Gop>7lghtN 'lEl-i^A- COPntlGHT DEPOSIT. OPPOSITE THE TREASURY ONE BLOCK FROM THE^WHITE HOUSE. The Hotel par excellence of the National Capital. CABLE, ELECTRIC, AND HORSE CARS PASS THE DOOR TO ALL PARTS OF THE CITY. jThe most centrall}^ located jpf any hotel in the city. American plan $3 per Day and upwards ALSO TttOUSftND ISLAND ttOUSt ALEXANDRIA BAY, NY. America's most beautiful resort. Send two 2c. stamps for beautiful ' illustrated guide, to STAPLES & DEWITT, Proprietors. NATIONAL HOTEL, OPPOSITE PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD. O. G. STAPLES, Proprietor. ( \ 1 L J Rand, McNally & Co.'s HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON ENVIRONS. WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. FOURTH EDITION. CHICAGO AND NEW YORK : RAND, McNALLY & CO., PUBLISHERS. 1900. •ft#i»Noo«fy^ TWO COPIES RECEIVEjJ. Library of CeRffe€% QftiOB of ffee JUN4-1800 ReglsUr of Copyflfiffc 63353 Copyright, 1895, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1897, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1899, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1900, by Rand, McNally & Co. ri5 TABLE OF CONTENTS. I. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON Page 7 Railway Stations, 7; Sound Steamers, 9; Steamship Landings, 10; Baggage Transfers and Delivery, 11; Getting About the City, 12; Hacks and Cabs, 12; Street Car Routes, 13; Ferries, 16; Hotels, 17; Restaurants, 21; Apartment Houses or Family Hotels, 22; Boarding and Lodging Houses, 23. II. IN AND AROUND BOSTON 25 Localities, 25; The North End, 25; The Central District, 26; The West End, 27; The' South End, 28; The Annexed Districts, 28; Metropolitan Boston, 34; Cemeteries, 38. III. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES 42 The Common, 42; The Public Garden, 44; The New Public Park .System, 46; Charlesbank, 47; The Fens, 47; Leverett Park, 47; Jamaica Park, 48; Arnold Arboretum, 48; Franklin Park, 48; Marine Park, 50. IV. OLD LANDMARKS .- 52 Faneuil Hall, 52; Old State House, 54; Old South Meeting House, 56; Old Corner Book Store, 57; King's Chapel, 57; Christ Church, 58; Old Burying Grounds, 59. V. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS .._ 64 Alphabetical List of Theaters, 64; Museums and Collections, 6g; Music and Musical Societies, 72; Alphabetical List of Musical So- cieties, 72; Athletics, 74; Field Sports, 74. VI. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC 76 Public Schools, 76; Harvard University, 80; Other Institutions, 84; Libraries, 87; Boston Public Library, 88; Other Libraries, 94; The Museum of Fine Arts, 96. VII. CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK.. 98 Sunday in Boston, 98; Protestant Churches, 99; Roman Catholic Churches, 104; Other Religious Organizations, 106; Societies for Social Improvement, 107; Charities and Hospitals, 108. VIII. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, AND MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS 113 List of Leading Clubs, 112; Scientific and Learned Societies, 117; Secret Orders, 118; Military Organizations, 118. IX. A TOUR OF THE CITY 120 Washington Street, 120; Milk Street, 121; Custom House and Vicin- ity, 122; State Street, 124; Newspaper Row, 125; School Street and the City Hall, 126; ScoUay Square and Vicinity, 127; Beacon Hill, 128; Through the Common and Public Garden, 130; Commonwealth Ave- nue, 131; Copley Square, 131; To Cambridge, via Harvard Bridge, 132; Charlestown and Bunker Hill, 133. X. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS --- 134 The Harbor, 134; The Islands, 135; The North Shore, 139; The South Shore, 144. (3) HOTEL EMPIRE Absolutely Fire Proof. Broadway and 63d Street, NEW YORK CITY. Patronized by travelers and tourists of the best class from all parts of the world. From all Jersey City Ferries take the Sixth or Ninth Auetnie elevated trains to 59th Street, or Broadway Cable, to the Hotel door, 19 to 20 minutes EUROPEAN PLAN. Talie Boulevard cars at Grand Central Depot and reach Hotel Empire in 7 minutes. Within 10 minutes of the theaters and g>eat department stores. RATES MODERATE. The only Hotel in New York City having an exten- sive library for the exclusive use of its guests. Electric cars running to all parts of the city pass its doors. 6th and gth Avenue Elevated Railroad stations one iriinute's walk from the hotel. Music by the Lmpire Orchestra every Evening. l^^Send address for our book, "The Empire, Illustrated." W. JOHNSON QUINN, Proprietor. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Southern Passenger Station (frontispiece), Main Entrance Union Station, Hotel Vendome, ----- Bunker Hill Monument, Statue of Minute Man, - - - - Beacon Street Mall, - - - - Agassiz Bridge, - - - . . The Old State House, - - - - Christ Church, ----- Tremont Temple, ----- Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Memorial Hall, Harvard College, Law Library, ----- New England Conservatory of Music, t Boston Public Library, - - j Grand Staircase, Public Library, - ' Museum of Fine Arts, - - - - j Arlington Street Church, I King's Chapel, I Trinity Church, ----- I Boston Chamber of Commerce, - j Massachusetts State House, Commonwealth Avenue, - - - The Harbor Steamboats at Rowe's Wharf, Opposite page i i6 32 36 42 4S 54 58 68 76 80 82 84 88 92 96 100 102 104 122 128 130 134 (5) UNITED STATES HOTEL SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. America's leading summer hotel and the social center of this pop- ular resort. Constructed entirely of brick, and divided into five sections bv solid tircproof walls extending from cellar to roof. GOLF LINKS and POLO GROUNDS upon which guests of hotel liave privileges. Magnificent orchestra, brilliant entertainments, perfect service and cuisine. The Cottage Wing, facing the beau- tiful court, offers all the seclusion and comforts, including baths and steam heat, of private houses. Luxurious accommodations en suite, or comfortable single rooms, with or williout batlis. ( )pens June 14, closes October i . Illustrated booklet nn api)lication. aAQE c^ PERRY, PROPS. I. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. Boston, the beatitiful Puritan city, has many gateways through ^vhich the pilgrims, upon whatever errand bent, may enter her 'j-oodly precincts. And she has much to offer, to all who will come to iier, in the way of historic relics, treasures of literature and art, and i'acilities for study or business. Her older streets may be winding ind narrow, but they are picturesque and full of suggestions of that past in which all Americans have an interest, and of which they have ^, r\ght to be proud. Many of these quaint old thoroughfares lead to shrines which, as long as they exist, will attract tourists and will help io keep alive feelings of patriotism and loyalty. There is no city in {:he world where the spirit of hospitality is more boundless, or where Ml that pertains to the comfort of the guest is more accessible. ( A feeling of uncertainty and dread is ajDt to possess the mind of one who is entering a strange city, and the friendly words of direc- tion and caution given in this chapter are intended to remove, as far ks may be possible, the embarrassment and discomfort which are Qatural to inexperienced travelers. There are six railway stations in Boston and many landing places for passengers from trans-Atlantic nd coastwise steamers. Railway Stations. The Boston & Albany Railroad makes use of the Southern LFnion vStation, the point of departure for through trains for the West, /la the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad. It also has an accommodation station near Copley Square. I The Boston & Maine Railroad System uses the Northern Union Station on Cau.se way Street, between Nashua and Haverhill streets. 