course, and\\nprobably a more insignificant craft bearing the\\nStars and Stripes was never seen in those waters.\\nHowever, the governor s party seemed to know\\nwhy it floated there, and all about the Spray, and\\nwhen I heard his Excellency say, Introduce me\\nto the captain, or Introduce the captain to me,\\nwhichever it was, I found myself at once in the\\npresence of a gentleman and a friend, and one\\ngreatly interested in my voyage. If any one of\\nthe party was more interested than the governor\\nhimself, it was the Honorable Margaret, his daugh-\\nter. On leaving. Lord and Lady Hampden promised\\nto rendezvous with me on board the Spray at the\\nParis Exposition in 1900. If we live, they said,\\nand I added, for my part, Dangers of the seas\\nexcepted.\\nFrom Beauty Point the Spray visited George-\\ntown, near the mouth of the river Tamar. This\\nlittle settlement, I believe, marks the place where\\nthe first footprints were made by whites in Tas-\\nmania, though it never grew to be more than a\\nhamlet.\\nConsidering that I had seen something of the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "182 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nworld, and finding people here interested in adven-\\nture, I talked the matter over before my first audi-\\nence in a little hall by the country road. A piano\\nhaving been brought in from a neighbor s, I was\\nhelped out by the severe thumping it got, and by a\\nTommy Atkins song from a strolling comedian.\\nPeople came from a great distance, and the atten-\\ndance all told netted the house about three pounds\\nsterling. The owner of the hall, a kind lady from\\nScotland, would take no rent, and so my lecture\\nfrom the start was a success.\\nFrom this snug little place I made sail for Dev-\\nonport, a thriving place on the river Mersey, a few\\nhours sail westward along the coast, and fast\\nbecoming the most important port in Tasmania.\\nLarge steamers enter there now and carry away\\ngreat cargoes of farm produce, but the Spray was\\nthe first vessel to bring the Stars and Stripes to the\\nport, the harbor-master, Captain Murray, told me,\\nand so it is written in the port records. For the\\ngreat distinction the Spray enjoyed many civilities\\nwhile she rode comfortably at anchor in her port-\\nduster awning that covered her from stem to stern.\\nFrom the magistrate s house, Malunnah, on the\\npoint, she was saluted by the Jack both on coming\\nin and on going out, and dear Mrs. Aikenhead, the\\nmistress of Malunnah, supplied the Spray with jams\\nand jellies of all sorts, by the case, prepared from\\nthe fruits of her own rich garden enough to last\\nall the way home and to spare. Mrs. Wood, farther\\nup the harbor, put up bottles of raspberry wine for\\nme. At this point, more than ever before, I was in\\nthe land of good cheer. Mrs. Powell sent on board", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "ABUNDANT PROVISIONS\\n183\\nchutney prepared as we prepare it in India. Fish\\nand game were plentiful here, and the voice of the\\ngobbler was heard, and from Pardo, farther up the\\ncountry, came an enormous cheese and yet people\\nThe Spray in her port duster at Devonport, Tasmania,\\nFebruary 22, 1897.\\ninquire What did you live on What did you\\neat?\\nI was haunted by the beauty of the landscape all\\nabout, of the natural ferneries then disappearing,\\nand of the domed forest-trees on the slopes, and\\nwas fortunate in meeting a gentleman intent on", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "184 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\npreserving in art the beauties of Ms country. He\\npresented me with many reproductions from his\\ncollection of pictures, also many originals, to show\\nto my friends.\\nBy another gentleman I was charged to tell the\\nglories of Tasmania in every land and on every\\noccasion. This was Dr. McCall, M. L. C. The doc-\\ntor gave me useful hints on lecturing. It was not\\nwithout misgivings, however, that I filled away on\\nthis new course, and I am free to say that it is only\\nby the kindness of sympathetic audiences that my\\noratorical bark was held on even keel. Soon\\nafter my first talk the kind doctor came to me\\nwith words of approval. As in many other of\\nmy enterprises, I had gone about it at once and\\nwithout second thought. Man, man, said he,\\ngreat nervousness is only a sign of brain, and the\\nmore brain a man has the longer it takes him to\\nget over the affliction but, he added reflectively,\\nyou will get over it. However, in my own behalf\\nI think it only fair to say that I am not yet entirely\\ncured.\\nThe Spray was hauled out on the marine railway\\nat Devonport and examined carefully top and bot-\\ntom, but was found absolutely free from the destruc-\\ntive teredo, and sound in all respects. To protect\\nher furth-er against the ravage of these insects the\\nbottom was coated once more with copper paint,\\nfor she would have to sail through the Coral and\\nArafura seas before refitting again. Everything\\nwas done to fit her for all the known dangers. But\\nit was not without regret that I looked forward to\\nthe day of sailing from a country of so many pleas-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "AGAIN AT SYDNEY 185\\nant associations. If there was a moment in my\\nvoyage when I could have given it up, it was there\\nand then but no vacancies for a better post being\\nopen, I weighed anchor April 16, 1897, and again\\nput to sea.\\nThe season of summer was then over; winter\\nwas rolling up from the south, with fair winds for\\nthe north. A foretaste of winter wind sent the\\nSpray flying round Cape Howe and as far as Cape\\nBundooro farther along, which she passed on the\\nfollowing day, retracing her course northward.\\nThis was a fine run, and boded good for the long\\nvoyage home from the antipodes. My old Christ-\\nmas friends on Bundooro seemed to be up and\\nmoving when I came the second time by their cape,\\nand we exchanged signals again, while the sloop\\nsailed along as before in a smooth sea and close to\\nthe shore.\\nThe weather was fine, with clear sky the rest of\\nthe passage to Port Jackson (Sydney), where the\\nSpray arrived April 22, 1897, and anchored in\\nWatson s Bay, near the heads, in eight fathoms of\\nwater. The harbor from the heads to Parramatta,\\nup the river, was more than ever alive with boats\\nand yachts of every class. It was, indeed, a scene\\nof animation, hardly equaled in any other part of\\nthe world.\\nA few days later the bay was flecked with tem-\\npestuous waves, and none but stout ships carried\\nsail. I was in a neighboring hotel then, nursing a\\nnem^algia which I had picked up alongshore, and\\nhad only that moment got a glance of just the\\nstern of a large, unmanageable steamship passing", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "186 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nthe range of my window as she forged in by the\\npoint, when the bell-boy burst into my room shout-\\ning that the Spray had gone bung. I tumbled\\nout quickly, to learn that bung meant that a\\nlarge steamship had run into her, and that it was\\nthe one of which I saw the stern, the other end of her\\nhaving hit the Spray. It turned out, however, that\\nno damage was done beyond the loss of an anchor\\nand chain, which from the shock of the collision\\nhad parted at the hawse. I had nothing at all to\\ncomplain of, though, in the end, for the captain,\\nafter he clubbed his ship, took the Spray in tow\\nup the harbor, clear of all dangers, and sent her\\nback again, in charge of an officer and three men,\\nto her anchorage in the bay, with a polite note say-\\ning he would repair any damages done. But what\\nyawing about she made of it when she came with\\na stranger at the helm Her old friend the pilot\\nof the Pinta would not have been guilty of such\\nlubberly work. But to my great delight they got\\nher into a berth, and the neuralgia left me then, or\\nwas forgotten. The captain of the steamer, like a\\ntrue seaman, kept his word, and his agent, Mr. Col-\\nlishaw handed me on the very next day the price\\nof the lost anchor and chain, with something over\\nfor anxiety of mind. I remember that he offered\\nme twelve pounds at once but my lucky number\\nbeing thirteen, we made the amount thirteen\\npounds, which squared all accounts.\\nI sailed again. May 9, before a strong southwest\\nwind, which sent the Spray gallantly on as far as\\nPort Stevens, where it fell calm and then came up\\nahead but the weather was fine, and so remained", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "NORTH WAKD BOUND FOR TORRES STRAIT 187\\nfor many days, which was a great change from the\\nstate of the weather experienced here some months\\nbefore.\\nHaving a full set of admiralty sheet-charts of the\\ncoast and Barrier Reef, I felt easy in mind. Cap-\\ntain Fisher, R. N., who had steamed through the\\nBarrier passages in H. M. S. Orlando, advised me\\nfrom the first to take this route, and I did not\\nregret coming back to it now.\\nThe wind, for a few days after passing Port\\nStevens, Seal Rocks, and Cape Hawk, was light and\\ndead ahead but these points are photographed on\\nmy memory from the trial of beating round them\\nsome months before when bound the other way.\\nBut now, with a good stock of books on board, I\\nfell to reading day and night, leaving this pleasant\\noccupation merely to trim sails or tack, or to lie\\ndown and rest, while the Spray nibbled at the miles.\\nI tried to compare my state with that of old cir-\\ncumnavigators, who sailed exactly over the route\\nwhich I took from Cape Verde Islands or farther\\nback to this point and beyond, but there was no\\ncomparison so far as I had got. Their hardships\\nand romantic escapes those of them who escaped\\ndeath and worse sufferings did not enter into my\\nexperience, sailing all alone around the world. For\\nme is left to tell only of pleasant experiences, till\\nfinally my adventures are prosy and tame.\\nI had just finished reading some of the most\\ninteresting of the old voyages in woe-begone ships,\\nand was already near Port Macquarie, on my own\\ncruise, when I made out. May 13, a modern dandy\\ncraft in distress, anchored on the coast. Standing", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "188 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nin for her, I found that she was the cutter-yacht\\nAJchar,^ which had sailed from Watson s ^Bay about\\nIs it a-goin to blow\\nthree days ahead of the Spray, and that she had\\nrun at once into trouble. No wonder she did so.\\n1 Akbar was not her registered name, which need not be told.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "AN AMATEUE SHIPWEECK 189\\nIt was a case of babes in the wood or butterflies\\nat sea. Her owner, on his maiden voyage, was all\\nduck trousers; the captain, distinguished for the\\nenormous yachtsman s cap he wore, was a Mur-\\nrumbidgee whaler before he took command of the\\nAhhar and the navigating officer, poor fellow, was\\nalmost as deaf as a post, and nearly as stiff and\\nimmovable as a post in the ground. These three\\njolly tars comprised the crew. None of them\\nknew more about the sea or about a vessel than a\\nnewly born babe knows about another world.\\nThey were bound for New Guinea, so they said;\\nperhaps it was as well that three tenderfeet so\\ntender as those never reached that destination.\\nThe owner, whom I had met before he sailed,\\nwanted to race the poor old Spray to Thursday\\nIsland en route. I declined the challenge, natu-\\nrally, on the ground of the unfairness of three\\nyoung yachtsmen in a clipper against an old sailor\\nall alone in a craft of coarse build besides that, I\\nwould not on any account race in the Coral Sea.\\nSjpray ahoy they all hailed now. What s\\nthe weather goin t be Is it a-goin to blow And\\ndon t you think we d better go back t r-r-refit\\nI thought, If ever you get back, don t refit,\\nbut I said Grive me the end of a rope, and I 11\\ntow you into yon port farther along and on your\\nlives, I urged, do not go back round Cape Hawk,\\nfor it s winter to the south of it.\\nThey purposed making for Newcastle under jury-\\n1 The Murrumbidgee is a small river winding among the moun-\\ntains of Australia, and would be the last place in which to look for\\na whale.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "190 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsails for their mainsail had been blown to ribbons,\\neven the jigger had been blown away, and her rig-\\nging flew at loose ends. The Akbar, in a word,\\nwas a wreck.\\nUp anchor, I shouted, np anchor, and let me\\ntow you into Port Macquarie, twelve miles north\\nof this.\\nNo, cried the owner; We 11 go back to New-\\ncastle. We missed Newcastle on the way coming\\nwe did n t see the light, and it was not thick,\\neither. This he shouted very loud, ostensibly\\nfor my hearing, but closer even than necessary, I\\nthought, to the ear of the navigating officer. Again\\nI tried to persuade them to be towed into the port\\nof refuge so near at hand. It would have cost them\\nonly the trouble of weighing their anchor and pass-\\ning me a rope of this I assured them, but they\\ndeclined even this, in sheer ignorance of a rational\\ncourse.\\nWhat is your depth of water I asked.\\nDon t know we lost our lead. All the chain\\nis out. We sounded with the anchor.\\nSend your dinghy over, and I 11 give you a lead.\\nWe ve lost our dinghy, too, they cried.\\nGod is good, else you would have lost your-\\nselves, and Farewell was all I could say.\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0The trifling service proffered by the Spray would\\nhave saved their vessel.\\nReport us, they cried, as I stood on report\\nus with sails blown away, and that we don t care\\na dash and are not afraid.\\nThen there is no hope for you, and again\\nFarewell.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "FRIENDS ON THE AUSTRALIAN COAST 191\\nI promised I would report them, and did so at\\nthe first opportunity, and out of humane reasons I\\ndo so again. On the following day I spoke the\\nsteamship Sherman^ bound down the coast, and re-\\nported the yacht in distress and that it would be\\nan act of humanity to tow her somewhere away\\nfrom her exposed position on an open coast. That\\nshe did not get a tow from the steamer was from\\nno lack of funds to pay the bill for the owner,\\nlately heir to a few hundred pounds, had the money\\nwith him. The proposed voyage to New Guinea\\nwas to look that island over with a view to its pur-\\nchase. It was about eighteen days before^ I heard\\nof the Akhar again, which was on the 31st of May,\\nwhen I reached Cooktown, on the Endeavor Eiver,\\nwhere I found this news\\nMay 31, the yacht AJchar, from Sydney for New Guinea,\\nthree hands on board, lost at Crescent Head the crew\\nsaved.\\nSo it took them several days to lose the yacht,\\nafter all.\\nAfter speaking the distressed AJchar and the\\nSherman, the voyage for many days was unevent-\\nful save in the pleasant incident on May 16 of a\\nchat by signal with the people on South Solitary\\nIsland, a dreary stone heap in the ocean just off\\nthe coast of New South Wales, in latitude 30\u00c2\u00b0 12\\nsouth.\\nWhat vessel is that f they asked, as the sloop\\ncame abreast of their island. For answer I tried\\nthem with the Stars and Stripes at the peak.\\nDown came their signals at once, and up went the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "192 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nBritish ensign instead, which they dipped heartily.\\nI understood from this that they made out my\\nvessel and knew all about her, for they asked\\nno more questions. They did n t even ask if the\\nvoyage would pay, but they threw out this\\nfriendly message, Wishing you a pleasant voy-\\nage, which at that very moment I was having.\\nMay 19 the Spray, passing the Tweed River,\\nwas signaled from Danger Point, where those on\\nshore seemed most anxious about the state of my\\nhealth, for they asked if all hands were well, to\\nwhich I could say, Yes.\\nOn the following day the Spray rounded Great\\nSandy Cape, and, what is a notable event in every\\nvoyage, picked up the trade-winds, and these winds\\nfollowed her now for many thousands of miles,\\nnever ceasing to blow from a moderate gale to a\\nmild summer breeze, except at rare intervals.\\nFrom the pitch of the cape was a noble light seen\\ntwenty-seven miles passing from this to Lady\\nElliott Light, which stands on an island as a senti-\\nnel at the gateway of the Barrier Eeef, the Spray\\nwas at once in the fairway leading north. Poets\\nhave sung of beacon-light and of pharos, but did\\never poet behold a great light flash up before his\\npath on a dark night in the midst of a coral sea\\nIf so, he knew the meaning of his song.\\nThe Spray had sailed for hours in suspense, evi-\\ndently stemming a current. Almost mad with\\ndoubt, I grasped the helm to throw her head off\\nshore, when blazing out of the sea was the light\\nahead. Excalibur cried all hands, and re-\\njoiced, and sailed on. The Spray was now in a", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "PERILS OF A CORAL SEA 193\\nprotected sea and- smooth water, the first she had\\ndipped her keel into since leaving Gribraltar, and a\\nchange it was from the heaving of the misnamed\\nPacific Ocean.\\nThe Pacific is perhaps, upon the whole, no more\\nboisterous than other oceans, though I feel quite\\nsafe in saying that it is not more pacific except in\\nname. It is often wild enough in one part or an-\\nother. I once knew a writer who, after saying\\nbeautiful things about the sea, passed through a\\nPacific hurricane, and he became a changed man.\\nBut where, after all, would be the poetry of the sea\\nwere there no wild waves 1 At last here was the\\nSpray in the midst of a sea of coral. The sea itself\\nmight be called smooth indeed, but coral rocks are\\nalways rough, sharp, and dangerous. I trusted now\\nto the mercies of the Maker of all reefs, keeping a\\ngood lookout at the same time for perils on every\\nhand.\\nLo! the Barrier Reef and the waters of many\\ncolors studded all about with enchanted islands!\\nI behold among them after all many safe harbors,\\nelse my vision is astray. On the 24th of May, the\\nsloop, having made one hundred and ten miles a\\nday from Danger Point, now entered Whitsunday\\nPass, and that night sailed through among the\\nislands. When the sun rose next morning I looked\\nback and regretted having gone by while it was\\ndark, for the scenery far astern was varied and\\ncharming.\\n13", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XV\\nArrival at Port Denison, Queensland A lecture Reminiscences\\nof Captain Cook Lecturing for charity at Cooktown A happy\\nescape from a coral reef Home Island, Sunday Island, Bird\\nIsland An American pearl-fisherman Jubilee at Thursday\\nIsland A new ensign for the Spray Booby Island Across the\\nIndian Ocean Christmas Island.\\nON the morning of the 26th Gloucester Island\\nwas close aboard, and the Spray anchored in\\nthe evening at Port Denison, where rests, on a hill,\\nthe sweet little town of Bowen, the future water-\\ning place and health-resort of Queensland. The\\ncountry all about here had a healthful appearance.\\nThe harbor was easy of approach, spacious and\\nsafe, and afforded excellent holding-ground. It\\nwas quiet in Bowen when the Spray arrived, and\\nthe good people with an hour to throw away on\\nthe second evening of her arrival came down to the\\nSchool of Arts to talk about the voyage, it being\\nthe latest event. It was duly advertised in the two\\nlittle papers, Boomerang and NuUy Nully, in\\nthe one the day before the affair came off, and\\nin the other the day after, which was all the same\\nto the editor, and, for that matter, it was the\\nsame to me.\\nBesides this, circulars were distributed with a\\nflourish, and the best bellman in Australia was\\n194", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "A LECTURE 195\\nemployed. But I could have keelhauled the wretch,\\nbell and all, when he came to the door of the little\\nhotel where my prospective audience and I were\\ndining, and with his clattering bell and fiendish\\nyell made noises that would awake the dead, all\\nover the voyage of the Spray from Boston to\\nBowen, the two Hubs in the cart-wheels of crea-\\ntion, as the Boomerang afterward said.