{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3250", "width": "1877", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "V :.,o\\n-^5?s^%;\\nA- .^0\u00e2\u0080\u00a2\\n;ff/^:fe.:", "height": "2968", "width": "1828", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "1-^ r.\\nffm^.\\\\\\n7= J\\nt*\\n^o\\no_\\nr^\\ni 6\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2^c.\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0A. .A^\\n:^^F^\\\\^", "height": "2968", "width": "1828", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2973", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2973", "width": "1790", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2968", "width": "1828", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2968", "width": "1828", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "[Pase\\nTHE FAMOUS RELIEF OP CLEOPATRA AT TEMPLK OF DENDERAH", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "As Seen JBy Me\\nLilian Bell\\n^l^\\nHarper 6r Brothers\\nNew York, and London\\n1900", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "1778\\nTWO COPIES RECEIVED,\\nQfflcii of tb\u00c2\u00ab\\nJUN5-)900\\nSegfsUr of Capyrlrttj,\\nacco.ocoPv.^^ 7/i7 Z\\nBy LILIAN BELL.\\n^^^/^y/fO^f\\nTHE INSTINCT OF STEP-FATHERHOOD. A\\nNovel. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.\\nA LITTLE SISTER TO THE WILDERNESS.\\nA Novel. 16rno, Cloth, $1 25.\\nTHE LOVE AFFAIRS OF AN OLD MAID.\\n16mo, Cloth, $1 25.\\nTHE UNDER SIDE OF THINGS. 16mo, Cloth,\\n$1 25.\\nFROM A GIRL S POINT OF VIEW. 16mo.\\nCloth, ?1 25.\\nNRW YORK AND LONDON\\nHARPER BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.\\n59321\\nCopyright, 1900, by Lilian Bell.\\nW// rights reserved.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "TO\\nTHAT MOST INTERESTING SPECK OP HUMANITY, ALL\\nPERPETUAL MOTION AND KINDIJNG INTELLIGENCE\\nAND SWEETNESS UNSPEAKABLE, MY LITTLE NEPHEW\\nBILLY\\nABSENCE FROM WHOM RACKED MY SPIRIT WITH ITS MOST\\nUNAPPEASABLE PANGS OF HOMESICKNESS, AND WHOSE\\nCONSTANT PRESENCE IN MY STUDY SINCE MY RETURN\\nHAS SPARED THE PUBLIC NO SMALL AMOUN^ OP PAIN", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "AUTHOK S APOLOGY\\nThe frank conceit of the title to this\\nbook will, I hope, not prejudice my friends\\nagainst it, and will serve not onh^ to excuse\\nmj being my own Boswell, but will fasten\\nthe blame of all inaccuracies, if such there\\nbe, upon the offender myself. This is not\\na continuous narrative of a continuous jour-\\nney, but covers two years of travel over\\nsome thirty thousand miles, and presents\\npeoples and things, not as you saw them,\\nperhaps, or as they really are, but only\\nAs Seen By Me.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER PAGE\\nI. First Letter\u00e2\u0080\u0094 On the Way 1\\nII. London 17\\nIII. Paris CO\\nIV. On Board the Yacht IIela 124\\nV. ViLNA, Russia 151\\nVI. St. Petersburg 1G6\\nVII. Russia 178\\nVIII. Moscow 191\\nIX. Constantinople 204\\nX. Cairo 219\\nXI. The Nile 234\\nXII. Greece 252\\nXIII. Naples 278\\nXIV. Rome 292", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nFIRST LETTER O^ THE WAY\\nIn this day and generation, when every-\\nbody goes* to Europe, it is difficult to discover\\nthe only person who never has been there.\\nBut I am that one, and therefore the stir\\nit occasioned in the bosom of my amiable\\nfamily when I announced that I, too, was\\nabout to join the vast majority, is not easy\\nto imagine. But if you think that I at once\\nbecame a person of importance it only goes\\nto show that you do not know the family.\\nMy mother, to be sure, hovered around me\\nthe way she does when she thinks I am going\\ninto typhoid fever. I never have had ty-\\nphoid fever, but she is always on the watch\\nfor it, and if it ever comes it will not catch\\nher napping. She will meet it half-way.\\nAnd lest it elude her watchfulness, she mi-\\nA 1", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\n1\\nnutely questions every pain which assails any\\none of us, for fear it may be her dreaded foe.\\nYet when my sister s blessed lamb baby had\\nit before he was a year old, and after he had\\ngot well and I was not afraid he would\\nbe struck dead for my wickedness, I said to\\nher, Well, mamma, you must have taken\\nsolid comfort out of the first real chance you\\never had at your pet fever, she said I ought\\nto be ashamed of myself.\\nMy father began to explain international\\nbanking to me as his share in my prepara-\\ntions, but I utterly discouraged him by ask-\\ning the difference between a check and a\\nnote. He said I reminded him of the jury-\\nman who asked the difference between plain-\\ntiff and defendant. I soothed him by as-\\nsuring him that I knew I would always find\\nsomebody to go to the bank with me.\\nMost likely twill be Providence, then,\\nas He watches over children and fools, said\\nmy cousin, with what George Eliot calls\\nthe brutal candor of a near relation.\\nMy brother-in-law lent me ten Baedekers,\\nand offered his hampers and French trunks\\nto me with such reckless generosity that I\\nhad to get my sister to stop him so that I\\nwouldn t hurt his feelings by refusing.\\nMy sister said, I am perfectly sure,\\nmamma, that if I don t go with her, she will\\ngo about with an ecstatic smile on her face,\\n2", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nand let herself get cheated and lost, and she\\nwould just as soon as not tell everybody that\\nshe had never been abroad before. She has\\nno pride.\\nThen you had better come along and\\ntake care of me and see that I don t disgrace\\nyou, I urged.\\nReally, mamma, I do think I had better\\ngo, said my sister. So she actually con-\\nsented to leave husband and baby in order to\\ngo and take care of me. I do assure you,\\nhowever, that I have bought all the tickets,\\nand carried the common purse, and got her\\nthrough the custom-houses, and arranged\\nprices thus far. But she does pack my\\ntrunks and make out the laundry lists I\\nwill say that for her.\\nMy brother s contribution to my comfort\\nwas in this wise He said, You must have\\na few more lessons on your wheel before you\\ngo, and I ll take you out for a lesson to-mor-\\nrow if you ll get up and go at six o clock in\\nthe morning that is, if you ll wear gloves.\\nBut you mortify me half to death riding\\nwithout gloves.\\nN^obody sees me but milkmen, I said,\\nhumbly.\\nWell, what will the milkmen think?\\nsaid my brother.\\nMercy on us, I never thought of that, I\\nsaid. My gloves are all pretty tight when", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\none kas to grip one s handle-Lars as fiercely\\nas I do. But I ll get large ones. What tint\\ndo you think milkmen care the most for\\nHe sniffed.\\nWell, I ll go and I ll wear gloves, I\\nsaid, but if I fall off, remember it will be\\non account of the gloves.\\nYou always do fall off, he said, with pa-\\ntient resignation. I ve seen you fall off\\nthat wheel in more different directions than\\nit has spokes.\\nI don t exactly fall, I explained, care-\\nfully. I feel myself going and then I get\\noff.\\nI was ready at six the next morning, and\\nI wore gloves.\\nKow, don t ride into the holes in the\\nstreet one is obliged to give such instruc-^\\ntions in Chicago and don t look at any-\\nthing you see. Don t be afraid. You re all\\nright. Kow, then You^re off\\nOh, Teddy, don t ride so close to me, I\\nquavered.\\nI m forty feet away from you, he said.\\nThen double it, 1 said. You re chok-\\ning me by your proximity.\\nLet s cross the railroad tracks just for\\npractice, he said, when it was too late for\\nme to expostulate. Stand up on your ped-\\nals and ride fast, and\\nHold on, please do, I shrieked. I m\\n4", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nfalling off. Get out of my way. I seem to\\nbe turning\\nHe scorched ahead, and I headed straight\\nfor the switchman s hut, rounded it neatly,\\nand leaned myself and my wheel against the\\nside of it, helpless witli laughter.\\nA red Irish face, with a short black pipe in\\nits mouth, thrust itself out of the tiny win-\\ndow just in front of me, and a voice with a\\nrich brogue exclaimed\\nAs purty a bit of riding as iver Oi see\\nWasn t it i I cried. You couldn t\\ndo if\\nOi wouldn t thry Oi d rather tackle a\\nrailroad train going at full spheed thin wan\\nav thim runaway critturs.\\nGet down from there, hissed my\\nbrother so close to my ear that it made me\\nbite my tongue.\\nI obediently scrambled down. Ted s face\\nwas very red.\\nYou ought to be ashamed of yourself to\\nenter into immediate conversation with a\\nman like that. What do you suj^pose that\\nman thought of you\\nOh, perhaps he saw my gloves and took\\nme for a lady, I pleaded.\\nTed grinned and assisted me to mount.\\nWhen I successfully turned the corner by\\nmaking Ted fall back out of sight, we rode\\naway along the boulevard in silence for a", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwhile, for my conversation when I am on a\\nwheel is generally limited to shrieks, ejacula-\\ntions, and snatches of prayer. I never talk\\nto be amusing.\\nI say/ said my brother, hesitatingly, I\\nwear a No. 8 glove and a No. 10 stocking.\\nI ve always thought you had large\\nhands and feet, I said, ignoring the hint.\\nHe giggled.\\nNoy now, really. I wish you d write\\nthat down somewhere. You can get those\\nthings so cheap in Paris.\\nYou are supposing the case of my re-\\nturn, or of Christmas intervening, or a\\npresent of some kind, I suppose.\\nWell, no not exactly. Although you\\nknow I am always broke\\nDon t I, though\\nAnd that I am still in debt\\nBecause papa insists upon your putting\\nsome money in the bank every month\\nYes, and the result is that I never get my\\nhead above water. I owe you twenty now.\\nWhich I never expect to recover, be-\\ncause you know I always get silly about\\nChristmas and forgive thee thy debts.\\nYou re awful good he began.\\nBut I ll be better if I bring you gloves\\nand silk stockings.\\nI ll give you the money he said, hero-\\nically.\\n6", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nWill you borrow it of me or of mam-\\nma I asked, with a chuckle at the family\\nfinanciering which always goes on in this\\nmanner.\\nN^ow don t make fun of me I You don t\\nknow what it is to be hard up.\\nDon t I, though I said, indignantly.\\nOh\u00e2\u0080\u0094 oh Catch me\\nHe seized my handle-bar and righted me\\nbefore I fell off.\\nSee Avhat you did by saying I never was\\nhard up/ I said. I ll tell you what, Ted-\\ndy. You needn t give me the money. I ll\\nbring you some gloves and stockings\\nOh, I say, honest Oh, but you re the\\nright kind of a sister I ll never forget that\\nas long as I live. You do look so nice on\\nyour wheel. Y^ou sit so straight and\\nI saw a milkman coming. We three were\\nthe only objects in sight, yet I headed for\\nhim.\\nGet out of my way, I shrieked at him.\\nI m a beginner. Turn off\\nHe lashed his horse and cut down a side\\nstreet.\\nWhat a narrow escape, I sighed.\\nHow glad I am I happened to think of\\nthat.\\nI looked up pleasantly at Ted. He was\\nbiting his lips and he looked raging.\\nYou are the most hopeless girl I ever", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsaw he burst out. I wish you didn t\\nown a wheel/\\nI don t/ I said. The wheel owns me.\\nYou haven t the manners of\\nStockings/ I said, looking straight\\nahead. Silk stockings with polka dots em-\\nbroidered on them, No. 10.\\nTed looked sheepish.\\nI ride so well/ I proceeded. I sit up\\nso straight and look so nice.\\nNo answer.\\nGloves/ I went on, still without looking\\nat him. White and pearl ones for evening,\\nand russet gloves for the street. No. 8.\\nOh, quit, won t you I m sorry I said\\nthat. But if you only knew how you mortify\\nme.\\nCheer up, Tedcastle. I am going away,\\nyou know. And when I come back you will\\neither have got over caring so much or I will\\nbe more of a lady.\\nI m sorry you are going, said my\\nbrother. But as you are going, perhaps\\nyou will let me use your rooms while you\\nare gone. Your bed is the best one I ever\\nslept in, and your study would be bully for\\nthe boys when they come to see me.\\nI was too stunned to reply. He went on,\\nutterly oblivious of my consternation\\nAnd I am going to use your wheel while\\nyou are gone, if you don t mind, to take the\\n8", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ngirls out on. I know some awfully nice girls\\nwho can ride, but their wheels are last year s\\nmake, and they Avon t ride them. I d rather\\nlike to be able to offer them a new wheel.\\nI am not going to take all my party\\ndresses. Have you any use for them? I\\nsaid.\\nWhy, what s the matter Won t you let\\nme have your rooms\\nMerciful heavens, child I should say\\nnot\\nWhy, I haven t asked you for much,\\nsaid my small, modest brother. You of-\\nfered.\\nWell, just wait till I offer the rest. But\\nI ll tell you what I will do, Ted. If you\\nwill promise not to go into my rooms and\\nrummage once while I am gone, and not to\\ntouch my wheel, I ll buy you a tandem, and\\nthen you can take the girls on that.\\nI d rather have you bring me some\\nthings from Europe, said my shrinking\\nbrother.\\nAll right. I ll do that, but let me off\\nthis thing. I am so tired I can t move.\\nYou ll have to walk it back and give me five\\ncents to ride home on the car.\\nI crawled in to breakfast more dead than\\nalive.\\nWhat s the matter, dearie Did you\\nride too far asked mamma.\\n9", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI don t know whether I rode too far or\\nwhether it was Ted s asking if he couldn t\\nuse my rooms while I was gone, but some-\\nthing has made me tired. What s that?\\nWhom is papa talking to over the tele-\\nphone\\nPapa came in fuming and fretting.\\nWho was it this time I questioned,\\nwith anticipation. Inquiries over the tele-\\nphone were sure to be interesting to me just\\nnow.\\nSomebody who wanted to know what\\ntrain you were going on, but would not give\\nhis name. He was inquiring for a friend,\\nhe said, and wouldn t give his friend s name\\neither.\\nDidn t you tell him I cried, in dis-\\ntress.\\nCertainly not. I told him nobody but\\nan idiot would withhold his name.\\nPapa calls such a variety of men idiots.\\nOh, but it was probably only flowers or\\ncandy. Why didn t you tell him? Have\\nyou no sentiment\\nI won t have you receiving anonymous\\ncommunications, he retorted, with the lib-\\nerty fathers have a little way of taking with\\ntheir daughters.\\nBut flowers, I pleaded. It is no\\nharm to send flowers without a card. Don t\\nyou see? Oh^ how hard it is to explain a\\n10", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ndelicate point like that to one s father in\\nbroad daylight I am supposed to know\\nwho sent them!\\nBut would you know asked my prac-\\ntical ancestor.\\nNot not exactly. But it would be al-\\nmost sure to be one of them.\\nTed shouted. But there was nothing\\nfunny in wdiat I said. Boys are so silly.\\nAnyway, I am sorry you didn t tell\\nhim/ I said.\\nWell, I m not, declared papa.\\nThe rest of the day fairly flew. The last\\nnight came, and the baby was put to bed. I\\nundressed him, which he regarded as such a\\njoke that he worked himself into a fever of\\nexcitement. He loves to scrub like Josie, the\\ncook. I had bought him a little red pail, and\\nI gave it to him that night when he was\\npartly undressed, and he was so enchanted\\nwith it that he scampered around hugging it,\\nand saying, Pile pile like a little Cock-\\nne}^ He gave such squeals of ecstasy that\\neverybody came into the nursery to find him\\nscrubbing his crib with a nail-brush and\\nlittle red pail.\\nWho gave you the pretty pail, Billy\\nasked Aunt Lida, who was sitting by the crib.\\nTattah, said Billy, in a whisper. He\\nalways whispers my name.\\nThen go and kiss dear auntie. She is\\n11", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ngoing away on the big boat to stay such a\\nlong time.\\nBilly s face sobered. Then he dropped\\nhis precious pail, and came and licked my\\nface like a little dog, which is his way of\\nkissing.\\nI squeezed him until he yelled.\\nDon t let him forget me, I wailed.\\nTalk to him about me every day. And buy\\nhim a toy out of my money often, and tell\\nhim Tattah sent it to him. Oh, oh, he ll\\nbe grown up when I come home\\nDon t cry, dearie, said Aunt Lida,\\nhanding me her handkerchief. I ll see that\\nyour grave is kept green.\\nMy sister appeared at the door. She was\\nall ready to start. She even had her veil on.\\nWhat do you mean by exciting Billy so\\nat this time of night she said. Go out,\\nall of you. We ll lose the train. Hush,\\nsomebody s at the telephone. Papa s talk-\\ning to that same man again. I jumped up\\nand ran out.\\nLet me answer it, papa dear Yes, yes,\\nyes, certainly. To-night on the Pennsylvania.\\nYou re quite welcome. ]^ot at all. I hung\\nup the telephone.\\nI could hear papa in the nursery\\nShe actually told him after all I said\\nthis morning! I never heard of anything\\nlike it.\\n12", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "ASSEEN BY ME\\nTwo or three voices were raised in my de-\\nfence. Ted slij)ped ont into the hall.\\nBully for yon/ he whispered. You ll\\nget the flowers all right at the train. Who\\ndo you s pose they re from? Another box\\njust came for you. Say, couldn t you leave\\nthat smallest box of violets in the silver box\\nI want to give them to a girl, and you ve got\\nsuch loads of others.\\nDon t ask her for those, answered my\\ndear sister, they are the most precious of\\nall!\\nI can t give you any of mine, I said,\\nbut I ll buy you a box for her a small\\nbox, I added hastily.\\nThe carriages have come, dears, qua-\\nvered grandmamma, coming out of the nur-\\nsery, followed by the family, one after the\\nother.\\nGet her satchels, Teddy. Her hat is up-\\nstairs. Her flowers are in the hall. She left\\nher ulster on my bed, and her books are on\\nthe window-sill, said mamma. She wouldn t\\nlook at me. Remember, dearie, your medi-\\ncines are all labelled, and I put needles in\\nyour work-box all threaded. Don t sit in\\ndraughts and don t read in a dim light. Have\\na good time and study hard and come back\\nsoon. Good bye, mv girlie. God bless\\nyou!\\nBy this time no handkerchief would have\\n13", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsufficed for my tears. I reached out blindly,\\nand Ted handed me a towel.\\nI ve got a sheet when you ve sopped\\nthat/ he said. Boys are such brutes.\\nAunt Lida said, Good-bye, my dearest.\\nYou are my favorite niece. You know I\\nlove you the best.\\nI giggled^ for she tells my sister the same\\nthing always.\\nISTobody seems to care much that I am\\ngoing, said Bee, mournfully.\\nBut yoi^ are coming back so soon, and\\nshe is going to stay so long, exclaimed\\ngrandmamma, patting Bee.\\nI ll bet she doesn t stay a year, cried\\nTed.\\nI ll expect her home by Christmas, said\\npapa.\\nI ll bet she is here to eat Thanksgiving\\ndinner, cried my brother-in-law.\\nIsTo, she is sure to stay as long as she has\\nsaid she would, said mamma.\\nMothers are the brace of the universe. The\\nfamily trailed down to the front door.\\nEverybody was carrying something. There\\nwere two carriages, for they were all going\\nto the station with us.\\nFor all the world like a funeral, with\\nloads of flowers and everybody crying, said\\nmy brother, cheerfully.\\nI never shall forget that drive to the sta-\\n14", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntion; nor the last few moments, when Bee\\nand I stood on the car-steps and talked to\\nthose who were on the platform of the sta-\\ntion. Can anybody else remember how she\\nfelt at going to Europe for the first time and\\nleaving everybody she loved at home Bee\\ngrieved because there were no flowers at the\\ntrain after all. But the next morning they\\nappeared, a tremendous box, arranged as a\\nsurprise.\\nTelegrams came popping in at all the big\\nstations along the way, enlivening our gloom,\\nand at the steamer there were such loads of\\nthings that we might almost have set up as\\na florist, or fruiterer, or bookseller. Such a\\nlapful of steamer letters and telegrams! I\\nread a few each morning, and some of them\\nI read every morning!\\nI don^t like ocean travel. They sent grape-\\nfruit and confections to my state-room, which\\nI tossed out of the port-hole. You know\\nthere are some people who think you don t\\nknow what you want. I travelled horizon-\\ntally most of the way, and now people roar\\nwhen I say I wasn t ill. Well, I wasn t, you\\nknow. We^ well, Teddy would not lil^ me\\nto be more explicit. I own to a horrible\\nheadache which never left me. I deny every-\\nthing else. Let them laugh. I was there,\\nand I know.\\nThe steamer I went on allows men to\\n15", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsmoke on all the decks, and thej all smoked\\nin my face. It did not help me. I mnst say\\nthat I was unspeakably thankful to get my\\nfoot on dry ground once more. When we\\ngot to the dock a special train of toy cars\\ntook us through the greenest of green land-\\nscapes, and suddenly, almost before we knew\\nit, we were at Waterloo Station, and knew\\nthat London was at our door.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "II\\nLONDON\\nPeople said to me, What are you going\\nto London for I said, To get an English\\npoint of view. Very well, said one of\\nthe knowing ones, who has lived abroad the\\nlarger part of his life, then yon must go to\\nThe Insular, in Piccadilly. That is not\\nonly the smartest hotel in London, but it is\\nthe most typically British. The rooms are\\nlet from season to season to the best coun-\\ntry families. There you will find yourself\\nplunged headlong into English life with not\\nan American environment to bless yourself\\nwith, and you will soon get your English\\npoint of view.\\nAh-h, responded the simpleton who\\ngoes by my name, that is what we want.\\nWe will go to The Insular.\\nWe wrote at once for rooms, and then tele-\\ngraphed for them from Southampton.\\nThe steamer did not land her passengers\\nuntil the morning of the ninth day, which\\nshows the vast superiority of going on a fast\\nn 17", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nboat, which gets you in fully as much as fif-\\nteen or twenty minutes ahead of the slow\\nones.\\nOur luggage would not go on even a four-\\nwheeler, so we took a dear little private\\nbus and proceeded to put our mountainous\\nAmerican trunks on it. We filled the top of\\nthis bus as full as it would hold, and put\\neverything else inside. After stowing our-\\nselves in there would not have been room\\neven for another umbrella.\\nIn this fashion we reached The Insu-\\nlar, where we were received by four or five\\ngorgeous creatures in livery, the head one of\\nwhom said, Miss Columbia I admitted\\nit, and we were ushered in, where we were\\nmet by more belonging to this tribe of gor-\\ngeousness, another of whom said, Miss\\nColumbia\\nYes, I said, firmly, privately wondering\\nif they were trying to trip me into admitting\\nthat I was somebody else.\\nThe housekeeper will be here presently,\\nsaid this person. She is expecting you.\\nForth came the housekeeper.\\nMiss Columbia she said.\\nOnce again I said Yes, patiently, stand-\\ning on my other foot.\\nIf you will be good enough to come with\\nme I will show you your rooms.\\nA door opened outward, disclosing a little\\n18", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "A S S E E N BY ME\\nsquare place with two cane-bottomed chairs.\\nA man bounced out so suddenly that I nearly\\nannihilated my sister, who was back of me.\\nI could not imagine what this little cubby-\\nhole was, but as there seemed to be nowhere\\nelse to go, I went in. The others followed,\\nthen the man who had bounced out. He\\nclosed the door and shut us in, where we\\nstood in solemn silence. About a quarter of\\nan hour afterwards I thought I saw some-\\nthing through the glass moving slowly down-\\nward, and then an infinitesimal thrill in the\\nsoles of my feet led me to suspect the truth.\\nIs this thing an elevator I whispered\\nto my sister.\\n1^0, they call it a lift over here, she\\nwhispered back.\\nI know that, I murmured, impatiently.\\nBut is this thing it Are we moving Are\\nwe going anywhere\\nWhy, of course, my dear. They are\\nslower than ours, that s all.\\nI listened to her with some misgivings, for\\nher information is not always to be wholly\\ntrusted, but this time it happened that she\\nwas right, for after a while we came to the\\nfourth floor, where our rooms were.\\nI wish you could have seen the size of\\nthem. I shall not attempt to describe them,\\nfor you would not believe me. I had en-\\ngaged two rooms and a bath. The .two\\n19", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nrooms were there. Where is the bath I\\nsaid. The housekeeper lovingly removed a\\ngigantic crash towel from a hideous tin ob-\\nject, and proudly exposed to my vision that\\nobject which is next dearest to his silk hat\\nto an Englishman s heart a hip-bath tub.\\nHer manner said, Beat that if you can.\\nMy sister prodded me in the back with\\nher umbrella, which in our sign language\\nmeans, Don t make a scene.\\nVery well, I said, rather meekly.\\nHave our trunks sent up.\\nVery good, madam.\\nShe went away, and then we rang the bell\\nand began to order what were to us the barest\\nnecessities of life. We were tired and lame\\nand sleepy from a night spent at the pier\\nlanding the luggage, and we wanted things\\nwith which to make ourselves comfortable.\\nThere was a pocket edition of a fireplace,\\nand they brought us a hatful of the vilest soft\\ncoal, which peppered everything in the rooms\\nwith soot.\\nWe climbed over our trunks to sit by this\\nimitation of a fire, only to find that there was\\nnothing to sit on but the most uncompromis-\\ning of straight-backed chairs.\\nWe groaned as we took in the situation.\\nTo our poor, racked frames a coal-hod would\\nnot have suggested more discomfort. We\\ndragged up our hampers, packed with\\n20", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsteamer-rugs and pillows, and my sister sat\\non hers wliile I took another turn at the bell.\\nWhile the maid is answering this bell I shall\\nhave plenty of time to tell you what we\\nafterwards discovered the process of bell-\\nringing in an English hotel to be.\\nWe rang our bell. Presently we heard the\\nmost horrible gong, such as we use on our\\npatrol wagons and fire-engines at home. This\\nclanged four times. Then a second bell down\\nthe hall answered it. Then feet flew by our\\ndoor. At this juncture my sister and I pre-\\npared to let ourselves down the fire-escape.\\nBut we soon discovered that those flying feet\\nbelonged to the poor maid, whom that gong\\nhad signalled that she v/as wanted on the\\nfourth floor. She flew to a speaking-tube and\\nasked who on the fourth floor wanted her.\\nShe was then given the number of our room,\\nwhen she rang a bell to signify that our call\\nwas answered, by which time she was at lib-\\nerty, and knocked at our door, saying, in her\\nsoft English voice, Did you ring, miss\\nWe told her we wanted rocking-chairs.\\nShe said there was not one in the house. Then\\neasy-chairs, we said, or anything cushioned\\nor low or comfortable. She said the house-\\nkeeper had no easier chairs.\\nWe sat down on our hampers, and my sis-\\nter leaned against the corner of the wardrobe\\nwith a pillow at her back to keep from being\\n21", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncut in two. I propped my back against the\\nwash-stand, which did very Y\\\\^ell, except that\\nthe wash-stand occasionally slid away from\\nme.\\nThis/ said my sister, impressively, is\\nEngland.\\nWe had been here only half an hour, but I\\nhad already got my point of view.\\nLet s go out and look up a hotel where\\nthey take Americans, I said. I feel the\\nneed of ice-water.\\nOur drinking-water at The Insular was\\non the end of the wash-stand nearest the fire.\\nSo, feeling a little timid and nervous, but\\nnot in the least homesick, we went down-\\nstairs. One of our gorgeous retinue called a\\ncab and we entered it.\\nWhere shall we go asked my sister.\\nI feel like saying to the first hotel we\\nsee, I said.\\nJust then we raised our eyes and they\\nrested simultaneously upon a sign, The\\nEmpire Hotel for Cats and Dogs. This\\nsimple solution of our difiiculty put us in\\nsuch high good humor that we said we\\nwouldn t look up a hotel just yet we would\\ntake a drive.\\nUnder these circumstances we took our\\nfirst drive down Piccadilly, and Europe to\\nme dates from that moment. The ship, the\\nlanding, the custom-house, the train, the\\n22", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhotel all these were mere preliminaries to\\nthe Europe, which began then. People told\\nme in America how mj heart would swell at\\nthis, and how I would thrill at that, but it was\\nnot so. My first real thrill came to me in Pic-\\ncadilly. It went all over me in little shivers\\nand came out at the ends of my fingers, and\\nthen began once more at the base of my brain\\nand did it all over again.\\nBut what is the use of describing one s\\nfirst view of London streets and trafiic to the\\ninitiated Can they, who became used to it\\nas children, appreciate it Can they look\\nback and recall how it struck them? No.\\nWhen I try to tell Americans over here they\\nlook at me curiously and say, Dear me,\\nhow odd! The way they say it leaves me\\nto draw any one of three conclusions either\\nthey are not impressionable, and are there-\\nfore honest in denying the feeling; or they\\nthink it vulgar to admit it or I am the only\\ngrown person in America who never has been\\nto Europe before.\\nBut I am indifferent to their opinion.\\nPeople are right in saying this great tre-\\nmendous rush of feeling can come but once.\\nIt is like being in love for the first time. You\\nlike it and yet you don t like it. You wish\\nit would go away, yet you fear that it will go\\nall too soon. It gets into your head and\\nmakes you dizzy, and you want to shut your\\n23", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\neyes, but you are afraid if you do that you\\nwill miss something. You cannot eat and\\nyou cannot sleep, and you feel that you have\\ntwo consciousnesses: one which belongs to\\nthe life you have lived hitherto, and which\\nstill is going on, somewhere in the world, un-\\nmindful of you, and you unmindful of it;\\nand the other is this new bliss which is beat-\\ning in your veins and sounding in your ears\\nand shining before your eyes, which no one\\nknows and no one dreams of, but which keeps\\na smile on your lips a smile which has in it\\nnothing of humor, nothing from the great\\nwithout, but which comes from the secret\\nrecesses of your own inner consciousness,\\nwhere the heart of the matter lies.\\nI remember nothing definite about that\\nfirst drive. I,. for my part, saw with unsee-\\ning eyes. My sister had seen it all before, so\\nshe had the power of speech. Occasionally\\nshe prodded me and cried, Look, oh look\\nquickly. But I never swerved. I can t\\nlook. If I do I shall miss something. You\\nattend to your own window and I ll attend to\\nmine. Coming back I will see your side.\\nWhen we got beyond the shops I said to\\nthe cabman:\\nDo you know exactly the way you have\\ncome\\nYes, miss, he said.\\nThen go back precisely the same way.\\n24", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nHave you lost something, miss V^ he in-\\nquired.\\nYes/ I said, I have lost an impres-\\nsion, and I must look till I find it.\\nVery good, miss, he said.\\nIf I had said, I have carelessly let fall\\nmy cathedral, or, I have lost my orang-\\noutang. Look for him! an^ imperturba-\\nble British cabby would only touch his cap\\nand say, Very good, miss\\nSo we followed our_own trail back to The\\nInsular. In this way, I said to my sister,\\nwe both get a complete view. To-morrow\\nwe will do it all over again.\\nBut we found that we could not wait for\\nthe morrow. We did it all over again that\\nafternoon, and that second time I was able\\nin a measure to detach myself from the hum\\nand buzz and the dizzying effect of foreign\\nfaces, and I began to locate impressions. My\\nfirst distinct recollections are of the great\\nnumbers of high hats on the men, the ill-\\nhanging skirts and big feet of the women, the\\nunsteadying effect of all those thousands of\\ncabs, carriages, and carts all going to the left,\\nwhich kept me constantly wishing to shriek\\nout, Go to the right or we ll all be killed,\\nthe absolutely perfect manner in which traffic\\nwas managed, and the majestic authority of\\nthe London police.\\nI have seen the Houses of Parliament and", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe Tower and Westminster Abbey, and the\\nWorld s Fair, but the most impressive sight\\nI ever beheld is the upraised hand of a Lon-\\ndon policeman. I never heard one of them\\nspeak except when spoken to. Bnt let one\\nlittle blue-coated man raise his forefinger\\nand every vehicle on wheels stops, and stops\\ninstantly; stops in obedience to law and or-\\nder; stops without swearing or gesticulating\\nor abuse; stops with no underhanded trying\\nto drive out of line and get by on the other\\nside; just stops, that is the end of it. And\\nwhy Because the Queen of England is be-\\nhind that raised finger. A London police-\\nman has more power than our President.\\nEven the Queen s coachmen obey that fore-\\nfinger. ISTot long ago she dismissed one who\\ndared to drive even the royal carriage on in\\ndefiance of it. Understanding ho^ to obey,\\nthat is what makes liberty.\\nI am the most flamboyant of Americans,\\nthe most hopelessly addicted to my own\\ncountry, but I must admit that I had my first\\nreal taste of liberty in England.\\nI will tell you why. In America nobody\\nobeys anybody. We make our laws, and then\\nmost industriously set about studying out a\\nplan by which we may evade them. America\\nis suffering, as all republics must of neces-\\nsity suffer, from liberty in the hands of the\\nmultitude. The multitude are ignorant, and\\n26", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nliberty in the hands of the ignorant is always\\nlicense.\\nIn America, the land of the free, whom\\ndo we fear The President No, God bless\\nhim. There is not a true American in the\\nworld who would not stand up as a man or a\\nwoman and go into his presence without fear.\\nAre we afraid of our Senators, our chief\\nrulers No. But we are afraid of our ser-\\nvants, of our street-car conductors. We are\\nafraid of sleeping-car porters, and the\\ndrivers of huge trucks. We are afraid they\\nwill drive over us in the streets, and if we\\ndare to assert our rights and hold them in\\ncheck we are afraid of what they will say to\\nus, in the name of liberty, and of the way\\nthey will look at us, in the name of liberty.\\nEnglish servants, I have discovered, have\\nno more respect for Americans than the old-\\ntime negro of the Southern aristocracy has\\nfor Northerners. I once asked an old black\\nmammy in Georgia why the negroes had so\\nlittle respect for the white ladies of the\\nNorth. Case dey don know how to treat\\nblack folks, honey. Why don t they? I\\npersisted. Are they not kind to you\\nUmph, she responded (and no one who\\nhas never heard a fat old negress say\\n^^Umph knows the eloquence of it). Umph.\\nDat s it. Dey s too kin Dey don know\\nhow to mek us min And that is just the\\n27", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntrouble with Americans here. An English\\nservant takes orders, not requests.\\nI had such a time to learn that. We could\\nnot understand why we were obeyed so well\\nat first, and presently, without any outward\\ndisrespect, our wants were simply ignored\\nuntil all the English people had been at-\\ntended to.\\nMy sister had told me I was too polite, but\\none never believes one s sister, so I questioned\\nour sweet English friends, and they, with\\nmuch delicacy and many apologies, and the\\nprettiest hesitation in the world considering\\nthe situation told us the reason.\\nBut, I gasped, if I should speak to\\nour servants in that manner they would\\nleave. They would not stay over night.\\nOur English friends tried not to smile in a\\nsuperior way, and they succeeded, only I\\nknew the smile was there, and said, Oh, no,\\nour servants never leave us. They apologize\\nfor having done it wrong.\\nOn the way home I plucked up courage.\\nI am going to try it, I said, firmly. My\\nsister laughed in derision.\\nNow I could do it, she said, complai-\\nsantly. And so she could. My sister never\\nplumes herself on a quality she does not pos-\\nsess.\\nAre you going to use the tone and every-\\nthing I said, somewhat timidly.\\n28", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nYou wait and see.\\nShe hesitated some time, I noticed, before\\nshe rang the bell, and she looked at herself in\\nthe glass and cleared her throat. I knew she\\nwas bracing herself.\\nI ll ring the bell if you like, I said,\\npolitely.\\nShe gave one look at me and then rang the\\nbell herself with a firm hand.\\nAnd I ll get behind you with a poker in\\none hand and a pitcher of hot water in the\\nother. Speak when you need either.\\nYou feel very funny when you don t\\nhave to do it yourself, she said, wither ingly.\\nYou ll never put it through. You ll back\\ndown and say please before you have fin-\\nished, I said, and just then the maid\\nknocked at the door.\\nI never heard anything like it. My sister\\nwas superb. I doubt if Bernhardt at her\\nbest ever inspired me with more awe. How\\nthat maid flew around. How humble she\\nwas. How she apologized. And how, every\\ntime my sister said, Look sharp, now, the\\nmaid said, Thank you. I thought I should\\ndie. I was so much interested in the dra-\\nmatic possibilities of my cherished sister that\\nwhen the door closed behind the maid we\\nsimply looked at each other a moment, then\\nsimultaneously made a bound for the bed,\\nwliere we choked with laughter among tlie\\n29", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\npillows. Presently we sat up with flushed\\nfaces and rumpled hair. I reached over and\\nshook hands with her.\\nHow was that she asked.\\nTwas grand/ I said. The Queen\\ncouldn t have done it more to the manner\\nborn.\\nMy sister accepted my compliments coul-\\nplaisantly, as one who should say, Tis no\\nmore than my deserts.\\nHow firm you were, I said, admiringly.\\nWasn t I, though?\\nHow humble she was.\\nWasn t she\\nYou were quite as disagreeable and de-\\ntermined as a real Englishwoman would\\nhave been.\\nSo I was.\\nA pause full of intense admiration on my\\npart. Then she said, You couldn t have\\ndone it.\\nI know that.\\nYou are so deadly civil.\\nJSTot to everybody, only to servants. I\\nsaid this apologetically.\\nYou never keep a steady hand. You\\neither grovel at their feet or snap their heads\\noff.\\nQuite true, I admitted, humbly.\\nBut it was grand, wasn t it she said.\\nUnspeakably grand.\\n30", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAnd for Americans it was.\\nWe were still at The Insular/ when\\none day I took up a handful of what had\\nonce been a tight bodfse, and said to my sis-\\nter\\nSee how thin I ve grown! I believe I\\nam starving to death.\\nISTo wonder, she answered, gloomily,\\nwith this awful English cooking I m\\nnearly dead from your experiment of getting\\nan English point of view. I want something\\nto eat\u00e2\u0080\u0094 something that I lihe. I want a beef-\\nsteak, with mushrooms, and some potatoes\\nau gratm, like those we have in America. I\\nhate the stuff we get here. I wish I could\\nnever see another chop as long as I live.\\nThe Insular is considered very good,\\nI remarked, pensively.\\nConsidered cried she. Whose con-\\nsideration counts, I should like to know,\\nwhen you are always hungry for something\\nyou can t get\\nI know it and we are paying such prices,\\ntoo. Who, except ostriches, could eat their\\nnasty preserves for breakfast when they are\\nhaving grape-fruit at home And then their\\nvile aspic jellies and potted meats for hmch-\\neon, which look like sausage congealed in\\ncold gravy, and which taste like gum arable.\\nLet s move, said my sister. ^ot into\\nanother hotel that wouldn t be much better.\\n31", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nBut let s take lodgings. IVe heard that they\\nAvere lovely. Then we can order what we\\nlike. Besides, it will be very much chea]3er.\\nI didn t come ove^ here to economize/ I\\nsaid.\\nWell, I wouldn t say a word if we were\\ngetting anything for our money, but we are\\nnot. Besides, when you get to Paris you\\nwill Avish you hadn t been so extravagant\\nhere.\\nAre the Paris shops more fascinating\\nthan those in Regent Street I asked.\\nMuch more.\\nMore alluring than Bond Street\\nMore so than any in the world, she af-\\nfirmed,, with the religious fervor which al-\\nways characterizes her tone when she speaks\\nof Paris. The very leather of her purse\\nfairly squeaks, with ecstasy when she thinks\\nof Paris.\\nHeavens I murmured, with awe, for\\nwhenever she won t go to Du Maurier s grave\\nwith me, and w^hen I won t do the crown jew-\\nels in the Tower with her, we always com-\\npromise amiably on Bond Street, and come\\nhome beaming with joy.\\nWe might go now just to look, I said.\\nI have the addresses of some very good\\nlodgings.\\nWe ll take a cab by the hour, said she,\\nputting her hat on before the mirror, and\\n32", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nturning her head on one side to view her\\ncompleted handiwork.\\nNow take off that watch and that belt\\nand that chatelaine if you don t want these\\nharpies to think we are rich Americans\\n(how I have come to hate that phrase over\\nhere!), because they will charge accord-\\ningly.\\nShe looked at me with genuine admira-\\ntion.\\nDo you know, dear, you are really\\nclever at times\\nI colored with pleasure. It is so seldom\\nthat she finds anything practical in me to\\npraise.\\nNow mind, we are just going to look,\\nshe cautioned, as we rang a bell. We\\nmust not do anything in a hurry.\\nWe came out half an hour afterwards and\\ngot into the cab without looking at each\\nother.\\nIt was very unbusinesslike, said she, se-\\nverely. You never do anything right.\\nBut it was so gloriously impudent of\\nus, I urged. First, we wanted lodgings.\\nThis was a boarding-house. Second, we\\nwanted two bed-rooms and a drawing-room.\\nThey had only one drawing-room in the\\nhouse could we have that l^es, we\\ncould. So we took their whole first floor,\\nand made them promise to serve our break-", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfasts in bed, and our other meals in their\\nbest drawing-room, and turned a boarding-\\nhouse into a lodging-house, all inside of half\\nan hour. It was lovely\\nIt was bad business, said she. We\\ncould have got it for less, but you are always\\nin such a hurry. If you like a thing, and\\nanybody says you may have it for fifty,\\nyou always, say, I ll give you seventy-five.\\nYou re so afraid to think a thing over.\\nSecond thoughts are never as much\\nfun as first thoughts, I urged. Second\\nthoughts are always so sensible and reason-\\nable and approved of.\\nHow do you know asked my sister,\\nwither ingly. You never waited for any.\\nThe next day we moved. Everybody said\\nour rooms were charming, and that they were\\ncheap, for I told how much we paid, much to\\nmy sister s disgust. She is such a lady.\\nWe have cut down our expenses so\\nmuch, I said, looking arotmd on the drab\\nwalls and the dun-colored carpets, don t\\nyou think we might have a few flowers\\nI believe you took this place for the bal-\\ncony, so that you could put daisies around the\\nedge and in the window-boxes she cried.\\n]^o, I didn t. But the houses in Lon-\\ndon are so pretty with their flowers. Don t\\nyou think we might have a few\\nWell, go and get them. I ve got to\\n34", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "AS SEiiN BY ME\\nwrite the home letter to-daj if it is to catch\\nthe Southampton boat.\\nI came home with six huge pahus, two\\nJune roses, some pink heather, a jar of\\nmarguerites, and I had ordered the balcony\\nand window-boxes filled. My sister helped\\nme to place them, but when hcx* back was\\nturned I arranged them over again. I can t\\ntie a veil on the way she can, but I can ar-\\nrange flowers to look well, I won t boast.\\nOur landladies were two middle-aged,\\ncomfortable sisters. We called them The\\nTabbies, meaning no disrespect to cats,\\neither. I thought they took rather too vio-\\nlent an interest in our affairs, but I said\\nnothing until one day after w^e had been\\nsettled nearly a week. I was seated in my\\nown private room trying to write. My sis-\\nter came in, evidently disturbed by some-\\nthing.\\nDo you know, she said, that our land-\\nlady just asked me how much you paid for\\nthose strawberries And when I told her she\\nsaid that that made them come to fourpence\\napiece, and that they were very dear. ISTow,\\nhow did she know that they were strawber-\\nries, or how many were in each box, I d like\\nto know\\nProbably she opened the package, I\\nsaid.\\nExactly what I think. ^Now I won t\\n35", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nstand that. And then she asked me not to\\nset things on the mahogany tables. It s\\njust because we are Americans She never\\nwould dare treat English people that way.\\nShe has not sufficient respect for us.\\nThen tell her to be more respectful tell\\nher we are very highly thought of at home.\\nShe wouldn t care for that.\\nThen tell her we have a few rich rela-\\ntions and quite a number of influential\\nfriends.\\nPooh\\nAnd if that does not fetch her, there is\\nnothing left to do but to be quite rude to her,\\nand then she will know that we belong to the\\nvery highest society. But what do you care\\nwhat a middle-class landlady thinks, just so\\nshe lets you alone\\nMy sister meditated, and I added;\\nIf you would just snub her once, in\\nyour most ladylike way, it would settle her.\\nAs for me, I am satisfied to think we are\\npaying much less, and we are twice as com-\\nfortable as we were at the hotel and we get\\nsuch good things to eat that our skeletons are\\nfilling ou.t, and once more our clothes fit.\\nThat is so, said she, letting her\\nthoughts wander to the number of hooks in\\nher closet. We do have more room, and\\nI think our drawing-room with its palms and\\nflowers will look lovely to-morrow.\\n36", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nDo you think it was wise/ slie added,\\nto ask all those men to come at once\\nOh yes let them all come together,\\nthen we can weed them out afterwards. You\\nnever can have too many men.\\nI am glad you have asked in a few\\nwomen.\\nWh}^ I demanded. Are you in-\\nsinuating that we are not equal to a handful\\nof Englishmen Kecall the Boston tea-\\nparty. We will give them the first straw-\\nberries of the season, and plenty of tea.\\nFeed them; that s the main thing, I said,\\nfirmly, taking up my pen and looking\\nsteadily at her.\\nI ll go, she said, hastily. Do you\\nhave to go to the bank to-day? You know\\nto-morrow we must pay our weekly bill.\\nIt won t be much, I said, cheerfully\\nI am sure I have enough.\\nThe next day the bill came. Our land-\\nlady sent it up on the breakfast-tray. I\\nopened it, then shrieked for my sister. It\\ncovered four pages of note-paper.\\nFor heaven s sake what is the matter\\nshe cried. Has anything happened to\\nBilly\\nBilly This thing is not an American\\nletter. It is the bill for our cheap lodgings.\\nLook at it! Look at the extras gas, coals,\\nwashing bed linen, washing table linen,\\n37", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwashing towels, kitchen fires, service, oil for\\nthree lamps, afternoon tea, and three shil-\\nlings for sundries on the fourth page What\\ncan sundries include? She hasn t skipped\\nanything but pew-rent.\\nMy sister looked at the total, and buried\\nher face in the pillows to smother a groan.\\nEing the bell, I said I want the\\nmaid.\\nWhat are you going to do\\nI m going to find out what sundries\\nare.\\nShe gave the bell-cord such a pull that she\\nbroke the wdre, and it fell down on her\\nhead.\\nThat, too, will go in the bill. Wrap\\nyour handkerchief around your hand and\\ngive the wire a jerk. Give it a good one. I\\ndon t care if it brings the police.\\nThe maid came.\\nMartha, present my compliments to\\nMrs. Black, and ask her what sundries\\ninclude.\\nMartha came back smiling.\\nPlease, miss, Mrs. Black s compliments,\\nand sundries means that you complained\\nthat the coffee was muddy, and after that\\nshe cleared it with an egg. Sundries\\nmeans the e2:s:s.\\nMartha, I said, weakly.\\nto-\\nthose Crown salts. No, no, I forgot; those\\n38", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nare Mrs. Black s salts. Take them out and\\ntell lier I only smelled them once.\\nMartha, said my sister, dragging my\\npurse out from under my pillow, here is\\nsixpence not to tell Mrs. Black anything.\\nThen when Martha disappeared she said,\\nHow often have I told you not to jest with\\nservants\\nI forgot, I said, humbly. But Mar-\\ntha has a sense of humor, don t you think\\nI never thought anything about it. But\\nwhat are you going to do about that bill\\nI m going to argue about it, and declare\\nI won t pay it, and then pay it like a true\\nAmerican. Would you have me upset the tra-\\nditions But I ve got to go to the bank first.\\nI did just as I said. I argued to no\\navail. Mrs. Black was quite haughty, and\\nmade me feel like a chimney-sweep. I paid\\nher in full, and when I came up I said\\nYou are quite right. She has a poor\\nopinion of us. When I asked her how long\\nit would take to drive to a house in West\\nEnd, she said, Why do you want to know V\\nI said I wanted to see the house.\\nDidn t you tell her we were invited\\nthere asked my sister, scandalized.\\nNo I said I had heard a good deal\\nabout the house, and she said it was open to\\nthe public on Fridays. So I said we d go\\nthen.\\n39", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN. BY ME\\nI think yon are horrid V cried Bee.\\nThe insolence of that woman And you\\nactually think it is funny! You think\\neverything is funny.\\nI soothed her by pointing out some of the\\nthings which I considered sad, notably Eng-\\nlish people trying to enjoy themselves. Then\\nthe men began to drop in for tea, and that\\nsucceeded in making her forget her troubles.\\nReggie and the Duke arrived together.\\nMy sister at once took charge of the Duke,\\nwhile Reggie said to me, I say, what sort\\nof creature is the old girl below V\\nNot a very good sort, I am afraid.\\nWhy? What has she done now?