8 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. This system, in addition to its main line, comprises the Boston & Lowell division, the Eastern division, and the Central Massachusetts division. The Fitchburg Railroad — Hoosac Tunnel Route — also occupies the Northern Union vStation on Causeway Street ; but its general offices remain in the old Fitchburg Station a few steps east. The New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad occupies the Southern Union Station. The Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad has its ferry station at 350 Atlantic Avenue, foot of High Street. Remarks on the Various Railway Stations. Much of the traveler's comfort depends upon the railway stations with which he has to do in making a journey. Those of Boston will compare favorably with the stations of other great cities of the United States. The waiting-rooms are spacious and comfortably furnished; the toilet-rooms and barber shops are neat and orderly, and the attendants are obliging and civil when giving information. In each one of the stations will be found lunch rooms or counters, as well as restaurants, where well-cooked meals, at reasonable prices, may be had at any hour of the day. Telegraph and telephone offices, news-stands, flower and fruit stands, and information bureaus are also located in all stations. Ladies arriving alone in Boston will always find a matron in charge of the waiting-room who will answer questions and give infor- mation and suggestions which it will be quite safe to follow. The Southern Union Station, or "Southern Terminal," is on Dewey Square at the intersection of Atlantic Avenue, Summer and Federal streets, and is jointly occupied by the New York, New Haven & Hartford and the Boston & Albany Railroad Companies. Here arrive all passengers from New York and the South or West except those coming over the Hoosac Tunnel Route or through Canada. This magnificent station, opened Jan. r, 1S99, is the largest rail- way terminal in the world, exceeding the St. Louis L^nion Depot by aliout ten per cent of capacity and size. It is an imposing structure of pink Connecticut granite, six stories in height, the upper floors; MAIN ENTRANCE, UNION STATION. The New Summerland COOL, P16TFUL Nova Scotia I t The Beautiful Acadian Province By the Sea HEALTHFUL, RESTFUL, DELIGHTFUL— AND THE EXPENSE SO VERY SMALL. FAST MAIL EXPRESS STEAMERS Sail from Lewis Wharf at 2 p. m., every Tuesday and Friday durini; the year, and from July to October, every Monday, Tuesday, Thurs- day," and Friday, reaching Yarmouth early next morning and making close connections for all points in the Provinces. Returning leave for Boston in the evening. Tickets sold and bag?ae:e checked through!) to all points. The handsomely illustrated Guide Book, " Beautiful Nova .Scotia" (1900), sent cm receipt of 5 cents to cover po.stage. For descriptive folders, staterooms, and other information, address H. F. HAMMOND, Agent, Yarmouth Steamship Co. (Limited), 43 Lewis Wharf, BOSTON, !>L\SS. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 9 accommodating the business offices of the various railway companies interested. It is the property of the Southern Terminal Company, which uses thirty-five acres of very valuable ground, the buildings alone covering about thirteen acres. The cost of land and buildings is said to have already approached $14,000,000. It was necessary to drive 43,000 spruce piles, and to use in the structure, besides cut stone enough to cover a front 3,300 feet in length, and to appear elsewhere, about 16,500,000 bricks, 30,000,000 pounds of steel, 5,000,000 feet of lumber, 150,000 square feet of wire-glass, 10 acres of gravel roofing, and other materials in equally vast amounts. The broad corner entrance admits the traveler to the Midway — an open space between the waiting rooms and train-shed large enough for the maneuvering of a regiment. Inmense and comfortable waiting rooms, baggage rooms, ticket offices, restaurants, a covered carriage stand, etc., open off from this, with the most complete modern appliances of all sorts. The train-shed, outside of this, is a space 600 feet square, spanned by a steel and glass roof supported upon three arches of steel trusses, the middle one of 22S feet span. This shed contains 28 tracks side by side, and can accommodate at once 344 sixty-five foot passenger cars, able to seat 28,000 persons. Over 700 trains will regularly use the station daily, when all are arranged for. In addi- tion to this main floor there is a basement, or subway floor, intended mainly for suburban and excursion traffic, where four tracks are laid in loops, so that trains can follow one another with great rapidity, enabling crowds to be handled with greater celerity than anywhere else in the country. The vast yard beyond the station terminates at the Fort Pond Channel, which is crossed upon the greatest steel roll-lift bridge in the world. The Northern Union Statwn, on Causeway Street, between Nashua and Haverhill streets, is almost the equal in size and magnifi- cence of the Southern Terminal. It is occupied jointly by the Boston & Maine and the Fitchburg systems of railroad, and hither come all passengers from the North and many from the West. The grand entrance is under the largest arch, but one, in the country. The main waiting room will seat several hundred people, and the marble toilet rooms and special waiting rooms will all meet with approval. The hack stand at this station is 100 feet square, and is under the station roof, a fact which will be appreciated by travelers in stormy weather. Sound Steamers for New York. People journeying between Boston and New York will often find it pleasant and convenient to patronize one of the lines of Sound steamers. The advantages which these boats offer, especially in warm weather, are freedom from the heat and dust of the railway, and a clean, luxurious stateroom, insuring a good night's rest. 10 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTOIV. The boats of the Fall River and Norw/ck Hnes especially are floating palaces, wherein one may enjoy all the comforts of a first- class hotel and reach his destination in the morning ready for a day of business or pleasure. The trains bringing passengers from all the Sound lines arrive at the Southern Union Station. Steaiiisliip Landing's. Trans-Atlantic Steamships. — Anchor Lme. — (London). Commonwealth Dock, South Boston. Agents, Henderson Brothei's, 7 and 9 vState Street. Allan Line. — (Glasgow). No. 6 Hoosac Tunnel Dock, Charles- town. Offices, 92 State Street. Citnard Line. — (Liverpool). Cunard Docks, foot of Clide Street, East Boston. Office, 99 State Street. Dominion Line. — (Queenstown and Liverpool). Charlestown. Warren Line. — (Liverpool). Hoosac Tunnel Dock, Charlestown. Warren & Co., agents, 125 Milk Street. Ley I and Line. — (Liverpool). Grand Junction Dock, East Boston. Agents, P.vP. Houghton & Co., 115 State Street. L'urnst&e' Li?ie. — (London). Hoosac Tunnel Dock, Charlestown. Furnace, Witlely & Co., 85 Water Street. JoJuiston Line. — (London and Hamburg). N. Y. & N. E. Dock, South Boston. W. J. Johnston & Co., Chamber of Commerce. Wilson /.///t'.