{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2913", "width": "2035", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "v\\n4? 5\\\\\\no\\n\u00c2\u00b0o\\no\\n.0\\nI\\n4-\\nC i-\\n.0 v\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2p.", "height": "2767", "width": "1916", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "5* A\\ncv\\nv 1\\n4*\\nO\\n^5 V\\nV*\\nv\\n.v\u00c2\u00ab*\\nV\\nb.\\no .0 V\\nj o* *b\\nV\\na/\\nf\u00c2\u00b0\\n,v v\\n,0 o\\nV", "height": "2767", "width": "1916", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2767", "width": "1916", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2751", "width": "1884", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2751", "width": "1884", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "THow to flfcake Battenberg\\nano point Xace\\nBY\\nNELLIE CLARK BROWN\\nPublished by\\nTHE PRISCILLA PUBLISHING COMPANY\\nBOSTON, MASS.", "height": "2751", "width": "1884", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "MRS 6 1l\\n5G910 8tCUNU\u00c2\u00ab-OHV.\\nCopyright, iqoo\\nBy The Priscilla Publishing Company\\nBoston, Mass.", "height": "2751", "width": "1884", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace*\\nSelection of Materials.\\njHE same rules and instruction apply-\\nto Battenberg and modern point lace.\\nThe latter, being much the finer and\\nmore delicate, requires more time and\\npatience. Both deserve equal care.\\nBraid and Thread.\\nThe pattern being chosen, select a smooth linen\\nbraid. Great care should be taken to avoid getting\\na cotton braid. The beauty and value of many a\\npiece of Battenberg lace has been lessened because\\nit was made with a cotton braid.\\nThe working thread, as well as all other parts\\nof the wtrk, should always be linen. There are\\nvarious lace threads that are jjood, and each has\\nits friends. Some of the threads that are so\\nslightly twisted as to resemble floss are good for\\nthe filling of rings, and, when a soft, indefinite\\neffect is desired, is the right thing for their cover-\\ning of buttonhole stitch or crochet. When it is\\ndesired to have each thread in the covering of the\\nring stand out distinctly, thread more tightly\\ntwisted should be used. For overcasting the braid,\\nNos. 70 or 80 may be used, while for the filling-in\\nstitches, Nos. 40 to 60 should be selected, according\\nto the degree of fineness desired in the work. The\\n-narrow braid calls for a finer thread than the\\nwider braid requires. None of the cotton threads\\nshould be used for any part of the permanent\\nwork. To avoid knots and tangles in the working-\\nthread, the needle should always be threaded from\\nthe right end of the thread, and before working\\nthe thread should be drawn through the thumb\\nand finger of the left hand to lessen its liability to\\ntwist and tangle.\\nFor needle point lace the best thread is the\\nPetit Moulin linen lace thread, manufactured\\nfor the purpose in France. This thread may be\\nhad in numbers from 30 to 1500. For the very\\nfinest lace, Nos. 1000 to 1500 should be used,\\nwhile for doilies and handkerchiefs it is advisable\\nto use a slightly heavier thread. Nos. 600 to 1000\\nare good. In making Honiton and princess lace,\\nNos. 400 to 600 are most effective. The coarser\\nthreads are excellent for Battenberg lace.\\n1\\nThis thread comes in balls, varying in size from\\nthe tiny ball of No. 1500 to the large ball of No.\\n30. Arouud the outside is pasted a ring of stiff\\npaper, which serves as a protector for the thread,\\nand keeps it free from soil. This paper should\\nnot be removed, but the thread should be used\\nfrom the centre of the ball. On one side of the\\nball is a thread passing across from the centre to\\nthe circumference. By pulling this thread an end\\nis discovered, and the ball unwinds from the in-\\nside in the fashion of most balls of thread and\\ntwine. It is advisable to put the ball into a little\\nbox, through a puncture in the lid of which the\\nthread may be drawn without risk of soil or injury.\\nThread bags of various kinds may be used instead\\nof the box.\\nRings.\\nVery excellent rings may be bought read)- for\\nuse, but many ladies prefer to make them. For\\ntheir use a very handy little ring gauge has been\\ninvented, and is shown in miniature in Fig. 1.\\nThis provides for the making of rings\\nin six different sizes, and permits of\\ntheir being made of any thickness de-\\nsired. The thread or floss is wound\\naround the chosen section of the ring\\ngauge a sufficient number of times,\\nperhaps twenty, to make the ring of\\nthe necessary thick-\\nness. The thread or\\nfloss should be loose\\nenough to allow of its\\nbeing overcast. To do\\nthis, thread a needle\\nand pass it repeatedly\\naround the roll of\\nthreads by pushing\\nthe needle between the threads and the ring gauge.\\nWhen it is closely overcast, push the thread ring\\ncarefully off the ring gauge without marring its\\ncircular shape. To do this successfully, give it a\\nseries of little pushes with the thumb around and\\naround its circumference until it slips off. It is\\nnow a ring of threads held in place by the over-\\ncasting thread which is coiled around it. It may\\nFro. l. Ring Gauge and Button-\\nholed Ring fob Battenbekg\\nand Point Lace.", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "now be finished in either one or two ways. It\\nmay be covered with a close row of buttonhole\\nstitches, and so resemble the ready-made ring, or\\nit may be covered with a close row of single\\ncrochet. The end may be fastened by passing it\\nthrough the threads of the ring. If the needle is\\nthrust through the body of the ring, and carries\\nthe thread a short distance from the finishing\\nplace, and then with another stitch returns to its\\nstarting-point, the end will be safely secured. To\\nmake the rings exactly alike, care should be taken\\nto have the thread circle the ring gauge exactly\\nthe same number of times in each. ring.\\nRings for the needle point lace should be very\\nslender and delicate. The thread should be wound\\naround the gauge from four to eight or ten times,\\nthen overcast and buttonholed. Crochet is not\\npractical for these dainty rings. When a substi-\\ntute for the ring gauge is desired, bone knitting-\\nneedles, pencils, or tiny glass bottles may be used.\\nBasting and Overcasting.\\naHE first work is basting the braid to the\\npattern. In most patterns the braid is\\nrepresented by a double line. In bast-\\ning, one edge of the braid should follow\\nthe outer line of the pattern, and the basting\\nthreads should be placed through the open edge of\\nthe braid and upon the outer line of the pattern\\ndesignating the braid. When the progress of the\\npattern changes the outer line or curve, to which\\nyou have been basting, to the inner curve, the\\nbasting thread should be carried across the braid\\nas is shown in the illustration (Fig. 2), and the\\nbasting continued along what is now the outer\\ncurve.\\nFIG. 2. METHOD OF BASTING BRAID IN BATTENBERG AND\\nPoint Lace.\\nThe basting stitches should be rather close and\\nshort, and should be drawn tightly so as to hold\\nthe braid firmly to its place. Should the basting\\nstitches be loose, the putting in of the lace stitches\\nwill inevitably draw the braid from its place on\\nthe pattern and spoil the perfection of the lines\\nand curves of the design.\\nBack stitching is neither necessary nor advis-\\nable. The forward stitches taken closely and\\nfirmly will hold the braid securely, and are easy\\nto remove. Braid that is back stitched to the pat-\\ntern makes an unnecessarily tedious task of the\\nseparating of the work from the pattern just at\\nthe time when the completion of the stitches makes\\nthe worker unusually eager to see the work com-\\npleted.\\nNever under any circumstances should any but\\na straight length of braid be basted through the\\nmiddle. Should the braid be basted through the\\nmiddle when following a curve, it is almost im-\\npossible not to draw it too tight, and as a result\\nthe outer edge will curl up and utterly spoil the\\nwork, as no amount of care in placing the stitches\\ncan make right a piece of work where the outer\\nedge of the braid around a curve rises in its might,\\nand reaches longingly towards its opposite and\\ninner edge.\\nTurning Corners.\\nGreat care should be observed in turning corners,\\nand various methods are employed for corners of\\ndifferent angles. In an obtuse corner (Fig. 3, a),\\nor one so broad and shallow as to be almost a curve,\\nit is only necessary to follow the outer curve of the\\npattern of the braid, and allow the resulting fulness\\nto remain loose until the overcasting stitches draw\\nit down into shape.\\nIn sharp or acute angles (Fig. 3, b) the braid may\\nbe basted to the extreme point of the angle, and\\nthe fulness folded over, so the fold will lie along\\nthe edge of the braid, as the basting is continued\\nalong the second side of the point.\\nIn a sharp angle the fold of the braid may also\\nbe turned under (Fig. 3, c), the fold being so regu-\\nlated that its ends reach from the exact point of\\nthe outer edge of the braid or pattern to the exact", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "point of the inner edge. This forms a niitered\\ncorner and divides the point exactly in halves.\\nStill another way (Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an\\nangle of any degree, but it cuts off the end of the\\npoint. In this method, when the point is ap-\\nproached, the braid is simply turned over upon\\nitself at the angle necessary to allow the braid\\nupon either side of the fold to follow the line of\\nthe design.\\nFig. 3. Method of Basting Battenberg and Point Lace\\nBraid on Corners and Cubves.\\nIn all cases the point of the braid should be\\nsecurely fastened to the pattern in such a way\\nthat its end will not stand out from the pattern\\nand form a hook or projection, around which the\\nworking thread will be prone to catch at the risk\\nof pricked fingers, tangled thread, and stitches\\ndragged out of shape. A stitch or two carried\\nfrom the point of the braid to the pattern beyond\\nwill hold all points securely and will repay the\\ncare expended many times. Hurried basting, with\\nloose points and corners, often results in great loss\\nof time and perfection of work.\\nScallops and Loops.\\nWhere the pattern contains a series of overlap-\\nping scallops or loops, with one width of braid\\nbetween them (Fig. 3, e), the braid should not be\\n3ut but doubled back upon itself. Baste the\\nbraid upon the outer edge of the design until it\\nreaches the braid that checks its course. Turn it\\nback upon itself so that the fold just touches the\\nother braid and may be overcast to it. Let the\\nedge of the returning braid follow the outer line\\nof the pattern of the next scallop or loop.\\nWhere the design of the pattern contains a series\\n}f scallops or loops on either side of a central fig-\\nare (Fig. 3, e) the braid may be put on with the\\nfoldings in the order in which they come, but this\\ndestroys the similarity of the two sides. A better\\nappearance is obtained by having the two siiles\\nsimilar. In tinning the braid back upon itself\\nat the end or top of the loop, it is brought\\nthe already basted braid of the preceding loop.\\nOn the opposite side it is best to turn the braid\\nunder the side of the preceding loop. This must\\nbe done before the basting of the preceding loop is\\ncompleted.\\nUpon reaching the point where the two braids\\ndiverge, the end of the braid nearest the bastings\\nis taken in the fingers of the left hand, and with\\nthe fingers of the right hand is doubled back or\\nunder that held in the left hand. Lay the doubled\\nbraid down upon the pattern, being sure that it is\\njust sufficiently long to reach the end of the loop\\nor scallop. One row of basting fastens the two\\nlayers of braid into place. It is best to cut the\\nbraid as seldom as possible, and this method of\\nturning back the braid saves many cuttings, ami\\npresents a much neater appearance than when it\\nis cut at every opportunity.\\nOvercasting\\nAfter the braid has all been carefully basted\\ninto place, the full inner edges of the curves must\\nalso be brought into place. To do this they must-\\nbe overcast with a very fine linen thread. This\\novercasting thread should pass over and over the\\nedge of the braid and into each of its marginal\\nloops. Only occasionally, on very large, slightly\\ncurved lines, may a loop be here and there omitted.\\nOn the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted\\nbars, spiders, wheels, and other similar stitches\\nwhere the working thread must pass from point\\nto point along the edge of the braid, the overcast-\\ning may be omitted, and the passage of the working\\nthread utilized to draw the braid into place as it\\nproceeds in its course of completing the stitch.\\nFamiliarity with the work will show when the\\nwork of overcasting may in this way be lessened.\\nThe overcasting thread should not be drawn tight\\nenough to draw the braid from its place on the\\npattern, but it should be tight enough to hold\\nthe inner gathered edge smoothly down to the\\npattern, where it must fit as flatly as its opposite\\nouter edge.\\nWhenever the overcasting thread reaches a place\\nwhere two edges of the braid meet or cross, the\\nneedle should be passed through both braids, either", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "ill a simple overcasting stitch or with a single\\nbuttonhole knot. When the thread passes from\\none side to the other of two braid edges the thread\\nshould connect them at both sides.\\nWhen in the course of the overcasting the curve\\nof the braid changes, and the inner curve becomes\\nthe outer one, a buttonhole stitch should be taken\\nin the edge of the braid at the point where the\\ncurve changes and the thread carefully woven\\nthrough the braid to its opposite side, where\\nanother buttonhole stitch should be taken and the\\novercasting continued.\\nCutting the Braid.\\nWhere, the ends of a braid meet at a corner, or\\nother place having no other braid to hide the junc-\\nture, fold the end of the under braid up and the\\nend of the upper braid down, and lay the one upon\\nthe other. Overcast them together at the end of\\nboth braids. The beginning of the basting of the\\nbraid to the design, as well as the joining of two\\nends, should occur at the crossing of two braids.\\nPass the second braid over the end of the first, and\\nwhen you again reach that point in the design put\\ntin- second end under the overlying braid with the\\nfirst. This makes the upper side the right side.\\nIf it is desired to have the under side of the\\nwork, or the side next the pattern, the right side,\\nthe manner of procedure should be reversed, and\\nthe two ends placed over the other braid. These\\nends should be either turned over and hemmed\\ndown neatly, or very carefully overcast to the other\\nbraid, that no ragged edges may be seen on either\\nside. The folding over of the ends makes the\\nwork a. little thicker just at that point, and is\\nmore easily noticed than the other finish, which, if\\ncarefully done, is hardly visible, and is especially\\nfitted for the finer laces.\\nBasting the Rings to the Pattern.\\nWhen basting on the rings it is well to remem-\\nber that the basting threads have to lie removed\\nlater. Only enough are needed to hold the ring\\nin place If the needle is thrust through the\\nring four times, twice downwards and twice up-\\nwards, it is sufficient. As the rings are not exactly\\nalike on both sides, it is necessary, when placing\\nthem, to be very careful to see that the same side\\nis always uppermost. Very pretty effects are\\nobtained by graduating the size of the rings in a\\nrow or series. The centre ring may be the largest*\\nand those on either side may decrease in size as\\nthey approach the end or point of the space allotted\\nto them, or a large ring may lead a row of others\\nof decreasing size.\\nWhen the pattern requires the rings to be placed\\nso close together that they touch, they should be\\nunited by threads entering each ring at one point\\nonly, and these uniting threads should not be\\ndrawn tight enough to bring the rings firmly\\ntogether, but should serve as a hinge, which, while\\nit keeps the rings together, allows them to move\\nfreely. Rings should, under no circumstances, be\\nsewed together along their circumferences, as the\\neffect is stiff and clumsy, and not at all dainty\\nand lace-like.\\nIt is best to baste the rings to the pattern only\\nas the progress of the work requires. The working\\nthread is very apt to catch between the basted\\nrings and the pattern, and so delay the work.\\nAfter the work of attaching the rings to the braid\\nwith the lace stitches has been completed, it is\\nimpossible for the thread to catch in this manner.\\nFastening the Thread.\\nKnots should never appear in any lace, and the\\nworker should aim to have both sides of the work\\nappear equally neat and perfect. When the com-\\npletion of a stitch or the limit of a thread permits\\nthe fastening to be made at the intersection of two\\nbraids, a single buttonhole knot should be made,\\nand the thread passed, by means of the needle,\\nback and forth two or three times between the\\nbraids with a tiny backstitch at each change of\\nthe direction of the thread. When a new thread\\nis to be fastened at the intersection of two braids,\\nthe needle should be passed between these two\\nbraids with the point toward the place at which\\nthe thread is to be fastened. The thread should\\nthen be carefully drawn through until the end\\njust disappears from sight between the braids. A\\nbuttonhole knot should then be made, and back of\\nit a second one to guard its predecessor.\\nWhen, in the course of the work, the end of a\\nused thread must be fastened to a single braid, it\\nmay be overcast along the edge of the braid with\\nan occasional buttonhole knot, or a single button-\\nhole knot may tie the thread to the edge of the\\nbraid, and the needle may then pass in a series\\nof tiny running stitches, with an occasional back-\\nstitch, along the body of the braid for a short", "height": "2783", "width": "1917", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "distance. The new thread should then be carried\\nby the needle in a similar manner along the braid\\nfrom the direction opposite that taken by the\\nretiring thread. At the point where the thread is\\nto be fastened, and the work continued, two button-\\nhole knots are all that is necessary.\\nIt is often well, when filling in with stitches that\\npermit, to begin the new thread on the side of the\\nspace opposite the ending of the former thread.\\nThis serves to make the place of j uncture still less\\nconspicuous.\\nAll patterns should be able to be considered as\\ncomposed of two parts design and background.\\nThe design should be prominently brought out,\\nand, to accomplish this, the network and other\\nshowy stitches should be used, keeping the spider-\\nwebs, bars, and other open stitches for the back-\\nground. It is well to put in the background.\\nstitches first, as they will hold the curves of the\\nbraid in place, and preserve the shape of the de-\\nsign until the work is finished.\\nWhen working, either side of the lace may be\\nconsidered the right side. Each has its advantages\\nand disadvantages. The aim of the worker should\\nalways be to make both sides so neatly and care-\\nfully that they are equally beautiful, and there is\\nno wrong side. Ribbed wheels and some other\\nstitches cannot so easily be worked on the wrong\\nside, and some other stitches appear better on the\\nside upon which they have been worked. Other\\nstitches appear alike on both sides. The overcast-\\ning of two braids together, and the beginning and\\nending of each thread, often appear more plainly\\nupon the upper side and mar the effect of the\\nwork, but with care that can be avoided. When\\nthe wrong side is up, care must be exercised in\\nplacing the rings, which must also be wrong side\\nup. If there is any fear of soiling the work, it is\\nalways advisable to make it wrong side up. The\\nunder side is usually smoother, but the pressing\\nof the piece when finished makes both sides equally\\nsmooth and handsome.\\nPreparing a Sampler.\\nVERY lace-maker should prepare a sam-\\npler upon which to reproduce the\\nvarious lace stitches, which may be\\nworked, cut out, and repeated until pro-\\nficiency is acquired, and this without danger of\\nsoiling or in any way spoiling the piece of work\\nin which the stitch is to be introduced. If\\nevery stitch is practised in this way the worker\\nwill in the end, besides having become very fa-\\nmiliar with the various stitches, have them illus-\\ntrated in a compact, practical form. Only those\\nworkers who have prepared them for use know the\\ncomfort and satisfaction to be had in the posses-\\nsion of a sampler.\\nTo prepare this sampler an oblong piece of cam-\\nbric or holland is required. The size of this\\ndepends upon the size of the collection of stitches\\nthe worker hopes to obtain, and a sampler is a\\ngreat incentive to new stitches. What the kodak\\nbook and the stamp album are to their devotees,\\nso is the sampler to the lace-worker. A new stitch\\nbecomes a great prize and is eagerly added to the\\ncollection. In view of this, and that there are\\nover a hundred stitches in common use, it is well\\nto make the sampler sufficiently large.\\nWhen holland the smooth, shiny holland is\\nused, no additional background is needed. When\\ncambric is used, it is necessary to line it with a sheet\\nof strong but not too stiff paper, or a light weight\\ncanvas. With narrow tape or Battenberg braid a\\npart of this sampler is checked off in one-inch\\nsquares and the remainder in oblongs one inch by\\none-half inch in size, as shown in Fig. 4. The\\nsquares are for the networks and wheels, while\\nthe oblongs are for insertions and bars. The\\nbraid presents a very neat\\nappearance, and is delight-\\nfully firm if it is first basted\\nin place and then stitched\\nthrough the centre on the\\nmachine. The last piece of\\nbraid to be attached should\\nbe the one that passes around\\nthe others like a frame and\\ncovers up the cut ends of\\nthe braid. Or a sampler\\nmay be made on an all-over\\nlace pattern; this would\\nshow the best application of the different stitches\\nto the various shaped spaces.