\\nWhy, she stopped Abingdon and me\\nand asked us to wipe our shoes.\\nShe asked the Duke of Abingdon to\\nwipe his shoes I gasped, in a whisper.\\nYes and Freddie, who was just ahead\\nof us, turned back and said, My good\\nwoman, was the cab very dirty, do you\\nthink?\\nOh, don t tell my sister She has al-\\nmost died of Mrs. Black already to-day;\\nthis would finish her completely.\\nWell, you must give your woman a\\ntalking to a regular going over, d ye know\\nTell her you ll be the mistress of the whole\\nblooming house or you ll tear it to pieces.\\nThat s the way to talk to em. I told my\\n40", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nlandlady in Edinburgh once that I d chnck\\nher out of the window if she spoke to nie\\nuntil she was spoken to. She came up and\\nrapped on the door one Saturday night at\\nten o clock, when I had some fellows there,\\nand told me to send those men home and\\ngo to bed.\\nThen she isn t taking advantage of us\\nbecause we are Americans, the way the cab-\\nmen do\\nOh yes, I dare say she is but you must\\nstand up to her. They re a set of thieves,\\nthe whole of em. I say, that s a pretty\\npicture you ve got pinned up there.\\nThat s to hide a hole in the lace cur-\\ntain, I explained, gratuitously. Then I\\nremembered, and glanced apprehensively\\nat my sister, but fortunately she had not\\nheard me. That is one of the pictures\\nfrom Truth, an American magazine. I al-\\nways save the middle picture when it is\\npretty, and pin it up on the wall.\\nThat is one thing where the States are\\naway ahead of us in their illustrated mag-\\nazines.\\nDon t say the States! I ve told you\\nbefore. I didn t know you ever admitted\\nthat anything Vv^as better in America.\\nReggie only smiled affably. He ignored\\nmy offer of battle, and said\\nAbingdon is asking your sister to dine.\\n41", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI m asked, and Freddie and his wife, and I\\nthink yon will enjoy it.\\nWhen they were all gone I marched down-\\nstairs to Mrs. Black without saying a word\\nto any one. When I came up I found my\\nsister hanging over the banisters.\\nWhat is the matter What have you\\ndone I knew you were angry by the way\\nyou looked.\\nIt was lovely! I said. I sent for\\nMrs. Black, and said, Mrs. Black, do you\\nknow the name of the gentleman whom you\\nasked to wipe his shoes to-day V No/ said\\nshe. It was the Duke of Abingdon, I\\nsaid, sternly, well knowing the unspeakable\\nreverence which the middle-class English\\nhave for a title. She turned purple. She\\nfell back against the wall, muttering, The\\nDuke of Abingdon! The Duke of Abing-\\ndon! I believe she is still leaning up\\nagainst the wall muttering that holy name.\\nA title to Mrs. Black!\\nThe next day both the Tabbies were curt-\\nsying in the hall when we started out. We\\nwere going on a coach to Richmond with\\nJulia and her husband, and another Ameri-\\ncan girl, and then Julia s husband was going\\nto row us up the Thames to Hampton Court\\nfor tea, and they were all going to dine with\\nus at Scott s when we got home.\\nIt was a lovely day. The trees w^ere a\\n42", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "AS SE^EN BY ME\\nmass of bloom, and everybody ought to have\\nenjoyed himself. We were having a very\\ngood time of it among ourselves reading the\\nabsurd signs, until we noticed the three girls\\nwho sat opposite to us. They had serious\\nfaces, and long, consumptive teeth, which\\nthey never succeeded in completely hiding.\\nI knew just hoAV they would look when they\\nw^ere dead I knew that those two long front\\nteeth would still They listened to all we\\nsaid w^ithout a flicker of the eyelashes. Oc-\\ncasionally they looked down at the size of the\\nAmerican girl s little feet and then involun-\\ntarily drew their own back out of sight.\\nPresently I espied a sign, Funerals,\\nfor this week only, at half price. I seized\\nJulia s hand. Stop, oh, stop the coacli\\nand let s get a funeral! We may never\\nhave an opportunity to get a bargain in\\nfunerals again. And the sale lasts only\\none week. Everybody told me before I\\ncame away to get what I wanted at the\\nmoment I saw it; not to wait, thinking I\\nwould come back. So unless we order one\\nnow we may have to pay the full price.\\nAnd a funeral would be such a good invest-\\nment; it would keep forever. You d never\\nfeel like using it before you actually needed\\nit. Do let me get one now!\\nOf course, Julia, my sister, and Julia s\\nhusband v/ere in gales of laughter but what\\n48", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfinished me off was to see three serious ereat-\\nures opposite rise as if pulled by one string,\\nlook in an anxious way at me and then at\\nthe sign, while the teeth began to say to\\neach other What did she say What\\ndoes she mean? What does she want a\\nfuneral for V\\nWe had a lovely day, but everybody we\\nmet on the river looked very unhappy, and\\nnobody seemed to be at all glad that we were\\nthere or that we were rising to the occasion.\\nWhen we got home I was too tired to notice\\nthings, but my sister, who sees everything,\\nwhispered\\nI verily believe they ve put down a new\\nstair-carpet to-day.^\\nThe next morning such a sight met our\\nastonished eyes. There was a new carpet\\non the hall. There were new curtains in\\nour drawing-room. All the covers had been\\nremoved from their sacred furniture. Brass\\nandirons replaced the old ones. The piano\\nhad a new cover. There was a rocking-chair\\nfor each (we had only one before), and while\\nwe were still speechless with amazement\\nMrs. Black came in with our bill.\\nI have been thinking this over since yes-\\nterday, and I have decided that as long as\\nyou did not understand about the extras,\\nit would be no more than right that I should\\ntake them off. So I owe you this.\\n44", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI took the money, and it dropped from\\nmy nerveless fingers. Mrs. Black picked\\nit up and put it on the table the mahogany\\ntable.\\nYou see I propped your palms for you\\nin your absence, and I repotted four of them.\\nI thought they would grow better. Here\\nare some periodicals I sent to the library for,\\nthinking you might like to look at them,\\nand I put my new calendar over your writ-\\ning-desk. E ow, is there any little delicacy\\nyou would like for your luncheon V\\nWhile Bee was getting rid of her I made\\na few rapid mental calculations.\\nBee, I said, we are going to stay over\\nhere two years. Let s buy the Duke and\\ntake him with us.\\nThe reaction has come. I knew it would.\\nIt always does. It is a mortification to be\\nobliged to admit it in the face of London,\\nand all that we have had done for us, but\\nthe fact is we are homesick wretchedly,\\nbitterly homesick. I remember how, when\\nother people have been here and written\\nthat they were homesick, I have sniffed with\\ncontempt and have said to myself, What\\npoor taste! Just wait until my turn comes\\nto go to Europe I ll show them what it\\nis to enjoy everv moment of my stay\\n45", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nBut now dear me, I can remember that\\nI have made invidious remarks about ISlew\\nYork, and have objected to the odors in\\nChicago, and have hated the Illinois Central\\nturnstiles. But if I could be back in Ameri-\\nca I would not mind being caught in a turn-\\nstile all day. Dear America! Dear Lake\\nMichigan! Dear Chicago!\\nI have talked the matter over with my sis-\\nter, and we have decided that it must be the\\npeople, for certainly the novelty is not yet\\nworn off of this marvellous London. We\\nlike individually nearly every one whom we\\nhave met, but as a nation the English are to\\nme an acquired taste just like olives and\\nGerman opera.\\nTo explain. My friendly, volatile Amer-\\nican feelings are constantly being shocked at\\nthe massed and consolidated indifference of\\nEnglish men and women to each other.\\nThey care for nobody but themselves. In a\\ncertain sense this indifference to other peo-\\nple s opinions is very satisfactory. It\\nmakes you feel that no matter how outra-\\ngeous you wanted to be you could not cause\\na ripple of excitement or interest unless\\nRoyalty noticed your action. Then London\\nwould tread, itself to death in its efforts to\\nsee and hear you. But if an Englishman en-\\ntered a packed theatre on his hands with his\\nfeet in the air, and thus proceeded to make\\n46", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe rounds of the house, the audience would\\nonly give one glance, just to make sure that\\nit was nothing more abnormal than a man\\nin evening dress, carrying his crush-hat\\nbetween his feet and walking on his hands,\\nand then they would return to their exciting\\nconversation of where they were going to\\nshow after the play. Even the maids who\\nusher would not smile, but would stoop and\\nput his programme between his teeth for\\nhim, and turn to the next comer.\\nThe English mind their own business,\\nand we Americans are so used to interfering\\nwith each other, and minding everybody s\\nbusiness as well as our own, it makes us very\\nhomesick indeed, to find that we can do pre-\\ncisely as we please and be let entirely alone.\\nThe English who have been in America,\\nor those who have a single blessed drop of\\nIrish or Scotch blood in their veins, will\\nquite understand what I mean. Fortunate-\\nly for us we have found a few of these dif-\\nferent sorts, and they have kept us from sui-\\ncide. They warned us of the differences\\nwe would find. One man said to me:\\nWe English do not understand the mean-\\ning of the word hospitality compared to you\\nAmericans. ISTow in the States\\nStop right there, if you please, I beg-\\nged, and say America. It offends me to\\nbe called the States quite as much as if\\n47", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nyon called me the Colonies or the Prov-\\ninces\\nYon speak as if you were America/ he\\nsaid.\\nI am/ I replied.\\nNow that is jnst it. Yon Americans\\ncome over here nationally. We English\\ntravel individnally.\\nI was so startled at this acnte analysis\\nfrom a man whom I had always regarded as\\nan Englishman that I forgot my manners\\nand I said, Good heavens, yon are not all\\nEnglish, are yonf\\nMy father was Irish, he said.\\nI knew it I cried with joy. Please\\nshake hands with me again. I knew yon\\nweren t entirely English after that speech!\\nHe laughed.\\nI will shake hands with you, of course.\\nBut I am a typical Britisher. Please be-\\nlieve that.\\nI shall not. Y^ou are not typical. That\\nwas really a clever distinction and quite\\ntrue.\\nHe looked as if he were going to argue\\nthe point with me, so I hurried on. I al-\\nways get the worst of an argument, so I\\ntried to take his mind off his injury. Now\\nplease go on, I urged. It sounded .so in-\\nteresting.\\nWell, I was only going to say that in\\n48", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAmerica you are, as hosts, quite sincere in\\nwishing us to enjoy ourselves and to like\\nAmerica. Here we will only do our duty\\nby you if you bring letters to us, and we\\ndon t care a hang whether you like England\\nor not. We like it, and that s enough.\\nI see, I said, with cold chills of aver-\\nsion for England as a nation creeping over\\nmy enthusiasm.\\n^ow in America, he proceeded, your\\nhost sends his carriage for you, or calls for\\nyou, takes you with him, stays by you, in-\\ntroduces you to the people he thinks yOu\\nwould most care to meet, and tells them who\\nand what you are sees that you have every-\\nthing that s going, and that you see every-\\nthing that s going, and then takes you back\\nto your club.\\nThen he asks you if you have had a good\\ntime, and if you like America! I supple-\\nmented.\\nOh, Lord, yes He asks you that all\\nthe time, and so does everybody else, he\\nsaid, with a groan.\\nNow, you were unkind if you didn t\\ntell him all he w^anted you to, for I do as-\\nsure you it was pure American kindness\\nof heart which made him take all that\\ntrouble for you. I know, too, without your\\ntelling me, that he introduced you to all\\nthe prettiest girls, and gave you a chance\\nI) 49", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nto talk to eacli of them, and only hovered\\naround waiting to take yon on to the next\\none, as soon as he could catch you with\\nease.^\\nHe did just that. How did you know\\nBecause he was a typical American host,\\nGod bless him, and that is the way we do\\nthings over there.\\nI^ow here, he went on, we consider\\nour duty done if we take a man to dine, and\\nthen to some reception, where we turn him\\nloose after one or two introductions.\\nWhat a hateful way of doing I said,\\npolitely.\\nIt is. It must seem barbarous to you.\\nIt does.\\nOr if you are a woman we send our car-\\nriages to let you drive where you like. Or\\nwe send you invitations to go to needlework\\nexhibitions where you have to pay five shil-\\nlings admission.\\nI said nothing, and he laughed.\\nI know they have done that to you, he\\nexclaimed. Haven t they V\\nI have been delightfully entertained at\\nluncheons and dinners and teas, and I have\\nbeen introduced to as charming people in\\nLondon as I ever hope to meet anywhere,\\nI said, stolidly.\\nBut you won t tell about the needle-\\nwork. Oh, I say, but that s jolly! Fancy\\n50", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "AS SE.EN BY ME\\nwhat you said when jou began to get those\\nbeastly things And he laughed again.\\nI didn t say anything, I said. Then\\nhe roared. Yet he claimed to be a typical\\nBritisher.\\nWe mean kindly, he went on. Y^ou\\nmustn t lay it up against us.\\nOh, we don t. We are having a lovely\\ntime.\\nThere are times when the truth would be\\nbrutal.\\nThen this oasis of a man, this typical\\nBritisher, went away, and my sister and I\\ndressed for the theatre. A friend had sent\\nus her box, and assured us that it was per-\\nfectly proper for us to go alone. So we\\nwent. Up to this time we had not hint-\\ned to each other that we were homesick.\\nThe play was most amusing, yet we couldn t\\nhelp watching the audience. Such a bored-\\nlooking set, the women with frizzled hair\\nheld down by invisible nets, mingling with\\ntheir eyebrows, and done hideously in the\\nback. Low necked go^vns, exhibiting the\\nmost beautiful shoulders in the world.\\nGorgeous jewels in their hair and gleaming\\nall over their bodices, but among half a doz-\\nen emerald, turquoise, and diamond brace-\\nlets there would appear a silver-watch brace-\\nlet which cost not over ten dollars, and\\nspoiled the effect of all the others.\\n51", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "ASSEEN BY ME\\nEnglish women as a race are the worst-\\ndressed women in the world. I saw thou-\\nsands of them in Piccadilly and Regent\\nStreet, and at Chnrch Parade in the Park,\\nwith high, French-heeled slippers over color-\\ned stockings. And as to sizes, I should say\\nnines were the average. There are some\\nsmaller, but the most are larger.\\nThe Prince of Wales was in the box oppo-\\nsite to ours, and when we were not looking at\\nhim we gazed at the impassive faces of the\\naudience. They never smiled. They never\\nlaughed. The subtlest points in the play\\nwent unnoticed, yet it is one which has had\\na record run and bids fair to keep the boards\\nfor the rest of the season.\\nSuddenly my sister, although we had not\\nspoken of the homesickness that was weigh-\\ning us down, touched my arm and said,\\nLook quick 1 There s one\\nWhere? Where?\\nDown there just in front of the pit, talk-\\ning to that bald-headed idiot with the mono-\\ncle.\\nDo you think she is American? I said,\\ndubiously. I couldn t see her feet. She\\nmight be French. She talks all over.\\nNo. She is an American girl. See\\nhow thin she is. The French are short\\nand fat.\\nLook at her face, I said, enviously.\\n52", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nHow animated it is. See how it seems to\\nstand out among all the other faces.\\nYet she is only amusing herself. See\\nliow stolid that creature looks that she is\\nwasting all her vitality on.\\nShe has told him some joke and she is\\nlaughing at it. He has put his monocle in\\nhis other eye in his effort to see the point.\\nHe will get it by the next boat. Wish she d\\ncome and tell that joke to me. I d laugh at\\nit.\\nMy sister eyed me critically.\\nYou don t look as if you could laugh,\\nshe said.\\n^^I wonder what would happen if I should\\nfall dead and drop over into the lap of that\\nfat elephant in pink silk with the red neck,\\nI said, musingly.\\nShe wouldn t even wink, said my sister,\\nlaughingly. But if you struck her just\\nright you would bounce clear up here again\\nand I could catch you.\\nIt is just four o clock in Chicago, I\\nsaid.\\nMy sister promptly turned her back on me.\\nAnd Billy has just wakened from his\\nnap, and Katy is giving him his food, I\\nwent on. (Billy is my sister s baby.) And\\nthen mamma will come into the nursery\\npresently and take him while Katy gets his\\ncarriage out, and she will show him my pict-", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nure and ask liim who it is (because she wrote\\nme she always did it at this time), and then\\nhe will say, Tattah/ which is the sweetest\\nbaby word for Anntie I ever heard from\\nmortal lips, and then he will kiss it of his\\nown accord. Mamma wrote that he had blis-\\ntered it with his kisses, and it s one of the big\\nones, but I don t care; I ll order a dozen\\nmore if he will blister them all. And then\\nshe will say, Where did mamma and Tat-\\ntah go V and he will wave his precious little\\nsquare hand and say, Big boat, and she\\nsays he tries to say, Way off and, oh,\\ndear, we are way off\\nStop talking, you fiend, said my sister,\\nfrom the depths of her handkerchief. You\\nknow I look like a fright when I cry.\\nBoo-hoo, was my only reply. And\\nonce started, I couldn t stop. That deadly\\nEnglish atmosphere of indifference and,\\noh and everything!\\nHave you ever been homesick when you\\ncouldn t get home? Have you ever wanted\\nto see your mother so that every bone in your\\nbody ached? Have you ever been in the\\nstate where to see the baby for five minutes\\nyou would give everything on earth you had\\nThat was the way I felt about Billy that\\ngrewsome night at this amusing play in an\\nEnglish theatre. I had on my best clothes,\\nbut after my handkerchief ceased to avail\\n54.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe tears slopped down on my satin gown,\\nand the blisters will remain as a lasting-\\ntribute to the contagion of a company of\\nEnglish people out enjoying themselves.\\nMy sister s stern sense of decorum caused\\nher to contain herself until she got home,\\nbut I am free to confess that after I once\\nloosed my hold over myself and found what\\na relief it was, I realized the truth of what\\nour old negro cook used to say when I w^as a\\nchild in the South, and asked her why she\\nhowled and cried in such an alarming man-\\nner when she got religion. She used to\\nsay, Lawd, chile, you don t know how soov-\\nin it is to jest bust out awn casions lake\\ndese!\\nHappy negroes Happy children, who\\ncan bust out when their feelings get the\\nbetter of them Civilization robs us of\\nmany of our acutest pleasures.\\nThat night on the way home from the\\ntheatre I learned something, i^obodv had\\never told me that it is the custom to give the\\ncabby an extra sixpence Avhen one takes a\\ncab late at night, so, on alighting in front of\\nour flower-trimmed lodgings, I reached up,\\ndeposited my shilling in his hand, and was\\nturning away, when my footsteps were ar-\\nrested by my cabby s voice.\\nTurning, I saw him tossing the despised\\nshilling in his curved palm and saving:\\n55", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nA shillin Twelve o clock at niglit\\nTwo ladies in evenin dress! You ought to\\na gone in a bns A cab s too expensive for\\nyou! I wish you d a walked and I wish it\\nhad rained!\\nWith that parting shot he gathered up the\\nlines and drove off, while I leaned up against\\nthe door shaking with a laughter which my\\nsister in no wise shared with me. Poor\\nBee! Things like that jar her so that she\\ncan t get any amusement out of them. To\\nher it was terrifying impudence. To me it\\nwas a heart-to-heart talk with a London\\ncabby\\nOh, the sweet viciousness of that I wish\\nit had rained! I wonder if that man beats\\nhis wife, or if he just converses with her as\\nhe does with a recreant fare! Anyway, I\\nloved him.\\nBut if I have discovered nothing else in\\nthe brief time since I left my native land,\\nit is worth while to realize the truth of all\\nthe poetry and song written on foreign shores\\nabout home.\\nTo one accustomed to travel only in Amer-\\nica, and to feel at home with all the different\\nvarieties of one s countrymen, such senti-\\nments are no more than vers de societe. But\\nnow I know what Heimweh is ^the home-\\npain. I can understand that the Swiss really\\ndie of it sometimes. The home-pain ISTeu-\\n56", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nralgia, you know, and most other acute pains,\\nattack only one set of nerves. But Heimiveh\\nhurts all over. There is not a muscle of the\\nbody, nor the most remote fibre of the l^rain,\\nnor a tissue of the heart that does not ache\\nwith it. You can t eat. You can t sleep.\\nYou can t read or write or talk. It begins\\nwith the protoplasm of your soul and\\nreaches forward to the end of time, and aches\\nevery step of the way along. Y^ou want to\\nhide your face in a pillow away from every-\\nbody and do nothing but weep, but even that\\ndoes not cure. It seems to be too private to\\nhelp materially. The only thing I can rec-\\nommend is to bust out.\\nHomesickness is an inexplicable thing. I\\nhave heard brides relate how it attacked\\nthem unmercifully and without cause in the*\\nmidst of their honeymoon. Girl students,\\nwhose sole aim in life lias been to come\\nabroad to study, and who, in finally coming,\\nhave fondly dreamed that the gates of Para-\\ndise had swung open before their delighted\\neyes, have been among its earliest and most\\nacutely afflicted victims. No success, no\\nrealized ambitions ward it off. Like death,\\nit comes to high and low alike. One woman,\\nwhose name became famous with her first\\nconcert, told me that she spent the first year\\nover here in tears. ISTothing that friends can\\ndo, no amount of kindness or hospitality\\n57", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\navails as a preventive. You can take bro-\\nmides and cure insomnia. You can take\\nchloroform^ and enough of it will prevent\\nseasickness, but nothing avails for Heimweh.\\nAnd like pride, let him that thinketh he\\nstandeth take heed lest he fall. I have\\nbeen in the midst of an animated recital of\\nhow homesick I had been the day before,\\nridiculing myself and my malady with unc-\\ntuous freedom, when suddenly Billy s little\\nface would seem to rise out of the flowers\\non the dinner-table, or the patter of his little\\nflying feet as they used to sound in my ear as\\nhe fluttered down the long hall to my study,\\nor the darling way he used to run towards\\nme when I held out my arms and said,\\nCome, Billy, let Tattah show you the\\ndoves, with such an expectant face, and that\\nlittle scarlet mouth opened to kiss me oh,\\nit is nothing to anybody else, but it is home\\nto me, and I was only recalled to London\\nand my dinner party when a fresh attack\\nwas made on America, and I was called once\\nmore to battle for my country.\\nI have fought, bled, and died for home\\nand country more times than I can count\\nsince I have been here. I ought to come\\nhome with honorable scars and the rank of\\nfield-marshal, at least. I never knew how\\nmany objectionable features America pre-\\nsented to Englishmen until I became their", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nguest and broke bread at their tables. I can-\\nnot eat very much at their dinner parties I\\nam too busy thinking how to parry their at-\\ntacks on my America, and especially my Chi-\\ncago, and my West generally. The English\\nadore Americans, but they loathe America,\\nand I, for one, will not accept a divided alle-\\ngiance. Love me, love my dog, is my\\nmotto. I go home from their dinners as\\nhungry as a wolf, but covered with Victoria\\ncrosses. I am puzzled to know if they really\\nhate Chicago more than any other spot on\\nearth, or if they simply love to hear me fight\\nfor it, or if their manners need improving.\\nI myself may complain of the horrors of\\nour filthy streets, or of the way we tear up\\nwhole blocks at once (here in London they\\nonly mend a teaspoonful of pavement at a\\ntime), or of our beastly winds which tear\\nyour soul from your body, but I hope never\\nto sink so low as to permit a lot of foreigners\\nto do it. For even as a Parisian loves his\\nParis, and as a New Yorker loves his Lon-\\ndon, so do I love my Chicago.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "Ill\\nP AE I S\\nIt was a fortunate thing, after all, that I\\nwent to London first, and had my first great\\nastonishment there. It broke Paris to me\\ngently.\\nFor a month I have been in this city of\\nlimited repnblicanism this extraordinary\\nexample of outward beauty and inward un-\\ncleanness; this bewildering cosmopolis of\\ncheap luxuries and expensive necessities;\\nthis curious city of contradictions, where\\nyou might eat your breakfast from the\\nstreets they are so clean but where you\\nmust close your eyes to the spectacles of the\\ncurbstones; this beautiful, whited sepulchre,\\nwhere exists the unwritten law, Commit\\nany offence you will, provided you submerge\\nit in poetry and flowers this exponent of\\noutward observances, where a, gentleman\\nwill deliberately push you into the street if\\nhe wishes to pass you in a crowd, but where\\nhis action is condoned by his inexpres-sible\\nmanner of raising his hat to you, and the\\n60", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nheartfelt sincerity of his apology where one\\nman will run a mile to restore a lost franc,\\nbnt if you ask him to change a gold piece he\\nwdll steal five where yonr eyes are ravished\\nwith the beauty, and the greenness, and the\\nsmoothness and apparent ease of living of all\\nits inhabitants; where your mind is filled\\nwith the pictures, the music, the art, the gen-\\neral atmosphere of culture and wit; where\\nthe cooking is so good but so elusive, and\\nwhere the shops are so bewitching that you\\nhave spent your last dollar without thinking,\\nand you are obliged to cable for a new letter\\nof credit from home before you know it\\nthis is Paris.\\nParis is very educational. I can imagine\\nits influence broadening some people so\\nmuch that their own country could never be\\nample enough to cover them again. I can\\nimagine it narrowing others so that they\\nwould return to America more of Puritans\\nthan ever. It is amusing, it is fascinating,\\nit is exciting, it is corrupting. The French\\nmust be the most curious people on earth.\\nHow could even heavenly ingenuity create\\na more uncommon or bewildering contradic-\\ntion and combination Make up your mind\\nthat they are as simple as children when you\\nsee their innocent picnicking along the\\nboulevards and in the parks with their wdiole\\nfamilies, yet you dare not trust yourself to\\n61", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nLear what they are saying. Believe that\\nthey are cynical, and fin de siecle, and skep-\\ntical of all women when yon hear two men\\ntalk, and the next day yon hear that one of\\nthem has shot himself on the grave of his\\nsweetheart. Believe that politeness is the\\nrnling characteristic of the conntry because\\na man kisses your hand when he takes leave\\nof yon. But marry him, and no insn.lt as re-\\ngards other women is too low for him to\\nheap upon you. Believe that the French\\nmen are sympathetic because they laugh and\\ncry openly at the theatre. But appeal to\\ntheir chivalry, and they will rescue you\\nfrom one discomfort only to offer you a\\nworse. The French have sentimentality,\\nbut not sentiment. They have gallantry,\\nbut not chivalry. They have vanity, but not\\npride. They have religion, but not mo-\\nrality. They are a combination of the wild-\\nest extravagance and the strictest parsi-\\nmony. They cultivate the ground so close\\nto the railroad tracks that the trains almost\\nrun over their roses, and yet they leave a\\nPlace de la Concorde in the heart of the\\ncity.\\nYou can buy the wing of a chicken at a\\nbutcher s and take it home to cook it. But\\nyour bill at a restaurant will appall you.\\nWater is the most precious and exclusive\\ndrink you can order in Paris. .Imagine\\n62", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "A S SEEN BY ME\\nthat you who let the water run to cool it!\\nIn Paris they actually pay for water in their\\nhouses by the quart.\\nArtichokes, and truffles, and mushrooms,\\nand silk stockings, and kid gloves are so\\ncheap here that it makes you blink your eyes.\\nBut eggs, and cream, and milk are luxuries.\\nSilks and velvets are bew^ilderingly inexpen-\\nsive. But cotton stuffs are from America,\\nand are extravagances. They make them\\nup into costumes, and trim them with\\nvelvet ribbon, ^ever by any chance could\\nyou be supposed to send cotton frocks to be\\nwashed every week. The luxury of fresh,\\nstarched muslin dresses and plenty of shirt-\\nwaists is unknown.\\nI never shall overcome the ecstasies of\\nlaughter which assail me when I see varie-\\nties of coal exhibited in tiny shop windows,\\nset forth in high glass dishes, as we exploit\\nchocolates at home. But well they may re-\\nspect it, for it is really very much cheaper to\\nfreeze to death than to buy coal in Paris.\\nThe reason of all this is the city tax on\\nevery chicken, every carrot, every egg\\nbrought into Paris. Every mouthful of\\nfood is taxed. This produces an enormous\\nrevenue, and this is why the streets are so\\nclean it is why the asphalt is as smooth as a\\nballroom floor it is why the whole of Paris\\nis as beautiful as a dream.\\nG3", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nIn factj the city has ideas of cleanliness\\nwhich its middle-class inhabitants do not\\nshare. On a rainy day in Paris the absurd-\\nly hoisted dresses will expose to your view\\nall varieties of trimmed^ ruffled, and lace\\npetticoats, which would undeniably be bene-\\nfited by a bath. All the lingerie has ribbons\\nin it, and sometimes I think they are never\\nintended to be taken out.\\nWhen I was at the chateau of a friend not\\nlong ago she overheard her maid apologizing\\nto two sisters of charity, for the presence\\nof a bath-tub in her mistress s dressing-\\nroom You must not blame madame la\\nmarquise for bathing every day. She is not\\nmore untidy than I, and I, God knows,\\nwash myself but twice a year. It is just a\\nhabit of hers which she caught from the\\nEnglish.\\nMy friend called to her sharply, and told\\nher she need not apologize for her bathing,\\nto which the maid replied, in a tone of meek\\njustification, But if madame la marquise\\nonly knew how she was regarded by the\\npeople for this hahit of hers\\nI like the way the French take their\\namusements. At the theatre they laugh and\\napplaud the wit of the hero and hiss the vil-\\nlain. They shout their approval of a duel\\nand weep aloud over the death of the aged\\nmother. When they drive in the Bois they\\nG4", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsmile and have an air of enjoyment quite at\\nvariance with the bored expression of Eng-\\nlish and Americans who have enough money\\nto o^vn carriages. We drove in Hyde Park\\nin London the day before we came to Paris,\\nand nearly wept with sympathy for the un-\\nspoken grief in the faces of the unfortunate\\nrich who were at such pains to enjoy them-\\nselves.\\nThe second day from that we had a de-\\nlightful drive in the Bois in Paris.\\nHow glad everybody seems to be we have\\ncome! I said to my sister. See how\\npleased they all look.\\nI was enchanted at their gay faces. I felt\\nlike bowing right and left to them, the way\\nqueens and circus girls do.\\nI never saw such handsome men as I saw\\nin London. I never saw such beautiful\\nwomen as I see in Paris.\\nThe Bois has never been so smart as it\\nwas the past season, for the horrible fire of\\nthe Bazar de la Charite put an end to the\\nParis season, and left those who were not\\npersonally bereaved no solace but the Bois.\\nConsequently, the costumes one saw between\\nfive and seven on that one beautiful boule-\\nvard were enough to set one wild. I always\\nwished that my neck turned on a pivot and\\nthat I had eyes set like a coronet all around\\nmy head. My sister and I were in a con-", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nstant state of ecstasy and of clutching each\\nother s gowns, trying to see every one who\\npassed. But it was of no use. Although\\nthey drove slowly on purpose to be seen, if\\nyou tried to focus your glance on each one\\nit seemed as if they drove like lightning,\\nand you got only astigmatism for your pains.\\nI always came home from the Bois with a\\nheadache and a stiff neck.\\nI never dreamed of such clothes even in\\nmy dreams- of heaven. But the French are\\nan extravagant race. There was hardly a\\ngown worn last season which was not of the\\nmost delicate texture, garnished with chiffon\\nand illusion and tulle the most crushable,\\nairy, inflammable, unserviceable material\\none can think of. ISTow, I am a utilitarian.\\nWhen I see a white gown I always wonder\\nif it will wash. If I see lace on the foot\\nruffle of a dress I think how it will sound\\nwhen the wearer steps on it going up-stairs.\\nBut anything w^ould be serviceable to wear\\ndriving in a victoria in the Bois between five\\nand seven, and as that is where I have seen\\nthe most beautiful costumes I have no right\\nto complain, or to thrust at them my Ameri-\\ncan ideas of usefulness. This rage of theirs\\nfor beauty is what makes a perpetual honey-\\nmoon for the eyes of every inch of France.\\nThe way they study color and put greens\\ntogether in their landscape gardening makes.\\n66", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\none think with horror of our prairies and\\nsagebrush.\\nThe eye is ravished with beauty all over\\nParis. The clean streets, the walks between\\nrows of trees for pedestrians, the lanes for\\nbicyclists, the paths through tiny forests,\\nright in Paris, for equestrians, and on each\\nside the loveliest trees trees everywhere\\nexcept where there are fountains but what\\nis the use of trying to describe a beauty\\nwhich has staggered braver pens than mine,\\nand which, after all, you must see to appre-\\nciate\\nThe Catholic observances one sees every-\\nwhere in Paris are most interesting. When\\na funeral procession passes, every man\\ntakes off his hat and stands watching it with\\nthe greatest respect.\\nIn May the streets are full of sweet-\\nfaced little girls on their way to their first\\ncommunion. They were all in white, bare-\\nheaded, except for their white veils, white\\nshoes, white gloves, and the dearest look of\\nimportance on their earnest little faces. It\\nwas most touching.\\nIn all months, however, one sees the com-\\nical sight of a French bride and bridegroom,\\nin all the glory of their bridal array white\\nsatin, veil, and orange blossoms driving\\nthrough the streets in open cabs, and hug-\\nging and kissing each other with an unctu-\\n67", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nous freedom which is apt to throw a conser-\\nvative American into a spasm of laughter.\\nIndeed, the frank and candid way that love-\\nmaking goes on in public among the lower\\nclasses is so amazing that at first you think\\nyou never in this world will become accus-\\ntomed to it, but you get accustomed to a\\ngreat many strange sights in Paris. If a\\nkiss explodes with unusual violence in a cab\\nnear mine it sometimes scares the horse, but\\nit no longer disturbs me in the least. My\\nnervousness over that sort of thing has en-\\ntirely worn off.\\nI have had but one adventure, and that\\nwas of a simple and primitive character,\\nwhich seemed to excite no one but myself.\\nThey say that there is no drunkenness in\\nFrance. If that is so then this cabman of\\nmine had a fit of some kind. Perhaps,\\nthough, he was only a beast. Most of the\\ncabmen here are beasts. They beat their\\npoor horses so unmercifully that I spend\\nquite a good portion of my time standing\\nup in the cab and arguing Avith them. But\\nthe only efficacious argument I have dis-\\ncovered is to tell them that they will get\\nno pourhoire if they beat the horse. That\\nseems to infuse more humanity into them\\nthan any number of Scripture texts.\\nOn this occasion my cabman, for no rea-\\nson whatever, suddenly began to beat his\\n68", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhorse in the hatefulest way, leaning down\\nwith his whi}^ and striking the horse under-\\nneath, as we were going downhill on the Rue\\nde Freycinet. I screamed at him, but he\\npretended not to hear. The cab rocked from\\nside to side, the horse was galloping, and this\\nbrute beating him like a madman. It made\\nme wild. I was being bounced around like\\ncorn in a popper and in imminent danger of\\nbeing thrown to the pavement.\\nPeople saw my danger, but nobody did\\nanything just looked, that was all. I saw\\nthat I must save myself if there was any sav-\\ning going to be done. So with one last trial\\nof my lungs I shrieked at the cabman, but\\nthe cobblestones were his excuse, and he kept\\non. So I just stood up and knocked his hat\\noif wdth my parasol his big, white, glazed\\nhat. It was glorious He turned around\\nin a fury and pulled up his horse, with a\\ntorrent of rrencli abuse and impudence\\nwhich scared me nearly to death. I thought\\nhe might strike me.\\nSo I pulled my twitching lips into a dis-\\ntortion which passed muster with a Paris\\ncabmman for a smile, and begged his par-\\ndon so profusely that he relented and didn t\\nkill me.\\nI often blush for the cheap Americans\\nwith loud voices and provincial speech, and\\ngeneral commonness, whom one meets over\\n69", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhere; but with all their faults they cannot\\napproach the vulgarities at table which I\\nhave seen in Paris. In all America we have\\nno such vulgar institution as their rince-\\nhouche an affair resembling a two-part fin-\\nger-bowl, with the water in a cup in the mid-\\ndle. At fashionable tables, men and women\\nin gorgeous clothes, who speak four or five\\nlanguages, actually rinse their mouths and\\ngargle at the table, and then slop the water\\nthus used back into these bowls. The first\\ntime I saw this I do assure you I would not\\nhave been more astonished if the next course\\nhad been stomach pumps.\\nAnd as for the toothpick habit! Let no\\none ever tell me that that atrocity is Amer-\\nican! Here it goes with every course, and\\nwithout the pretended decency of holding\\none s serviette before one s mouth, which, in\\nmy opinion, is a mere affectation, and aggra-\\nvates the offence.\\nBut the most shameless thing in all Eu-\\nrope is the marriage question. To talk with\\nintelligent, clever, thinking men and women,\\nwho know the secret history of all the fa^\\nmous international marriages, as well as the\\nhigh contracting parties, who Avill relate the\\nprice paid for the husband, and who the in-\\ntermediary was, and how much commission\\nhe or she received, is to make you turn faint\\nand sick at the mere thought, especially if\\n70", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nyou happen to conle from a country where\\nthey once fought to abolish the buying and\\nselling of human beings. But our black\\nslaves were above buying and selling them-\\nselves or their children. It remains for civ-\\nilized Europe of our time to do this, and the\\nhighest and proudest of her people at that.\\nIt is not so shocking to read about it in\\nglittering generalities. I knew of it in\\na vague way, just as I knew the history\\nof the massacre of Saint Bartholomew. I\\nthought it was too bad that so many people\\nwere killed, and I also thought it a pity that\\nFrenchmen never married without a dot.\\nBut when it comes to meeting the people who\\nhad thus bargained, and the moment their\\ngorgeous lace and satin backs were turned\\nto hear some one say, You are always so\\ninterested in that sort of thing, have you\\nheard what a scandal was caused by the mar-\\nriage of those two? then it ceases to be\\nhistory; then it becomes almost a family\\naffair.\\nHow could a marriage between two un-\\nattached young people cause a scandal I\\nasked, with my stupid, primitive American\\nideas.\\nOh, the bride s mother refused to pay\\nthe commission to the intermediary, was\\nthe airy reply. It came near getting into\\nthe papers.\\n71", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAt the Jubilee garden party at Lady Mon-\\nson s I saw the most beautiful French girl\\nI have seen in Paris. She was superb. In\\nAmerica she would have been a radiant, a\\ntriumphant beauty, and probably w^ould\\nhave acquired the insolent manners of some\\nof our spoiled beauties. Instead of that,\\nhowever, she was modest, even timid-look-\\ning, except for her queenly carriage. Her\\ngown was a dream, and a dream of a dress\\nat a Paris garden party means something.\\nWhat a tearing beauty! I said to my\\ncompanion. Who is she\\nYes, poor girl! he said. She is the\\ndaughter of the Comtesse N One of the\\nprettiest girls in Paris. I^ot a sou, however\\nconsequently she will never marry. She will\\nprobably go into a convent.\\nBut why Why won t she marry\\nWhy aren t all the men crazy about her\\nWhy don t you marry her?\\nMarry a girl without a dot f Thank\\nyou, mademoiselle. I am an expense to\\nmyself. My wife must not be an additional\\nencumbrance.\\nBut surely, I said, somebody will\\nwant to marry her, if no nobleman will.\\nAh, yes, but she is of noble blood, and\\nshe must not marry beneath her. No one in\\nher own class will marry her, so a shrug\\nthe convent 1 See, her chances are\\n72", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nquite gone. She has been out five years\\nnow.\\nI could have cried. Every word of it was\\nquite true. I thought of the dozens of sus-\\nceptible and rich American men I knew who\\nwould have gone through fire and water for\\nher, and who, although they have no title to\\ngive her, would have made her adoring and\\nadorable husbands, and I seriously thought\\nof offering a few of them to her for con-\\nsideration! But alas, there are so many ifs\\nand ands, and well, I didn t.\\nI only sighed and said, Well, I suppose\\nsuch things are common in France, but I\\ndo assure you such things are impossible in\\nAmerica.\\nSuch things as what, mademoiselle\\nThis cold-blooded bartering, I said.\\nAmerican men are above it.\\nAre American girls above selling them-\\nselves, mademoiselle Do you see that poor,\\npitifully plain little creature there, in that\\ndress which cost a fortune? Do you see\\nhow ill she carries it? Do you see her un-\\nformed, uncertain manner Her husband is\\nthe one I just had the honor of presenting to\\nyou, who is now talking to the beauty you so\\nmuch admire.\\nHe shows good taste in spite of his mar-\\nriage, I said.\\nCertainly. But his wife is your coun-\\n73", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntryAVoman. That is the last famous inter-\\nnational marriage, and the most vnlgar of\\nthe whole lot. Listen, mademoiselle, and I\\nwill tell you the exact truth of the whole\\naffair.\\nShe came over here with letters to Paris\\nfriends, and when it became known that one\\nof the richest heiresses in America was here,\\nnaturally all the mammas w4th marriageable\\nsons were anxious to see her. She was in-\\nvited everywhere, but as she could not speak\\nFrench, and as she was as you see her, her\\nsuccess could not be said to be great. N^o,\\nbut that made no difference. The Duchesse\\nde Z was determined that her son should\\nmarry the rich heiress. As she expected to\\nremain here a year or more, and the young\\nDue de Z made a wry face, she did not\\npress the matter. Then the heiress went\\ninto a convent to learn French, and the\\nDuchesse went to see her very often and took\\nher to drive, and did her son s part as well as\\nshe could.\\nSuddenly, to the amazement of every-\\nbody, the heiress sailed for America without\\na word of warning. The Duchesse was fu-\\nrious. You must follow her, she said to\\nher son. We cannot let so much money\\nescape. The son said he would be hanged\\nif he went to America, or if he would marry\\nsuch a monkey, and as for her money, she\\n74", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncould go anywhere she pleased with it, or\\nwords to that effect. So that ended the affair\\nof the Due de Z When the other im-\\npecunious young nobles heard tliat the\\nDuchesse no longer had any claims upon the\\nAmerican s money they got together and\\nsaid, Somebody must marry her and divide\\nw^ith the rest. We can t all marry her, but\\nwe can all have a share from whoever does.\\nNow we will draw lots to see who must go\\nto America and marry her. The lot fell to\\nthe Baron de X but he had no money for\\nthe journey. So all the others raised what\\nmoney they could and loaned it to him, and\\ntook his notes for it, with enormous interest,\\npayable after his marriage. He sailed away,\\nand within eight months he had married her,\\nbut he has not paid those notes because his\\nw^ife won t give him the money! And these\\ngentlemen are furious! Good joke, I call\\nit.\\nWhat a shameful thing! I said. I\\nwonder if that girl knew how she was being\\nmarried!\\nOf course she knew! At least, she\\nmiffht have known. She was rich and she\\no\\nwas plain. How could she hope to gain one\\nof the proudest titles in France without buv-\\ning it\\nI w^onder if she could have known I\\nsaid, again.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nIt would not have prevented the mar-\\nriage, would it, mademoiselle, if she had\\nIndeed it would 1 I said (but I don t\\nknow whether it would or not). He\\nshrugged his shoulders.\\nAmerica is very different from Europe,\\nthen, mademoiselle. Here it would have\\nmade no difference. When a great amount of\\nmoney is to be placed, one must not have\\ntoo many scruples.\\nIf she did know, I said, with a fervor\\nwhich was .lost upon him, believe this,\\nwhether you can understand it or not: she\\nwas not a typical American girl.\\nI had, as usual, many more words which\\nhe deserved to have had said to him, but edu-\\ncation along this line takes too much time.\\nI ought to have begun this great work with\\nhis great-grandparents.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2K- -Jf -Sf\\nWhat any one can see about Dinard to\\nlike is a mystery to me Is it possible that\\none who has spent a month there could ever\\nbe lured back again? There is a beautiful\\njourney from Paris across France. southwest-\\nerly to the coast, through odd little French\\nvillages, vineyards, poppy-iields, and rose-\\ngardens, across shining rivulets and through\\nan undulating landscape, all so lovely that\\nit is no wonder that one expects all this\\nbeauty to lead up to a climax. But what a\\n76", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ndisappointment Dinard is to one s enthusi-\\nastic anticipations! This famous watering-\\nplace has to my mind not one solitary re-\\ndeeming feature. It has no excuse for be-\\ning famous. It has not even one happy ac-\\ncident about it as a peg to hang its fame\\nupon, like some writers first novels. Di-\\nnard simply goes on being famous, nobody\\nknows why. And to go there, after reading\\npages about it in the papers and hearing\\npeople sj)eak of Dinard as Mohammedans\\nwhisper sacredly of Mecca, is like meeting\\ncelebrities. You wonder what under the\\nsun what in the world how in the name\\nof Heaven such ugly, stupid, uninteresting,\\nheavy, dull, and insufferably ordinary per-\\nsons are allowed to become famous by an\\noverruling and beneficent Providence! I\\nhave met many celebrities, and I have\\nbeen to Dinard. I have had my share of\\ndisappointments.\\nTo begin with, Dinard is not sufiiciently\\npicturesque. There are but one or two pret-\\nty vistas and three or four points of view.\\nThen it is not typically French. It is in-\\nhabited partly by English families who cross\\nthe Channel yearly from Southampton and\\nPortsmouth, and who take with them their\\nnine uninteresting daughters, with long\\nfront teeth and ill-hanging duck skirts, and\\npartly by Americans who go to Dinard as\\n77", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntliey go to the Eiffel Tower; not that either\\nis particularly interesting, but they had\\nheard of these places before they came over.\\nThe only really interesting thing within five\\nmiles of Dinar d is that, off St. Malo, on the\\nisland of Grand Be, Chateaubriand is\\nburied. But as this really belongs more\\nto the attractions of St. Malo than to Dinard,\\nand nobody who spends summers at Dinard\\never mentioned Chateaubriand in my pres-\\nence, or honored his tomb by a visit, it is\\npure charity on my part to ascribe this soli-\\ntary point of real interest to Dinard. For,\\nafter all, Chateaubriand does not belong to\\nit. Which logic reminds me forcibly of\\nthe plea entered by the defence in a suit for\\nborrowing a kettle In the first place, I\\nnever borrowed his kettle; in the second\\nplace, it was whole when I returned it; and,,\\nin the third place, it was cracked when I got\\nit.\\nSo with Chateaubriand and Dinard.\\nThen Dinard has none of the dash and go of\\nother watering-places. There is nothing to\\ndo except to bathe mornings and watch the\\npeople win or lose two francs at petits che-\\nvaux in the evenings. !N ot wildly exciting,\\nthat. Consequently, jovl soon begin to stag-\\nnate with the rest.\\nYou grow more and more stupid as the\\nweeks pass, and at the end of a month you\\n78", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BYME\\ncease to think. From that time on you do\\nnot have such a bad time that is to say,\\nyou do not suffer so acutely, because you\\nhave now got do^vn to the level of the people\\nwho go back to Dinard the next year.\\nWe came awaj. The hotels are among\\nthe worst on earth musty, old-fashioned,\\nand villainously expensive and one of the\\nhappiest moments in my life was the day\\nwhen I left Dinard for Mont St. Michel.