— (Hull). N. Y. & N. E. Dock, South Boston. Agent, 88 Kilby Street. Coastwise and River Steamers. — /Boston (Sn> Bangor Steamship Company. — Foster's W^harf. William H. Hill, general manager. (Bangor and intermediate points.) Dominion Atlantic Steamship Company. — (Yarmouth, N. S.) Long Wharf. Kennebec Steamboat Company. — Lincoln's Wharf. Fredk. K. Jones, agent. (Bath, Richmond, Gardiner, Hallowell, and Augusta.) YarmoictJi Steamship Company. — Lewis Wharf. Office, 64 Chat- ham Street. (Yarmouth, N. S., and St. John, N. B.) International Steamship Company. — Commercial Wharf. (Digby and Annapolis, N. S.; Eastport, Maine; St. John, N. B.,and Halifax, N. S.) E. A. Waldron, general agent. \ Iiosto)i &^ Gloucester Steamship Company. — Central Wharf. E. S. Merchant, agent, 244 Atlantic Avenue. Canada Atlantic Steamship Line. — Lewis Wharf. J. A. Flan ders. New England agent. (Halifax.) For Ne70 F^^rX'.— Metropolitan Line, Centi'al Wharf. For Philadelphia. — Central Whari. E. B. Sampson, agent, 7fj Long Wharf. For Baltimore and Norfollc.— V,atter\ Wharf. A. M. Graham, agent'. For Savannah. — Lewis Wharf. Richardson cSj Barnard, agents. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 11 For /a/naica. — Head of Long Wharf. A. W. Preston, agent. For Portland. — Head of India Wharf. Charles F.Williams, agent. For Proziincetozvn. — Commercial Wharf. Atwood & Rich, agents, 109 Commercial Street. For P/y/iioiit/i, WintJu'op, and Cottage Park. — Winthrop Line Wharf, 478 Atlantic Avenue. The daily papers will give full information regarding the many- summer excursion steamers, which leave at almost any hour of the day, during the season, for the various beach resorts. Street cars pass all railroad stations, and are to be found at or near every steamboat wharf, so that one can always be sure of cheap transportation from the place of arrival to the point of destination, or from one station or landing place to another. Baggage Transfers and Delivery. On all the principal inward-bound trains, and at the wharves of incoming steamboats, there is a uniformed agent of the Armstrong Transfer Company. This official will take orders for the transfer of baggage to or from any point in the city, and passengers, on giving him their railroad baggage checks, will receive in return the com- pany's "claim checks," which will give the owner security for his baggage, and these checks are to be surrendered only on receipt of the baggage at the specified destination. This company also owns and operates a line of coupes, carriages, and diligences for the conveyance of passengers between stations, or to and from any part of the city, or for shopping or calling tours. The charge for delivering a trunk to any point within the city limits is 25 cents. The lowest charge for carriage hire for one person is 50 cents, which includes transportation for one trunk, to be taken on the carriage. It is well to bear in mind, however, that the driver of the carriage is not allowed to carry the trunk beyond the entrance hall of a private residence, and that if the trunk is to be carried up- stairs it will be better to send it by the baggage delivery. Outgoing Baggage. — An order should be left at the company's office, corner of Albany and Troy streets, or at any of the branch oifices, at least two hours before the departure of train. They may be summoned by telephone from any part of the city to call at any potel or dwelling for passengers or baggage, and the message is im- j|mediately transferred to the branch office nearest the place from jWhich the order comes, and a carriage or baggage van is dispatched 13 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. to the place of call. The owner of baggage forwarded to a station or steamboat landing is given the company's claim check on the baggage- room of the station or landing, by which his property is at once iden- tified for checking. This company will also check baggage through to destination, from a hotel or residence, if the parties desiring it have their railroad tickets. It has offices in all railroad stations, in all the principal hotels, and in different parts of the city. Caution. — Never give up your checks to any but a uniformed train solicitor, or a regular office agent, or porter of either the transporta- tion company which holds the baggage, or of the express company to which you intend to intrust it, and always take a receipt; and never give up your checks, if you claim your baggage yourself, to any per- son except the uniformed baggageman of the railway or steamboat line by which you have traveled. If you expect to meet or visit friends in the city who are residents, the best way, probably, is to keep your checks and let your friends manage the delivery of the baggage for you. Gettiug- About the City. If one has but a short time to stop in the city, and desires to cover as much ground as possible in that time, it will be wise to engage a cab by the hour (on cab rates) and drive from point to point ; but if several days can be devoted to " doing " the city such expense will be unnecessary. Hacks and Cabs. — The hackney-carriage and cab system of the city is under the control of an official connected with the police ik- partment, the rates of fare being established by the city authoridcs, and varying according to the distance. Disputes about fares are unnecessary, as the drivers are required to display a rate sheet when asked, and rates are published in detail in the city directory. The fare for an adult for short distances, within specified limits in the city proper, is 50 cents; no charge is to be made for one trunk, but 25 cents is charged for each additional trunk. Cabs furnish a cheap and brisk means of getting about the city, i The charge is but 25 cents for transporting one person from any rail- road station to a hotel, or from one railroad station to another. For one or more passengers from one point to another, within specified limits, the fare is 25 cents each. Cabs may also be hired by the hour AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 13 for service within or about the city at the following rates: To or from any point within the limits of the city the rate shall be made on the tasis of $1 per hour for one, two, three, or four passengers. The time shall be reckoned both going to and coming from any point, whether the cab returns empty or otherwise. Fractions of an hour shall not ibe charged after the first hour. I Cabs may be hailed anywhere on the street, when without a pas- senger, for any desired service. When " roaming " on the return from an engagement to the regular stand, it is customary for the driver to throw out a sign by the side of his seat with the suggestive words, i" Not Engaged." The following regulation applies to carrying children by carriage jor cabs : For children under four years of age, with an adult, no (Charge shall be made. For a child between four and twelve years i!of age, when accompanied by an adult, the fare shall be half the (price charged for an adult ; but when not so accompanied, or when a •ichild carried in a cab is over twelve years of age, the charge will be (for an adult fare. Street-Car Routes. By referring to the street-car routes, it will be seen that it is possi- *h\e to visit all points of interest in Boston and the suburban districts without discomfort or great expense. The spacious open cars used in the summer, and the comfortable and equally roomy closed cars used in the winter and stormy seasons, afford a safe and pleasant ^neans of transit. Now that the subway is finished, and the congested fondition of Washington and Tremont streets in their narrowest parts s relieved, transit is much quickened. Nearly all the street-car ^ outes have their points of attraction, and it would be impossible to ' ive them all in a work of this kind. But in the following list an ffort has been made to point out the way to those localities which re recognized as especially interesting and important: A Few Attractive Routes, — Dorchcstt-r via Grove Z/^?