\\nFig. 4. Diagram of Sam\\npleb for Lace Stitches", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "Lace Stitches. Bars.\\ni h J j a j a a i b t\\nFig. 5. Plain Twisted\\nBar.\\nACE stitches may be classified as bars,\\nwheels, insertions, and networks. The\\nfirst two are used in filling in the back-\\nground of designs, while the insertions\\nand networks are reserved for the filling in of\\nthe design itself.\\nSorrento Bars.\\nThe plain twisted bar, Fig. 5, also called the Sor-\\nrento bar, is the simplest of all stitches. The\\nthread is fastened securely in the proper place and\\ncarried across the space to be\\nfilled, where it is held smoothly\\nover the pattern and again\\nsecured either by passing it\\nthrough the edge of the braid\\nor fastening it with a button-\\nhole knot. The work is then\\nheld so that the first fastening\\nof the thread is away from the\\nworker and the second attach-\\ning is nearer. The needle is\\nthen repeatedly passed under\\nthe bar, and the working thread drawn tightly\\neach time, until the opposite end of the bar is\\nreached.\\nThe overcasting away from instead of toward\\nthe worker secures a better twist or rope effect,\\nand each twisting or overcasting of the thread\\nhelps to keep the preceding overcastings in place,\\nand avoids the loop in the nearer end of the bar,\\nwhere the thread turns back upon itself.\\nThe working thread is carried from one com-\\npleted bar to the point from which another is be-\\ngun by a series of overcasting stitches along the\\nselvage of the braid.\\nThe double twisted bar, Fig. 6, is formed by\\ncasting three threads across the space to be filled.\\nThese threads are stretched\\njust sufficiently to cause them\\nto lie in a straight line between\\nthe braids without pulling them\\nfrom their places. They are\\nthen overcast together in an\\nopen effect that allows the\\nfoundation threads to show\\nbetween the coiling of the over-\\ncasting thread, which winds\\nF t\u00c2\u00bb [stki. 1 bar LE around them like a tendril.\\nThese bars may be arranged according to fancy,\\nand are grouped in clusters of three, arranged in\\npoints and in rays from a common centre, or are\\nplaced in parallel lines, when they are sometimes\\ntied through the centre with a series of buttonhole\\nknots, and this tying thread overcast as are the\\nbars.\\nPlain Buttonhole Bar.\\nWhen a bar heavier than the twisted bars is\\ndesired, the plain buttonhole bar may be used, as\\nin Fig. 7. The thread is fastened securely and\\ncarried across the space to be filled two, three, or\\nfour times, according to the weight or size of the\\nbar desired. The working\\nthread is then carried one\\nloop of the braid-edge\\nlower than the one into\\nwhich the foundation\\nthreads are placed, and the\\nentire bar filled closely and\\nsmoothly with a row of\\nbuttonhole stitches, which\\nmay be worked either from\\nleft to right, or from right\\nto left; but the former is\\nthe easier, as the thread\\ndoes not have to be thrown\\naround into position, but falls in place with the\\nworking of each stitch. The carrying of the\\nworking thread one loop of the braid-edge be-\\nlow the foundation threads of the bar keeps the\\nfinished bar in place, and avoids all tendency to\\ncurl or twist out of shape. For the same rea-\\nson, when the end of the bar is reached, the\\nthread is fastened just below the last stitch.\\nWhere a series of bars is to be worked, the work-\\ning thread is overcast along the braid-edge to the\\ndesired position of the second bar, and the process\\nrepeated. These buttonhole bars may be grouped\\nin various ways, and are often called Point de\\nVenise bars.\\nButtonholed Bars with Pinned Picots.\\nWhen open picots (also called dots or purls) are\\ndesired on the buttonholed bar, they are formed\\nas the work proceeds, at intervals of halves, thirds,\\nquarters, or according to whatever arrangement is\\nchosen. See Fig. 8. A small pin is thrust into\\nFig. 7. Plain Button-\\nhole Bar.", "height": "2751", "width": "1916", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "the pattern at a distance from the bar correspond-\\ning with the desired length of the picot. The\\nworking thread is passed under the pin, and is\\ncarried over and behind the foundation threads,\\nand outside of the loop held down by the pin.\\nThe needle is then thrust with a buttonhole stitch,\\nat right angles to the bar, under the pinned loop\\nand the other thread, which has just reappeared\\ntI!8 ofe\\ni_n\\ntxi\\nLU\\nJ\\nPIG. 8. BUTTONHOLE Bak\\nwith Pinned Picot.\\nFig. 9. Buttonhole Bar\\nwith Picot.\\nfrom behind the foundation threads. This button-\\nhole stitch is then drawn tightly to the bar, and\\nclose to the last buttonhole stitch on the bar. The\\nbuttonholing is then continued until another picot\\nis desired, when the process is repeated. When it\\nis desired that more than one buttonhole stitch is\\nto bind the picot in place, the first one is fastened\\nsufficiently far from the bar to allow the others\\nto be fitted closely between it and the bar, as is\\nshown in Fig. 9.\\nBar with Buttonhole Picot.\\nIn making the buttonhole picot, the button-\\nholing of the prepared foundation threads is\\ncontinued for six or more stitches beyond the\\npoint where the picot is to begin; or, in other\\nwords, the buttonholing is continued to the farther\\nend of the proposed picot. The thread is then\\ncarried back to the sixth\\nstitch, and passed between\\nit and the seventh. It is\\nthen carried forward again\\nand over the foundation\\nthreads close to the end of\\nthe buttonholing. Again it\\nis carried back to the sixth\\nbuttonhole and secured.\\nThe needle is then thrust\\nbetween the seventh and\\neighth buttonhole stitches.\\nThis is done to prevent the\\nend of the picot from curling up out of place.\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0nm jij\\nt\\nj H\\nn\\nFig. 10. Bar with Button-\\nholed Picot.\\nThe three foundation threads just made are then\\nbuttonholed until the picot is completed. The\\nremainder of the bar is then buttonholed.\\nBar with Two Rows of Dots.\\nOne of the prettiest and most effective bar\\nstitches consists of a foundation of two threads,\\nupon which are worked two rows of buttonhole\\nknots. One of these rows being on each side of\\nthe foundation threads, causes both sides of the\\nfinished bar to be exactly alike. The working\\nthread is fastened to the braid at the right-hand\\nend of the proposed bar, and is carried across to\\nthe opposite side, and there secured to the braid\\nby passing the needle under one thread of the\\nbraid edge. It is then returned to the right side,\\nand the buttonhole knots placed along the lower\\nside or edge of the foundation threads.\\nThe first stitch is a regular buttonhole stitch\\nthe second is a reversed buttonhole stitch. This is\\nworked in the following manner: The thread is\\nheld securely close to the just completed button-\\nhole stitch, by placing the left thumb upon it.\\nThe loose end of the thread (the end on which\\nthe needle is threaded) is then drawn upwards\\ntoward the end of the thumb, and secured beneath\\nit, thus forming a loop\\nwhose loose end is the\\none nearer the foundation\\nthreads. The needle is then\\npassed back of the two\\nfoundation threads, over the\\nupper or nearer thread of\\nthe thumb-held loop.\\nThis reversed buttonhole\\nstitch is drawn closely to\\nthe foundation threads. The\\nresult is two close button-\\nhole stitches secured by a\\ntiny bar of the thread be-\\nneath them, and parallel to\\nthe foundation threads. The next regular button-\\nhole stitch is placed upon the foundation threads\\njust far enough from the former pair to permit the\\nfilling in of the space between by the pair of stitches\\nto be worked from the other side. The reversed\\nbuttonhole stitch is then placed close to its com-\\npanion, and the work so continued to the end of\\nthe foundation threads, which will show groups\\nof two buttonhole stitches at regular intervals\\nalong its length.\\nFig. 11. Bab with Two\\nRows of Dots.", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "The entire pattern is then reversed, bringing\\nthe unfinished side of the bar into position for\\ncompletion. A group of the two buttonhole knots,\\nthe first regular and the second reversed, is then\\ninserted in each of the spaces left for this pur-\\npose. The result is a closely covered bar of intri-\\ncate appearance, and of a very braid-like effect.\\nIn fact, the ambitious worker may accomplish a\\npiece of lace which, though containing a braid, is\\nentirely hand made. To do this, a long, narrow\\nstrip of holland, or paper-lined cambric, is secured.\\nThe ends are then basted together, and a large\\nhoop or ring thus formed. To this the two foun-\\ndation threads are couched at regular intervals in\\na straight line, circling the hoop a number of\\ntimes sufficient to furnish the required length of\\nbraid.\\nThe pairs of buttonhole knots are then worked\\ndown the length of the threads on one side of the\\nfoundation threads. The holland hoop is then\\nreversed, and the other side of the braid com-\\npleted. The couching threads are then cut, and\\nthe dainty strip of braid released. The loop-\\nlike appearance of the edges furnish very excel-\\nlent openings for the needle, when the filling-in\\nstitches are placed.\\nA wider braid may be secured by increasing the\\nnumber of foundation threads, which may also be\\nof a larger size than the filling-in stitches, if so\\ndesired. A very pretty network results from the\\nuse of this pair of regular and reversed buttonhole\\nstitches. The work is done in rows, and is exactly\\nlike the Brussels net two-stitch, except that the\\nsecond buttonhole stitch of each pair is reversed.\\nRaleigh Bars.\\nAnother form of the buttonhole stitch bars is\\ncalled the Raleigh bar. In this stitch the foun-\\ndation bars are first laid throughout the space\\nto be filled, using a coarse thread. These bars are\\noften put in sufficiently loose that they may be\\ntwisted by the working thread several times before\\nthe next loop is made. This twisted .length serves\\nas another division, and increases the desired irreg-\\nular appearance of the bars. After the foundation\\nthreads are all in place the buttonholing is accom-\\nplished with occasional picots, either pinned, lace,\\nor bullion, worked at irregular intervals.\\nThis stitch may be worked in a regular design\\nof squares or triangles, but its chief beauty lies in\\nits irregularity of form.\\nFig. 12. Raleigh Bars.\\nBar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch.\\nThe foundation threads are prepared as for the\\nplain buttonhole bar. These threads are covered\\nwith buttonhole stitches set close together until\\nthe place where the picot is to be placed is reached.\\nThe needle is then thrust part way through the\\nlast buttonhole stitch, and\\nthe thread wound from left\\nto right ten to twenty times\\naround its point. These coils\\nof thread must be drawn up\\nclosely and evenly along the\\nlength of the needle, but not\\nso tightly that it is difficult\\nor impossible to draw the\\nneedle through them. The\\nleft thumb is placed upon\\nthe coil, and the needle\\ndrawn through with the fin-\\ngers of the right hand. The\\nthread is pulled up so tightly that the coil is drawn\\nalmost into a semicircle. The buttonholing of the\\nbar, against which the picot will rest securely, is\\ncontinued until the point for the next picot is\\nreached.\\nThis coiling of the thread about the needle may\\nbe used in various ways. At the intersection of\\ntwo twisted bars four bullion picots, meeting at\\nthe point of intersection, may be placed one be-\\ntween each right angle formed by the meeting\\nof the twisted threads. See Fig. 14. A space\\nfilled with a network of lines at right angles,\\nforming a checkerboard appearance when com-\\npleted, with a quartet of these bullion picots at\\nTfTrrTTTfT 3\\nnmjp^fl Un it n\\nkx^ KS B XX\\nI II 171. H ^^a, sx 31 IT\\nFig. 13. Buttonholed\\nBar with Picot in\\nBullion Stitch.\\n8", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "Fig. 14.\\nWay of Working Quatrefoil\\nin Bullion Stitch.\\neach intersection, is very effective. Closely worked\\nnetworks may\\nbe embellished\\nwith good ef-\\nfect, as shown\\nin Fig. 15. The\\nneedle in this\\ncase is passed\\ndown through\\nthe completed\\nnetwork at the\\npoint which is\\nto be the centre\\nof the figure,\\nand it reap-\\npears through\\nthe network at the point which is to be the outer\\nend of the figure. The thread is then coiled\\naround the point of the needle a sufficient num-\\nber of times to fill the space between the disap-\\npearance and reappearance of the needle. The\\nthumb is placed upon the coil, and the needle and\\nthread drawn through until the coils are closely\\nheld together, but in a straight line. The needle\\nis then thrust through the point where it made its\\nformer disappearance, and the coil lies on the net-\\nwork like a tiny leaf. Clusters of three or four of\\nthese coils meeting at a common centre are very\\neffective.\\nThe rounded bullion picot may also be worked\\nupon a completed network, and when it is desired\\nto have it lie flat, a\\nstitch may be taken\\nthrough the network\\nand the under-side of\\nthe picot, thus fasten-\\ning the coiled loop se-\\ncurely to the network.\\nThree bullion picot\\ncoils meeting at a cen-\\ntre, and with a worked\\nstem attached, make a very pretty clover leaf.\\nSee Fig. 15.\\nBranched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars.\\nWhen it is desired to fill with bars spaces too\\nwide to admit of the use of any of the bar stitches\\nalready given, branched bars will be very appropri-\\nate. They may be used with good effect, also,\\nin filling in backgrounds. A piece of lace\\nFio. 15. Trefoils in Bullion\\nStitch Worked on Button-\\nholed Foundation.\\nFig. IB. Branched But-\\ntonhole Bars.\\nwhose background is filled\\nwith branched buttonholed\\nbars presents an especially\\nrich appearance, and the\\nextra time and labor neces-\\nsary to accomplish this back-\\nground is fully repaid by\\nthe beauty of the result.\\nThe usual foundation of\\nthree threads is laid loosely\\nacross one corner of the\\nspace to be filled. These\\nfoundation threads are then\\nclosely buttonholed for about\\nhalf their length, when the working thread is car-\\nried to the point selected for the end of the next,\\nloop. A second and third passing of the thread\\nsupplies the new foundation for this next loop,\\nwhich is then- buttonholed for half its length,\\nwhen a third foundation is prepared.\\nThis is continued until the spacing of the bars\\nis accomplished. When in the placing of these\\nbars it is necessary to complete the buttonholing\\nof an unfinished bar before another is begun, it\\nshould be done, but the work should be so planned\\nthat the thread need never be broken, but will\\npass in a continuous circuit from bar to bar.\\nAll the bars being placed, the work of complet-\\ning the buttonholing of them is begun. The com-\\npletion of one loop brings the working thread to\\nthe next unfinished bar awaiting completion, and\\nso, one by one, the buttonholing of the bars is\\ncompleted.\\nBar with Lace Picot.\\nThe lace picots are formed somewhat differently.\\nSee Fig. 17. The pin is placed as for the open\\npinned picots, and the thread passed around it\\nand over and behind the foundation threads as\\nbefore, but reappears in-\\nside or between the sides of\\nthe loop. The pin should\\nbe far enough from the bar\\nto allow four buttonhole\\nstitches to be set snugly\\nupon the loop. The first\\none should be placed as\\nnear the pin as possible,\\nin order to cover entirely\\nthe foundation loop. The\\nFig. 17. Buttonhole Bar x\\nwith lace picot. other three stitches should\\ni h (i i\\nLL\\n5b8g!\\nJ fft n", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "follow the first ones closely and evenly, the last\\none lying against the last buttonhole stitch of\\nthe bar.\\nPoint d Anvers Bars.\\nFor the filling in of leaf -shaped spaces, and used\\nas an insertion for long narrow spaces, Point d An-\\nvers bars are equally good. The thread is fastened\\nat the middle of one end of the space to be filled,\\nand carried along the\\nedge of the braid, one\\nstitch to the right. It\\nis then brought across\\nthe length of the space\\nand attached to the\\nbraid, the same distance\\nfrom the centre of the\\nspace as it is removed\\nby the overcasting stitch\\nat the opposite end.\\nThe thread is then car-\\nr i e d by overcasting\\nstitches a distance to\\nthe left, equally distant\\nfrom the centre. It is\\nthen carried back in a\\nparallel line to the opposite, or first end of the\\n.space, and fastened. The two lines of thread should\\nFig. 18. Point d Anveks Bar.\\nbe perfectly parallel, and drawn tightly across the\\nspace, but not so tightly that they will draw the\\nbraid out of place. Keeping these foundation\\nthreads absolutely parallel, the working thread is\\npassed in a darning or weaving stitch over and\\nunder them for the desired distance. Then the\\nfirst pair of side loops or leaflets is made. The\\nprocess of the weaving brings the working thread\\nover the right bar. It is then passed behind it\\nand over the left bar as during the preceding weav-\\ning, and is passed through the edge of the braid at\\nthe left side of the space, with the point of the\\nneedle toward the already woven end of the work.\\nThe thread is then passed under the left bar and\\nover the right as before, and, with the point of the\\nneedle thrust from the woven end of the work, is\\ncarried through the edge of the braid, at the right\\nside of the space. It is then brought under the\\nright bar and under the last passing of the thread\\nacross the bars. It is then passed behind the left\\nbar and over the right, and the two side loops\\nbeing in place, the weaving of the bar is continued\\nuntil the place for the next pair of side loops is\\nreached, when the process is repeated. This is con-\\ntinued until the filling of the space is completed.\\nFor short connecting bars the Point d Anvers bar is\\nsometimes used without the side loops.\\nWheels or Spiders.\\nJHEELS or spiders are made on a foun-\\ndation of plain twisted bars. The\\nnumber of bars depends on the size of\\nthe space. They are cast across the\\nspace to be filled at distances from each other, and\\nFig. 19. Spinning Wheel. Fig. 20. Spinning Wheel.\\nin such a manner that they all cross in the centre\\nthe space. They form diameters, whose halves of\\nare radii of a circle. The first bar divides the\\nspace into halves and is overcast back to the start-\\ning-point. The thread is then overcast along the\\nedge of the braid for the required distance and\\nagain carried across the space, crossing the first\\nthread and entering the braid at the right place\\nand overcast back to its beginning. This is re-\\npeated until the last bar has been overcast to the\\ncentre, when all the threads may be fastened to\\ngether with a buttonhole knot or not, as preferred\\nThe spider is then woven.\\nThis is accomplished by passing the needle over\\nand under the different radii formed by the bars\\nand keeping the woven thread drawn tightly or\\nsnugly to the centre. This is continued until the\\nspider is of sufficient size, when the remaining ra-\\ndius or half bar is overcast and the thread cut.\\nThere are various kinds of spiders. The sim-\\nplest is shown in Fig. 19, and is formed by the\\nregular over and under weaving of the radii, and\\nresults in keeping every alternate radius on the\\n10", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "Fig. 21. Spinminq Wheel\\nwith Knotted Cikcles.\\nthem\\nupper side of the spider when finished. The\\nthread occasionally passed\\nbetween the two twisted\\nthreads of a radius will\\nkeep the circling thread of\\nthe spider from rolling upon\\nitself. Another effect is pro-\\nduced by skipping one ra-\\ndius in every circuit of the\\nthread forming the spider.\\nThis alternates the thread\\nover and under the same radius and hide\\nall from view, as shown in Fig. 20.\\nIn many uneven places the putting in of the\\nbars may be so regulated that their completion\\npermits a final half bar, or a radius, instead of a\\ndiameter. This is carried to the centre and the\\nspider woven as before. Here the odd number of\\nradii admits, in fact necessitates, the continual al-\\nternating of the bars or radii.\\nA pretty result is obtained by circling the spider\\nwith one, two, or more rows of the thread, tied at\\neach radius with a buttonhole knot as shown in\\nFig. 21. These circles are to be perfectly true and\\nequally distant from the spider. To form these\\ncircles the last radius is overcast two or three\\ntimes, and the series of knots tied around the spider\\nat each radius. Upon completing the circle a few\\nmore overcasting stitches carries the thread a\\nsufficient distance, and a second circle is knotted\\nin. When enough circles have been made, the rest\\nof the radius is overcast and the thread fastened\\noff. Smaller spiders, Point de Venise shells,\\nand other similar stitches may be placed at the\\ntying of each knot, and become very effective.\\nSpinning Wheel Rosettes.\\nThe spinning wheel rosettes, Figs. 22 and 23,\\nalso called ribbed wheels, are made on a founda-\\ntion of twisted threads crossing in the centre simi-\\nlar to the foundation threads for the spider or\\nwheel before given. The working thread is carried\\nunder two radii, drawn up closely and firmly in\\nplace. The needle is then passed under the second\\nof these radii, and also under the next one (see\\nFig. 23), and the thread\\nis again drawn into posi-\\ntion. In this manner the\\nworking thread is always\\ncarried back over the last\\nradius under which it\\npassed, and forward under\\nFig. 22. Spinning Wheel tne uext one T bj s resiuts\\nRosette.