\\nMr. Myles, magistrate, harbor-master, land com-\\nmissioner, gold warden, etc., was chairman, and in-\\ntroduced me, for what reason I never knew, except\\nto embarrass me with a sense of vain ostentation\\nand embitter my life, for Heaven knows I had met\\nevery person in town the first hour ashore. I knew\\nthem all by name now, and they all knew me.\\nHowever, Mr. Myles was a good talker. Indeed, I\\ntried to induce him to go on and tell the story\\nwhile I showed the pictures, but this he refused to\\ndo. I may explain that it was a talk illustrated by\\nstereopticon. The views were good, but the lan-\\ntern, a thirty-shilling affair, was wretched, and had\\nonly an oil-lamp in it.\\nI^sailed early the next morning before the papers\\ncame out, thinking it best to do so. They each\\nappeared with a favorable column, however, of\\nwhat they called a lecture, so I learned afterward,\\nand they had a kind word for the bellman besides.\\nFrom Port Denison the sloop ran before the con-\\nstant trade-wind, and made no stop at all, night or\\nday, till she reached Cooktown, on the Endeavor\\nEiver, where she arrived Monday, May 31, 1897,\\nbefore a furious blast of wind encountered that\\nday fifty miles down the coast. On this parallel of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "196 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nlatitude is the high ridge and backbone of the trade-\\nwinds, which about Cooktown amount often to a\\nhard gale.\\nI had been charged to navigate the route with\\nextra care, and to feel my way over the ground.\\nThe skilled officer of the royal navy who advised\\nme to take the Barrier Reef passage wrote me that\\nH. M. S. Orlando steamed nights as well as days\\nthrough it, but that I, under sail, would jeopardize\\nmy vessel on coral reefs if I undertook to do so.\\nConfidentially, it would have been no easy matter\\nfinding anchorage every- night. The hard work,\\ntoo, of getting the sloop under way every morning\\nwas finished, I had hoped, when she cleared the\\nStrait of Magellan. Besides that, the best of ad-\\nmiralty charts made it possible to keep on sailing\\nnight and day. Indeed, with a fair wind, and in\\nthe clear weather of that season, the way through\\nthe Barrier Reef Channel, in all sincerity, was\\nclearer than a highway in a busy city, and by all\\nodds less dangerous. But to any one contemplat-\\ning the voyage I would say, beware of reefs day\\nor night, or, remaining on the land, be wary still.\\nThe Spray came flying into port like a bird,\\nsaid the longshore daily papers of Cooktown the\\nmorning after she arrived and it seemed strange,\\nthey added, that only one man could be seen on\\nboard working the craft. The Spray was doing\\nher best, to be sure, for it was near night, and she\\nwas in haste to find a perch before dark.\\nTacking inside of all the craft in port, I moored\\nher at sunset nearly abreast the Captain Cook\\nmonument, and next morning went ashore to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "EEMmiSCENCES OF CAPTAIN COOK\\n197\\nfeast my eyes on the very stones the great naviga-\\ntor had seen, for I was now on a seaman s conse-\\ncrated ground. But there seemed a question in\\nThe Spray leaving Sydney, Australia, in the new suit of sails given\\nby Commodore Foy of Australia.\\n(From a pliotograpli.)\\nCooktown s mind as to the exact spot where his\\nship, the Endeavor, hove down for repairs on her\\nmemorable voyage around the world. Some said it\\nwas not at all at the place where the monument", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "198 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nnow stood. A discussion of the subject was going\\non one morhing where I happened to be, and a\\nyoung lady present, turning to me as one of some\\nauthority in nautical matters, very flatteringly\\nasked my opinion. Well, I could see no reason why\\nCaptain Cook, if he made up his mind to repair his\\nship inland, could n t have dredged out a channel\\nto the place where the monument now stood, if he\\nhad a dredging-machine with him, and afterward\\nfill it up again; for Captain Cook could do most\\nanything, and nobody ever said that he had n t a\\ndredger along. The young lady seemed to lean to\\nmy way of thinking, and following up the story of\\nthe historical voyage, asked if I had visited the\\npoint farther down the harbor where the great cir-\\ncumnavigator was murdered. This took my breath,\\nbut a bright school-boy coming along relieved my\\nembarrassment, for, like all boys, seeing that infor-\\nmation was wanted, he volunteered to supply it.\\nSaid he Captain Cook was n t murdered ere at\\nall, ma am e was killed in Hafrica a lion et im.\\nHere I was reminded of distressful days gone\\nby. I think it was in 1866 that the old steamship\\nSoiishay^ from Batavia for Sydney, put in at Cook-\\ntown for scurvy-grass, as I always thought, and\\nincidentally to land mails. On her sick-list was\\nmy fevered self and so I did n t see the place till\\nI came back on the Spray thirty-one years later.\\nAnd now I saw coming into port the physical\\nwrecks of miners from New Gruinea, destitute and\\ndying. Many had died on the way and had been\\nburied at sea. He would have been a hardened", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "LECTUEING FOR CHARITY AT COOKTOWN 199\\nwretch who could look on and not try to do some-\\nthing for them.\\nThe sympathy of all went out to these sufferers,\\nbut the little town was already straitened from a\\nlong run on its benevolence. I thought of the\\nmatter, of the lady s gift to me at Tasmania, which\\nI had promised myself I would keep only as a loan,\\nbut found now, to my embarrassment, that I had\\ninvested the money. However, the good Cooktown\\npeople wished to hear a story of the sea, and how\\nthe crew of the Spray fared when illness got aboard\\nof her. Accordingly the little Presbyterian church\\non the hill was opened for a conversation every-\\nbody talked, and they made a roaring success of it.\\nJudge Chester, the magistrate, was at the head of\\nthe gam, and so it was bound to succeed. He it\\nwas who annexed the island of New Gruinea to\\nGreat Britain. While I was about it, said he,\\nI annexed the blooming lot of it. There was a\\nring in the statement pleasant to the ear of an old\\nvoyager. However, the G-ermans made such a row\\nover the judge s mainsail haul that they got a share\\nin the venture.\\nWell, I was now indebted to the miners of Cook-\\ntown for the great privilege of adding a mite to a\\nworthy cause, and to Judge Chester all the town\\nwas indebted for a general good time. The matter\\nstanding so, I sailed on June 6, 1897, heading away\\nfor the north as before.\\nArrived at a very inviting anchorage about sun-\\ndown, the 7th, I came to, for the night, abreast the\\nClaremont light-ship. This was the only time", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "200 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nthroiigliont the passage of the Barrier Reef Chan-\\nnel that the Spray anchored, except at Port Denison\\nand at Endeavor River. On the very night follow-\\ning this, however (the 8th), I regretted keenly, for\\nan instant, that I had not anchored before dark, as\\nI might have done easily under the lee of a coral\\nreef. It happened in this way. The Spray had\\njust passed M Reef light-ship, and left the light\\ndipping astern, when, going at full speed, with\\nsheets off, she hit the M Reef itself on the north\\nend, where I expected to see a beacon.\\nShe swung off quickly on her heel, however, and\\nwith one more bound on a swell cut across the shoal\\npoint so quickly that I hardly knew how it was\\ndone. The beacon was n t there at least, I did n t\\nsee it. I had n t time to look for it after she struck,\\nand certainly it did n t much matter then whether\\nI saw it or not.\\nBut this gave her a fine departure for Cape\\nGrreenville, the next point ahead. I saw the ugly\\nboulders under the sloop s keel as she flashed over\\nthem, and I made a mental note of it that the letter\\nM, for which the reef was named, was the thirteenth\\none in our alphabet, and that thirteen, as noted\\nyears before, was still my lucky number. The na-\\ntives of Cape Greenville are notoriously bad, and I\\nwas advised to give them the go-by. Accordingly,\\nfrom M Reef I steered outside of the adjacent is-\\nlands, to be on the safe side. Skipping along now,\\nthe Spiray passed Home Island, off the pitch of the\\ncape, soon after midnight, and squared away on a\\nwesterly course. A short time later she fell in with\\na steamer bound south, groping her way in the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "HOME ISLAND, SUNDAY ISLAND, BIED ISLAND 201\\ndark and making the night dismal with her own\\nblack smoke.\\nFrom Home Island I made for Sunday Island,\\nand bringing that abeam, shortened sail, not wish-\\ning to make Bird Island, farther along, before\\ndaylight, the wind being still fresh and the islands\\nbeing low, with dangers about them. Wednesday,\\nJune 9, 1897, at daylight, Bird Island was dead\\nahead, distant two and a half miles, which I con-\\nsidered near enough. A strong current was press-\\ning the sloop forward. I did not shorten sail too\\nsoon in the night The first and only Australian\\ncanoe seen on the voyage was encountered here\\nstanding from the mainland, with a rag of sail set,\\nbound for this island.\\nA long, slim fish that leaped on board in the\\nnight was found on deck this morning. I had\\nit for breakfast. The spry chap was no larger\\naround than a herring, which it resembled in\\nevery respect, except that it was three times as\\nlong; but that was so much the better, for I am\\nrather fond of fresh herring, anyway. A great\\nnumber of fisher-birds were about this day, which\\nwas one of the pleasantest on God s earth. The\\nSpray, dancing over the waves, entered Albany\\nPass as the sun drew low in the west over the\\nhills of Australia.\\nAt 7:30 P.M. the Spray, now through the pass,\\ncame to anchor in a cove in the mainland, near a\\npearl-fisherman, called the Taratva, which was at\\nanchor, her captain from the deck of his vessel di-\\nrecting me to a berth. This done, he at once came\\non board to clasp hands. The Tarawa was a Call-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "202 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nfornian, and Captain Jones, her master, was an\\nAmerican.\\nOn the following morning Captain Jones brought\\non board two pairs of exquisite pearl shells, the\\nmost perfect ones I ever saw. They were probably\\nthe best he had, for Jones was the heart-yarn of a\\nsailor. He assured me that if I would remain a\\nfew hours longer some friends from Somerset, near\\nby, would pay us all a visit, and one of the crew,\\nsorting shells on deck, guessed they would.\\nThe mate guessed so, too. The friends came, as\\neven the second mate and cook had guessed they\\nwould. They were Mr. Jardine, stockman, famous\\nthroughout the land, and his family. Mrs. Jardine\\nwas the niece of King Malietoa, and cousin to the\\nbeautiful Faamu-Sami To make the sea burn\\nwho visited the Spray at Apia. Mr. Jardine was\\nhimseK a fine specimen of a Scotsman. With his\\nlittle family about him, he was content to live in\\nthis remote place, accumulating the comforts of\\nlife.\\nThe fact of the Tarawa having been built in\\nAmerica accounted for the crew, boy Jim and all,\\nbeing such good guessers. Strangely enough,\\nthough, Captain Jones himself, the only American\\naboard, was never heard to guess at all.\\nAfter a pleasant chat and good-by to the people\\nof the Tarawa, and to Mr. and Mrs. Jardine, I\\nagain weighed anchor and stood across for Thurs-\\nday Island, now in plain view, mid-channel in\\nTorres Strait, where I arrived shortly after noon.\\nHere the Spray remained over until June 24. Being\\nthe only American representative in port, this tarry", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "JUBILEE AT THURSDAY ISLAND 203\\nwas imperative, for on the 22d was the Queen s\\ndiamond j ubilee. The two days over were, as sailors\\nsay, for coming np.\\nMeanwhile I spent pleasant days about the island.\\nMr. Douglas, resident magistrate, invited me on a\\ncruise in his steamer one day among the islands in\\nTorres Strait. This being a scientific ex23edition\\nin charge of Professor Mason BaiLe} botanist, we\\nrambled over Friday and Saturday islands, where\\nI got a ghmpse of botany. Miss Bailey, the pro-\\nfessor s daughter, accompanied the expedition, and\\ntold me of many indigenous plants with long names.\\nThe 22d was the great day on Thursday Island,\\nfor then we had not only the jubilee, but a jubilee\\nwith a grand corroboree in it, Mr. Douglas having\\nbrought some four hundred native warriors and\\ntheir wives and children across from the mainland\\nto give the celebration the true native touch, for\\nwhen they do a thing on Thursday Island they do\\nit with a roar. The corroboree was, at any rate, a\\nhowling success. It took place at night, and the\\nperformers, painted in fantastic colors, danced or\\nleaped about before a blazing fire. Some were\\nrigged and painted like bh ds and beasts, in which\\nthe emu and kangaroo were well represented. One\\nfellow leaped like a frog. Some had the human\\nskeleton painted on their bodies, while they jumped\\nabout threateningly, spear in hand, ready to strike\\ndown some imaginary enemy. The kangaroo\\nhopped and danced with natural ease and grace,\\nmaking a fine figui e. All kept time to music, vocal\\nand instrumental, the instruments (save the mark\\nbeing bits of wood, which they beat one against", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "204 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nthe other, and saucer-like bones, held in the palm\\nof the hands, which they knocked together, making\\na dull sound. It was a show at once amusing,\\nspectacular, and hideous.\\nThe warrior aborigines that I saw in Queensland\\nwere for the most part lithe and fairly well built,\\nbut they were stamped always with repulsive fea-\\ntures, and their women were, if possible, still more\\nill favored.\\nI observed that on the day of the jubilee no for-\\neign flag was waving in the public grounds exae-pt\\nthe Stars and Stripes, which along with the Union\\nJack guarded the gateway, and floated in many\\nplaces, from the tiniest to the standard size. Speak-\\ning to Mr. Douglas, I ventured a remark on this\\ncompliment to my country. Oh, said he, this\\nis a family affair, and we do not consider the Stars\\nand Stripes a foreign flag. The Spray of course\\nflew her best bunting, and hoisted the Jack as well\\nas her own noble flag as high as she could.\\nOn June 24 the Spray, well fitted in every way,\\nsailed for the long voyage ahead, down the Indian\\nOcean. Mr. Douglas gave her a flag as she was\\nleaving his island. The Spray had now passed\\nnearly all the dangers of the Coral Sea and Torres\\nStrait, which, indeed, were not a few and all ahead\\nfrom this point was plain sailing and a straight\\ncourse. The trade-wind was still blowing fresh,\\nand could be safely counted on now down to the\\ncoast of Madagascar, if not beyond that, for it was\\nstill early in the season.\\nI had no wish to arrive off the Cape of Grood\\nHope before midsummer, and it was now early", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "BOOBY ISLAND 205\\nwinter, I had been off that cape once in July,\\nwhich was, of course, midwinter there. The stent\\nship I then commanded encountered only fierce\\nhurricanes, and she bore them ill. I wished for no\\nwinter gales now. It was not that I feared them\\nmore, being in the Spray instead of a large ship,\\nbut that I preferred fine weather in any case. It is\\ntrue that one may encounter heavy gales off the\\nCape of Grood Hope at any season of the year, but\\nin the summer they are less frequent and do not\\ncontinue so long. And so with time enough before\\nme to admit of a run ashore on the islands en route,\\nI shaped the course now for Keeling Cocos, atoll\\nislands, distant twenty-seven hundred miles. Tak-\\ning a departure from Booby Island, which the sloop\\npassed early in the day, I decided to sight Timor\\non the way, an island of high mountains.\\nBooby Island I had seen before, but only once,\\nhowever, and that was when in the steamshi]3\\nSoiishai/, onw hich I was hove-down in a fever.\\nWhen she steamed along this way I was well enough\\nto crawl on deck to look at Booby Island. Had I\\ndied for it, I would have seen that island. In those\\ndays passing ships landed stores in a cave on the\\nisland for shipwrecked and distressed wayfarers.\\nCaptain Airy of the SousJiay, a good man, sent a\\nboat to the cave with his contribution to the general\\nstore. The stores were landed in safety, and the\\nboat, returning, brought back from the improvised\\npost-office there a dozen or more letters, most of\\nthem left by whalemen, with the request that the\\nfirst homeward-boimd ship would carry them along\\nand see to theu- mailing, which had been the cus-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "206 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\ntorn of this strange postal service for many years.\\nSome of the letters brought back by our boat were\\ndirected to New Bedford, and some to Fairhaven,\\nMassachusetts.\\nThere is a light to-day on Booby Island, and\\nregular packet communication with the rest of the\\nworld, and the beautiful uncertainty of the fate of\\nletters left there is a thing of the past. I made no\\ncall at the little island, but standing close in, ex-\\nchanged signals with the keeper of the light. Sail-\\ning on, the sloop was at once in the Arafura Sea,\\nwhere for days she sailed in water milky white and\\ngreen and purple. It was my good fortune to enter\\nthe sea on the last quarter of the moon, the advan-\\ntage being that in the dark nights I witnessed the\\nphosphorescent light effect at night in its greatest\\nsplendor. The sea, where the sloop disturbed it,\\nseemed all ablaze, so that by its light I could see\\nthe smallest articles on deck, and her wake was a\\npath of fire.\\nOn the 25th of June the sloop was already clear\\nof all the shoals and dangers, and was sailing on a\\nsmooth sea as steadily as before, but with speed\\nsomewhat slackened. I got out the flying-jib made\\nat Juan Fernandez, and set it as a spinnaker from\\nthe stoutest bamboo that Mrs. Stevenson had given\\nme at Samoa. The spinnaker pulled like a sodger,\\nand the bamboo holding its own, the Spray mended\\nher pace.\\nSeveral pigeons flying across to-day from Aus-\\ntralia toward the islands bent their course over the\\nSpray. Smaller birds were seen flying in the op-\\nposite direction. In the part of the Arafura that I", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "ACROSS THE* INDIAN OCEAN 207\\ncame to first, where it was shallow, sea-snakes\\nwrithed about on the surface and tumbled over\\nand over in the waves. As the sloop sailed farther\\non, where the sea became deep, they disappeared.\\nIn the ocean, where the water is blue, not one was\\never seen.\\nIn the days of serene weather there was not much\\nto do but to read and take rest on the Spray, to\\nmake up as much as possible for the rotigh time\\noff Cape Horn, which was not yet forgotten, and\\nto forestall the Cape of Good Hope by a store of\\nease. My sea journal was now much the same\\nfrom day to day something like this of June 26\\nand 27, for example\\nJune 26, in the morning, it is a hit squally later in\\nthe day blowing a steady breeze.\\nOn the log at noon is 130 miles\\nSubtract correction for slip 10\\n120\\nAdd for current 10\\n130\\nXatitude by observation at noon, 10\u00c2\u00b0 23 S.\\nLongitude as per mark on the chart.\\nThere was n t much brain-work in that log, I m\\nsure. June 27 makes a better showing, when all\\nis told\\nFirst of all, to-day, was. a fljdng-fish on deck fried it\\nin butter.\\n133 miles on the log.\\nFor slip, off, and for current, on, as per guess, about\\nequal let it go at that.\\nLatitude by observation at noon, 10\u00c2\u00b0 25 S.