//.— Green car marked "Dorchester" m dasher and end signs. Take car at corner Franklin and Washing- ;on streets. Dorchester via Meeting House /////.—Blue car marked ' ' Meeting ouse Hill" on dasher and " Dorchester" on end signs. Take car M corner Franklin and Washington streets or at Union Station. 14 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Forest Hills. — Green car marked " Forest Hills" on dasher and " Forest Hills " on end signs. Take car at Union Station or at aiiy subway station. Forest Hills Cemetery is near the terminus of this route. Franklin Par!;. — Green car marked " Grove Hall " on dasher and " Franklin Park" on end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station or at any subway station. Blinker Hill. — Green or yellow car marked " Roxbm-y and Charlestown " on dasher and " Bunker Hill " on end signs. This car may be taken at ScoUay Square, or any subway station east of that point. Cypress Street, Brookline. — Blue car marked " Brookline " on dasher and " Cypress Street " on end signs and top of car. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Back Bay Fens and Brookline Park are on this route. Janiaiea Plain. — Yellow car marked "Jamaica Plain'' on dasher and end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station or any subway station. This car passes near Jamaicaway and the Arnold Arboretum. Dai'is Square, West Somerville. — Yellow car marked "Charles- town" on dasher and " Clarendon Hill " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square or any subway station. Magoun Square, Somerville. — Yellow car marked "Charlestown" on dasher and ' ' Magoun Square " on end signs. Take car passing through the subway at Scollay Square. Milton. — Blue car marked " Field's Corner" on dasher and " Mil- ton " on end signs. Take car at corner Franklin and Washington streets, Northern Union Station. Field's Corner. — Blue car marked "Field's Corner Crosstown " on dasher, "Ashmont and Milton " on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Neponset. — Blue car marked "Field's Corner" on dasher and " Neponset " on end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station and Franklin, corner Washington Street. City Point. — Red car marked "South Boston" on dasher and " City Point " on end signs. Take car at either Union vStation or on Washington Street, between Adams Square and Boylston Street, j This ZB.V goes to Marine Park. • 1 City Point to Harvard Square. — Red car marked "South Boston " on dasher and " Harvard Square" on end signs. Take car at Park Square and Charles Street. Maiden.— Amher-Qi)\ove6. car marked " Everett " on dasher and "Maiden " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. il/cv^c';7/.— Amber-colored car marked " Charlestown" on dasher and " Medford " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. Wood I awn Cenie.ery. — Amber-colored car marked " Everett" on dasher and " Woodlawn " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. Arlington and Arlington Heights.— Qxim^ow earmarked " Cam- bridge " on dasher and " Arlington " on end signs. Take car at Bow- doin Square. This route passes Harvard College. Harvard Square to City Point. — Crimson car marked " Cam- /A AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 15 bridge" on dasher and " Harvard Square " on end signs. Take car at Park Square and Charles Street ; it passes Harvard College. Harvard Square. — Crimson car marked " Cambridge" on dasher and " Harvard Square " on end signs. Take car at Park Street Sub- way Station. This route passes Harvard College. Moimt Auburn and Ne^vton. — Crimson car mai'ked" Cambridge" on dasher and "Mount Auburn and Newton" on end signs. Take car at Bowdoin Square. Mount Auburn Cemetery is on this route. Newton and Reservoir, via Beacon Street . — Chocolate-colored cars marked "Reservoir" on dasher and "Newton Boulevard" on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Reservoir, via Brook line Village. — Blue car marked "Brookline" on dasher and " Reservoir" on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Oak Square. — Chocolate-colored cars marked " Allston " on dasher and " Oak Square" on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Free Transfers. — The Street Railway Companies issue free transfers as follows : In the Subway. — At Park Street and ScoUay Square. At Grove Hall. — For any car going south to Dorchester or Franklin Park ; and to any car going north on either Blue Hill Ave- nue or Warren Street. At Dudley Street. — For any car going south on Warren Street or Blue Hill Avenue to Dorchester or Franklin Park ; north, to any car running on Washington Street, Shawmut Avenue, Tremont Street, Columbus Avenue, or Huntington Avenue to Scollay Square, Union Station, Charlestown, or Somerville, Bunker Hill, and East Boston. At Ro.xhury Crossing. — To any car going toward Brookline or Jamaica Plain, and to any Tremont Street or Washington Street car going north. At Field's Corner. — For any Neponset or Milton car going south, or any Dorchester Avenue or Mount Pleasant car going north. At East Boston Ferry, on the Boston side. — For any car going to East Boston or Chelsea. At East Boston Ferry, on the East Boston side. — For any car running on Tremont and Washington streets. At Dorchester Street, South Boston. — For any car going to City Point, Boston proper, or Washington Village. At Broadway, corner Dorchester Avenue. — For any City Point to Harvard Square or Bay View to City Point car. At Harvard Square, Cambridge. — For any car going to North Avenue, Mount Auburn, or Huron Avenue. Also to Park Square, 'Tremont House, Bowdoin Square, Scollay Square, via East Cam- bridge and City Point. At Craigie Bridge. — For Claredon Hills, Somerville, Harvard Square, or Central Square, Cambridge ; City Point. South Boston, Park Square, Bowdoin Square, and Scollay Square. At West Boston Bridge. — For Harvard Square, Brookline 16 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Street, Pearl Street, Mount Auburn, and North Avenue. Also to City Point, South Boston, Park Square, and Bowdoin Square. At SiiUivcxu Square. — For Union .Square, West Somerville, ]\Ia- goun Square, .Medford, Winter Hill, JNlalden, Everett, and Woodlawn. The Lynn & Boston Electric Railroad System covers the largest extent of territory of any electric railway in New England, and em- braces a large area of the northern and northwestern section of Essex County, including Lynn, Saugus, Swampscott, Marblehead, Salem, Peabody, Danvers, Beverly, Wenham, and Hamilton; and, in Middle- sex County: Stoneham, Wakefield, Melrose, Maiden, and Everett. In Suffolk it runs through Boston, from ScoUay Square, through Charlestow"n and Chelsea, to Revere, thence to Lynn, and so on. This system has 153 miles of single track (100 of which is single, with turn-outs), but it connects, outside of Boston, twenty-one cities and towns, with an estimated population of nearly 300,000. Lynn is the distributing center of this great electric system, and from this point the possibilities of change of direction seem to be limitless. The passenger station is at ScoUay Square. The following is the time- table : Tu BeacJiiiiont, every sixty minutes. To Chelsea, via Charlestown, every eight and te-n m-inutes. To Woodlawn Ceiiie/ery, every thirty minutes. To Revere, every thirty minutes. To Revere Beach (in summer), every fifteen minutes. To Lynn, Saugus, and Swampscott, every sixty minutes ; Sun- days (in summer), every thirty minutes. Cars from Lynn to Peabody and Marblehead, every sixty min- utes; to East Saugus and Cliftondale, every thirty minutes. Ferries. A list of the ferries which ply between Boston and the surround- ing shores is as follows : Chelsea Ferry (foot of Hanover Street). — First boat leaves Chel- sea, foot of Winnisimmet Street, 4.15 a. m., 4.45; then every thirty minutes to 5.45 r. m.; then every fifteen minutes to 7.40 p. m.; then every thirty minutes to 11.15 p- M-; first boat from Boston, 4.30 a. m.; last boat, 11.30 r. .m. ; Saturday, fifteen minutes' time all day. Sunday. — First boat leaves Chelsea 6.15 a. m., every thirty min- utes to 8.45 A. M. ; every fifteen minutes to 7.45 v. m. ; then every thirty minutes to 11. 