\\nMont St. Michel is one of the most out-of-\\nthe-way, un-get-at-able places I found in all\\nEurope; but, oh, how it rewards one who\\narrives\\nMont St. Michel is too well known to need\\na description. But to go from Dinard re-\\nquires, first of all, that one must go by boat\\nover to St. Malo, thence by train; change\\ncars, and alight finally at a lonely little sta-\\ntion, behind which stands a sort of vehicle\\na cross between a London omnibus and a\\nhay-wagon. You scramble to the top of this\\nas best you may. iSTobody helps you. The\\nFrenchman behind you crowds forward and\\nclimbs up ahead of you and holds you back\\nwith his umbrella while he hauls his fat\\nwife up beside him. Then you clamber up\\nby the hub of the wheel and by sundry awk-\\nward means which remind you of climbing\\na stone wall when you were a child. You\\ntake any seat left, which the Frenchmen do\\nT9", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nnot want, the horses are put to, and away\\nyou go over a smooth sandy road for eleven\\nmiles, with the sea crawling up on each side\\nof you over the dunes.\\nSuddenly, without warning, you come\\nsquarely upon Mont St. Michel, rising solid-\\nly five hundred feet from nowhere. There\\nis a whole town in this fortress, built upon\\nthis rock, street above street, like a flight of\\nstairs, and house piled up behind house, un-\\ntil on the very top there is one of the most\\nfamous cathedrals in the world; and as you\\nthread its maze of vaulted chambers and\\ndungeons and come to its gigantic tower\\nyou are lost in absolute wonder at the build-\\ning of it.\\nWhere did they get the material? And\\nwhen got, what human ingenuity could raise\\nthose enormous blocks of stone to that vast\\nheight? How those cannon swept all ap-\\nproach by land or sea as far as the eye could\\nreach! It would require superb courage\\nin an enemy to come within reach of that\\ngrim sentinel of France, manned by her\\nwarrior monks. What secrets those awful\\ndungeons might relate! Here political\\ncrimes were avenged with all the cruelty of\\nSiberian exile. Here prisoners wore their\\nlives away in black solitude, no ray of light\\npenetrating their darkness.\\nThe story is told that one poor wretch\\n80", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwas eaten alive hj gigantic rats, and they\\nhave a ghastly reproduction of it in wax,\\nwhich makes yon creepy for a week after\\nyon have seen it. ^Nowhere in all Europe\\ndid I see a place which impressed its wonder\\nand its history of horror upon me as did the\\ncathedral dungeon of Mont St. Michel. Its\\nsituation was so impregnable, its capacity so\\nvast, its silence and isolation from the outer\\nworld so absolute.\\nAll Russia does not boast a situation so\\nreplete with possible and probable misery\\nand anguish such as were suggested to my\\nmind here.\\nBut the wonder and charm of the compact\\nlittle town which clings like a limpet to its\\nbase are more than can be expressed on the\\nwritten page. It is like climbing the uneven\\nstairs of some vast and roofless ancient pal-\\nace, upon each floor of which dwell families\\nwho have come in and roofed over the suites\\nof rooms and made houses out of them. The\\nstairs lead you, not from floor to floor, but\\nfrom bakery to carpenter-shop, from the\\nblacksmith s to the telegraph-ofiice.\\nThe streets are paved with large cobble-\\nstones, to prevent cart-wheels from slipping,\\nand are so narrow that I often had to stand\\nup at afternoon tea with my cup in one hand\\nand my chair in the other, to let a straining,\\ntoiling little donkey pass me, gallantly haul-\\nF 81", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning his load of fagots up an incline of forty-\\nfive degrees.\\nThe famous inn here is kept by Madame\\nPoularde, who can cook so niarvellously that\\nshe is one of the wonders of N^ormandy.\\nHer kitchen faces the main street you simply\\nstep over the threshold as you hear the beat-\\ning of eggs, and there, over an immense open\\nfire, which roars gloriously up the chimney,\\nare the fowls twirling on their strings and\\ndripping deliciously into the pans which\\nsizzle complainingly on the coals beneath.\\nPresently the roaring ceases, the fresh\\ncoals are flattened down, and into a skillet,\\nwith a handle five feet long, is dropped the\\nbutter, which melts almost instantly. A fat\\nlittle red-faced boy pushes the skillet back\\nand forth to keep the butter from burning.\\nThe frantic beating of eggs comes nearer\\nand nearer. The shrill voice of Madame\\nPoularde screams voluble French at her as-\\nsistants. She boxes somebody s ears,\\nsnatches the eggs, gives them one final puffy\\nbeating, which causes them to foam up and\\noverflow, and at that exciting moment out\\nthey bubble into the smoking skillet, the\\nhandle of which she seizes at the identical\\nmoment that she lets go of the empty bowl\\nwith one hand and pushes the red-faced\\nboy over backward with the other. It is\\nlegerdemain! But then, how she manages\\n82", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthat skillet How her red cheeks flush, her\\nblack eyes sparkle, and her plump hands\\nguide that ship of state!\\nWe are all so excited that we get horribly\\nin her way and almost fall into the fire in\\nour anxiety. She stirs and coaxes and co-\\nquettes with the lovely foamy mass until it\\nbecomes as light as the yellow down on a\\nfledgling s wings. She calls it an omelette,\\nbut she is scrambling those eggs Then\\nwhen it is almost done she screams at us to\\ntake our places. The red-faced boy rings a\\nhuge bell, and w^e all tumble madly up the\\nnarrow stairs to the dining-room, where a\\nscore of assorted tourists are seated. Tliey\\nget that first omelette because they behaved\\nbetter than we did, and were more orderly.\\nThere are half a dozen little maids who at-\\ntend us. They give us bread and bring our\\nwine and get our plates all ready, for, behold,\\nwe can hear below the beating of the eggs\\nand the sizzling of the butter, and presently\\nMadame Poularde s scream and slap, and\\nwe know that our omelette is on the way\\nThere were scores of bridal parties there\\nwhen we were, for Mont St. Michel seems to\\nbe the ISTiagara of France, and really one\\ncould hardly imagine a more charming place\\nfor a honeymoon. Indeed, for a newly mar-\\nried couple, for boy and girl, for spinsters and\\nbachelors, ay, even for Darby and Joan,\\n83", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nMont St. Michel has attractions. All sorts\\nand conditions of men here find the most ro-\\nmantic and interesting spot to be found in\\nthe whole of France.\\nWhile here we got telegrams telling us of\\nthe assembling of our friends at a house-\\nparty at a chateau in the south of France\\nwhich once had belonged to Charles YII.\\nSo without waiting for anything more we\\nwired a joyful acceptance and set out. We\\ndid, however, stop over a few hours at Blois,\\nin order to see the chateau there. We really\\ndid Blois in a spirit of Baedeker, for we were\\ncrazy to see Velor, in order not to miss an\\ninch of the good times which we knew would\\nriot there. But virtue was its OAvn reward,\\nfor as we were looking into the depths of the\\nfirst real oubliette which I ever had seen, and\\nI was just shivering with the vision of that\\nfiendish Catharine de Medici who used to\\ndrop people into these holes every morning\\nbefore breakfast, just as an appetizer, we\\nheard a most blood-curdling shriek, and there\\nstood that wretched Jimmie watching us\\nfrom an open door, waving his Baedeker at\\nus, with Mrs. Jimmie s lovely Madonna\\nsmile seen over his shoulder.\\n1^0 one who has not felt the awful pangs\\nof homesickness abroad has any idea of the\\njoy with which one greets intimate friends\\nin Europe. I believe that travel in Europe\\n84", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhas done more toward the riveting of hike-\\nwarm American friendships than any other\\nthing in the world.\\nThe Jimmies have often appeared upon\\nmy pathway like angels of light, and at\\nBlois we simply loved them, for Blois is\\nnot only gloomy, but it has a most ghastly\\nhistory. The murder of the Due de Guise\\nand his brother, by order of King Henry\\nIII., took place here. They show one the\\nrooms where the murder was committed, the\\ndoor through which the murderer entered,\\nand the private cabinet de travail where the\\nking waited for the news.\\nHere, also, Margaret of Valois married\\nHenry of ^N^avarre, and Charles, Due\\nd Alengon, married Margaret of Anjou. But\\none hardly ever thinks of the weddings\\nwhich occurred here for the horrors which\\novershadOAV them. How fitting that Marie\\nde Medici should have been imprisoned\\nhere, and my ancient enemy, Catharine, that\\nqueen-mother who perched her children on\\nthrones as carelessly and as easily as did Na-\\npoleon and Queen Louise of Denmark that\\nCatharine should have died here, unre-\\ngretted and unlamented, was too lovely!\\nThen we left the magnificent old castle\\nand took the train for Port-Boulet, where the\\nMarquise met us with her little private\\nomnibus, holding eight, drawn by handsome", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAmerican horses. They were new horses\\nand yonng, and the Marquise said that\\nCharles found them quite unmanageable.\\nJimmie watched him drive them around a\\nmoment or two before they could be made\\nto stand, then he broke out laughing. The\\nMarquise was so disgusted at the way they\\nsee-sawed that she said she was going to sell\\nthem.\\nSell them! cried Jimmie. Why, all\\nin the world that s the matter with those\\npoor brutes is that they don t speak French\\nLet me drive them!\\nSo the Marquise saved Charles s vanity by\\nsaying that monsieur wished to try the new\\nhorses. Jimmie climbed upon the box, and\\ngathered up the reins, saying, So, old boy,\\nyou don t like the dratted language any bet-\\nter than I do. Steady now, boy Giddap F\\nWhereat the pretty creatures pricked up\\ntheir ears, pranced a little, then sprang into\\ntheir collars, and we were off along the lovely\\nriver road at a spanking pace and with as\\nsmooth and even a gait as the most experi-\\nenced roadsters.\\nWe could hear Charles s polite compli-\\nments to Jimmie on his driving, and Jim-\\nmie s awful French, as he assured Charles\\nthat the horses were all right, tres gentils\\nand ires jolis/ Ne dites jamais douce-\\nment aux chevaux americains. Dites\\n86", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nivJioa/ et Us arrUeroiit, et quand vous dites\\nGiddap/ Us marclieront hien. Savez? At\\nwhich Charles obediently practised Whoa\\nand Giddap! while we felt ourselves\\npulled up and started off, as the object-lesson\\ndemanded, but amid shrieks of laughter\\nwhich quite upset Charles s dignity.\\nFinally, we whirled in across the moat and\\nunder the great gate to the chateau, and\\nfound ourselves in the billiard-room of\\nVelor, with a big open fire, in front of which\\nlay a pile of dogs and around which we all\\ngathered shiveringly, for the day was chilly.\\nThat charming billiard-room at Velor!\\nIt is not so grand as the rest of the chateau,\\nbut everybody loves it best of all. It is on\\nthe ground floor, and it has a writing-desk\\nand two or three little work-tables and sev-\\neral sofas and heaps of easy-chairs, and here\\neverybody came to read or write or sew or\\nplay billiards. And as to afternoon tea!\\nNot one of us could have been hired to drink\\nit in the salons up-stairs. In fact, so many\\nof us insisted upon being in the billiard-room\\nthat there never w^as room for a free play of\\none s cue, for somebody was always in the\\nway, and it was rather discouraging to hear a\\nwoman doing embroidery say, Don t hit\\nthis ball. Take some other stroke, can t\\nyou Your cue will strike me in the eye.\\nDunham, the eighteen-year-old son of the\\n87", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nMarquise, was teachtng me billiards, but his\\nmanners were so beautiful that he always\\npretended that to stick to one s own ball was\\na mere arbitrary rule, of the game, so he per-\\nmitted me to play with either ball, which\\nmade it easiest for me, or which caused least\\ndiscomfort to those sitting uncomfortably\\nnear the table. A dear boy, that Dunham\\nHe had but one fault, and that was that he\\nwould wear cerise and scarlet cravats, and\\nhis hair was red- so imcompromisingly red,\\nof such an obstinate and determined red, that\\nhis mother often said, Come here, Dunham,\\ndear, and light up this corner of the room\\nwith your sunny locks. It is too dark to see\\nhow to thread my needle Such was his\\namiability that I am sure he enjoyed it, for\\nhe always went promptly, and called her\\nMon amour f and slyly kissed her when he\\nthought we were not looking.\\nAll our remarks upon his red ties fell upon\\nunheeding ears, until one day I bribed his\\nman to bring me -e very one of them. These\\nI distributed among the women guests, and\\nwhen, the next morning, Dunham came in\\ncomplaining that he couldn t find any of his\\nred ties, lo! every woman in the room was\\nwearing one; and to our credit be it spoken\\nthat he failed to get any of them back, and\\nnever, to my knowledge at least, wore a scar-\\nlet tie again.\\n88", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nVelor is historic.^ After it passed out of\\nthe hands of Charles VII. I have slept in\\nhis room, but I must say that he was un-\\npleasantly short if that bed fitted him it\\nwas bought by the old miser Nivelau, whose\\ndaughter, Eugenie Belmaison, was the girl\\nBalzac wished to marry. In a rage at bein^\\nrejected by her father he wrote Eugenie\\nGrandet, and several of the articles, such\\nas her work-box, of which Balzac makes men-\\ntion, are in the possession of the Marquise.\\nEvery available room in the Velor was\\nfilled with our party. Each day we drove in\\nthe brake to visit some ancient chateau, such\\nas Azay-le-Rideau, Islette, Chinon, or the Ab-\\nbey of Fontevreault, finding the roads and\\nscenery in Touraine the most delightful one\\ncan imagine.\\nFontevreault was originally an abbey,\\nand a most powerful one, being presided over\\nby daughters of kings or women of none but\\nthe highest rank, and these noble women\\nheld the power of life and death over all the\\ncountry which was fief to Fontevreault.\\nVelor was once fief to Fontevreault, but\\nthe abbey is now turned into a prison.\\nThey took away our cameras before they\\nallowed us to enter, but we saw some of the\\nprisoners, of whom there were one thousand.\\nThe real object of our visit, however, was to\\nsee the tombs of Henry 11. and of my be-\\n89", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nloved Richard the Lion-hearted, who are\\nboth buried at Fontevreault. To go to Fon-\\ntevreaultj we were obliged to cross the river\\nVienne on the most curious little old ferry,\\nwhich was only a raft with the edges turned\\nup. Charles drove the brake on to this raft,\\nbut we preferred, after one look into the eyes\\nof the American horses, to climb down and\\ntrust to our own two feet.\\nWe gave and attended breakfasts with the\\nowners of neighboring chateaux, drove into\\nSaumur to. the theatre or to dine with the\\nofficers of the regiment stationed there, and\\nhad altogether a perfect visit. I have made\\nmany visits and have been the guest of many\\nhostesses, most of them charming ones, hence\\nit is no discourtesy to them and but a higher\\ncompliment to the Marquise when I assert\\nthat she is one of the most perfect hostesses\\nI ever met.\\nA thorough woman of the world, having\\nbeen presented- at three courts and speaking\\nfive languages, yet her heart is as untouched\\nby the taint of worldliness, her nature as un-\\nembittered by her sorrows, as if. she were a\\nchild just opening her eyes to society. One\\nof the cleverest of women, she is both humor-\\nous and witty, with a gift of mimicry which\\nwould have made her a fortune on the stage.\\nHer servants idolize her, manage the cha-\\nteau to suit themselves, which fortunately\\n90", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmeans to perfection, and look npon her as a\\nbeloved child who must be protected from all\\nthe minor trials of life. She has rescued the\\nmost of them from some sort of discomfort,\\nand their gratitude is boundless. Like the\\nmajority of the nobility, the peasants of\\nFrance are royalists. The middle class,\\nthe hourgeoisie, are the backbone of the re-\\npublic.\\nThe servants are stanch Catholics and\\nlong for a monarchy again. The Marquise\\napologized to them for our being heretics,\\nand told them that while we were not Chris-\\ntians (Catholics), yet we tried to be good,\\nand in the main turned out a fair article,\\nbut she entreated their clemency and their\\nprayers for her guests. So we had the satis-\\nfaction of being ardently prayed for all the\\ntime we were there, and of being compli-\\nmented occasionally by her maid, Marie, an\\nold N^ormandie peasant seventy years old,\\nfor an act on our part now and then which\\nsavored of real Christianity. And once when\\nwe had private theatricals, and I dressed as\\na nun, Marie never found out for half the\\nevening that I was not one of the Sisters\\nwho frequently came to the chateau, but\\nkept crossing herself whenever she saw me;\\nand when she discovered me she told me,\\nwith tears in her eyes, it really was a thou-\\nsand pities that I would not renounce the\\n91", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nworld and become a Christian, because I\\nlooked so much like a religiense/\\nWe went in oftenest to Chinon always\\non market day; some of ns on horseback,\\nsome on wheels, while the rest drove. Chi-\\nnon is the fortress chateau where Jeanne\\nd Arc came to see Charles VII. to try to in-\\nterest him in her plans. Its ruins stand high\\nup on a bluff overlooking the town, and be-\\nneath it in an open square is the very finest\\nand most spirited equestrian statue I ever\\nsaw. It is of Jeanne d Arc, and I only regret\\nthat the photograph I took of it is too small\\nto show its fire and spirit and the mad rush\\nof the horse, and the glorious, generous pose\\nof the noble martyr s outstretched arms, as\\nshe seems to be in the act of sacrificing her\\nlife to her country. There is the divinest\\npatriotism in every line of it.\\nWe saw it on a beautiful crisp day in No-\\nvember. It was our Thanksgiving day at\\nhome. We drove along the lovely river-road\\nfrom Chinon to Velor, and upon our arrival\\nwe discovered that the Marquise had ar-\\nranged an American Thanksgiving dinner\\nfor us, sending even to America for certain\\ndelicacies appropriate to the season. It was a\\nmost gorgeous Thanksgiving dinner, for,\\naside from the turkey, lol there appeared a\\npeacock in all its magnificent plumage, sitr\\nting there looking so dressy with all his\\n92", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfeathers on that we quite bluslied for the\\nstate of the turkey^\\nA month of Paris, and then I long for\\nfresh fields and pastures new. Of course\\nthere is nowhere like Paris for clothes or to\\neat. But when one has got all the clothes\\none can afford and is no longer hungry, hav-\\ning acquired a chronic indigestion from too\\nintimate a knowledge of Marguery s and\\nLedoyen s, what is there to do but to leave\\nParis is essentially a holiday town, but I\\nget horribly tired of too long a holiday, and\\nafter the newness is worn off one dis-\\ncovers that it is the superficiality of it all\\nthat palls. The people are superficial;\\ntheir amusements are feathery even the\\nbeauty of it all is only skin deep.\\nTherefore, after one glimpse of Poland,\\nthe pagan in my nature called me to the\\nEast, and six months of Paris have only in-\\ntensified my longing to get away to get to\\nsomething solid; to find myself once more\\nwith the serious thinkers of the Avorld.\\nIn the mean time Bee has deserted me for\\nthe more interesting society of Billy, and\\nnow she writes me long letters so filled with\\nhis sayings and doings that I must move on\\nor I shall die of homesickness. I have de-\\ncided on Russia and the N^ile, taking inter-\\nmediate countries by the way. This is en-\\ntirely Billy s fault.\\n93", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nWhen I first decided to go to Eussia, I\\nsupposed^ of course, that I could induce the\\nJimmies to go with me, but, to my consterna-\\ntion, they revolted, and gently but firmly\\nexpressed their determination to go to Egypt\\nby way of Italy. So I have taken a com-\\npanion, and if all goes well we shall meet\\nthe Jimmies on the terrace of Shepheard s\\nin February.\\nI packed three trunks in my very best\\nstyle, only to have Mrs. Jimmie regard my\\nwork with a face so full of disapproval that\\nit reminded me of Bee s. She then pro-\\nceeded to put everything any mortal could\\npossibly want into one trunk, with what\\nseemed to me supernatural skill and com-\\nmon-sense, calmly sending the other two to\\nbe stored at Munroe s. I don t like to dis-\\nparage Mrs. Jimmie s idea of what I need,\\nbut it does seem to me that nearly everything\\nI have wanted here in Berlin is stored at\\nMunroe s.\\nMy companion and I, with faultless arith-\\nmetic, calculated our expenses and drew out\\nwhat we considered plenty of French mon-\\ney to get us to the German frontier. Then\\nJimmie took my companion and Mrs. Jim-\\nmie took me to the train.\\nTheir cab got to the station first, and when\\nwe came up Jimmie was grinning, and my\\ncompanion looked rather sheepish.\\n94", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI didn t have enough money to pay the\\nextra luggage/ she whispered. I had to\\nborrow of Mr. Jimmie.\\nThat s just like you, I said, severely.\\nNow I drew more than you did.\\nJust then Jimmic came up with my little\\naccount.\\nForty-nine francs extra luggage, he\\nannounced.\\nWhat I gasped, on that one trunk\\nHow grateful I was at that moment for the\\ntwo stored at Munroe s\\nOh, Jimmie, I cried, I haven t got\\nnear enough! You ll have to lend me\\ntwenty francs\\nMy companion smiled in sweet revenge,\\nand has been almost impossible to travel\\nwith since then, but we are one in our rage\\nagainst paying extra luggage. Just think\\nof buying your clothes once and then paying\\nfor them over and over again in every for-\\neign country you travel through! Our\\nclothes will be priceless heirlooms by the\\ntime we get home. We can never throw\\nthem away. They will be too valuable.\\nThe Jimmies have been so kind to us that\\nwe nearly choked over leaving them, but\\nwe consoled ourselves after the train left,\\nand proceeded to draw the most invidious\\ncomparisons between French sleeping-cars\\nand the rolling palaces we are accustomed to\\n95", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nat home. I am ashamed to think that I have\\nmade unpleasant remarks upon the discom-\\nforts of travel in America. Oh, how un-\\ngrateful I have been for past mercies!\\nMy companion is very patient, as a rule,\\nbut I heard her restlessly tossing around in\\nher berth, and I said, What s the matter\\nOh, nothing much. But don t you\\nthink they have arranged the knobs in these\\nmattresses in very curious places\\nWell, it was sl little like sleeping on a\\nwood-pile during a continuous earthquake.\\nBut that was nothing compared to the news\\nbroken to us about eleven o clock that our\\nluggage would be examined at the German\\nfrontier at five o clock in the morning.\\nThat meant being wakened at half past four.\\nBut it was quite unnecessary, for we were\\nnot asleep.\\nIt was cold and raining. I got up and\\ndressed for the day. But my companion\\nput her seal-skin on over her dressing-gown,\\nand perched her hat on top of that hair of\\nhers, and looked ready to cope with Diana\\nherself.\\nThey ll ruin my things if they unpack\\nthem, I said.\\nYou just keep still and let me manage\\nthings, she answered. So I did. I made\\nmyself as small as possible and watched her.\\nShe selected her victim and smiled on him\\n96", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmost charmingly. He was tearing open the\\ntrunk of a fat American got np in gray flan-\\nnel and curl-papers. He dropped her tray\\nand hurried up to my companion.\\nHave you anything to declare, madam\\nhe asked.\\nTell him absolutely nothing/ she whis-\\npered to me. I obeyed, but he never took his\\neyes from her. She was tugging at the strap\\nof her trunk in apparently wild eagerness to\\nget it open. She frowned and panted a little\\nto show how hard it was, and he bounded\\nforward to help her. Then she smiled at\\nhim, and he blinked his eyes and tucked the\\nstrap in and chalked her trunk, with a shrug.\\nHe hadn t opened it. She kept her eye on\\nhim and pointed to my trunk, and he chalked\\nthat. Then seven pieces of hand luggage,\\nand he chalked them all. Then she smiled\\non him again, and I thanked him, but he\\ndidn t seem to hear me, and she nodded her\\nthanks and pulled me down a long stone cor-\\nridor to the dining-room where we could get\\nsome coffee.\\nAt the door I looked back. The customs\\nofficer was still looking after my companion,\\nbut she never even saw it.\\nThe dining-room was full of smoke, but\\nthe coffee and my first taste of zwieback were\\ndelicious. Then we went out through a nar-\\nrow doorway to the train, where we were\\nG 97", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\njostled by Frenchmen with their habitual\\nPardon F (which partially reconciles yon\\nto being walked on), and knocked into by\\nmonstrous Germans, who sent us spinning\\nwithout so much as a look of apology, and\\nboth of whom puffed their tobacco smoke di-\\nrectly in cur faces. It was still dark and the\\nrain was whimpering down on the car-roof,\\nand, take it all in all, the situation was far\\nfrom pleasant, but we are hard to depress,\\nand our spirits remain undaunted.\\nIt was so stuffy in our compartment that\\nI stood in the doorway for a few moments\\nnear an open window. My companion was\\nlying down in my berth. We still had nine-\\nteen hours of travel before us with no pros-\\npect of sleep, for sleep in those berths and\\nover such a rough road was absolutely out\\nof the question.\\nNear me (and spitting in the saddest man-\\nner out of the open window) stood the meek\\nlittle American husband of the gray flannel\\nand curl-papers, whose fury at my com-\\npanion for her quick work with the customs\\nofficer knew no boimds.\\nThe gray flannel had gone to bed again in\\nthe compartment next to ours.\\nThe precision of this gentleman s aim as\\nhe expectorated through the open window,\\nand the marvellous rapidity with which he\\nmanaged his diversion, led me to watch him.\\n98", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nHe looked tired and cold and ill. It was\\nstill dark outside, and the jolting of the\\ntrain was almost unbearable. He had not\\nonce looked at me, but with his gaze still on\\nthe darkness he said, slowly,\\nThey can have the whole blamed coun-\\ntry for all of me I don t want it.\\nIt was so exactly the way I felt that even\\nthough he said something worse than\\nblamed, I gave a shriek of delight, and\\nmy companion pounded the pillow in her co-\\noperation of the sentiment.\\nYou are an American and you are\\nSouthern, I said.\\nYes m. How did you know\\nBy your accent.\\nY es m, I was born in Virginia. I was\\nin the Southern army four years, and I love\\nmy country. I hate these blamed foreigners\\nand their blamed churches and their infernal\\nforeign languages. I am over here for my\\nhealth, my wife says. But I have walked\\nmore miles in picture-galleries than I ever\\nmarched in the army. I ve seen more pict-\\nures by Kaphael than he could have painted\\nif he d a had ten arms and painted a thou-\\nsand years without stopping to eat or sleep.\\nI ve seen more old masters, as they call\\nem, but call em daubs, all varnished till\\nthey are so slick that a fly would slip on em\\nand break his neck. And the stone floors are\\n99\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2f", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nso cold tliat I get cold clean up to my knees,\\nand I don t get warm for a week. Yet I am\\nover here for my health Then the way they\\nrob you ^these blamed French! Lord, if I\\never get back to America, where one price in-\\ncludes everything and your hotel bill isn t\\nsent in on a ladder, and where I can keep\\nwarm, won t I just be too thankful.\\nJust then the gray-flannel door banged\\nopen and a hand reached out and jerked the\\npoor little old man inside, and we heard him\\nsay, But I was only blaming the French.\\nI ain t happy over here. And a sharp voice\\nsaid, Well, you ve said enough. Don t talk\\nany more at all. Then she let him out\\nagain, but he did not find me in the corridor.\\nHe found his open window, and he leaned\\nagainst our closed door and again aimed at\\nthe flying landscape, as he pondered over the\\ndisadvantages of Europe.\\nThe sun was just rising over the cathedral\\nas we reached Cologne.\\nLet s get out here and have our break-\\nfast comfortably, see the cathedral, and take\\nthe next train to Berlin, I said to my com-\\npanion.\\nShe is the courier and I am the banker.\\nShe hastily consulted her indicateur and as-\\nsented. We only had about two seconds in\\nwhich to decide.\\nLet s throw these bags out of the win-\\n100", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ndow, she said. IVo seen other people\\ndo it, and the porters catch them/\\nDon t throiv them/ I urged. You\\nwill break my toilet bottles. Poke them out\\ngently.\\nShe did so, and we hopped off the train\\njust at daybreak, perfectly delighted at doing\\nsomething we had not planned.\\nA more lovely sight than the Cologne\\ncathedral, with the rising sun gilding its\\nnumerous pinnacles and spires, would be\\ndifficult to imagine. The narrow streets\\nwere still comparatively dark, and when we\\narrived we heard the majestic notes of the\\norgan in a Bach fugue, and found ourselves\\nat early mass, with rows of humble wor-\\nshippers kneeling before the high altar, and\\nthe twinkle of many candles in the soft\\ngloom. As we stood and watched and lis-\\ntened, the smell of incense floated down to\\nus, and gradually the flrst rays of the sun\\ncrept downward through the superb colored-\\nglass windoAvs and stained the marble statues\\nin their niches into gorgeous hues of purple\\nand scarlet and amber.\\nAnd as the priests intoned and the fresh\\nyoung voices of an invisible choir floated out\\nand the magnificent rumble of the organ\\nshook the very foundation of the cathedral,\\nwe forgot that we were there to visit a sight\\nof Cologne, we forgot our night of discom-\\n101", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfort, we forgot everything but the spirit of\\nworship, and we came away without speak-\\ning.\\n-3^\\nFrom Cologne to Dresden is stupid. We\\nwent through a country punctuated with\\nmyriads of tall chimneys of factories, which\\nreminded us why so many things in England\\nand America are stamped Made in Ger-\\nmany.\\nWe arrived at Dresden at five o clock, and\\ndecided to stop there and go to the opera\\nthat night. The opera begins in Dresden at\\nseven o clock and closes at ten. The best\\nseats are absurdly cheap, and whole fami-\\nlies, whole schools, whole communities, I\\nshould say, were there together. I never saw\\nso many children at an opera in my life.\\nComing straight from Paris, from the the-\\natrical, vivacious, enthusiastic French audi-\\nences, with their abominable claqueurs, this\\nfirst German audience seemed serious,\\nthoughtful, appreciative, but unenthusiastic.\\nThey use more judgment about applause\\nthan the French. They never interrupt a\\nscene or even a musical phrase with mis-\\nplaced applause because the soprano has ex-\\necuted a flamboyant cadenza or the tenor\\nhas reached a higher note than usual. Their\\nappreciation is slow but hearty and always\\nworthily disposed. The French are given\\n102", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nto exaggerating an emotion and to applaud-\\ning an eccentricity. Even their subtlety is\\noverdone.\\nThe German drama is much cleaner than\\nthe French, the family tie is made more of,\\nsentiment is encouraged instead of being\\nridiculed, as it too often is in America; but\\nthe German point of view of Americans\\nis quite as much distorted as the French.\\nThat statement is severe, but true. For in-\\nstance, it would be utterly impossible for\\ntlie American girl to be more exquisitely\\nmisunderstood than by French and German\\nmen.\\nBerlin is so full of electric cars that it\\nseemed much more familiar at first sight\\nthan Paris. It is a lovely city, although we\\nought to have seen it before Paris in order\\nfully to appreciate it. Its Brandenburg\\nGate is most impressive, and I wanted to\\nmake some demonstration every time we\\ndrove under it and realized that the statue\\nabove it has been returned. Their statue of\\nVictory in the Thiergarten is so hideous,\\nhowever, that I was reminded of General\\nSherman s remark when he saw the Pension\\nOffice in Washington, And they tell me\\nthe thing is fireproof P\\nThe streets are filled with beautiful\\nthings, mostly German officers. The only\\ntrouble is that they themselves seem to know\\n103", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nit only too well, and as they will not give iis\\nany of the sidev/alk, we are obliged to admire\\nthem from the gutters. The only way you\\ncan keep Germans from knocking you into\\nthe middle of the street is to v/alk sideways\\nand pretend you are examining the shop\\nwindows.\\nIn the eyes of men, women are of little\\naccount in England compared to the way we\\nare treated in America; of less in France;\\nand of still less in Germany. We have not\\ngot to Russia yet.\\nParis seems a city of leisure, Berlin a\\ncity of war. The streets of Paris are quite\\nas full of soldiers as Berlin, but French\\nsoldiers look to me like mechanical toys. I\\nhave sent Billy a box of them for Christmas\\nof mechanical soldiers, I mean. The\\nchief difference I noticed was that Billy s\\nwere smaller than the live ones, although\\nFrench soldiers are small enough. That\\nportion of the French army which I have\\nseen at Longchamps, Chalons-sur-Marne,\\nSaumur, and at various other places are, as\\na rule, undersized, badly dressed, and badly\\ngroomed. They do not look neat, nor even\\nclean, if you want the truth. The uniform\\nis very ugly, and was evidently designed for\\nmen thirteen feet high so that on those com-\\nical little toy Frenchmen it is grotesque in\\nthe extreme.\\n104", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nTheir trousers are always much too long,\\nand so ample in width that they seem to\\nneed only a belt at the ankle to turn them\\ninto perfect Russian blouses. But English\\nand German soldiers not only appear, but\\nare, in perfect condition, as though they\\ncould go to war at a moment s notice, and\\nwould be glad of the chance.\\nI am keeping my eyes open to see how\\nAmerica bears comparison with other na-\\ntions in all particulars. In point of appear-\\nance the English army stands first, the\\nGerman second, the American third, and the\\nFrench fourth. I put the American third\\nonly because our uniforms are less impres-\\nsive. In everything else, except in numbers,\\nthey might easily stand first. But uniforms\\nand gold lace, and bright scarlet and waving\\nplumes, make a vast difference in appearance,\\nand every country in the world recognizes\\nthis, except America. I wish that everybody\\nin the United States who boasts of democ-\\nracy and Jeffersonian simplicity could share\\nmy dissatisfaction in seeing our ambassadors\\nat Court balls and diplomatic receptions in\\ndeacons suits of modest black, without even\\na medal or decoration of any kind, except\\nperhaps that gorgeous and overpowering in-\\nsignia known as the Loyal Legion button,\\nwhile every little twopenny kingdom of a\\nmile square sends a representative in a uni-\\n105", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nform as brilliant as a peony and stiff with\\ngold embroidery.\\nNo matter how magnificent a man, person-\\nally, our ambassador may be, no matter how\\nvaluable his public services, no matter how\\nunimpeachable his private character, I wish\\nyou could see how small and miserable and\\nmean is the appearance he presents at Court\\nfunctions, where every man there, except the\\nrepresentative of seventy millions of people,\\nis in some sort of uniform. If it really were\\nThomas Jefferson whose administration in-\\naugurated the disgusting simplicity which\\ngoes by his name, I wish the words had stuck\\nin his throat and strangled him. Jeffer-\\nsonian simplicity! How I despise it!\\nThomas Jefferson, I believe, was the first\\nPopulist. We had had gentlemen for Presi-\\ndents before him, but he was the first one who\\nrooted for votes with the common herd by\\ncatering to the gutter instead of to the sky-\\nline, and the tail end of his policy is to be\\nseen in the mortifying appearance of our\\nhighest officials and representatives. Hinc\\nillae lachrymae I\\nI looked at the servant who announced our\\nnames in Paris at General Porter s first\\nofficial reception, and even he was much\\nmore gorgeous in dress than the master of\\nthe house, the Ambassador Extraordinary\\nand Minister Plenipotentiary representing\\n106", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nseventy millions of people! Not even in\\nhis uniform of a general The only man in\\nthe room in plain black. The United States\\nonght to treat her representatives better.\\nWhen Mr. White at Berlin was received by\\nthe Emperor, he, too, was the only man in\\nplain black.\\nNo wonder we are taken no account of\\nsocially Avhen we don t even give our ambas-\\nsador a house, as all the other countries do,\\nand when his salary is so inadequate. Every\\nother ambassador except the American has a\\nfurnished house given him, and a salary\\nsufficient to entertain as becomes the repre-\\nsentative of a great country. All except\\nours! Yet none of them is obliged to enter-\\ntain as continuously as our ambassador, be-\\ncause only Americans travel unremittingly,\\nand only Americans expect their ambassa-\\ndor to be their host.\\nO wad some power the giftie gie us\\nTo see oursels as ithers see us!\\nOf course I notice such things immensely\\nmore in Berlin than in Paris, because the\\nglory of a Court is much more than the\\ntwinkle of a republic.\\nI have worked myself into such a tower-\\ning rage over this subject that there is no\\ngetting down to earth gracefully or gradu-\\n107", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nally. I have not polished off the matter by\\nany manner of means. I have only jnst\\nstarted in, but a row of stars will cool me off.\\nBefore I came to Berlin I heard so much\\nabout Unter den Linden, that magnificent\\nstreet of the city, that I could scarcely wait\\nto get to it. I pictured it lined on both sides\\nwith magnificent linden-trees, gigantic, im-\\nposing, impressive. I had had no intimate\\nacquaintance with linden trees and I\\nwouldn t .know one now if I should see\\nit but I had an idea from the name\\nlinden, linden that it was grand and wav-\\ning; not so grand as an oak nor so waving\\nas a willow, but a cross between the two.\\nI knew that I should see these great mon-\\narchs making a giant arch over this broad\\navenue and mingling their tossing branches\\noverhead.\\nWhat I found when I arrived was a broad^\\nhandsome street. But those lindens They\\nare consumptive, stunted little saplings with-\\nout sufficient energy to grow into real trees.\\nThey are set so far apart that yon have time\\nto forget one before you come to another,\\nand as to their appearance we have some\\njust like them in Chicago where there is a\\nleak in the gas-pipes near their roots.\\nOn the day before Christmas we felt very\\n108", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nlow in our minds. We had the doleful pros-\\npect ahead of us of eating Christmas dinner\\nalone in a strange country, and in a hotel at\\nthat, so we started out shopping. E ot that\\nwe needed a thing, but it is our rule, When\\nyou have the blues, go shopping. It always\\ncures you to spend money.\\nBerlin shop-windows are much more fas-\\ncinating even than those of Paris, because in\\nBerlin there are so many more things that\\nyou can afford to buy that Paris seems ex-\\npensive in comparison. We became so much\\ninterested in the Christmas display that we\\ndid not notice the flight of time. When we\\nliad bought several heavy things to weigh our\\ntrunks down a little more and to pay extra\\nluggage on, I happened to glance at the sun,\\nand it was just above the horizon. It looked\\nto be about four o clock in the afternoon,\\nand we had had nothing to eat since nine\\no clock, and even then only a cup of coffee.\\nI felt myself suddenly grow faint and weak.\\nHeavens I said, see what time it is!\\nWe have shopped all day and we have for-\\ngotten to get our luncheon.\\n[My companion glanced at her watch.\\nIt s only half past eleven o clock by my\\nwatch. I couldn t have wound it last night.\\nNo, it is going.\\nPerhaps the hands stick. They do on\\nmine. Whenever I wind it, I have to hit it\\n109", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwith tlie hair-lDrush to start it and even then\\nit loses time every day.\\nLet s take them both to a jeweller/ she\\nsaid. We can t travel with watches which\\nact this way.\\nSo we left them to be repaired, and as we\\ncame out, I said, It will take ns half an\\nhour to get back to the hotel. Don t you\\nthink we ought to go in somewhere and get\\njust a little something to sustain us\\nOf course we ought, she said, in a\\nweak voice. So we went in and got a light\\nluncheon. Then we went back to the hotel,\\nintending to lie down and rest after such an\\narduous day.\\nWe must not do this again, I said, firm-\\nly. Mamma told me particularly not to\\noverdo.\\nMy companion did not answer. She was\\nlooking at the clock. It was just noon.\\nWhy, that clock has stopped too, she\\nsaid.\\nBut as we .looked into the reading-room\\nthat clock struck twelve. Then it dawned\\non me, and I dropped into a chair and nearly\\nhad hysterics.\\nIt s because we are so far north! I\\ncried. Our watches were all right and the\\nsun s all right. That is as high as it can\\nget!\\nShe was too much astonished to laugh.\\n110", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAnd you had to go in and get luncheon\\nbecause you felt so faint/ she said, in a tone\\nof gentle sarcasm.\\nWell, you confessed to a fearful sense\\nof goneness yourself.\\nDon t tell anybody/ she said.\\nI should think not! I retorted, with\\ndignity. I hope I have some pride.\\nHave you presented your letter to the\\nambassador? she asked.\\nYes, but it s so near Christmas that I\\nsuppose he won t bother about two waifs like\\nus until after it s over.\\nMy but you are blue, she said. I\\nnever heard you refer to yourself as a waif\\nbefore.\\nI am a worm of the dust. I wish there\\nwasn t such a thing as Christmas I wonder\\nwhat Billy will say when he sees his tree.\\nY^ou might cable and find out, she said.\\nIt only costs about three marks a word.\\nWhat did Billy say when he saw his tree V\\nnine words it would cost you about eight\\ndollars, without counting the address.\\nDead silence. I didn t think she was at\\nall funny.\\nDon t you think we ought to have cham-\\npagne to-morrow she asked.\\nWhat for I hate the stuff. It makes\\nme ill. Do you want it\\nNoy only I thought that, being Christ-\\nIll", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nmas, and very expensive, perhaps it would\\ndo you good to spend\\nA knock on the door made us both jump.\\nHis Excellency the Ambassador of the\\nUnited States to see the American ladies\\nIt was, indeed, Mr. White and Mrs. White,\\nand Lieutenant Allen, the Military Attache\\nOh, those blessed angels I cried, buck-\\nling my belt and dashing for the wash-stand,\\nthereby knocking the comb and hand-glass\\nfrom the grasp of my companion.\\nThey had come within an hour of the\\npresentation of my letter, and they brought\\nwith them an invitation from Mrs. Allen for\\nus to join them at Christmas dinner the next\\nday, as Mrs. White said they could not bear\\nto think of our dining alone.\\nI had many beautiful things done for me\\nduring my thirty thousand miles travel in\\nEurope, but nothing stands out in my mind\\nwith more distinctness than the affectionate\\nwelcome I received into the homes of our\\nrepresentatives in Berlin. And, in passing,\\nlet me say this, I am distinctly proud of\\nthem, one and all. I say this because one\\nhears many humiliating anecdotes of the\\nmistakes made by the men and women sent\\nto foreign Courts, appointed because they\\nhad earned some recognition for political\\nservices. Those of us who have strong na-\\ntional pride and a sense of the eternal fit-\\n112", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nncss of things, are obliged to hear such\\nthings in shamed silence, and offer no re-\\ntort, for there can -be no possible excuse for\\nmortifying lapses of etiquette. And these\\nthings will continue until our government\\nestablishes a school of diplomacy and makes\\na diplomatic career possible to a man.\\nAs long as it is possible for an ex-coroner\\nor sheriff to be appointed to a secretaryship\\nof a foreign legation a man who does not\\nspeak the language and wjiose wife under-\\nstands better how to cope with croup and\\nmeasles than with wives of foreign diplo-\\nmats who have been properly trained for this\\nvocation, just so long shall we be obliged to\\nbear the ridicule heaped upon us over here,\\nwhich our government never hears, and\\nwouldn t care if it did!\\nImagine the relief with which I met our\\nBerlin representatives 1 At the end of four\\nyears there will be no sly anecdotes whis-\\npered behind fans at their expense, for they\\nhave all held the same office before and\\nare well equipped by training, education,\\nand native tact to bear themselves with a\\nproud front at one of the most difficult\\nCourts of Europe. I look back upon that\\nlittle group of Americans with feelings of\\nunmixed pride.\\nMr. White invited us to go with him that\\nafternoon to see the tombs of the kings at\\nH 113", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nCharlottenburg and when his gorgeons-\\nliveried footman came to announce his pres-\\nence, the hotel proprietor and about forty of\\nhis menials nearly crawled on their hands\\nand knees before us, so great is their defer-\\nence to pomp and power.\\nI wish to associate Berlin with this beau-\\ntiful mausoleum. It is circular in shape,\\nand the light falls from above through\\nlovely colored-glass windows upon those re-\\ncumbent marble statues. The dignity, the\\nstill, solemn beauty of those pale figures\\nlying there in their eternal repose, fill the\\nsoul with a sense of the great majesty of\\ndeath.\\nWhen we got back to the hotel we found\\nthat the same good fortune which had at-\\ntended lis so far had ordained that the Amer-\\nican mail should arrive that day, and be-\\nhold! there were all our Christmas letters\\ntimed as accurately as if they had only gone\\nfrom Chicago to ^ew York.\\nChristmas letters How they go to the\\nheart when one is five thousand miles away\\nHow we tore up to our rooms, and oh how\\nlong it seemed to get the doors unlocked and\\nthe electric light turned up, and to plant\\nourselves in the middle of the bed to read\\nand laugh and cry and interrupt each other,\\nand to read out paragraphs of Billy s funny\\nbaby-talk\\n114", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nWhile we were still discussing them, the\\nproprietor came up to announce to us that\\nthere was to be a Christmas Eve entertain-\\nment in the main dining-room that evening,\\nand would the American ladies do him the\\nhonor to come down The American ladies\\nwould.\\nWhen we went down we found that the\\nenormous dining-room was packed with peo-\\nple, all standing around a table which ran\\naround two sides of the room. A row of\\nChristmas trees, covered with cotton to rep-\\nresent snow, occupied the middle of the\\nroom, and at one end was a space reserved\\nfor the lady guests, and in each chair was a\\nhandsome bouquet of violets and lilies-of-the-\\nvalley.\\nThis entertainment was for the servants\\nof the hotel, of whom there were three hun-\\ndred and fifty.\\nFirst they sang a Lutheran hymn, very\\nslowly, as if it were a dirge. Then there\\nwas a short sermon. Then another hymn.\\nThen the manager made a little speech and\\ncalled for three cheers for the proprietor,\\nand they gave them with a fervor that nearly\\nsplit the ears of the groundlings.\\nThen a signal was given, and in less than\\none minute three hundred and fifty paper\\nbags were produced, and three hundred and\\nfifty plates full of oranges, apples, buns,\\n115", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\nand sweetened breads were emptied into\\nthem. The table looked as if a plague of\\ngrasshoppers had swept over it.\\nThen each servant presented a number\\nand received a present from the tree, and\\nthat ended the festivity. But so typical of\\nthe fatherland, so paternal, so like one great\\nfamily\\nParticipating in this simple festival\\nbrought a little of the Christmas feeling\\nhome to us and made us almost happy. We\\nknew that our American parcels would not\\nbe delivered until the next day, so we had\\nbut just tinie to reread our precious letters\\nwhen the clock struck twelve, and with much\\nsolemnity my companion and I presented\\neach other with our modest Christmas pres-\\nent ^which each had announced that she\\nwanted and had helped to select But, then,\\nwho would not rather select one s own\\nChristmas presents, and so be sure of get-\\nting things that one wants\\nOn Christmas morning registered pack-\\nages began to arrive for both of us. The\\nfirst ten presents to arrive for my com-\\npanion were pocket handkerchiefs. My\\nfirst ten were all books. Evidently the dear\\nfamily had thought that American books\\nwould be most acceptable over here, and I\\ncould see, with a feeling that warmed my\\nheart, how carefully they had consulted my\\n116", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntaste, and had tried to remember to send\\nthose I wanted. But I am of a frugal mind,\\nand thoughts of th-e extra luggage to be paid\\non bound books would intrude themselves.