\\nm a raised twist or coil\\nover each radius as shown in the finished wheel,\\nFig. 22. When the lace is being made with the\\nright side next the pattern, these ribbed wheels\\nmust be made wrong\\nside up. To do this\\nthe needle is thrust\\nunder one radius at a\\ntime, with the point\\nof the needle toward\\nboth the worker and\\nthe last radius around\\nwhich the thread has\\npassed. The thread\\nis then carried over\\nthe radius and on to\\nthe next one, where\\nthe process is re-\\npeated. The two ways\\nmay be combined, and\\nthe result is a very\\neffective rosette that\\nis often seen in drawn work. The centre is worked\\nwith the coil on the upper or working side for a\\nsufficient space, when for a similar space the work\\nis reversed, and the coil worked on the under side.\\nFig. 23. Detail of Spinning\\nWheel Rosette.\\n11", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "Insertions.\\nPlain Russian Stitch.\\n,HE plain Russian\\nstitch, Fig. 24, is\\nthe simplest of the\\ninsertions, and, like\\nall insertions, is suitable for\\nlong, narrow spaces in the\\ndesign of the pattern. This\\nis accomplished by a series\\nof buttonhole stitches, alternat-\\ning from one side of the space\\nFig. 24. Plain Rcs-\\nto the other. SIAN stitch.\\nThe thread is securely fastened in the upper, or\\nfarther, left-hand corner. It is then brought for-\\nward over the space and held against the pattern\\nby the left thumb. The needle is then thrust\\nthrough the braid on the right side of the space,\\nwith the needle pointing directly across toward\\nthe braid at the left side. The thread is carried\\nthrough the braid and again secured by the left\\nthumb. The work is then repeated from the left\\nside of the space, with the needle pointing toward\\nthe right side. Holding the thread down with the\\nthumb makes it impossible to make a wrong twist,\\nas the needle never passes under the thread held\\nin this way.\\nThis stitch may be varied by tying each cross-\\ning thread in the middle with a buttonhole knot.\\nTwisted Russian Stitch.\\nThe twisted Russian stitch, Fig. 25, is a trifle\\nmore complicated. As in the former, the stitches\\nalternate from right to left, but the method of hold-\\ning the thread down with the left thmnb differs.\\nThe thread is fastened at\\nthe upper left-hand corner and\\ncarried forward over the space\\nto be filled. The thumb is\\nthen placed upon it as near\\nthe point of fastening as is\\npractical, and the thread is\\nbrought to the right and again\\nslipped under the thumb, form-\\ning an open loop, upon both\\nsides of which the thumb rests.\\nThe needle is then thrust\\nthrough the edge of the braid\\nat the right, with the point directed to the op-\\nFig. 25. Twisted Bus\\nsian Stitch.\\nposite left. It is then passed over the right-hand\\nthread of the loop, under the left-hand thread, and\\ndrawn up. It is well to leave the thumb on the loop\\ntill the stitch is nearly completed, as it avoids\\ntangling the thread and causes a more even\\ntwist-\\nAgain the thumb holds down the thread, which\\nis then brought up on the left side and slipped\\nunder the thumb as before. The needle is thrust\\nthrough the braid at the left over the loose side of\\nthe loop and under the other or right side. This\\nis repeated until the space is filled.\\nThe same effect may be produced by using the\\nplain Russian stitch, and with an overcasting stitch\\nproducing the extra twist; but this takes more\\ntime and is not as even in results.\\nColumn Stitch.\\nColumn stitch, shown in Fig. 26, is a combina-\\ntion of plain and twisted Russian stitch. Each\\nstitch on one side of the space to be filled is a\\nplain Russian stitch, while all those on the other\\nside are twisted Russian stitches, with the work-\\ning thread passed three or more times around the\\nalready twisted thread. This stitch makes a very\\npretty insertion for either\\nstraight or curved spaces.\\nIn the latter, the twisted\\nside of the stitch may be\\nat the outer curve of the\\nplace to be filled, and the\\ntwisted threads will radiate\\nevenly outwards. The op-\\nposite effect may be obtained\\nby reversing the order of\\nthe stitches, when the coils\\nof the twisted side will con-\\nverge, and, if the curve is\\npronounced, will almost meet, and have the ap-\\npearance of the spokes of a wheel.\\nInsertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch.\\nAlong both sides of the long, narrow space to be\\nfilled, a row of Brussels net (single buttonhole)\\nstitches is worked very evenly and quite loosely.\\nIf the space is a curve the stitches along the inner\\nor smaller side of the space must be made closer\\ntogether, in order that the stitches of the two rows\\nFig. 20. Column Stitch.\\n12", "height": "2741", "width": "1932", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "will be in pairs, with each loop of the inner side\\nbetween two loops of the opposite side. This\\nWMUMWk\\n1. J. r\u00e2\u0080\u0094 H\\ni b .h. h. m\\nJl. B .H JL\\nFig. 27. Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch.\\narrangement places a loop opposite every button-\\nhole stitch on either side of the space, and makes\\nan even, regular spacing for the Russian stitch,\\nwhich connects the two rows of net stitches. To\\ndo this the thread is fastened at one end of one of\\nthe rows of net stitches, and is carried from side\\nto side, looping into each net stitch in turn. This\\nconnecting stitch may be either plain or twisted\\nRussian stitch, or, as shown in the cut, may be\\nplain Russian on one side, and twisted Russian on\\nthe other. Column stitch may also be used.\\nInsertion of Buttonhole Stitch.\\nA very pleasing variation of the foregoing stitch\\nis made by arranging the single rows of Brussels\\nnet stitches with the loops directly opposite each\\nother. The space between the two rows is then\\nfilled with a row of double Russian stitch. This\\nis made by placing two stitches of either plain or\\nrp\\n/\\\\XAY Mm MaY YlAT Mm\\nJ~~^ (Mm JWhS (ail IwQi JWw\\n\\\\mX\\\\\\n,;SfH!L\\n1\\nK\\nFig. 28. Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch.\\ntwisted Russian stitch in each loop. Where a\\nclose or compact insertion is desired, triple or\\nquadruple Russian stitch may be used. This is\\naccomplished by placing three or four Russian\\nstitches in each loop. For all ordinary purposes\\ndouble, or at most triple, Russian stitch is all that\\nis necessary. A more or less compact effect will\\nbe gained bv using a finer or coarser thread.\\nInsertion with Cones.\\nWhen a heavy, showy effect is desired, cone\\ninsertion may be used. The working thread is\\nfastened to the middle of one end of the space to\\nbe filled. A single row of plain Russian stitch is\\nworked throughout the length of the space. The\\nstitches of this Russian insertion must be placed at\\nregular intervals, but somewhat far apart. Upon\\nthis as a foundation, the cones are placed. These\\ncones are worked over each pair of threads diverg-\\ning from the braid. The working thread is at-\\ntached to the point of divergence of the first two\\nthreads, which is, in other words, the point where\\nthe thread forming the Russian stitch is first\\nattached to the braid. The thread is then carried\\nby means of the needle over and under these two\\ndiverging threads until a closely woven, cone-shaped\\nfigure, reaching from its point at the edge of the\\nU 1 J\\nE CCO\\n1\\ni\\nff\\nT|3.\\nEn\\nTin\\ni\\np:::\\nA J\\n^jEf^ ^1?\\n3 _ _\\ni\u00c2\u00ab\\nC\\niik\\ni i\\nI\\n1\\nIE\\nj5\\nV\\nCD\\nFig. 29. Insertion with Cones.\\nbraid to the middle of the width of the space, is\\nfinished.\\nThe working thread is then carried by means of\\na series of overcasting or twisting threads along\\nthe other half of the thread which is to form one\\nfoundation or side of the first cone on the other side\\nof the space. The braid being reached, the thread\\nis carried through the open margin of the braid at\\nthe point where the thread of the Russian stitch\\nenters. A cone is woven over these threads, and\\nthe working thread carried as before to the adjoin-\\ning threads on the opposite side of the space.\\nInsertion with Reversed Cones.\\nA still more massive effect is produced by revers-\\ning the cones, and in this way having their bases\\nrest upon the braid along the sides of the space to\\nbe filled, and the points of each pair of opposite\\ncones meeting at the centre of the width of the\\nspace.\\nThe first row of plain Russian stitch is worked\\nthroughout the length of the space as before. A\\n13", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "second row of the same stitch is then worked over\\nthe first in such a manner that the working thread\\nis attached to the braid just half way between the\\nattachments of the first row. This results in the\\nthreads of the two rows crossing each other exactly\\n1 AUIl\\nEC\\ni i/ i M u M o, J\\nTT7T T I mi ill II T\\nj -fix\\n:5c\\nQT rij n i| I-\\nxc!;\\nT^t\\nJiiftj\\nm\\nkm\\nm^r-\\nFig. 30. Insertion with Reversed Coxes.\\nin the centre of the width of the space. The work-\\ning thread is then carried over and under the first\\ntwo threads that will meet in the centre. The\\nweaving thread having arrived at the point where\\nthe threads cross each other, the point or apex\\nof the opposite cone is reached, and the weaving\\ncontinued over these two threads until the second\\ncone is completed at the arrival of the working\\nthread at the edge of the opposite braid. The\\nsucceeding pairs of cones are worked in the same\\nmanner.\\nBeaded Insertion or D Alencon.\\nAs in Fig. 27 a row of Brussels net stitches,\\nwith the long loops opposite each other, is worked\\non both sides of the narrow space to be filled.\\nThe working thread is then carried once around\\nthe end loop to which it is nearest, and that\\nloop and the one opposite are then joined to-\\ngether by four connecting loops, which must lie\\nin close parallel lines. They must never cross or\\nlie upon each other. To make these loops the\\nneedle is thrust under the loop at the right side of\\nn\\nTX\\nFig. 31. Beaded Insertion, or D Alencon Bars.\\nthe space, across to the opposite loop, under which\\nalso the needle passes, and is drawn out between\\nthe loop and the braid. This is repeated the other\\nthree times necessary to make the bead of four\\nthreads. At the completion of one bead, the\\nworking thread is carried once around the filled\\nnet loop, and once around the next one, which is\\nthen joined, as was the first pair, to the next op-\\nposite net loop. This brings all the overcasting\\nof the net loops, when carrying the thread from\\none pair of stitches to the next, on the same side\\nof the work.\\nInsertion with Small Wheels.\\nTo make this pretty stitch, the space to be\\nfilled is first covered with an insertion of plain\\nRussian stitch, having the distance between the\\nstitches on either side of the braid just twice as\\nfar apart as you desire them to be in the com-\\npleted work. A second row of plain Russian\\nstitch is then worked over the first, with the\\nstitches on either side of the braid exactly half\\nway between those of the\\nformer row. The threads\\nof the two rows of stitches\\ncross each other in the mid-\\ndle of the space, and form a\\nseries of diamonds and tri-\\nangles, and the result is a\\nvery pretty insertion with-\\nout further work.\\nTo place the wheels at\\nthe points of intersection\\nof the threads, the working\\nthread is first carried to\\nthe middle of one end of\\nthe space, and then to the\\ncrossing of the first two threads. Here, if desired,\\na knot may fasten them together, but it is not\\nnecessary, and the effect is better if the weaving\\nof the wheels is begun over the crossing of the\\nloose threads. There being an uneven number of\\nthreads (five), the weaving thread will alternate\\nover and under into a basket weave that will hold\\nthe work securely in place. The completion of\\neach wheel must be on the side nearest the next\\nwheel to be worked. The needle is passed behind\\nor under two threads of the finished wheel, and to\\nthe next point of intersection (see Fig. 32), where\\nthe next wheel is worked.\\nWhen it is desired to make the work more elab-\\norate, half wheels may be worked at each or at\\nevery alternate connection of the thread with the\\nbraid. These half wheels are formed by weaving\\ni\u00c2\u00b0\\nii ij i\\nJi 11 i\\n/rtS^ 3\\n*f^JE;j\\nllsJ\\n32 5=\u00c2\u00a3S^\\nJ^M=|\\nFig. 32. Insertion with\\nSmall Wheels.\\n14", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "the working thread through the edge of the braid,\\nover and under the two diverging threads, and\\nthrough the edge of the braid on the other side\\nuntil the half wheel is of sufficient size.\\nBars of Point d Angleterre.\\nInsertion with big wheels. When a more showy\\ninsertion is desired, a design with larger wheels\\nmay be used. To accomplish this a thread is car-\\nried lengthwise across the middle of the space to\\nbe filled and fastened into position in the braid at\\nthe ends of the space. The working thread is\\nthen carried by means of overcasting stitches\\nalong the open edge of the braid to the corner of\\nthe space. A loose loop is then formed across\\nthis end of the space by passing the working\\nthread through the opposite corner, and leaving\\nthe loop loose enough to form the vertical half of\\na diamond-shaped space. The thread is then car-\\nried by means of overcasting stitches a sufficient\\ndistance along the braid at the side of the space to\\nbe filled.\\nThe needle is then thrust over the former loop,\\nunder the horizontal thread that was first carried\\nacross the length\\nof the space, and\\nagain over the\\nthread of the\\nloop. It is then\\ncarried to the op-\\nposite side of the\\nspace and fas-\\ntened to the edge\\nof the braid at\\nexactly the same\\ndistance from the corner as is its opposite end from\\nthe other corner. The thread is then carried di-\\nrectly across the space from one end of this second\\nor inverted, loop to the other, and just tightly\\nenough to form a straight line across the space.\\nThis thread is then overcast to the middle of the\\nspace, where a wheel of four or more circlings of\\nthe threads is woven with the thread passing each\\ntime over the same threads of the intersection.\\nShould the circles of the resulting wheels be\\nprone to slip out of place the needle may be thrust\\nbetween the two threads of the twisted length, but\\nwith careful work this will not be necessary. The\\nwheel being completed, the thread is carried back\\nof it to its opposite side, where the other half of\\nthe straight thread is overcast and the needle\\n1-\\n1=\\njf^L^MM_\\\\\\ng a^y\\ntt\\nTf\\n^T\\nFig. 33. Insertion with Large Wheels.\\npassed through the braid. From this point a new\\nloop is formed, reaching from one end of the\\nstraight twisted thread to the other. The thread\\nis then carried along the braid and the work con-\\ntinued.\\nThe beauty of this insertion lies in the exactness\\nwith which it is made. The space between the\\nstraight threads must always be exactly the same,\\nand the loops must all be of the same length, so\\nthat each diamond may be exactly like its neigh-\\nbors, and surround a wheel exactly the size of all\\nthe other wheels.\\nInsertion with Branches.\\nThese are two very pretty leaf or branched in-\\nsertions. They are especially appropriate for oval\\nor leaf-shaped openings. The working thread is\\nfastened to the middle of one end of the space to\\nbe filled and carried to the middle of the opposite\\nend of the space, where it is carried by the needle\\nunder four or five threads of the open edge of the\\nbraid. This ensures the rounded open shape of\\nthe leaflet. The needle is then thrust, in a similar\\nmanner, under the same number of threads, along\\nthe left side of the braid near the upper end of the\\nspace, with the needle pointed upwards. The loop\\nso formed is left slack or loose enough to form the\\nloose, open loops at the braid edges, and, for the\\nmiddle of the loop, to lie close to the lengthwise\\nthread or midrib to which it is soon to be tied.\\nrr\\nFig. 34. Insertion with\\nBranches.\\nFig. 35 Insertion with\\nBranches.\\nThe thread is then carried horizontally across the\\nspace, and the needle thrust with its point directed\\ndownwards under four or five threads of the braid.\\nThe thread is then carried in the midrib, and the\\nneedle thrust behind or under the first or left-side\\nleaflet, the midrib and the second or right-side\\nleaflet, and under the point of the needle, which is\\n15", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "then drawn through, and the thread tightened in\\nthe buttonhole knot which results. This com-\\npletes the first group of leaflets. The needle is\\nthen again thrust into the braid at. the left side of\\nthe space, and the second pair of leaflets begun.\\nAfter the leaflets are tied together with the but-\\ntonhole knot, the working thread may be carried\\nalternately over the leaves and under the midrib, cir-\\ncling the knot a sufficient number of times to make\\na wheel or rosette at the intersection of the leaflets.\\nLeaf Insertion.\\nAn insertion with leaves in darning stitch is\\nexcellent where a heavy, rich effect is desired.\\nThe working thread is attached to the end of the\\nspace at which the first terminal leaf of the inser-\\ntion is to be worked. This thread is then carried\\nto the opposite end of the space, thrust through a\\nsingle loop of the braid, and carried back, un-\\ntwisted, to the starting point. It is then carried\\nto the left side of the space, and attached to the\\nbraid at that point by having the needle thrust\\nunder not more than two\\nthreads of the open edge\\nof the braid. The thread\\nis then carried to the right\\nside of the space, and\\ncaught into the braid in\\nthe same manner at a point\\nexactly opposite the point\\nof attachment on the left\\nside. The thread is then\\nbrought back to the mid-\\nrib, or two long threads.\\nThe needle is then thrust\\nbehind all the threads, and drawn up in a tight\\nbuttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration\\nfor insertion with branches, Fig. 34.\\nThe thread is then carried, for a second time,\\naround the terminal or first leaf, which is then filled\\nfrom point to knot with a close succession of darn-\\ning stitches over and under the threads outlining\\nthe leaf. At the completion of this leaf, the thread\\nis carried around the left leaf, and passed again\\nthrough the braid at its point. This makes three\\nFig. 36. Leap Insertion.\\nfoundation threads on one side, and two on the\\nother side of the leaf. When an effect not so heavy\\nis desired, the thread passing all around the leaf\\nmay be omitted. This makes two foundation\\nthreads on one side and one on the other, and is\\nsomewhat more difficult to darn. This leaf is then\\ndarned, after which the leaf on the right side is\\nfinished in a similar manner.\\nThe outlines for the second pair of side leaves\\nare then made and tied to the midrib with a but-\\ntonhole knot as were the first two. The working\\nthread is then passed one and a half times around\\nthe two threads of the midrib that is to form the\\nmiddle of the next trio of leaves. The needle is\\npassed through the knot each time at the point of\\nthis leaf. This is at the base of the completed\\ntrio of leaves above. The middle leaf is then\\nfilled with the darning stitch, as are each of the\\nside leaves. The work proceeds in this way until\\nthe entire space is filled.\\nCluster Insertion.\\nThis is one of the most charming and use-\\nful of the insertions, and the ease with which\\nit is made increases its popularity. It is equally\\nappropriate for straight or curved spaces. Two\\ntwisted parallel bars are worked, and the thread\\nfor the third bar carried across and overcast nearly\\nto the middle, when the three bars, two twisted\\nand one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but-\\ntonhole stitches, worked over them close together.\\nThe twisting of the third\\nbar is then completed.\\nThe first and third bars\\nof each group should be j ust\\nloose or slack enough to\\nadmit of their being fas-\\ntened, by the buttonhole\\nstitches, to the middle bar,\\nwithout drawing the braid\\nout of place. The first bar\\nof each succeeding trio\\nshould be placed close to\\nthe last bar of the preced-\\ntion. ing group.\\nA ^vrrrr\\nX\u00c2\u00a3\\ni 8-^w^^fj\\na g aCLy^*^ ^^i*\\n1 t+ J fM- jtj mTf^Vc4\\nn 5 a\\nu g b\\nFig. 37\\n16", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "Network Stitches.\\nloosely.\\nSingle Net Stitch.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2INGLE net stitch, called Brussels point\\n(Point de Bruxelles), is the foundation\\nof many of the net stitches, and consists\\nof rows of buttonhole stitches worked\\nThe beauty of this stitch lies in the even-\\nness and regularity of the stitches. The loops\\nshould all be of the same length, and the buttonhole\\nstitches must fall in even lines, forming parallel\\ndiagonal lines both from the upper right-hand cor-\\nner toward the lower left, and from the upper left\\ntoward the lower right. The chief difficulty in\\nworking this stitch is at the ends of the rows.\\nThe loops form diamond-shaped spaces, and great\\ncare must be taken at the ends of each row to so\\nplace the stitches that the fractional spaces shall\\nbe true parts of whole\\nspaces. A little care\\nin regulating the dis-\\ntance along its edge,\\nin carrying the\\nthread to position\\nfor the next row of\\nstitches, and trial\\nplacing of the thread\\nto note the effect, will soon lead to great profi-\\nciency in this respect. Every loop should, in the\\nfollowing row, receive a buttonhole stitch, and all\\nwidening and narrowing must be done at the ends\\nof the rows. The stitches must be kept even, and\\nthe loops of the same size. When this is done,\\nthe widening and narrowing attends to itself. The\\nworker should never attempt to retain the same\\nnumber of stitches in every row throughout an\\nirregular space. The space must regulate the\\nnumber of stitches, and accommodate only just\\nso many as there is room for when keeping them\\nat their regular size. This stitch may be made\\nwith large open loops, giving a very open, lacy\\neffect, or the loops may be made small, and conse-\\nquently the work much more close in appearance.