15 i>. m. ; last boat from Boston, 11.30 v. m. East Boston {North Ferrv), foot of Battery Street. — Leave at AJV INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 17 4.07 A. M.; every fifteen minutes to 6 a. m.; every seven and one-half minutes to 11.22 r. m.; every fifteen minutes to 11.52 night; every twenty minutes to 4 a. m. East Boston {South Ferry), foot of Eastern Avenue. — Leave at 4 A. M. , every fifteen min.ites to 6 a. m. ; every seven and one-half minutes to 7.30 A. M., every six minutes to 11.30 a. m.; every nine minutes to 1.30; every six minutes tot). 45; every seven and one-half minutes to 8 I'. M. (Saturday, 9 p. m.); every fifteen minutes to 12 p. m.; every twenty minutes to 4 a. m. Boston & Revere Beach Railroad Ferry, 350 Atlantic Avenue. First boat leaves at 5.35 a. m.; every half -hour to 9.30 p. m.; then every hour to 11.30 p. m. Hotels. Boston is prepared to ' ' welcome the coming and speed the parting guest " in such manner that he will long to visit her again. Her many good hotels ai'e not confined, as in former days, to the business district of the city, but they are to be found in almost every quarter, and of various grades of excellence, and it would seem that "all sorts and conditions of men" might here find a temporary home which would meet their utmost requirements. Hotels on the American plan furnish lodging, meals, and attend- ance at a fixed price per day, which varies according to the grade of the house and the location and appointment of rooms. Hotels on this plan are recommended to persons who, having command of their time, can be regular at meals, and to those who like to know in ad- vance the expense to which they will be subject while in the city. The prices of these hotels vary from $2 to $5 a day and upward for extra rooms and other advantages. It should be borne in mind that proprietors charge travelers for the meal that is on the table when they arrive or when they depart. As there is usually a meal going on from the early breakfast until late in the evening, it is well for the guest to see that he is registered with his account beginning with the first meal which he intends to eat. If the clerk refuses to accede to this arrangement, the meal must be paid for or other quarters sought. I In the list of hotels, which forms a part of this chapter, the lowest ordinary rates per day for one person are given for hotels run on the American plan. Higher rates are charged for superior rooms. Where the stay in the city is to be prolonged for more than one week, re- 18 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. duced rates may be obtained at some of these hotels by making arrangements before registering. Hotels on the European plan. — In these hotels rooms are rented, with light and service, at so much per day, and the guest may take his meals in the restaurant attached to the hotel or elsewhere, as con- venience or fancy may dictate. Hotels on the European plan will commend themselves to people who are limited as to time and do not have to consider expense. The prices range from 50 cents anight, in some of the cheaper hotels, to $2 and $3 in the Back Bay region; but very choice rooms and extra privileges must be paid for accordingh'. As a rule, $1 per day for a single room and $2 for two persons together will secure accommodations that will satisfy most travelers. Combination Plan. — Some of the best hotels combine both Amer- ican and European plans, and in the list of minimum charges prices for both plans are given. Extras. — The only extra charges which will be found in the bill will be for meals sent to private rooms, baths (when no bath-room is attached to the room occupied), and fires, or, in some cases, the turn- ing on of steam heat. The fire is usually of hard coal, in an open grate, and costs from 50 cents to $1 per day, and 50 cents is the usual charge for baths. In almost every hotel will be found telegraph offices, barbers, and bootblacks, news-stands, and theater ticket offices; and in many, railway ticket offices and agents of the baggage transfer companies and carriage lines. These agents are authorized and may be patronized without hesitation. Alphabetical List of Hotels. Abbotsford, 1 86-1 88 Commonwealth Avenue. Adams, 551-571 Washington Street — Eur., fi. American, Hanover and Washington streets — Eur., $1. BclU'7'ue, 15-23 Beacon Street — Eur., $1. Boston Tavern, 347 Washington Street — Eur., $1. .Brunswick, Boylston and Claredon streets — Am., $5; Eur., $1. Castle Sgjtare, 423-431 Tremont Street — Eur., $ — Clarendon, 521-523 Tremont Street — Eur., $ — Clark's, 575-581 Washington Street — Eur., $1. Copley Square, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street — Am., $3.50; Eur., $1.50. Crawford, Scollay Square — Eur., $1. Huntington, Huntington Avenue — Eur., $1. Langham, 1679 Washington Street — Am., $2.50; Eur., fi. Maverick, 23 Maverick Square, East Boston — Eur., f i. Nottingham, Copley Square — Eur., $2. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 19 Oxford, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street — Eur., $1.50. Parker, School and Tremont streets — Eur., $1. Plaza, Columbus Avenue and Holyoke Street — Eur., %\. (2itincy, Brattle Street and Brattle Square — Am., $3 ; Eur., $1. Revere, Bowdoin Square — Eur., $1. Reynolds, 623 Washington Street — Eur., $1. Rexford, Allston and Howard streets — Eur., $1. Sazwy, 598 Washington Street — Eur., $1. Thorndike, Boylston and Church streets — Eur., $1. Touraiiic. Tremont and Boylston streets — Eur., $2. Titillcries, Commonwealth Avenue — Eur., $2. United States, Beach, Albany, and Lincoln streets — Am., $2.50; Eur.,$i. Vendome, Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street — Am., $5. Victoria, Dartmouth and Newbury streets — Eur., $1. Winthrop, Bowdoin and Allston streets — Am., $2.50. Young's, Court Street and Court Square — Eur., $1. Notable Traits of Prominent Hostelries.