\\nHowever^ I made no remark over the first\\nten, but before the day was over I had re-\\nceived twenty-two books and one pen-wiper,\\nand my vocabulary was exhausted. My\\ncompanion continued to receive handker-\\nchiefs until the room was full of them. Take\\nit all together, there was a good deal of\\nsameness about our presents, but they have\\nbeen useful as dinner anecdotes ever since.\\nNow that I have sent all mine to be stored\\nat Munroe s, together with all my other ne-\\ncessities, I feel lighter and more buoyant\\nboth in mind and trunk.\\nA Christmas dinner in a foreign land, in\\nthe midst of the diplomatic corps, is the most\\nundiplomatic thing in the world, for that is\\nthe one time when you can cease to be diplo-\\nmatic and dare to criticise the government\\nand make personal remarks to your heart s\\ncontent.\\nIt was a beautiful dinner, and after it\\nwas over we were all invited to the chil-\\ndren s entertainment at Mrs. Squiers s. She\\nhad gathered about fifty of the American\\ncolony for Christmas carols and a tree.\\nImmediately after the ambassador arrived\\nthe children marched in and recited in\\n117", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nchorus the verses about the birth of Christ,\\nbeginning, Now in the days of Herod the\\nKing. Then they sang their carols, and\\nthen Stille Nacht, and they sang them\\nbeautifully, in their sweet, childish voices.\\nAfter these exercises the doors were\\nthrown open, and the most beautiful Christ-\\nmas-tree I ever beheld burst upon the view\\nof those children, who nearly went wild with\\ndelight.\\nAfter everybody had gone home except\\nthe diplomatic family, which for the time\\nbeing included us, we picnicked on the re-\\nmains of the Christmas turkey for supper,\\nand there was as little ceremony about it as\\nif it had been at an army post on the fron-\\ntier. We had a beautiful time, and every-\\nbody seemed to like everybody very much\\nand to be excellent friends.\\nThen Mr. and Mrs. White escorted us\\nback to our hotel, which wasn t at all nec-\\nessary, but which illustrates the way in\\nwhich they treated us all the time we were\\nthere.\\nThis ended a truly beautiful Christmas,\\nfor, aside from being unexpected and in\\nstriking contrast to the forlornness we had\\nanticipated, we had been taken into the fami-\\nlies of beautiful people, whose home life was\\nan honor and an inspiration to share.\\nOn New Year s day we started early and\\n118", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwent to Potsdam to visit the palace of Sans\\nSoiici.\\nA most curious and interesting little old\\nman who had been a guide there for thirty\\nyears showed us through the grounds, where\\nthe King s greyhounds are buried, and where\\nhe pleaded to be buried with them. The\\nguide had no idea that he possessed a certain\\ndramatic genius for pathos, for, parrot-like,\\nhe was repeating the story he had told per-\\nhaps a thousand times before. But when he\\nshowed us the graves of the greyhounds\\nwhich ate the poisoned food which had been\\nprepared for the King, he said\\nAnd they lie here. Xot there with the\\nother dogs, the favorites of the King, but\\nhere, alone, disgraced, without even a head-\\nstone. Without even their names, although\\nthey saved the great King from death and\\ngave their lives for his. Yet they lie here,\\nand the others lie there. It is the way of\\nthe world, ladies.\\nThen he took us to the top of the terrace\\nfacing the palace, and, pointing to the en-\\ntrance, he said:\\nIn the left wing were the chambers of\\nthe King s guests. In the right wing were his\\nown. Therefore, he placed a comma between\\nthose two words Sans and Souci, to indi-\\ncate that those at the left were without,\\nwhile with himself was Care.\\n119", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nWhile we were there the Emperor drove\\nby and spoke to our cabman, saying, How\\nis business Seeing how mnch pleasure it\\ngave the poor fellow to repeat it, we kept\\nasking him to tell ns what the Kaiser said to\\nhim.\\nFirst my companion would say:\\nWhen was it and what happened\\nAnd when he had quite finished, I would\\nsay:\\nIt wasn t the Emperor himself, was it\\nIt must have been the coachman who spoke\\nto you.\\nNo, not so, ladies. It was the great\\nKaiser himself. He said to me And\\nthen we would get the whole thing over\\nagain. It was charming to see his pleas-\\nure.\\nWhen we returned home we entered the\\nhotel between rows of palms, and we dropped\\nmoney into each of them. It seemed to me\\nthat fifty servants were between me and the\\nelevators. However, it was New Year s, and\\nwe tried not to be bored by it.\\nPeople talk so much of the expense of\\nforeign travel, but to my mind the greatest\\nexpenditures are in paying for extra luggage\\nand in fees. Otherwise, I fancy that\\ntravel is much the same if one travels luxu-\\nriously, and that in the long run things\\nwould be about equal. The great difference\\n120", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nis that in America all travel luxuries are\\ngiven to yon for the price of yonr ticket, and\\nhere yon pay for each separate necessity, to\\nsay nothing of luxury, and your ticket only\\npermits you to breathe. But the annoyance\\nof this continuous habit of feeing makes life\\na burden. One pays for everything. It is\\nthe custom of the country, and no matter if\\nyou arrange to have service included, it is\\nin the air, in the eyes of the servants, in the\\nwhole mental atmosphere, and you fee, you\\nfee, you fee until you are nearly dead from\\nthe bother of it. In Germany they raise\\ntheir hats and rise to their feet every time\\nyou pass, even if you pass every seven min-\\nutes, and when the time comes for you to go,\\nyou have to pay for the wear and tear of\\nthese hats.\\nIn Paris, at the theatre, you fee the wom-\\nan who shows you to your seat, you fee the\\nwoman who opens the door and the woman\\nwho takes your wraps. One night in mid-\\nsummer we stepped across from the Grand\\nHotel to the opera without even a scarf for a\\nwrap, and the woman was so disappointed\\nthat we were handed from one attendant to\\nanother some half dozen times as three\\nladies without wraps. And the next one\\nwould look us over from head to foot and re-\\npeat the words, Three ladies without\\nwraps, until we laughed in their faces.\\n121", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nFrench servants are the cleverest in the\\nworld if you want versatility, bnt thej are\\nabsolutely shameless in their greed, and look\\nat the size of yonr coin before they thank\\nyou. In fact, the words in which they thank\\nyou indicate whether your fee was not\\nenough, only modest, or handsome.\\nIt is not too much, madam, or thanks,\\nmadam, or I thank you a thousand\\ntimes show your status in their estima-\\ntion.\\nIf you are an American they reserve the\\nright to rob you by the impudence of their\\ndemands, until rather than have a scene,\\nyou give them all they ask. I have fol-\\nlowed in the footsteps of a French woman\\nand given exactly what she did, and had\\nmy money flung in derision upon the pave-\\nment.\\nGerman servants seem to have more self-\\nrespect, for while they expect it quite as\\nmuch, they smile and thank you and never\\nlook at the coin before your eyes. Perhaps\\nthey know from, the feeling of it, but even\\nif you place it upon the table behind them\\nthey thank you and never look at it or take\\nit until you turn away.\\nHowever, you fee unmercifully here too.\\nYou fee the man at the bank who cashes\\nyour checks, you fee the street-car conductor\\nwho takes your fare, you fee every uni-\\n122", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nformed hireling of the government, whether\\nlie has done anything for you or not.\\nThe only persons whom I have neglected\\nto fee so far are the ambassadors.\\nBut then, they do not wear uniforms!", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "lY\\nI AM just able to sit up, and I couldn t\\nthink of a thing I wanted to eat if I thought\\na week. I came on this yachting trip be-\\ncause my friends begged me to. They said\\nit would be an experience for me. It has\\nbeen.\\nThe Hela started out with a party of ten\\non board, who were on pleasure bent. We\\nhave come up the English Channel from Di-\\nnard to Ostend, but before we had been out\\nan hour we struck a gale, to which veterans\\non seasickness will refer for many a long\\nday as that fearful time on the Channel.\\nOn the whole, I don t know but that I\\nmyself might be considered a veteran on sea-\\nsickness. I have averaged crossing the Chan-\\nnel once a month ever since I ve been over\\nhere. I have got into the habit of crossing\\nthe Channel, and I can t seem to stop. It\\nalways appears that I am in the wrong place\\nfor whatever is going on, for just as sure as\\nI go to London somebody sends for me to\\n124", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncome to Paris, and I rusli for the Cliamiel,\\nand I have no sooner unpacked my trunks\\nin Paris, and bargained that service and\\nelectric lights shall be included, than some-\\nbody discovers that I am imperatively need-\\ned in England, and I make for the Channel\\nagain. The Channel is like Jordan. It\\nalways rolls between.\\nBut even in crossing the Channel there is\\neverytliing in knowing how. I have discard-\\ned the private state-room. It is too expen-\\nsive, and I am not a bit less uncomfortable\\nthan when occupying six feet of the settee in\\nthe ladies cabin, with my feet in the flowers\\nof another woman s hat. In fact, I prefer\\nthe latter. The other woman is always too\\nill to protest or to move. I have now, by\\nlong and patient practice, proved to my own\\nsatisfaction what serves me best in case of\\nseasickness. I will not stay on deck. I\\nwill not eat or drink anj^thing to cure it. I\\nwill not take anything to prevent it. I will\\nnot sit up, and I will not keep my hat on.\\nWhen I go on board of a Channel steamer\\nmy first act is to shake hands with my\\nfriends and to go below. There I present the\\nstewardess with a modest testimonial of my\\nregard. I also give her my ticket. Then\\nI select the most desirable portion of the set-\\ntee, near a port-hole, from which I can get\\nfresh air. I take off my hat and lie down.\\n125", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe steamer may not start for an hour. No\\nmatter. There I am, and there I stay.\\nThe Channel may be as smooth as glass, but\\nI travel better flat. Like manuscrijDt, I am\\nnot to be rolled. Sometimes I am not ill at\\nall, but I freely confess that those times are\\ninfrequent and disappointing.\\nISTow, of course, this is always to be ex-\\npected in crossing the Channel, but my\\nfriends said in going up the Channel we\\nwould not get those choppy waves, and\\nthat I would find that the Hela swam like\\na duck.\\nIn analyzing that statement since, with a\\nview to classifying it as truth or otherwise,\\nI have studied my recollections of ducks,\\nand I have come to the conclusion that in a\\nrough sea a duck has every right to be sea-\\nsick, for she wobbles like everything else\\nthat floats. For real comfort, give me some-\\nthing that s anchored. I^evertheless, I was\\npersuaded to join the party.\\nEverybody came down at Dinar d to see\\nus off, and quite a number even went over\\nto St. Malo with us in the electric launch,\\nfor the Hela drew too much water to enter\\nthe harbor at Dinard at low tide.\\nWe were a merry party for the first hour\\non board the Hela until we struck the\\ngale. It has seemed to me since that our\\nevil genius was hovering over us from the\\n126", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfirst, and simply waited until it would be out\\nof the question to turn back before emptying\\nthe vials of her wrath on our devoted heads.\\nIt did not rain. The sun kept a malevolent\\neye upon us all the time. It simply blew\\njust one straight, unrelenting, unswerving\\ngale. And it came so suddenly. We were\\nall sitting on deck as happy as angels, when,\\nwithout a word of warning, the Hela simply\\nturned over on her side and threw us all out\\nof our chairs. I caught at a mast as I went\\nby and clung like a limpet. There was tar\\non the mast. It isn t there any more. It\\nis on the front of my new white serge yacht-\\ning dress. Jimmie coasted across the deck,\\nand landed on his hands and knees against\\nthe gunwale. If he had persisted in stand-\\ning up he would have gone overboard. The\\nwomen all shrieked and remained in a tan-\\ngled heap of chairs, and. rugs, and petticoats,\\nwaiting for the yacht to right herself, and\\nfor the men to come and pick them up. But\\nthe yacht showed no intention of righting\\nherself. She continued to careen in the\\nposition of a cab going round Piccadilly\\nCircus on one wheel. The sailors were all\\nrunning around like ants on an ant-hill, and\\nthe captain was shouting orders, and even\\nlending a hand with the ropes himself. I\\ndon t know the nautical terms, but they were\\ntaking down the middle sail the mainsail,\\n127", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthat s it. It did not look dangerous, because\\nthe sun kept shining, and I never thought of\\nbeing frightened. I just clung to the mast,\\nwatching the other people right themselves,\\nand laughing, when suddenly everything\\nceased to be funny. The decks of the Hela\\ntook on a wavy motion, and I blinked my eyes\\nin order to see better, for everything was\\ngetting very indistinct, and there were green\\nspots on the sun. Suddenly I realized that\\nI was a long way from home, and that I was\\neven a long way from my state-room. I only\\nhad just about sense enough left to remember\\nthat the mast was my very best friend and\\nthat I must cling there.\\nAfter that, I remember that somebody\\ncame up behind me and pried my hands loose\\nfrom the mast.\\nThe doctor s voice said, Can you walk\\nI smiled feebly and said, I used to\\nknow how. But evidently my efforts were\\nnot highly successful, for he picked me up,\\nwhite serge, tar, green spots on the sun, and\\nall, and carried me below, a limp and hu-\\nmiliated bit of humanity.\\nMrs. Jimmie and Commodore Strossi\\nfollowed with more anxiety than the occasion\\nwarranted.\\nThen Mrs. Jimmie sent the men away,\\nand I felt pillows under my head, and cam-\\nphor under my nose, and hot-water bags\\n128", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nabout me; and I must have gone to sleep or\\ndied, or something, for I don t remember\\nanything more until the next day.\\nThey were very nice to me, for I was such\\na cheerful invalid. It seemed to surprise\\nthem that I could even pretend to be happy.\\nI knew that it must be an uncommon gale\\nfrom the way Commodore Strossi studied the\\ncharts, and because even his wife, for whom\\nthe yacht was named, was ill, and she had\\nspent half her life on the sea. The poor\\nlittle French cabin-boy was ill, too, and went\\naround, with a Xile-green countenance,\\nwaiting on people, before he w^as obliged to\\nretire from active service.\\nThe pitching of the yacht was something\\nso terrible that it got to be hysterically fun-\\nny. It couldn t seem dangerous with the\\nsun streaming down the companion-way and\\npast my state-room windows. About ^Ye\\no clock on the second day they began to tack,\\nand then I heard shrieks of laughter and the\\ncrash of china, and groans from the saloon\\nsettee, where young Bashforth was lying\\nghastly ill.\\nAt the first lurch my trunk tipped over,\\nand all the bottles on the wash-stand bound-\\ned across to the bed, and most of them struck\\nme on the head. It frightened me so that I\\nshrieked, and Jimmie came running down\\nto see if I was killed.\\nI 129", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAs I raised my head I saw Ms horrified\\ngaze fairly riveted to my face, and I felt\\nsomething softly trickling down. I touched\\nit, and then looked at my hand and discov-\\nered that it was wet and red.\\nGood heavens, yonr face is all cut\\nopen/ gasped Jimmie, in a voice that re-\\nvealed his terror.\\nMrs. Jimmie was just behind him, and I\\nsaw her turn pale. In a flash I saw myself\\ndisfigured for life, and probably having to\\nbe sewed up. The pain in my face became\\nexcruciating, and I began to think yachting\\nrather serious business.\\nRun for the doctor, Jimmie, said his\\nwife. Jimmie obediently ran.\\nDoes it hurt very much, dear she\\nsaid, sitting on the edge of the bed.\\nAwfully, I murmured.\\nThe doctor came, followed by Francois,\\nwith a basin of hot water and sponges, and\\na nasty-looking little case of instruments.\\nMrs. Jimmie held my hand. They turned on\\nthe electric lights and opened the windows.\\nJimmie had my salts. The doctor careful-\\nly wet a sponge and tenderly bathed my\\ncheek, and I held my breath ready to shriek\\nif he hurt me. Commodore Strossi stood\\nat the door with an anxious face. Sudden-\\nly the doctor reached for a broken bottle half\\nhidden under my pillow.\\n130", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nOh, what is it, doctor? asked Mrs.\\nJimmie. What makes you look so\\nqueer\\nThis is iodine on her face. Her bottle\\nhas emptied itself. That is all.\\nWe gazed at each other for a moment or\\ntwo, then I nearly went into hysterics. Jim-\\nmie s face was a study.\\nYou said it was blood, Jimmie, I said.\\nWell, you said it hurt, he retorted.\\nWell, it did. When you said I was\\ncovered with blood it hurt awfully.\\nThe doctor went out much chagrined that\\nhe had not been called upon to sew up a\\nwound. I had a relapse, brought on by\\nyoung Bash forth s jeering remarks as he\\nfrantically clung to the handles of the locker\\nwhich formed the back of the settee where\\nhe lay prostrate.\\nI was too utterly done up to reply, for\\ntwo days violent seasickness rather takes\\nthe mental ginger out of one s make-up.\\nBut Fate avenged me in this wise. The door\\nof my state-room opened int^ the dining-\\nroom, and my bed faced the door. Opposite\\nto me was the settee on which Bashforth was\\ncoiled, and back of him was the locker for the\\ntinned mushrooms, sardines, lobster, shrimp,\\ncaviar, deviled ham, and all the things which\\nwell people can eat. This locker had brass\\nhandles let into the mahogany, and to these\\n131", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhandles the poor fellow clung when the yacht\\nlurched.\\nHis cruel words of derision had hardly\\nleft his pale lips before they tacked again.\\nHe was not holding on, but he hastily\\nsnatched at the handles. He was too late,\\nhowever, for he was tossed from the settee\\nto the legs of the dining-room table (which,\\nfortunately, were anchored) without touch-\\ning the floor at all. He described a perfect\\nparabola. It was just the way I should have\\ntossed him had I been Destiny. He gripped\\nthe table-legs like a vise, coiling himself\\naround them like a poor navy-blue python\\nwith a green face. He thought the worst\\nwas over, but in his last clutch at the locker\\nhe had accidentally opened it, and at the\\nnext lurch of the yacht all the cans bounded\\nout and battered his unprotected back like a\\nshower of grape-shot. The yacht lurched\\nagain and the cans rolled back. She pitched\\nforward, and again the mushrooms and dev-\\niled ham aimed for him. The noise brought\\neverybody, and at first nobody tried to help\\nhim. They just couldn t see because of the\\ntears in their eyes from laughing. As for\\nme, I managed to crawl to the foot of the\\nbed and cling to a post, so weak I couldn t\\nwipe the tears away, but laying up an\\namount of enjoyment which will enrich my\\nold age.\\n132", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nFinally, Jimmie got sorry for him, and\\nwent and, tried to pick him up. But he was\\nlaughing so, he dropped him.\\nOh, Jimmie,^ I pleaded. Don t drop\\nanybody who is seasick. Drop well people if\\nyou must. But put him on the settee care-\\nfully.\\nI ll put him there, said Jimmie, wiping\\nhis eyes on his coat-sleeve. But I don t\\nsay I ll do it the first time I try. I ll get\\nhim there by dinner-time: I hope.\\nIt was dangerous to ridicule anybody in\\nthat gale, for the doctor in the companion-\\nway was leaning in at my window and laugh-\\ning in his big English voice, when the Hela\\nlurched and pitched him half-way into my\\nstate-room. There he balanced with his\\nhands on my trunk.\\nHe was rather a tight fit, which interested\\nJimmie more than young Bashforth, so he\\nleft the boy and came around and pried the\\ndoctor back into the companion-way.\\nThe Hela was a fickle jade, for no sooner\\nwould she shake us up in such an alarming\\nmanner than she would seem to regret her\\nviolence, and would skim like a bird for an\\nhour or so, with no perceptible motion. She\\nw^ould not even flap her big Avhite wings, but\\nshe cut through the water with a whir and a\\nrush which exhilarated me as flying must\\nstir the heart of a sea-gull.\\n133", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nShe beliaved so well after five o clock that\\nthey decided to try to eat dinner from the\\ndinner-table a thing they had not done\\nsince we started. There were only four of\\nthem able to appear Mr. and Mrs. Jimmie,\\nthe doctor, and the Commodore.\\nThey pnt the racks np and took every pre-\\ncaution. The only mistake they made was in\\nusing the yacht s lovely china, which bore the\\nStrossi crest under the Uelas private flag.\\nJimmie and his wife sat opposite each\\nother. I put three pillows under my head,\\nthe better to watch them, when suddenly the\\nyacht tilted Mrs. Jimmie and her chair over\\nbackward. Jimmie saw her going and\\nreached to save her. But he forgot to set\\ndown his soup-plate. The result was that\\nshe got Jimmie s soup in her face, and that\\nhe slid clear across the table on his hands and\\nknees, taking china and table-cloth with him,\\nand they all landed on top of poor Mrs. Jim-\\nmie (who, even as I write, is in her state-\\nroom having her hair washed).\\nHer chief wail, when she could speak, was\\nnot that her head ached from the blow, or\\nthat she was half strangled with tepid soup,\\nbut that Jimmie had broken all the china.\\nShe could not be comforted until the Com-\\nmodore proved that some of the china had\\nbeen broken previously, by showing her the\\nfragments wrecked on the first day out.\\n134", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThat last catastrophe has apparently\\nsettled things. Everybody has turned in to\\nrepair damages, and, perhaps, afterwards to\\nsleep.\\nThe Commodore is stiidyin_i the charts on\\nthe dining-room table, and the captain, an\\nAmerican, has just put his head in at the\\ndoor and said\\nShe s sailing twelve knots an hour under\\njust the fores l, sir, and she s running like a\\nscairt dog.\\nAmericans are so accustomed to out-\\nrageous distances that a journey of fifty\\nhours is mere play. But I sincerely believe\\nthat no other trait of ours causes the Euro-\\npean to regard our nation with such sus-\\npicion as our utter unconcern of long jour-\\nneys. Nothing short of accession to a title\\nor to escape being caught by the police\\nwould induce the Continental to travel over\\na few hours. So when I decided to go to\\nPoland in order to be a member of a\\ngorgeous house-party, I might as well have\\nrobbed a bank and given my friends some-\\nthing to be suspicious of. They never be-\\nlieved that I would do such a fatiguing and\\nunheard-of thing until I really left.\\nBut Poland has always beckoned me like a\\nfriend a friend which combined all the\\n135", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\npoetry, romance, fascination, nobility, and\\nhonor of a first love. If the Pole is prond,\\nhe has something to be prond of. His honor\\nhas dignity. His country s sorrows touch\\nthe heart. Polish literature has sentiment,\\nher music has fire, her men of genius stand\\nout like heroes, her women are adorable.\\nBalzac describes not only one but a not in-\\nfrequent type when he dedicates Modeste\\nMignon To a Polish Lady in the most ex-\\nquisite apostrophe which ever graced the\\nentrance-hall to one of the noblest novels of\\nthis inimitable master.\\nDaughter of an enslaved land, angel\\nthrough love, witch through fancy, child by\\nfaith, aged by experience, man in brain,\\nwoman in heart, giant by hope, mother\\nthrough sorrow, poet in thy dreams, to Thee\\nbelongs this book, in which thy love, thy\\nfancy, thy experience, thy sorrow, thy hope,\\nthy dreams, are the warp through which is\\nshot a woof less brilliant than the poesy of\\nthy soul, whose expression when it shines\\nupon thy countenance is, to those who love\\nthee, what the characters of a lost language\\nare to scholars.\\nSuch a tribute as this would of itself be\\nsufficient to turn the heart expectantly tow-\\nards Poland, to say nothing of the interest\\nher history has for the brain. The history\\nof Poland is one long struggle for home and\\n136", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncountry. The Pole is a patriot by inheri-\\ntance. Ilis patriotism goes deeper than his\\nh)ve.\\nHis country comes first in his soul, and\\nfor that reason the Poles have in me an en-\\nthusiastic ally, an ardent admirer, and a sym-\\npathetic friend.\\nIn speaking of the story of Poland with a\\ncold-blooded reader of history I expressed\\nmy appreciation of the noble proportions of\\ntheir struggles and my sympathy for their\\npresent unfortunate plight, to which she re-\\nplied: Yes, but it is so entirely their own\\nfault. They are so fiery, so precipitate, so\\nromantic. They got themselves into it!\\nTheir poesy and romance and folly make\\nthem charming as individuals, but ridiculous\\nas a nation. I like the Poles, but I have no\\npatience with Poland. How exactly the\\nworld s verdict on the artistic temperament\\nThere is a round hole, and, lo and behold\\nall squares must be forced into it\\nSuppose that everything resolved itself\\ninto the commonplace; wdiere would be your\\nimagination, your fancy, your rich experi-\\nence of the heart and soul Poland fur-\\nnishes just this element in history. Her\\nstruggles are so romantic, her follies so\\ncharmingly natural to a high-strung nation,\\nher despair so profound, her frequent revolu-\\ntions so buoyant in hope, that she reminds\\n137", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nme of a brilliant woman striving to make\\ndull women understand her, and failing as\\npersistently and completely as the artistic\\ntemperament always fails.\\nA frog spat at a glowworm. Why do\\nyou spit at mef said the glowworm.\\nWhy do you shine so V^- said the frog.\\nPoland s singers have voices so piercingly\\nsweet; her novelists have pens touched with\\nsuch divine fire her actors portray so much\\nof the soul; her patriots have always shown\\nsuch reckless and inspiring bravery; and\\nnow, in her desolation and subjection, there\\nis still so much pride, such noble dignity\\nunder her losses, that of all the countries in\\nthe world Poland holds both the heart and\\nmind by a fascination of which she herself\\nis unconscious, marking a noble simplicity\\nof soul which is in itself an added indication\\nof her queenly inheritance.\\nJulia Marlowe in her Countess Ya-\\nle sha is a Pole to her finger-tips. Her\\nacting is superb. Cleopatra herself never\\nfelt nor inspired, a diviner passion than Va-\\nleska but when it came to a question of her\\nlove or her country she rose above self with\\nan almost superhuman effort and saved her\\ncountry at the expense of her love.\\nJSTo American who has not the same awful\\npassion of patriotism; no one who is not a\\nlover of his country above home or friends or\\n138", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwife or children; who does not love his\\nAmerica second only to his God whose blood\\ndoes not prickle in his veins at the sound of\\nThe Star-Spangled Banner, and whose\\neyes do not fill with tears at the sight of\\nOld Glory floating any^vhere, can under-\\nstand of what patriotism the Pole is capable.\\nN^or can one who has not the foolish, ro-\\nmantic, nervous, high-strung, artistic tem-\\nperament understand from within Poland s\\nnational history. For that reason one is apt\\nto find famous places in Europe which have\\nonly an historical significance somewhat dis-\\nappointing. One fails to find in a battle\\nfought for the sake of conquest by an over-\\nweening ambition such soul-stirring pathos\\nas in the leading of a forlorn hope from the\\nspirit of patriotism, or of a woman s plead-\\nings where a man s arguments have failed.\\nFor that reason Austerlitz touches one not\\nso nearly as the struggle around Memel. As\\nwe drew near Memel things began to look\\nlonely and foreign and queer, and its pict-\\nuresque features were enhanced by recollec-\\ntion of ^N^apoleon and Queen Louise.\\nMemel is near Tilsit, and the river ITie-\\nmen, or Memel, empties into the Baltic just\\nbelow here. The conference on the raft ap-\\npeals to me as one of the most thrilling and\\nyet pitiably human events in all history.\\nIts sickening anticlimax to poor Queen\\n139", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nLouise was so exactly in keeping with the\\nsmaller disappointments which assail her\\nmore humble sister women in every walk of\\nlife that it takes on the air of a heart tragedy.\\nI tried to imagine the feelings of the Queen\\nwhen she journeyed to Memel to hold her\\nfamous interview with Napoleon. How her\\npride must have suffered at the thought of\\nlowering herself to plead for her husband\\nand her country at Napoleon s hands How\\nshe hated him before she saw him How she\\nmore than hated him after she left him!\\nHow she must have scorned the beauty upon\\nwhich Napoleon commented so idly when a\\nnation s honor was at stake! A typical act\\nof the emperor of the French nation! Na-\\npoleon proved by that one episode that he\\nwas more French than Corsican.\\nIn the Queen s illness at Memel she was so\\npoorly housed that long lines of snow sifted\\nin through the roof and fell across her bed.\\nBut that was as nothing to her mental dis-\\nquiet while the fate of her beloved Prussia\\nhung in the balance.\\nThere is a bridge across the Memel at the\\nexact spot where the famous raft conference\\nis said to have taken place. As we crossed\\nthis bridge it seemed so far removed from\\nthose stormy daj^s of strife that it was diffi-\\ncult to imagine the magnificent spectacle of\\nthe immense armies of Napoleon and Alex-\\n140", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nancler drawn up on either bank, while these\\ntwo powerful monarchs were rowed out to\\nthe raft to decide the fate of Frederick\\nWilliam and his lovely queen.\\nAnd although to them Prussia was the\\nissue of the hour, how like the history of in-\\ndividual lives was this conference I For Prus-\\nsia s fate was almost ignored, while the con-\\nversation originally intended to consume but\\na few moments lengthened into hours, and\\nNapoleon and xilexander, having sworn eter-\\nnal friendship, proceeded to divide up Europe\\nbetween tliem, and parted with mutual ex-\\npressions of esteem and admiration, having\\nquite forgotten a trifle like the King and\\nQueen of Prussia and their rage of anxiety.\\nBut all these memories of ISTapoleon and\\nPrussia gave way before the vital fact that\\nwe were to visit a lovely Polish princess and\\nsee some of her charming home life. I had\\nbeen duly informed by my friends of the\\nvarious ceremonies which I would encoun-\\nter, and which, I must confess, rendered me\\nrather timid. I only hoped my wits would\\nnot desert me at the crucial moment.\\nFor instance, if the archbishop were there\\nI must give him my hand and then lean for-\\nw^ard and kiss his sleeve just below the shoul-\\nder. I only hoped my chattering teeth would\\nnot meet in his robe. So when I saw the\\nstate carriage of the princess at the station\\n141", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "^AS SEEN BY ME\\nof Memel, drawn by four horses, and with\\nnumbers of servants in such queer liveries to\\nattend to my luggage, I simply breathed a\\nprayer that I would get through it all suc-\\ncessfully and if not, that they would lay any\\nlapses at the door of my own eccentricities,\\nand not to the ignorance of Americans in\\ngeneral, for I never wish to disgrace my\\nnative land.\\nThe servants wore an odd flat cap, like a\\ntam-o -shanter with a visor. Their coats\\nwere of bright blue, with the coat-of-arms of\\nthe princess on the brass buttons. This coat\\nreached nearly to their feet, and in the back\\nit was gatherod full and stiffened with can-\\nvas, for all the world like a woman s pannier.\\nI thought I should die the first time, I got\\na side view of those men.\\nIt was late Friday afternoon when we left\\nthe train, and we drove at a tremendous pace\\nthrough lonely forests Avhich we were only\\ntoo happy to leave behind us. Suddenly we\\ncame upon the little village of Kretynga,\\nwhose streets were paved with cobblestones\\nthe size of a man s two fists.\\nTo drive slowly over cobblestones is not a\\njoy, but to drive four Russian horses at a\\ngallop over such cobblestones as those was\\nsomething to make you bite your tongue and\\nto break your teeth and to shake your very\\nsoul from its socket.\\n142", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe town is inhabited by Polish Jews, and\\na filthy, greasy, nauseating set they are, both\\nmen and women. The men wear two or\\nthree long, oily, tight curls in front of their\\nears. Their noses are hooked like a parrot s.\\nTheir countenances are sinister, and I be-\\nlieve they have not washed since the Flood.\\nThe women, when they marry, shave their\\nheads. Then they either wear huge wigs,\\nwhich they use to wipe their hands on with-\\nout the ceremony of washing them first, or\\nelse they wear a black or white or gray satin\\nhood-piece with a line to imitate the parting\\nof the hair embroidered on it.\\nIvTothing is clean about them. I no longer\\nwonder that Jews are expelled from Russia.\\nIt makes one rather respect Russia as a clean\\ncountry. As it was Friday night, one win-\\ndow-sill in each house was filled with a row\\nof lighted candles representing each mem-\\nber of the family who was either absent or\\ndead.\\nBeing so far away from home myself, this\\nappealed to me as such a touching custom\\nthat it made my eyes smart.\\nPresently a clearing in the forest revealed\\nthe famous monastery of Kretynga a mon-\\nastery famous for being peopled with priests\\nand monks whom the Tzar has exiled because\\nthey took too much interest in politics for his\\nnerves. Then soon after passing this monas-\\n143", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntery we entered the gronnds of the castle.\\nStill the longest part of the drive lay before\\nus, for this one of the many estates of the\\nPrincess lies between the Memel and the\\nBaltic Sea, and covers a large territory.\\nBut finally, after driving through an\\navenue of trees which are worth a dictionary\\nof words all to themselves, we came to the\\ncastle, a huge structure, which seemed to\\nspread out before us interminably, for it was\\ntoo dark to see anything but its majestic out-\\nlines.\\nThe Princess in her own home v/as even\\nlovelier than she had been in Paris, and\\ncharitably allowed us to have one night s rest\\nbefore meeting the family.\\nAbout three o clock in the morning I\\nwas awakened by a mournful chant, all in\\nminor, which began beneath my windows\\nand receded, growing fainter and fainter,\\nuntil at last it died away. It was the hymn\\nwhich the peasants always sing as they go\\nforth to their work in the fields; but its\\nmournful cadence haunted me. The next\\nmorning the largeness of the situation\\ndawned upon me. The size of the rooms\\nand their majestic furnishings were almost\\nbarbaric in their splendor. The tray upon\\nwhich my breakfast was served was of mas-\\nsive silver. The coffee-pot, sugar-bowl, and\\nplates were of repousse silver, exquisitely\\n144", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwrought, but so large tliat one could hardly\\nlift tiicm.\\nIn a great openwork basket of silver were\\nany number of sweetened breads and small\\ncakes and buns, all made by the baker in the\\ncastle, who all day long does nothing but\\nbake bread and pastry. They do not serve\\nhot milk with coffee, for which I blessed\\nthem from the bottom of my soul, but they\\nhave little bro^vn porcelain jugs which they\\nfill with cream so thick that you have to take\\nit out with a spoon it won t pour.; and\\nthese they heat in ovens, and so serve you hot\\ncream for your coffee.\\nI call the gods from Olympus to testify to\\nthe quality of the nectar this combination\\nproduces. Some of those little porcelain\\njugs are going on their travels soon.\\nMeeting the various members of the Prin-\\ncess s charming family and remembering\\ntheir titles was not an ordeal at all at least\\nit was not after it was over. They were\\nquite like other people, except that their\\nmanners were unusually good. There was\\nto be a hunt that morning an amusing,\\nluxurious sort of hunt quite in my line;\\none where I could go in a carriage and see\\nthe animals caught, but where I need not see\\nthem killed.\\nThey were to hunt a mischievous little\\nburrowing animal something like our bad-\\nK 145", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ngQV, which is as great a pest to Poland as the\\nrabbits are to Australia. They destroy the\\ncrops by eating their roots, so every little\\nwhile a hunt is organized to destroy them in\\nlarge numbers. The foresters had been sent\\nout the night before to discover a favorite\\nhaunt of theirs, and to fill up all the en-\\ntrances to their burrows; so all that we had\\nto do was to drive to the scene of action.\\nIt sounds simple enough, but I most sol-\\nemnly assure you that it was anything but a\\nsimple drive to one fresh from the asphalt\\nof Paris, for, like Jehu, they drove furi-\\nously.\\nTheir horses are all wild, runaway\\nbeasts, and they drive them at an uneven\\ngallop resembling the gait of our fire-engine\\nhorses at home, except that ours go more\\nslowly. Sometimes the horses fall down\\nwhen they drive across country, as they stop\\nonly for stone walls or moats. The carriages\\nmust be built of iron, for the front wheels\\ndrop a few feet into a burrow every now and\\nthen, and at such times an unwary American\\nis liable to be pitched over the coachman s\\nhead. Hold on with both hands, shut\\nyour eyes, and keep your tongue from be-\\ntween your teeth, would be my instructions\\nto one about to take a drive in Poland.\\nWhen we came to the place we found the\\nforesters watching the daclishunde. These I\\n146", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ndiscovered to be long, flat, shallow dogs with\\nstumpy legs a dog which an American has\\ndescribed as looking as if he was always\\ncoming out from under a bureau. Very\\ncautiously here and there the foresters un-\\ncovered a burrow, and a dachshund disap-\\npeared. Then from below ground came the\\nsounds of fighting. The dachshunde had\\nfound their prey. The foresters ran about,\\nstooping to locate the sound. When they\\ndiscovered the spot a dozen of them at once\\nbegan to dig as fast as they could.\\nPresently a wTithing, rolling, barking\\nbunch of fur and flying sand came into view,\\nwhen a forester with a long forked stick\\ncaught the animal just back of its head and\\nflung it into a coarse sack, which was then\\ntied up and thrown aside, and the hunt went\\non. After we all went home the foresters\\ngathered up these bags and killed the poor\\nlittle animals somehow mercifully, I hope.\\nThe dinner, which came at two o clock,\\nwas so much of a function, on account of the\\nnumber of guests in the house, that it im-\\npressed itself upon my memory.\\nFirst in the salon there were small tables\\nset, containing hors d oeuvres. There were\\nlarge decanters containing vodhe, a liquor\\nsomething like Chinese rice-brandy. There\\nw^ere smoked goose, smoked bear, and sal-\\nmon, white and black bread, all sorts of\\n147", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsausages, anchovies and caviar, of course.\\nAfter these had been tasted largely by the\\nguests who were not Americans, and who\\nknew that a formidable dinner yet had to be\\ndiscussed, we were all seated at a table in\\nthe grand dining-room.\\nThere were a hundred of us, a;nd the table\\nheld enough for twice that many. We began\\nwith a hot soup made of fermented beet-\\njuice. This we found to be delicious, but\\nI seemed to be eating transparent red ink\\nwith parsley in it. This was followed by a\\ncold soup made of sour cream and cucum-\\nbers, with ecrevisse, a small and delicious\\nlobster. There was ice in this.\\nCucumbers and sour cream Let me see,\\nwasn t it President Taylor who died of eat-\\ning cherries and milk?\\nThen came a salad of chicken and lettuce,\\nand then huge roasts garnished with exqui-\\nsite French skill.\\nAfter the sweets came the fruit, such\\nfruits as even our own California cannot\\nproduce, with white raspberries of a size\\nand taste quite indescribable. When dinner\\nis over comes a very pretty custom. The\\nhostess, whose seat is nearest the door, rises,\\nand each guest kisses her hand or her arm\\nas he passes out, and thanks her in a phrase\\nfor her hospitality. Sometimes it is only\\nThank you, princess sometimes Many\\n148", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntlianks for your beautiful dinner, or any-\\nthing you like. They speak Polish to each\\nother and to their servants, but they are such\\nwonderful linguists that they always address\\na guest in his own language. To their\\npeasants, however, who speak an unlearnable\\ndialect, they are obliged always to have an\\ninterpreter.\\nAt six o clock came tea from samovars\\nfour feet high and of the most gorgeous\\nrepousse silver. Melons, fruit, and all sorts\\nof bread are served with this. Then at eight\\na supper, very heavy, very sumptuous, very\\nluxurious.\\nThe whole day had been charming, exhil-\\narating, different from anything we had\\never seen before; but there was to follow\\nsomething which impressed itself upon my\\nexcitable nerves with a fascination so be-\\nwildering that I can think of but one thing\\nwhich would give me the same amount of\\nheavenly satisfaction. This would be to\\nhave Theodore Thomas conduct the Chicago\\norchestra in the Tannhauser overture in\\nthe Court of Honor at the World s Fair some\\nnight with a full moon.\\nBut to return. The Princess excused her-\\nself to her Protestant guests after supper,\\nand then her family, with the servants and\\nall the guests who wished, assembled in the\\nwinter garden to sing hymns to the Virgin.\\n140", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nTlie winter garden is like a gigantic conser-\\nvatory four stories high. It connects the two\\nwings of the castle on the ground floor, and\\nall the windows and galleries of the floors\\nahove overlook it.\\nIt is the most beautiful spot even in the\\ndaytime that I ever saw connected with any\\nhouse built for man. But at night to look\\ndown upon its beauty, with its palms, its\\ntall ferns, its growing, climbing, waving\\nvines and flowering shrubs, with its divine\\nodors and fragrances and sweet dampnesses\\nfrom mosses and lovely, moist, green, grow-\\ning things, is to have one s soul filled with a\\npoetry undreamed of on the written page.\\nThe candles dotting the soft gloom, the\\nspray from the fountains blowing in the air\\nand. tinkling into their marble basins, the\\ntones of the grand organ rumbling and soar-\\ning up to us, the moonlight pouring through\\nthe great glass dome and filtering through\\nthe waving green leaves, dimpling on the\\nmarble statues and making trembling shades\\nand shadows upon the earnest faces of the\\nworshippers, the penetrating sadness of their\\nminor hymns all the sights and sounds\\nand fragrances of this winter garden made\\nof that hour one to be forever marked\\nwith a white stone.\\n150", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "VILN^A, RUSSIA\\nWe met our first real discourtesy in Ber-\\nlin at the hands of a German, and although\\nhe was only the manager of an hotel, we lay\\nit up against him and cannot forgive him\\nfor it. It happened in this wise\\nMy companion, being the courier, bought\\nour tickets straight through to St. Peters-\\nburg, with the privilege of stoppir.g a week\\nin Vilna, where we were to be the guests of a\\nPolish nobleman. When she sent the porter\\nto check our trunks she told him in faultless\\nGerman to check them only to Vilna on those\\ntickets. But as her faultless German gener-\\nally brings us soap when she orders coffee,\\nand hot water when she calls for ice, I am\\nnot so severe upon the stupidity of the porter\\nas she is. However, when he came back and\\nasked for fifty-five marks extra luggage to St.\\nPetersburg Ave gave a wail, and explained to\\nthe manager, who spoke English, that we\\nwere not going to St. Petersburg, and that\\nwe were not particularly eager to pay out\\nfifty-five marks for the mere fun of spend-\\n151", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning money. If the choice were left to lis we\\nfelt that we could invest it more to our satis-\\nfaction in belts and card-cases.\\nHe was very big and handsome, this Ger-\\nman, and doubtless some meek frdulein loves\\nhim, but we do not, and, moreover, we pity\\nher, whoever and wherever she may be, for\\nwe know by experience that if they two are\\never to be made one he will be that one. He\\nsaid he was sorry, but that, doubtless, when\\nwe got to the Russian frontier we could ex-\\nplain matters and get our trunks. But we\\ncould not speak Russian, we told him, and\\nwe wanted things properly arranged then\\nand there. He clicked his heels together and\\nbowed in a superb manner, and we were sure\\nour eloquence and our distress had fetched\\nhim, so to speak, when to our amazement he\\nsimply reiterated his statements.\\nBut surely you are not going to let two\\nAmerican women leave your hotel all alone\\nat eleven o clock at night with their luggage\\nchecked to the wrong town I said, in wide-\\neyed astonishment.\\nAgain he clicked those heels of his. Again\\nthat silk hat came off. Again that superb\\nbow. He was very sorry, but he could do\\nnothing. Doubtless we could arrange things\\nat the frontier. It was within ten minutes\\nof train time, and we were surrounded by\\nno fewer than thirty German men guests,\\n152", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nporters, hall-boys who listened curiously,\\nand offered no assistance.\\nI looked at my companion, and she look-\\ned at me, and ground her teeth.\\nThen you absolutely refuse us the cour-\\ntesy of walking across the street with us and\\nmending matters, do you I said.\\nAgain those heels, that hat, that bow. I\\ncould have killed him. I am sorry now that\\nI didn t. I missed a glorious opportunity.\\nSo off we started alone at eleven o clock\\nat night for Poland, with our trunks safe-\\nly checked through to St. Petersburg, and\\nfifty-five marks lighter in pocket.\\nMy companion kept saying, Well, I\\nnever A pause. And again, Well, I\\nnever! And again, Did you ever in all\\nyour life! Yet there was no sameness in\\nmy ears to her remarks, for it was all that I,\\ntoo, wanted to say. It covered the ground\\ncompletely.\\nI was speechless with surprise. It kept\\nrecurring to my mind that my friends in\\nAmerica who had lived in Germany had told\\nme that I need expect nothing at the hands of\\nGerman men on account of being a woman.\\nI couldn t seem to get it through my head.\\nBut now that it had happened to me now\\nthat a man had deliberately refused to cross\\nthe street no farther, mind you to get us\\nout of such a mess Why, in America, there\\n153", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nisn t a man from the President to a chimney-\\nsweep, from a major-general to the blackest\\nnigger in the cotton fields, who wouldn t do\\nten times that much for any woman\\nI shall never get over it.\\nWith the courage of despair I accosted\\nevery man and woman on the platform with\\nthe words, Do you speak English But\\nnot one of them did. Nor French either.\\nSo with heavy hearts we got on the train,\\nfeed the porter four marks for getting us\\ninto this dilemma (and incidentally carry-\\ning our hand-luggage), and when he had the\\nimpertinence to demand more I turned on\\nhim and assured him that if he dared to\\nspeak another word to us we would report\\nhim to His Excellency the American Am-\\nbassador, who was on intimate terms with\\nthe Kaiser; and that I would use my influ-\\nence to have him put in prison for life. He\\nfled in dismay, although I know he did not\\nunderstand one word. My mariner, how-\\never, was not affable. Then I cast myself\\ninto my berth in a despairing heap, and\\nbroke two of the. wings in my hat.\\nMy companion was almost in tears.\\nNever mind, she said. It was all my\\nfault. But we may get our trunks, anyway.\\nAnd if not, perhaps we can get along with-\\nout them.\\nImpossible I said. How can we\\n154", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nspend a week as guests in a house \\\\vithout a\\nchange of clothes\\nIn order not to let her know how worried\\nI was, I told her that if we couldn t get our\\ntrunks off the train at Vilna we would give\\nup our visit and telegraph our excuses and\\nregrets to our expectant hostess, or else come\\n])ack from St. Petersburg after we had got\\nour precious trunks once more within our\\nclutches.\\nAll the next day we tried to find some one\\nwho spoke English or French, but to no\\navail. We spent, therefore, a dreary day.\\nBy letting my companion manage the cus-\\ntoms officers in patomime we got through\\nthe frontier without having to unlock any-\\nthing, although it is considered the most\\ndifficult one in Europe.\\nThe trains in Kussia fairly crawl. In-\\nstead of coal they use wood in their engines,\\nwhich sends back thousands of sparks like\\nthe tail of a comet. It grew dark about two\\no clock in the afternoon, and we found our-\\nselves promenading through the bleakest\\nof winter landscapes. Tiny cottages, emit-\\nting a bright red glow from infinitesimal\\nwindows, crouched in the snow, and silent\\nfir-trees silhouetted themselves against the\\nmoonlit sky. It only needed the howl of\\nwolves to make it the loneliest picture the\\nmind could conceive.\\n155", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nWhen we were within an hour of Vilna I\\nheard in the distance my companion s fa-\\nmiliar words, Pardon me, sir, bnt do you\\nspeak English And a deep voice, which I\\nknew without seeing him came from a big\\nman, replied in French, For the first time\\nin my life I regret that I do not.