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "208 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nFor several days now the Spray sailed west on\\nthe parallel of 10\u00c2\u00b0 25 S., as true as a hair. If she\\ndeviated at all from that, through the day or night,\\nand this may have happened, she was back,\\nstrangely enough, at noon, at the same latitude.\\nBut the greatest science was in reckoning the longi-\\ntude. My tin clock and only timepiece had by this\\ntime lost its minute-hand, but after I boiled her she\\ntold the hours, and that was near enough on a long\\nstretch.\\nOn the 2d of July the great island of Timor was\\nin view away to the nor ard. On the following day\\nI saw Dana Island, not far off, and a breeze came\\nup from the land at night, fragrant of the spices or\\nwhat not of the coast.\\nOn the 11th, with all sail set and with the spin-\\nnaker still abroad, Christmas Island, about noon,\\ncame into view one point on the starboard bow.\\nBefore night it was abeam and distant two and a\\nhalf miles. The surface of the island appeared\\nevenly rounded from the sea to a considerable\\nheight in the center. In outline it was as smooth\\nas a fish, and a long ocean swell, rolling up, broke\\nagainst the sides, where it lay like a monster asleep,\\nmotionless on the sea. It seemed to have the pro-\\nportions of a whale, and as the sloop sailed along\\nits side to the part where the head would be,\\nthere was a nostril, even, which was a blow-hole\\nthrough a ledge of rock where every wave that\\ndashed threw up a shaft of water, lifelike and real.\\nIt had been a long time since I last saw this\\nisland; but I remember my temporary admiration\\nfor the captain of the ship I was then in, the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "CHEISTilAS ISLAND 209\\nTanjore, when lie sang out one morning from the\\nquart er-deck, well aft, Gro aloft there, one of ye,\\nwith a pair of eyes, and see Christmas Island.\\nSure enough, there the island was in sight from\\nthe royal-yard. Captain M had thus made a\\ngreat hit, and he never got over it. The chief\\nmate, terror of us ordinaries in the ship, walking\\nnever to windward of the captain, now took him-\\nself very humbly to leeward altogether. When we\\narrived at Hong-Kong there was a letter in the\\nship s mail for me. I was in the boat with the\\ncaptain some hours while he had it. But do you\\nsuppose he could hand a letter to a seaman Xo,\\nindeed not even to an ordinary seaman. When\\nwe got to the ship he gave it to the first mate the\\nfi.rst mate gave it to the second mate, and he laid\\nit, michingiy, on the capstan-head, where I could\\nget it", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVI\\nA call for careful navigation Three honrs steering in twenty-\\nthree days Arrival at the Keeling Coeos Islands A curious\\nchapter of social history A welcome from the children of the\\nislands Cleaning and painting the Spray on the beach A Mo-\\nhammedan blessing for a pot of jam Keeling as a paradise A\\nrisky adventure in a small boat Away to Rodriguez Taken\\nfor Antichrist The governor calms the fears of the people A\\nlecture A convent in the hills.\\nTO the Keeling Coeos Islands was now only five\\nhundred and fifty miles but even in this short\\nrun it was necessary to be extremely careful in keep-\\ning a true course else I would miss the atoll.\\nOn the 12th, some hundred miles southwest of\\nChristmas Island, I saw anti-trade clouds flying up\\nfrom the southwest very high over the regular\\nwinds, which weakened now for a few days, while a\\nswell heavier than usual set in also from the south-\\nwest. A winter gale was going on in the direction\\nof the Cape of Grood Hope. Accordingly, I steered\\nhigher to windward, allowing twenty miles a day\\nwhile this went on, for change of current and it\\nwas not too much, for on that course I made the\\nKeeling Islands right ahead. The fii st unmistak-\\nable sign of the land was a visit one morning from\\na white tern that fluttered very knowingly about\\nthe vessel, and then took itself off westward with a\\nbusinesslike aii- in its wing. The tern is called by", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "THEEE HOUES STEEEINa IN TWENTY-TKREE DATS 211\\nthe islanders the pilot of Keeling Cocos. Far-\\nther on I came among a great number of birds fish-\\ning, and fighting over whatever they caught. My\\nreckoning was up, and springing aloft, I saw from\\nhalf-way up the mast cocoanut-trees standing out\\nof the water ahead. I expected to see this still, it\\nthrilled me as an electric shock might have done.\\nI slid down the mast, trembling under the strangest\\nsensations and not able to resist the impulse, I sat\\non deck and gave way to my emotions. To folks in\\na parlor on shore this may seem weak indeed, but\\nI am telling the story of a voyage alone.\\nI did n t touch the helm, for with the current and\\nheave of the sea the sloop found herself at the end\\nof the run absolutely in the fairway of the channel.\\nYou could n t have beaten it in the navy Then I\\ntrimmed her sails by the wind, took the helm, and\\nflogged her up the couple of miles or so abreast\\nthe harbor landing, where I cast anchor at 3 30\\np. M., July 17, 1897, twenty-three days from Thurs-\\nday Island. The distance run was twenty-seven\\nhundred miles as the crow flies. This would have\\nbeen a fair Atlantic voyage. It was a delightful\\nsail During those twenty-three days I had not\\nspent altogether more than three hours at the\\nhelm, including the time occupied in beating into\\nKeeling harbor. I just lashed the helm and let her\\ngo; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it\\nwas all the same she always sailed on her course.\\nNo part of the voyage up to this point, taking it by\\nand large, had been so finished as this.^\\n1 Mr. Andrew J. Leach, reporting, July 21, 1897, through Governor\\nKynnersley of Singapore, to Joseph Chamberlain, Colonial Secretary,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "212 SAILING ALONE AEOUNT) THE WORLD\\nThe Keeling Cocos Islands, according to Admiral\\nFitzroy, R. N., lie between the latitudes of 11\u00c2\u00b0 50\\nand 12\u00c2\u00b0 12 S., and the longitudes of 96\u00c2\u00b0 51 and\\n96\u00c2\u00b0 58 E. They were discovered in 1608-9 by\\nCaptain William Keeling, then in the service of\\nthe East India Company. The southern group\\nconsists of seven or eight islands and islets on the\\natoll, which is the skeleton of wha.t some day, ac-\\ncording to the history of coral reefs, will be a con-\\ntinuous island. North Keeling has no harbor, is\\nseldom visited, and is of no imjDortance. The\\nSouth Keelings are a strange little world, with\\na romantic history all their own. They have been\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0^dsited occasionally by the floating s]3ar of some\\nhurricane-swept ship, or by a tree that has drifted\\nall the way from Australia, or by an ill-starred\\nsaid concerniiig the Ijyliegenia-s Yisit to tlie atoU: As we left the\\nocean depths of deepest blue and entered the coral eii-cle, the con-\\ntrast was most remarkable. The brilliant colors of the waters,\\ntransparent to a depth of over thirty feet, now purple, now of the\\nbluest sky-blue, and now green, with the white crests of the waves\\nflashing under a brilliant sun, the encircling palm-clad\\nislands, the gaps between which were to the south undiscemible,\\nthe white sand shores and the whiter gaps where breakers appeared,\\nand, lastly, the lagoon itself, seven or eight miles across from north\\nto south, and five to six from east to west, presented a sight never to\\nbe forgotten. After some little delay, Mr. Sidney Ross, the eldest\\nson of Mr. George Ross, came off to meet us, and soon after, accom-\\npanied by the doctor and another officer, we went ashore.\\nOn reaching the landing-stage, we found, hauled up for cleaning,\\netc., the Sjjray of Boston, a yawl of 12.70 tons gross, the property of\\nCaptaiu Joshua Slocum. H r arrived at the island on the 17th of July,\\ntwenty-three days out from Thursday Island. This extraordinary\\nsolitary traveler left Boston some two years ago single-handed,\\ncrossed to Gibraltar, sailed down to Cape Horn, passed through the\\nStrait of Magellan to the Society Islands, thence to Australia, and\\nthrough the Torres Strait to Thursday Island.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "A CUEIOUS CHAPTER OF SOCIAL HISTORY 213\\nship cast away, and fiMally by man. Even a rock\\nonce drifted to Keeling, held fast among the roots\\nof a tree.\\nAfter the discovery of the islands by Captain\\nKeeling, their first notable visitor was Captain\\nJohn Clnnis-Eoss, who in 1814 touched in the ship\\nBorneo on a voyage to India. Captain Eoss re-\\nturned two years later with his wife and family\\nand his mother-in-law, Mrs. Dymoke, and eight\\nsailor-artisans, to take possession of the islands,\\nbut found there already one Alexander Hare, who\\nmeanwhile had marked the little atoll as a sort of\\nEden for a seraglio of Malay women which he\\nmoved over from the coast of Africa. It was\\nRoss s own brother, oddly enough, who freighted\\nHare and his crowd of women to the islands, not\\nknowing of Captain John s plans to occupy the\\nlittle world. And so Hare was there with his out-\\nfit, as if he had come to stay.\\nOn his previous visit, however, Ross had nailed\\nthe English Jack to a mast on Horsburg Island,\\none of the group. After two years shreds of it\\nstill fluttered in the wind, and his sailors, nothing\\nloath, began at once the invasion of the new king-\\ndom to take possession of it, women and all. The\\nforce of forty women, with only one man to com-\\nmand them, was not equal to driving eight sturdy\\nsailors back into the sea.^\\nFrom this time on Hare had a hard time of it.\\n_^ 1 In the accounts given in Findlay s Sailing Directory of some\\nof the events there is a chronological discrepancy. I follow the\\naccounts gathered from the old captain s grandsons and from records\\non the spot.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "214 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nHe and Ross did not get on well as neighbors. The\\nislands were too small and too near for characters\\nso widely different. Hare had oceans of money,\\nand might have lived well in London but he had\\nbeen governor of a wild colony in Borneo, and\\ncould not confine himself to the tame life that\\nprosy civilization affords. And so he hung on to\\nthe atoll with his forty women, retreating little by\\nlittle before Ross and his sturdy crew, till at last\\nhe found himself and his harem on the little island\\nknown to this day as Prison Island, where, like\\nBluebeard, he confined his wives in a castle. The\\nchannel between the islands was narrow, the water\\nwas not deep, and the eight Scotch sailors wore\\nlong boots. Hare was now dismayed. He tried\\nto compromise with rum and other luxuries, but\\nthese things only made matters worse. On the day\\nfollowing the first St. Andrew s celebration on the\\nisland. Hare, consumed with rage, and no longer\\non speaking terms with the captain, dashed off a\\nnote to him, saying: Dear Ross I thought when\\nI sent rum and roast pig to your sailors that they\\nwould stay away from my flower-garden. In\\nreply to which the captain, burning with indigna-\\ntion, shouted from the center of the island, where\\nhe stood, Ahoy, there, on Prison Island! You\\nHare, don t you know that rum and roast pig are not\\na sailor s heaven Hare said afterward that one\\nmight have heard the captain s roar across to Java.\\nThe lawless establishment was soon broken up\\nby the women deserting Prison Island and putting\\nthemselves under Ross s protection. Hare then\\nwent to Batavia, where he met his death.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "A WELCOME FEOM THE CHILDREN\\n215\\nMy first impression upon landing was that the\\ncrime of infanticide had not reached the islands of\\nKeeling Cocos. The children have all come to\\nThe Spray ashore for boot-topping at the Keeling Islands.\\n(From a photograph.)\\nwelcome you, explained Mr. Ross, as they mustered\\nat the jetty by hundreds, of all ages and sizes. The\\npeople of this country were all rather shy, but, young\\nor old, they never passed one or saw one passing", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "216 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ntheir door without a salutation. In their musical\\nvoices they would say, Are you walking? Jalan,\\njalan? Will you come along? one would\\nanswer.\\nFor a long time after I arrived the children\\nregarded the one-man ship with suspicion and\\nfear. A native man had been blown away to sea\\nmany years before, and they hinted to one another\\nthat he might have been changed from black to\\nwhite, and returned in the sloop. For some time\\nevery movement I made was closely watched.\\nThey were particularly interested in what I ate.\\nOne day, after I had been boot-topping the sloop\\nwith a composition of coal-tar and other stuff, and\\nwhile I was taking my dinner, with the luxury of\\nblackberry jam, I heard a commotion, and then a\\nyell and a stampede, as the children ran away\\nyelling The captain is eating coal-tar The\\ncaptain is eating coal-tar But they soon found\\nout that this same coal-tar was very good to eat,\\nand that I had brought a quantity of it. One day\\nwhen I was spreading a sea-biscuit thick with it for\\na wide-awake youngster, I heard them whisper,\\nChut-chut meaning that a shark had bitten my\\nhand, which they observed was lame. Thenceforth\\nthey regarded me as a hero, and I had not fingers\\nenough for the little bright-eyed tots that wanted\\nto cling to them and follow me about. Before this,\\nwhen I held out my hand and said, Come they\\nwould shy off for the nearest house, and say,\\nDingin It s cold or Ujan It s going\\nto rain But it was now accepted that I was\\nnot the returned spirit of the lost black, and I", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "A MOHAMMEDAN BLESSING 217\\nhad plenty of friends about the island, rain or\\nshine.\\nOne day after this, when I tried to haul the sloop\\nand found her fast in the sand, the children all\\nclapped their hands and cried that a Jcpeting (crab)\\nwas holding her by the keel and little Ophelia, ten\\nor twelve years of age, wrote in the Spray^s log-book:\\nA hundred men with might and main\\nOn the windlass hove, yeo ho\\nThe cable only came in twain\\nThe ship she would not go\\nFor, child, to tell the strangest thing,\\nThe keel was held by a great kpeting.\\nThis being so or not, it was decided that the Mo-\\nhammedan priest, Sama the Emim, for a pot of\\njam, should ask Mohammed to bless the voyage\\nand make the crab let go the sloop s keel, which it\\ndid, if it had hold, and she floated on the very next\\ntide.\\nOn the 22d of July arrived H. M. S. Iphegenia,\\nwith Mr. Justice Andrew J. Leech and court officers\\non board, on a circuit of inspection among the\\nStraits Settlements, of which Keeling Cocos was a\\ndependency, to hear complaints and try cases by\\nlaw, if any there were to try. They found the Spray\\nhauled ashore and tied to a cocoanut-tree. But at\\nthe Keeling Islands there had not been a grievance\\nto complain of since the day that Hare migrated,\\nfor the Rosses have always treated the islanders as\\ntheir own family.\\nIf there is a paradise on this earth it is Keeling.\\nThere was not a case for a lawyer, but something", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "218 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nhad to be done, for here were two ships in port, a\\ngreat man-of-war and the Spray. Instead of a law-\\nsuit a dance was got up, and all the officers who\\ncould leave their ship came ashore. Everybody on\\nthe island came, old and young, and the governor s\\ngreat hall was filled with people. All that could\\nget on their feet danced, while the babies lay in\\nheaps in the corners of the room, content to look\\non. My little friend Ophelia danced with the judge!\\nFor music two fiddles screeched over and over\\nagain the good old tune, We won t go home till\\nmorning. And we did not.\\nThe women at the Reelings do not do all the\\ndrudgery, as in many places visited on the voyage.\\nIt would cheer the heart of a Fuegian woman to\\nsee the Keeling lord of creation up a cocoanut-tree.\\nBesides cleverly climbing the trees, the men of\\nKeeling build exquisitely modeled canoes. By far\\nthe best workmanship in boat-building I saw on\\nthe voyage was here. Many finished mechanics\\ndwelt under the palms at Keeling, and the hum of\\nthe band-saw and the ring of the anvil were heard\\nfrom morning till night. The first Scotch settlers\\nleft there the strength of Northern blood and the\\ninheritance of steady habits. No benevolent so-\\nciety has ever done so much for any islanders as\\nthe noble Captain Ross, and his sons, who have\\nfollowed his example of industry and thrift.\\nAdmiral Fitzroy of the Beagle^ who visited here,\\nwhere many things are reversed, spoke of these\\nsingular though small islands, where crabs eat\\ncocoanuts, fish eat coral, dogs catch fish, men ride\\non turtles, and shells are dangerous man-traps,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "A EISKT ADVENTURE 219\\nadding tliat the greater part of the sea-fowl roost\\non branches, and many rats make their nests in\\nthe tops of palm-trees.\\nMy vessel being refitted, I decided to load her\\nwith the famous mammoth tridacna shell of Keel-\\ning, found in the bayou near by. And right here,\\nwithin sight of the village, I came near losing the\\ncrew of the Spray not from putting my foot in\\na man-trap shell, however, but from carelessly\\nneglecting to look after the details of a trip across\\nthe harbor in a boat. I had sailed over oceans I\\nhave since completed a course over them all, and\\nsailed round the whole world without so nearly\\nmeeting a fatality as on that trip across a lagoon,\\nwhere I trusted all to some one else, and he, weak\\nmortal that he was, perhaps trusted all to me.\\nHowever that may be, I found myself with a\\nthoughtless African negro in a rickety bateau that\\nwas fitted with a rotten sail, and this blew away in\\nmid-channel in a squall, that sent us drifting help-\\nlessly to sea, where we should have been incon-\\ntinently lost. With the whole ocean before us to\\nleeward, I was dismayed to see, while we drifted,\\nthat there was not a paddle or an oar in the boat\\nThere was an anchor, to be sure, but not enough\\nrope to tie a cat, and we were already in deep\\nwater. By great good fortune, however, there was\\na pole. Plying this as a paddle with the utmost\\nenergy, and by the merest accidental flaw in the\\nwind to favor us, the trap of a boat was worked\\ninto shoal water, where we could touch bottom and\\npush her ashore. With Africa, the nearest coast\\nto leeward, three thousand miles away, with not so", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "220\\nSAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nmuch as a drop of water in the boat, and a lean\\nand hungry negro well, cast the lot as one might,\\nthe crew of the Spray in a little while would have\\nTH^rwA* H.\\nCaptain Slocum drifting out to sea.\\nbeen hard to find. It is needless to say that I took\\nno more such chances. The tridacna were after-\\nward procured in a safe boat, thirty of them taking", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "AWAY TO RODRIGUEZ 221\\nthe place of three tons of cement ballast, which I\\nthrew overboard to make room and give buoyancy.\\nOn August 22, the kpeting, or whatever else it\\nwas that held the sloop in the islands, let go its\\nhold, and she swung out to sea under all sail,\\nheading again for home. Mounting one or two\\nheavy rollers on the fringe of the atoll, she cleared\\nthe flashing reefs. Long before dark Keeling Cocos,\\nwith its thousand souls, as sinless in their lives as\\nperhaps it is possible for frail mortals to be, was\\nleft out of sight, astern. Out of sight, I say, except\\nin my strongest affection.