\\nBoth for background and for filling in, this is a\\nvery useful stitch, and will be found especially\\ndesirable for large spaces.\\nVenice originated Point proper, which may have\\nbeen worked there in isolated instances before\\n1600, but it came prominently forward towards the\\nmiddle of the seventeenth century. Designs given\\nFig. 38. Single Net Stitch.\\nDoi ULE Net Stitch.\\nin the pattern books of the sixteenth century are\\nall of the Reticella type, and cannot be bought\\nunder designation of real Point.\\nDouble Net Stitch.\\nDouble net stitch, also called Point de Sorrento,\\nshown in Fig. 39, and the two stitch, is made in\\nthe same manner as is the single net stitch, except\\nthat here the loops between the buttonhole stitches\\nare somewhat less rounded that is, they are drawn\\na little more closely, and, instead of one buttonhole\\nstitch, two are made\\nclose together. In or-\\nder to keep them thus\\nnear each other, the\\nsecond stitch must be\\ndrawn tightly up to\\nthe first. The same\\nrules as to evenness,\\nregularity, widening,\\nand narrowing that are given for the single net\\nstitch apply to this as well as all other net\\nstitches. The two stitch, while taking twice as\\nlong as the single net stitch, is more easily made\\nperfect, as the two stitches aid in keeping the\\nwork firm and true. This is one of the most sat-\\nisfactory of the net stitches.\\nThree Stitch.\\nThe three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento,\\nand is identical with the two stitch, except that\\nthree close buttonhole stitches are used instead of\\ntwo. This results in a heavier, more solid effect.\\nIf a still closer effect is desired, four buttonhole\\nstitches may be used. In this case the intervening\\nloop should be just long enough to accommodate\\nthe four stitches that\\nare to be placed in it\\nwhen working the next\\nrow. These stitches\\nmay be combined and\\nvaried in different\\nways. A good effect\\nis produced by alter-\\nnating first a row of\\nsingle net stitch, and then a row of three stitch.\\nThree rows of single net stitch may be followed\\nby three rows of the two stitch. In fact it is the\\nvariation and combination of these stitches that\\nform many of the intricate lace stitches.\\nFig. 40. Three Stitch.\\n17", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "Buttonholed Net\\nStitch.\\nButtonholed Net Stitch.\\nWhere a network showing a heavy effect is\\ndesired, buttonholed net stitch is excellent. A\\nrow of Brussels net is worked with wide, regular\\nloops. Into each of these loops is worked a regu-\\nlar number of buttonhole stitches sufficient to\\ncompletely fill the loop from one buttonhole stitch\\nto the next. The third row is like the first a\\nrow of wide Brussels net stitches. Each stitch is\\nplaced in the little loop between the groups of\\nbuttonhole stitches of\\nthe second row. The\\nfourth row is like the\\nsecond. When finished\\nthe groups of close but-\\ntonhole stitches should\\nform vertical rows across\\nthe space filled. Care\\nshould be taken not to\\ndraw the work to one\\nside or the other, and in this way pull these rows\\nout of the vertical. In an oblong or long pointed\\nspace, the group of close stitches at the middle of\\nthe top row should extend to the extreme point\\nof the opposite end. As buttonhole stitch is made\\nmore readily from the left to the right, the rows\\nof close stitches may be worked in that direction,\\nand the open rows from right to left. This is\\naccomplished by beginning the work at the upper\\nright-hand corner.\\nAnother buttonholed net stitch is shown in Fig.\\n42. The first row of this stitch is formed by\\nworking three buttonhole stitches rather close\\ntogether (with just a little more than room be-\\ntween them for another stitch), and then begin-\\nning a second group of three stitches sufficiently\\nfar from the first to\\nmake the long loop be-\\ntween the two groups\\nequal in length to the\\nspace occupied by the\\ngroups of three stitches.\\nIn the second row the\\nlong loops are nearly\\nfilled with a close row\\nof buttonhole stitches,\\nanil a single buttonhole stitch is placed in each of\\nthe two loops formed between the groups of three\\nstitches of the previous row. The third row is\\nlike the first, and the fourth row is like the second.\\nThe result is a more open, fanciful arrangement\\nFig. 42.\\nButtonholed Net\\nStitch.\\nof stitches than the preceding pattern, but, like it,\\nthe rows of close buttonhole stitches form vertical\\nlines from end to end of the space filled.\\nPoint de Venise Stitches.\\nPoint de Venise, often called shell, seed, or side\\nstitch, is very popular, and suitable either for\\nedgings or for the filling in of spaces. For the\\nformer a single row of shells is worked around\\nthe edge of the completed lace. For filling in\\nspaces, the work is done in rows. Beginning at\\nthe right-hand corner of the space to be filled, a\\nrow of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is\\nworked. The thread is carried down the side of\\nthe braid the distance equal to the width of a\\nstitch. Into the first loop is pilaced a buttonhole\\nstitch, and as in the Petit Point de Venise, this\\nstitch is tied by another buttonhole stitch worked\\nsideways. This stitch should be far enough from\\nthe top of the buttonhole stitch being covered to\\naccommodate three other rather tightly drawn\\nbuttonhole stitches, which are worked side by side\\nand each above its predecessor until the last one\\ncovers the end of the loop upon which the shell\\nis built. This shell being finished, a buttonhole\\nstitch is placed in the next loop of the first row,\\nand another shell worked upon it. In placing the\\nstitches of the shell, the\\nneedle is thrust under\\nand at right angles with\\nboth threads of the but-\\ntonhole stitch to be cov-\\nered.\\nThe size of the shell\\ndepends upon the num-\\nber of side stitches\\nworked, and upon how tightly they are drawn.\\nFour stitches is the usual number. A more curved\\neffect is obtained if the first stitch is quite tightly\\ndrawn, and the others made looser. The row of\\nshells being completed, the third row is worked.\\nThis consists of a row of single net stitches, one\\nbuttonhole stitch being placed between each shell,\\nand the loop drawn up so as to fit like a saucer\\naround the shell above it. This gives a rather\\nclose effect, and is decidedly pretty. Where a\\nmore open result is desired, the loops may be\\nmade larger. In this case the loops upon which\\nthe shells are made must also be made larger, as\\nall the loops throughout must be of the same size.\\nFig. 43. Point de Venise.\\n18", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "Fig. 44. Point de Venise.\\nIn widening, very great care must be taken not to\\nmake the loops larger,\\nor stint the number of\\nshells, and so give the\\nlatter part of the work\\na straggly, loose appear-\\nance, very different from\\nthe first part.\\nAnother variation of\\nPoint de V e n i s e is\\nshown in Fig. 44. In this the row of single net\\nstitches is omitted, and a shell is worked upon\\nevery loop of each row. This causes the shells of\\nthe first and third rows to slant toward the left\\nwhile the shells of the second and fourth rows\\nslant toward the right. Worked in this way, the\\nresult is a heavy, sumptuous stitch, and is very\\nbeautiful. Perhaps the fact that it is so much\\nmore slowly worked is the reason we find it less\\noften in use than the more favored variety with\\nthe row of net stitches.\\nStill another Point de\\nVenise stitch, Pig. 45, is\\nvaried as well as made\\nmore open, and worked\\nin less time by omitting\\nevery other shell. The\\nalternating rows of Brus-\\nsels net stitches are made\\nas in Fig. 43. In the\\nsecond row a loop is made, and a shell worked\\nupon it. A second loop has the shell omitted.\\nOn the third loop a shell is worked. Alternating\\nin this way the row is finished. Great care must\\nbe used in putting in the net stitches of the third\\nrow to avoid skipping a stitch. A stitch must be\\nplaced close upon each side of every shell of the\\nrow above. This ensures a buttonhole stitch upon\\neach side of the single stitches between the\\nshells. When finished the pattern shows rows of\\nparallel diagonal lines of shells across the space\\nfilled. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its\\nperfect regularity.\\nA pleasing arrangement of Point de Venise\\nstitches is made by working one net stitch beneath\\nwhich three or four side stitches are placed. This\\nstitch may be worked in two ways. The loops\\nbetween the single net stitches are made sufficiently\\nloose to admit of the placing of the three or four\\nsiae stitches, which fill the loop until it is almost\\nStraight. The work is begun at the upper left\\nFig. 45. Point de Venise.\\nPig. 46. Point de Venisk.\\ncorner, and when\\nthe opposite up-\\nper right corner\\nis reached the\\nthread is fas-\\ntened to the\\nbraid and carried\\ndown its edge for\\na space equal to\\nthe width of the\\nstitches of the\\nfirst row. The second row is like the first, except\\nthat it proceeds from right to left. This method\\ncauses the side stitches of every alternate row to\\npoint to the left, and the intervening rows to point\\nto the right. When it is desired to have all the\\nside stitches lie in the same direction, the thread,\\nat the completion of the first row, is carried to the\\nleft side by thrusting the needle once through\\neach loop of the first row, and in this way carrying\\nit across the space. This gives a corded effect to\\nthe loops. The thread is carried down the side of\\nthe braid, and the working of the second row is\\nbegun.\\nThese Point de Venise stitches may be distin-\\nguished from each other by calling them accord-\\ning to the number of stitches used. The two-one\\nPoint de Venise stitch consists of two net stitches\\nand one side stitch. The two-two stitch is com-\\nposed of two net stitches and two side stitches.\\nThe three-one is made of three net stitches and\\none side stitch, while one net stitch and three\\nside stitches is called the one-three Point de\\nVenise.\\nPetit Point de Venise.\\nThis stitch may be worked openly or as com-\\npactly as desired. The first method gives an\\nopen lacy effect, while the second shows a\\nstitch almost solid in appearance, so little space\\nis there between the stitches. Beginning at the\\nupper left corner, a\\nloose buttonhole stitch\\nis first made, and a\\nsecond buttonhole\\nstitch is worked side-\\nways over or around\\nthe first one. This is\\ndrawn tightly, and so\\nsecures the first stitch FlG 47 PETIT PolNT DE Venise\\nin place. A second loose buttonhole stitch is\\n19", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "worked and tied by a side stitch, and this is\\ncontinued to the end of the row. The thread\\nis then carried down the braid for a distance equal\\nto the width of the stitch. The second row is\\nthen worked in the same way as the first. This\\nis continued until the space is finished.\\nA pretty Point de Venise stitch is formed by a\\nunion of the double\\nnet stitch, or Point\\nde Sorrento, and\\nthe side stitch.\\nThe thread is fas-\\ntened at the upper\\nleft corner of the\\nFig. 48. Point de VeniseT* gpace to be filledj\\nand two net stitches set close together along the\\nedge of the upper\\nbraid. These are\\nbound together by\\na third buttonhole\\nstitch set sideways\\nacross the base of\\nthe two net stitches.\\nTo accomplish this,\\nafter the second net\\nstitch is in place,\\nFig. 49. Point de Venise.\\nFig. 50. Point de Venise.\\nthe needle is thrust in the loop at the left of the\\ntwo stitches, and\\ndrawn up closely\\nin the buttonhole\\nknot. Two more\\nnet stitches are\\nthen made in the\\nedge of the braid\\nat a distance from\\nthe first pair equal\\nto the space they\\noccupy, and with\\nthe connecting loop drawn sufficiently tight to\\nmake the rows of stitches lie in straight, parallel\\nlines. The side stitch is then placed in position\\nbeneath them, and the work continued to the end\\nof the row. The second row is like the first, except\\nthat in working from right to left the direction of\\nthe stitches is reversed.\\nVariations of this stitch are formed by placing\\ntwo side stitches beneath to guard the two net\\nstitches, or by working three net stitches with one\\nside stitch. Other variations of these useful\\nstitches will suggest themselves to the lace\\nmaker.\\nPoint d Espagne Spanish Point Stitches.\\nThe Spanish point stitches form a group of very\\ndistinctive difference from the other lace stitches.\\nInstead of the scalloped or looped appearance of\\nthe foregoing stitches, they produce a rectangular\\neffect of horizontal parallel lines connected at right\\nangles by the vertical twisted stitches. Their\\nappearance is very open and effective, and, besides\\nmaking very good filling-in stitches for the design\\nof the pattern, they give excellent results when\\nused to fill in backgrounds. As in all the filling\\nstitches, the lines must be perfectly even and reg-\\nular to obtain a satisfactory effect.\\nOpen Spanish Point.\\nThe long effect of the stitch is the result of the\\nextra twist given the thread by the method of\\nforming the stitch. The thread is fastened at the\\nupper left corner of the space and carried down\\nthe edge of the left-hand braid for the required\\ndistance, or the width of the stitch, which varies\\nin length according to the degree of fineness or\\ncoarseness of the\\nworking thread.\\nThe thumb of the\\nleft hand is placed\\nupon the thread as\\nnear the braid as is\\nconveniently prac-\\ntical. The thread\\nis then carried to Fig. 51. Open Spanish Point.\\nthe right of the thumb, and again placed under it\\nin such a way that the thumb holds down both\\nsides of the loop which is beneath it. The needle\\nis then thrust at the proper place through the\\nupper braid, over the nearer thread of the loop,\\nand under the farther thread. The thumb is kept\\non the loop until the working thread has been\\ndrawn nearly to the completion of the stitch.\\nThis is repeated to the end of the row, when the\\nwork is reversed and the second row of stitches\\nput in. This is accomplished by forming the\\nloop on the left side of the thumb, proceeding\\nas before. This method of working the stitch is\\nclearly illustrated in Fig. 51.\\nSpanish Point.\\nThe first row of this stitch is worked just as is\\nthe first row of the preceding one. At the com-\\npletion of the row the working thread is car-\\n20", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "=ttj =c\\nFig. 52. Spanish Point.\\nried back to the\\nleft side of the\\nspace by passing\\nthe needle once\\nthrough each loop\\nof the first row\\nand drawing the\\nthread up tight.\\nOnly one stitch\\ncan successfully be\\ntaken up by the needle at a time, as putting the\\nneedle through several loops and then drawing\\nthe thread is very apt to prdl the stitches out\\nof place, and so make them slant instead of\\nmaintaining the desired vertical position.\\nWhen the working thread has reached the left\\nside of the space, it is carried down the edge of\\nthe braid and the second row of loop stitches\\nworked.\\nSpanish Point.\\nA very pretty variation of this stitch is formed\\nby placing the stitches in groups. See Fig. 53.\\nThree Spanish point stitches are worked at\\nregular, somewhat close intervals, as in the\\nformer stitch. Space enough for two stitches\\nis omitted, and the first stitch of the next group\\nof three stitches is placed just where the sixth\\nstitch would have been worked had not the\\nstitches belonging to the fourth and fifth spaces\\nbeen omitted.\\nThese groups of\\nthree stitches are\\ncontinued across\\nthe space and the\\nworking thread\\nentered into the\\nluaid. The needle\\nis then thrust once\\nthrough each of the\\ntwo smaller loops\\nand twice through\\nthe longer loop that separates the groups of\\nstitches. When the thread has been brought\\nclear across the space, it is entered into the\\nbraid and carried by overcasting stitches the\\nnecessary distance along the edge of the braid.\\nThe second row of the groups of stitches is then\\nbegun. The first stitch of the first group is placed\\nin the loop between the first and second stitches of\\nthe row above. The second stitch is placed in the\\nPSsELnfifi\\nFig. 53. Spanish Poiht.\\nother or following loop, and the third or last stitch\\nof the group is placed on the long loop just beyond\\nthe third stitch of the row above. This is contin-\\nued across the space. The thread is carried back\\nto the left side of the space as before by thrusting\\nit through the loops of the last row.\\nEach succeeding row is begun by placing the\\nfirst stitch to the right of the first stitch of the\\npreceding row, and the result is a series of\\ndiagonal lines of stitches in groups of three,\\nextending from the upper left corner of the\\nspace toward the lower right corner.\\nAnother combination consists of a group of six\\nSpanish point stitches set close together, followed\\nby a space wide enough for four stitches. See\\nFig. 54. Another group of six stitches is worked\\nand followed by another space the size of the\\nformer one.\\nThis is con-\\ntinued until\\nthe braid at\\nthe opposite\\nside is\\nreached. The\\nthread is then\\ncarried in the\\nregular way\\nback to the left side of the space. A stitch is\\nworked in the loop following the second stitch of\\nthe first group of six stitches of the row above.\\nThis is followed by a stitch in each of the two\\nfollowing loops, and results in a trio of stitches\\ndirectly under the middle of the group of six\\nstitches above.\\nThree other stitches are worked in the open\\nspace or long loop, and these are followed by\\nanother trio of stitches worked under the middle\\nof the second group of six stitches above. This is\\ncontinued to the end of the space. The third row\\nis like the first and the fourth is like the second.\\nAnother arrangement of the Spanish stitches\\nis shown in Fig. 55. The first row consists of\\nstitches placed closely together at regular inter-\\nvals across the space. At the completion of each\\nrow the working thread is overcast back to the left\\nside of the space. The second row consists of\\nfour stitches placed in each of the first four loops\\nbetween the stitches of the preceding row. One\\nloop is omitted and another group of four stitches\\nworked. This is continued across the space. The\\nthird row consists of groups of three stitches\\nFig. 54. Spanish Point.\\n21", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "Fig. 55. Spanish Point.\\nplaced in the loops between the groups of four\\nstitches of the second row. The fourth row con-\\nsists of groups of\\ntwo stitches placed\\nbetween the\\ngroups of three of\\nthe preceding row,\\nand the fifth row\\nconsists of one\\nstitch between the\\ntwo of the fourth\\nrow and forms the\\npoint of the tri-\\nangle. The sixth row is a repetition of the first,\\nand a row of new points is begun. A long, narrow\\ndiamond design may be made by reversing the\\norder of the stitches at the beginning of the second\\nrow of points. To accomplish this a row of two\\nstitches would be worked on the row following\\nthe fifth row of single stitches. This would be\\nincreased to three stitches in the next row, and so\\ncontinued until the ninth row would be reached\\nand worked like the first.\\nSpanish Point Insertion.\\nLong, narrow spaces may be filled with Spanish\\npoint stitches. Row after row of these stitches\\nare worked along the length of the space, and may\\nbe so continued until the opposite edge of the\\nspace is reached,\\nwhen the returning\\nthread is used to at-\\ntach the last row of\\nstitches to the adj oin-\\ning braid. In the\\ncase of spaces of\\nirregular width,\\nwhen only one row\\nof stitches remains\\nto be worked at the\\nnarrow parts of the\\nspace, the pattern is turned around, and the last\\nrow worked from the edge of the second braid,\\nand each stitch, as the work proceeds, is attached\\nby overcasting stitches to the already finished\\nrows. Where the space is wider, longer stitches\\nare formed by increasing the number of the twist-\\nings of the working thread around the stitch, as\\nshown in the illustration. A little practice will\\nenable the worker to adapt this stitch to spaces of\\ndifferent shapes.\\nFig. 56. Spanish Point Insertion.\\nShell Insertion.\\nOne of the most beautiful of all the insertions is\\ncomposed of Spanish point stitches. The thread\\nis fastened at the upper left corner of the space,\\nor, in the case of an oval-shaped space, in the\\nupper point. It is then carried by overcasting\\nstitches down the left edge of the braid, a distance\\nequal to the length of the Spanish point stitches.\\nInto the middle of the braid, at the end of the\\nspace, four Spanish point stitches are w r orked,\\nentering the same point in\\nthe braid. The thread is\\nthen attached to the edge\\nof the braid at the right side\\nof the space exactly the\\nsame distance from the cor-\\nner as it is on the left side.\\nThe working thread is over-\\ncast once (or twice if the\\nspace be wide) over the\\nstraight thread connected\\nwith the braid at the right\\nside and once over each\\nsmall loop between the\\nSpanish point stitches, and,\\nfinally, once or twice over\\nthe thread connected with\\nthe braid at the left side.\\nIt is then carried down the side of the braid the\\nsame distance as before, and four Spanish point\\nstitches are placed between the second and third\\nstitches of the first row. The thread is again\\nfastened to the braid and overcast through the\\nstitches to the left side of the space, and the work\\nso continued until the space is filled.