\\nAt the sound of French I hurried to the\\ndoor of our compartment, and there stood a\\ntall Russian officer in his gray uniform and\\na huge fur-lined pelisse which came to his\\nfeet.\\nWhen my companion wishes to be amusing\\nshe says that as soon as I found that the man\\nspoke French I whirled her around by the\\narm and sent her spinning into the corner\\namong the valises. But I don t remember\\neven touching her. I only remembered that\\nhere was some one to whom I could talk,\\nand in two minutes this handsome Russian\\nhad untangled my incoherent explanations,\\nhad taken our luggage receipt, and had as-\\nsured us that he himself would not pause\\nuntil he had seen our trunks taken from the\\ntrain at Vilna. If I should live a thousand\\nyears I never shall forget nor cease to be\\ngrateful to that superb Russian. He was so\\nvery much like an American gentleman.\\nWe were met at the station by our Polish\\nfriends, our precious trunks were put into\\nsledges, we were stowed into the most com-\\n156", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfortable of equipages, and in an hour we\\nwere installed in one of the most delightful\\nhomes it was ever my good fortune to enter.\\nI never realized before what people can\\nsuffer at the hands of a conquering govern-\\nment, and were it not that the young Tzar\\nof Russia has done away, either by public\\nukase or private advice, with the worst of\\nthe wrongs his father permitted to be put\\nupon the Poles, I could not bear to listen to\\ntheir recitals.\\nPolitics, as a rule, make little impression\\nupon me. Guide-books are a bore, and his-\\ntories are unattractive, they are so dry and\\naccurate. My father s grief at my lack of\\nessential knowledge is perennial and deep-\\nseated. But, somehow, facts are the most\\nelusive things I have to contend with. I can\\nonly seem to get a firm grasp on the imagi-\\nnai j. Of course, I know the historical facts\\nin this case, but it does not sound personally\\npathetic to read that Russia, Prussia, and\\nAustria divided Poland between them.\\nBut to be here in Russia, in what was once\\nPoland, visiting the families of the Polish\\nnobility; to see their beautiful home-life,\\ntheir marvellous family affection, the respect\\nthey pay to their women; to feel all the\\ncharm of their broad culture and noble sym-\\npathy for all that makes for the general\\ngood, and then to hear the story of their op-\\n157", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\npression, is to feel a personal ache in the\\nheart for their national burdens.\\nIt does not somid as if a grievous hardship\\nwere being put upon a conquered people to\\nread in histories or guide-books that Prussia\\nis colonizing her part of Poland with Ger-\\nmans selling them land for almost nothing\\nin order to infuse German blood, German\\nlanguage, German customs into a conquered\\nland. It does not touch one s sympathies\\nvery much to know that Austria is the only\\none of the three to give Poland the most of\\nher rights, and in a measure to restore her\\nself-respect by allowing her representation\\nin the Reichstag and by permitting Poles to\\nhold office.\\nBut when you come to Russian Poland\\nand know that in the province of Lithuania\\nwhich was a separate and distinct province\\nuntil a prince of Lithuania fell in love with\\nand married a queen of Poland, and the two\\ncountries were joined. Poles are not al-\\nlowed to buy one foot of land in the country\\nwhere they were born and bred, are not per-\\nmitted to hold office even when elected, are\\nprohibited from speaking their own language\\nin public, are forbidden to sing their Polish\\nhymns, or to take children in from the streets\\nand teach them in anything but Russian,\\nand that every one is taught the Greek relig-\\nion, then this colonization becomes a burn-\\n158", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning question. Then yon knoAV bow to appre-\\nciate America, where we have full, free, and\\nunqualifi^ liberty.\\nThe young Tzar has greatly endeared him-\\nself to his Polish subjects by several humane\\nand generous acts. One was to remove the\\ntax on all estates (over and above the ordi-\\nnary taxes), which Poles were obliged to\\npay annually to the Russian government.\\nAnother was to release school-children from\\nthe necessity of attending the Greek church\\non all Russian feast-days. These two were\\nby public ukase, and as the Poles are passion-\\nately grateful for any act of kindness, one\\nhears nothing but good words for the Tzar,\\nand there is the utmost feeling of loyalty to\\nhim among them. I hear it constantly said\\nthat if he continue in this generous policy\\nRussia need never apprehend another Polish\\nrevolution. And while by a revolution they\\ncould never hope to accomplish anything,\\nthere being now but fourteen million Poles\\nto contend against these three powerful na-\\ntions, still, as long as they have one about\\nevery thirty-five years, perhaps it is a wise\\nprecaution on the part of the young Tzar to\\nbegin with his kindness promptly, as it is\\nabout time for another one\\nAnother recent thing which the Poles at-\\ntribute to the Tzar was the removal from the\\nstreet corners, the shops, the railroad stations,\\n159", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nand the clubs, of the placards forbidding the\\nPolish language to be spoken in public.\\nThus the Poles hope much from the young\\nTzar in the future, and believe that he would\\ndo more were he not held back by Russian\\npublic opinion. For example, the other day\\ntwo Russians were overheard in the train to\\nSLy For thirty years we have tried to force\\nour religion on the Poles, our language on the\\nPoles, and our customs on the Poles, but now\\nhere comes The Little Colonel^ (the young\\nTzar), and in a moment he sweeps away all\\nthe progress we had made.\\nTo call him The Little Colonel is a\\nterm of great endearment, and the name arose\\nfrom the fact that by some strange oversight\\nhe was never made a General by his father,\\nbut remained at the death of the late Tzar\\nonly a Colonel. When urged by his council-\\nlors to make himself General, as became a\\nTzar of all the Russias, he said: N o. The\\npower which should have made me a General\\nis no more, ^ow that I am at the head of\\nthe government I surely could not be so con-\\nceited as to promote myself.\\nThe misery among the poor in Poland is\\nalmost beyond belief, yet all charities for\\nthem must be conducted secretly, for the gov-\\nernment stills forbids the establishment of\\nkindergartens or free schools where Polish\\nchildren would be taught in the Polish lan-\\n160", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nguage. I have been questioned very closely\\nabout our charities in America, especially in\\nChicago, and I have given them all the work-\\ning plans of the college settlements, the kin-\\ndergartens, and the sewing-schools. The\\nPoles are a wonderfully sympathetic and\\nwarm-hearted people, and are anxious to\\nameliorate the bitter poverty which exists\\nhere to an enormous extent. They sigh in\\nvain for the freedom with which we may pro-\\nceed, and regard Americans as seated in the\\nvery lap of a luxurious government because\\nwe are at liberty to give our money to any\\ncause without being interfered with.\\nOne of the noblest young women I have\\never met is a Polish countess, Avealthy, beau-\\ntiful, and fascinating, who has turned her\\nback upon society and upon the brilliant mar-\\nriage her family had hoped for her, and has\\ntaken a friend who was at the head of a Lon-\\ndon training-school for nurses to live with her\\nupon her estates, and these two have conse-\\ncrated their lives to the service of the poor.\\nThey will educate Polish nurses to use in\\nprivate charity. With no garb, no creed, no\\nblare of trumpet, they have made themselves\\ninto Little Sisters of the Poor.\\nI could not fail to notice the difference in\\nthe young girls as soon as I crossed the Rus-\\nsian frontier and came into the land of the\\nSlav. Here at once I found individuality.\\nL 161", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nPolish girls are more like American girls.\\nIf you ask a young English girl what she\\nthinks of Victor Hugo she tells you that her\\nmamma does not allow her to read French\\nnovels. If you ask a French girl how she\\nlikes to live in Paris she tells you that she\\nnever went down town alone in her life.\\nBut the Polish girls are different. They\\nare individual. They all have a person-\\nality. When you have met one you never\\nfeel as if you had met all. In this respect\\nthey resemble American girls, hut only in\\nthis respect, for whereas there is a type of\\nPolish young girl and a charming type she\\nis I never in my life saw what I considered\\na really typical American girl. You cannot\\ntypify the psychic charm of the young Ameri-\\ncan girl. It is altogether beyond you.\\nThese Polish girls who have titles are as\\nsimple and imaffected as possible. I had no\\ndifficulty in calling their mothers Countess\\nand Princess, etc., but I tripped once or twice\\nwith the young girls, whereat they begged\\nme in the sweetest way to call them by their\\nfirst names without any j)refix. They were\\ncharming. They taught us the Polish ma-\\nzurka a dance which has more go to it than\\nany dance I ever saw. It requires the Au-\\nditorium ball-room to dance it in, and enough\\nbreath to play the trombone in an orchestra.\\nThe officers dance with their spurs on, which\\n162", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\njingle and click in an exciting manner, and to\\nmj surprise never seem to catch in the wom-\\nen s gowns.*\\nThe home life of the Poles is very beau-\\ntiful; and, in particular, the deference paid\\nto the father and mother strikes my Ameri-\\ncan sensibilities forcibly. I never tire of\\nAvatching the entrance into the salon of the\\nmarried sons of the Countess when each\\ncomes to pay his daily visit to his mother.\\nThey are all four tall, impressive, and al-\\nmost majestic, with a curious hawk-like qual-\\nity in their glance, which may be an inheri-\\ntance from their warrior forefathers. Count\\nAntoine comes in just before going home to\\ndine, while we are all assembled and dressed\\nfor dinner. He flings the door open, and\\nmakes his military bow to the room, then\\nmaking straight for his mother s chair, he\\nkneels at her feet, kisses her hand and then\\nher brow, and sometimes again her hand.\\nThen he passes the others, and kisses his sis-\\nter on the cheek, and after thus saluting all\\nthe members of his family, he turns to us,\\nthe guests, and speaks to us.\\nThe Poles are the most individual and in-\\nteresting people I have yet encountered.\\nThe men in particular are fascinating, and a\\nman wdio is truly fascinating in the highest\\nsense of the word; one whose character is\\nworth studv, and whose friendship would re-\\n163", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\npay cultivating as sincerely as many of the\\nPoles I know, is a boon to thank God for.\\nBefore I came to Poland it always sur-\\nprised me to realize that so many men and\\nwomen of world-wide genius came from so\\nsmall a nation. But now that I have had\\nthe opportunity of knowing them intimately\\nand of studying their characteristics, both\\nnationally and individually, I see why.\\nPoland is the home of genius by right.\\nHer people, even if they never write or\\nsing or act or play, have all the elements in\\ntheir character which go to make up that\\ncomplex commodity known as genius,\\nwhether it ever becomes articulate or not.\\nYou feel that they could all do things if\\nthey tried. They are a sympathetic, inter-\\nesting, interested, and, above all, a magnetic\\npeople. This forms the top soil for a na-\\ntion which has put forth so much of wonder\\nand sweetness to enrich the world, but the\\nreason which lies deep down at the root of\\nthe matter for the soul which thrills through\\nall this melody of song and story is in the\\nsorrowful and- tragic history of this nation.\\nThe Poles are a race of burning patriots.\\nTo-day they are as keen over national suffer-\\nings and national wrongs as on. that unfort-\\nunate day when they went into a fiercely\\nunwilling and resentful captivity. Their\\npride, their courage, their bitterness of\\n164", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nspirit, their longing for revenge now no\\nlonger find an outlet on the battlefield. Yet\\nit smoulders continually in their innermost\\nbeing. You must crush the heart, you must\\nsubdue a people, you must be no stranger to\\nanguish and loss if you would discover the\\nsinger and the song. And so Poland s fierce\\nand imrelenting patriotism has placed the\\ndivine spark of a genius which thrills a\\nworld in souls Avhose sweetest song is a cry\\nwrung from a patriot s heart.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "VI\\nST. PETEKSBUEG\\nIt behooves one to be good in Russia, for\\nno matter how excellent your reputation at\\nhome, no matter how long yon have been a\\nmember in good and regular standing of the\\nmost orthodox church, no matter how in-\\nnocent your heart may be of anarchy, nihil-\\nism, or murder, you travel, you rest, you eat,\\nsleep, wake, or dream, tracked by the Rus-\\nsian police.\\nThey snatch your passport the moment\\nyou arrive at a hotel, and register you, and\\nif you change your hotel every day, every\\nday your passport is taken, and you are re-\\nquested to fill out a blank with your name,\\nage, religion, nationality, and the name and\\nhotel of the town where you were last.\\nWhen we entered our Russian hotel\\nwhen we had entirely entered, I mean, for\\nwe passed through six or eight swinging\\ndoors with moujiks to open and shut each\\none, and bow and scrape at our feet ^we\\nfound ourselves in a stiflingly hot corridor,\\n166", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwhere the odor was a combination of smoke\\nand people whose furs needed airing.\\nIt would be an excellent idea if Americans\\nwho live in cold climates dressed as sensibly\\nas Russians do. They keep their houses\\nabout as warm as we keep ours, but they wear\\nthin clothing indoors and put on their enor-\\nmous furs for the street. On entering any\\nhouse, church, shop, or theatre, the clmba\\nand overshoes are removed, and although\\ntliey spend half their lives putting them on\\nand taking them off, yet the other half is\\ncomfortable.\\nThe women seem to have no pride about\\nthe appearance of their feet, for now the\\ndoctors are ordering them to wear the com-\\nmon gray felt boot of the peasants, with the\\ntop of it reaching to the knee. It is without\\ndoubt the most hideous and unshapely ob-\\nject the mind can conceive, being all made of\\none piece and without any regard to the\\nshape of the foot.\\nSt. Petersburg can hardly be called a typ-\\nical Russian city. It is too near other\\ncountries, but to us, before we had seen Mos-\\ncow and Kiev, it was Russia itself. We ar-\\nrived one bitterly cold day, and went first to\\nthe hotel to which we had been recommend-\\ned by our friends.\\nI shall never forget the wave of longing\\nfor home and country which settled down\\n167", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2upon me as we saw our rooms in this hotel.\\nIt must have been built in Peter the Great s\\ntime. No electric lights; not even lamps.\\nCandles! Now, if there is one thing more\\nthan another which makes me frantic with\\nhomesickness, it is the use of candles. I\\nwould rather be in London on Sunday than\\nto dress by the light of candles.\\nEven an excellent luncheon did not raise\\nmy spirits. Our rooms were as dark and\\ngloomy and silent as a mausoleuLm. Indeed,\\nmany a mausoleimi I have seen has been\\nmuch more cheerful. It was at the time of\\nyear also when we had but three hours of\\ndaylight from eleven until two. Our\\nsalon was furnished in a dreary drab, with\\na gigantic green stove in the corner which\\nreached to the ceiling. Then we entered\\nwhat looked like a long, narrow corridor,\\ndown which we blindly felt our way, and at\\nthe extreme end of which were hung dark\\nred plush curtains, as if before a shrine. We\\npulled aside these trappings of gloom, and\\nthere w^ere two iron cots, not over a foot and\\na half wide, about the shape and feeling of\\nan ironing-board, covered with what ap-\\npeared to be gray army blankets. I looked\\nto see U. S. stamped on them. I have\\nseen them in museums at home.\\nI gazed at my companion in perfect dis-\\nmay.\\n168", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI shall not present a single letter of in-\\ntroduction/ I wailed. I m going to Mos-\\ncow to-morrow.\\nInstead of going to Moscow in the morn-\\ning, we went out and decided to present just\\nthe one letter to our ambassador. He was at\\nthe Hotel d Europe, and we went there.\\nBehold! electric lights everywhere. Heaps\\nof Americans. And the entire Legation\\nthere. My companion and I simply looked\\nat each other, and our Avhole future grew\\nbrighter. We would not go to Moscow^,\\nbut we would move at once. We would in-\\ntroduce electricity into our sombre lives,\\nand look forward with hope into the great\\nunknown. We rushed around and presented\\nall the rest of our letters, and went back to\\nspend a wretched evening with eight candles\\nand a smoky lamp.\\nThe next day we called for our bill and\\nprepared to move. To my disgust, I found\\nan item of two rubles for the use of that\\nlamp. I liad serious thoughts of opening up\\ncommunication with the Standard Oil Com-\\npany by cable. But we were so delighted\\nwith our new accommodations in prospect\\nthat we left the hotel in a state of exhilara-\\ntion that nothing could dampen.\\nTo our great disappointment we found a\\nnumber of Americans leaving St. Petersburg\\nfor Moscow because the Hermitage was\\n169", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nclosed. N ow, the Hermitage and the cere-\\nmony of the Blessing of the Waters of the\\nNeva were what I most wished to see, but\\nwe were informed at the Legation that we\\ncould have neither wish gratified. How-\\never, my spirit was undaunted. It was only\\nthe American officials who had pronounced\\nit impossible. My lucky star had gone with\\nme so far, and had opened so many unaccus-\\ntomed doors, that I did not despair. I said\\nI would see what our letters of introduction\\nbrought forth.\\nWe did not have to wait long. No sooner\\nhad we presented our letters than people\\ncame to see us, and placed themselves at our\\ndisposal for days and even weeks at a time.\\nTheir kindness and hospitality were too\\ncharming for mere words to express.\\nAlthough the Winter Palace was closed to\\nvisitors, preparatory to the arrival on the\\nnext day of the Tzar and Tzarina, it was\\nopened for us through the influence of the\\ndaughter of the Commodore of the late\\nTzar s private yacht, Mademoiselle de Talk,\\nwho took us through it. It was simply su-\\nperb, and was, of course, in perfect readi-\\nness for the arrival of the imperial family,\\nwith all the gorgeous crimson velvet carpets\\nspread, and the plants and flowers arranged\\nin the Winter Garden.\\nThen, through this same influential friend,\\nllO", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe Hermitage the second finest and the\\nvery richest miisenm in all Europe was\\nopened for us, and well, I kept my head\\ngoing through the show palaces in London,\\nand Paris, and Berlin, and Dresden, and\\nPotsdam, but I lost it completely in the\\nHermitage. Then and there I absolutely\\nwent crazy. A whole guide-book devoted\\nsimply to the Hermitage could give no sort\\nof idea of the barbaric splendor of its belong-\\nings. Its riches are beyond belief. Even\\nthe presents given by the Emir of Bokhara\\nto tlie Tzar are splendid enough to dazzle one\\nlike a realization of the Arabian ISTights.\\nBut to see the most valuable of all, wdiich\\nare kept in the Emperor^s private vaults, is\\nto be reduced to a state of bewilderment bor-\\ndering on idiocy.\\nIt is astonishing enough, to one who has\\nbought even one Russian belt set with tur-\\nquoise enamel, to think of all the trappings\\nof a horse bit, bridle, saddle-girth, saddle-\\ncloth, and all, made of cloth of gold and set\\nin solid turquoise enamel; with the sword\\nhilt, scabbard, belts, pistol handle and\\nholster made of the same. Well, these are\\nthere by the dozen. Then you come to the\\nprivate jew^els, and you see all these same\\naccoutrements made of precious stones one\\nof solid diamonds; another of diamonds,\\nemeralds, topazes, and rubies. And the size\\n171", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof these stones! Why, yoii never would\\nbelieve me if I should tell you how large they\\nare. Many of them are uncut and badly set,\\nfrom an English stand-point. But in quan-\\ntity and size well, I was glad to get back\\nto my three-ruble-a-day room and to look at\\nmy one trunk, and to realize that my own\\nhumble life would go on just the same, and\\nmy letter of credit would not last any longer\\nfor all the splendors which exist for the\\nTzar of all the Russias.\\nThe churches in St. Petersburg are so\\nmagnificent that they, too, go to your head.\\nWe did nothing but go to mass on Christmas\\nEve and Christmas Day, for although we\\nspent our Christmas in Berlin, we arrived\\nin St. Petersburg in time for the Russian\\nChristmas, which comes twelve days later\\nthan ours. St. Isaac s, the Kazan, and Sts.\\nPeter and Paul dazed me. The icons or\\nimages of the Virgin are set with diamonds\\nand emeralds worth a king s ransom. They\\nare only under glass, which is kept murky\\nfrom the kisses which the people press upon\\nthe hands and feet.\\nThe interiors of the cathedrals, with their\\nhundreds of silver couronnes, and battle-\\nflags, and trophies of conquests, look like\\ngreat bazaars. Every column is covered\\nclear to the dome. The tombs of the Tzars\\nare always surrounded by people, and\\n172", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncandles burn the year round. Upon the tomb\\nof Alexander II., under glass, is the exquisite\\nlaurel wreath placed there by President\\nFaure. It is of gold, and was made by\\nFalize, one of the most famous carvers of\\ngold in Euro]3e.\\nThe famous mass held on Christmas Eve\\nin the cathedral of St. Isaac was one of\\nthe most beautiful services I ever attended.\\nIn the first place, St. Isaac s is the richest\\nchurch in all Russia. It has, too, the most\\nwonderful choir, for the Tzar loves music,\\nand wherever in all his Empire a beautiful\\nvoice is found, the boy is brought to St.\\nPetersburg and educated by the State to\\nenter the Emperor s choir. When we entered\\nthe church the service had been in progress\\nfor five hours. That immense church was\\npacked to suffocation. In the Greek church\\nevery one stands, no matter how long the\\nservice. In fact, you cannot sit down unless\\nvou sit on the floor, for there are no seats.\\nBy degrees we Avorked our way towards the\\nspace reserved for the Diplomatic Corps,\\nwhere we were invited to enter. Our wraps\\nwere taken and chairs were given to us. We\\nfound ourselves on the platform with the\\npriest, just back of the choir. What heaven-\\nly voices What wonderful voices The\\nbass holds on to the last note, and the\\nrumble and echo of it rolls through those\\n173", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nvaulted domes like the tones of an organ.\\nThe long-haired priest, too, had a wonderful\\nresonant voice for intoning. He passed di-\\nrectly by us in his gorgeous cloth of gold\\nvestments, as he went out.\\nThe instant he had finished, the little\\nchoir boys began to pinch each other and\\nthrust their tapers in each other s faces, and\\nbehaved quite like ordinary boys. The great\\ncrowd scattered and huge ladders were\\nbrought in to put out the hundreds of candles\\nin the enormous chandeliers. Religion was\\nover, and the world began again.\\nThe other art which is maintained at the\\ngovernment expense is the ballet. We went\\nseveral times, and it was very gorgeous.\\nIt is all pantomime\u00e2\u0080\u0094 not a word is spoken\\nbut so well done that one does not tire of it.\\nEvery one sympathized so with us be-\\ncause we could not see the ceremony of the\\nBlessing of the Waters of the Neva, and our\\nambassador apologized for not being abie to\\narrange it, and we said, Not at all, and\\nPray, do not mention it, at the same time\\nsecretly hoping that our Russian friends,\\nwho were putting forth strenuous efforts on\\nour behalf, would be able to manage it.\\nOn the morning of the 18th of Janu-\\nary a note came from a Russian officer who\\nwas on duty at the Winter Palace, say-\\ning that Baron Eisner, the Secretarv of the\\n174", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nPrefect of Police, would call f or \\\\is with\\nhis carriage at ten o clock, and we would be\\nconducted jto the private space reserved just\\nin front of the Winter Palace, where the\\nbest view of everything could be obtained.\\nMy companion and I fell into each other s\\narms in wild delight, for it had been most\\ndifficult to manage, and we had not been\\nsure until that very moment.\\nXow, the person of the Tzar is so sacred\\nthat it is forbidden by law even to represent\\nhim on the stagCj and as to photographing\\nhim a Russian faints at the mere thouglit.\\nISTevertheless, we wished very much to photo-\\ngraph this pageant, so we determined, if\\npossible, to take our camera. Everything\\nelse that we wanted had been done for us\\never since we started, and our faith was\\nstrong that we would get this. At first the\\nstout heart of Baron Eisner quailed at our\\nsuggestion. Then he said to take the\\ncamera with us, which we did with joy. His\\ncard parted the crowd right and left, and our\\ncarriage drove through long lines of soldiers,\\nand between throngs of people held in check\\nby mounted police, and by rows of infantry,\\nwho locked anns and made of themselves a\\nliving wall, against which the crowd surged.\\nTo our delight we found our places were\\nnot twenty feet from the entrance to the\\nWinter Palace. We noticed Baron Eisner\\n175", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nspeaking to several officials, and we heard the\\nword Americanski/ which had so often\\nopened hearts and doors to lis, for Russia\\nhonestly likes America, and presently the\\nBaron said, in a low tone, When the Em-\\nperor passes out you may step down here\\nthese soldiers will surround you, and you\\nmay photograph him.\\nI could scarcely believe my ears. I was\\nso excited that I nearly dropped the camera.\\nThe procession moves only abou.t one hun-\\ndred feet a crimson carpet being laid from\\nthe entrance of the Winter Palace, across\\nthe street, and up into a pavilion which is\\nbuilt out over the Neva.\\nFirst came the metropolitans and the\\npriests then the Emperor s celebrated choir\\nof about fifty voices; then a detachment of\\npicked officers bearing the most important\\nbattle-flags from the time of Peter the Great,\\nwhich showed the marks of sharp conflict;\\nthen the Emperor s suite, and then the\\nEmperor himself. They all marched with\\nbared heads, even the soldiers.\\nMy companion had the opera-glasses, I\\nhad the camera. Tell me when, I gasped.\\nThey passed before me in a sort of haze. I\\nheard the band in the Winter Palace and the\\nsinging of the choir. I heard the splash of\\nthe cross which the Archbishop plunged into\\nthe opening that had been cut in the ice. I\\n176", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nheard tlie priests intone, and the booming of\\nthe guns firing the imperial salute. I saw\\nthat the wind was blowing the candles out.\\nThen came a breathless pause, and then she\\nsaid, Kow A little click. It was done\\nI had photographed ^N icholas II., the Tzar\\nof ^11 the Eussias", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "VII\\nRUSSIA\\nYesteeday we had our first Eussian ex-\\nperience in the shape of a troika ride. Rus-\\nsians, as a rule, do not troika except at\\nnight. In fact, from my experience, they\\nreverse the established order of things and\\nturn night into day.\\nA troika is a superb affair. It makes the\\ntiny sledges which take the place of cabs, and\\nare used for all ordinary purposes, look even\\nmore like toys than usual. But the sledges\\nare great fun, and so cheap that it is an ex-\\ntravagance to walk. A course costs only\\ntwenty kopecks ten cents. The sledges are\\nset so low that you can reach out and touch\\nthe snow with your hand, and they are so\\nsmall that the horse is in your lap and the\\ncoachman in your pocket. He simply turns\\nin his seat to hook the fur robe to the back\\nof your seat only it has no back. If you\\nfall, you fall clear to the ground.\\nThe horse is far, far above you in your\\nhumble position, and there is so little room\\n178", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthat two people can with difficulty stow them-\\nselves in the narrow seat. If a brother and\\nsister or a* husband and wife drive together,\\nthe man, in sheer .self-defence, is obliged to\\nput his arm around the w^oman, no matter\\nhow distasteful it may be. Not that she\\nwould ever be conscious of whether he did\\nit or not, for the amount of clothes one is\\nobliged to w^ear in Eussia destroys any sense\\nof touch.\\nThe idvosjik, or coachman, is so bulky\\nfrom this same reason that you cannot see\\nover him. You are obliged to crane your\\nneck to one side. His head is covered with\\na Tartar cap. He wears his hair down to\\nhis collar, and then chopped off in a straight\\nline. His pelisse is of a bluish gray, fits\\ntightly to the waist, and comes to the feet.\\nBut the skirt of it is gathered on back and\\nfront, giving him an irresistibly comical pan-\\nnier effect, like a Dolly Varden polonaise.\\nThe Russian idvosjik guides his horse curi-\\nously. He coaxes it forward by calling it\\nall sorts of pet names doushka, darling,\\netc. Then he beats it with a toy wdiip, which\\nmust feel like a fly on its woolly coat, for all\\nthe little fat pony does is to kick up its heels\\nand fly along like the wind, missing the other\\nsledges by a hair s-breadth. It is ghostly to\\nsee the way they glide along without a sound,\\nfor the sledges wear no bells.\\nno", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "AS. SEEN BY ME\\nOne may drive with perfect safety at a\\nbreakneck pace, for they all drive down on\\none side of the street and up on the other.\\nNot will an idvosjik hesitate to nse his whip\\nabout the head and face of another idvos-\\njik who dares to turn without crossing the\\nstreet.\\nHe stops his horse with a guttural trill, as\\nif one should say Tr-r-r-r-r in the back of\\nthe throat. It sounds like a gargle.\\nThe horses are sharp-shod, but in a way\\nquite different from ours. The spikes on\\ntheir shoes are an inch long, and dig into\\nthe ice with perfect security, but it makes the\\nhorses look as if they wore French heels.\\nEven over ice like sheer glass they go at a\\ngallop and never slip. It is wonderful, and\\nthe exhilaration of it is like driving through\\nan air charged with champagne, like the\\nwine-caves of Rintz.\\nOur troika was like a chariot in compari-\\nson with these sledges. It was gorgeously\\nupholstered in red velvet, and held six three\\non each seat. The robes also were red vel-\\nvet, bordered and lined with black bear fur.\\nThere were three horses driven abreast. The\\nmiddle horse was much larger than the other\\ntwo, and wore a high white wooden collar,\\nwhich stood up from the rest of the harness,\\nand was hung with bells and painted with\\nred flowers and birds.\\n180", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nTo my delight the horses were wild, and\\nstood on their hind legs and bit each other,\\nand backed us off the road, and otherwise act-\\ned like Tartar horses in books. It seemed\\nalmost too good to be true. It was like driv-\\ning through the Black Forest and seeing the\\ngnomes and the fairies one has read about.\\nI told my friends very humbly that I had\\nnever done anything in my life to deserve\\nthe good fortune of having those beautiful\\nhorses act in such a satisfactory and historical\\nmanner. We had to get out twice and let the\\nidvosjik calm them down. But even when\\nploughing my way out of snow up to my\\nknees I breathed an ecstatic sigh of gratitude\\nand joy. I could not understand the men s\\nannoyance. It was too ideal to complain\\nabout.\\nWe drove out to the Island for luncheon,\\nand on the way we stopped and coasted in\\na curious Russian sledge from the top of a\\nhigh place, something like our toboggan-\\nslides, only this sledge was guided from be-\\nhind by a peasant on skates.\\nA Russian meal always begins with a side-\\ntable of hors d oeuvres, called zakouska.\\nThat may not be spelled right, but no Russian\\nw^ould correct me, because the language is\\nphonetic, and they spell the same word in\\nmany different ways. Their alphabet has\\nthirty-eight letters in it, besides the little\\n181", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmarks to tell yon whether to make a letter\\nhard or soft.\\nEven proper names take on cnrions oddi-\\nties of spelling, and a hnsband and wife or\\ntwo brothers will spell their name differently\\nwhen nsing the Latin letters. If yon com-\\nplain ahont it, and ask which is correct, they\\nmake that famous Russian reply which Bis-\\nmarck once had engraved in his ring, and\\nwhich he believed brought him such good\\nluck, ISTeechy voe, It is nothing, or\\nNever mind. You can spell with your\\neyes shut in Russian, and you simply cannot\\nmake a mistake, for the Russians spell with\\nall the abandonment of French dancing.\\nThis zakouska is so delicious and so varied\\nand so tempting that one not accustomed to\\nit eats too much without realizing. At a din-\\nner an American looked at my loaded plate\\nand said, with delicious impertinence, Con-\\nfidentially, I don t mind telling you that din-\\nner is coming/\\nAs we came back, the full delight of troika-\\nriding came over us, for driving in the coun-\\ntry we could not- tell how fast we were going.\\nBut in town, whizzing past other carriages,\\nhearing the shouts of the idvosjik, Troika\\n-and seeing the people scatter and the sledges\\nturn out (for a troika has the right of way),\\nwe realized at what a pace we were going.\\n-We dashed across the frozen Neva, with its\\n182", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntramway built right on the ice past the Win-\\nter Palace, along the qnai, where all the em-\\nbassies ar.e, into the Grand Morskaia, and\\nfrom there into the N^evski, with the snow\\nflying and our bells ringing, and the middle\\nhorse trotting and the outer horses galloping,\\nsending clouds of steam from their heaving\\nflanks and palpitating nostrils, and the biting-\\nair making our blood tingle, and the reiter-\\nated shout of the idvosjik, Troika troika\\ntaking our breath away.\\nWe had one more excitement before we\\nreached home, which was seeing a Russian\\nfire-engine. We passed it in a run. The en-\\ngine was on one sledge, and following it\\nwere five other sledges carrying hogsheads of\\nwater.\\nI am glad we came to Russia in winter,\\nfor by so doing we have met the Russian\\npeople, the most fascinating that any coun-\\ntry can boast, with the charm of the French,\\nthe courage of the English, the sentiment\\nof the Germans, the sincerity and hospitality\\nof the Americans. Their courtesy to each\\nother is a never-ending pleasure to me.\\nPoles and Russian^ treat their women more\\nnearly the way our American men treat us\\nthan any nation we have encountered so far.\\nThey are the most marvellous linguists in\\nthe world. We have met no one in Russia\\nwho speaks fewer than three languages, and\\n183", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwe have met several who speak twelve. They\\nare not arrogant even concerning their mili-\\ntary strength. They are qnite modest about\\ntheir learning and their not inconsiderable\\nliterary and artistic achievements, and they\\nhold themselves, both nationally and indi-\\nvidually, in the plastic state where they are\\nwilling to learn from any nation or any\\nmaster who can teach what they wish to\\nknow. There is a marvellous future for\\nRussia, for their riches and resources are as\\nvast and inestimable as their possessions.\\nThey themselves do not realize how mighty\\nthey are.\\nHere is I rance grovelling at their feet,\\nspending millions of francs to entertain the\\nTzar France, a nation which must see a\\nprospect of double her money returned be-\\nfore she parts with a sou with the cathedrals\\nfilled with couronnes sent by the French\\npress; with no compliment to Russia too\\nfulsome for French gallantry to invent find-\\ning space in the foremost French news-\\npapers hoping, praying, beseeching the help\\nof Russia, when Germany makes up her\\nmind to gobble France, yet dealing Russian\\nachievement a backhanded slap by hinting\\nwhat a compliment it is for a cultivated,\\naccomplished, over-cultured race like the\\nFrench to beg the assistance of a barbarous\\ncountry like Russia.\\n184", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI believe that Russia is the only country\\nin the world which feels nationally friendly\\nand individually interested in America. I\\nused to think France was, and I held La-\\nfayette firmly and proudly in my memory\\nto prove it. But I was promptly undeceived\\nas to their individual interest, and when I\\nstill clung to Lafayette as a proof of the\\nformer I was laughed to scorn and told that\\nFrance as a nation had nothing to do with\\nthat; that Lafayette went to America as a\\nsoldier of fortune. He would just as soon\\nhave gone to Madagascar or Timbuctoo, but\\nAmerica was accommodating enough to have\\na war on just in time to serve his ambition.\\nIf that is true, I wish they had not told me.\\nI would like to come home with a few ideals\\nleft\u00e2\u0080\u0094 if they will permit me.\\nWhen I was in Berlin I asked our am-\\nbassador, Mr. White, what Germany thought\\nof America. He replied, Just what Thack-\\neray thought of Tupper. When some one\\nasked Thackeray what he thought of Tupper,\\nhe replied, I don^t think of him at all.\\nBut in Russia I have a sore throat all the\\ntime from answering questions about Amer-\\nica. I think I am not exaggerating when I\\nsay I have answered a million in a single\\nevening. My companion at first was dis-\\ngusted with my wearing myself out in such\\na manner, but I said, I am so grateful to\\n185", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthem for caring after the indifference of all\\nthese other self-sufficient countries, that I\\nam willing to sacrifice myself at it if neces-\\nsary.\\nWe never realized how little we knew\\nabout America until we discovered the Rus-\\nsian capacity for asking unexpected ques-\\ntions. I bought an American history in\\nRussia, and sat up nights trying to remem-\\nber what my father had tried to instil into\\nmy sieve-like brain. After a week of wit-\\nnessing my feverish enthusiasm, even my\\ncompanion s dormant national pride was\\nroused. She, too, was ashamed to say, I\\ndon t know, when they asked us these ter-\\nrible questions. When we get into the\\nclutches of a party of women we trust to\\nluck that they cannot remember our statis-\\ntics long enough to tell their husbands and\\nbrothers (I have a horror of men s accuracy\\nin figures), and we calmly guess at the an-\\nswers when our exact knowledge gives out.\\nOne night they attacked my companion on\\nthe school question. I^ow, she does not know\\none solitary thing about the public-school\\nsystem, but, to my utter amazement, I heard\\nher giving the number of children between\\nthe ages of eight and ten who were in the\\npublic schools in the State of Illinois, and\\nthen running them off by counties. I Avas\\nafraid she would soon begin to call the roll\\n186", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof their names from memory, so I rescued\\nher and took her home. I suppose we must\\nhave an air of intelligence which success-\\nfully masks our colossal ignorance of occult\\nfacts and defunct dates, because they rely on\\nus to inform them off-hand concerning every-\\nthing social, political, historical, sacred and\\nprofane, spirituous and spiritual, from the\\nprotoplasm of the cliff-dwellers to the de-\\ntails of the Dingley hill, not skipping accu-\\nrate information on the process of whiskey-\\nmaking in Kentucky, a crocodile-hunt in\\nFlorida, suffrage in. Wyoming, a lynching-\\nbee in Texas, polygamy in Utah, prune-dry-\\ning in California, divorces in Dakota, gold-\\nmining in Colorado, cotton-spinning in\\nGeorgia, tobacco-raising in Alabama, marble-\\nquarrying in Tennessee, the number of\\nQuakers in Philadelphia, one s sensations\\nwhile being scalped by Sioux, how marriages\\nare arranged, what a man says when he pro-\\nposes, the details of a camp-meeting, a de-\\nscription of a negro baptism, and the main\\narguments on the silver question.\\nThey get some curious ideas in their heads\\nconcerning us, but they are so amazingly\\nwell informed about America that their\\nspecific misinformation never irritated me.\\nThe small use they have for their English\\nsometimes accounts for the queer things they\\nsay.\\n187", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe official costume for men who have no\\nparticular uniform is regulation evening\\ndress, which they are obliged to wear alL\\nday. They become so tired of it that this is\\nthe reason, they tell me, why so many men,\\neven in smart society, go to the opera or even\\ndinners in frock-coats. One one occasion a\\nmost intelligent man said to me, I am told\\nthat in America the ladies always wear de-\\ncollete costumes at dinners, and the men are\\nalways in night-dress.\\nFor one hysterical moment my mind s eye\\npictured a dinner-table on Prairie Avenue\\nwith alternately a low-necked gown and a\\npair of pajamas, and I choked. Then I\\nhappened to think that he meant evening\\ndress, and I recovered sufficiently to ex-\\nplain.\\nThe Tzarina has made English the Court\\nlanguage, and since her coronation no state\\nballs take place on Sunday.\\nRussian hospitality is delightful. We\\ncould remain a year in Russia and not ex-\\nhaust our invitations to visit at their coun-\\ntry-houses. Russia must be beautiful in\\nsummer, but if you wish to go into society,\\nto know the best of the people, to see their\\nsweet home life, and to understand how they\\nlive and enjoy themselves, you must go in the\\nwinter. I cannot think what any one would\\nfind of national life in summer in Russia,\\n188", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfor everybody has a country-lioiise and every-\\nbody goes to it and leaves the city to tourists.\\nKussia, in spite of her vast riches, has not\\narrived at supercivilization, where there is\\ncorruption in the very atmosphere. She is\\nan undeveloped and a young country, and\\nwhile tlie Tzar is wise and kind and bene-\\nficent, and an excellent Tzar as Tzars go, still\\nRussians, even the best and most enlightened\\nof them, are slaves. I have met a number of\\nthe gentlest and cleverest men who had been\\nexiled to Siberia, and pardoned. Their pict-\\nure-galleries bear witness to this underlying\\nsadness of knowing that in spite of every-\\nthing they are not free. All their actions are\\nwatched, their every word listened to, spies\\nare everywhere, the police are omnipresent,\\nand over all their gayety and vivacity and\\nmirth and spontaneity there is the constant\\nfear of the awful hand in whose complete\\npower they are. His clemency, his father-\\nhood to his people, his tremendous responsi-\\nbility for their welfare are all appreciated,\\nbut the thought is in every mind, When\\nwill this kindness fail Upon whose head\\nwill the lightning descend next?\\nTitle and gentle birth and the long and\\nfaithful service of one s ancestors to the\\nTzars are of small avail if the evidence\\nshould go against one in Russia. I have\\nheard princes say less than I have said here,\\n189", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbut say it in whispers and with furtive looks\\nat the nearest man or woman. I have seen\\ntheir starts of surprise at the frank impu-\\ndence of our daring to criticise our admin-\\nistration in their midst, and I felt as if I\\nwere in danger of being bombarded from the\\nback.\\nIn Russia you may spell as you please, but\\nyou must have a care how you criticise the\\ngovernment. In America you may criticise\\nthe government as you will, but you must\\nhave a care how you spell.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "VIII\\nMOSCOW\\nI THOUGHT St. Petersburg interesting,\\nbut it is modern compared to Moscow.\\nEverything is so strange and curious here.\\nThe churches, the chimes, the palace, the\\ncoronation chapel, and the street scenes are\\nenough to drive one mad with interest.\\nMoscow is said to have sixteen hundred\\nchurches, and I really think we did not skip\\none. They are almost as magnificent as those\\nin St. Petersburg, and they impressed over-\\npowered us, in fact, with the same unspeak-\\nable riches of the Greek Church.\\nThe name of our hotel was so curious that\\nI cannot forbear repeating it, The Slavan-\\nsky Bazaar, and they call their smartest res-\\ntaurant The Hermitage. I felt as if I\\ncould be sold at auction in The Bazaar,\\nand as if I ought to fast and pray in The\\nHermitage.\\nThe Slavansky Bazaar was one of the\\ndirtiest hotels it ever was my lot to see. The\\nRussians of the middle class to say noth-\\n191", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning of the peasants, who are simply unspeak-\\nable are not a clean set, so one cannot blame\\na hotel for not living above the demands of\\nits clientele. There were some antique speci-\\nmens of cobwebs in our rooms, which made\\nrestful corner ornaments with dignified fes-\\ntoons, which swung slowly to and fro with\\nsuch fascinating solemnity that I could\\nnot leave off looking at them. The hotel is\\nbuilt up hill and do^vn dale, and each corridor\\nsmells more musty than the other. It has a\\ncurious arrangement for supplying water in\\nthe rooms which I never can recall with any\\ndegree of pleasure. One evening after I had\\ndressed I went to the wash-stand and discov-\\nered that there was no water. I was madly\\nringing for the chambermaid when my com-\\npanion called from her room, and said, Put\\nyour foot on that brass thing. There is plenty\\nof water.\\nI looked down, and near the floor was a\\nbrass pedal, like that of a piano. Sure\\nenough, there was a reservoir above and a\\nfaucet with the head of a dragon on it peer-\\ning up into my face, which I never had no-\\nticed before. Now, the pedal of my piano\\nworks hard, so I bent all my strength to this\\none, and lo! from that impudent dragon s\\nmouth I got a mighty stream of water\\nstraight in my unconscious face, and enough\\nto put out a fire. I fell back with a shriek\\n192", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof astonishment and indignation, and my\\ncompanion langhed nay, she roared. She\\nLanghs until she cries even now every time\\nshe thinks of it, although I had to change\\nmy gown. How was I going to know that I\\nwas leaning over a Avaterspout, I should like\\nto know\\nIn this same hotel when I asked for a blot-\\nter they brought me a box of sand. I tried\\nto use it, but my hand was not very steady,\\nand none of it went on the letter. Some got\\nin my shoe, however.\\nBut our environments were more than com-\\npensated for by the exceeding kindness that\\nwe received from the most delightful people\\nthat it ever was my good fortune to meet, and\\ntheir attentions to us were so charming that\\nwe shall remember them as long as we live.\\nAmericans, even though we are as hospi-\\ntable as any nation on earth, might well take\\na lesson from the Russians in regard to the\\nrespect they pay to a letter of introduction.\\nThe English send word when you can be re-\\nceived, and you pay each other frosty formal\\ncalls, and then are asked to five-o clock tea or\\nsome other wildly exciting function of simi-\\nlar importance. The French are great\\nsticklers for etiquette, but they are more\\nspontaneous, and you are asked to dine at\\nonce. After that it is your own fault if\\nyou are not asked again. But in Russia it\\nN 193", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nis different. I think that the men must have\\naccompanied my messenger home, and the\\nwomen to whom I presented letters early in\\nthe afternoon were actually waiting for me\\nwhen I returned from presenting the last\\nones. In Moscow they came and waited\\nhours for my return. I was mortified that\\nthere were not four of me to respond to all\\nthe beauties of their friendship, for hospi-\\ntality in Russia includes even that.\\nThey placed themselves, their carriages,\\ntheir servants, at our disposal for whatever\\nwe had to do sight-seeing, shopping, or\\nidling. Mademoiselle Yermoloff, lady-in-\\nwaiting to the two empresses, simply took\\nus upon her hands to show us Russian society\\nlife. She came with her sledge in the morn-\\ning, and kept us with her all day long, tak-\\ning us to see the most interesting people and\\nplaces in Moscow. She showed us the coro-\\nnation-robes, the embroideries upon which\\nwere from her own beautiful designs. The\\nEmpress presented her with an emerald and\\ndiamond brooch in recognition of this im-\\nportant service, for undoubtedly the corona-\\ntion-robe of the present Tzarina is much\\nhandsomer and in better taste than any of\\nthe others. The designs are so artistically\\nsketched that they all have a special sig-\\nnificance.\\nHere we visited the charming Princess\\n194", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nGolitzine, a most beautiful and accomplished\\nwoman. Her house, we were told, De Les-\\nseps, the father of the Suez I)e Lesseps, used\\nas his headquarters during the French occu-\\npation of Moscow.\\nMademoiselle Yermoloff s sledge was a\\nvery beautiful one, but it Avas quite as low-\\nset as all the others, and her footman stood\\nbehind. As there was no back to the seat of\\nher sledge, and her horses were rather fiery\\nand unmanageable, every time they halted\\nwithout warning this solemn flunky pitched\\nforward into our backs, a performance which\\nwould have upset the dignity of an English\\nfootman, but which did not seem to disturb\\nhim in the least.