\\nThe sea was rugged, and the Spray washed hea-\\nvily when hauled on the wind, which course I took\\nfor the island of Rodriguez, and which brought the\\nsea abeam. The true course for the island was\\nwest by south, one quarter south, and the distance\\nwas nineteen hundred miles but I steered consid-\\nerably to the windward of that to allow for the\\nheave of the sea and other leeward effects. My\\nsloop on this course ran under reefed sails for\\ndays together. I naturally tired of the never-end-\\ning motion of the sea, and, above all, of the wetting\\nI got whenever I showed myself on deck. Under\\nthese heavy weather conditions the Spray seemed\\nto lag behind on her course at least, I attributed\\nto these conditions a discrepancy in the log, which\\nby the fifteenth day out from Keeling amounted to\\none hundred and fifty miles between the rotator\\nand the mental calculations I had kept of what\\nshe should have gone, and so I kept an eye lifting\\nfor land. I could see about sundown this day a\\nbunch of clouds that stood in one spot, right ahead,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "222 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nwhile the other clouds floated on this was a sign\\nof something. By midnight, as the sloop sailed on,\\na black object appeared where I had seen the rest-\\ning clouds. It was still a long way off, but there\\ncould be no mistaking this it was the high island\\nof Rodriguez. I hauled in the patent log, which I\\nwas now towing more from habit than from neces-\\nsity, for I had learned the Spray and her ways long\\nbefore this. If one thing was clearer than another in\\nher voyage, it was that she could be trusted to come\\nout right and in safety, though at the same time I al-\\nways stood ready to give her the benefit of even the\\nleast doubt. The officers who are over-sure, and\\nknow it all like a book, are the ones, I have ob-\\nserved, who wreck the most ships and lose the most\\nlives. The cause of the discrepancy in the log was\\none often met with, namely, coming in contact with\\nsome large fish two out of the four blades of the\\nrotator were crushed or bent, the work probably of\\na shark. Being sure of the sloop s position, I lay\\ndown to rest and to think, and I felt better for it.\\nBy daylight the island was abeam, about three\\nmiles away. It wore a hard, weather-beaten ap-\\npearance there, all alone, far out in the Indian Ocean,\\nlike land adrift. The windward side was uninvit-\\ning, but there was a good port to leeward, and I\\nhauled in now close on the wind for that. A pilot\\ncame out to take me into the inner harbor, which\\nwas reached through a narrow channel among coral\\nreefs.\\nIt was a curious thing that at all of the islands\\nsome reality was insisted on as unreal, while improb-\\nabilities were clothed as hard facts and so it hap-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "TAKEN FOE ANTICHEIST 223\\npened here that the good abbe, a few days before,\\nhad been telling his people about the coming of\\nAntichrist, and when they saw the Spray sail into\\nthe harbor, all feather-white before a gale of wind,\\nand run all standing upon the beach, and with only\\none man aboard, they cried, May the Lord help\\nus, it is he, and he has come in a boat which I\\nsay would have been the most improbable way of\\nhis coming. Nevertheless, the news went flying\\nthrough the place. The governor of the island,\\nMr. Roberts, came down immediately to see what\\nit was all about, for the little town was in a great\\ncommotion. One elderly woman, when she heard\\nof my advent, made for her house and locked her-\\nself in. When she heard that I was actually com-\\ning up the street she barricaded her doors, and did\\nnot come out while I was on the island, a period\\nof eight days. Governor Eoberts and his family\\ndid not share the fears of their people, but came on\\nboard at the jetty, where the sloop was berthed,\\nand their example induced others to come also.\\nThe governor s young boys took charge of the\\nSpray^s dinghy at once, and my visit cost his Ex-\\ncellency, besides great hospitality to me, the build-\\ning of a boat for them like the one belonging to\\nthe 8]^ray.\\nMy first day at this Land of Promise was to me\\nlike a fairy-tale. For many days I had studied the\\ncharts and counted the time of my arrival at this\\nspot, as one might his entrance to the Islands of\\nthe Blessed, looking upon it as the terminus of the\\nlast long run, made irksome by the want of many\\nthings with which, from this time on, I could keep", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "224 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nwell supplied. And behold, here was the sloop,\\narrived, and made securely fast to a pier in Rodri-\\nguez. On the first evening ashore, in the land of\\nnapkins and cut glass, I saw before me still the\\nghosts of hempen towels and of mugs with handles\\nknocked off. Instead of tossing on the sea, how-\\never, as I might have been, here was I in a bright\\nhall, smTounded by sparkling wit, and dining with\\nthe governor of the island Aladdin, I cried,\\nwhere is your lamp? My fisherman s lantern,\\nwhich I got at Grloucester, has shown me better\\nthings than your smoky old bm*ner ever revealed.\\nThe second day in port was spent in receiving\\nvisitors. Mrs. Roberts and her children came first\\nto shake hands, they said, with the Spray P\\nNo one was now afraid to come on board except\\nthe poor old woman, who still maintained that the\\nSpray had Antichrist in the hold, if, indeed, he had\\nnot already gone ashore. The governor entertained\\nthat evening, and kindly invited the destroyer of\\nthe world to speak for himself. This he did,\\nelaborating most effusively on the dangers of the\\nsea (which, after the manner of many of our frailest\\nmortals, he would have had smooth had he made\\nit) also by contrivances of light and darkness he\\nexhibited on the wall pictures of the places and\\ncountries visited on the voyage (nothing like the\\ncountries, however, that he would have made), and\\nof the people seen, savage and other, frequently\\ngroaning, Wicked world Wicked world When\\nthis was finished his Excellency the governor,\\nspeaking words of thankfulness, distributed pieces\\nof gold.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "A CONVENT IN THE HILLS 225\\nOn the following day I accompanied his Excel-\\nlency and family on a visit to San Grabriel, which\\nwas up the country among the hills. The good\\nabbe of San Gabriel entertained us all royally at\\nthe convent, and we remained his guests until the\\nfollowing day. As I was leaving his place, the\\nabbe said, Captain, I embrace you, and of what-\\never religion you may be, my wish is that you\\nsucceed in making your voyage, and that our\\nSaviour the Christ be always with you! To\\nthis good man s words I could only say, My dear\\nabbe, had all religionists been so liberal there would\\nhave been less bloodshed in the world.\\nAt Rodriguez one may now find every conve-\\nnience for filling pure and wholesome water in any\\nquantity, Grovernor Roberts having built a reser-\\nvoir in the hills, above the village, and laid pipes\\nto the jetty, where, at the time of my visit, there\\nwere five and a half feet at high tide. In former\\nyears well-water was used, and more or less sickness\\noccurred from it. Beef may be had in any quantity\\non the island, and at a moderate price. Sweet po-\\ntatoes were plentiful and cheap the large sack of\\nthem that I bought there for about four shillings\\nkept unusually well. I simply stored them in the\\nsloop s dry hold. Of fruits, pomegranates were\\nmost plentiful for two shillings I obtained a large\\nsack of them, as many as a donkey could pack\\nfrom the orchard, which, by the way, was planted\\nby nature herself.\\n15", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVII\\nA clean bill of health at Mauritius Sailing the voyage over again\\nin the opera-house A newly discovered plant named in honor\\nof the Spray s skipper A party of young ladies out for a sail\\nA bivouac on deck A warm reception at Durban A friendly\\ncross-examination by Henry M. Stanley Three wise Boers seek\\nproof of the flatness of the earth Leaving South Africa.\\nON the 16th of September, after eight restful\\ndays at Rodriguez, the mid-ocean land of\\nplenty, I set sail, and on the 19th arrived at Mau-\\nritius, anchoring at quarantine about noon. The\\nsloop was towed in later on the same day by the\\ndoctor s launch, after he was satisfied that I had\\nmustered all the crew for inspection. Of this he\\nseemed in doubt until he examined the papers,\\nwhich called for a crew of one all told from port\\nto port, throughout the voyage. Then finding that\\nI had been well enough to come thus far alone, he\\ngave me pratique without further ado. There was\\nstill another official visit for the Spray to pass\\nfarther in the harbor. The governor of Rodriguez,\\nwho had most kindly given me, besides a regular\\nmail, private letters of introduction to friends, told\\nme I should meet, first of all, Mr. Jenkins of the\\npostal service, a good man. How do you do, Mr.\\nJenkins? cried I, as his boat swuDg alongside.\\nYou don t know me, he said. Why not? I", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH AT MAUEITIUS 227\\nr^\\nThe Spray at Mauritius.\\nreplied. From where is the sloop? From\\naround the world, I again replied, very solemnly.\\nAnd alone? Yes; why not? And you\\nknow me? Three thousand years ago, cried\\nI, when you and I had a warmer job than we\\nhave now (even this was hot). You were then\\nJenkinson, but if you have changed your name\\nI don t blame you for that. Mr. Jenkins, for-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "228 SAILINa ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nbearing soul, entered into the spirit of the jest,\\nwhich served the Spray a good turn, for on the\\nstrength of this tale it got out that if any one\\nshould go on board after dark the devil would get\\nhim at once. And so I could leave the Spray with-\\nout the fear of her being robbed at night. The\\ncabin, to be sure, was broken into, but it was done\\nin daylight, and the thieves got no more than a\\nbox of smoked herrings before Tom Ledson, one\\nof the port officials, caught them red-handed, as it\\nwere, and sent them to jail. This was discourag-\\ning to pilferers, for they feared Ledson more than\\nthey feared Satan himself. Even Mamode Hajee\\nAyoob, who was the day-watchman on board, till\\nan empty box fell over in the cabin and frightened\\nhim out of his wits, could not be hired to watch\\nnights, or even till the sun went down. Sahib,\\nhe cried, there is no need of it, and what he said\\nwas perfectly true.\\nAt Mauritius, where I drew a long breath, the\\nSpray rested her wings, it being the season of fine\\nweather. The hardships of the voyage, if there had\\nbeen any, were now computed by officers of experi-\\nence as nine tenths finished, and yet somehow I\\ncould not forget that the United States was still a\\nlong way off.\\nThe kind people of Mauritius, to make me richer\\nand happier, rigged up the opera-house, which they\\nhad named the Ship PantaV^^ All decks and no\\nbottom was this ship, but she was as stiff as a\\nchui ch. They gave me free use of it while I talked\\nover the Spray^s adventures. His Honor the mayor\\n1 Guinea-hen.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "SAILINa THE VOYAGE IN THE OPERA-HOUSE 229\\nintroduced me to his Excellency the governor from\\nthe poop-deck of the Pantai. In this way I was\\nalso introduced again to our good consul, General\\nJohn P. Campbell, who had already introduced me\\nto his Excellency. I was becoming well acquainted,\\nand was in for it now to sail the voyage over again.\\nHow I got through the story I hardly know. It\\nwas a hot night, and I could have choked the tailor\\nwho made the coat I wore for this occasion. The\\nkind governor saw that I had done my part trying\\nto rig like a man ashore, and he invited me to\\nGrovernment House at Reduit, where I found myself\\namong friends.\\nIt was winter still off stormy Cape of Grood Hope,\\nbut the storms might whistle there. I determined\\nto see it out in milder Mauritius, visiting Eose Hill,\\nCuripepe, and other places on the island. I spent\\na day with the elder Mr. Roberts, father of Grov-\\nernor Roberts of Rodriguez, and with his friends\\nthe Very Reverend Fathers O Loughlin and McCar-\\nthy. Returning to the Spray by way of the great\\nflower conservatory near Moka, the proprietor,\\nhaving only that morning discovered a new and\\nhardy plant, to my great honor named it Slocum,\\nwhich he said Latinized it at once, saving him some\\ntrouble on the twist of a word and the good bota-\\nnist seemed pleased that I had come. How different\\nthings are in different countries! In Boston, Massa-\\nchusetts, at that time, a gentleman, so I was told,\\npaid thirty thousand dollars to have a flower named\\nafter his wife, and it was not a big flower either,\\nwhile Slocum, which came without the asking,\\nwas bigger than a mangel-wurzel", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "230 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nI was royally entertained at Moka, as well as at\\nReduit and other places once by seven young\\nladies, to whom I spoke of my inability to return\\ntheir hospitality except in my own poor way of\\ntaking them on a sail in the sloop. The very\\nthing The very thing they all cried. Then\\nplease name the time, I said, as meek as Moses.\\nTo-morrow! they all cried. And, aunty^ we\\nmay go, may n t we, and we 11 be real good for a\\nwhole week afterward, aunty! Say yes, aunty\\ndear All this after saying To-morrow for\\ngirls in Mauritius are, after all, the same as our\\ngirls in America and their dear aunt said Me,\\ntoo about the same as any really good aunt might\\nsay in my own country.\\nI was then in a quandary, it having recurred to\\nme that on the very to-morrow I was to dine\\nwith the harbor-master. Captain Wilson. How-\\never, I said to myself, The Spray will run out\\nquickly into rough seas; these young ladies will\\nhave mal de mer and a good time, and I 11 get in\\nearly enough to be at the dinner, after all. But\\nnot a bit of it. We sailed almost out of sight of\\nMauritius, and they just stood up and laughed at\\nseas tumbling aboard, while I was at the helm\\nmaking the worst weather of it I could, and spin-\\nning yarns to the aunt about sea-serpents and\\nwhales. But she, dear lady, when I had finished\\nwith stories of monsters, only hinted at a basket\\nof provisions they had brought along, enough to\\nlast a week, for I had told them about my wretched\\nsteward.\\nThe more the Spray tried to make these young", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "A PARTY OF YOUNG LADIES OUT FOR A SAIL 231\\nladies seasick, the more they all clapped their hands\\nand said, How lovely it is and How beautifully\\nshe skims over the sea and How beautiful our\\nisland appears from the distance and they still\\ncried, Go on We were fifteen miles or more\\nat sea before they ceased the eager cry, Go on\\nThen the sloop swung round, I still hoping to be\\nback to Port Louis in time to keep my appoint-\\nment. The Spray reached the island quickly, and\\nflew along the coast fast enough but I made a\\nmistake in steering along the coast on the way\\nhome, for as we came abreast of Tombo Bay it\\nenchanted my crew. Oh, let s anchor here\\nthey cried. To this no sailor in the world would\\nhave said nay. The sloop came to anchor, ten\\nminutes later, as they wished, and a young man on\\nthe cliff abreast, waving his hat, cried, Vive la\\nSpray My passengers said, Aunty, may n t\\nwe have a swim in the surf along the shore?\\nJust then the harbor-master s launch hove in sight\\ncoming out to meet us but it was too late to get\\nthe sloop into Port Louis that night. The launch\\nwas in time, however, to land my fair crew for a\\nswim but they were determined not to desert the\\nship. Meanwhile I prepared a roof for the night\\non deck with the sails, and a Bengali man-servant\\narranged the evening meal. That night the Spray\\nrode in Tombo Bay with her precious freight.\\nNext morning bright and early, even before the\\nstars were gone, I awoke to hear praying on\\ndeck.\\nThe port officers launch reappeared later in the\\nmorning, this time with Captain Wilson himself on", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "232 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nboard, to try Ms luck in getting the Spray into port,\\nfor he had heard of our predicament. It was worth\\nsomething to hear a friend tell afterward how ear-\\nnestly the good harbor-master of Mauritius said,\\nI 11 find the Spray and I 11 get her into port. A\\nmerry crew he discovered on her. They could hoist\\nsails like old tars, and could trim them, too. They\\ncould tell all about the ship s hoods, and one\\nshould have seen them clap a bonnet on the jib.\\nLike the deepest of deep-water sailors, they could\\nheave the lead, and as I hope to see Mauritius\\nagain any of them could have put the sloop in\\nstays. No ship ever had a fairer crew.\\nThe voyage was the event of Port Louis such a\\nthing as young ladies sailing about the harbor,\\neven, was almost unheard of before.\\nWhile at Mauritius the Spray was tendered the\\nuse of the military dock free of charge, and was\\nthoroughly refitted by the port authorities. My\\nsincere gratitude is also due other friends for\\nmany things needful for the voyage put on board,\\nincluding bags of sugar from some of the famous\\nold plantations.\\nThe favorable season now set in, and thus well\\nequipped, on the 26th of October, the Spray put to\\nsea. As I sailed before a light wind the island\\nreceded slowly, and on the following day I could\\nstill see the Puce Mountain near Moka. The\\nSpray arrived next day off Gralets, Reunion, and a\\npilot came out and spoke her. I handed him a\\nMauritius paper and continued on my voyage for\\nrollers were running heavily at the time, and it was\\nnot practicable to make a landing. From Reunion", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "A BIVOUAC ON DECK 233\\nI shaped a course direct for Cape St. Mary, Mada-\\ngascar.\\nThe sloop was now drawing near the limits of\\nthe trade-wind, and the strong breeze that had car-\\nried her with free sheets the many thousands of\\nmiles from Sandy Cape, Australia, fell lighter each\\nday until October 30, when it was altogether calm,\\nand a motionless sea held her in a hushed world.\\nI furled the sails at evening, sat down on deck, and\\nenjoyed the vast stillness of the night.\\nOctober 31 a light east-northeast breeze sprang\\nup, and the sloop passed Cape St. Mary about noon.\\nOn the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th of November, in the\\nMozambique Channel, she experienced a hard gale\\nof wind from the southwest. Here the Sjpray suf-\\nfered as much as she did anywhere, except off Cape\\nHorn. The thunder and lightning preceding this\\ngale were very heavy. From this point until the\\nsloop arrived off the coast of Africa, she encoun-\\ntered a succession of gales of wind, which drove\\nher about in many directions, but on the 17th of\\nNovember she arrived at Port Natal.\\nThis delightful place is the commercial center of\\nthe Grarden Colony, Durban itself, the city, being\\nthe continuation of a garden. The signalman from\\nthe bluff station reported the Spray fifteen miles off.\\nThe wind was freshening, and when she was within\\neight miles he said The Spray is shortening sail\\nthe mainsail was reefed and set in ten minutes.\\nOne man is doing all the work.\\nThis item of news was printed three minutes\\nlater in a Durban morning journal, which was\\nhanded to me when I arrived in port. I could not", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "234 SAILma ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nverify the time it had taken to reef the sail, for, as\\nI have ah eady said, the minute-hand of my time-\\npiece was gone. I only knew that I reefed as\\nquickly as I could.\\nThe same paper, commenting on the voyage, said:\\nJudging from the stormy weather which has pre-\\nvailed off this coast during the past few weeks, the\\nSpray must have had a very stormy voyage from\\nMauritius to Natal. Doubtless the weather would\\nhave been called stormy by sailors in any ship, but\\nit caused the Spray no more inconvenience than the\\ndelay natural to head winds generally.