\\nSpanish Net Stitches.\\nThe various arrangements and groupings of the\\nSpanish net stitches form many beautiful and\\npractical n e t w or k s\\nWhere a very close ef-\\nfect is desired, good\\nresults may be obtained\\nby working row after\\nrow of close Spanish net\\nstitches as shown in\\nFig. 58. Beginning at\\nthe upper left corner\\nof the space, a row of\\nSpanish net stitches is\\nworked, with just space\\nFig. 57. Shell Insertion.\\nFig. 58. Spanish Net.\\n22", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "enough between them to provide room for the\\nstitches of the next row, one of which is placed\\non each tiny loop between the stitches of the pre-\\nceding row. The second row may be worked\\nfrom right to left, or, when a heavier effect is\\ndesired, the working thread may be carried to\\nthe left side by overcasting it once through each\\nloop.\\nDouble Spanish Net\\nIs the more open result obtained when the stitches\\nare arranged in pairs. Two close Spanish net\\nstitches are worked a space sufficient to accom-\\nmodate two more stitches is left open, and is\\nfollowed by a second pair of stitches similar to\\nthe first pair. In other words, the stitches are\\nexactly as in close Spanish net, except that every\\nother pair of\\nstitches is\\nomitted. In this\\nstitch, to obtain\\ngood results, it\\nis necessary on\\nreaching the end\\nof each row to\\novercast the\\nworking thread\\nthrough the loops\\nback to the left\\nside of the space.\\nThis maintains\\nthe parallel effect\\ndesired. The second row is exactly like the first,\\nexcept that the pairs of stitches are placed upon\\nthe long bar between the pairs of stitches of the\\npreceding row.\\nTriple Spanish Net.\\nStill another arrangement is called triple Spanish\\nnet, or treble Point d Espagne. This arrangement\\nis exactly\\nlike t h e\\nd o ub 1 e\\nSpanish\\nnet, except\\nthat the\\nstitches a re\\nin groups\\nof threes\\ninstead of\\nbeing in pairs as in the double Spanish stitch.\\nFig. 59. Double Spanish Net.\\nI j\\nL1L\\ni\\ni ii\\n1 1\\n1\\ni rfr\\nn ii\\nU\\nu\\n5X53J\\ni ii\\n1\\ni i /i\\nE\\ni ii it i\\n1\\nWAV\\nj H n r r r _\\nFig. 61. Spanish Net.\\nFig. 60. Triple Spanish Net.\\nGrouped Spanish Net.\\nThis illustration shows an arrangement of Span-\\nish net stitches in groups of six. Six close Spanish\\nnet stitches are worked from left to right across\\nthe space, with exactly the same space between\\nthe groups as they themselves occupy, so that the\\ngroups of six stitches of the next row, which will\\nbe worked on the bars between the spaces of the\\nfirst row, will exactly fill them, with no room to\\nspare, and no crowding. Great care must be taken\\nto keep the long loops or bars between the groups\\ndrawn sufficiently tight to keep the lower edge of\\ntlie stitches\\nexactly par-\\nallel with the\\nupper edge\\nall along the\\nlength of the\\nrow.\\nWhen the\\nfirst row is\\ncompleted the\\nthread is car-\\nried to the left\\nside of the\\nspace by overcasting it once through each little\\nloop between the stitches of each group, and several\\ntimes, carefully and smoothly, over the long loop\\nor bar between the groups. The second row of\\nstitches is then worked in groups of six over the\\nlong bars of the preceding row, and the thread\\nagain brought, by overcasting, to the left side.\\nThe third and succeeding rows are then worked\\nuntil the space is filled. When carefully done,\\nthe alternating filled and open spaces appear as\\nlittle oblongs regularly placed. This stitch may\\nbe worked from side to side without overcasting\\nthe thread back to the left side after each row, but\\ngreat care must be taken to get the loops or bars\\neven and of equal length.\\nSomewhat more elaborate is the network shown\\nin Fig. 62. The thread is fastened as usual at the\\nupper left corner of the space. Two close Spanish\\nnet stitches are worked. A space just equal to\\nthat required for five close Spanish net stitches is\\nleft without stitches then two more close Spanish\\nnet stitches are worked. This is continued to the\\nend of the row. The working thread is then\\novercast once through each of the small loops\\nbetween the pairs of Spanish net stitches, and\\nseveral times over the long loop or bar. The\\n23", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "Fig. 02. Spanish Net.\\nsecond row consists of groups of five Spanish net\\nstitches worked over each long loop or bar. The\\nthread is\\nagain overcast\\nto the left\\nside, and the\\nthird row be-\\ngun. This is\\nlike the first\\nrow, and is\\ncomposed of\\npairs of Span-\\nish net stitches\\nworked over\\nthe loops be-\\ntween the\\ngroups of five stitches of the second row. After\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2each row the thread is overcast to the left side of\\nthe space, unless it is preferred to work alternately\\nfrom left to right, and right to left. When finished,\\nthis network presents a broken check appearance,\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0of oblongs and little squares, that is very effective.\\nIn the Spanish Net stitch illustrated in Fig.\\n63 the thread is fastened in the corner and then\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0carried by overcasting stitches along the edge of\\nthe braid about a quarter of an inch below. A net\\nstitch is then placed in the upper braid about one-\\neighth of an inch from the comer. This is followed\\nby two other net\\nstitches set close\\ntogether. A sec-\\nond group of three\\nstitches is then\\nworked at a dis-\\nt a n c e from the\\nfirst group equal\\nto their own\\nwidth. Between\\nthese groups of\\nnet stitches the\\nthread is allowed\\nto fall in a long loop that reaches a very little\\nbelow the level of the thread at its starting-point.\\nThese loose loops and groups of three net stitches\\nare continued across the width of the space.\\nThe thread is then carried to the same distance\\nfrom the corner as it is at the opposite side.\\nIn every long loop of the first row three close\\nbuttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening\\nthread drawn quite tight in order to form a straight\\nline across the space. The thread is then carried\\nFig. 63. Spanish Net Stitch.\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0PrA aifeiij a gi\u00e2\u0080\u0094 1^^\\nFig. 64. Spanish Net Stitch.\\nalong the edge of the braid for the same distance\\nas before, and three buttonhole stitches are worked\\nbeneath the three of the former row, leaving the\\nlong loop between each group. These three\\nstitches are not placed in the loops between the\\nformer groups of\\nstitches, but the\\nneedle is thrust\\nbetween the two\\nthreads of each\\nbuttonhole stitch.\\nThis brings the\\nn e w r o w o f\\nstitches exactly\\nbeneath the other\\nthree above.\\nA variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 64, and\\nis obtained by working only two buttonhole stitches\\nin each group of this row, and putting them on the\\nloops between the buttonhole stitches of the former\\nrow.\\nVenetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch.\\nPoint de Sorrento. Line Stitch. The Vene-\\ntian stitches form one of the prettiest and most\\neffective groups of stitches used. They are always\\nless transparent than similar stitches without the\\nstraight line. When worked openly they present a\\ncobwebby, misty effect that is decidedly beautiful.\\nThe thread is fastened at the left-hand corner\\nof the space to be\\nfilled, and a row\\nof single net\\nstitches is worked\\nacross the space\\nat regular dis-\\ntances from each\\nother, and f a r\\nenough apart to\\nleave medium-sized loops between, as is shown in\\nthe illustration. When the end of the row is\\nreached, the thread is carried down the side of the\\nbraid, until it is on a line with the lower edge of\\nthe loops. It is then carried across the space in a\\nstraight line, and passed through the edge of the\\nbraid at the left side. Care must be taken to have\\nthe thread tight enough to admit of no sagging,\\nbut not tight enough to draw the braid one particle\\nfrom its place, and each successive line must be\\nexactly parallel with its predecessors.\\nThe second row of loops is then worked, and in\\nFig. 65. Line Stitch.\\n24", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "every stitch the needle is thrust through the loop\\nabove and back of the parallel thread, so that it is\\nalways held with the loop in the twist of the net\\nstitch, and forms a part of the body of the lace.\\nA very novel effect is produced by missing some\\nof the loops of the network, and in the next row\\nworking the same number of stitches in the loops\\nso formed. The result is a series of open spaces\\nin the close net work that is very odd. These\\nopen spaces may be placed at regular intervals over\\nthe entire network, or may be so spaced as to\\nform a design. In Fig. 66 the first row is a series\\nof close buttonhole stitches. The thread is then\\ncarried back to the opposite side, and a second row\\nof buttonhole stitches over it is begun. Four of\\nthese stitches are placed, and the next four omitted.\\nThe following six\\nFig. 66. Venetian Stitch.\\nare worked, and\\nthe next four\\nomitted. The next\\nfour are w o r k e d.\\nThe next row is\\nworked without\\nany omissions.\\nWhen the open\\nspaces are reached,\\nthe same number of stitches are worked in each as\\nwere omitted in the former row. In the following\\nrow the open space is left just between and below\\nthe two spaces of the upper row. Another com-\\nplete row follows. The sixth row is a repetition\\nof the second row.\\nDouble Venetian or Cobweb Stitch.\\nOne of the most beautiful and popular of all the\\nlace stitches is the double Venetian. This is made\\nin the same way\\nas the single Ve-\\nnetian, except\\nthat, instead of\\na single button-\\nhole s t i t c h in\\neach loop, two\\nare used. The\\ntwo stitches aid\\neach other in\\nkeeping the thread firmly in place, and make a\\nvery regular, substantial filling, that has a very\\nfine lace-like appearance. The loop between the\\nstitches is left loose and held in place with a pin\\nas shown in the illustration.\\nFig. 67. Cobweb Stitch.\\nThis stitch may also be made with three button-\\nhole stitches in each loop, as shown in Fig. 68.\\nWorked in\\nthis way the\\neffect is de-\\ncidedly close\\nand solid, un-\\nless the loops\\nare made suf-\\nficiently large\\nto allow ample\\nspace for the\\nthree stitches.\\n=lffi\\nESi\\nHt\\nh\\nTfW\\nII ii n ii ii ii\\nMTU II II lllfrr\\nEH\\nl|j_\\nL\\nII IIIIIIIIIIIHI\\n-1\\n1\\nFig. 68. Venetian Stitch.\\nDarned Figures on Venetian Background.\\nAfter a space has been filled with the plain,\\nclose Venetian stitch, it may be embellished in a\\nvariety of ways, and so made very effective and\\nrich in appearance. With a fine linen floss, or\\nother loosely twisted thread, pretty tufts or spots\\nmay be darned over two rows of the Venetian\\nbackground. When worked at regular intervals,\\nthey add greatly to the richness of the work.\\nStars and trefoils in bullion stitch, buttonholed\\nrings, and other fancy stitches may also be used.\\nWhen a very solid, cloth-like effect is desired,\\nthe Venetian stitch is worked with the net stitches\\nvery close together. Only sufficient room is left\\nfor the placing of\\nthe net stitch of\\nthe succeeding\\nrow. The straight\\ntli read aids also\\nin producing an\\nalmost solid effect.\\nThis compact\\nmethod of work-\\ning this stitch is\\nseen most frequently in Venetian lace, where it is\\nused as a filling for leaves, scrolls, and various\\nparts of the design to be thrown out most effect-\\nively by the open background of Raleigh bars, or\\nthe even regular net ground.\\nSpider or Wheel Stitch.\\nThis is a very rich and beautiful filling for large\\nspaces. Beginning at the upper left corner, a diag-\\nonal line is laid across the space at an angle of\\nforty-five degrees. The thread is then returned,\\nbut without twisting, to the first end of the diago-\\nnal line, so that the two threads form a double line\\niraraB\\nFig. 69. Venetian Stitch,\\n25", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "Fig. 70. Spider or Wheel Stitch.\\nlying close together but not crossing. At the se-\\nlected distance a second line parallel with the first\\nis laid across the space, and the thread as before\\nreturned to its beginning. This is repeated until\\nthe space is filled with rows of double parallel\\nlines at equal distances apart.\\nBeginning near the upper right corner, a diago-\\nnal line is laid across the first lines at an angle of\\nforty-five degrees, which makes it at right angles\\nwith the first se-\\nries. The thread,\\non its return to\\nthe starting place,\\nis passed three or\\nfour times around\\nthe threads of the\\ni n t e r s e c t i o ns,\\nwhich are not tied.\\nThis working\\nth read must al-\\nways pass under\\nthe double threads\\nof the completed\\nseries of parallel lines and over the single lines.\\nWhen the wheel is sufficiently large, the thread is\\npassed to the next intersection (which in case of\\nthe first row is the braid). A second thread is\\nthrown across the space parallel with the first, and\\nupon its return wheels are made at each intersec-\\ntion. This is continued until the space is filled.\\nPoint de Bruxelles (Brussels Point).\\nA very pretty arrangement of Brussels point\\nstitches is shown in Fig. 71. A row of net stitches\\nis worked in pairs\\nacross the space.\\nThe two stitches are\\nplaced nearly but\\nnot quite close to-\\ngether. A space\\nslightly greater than\\nthat occupied by\\nthese pairs of\\nstitches is left be-\\ntween each group.\\nThe second row consists of a single net stitch\\nplaced between the pairs of net stitches forming the\\ngroups of the first row. The third row is formed\\nby placing two net stitches in every loop formed\\nby the distance between the single net stitches of the\\nsecond row. The fourth row is like the second.\\nFig. 71. Point de Bruxelles.\\nFig. 72. Point de Bruxelles.\\nPoint de Bruxelles.\\nAnother variation of Brussels point is made by\\narranging the stitches in points or triangles. In\\nFig. 72, the first row consists of Brussels point\\nstitches in an even, regular row just far enough\\napart from each other to easily accommodate the\\nstitches of the next row. In the second row two\\nstitches (or one loop) are omitted, and one net stitch\\nworked in each of the next two loops. Two more\\nstitches are omitted and followed by two net\\nstitches, one\\nplaced in each\\nof the two loops\\nfollowing. This\\narrangement of\\ntwo stitches and\\nan omitted loop\\nis continued to\\nthe end of the\\nrow.\\nIn the third\\nrow one net stitch\\nis placed between each group of two net stitches\\nof the second row. This row should be worked\\njust loose enough to allow the long loops between\\nthe single net stitches to fall in very slightly\\ncurved lines. The fourth row is worked by plac-\\ning three net stitches on each of the long loops of\\nthe fourth row. This is the first row of the second\\nseries of triangles, and is followed by a row of net\\nstitches in pairs placed in the same way as in the\\nsecond row, that is, two net stitches, one in each\\nloop, and then the omission of one loop, followed by\\ntwo more net stitches. The next row is the row\\nof single net stitches that form the points of the\\ntriangle.\\nLarger triangles (see Fig. 73) are worked in the\\nsame way, except that the number of stitches in\\nthe triangles is increased, and consequently more\\nrows are re-\\nquired to com-\\nplete the fig-\\nures.\\nThe first\\nrow is the\\nsame continu-\\nous r o w of\\nsingle net\\nstitches as is\\nshown in the\\nsmaller tri-\\nFig. 73. Point de Bruxelles.\\n26", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "angles. In the second row four stitches are worked\\nand one loop omitted. In the third row three\\nstitches are placed in the three loops of the pre-\\nceding row, and so the work is continued till the\\npoints of the triangles are formed.\\nIn this stitch, the loops being longer, they must\\nbe kept tight or straight enough to prevent the\\nwork from becoming too full for the space it occu-\\npies, and so the group of five stitches that begin\\neach series or row of triangles may just fill the\\nlong loop prepared for them between the single\\nstitches of the last row.\\nMany very pleasing results may be obtained by\\nthe arranging and grouping in various ways of\\nBrussels net stitches. In Fig. 74 the first row con-\\nsists of a series of single net stitches set at regular\\ndistances apart. The second row is the same\\nuntil the middle loop is reached, when three net\\nstitches instead of one are worked. The single\\nnet stitches\\nare then con-\\ntinued to the\\nend of the\\nrow. In the\\nthird row a\\ngroup of\\nthree net\\ns t i t c h es is\\nplaced in the\\nfirst whole\\nloop at the\\nright of the\\ngroup of three in the second row. A single net\\nstitch is placed in the half loop at either side ad-\\njoining the group of three in the second row. In\\nthe next whole loop following, a second group of\\nthree stitches is worked. The fourth row is like\\nthe first. This brings the three net stitches ex-\\nactly below those of the second row, and completes\\nthe quadrilateral or diamond-shaped pattern of\\nthe design.\\nIn the fifth row two figures are to be begun, so\\nthe first group of three stitches is placed in the\\nthird whole loop preceding the close stitches of\\nthe row before, and another group of three is\\nplaced in the third whole loop following the close\\nstitches of the previous row. These two groups\\nof close stitches are the upper ends of the two\\nquadrilateral figures to be worked. In the next\\nrow the close net stitches are, as in the third row,\\nplaced in the first whole loop at the right and at\\nH II\\nJJ\\nL|0\\nII\\nII\\nlUL\\nTn\\n3\\ni\\nMo 1\\nl\\nn\\nr nP\\nFaBl\\nFir.. 74. POINT DE Bruxelles.\\nthe left of the group in the row above. The plac-\\ning of the groups in the seventh row just beneath\\nthose of the fifth row completes this group of\\nquadrilaterals.\\nPoint de Bruxelles, Pea Stitch.\\nOne of the prettiest of all arrangements of the\\nBrussels net stitches is the one commonly known\\nas the pea stitch, because of the open pea-shaped\\nspaces formed by the method of the grouping of\\nthe stitches. This stitch is excellent for the filling\\nin with networks of large spaces, and belongs to\\nthe design stitches, and not to the background\\nstitches.\\nA row of Brussels net stitches is worked across\\nthe upper edge of the space to be filled. They\\nshould be placed regularly at even distances apart,\\nand with room enough between them to place the\\nstitches of the next row. In the second row a\\nsingle net stitch is placed in the last loop of the\\nfirst row. Two loops, which include three but-\\ntonhole stitches, are\\nmissed, and then\\none net stitch is\\nworked in each of\\nthe next two loops.\\nTwo more loops are\\nmissed, and then\\ntwo more net\\nstitches are placed\\nin the next two\\nloops, and so the\\nwork is continued\\nuntil the end of the row is reached. The third\\nrow is the row requiring care lest a mistake be\\nmade. Three net stitches are worked on the long\\nloop of the previous row, and a single net stitch is\\nplaced between the two stitches between the long\\nloops. The fourth row is like the second, and the\\nfifth row is like the third. The long loop must be\\nsufficiently loose to allow the curved appearance\\nnecessary to make the large openings nearly round.\\nGreek Net Stitch.\\nGreek net stitch is excellent for filling in large\\nspaces, and is often used instead of spiders and\\ntwisted bars for the filling in of the background of\\nlace patterns. As the beauty of this stitch lies in\\nthe perfection with which it is made, absolute\\nregularity in the length and spacing of the stitches\\nis necessary. The thread is fastened at the upper\\nPoint de Bruxelles,\\nPea Stitch.\\n27", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "left corner of the space to be filled and carried\\ndown the side\\nof the braid a\\ndistance nearly\\ntwice the length\\nof a Spanish net\\nstitch. At the\\nsame distance\\nfrom the right\\nof the corner,\\nthe needle is\\nthrust into the\\nedge, of the Fig. 76. Greek Net Stitch.\\nbraid, and a single Spanish net stitch worked.\\nThe thread is left loose or slack enough to fall\\nin a rather long or decided loop equal in length\\nto two of the Spanish net stitches. These single\\nstitches are worked at regular distances across the\\nentire length of the space, and are lifted up or\\nshortened by a thrust of the needle in order to\\nlengthen the loops and keep the net stitches the\\nlength of one side of the hexagon under construc-\\ntion. Each loop forms two sides of the hexagon.\\nWhen the first row is completed, the thread is\\ncarried through the braid by a single stitch, and\\nis overcast twice over each loop, evenly, and with-\\nout drawing the loop out of its proper position,\\nuntil the opposite side of the space is reached.\\nThe thread is then overcast along the edge of the\\nbraid the required distance, and a second row of\\nsingle Spanish net stitches, like the first row, is\\nmade. The fourth row, like the second, consists\\nof two overcasting stitches in each loop of the\\nprevious row.\\nPoint Turque Turkish Point.\\nThe distinctive feature of Turkish point is the\\nway in which the threads are knotted. When a\\ndiamond-shaped mesh is desired, the straight\\nthread crossing the space may be omitted.\\nWhen there is danger of not getting the loops\\nexactly the same length, it is wise to thrust a pin\\nthrough the pattern at the proper place, and pass\\nthe thread to form the loop around it. The expe-\\nrienced worker will doubtless find this use of the\\npin unnecessary. The thread is fastened in the\\nupper left corner, and is carried down the edge of\\nthe braid a distance from the upper braid equal\\nto the required length of the loops. The first\\nstitch in the upper braid is placed a distance\\nfrom the corner just half the width of the re-\\nu\\nii ii ii i\\nJ\\nI III\\nfr (tWW r i\\nn\\nun\\nfX V-tf\\n1\\nnrti\\nliiu\\nFig. 77. Point Turque.