— It is not the purpose of this book to make any discriminations, other than those Avhich will aid the stranger to find a suitable home for his stay in the city. For addresses and rates, the foregoing list will give one a pretty good idea of what the town affords; but there are some traits that belong to the older hostelries which it will be desirable for the stranger to know before making his selection. Most of the down-town hotels are in the district which is bounded on the north by Hanover Street and on the south by Boylston Street. In this district may be found every grade of hotel, and people who are here for business or sight-seeing will choose this locality for its convenience. In the Back Bay district wall be found places whose elegant appointments and air of refinement and exclusiveness will appeal to those who have the leisure and the means to command such luxuries. The Aniericaii House, on Hanover Street, between Portland and Court streets, is a long-established and very good hotel. It is inter- esting to know that upon a portion of the ground it occupies there formerly stood the home of Gen. Josejjh Warren. This hotel has been in operation since 1835, and has had many alterations and additions. It was the first hotel to introduce the passenger elevator. Its prices are moderate, and it is a well-kept, comfortable house. It is largely patronized by business men, and by Western merchants. The Adams House, at 553 Washington Street, is one of the largest 20 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and best hotels in the city. It is noted for the excellence of its cuisine, and for its display of good paintings, by modern artists, on the walls of its corridors and halls. It covers the site of the Lamb Tavern, built in 1745, and also of the first Adams House, built |_in 1844. Its central location and excellent service make it an attractive place to tourists. The Hotel Brunswick, the Voidoiiie, Victoria, and Copley Square hotels, in the Back Bay district, are, as a group, the finest hotels in Boston. They are delightfully located in the fashionable part of the city, and have all the elegance of finish and appointment which the most fastidious guest can desire. All of these houses enjoy the patronage of wealthy and distinguished people, and are favorite places for private and club dinner parties. The Savoy is a new and lofty hotel, at 598 Washington Street, which is extensively patronized by business men, as it is in the heart of the dry-goods district, and near most offices. The Castle Square Hotel occupies a large part of the immense and handsome structure that contains the Castle Square Theater. The Parker House, on Tremont and School streets, was the first hotel established in this country on the European plan (first opened in 1855 by the late Harvey D. Parker), and it has always maintained the highest reputation for the comfort and elegance of its service. It has been enlarged at different times, and at present is a stately marble structure, covering a large area. The Quincy House. — Not far from the American House, on Brattle Street, extending to Brattle Square, is the Quincy House, the oldest existing hotel in Boston. Established in 1819, and many times enlarged and remodeled. The Thorndike. — This is one of the leading hotels of the city. It is located on Boylston Street, facing the Public Garden, and runs through on Church Street to Park Square. It is elegantly furnished and has all modern improvements, and its location gives it the advantage of a transient patronage in its restaurants, as well as one of the best views of the Public Garden and Common to be had in the city. The United States Hotel , on Beach Street, was built over half a century ago as a family hotel. Its location, while not in the most expensive and aristocratic part of the city, is convenient and accessible and near the center of both the wholesale establishments AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 21 and of the shopping districts. It is one of the best hotels in the city, where much attention is paid to the comfort and pleasure of the guests. Young's Hotel. — The main entrance to this hotel is on Court Avenue, and the hotel extends to Court Square and Court Street. It is one of the largest and best of the hotels on the European plan. One of the features of this hotel is the ladies' dining-room, the entrance to which is on the Court Street side. This is a handsomely decorated room loo feet long and 31 feet wide. It connects with other large dining-rooms, and a cafe for gentlemen on the ground floor. This hotel is a favorite place with New Yorkers. TJie Touraine is the newest of the lirst-class hotels, and exceeds all others in the completeness of its equipment for all modern hotel requirements. It is a very handsome building at the southeast corner of the Common ; is magnificently furnished throughout, and attracts the most fastidious customers. Its restaurant is one of the handsomest in the city, and in the basement are several grillrooms and cafes, fitted up in the German style, which form a favorite lunching place. Restaurants. There are several hundred establishments classed as restaurants in the business section of Boston. Of first-class establishments there are a number, and they include those at the leading hotels on the European plan. Recognized as among the best are those connected with Young's Hotel, the Parker House, and the Touraine. That of Young's Hotel is very extensive, occupying a large part of the ground floor of that establishment.- It has dining-rooms for ladies and gentlemen, lunch rooms, and convenient lunch and oyster count- ers. The dining-rooms and cafe of the Adams House are first-class in every respect. In the Hotel Bellevue, on Beacon Street, is one of the best and prettiest cafes in town. At the Hotel Victoria, on Dart- mouth Street, will be found another cafe with good service, elegant appointments, and fine cuisine. Among the favorite places in the business section of the city is Marston's, on Brattle Street. Here, during the noon hour, hundreds of business men and women find rest and refreshment. This restaurant, since the improvements of 1894,18 the largest ■ public 23 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. restaurant in the city. Farther down town, about the Fanueil Hall markets, are several restaurants, largely patronized by market men, produce men, milk men, and down-town merchants, who find them satisfactory because of their fresh and wholesome fare. On Water Street, near Washington, is found one of the most sumptuously appointed restaurants in the business section. It is known as Fellners', and is but one of half a dozen such places managed by the same firm in different sections of the city. In City Hall Square, Washington Street, and along Newspaper Row, are numbers of restaurants of every kind and grade. There are those in which refreshments can be secured at all hours of the day and aight, and there are still others which cater mainly for the noon trade. McDonald's, 132 Tremont Street, and 16 Winter Street, is popu- lar with ladies who are shopping, and here they may obtain a light kmch at reasonable prices. At the noon hour the place is thronged with women, and a most animated scene is presented. Among other places of this character are Weber s, 25 Temple Place; Doo/Jng's, iSj Tremont Street, and Frost A Park for the North End, — The agitation for a park for the thickly populated region north of Hanover Street resulted, in 1S94., in the passage of an act by the Legislature authorizing the park board to take lands to a limit of $300,000 in assessed values, and providing $50,000 for construction. Soon after its passage the board examined the locality with a view of determining the most suitable location for the proposed pleasure-ground, with regard both to natural advantages THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 51 and a fair amount of territory for the desired purposes. As a result of this examination the commission secured a small tract for which a .complete plan has been prepared, which may