\\nThe question of how I sailed the sloop alone, often\\nasked, is best answered, perhaps, by a Durban news-\\npaper. I would shrink from repeating the editor s\\nwords but for the reason that undue estimates have\\nbeen made of the amount of skill and energy re-\\nquired to sail a sloop of even the Spraifs small ton-\\nnage. I heard a man who called himself a sailor\\nsay that it would require three men to do what it\\nwas claimed that I did alone, and what I found\\nperfectly easy to do over and over again; and I\\nhave heard that others made similar nonsensical\\nremarks, adding that I would work myself to death.\\nBut here is what the Durban paper said\\nAs briefly noted yesterday, the Spray, with a crew of\\none man, arrived at this port yesterday afternoon on her\\ncruise round the world. The Spray made quite an auspi-\\ncious entrance to Natal. Her commander sailed his craft\\nright up the channel past the main wharf, and dropped\\nhis anchor near the old Forerunner in the creek, before\\nany one had a chance to get on board. The Spray was\\nnaturally an object of great curiosity to the Point people,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "A WARM EECEPTION AT DURBAN\\n235\\nand her arrival was witnessed by a large crowd. Ttie\\nskilful manner in whicli Captain Slocnm steered his craft\\nabout the vessels which were occupying the waterway was\\na treat to witness.\\nThe Spray was not sailing in among greenhorns\\nwhen she came to Natal. When she arrived off the\\nport the pilot-ship, a fine, able steam-tug, came out\\no\\nL\\nft\\nCaptain Joshua Sloeum.\\nto meet her, and led the way in across the bar, for\\nit was blowing a smart gale and was too rough for\\nthe sloop to be towed with safety. The trick of\\ngoing in I learned by watching the steamer; it\\nwas simply to keep on the windward side of the\\nchannel and take the combers end on.\\nI found that Durban supported two yacht-clubs,\\nboth of them full of enterprise. I met all the mem-\\nbers of both clubs, and sailed in the crack yacht\\nFlorence of the Eoyal Natal, with Captain Sprad-\\nbrow and the Right Honorable Harry Escombe,\\npremier of the colony. The yacht s center-board", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "236 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nplowed furrows througli the mud-banks, which, ac-\\ncording to Mr. Escombe, Spradbrow afterward\\nplanted with potatoes. The Florence, however, won\\nraces while she tilled the skipper s land. After our\\nsail on the Florence Mr. Escombe offered to sail the\\nSpray round the Cape of Good Hope for me, and\\nhinted at his famous cribbage-board to while away\\nthe hours. Spradbrow, in retort, warned me of it.\\nSaid he, You would be played out of the sloop\\nbefore you could round the cape. By others it\\nwas not thought probable that the premier of Natal\\nwould play cribbage off the Cape of Grood Hope to\\nwin even the Spray.\\nIt was a matter of no small pride to me in South\\nAfrica to find that American humor was never at\\na discount, and one of the best American stories I\\never heard was told by the premier. At Hotel\\nRoyal one day, dining wdth Colonel Saunderson,\\nM. P., his son, and Lieutenant Tipping, I met Mr.\\nStanley. The great explorer was just from Pre-\\ntoria, and had already as good as flayed President\\nKriiger with his trenchant pen. But that did not\\nsignify, for everybody has a whack at Oom Paul,\\nand no one in the world seems to stand the joke\\nbetter than he, not even the Sultan of Turkey him-\\nself. The colonel introduced me to the explorer,\\nand I hauled close to the wind, to go slow, for Mr.\\nStanley was a nautical man once himself, on the\\nNyanza, I think, and of course my desire was to\\nappear in the best light before a man of his expe-\\nrience. He looked me over carefully, and said,\\nWhat an example of patience Patience is\\nall that is required, I ventured to reply. He then", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "CROSS-EXAMINATION BY HENRY M. STANLEY 237\\nasked if my vessel had water-tight compartments.\\nI explained that she was all water-tight and all\\ncompartment. What if she shonld strike a rock?\\nhe asked. Compartments would not save her if\\nshe should hit the rocks lying along her course, said\\nI; adding, she must be kept away from the rocks.\\nAfter a considerable pause Mr. Stanley asked,\\nWhat if a swordfish should pierce her hull with\\nits sword? Of course I had thought of that as\\none of the dangers of the sea, and also of the chance\\nof being struck by lightning. In the case of the\\nswordfish, I ventured to say that the first thing\\nwould be to secure the sword. The colonel invited\\nme to dine with the party on the following day,\\nthat we might go further into this matter, and so I\\nhad the pleasure of meeting Mr. Stanley a second\\ntime, but got no more hints in navigation from the\\nfamous explorer.\\nIt sounds odd to hear scholars and statesmen say\\nthe world is flat but it is a fact that three Boers\\nfavored by the opinion of President Kriiger pre-\\npared a work to support that contention. While\\nI was at Durban they came from Pretoria to obtain\\ndata from me, and they seemed annoyed when I\\ntold them that they could not prove it by my ex-\\nperience. With the advice to call up some ghost\\nof the dark ages for research, I went ashore, and\\nleft these three wise men poring over the Spray^s\\ntrack on a chart of the world, which, however,\\nproved nothing to them, for it was on Mercator s\\nprojection, and behold, it was flat. The next\\nmorning I met one of the party in a clergyman s\\ngarb, carrying a large Bible, not different from the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "238 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\none I had read. He tackled me, saying, If yon\\nrespect the Word of God, you must admit that the\\nworld is flat. If the Word of God stands on a flat\\nworld I began. What! cried he, losing him-\\nself in a passion, and making as if he would run\\nme through with an assagai. What! he shouted\\nin astonishment and rage, while I jumped aside to\\ndodge the imaginary weapon. Had this good but\\nmisguided fanatic been armed with a real weapon,\\nthe crew of the Spray would have died a martyr\\nthere and then. The next day, seeing him across\\nthe street, I bowed and made curves with my\\nhands. He responded with a level, swimming\\nmovement of his hands, meaning the world is\\nflat. A pamphlet by these Transvaal geographers,\\nmade up of arguments from sources high and low\\nto prove their theory, was mailed to me before I\\nsailed from Africa on my last stretch around the\\nglobe.\\nWhile I feebly portray the ignorance of these\\nlearned men, I have great admiration for their phy-\\nsical manhood. Much that I saw first and last of\\nthe Transvaal and the Boers was admirable. It is\\nwell known that they are the hardest of fighters,\\nand as generous to the fallen as they are brave be-\\nfore the foe. Real stubborn bigotry with them is\\nonly found among old fogies, and will die a natural\\ndeath, and that, too, perhaps long before we our-\\nselves are entirely free from bigotry. Education\\nin the Transvaal is by no means neglected, English\\nas well as Dutch being taught to all that can afford\\nboth but the tariff duty on English school-books\\nis heavy, and from necessity the poorer people", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "LEAVING SOUTH AFRICA 239\\nstick to the Transvaal Dutch and their flat world,\\njust as in Samoa and other islands a mistaken\\npolicy has kept the natives down to Kanaka.\\nI visited many public schools at Durban, and\\nhad the pleasure of meeting many bright children.\\nBut all fine things must end, and December 14,\\n1897, the crew of the Spray, after having a fine\\ntime in JSTatal, swung the sloop s dinghy in on deck,\\nand sailed with a morning land-wind, which car-\\nried her clear of the bar, and again she was off on\\nher alone, as they say in Australia.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVIII\\nRounding the Cape of Storms in olden time A rougli Christmas\\nThe Spray ties up for a three months rest at Cape Town A\\nrailway trip to the Transvaal President Kruger s odd definition\\nof the Spray s voyage His terse sayings Distinguished guests\\non the Spray Cocoanut fiber as a padlock Courtesies from\\nthe admiral of the Queen s navy Off for St. Helena Land\\nin sight.\\nTHE Cape of Grood Hope was now the taost prom-\\ninent point to pass. From Table Bay I could\\ncount on the aid of brisk trades, and then the\\nSpray would soon be at home. On the first day out\\nfrom Durban it fell calm, and I sat thinking about\\nthese things and the end of the voyage. The dis-\\ntance to Table Bay, where I intended to call, was\\nabout eight hundred miles over what might prove\\na rough sea. The early Portuguese navigators, en-\\ndowed with patience, were more than sixty-nine\\nyears struggling to round this eape before they\\ngot as far as Algoa Bay, and there the crew muti-\\nnied. They landed on a small island, now called\\nSanta Cruz, where they devoutly set up the cross,\\nand swore they would cut the captain s throat if\\nhe attempted to sail farther. Beyond this they\\nthought was the edge of the world, which they too\\nbelieved was flat and fearing that their ship\\nwould sail over the brink of it, they compelled\\nCaptain Diaz, their commander, to retrace his", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "A EOUGH CHRISTMAS 241\\ncourse, all being only too glad to get home. A\\nyear later, we are told, Vasco da Gama sailed\\nsuccessfully round the Cape of Storms, as the\\nCape of Good Hope was then called, and discov-\\nered Natal on Christmas or Natal day; hence the\\nname. From this point the way to India was easy.\\nGales of wind sweeping round the cape even\\nnow were frequent enough, one occurring, on an\\naverage, every thirty-six hours but one gale was\\nmuch the same as another, with no more serious\\nresult than to blow the Spray along on her course\\nwhen it was fair, or to blow her back somewhat\\nwhen it was ahead. On Christmas, 1897, 1 came to\\nthe pitch of the cape. On this day the Spray was\\ntrying to stand on her head, and she gave me every\\nreason to believe that she would accomplish the\\nfeat before night. She began very early in the\\nmorning to pitch and toss about in a most unusual\\nmanner, and I have to record that, while I was at\\nthe end of the bowsprit reefing the jib, she ducked\\nme under water three times for a Christmas box. I\\ngot wet and did not like it a bit: never in any other\\nsea was I put under more than once in the same\\nshort space of time, say three minutes. A large\\nEnglish steamer passing ran up the signal, Wish-\\ning you a Merry Christmas. I think the captain\\nwas a humorist; his own ship was throwing her\\npropeller out of water.\\nTwo days later, the Spray, having recovered the\\ndistance lost in the gale, passed Cape Agulhas in\\ncompany with the steamship Scotsman, now with a\\nfair wind. The keeper of the light on Agulhas ex-\\nchanged signals with the Spray as she passed, and", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "242 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nafterward wi ote me at New York congratulations\\non the completion of the voyage. He seemed to\\nthink the incident of two ships of so widely differ-\\nent types passing his cape together worthy of a\\nplace on canvas, and he went about having the\\npicture made. So I gathered from his letter. At\\nlonely stations like this hearts grow responsive\\nand sympathetic, and even poetic. This feeling\\nwas shown toward the Spray along many a rugged\\ncoast, and reading many a kind signal thrown\\nout to her gave one a grateful feeling for all the\\nworld.\\nOne more gale of wind came down upon the\\nSpray from the west after she passed Cape Agu-\\nIhas, but that one she dodged by getting into\\nSimons Bay. When it moderated she beat around\\nthe Cape of Grood Hope, where they say the Flying\\nDutchman is still sailing. The voyage then seemed\\nas good as finished from this time on I knew that\\nall, or nearly all, would be plain sailing.\\nHere I crossed the dividing-line of weather. To\\nthe north it was clear and settled, while south it\\nwas humid and squally, with, often enough, as I\\nhave said, a treacherous gale. From the recent\\nhard weather the Spray ran into a calm under\\nTable Mountain, where she lay quietly till the gen-\\nerous sun rose over the land and drew a breeze in\\nfrom the sea.\\nThe steam- tug Alert, then out looking for ships,\\ncame to the Spray off the Lion s Rump, and in lieu\\nof a larger ship towed her into port. The sea being\\nsmooth, she came to anchor in the bay off the city\\nof Cape Town, where she remained a day, simply", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "PRESIDENT KRUGEE S ODD DEFINITION 243\\nto rest clear of the bustle of commerce. The good\\nharbor-master sent his steam-launch to bring the\\nsloop to a berth in dock at once, but I preferred to\\nremain for one day alone, in the quiet of a smooth\\nsea, enjoying the retrospect of the passage of the\\ntwo great capes. On the following morning the\\nSpray sailed into the Alfred Dry-docks, where she\\nremained for about three months in the care of the\\nport authorities, while I traveled the country over\\nfrom Simons Town to Pretoria, being accorded by\\nthe colonial government a free ra,ilroad pass over\\nall the land.\\nThe trip to Kimberley, Johannesburg, and Pre-\\ntoria was a pleasant one. At the last-named place\\nI met Mr. Kriiger, the Transvaal president. His\\nExcellency received me cordially enough but my\\nfriend Judge Beyers, the gentleman who presented\\nme, by mentioning that I was on a voyage around\\nthe world, unwittingly gave great offense to the\\nvenerable statesman, which we both regretted\\ndeeply. Mr. Kriiger corrected the judge rather\\nsharply, reminding him that the world is flat. You\\ndon t mean round the world, said the president;\\nit is impossible You mean in the world. Im-\\npossible he said, impossible and not another\\nword did he utter either to the judge or to me. The\\njudge looked at me and I looked at the judge, who\\nshould have known his ground, so to speak, and\\nMr. Kriiger glowered at us both. My friend the\\njudge seemed embarrassed, but I was delighted;\\nthe incident pleased me more than anything else\\nthat could have happened. It was a nugget of\\ninformation quarried out of Oom Paul, some of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "DISTINGUISHED GUESTS ON THE SPRAY 245\\nwhose sayings are famous. Of the English he\\nsaid, They took first my coat and then my trou-\\nsers. He also said, Dynamite is the corner-stone\\nof the South African Eepublic. Only unthinking\\npeople call President Kriiger dull.\\nSoon after my arrival at the cape, Mr. Kriiger s\\nfriend Colonel Saunderson,i who had arrived from\\nDurban some time before, invited me to Newlands\\nVineyard, where I met many agreeable people.\\nHis Excellency Sir Alfred Milner, the governor,\\nfound time to come aboard with a party. The\\ngovernor, after making a survey of the deck,\\nfound a seat on a box in my cabin Lady Muriel\\nsat on a keg, and Lady Saunderson sat by the\\nskipper at the wheel, while the colonel, with his\\nkodak, away in the dinghy, took snap shots of the\\nsloop and her distinguished visitors. Dr. David\\nGrill, astronomer royal, who was of the party,\\ninvited me the next day to the famous Cape\\nObservatory. An hour with Dr. Grill was an hour\\namong the stars. His discoveries in stellar pho-\\ntography are well known. He showed me the great\\nastronomical clock of the observatory, and I\\nshowed him the tin clock on the Spray, and we\\nwent over the subject of standard time at sea, and\\nhow it was found from the deck of the little sloop\\nwithout the aid of a clock of any kind. Later it\\nwas advertised that Dr. Grill would preside at a\\ntalk about the voyage of the Spray: that alone\\nsecured for me a full house. The hall was packed,\\nand many were not able to get in. This success\\nColonel Saunderson was Mr. Kriiger s very best friend, inasmucli as he\\nadvised the president to avast mounting guns.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "246 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nbrought me sufi cient money for all my needs in\\nport and for the homeward voyage.\\nAfter visiting Kimberley and Pretoria, and find-\\ning the Spray all right in the docks, I returned to\\nWorcester and Wellington, towns famous for col-\\nleges and seminaries, passed coming in, still travel-\\ning- as the guest of the colony. The ladies of\\nall these institutions of learning wished to know\\nhow one might sail round the world alone, which\\nI thought augured of sailing-mistresses in the\\nfuture instead of sailing-masters. It will come\\nto that yet if we men-folk keep on saying we\\ncan t.\\nOn the plains of Africa I passed through hun-\\ndreds of miles of rich but still barren land, save for\\nscrub-bushes, on which herds of sheep were brows-\\ning. The bushes grew about the length of a sheep\\napart, and they, I thought, were rather long of\\nbody but there was still room for all. My long-\\ning for a foothold on land seized upon me here,\\nwhere so much of it lay waste; but instead of\\nremaining to plant forests and reclaim vegetation,\\nI returned again to the Spray at the Alfred Docks,\\nwhere I found her waiting for me, with everything\\nin order, exactly as I had left her.\\nI have often been asked how it was that my ves-\\nsel and all appurtenances were not stolen in the\\nvarious ports where I left her for days together\\nwithout a watchman in charge. This is just how it\\nwas The Spray seldom fell among thieves. At the\\nKeeling Islands, at Rodriguez, and at many such\\nplaces, a wisp of cocoanut fiber in the door-latch,\\nto indicate that the owner was away, secured the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "COURTESIES FROM THE ADMIRAL\\n247\\ngoods against even a longing glance. But when I\\ncame to a great island nearer home, stout locks\\nwere needed the first night in port things which\\nCaptain Slocum, Sir Alfred Milner (with the tall hat), and Colonel\\nSaunderson, M. P., on the bow of the Spray at Cape Town.\\nI had always left uncovered disappeared, as if the\\ndeck on which they were stowed had been swept\\nby a sea.\\nA pleasant visit from Admiral Sir Harry Raw-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "248 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nson of the Royal Navy and his family brought\\nto an end the Spray^s social relations with the\\nCape of Good Hope. The admiral, then com-\\nmanding the South African Squadron, and now in\\ncommand of the great Channel fleet, evinced the\\ngreatest interest in the diminutive Spray and her\\nbehavior off Cape Horn, where he was not an entire\\nstranger. I have to admit that I was delighted\\nwith the trend of Admiral Rawson s questions, and\\nthat I profited by some of his suggestions, not-\\nwithstanding the wide difference in our respective\\ncommands.\\nOn March 26, 1898, the Spray sailed from South\\nAfrica, the land of distances and pure air, where\\nshe had spent a pleasant and profitable time. The\\nsteam-tug Tigre towed her to sea from her wonted\\nberth at the Alfred Docks, giving her a good offing.\\nThe light morning breeze, which scantily filled her\\nsails when the tug let go the tow-line, soon died\\naway altogether, and left her riding over a heavy\\nswell, in full view of Table Mountain and the high\\npeaks of the Cape of Grood Hope. For a while\\nthe grand scenery served to relieve the monotony.\\nOne of the old circumnavigators (Sir Francis Drake,\\nI think), when he first saw this magnificent pile,\\nsang, T is the fairest thing and the grandest cape\\nI ve seen in the whole circumference of the earth,\\nThe view was certainly fine, but one has no wish\\nto linger long to look in a calm at anything, and\\nI was glad to note, finally, the short heaving sea,\\nprecursor of the wind which followed on the second\\nday. Seals playing about the Spray all day, before\\nthe breeze came, looked with large eyes when, at", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "OFF FOR ST. HELENA 249\\nevening, she sat no longer like a lazy bird with\\nfolded wings. They parted company now, and the\\nSpray soon sailed the highest peaks of the moun-\\ntains out of sight, and the world changed from a mere\\nI\\nHeading day and night.