\\nquired diamond. As the triangles formed by\\neach row of loops should be equilateral, each fol-\\nlowing stitch should be a distance from the pre-\\nceding one equal to the length of one-half, or one\\nside of the loop. To make the knot used in this\\nstitch, the thread is laid in a circular loop just\\nbelow the braid at the point of the proposed stitch.\\nThis loop is formed by passing the thread in a\\ncurve toward the right, extending close to the\\nupper braid, and passing around toward the left\\nand over the beginning of the loop. The needle is\\nthen thrust through the braid, under the upper\\ncurve of the loop,\\nover the lower\\ncurve, and drawn\\nup into a tight\\nknot. This\\nstitch, repeated\\nat regular inter-\\nvals between\\nloops of exactly\\nthe same length,\\nforms the first\\nrow. The thread\\nis then attached\\nto the braid at the right side, and carried down\\nits edge to a point exactly in line with the\\nmiddle of the loops. It is then carried across the\\nspace in a line parallel to the upper braid and\\nattached to it. The next row is exactly like the\\nfirst, the straight thread taking the place of the\\nupper braid, and the needle at each stitch being\\npassed under the loop above, under the straight\\nthread, under the upper curve of the laid loop,\\nover the lower curve of the loop, and drawn up\\ninto a tight knot.\\nTurkish Point.\\nAnother form of Turkish point is usually made\\nwithout the straight parallel lines thrown across\\nthe space.\\nThey may be\\nmade, if de-\\nsired. The\\nthread in this\\nillustration is\\nfastened i n\\nthe upper\\nright corner\\nof the space.\\nA short dis-\\nFig. 78. Point Turque. tance from\\n2S", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "the corner a plain buttonhole stitch is worked in the\\nupper braid. Close to this a Turkish point stitch\\nis worked. At the required distance from this pair\\nof stitches a second pair is placed, with the loop\\nbetween the two pairs long or slack. This is re-\\npeated to the end of the row. The thread is then\\ncarried down the side of the space, and the second\\nrow begun. This is like the first except that, being\\nbegun at the left side, the plain buttonhole stitch\\nis each time at the left of the Turkish point stitch.\\nThis is continued until the second and each suc-\\nceeding row is completed.\\nPoint de Filet. Net Groundwork Stitch.\\nPoint de Filet is an easy, speedy, and, at the\\nsame time, very beautiful stitch used for back-\\nground or groundwork, instead of Brussels net.\\nIt is really an imitation of netting. It is worked\\ndiagonally across the space to be filled. The\\nthread is fastened at the upper left corner of the\\nspace, and brought down the edge of the braid a\\ndistance equal to one side of the desired squares\\nof the network. It is then carried across the left\\ncorner of the\\nspace, and\\nfastened t o\\nthe upper\\nbraid at a\\npoint equally\\ndistant from\\nthe corner.\\nThe loop\\nmust be just\\ntwice the\\nlength of the\\nproposed\\nsquare, s o\\nthat when held in place by the knots of the next\\nrow it will form two sides of the corner square.\\nThe thread is then carried along the edge of the\\nupper braid the same distance as before, and is\\nfastened into the corner loop by means of a Turk-\\nish net stitch. The thread is then attached to the\\nbraid at the left the same distance as before from\\nthe adjoining fastening. These rows of diagonal\\nloops, secured by knots of Turkish net stitch, are\\ncontinued until the space is filled. The beauty of\\nthis stitch lies in its perfect accuracy. The verti-\\ncal lines must be parallel and the horizontal lines\\nmust be parallel. This necessitates the making of\\nall the loops of exactly the same length. To facil-\\nf.ii N ottt\\nBH\\nn ft 1\\nFir.. 79. Point de Filet.\\nFig. 80. Point de Filet.\\nitate this, pins may be stuck into the pattern at\\nthe right places, and the thread passed under them\\nwhen the loops are being made. The work may be\\nmade still easier, if, before the stitch is begun, the\\nspace to be filled is checked off on the pattern\\nwith pen or pencil. Upon the finished network\\nthe various stitches used in netting, and many\\nbeautiful lace stitches, may be worked.\\nPoint de Filet.\\nThis stitch shows another method of tying the\\nknot in point de filet. The thread is secured to\\nthe loops above it by a single Brussels net or\\nbuttonhole stitch.\\nigKViHHHrw u Mn m jAifwa^gj pi ie ne edle is then\\npassed under this\\nbuttonhole stitch or\\nknot, over the work-\\ning thread, under\\nit, and drawn up\\ntightly. This\\nmethod very closely\\nsimulates netting\\nand makes a good\\nbackground for other\\nstitches.\\nBruges Stitch.\\nThe Bruges lace stitch is well adapted for the\\nfilling of large spaces, and may be used with or\\nwithout the rosettes that give it its elaborate\\nappearance.\\nFasten the thread at the front left corner of the\\nspace, and overcast it along the edge of the nearer\\nbraid for the distance of one-fourth of an inch.\\nCarry the thread across the space to the back or\\nfarther braid, and fasten it with a buttonhole stitch\\njust one-fourth of\\nan inch from the\\nback left corner.\\nOvercast the\\nthread along the\\nedge of the braid\\nfor a distance of\\none sixteenth of\\nan inch. About\\nthree-sixteenths of\\nan inch from the back braid work a single button-\\nhole stitch over the long thread thrown across the\\nspace. Over the length of this buttonhole stitch\\nplace two other buttonhole stitches close together\\nand extending toward the front end of the space.\\nFir,. Rl. Bruges Stitch.\\n29", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "This is exactly as the shells in Point de Venise\\nare made, only two instead of four stitches are\\nused. This forms the knots that hold the\\nparallel threads in place. One-half inch nearer\\nthe front braid work another buttonhole stitch over\\nthe long thread and fill its length as before with\\ntwo buttonhole stitches. Repeat this at intervals\\nof half an inch until the nearer or front braid is\\nreached. Overcast the working thread along the\\nedge of the braid for half an inch, and carry it\\nacross the space in a line parallel with the first\\nthread. Fasten it with a single buttonhole stitch\\nto the edge of the braid. If the thread is kept\\nparallel, this point of attachment will be exactly\\nhalf an inch from the first thread. Again carry\\nthe thread one-sixteenth of an inch to the right of\\nthe thread just fastened. At spaces exactly in line,\\nfrom right to left, with the knots of the first row,\\nmake a new series of knots exactly one-half inch\\napart. Continue this until the entire space is filled\\nwith parallel lines from front to back of the space\\nand at even distances apart, and whose knots form\\nparallel rows from right to left across the space.\\nThe work is now ready for the second series of\\nparallel lines, which must intersect the first series\\nexactly half way between the knots of the first\\nrows. Turn the work around so that the finished\\nlines extend from right to left instead of from\\nfront to back. This places the working of the\\nsecond lines in the same position for working as\\nwere the first lines. Carry the working thread\\nby overcasting stitches along the edge of the braids\\nuntil a thread carried across the space wdl inter-\\nsect the parallel lines almost half-way between the\\nfirst two rows of knots. Fasten this thread with a\\nbuttonhole stitch and overcast it one-sixteenth of\\nan inch along the edge of the braid. Work a but-\\ntonhole stitch over this long thread just as far\\nfrom the intersection of the two lines as are the\\nknots of the first lines. Over this buttonhole stitch\\nwork the two close buttonhole stitches that form\\nthe knot. Work another buttonhole stitch over the\\nlong thread exactly at the point of intersection.\\nWork the two stitches that are to form the knot\\nover both the buttonhole stitch and the threads of\\nthe finished line./ Draw these stitches tight. This\\nknot holds the two sets of lines together. At the\\nproper place on the long thread (which is the same\\ndistance from the intersection as the other three\\nknots surrounding it, and is also half-way between\\nthe first and second parallel lines already finished\\nwork another knot. Continue in this way until this\\nline and the others which are necessary to fill the\\nspace are completed. This results in the open\\nBruges lace stitch, which is very effective when an\\nopen network is desired.\\nWhen it is decided to have the rosettes at the\\nintersections, they are worked as each intersection\\nis reached. The work is exactly as above until\\nthe knot which ties the intersecting threads has\\nbeen worked (see Fig. 81). Around this knot the\\nworking thread is woven two or three times, by\\npassing it over and under the surrounding threads\\nin the manner of making a spider, as shown by the\\nposition of the needle in Fig. 81. This weaving\\nbeing completed, the work of making the knots\\nthat form the rosette is begun at the space to\\nthe left of the long thread. In this right angle\\nbetween the front aud left-hand threads two but-\\ntonhole stitches, not too tight, are worked over the\\nlast threads of the spider. The needle is then\\nthrust through the spider from beneath the work\\nat the next angle, between the left hand and\\nback threads, and two more buttonhole stitches are\\nworked. This is repeated in the third and fourth\\nangles. The needle is then thrust through the\\nspider from beneath near the long thread, and the\\nrosette is completed. The knot just between this\\nand the next point of intersection is worked, and\\nthen the knot that ties the next crossing threads\\nis made and the next rosette begun. This is con-\\ntinued until a rosette adorns each intersection\\nthroughout the space. A variation of this stitch\\nmay be obtained by surrounding the centre with\\na spider, but omitting the outer knots.\\nPoint d Angleterre.\\nThis ground network\\nspaces. The thread is\\nFig. 82. Point d Angleterke.\\ning the working thread\\nis excellent for large\\nfastened at the upper\\nleft corner, and\\ncarried along the\\nupper braid the\\nrequired distances\\nfor one check or\\nsquare of the net-\\nwork. It is then\\ncarried across the\\nspace to the oppo-\\nsite side and en-\\ntered into the\\nbraid, always keep-\\nperfectly parallel to\\n30", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "the edge of the left braid. The working thread\\nis then overcast along the edge of the front braid,\\na distance equal to the distance between the first\\nthread and the left braid. It is then carried to\\nthe upper or back braid and attached, forming\\nanother parallel line. These threads are contin-\\nued across the space, all equally distant, and all\\nparallel. Similar parallel threads are then laid\\nacross the space from right to left, and form a\\nnetwork of little perfect squares. The thread is\\nnext carried in diagonal lines from the end of\\neach alternate parallel thread crossing the squares\\nfrom right to left, and from left to right, and\\ncompleting the network.\\nThe thread is fastened in the upper left corner\\nand carried along the left braid to the first hori-\\nzontal parallel threads. This is overcast, and\\nwhen the first vertical parallel thread is reached,\\nthe needle is passed back of both threads, thus\\nsecuring the back one in the twist. At the first\\nmeeting of the four lines a half wheel is woven in\\nan over and under darning stitch. The thread is\\nthen overcast in the same way to the next meeting\\nof four threads, and a second half spider or wheel\\nis worked. This is continued across this and each\\nsucceeding row until the space is filled.\\nPoint d Angleterre Rosette Stitch.\\nThe thread is fastened at the upper left corner\\nand overcast along the edge of the upper braid the\\nrequired distance.\\nIt is then carried\\nacross the space\\nto the lower or\\nfront edge of the\\nbraid and entered\\ninto it, making\\nthe thread so\\nstretched across\\nthe space parallel\\nwith the left\\nbraid. The work-\\ning thread is then\\novercast along the\\nedge of the front braid a distance equal to that\\nbetween the left braid and the first placed thread.\\nA second thread parallel to the first is then laid\\nacross the space, and is followed by other equally\\ndistant parallel threads until the right side of the\\nspace is reached. Similar parallel threads are then\\ncarried across the braid from right to left, over\\nII J]\\n1 11 11 II II II II II II\\nRll\\nNil\\n^n. _ _\\nj_.ll. j.\\nFig. 83. Point d Angleterre.\\nand under, and at right angles to the first series.\\nThe thread is then fastened to the left braid at the\\nmiddle of the second square from the upper left\\ncorner. It is carried across the space diagonally\\nto the upper right corner of the second upper\\nsquare from the upper left corner, and crosses\\nat the meeting of the horizontal and vertical lines.\\nIt is then carried one square to the right and again\\nbrought across the space in a line parallel with the\\nfirst diagonal line, These parallel diagonal lines\\nare continued across the entire space. The thread\\nis then fastened to the right braid at the lower\\ncorner of the second square from the back right\\ncorner and carried to the upper left corner of that\\nsmall square, where it makes the seventh ray di-\\nverging from that point. These threads are not\\ntied together, but the needle is passed over and\\nunder the seven rays in several circles to form a\\nwheel. Then the needle is passed from under that\\nside of the wheel having the seventh ray and\\nthrough the last circle of the thread of the wheel\\nat the opposite side. This supplies the eighth ray\\nby the fastening of the thread into the braid at\\nthe upper left corner of the little square thus\\nentered. The thread is overcast along the braid\\nto the upper right corner of the square to the left,\\ncrossed diagonally to its lower right corner, and\\na second wheel made. This diagonal line is con-\\ntinued across to the right side of the space and\\nanother wheel made at the next intersection of\\nthreads. The making of these diagonal lines and\\nthe wheels at the intersections is continued until\\nthe network is filled.\\nHour-glasses.\\nFigure 84 shows still another arrangement of\\ndarning over the network described in No. 82. In\\nthis pattern two\\nfans form little\\nvertical h o u r-\\nglasses. The\\nthread is fastened\\nto the upper left\\ncorner, carried\\nalong the left\\nbraid, and over-\\ncast along the\\nfirst horizontal\\nparallel line to\\nthe first meeting\\nof the parallel and diagonal lines of the network.\\nI\\nl.v .*rt\u00c2\u00bb\u00c2\u00bb M\\nFig. 84. Hour-glasses.", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "If preferred, these connecting threads may\\nbe fastened at their point of meeting by a single but-\\ntonhole stitch. The three upper threads are then\\ncovered with a woven fan and the thread carried\\nback through the weaving to the centre. The lower\\nthree threads are then covered with a second woven\\nfan and the thread again carried to the centre.\\nThe overcasting of the horizontal parallel thread\\nis then continued till the location for the next pair\\nof fans is reached. This is continued until all the\\ndouble fans are worked.\\nNet with Rosette Stitch.\\nFor thisexceedingly beautiful net work the Pe-\\nnelope canvas, used for tapestry work, is imitated.\\nThe thread is\\nfastened at the\\nupper right\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2corner of the\\nspace and over-\\ncast along the\\nU\u00c2\u00bbrl ILssi ^irkxU\\nFig. 85. Net with Rosette Stitch.\\nedge of the\\nright braid a\\ndistance equal\\nto one side of\\nthe required\\nlarger square of\\nthe network. It is then carried to the left braid\\nin a line parallel to the upper braid, attached to\\nthe braid, and overcast one stitch along its edge.\\nIt is again carried to the right side in a line\\nparallel to the former one, and then overcast along\\nthe braid the length of the larger square. A\\nsecond pair of parallel threads is passed across\\nthe space, and this is continued until the entire\\nspace is covered at regular intervals with these\\npairs of parallel threads.\\nThe thread is then overcast along the front\\nedge of the braid a distance equal to one side of\\nthe larger squares and woven under the lower and\\nover the upper thread of each pair of horizontal\\nlines. It is then overcast one stitch along the\\nedge of the braid and returned to the lower edge\\nby passing under the upj^er and over the lower\\nthreads. This alternates the weaving.\\nUpon this pretty network the rings are made.\\nThe thread is woven several times around the\\nsmall squares and closely buttonholed. The\\nthicker the foundation of circling threads and\\nthe more raised the buttonholing upon it, the more\\neffective will be the result. At the completion of\\nFig. 86. Gkeek Crosses.\\neach buttonholed ring the thread is securely fas-\\ntened and then cut. This makes each little ring\\nindependent of the others.\\nGreek Crosses.\\nThe network for this filling stitch of little Greek\\ncrosses is the same as for the half spiders or wheels.\\nWhen the net-\\nwork is com-\\npleted, the thread\\nis fastened at the\\nupper left corner\\nand overcast to\\nthe first horizon-\\ntal parallel line.\\nThis thread is\\novercast to the\\nfirst meeting of\\nfour threads, se-\\ncuring the verti-\\ncal thread in the overcasting. From the centre\\nof this group of four threads, or eight radii, the\\nthread is passed over and under the middle and\\nleft upper threads, forming a little fan. The needle\\nis then passed through this fan to the centre, and\\na second fan woven over the middle and lower left\\nthreads. The third fan covers the middle and\\nright front threads, and the fourth covers the re-\\nmaining two threads. From the outer end of this\\nlast fan the thread is overcast to the next group\\nof threads to be woven. A Greek cross of fans is\\nthus made at every intersection of the vertical and\\ndiagonal lines of the network.\\nPoint de Reprise.\\nThe network for Point de Reprise may be pre-\\npared in either of two ways. In the first way\\nhorizontal par a 1 1 e 1\\nlines are carried\\nacross the space at\\neven distances apart.\\nThe thread is then\\nattached to the left\\nbraid at the left end\\nof the upper line, and\\nis then entered into\\nthe upper braid at\\none half that dis-\\ntance from the upper\\nleft corner. It is\\nthen passed under the upper parallel line and\\nagain entered into the upper braid at a distance\\nw\\nt^=F4i=^W=^ks^\\nni|\u00c2\u00a7;i\u00c2\u00a7j\u00c2\u00a7i;ijjih\\nFig. 87. Point de Reprise.\\n32", "height": "2756", "width": "1937", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "equal to the distance between the upper thread\\nand the upper braid. This is continued across the\\nspace and makes equilateral enclosures. At the\\ncompletion of the first row of enclosed triangles\\nthe thread is at the right end of the upper line.\\nIt is then passed under the second line and back to\\nthe first, passing under both the first thread and\\nthe thread looped around it at that point. It is\\nagain passed under the second thread and back to\\nthe first, forming the equilateral triangles of the\\nsecond row. This is continued row by row until\\nthe entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network.\\nThe second method of preparing this network is\\nsimpler. The parallel horizontal lines are laid as\\nbefore. A series of diagonal parallel lines the same\\ndistance apart as are the horizontal lines are then\\nwoven over and under the first lines, across the\\nspace from the upper and right sides to the left\\nand lower sides, crossing the horizontal lines at an\\nangle of sixty degrees. A second series of diago-\\nnal lines is then woven in the same way and at\\nthe same angle from the upper and left sides to the\\nright and lower sides. This completes the network\\nof equilateral triangles.\\nThese triangles are then covered with cones of\\ndarning. The thread is attached to the point or\\napex of the triangle to be covered, and the thread\\nis passed over and under the foundation threads\\nforming the sides of the triangle until the space\\nis filled. It is then passed under the threads at\\nthe corner (which form the apex of another tri-\\nangle) and carried down the side of the adjoining\\ntriangle to its apex. The darning of this triangle\\nis accomplished and the work continued until the\\nremaining triangles are covered.\\nAnother method of covering the triangles con-\\nsists of the use of buttonhole stitches. The thread\\nis attached to the apex of the triangle. Two close\\nbuttonhole stitches are worked over the right\\nfoundation thread of the triangle. Then two are\\nworked over the left side. In this way the work-\\ning thread passes from one side to the other of\\nthe triangle after every second buttonhole stitch\\nuntil the triangle is filled.\\nCombination and Miscellaneous Stitches.\\nCombination Stitches.\\nIGURE 88 illustrates several stitches\\napplied to different shaped spaces. In\\nthe leaf-shaped space marked A the\\nstitch is worked as folows:\\nFasten the thread at the upper right corner\\nof the braid. Make a loop across the space and\\nfasten the thread to the left side. Overcast one\\nstitch along the edge of the braid and work seven\\nbuttonhole stitches into the loop. Attach the\\nthread to the braid again and overcast two stitches\\nalong the edge. The third and fourth rows are\\nBrussels net stitches. In the third row the stitch\\nis taken in the fourth stitch of the group of seven.\\nThe fifth row is like the second.\\nFor Fig. 88 B Fasten the thread to the braid at\\nthe upper left corner. Carry the thread across\\nto right side of the space, leaving the thread loose\\nso as to form a loop. Overcast one stitch along\\nthe edge of the braid and stretch the thread back\\nfrom right to left, keeping it perfectly straight.