be described as follows: The land to be devoted to purposes of recreation lies between the an- cient Copps Hill Burying Ground and the sheet of water which is the confluence of the Charles and Mystic rivers. It is separated from the burying ground by Charter Street, and it is crossed by the busy waterside thoroughfare called Commercial Street. Between the two streets the narrow public domain slopes steeply down between two ranks of tenement houses, thus opening a prospect from the already frequented Copps Hill. Between Commercial Street and the water the original shore-line has disappeared under a tangle of more or less I ancient sea-walls, fillings, and pile structures. I The plan is designed to make this confined space afford oppor- j tunity for the greatest possible variety of modes of recreation. Thus, 1 a resting-place commanding a view of the water is provided upon a I broad terrace on a level with the upper street; an ample promenade I adjacent to the water is provided upon a pier, the upper deck of I which will be reached from the terrace by a bridge which will span I Commercial Street; a good place for children to play is provided on - a beach, which will form the shore of the small haven to be formed by the pier; dressing-rooms will be provided for the use of bathers, floats, I and other conveniences for boatmen. The stone terrace and its ac- jcompanying flights of steps will be plainly, but substantially, con- jstructed, while the steep earth-slopes at the ends and below the high jwall will be planted with low shrubbery. The foot-bridge spanning 'i Commercial Street will be a light steel truss. The new or restored j beach will terminate against sea-walled piers of solid filling, from the ]end of one of which the long and substantial pleasure pier will run out to and along the harbor commissioners' line. Between the beach and Commercial Street there is room for a little greensward and a screening background of shrubbery. IV. OLD LANDMARKS. To meet the requirements of a great and growing modern city, many of the interesting old landmarks of Boston have been sacrificed. But much remains for the edification and instruction of tourists who are interested in historical relics. Faneuil Hall, the Old State House, the Old South Church, Christ Church, and King's Chapel are shrines which attract and inspire all true Americans, and many a pleasant and profitable hour may be spent in reviewing their history and asso- ciations as well as in visiting them. In no other American city are there so many objects which will awaken reverent regard for that past which is the birthright of America's sons and daughters. Economy of time and strength should be considered in all sight-seeing, and, as most of the interesting his- torical landmarks of Boston are in the north part of the town, this is not difficult to attain. A pleasant half -day may be spent in doing the Old State House, Fanueil Hall, Quincy Market, which is ji:st across Merchants' Row from Faneuil Hall ; Christ Church, and Copps Hill Burying Ground. Another half-day should be given to the Old South Meeting-House, King's Chapel, King's Chapel Burying Ground, the Old Granary Burying Ground, and the Central Burying Ground on the Common. In the following pages will be found a brief historical and descriptive sketch of each of these places. Faneuil Hall, in Fanruil Hall Square, is the " Cradle of Liberty" to all who have studied the history of the United States. The first Faneuil Hall was built in 1742, and was a market-house. It was given to the town by Peter Faneuil, a wealthy merchant of French descent, who stipulated that it should be legally authorized and maintained under proper regulations. The enlargement of the plan to include a second story for a hall was a later thought. When the people voted to accept the building they provided that it should be (52) OLD LANDMARKS. 53 called Faneuil Hall ' ' forever. " The first Faneuil Hall was a structure only loo feet long by 40 feet wide. It was partially destroyed by fire -in 1761, only the walls remaining, but rebuilt by the town the follow- ing year. Part of the funds used in rebuilding were raised by a lottery authorized by the State. The second building was completed and formally opened on March 14, 1763, and it was the patriot James Otis, then the orator, who dedicated the hall to "the cause of liberty." Here were held all the town meetings, and, in the dark days before the Revolution, the patriot orators of the time often spoke the words which inspired and kept moving the spirit of Liberty. This building, which was only about half the size of the present one, and two stories high, remained so until 1805. Then, under the I direction of Bulfinch, it was much enlarged and improved. Its I width was increased to 80 feet; the third story was added; the ; hall was made 78 feet square and 28 feet high; large galleries, rest- ing on Doric columns, were put in, and the large platform was built. I The large painting which hangs at the back of the platform repre- I sents Webster addressing the United States Senate on the occasion j of his celebrated reply to Hayne. It is by Healy, and is interesting } because of the portraits of some of the leading public men of that I day. Other portraits hanging on the walls of Washington by Stuart, Faneuil by Col. Henry Sargent, Hancock (Copley), Samuel Adams, I John and John Quincy Adams, and Warren (all by Copley), Commo- i dore Preble, Andrew, Lincoln, and Everett, by modern artists, are 1 mostly copies, the originals having been removed from the hall to the I Art Museum for safe-keeping. ! Until the town became a city, in 1822, the town offices were estab- lished here, and it was the regular place of town meetings. Some of the greatest orators and agitators of the country have been heard \ from its platform. It was here, in 1837, that Wendell Phillips made his first anti-slavery speech. The hall is never let for money, but is at the disposal of the people whenever a sufficient number of persons, complying with certain regulations, ask to have it opened. The city charter contains a wise provision forbidding its sale or lease. It is freely opened to visitors. On the upper floor of the building is the armory of the Ancient and j Honorable Artillery Company, the oldest military organization in the I country. It contains a museum of colonial and provincial relics, I which is also open to visitors. The building was re-roofed in 1899. 