\\npanoramic view to the light of a homeward-bound\\nvoyage. Porpoises and dolphins, and such other\\nfishes as did not mind making a hundred and fifty\\nmiles a day, were her companions now for several", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "250 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ndays. The wind was from the southeast this suited\\nthe Spray well, and she ran along steadilj^ at her best\\nspeed, while I dipped into the new books given me\\nat the cape, reading day and night. March 30 was\\nfor me a fast-day in honor of them. I read on,\\nobli^doiis of hunger or wind or sea, thinking that\\nall was going well, when suddenly a comber rolled\\nover the stern and slopped saucily into the cabin,\\nwetting the very book I was reading. Evidently it\\nwas time to put in a reef, that she might not wal-\\nlow on her course.\\nMarch 31 the fresh southeast wind had come to\\nsta}^ The Spray was running under a single-\\nreefed mainsail, a whole jib, and a flying-jib\\nbesides, set on the Yailima bamboo, while I was\\nreading Stevenson s delightful Inland Voyage.\\nThe sloop was again doing her work smoothly,\\nhardh^ rolling at all, but just leaping along among\\nthe white horses, a thousand gamboling porpoises\\nkeeping her company on all sides. She was again\\namong her old friends the fl}T.ng-fish, interesting\\ndenizens of the sea. Shooting out of the waves\\nlike arrows, and with outstretched wings, they\\nsailed on the wind in graceful curves then falling\\ntill again they touched the crest of the waves to wet\\ntheir delicate wings and renew the flight. They\\nmade merry the livelong day. One of the joyful\\nsights on the ocean of a bright day is the continual\\nflight of these interesting fish.\\nOne could not be lonely in a sea like this. More-\\nover, the reading of delightful adventures enhanced\\nthe scene. I was now in the Spray and on the\\nOise in the Arethusa at one and the same time.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "LAND IN SIGHT 251\\nAnd SO the Spray reeled off the miles, showing a\\ngood run every day till April 11, which came al-\\nmost before I knew it. Very early that morning I\\nwas awakened by that rare bird, the booby, with\\nits harsh quack, which I recognized at once as\\na call to go on deck; it was as much as to say,\\nSkipper, there s land in sight. I tumbled out\\nquickly, and sure enough, away ahead in the ,dim\\ntwilight, about twenty miles off, was St. Helena.\\nMy first impulse was to call out, Oh, what a\\nspeck in the sea! It is in reality nine miles in\\nlength and two thousand eight hundred and\\ntwenty-three feet in height. I reached for a bottle\\nof port-wine out of the locker, and took a long pull\\nfrom it to the health of my invisible helmsman\\nthe pilot of the Pinta.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIX\\nIn the isle of Napoleon s exile Two lectures A guest in the ghost-\\nroom at Plantation House An excui-sion to historic Longwood\\nCoffee in the husk, and a goat to shell it The Spray s ill luck\\nwith animals A prejudice against small dogs A rat, the Boston\\nspider, and the cannibal cricket Ascension Island.\\nIT was about noon when the Spray came to anchor\\noff Jamestown, and all hands at once went\\nashore to pay respects to his Excellency the gov-\\nernor of the island, Sir R. A. Sterndale. His Ex-\\ncellency, when I landed, remarked that it was not\\noften, nowadays, that a circumnavigator came his\\nway, and he cordially welcomed me, and arranged\\nthat I should tell about the voyage, first at Garden\\nHall to the people of Jamestown, and then at\\nPlantation House the governor s residence, which\\nis in the hills a mile or two back to his Excel-\\nlency and the officers of the garrison and their\\nfriends. Mr, Poole, our worthy consul, introduced\\nme at the castle, and in the course of his remarks\\nasserted that the sea-serpent was a Yankee.\\nMost royally was the crew of the Spray enter-\\ntained by the governor. I remained at Plantation\\nHouse a couple of days, and one of the rooms in\\nthe mansion, called the west room, being haunted,\\nthe butler, by command of his Excellency, put me", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "IN THE ISLE OF NAPOLEON S EXILE 253\\nup in that like a prince. Indeed, to make sure\\nthat no mistake had been made, his Excellency\\ncame later to see that I was in the right room, and\\nto tell me all about the ghosts he had seen or heard\\nof. He had discovered all but one, and wishing\\nme pleasant dreams, he hoped I might have the\\nhonor of a visit from the unknown one of the west\\nroom. For the rest of the chilly night I kept the\\ncandle burning, and often looked from under the\\nblankets, thinking that maybe I should meet the\\ngreat Napoleon face to face but I saw only furni-\\nture, and the horseshoe that was nailed over the\\ndoor opposite my bed.\\nSt. Helena has been an island of tragedies\\ntragedies that have been lost sight of in wailing\\nover the Corsican. On the second day of my visit\\nthe governor took me by carriage-road through the\\nturns over the island. At one point of our journey\\nthe road, in winding around spurs and ravines,\\nformed a perfect W within the distance of a few\\nrods. The roads, though tortuous and steep, were\\nfairly good, and I was struck with the amount of\\nlabor it must have cost to build them. The air on\\nthe heights was cool and bracing. It is said that,\\nsince hanging for trivial offenses went out of\\nfashion, no one has died there, except from falling\\nover the cliffs in old age, or from being crushed by\\nstones rolling on them from the steep mountains\\nWitches at one time were persistent at St. Helena,\\nas with us in America in the days of Cotton Mather.\\nAt the present day crime is rare in the island.\\nWhile I was there, Grovernor Sterndale, in token\\nof the fact that not one criminal case had come to", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "254 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ncourt within the year, was presented with a pair\\nof white gloves by the officers of justice.\\nReturning from the governor s house to James-\\ntown, I drove with Mr. Clark, a countryman of\\nmine, to Longwood, the home of Napoleon. M.\\nMorilleau, French consular agent in charge, keeps\\nthe place respectable and the buildings in good re-\\npair. His family at Longwood, consisting of wife\\nand grown daughters, are natives of courtly and\\nrefined manners, and spend here days, months, and\\nyears of contentment, though they have never seen\\nthe world beyond the horizon of St. Helena.\\nOn the 20th of April the Spray was again ready\\nfor sea. Before going on board I took luncheon\\nwith the governor and his family at the castle.\\nLady Sterndale had sent a large fruit-cake, early\\nin the morning, from Plantation House, to be taken\\nalong on the voyage. It was a great high-decker,\\nand I ate sparingly of it, as I thought, but it did\\nnot keep as I had hoped it would. I ate the last\\nof it along with my first cup of coffee at Antigua,\\nWest Indies, which, after all, was quite a record.\\nThe one my own sister made me at the little island\\nin the Bay of Fundy, at the first of the voyage,\\nkept about the same length of time, namely, forty-\\ntwo days.\\nAfter luncheon a royal mail was made up for\\nAscension, the island next on my way. Then Mr.\\nPoole and his daughter paid the Spray a farewell\\nvisit, bringing me a basket of fruit. It was late in\\nthe evening before the anchor was up, and I bore\\noff for the west, loath to leave my new friends.\\nBut fresh winds filled the sloop s sails once more,", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "COFFEE IN THE HUSK, AND A GOAT TO SHELL IT 255\\nand I watched the beacon-light at Plantation House,\\nthe governor s parting signal for the Spray, till\\nthe island faded in the darkness astern and became\\none with the night, and by midnight the light itself\\nhad disappeared below the horizon.\\nWhen morning came there was no land in sight,\\nbut the day went on the same as days before, save\\nfor one small incident. Governor Sterndale had\\ngiven me a bag of coffee in the husk, and Clark,\\nthe American, in an evil moment, had put a goat\\non board, to butt the sack and hustle the coffee-\\nbeans out of the pods. He urged that the animal,\\nbesides being useful, would be as companionable\\nas a dog. I soon found that my sailing-com-\\npanion, this sort of dog with horns, had to be tied\\nup entirely. The mistake I made was that I did\\nnot chain him to the mast instead of tying him\\nwith grass ropes less securely, and this I learned\\nto my cost. Except for the first day, before the\\nbeast got his sea-legs on, I had no peace of mind.\\nAfter that, actuated by a spirit born, maybe, of his\\npasturage, this incarnation of evil threatened to\\ndevour everything from flying- jib to stern-davits.\\nHe was the worst pirate I met on the whole voy-\\nage. He began depredations by eating my chart\\nof the West Indies, in the cabin, one day, while I\\nwas about my work for ard, thinking that the\\ncritter was securely tied on deck by the pumps.\\nAlas there was not a rope in the sloop proof\\nagainst that goat s awful teeth\\nIt was clear from the very first that I was hav-\\ning no luck with animals on board. There was\\nthe tree-crab from the Keeling Islands. No sooner", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "256 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nhad it got a claw through its prison-box than my\\nsea- jacket, hanging within reach, was torn to rib-\\nbons. Encouraged by this success, it smashed the\\nbox open and escaped into my cabin, tearing up\\nthings generally, and finally threateniog my life in\\nthe dark. I had hoped to bring the creature home\\nalive, but this did not prove feasible. Next the\\ngoat devoured my straw hat, and so when I ar-\\nrived in port I had nothing to wear ashore on my\\nhead. This last unkind stroke decided his fate.\\nOn the 27th of April the Spray arrived at Ascen-\\nsion, which is garrisoned by a man-of-war crew,\\nand the boatswain of the island came on board.\\nAs he stepped out of his boat the mutinous goat\\nclimbed into it, and defied boatswain and crew. I\\nhired them to land the wretch at once, which they\\nwere only too willing to do, and there he fell into\\nthe hands of a most excellent Scotchman, with the\\nchances that he would never get away. I was des-\\ntined to sail once more into the depths of solitude,\\nbut these experiences had no bad effect upon me\\non the contrary, a spirit of charity and even be-\\nnevolence grew stronger in my nature through the\\nmeditations of these supreme hours on the sea.\\nIn the loneliness of the dreary country about\\nCape Horn I found myself in no mood to make one\\nlife .less in the world, except in self-defense, and as\\nI sailed this trait of the hermit character grew till\\nthe mention of killing food-animals was revolting\\nto me. However well I may have enjoyed a chicken\\nstew afterward at Samoa, a new self rebelled at the\\nthought suggested there of carrying chickens to be\\nslain for my table on the voyage, and Mrs. Steven-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "A PREJUDICE AGAINST SMALL DOGS 257\\nson, hearing my protest, agreed with me that to kill\\nthe companions of my voyage and eat them would\\nbe indeed next to murder and cannibalism.\\nAs to pet animals, there was no room for a noble\\nlarge dog on the Spray on so long a voyage, and a\\nsmall cur was for many years associated in my\\nmind with hydrophobia. I witnessed once the\\ndeath of a sterling young Grerman from that dread-\\nful disease, and about the same time heard of the\\ndeath, also by hydrophobia, of the young gentleman\\nwho had just written a line of insurance in his\\ncompany s books for me. I have seen the whole\\ncrew of a ship scamper up the rigging to avoid a\\ndog racing about the decks in a fit. It would\\nnever do, I thought, for the crew of the Spray to\\ntake a canine risk, and with these just prejudices\\nindelibly stamped on my mind, I have, I am afraid,\\nanswered impatiently too often the query, Did n t\\nyou have a dog with, I and the dog would n t\\nhave been very long in the same boat, in any sense.\\nA cat would have been a harmless animal, I dare\\nsay, but there was nothing for puss to do on board,\\nand she is an unsociable animal at best. True, a\\nrat got into my vessel at the Keeling Cocos\\nIslands, and another at Rodriguez, along with a\\ncentiped stowed away in the hold but one of them\\nI drove out of the ship, and the other I caught.\\nThis is how it was for the first one with infinite\\npains I made a trap, looking to its capture and de-\\nstruction but the wily rodent, not to be deluded,\\ntook the hint and got ashore the day the thing was\\ncompleted.\\nIt is, according to tradition, a most reassuring\\n17", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "258 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nsign to find rats coming to a ship, and I had a\\nmind to abide the knowing one of Rodriguez; but\\na breach of discipline decided the matter against\\nhim. While I slept one night, my ship sailing on,\\nhe undertook to walk over me, beginning at the\\ncrown of my head, concerning which I am always\\nsensitive. I sleep lightly. Before his impertinence\\nhad got him even to my nose I cried Rat had\\nhim by the tail, and threw him out of the compan-\\nionway into the sea.\\nAs for the centiped, I was not aware of its pres-\\nence till the wretched insect, all feet and venom,\\nbeginning, like the rat, at my head, wakened me by\\na sharp bite on the scalp. This also was more\\nthan I could tolerate. After a few applications of\\nkerosene the poisonous bite, painful at first, gave\\nme no further inconvenience.\\nFrom this on for a time no living thing dis-\\nturbed my solitude no insect even was present in\\nmy vessel, except the spider and his wife, from\\nBoston, now with a family of young spiders. No-\\nthing, I say, till sailing down the last stretch of the\\nIndian Ocean, where mosquitos came by hundreds\\nfrom rain-water poured out of the heavens. Sim-\\nply a barrel of rain-water stood on deck five days,\\nI think, in the sun, then music began. I knew the\\nsound at once; it was the same as heard from\\nAlaska to New Orleans.\\nAgain at Cape Town, while dining out one day,\\nI was taken with the song of a cricket, and Mr.\\nBranscombe, my host, volunteered to capture a\\npair of them for me. They were sent on board\\nnext day in a box labeled, Pluto and Scamp.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "THE CANNIBAL CEICKET 259\\nStowing them away in the binnacle in their own\\nsnng box, I left them there without food till I got\\nto sea a few days. I had never heard of a cricket\\neating anything. It seems that Pluto was a can-\\nnibal, for only the wings of poor Scamp were visi-\\nble when I opened the lid, and they lay broken on\\nthe floor of the prison-box. Even with Pluto it\\nhad gone hard, for he lay on his back stark and\\nstiff, never to chirrup again.\\nAscension Island, where the goat was marooned,\\nis called the Stone Frigate, R. N., and is rated\\ntender to the South African -Squadron. It lies\\nin 7\u00c2\u00b0 55 south latitude and 14\u00c2\u00b0 25 west longitude,\\nbeing in the very heart of the southeast trade-\\nwinds and about eight hundred and forty miles\\nfrom the coast of Liberia. It is a mass of volcanic\\nmatter, thrown up from the bed of the ocean to the\\nheight of two thousand eight hundred and eighteen\\nfeet at the highest point above sea-level. It is a\\nstrategic point, and belonged to Great Britain be-\\nfore it got cold. In the limited but rich soil at the\\ntop of the island, among the clouds, vegetation has\\ntaken root, and a little scientific farming is carried\\non under the supervision of a gentleman from\\nCanada. Also a few cattle and sheep are pastured\\nthere for the garrison mess. Water storage is\\nmade on a large scale. In a word, this heap of\\ncinders and lava rock is stored and fortified, and\\nwould stand a siege.\\nVery soon after the Spray arrived I received a note\\nfrom Captain Blaxland, the commander of the island,\\nconveying his thanks for the royal mail brought\\nfrom St. Helena, and inviting me to luncheon with", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "260 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nhim and his wife and sister at headquarters, not\\nfar away. It is hardly necessary to say that I\\navailed myself of the captain s hospitality at once.\\nA carriage was waiting at the jetty when I landed,\\nand a sailor, with a broad grin, led the horse care-\\nfully up the hill to the captain s house, as if I were\\na lord of the admiralty, and a governor besides;\\nand he led it as carefully down again when I re-\\nturned. On the following day I visited the summit\\namong the clouds, the same team being provided,\\nand the same old sailor leading the horse. There\\nwas probably not a man on the island at that mo-\\nment better able to walk than I. The sailor knew\\nthat. I finally suggested that we change places.\\nLet me take the bridle, I said, and keep the\\nhorse from bolting. Great Stone Frigate! he\\nexclaimed, as he burst into a laugh, this ere oss\\nwould n t bolt no faster nor a turtle. If I did n t\\ntow im ard we d never get into port. I walked\\nmost of the way over the steep grades, whereupon\\nmy guide, every inch a sailor, became my friend.\\nArriving at the summit of the island, I met Mr.\\nSchank, the farmer from Canada, and his sister,\\nliving very cozily in a house among the rocks, as\\nsnug as conies, and as safe. He showed me over\\nthe farm, taking me through a tunnel which led\\nfrom one field to the other, divided by an inacces-\\nsible spur of mountain. Mr. Schank said that he\\nhad lost many cows and bullocks, as well as sheep,\\nfrom breakneck over the steep cliffs and precipices.\\nOne cow, he said, would sometimes hook another\\nright over a precipice to destruction, and go on\\nfeeding unconcernedly. It seemed that the ani-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "ASCENSION ISLAND 261\\ninals on the island farm, like mankind in the wide\\nworld, found it all too small.\\nOn the 26th of April, while I was ashore, rollers\\ncame in which rendered launching a boat impossi-\\nble. However, the sloop being securely moored to\\na buoy in deep water outside of all breakers, she\\nwas safe, while I, in the best of quarters, listened\\nto well-told stories among the officers of the Stone\\nFrigate. On the evening of the 29th, the sea hav-\\ning gone down, I went on board and made prepara-\\ntions to start again on my voyage early next day,\\nthe boatswain of the island and his crew giving me\\na hearty handshake as I embarked at the jetty.\\nFor reasons of scientific interest, I invited in\\nmid-ocean the most thorough investigation con-\\ncerning the crew-list of the Spray. Very few had\\nchallenged it, and perhaps few ever will do so\\nhenceforth but for the benefit of the few that may,\\nI wished to clench beyond doubt the fact that it\\nwas not at all necessary in the expedition of a\\nsloop around the world to have more than one man\\nfor the crew, all told, and that the Spray sailed\\nwith only one person on board. And so, by ap-\\npointment. Lieutenant Eagles, the executive officer,\\nin the morning, just as I was ready to sail, fumi-\\ngated the sloop, rendering it impossible for a person\\nto live concealed below, and proving that only one\\nperson was on board when she arrived. A certifi-\\ncate to this effect, besides the official documents\\nfrom the many consulates, health offices, and custom-\\nhouses, will seem to many superfluous; but this\\nstory of the voyage may find its way into hands\\nunfamiliar with the business of these offices and of", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "262 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ntheir ways of seeing that a vessel s papers, and,\\nabove all, her bills of health, are in order.