\\nOvercast two stitches down on the braid, and\\nwork four buttonhole stitches into the loop and\\nover the straight thread. The fourth sow is an\\nopen network where the buttonhole stitches are\\n33\\ntaken between each group of the\\nThe fifth row is Brussels net\\nsixth row is like the third.\\nfour close\\nstitches,\\nstitches.\\nand the\\nBullion Stitch Used for Background.", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "Point de Valenciennes.\\nPoint de Valenciennes is another form of dia-\\nmond stitch (see Fig. 88 C The thread is fastened\\nat the upper left corner of the space and carried\\ndown the braid at the left side of the space, a dis-\\ntance slightly more than one buttonhole stitch.\\nNear, but not close to, the corner a row of eight\\nclose buttonhole stitches is worked into the upper\\nbraid. A space equal to three buttonhole stitches\\nis omitted and a second row of eight stitches is\\nworked. This is continued across the space.\\nThe thread is again carried down the edge of\\nthe braid at the right, and a buttonhole stitch is\\nplaced in the loop between the second and third\\nstitches from the right of the first row. This is\\nfollowed by a single close buttonhole stitch in\\neach of the next four loops of the group of eight\\nstitches. The result is five close buttonhole stitches\\nworked in the middle loops of the row above, and\\nleaves the two end stitches at either side to ex-\\ntend beyond the five below. Into the loop be-\\ntween the groups of eight two close buttonhole\\nstitches are worked. Five more stitches are placed\\nbelow the next group of eight, and are followed by\\nthe two stitches on the long loop between the groups.\\nThis is continued across the\\nspace. The third row consists of\\ntwo buttonhole stitches placed\\nin the two middle loops of each\\ngroup of five stitches of the\\nrow above, and five stitches\\nplaced below the groups of two\\nstitches. These groups of five\\nare formed by placing two close\\nbuttonhole stitches close to the\\nfirst stitch of the group of two\\nabove. One stitch is placed\\non the loop between them, and\\ntwo close to the second of the\\ntwo stitches. The fourth row\\nconsists of groups of eight\\nstitches placed below the groups\\nof five of the row above.\\nThe fifth row is like the sec-\\nond, and the sixth is like the\\nthird. This arrangement of\\nstitches forms broad, flattened\\ndiamonds, and is suitable for\\nfilling large spaces. Another\\nvariation of this stitch is shown\\nin Fig. 89.\\nCombination of Brussels Net.\\nThe stitches shown in Fig. 88 D may be used for\\nwide or narrow spaces by increasing or decreasing\\nthe length of the long loops, or, in filling large\\nspaces, the width may consist of alternate rows\\nof the short and the long loops.\\nThe thread is fastened in the upper left corner,\\nand one buttonhole stitch is worked into the upper\\nbraid one-third of the distance across the space.\\nTwo close buttonhole stitches are worked in the\\nmiddle of the space. This is followed by a second\\nsingle buttonhole stitch equally distant from the\\nfirst, The thread is then carried to the braid and\\nfastened. The second row is worked from right\\nto left, and consists of six or more close button-\\nhole stitches worked on the long loop, completely\\nfilling it. Two close buttonhole stitches are\\nworked on each of the small loops, and the second\\nlong loop is covered with six close buttonhole\\nstitches. The third row is like the first, and the\\nfourth row is like the second.\\nThe stitch illustrated in Fig. 88 E, like the pre-\\nceding one, is suitable for broad or narrow spaces,\\nand is used for wide spaces by repeating the stripes*\\nof the pattern.\\nCOHBlSiATl\\n34", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "The thread is fastened at the upper left corner\\nand carried down the side of the braid one stitch.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2A short distance from the corner a single stitch is\\nworked into the upper braid. Space for two\\nstitches is omitted, and a second single stitch is\\nworked. These stitches should occupy one-third\\nthe distance across the space. At the end of the\\nsecond third of the space a single buttonhole stitch\\nis worked, making a long loop extending across\\nthe middle of the space. Space for two stitches\\nis then omitted, and a second single buttonhole\\nstitch is worked. The thread is then fastened\\ninto the braid at the right and carried down one\\nstitch. A single buttonhole stitch is worked into\\nthe short loop between the two buttonhole stitches\\nabove. Six or more stitches are then placed upon\\nthe long loop, filling it. A single stitch is then\\nworked in the left short loop, and the thread\\nattached to the braid. The third row is like the\\nfirst, and the fourth is like the second.\\nThe stitch used in Fig. 88 F is the Petit Point\\nde Venise and is described on page 19.\\nFans.\\nWoven fans make a very effective filling (see\\nFig. 88). They may be made singly, in pairs, or in\\ntrios. They may be built like hour-glasses or like\\nGreek crosses. They may have few or many\\nfoundation threads. They may have graduated\\npoints or they may have a flat end.\\nTo make a trio of fans as illustrated, the thread\\nis fastened at the point of the braid selected for\\nthe base of the fans. It is then carried to a point\\non the opposite side of the space a distance to\\nthe left of the\\ncentre just half\\nthe width of\\nthe middle sec-\\ntion or division\\nof the fan.\\nThe thread is\\npassed through\\nthe braid and\\novercast back\\nto the base of\\nthe design, al-\\nways over-\\ncasting from\\nthe worker. To do this the pattern is so held\\nthat the base is the farthest point in the space\\nfrom the worker. This way of overcasting ensures\\nCombination of Fans with Other\\nStitches.\\na better twist to the threads. When the first thread\\nis brought back to the base it is entered into the braid\\nat the same point from whence it started. It is again\\ncarried across the space and entered into the braid\\nat a point j ust as far from the centre to the right\\nas the first one was to the left. This is overcast\\nto the base. The third thread is entered into the\\nbraid a sufficient distance to the left of the left\\nthread already in place and overcast to the base.\\nThe opposite right thread is then placed in the\\nsame way. The remaining distance at the left of\\nthe threads already in place is now filled with four\\nsimilar threads, all overcast, equally distant and\\nmeeting at the base. The right side of the space\\nis filled in the same way. The weaving of the\\nfans should be begun with a long thread and at\\nthe base. The middle fan may be woven first. The\\nthread is carried over and under the four threads\\nalternately in a weaving or darning stitch and must\\nbe drawn just tight enough to keep the twisted\\nthreads in place, to preserve a sharp point at the\\nbase and an even edge at the sides of the fan.\\nWhen it is desired to begin the pointing, the two\\nouter threads are dropped and the weaving is con-\\ntinued over and under the two middle threads.\\nWhen the weaving is completed the needle is\\npassed from the point to the base of the fan\\nthrough its centre, or between the threads of the\\nweaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now\\nin place to begin the weaving of the second fan.\\nThis and the third one are then woven.\\nWoven Rays.\\nWoven rays form another showy effect (see\\nFig. 88). The base is naturally the converging part\\nof the space, and the outer edge of the group of\\nrays is the side of the larger curve. Each ray has\\nits own base and these bases are located close\\ntogether, so that each, though a part of the whole\\ncentral effect, is complete in itself.\\nThe desired positions of the outer ends of the\\nrays are selected at equal distances from each other,\\nand three threads for each ray, diverging from its\\nown base, are put in position and overcast. These\\nare covered with the over and under darning or\\nweaving stitch throughout their entire length.\\nAll weaving must begin at the narrowest point in\\nthe design to be woven. The thread may be at-\\ntached to the braid at the completion of each ray\\nor may be carried back through the interior of the\\nfirst ray and overcast to the base of the next.\\n35", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "Diamond Stitch.\\nWhen a rich, showy effect is desired, there is no\\nstitch more appropriate for large spaces than the\\ndiamond stitch. The beauty of this stitch lies in\\nits regularity, and in keeping the diamonds suffi-\\nciently close together and in straight rows. The\\nthread is fastened in the upper left corner and\\nbrought down the side of the braid the distance of\\none buttonhole stitch.\\nAt a short distance from\\nthe corner, equal to the\\nspace necessary for two\\nstitches, a group of four\\nbuttonhole stitches is\\nworked. These stitches\\nmust be just far enough\\napart to admit, on the\\nsecond row, one similar\\nstitch on each of the\\nloops between them.\\nThese four stitches being 91 1\\ncompleted, a space equal\\nto three stitches is\\nomitted, and one button-\\nhole stitch worked. An-\\nother space of equal 92 1\\nlength is followed by a\\nsecond group of four\\nstitches. These groups\\nof four Stitches and Fig. 89, Diamond. Figs. 90 and 91,\\nPoint de Sorkento. Fig. 92,\\nsingle stitches are con- bullion insertion, fig. 93,\\ntinued across the Space Knotted Russian Stitch.\\nto be filled, great care\\nbeing taken to keep the spaces between them of\\nequal length. The first row being completed, the\\nthread is carried down the edge of the braid one\\nstitch.\\nIn the second row begins the alternate increas-\\ning and decreasing of the diamonds started by the\\nfirst row. One buttonhole stitch is placed on the\\nlong loop, close to the right side of the single stitch\\nof the first row. This is followed by a second\\nsingle stitch placed close to the left side of this\\nsame single stitch of the first row. Into each of\\nthe three loops between the four stitches of the\\nnext group of the first row, a single buttonhole\\nstitch is worked. In working the first of these\\nthree stitches care must be taken to make the loop\\nbetween this and the group of two stitches already\\nmade of the same length as the loops between the\\ngroups of the first row. All the long loops through-\\nout the work must be of the same length. At each\\nside of the next single stitch of the first row a\\nsingle buttonhole stitch is worked, both stitches\\nbeing kept close together. Into the loops between\\nthe following group of four stitches three button-\\nhole stitches are worked. This is continued to\\nthe end of the row. The third row also consists\\nof groups of two and three stitches. Into the loops\\nbetween the stitches of the groups of three in the\\nsecond row two buttonhole stitches are worked,\\nand this is followed by three stitches below the\\nfollowing group of two. The first stitch is placed\\non the long loop close to the left of the two stitches\\nthe second stitch is placed between them, and the\\nthird on the long loop close to the right of the two\\nstitches. Two stitches placed one in each of the\\ntwo loops of the next group are followed by three\\nstitches below the next group of two. This is con-\\ntinued to the end of the row.\\nThe fourth row, like the first, consists of groups\\nof four and single stitches. Below the group of\\nthree stitches, at the left of the space, four stitches\\nare worked, care as usual being taken to keep the\\nfirst and last of this group, which are worked on\\nthe long loops, close to the other two. This group\\nof four stitches is followed by a single stitch be-\\ntween the two stitches of the row above, and com-\\npletes the half diamond begun at the first row.\\nThe next group of four stitches follows, and so the\\nwork is continued to the end of the row.\\nThe fifth row begins the new diamonds below\\nthe half diamonds begun at the first row, and di-\\nminishes the diamonds begun by the single stitch\\nof the first row. Two stitches are placed below\\nthe single stitch, and are followed by a group of\\nthree stitches below the group of four of the pre-\\nceding row. This is continued to the end of the\\nrow, and is followed by the sixth row, which is\\ncomposed of groups of three stitches below the\\ngroups of two stitches of the preceding row, and\\ngroups of two stitches below the groups of three.\\nThe seventh row is like the first, and completes\\nthe alternate whole diamonds begun by the first\\nrow.\\nPoint de Sorrento.\\nPoint de Sorrento is very similar in appearance\\nto the double net stitch. The method of placing\\nthe stitches makes it exceedingly firm, and, where\\nan open network is desired, this stitch is very\\npractical and beautiful. The thread is fastened\\nat the upper left corner of the space, and at equal", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "distances two buttonhole stitches are worked close\\ntogether. The first is a plain buttonhole stitch\\nworked into the edge of the braid the second\\nstitch is placed close to the first, and is passed\\nthrough it. To do this, the needle is thrust both\\nthrough the braid and betweeu the two threads\\nthat form the sides of the loop of the first stitch,\\nand is then drawn up close in a buttonhole stitch.\\nAt the proper distance from this pair of stitches\\na second buttonhole stitch is worked in the edge\\nof the braid. Into the loop of this stitch a second\\nibuttonhole stitch is made as before, and so the\\nwork is continued to the end of the row. The\\nrows are all alike, each pair of buttonhole stitches\\nbeing placed on the loop between the two pairs of\\nstitches above, and each pair of stitches is inter-\\nlocked.\\nPoint de Sorrento.\\nThis stitch should not be worked too closely.\\nThe more open it is, the more showy the effect.\\nIn making buttonhole stitches from right to left,\\nthe thread must be thrown or carried around into\\nposition for each stitch, while, when working from\\nleft to right, the thread naturally falls into posi-\\ntion, and the extra movement of placing it is\\nobviated. Hence, it is always well when begin-\\nning a stitch, to so regulate your work that the\\nrows having most buttonhole stitches may be\\nworked from left to right. Because of this it is\\naest to fasten the thread for this arrangement of\\nPoint de Sorrento at the upper right corner of the\\nspace. At equal distances, and somewhat far\\nipart, groups of two buttonhole stitches, placed\\nrather close together, are worked across the space.\\nThe thread is then carried down the edge of the\\nDraid the length of a buttonhole stitch, and the\\nsecond row of stitches begun. On the loop be-\\n;ween each pair of loose buttonhole stitches of the\\nirst row a group of three close buttonhol e stitches\\ns worked. The third row is like the first, that is,\\n;wo rather loose buttonhole stitches are worked on\\nsach of the long loops between the groups of\\n;hree stitches of the second row. The fourth row\\n8 like the second.\\n3ollion Insertion.\\nWhen a heavy, showy insertion is desired, Fig.\\n)2 is excellent. The thread is fastened at the\\nlpper right corner and carried down the edge of\\nhe braid a distance equal to the length of a Span-\\nsh net stitch. Into the upper braid, at the middle\\nof the space, a single Spanish net stitch is worked,\\nand the thread attached to the edge of the braid\\nat the left side, a distance from the corner equal\\nto the distance the thread at the right side is from\\nthe right corner. The thread is then carried one\\nstitch down the edge of the braid, and on the\\nleft long loop three close buttonhole stitches are\\nworked. Through the loop between the second\\nand third stitch, the needle is thrust for about half\\nits length, and the thread is wound around its\\npoint ten or twelve times. The thumb is then\\nplaced upon the coil of threads, the needle drawn\\nthrough, and the thread pulled up so closely that\\nthe coil assumes a circular shape.\\nThis is followed by three more buttonhole\\nstitches on the long loop. The long loop at the\\nright of the Spanish net stitch is covered exactly\\nas was the left loop. The three close buttonhole\\nstitches are followed by the picot in bullion stitch\\nand completed by three more close buttonhole\\nstitches. The third row, like the first, consists of\\na single Spanish net stitch placed on the loop in\\nthe middle of the second row. The fourth row\\nis like the second. When the space to be filled\\nis rather wide, a greater number of buttonhole\\nstitches will be necessary on either side of the.\\nbullion stitch.\\nKnotted Russian Stitch.\\nKnotted Russian stitch is a very neat, easily\\nmade, and effective insertion. The space is first\\nfilled with plain or twisted Riissian stitches made\\nat even distances apart, and somewhat close-\\ntogether. When the space is curved, care must\\nbe taken to regularly place the stitches on the\\nouter curve at an equally greater distance apart..\\nThis ensures regularity in the result. When the\\nspace is entirely filled, the thread is passed to\\nthe middle of one end of the space, and a close\\nbuttonhole knot is tied tightly on each single\\ntli read of the insertion as it passes the middle\\nof the space.\\nThe stitch is especially useful for filling leaf or\\nother long narrow space.\\nPoint Lace proper was not produced to any ex-\\ntent before 1620, whatever may be said to the con-\\ntrary. Reticella work of the seventeenth century\\nis the nearest approach to it, but still retains\\ntraces of plaiting and Genoa stitch, which were\\nnever employed in real point. Point proper became\\nthe dress lace par excellence under Louis XIV.\\n37", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "Combination Stitches.\\nAnother pretty network is made by a combina-\\ntion of Brussels net and Spanish net stitches, as\\nshown in Fig. 94. The thread is fastened at the\\nupper right corner of the space to be filled, and a\\nrow of Brussels net stitches worked at regular in-\\ntervals. The thread is then fastened to the edge\\nof the braid at the left of the space, and overcast\\nalong its edge a distance equal to the length of\\nthe Spanish net stitches. Into the first loop of\\nthe Brussels net stitches of the first row a single\\nBrussels net stitch is worked. Into the second\\nloop three Spanish net stitches are placed. The\\nthird loop holds one Brussels net stitch, and into\\nthe fourth are worked three Spanish net stitches.\\nThis is continued to the end of the row. The\\nthird row is like the first a row of open Brussels\\nnet stitches. The first stitch is placed at the right\\nof the three Spanish net stitches of the row above,\\nand the second is placed in the loop at their left.\\nIn this way the trio of Spanish net stitches is\\nconsidered as one stitch, and the loop between the\\nfirst and second Brussels net stitch encloses them\\nall. The next Brussels net stitch is placed in the\\nnext loop of the row above, and the work so con-\\ntinued to the end of the row. The fourth row is\\ncomposed like the second, of single Brussels net\\nand trios of Spanish net alternating. The Spanish\\nnet stitches are placed in the loops below or under\\nthe single Brussels net stitches of the second row.\\nThis results in the Spanish net stitches occurring\\nin diagonal lines across the network, and is more\\ngraceful and artistic than if placed in lines under\\neach other.\\nOne of the prettiest of networks is composed of\\nalternating rows of Spanish net and Brussels net\\nstitches, as shown in Fig. 95. The thread is fas-\\ntened at the upper left corner, and a row of single\\nSpanish net stitches is worked at regular intervals\\nfar enough apart to admit on the loop between\\nthem five or six close Brussels net stitches. When\\nthe opposite edge of the space is reached, the thread\\nis attached to the braid, and overcast along its edge\\nthe required distance. A group of five or six close\\nBrussels net (or buttonhole) stitches is worked over\\neach loop between the Spanish net stitches. These\\nBrussels net stitches must be evenly and closely\\nworked and there should be enough of them to fill\\nclosely, but not crowd, the loop upon which they\\nare worked. Each loop of the first row of stitches\\nis filled in this way with the Brussels net stitches.\\nThe thread, upon reaching the end of the row, is\\nagain attached to the braid and overcast along its\\nedge the length of the Spanish net stitch. The\\nthird row consists of the single Spanish net stitches\\nplaced on the little loop between the groups of\\nBrussels net stitches and just under the stitches\\nof the first row. The fourth row is like the second.\\nWhen completed the network shows a pattern of\\nopen squares, with the heavy lines of Brussels net\\nstitches reaching in parallel lines from right to\\nleft across the space, and the lighter Spanish net\\nstitches forming parallel lines at right angles to\\nthe Brussels net stitches.\\nA similar but less geometrical network is made\\nwholly of Brussels net stitches (see Fig. 96).\\nThe thread is fas-\\ntened at the upper\\nleft corner and a row\\nof open Brussels net\\nstitches is worked at\\nregular intervals\\nacross the space.\\nThe thread is then\\novercast along the\\nedge of the braid as\\nusual, and a second\\nrow of open Brussels\\nnet is worked into\\nthe loops of the first\\nrow, one stitch being\\nplaced in each loop.\\nThe third row is the\\nclose row. Into each\\nloop of the second\\nrow is worked five or\\nsix close Brussels\\nnet, or buttonhole,\\nstitches. There\\nshould always be\\nthe same number of\\nthese stitches in each\\nloop, and there should be enough of them worked\\nclosely together to nearly fill the loop. A row of\\nopen Brussels net stitches is next worked, one\\nstitch being placed on each loop between the groups\\nof close buttonhole stitches of the third row. The\\nnext, or fifth row, is like the second, and the sixth\\nrow is like the third.