\\nMademoiselle Yermoloff took us to see\\nMadame Chabelskoi, whose contributions to\\nthe World s Fair were of so much value. I\\nnever saw a private collection of anything\\nso rich, so varied, and of such historical\\nvalue as her collection of all the provincial\\ncostumes of the peasants of Finland and Big\\nand Little Russia. In addition to these she\\nhas the fete-day toilets as well. The Kokosh-\\nniks are all embroidered in seed-pearls and\\ngold ornaments, and if she were not a fabu-\\nlously rich woman she could never have got\\nall these, for each one is authentic and has\\nactually been worn. They are not copies.\\nBut Moscow seems to take a peculiar\\n195", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nnational pride in preserving the historical\\nmonuments of her country. There is a mu-\\nseum there, with a complete set of all these\\ncostumes on wax figures, and they range all\\nthe way from the grotesque to the lovely.\\nMadame Chabelskoi is now doing a very\\npretty as well as a valuable and historical\\nwork. She has two accomplished daughters,\\nand these young girls spend all their time in\\nselecting peasant women with typical feat-\\nures, dressing them in these costumes, pho-\\ntographing them, and then coloring these\\nphotographs in water-colors. They are mak-\\ning te!i copies of each, to make ten magnif-\\nicent albums, which are to be presented to the\\nten greatest museums in the world. The\\nHermitage in St, Petersburg is to have one,\\nthe British Museum another, and so on.\\nOnly one was to go to America, and to my\\nmetropolitan dismay I found that it was not\\nto go to Chicago. I shall not say where it\\nwas intended to go; I shall only say that\\nwith characteristic modesty I asked, in my\\nmost timid voice, why she did not present it\\nto a museum in the city which she had al-\\nready benefited so royally Avith her generos-\\nity, and which already held her name in af-\\nfectionate veneration. It seemed to strike\\nher for the first time that Chicago was the\\nproper city in which to place that album,\\nso she promised it to us! I thanked her\\n196", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwith sincere gratitude, and retired from the\\nfield with a modest flush of victory on my\\nbrow. I cannot forbear a wicked chuckle,\\nhowever, when I think of that other museum\\nWe dined many times at The Hermit-\\nage, which is one of the smartest restau-\\nrants in Europe. The costumes of the wait-\\ners were too extraordinary not to deserve a\\npassing mention. They consisted of a white\\ncotton garment belted at the w^aist, with no\\ncollar, and a pair of flapping white trousers.\\nThey are always scrupulously clean which\\nis a wonder for Russian peasants for they\\nare made to change their clothes twice a day.\\nThey have a magnificent orchestrion instead\\nof an orchestra here, and I could scarcely eat\\nthose beautiful dinners for listening to the\\nmusic. We became so Avell acquainted with\\nthe repertoire that our friends, knowing our\\ntaste, ordered the music to match the courses.\\nSo instead of sherry with the soup, they or-\\ndered the intermezzo from Cavalleria\\nRusticana. With the fish we had the over-\\nture to William Tell. With the entrecote\\nwe had a pot-pourri from Faust. With\\nthe fowl we had Demon and Tamar,\\nthe Russian opera. With the rest we began\\non Wagner and worked up to that thrilling\\nTannhauser overture, until I was ready\\nto go home a nervous wreck from German\\nmusic, as I alwavs am.\\n197", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nA very interesting incident occurred while\\nwe were in Moscow. The Tzar decorated a\\nnon-commissioned officer for an act of bra-\\nvery which well deserved it. Tie was in\\ncharge of the powder-magazines just outside\\nof Moscow, and from the view I had of them\\nI should say that the gunpowder is stored in\\npits in the ground.\\nSomething caught fire right on top of one\\nof these pits, and this young officer saw it.\\nTie had no time to send for water, and if he\\ndelayed, at any moment the whole magazine\\nmight explode; one pit would communicate\\nwith another, and perhaps the whole city\\nwould be endangered; so without a second s\\nhesitation he and his men sprang into the fire\\nand literally trod it out with their feet, run-\\nning the risk of an explosion by concussion,\\nas well as by a spark of fire. It was a superb\\nact of courage, and the Tzar decorated this\\nyoung sergeant with the order of Vladimir\\none of the rarest decorations in all Russia.\\nI am told that not over six living men pos-\\nsess it to day. It was a beautiful thing\\nfor the Tzar thus to recognize this heroic\\ndeed.\\nWhen we left Moscow we were having our\\nfirst real taste of Russian winter, for, strange\\nto say, although so mu.ch farther south, the\\nclimate is much more severe than that of\\nSt. Petersburg.\\n198", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nMy companion complained bitterly that\\nwe were not seeing anything of Russia be-\\ncause we came down from St. Petersburg at\\nnight, so we abandoned the courier train,\\nand took the slow day-train for Kiev, the\\nold capital of Russia, that she might see\\nmore of the country.\\nBut now I come to my reward and her\\nchagrin. Between Moscow and Kiev we\\nwere snowed in for sixteen hours. It was\\nbetween stations, the food gave out I mean\\nit gave out because we did not have any to\\nstart with the train became bitterly cold,\\nand we came near freezing and starving to\\ndeath. That made our Russian experiences\\nquite complete. We had foolishly started\\nwithout even fruit, and there was nothing to\\nbe had on board the train except the tea\\nwhich the conductors make in a samovar\\nand serve to you at the slightest provocation.\\nBut even the tea was exhausted at last, and\\nthen the fire gave out, because all the wood\\nhad been used up.\\nThere w^e were, penned up, wrapped in\\nour seal-skins and steamer-rugs and with\\nnubias over our heads, so cold that our teeth\\nchattered, and so hungry we could have eaten\\nanything. The conductor came and spoke\\nto us several times, but whether he was in-\\nviting us to lunch or quoting Scripture we\\ncould never tell. There was no one on the\\n199", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BYME\\ntrain who spoke English or French, and no-\\nbody else in onr car to speak anything at\\nall owing to our having come on this par-\\nticular train, in order for my companion to\\nsee Russia. I am delighted to record\\nthe fact that not only the outside but the\\ninside windows w^ere frosted so thickly that\\nthey had to light the sickly tallow candle\\nin a tin box over the door of the compart-\\nment, so she never got a peep at Eussia or\\nanything else the whole way.\\nWe consoled each other and kept up our\\nspirits as best we could all day, but we ar-\\nrived at Kiev so exhausted with cold and\\nhunger that although we were received at\\nthe train by one of the most charming men\\nI ever met, we both cried with relief at the\\nsight of a friendly face and some one to\\nwhom we could speak and tell our woes. I\\nhave since wondered what he thought to be\\nmet by two forlorn women in tears What-\\never he thought, like all the Russians, he was\\ncourtesy itself, and we were soon whisked\\naway to the inexpressible comfort of being\\nthawed and fed.\\nSuch a beautiful city as this is! White-\\nlaw Reid has declared Kiev to be one of the\\nfour picturesque cities in Europe; certainly\\nit lies in a heavenly place, all up and down\\nhills, with such vistas down the streets to\\nwhere a mosque raises its gilded dome, or\\n200", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwhere an historic bronze statue stands out\\nagainst the horizon. If Kiev had been\\nplanned by the French, it conkl not be more\\nutterly beantifnl. The domes of the cathe-\\ndrals are blue, studded with gold stars; or\\nelse pale green or all gold, and the most ex-\\nquisite churches in all Eussia are in Kiev.\\nA terrible monastery, where you take candles\\nand go down into the bowels of the earth to\\nsee where monks martyred themselves, is\\nhere and poor simple-minded pilgrims walk\\nmany hundred miles to kiss these tombs.\\nTheir devotion is pathetic. We had to walk\\nin a jDrocession of them, and I know that\\neach of them had his own particular disease\\nand his own special brand of dirt. The\\nbeggars surrounding the gate of this monas-\\ntery are too awful to mention, yet it is re-\\nputed to be the richest monastery in all Rus-\\nsia.\\nIn Kiev we heard Hamlet in Russian,\\nand the man who played Hamlet was won-\\nderfully good, surprisingly good. You don t\\nknow how strange it sounded to hear To\\nbe or not to be in Russian The acting\\nwas so familiar, the words so strange. The\\naudience went crazy over him, as Russian\\naudiences always do. We watched him come\\nout and bow thirty-nine times, and when we\\ncame away the noise was still deafening.\\nThey make a sort of candy in Kiev\\n201", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwhich goes far and away above any sweets I\\never have seen. It is a sort of candied rose.\\nThe whole rose is there. It is a solid soft\\npink mass, and it tastes just as a tea-rose\\nsmells. It is simply celestial.\\nWe dearly love Kiev, it is so hauntingly\\nbeautiful. You can t forget it. Your mind\\nkeeps returning to it, but it is the sort of\\nbeauty that you can t describe satisfactorily.\\nIt is like your mother s face. You can see\\nthe beauty for yourself, but no one else can\\nsee it as you do, for the love which is behind\\nit.\\nIn Odessa we began to leave Russia be-\\nhind us. Odessa is all sorts of a place. It\\nis commercial, and not beautiful, but, as\\nusual, our Russian friends made us forget\\nthe town and its sights, and remember only\\ntheir sweet hospitality and friendliness.\\nWe wished to catch the Russian steamer\\nfor Constantinople, but we were told that\\nthe police would not permit us to leave on\\nsuch short notice. We felt that this was\\nhard, for we had tried so consistently to be\\ngood in Russia that I was determined to go\\nif possible. So I took an interpreter and\\ndrove to the police headquarters myself.\\nTo my amazement and delight my man told\\nme that it could all be arranged by the\\npayment of a few rubles. But that few\\nrubles mounted up into many before I\\n202", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ngot my passports duly vised. I discovered\\nthat our American police are not so twrij\\ndifferent from Russian police after all, even\\nif they are Irish\\nWe caught the steamer the dear, clean,\\nlovely Nicholai II., with the stewardess a\\nGreek named Aspasia, and I persisted in\\ncalling the steward Pericles, just to have\\nthings match.\\nThen we crunched our way out of the har-\\nbor through the ice into the Black Sea, and\\nsailed away for Constantinople.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "IX\\nCOI^STANTINOPLE\\nCoi^sTANTiisroPLE had three different ef-\\nfects upon me. The first was to make me\\nutterly despise it for its sickening dirt; the\\nsecond was when I forgot all about the mud\\nand garbage, and went crazy over its pictu-\\nresque streets with their steep slopes, odd\\nturns, and bewitching vistas, and the last\\nwas to make me dread Cairo for fear it\\nwould seem tame in comparison, for Con-\\nstantinople is enchanting. If I were a\\npainter I would never leave off painting\\nits delights and spreading its fascinations\\nbroadcast; and then I would take all the\\nmoney I got for my pictures and spend it in\\nthe bazaars, and if I regretted my purchases\\nI would barter them for others, because Con-\\nstantinople is the beginning of the Orient,\\nand if you remain long you become thorough-\\nly metamorphosed, and you bargain, trade,\\nexchange, and haggle until you forget that\\nyou ever were a Christian. The hour of our\\narrival in Constantinople was an accident.\\n204", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe steamer Nicholai II. was late, and as no\\none may land there after snnset, we were\\nforced to lie in the Bosphorns all night.\\nIt was dark when we sighted the city, but\\nit was one of those clear darks Avhere with-\\nout any apparent light you can see every-\\nthing. Surely no other city in the world\\nhas so beautiful an approach Our great\\nblack steamer threaded her way between men-\\nof-war, sail-boats, and all sorts of shipping,\\nand if there were a thousand lights twink-\\nling in the water there were a million from\\nthe city. It lies on a series of hills curved\\nout like a monster amphitheatre, and it\\nstretches all the way around. I looked up\\ninto the heavens, and it seemed to me that I\\nnever had seen so many stars in my life. Our\\nsky at home has not so many I Yet there\\nwere no more than the yellow points of\\nflame which flickered in every part of that\\nsleeping city. Three tall minarets pierced\\nabove the horizon, and each of these wore\\ncircles of light which looked like necklaces\\nand girdles of fire. Patches of black now\\nand then showed where there were trees or\\nmarked a graveyard. Occasionally we heard\\na shrill cry or the barking of dogs, but these\\nsounds came faintly, and seemed a part of\\nthe fairy-picture. It looked so much like a\\nscene from an opera that I half expected to\\nsee the curtain go clown and the lights flare\\n205", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nlip, and I feared the applause which always\\nspoils the dream.\\nBut nothing spoiled this dream. All night\\nwe lay in the beautiful Bosphorus, and all\\nnight at intervals I looked out of my port-\\nhole at that lovely sleeping princess. It\\nnever grew any less lovely. Its beauty and\\ncharm increased.\\nBut in the morning everything was\\nchanged. A band of howling, screaming,\\nroaring, fighting pirates came alongside in\\ndirty row-boats, and to our utter consterna-\\ntion we found these bloodthirsty brigands\\nwere to row us to land, l^ot one word could\\nwe understand in all that fearful uproar. We\\nwere watching them in a terror too abject\\nto describe, when, to our joy, an English\\nvoice said, I am the guide for the two\\nAmerican ladies, and here is the kavass\\nwhich the American minister sent down to\\nmeet you. The consul at Odessa cabled your\\narrival.\\nOh, how glad we were We loaded them\\nwith thanks and hand-luggage, and scram-\\nbled down the stairway at the side of the\\nsteamer. A dozen dirty hands were stretch-\\ned out to receive us. We clutched at their\\nsleeves instead, and j)itched into the boat,\\nand our trunks came tumbling after us, and\\naway we- went over the roughest of seas,\\nwhich splashed us and made us feel a little\\n206", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nqueer; and then we landed at the dirtiest,\\nsmelliest quay, and picked our way through\\na filthy custom-house, where, in spite of\\nbribery and corruption, they opened my\\ntrunk and examined all the photographs of\\nthe family, which happened to be on top, and\\nmade remarks about them in Turkish which\\nmade the other men laugh. The mud came\\nup over our overshoes as we stood there, so\\nthat altogether we were quite heated in tem-\\nper when we found ourselves in an alley out-\\nside, filled with garbage which had been there\\nforever, and learned that this alley was a\\nstreet, and a very good one for Constanti-\\nnople, too.\\nThe porters in Turkey are marvels of\\nstrength. They wear a sort of cushioned\\nsaddle on their backs, and to my amazement\\ntw^o men tossed my enormous trunk on\\nthis saddle. I saw it leave their hands be-\\nfore it reached his poor bent back; he stag-\\ngered a little, gave it a hitch to make it more\\nsecure, then started up the hill on a trot.\\nI never saw so much mud, such unspeak-\\nably filthy streets, and so many dogs as Con-\\nstantinople can boast. You drive at a gal-\\nlop up streets slanting at an angle of forty-\\nfive degrees, and you nearly fall out of the\\nback of the carriage. Then presently you\\ncome to the top of that hill and start down\\nthe other side, still at a gallop, and you brace\\n207", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nyour feet to keep from pitching over the driv-\\ner s head. You would notice the dogs first\\nwere it not for the smells. But as it is, you\\ncannot even see until you get your salts to\\nyour nose. The odors are so thick that they\\ndarken the air. You are disappointed in the\\ndogs, however. There are quite as many of\\nthem as you expected. You have not been\\nmisled as to the number of them, but nowhere\\nhave I seen them described in a satisfactory\\nway so that you knew what to expect, I\\nmean. In the first place, they hardly look\\nlike dogs. They have w^oolly tails like sheep.\\nTheir eyes are dull, sleepy, and utterly de-\\nvoid of expression. Constantinople dogs have\\nneither masters nor brains. No brains be-\\ncause no masters. Perhaps no masters be-\\ncause no brains. N^obody wants to adopt an\\nidiot. They are, of course, mongrels of the\\nmost hopeless type. They are yellowish,\\nwith thick, short, woolly coats, and much fat-\\nter than you expect to find them. They walk\\nlike a funeral procession. N^ever have I\\nseen one frisk or even wag his tail. Every-\\nbody turns out for them. They sleep from\\ntwelve to twenty of them on a single pile\\nof garbage, and never notice either men or\\neach other unless a dog which lives in the\\nnext street trespasses. Then they eat him\\nup, for they are jackals as well as dogs, and\\nthey are no more epicures than ostriches.\\n208", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThey never show interest in anything.\\nThey are hlasL I saw some mother dogs\\nasleep, with tiny puppies swarming over\\nthem like little fat rats, but the mothers paid\\nno attention to them. Children seem to\\nbore them quite as successfully as if they\\nwere women of fashion.\\nWe went sailing up the Golden Horn to\\nthe Skutari cemetery, one of the loveliest\\nspots of this thrice-fascinating Constanti-\\nnople. As we were descending that steep\\nhill upon which it is situated we met a dar-\\nling little baby Turk in a fez riding on a\\npony which his father was leading. This\\nchild of a different race, and six thousand\\nmiles away, looked so much like our Billy\\nthat I wanted to eat him up dirt and all.\\nI contented myself Avith giving him back-\\nsheesh, while my companion photographed\\nhim. Such an afternoon as that was on that\\nlovely golden river, with the sun just set-\\nting, and our picturesque boatmen sending\\nthe boat through thousands upon thousands\\nof sea-gulls just to make them fly, until the\\nair grew dark with their wings, and the sun-\\nlight on their white breasts looked like a\\ngreat glistening snow-storm!\\nOne night we went to a masked ball given\\nfor the benefit of a new hospital which is\\nsituated upon the Golden Plorn. It was\\ngiven by Mr. Levy, one of the Turkish Com-\\no 209", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmissioners at the World s Fair, and the dec-\\norations were something marvellous. The\\nwalls were hung with embroideries which\\ndrove us the next day to the bazaars and\\nnearly bankrupted us. Every street of Con-\\nstantinople looks like a masked ball, so this\\none merely continued the illusion. We could\\ndistinguish the Mohammedan women from\\nthe others because they all went home before\\nmidnight without unmasking.\\nThis ball is interesting because it is called\\nThe Engagement Ball. We were told\\nthat only at a subscription ball given for a\\ncharity in which their parents are interested\\nand feel under moral obligation to support\\nby their presence are the young people of\\nConstantinople allowed to meet each other.\\nThe fathers and mothers occupy the boxes,\\nand thus, under their very eyes, and masked,\\ncan love affairs be brought to a conclusion.\\nDuring the week which followed no fewer\\nthan ten important engagements were duly\\nheralded in the columns of the newspapers.\\nThe most exciting things in Constan-\\ntinople are the earthquakes. We were afraid\\nthey would not have any while we were\\nthere, but they accommodated us with a very\\nsatisfactory one It upset my ink-bottle and\\nbroke the lamp and rattled everything in\\nthe room until I was delighted. When my\\ncompanion came in she was indignant to\\n210", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthink that I had enjoyed the earthquake all\\nto myself, for she was in the rooms of the\\nAmerican Bible Society, and being thus pro-\\ntected, did not feel it. But I told her that\\nthat was her punishment for trying to prove\\nthat a missionary had cheated her, for she\\nwas not in that place for a godly purpose.\\nAt another time, however, we met with\\nbetter success in obtaining a sensation of a\\ndifferent sort. We visited, in company with\\nour Turkish friend, a small but wonderfully\\nbeautiful mosque not often seen by ordinary\\ntourists, and afterwards went up on Galata\\ntower to get the fine view of Constantinople\\nwhich may be had there. It was just be-\\nfore sunset again, and I am quite unable\\nto make you see the utter loveliness of it.\\nWe crawled out on the narrow ledge which\\nsurrounds the top, and I had just got a capi-\\ntal picture of my companion as she clutched\\nthe Turk to prevent being blown off, for the\\nwind was something terrible, when sudden-\\nly the keepers rushed to the windows and\\njabbered excitedly in Turkish and ran up\\na flag, and behold, there was a fire Galata\\ntow^er is the fire observatory. By the flags\\nthey hoist you can tell where the fire is. I\\nnever was at a fire in my life. Even when\\nour stables burned down I was away from\\nhome. So here w^as my opportunity. The\\nway we drove down those narrow streets was\\n211", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nenoiTgh to make one think that we were the\\nfire department itself. Bnt when we arrived\\nwe found to onr grief that it was our dear\\nlittle mosque w^hich was burning. Undoubt-\\nedly we were the last visitors to enter it.\\nWe went back to the hotel for dinner, and\\nabout nine o clock, hearing that the fire was\\nspreading, we drove down again with our\\nTurk, who regarded it as no unusual thing\\nto take American women to two fires in\\nthe same day. We found the tenement-houses\\nburning. Our carriage gave us no vantage-\\nground, so our friend, who speaks twelve\\nlanguages, obtained permission to enter a\\nhouse and go up on the roof. We never\\nstopped to think that we might catch all\\nsorts of diseases; we were so pleased at the\\ncourtesy of the poor souls. They had all\\ntheir poor belongings packed ready to re-\\nmove if the fire crept any nearer, but ^hey\\nran ahead and lighted us up the dark stair-\\nway with candles, and told us in Turkish\\nwhat an honor we were doing their house,\\nall of which touched me deeply. I wondered\\nhow many people I would have assisted up\\nto our roof if my clothes were tied up in\\nsheets in the hall, with the fire not a square\\naway\\nFortunately, it came no nearer, and from\\nthat high, flat roof we watched the seething\\nmass of yellow flames grow less and less and\\n212", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthen go completely under control. It wns\\nProvidence which did it, however, and not\\nthe Constantinople fire department, with its\\nlittle streams of water tlie size of slate-\\npencils\\nThe dogs were one of the sights we were\\nanxious to see; the Sultan was the other.\\nWe found the bazaars more fascinating than\\neither. But we wanted to photograph the\\nSultan chiefly, I think, because it was for-\\nbidden. I have an ever-present unruly de-\\nsire to do everything which these foreign\\ncountries absolutely forbid. But everybody\\nsaid we could not. So we very meekly went\\nto see him go to prayers, and left our cameras\\nwith the kavass. We had, with our custom-\\nary good fortune, a window directly in front\\nof the Sultan s gate, not twenty feet from\\nthe door of the mosque.\\nIf I had that camera here I could get\\nhim, and nobody would know! I declared.\\nBut there are so many spies, our Turk-\\nish friend said. It would be too danger-\\nous.\\nWe waited, and waited, and waited.\\n^Never have the hours seemed so mortally\\nlong as they seemed to us as we watched the\\nhands of the clock crawl past luncheon-time,\\nhours and hours later than the Sultan was\\nannounced to pray, and still no Sultan. His\\nlittle six- and seven-year old sons, in the uni-\\n213", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nform of colonels, were mounted on superb\\nArabian horses. These horses had tails so\\nlong that servants held them up going\\nthrough the mud, as if they were ladies\\ntrains. The children were dear things, with\\nclear olive complexions and soft, dark eyes\\nItalian eyes. Then they grew tired of\\nwaiting, and dismounted, and came up to\\nwhere we were, and shook hands in the sweet-\\nest manner. My companion was for coaxing\\nthe little one into her lap, but she looked\\nsomewhat staggered when I reminded her\\nthat she would be trotting the colonel of the\\nregiment on her knee.\\nThen more cavalry came, and more bands,\\nplaying a little the worst of any that I ever\\nheard, and we impatiently thrust our heads\\nout of the window, thinking, of course, the\\nSultan was coming, but he was not. Then\\nsome infantry with white leggings and stiff\\nknee-joints, with coils of green gas-pipe on\\ntheir heads, like our student-lamps, marched\\nby with a gait like a battalion of horses with\\nthe string-halt, and we shrieked with laugh-\\nter. Our friend said they called that the\\nGerman step. Germany would declare war\\nwith Turkey if she ever heard that.\\nBy this time we were so tired and hungry\\nand disgusted that we were about to go home\\nand give up the Sultan when we saw no fewer\\nthan fifty men come toiling up the hill with\\n214", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ncarpet-bags, as if they had brought their\\nclothes, and intended to see the Sultan if it\\ntook a week. I do not know who or what\\nthey were, and I do not want to know. They\\nserved their purpose with us in that they\\nput us into instantaneous good humor, and\\njust then there was a commotion, and every-\\nbody straightened up and craned their necks\\nand then, preceded by his body-guard, the\\nSultan drove slowly down, looked directly\\nup at our window (and we groaned), and\\nthen turned in at the gate. Opposite to him\\nsat Osman Pasha, the hero of Plevna. The\\nladies of the harem were driven into the\\ncourt-yard surrounded by eunuchs, the horses\\nwere taken from their carriages, and there\\nthe ladies sat, guarded like prisoners, until\\nthe Sultan came out again. He then mount-\\ned into a superb gold chariot drawn by two\\nbeautiful white horses, and he himself drove\\nout. Everj^body salaamed, and he raised his\\nhand in return as if it was all the greatest\\npossible bore.\\nWhile he was driving into the court-yard\\nthe priest came out on the minaret and called\\nmen to prayer, and an English girl who sat\\nat the next window informed her mother\\nthat he was announcing the names of the im-\\nportant persons in the procession Her\\nmother trained her glasses on him: a mere\\nspeck against the sky and said, Fancy\\n215", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe Sultan is not a beauty. If he were in\\nAmerica his sign would be that of the three\\ngolden balls.\\nWe went to see the mosques, and the offi-\\ncials and priests and boatmen were so cross\\nand surly on account of the fast of Ramazan\\nthat they would not let us take photographs\\nwithout a fight. During Ramazan they nei-\\nther eat nor drink between sunrise and sun-\\nset.\\nOn the fifteenth day of Ramazan the Sul-\\ntan goes to the mosque of Eyoob to buckle on\\nthe sword of Mohammed in order to remind\\nhimself that the power of that sword has de-\\nscended to himself. He does not announce\\nhis route, therefore the whole city is in a\\ncommotion, and they spread miles of streets\\nwith sand for fear he might take it into his\\nhead to go by some unusual way. It passes\\nmy compreliension why they should ever put\\nany more dirt in the streets even for a Sultan.\\nBut sand is a mark of respect in Russia and\\nTurkey, and it really cleans the streets a lit-\\ntle. At least it absorbs the mud. Just as\\nwe were about to start for a balcony beneath\\nwhich he was almost sure to pass, our Turk-\\nish friend whispered to us that if we wore\\ncapes we might take our cameras. Imagine\\nour delight, for it was so dangerous. But\\nthe capes Ours were not half long enough\\nto conceal the camera properly. It was grow-\\n21G", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning late. So in a perfect frenzy I dragged\\nout my long pale blue sortie du hal, ripped\\nthe white velvet capes from it^ pinned a short\\nsable cape to the top of it with safety-pins,\\nand enveloped myself in this gorgeousness at\\neleven o clock in the morning. We made a\\ncurious trio. Our Turk was in English\\ntweeds witli a fez. My companion wore a\\nsmart tailor gown, and I was got up as if for\\na fancy-dress ball, but in the streets of Con-\\nstantinople no one gave me a second glance.\\nI was in mourning compared to some of the\\nothers.\\nOn the balcony with us were two small\\nboys with projecting ears, of whom I stood in\\ndeadly terror, for if their boyish interest cen-\\ntred in that camera of mine I was lost.\\nPresently, liowever, with a tremendous clat-\\nter, the Sultan s advance-guard came gallop-\\ning down the street. I got them, turned the\\nfilm, and was ready for the next the car-\\nriages of the state officials. I aimed well,\\nand got them, but I was growing nervous.\\nThe boys writhed closer. I shoved them a\\nlittle when their mother was not looking.\\nDon t try to take so many, said our\\nTurk. Here comes the Sultan. Aim low,\\nand don t fire until you see the whites of his\\neyes.\\nAgain he looked up directly at us, and I\\nsnapped the shutter promptly. It was done.\\n217", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI had succeeded in photographing the Sul-\\ntan! To be sure, it was an oifense against\\nthe state, punishable by fine and imprison-\\nment, but nobody had caught me. The little\\nboy next to me, who had walked on my dress\\nand ground his elbows into me, craned his\\nneck and stared at the Sultan with round\\neyes. He had beeli in my way ever since we\\narrived, but in an exuberance of tenderness I\\npatted his head.\\nBut when we had those negatives developed\\nI discovered to my disgust that instead of the\\nSultan I had taken an excellent photograph\\nof that wretched little boy s ear.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "CAIRO\\nI i^EED not have been afraid that the\\ncharms of Constantinople wonld spoil Cairo\\nfor me, although at first I was disappoint-\\ned. Most places have to be lived up to, espe-\\ncially one like Cairo, whose attractions are\\nvaunted by every tourist, every woman of\\nfashion, every scholar, every idle club-man,\\neverybody, either with brains or without. I\\nwondered how it could be all things to all\\nmen. I simply thought it was the fashion to\\nrave about it, and I was sick of the very\\nsound of its name before I came. It was\\ntoo perfect. It aroused the spirit of antago-\\nnism in me.\\nFirst of all, when you arrive in Cairo you\\nfind that it is very, very fashionable. You\\ncan get everything here, and yet it is prac-\\ntically the end of the world. jN early every-\\nbody who comes here turns around and goes\\nback. Few go on. Even when you go up\\nthe Mle you must come back to Cairo.\\nThere is really nowhere else to go.\\n219", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nYon drive tliroiigli smart English streets,\\nand when yon find yonrself at Shepheard s\\nyon are at the most famons hotel in the\\nworld yet, strange to say, in spite of its size,\\nin spite of the thonsands of learned, famons,\\ntitled, and distinguished people who have\\nbeen here, in sj)ite of its smartness and fash-\\nion, it is the most homelike hotel I ever was\\nin. Everybody seems to know about yon and\\nto take an interest in what yon are doing, and\\nall the servants know yonr name and the\\nnumber of your room, and when you go out\\ninto the great corridor, or when you sit on\\nthe terrace, there is not a trace of the super-\\ncilious scrutiny which takes a mental inven-\\ntory of your clothes and your looks and your\\nletter of credit, which so often spoils the sun-\\nset for you at similar hotels.\\nGhezireh Palace is even more fashionable\\nthan Shepheard s. Here we have baronets\\nand counts and a few earls. But there they\\nhave dukes and kings and emperors, yet there\\nis a gold-and-alabaster mantelpiece which\\ntakes your mind even from royalty, it is so\\nbeautiful. Ghezireh is situated on the Nile,\\nhalf an hour s drive away, so that in spite of\\nits royal atmosphere it never will take the\\nplace of Shepheard s. Here you see all the\\ninteresting people you have heard of in\\n3^our life. You trip over the easels of famous\\nartists in an angle of the narrow street, and\\n220", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmany famous authors, scientists, archseolo-\\ngists, and scholars are here working or rest-\\ning.\\nYesterday I was told that four Americans\\nwho stood talking together on the terrace rep-\\nresented two hundred millions of dollars. At\\ndinner the red coats of the officers make brill-\\niant spots of color among all the black of the\\nother men, and at first sight it does seem too\\nodd to see evening dress consist of black trou-\\nsers and a bright-red coat which stops off\\nshort at the waist. But if you think that\\nlooks odd, what will you say to the officers\\nof the Highland regiments? Their full\\ndress is almost as immodest in a different\\nway as that of some women, and one of the\\nmost exquisite paradoxes of British custom\\nis that a Highland undress uniform consists\\nof the addition of long* trousers more clothes\\nthan they w^ear in dress uniform.\\nCairo is cosmopolitan. You may ride a\\nsmart cob, a camel, or a donkey, and nobody\\nwill even look twice at you. You will see\\nharem carriages with closed blinds; coupes\\nwith the syces running before them (and\\nthere is nothing in Cairo more beautiful than\\nsome of these men and the way they run)\\nyou will see the Khedive driving with his\\nbody-guard of cavalry; you will see fat\\nEgyptian nurses out in basket phaeton with\\nlittle English children; you will see tiny\\n221", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhojs, no bigger than our Billy, in a fever\\nof delight over riding on a live donkey, and\\nattended by a syce you will see emancipated\\nEgyptian women trying to imitate European\\ndress and manners, and making a mess of\\nit; you will see gamblers, adventurers, and\\nsavants all mixed together, with all the hues\\nof the rainbow in their costumes; you will\\nsee water-carriers carrying drinking-water in\\nnasty-looking dried skins, which still retain\\nthe outlines of the animals, only swollen out\\nof shape, and unspeakably revolting you will\\nsee native women carrying their babies\\nastride their shoulders, with the little things\\nresting their tiny brown hands on their\\nmothers heads, and often laying their little\\nblack heads down, too, and going fast to\\nsleep, while these women walk majestically\\nthrough the streets with only their eyes show-\\ning you will see all sorts of hideous cripples,\\nand more blind and cross-eyed people than\\nyou ever saw in all your life before you will\\nsee venders of fly-brushes, turquoises, am-\\nber, ostrich-feathers, bead necklaces from\\nE^ubia, scarabsei and antiquities which bear\\nthe hall-marks of the manufacturers as clear-\\nly as if stamped Made in Germany you\\nwill see sore-eyed children sitting in groups\\nin doorways, with numberless flies on each\\neye, making no effort to dislodge them; and\\nyou will visit mosques and bazaars which you\\n222", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfeel sure call for insect-powder you will see\\nArabian men knitting stockings in the street,\\nand thinking it no shame you will see count-\\nless eunuchs with their coal-black, beardless\\nfaces, their long, soft, nerveless hands, long\\nlegs, and the general make-up of a mush-\\nroom-boy who has outgrown his strength;\\nyou will hear the cawing of countless rooks\\nand crows, and if you leave your window\\nopen these rascals will fly in and eat your\\nfruit and sweets; you will see and hear the\\npicturesque lemonade-vendor selling his vile-\\ntasting acid from a long, beautiful brass ves-\\nsel of irregular shape, and you never can get\\naway from the horrible jangling noise he\\nmakes from two brass bowls to call attention\\nto his w^ares you will see tiny boys in tights\\ndoing acrobatic feats on the sidewalk, walk-\\ning on their hands in front of you for a whole\\nsquare as you take your afternoon stroll, and\\nthen pleading with you for backsheesh; you\\nwill see hideous monkeys of a sort you never\\nsaw before, trained to do the same thing, so\\nthat you cannot walk out in Cairo without\\nbeing attended with some sort- of a body-\\nguard, either monkey, acrobat, cripple, or\\nthe beggar-girls with their sweet, plaintive\\nvoices, their pretty smiles, and their eternal\\nhunger, to coax the piasters from your open\\npurse. But you accept these sights and\\nsounds as a part of this wonderful old city,\\n223", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nand each day the fascination will grow on\\nyou until you will be obliged to go to a series\\nof afternoon teas in order to cool your en-\\nthusiasm.\\nIn passing, the flies of Egypt deserve a\\ntribute to their peculiar qualities. A plague\\nof American flies would be a luxury com-\\npared to the visit of one fly from Egypt.\\nEor untold centuries they have been in the\\nhabit of crawling over thick-skinned faces\\nand bodies, and not being dislodged. They\\ncan stay all day if they like. Consequently,\\nif they see an American eye, and they light\\non it, not content with that, they try to crawl\\nin. You attempt to brush them off, but they\\nonly move around to the other side, until you\\nnearly go mad with nervousness from their\\nsticky feet. If they find out your ear they\\ncrawl in and walk around. You cannot dis-\\ncourage them. They craze you with their\\ninfuriating persistence. If had been the\\nEgyptians, the Israelites would have been\\nescorted out of the country in state at the\\narrival of the first fly.\\nEngland has done a marvellous good to\\nEgypt by her training. She has taken a lot\\nof worthless rascals and educated them to\\nwork at something, no matter if it does take\\nfive of them to call a cab. She has trained\\nthem to make good soldiers, well drilled be-\\ncause drilled by English ofiicers^ and making\\n224", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\na creditable showing. She has made fairly\\ndependable policemen of them^ but their legs\\nare the most wabbly and crooked of any that\\never were seen. These policemen are armed.\\nOne carries a pistol and the other the car-\\ntridges. If they happened to be together\\nthey could be very dangerous to criminals.\\nShe has developed all the resources of the\\ncountry, and made it fat and productive, but\\nshe never can give the common people brains.\\nIt poured rain this morning, and there is\\nno drainage; consequently, rivers of water\\nwere rushing down the gutters, making\\ncrossings impassable and traffic impossible.\\nThey called out the fire-engines to pump the\\nwater up in the main thoroughfare, but on a\\nside street I stopped the carriage for half an\\nhour and watched four Arabs working at the\\nproblem. One walked in with a broom and\\nswept the water down the gutter to another\\nman who had a dust-pan. With this dust-\\npan he scooped up as much as a pint of water\\nat a time, and poured it into a tin pail, which\\ngave occupation to the third Arab, who stood\\nin a bent position and urged him on. The\\nfourth Arab then took this pail of water, ran\\nout, and emptied it into the middle of the\\nstreet, and the water beat him running back\\nto the gutter. I said to them, Why don t\\nyou use a sieve It would take longer.\\nAnd they said, Iso speak English.\\np 225", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI watched tliem until I grew tired, and\\nthen I went to the ostrich-farm as a sort of\\ndistraction, and I really think that an ostrich\\nhas more brains than an Arab.\\nThis farm is very large, and the ostrich-\\npens are bnilt of mud. I never had seen\\nostriches before, and I had no idea how\\nhideous, how big, and how enchanting they\\nare. They have the most curious agate-color-\\ned eyes colorless, cold, yet intelligent eyes.\\nBut they are the eyes of a bird without a\\nconscience. They have no soul, as camels\\nhave. An ostrich looks as if he would really\\nenjoy villainy, as if he could commit crime\\nafter crime from pure love of it, and never\\nknow remorse; yet there is a fascination\\nabout the old birds, and they have their good\\npoints. The father is domestic in spite of\\nlooking as if he belonged to all the clubs,\\nand, much to my delight, I saw one sitting\\non the eggs while the mother walked out and\\ntook the air. Ostriches and Arabs do wom-\\nen s work with an admirable disregard of\\nMrs. Grundy. Ostriches have an irresistible\\nway of waving their lovely plumy wings, and\\none old fellow twenty-five years old actually\\nimitates the dervishes. The keeper says to\\nhim, Dance, and although he is about ten\\nfeet tall, he sits down with his scaly legs\\nspread out on each side of him, and, shutting\\nhis eyes, he throws his long, ugly red neck\\n226", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfrom side to side, making a curious grunting\\nnoise, and waving his wings in billowy line\\nlike a skirt-dancer. It was too wonderful\\nto see him, and it was almost as revolting as\\na real dervisli.\\nWe saw these dervishes once nothing could\\npersuade us to go twice thev were too nasty.\\nThe night the Khedive goes to the Citadel,\\nto the mosque of Mohammed AH, to pray for\\nhis heart s desire (for on that night all pray-\\ners of the faithful are sure to be answered),\\nthe dervishes in great numbers are perform-\\ning their rites. They are called the howl-\\ning dervishes, but they do not howl; they\\nonly make a horrible grunting noise. They\\nhave long, dirty, greasy hair, and as they\\nthrow their bodies backward and forward\\nthis hair flies, and sometimes strikes the care-\\nless observer in the face. They work them-\\nselves up to a perfect passion of religious\\necstasy to the monotonous sound of Arab\\nm.usic, and never have I heard or seen any-\\nthing more revolting. The negroes in the\\nSouth when they get the power are not\\nnearly so repulsive.\\nIt is England s wise policy in all her colo-\\nnies to have her army- take part in the na-\\ntional religious ceremonies, so when the Sa-\\ncred Carpet started from the Citadel on its\\njourney to Mecca there was a magnificent\\nmilitary display.\\n227", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nit is an odd thing to call it a carpet^, for\\nit not only is not a carpet in itself, but it is\\nnot the shape of a carpet, it is not nsed for a\\ncarpet, and does not look like a carpet.\\nWe were among the fortunate ones who\\nwere invited to the private view of it the\\nnight before, when the faithful were dedicat-\\ning it. They sat on the floor, these Moham-\\nmedans, rocking themselves back and forth,\\nand chanting the Koran. I believe the reason\\nnearly all Arabs have crooked legs is because\\nthey squat so much. One cannot have\\nstraight legs when one uses one s legs to sit\\ndown on for hours at a time. They always\\nsit in the sun, too, and that must bake them\\ninto their crookedness.\\nThe carpet is a black velvet embroider-\\ned solidly in silver and gold. It is shaped\\nlike an old-fashioned Methodist church, only\\nthere are minarets at the four corners. It\\nlooks like a pall. Every year they send a\\nnew one to Mecca, and then the old one is\\ncut into tiny bits and distributed among the\\nfaithful, who wear it next their hearts.\\nThis carpet was about six feet long, and\\nwas railed in so that no one could touch it. A\\nman stood by and sprayed attar of roses on\\nyou as you passed, but I do not know what\\nhe did it for, unless it was to turn sensitive\\nwomen faint with the heaviness of the per-\\nfume.\\n2,28", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nBut the next morning the procession ioi^ ni-\\ned, and amid the wildest enthusiasm, the bow-\\ning and sahiaming of the men, and the shout-\\ning and running of the chiklren, and the sing-\\ning of the Arabs who bore the carpet, it was\\nplaced upon the most magnificent camel I\\never saw, which was covered from head to\\nfoot with cloth of gold, and whose very gait\\nseemed more majestic because of his saci ed\\nburden, and thus, led by scores of enthusi-\\nastic Arabs, he moved slowly down the street,\\nfollowing the covering for the tomb, and in\\nturn being followed by one scarcely less mag-\\nnificent destined to cover the sacred carpet\\nin its camel journey to Mecca. That was\\nabsolutely all there was to it, yet the Khedive\\nwas there with a fine military escort, and all\\nCairo turned out at the unearthly hour of\\neight o clock in the morning to see it.\\nAs we drove back we saw the streets for\\nblocks around a certain house hung with\\ncolored-glass lanterns, and thousands upon\\nthousands of small Turkey-red banners with\\nwhite Arabic letters on them strung on wires\\non each side of the street. These we knew\\nwere the decorations for the famous wedding\\nwhich was to occur that night, and to which\\nwe had fortunately been bidden. It was in\\nvery smart society. The son of a pasha was\\nto marry the daughter of a pasha, and the\\npresents were said to be superb.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nWe wore our best clothes. We had or-\\ndered our bouquets beforehand, for one al-\\nways presents the bride with a bouquet, and\\nthey were really very beautiful. It was a\\nwarm night, with no wind, and the heavens\\nwere twinkling with millions of stars. Such\\nbig stars as they have in Egypt\\nWhen we arrived we were taken in charge\\nby a eunuch so black that I had to feel my\\nway up-stairs. There were, perhaps, fifty\\nother eunuchs standing guard in the ante-\\nchamber, and our dragoman took the men who\\nbrought us around to another door, where all\\nthe men had to wait while we women visited\\nthe bride.\\nA motley throng of women were in the\\nouter room fat black women with waists\\ntwo yards around, canary-colored women\\nlaced into low-cut European evening dresses,\\nbrown women in native dress a babel of\\nvoices, chattering in curious Erench, Ara-\\nbic, Turkish, and Greek. All the women\\nwere terribly out of shape from every point\\nof view, and not a pretty one among them.\\nOne attendant snatched my bouquet without\\neven a Thank you (I had been wondering\\nto whom I should give it, but I need not have\\nworried), and patted me on the back as she\\npushed me into the room where the bride sat\\non a throne amid piles upon piles of bou-\\nquets. She had a heavy, pale face covered\\n230", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwith powder, eyes and eyebrows blackened,\\nnails stained with henna, and a figure much\\ntoo fat. She wore a garment made of some-\\nthing which looked like mosquito-netting\\nheavily embroidered in gold, which hung\\nlike a rag. Her jewels were magnificent,\\nbut the effect of all this gorgeousness was\\nrather spoiled to the artistic eye by her gro-\\ntesque surroundings.\\nAfter we had visited the bride we were ap-\\nproached by a little yellow woman in blue\\nsatin, who asked me in French if I w^ould not\\nlike to see the chamhre a couclier, and I said\\nI would. We were then conducted to a room\\nall hung in blue satin embroidered in red.\\nLambrequins, chair-covers, bed-covers, pil-\\nlows, bed-hangings all the careful work of\\nthe bride. Then we were invited to inspect\\nthe presents in another room, which were all\\nin glass cabinets. Dozens of amber and\\njewelled cigarette-holders and ornaments of\\nevery description, most magnificent, but of no\\nearthly use as wedding presents sometimes\\nare.\\nThen we came down-stairs, and had all\\nsorts of things at a banquet, and heard Arab\\nmusic, and sat around in the room, where our\\nmen met us, and feeling rather bored, we de-\\ncided to go home. There we were wise, for\\nwe met quite by accident the procession of the\\nbridegroom. He was escorted through the\\n281", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nstreets by a Band, and two rows of young\\nmen carrying candelabra nnder glass shades.\\nWe turned and drove along beside liim and\\nwatched liim, but he was so nervous we felt\\nthat it was rather a mean thing to do. He\\nwas a handsome fellow, but never have I seen\\na man who looked so unhappy and ill at\\nease. When he entered the house he pro-\\nceeded to the door of the bride s room, where\\nhe threw down silver and gold as backsheesh\\nuntil her women were satisfied then he was\\npermitted to enter.\\nAs we drove away for the second time I\\nremembered that they were having torch-\\nlight tattoo at the barracks, and we decided\\nto stop for a moment.\\nIt won t seem bad to see some soldiers\\nwho can march, for the English soldiers are\\nmagnificently trained, I said, as we stopped\\nto buy our tickets. A young officer whom I\\nhad met heard my remark, and smiled and\\nsaluted.\\nThe English soldiers are the best in the\\nworld, arent they? he said, teasingly.\\nUndoubtedly, I replied, tranquilly.\\nHe looked a little staggered. He had en-\\ncountered my belligerent spirit before, and\\nhe did not expect me to agree with him.\\nYou you, an American, admit that f\\nhe said.\\nSurely, I replied.\\n232", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nBut why he persisted, most unwisely,\\nfor it gave me my chance.\\nBecause the Americans are the only\\nones who ever whipped them! American\\nsoldiers can heat even the hest\\nIt is now six weeks since I said that, but\\nas yet he has made no reply.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "XI\\nTHE NILE\\nIw travelling abroad there are some things\\nwhich you wish to do more than others. There\\nare certain treasures yon particularly desire\\nto see, certain scenes your mind has pictured,\\nuntil the dream has almost become a reality.\\nThe ascent of the Nile was one of my Meccas,\\nand now that it is over the reality has almost\\nbecome a dream.