\\nThe lieutenant s certificate being made out, the\\nSpray, nothing loath, now filled away clear of\\nthe sea-beaten rocks, and the trade-winds, com-\\nfortably cool and bracing, sent her flying along\\non her course. On May 8, 1898, she crossed the\\ntrack, homeward bound, that she had made October\\n2, 1895, on the voyage out. She passed Fernando\\nde Noronha at night, going some miles south of it,\\nand so I did not see the island. I felt a content-\\nment in knowing that the Spray had encircled the\\nglobe, and even as an adventure alone I was in no\\nway discouraged as to its utility, and said to my-\\nself, Let what will happen, the voyage is now on\\nrecord. A period was made.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XX\\n[n the favoring current off Cape St. Roque, Brazil All at sea re-\\ngarding the Spanish- American war An exchange of signals\\nwith the battle-ship Oregon\u00e2\u0080\u0094 O^ Dreyfus s prison on Devil s\\nIsland Reappearance to the Spray of the north star The light\\non Trinidad A charming introduction to Grenada Talks to\\nfriendly auditors.\\nON May 10 there was a great change in th\u00c2\u00ab con-\\ndition of the sea there could be no doubt of\\nmy longitude now, if any had before existed in my\\nmind. Strange and long-forgotten current ripples\\npattered against the sloop s sides in grateful music;\\nthe tune arrested the car, and I sat quietly listen-\\ning to it while the Spray kept on her course. By\\nthese current ripples I was assured that she was\\nnow off St. Roque and had struck the current which\\nsweeps around that cape. The trade-winds, we old\\nsailors say, produce this current, which, in its course\\nfrom this point forward, is governed by the coast-\\nline of Brazil, Guiana, Venezuela, and, as some\\nwould say, by the Monroe Doctrine.\\nThe trades had been blowing fresh for some time,\\nand the current, now at its height, amounted to\\nforty miles a day. This, added to the sloop s run\\nby the log, made the handsome day s work of one\\nhundred and eighty miles on several consecutive\\ndays. I saw nothing of the coast of Brazil, though\\n263", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "264 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nI was not many leagues off and was always in the\\nBrazil current.\\nI did not know that war with Spain had been\\ndeclared, and that I might be liable, right there, to\\nmeet the enemy and be captured. Many had told\\nme at Cape Town that, in their opinion, war was\\ninevitable, and they said The Spaniard will get\\nyou The Spaniard will get you To all this I\\ncould only say that, even so, he would not get\\nmuch. Even in the fever-heat over the disaster\\nto the Maine I did not think there would be war\\nbut I am no politician. Indeed, I had hardly\\ngiven the matter a serious thought when, on the\\n14th of May, just north of the equator, and near\\nthe longitude of the river Amazon, I saw first a\\nmast, with the Stars and Stripes floating from it,\\nrising astern as if poked up out of the sea, and then\\nrapidly appearing on the horizon, like a citadel, the\\nOregon! As she came near I saw that the great\\nship was flying the signals C B T, which read,\\nAre there any men-of-war about Eight under\\nthese flags, and larger than the Spray^s mainsail,\\nso it appeared, was the yellowest Spanish flag I\\never saw. It gave me nightmare some time after\\nwhen I reflected on it in my dreams.\\nI did not make out the Oregon^s signals till she\\npassed ahead, where I could read them better, for\\nshe was two miles away, and I had no binoculars.\\nWhen I had read her flags I hoisted the signal No,\\nfor I had not seen any Spanish men-of-war I had\\nnot been looking for any. My final signal, Let\\nus keep together for mutual protection, Captain\\nClark did not seem to regard as necessary. Per-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "266 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nhaps my small flags were not made out anyhow,\\nthe Oregon steamed on with a rush, looking for\\nSpanish men-of-war, as I learned afterward. The\\nOregorCs great flag was dipped beautifully three\\ntimes to the Spray s lowered flag as she passed on.\\nBoth had crossed the line only a few hours before.\\nI pondered long that night over the probability of\\na war risk now coming upon the Spray after she\\nhad cleared all, or nearly all, the dangers of the sea,\\nbut finally a strong hope mastered my fears.\\nOn the 17th of May, the Spray, coming out of a\\nstorm at daylight, made Devil s Island, two points\\non the lee bow, not far off. The wind was still\\nblowing a stiff breeze on shore. I could clearly see\\nthe dark-gray buildings on the island as the sloop\\nbrought it abeam. No flag or sign of life was seen\\non the dreary place.\\nLater in the day a French bark on the port tack,\\nmaking for Cayenne, hove in sight, close-hauled\\non the wind. She was falling to leeward fast.\\nThe Spray was also closed-hauled, and was lugging\\non sail to secure an ofi ng on the starboard tack, a\\nheavy swell in the night having thrown her too\\nnear the shore, and now I considered the matter of\\nsupplicating a change of wind. I had already en-\\njoyed my share of favoring breezes over the great\\noceans, and I asked myself if it would be right to\\nhave the wind turned now all into my sails while\\nthe Frenchman was bound the other way. A head\\ncurrent, which he stemmed, together with a scant\\nwind, was bad enough for him. And so I could\\nonly say, in my heart, Lord, let matters stand as\\nthey are, but do not help the Frenchman any more", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "EEAPPEAEANCE OF THE NORTH STAR 267\\njust now, for what would suit him well would ruin\\nme!\\nI remembered that when a lad I heard a captain\\noften say in meeting that in answer to a prayer of\\nhis own the wind changed from southeast to north-\\nwest, entirely to his satisfaction. He was a good\\nman, but did this glorify the Architect the Ruler\\nof the winds and the waves Moreover, it was not\\na trade-wind, as I remember it, that changed for\\nhim, but one of the variables which will change\\nwhen you ask it, if you ask long enough. Again,\\nthis man s brother maybe was not bound the op-\\nposite way, well content with a fair wind himself,\\nwhich made all the difference in the world.^\\nOn May 18, 1898, is written large in the Spray^s\\nlog-book To-night, in latitude 7\u00c2\u00b0 13 N., for the\\nfirst time in nearly three years I see the north star.\\nThe Spray on the day following logged one hun-\\ndred and forty-seven miles. To this I add thirty-\\nfive miles for current sweeping her onward. On\\nthe 20th of May, about sunset, the island of To-\\nbago, off the Orinoco, came into view, bearing west\\nby north, distant twenty-two miles. The Spray\\nwas drawing rapidly toward her home destination.\\nLater at night, while running free along the coast\\nof Tobago, the wind still blowing fresh, I was star-\\ntled by the sudden flash of breakers on the port\\nbow and not far off. I luffed instantly offshore,\\nand then tacked, heading in for the island. Find-\\n1 The Bishop of Melbourne (commend me to his teachings) refused to set\\naside a day of prayer for rain, recommending his people to husband water\\nwhen the rainy season was on. In like manner, a navigator husbands the\\nwind, keeping a weather-gage where practicable.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "268 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\ning myself, shortly after, close in with the land, I\\ntacked again offshore, but without much altering\\nthe bearings of the danger. Sail whichever way I\\nwould, it seemed clear that if the sloop weathered\\nthe rocks at all it would be a close shave, and I\\nwatched with anxiety, while beating against the\\ncurrent, always losing ground. So the matter stood\\nhour after hour, while I watched the flashes of light\\nthrown up as regularly as the beats of the long\\nocean swells, and always they seemed just a little\\nnearer. It was evidently a coral reef, of this I\\nhad not the slightest doubt, and a bad reef at\\nthat. Worse still, there might be other reefs ahead\\nforming a bight into which the current would\\nsweep me, and where I should be hemmed in and\\nfinally wrecked. I had not sailed these waters since\\na lad, and lamented the day I had allowed on\\nboard the goat that ate my chart. I taxed my\\nmemory of sea lore, of wrecks on sunken reefs, and\\nof pirates harbored among coral reefs where other\\nships might not come, but nothing that I could\\nthink of applied to the island of Tobago, save the\\none wreck of Robinson Crusoe s ship in the fiction,\\nand that gave me little information about reefs.\\nI remembered only that in Crusoe s case he kept\\nhis powder dry. But there she booms again, I\\ncried, and how close the flash is now! Almost\\naboard was that last breaker But you 11 go by,\\nSpray, old girl! T is abeam now! One surge\\nmore and oh, one more like that will clear your\\nribs and keel And I slapped her on the tran-\\nsom, proud of her last noble effort to leap clear\\nof the danger, when a wave greater than the rest", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "THE LIGHT ON TRINIDAD 269\\nthrew her higher than before, and, behold, from\\nthe crest of it was revealed at once all there was of\\nthe reef. I fell back in a coil of rope, speechless\\nand amazed, not distressed, but rejoiced. Alad-\\ndin s lamp My fisherman s own lantern It was\\nthe great revolving light on the island of Trinidad,\\nthirty miles away, throwing flashes over the waves,\\nwhich had deceived me The orb of the light was\\nnow dipping on the horizon, and how glorious was\\nthe sight of it! But, dear Father Neptune, as I\\nlive, after a long life at sea, and much among\\ncorals, I would have made a solemn declaration to\\nthat reef Through all the rest of the night I saw\\nimaginary reefs, and not knowing what moment\\nthe sloop might fetch up on a real one, I tacked off\\nand on till daylight, as nearly as possible in the\\nsame track, all for the want of a chart. I could\\nhave nailed the St. Helena goat s pelt to the deck.\\nMy course was now for Grrenada, to which I car-\\nried letters from Mauritius. About midnight of\\nthe 22d of May I arrived at the island, and cast\\nanchor in the roads off the town of St. George,\\nentering the inner harbor at daylight on the morn-\\ning of the 23d, which made forty-two days sailing\\nfrom the Cape of Good Hope. It was a good run,\\nand I doffed my cap again to the pilot of the Pinta.\\nLady Bruce, in a note to the Spray at Port Louis,\\nsaid Grenada was a lovely island, and she wished\\nthe sloop might call there on the voyage home.\\nWhen the Spray arrived, I found that she had\\nbeen fully expected. How so I asked. Oh,\\nwe heard that yon were at Mauritius, they said,\\nand from Mauritius, after meeting Sir Charles", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "270 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\nBruce, our old governor, we knew you would come to\\nGrenada. This was a charming introduction, and it\\nbrought me in contact with people worth knowing.\\nThe Spray sailed from Grenada on the 28th of\\nMay, and coasted along under the lee of the An-\\ntilles, arriving at the island of Dominica on the\\n30th, where, for the want of knowing better, I cast\\nanchor at the quarantine ground; for I was still\\nwithout a chart of the islands, not having been able\\nto get one even at Grenada. Here I not only met\\nwith further disappointment in the matter, but was\\nthreatened with a fine for the mistake I made in\\nthe anchorage. There were no ships either at the\\nquarantine or at the commercial roads, and I could\\nnot see that it made much difference where I an-\\nchored. But a negro chap, a sort of deputy harbor-\\nmaster, coming along, thought it did, and he\\nordered me to shift to the other anchorage, which,\\nin truth, I had already investigated and did not\\nlike, because of the heavier roll there from the sea.\\nAnd so instead of springing to the sails at once to\\nshift, I said I would leave outright as soon as I\\ncould procure a chart, which I begged he would\\nsend and get for me. But I say you mus move\\nbef o you gets anyt ing t all, he insisted, and raising\\nhis voice so that all the people alongshore could hear\\nhim, he added, An jes now! Then he flew into\\na towering passion when they on shore snickered\\nto see the crew of the Spray sitting calmly by\\nthe bulwark instead of hoisting sail. I tell you\\ndis am quarantine, he shouted, very much louder\\nthan before. That s all right, general, I replied\\nI want to be quarantined anyhow. That s", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "TAI.KS TO FRIENDLY AUDITOES 271\\nright, boss, some one on the beach cried, that s\\nright you get quarantined, while others shouted\\nto the deputy to make de white trash move long\\nout o dat. They were about equally divided on\\nthe island for and against me. The man who had\\nmade so much fuss over the matter gave it up\\nwhen he found that I wished to be quarantined,\\nand sent for an all-important half -white, who soon\\ncame alongside, starched from clue to earing. He\\nstood in the boat as straight up and down as a\\nfathom of pump-water a marvel of importance.\\nCharts! cried I, as soon as his shirt-collar\\nappeared over the sloop s rail; have you any\\ncharts No, sah, he replied with much-stiffened\\ndignity no, sah cha ts do s n t grow on dis isl-\\nand. Not doubting the information, I tripped an-\\nchor immediately, as I had intended to do from the\\nfirst, and made all sail for St. John, Antigua, where\\nI arrived on the 1st of June, having sailed with\\ngreat caution in midchannel all the way.\\nThe Spray, always in good company, now fell in\\nwith the port officers steam-launch at the harbor\\nentrance, having on board Sir Francis Fleming,\\ngovernor of the Leeward Islands, who, to the\\ndelight of all hands, gave the officer in charge\\ninstructions to tow my ship into port. On the fol-\\nlowing day his Excellency and La,dy Fleming,\\nalong with Captain Burr, R. N., paid me a visit.\\nThe court-house was tendered free to me at An-\\ntigua, as was done also at Grrenada, and at each\\nplace a highly intelligent audience filled the hall\\nto listen to a talk about the seas the Spray had\\ncrossed, and the countries she had visited.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXI\\nClearing for home In the calm helt A sea covered with sargasso\\nThe jihstay parts in a gale Welcomed by a tornado off Fire\\nIsland A change of plan Arrival at Newport End of a cruise\\nof over forty-six thousand miles The Spray again at Fairhaven.\\nON the 4th of June, 1898, the Spray cleared from\\nthe United States consulate, and her license to\\nsail single-handed, even round the world, was re-\\nturned to her for the last time. The United States\\nconsul, Mr. Hunt, before handing the paper to me,\\nwrote on it, as G-eneral Roberts had done at Cape\\nTown, a short commentary on the voyage. The\\ndocument, by regular course, is now lodged in\\nthe Treasury Department at Washington, D. C.\\nOn June 5, 1898, the Spray sailed for a home\\nport, heading first direct for Cape Hatteras. On\\nthe 8th of June she passed under the sun from\\nsouth to north the sun s declination on that day\\nwas 22\u00c2\u00b0 54 and the latitude of the Sprai/ was the\\nsame just before noon. Many think it is exces-\\nsively hot right under the sun. It is not neces-\\nsarily so. As a matter of fact the thermometer\\nstands at a bearable point whenever there is a\\nbreeze and a ripple on the sea, even exactly under\\nthe sun. It is often hotter in cities and on sandy\\nshores in higher latitudes.\\n272", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "IN THE CALM BELT 273\\nThe Spray was booming joyously along for home\\nnow, making her usual good time, when of a sud-\\nden she struck the horse latitudes, and her sail\\nflapped limp in a calm. I had almost forgotten\\nthis calm belt, or had come to regard it as a myth.\\nI now found it real, however, and difficult to cross.\\nThis was as it should have been, for, after all of\\nthe dangers of the sea, the dust-storm on the coast\\nof Africa, the rain of blood in Australia, and\\nthe war risk when nearing home, a natural expe-\\nrience would have been missing had the calm of\\nthe horse latitudes been left out. Anyhow, a philo-\\nsophical turn of thought now was not amiss, else\\none s patience would have given out almost at the\\nharbor entrance. The term of her probation was\\neight days. Evening after evening during this\\ntime I read by the light of a candle on deck. There\\nwas no wind at all, and the sea became smooth and\\nmonotonous. For three days I saw a full-rigged\\nship on the horizon, also becalmed.\\nSargasso, scattered over the sea in bunches, or\\ntrailed curiously along down the wind in narrow\\nlanes, now gathered together in great fields, strange\\nsea-animals, little and big, swimming in and out,\\nthe most curious among them being a tiny sea-\\nhorse which I captured and brought home preserved\\nin a bottle. But on the 18th of June a gale began\\nto blow from the southwest, and the sargasso was\\ndispersed again in windrows and lanes.\\nOn this day there was soon wind enough and to\\nspare. The same might have been said of the sea\\nThe Spray was in the midst of the turbulent Gulf\\nStream itself. She was jumping like a porpoise\\n18", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "274 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nover the uneasy waves. As if to make up for lost\\ntime, she seemed to touch only the high places.\\nUnder a sudden shock and strain her rigging began\\nto give out. First the main-sheet strap was carried\\naway, and then the peak halyard-block broke from\\nthe gaff. It was time to reef and refit, and so when\\nall hands came on deck I went about doing that.\\nThe 19th of June was fine, but on the morning\\nof the 20th another gale was blowing, accompanied\\nby cross-seas that tumbled about and shook things\\nup with great confusion. Just as I was thinking\\nabout taking in sail the jibstay broke at the mast-\\nhead, and fell, jib and all, into the sea. It gave me\\nthe strangest sensation to see the bellying sail faU,\\nand where it had been suddenly to see only space.\\nHowever, I was at the bows, with presence of mind\\nto gather it in on the first wave that rolled up, be-\\nfore it was torn or trailed under the sloop s bottom.\\nI found by the amount of work done in three min-\\nutes or less time that I had by no means grown\\nstiff-jointed on the voyage anyhow, scurvy had\\nnot set in, and being now within a few degrees\\nof home, I might complete the voyage, I thought,\\nwithout the aid of a doctor. Yes, my health was\\nstill good, and I could skip about the decks in a\\nlively manner, but could I climb The great King\\nNeptune tested me severely at this time, for the\\nstay being gone, the mast itseK switched about like\\na reed, and was not easy to climb but a gun-tackle\\npurchase was got up, and the stay set taut from\\nthe masthead, for I had spare blocks and rope on\\nboard with which to rig it, and the jib, with a reef\\nin it, was soon pulling again like a sodger for", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "A TORNADO OFF FIRE ISLAND 275\\nhome. Had the Spray^s mast not been well\\nstepped, however, it would have been John\\nWalker when the stay broke. Grood work in\\nthe building of my vessel stood me always in\\ngood stead.\\nOn the 23d of June I was at last tired, tired, tired\\nof baffling squalls and fretful cobble-seas. I had not\\nseen a vessel for days and days, where I had expected\\nthe company of at least a schooner now and then.