\\nAn exceedingly delicate and attractive stitch is\\nshown in Fig. 97. The thread is attached to the\\nupper right corner of the space, and three rows of\\nCombination Stitches.\\n38", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "open double net stitch are worked. To accomplish\\nthis, two buttonhole stitches close together, and\\ndrawn rather tight, are worked at regular intervals\\ninto the braid across the space. The second row\\nconsists of two close buttonhole stitches worked\\ninto each loop of the first row. The third row is\\nlike the second. At the completion of the third\\nrow the thread is overcast along the edge of the\\nbraid for a distance about equal to that necessary\\nfor a Spanish net stitch. A single buttonhole\\nstitch is worked into the first loop of the preced-\\ning row, and left somewhat loose. Point de Venise\\nor side stitches are now used. A close buttonhole\\nstitch is worked over the single net stitch close to\\nthe loop to which it is attached. This is drawn\\nclosely and followed by three or four more side\\nstitches set closely together. There must be\\nenough of them to so fill the long loop that there\\nis only a slight downward curve to that part left\\nuncovered, and into which the next row must be\\nworked. When the first group of side, or Point de\\nVenise, stitches is completed, another single long\\nBrussels net stitch is worked into the next loop, and\\nthis in turn is filled with the same number of side\\nstitches as were used to cover the first long stitch.\\nThis is continued to the end of the row, and is\\nfollowed by three rows of double net stitch, after\\nwhich the row of long Point de Venise stitches is\\nrepeated. This is continued in the same order of\\nthree rows of double net and one of Point de\\nVenise, until the space is filled.\\nCombination Stitch.\\nIn Fig. 98 is shown a pretty combination of\\nBrussels net, Spanish net, and Venetian stitches.\\nThe thread is fastened at the upper left corner,\\nand two rows of Brussels net stitches are worked.\\nThe thread is then overcast one stitch lower, along\\nthe edge of the braid, at the side of the space, and\\nthen carried in a straight line across the width of\\nthe space and through the braid at the right side,\\njust below the second row of Brussels net stitches.\\nTwo close buttonhole stitches are worked over each\\nloop, and in every instance over the straight thread\\nalso. This makes the Venetian stitch. The thread\\nis again carried across the space, and a second row\\nof Venetian stitch worked. In this row one button-\\nhole stitch is worked between each of the stitches of\\nthe row above. The working thread is then overcast\\nalong the edge of the braid the required distance,\\nand a Spanish net stitch is worked between every\\nFig. 98. Comiunation Stitch.\\nBrussels Net, Spanish Net, and Venetian\\nStitch.\\nother stitch of the row above. The working thread\\nis then carried twice across the space, and should lie\\nin close parallel lines just at the edge of the loops\\nof the row of\\nSpanish net\\nstitches. A row\\nof Venetian\\nstitch is then\\nworked over\\nthese two-\\nthreads, and the\\nthe loops of the\\nSpanish net\\nstitches by plac-\\ning two Brussels\\nnet stitches on\\neach loop be-\\ntween the Span-\\nish net stitches. If preferred, only one straight\\nthread may be carried across the space for this row\\nof Venetian stitch. A second row of Spanish net\\nstitches is then worked, one between every two\\nVenetian stitches of the row above. This places\\nthe Spanish net stitches exactly under the Spanish\\nnet stitches already worked in the row above. Two\\nrows of Venetian stitch are next made and the\\nspace is completed by the working of two rows of\\nBrussels net.\\nA very pretty effect is produced by alternating\\ntwo or three rows of Venetian stitch with one of\\nSpanish net throughout the space. In this case\\nthe Brussels net stitches at the beginning of the\\nnetwork are omitted, and the network should begin\\nwith one row of Spanish net stitches and should\\nalso end with a row of the same.\\nCombination Stitch.\\nAnother pretty stitch is shown in Pig. 99. The\\nthread is fastened at the upper right corner and a\\nrow of open Brussels net stitches is worked across\\nthe space. The thread is overcast along the edge\\nof the left braid a distance equal to the Brussels\\nnet stitches. A single net stitch is worked in the\\nfirst loop of the row above. This is repeated at\\nthe second loop. Into this second stitch a group\\nof four close buttonhole stitches is worked. The\\nthread is passed through the middle of the net-\\nstitch and drawn up in a rather close buttonhole\\nstitch. Three other similar stitches are worked\\nclose together in the same opening. A single\\nBrussels net stitch is placed in the next loop of\\n39", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "the row above, and\\nthis single Brus-\\nsells net stitch is\\nfollowed by an-\\nother cluster of\\nfour stitches with-\\nin the single Brus-\\nsels net stitch\\nplaced upon the\\nnext loop. This\\nis repeated to the\\nend of the row.\\nThe third row i-\\nlike the first and the\\nCombination Stitch.\\nFig. 90. Combination Stitch.\\nfourth is like the second.\\nThis exceedingly beautiful stitch was taken\\nfrom a piece of lace made in Ireland. The thread\\nis fastened at the upper left corner. It is then\\nheld by the thumb, or secured by a pin, in a long\\nloop, and at a distance to the right of the corner\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2equal to one side or half of this long loop five\\nclose buttonhole stitches are worked. A second\\nlong loop is secured, and five more buttonhole\\nstitches worked. The third long loop follows.\\nThese loops must be of exactly the same length.\\nThe thread is entered into the braid at the left,\\nand overcast along its edge a distance equal to\\ntwo buttonhole stitches. Into the first long loop\\ntwo close buttonhole stitches are worked. These\\nare held in place by the thumb, and two more\\nstitches are placed on the middle loops of the five\\nstitches of the row\\nabove. Two more\\nstitches are then\\nplaced on the next\\nlong loop, and are\\nfollowed by two\\non the middle loops\\nof the next group\\nof five stitches.\\nThis is continued\\nto the end of the\\nrow,\\nThe thread is again attached to the braid, and\\ntwo close stitches are worked at the left of the\\nfirst group of two stitches of the second row. One\\nstitch is placed upon the loop between the group\\nof two stitches, and close to them at the right two\\nmore close stitches are worked. This makes a row\\nof five close buttonhole stitches under the two of\\nFig. mo. Combination Stitch.\\nFig. 101. Combination Stitch.\\nthe row above. The thread is not carried up to\\nthe next group of two stitches, but a long loop is\\nsecured, as in the first row, and five close button-\\nhole stitches are worked below the group of two\\nstitches, swinging on the long loop of the row\\nabove. Another long loop is secured, and five\\nmore close stitches worked. This is continued\\nacross the space. The fourth row is like the sec-\\nond, and the fifth is like the third.\\nCombination Stitch.\\nFig. 101 is a very showy stitch, suitable for heavy,\\nsumptuous effects. The thread is fastened at the\\nupper right cor-\\nner, and a row\\nof large loops is\\nmade by work-\\ning single Brus-\\nsels net stitches\\nrather far apart.\\nand making the\\nloops between\\nsomewhat long.\\nThe thread is at-\\ntached to the left\\nbraid and car-\\nried down one stitch. A row of ten close button-\\nhole stitches is then worked upon the first loop,\\nfilling it smoothly but not tightly. The left\\nthumb is then placed firmly upon the second loop\\nto prevent its being pulled out of shape, and to\\nbring the stitches close up to the edge of the braid\\nin order to preserve the scalloped effect. The first\\nbuttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second\\nloop and drawn up very tightly to the braid. The\\nother nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb\\nplaced upon the third loop, ready to assist in the\\nshaping of the next curve. This is continued to\\nthe end of the row. The third row is like the\\nfirst, except that the buttonhole stitches are placed\\nbetween the fifth and sixth stitches of each group\\nof the row above. The fourth row is like the\\nsecond.\\nConnected Needle-made Picots.\\nConnected needle-made picots make a pretty\\nfinish for the edge of a piece of lace, and are made\\nafter the lace is completed. The thread is at-\\ntached to the edge of the braid with a buttonhole\\nstitch. Over this another buttonhole stitch, called\\na seed or side stitch, is worked. This is the little\\n40", "height": "2756", "width": "1948", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "Fig. 102. Coxxected Picots.\\nPoint de Yenise stitch already given. The thread\\nis then carried over and through the loop, and is\\ntied with a\\nsecond b u t-\\ntonhole knot\\nor side stitch.\\nThis is re-\\npeated at reg-\\nular intervals, leaving the loops between of uniform\\nsize, and long enough to fall in graceful curves.\\nIsolated Needle-made Picots,\\nAnother method of finishing the edge of lace is\\nto make isolated picots. These have open pendent\\nloops, and resemble to some extent the machine-\\nmade edges. The thread is attached to the braid\\nwith a buttonhole stitch. A pin is then thrust\\nthrough the pattern, upon which the lace is\\nstill basted, at a point indicating the required\\nlength of the picot. The thread is then passed\\naround this pin from right to left, and crossed\\nagain to the right, forming an oval loop. It is\\nthen passed across the loop again, and the needle\\nthrust behind the buttonhole stitch and the end\\nof the loop over the thread that again crosses the\\npicot, and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot.\\nAt the required distance from the first picot, a\\nsecond buttonhole stitch is made into the edge of\\nthe braid, and the thread between this and the fin-\\nished picot is drawn up to form a straight line\\nparallel with the braid. The pin is again placed\\nin position, and\\nthe second picot\\nis made and\\ntied with a but-\\ntonhole knot,\\nFig. 103. Isolated Picots. S before*\\nThese picots are repeated at regular intervals\\nalong the edge of the braid.\\nNet or Applique Lace.\\n[ANY beautiful effects may be obtained by\\ncombining lace braids and stitches with\\nnet. Marie Antoinette is a net or ap-\\nplique lace on a larger scale. The same\\nmethods may be employed to make the finest and\\ndaintiest of filmy laces. In the former, cords, rings,\\nand various heavy showy braids are used to pro-\\nduce flowers and foliage, bow-knots and scroll\\neffects. In the finer laces the regular point and\\nhoniton lace braids are used.\\nThe net is basted carefully and smoothly on\\nthe stamped pattern. Much of the perfection of\\nthe finished work depends upon the neatness and\\nexactness of this part of the work. The lines\\nof the pattern will be clearly seen through the\\nnet, and over these the braid is basted.\\nWhere the net underneath is to be cut away\\nthe edge of the braid must be fastened to the net\\nwith close buttonhole stitches of fine thread. The\\ninner curves must be fastened into position, and,\\nif the net is not to be cut away, these edges must\\nalso be buttonholed to the foundation. With care\\nthe drawing of the inner curves into position may\\nbe done with the buttonholing. When this can be\\ndone the overcasting is unnecessary.\\nWhen the net is not to be cut away the braid\\n41\\nmay be attached by close overcasting stitches.\\nA row of braid almost always outlines the edge\\nof the lace. This is also buttonholed firmly to\\nthe net and has an edge of purling overcast to its\\nouter edge. Occasionally the braid is omitted and\\nthe purling alone is buttonholed to the net. This\\nWftirrmr\u00c2\u00abiWiiffi?(iBW w\u00c2\u00ab\u00c2\u00ab\u00c2\u00abii!7S5 ffi\\nFio. 104. Mrthop of Applying Braid to Net.", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "makes a lighter but less durable finish for the\\nlace. The various lace stitches are then worked\\ninto the design of the braid. In honiton applique\\nthe braid medallions are buttonholed into position\\naccording to the pattern, which is usually a floral\\ndesign. The stems of the various leaves and\\nflowers are sometimes worked in tent stitch and\\nsometimes are darned into the meshes of the net.\\nThe centres of flowers are usually finished with\\nneedle-made buttonholed rings.\\nInstead of the lace stitches used in the point\\napplique, a very pretty effect is obtained by filling\\nin the spaces with darned net stitches.\\nDots may be sprinkled over the net by weaving\\nthe thread around and around a selected mesh of\\nthe net. Another way is to work bird s-eye stitches,\\nusing several threads. These bird s-eye stitches\\nmake pretty leaves and sprays when worked in\\nthe design of the lace. A third method of dot-\\nting the net is to work little buttonholed rings at\\nregular intervals, or the tiny rings used in point\\nlace may be added if the net is heavy.\\nWhen the lace is finished it is removed from\\nthe pattern, and the net to be removed from under\\nmedallions and lace stitches is carefully cut away.\\nThe edge is also cut close to the buttonholing that\\nholds the lace edge in position. The lace is then\\npressed under a damp cloth.\\nHow to Wash Lace.\\njO wasli lace successfully, plenty of time\\nand great care are necessary. There\\nare instances where hurried work is\\nfollowed by success, but the chances\\nare against it. A Battenberg doily became soiled\\nin the making, so the maker rubbed white soap on\\nit, thrust it in a basin of hot water, and rubbed it\\nvigorously between her hands, until all trace of soil\\nwas gone. She then pulled it out into shape, placed\\nit between two towels, and rolled it up. When\\nnearly dry, she ironed it, still between the towels,\\nand, strange to say, that doily showed no bad\\nresults from its rough treatment.\\nA still more remarkable instance was that of a\\nfine modern point lace handkerchief, made with\\nthread No. 1000. This handkerchief accidentally\\nwent with the family linen to the washerwoman.\\nThe adventures it went through at her hands will\\nforever remain a mystery, but when it reached\\nhome it was white and clean, ironed and folded,\\nand none the worse for its experiences.\\nBut these cases are rare, and are also unfor-\\ntunate, as they lead to carelessness in accomplish-\\ning a work that should receive the most careful\\ntreatment. Sometimes all that is necessary to\\nclean a piece of lace is to lay it between two sheets\\nof white or blue paper, first sprinkling it well with\\npowdered magnesia. Then place it between the\\nleaves of a book, and allow it to remain for several\\ndays. When the magnesia is shaken out, the lace\\nwill be found to be very greatly improved. Lace\\nplaced between sheets of blue paper will keep white\\nlonger than when placed between white paper, or\\nlaid away in a box.\\nWhen actual washing is necessary, take a glass\\nbottle whose body is as nearly cylindrical as possi-\\nble. Half fill this with sand or water, to prevent\\nthe water when boiling from tossing the bottle\\nabout too violently in the kettle. Very carefully\\nwind the lace around this bottle, and cover it with\\na layer of cheesecloth or muslin. A still better\\nway is to baste the lace smoothly and exactly on\\na piece of cheesecloth, then wind it securely around\\nthe bottle, and cover the whole with another layer\\nof the cheesecloth.\\nInto a granite saucepan put some cold water, a\\nsmall piece of soap, and, if the lace is very dirty,\\na pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace-wound\\nbottle, and let the water come to a boil. As the\\nwater gets dirty, pour it off, and replace with more\\ncold water and soap. Continue this treatment\\nuntil the boiling water remains perfectly clean.\\nThen remove the bottle, and plunge into a basin of\\nclean, cold water, and rinse thoroughly. Allow\\nthe lace to remain on the bottle until it is dry, then\\nremove it and separate from the cheesecloth.\\nWhen real lace has become stained or greasy\\nfrom wear, place it in a bath of pure olive oil, and\\nallow it to remain for several hours or even a day\\nor two. This gives to the lace the softness of\\ntexture it possessed when new. After this is\\naccomplished, wind the lace on the bottle, and\\nproceed with the boiling, as already described.\\nWhen the lace is too large to wind around a\\nbottle, baste it evenly and securely to a piece of\\ncheesecloth, with small stitches in parallel lines\\nacross the surface of the lace. Baste another piece\\nof cheesecloth over it, and boil in a series of waters.\\n42", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "After the rinsing, which must be accomplished by\\npressing and squeezing, but never by wringing, pin\\nthe cloth upon which the lace is basted smoothly\\nto a sheet stretched in curtain frames or, if this\\nis impossible, to a sheet stretched and pinned over a\\ncarpet. Allow the lace to dry, and then remove from\\nthe sheet and from the two layers of cheesecloth.\\nIf you wish the lace starched, dissolve a suffi-\\ncient amount of starch in cold water. Boil half of\\nit, and, when partly cool, stir in the uncooked half\\nand add cold water until the mass is of the consist-\\nency of cream. Into this dip the lace, and gently\\nsqueeze out the extra amount. Lay the lace in a\\nflat mass in the left hand, and spat it thoroughly\\nwith the right until the starch is well worked in.\\nRepeat the process if desired, and roll the lace in\\na towel and leave for some hours.\\nTo color lace a cream shade add a few drops of\\nblack coffee to the starch. To make the lace a\\ngreenish hue use a little cold tea.\\nMachine laces may be ironed directly upon then-\\nsurfaces. First carefully and smoothly pull all the\\npicots into place and see that the lace is exactly in\\nits original shape iron until dry. Then pull the\\nlace along its entire length between the fingers\\nfrom the footing or engrelure to the opposite edge.\\nPass the iron again over its length. The pulling\\nrelieves the lace of the stiff, starched effect, and\\nmakes it as pliable as new lace.\\nTo iron unstarched lace place it right side down\\nupon a pad or ironing-board covered with several\\nthicknesses of white flannel. Over this spread care-\\nfully a damp cloth and press with a hot iron until\\nthis cloth is thoroughly dry. This is also the way\\nto press newly made lace, and should be done as\\nsoon as the lace is removed from the pattern. A\\nlittle white sugar added to the water in which\\nthis over-cloth is dampened will stiffen the lace,\\nand is in some cases much better than starch.\\nAnother excellent method is to dampen a piece of\\nnew organdy or other white goods containing starch\\nor dressing. Place this over the lace and iron till\\ndry. This gives a crisp new appearance to the lace\\nwithout making it at all suggestive of starch. An-\\nother method of washing lace is to soak it about\\nfifteen minutes in a bowl of suds made of white\\nsoap and water. Pour this off and replace with a\\nclean suds. Place the basin where the sun will\\nshine upon it. Change the lather twice a day and\\nlet the rays of the sun restore the lace to its orig-\\ninal whiteness. When it is clean rinse it in several\\nclear waters, pressing but never squeezing, and drop\\nit in a dainty heap on a plate. Leave it here till\\nit is only damp, not wet. Dissolve two lumps of\\nwhite sugar in a pint of water, and into this drop\\nthe lace. Allow it to remain for about five minutes.\\nSqueeze this sweetened water out and spread the\\nlace smoothly upon the soft, flannel-covered ironing-\\ntable. Over it place a piece of white muslin and\\niron with a warm, not too hot, iron until it is dry.\\nRemove the cloth, and, taking the lace in the hands,\\ncarefully manipulate with the fingers until the lace\\nhas been restored to its original shape. Then with\\na fine lace needle, which has no point to tear and\\nsplit the delicate threads, carefully open and shape\\neach picot.\\nIrish guipure and real point lace should be\\npinned out, not ironed. This is quite a task, and\\nshould be attempted only when the worker has\\nample time and is not liable to be interrupted. A\\nlarge wooden drum or hoop of sufficient width is\\nbest, but if this is not to be had, a large circular\\nbox or a straight board may be used. Pad the\\nouter surface of this drum on both sides and the\\nends of the board with several layers of white\\nflannel, and, if preferred, cover this with a piece\\nof white muslin stretched smoothly.\\nLace must, of course, be damp when pinned,\\nand then the pins will not tear the threads of the\\npicots. Only a portion of the length should be\\nremoved from the damp cloth within which it is\\nrolled. Should the lace, being pinned, become dry,\\ndampen it with a wet cloth or sponge. First pin\\nthe footing or engrelure down to the padded sup-\\nport, using plenty of pins placed close together.\\nSpread the lace across its width smoothly over the\\nsupport, and pin each picot separately by thrusting\\nthe pin through it and into the flannel support as\\nif it were a cushion. The pins must be the exact\\nsize of the picots, as their size must keep the\\npicots in their original shape. Leave the lace until\\nit is thoroughly dry and then remove the pins. If\\nthe lace has a raised design, stamp it on the wrong\\nside with a lace awl.\\n43", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "#3 7 4 1", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": ",0* I", "height": "2756", "width": "1927", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "a* O* -s\\na* V\\nJ- h\\n*\u00c2\u00b0o\\njy\\ni\\nKg\\nA\\ncr L\\nv\\nj.0\\nfe\\nDOBBS BROS.\\nLIIKAAV BINDINB\\nv\\ns?\\nST. AUGUSTINE\\nFLA.\\n*\u00c2\u00bbv", "height": "2767", "width": "1960", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2924", "width": "2090", "jp2-path": "howtomakebattenb00brow_0058.jp2"}}