\\nIn Egypt the weather is so nearly perfect\\nduring the season that it was no surprise to\\nfind the day of our departure a cloudless one.\\nI seldom worry myself to arrange beforehand\\nfor the creature comforts of a journey, trust-\\ning to the beneficent star which seems to\\nhover over the unworthy to shine upon my\\npathway. But this time I had so dreamed of\\nand brooded over and longed for the IN ile\\nthat I went so far as to investigate the differ-\\nent lines of boats, and wx chose the moonlight\\ntime of the month, and we hurried through\\nRussia and Turkey and Greece with but one\\n234", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\naim in view, and that was to have onr feet on\\nthe deck of the Mayfloiuer on the 19th of Feb-\\nrnary. And we succeeded.\\nAh, it was a dream well worth realizing!\\nTwenty -one days of rest. Three glorious\\nweeks of smooth sailing over calm waters.\\nThree weeks of warmth and sunshine by day,\\nand of poetry and starlight by night. Three\\nweeks of drifting in the romance which sur-\\nrounds the name of that great sorceress, that\\nwonderful siren, that consummate coquette,\\nthat most fascinating woman the world has\\never known. Three weeks of steeping one s\\nsoul in the oldest, most complete and satis-\\nfactory ruins on the face of the earth. Here,\\nin delving into the past, we would have no\\nuse for the comparative word hundreds.\\nWe could boldly use the superlative word\\nthousands. What memories what dreams\\nwhat fragments of half -forgotten history and\\nromance came floating through the brain I\\nhave, general 1}^, little use for guide-books ex-\\ncept, afterwards, to verify what I have seen.\\nBut I admit that I had an especial longing to\\nreach the temple of Denderah, which was\\nsaid to contain the most famous relief of\\nCleopatra extant. I was anxious to see if\\nher beauty or her charm or anything which\\naccounted for her sorceries were reproduced.\\nIf Cleopatra s nose had been shorter, the\\nwhole h-i story of the world would have been\\n285", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nclianged. How far away she seemed How\\nnear slie would become\\nOn the terrace at Shepheard s the morning\\nof onr departure you could see by people s\\nfaces how they were going to make this jour-\\nney. Some had Stanley helmets on, and were\\nladen with cushions and steamer-chairs and\\nfruits as if for an ocean voyage. Others\\nwere clutching their Baedeker, and their\\nAmelia Edwards, and their Kismet/ and\\ntheir note-books, and wore a do-or-die expres-\\nsion of countenance. One or two others\\nfloated around aimlessly, with dreamy eyes,\\nas if they were already lost in the past which\\nnow pressed so closely at hand. Then the\\ncoach from the Gehzireh Palace rolled by in\\na cloud of dust, and people hurried down the\\nsteps of Shepheard s and took their places in\\nour coach, and the dragomans in their gor-\\ngeous costumes followed with wraps, and the\\nporters bustled about stowing away hand-lug-\\ngage, and Arabs croAvded near, thrusting\\ntheir violets and roses and amber necklaces\\nand beaded fly-brushes into your very face,\\nand the old man who sells turquoises made\\nhis last eftort to sell you a set for shirt-studs,\\nand the Egyptians and East-Indians from the\\nbazaars opposite came to the door and looked\\non with the perennial interest and friendli-\\nness of the Orient, and a swarm of beggars\\npleaded, with the excitement of a last chance,\\n236", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nfor backsheesh, and there was a babel of\\ntongues French, English, Italian, German,\\nand Arabic, all hurtling about your ears like\\nso many verbal bullets in a battle, when sud-\\ndenly the door slammed, the driver cracked\\nhis whip, the coach lurched forward, the chil-\\ndren scattered and we were off.\\nEverybody knows when a boat starts up\\nthe Kile, and everybody is interested and\\nnods and waves to everybody else. There\\nwas a short drive to the river amid polite calls\\nof good-bye and hon voyage/^ and there\\nlay the Mayfloioer, like a great white bird\\nwith comfortably folded wings. Nobody\\nseemed to hurry much, for a Nile boat does\\nnot start until her passengers are all on board.\\nAn hour or so makes no difference.\\nYou go down tlie bank of the Nile to go on\\nboard a boat upon steps cut in the earth, and\\nif your hands are full and you cannot hold\\nup your dress, you sweep some three inches\\nof fine yellow dust after you. But you don t\\ncare. The man ahead scuffed his dust in\\nyour face, and the woman behind you is\\nsneezing in yours, and everything and every-\\nbody are a little yellowish from it, but no-\\nbody stops to brush it off. It is too exciting\\nto hurry up on deck and place your steamer-\\nchair and fling your things into your state-\\nroom and rush out again for fear that you\\nwill miss something.\\n237", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThere were Italians, French, English,\\nPoles, Swedes, and Americans on board.\\nSome of them had titles. Some had only bad\\nmanners, with nothing to excuse them. But,\\nafter all, everybody was nice. I got through\\nthe whole three weeks without hating any-\\nbody and with only wanting to drown one\\npassenger. What better record of amiability\\ncould you ask?\\nBut one thing marred the start. This\\nAnglo American line of boats is the only\\nline in Egypt which flies the American flag.\\nThat w^as the final inducement they offered\\nwhich decided my choice of the Mayflower.\\nBut while we knew that she was obliged to\\nfly the British flag also, we were indignant be-\\nyond words to see a huge Union Jack floating\\nat the top of the forward flagstaff and be-\\nneath it a toy American flag about the size\\nof a cigar-box. Beneath the English flag!\\nI nearly wept with rage. The owner of the\\nline was at hand, and I did not wait to draw\\nup a petition or to consult my fellow- Ameri-\\ncans. I just said: Have the goodness to\\nhaul down that infant American flag, will\\nyou? I have no objection to sailing under\\nboth, but I do object to such an insulting dis-\\nparity in size. Besides that, you seem to\\nhave forgotten that the American flag never\\nflies heloiD any other flag on God s green\\nearth!\\n238", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nHe made some apologies, and gave the or-\\nder at once. The baby was hauled down\\namid the smiles of the English passengers.\\nBut at Assiout we were avenged when an\\nenormous American flag arrived by rail and\\nwas hoisted to the main flagstaff, twenty feet\\nhigher than tlie British. When I came out\\non deck that Sunday morning, and saw that\\nblessed flag waving above me, everything\\nblurred before my eyes, and I do assure you\\nthat it was tlie most beautiful sight I saw in\\nall of that European continent. You may\\ntalk about your temples and your ruins and\\nyour old masters Have you ever seen Old\\nGlory flying straight out from a flagstaff\\nin a foreign country seven thousand miles\\naway from home\\nThe Nile is much broader than I expected\\nto find it, and, like the Missouri and the\\nGolden Horn, it is always muddy. The\\nMayflower carries only fifty passengers,\\nwhich is of the greatest advantage for don-\\nkey-rides and for seeing the ruins, a larger\\nparty being unwieldy. She draws but two\\nfeet of water, having been built expressly\\nfor Nile service, so we had the proud satis-\\nfaction of seeing one of the big Rameses\\nboats stuck on a sand-bank for eighteen\\nhours, while we tooted past her blowing\\nwhistles of defiance and derision. Whenever\\nwe felt ourselves going aground on a sand-\\n33D", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbank we just reversed the engines and backed\\noff again, or else put on extra steam and\\nground our way through it. In the whole\\nthree weeks we were not aground ^ve min-\\nutes, although we passed one wreck settling\\nin the water, with the bedding and stores\\npiled up on the bank, and the passengers sail-\\ning away in the swallow-winged feluccas,\\nwhich had swooped down to their rescue like\\nso many compassionate birds.\\nAfternoon tea on the Nile is an unforget-\\nable function. Everybody comes on decJv\\nand sits under the awning and watches the\\nsun go down. Each day the sunsets grow\\nmore beautiful. Each day they differ from\\nall the rest. Such yellows and purples!\\nSuch violet shadows on the golden water!\\nSuch a marvellously sudden sinking of the\\nsun in a crimson flame behind the flat brown\\nhills And then the stillness of the Nile in\\nthe opal aftermath Those sunsets are some-\\nthing to carry in the memory forever and a\\nday.\\nAt night the sailors lower the side awn-\\nings, crawling along the railings with their\\nnaked prehensile feet. The captain, a Nu-\\nbian, on a salary of eighty-five cents a day,\\nselects a suitable spot on the bank where the\\nboat may remain all night. Then the bow\\nof the boat heads for the shore and digs her\\nnose in the soft mud. The sailors pitch the\\n240", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nstakes and mallets out on to the bank and\\nspring ashore. Then with Arab songs which\\nthey ahvays sing when rowing, hauling ropes,\\nscrubbing the decks, or doing any sort of\\nwork, the stem is gradually hauled alongside\\nthe bank, and there we stay until morning\\nin a stillness so absolute that even the cry\\nof the jackals seems in harmony with the\\nloneliness of it.\\nI dreaded the first excursion. It was to\\nMemphis and Sakhara, eighteen miles in all,\\nand I never had been on a donkey in my life.\\nI am not afraid of horses, but donkeys are so\\nmuch like mules. My friends encouraged\\nme all they could. They said that I would\\nhave a donkey-boy all to myself, that the\\ndonkey never went out of a walk, and wound\\nup by the cheerful assurance that if he did\\npitch me over his head I would not have far\\nto fall.\\nThe donkey-boys of the ^N ile deserve a\\nbook all to themselves. Such craft! Such\\nflattery Such knowledge of human nature\\nWith unerring sagacity they discover your\\nnationality and give your donkey names\\nfamous in your own country, ^ever will\\nan Englishman find himself astride Yankee\\nDoodle or Uncle Sam, or an American\\nupon John Bull. They pick you up in\\ntheir arms to put you on or take you from\\nyour donkey as if you were a baby. They\\nQ 241", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nrun beside you holding your umbrella with\\none hand, and with the other arm holding\\nyou on if you are timid. Staid, dignified\\nwomen who teach Sunday-school classes at\\nhome, who would not permit a white man-\\nservant to touch them, lean on their donkey-\\nboys as if they were human balustrades.\\nMy first donkey-boy was an enchanting\\nrascal. He looked like a handsome bronze\\nstatue. My donkey was a pale, drab little\\nbeast, woolly and dejected. He looked as\\nthough if you hurled contemptuous epithets\\nat him for a week they would all fit his case.\\nMy companion s was more jaunty. He had\\nbeen clipped in patterns. His legs were all\\ndone in hieroglyphics, and he held his ears\\nup while mine trailed his in the sand.\\n]N^evertheless, I was so deadly afraid of\\nhim that I saw my forty-nine fellow-passen-\\ngers leave me, one after the other, while I\\nstill hesitated and eyed him suspiciously.\\nPerhaps I never would have mounted had\\nnot Imam, the dragoman, with the frank un-\\nceremoniousness of the East, caught me up\\nin his arms and landed me on my donkey be-\\nfore I could protest. And in the face of his\\nchildish smile of confidence I could only\\ngasp. We moved off with the majesty of a\\nfuneral procession.\\nWhat s the name of my donkey asked\\nmy companion.\\n242", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nCleveland/ came the answer like a\\nflash.\\nWe were enchanted.\\nAnd what s the name of mine I asked.\\n^^McKinley!\\nThen we shouted. You have no idea how\\nfunny it sounded to hear those two familiar\\nnames in such strange surroundings. We\\nnearly tumbled off in our delight, and so\\nquick are those clever little donkey-boys to\\nwatch your face and divine your mood that\\nin a second they gave that weird, long-drawn\\ndonkey call, Oh-h-ah-h and my com-\\npanion s donkey swung into a gentle trot,\\nwith her donkey-boy running behind, beating\\nhim with a stick and pinching him in the\\nlegs.\\nAt that Mclvinley, not to be outdone by\\nany Democratic donkey, pricked up his ears.\\nI heard a terrific commotion behind me.\\nThe string of bells around McKinley s neck\\ndeafened me, and I remember then and there\\nlosing all confidence in the administration,\\nfor McKinley was a Derby winner. He was\\na circus donkey. He broke into a crazy\\ngallop, then into a mad run. I shrieked, but\\nmy donkey-boy thought it was a sound of\\njoy, and only prodded him the more. In\\nless than two minutes I had shot past every\\none of the party, and for the whole day\\nMcKinley and I headed the procession. I\\n243", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nonly saw my companion at a distance\\nthrough a cloud of dust, and she does not\\ntrust me any more. Thus have I to bear the\\nsins of Mohammed Ali, my perfidious don-\\nkey-hoy, who forced me to lead the van on\\nthat dreadful first day at Sakhara.\\nEverywhere you go you hear the insist-\\nent, importunate cry for backsheesh. Old\\nmen, women, children, dragomans, guides,\\nmerchants, and street-venders all sorts and\\nconditions of men beg for it. They teach\\neven babies to take hold of your dress and cry\\nfor it. And to toss backsheesh over to the\\ncrowd on the bank as the steamer moves away\\nis to see every one of them roll over in the\\ndirt and fight and scratch like cats over half\\na piaster. There is no such thing as self-\\nrespect among the natives. They are govern-\\ned by blows and curses, and even the eyes of\\nsheiks and native police glisten at the word\\nbacksheesh.\\nAt Assiout one night we heard some one\\ncalling from the bank in English Lady,\\nlady, give me some English books. I am a\\nChristian. I can read English. Give me a\\nBible. 1 go to the American college. I want\\nto be a preacher. I leaned over the railing\\nand discerned a very black boy, whose name,\\nhe said, was Solomon. I was so surprised to\\nhear Bible instead of backsheesh that 1\\ninvestigated. He said his mother and father\\n244", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwere dead; that he had only been to college\\na year that he wanted to be a preacher, and\\nthat he would pray God for me if I wonld\\ngive him a Bible. I was touched. He spelled\\nAmerica, and I gave him backsheesh. He\\ntold me the population of the United States,\\nand I gave him more backsheesh. He sang\\nUpidee with an accent which threw me\\ninto such ecstasies that it brought the whole\\nboat to hear him, and we all gave him back-\\nsheesh. But his piety was what captivated us.\\nI heard afterwards that no fewer than ten\\nof us privately resolved to give him Bibles.\\nHe begged us to visit the college so the next\\nday eight of us gave up the tombs and went\\nto the American college, which was floating\\nthe Stars and Stripes because it was Wash-\\nington s birthday. We spoke to Dr. Alex-\\nander, the president, of our friend Solomon.\\nHe told us that he was an absolute fraud, but\\none of the cleverest boys in the college. He\\nwas not an orphan. His father took a new\\nwife every year, and his mother also had an\\nassorted collection of husbands. He had\\nbeen to school five years instead of one. He\\nhad no end of Bibles. People gave them to\\nhim and he sold them. He had been in jail\\nfor stealing, and on the whole his showing\\nwas not such as to encourage us to help him\\nto preach. Such was Solomon, a typical\\nEgvptian, an equally accurate type of the\\n245", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nArab. They are the cleverest and most con-\\nsummate liars in the world. I wonder that\\nthe noble men and women who are giving\\ntheir lives to teaching in that wonderful mis-\\nsion college have the courage to go on with\\nit, the material is so unpromising. Yet\\nArabic acuteness makes it interesting, after\\nall. A pretty little water-carrier named\\nFatima, who wore a blue bead in the hole\\nbored in her nose, and only one other gar-\\nment besides, ran beside me at Denderah,\\ncalling me beautiful princess, and kissing\\nmy hand until she made my glove sticky,\\n^one of us were too old or too hideous in our\\nE ile costumes to be called beautiful and\\ngood. My donkey-boy at Karnak assured me\\nthat I was his father and his mother. He\\ntouched his forehead to my hand, then show-\\ned me how his dress was broken, and\\nbegged his new father-and-mother to give\\nhim a new one.\\nThey are creatures of a different race.\\nYou treat them as you would treat affection-\\nate dogs. Y^ou beat them if they pick your\\npockets, as they do every chance they get,\\nand then they offer to show you the boy who\\ndid it. I never got to the point of personally\\nbeating mine, but Imam beat a few of them\\nevery day. On one occasion my donkey-\\nboy, Hassan, was angry with me because I\\nwould not let him buy feed for the donkey,\\n246", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nAmmon Ra, and refused to bring him np\\nwhen I wanted to mount. I called to the\\ndragoman, and said:\\nImam, Hassan won t bring up mv don-\\nkey.\\nImam looked at him a moment in silence,\\nthen with a lightning slap on the cheek he\\nlaid him flat in the sand. I was horrified.\\nBut to mj amazement Hassan hopped up\\nand began to kiss my sleeve and to apologize,\\nsaying, Very good lady. Bad donkey-boy.\\nHassan sorry. Very good lady.\\nWe have had three Christmases this year.\\nThe first was in Berlin, the second in Rus-\\nsia, and the third on the Nile the day after\\nthe fast of Ramazan is ended. Ramazan\\nlasts only thirty days instead of forty, like our\\nLent. The thirty-first is a holiday. They\\npresent each other with gifts, do no work,\\nand picnic in the graveyards.\\nBetween Esneh and Luxor we passed a\\nsteamer with some English officers on board,\\nand their steamer was towing two flat-boats\\ncontaining their regiments, all going to\\nKitchener in the Soudan. I used the field-\\nglass on them, while my companion photo-\\ngraphed them. We waved to them, and they\\nwaved to us and swung their hats and sa-\\nluted. At Edfou they caught up with us,\\nand passed so close to our boat that the gen-\\ntlemen talked to them and asked what their\\n247", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nregiments were. They said the Twenty-first\\nLancers and the Seaforth and Cameron\\nHighlanders. Then their boat was gone.\\nHow conld we know that those gallant offi-\\ncers of the Twenty-first Lancers would so\\nsoon lead that daring cavalry charge at Om-\\ndurman, and possibly one of those who sa-\\nluted so gayly was the one killed on the aw-\\nful day It touched us very much, however,\\nto think that they might be going to their\\ndeath, and we were glad they did not belong\\nto us, little dreaming that the blowing-up of\\nthe Maine of which we had just heard,\\nwould so soon plunge our own dear country\\ninto war, and that our own fathers and\\nbrothers and friends would be marching and\\nsailing away to defend that same Old\\nGlory whose stars and stripes were floating\\nover our heads, and whose gallant colors\\nwould succor the oppressed and avenge in-\\nsult with equal promptness and equal dig-\\nnity.\\nThe temple of Denderah is not, to my\\nmind, more beautiful than those of Luxor\\nand Karnak; in fact, both of those are more\\nmajestic, but the mural decorations of Den-\\nderah are in a state of marvellous preserva-\\ntion. I own, after seeing that in some places\\neven the original colors remained, that I\\nquite held my breath as we approached the\\nfamous figure of Cleopatra. The sorceress\\n248", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof the Nile! The favorite of the goddess\\nHathor herself The siren who could tempt\\nan emperor to forsake his empire or a gen-\\neral to renounce fame and honor more easily\\nthan a modern woman could persuade a man\\nto break an engagement to dine with her\\nrival Queen of the Lotus Empress of\\nthe Pyramids What grace, what charm I\\nanticipated I wondered if she would be\\nportrayed floating down to meet Antony,\\nwith her purple and perfumed sails, her\\ncloth of gold garments, her peacocks, her\\nibex, her lotus-blooms, and if all her myste-\\nrious fascinations would be spread before\\nthe delighted gaze of her humble worshipper.\\nWhat I found is shown in the frontis-\\npiece to this volume. Beauty unadorned\\nwith a vengeance From this time on I shall\\nquestion the taste of Antony. I only wish\\nhe could have lived to see some American\\ngirls I knoAv.\\nWe saw Karnak and Philse by moonlight,\\nand we lunched in the tombs of the kings,\\nwith hieroglyphics thousands of years old\\nlooking down upon our pickled onions and\\ncold fowl, and we ploughed through the\\nsands at Assouan and saw the naked Nu-\\nbians, wn th a silver ear-ring in the top of\\ntheir left ear, shoot the rapids of the first\\ncataract. We stood, too, in the temple of\\nLuxor, before the altar of Hathor, with the\\n249", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nsunset on one side and the moonrise on the\\nother, and heard what her votaries say to the\\nGoddess of Beauty. It was so mystical that\\nwe almost joined in the worship of the Egyp-\\ntian Venus Aphrodite. It was so still, so\\nmajestic, so aloof from everything modern\\nand new.\\nThe Nile is essentially a river of silence\\nand mystery. The ibis is always to be seen,\\nstanding alone, seemingly absorbed in\\nmeditation. The camels turn their beauti-\\nful soft eyes upon you as if you were intrud-\\ning upon their silence and reserve. Never\\nwere the eyes in a human head so beautiful\\nas a camel s. There is a limpid softness, an\\nappealing plaintiveness in their expression\\nwhich drags at your sympathies like the look\\nin the eyes of a hunchback. It means that,\\nwith your opportunities, you might have\\ndone more with your life. Your mother\\nlooks at you that way sometimes in church,\\nwhen the sermon touches a particularly raw\\nnerve in your spiritual make-up. I always\\nfeel like apologizing when a camel looks at\\nme.\\nOne moonlight night was so bright that\\nour boat started about three o clock instead\\nof waiting for daylight, and the start swung\\nmy state-room door open. It was so warm that\\nI let it remain, and lay there hearing the gen-\\ntle swish of the water curling against the side\\n250", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof the steamer, and seeing the soft moonlight\\nform a silver pathway from the yellow bank\\nacross the river to my cabin door. The ma-\\nchinery made no noise. There was no more\\nvibration than on a sail-boat. And there was\\nthe whole panorama of the Nile spread before\\nmy eyes, with all its romance ancl all its mys-\\ntery bathed in an enchanting radiance. Oc-\\ncasionally a raven croaked. Sometimes a\\njackal howled. An obelisk made an excla-\\nmation-point against the sky, or the ruins of\\na temple fretted the horizon. It was the land\\nof Ptolemj j of liameses, of Hathor, of Horns,\\nof Isis and Osiris, of Ilerodotns and Cleo-\\npatra, of Pharaoh s daughter and Moses. It\\nwas the silence of tlie ages which fell upon\\nme, and then and there, in that hour of abso-\\nlute stillness and solitude and beauty un-\\nspeakable, all my dreams of the N^ile came\\ntrue.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "XII\\nGREECE\\nAfter our ship left Smyrna, where the\\ncamels are the finest in the world, and where\\nthe rugs set you crazy, we came across to the\\nPiraeus, and arrived so late that very few of\\nthe passengers dared to land for fear the ship\\nwould sail without them. It Avas blowing a\\nperfect gale, the sea was rough, and the cap-\\ntain too cross to tell us how long we would\\nhave on shore. I looked at my companion\\nand she looked at me. In that one glance we\\ndecided that we would see the Acropolis or\\ndie in the attempt. A Cook s guide was\\nwatching our indecision with hungry eyes.\\n[We have since named him Bar abbas, for rea-\\nsons known to every unfortunate who ever\\nfell into his hands. But he was clever. He\\nsaid that we might cut his head off if he did\\nnot get us back to the boat in time. We as-\\nsured him that we would gladly avail our-\\nselves of his permission if that ship sailed\\nwithout us. Then we scuttled down the heav-\\n252", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ning stairway at the ship s side, and away we\\nwent over (or mostly through) the waves to\\nthe Pimeus. There we took a carriage, and\\nat the maddest gallop it ever was my lot to\\ntravel we raced up that lovely smooth avenue,\\nbetween rows of wild pepper-trees which met\\noverhead, to Athens; through Athens at a\\nrun, and reached the Acropolis, blown al-\\nmost to pieces ourselves, and with the horses\\nin a white foam.\\nUp to that time the Acropolis had been but\\na name to me. I landed because it was a\\nsight to see, and I thought an hour or so\\nwould be better than to miss it altogether.\\nBut when I climbed that hill and set my foot\\nwithin that majestic ruin, something awful\\nclutched at my heart. I could not get my\\nbreath. The tears came into my eyes, and\\nall at once I was helpless in the grasp of the\\nmost powerful emotion which ever has come\\nover me in all Europe. I could not under-\\nstand it, for I came in an idle mood, no more\\ninterested in it than in scores of other won-\\nders I was thirsting to see Luxor, Karnak^\\nPhilse, Denderah all of those invited me\\nquite as much as the Acropolis, but here I\\nwas speechless with surprise at my own emo-\\ntion. I can imagine that such violence of\\nfeeling might turn a child into a woman, a\\nboy into a man. All at once I saw the whole\\nof Greek art in its proper setting. The\\n253", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nVenus of Milo was no longer in the Louvre\\nagainst its red background, where French\\ntaste has placed it, the better to set it off.\\nIts cold, proud beauty was here again in\\nGreece; the Hermes at Olympia; the Wing-\\nless Victory from the temple of l!^ike Apte-\\nros, made wingless that victory might never\\ndepart from Athens; the lovelier Winged\\nVictory from the Louvre, with her electric\\npoise, the most exhilarating, the most inspir-\\ning, the most intoxicating Victory the world\\nhas ever known, was loosed from her marble\\nprison, and was again breathing the pure air\\nof her native hills. Their white figures came\\ncrowding into my mind.\\nThe learning of the philosophers of\\nGreece the plain living and high think-\\ning they taught the unspeakable purity of\\nher art; the ineffable manner in which her\\nmasters reproduced the idea of the stern, cold\\npride of aloofness in these sublime types of\\nperfect men, wrung my heart with a sense of\\npersonal loss. I can imagine that Pygmalion\\nfelt about Galatea as I felt that first hour in\\nthe Acropolis. I can imagine that a woman\\nwho had loved with the passion of her life\\na man of matchless integrity, of superb\\npride, of lofty ideals, and who had lost that\\nlove irretrievably through a fault of her\\nown, whose gravity she first saw through his\\neyes Avhen it was too late, might have felt as\\n254", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nI felt in that hour. All the agony of a hope-\\nless love for an art which never can return;\\nall the sense of personal loss for the purity\\nwhich I was completely realizing for the first\\ntime Avhen it was too late; all the intense\\nlonging to have the dead past live again, that\\nI might prove myself more worthy of it, as-\\nsailed me with as mighty a force as ever the\\nhuman heart could experience and still con-\\ntinue to beat. The piteous fragments of this\\nlost art which remained a few columns, the\\nremnants of an immortal frieze, the long lines\\nof drapery from which the head and figure\\nwere gone, the cold brow of the Hermes, the\\npurity of his profile, the proud curve of his\\nlips, the ineffable wanness of his smile I\\ncould have cast myself at the foot of the Par-\\nthenon and wept over the personal disaster\\nwdiich befell me in that hour of realization.\\nI never again ^vish to go through such an\\nagony of emotion. The Acropolis made the\\nwhole of Europe seem tawdry. I felt ashamed\\nof the gorgeous sights I had seen, of the rich\\ndinners I had eaten, of the luxuries I had en-\\njoyed. I felt as if I Avould like to have the\\nwhole of my past life fall away from me as\\na cast-off garment, and that if I could only\\nbegin over I could do so much better with my\\nlife. I could have knelt and beat my hands\\ntogether in a wild, impotent prayer for the\\npast to be given into mv keeping for just one\\n255", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmore trial, one more opportunity to live up\\nto the beauty and holiness and purity I had\\nmissed. When I looked up and saw the\\nnaked columns of the Parthenon silhouetted\\nagainst the sky, bereft of their capitals,\\nragged, scarred, battered with the war of wind\\nand weather and countless ages, all about me\\nthe ruins seemed to say, Your appreciation\\nis in vain; it is too late, too late\\nI have an indistinct recollection of stum-\\nbling into the carriage, of driving down a\\nsteep road, of having the Pentelikon pointed\\nout to me, of knowing that near that moun-\\ntain lay Marathon, of seeing the statue of\\nGreece crowning Byron, but I heard with\\nunhearing ears, I saw with unseeing eyes. I\\nhad left my heart and all my senses in the\\nAcropolis. I believe that one who had left\\nher loved one in the churchyard, on the way\\nhome for the first time to her empty house,\\nhas felt that dazed, unrealizing yet dumb\\nheartache that I felt for days after leaving\\nthe Parthenon.\\nIt grew worse the farther I went away\\nfrom it, and for two months I have longed\\nfor Athens, Marathon, Thermopylag, Salamis.\\nI wanted to stand and feast my soul upon the\\nglories which were such living memories.\\nAll through Egypt and up the E ile my one\\nwish was to live long enough and for the\\nweeks to ily fast enough for me to get back\\n256", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nto Athens, ^ow I am liere for the second\\ntime, and for as long as I wish to remain.\\nWe came sailing into the harbor jnst at\\nsunset. Such a sunset! Such blue in the\\nMediterranean! Such a soft haze on the\\npurple hills How the gods must have loved\\nAthens to place her in the garden spot of all\\nthe earth to pour into her lap such treasures\\nof art, and to endow her masters with power\\nto create such an art! The approach is so\\nbeautiful. Our big black Russian ship cut\\nher way in utter silence through the bluest of\\nblue seas, with scarcely a ripple on the sun-\\nlit waters, between amethyst islands studded\\nwith emerald fields, making straight for that\\nwhich was at one time the bravest, noblest,\\nmost courageous, most beautiful country on\\nearth.\\nThe isles of Greece, the isles of Greece\\nWhere burning Sappho loved and sung,\\nWhere grew the arts of war and peace,\\nWhere Delos rose and Phoebus sprung!\\nEternal summer gilds them yet,\\nBut all except their sun is set.\\nByron s statue stands in the square, sur-\\nrounded by evergreens; his picture is in the\\nEcole Polytechnique, and his memory and\\nhis songs are revered throughout all Greece.\\nHow her beauty tore at his soul! How her\\nlove for freedom met with an echo in his o^vn\\nheart! No wonder he sang, with such a\\nE 257", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntheme! It was enough to give a stone song\\nand the very rocks utterance.\\nIt was Sunday, and as we drove through\\nthe clean, white streets, feeling absolutely\\nhushed with the beauty which assailed us on\\nevery side, suddenly we heard the sound of\\nmusic, mournful as a dirge a martial\\ndirge. And presently we saw approaching\\nus the saddest, most touching yet awful pro-\\ncession I ever beheld. It was a military\\nfuneral. First came the band; then came\\ntwo men bearing aloft the cover to the cas-\\nket, WTeathed in flowers and streaming with\\ncrape. Then, borne in an open coffin by four\\nyoung officers of his staff, with bands of\\ncrape on their arms and knots of crape on\\ntheir swords, was the dead officer, an old,\\ngray-haired general, dressed in the full uni-\\nform of the Greek army, with his browned,\\nwrinkled, deep-lined hands crossed over his\\nsword. The casket was shallow, and thus\\nhe was exposed to the view of the gaping\\nmultitude, without even a glass lid to cover\\nhis bronzed face, and with the glaring sun\\nbeating down upon his closed eyes and noble\\ngray head. Just behind him they led his rid-\\nerless black horse, with his master s boots re-\\nversed in the stirrups and the empty saddle\\nknotted with crape. It was at once majestic,\\nheartrending, and terrible. It unnerved me,\\nand yet it was not surprising to have such a\\n258", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmoving spectacle greet me on my return to\\nGreece.\\nWe drove over the same road from the\\nPiraeus to Athens, but in the two months of\\nour absence they had mended a Avorn place in\\nthis road and had unearthed a most beauti-\\nful sarcophagus, which they placed in the\\nnational museum. The cement which held\\nit on its pedestal was not yet dry when we\\nsaw it. They do not know its date, nor the\\nhand of the sculptor who carved it, yet it\\nneeds no name to proclaim its beauty.\\nI have now seen Athens as I wanted to see\\nit. I have seen it consecutively. It was\\nbeautiful to begin with the Acropolis and to\\ntake all day to examine just the frieze of the\\nParthenon. We had to have written permis-\\nsion, which we received through the Ameri-\\ncan minister, to allow us to climb up on the\\nscaffolding and get a near view of it. But\\nwe did it, and we were close enough to touch\\nit, to lay our hands on it, and we waited\\nhours for the sun to sink low enough to creep\\nbetween the giant beams and touch the met-\\nopes so that we could photograph them. Of\\ncourse, we could have bought photographs of\\nthem, but it seemed more like possessing\\nthem to take them with our own little\\ncameras.\\nThe central metope is the most beautiful\\nand in the best state of preservation of all\\n259", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthis marvel from the hand of Phidias; yet\\nthe work of destruction goes on, as only last\\nyear the head of the rider fell and broke\\ninto a thousand pieces, so that only the horse,\\nthe figure, and the electric splendor of his\\nwind-blown garments floating out behind him\\nremain. There is so little of this frieze left\\nthat it requires the full scope of the imagina-\\ntion, as one stands and looks at it, to picture\\nthis triumphal procession of Pan-Athenians\\nwhich every four years formed at the Acrop-\\nolis and wound majestically down through\\nthe Sacred Way to the Temple of Mysteries\\nto sacrifice to the goddess in honor of Mara-\\nthon and Salamis.\\nBut we followed this road ourselves. We,\\ntoo, took the Sacred Way. On the loveliest\\nday imaginable we drove along this smooth\\nwhite road we saw the Bay of Salamis we\\nwound around the sweetheart curve of her\\nshore; the purple hills forming the cup\\nwhich holds her translucent waters are the\\nbackground to this famous battle-ground;\\nand beyond, set on the brow of one of these\\nhills like a diadem, is all that remains of the\\nTemple of Mysteries. Broken columns are\\nthere, pedestals, fragments of proud arches,\\nnow shattered and trodden under foot. Its\\nmajesty is that of a sleeping goddess, so still,\\nso tranquil, proud even, in its ruins; yet in\\nsuch utter silence it lies. In the cracks of\\n260", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe marble floors, in the crannies of the\\nwalls, springing from beneath the broken\\nstatue, voiceless yet persistent, grow scarlet\\npoppies the sleep flowers of the world,\\nyielding to this yellowing Temple of Mys-\\nteries the quieting influence of their pres-\\nence.\\nThe next day, almost in the spirit of wor-\\nship, we went to Marathon. If Salamis was\\nmy Holy Grail, then Marathon was my\\nMecca. We started out quite early in the\\nmorning, with relays of horses to meet us on\\nthe way. It tried to rain once or twice, but\\nit seemed not to have the heart to spoil my\\ncrusade, for presently the sun struggled\\nthrough the ragged clouds and shed a hazy\\nhalf light through their edges, which com-\\npletely destroyed the terrible, blinding glare\\nand made the day simply perfect.\\nThe road to Marathon led through or-\\nchards of cherry-trees white with blossoms,\\nthrough green vineyards, past groves of olive-\\ntrees which look old enough to have seen the\\nPersian hosts, through groups of cypress-\\ntrees, siich noble sentinels of deathless ever-\\ngreen through fields of wild-cabbage blooms,\\nmaking the air as sweet as the alfalfa-fields\\nof the West; across the Valanaris by a lit-\\ntle bridge, and suddenly an isolated farm-\\nhouse with a wine-press, and then Mara-\\nthon\\n261", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThe mountains look on Marathon,\\nAnd Marathon looks on the sea,\\nAnd musing there an hour alone,\\nI dreamed that Greece might still be free:\\nFor standing by the Persian s grave,\\nI could not deem myself a slave!\\nMarathon is only a vast plain, but what a\\nplain It has only a small mound in the\\ncentre to break its smoothness, but what\\ncourage, what patriotism, what nobility that\\nmound covers It was there, many authori-\\nties say, that all the Athenians were buried\\nwho fell at Marathon, although Byron claims\\nthat it covers the Persian dead.\\nHow Greece has always loved freedom!\\nIn the Ecole Polytechnique are three Turk-\\nish battle-Hags and some shells and cannon-\\nballs from a war so recent that the flags have\\nscarcely had time to dry or the shells to cool.\\nWhat a pity, what an unspeakable pity, that\\nall the glory of Greece lies in the past, and\\nthat the time of her power has gone forever\\n^Nothing but her brave, undaunted spirit re-\\nmains, and never can she live again the\\nglories of her Salamis, her Marathon, her\\nThermopylse.\\nWe have seen Athens in all her guises, the\\nAcropolis in all her moods, at sunrise, in a\\nthunder-storm, in the glare of mid-day, at\\nsunset, and yet we saved the best for the\\nclimax. On the last night we were in Ath-\\n262", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "AS SEEX BY ME\\nens we saw the Acropolis by moonlight. We\\nnearly upset the whole Greek government to\\naccomplish this, for the King has issued an\\nedict that only one night in the month may\\nvisitors be admitted, and that is the night of\\nthe full moon. But I had returned to Ath-\\nens with this one idea in my mind, and if I\\nhad been obliged to go to the King myself I\\nwould have done so, and I know that I would\\nhave come away victorious. lie never could\\nhave had the heart to refuse me.\\nIt is impossible. I utterly abandon the\\nidea of making even my nearest and dearest\\nsee what I saw and hear what I heard and\\nthink what I tliought on that matchless night.\\nThere was just a breath of wind. The moun-\\ntains and hills rose all around us, Lykabet-\\ntos, Kolonos the home of Sophocles Hy-\\nmettos, and Pentelikon with its marble quar-\\nries, made an undulating line of gra}^\\nagainst the horizon, while away at the left\\nwas the Hill of Mars. Hoav still it was!\\nHow wonderful The rows of lights from\\nthe city converged towards the foot of the\\nAcropolis like the topaz rays in a queen s\\ndiadem. The blue waters of the harbor glit-\\ntered in the pale light. A chime of bells\\nrang out the hour, coming faintly up to\\nus like an echo. And above us, bathed,\\nshrouded, swimming in silver light, was\\nthe Parthenon. The only flowers that grow\\n263", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nat the foot of the Parthenon are the mar-\\nguerites, the white-petalecl, golden-hearted\\ndaisies, and even in the moonlight these star-\\nry flowers bend their tender gaze upon their\\ngod.\\nI leaned against one of the caryatides of\\nthe Erechtheion and looked beyond the Par-\\nthenon to the Hill of Mars, where Paul\\npreached to the Athenians, and I believe\\nthat he mnst have seen the Acropolis by\\nmoonlight when he wrote, Wherefore, when\\nwe could no longer forbear, we thought it\\ngood to be left in Athens alone\\nWhat a week we have had in Athens If I\\nwere obliged to go home to-morrow, if\\nGreece ended Europe for me, I could go\\nhome satisfied, filled too full of bliss to com-\\nplain or even to tell what I felt. I have lived\\nout the fullest enjoyment of my soul; I have\\nreached the limit of my heart s desire. Ath-\\nens is the goddess of my idolatry. I have\\nturned pagan and worshipped.\\nIn all my travels I have divided individ-\\nual trips into two classes those which\\nwould make ideal wedding journeys and\\nthose which would not. But the greatest\\ndifficulty I have encountered is how to get\\nmy happy wedded pair over here in order\\nto he gin. I have not the heart to ask them\\nto risk their happiness by crossing the ocean,\\nfor the Atlantic, even by the best of ships,\\n264", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nis ground for divorce (if you go deep\\nenough) in itself. I have not yet tried the\\nPacific, but I am told that, like most people\\nwho are named Theodosia and Constance\\nand Winifred, the Pacific does not live up\\nto its name. However, if I could transport\\nmy people, chloroformed and by rapid tran-\\nsit, to Greece, I would beg of them to journey\\nfrom Athens to Patras by rail; and if that\\nexquisite experience did not smooth away all\\ntrifling difficulties and make each wish to be\\nthe one to apologize first, then I would mark\\nthem as doomed from the beginning, by their\\nown insensate and unappreciative natures,\\nas destined to finish their honeymoon by\\nseparate maintenance and alimony.\\nHow I hate descriptions of scenery! How\\nmurderous I feel when the conventional\\nnovelist interrupts the most impassioned\\nlove-scene to tell how the moonlight filtered\\nthrough the ragged clouds, or how the wind\\nsighed through the naked branches of the\\ntrees, just as if anybody cared what nature\\nwas doing when human nature held the\\nstage And yet so marvellous is the fas-\\ncination of Greece, so captivating the scenes\\nwhich meet the eye from the uninviting win-\\ndow of a plain little foreign railroad train,\\nthat I cannot forbear to risk similar maledic-\\ntions by saying that it is too heavenly for\\ncommon v/ords to express.\\n265", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "xiS SEEN BY ME\\njSTow, I abominate railroads and I loathe\\nsliips. The only things I reallv enjoy are a\\nrocking-chair and a book. But mnch as I\\ndetest the smell of car-smoke, and to find my\\nface spotted with soot, and ill as it makes me\\nto ride backward, I would willingly travel\\nevery month of the year over the road from\\nAthens to Patras. The mountains are not\\nso high as to startle, the gulf not so vast as\\nto shock. But with gentleness you are\\ndra wn more and more into the net of its fas-\\ncination until the tears well to your eyes and\\nthere is a positive physical ache in your\\nheart.\\nGreece is considerate. I have seen land-\\nscapes so continuously and overpoweringly\\nbeautiful that they bored me. I know how\\nto sympatize with Alfred Yargrave when he\\nsays to the Due de Luvois\\nNature is liere too pretentious lier mien\\nIs too haughty. One likes to be coaxed, not com-\\npelled,\\nTo the notice such beauty resents if withheld.\\nShe seems to be saying too plainly, Admire me;*\\nAnd I answer, Yes, madam, 1 do but you tire\\nme.\\nl^ot SO with Greece, for when you become\\nalmost intoxicated with her wonderful blues\\nand greens and purples, and you move your\\nhead restlessly and beg a breathing-space,\\nshe compassionately recognizes your mood\\n266", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nand lowers a silver veil over her brilliant\\nbeauty, so that you see her through a gauzy\\nmist, which presently tantalizes you into\\nblinking your tired eyes and wondering what\\nshe is so deftly concealing. It is like the\\nfeeling which assails you when you see a\\nveiled statue. You long for the sculptor to\\nchisel away the marble gauze and reveal the\\nfeatures. And when the craving becomes\\nintolerable, lo! Greece, the past mistress of\\nthe art of beauty, grants your desire, and\\nwith the regal gift of a goddess brings your\\nsoul into its fruition. Cleopatra would\\nhave tantalized and left your heart to eat\\nitself out in hopeless longing. But Cleo-\\npatra was only a queen; Venus was a god-\\ndess.\\nI^ames which were but names to you be-\\nfore become living realities now. We are\\ncrossing the Attic plain, and from that we\\nfind ourselves in the Thracian plain. What\\n^irl has not heard her brother spout concern-\\ning these names, famous in Greek history?\\nThen we are in Megara, on the lovely blue\\nBay of SalamJs. From Megara the Bay of\\nSalamis becomes Saronic Gulf, and after\\nan hour or two of its unspeakable beauty\\nwe cross over to Corinth and find, if possible,\\nthat the blues of the Gulf of Corinth are\\neven more sapphire, that its purples are\\neven more amethyst, that its greens are more\\n267", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nemerald than the blues and purples and\\ngreens of Salamis.\\nFrom Corinth the road skirts the sea, and\\nall these white plains are devoted to the dry-\\ning of currants. At Sikyon, called cu-\\ncumber town/ but originally, with the mys-\\ntic beauty of the ancient Greeks, called\\npoppy town, the American school at\\nAthens has made some wonderful excava-\\ntions. It has discovered the supports of\\nthe stage of the famous theatre there. Then,\\nstill with the sea before us, we are at Aegi-\\num, a name full of memories of ancient\\nGreece. It has olive, currant, grape, and\\nmulberry plantations, and lies shrouded an l\\nbedded in beauty and romance. There, over\\na high iron bridge, we cross a rushing moun-\\ntain torrent and are at Patras, in the moon-\\nlight, with our big ship waiting to take us\\nacross the Adriatic Sea to Brindisi.\\nIt was with real pain that we left Greece.\\nI would like to go back to-morrow. But\\nthere were reasons for i^eaching Italy with-\\nout further delay, and we hurried through\\nCorfu with only a day there to see its loveli-\\nness, instead of a week, as we would have\\nliked. The Empress of Austria s villa lies\\ntucked up on a hill-side, in a mass of orange,\\nlemon, cypress, and magnolia trees. Such\\nan enchanting picture as it presents, and such\\nwonderful beaut v as it encloses. But all\\n268", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthat is modern. What fascinates me in Cor-\\nfu is that opposite the entrance to the ohl\\nI-Iyllican harbor lies the isle of Pontikonisi\\n(Mouse Island), with a small chapel and\\nclergy-house. Tradition says that it is the\\nPh^acian ship which brought Ulysses to\\nIthaka, and which was afterwards turned into\\nstone by the angry Poseidon (Neptune).\\nThe brook Kressida at the point where it en-\\nters the lake is also pointed out as the spot\\nwhere Ulysses was cast ashore and met the\\nPrincess Nausicaa. A seasick sort of name,\\nthat\\nI feel an inexplicable delight in letting\\nmy imagination run riot in the Greek tra-\\nditions of their gods and goddesses. Their\\nheroes are more real to me than Caesar and\\nXerxes and Alexander. And Hermes and\\nVenus and the dwellers of Olympus have\\nbeen such intimate friends since my child-\\nhood that the scenes of their exploits are of\\nmuch more moment to me than Waterloo and\\nAusterlitz. I cannot forbear laughing at\\nmyself, however, for my holy rage over\\nGreek mythology, as founded upon no bet-\\nter ground than that upon which Mark\\nTwain apologized for his admiration for\\nPenimore Cooper s Indians, for he admitted\\nthat they were a defunct race of beings\\nwhich never had existed\\nWe arrived at Brindisi at four o clock in\\n269", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe morning. Brindisi at four o clock in\\nthe morning is not pleasant, nor would any\\nother city be on the face of this green foot-\\nstool. We were in quarantine, and we had\\nto cope with a cross stewardess, who declared\\nthat we demanded too much service, and that\\nshe would not bring us our coffee in bed, and\\nwho then went and did it like an angel, so\\nthat we patted her on the back and told her\\nin French that she was well amiable, al-\\nthough at that hour in the morning we would\\nhave preferred to throttle her for her imper-\\ntinence, and then to throw her in the Adri-\\natic Sea as a neat little finish. Such, how-\\never, is our diplomatic course of travel.\\nWe walked in line under the doctor s eye,\\nand he pronounced us sanitary and permitted\\nus to land. We were four hours late, but\\nwe scalded ourselves with a second cup of\\ncoffee and tried for the six-o clock train for\\nN aples, missed it, sent a telegram to Cook\\nto send our letters to the train to meet us,\\nand then went back to the ship to endure with\\npatience and commendable fortitude the jeers\\nof our felloAv-passengers. Virtue was its\\nown reward, however, for soon, under the\\nrays of the rising sun, which we did not get\\nup to see, and did not want to see, there\\nsteamed into the harbor alongside of us\\nthe P. O. ship Sutly, six hours ahead of\\ntime (did you ever hear of such a thing?),\\n270", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbearing our belated friends, the Jimmies,\\nfrom Alexandria. They had been booked\\nfor the China, Avhich was wrecked, so the\\nSidly took her passengers. The Jimmies\\nhad bought their passage for Venice, but\\nwe teased them to throw it up and come with\\nus, and such is our fascination that they\\nyielded. The love which reaches the purse\\nis love indeed. So in a fever of joy we all\\ncaught the nine-o clock train for Naples.