\\nAs to the whistling of the wind through the rig-\\nging, and the slopping of the sea against the sloop s\\nsides, that was well enough in its way, and we\\ncould not have got on without it, the Spray and I\\nbut there was so much of it now, and it lasted so\\nlong At noon of that day a winterish storm was\\nupon us from the nor west. In the Gulf Stream,\\nthus late in June, hailstones were pelting the Spray,\\nand lightning was pouring down from the clouds,\\nnot in flashes alone, but in almost continuous\\nstreams. By slants, however, day and night I\\nworked the sloop in toward the coast, where, on the\\n25th of June, off Fire Island, she fell into the tor-\\nnado which, an hour earlier, had swept over New\\nYork city with lightning that wrecked buildings\\nand sent trees flying about in splinters even ships\\nat docks had parted their moorings and smashed\\ninto other ships, doing great damage. It was the\\nclimax storm of the voyage, but I saw the unmis-\\ntakable character of it in time to have all snug\\naboard and receive it under bare poles. Even so,\\nthe sloop shivered when it struck her, and she\\nheeled over unwillingly on her beam ends; but\\nrounding to, with a sea-anchor ahead, she righted", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "276 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WORLD\\nand faced out the storm. In the midst of the gale\\nI could do no more than look on, for what is a man\\nin a storm like this I had seen one electric storm\\non the voyage, off the coast of Madagascar, but it\\nwas unlike this one. Here the lightning kept on\\nlonger, and thunderbolts fell in the sea all about.\\nUp to this time I was bound for New York but\\nwhen all was over I rose, made sail, and hove the\\nsloop round from starboard to port tack, to make\\nfor a quiet harbor to think the matter over and\\nso, under short sail, she reached in for the coast of\\nLong Island, while I sat thinking and watching\\nthe lights of coasting-vessels which now began to\\nappear in sight. Reflections of the voyage so\\nnearly finished stole in upon me now many tunes\\nI had hummed again and again came back once\\nmore. I found myself repeating fragments of a\\nhymn often sung by a dear Christian woman of\\nFairhaven when I was rebuilding the Spray. I was\\nto hear once more and only once, in profound so-\\nlemnity, the metaphorical hymn\\nBy waves and wind I m tossed and driven.\\nAnd again\\nO^\\nBut still my little sMp outbraves\\nThe blust ring winds and stormy waves.\\nAfter this storm I saw the pilot of the Pinta no\\nmore.\\nThe experiences of the voyage of the Spray^\\nreaching over three years, had been to me like\\nreading a book, and one that was more and more", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "AEEIVAL AT NEWPOET 277\\ninteresting as I turned tlie pages, till I had come\\nnow to the last page of all, and the one more inter-\\nesting than any of the rest.\\nWhen daylight came I saw that the sea had\\nchanged color from dark green to light. I threw\\nthe lead and got soundings in thirteen fathoms. I\\nmade the land soon after, some miles east of Fire\\nIsland, and sailing thence before a pleasant breeze\\nalong the coast, made for Newport. The weather\\nafter the furious gale was remarkably fine. The\\nSpray rounded Montauk Point early in the after-\\nnoon Point Judith was abeam at dark she fetched\\nin at Beavertail next. Sailing on, she had one\\nmore danger to pass Newport harbor was mined.\\nThe Spray hugged the rocks along where neither\\nfriend nor foe could come if drawing much water,\\nand where she would not disturb the guard-ship in\\nthe channel. It was close work, but it was safe\\nenough so long as she hugged the rocks close, and\\nnot the mines. Flitting by a low point abreast of\\nthe guard-ship, the dear old Dexter, which I knew\\nwell, some one on board of her sang out, There\\ngoes a craft I threw up a light at once and\\nheard the hail, Spray, ahoy! It was the voice\\nof a friend, and I knew that a friend would not fire\\non the Spray. I eased off the main-sheet now, and\\nthe Spray swung off for the beacon-lights of the\\ninner harbor. At last she reached port in safety,\\nand there at 1 a. m. on June 27, 1898, cast anchor,\\nafter the cruise of more than forty-six thousand\\nmiles round the world, during an alDsence of three\\nyears and two months, with two days over for\\ncoming up.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "278 SAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\nWas the crew well Was I not I had profited\\nin many ways by the voyage. I had even gained\\nflesh, and actually weighed a pound more than\\nwhen I sailed from Boston. As for aging, why, the\\ndial of my life was turned back till my friends all\\nsaid, Slocum is young again. And so I was, at\\nleast ten years younger than the day I felled the\\nfirst tree for the construction of the Spray.\\nMy ship was also in better condition than when\\nshe sailed from Boston on her long voyage. She\\nwas still as sound as a nut, and as tight as the\\nbest ship afloat. She did not leak a drop not\\none drop The pump, which had been little used\\nbefore reaching Australia, had not been rigged\\nsince that at all.\\nThe flrst name on the Spray^s visitors book in\\nthe home port was written by the one who always\\nsaid, The Spray will come back. The Spray was\\nnot quite satisfied till I sailed her around to her\\nbirthplace, Fairhaven, Massachusetts, farther along.\\nI had myself a desire to return to the place of the\\nvery beginning whence I had, as I have said, re-\\nnewed my age. So on July 3, with a fair wind, she\\nwaltzed beautifully round the coast and up the\\nAcushnet River to Fairhaven, where I secured her\\nto the cedar spile driven in the bank to hold her\\nwhen she was launched. I could bring her no\\nnearer home.\\nIf the Spray discovered no continents on her\\nvoyage, it may be that there were no more con-\\ntinents to be discovered; she did not seek new\\nworlds, or sail to powwow about the dangers of\\nthe seas. The sea has been much maligned. To", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "I f it\\nAgain tied to the old stake at Fairhaven.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "280 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WOELD\\nfind one s way to lands already discovered is a\\ngood tiling, and the Siway made the discovery that\\neven the vrorst sea is not so terrible to a well-\\napi^ointed ship. Ko king, no country, no treasuiy\\nat all, was taxed for the voyage of the Spray, and\\nshe accomplished all that she undertook to do.\\nTo succeed, however, in anything at all, one\\nshould go understandingly about his work and be\\nprepared for every emergency. I see, as I look\\nback over my own small achievement, a kit of not\\ntoo elaborate carpenters tools, a tin clock, and\\nsome carpet-tacks, not a great many, to facilitate\\nthe enterprise as already mentioned in the story.\\nBut above all to be taken into account were some\\nyears of schooling, where I studied with diligence\\nNeptune s laws, and these laws I tried to obey\\nwhen I sailed overseas it was worth the while.\\nAnd now, without having wearied my friends, I\\nhope, with detailed scientific accounts, theories, or\\ndeductions, I will only say that I have endeavored\\nto tell just the story of the adventure itself. This,\\nin my own poor way, having been done, I now\\nmoor ship, weather-bitt cables, and leave the sloop\\nSpray^ for the present, safe in port.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX\\nLINES AND SAIL-PLAN OF THE sPKAY\\nHer pedigree so far as known The Lines of tlie Spray Her\\nself -steering qualities Sail-plan and steering-gear An un-\\nprecedented feat A final word of cheer to would-be navigators\\nFEOM a feeling of diffidence toward sailors of\\ngreat experience, I refrained, in the preceding\\nchapters as prepared for serial publication in the\\nCentury Magazine, from entering fully into the\\ndetails of the Spra ifs build, and of the primitive\\nmethods employed to sail her. Having had no\\nyachting experience at all, I had no means of\\nknowing that the trim vessels seen in our harbors\\nand near the land could not all do as much, or even\\nmore, than the Spray^ sailing, for example, on a\\ncourse with the helm lashed.\\nI was aware that no other vessel had sailed in\\nthis manner around the globe, but would have been\\nloath to say that another could not do it, or that\\nmany men had not sailed vessels of a certain rig in\\nthat manner as far as they wished to go. I was\\ngreatly amused, therefore, by the flat assertions of\\nan expert that it could not be done.\\nThe Spray, as I sailed her, was entirely a new\\nboat, built over from a sloop which bore the same\\nname, and which, tradition said, had first served as\\n283", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "284\\nSAILING ALONE ABOUND THE WOELD\\nan oysterman, about a hundred years ago, on tlie\\ncoast of Delaware. There was no record in the\\ncustom-house of where she was built. She was once\\nowned at Noank, Connecticut, afterward in New\\nBedford and when Captain Eben Pierce presented\\nPlan of tlie after cabin of the Spray.\\nher to me, at the end of her natural life, she stood, as\\nI have already described, propped up in a field at\\nFairhaven. Her lines were supposed to be those\\nof a North Sea fisherman. In rebuilding timber\\nby timber and plank by plank, I added to her free-", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "THE LINES OF THE SPRAY 285\\nboard twelve inclies amidsliips, eighteen Indies for-\\nward, and fourteen inclies aft, thereby increasing\\nher sheer, and making her, as I thought, a better\\ndeep-water ship. I will not repeat the history of\\nthe rebuilding of the Spray, which I have detailed\\nin my first chapter, except to say that, when fin-\\nished, her dimensions were thirty-six feet nine\\ninches over all, fourteen feet two inches wide, and\\nfour feet two inches deep in the hold, her tonnage\\nbeing nine tons net, and twelve and seventy one-\\nhundredths tons gross.\\nI gladly produce the lines of the Sprat/, with such\\nhints as my really limited fore-and-aft sailing will\\nallow, my seafaring life having been spent mostly\\nin barks and ships. No pains have been spared to\\ngive them accurately. The Spray was taken from\\nNew York to Bridgeport, Connecticut, and, under\\nthe supervision of the Park City Yacht Club, was\\nhauled out of water and very carefully measured\\nin every way to secure a satisfactory result. Cap-\\ntain Eobins produced the model. Our young\\nyachtsmen, pleasuring in the lilies of the sea,\\nvery naturally will not think favorably of my craft.\\nThey have a right to their opinion, while I stick to\\nmine. They will take exceptions to her short ends,\\nthe advantage of these being most apparent in a\\nheavy sea.\\nSome things about the Spray^s deck might be\\nfashioned differently without materially affecting\\nthe vessel. I know of no good reason why for\\na party-boat a cabin t^runk might not be built\\namidships instead of far aft, like the one on her,\\nwhich leaves a very narrow space between the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "286 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nwheel and the line of the companionway. Some\\neven say that I might have improved the shape\\nof her stern. I do not know about that. The\\nwater leaves her run sharp after bearing her to\\nthe last inch, and no suction is formed by undue\\ncutaway.\\nSmooth- water sailors say, Where is her over-\\nhang 1 They never crossed the Gulf Stream 11\\na nor easter, and they do not know what is best\\nin all weathers. For your life, build no fantail\\noverhang on a craft going offshore. As a sailor\\njudges his prosj^ective ship by a blow of the\\neye when he takes interest enough to look her\\nover at all, so I judged the Spray, and I was not\\ndeceived.\\nIn a sloop-rig the Spray made that part of her\\nvoyage reaching from Boston through the Strait of\\nMagellan, during which she experienced the great-\\nest variety of weather conditions. The yawl-rig\\nthen adopted was an improvement only in that it\\nreduced the size of a rather heavy mainsail and\\nslightly improved her steering qualities on the\\nwind. When the wind was aft the jigger was not\\nin use; invariably it was then furled. With her\\nboom broad off and with the wind two points on\\nthe quarter the Spray sailed her truest course. It\\nnever took long to find the amount of helm, or\\nangle of rudder, required to hold her on her course,\\nand when that was found I lashed the wheel with\\nit at that angle. The mainsail then drove her,\\nand the main- jib, with its sheet boused flat amid-\\nships or a little to one side or the other, added\\ngi eatly to the steadying power. Then if the wind\\nwas even strong or squally I would sometimes set", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "HER SELF-STEERING QUALITIES\\n287\\na flying-jib also,\\non a pole rigged\\nout on the bow-\\nsprit, with the\\nsheets hauled flat\\namidships, which\\nwas a safe thing to\\ndo, even in a gale\\nof wind. A stout\\ndownhaul on the\\ngaff was a neces-\\nsity, because with-\\nout it the mainsail\\nmight not have\\ncome down when I\\nwished to lower it\\nin a breeze. The\\ng amount of helm\\nrequired varied\\naccording to the\\namount of wind\\nand its direction.\\nThese points are\\nquickly gathered\\nfrom practice.\\nBriefly I have\\nto say that when\\nclose-hauled in a\\nlight wind under\\nall sail she re-\\nquired little or\\nno weather helm.\\nAs the wind in-\\ncreased I would go\\ni?", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "SAIL-PLAN AND STEEEING-GEAE 289\\non deck, if below, and turn the wheel up a spoke\\nmore or less, relash it, or, as sailors say, put it in a\\nbeeket, and then leave it as before.\\nTo answer the questions that might be asked to\\nmeet every contingency would be a pleasure, but\\nIt would overburden my book. I can only say\\nhere that much comes to one in practice, and\\nthat, with such as love saHing, mother-wit is the\\nISteering-gear of the Spray.\\nbest teacher, after experience. Labor-saving appli-\\nances? There were none. The sails were hoisted\\nbv hand; the halyards were rove through ordinary\\nsMips blocks with common patent rollers Of\\nc^ourse the sheets were all belayed aft.\\nThe windlass used was in the shape of a winch,\\nor crab, I think it is called. I had three anchors", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "290 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\nweighing forty pounds, one hundred pounds, and\\none hundred and eighty pounds respectively. The\\nwindlass and the forty-pound anchor, and the fid-\\ndle-head, or carving, on the end of the cutwater,\\nbelonged to the original Spray. The ballast, con-\\ncrete cement, was stanchioned down securely.\\nThere was no iron or lead or other weight on the\\nkeel.\\nIf I took measurements by rule I did not set\\nthem down, and after sailing even the longest voy-\\nage in her I could not tell offhand the length of her\\nmast, boom, or gaff. I did not know the center of\\neffort in her sails, except as it hit me in practice at\\nsea, nor did I care a rope yarn about it. Mathe-\\nmatical calculations, however, are all right in a\\ngood boat, and the Spray could have stood them.\\nShe was easily balanced and easily kept in trim.\\nSome of the oldest and ablest shipmasters have\\nasked how it was possible for her to hold a true\\ncourse before the wind, which was just what the\\nSpray did for weeks together. One of these gen-\\ntlemen, a highly esteemed shipmaster and friend,\\ntestified as government expert in a famous mur-\\nder trial in Boston, not long since, that a ship\\nwould not hold her course long enough for the\\nsteersman to leave the helm to cut the captain s\\nthroat. Ordinarily it would be so. One might say\\nthat with a square-rigged ship it would always be\\nso. But the Spray at the moment of the tragedy in\\nquestion, was sailing around the globe with no on e\\nat the helm, except at intervals more or less rare.\\nHowever, I may say here that this would have had\\nno bearing on the murder case in Boston. In all", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "AN UNPEECEDENTED FEAT\\n291\\nprobability Justice laid her hand on the true rogue.\\nIn other words, in the case of a model and rig simi-\\nlar to that of the tragedy ship, I should myself\\ntestify as did the nautical experts at the trial.\\nBut see the run the Spray made from Thursday\\nIsland to the Keeling Cocos Islands, twenty-seven\\nhundred miles distant, in twenty-three days, with\\nno one at the helm in that time, save for about\\none hour, from land to land. No other ship in the\\ntttrtl\\n.^1^^\\n^L_ 7 r\\n-u V\\nAW\\n^^^^sp,,^^\\nr\\nV^^-^\\n~~~i\\ny\\ny\\ny y\\no~\\ni\\nb\\n^C^-\\nDEL\\nBody-plan of the Spray.\\nhistory of the world ever performed, under similar\\ncircumstances, the feat on so long and continuous\\na voyage. It was, however, a delightful midsum-\\nmer sail. No one can know the pleasure of sailing\\nfree over the great oceans save those who have had\\nthe experience. It is not necessary, in order to\\nrealize the utmost enjoyment of going around the\\nglobe, to sail alone, yet for once and the first time\\nthere was a great deal of fun in it. My friend the", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "292 SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD\\ngovernment expert, and saltest of salt sea-captains,\\nstanding only yesterday on the deck of the Siyray,\\nwas convinced of her famous qualities, and he\\nspoke enthusiastically of selhng his farm on Cape\\nCod and putting to sea again.\\nTo young men contemplating a voyage I would\\nsay go. The tales of rough usage are for the most\\npart exaggerations, as also are the stories of sea\\ndanger. I had a fair schooling in the so-called\\nhard ships on the hard Western Ocean, and in\\nthe years there I do not remember having once\\nbeen called out of my name. Such recollections\\nhave endeared the sea to me. I owe it further to the\\nofdcers of all the ships I ever sailed in as boy and\\nman to say that not one ever lifted so much as a\\nfinger to me. I did not live among angels, but\\namong men who could be roused. My wish was,\\nthough, to please the officers of my ship wherever I\\nwas, and so I got on. Dangers there are, to be\\nsure, on the sea as well as on the land, but the in-\\ntelligence and skill Grod gives to man reduce these to\\na minimum. And here comes in again the skilfully\\nmodeled ship worthy to sail the seas.\\nTo face the elements is, to be sure, no light mat-\\nter when the sea is in its grandest mood. You\\nmust then know the sea, and know that you know\\nit, and not forget that it was made to be sailed\\nover.\\nI have given in the plans of the Spray the di-\\nmensions of such a ship as I should call seaworthy\\nin all conditions of weather and on all seas. It i;\\nonly right to say, though, that to insure a reasona-\\nble measure of success, experience should sail witl", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "294 SAILING ALONE AEOUND THE WORLD\\nthe ship. But in order to be a successful navigator\\nor sailor it is not necessary to hang a tar-bucket\\nabout one s neck. On the other hand, much\\nthought concerning the brass buttons one should\\nwear adds nothing to the safety of the ship.\\nI ma}^ some daj^ see reason to modify the model\\nof the dear old Spray, but out of my limited expe-\\nrience I strongly recommend her wholesome lines\\nover those of pleasure-fliers for safety. Practice in\\na craft such as the Spray will teach ^ror-^- ^^s\\nand fit them for the more import; ssels. I my-\\nself learned more seamanship, I think, on the Spray\\nthan on any other ship I ever sailed, and as for\\npatience, the greatest of all the virtues, even while\\nsailing through the reaches of the Strait of Magel-\\nlan, between the bluff mainland and dismal Fuego,\\nwhere through intricate sailing I was obliged to\\nsteer, I learned to sit by the wheel, content to make\\nten miles a day beating against the tide, and when\\na month at that was all lost, I could find some old\\ntune to hum while I worked the route all over\\nagain, beating as before. Nor did thirty hours at\\nthe wheel, in storm, overtax my human endurance,\\nand to clap a hand to an oar and pull into or out of\\nport in a calm was no strange experience for the\\ncrew of the Spray. The days passed happily with\\nme wherever my ship sailed.", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": ",x^^\\n^y. C^\\n\u00c2\u00ab0N U\\nli\\no^ -v;;\\n0t\\nS\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2^o\\n0^\\nx^^\\ns: x^^^\\nV^\\n^m\\n.,x^\\nV\\n.V Oh. o \\\\V\\n^O s s V\\nvis .i\u00c2\u00abS^J^=,^\\nxx^- ^P\\nA\\n51 -V^,\\n.0-\\n-X\\n.-^x\\nif\\nN\\nc-\\n-J^\\nJ -A.--f\\nc^^\\n.0\\n-^-.^l V\\n.vX^ -^P", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2915", "width": "1669", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3160", "width": "1907", "jp2-path": "sailingalonearou00sloc_0322.jp2"}}