\\nThey have a sweet little way on Italian\\nrailroads of making no provision for you to\\neat. We did not know this, and our knowl-\\nedge of Italian was limited to Quanta tem-\\npo f (How much time?) and Quanta costaf\\n(How much is it?) So we punctuated the\\nlovely journey among the Italian hills, and\\nbetween their admirable waterways, by hop-\\nping off the train for coffee every time they\\nsaid Cinque minuti. It was like a pic-\\nnic train. Half the passengers were from\\nthe P. O., and knew the Jimmies, and\\nthe other half were from our Austrian Lloyd,\\nand knew us, so it was perfectly delicious\\nto see every compartment door fly open and\\neverybody s friend appear with tea-kettles\\nfor hot water in one hand and tea-caddies\\nin the other, and to see people who hated\\nboiled eggs buying them, because they were\\nabout all that looked clean; and to see staid\\nEnglishmen in knickerbockers and monocles\\n271", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwith loops of Italian bread over each tweed\\narm, and in both hands flasks of cheap red\\nItalian wine oh, so good! and only cost-\\ning fifty centimes, bnt pnt np in those\\nlovely straw-woven decanters which cost ns\\na real pang to fling out of the window after\\nthey were emptied. And it was anything\\nbut conventional to hear one friend shout\\nto another, Don t pay a lira for those man-\\ndarins; I got twice that many from this pi-\\nrate 1 And then the five minutes would be\\nup, and the guard would come along and call\\nPronto, which is much prettier than All\\naboard, but which means about the same\\nthing; and then two ear-splitting whistles\\nand a jangling of bells, and the doors would\\nslam, and we were off again.\\nIt was moonlight when we skirted the Bay\\nof Naples the same moonlight which light-\\ned the Acropolis for us at Athens-, which shed\\nits silver loveliness upon the Adriatic Sea,\\nwhere we had no one whose soul shared its\\nbeauty with us, and which we found again\\nglittering upon the Bay of Naples. We stood\\nat the car-window and watched it for an hour,\\nfor all that time our train was winding its\\nway around the shore into Naples.\\nThat curve of the shore, that sheet of rip-\\npling sapphire, the glint of the moon on the\\nwater, the train trailing its slow length\\naround the bay, are associated in my mind\\n272", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwith one of those emotional upheavals which\\ntravellers must often experience in passing\\nfrom one phase of civilization to another.\\nIt marks one of the mile-stones in my inner\\nlife. I was leaving the East, the pagan East,\\nwith its mysterious influence, and I was get-\\nting back to Cooks tourists and Italy. My\\nmind was in a whirl. Which was best\\nWhy should I so love one, and why did the\\nother bore me? I was afraid to follow the\\nyearnings of my OAvn soul, and yet I knew\\nthat only there lay happiness. To make up\\none s mind to be true to one s love even if it\\nbe only the love of beauty requires courage.\\nAnd the trial of my bravery came to me on\\nthat curve of the Bay of N aples. I dared. I\\nam daring now. I am still true to the Orient.\\nAs I look back I remember that the phrase,\\nSee Naples and die, gave me the hazy idea\\nthat it must be very beautiful, but just* how\\nI did not know, and did not particularly care.\\nI knew the bay would be lovely I only hoped\\nit would be as lovely as I expected. Cele-\\nbrated beauties are so apt to be disappoint-\\ning. I imagined that all Neapolitan boys\\nwore their shirt-collars open and that a wavy\\nlock of coal-black hair was continually blow-\\ning across their brown foreheads. That\\neternal porcelain miniature has maddened\\nme with its omnipresence ever since I was a\\nchild. But aside from these half thoughts\\ns 273", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nand dim expectations I had no hopes at all.\\nI was prepared to be gently and tranquilly\\npleased; not wildly excited, bnt satisfied;\\nnot happy, bnt contented with its beanty.\\nBut I have found more. The bay is more\\nlovely than I anticipated, and I have discov-\\nered that Italian hair is not coal-black it be-\\ngins to be black at the roots, and evidently had\\nevery intention of being black when it start-\\ned out, but it grew weary of so much energy,\\nand ended in sundry shades of russet\\nbrown and sunburned tans. It generally\\nhas these two colors, black and tan, like the\\nsilky coat of a fine terrier, and it waves in\\nlovely little tendrils, and is much prettier\\nthan hair either all black or all brown.\\nBut I am ahead of my narrative. I am\\ntrying to decide whether ^N aples is more\\nbeautifully situated than Constantinople.\\nConstantinople, being Oriental, fascinates me\\nmore. Western Europe begins to seem a lit-\\ntle tame and conventional to me, because the\\npagan in my nature is so highly developed. I\\ndetest civilization except for my own selfish\\nbodily comfort. When I eat and sleep I\\nwant the creature comforts. Otherwise I\\nlove those thieving Arab servants in Cairo\\n(who would steal the very shoes off your feet\\nif you dropped off for your forty winks) be-\\ncause of their uncivilization and unconven-\\ntionality. Civilization has not yet spoiled\\n274", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthem. I bought rugs in Cairo, and often\\nwhen I went unexpectedly into my room I\\nfound my Arab man servant on his knees\\nstudying their patterns and feeling their\\nsilkiness. I had everything locked up, or\\nperhaps he would have made worse use of his\\ntime; but somehow the childishness of the\\nEast appeals to me.\\nConstantinople is so delightfully dirty and\\nold. Mrs. Jimmie sniffs at me because I can\\nstop the peasants who lead their cows through\\nthe streets of Naples, and because I can drink\\na glass of warm milk Mrs. Jimmie wants\\nhers strained. But if I can eat Turkish\\nDelight in Constantinople, buying it in the\\nbazaars, seeing it cut off the huge sticky mass\\nwitli rusty lamp-scissors, perhaps dropped on\\nthe dirt-floor, and in a moment of abstraction\\npolished off on the Turk s trousers and rolled\\nin soft sugar to wrap the real in the ideal\\nif I can cope with that problem, surely a trifle\\nlike drinking unstrained milk, with the con-\\nsoling satisfaction of stopping the carriage in\\nan adorable spot, with the blue waters of the\\nbay curling up on its shore down below on\\nthe right, and a sheer cliff covered with moss\\nand clinging vines and surmounted by a su-\\nperb villa on the left, is nothing. For to eat\\nor to drink amid such romantic surroundings,\\neven if it were unstrained milk, was an expe-\\nrience not to be despised.\\n275", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nYet here are two cities situated like amplii-\\ntheatres upon the convex curve of two ideally\\nbeautiful harbors. How do you compare\\nthem Each according to your own temper\\nand humor. You have seen hundreds of col-\\nored photographs both of ^N aples and Con-\\nstantinople. But of the two you will find\\nonly Naples exactly like the pictures. Ev-\\nerybody agrees about Naples. People dis-\\nagree delightfully about Constantinople.\\nSome can never get beyond the dirt and\\nsmells and thievery. Some never get used\\nto the delicious thrills of surprise which ev-\\nery turn and every corner and every vista\\nand every night and every morning hold for\\nthe beauty-lover. Nothing could be more\\nheterodox, more bizarre, more unconven-\\ntional than Constantinople scenes. Noth-\\ning could be more orthodox than the views\\nof Naples. To be sure, poets have written\\nreams of poetry about it, travellers have sent\\nhome pages of rhapsodies about it, tourists\\nhave conscientiously done the town, with\\ntheir heads cocked on one side and their fore-\\nfingers on a paragraph in Baedeker but just\\nbecause of this, because everybody on earth\\nwho ever has been to Naples man or wom-\\nan, Jew or Gentile, black or white, bond\\nor free- has wept and gurgled and had hys-\\nteria over its mild and placid beauty, is one\\nreason why I find it somewhat tame. Italian\\n276", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nscenery seems to me laid out by a landscape-\\ngardener. Its beauty is absolutely conven-\\ntional. Kobody will blame you if you ad-\\nmire it. To rave over it is like going to\\nchurch it is the proper thing to do. People\\nwill raise their eyebrows if you don t, and\\nwatch what you eat, and speculate on your\\nancestry, and wonder about your politics.\\nThe beauty of Italy is so proper and\\nChurch of England that you are looked upon\\nas a dissenter if you do not rhapsodize about\\nit. But it disappoints me to feel obliged to\\nfollow the multitude like a flock of sheep and\\nto take the dust of those feeble-minded tour-\\nists wdio have preceded me and set the pace.\\nThere is nothing in the scenery of all Italy\\nto shock your love of beauty from the staid\\nto the original. There is nothing to give\\nyour sensitive soul little shivers of surprise.\\nThere is nothing to make you hesitate for fear\\nyou ought not to admire; you hiotu you\\nought. You feel obliged to do so because ev-\\nerybody has done it before you, and you will\\nbe thought queer if you don t. There is a\\ngentle, pretty pretty haze of romance over\\nItalian scenery which is like reading fairy-\\ntales after having devoured Carlyle. It is\\nlike hearing Yerdi after Wagner. The East\\nhas my real love. I find that I cannot rave\\nover a pink and white china shepherdess\\nwhen I have worshipped the Yenus of Milo.\\n277", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "XIII\\nNAPLES\\nThe point of view is always the pivot of\\nrecollection. How ought one to remember\\na place There are a dozen ways of enjoy-\\ning ISTaples, and twenty ways of being miser-\\nable in America. Or turn it the other way,\\nit makes no difference. It depends upon\\none s self and the state of the spleen. Be-\\nfore I came to Europe I remember often to\\nhave been disgusted with persons who re-\\ncalled Germany by its beer and Spain by its\\nfleas, or those who said Cologne Oh yes\\nI remember we got such a good breakfast\\nthere.^\\nAh, ha It is so easy to sniff when one is\\nmooning in imagination over cathedrals, but\\nI have since taken back all those sniffs. I\\ndid not realize then the misery of standing\\non one foot all the morning in tombs, and\\non the other all the afternoon in museums,\\nand then of going home to sleep on an iron-\\ning-board. Now I, too, think gratefully of\\nthe Bay of E aples as being near that good\\n278", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbed, and of the Pyramids as being near the\\nexcellent table of Shepheard s. Why not?\\nCan one rave over Vesnvius on an empty\\nstomach, or get all the beauty out of Sor-\\nrento with a backache One must be well\\nand have good spirits when one travels. It is\\nnot so essential merely to be comfortable, al-\\nthough that helps wonderfully. But even to\\nget soaking wet could not utterly spoil the\\nroad to Posilipo. What a heavenly drive!\\nAlthough I think with more fondness of scal-\\ning the heights of Capri in a trembling little\\nItalian cab, not because both views were not\\ndivinely beautiful, but because when in\\nCapri my clothes were not damply sticking\\nto me, and I had no puddle of water in each\\nshoe. As I look back I believe I could write\\nspecific directions from personal experience\\non How to be Happy when Miserable.\\nJimmie always bewails the fact that the\\nAmerican girl lives on her nerves. Goes\\non her uppers is his choice phrase. E ever-\\ntheless, it pulled us through many a mental\\nbog while travelling so continuously.\\nTherefore, from a dozen different recol-\\nlections of N aples, eleven of which you may\\nread in your red-covered Baedeker, or Recol-\\nlections of Italy, or Leaves from my Note-\\nBooh, or Memories of Blissful Hours, and\\nsimilar productions, I have most poignantly\\nto remember our shopping experiences in\\n279", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\n^Naples. But before laiincliing my battle-\\nship I owe an apology to the worshippers of\\nItaly. I can appreciate their rapturous\\nmemories. I share in a measure their en-\\nthusiasm. To a certain temper Italy would\\nbe adorable for a honeymoon or to return\\nto a second or a fifth time. But it is not in\\nhuman nature, after having come from Rus-\\nsia, Egypt, and Greece, to have one s pristine\\nenthusiasm to pour out in torrents over the\\nladylike beauty of Italy, because these other\\ncountries are so much more unfrequented,\\nmore pagan, and more fascinating. But in\\ndaring to say that, I again pull my forelock\\nto Italy s worshippers.\\nTo begin with, we were robbed all through\\nItaly; not robbed, in a common way, but, to\\nthe honor of the Italians let me say, robbed\\nin a highly interesting and somewhat ex-\\nciting manner.\\nSomebody has said, What a beautiful\\ncountry Italy would be if it were not for the\\nItalians T We are used to having our things\\nstolen, and to being overcharged for every-\\nthing just because we are Americans, but we\\nare not used to the utter brigandage of Italy.\\nOn the Russian ship coming from Odessa to\\nConstantinople some of the second-cabin pas-\\nsengers got into our state-rooms during din-\\nner and went through our hand-baggage,\\nwhich we had left unlocked, and stole my\\n280", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nulster. And, of course, in Constantinople\\nthey warned ns not to trust the Greeks, for\\nit is their form of comparison to say, He\\nlies like a Greek, while in Greece the worst\\nthing they can say is that He steals like a\\nTurk. In Cairo it Avas not necessary to\\nwarn us, for everybody knows what liars and\\nthieves Arabs are. Not a day went by on\\nthose donkey excursions on the Xile that the\\nmen did not have their pockets picked. The\\npassengers on the Mayflower lost enough silk\\nhandkerchiefs to start a haberdasher s shop,\\nand every woman lost money. In Cairo,\\nwhether you go to the bazaars or to a mosque\\nto see the faithful at their prayers, your\\ndragoman tells you not to have anything of\\nvalue in your pockets, and not to carry your\\npurse in your hand.\\nBut w^e had not even got through the cus-\\ntom-house at Brindisi, when Gaze s man\\nrecommended us to have our trunks corded\\nand sealed, for they are sometimes broken\\nopen on the train. We thought this rather\\na useless precaution, but Jimmie has travel-\\nled so much that he made us do it. It seems\\nthat the King has admitted that he is power-\\nless to stop these outrages, and so he begs\\nforeign travellers to protect themselves, inas-\\nmuch as he is unable to protect them.\\nWe stayed at the smartest hotel in Naples,\\nbut Ave had not been there two days before\\n281.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nJimmie s valises were broken opeiij and all\\nhis studs and forty pounds in money were\\nstolen. That frightened us almost to death,\\nbut something worse happened. One day at\\nthree o clock in the afternoon my companion\\nwas sitting in her room writing a letter, and\\nshe happened to look up just in time to see\\nthe handle of the door turn slowly and softly.\\nThen the door opened a crack, still with-\\nout a sound, and a man with a black beard\\nput in his head. As he met her eyes fixed\\nsquarely upon him he closed the door as\\nsilently as a shadow. She hurried after him\\nand looked out, and ran up the corridor peer-\\ning into every possible corner, but no man\\ncould she see. He had disappeared as com-\\npletely as if he had been a ghost. She re-\\nported it to the proprietor, but he shrugged\\nhis shoulders, and said, Madam must have\\nimagined it\\nBy this time we were all feeling rather\\ncreepy. However, as Jimmie says when we\\nare all tired out and hungry and cross,\\nCheer up. The worst is yet to come.\\nOne day my companion and Mrs. Jimmie\\nand I went to one of the best shops in all\\nItaly, to buy a ring. Mrs. Jimmie was get-\\nting it for her husband s birthday.\\nISTow, Mrs. Jimmie s own rings are ex-\\ntremely beautiful, and her very handsomest\\nconsists of a band of blue-white matched dia-\\n282", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nmonds which exactly fills the space between\\nher two fingers, and is so heavy and so fine\\nthat only Tiffany could duplicate it. The\\nband of the ring is merely a fine wire. To\\ntry on Jimmie s ring, Mrs. Jimmie took off\\nall hers and laid them on the counter. E^ow,\\nmind you, this was a famous jeweller s where\\nthis happened. But when she had decided\\nto take the new ring, and turned to put on\\nher own again, lo this especial ring was gone.\\nWe searched everywhere. We told the clerk,\\nbut he said she had not worn such a ring.\\nThis was the first thing which made us sus-\\npect that something was wrong. We insisted,\\nand he .reiterated. Finally, I made up my\\nmind. I said to my companion You stand\\nat the front door and have Mrs. Jimmie\\nstand at the side door. Don t you permit\\nany one either to enter or leave, while I rush\\naround to Cook s office and find out what can\\nbe done. Both women turned pale, but\\nobeyed me. One clerk started for the back\\ndoor, but we called him and told him that\\nno one was to move until we could get the\\npolice there. Then such a scurrying and such\\na begging as there was! Would madam\\nwait just one moment Would madam per-\\nmit them to call the proprietor (Anybody\\nwould have thought it was my ring, for Mrs.\\nJimmie s calm was not even ruffled, while I\\nwas in a white heat, and all their impassion-\\n283", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "ASSEENBYME\\ned appeals were addressed to me!) I said\\nthey could call the proprietor if they conld\\ncall him without leaving the room. They\\ncalled him in Italian. He came, a little,\\nsmooth, brown man, with black, shoe-button\\neyes. We explained to him just what had\\ntaken place, Mrs. Jimmie with her back\\nagainst one door, and my companion braced\\nagainst the side door, like Ajax defying the\\nlightning.\\nHe rubbed his hands, and listened to a\\ntorrent of excited Italian from no fewer than\\nten crazy clerks. Then I stated the case in\\nEnglish. The proprietor turned to Mrs.\\nJimmie, and said if madam was so sure that\\nshe had worn a ring, which all his clerks as-\\nsured him she had not worn, then, for the\\nhonor of his house, he must beg madam to\\nchoose another ring, of whatever value she\\nliked, and it should be a present from him\\nI^ow, Mrs. Jimmie is a very Madonna of\\ncalmness, but at that she ignited. She told\\nhim that Tiffany had been six months match-\\ning those stones, and that not in all his shop\\nnot in the whole of Italy could he find\\na duplicate. At that another search took\\nplace, and I, just to make things pleasant,\\nstarted for the American ambassador s. (I\\nhad risen a peg from Cook s!) Such plead-\\ning Such begging Two of the clerks act-\\nually wept Italian tears. When lo a shout\\n284", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof triumph, and from a remote corner of the\\nshop, quite forty feet from us, in a place\\nwhere we had not been, under a big vase, they\\nfound that ring If it had had the wings of\\na swallow it could not have flown there. If\\nit had had the legs of a centipede it could\\nnot have crawled there. The proprietor was\\nradiant in his unctuous satisfaction. It\\nhad rolled there Kolled That ring! It\\nhad no more chance of rolling than a loaded\\ndie We all sniffed, and sniffed publicly.\\nMrs. Jimmie, I regret to say, was weak\\nenough to buy the ring she had ordered for\\nJimmie in spite of this occurrence. But I\\nthink I don t blame her. I am weak myself\\nabout buying things. But that is a sample\\nof Italian honesty, and in a shop which would\\nrank with our very best in New York or Chi-\\ncago. Heaven help Italy\\nItalian politeness is very cheap, very thin-\\nskinned, and, like the French, only for the\\nsurface. They pretend to trust you with\\ntheir whole shop; they shower you with po-\\nlite attentions; you are the Great and Only\\nwhile you are buying. But I am of the opin-\\nion that you are shadowed by a whole army\\nof spies if you owe a cent, and that for lack\\nof plenty of suspicion and prompt action to\\nrecover I am sure that neither the Italians\\nnor the French ever lost a sou.\\nWe went into the best tortoise-shell shop\\n285", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY HE\\nin all Naples to buy one dozen sliell liair-pins,\\nbut such was the misery we experienced at\\nleaving any of the treasures we encountered\\nthat we bought three hundred dollars worth\\nbefore we left, and of course did not have\\nenough money to pay for them. So we said\\nto lay the things aside for us, and we would\\ndraw some money at our banker s, and pay\\nfor them when we came to fetch them.\\nNot for the world, declared this Judas Is-\\ncariot, this Benedict Arnold of an Italian\\nJew We must take the things with us. Were\\nwe not Americans, and by Americans did he\\nnot live Behold, he would take the articles\\nwith his own hands to our carriage. And he\\ndid, despite our protests. But the villain\\ndrew on us through our banker before we\\nwere out of bed the next morning! I felt\\nlike a horse-thief.\\nHowever, I confess to a weakness for the\\noverwhelmingly polite attentions one receives\\nfrom Italian and French shopkeepers. One\\ngets none of it in Germany, and in America\\nI am always under the deepest obligations\\nif the haughty sales-ladies and sales-gen-\\ntlemen will wait on the men and women\\nwho wish to buy. I am accustomed to the\\nignominy of being ignored, and to the in-\\nsult of impudence if I protest but why, oh,\\nwhy, do politeness and honesty so seldom go\\ntogether\\n286", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nThere is a decency about Puritan Ameri-\\nca which appeals to me quite as much as the\\nrugged honesty of American shopkeepers.\\nThe unspeakable street scenes of Europe\\nwould be impossible in America. In ^N^aples\\nall the mysteries of the toilet are in certain\\nquarters of the city public property, and the\\ndressing-room of children in particular is\\nbounded by north, east, south, and west, and\\nroofed by the sky.\\nI have seen Italians comb their beards over\\ntheir soup at dinner. I have seen every\\nFrenchman his own manicure at the opera.\\nI have seen Germans take out their false\\nteeth at the table d hote and rinse them\\nin a glass of w^ater, but it remains for ISTa-\\nples to cap the climax for Sunday-afternoon\\ndiversions.\\nA curious thing about European decency is\\nthat it seems to be forced on people by law,\\nand indulged in only for show. The Gallic\\nnations are only veneered with decency.\\nThey have, almost to a man, none of it nat-\\nurally, or for its own sake. Take, for ex-\\nample, the sidewalks of Paris after dark.\\nThe moment public surveillance wanes or\\nthe sun goes down the Frenchman becomes\\nhis own natural self.\\nThe Neapolitan s acceptation of dirt as\\na portion of his inheritance is irresistibly\\ncomic to a pagan outsider. To drive down\\n287", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthe Via di Porto is to see a mimic world.\\nAll the shops empty themselves into the\\nstreet. They leave only room for your cab\\nto drive through the maze of stalls, booths,\\nchairs, beds, and benches. At nightfall they\\nlight flaring torches, which, viewed from the\\ntop of the street, make the descent look like\\na witch scene from an opera.\\nIt is the street of the very poor, but one\\nis struck by the excellent diet of these same\\nvery poor. They eat as a staple roasted arti-\\nchokes a great delicacy with us. They\\ncook macaroni with tomatoes in huge iron\\nkettles over charcoal fires, and sell it by the\\nplateful to their customers, often hauling it\\nout of the kettles with their hands, like a\\nsailor s hornpipe, pinching off the macaroni\\nif it lengthens too much, and blowing on their\\nfingers to cool them. They have roasted\\nchestnuts, fried fish, boiled eggs, and long\\nloops of crisp Italian bread strung on a\\nstake. There are scores of these booths in\\nthis street, the selling conducted generally\\nby the father and grown sons, while the wife\\nsits by knitting in the smoke and glare of\\nthe torches, screaming in peasant Italian to\\nher neighbor across the way, commenting\\nquite openly upon the people in the cabs, and\\nwondering how much their hats cost. The\\nbambinos are often hung upon pegs in the\\nfront of the house, where they look out of\\n288", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\ntheir little black, beady eyes like pappooses.\\nI unhooked one of these babies once, and held\\nit awhile. Its back and little feet were held\\ntightly against a strip of board so that it\\nwas quite stiff from its feet to its shoulders.\\nIt did not seem to object or to be at all un-\\ncomfortable, and as it only hoAvled while I\\nwas holding it I have an idea that, except\\nwhen invaded by foreigners, the bambino s\\nexistence is quite happy. Babies seem to be\\nno trouble in Italy, and one cannot but be\\nstruck by the number of them. One can\\nhardly remember seeing many French babies,\\nfor the reason that there are so few to remem-\\nber so few, indeed, that the French govern-\\nment has put a premium upon them; but in\\nNaples the pretty mothers with their pretty\\nbabies, playing at bo-peep with each other\\nlike charming children, are some of the most\\ndelightful scenes in this fascinating Street of\\nthe Door.\\nThese bambinos hooked against the wall\\nlook down upon curious scenes. Their moth-\\ners bring their wash-tubs into the street,\\nwash the clothes in plain view of everybody,\\nhang them on clothes-lines strung between\\ntwo chairs, while a diminutive charcoal-stove,\\nwith half a dozen irons leaning against its\\nsides, stands in the doorway ready to perform\\nits part in the little scene. I saw a boy cook-\\ning two tinv smelts over a tailor s goose. The\\nT 289", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nhandle was taken off, and the fish were fry-\\ning so merrily over the glowing coals, and\\nthey looked so good, and the odor which\\nsteamed from them Avas so ravishing, that I\\nwanted to ask him if I might not join him\\nand help him cook two more.\\nIn point of fact, iTaples seems like a holi-\\nday town, with everybody merely playing at\\nwork, or resting from even that pretence.\\nThe ^Neapolitans are so essentially an out-of-\\ndoor people and a leisurely people that it\\nseems a crime to hurry. The very goats wan-\\ndering aimlessly through the streets, nibbling\\naround open doorways, add an element of\\nimbecile helplessness to a childish people.\\nDid you ever examine a goat s expression\\nof face For utter asininity a donkey can-\\nnot approach him. ^Nothing can, except, per-\\nhaps, an Irish farce-comedian.\\nBeautiful cows are driven through the\\nstreets, often attended by the owner s family.\\nThe mother milks for the passing customers,\\nthe father fetches it all lovely and foam-\\ning and warm to your cab, and the pretty,\\nbig-eyed children caper around you, beg-\\nging for a macaroni instead of a pour-\\nboire.\\nThen, instead of dining at your smart hotel,\\nit is so much more adorable to drop in at\\nsome charming restaurant with tables set in\\nthe open air, and to hear the band play, and\\n290", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nto eat all sorts of delicious unknowable\\ndishes, and to drink a beautiful golden wine\\ncalled Laclirima Christi (the tears of\\nChrist), and to watch the people the people\\nthe people", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "XIV\\nROME\\nOn Easter Sunday I had my first view of\\nRome, my first view of St. Peter s. The day\\nwas as soft and mild as one of our own spring\\ndays, and there was even that little sharp\\ntang in the air which one feels in the early\\nspring in America. The wind was sweet and\\nbalmy, yet now and. then it had a sharp edge\\nto it as it cut around a curve, as if to remind\\none that the frost was not yet all out of the\\nground, and that the sun was still only the\\nheir-apparent to the throne and had not yet\\nbeen crowned king. It was the sort of day\\nthat one has at home a little later, when one\\nstill likes the feel of the fur around the neck,\\nwhile the trees are still bare, when the eager\\nspring wind brings a tingle to the blood and\\nthe smell of rich, black earth and early green\\nspringing things to the nostrils when the eye\\nis ravished with the sight of purple hyacinths\\nthrusting their royal chalices up through the\\nreluctant soil; when the sun-colored jonquil\\nand the star-eyed narcissus lift their scented\\n292", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nheads above the sombre ground, as if iincon-\\nscioTis of the patches of snow liere and there,\\nforming one of the contradictions of life, but\\na contradiction always welcome, because it is\\nin itself a promise of better things to come.\\nNot in the full fruition of a rose laden\\nJune o] in the golden days of Indian summer\\nor the ruddy autumn or the white holiness of\\nChristmas-tide not in the beauties of the\\nwhole year is there anything so exhilarating,\\nso thrilling, so intoxicating as these first days\\nof spring, which always come with a delicious\\nshock of surprise, before one suspects their\\napproach or has time to grow weary with\\nwaiting. N^othing, nothing in the world\\nsmells like a spring wind It is full of\\nyouth and promise and inspiration. One\\nforgets all the falseness of its promises last\\nyear, all the disappointment of the past sum-\\nmer, and, charged with its bewildering elec-\\ntricity, one builds a thousand air-castles as\\nto what this year will bring forth, based on\\nno surer a foundation than the smell of melt-\\ning snow and fresh black earth and yellow\\nand purple spring flowers which are blown\\nacross one s ever-hopeful soul by a breath of\\neager, tingling spring wind.\\nI shall never forget that first drive in\\nRome on such a day as this, which brought\\nmy own beloved country so forcibly to my\\nmind. There w^ere rumors of war in the\\n203", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nair^ and my heart was heavy for my coimtry,\\nbut I forgot all my forebodings as we drew\\nlip before the majestic steps of St. Peter s,\\nfor I felt that something wonld happen to\\navert disaster from our shores and keep my\\ncountry safe and victorious.\\nSt. Peter s had a curious effect upon me.\\nIt was too big and too secular and too boast-\\nful for a church, too poor in art treasures for\\na successful museum, the music too inade-\\nquate to suit me with the echoes of the Tzar s\\nchoir still ringing in my ears, and the lack of\\npomp compared to the Greek churches left\\nme with a longing to hunt up more gold lace\\nand purple velvet. There was nothing like\\nthe devoutness of the Russians in the wor-\\nshippers I saw in Rome. I stood a long time\\nby the statue of the Pope. His toe was near-\\nly kissed off, but every one carefully wiped\\noff the last kiss before placing his or her own,\\nthereby convincing me of the universal belief\\nin the microbe theory. The whole attitude\\nof the Roman mind is different. Here it is\\na religious duty. In Russia it is a sacra-\\nment.\\nThere were thousands of people in St.\\nPeter s, many of whom the best dressed\\nand the worst behaved were Americans.\\nIt seemed very homelike and intimate to\\nhear my ownTanguage spoken again, even if\\nit were sometimes sadly mutilated. But I\\n294", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nremember St. Peter s that Easter Sunday\\nchiefly because I had with me a sympa-\\nthetic companion; one who knew that St.\\nPeter s was not a place to talk; one who\\nknew enough to absorb in silence; one, in\\nfact, who understood Such comprehen-\\nsive silence was to my ragged spirit balm\\nand healing.\\nBeware, oh, beware with whom you travel\\nOne uncongenial person in the party one\\nman who sneers at sentiment, one woman\\nwhose point of view is material can ruin the\\nloveliest journey and dampen one s heaven-\\nliest enthusiasm.\\nIn order to travel properly, one ought to\\nbe in vein. It is as bad to begin a journey\\nwith a companion who gets on one s nerves\\nas it is to sit down to a banquet and quarrel\\nthrough the courses. The effect is the same.\\nOne can digest neither. People seem to\\nselect travelling companions as recklessly as\\nthey marry. They generally manage to\\nstart with the wrong one. I often shudder\\nto hear two women at a luncheon say, Why\\nnot arrange to go to Europe together next\\nyear? And yet I solace myself with the\\nthought, Why not If you considered\\nyour list of friends for a month, and selected\\nthe most desirable, you would probably make\\neven a worse mistake, for travelling develops\\nhatred more than anv other one thing I know\\n295", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nof; so, in addition to spoiling your journey,\\nyou would also lose your friend or wish you\\ncould lose her!\\nGeorge Eliot has said that there was no\\ngreater strain on friendship than a dissimi-\\nlarity of taste in jests. But I am inclined to\\nbelieve George Eliot never travelled exten-\\nsively, else, without disturbing that state-\\nment, she would have added, or a dissimi-\\nlarity in point of view with one s travelling\\ncompanion.\\nIt makes no difference which one s view\\nis the loftier. It is the dissimilarity which\\nrasps and grates. Doubtless the material is\\nas much irritated by the spiritual as the\\npoetic is fretted by the prosaic. It is worse\\nthan to be at a Wagner matinee with a wom-\\nan who cares only for Verdi. One wishes to\\nnudge her arm and feel a sympathetic press-\\nure which means, Yes, yes, so do I It\\nis awful not to be able to nudge Speech is\\nseldom imperative, but understanding signals\\nis as necessary to one s soul-happiness as air\\nto the lungs. So Greece with one who has\\nbut a Baedeker knowledge of art, or Borne to\\none who remembers her history vaguely as\\nsomething that she took at school, is sim-\\nply maddening to one who forgets the tech-\\nnicalities of dates and formulae, and rapt-\\nurously breathes it in, scarcely knowing\\nwhence came the love or knowledge of it,\\n296", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbut realizing that one has at last come into\\none s kingdom.\\nI was singularly fortunate from time to\\ntime in discovering these kindred, sympa-\\nthetic spirits. I met one party of three\\nin Egypt, and found them again in Greece,\\nand crossed to Italy with them. It was a\\nmother and son and a lovely girl. They will\\nnever know, unless they happen across this\\npage, how much they were to me on the Adri-\\natic, and what a void they filled in Athens.\\nI found another such at Capri and Pom-\\npeii, and those beautiful days stand out in\\nmy mind more for the company I was in\\nthan even the wonders we went to see. That\\nstatement is strong but true. Yet my vari-\\nous other fellow-travellers who were lacking\\nin the one essential of soul would never be-\\nlieve it, inasmuch as a person without a soul\\ncannot miss what she never had, and will not\\nbelieve what she cannot comprehend. I\\nmet one ill-assorted couple of that kind once.\\nThey were two young women sisters. One\\nhad imagination, soul, fire, poetry, and all\\nthat goes to make up genius; but lacking as\\nshe did executive ability and persever ance,\\nher genius was inarticulate. The imperson-\\nal world would never know her beauties, but\\nher friends were rich in her acquaintance.\\nHer sister was a walking Baedeker red\\ncover, gold letters, and all. She was doing\\n297", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nEurope. She read her guide-book, she\\nsaw nothing beyond, and the only time that\\nshe really blossomed was when dressing for\\ntable d hote dinners. I found them at the\\nGrand Hotel at Rome one of the most\\nbeautiful and well-kept hotels, and one ad-\\nmirably adapted to display the tourist who\\ntours on principle.\\nThis gorgeous hotel on Easter week is a\\nsight for gods and men. We engaged our\\nrooms here while we were on the Nile, two\\nmonths before, and reminded them once a\\nweek all during that time that we were com-\\ning; otherwise, on account of its extreme\\npopularity in the fashionable world, they\\nmight not have been able to hold them for\\nus. We reached there late on the Saturday\\nevening before Easter, and dined in our ow^i\\napartments. But the next day, and indeed\\nuntil war broke out and we fled from Rome,\\nthe Grand Hotel was as delightful as it was\\npossible to make a gorgeous, luxuriou.s, and\\nfashionable hotel. The palm-room, where\\nthe band plays for afternoon tea, and where\\none always comes for one s coffee, is between\\nthe entrance and the grand dining-room, so\\nthat on entering the hotel one comes upon a\\nmost beautiful vista of a series of huge glass\\ndoors and lovely green waving palms, with\\nnothing but a glass roof between one and the\\nblue Italian sky.\\n29S", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nMost of the smart Americans go there,\\nand a very beautiful front they presented.\\nI had not seen any American clothes for a\\nyear, but on Easter Sunday at luncheon I\\nsaw the most bewitching array of smart\\nstreet-gowns worn by the inimitable Amer-\\nican woman, who is as far beyond the women\\nof every other race on earth in her selection\\nof clothes and the w^ay she holds up her head\\nand her shoulders back and walks off in them\\nas grand opera is above a hand-organ. Even\\nthe French woman does not combine the good\\nsense with good taste as the American does.\\nAnd there I found these sisters, each lovely\\nin lier own way the pretty one listening to\\nthe raptures of the poetic one with a palpable\\nsneer which said plainly I not only have no\\npart in these vain imaginings, but I do not\\nthink that you yourself believe them. You\\nare posing for the world, and I am the only\\none who knows it. Have I not been with you\\neverywhere, and have I, with my two eyes,\\nwhich certainly are as good as yours have\\nI seen these things you describe It was\\npathetic, for the muse of the poet soon felt\\nthe mire in which it daily trod. The fire\\nfaded from the girl s eye, her radiance dis-\\nappeared, her noble enthusiasms paled, her\\nfantastic and brilliant imagination dulled,\\nand soon she sat listlessly in our midst, a\\ntired, patient smile upon her delicate face,\\n299", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwhile lier sister discoursed volubly upon\\nclothes. Alas, the old fable of the iron pot\\nand the porcelain kettle drifting down the\\nstream together At the end of the journey\\nthe iron pot had not even a scratch upon its\\nthick sides, but the porcelain was broken to\\npieces. How I longed to take that wounded\\nimagination, that whimsical wit, under my\\nwing and explore Rome with her! But\\ncircumstances held the two together, and I\\ntook instead my guide, Seraphino Malespina.\\nSeraphino deserves a chapter by himself.\\nHis observations upon human nature were\\nof much more value to me than his knowl-\\nedge of Rome, accurate and worthy as that\\nwas. He was the best guide I ever had. I\\nhad heard of him, so when we arrived I\\nsimply wrote to him and engaged him by the\\nweek. He took us everywhere, never wasted\\nour money (which is a wonder in a guide),\\nand, while I may forget some of his dates\\nand statistics, I shall never forget his\\nshrewdness in understanding human nature.\\nHis disquisitions on the ordinary tou.rist,\\nand his acute analysis of the two sisters I\\nhave described, were so accurate that I de-\\ntermined then and there that Seraphino was\\na philosopher. The interest I took in his\\nnarratives pleased him to such an extent\\nthat he was unwearied in searching out inter-\\nesting material. I taught him to use the cam-\\n300", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nera, and lie photographed us in the Colosseum\\nand in front of the Arch of Constantino.\\nHe persuaded me to coax the poet away\\nfrom her sister one day and to take her with\\nme instead of my companion. I did so, and\\nto this day I thank my guide for his wisdom,\\nfor once out from under the sister s depress-\\ning influence, that whimsical genius, worthy\\nof being classed with the most famous of\\nwits, blossomed under my appreciative\\nlaughter like a rose in the sunlight.\\nWe saw, too, the magnificent statue of\\nGaribaldi a superb thing, which overlooks\\nthe whole city of Rome. We tossed pennies\\ninto the fountain of the Trevi, and drank\\nsome of the water, Avhich is a sure sign, if\\nyou wish it at the time you drink, that you\\nwill return to Rome.\\nIt was on the day that we went to Tivoli\\nthat I heard the first war news from America\\nwhich I regarded final. W^e were on the\\nI^Tile when the Maine was blown up, and all\\nthrough Egypt and Greece news was slow\\nto travel. When we got to Italy we were\\ndependent upon London for despatches. I\\nwaited until I received my owm papers be-\\nfore I knew the truth. Finally, on our de-\\nparture for Tivoli, my American mail was\\nhanded to me, and I found what prepara-\\ntions were being made that my brother was\\ngoing! I remember Tivoli as in a haze of\\n301", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nwar clouds. America arming herself for\\nwar once more Some of my family my\\nvery own preparing to go How mncli\\ndo you think I cared for the Emperor Ha-\\ndrian and his villa, which was a whole town\\nin itself, and his waterfalls and his wonder-\\nful objects of art\\nAt any other time how I would have rev-\\nelled in the idea of his two theatres^ his\\nschools, his libraries, his statues pillaged\\nfrom my beautiful Greece, his philosopher s\\nwall a huge wall built only for shade, so\\nthat his friends who came to discourse phi-\\nlosophy with him could walk in its west\\nshadow mornings, and in its east shadow af-\\nternoons all these things would have driven\\nine wild v\u00c2\u00bbdth enthusiasm. But on that day\\nI saw instead the Flying Squadron in Hamp-\\nton Roads, painted black. I saw the Presi-\\ndent and his secretaries, with anxious faces,\\nconsulting with their generals; I saw how\\nawful must be the sacrifice to the country in\\nevery way ^money, commerce, health, the\\nvery lives of the dear soldiers of our army,\\nwho fight from choice, and not because law\\ncompels their enlistment. My companion\\nridiculed my anxiety and rallied me on my\\ninattention to Hadrian. Hadrian! What\\nwas Hadrian to me when I thought of the\\nvolunteers in America\\nE ot two days later war was formallv de-\\n302", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nclarcd, and altliougii Rome was yet practi-\\ncally unexplored, although we had been there\\nonly three weeks, we rushed post-haste to\\nParis, spent one day gathering up our\\ntrunks from Munroe s, and left that same\\nnight for London.\\nOnce in London, however, we found our-\\nselves blocked. The American Line steam-\\nships had been requisitioned by the govern-\\nment, and were no longer at our disposal.\\nWith changed names they were turned into\\nwar vessels, and few, indeed, Avere the women\\nwho would go aboard them in the near\\nfuture. The J^orth German Lloyd promised\\nus the new Kaiser Friedricli, and every\\nplace was taken. AVe went to the Cecil\\nHotel and waited. Day after day passed, and\\nthe sailing-day was postponed once, then\\ntwice. I was frantic with impatience. The\\ntruth was the Kaiser- Frlcdrich was not quite\\nfinished. Evidently it is the same with a\\nship as with dress-makers. They promise to\\niinish your gown and send it home for\\nThanksgiving, whereas you are in luck if\\nyou get it by Christmas.\\nThe only thing that consoled me Avas being\\nat the Cecil. To be sure, it was filled Avith\\nAmericans, but I was not avoiding them\\nthen. I had finished my journeyings. I\\nhad got my point of vicAV. I Avas going\\nHOME\\n303", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nHow I wished for poor Bee! What an\\nawful time she had with me at The Insu-\\nlar (which, of course, is not its real name\\nbut I dare not tell it, because it is so smarts\\nand I would shock its worshippers). ITow\\nshe hated our lodgings! E ow she will not\\nbelieve me when I tell her that the Cecil is\\nas good as an American hotel that its eleva-\\ntors (lifts) really move; that its cuisine is\\nas delicious as Paris; that its service is ex-\\ncellent. Bee is polite but incredulous. To\\nbe sure, I tell her that the hotel is as ugly as\\nonly an English architect could make it;\\nthat the blue tiles in the dining-room would\\nmake of it a fine natatorium, if they would\\nonly shut the doors and turn in the water\\nnothing convinces her that English hotels are\\nnot jellied nightmares. But as for me, I re-\\ncall the Cecil with feelings of the liveliest\\nappreciation. I was comfortable there, for\\nthe first time in England. If it had not been\\nfor the war I would have been happy.\\nThe hotels in London which the English\\nconsider the best I consider the worst. If\\nan American wishes to be comfortable let\\nhim eschew all other gods and cleave to the\\nCecil. The Cecil I wish my cab was turn-\\ning in at the entrance this very minute\\nFinally the Kaiser Friedrich bu.rst some-\\nthing important in her interior, and they\\ngave her up and put on the Trave. Instantly\\n304", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nthere was a maddened rush for the Liverpool\\nsteamer. The Cimard office was besieged.\\nWithin two hours after the North German\\nLloyd bulletined the Trave every berth was\\ntaken on the Etruria. I arrived too late, so,\\nin company with the most of the Kaiser\\nFriedrich s passengers, I resigned myself to\\nthe Trave.\\nWe were eight days at sea, and some of\\nthose I remained in my berth. I was hap-\\npier there, and yet in spite of private woes\\nI still think of that delightful captain and\\nthat darling stewardess with affection. The\\nsteamship company literally outdid them-\\nselves in their efforts to console their disap-\\npointed passengers. They put the town of\\nSouthampton at our disposal, and the\\nTrave s steady and spinster-like behavior did\\nthe rest.\\nI held receptions in my state-room every\\nday. The captain called every morning, and\\nso did the charming wife of the returning\\nGerman Ambassador, Mr. Uhl. The girls\\ncame down and sat on my steamer-trunk,\\nand told me of the flirtations going on on\\ndeck. And every night that dear stewardess\\nwould come and tuck me in, and turn out\\nthe light, and say, Good-night, f riiulein\\nI hope you feel to-morrow better.\\nWhen the pilot reached us we were at\\nluncheon, and every man in the dining-room\\nu 805", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "AS SEEN BY ME\\nbolted. American newspapers after eight\\ndays of suspense! One man stood up and\\nread the news aloud. Dewey and the battle\\nof Manila Bay! We did not applaud. It\\nwas too far off and too unreal. But we wom-\\nen wept.\\nAs we drove through the streets of New\\nYork I said to the people who came to meet\\nme, For Heaven s sake, what are all these\\nflags out for Is it Washington s birthday\\nI have lost count of time!\\nMy cousin looked at me pityingly.\\nMy poor child/ she said, I am glad you\\nhave come back to God s country, where you\\ncan learn something. We have a war on\\nI gave a gasp. That shows how unreal\\nthe war seemed to me over there. I never\\nsaw so many flags as I saw in Jersey City\\nand New York. I was horrified to find Chi-\\ncago, nay, even my own house, lacking in\\nthat respect.\\nBut I am proud to relate that two hours\\nafter my return directly I had done kissing\\nBilly, in fact the largest flag on the whole\\nstreet was floating from my study window.\\nTHE ET^D", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "By EUTH McENEKY STUAKT\\nMORIAH S MOURNING, and Other Half Houi\\nSketches. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental,\\n$1 25.\\nIN SIMPKINSVILLE. Character Tales. Illustrated.\\nPost 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 25.\\nSOLOMON CROW S CHRISTMAS POCKETS, and\\nOther Tales. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Orna-\\nmental, $1 25.\\nCARLOTTA S INTENDED, and Other Tales. Illus-\\ntrated. Post Svo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 50.\\nA GOLDEN WEDDING, and Other Tales. Illus-\\ntrated. Post Svo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 50.\\nTHE STORY OF BABETTE A Little Creole Girl.\\nIllustrated. Post Svo, Cloth, Ornamental, ^1 50.\\nMrs. Stuart is one of some half-dozen American writers\\nwho are doing the best that is being done for English litera-\\nture at the present time. Her range of dialect is extraordi-\\nnary but, after all, it is not the dialect that constitutes the\\nchief value of her work. That will be found in its genuine-\\nness, lighted up as it is by superior intelligence and imagina-\\ntion and delightful humor. Chicago Tribune.\\nMrs. Stuart is a genuine humorist. N. Y. Mail and Express.\\nFew surpass Mrs. Stuart in dialect studies of negro life and\\ncharacter. Detroit Free Press.\\nHARPER BROTHERS, Publishers\\nNEW YORK AND LONDON\\n^^^Any of the above works icill he sent by mail, postage\\nprepaid, to any part of the United States, Canada, or\\nMexico, on receipt of the price.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "By JOHN KENDKICK BANGS\\nTHE BOOMING OF ACRE HILL. Illustrated.\\nCOFFEE AND REPARTEE and THE IDIOT. In One\\nVolume. Illustrated.\\nTHE ENCHANTED TYPEWRITER. Illustrated by Peter\\nNewell.\\nTHE DREAMERS. Illustrated by Edward Penfield.\\nPEEPS AT PEOPLE. Passages from the writings of Anne\\nWarrington Witherup, Journalist. Illustrated by Edward\\nPenfield.\\nGHOSTS I HAVE MET, and Some Others. Illustrated by\\nPeter Newell.\\nA HOUSE-BOAT ON THE STYX. Being Some Account of\\nthe Divers Doings of the Associated Shades. Illustrated.\\nTHE PURSUIT OF THE HOUSE -BOAT. Being Some\\nFurther Account of the Doings of the Associated Shades,\\nunder the Leadership of Sherlock Holmes, Esq. Illustrated\\nby Peter Newell.\\nTHE BICYCLERS, and Three Other Farces. Illustrated.\\nA REBELLIOUS HEROINE. Illustrated.\\nMR. BONAPARTE OF CORSICA. Illustrated by H. W.\\nMcVlCKAR.\\nTHE WATER GHOST, and Others. Illustrated.\\n(IGmo, Cloth, Ornamental, |1 25 per volume.)\\nPASTE JEWELS. Being Seven Tales of Domestic Woe.\\nWith an Illustration. f6mo, Cloth, Ornamental, ,|1 GO.\\nCOBWEBS FROM A LIBRARl CORNER. Verses. 16mo,\\nCloth, 50 cents.\\nTHREE WEEKS IN POLITICS. Illustrated. 82mo,\\nCloth, Ornamental, 50 cents.\\nCOFFEE AND REPARTEE. Illustrated. 32mo, Cloth,\\nOrnamental, 50 cents.\\nHARPER BROTHERS, Publishers\\nNEW YORK AND LONDON\\njg\u00c2\u00ae^ Any of the above works will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to\\nany part of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price.", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "-:v^\\n4^^\\nA\\nOo.\\nr-\\n:K", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "A\\nb^\\n-n..\\n.^:0\\nc^-.\\n.-Js^^\\n-0\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a03^\\nK*", "height": "3075", "width": "1753", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3162", "width": "1954", "jp2-path": "asseenbyme00bell_0330.jp2"}}