54 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Old State House. — On Washington Street, at the head of State Street, is the Old State House, one of the few survivals of the ante- Revolutionary buildings in the city. It is, undoubtedly, the most interesting historical building in this country, for it was here that " the child Independence was born." On this site, where had been the earliest market-place of the town, the first town house was built in 1657. This house was destroyed by fire in 1711, rebuilt a year later, and again burned in 1747. The present structure was built in 1 748 , and within and without the building many stirring events have occurred. It was in turn town house, court house, province court house. State house, and city hall. On the first floor was, in early times, the merchants' walk or exchange. In the eastern room of the second story, Avith an outlook down King Street, was the council chamber, where the royal governors of the province and the royal council sat. The western chamber was the general court-room. Over the entrance to one of these two rooms is placed the seal of the city, and over the other that of the State. During the Stamp-Act excitement the stamped clearances were burned in front of its doors. The British troops were quartered within the building in 176S, and within a few feet of its eastern porch occurred the Boston massacre, on March 5, 1770. The next day Sam Adams stood in the council chamber and made his suc- cessful demand upon the royal representatives for the immediate removal of the troops from Boston. Frothingham, in describing this event, says: " On the walls of the chamber were representatives of the two elements now in conflict — of the Absolutism that was pass- ing away, in full-length portraits of Charles II and James II robed in the royal ermine; and of a Republicanism which had grown robust and self-reliant, in the heads of Endicott, and Winthrop, and Brad- street, and Belcher. Around a long table were seated the lieutenant- governor (Hutchinson) and the members of the council, with the military officers; the scrupulous and sumptuous costumes of the civil- ians in avithority — gold and silver lace, scarlet cloaks, and large wigs — mingling with the brilliant uniforms of the British armj' and navy. Into such imposing presence were now ushered the plainly- attired committee of the town." In the same room Generals Clinton, Howe, and Gage held a council of war just before the battle of Bunker Hill. From the balcony on the State Street side, where the royal procla- THE OLD STATE HOUSE — State, Devonshire, and Washington Streets. OLD LANDMARKS. 55 mations had been delivered, the news of the Declaration of Independ- ence was proclaimed. Inside the house "the gentlemen stood up, and each, repeating the words as they were spoken by an officer, swore to uphold the rights of his country." The proclamation w^as followed by a banquet in the council chamber. In 17S9, at the west- ern end of the building, Washington reviewed the great procession in his honor on the occasion of his last memorable visit to Boston. Here, in 1835, William Lloyd Garrison found refuge from a mob, which had broken up an anti-slavery meeting and threatened the life of the brave agitator. When the State House was no longer needed as a public building it was remodeled and turned into business offices. The original architectural effect was wholly destroyed by the addition of a man- sard roof and other changes. But in 1880-81 public-spirited citizens began a movement which ended in the successful restoration of the building. From the second story upward the exterior of the house now has the appearance it wore in the Provincial period. The gilt eagle, w-ith the State and city arms spread over the western front, was placed to appease over-sensitive citizens who were disturbed by the restoration of the lion and unicorn, in copies, on the eastern gables. Every effort has been made to reproduce the old interior, as well as exterior, and restore, in every detail, the architecture of the Colonial period. The halls have the same floors and ceilings, and on three sides the same walls, that they had in 1747. One end wall in each of the two chambers is new, but it rests upon the same spot as the old wall. The balcony of the second story has been restored upon the model of the still-existing attic balcony, and it is reached through a window of twisted crown glass, out of which have looked all the latter royal governors of the Colony and the early governors of the State. The window^s of the upper stories are modeled upon the small-paned windows of Colonial days ; but f our-paned windows have been put in the first floor and basement to satisfy the tenants, these portions being let for business purposes. On the second floor are two main halls and several ante-rooms. The whole of the second floor, the attics, and cupola are leased by the city to the Bostonian Society. The terms of the lease provide for an annual payment by the society of $100, and the maintenance of the rooms for public exhibition. An interesting collection of antiquities, relating to the building itself, and to the early history of the city and State, with several portraits, and 56 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. quaint, crude paintings of ancient date, is exhibited here. Admis- sion free. Old South Meeting-House, on Washington Street, corner of Milk Street, has been called the "Sanctuary of Freedom." The ground on which it stands was the place where Governor John Winthrop had his home, and here he died in 1649. The land was afterward owned by Madam Mary Norton, wife of Rev. John Norton, Avho gave it in trust ' ' forever for the erecting of a house for their assembling them- selves together publiquely to worship God." The Old South Society worshiped here from 1669 to 1875, when they moved to their new place of worship on Boylston Street. The first meeting-house was a small cedar building, erected in 1670, and in this building Benjamin Franklin was baptized. In 1730 the present brick structure took the place of the first meeting-house. Although a place of worship, the old meeting-house had, at times, served other purposes. In the stir- ring times that preceded the Revolution, when Faneuil Hall was too small to hold the town meetings, the church opened its doors to the patriotic crowds. When the British occupied the town they desecrated the place and injured the building by using it as a place for cavalry drill. The fire of 1S72 came very near to the precious building, but it escaped de- struction, and it then served as a post office until the comijletion of the post office wing of the Government building. In 1S76 the build- ing was sold to be torn down and replaced by a business block. But the "Old South Preservation Committee," composed of twenty -five Boston women, came to the rescue and purchased it conditionally for $430,000. The meeting-house is now tised as a loan museum of historical relics, which include many interesting portraits, quaint old furniture, flags, and weapons. It is open daily, and the entrance fee (25 cents) becomes a part of the preservation fund. It is still some- times used for public meetings ; and the regular " Old South Lectures to Young People," on local history, given by eminent men, are features of the winter seasons. The tablet on the tower was placed in 1S67 : Old South Church gathered 1669 First House built 1670 This House erected 1729 Desecrated by British Troops 1775-6. OLD LAI^DMARKS. 57 The Old Corner Book Store.— After leaving the Old South it would be well for the visitor to cross Washington Street, and, going one block to the north, on the corner of School Street, he will find the oldest building now standing in Boston. On this ground was once the dwelling of Ann Hutchinson, the strong-minded woman who was banished for heresy in 1637. The present building bears the date of 1 7 12, and was the propertj^ of Thomas Crease, who used it as a dwelling and apothecary shop. It was occupied by different tenants, as a dwelling or for offices, until 1816, when Dr. Samuel Clarke, whose son, Rev. James Freeman Clarke, was born here, restored the old building to its original purpose of a drug store. Doctor Clarke was succeeded in 1828 by Messrs. Carter & Hendee, who first used the front as a book store, and it has been devoted to this purpose ever since. It has been occupied successively by the firms of Carter & Hendee, Allen & Ticknor, William D. Ticknor & Co., Ticknor & Fields, E. P. Dutton & Co., A. Williams & Co. , and, lastly, by its present tenants, Damrell & Upham. Through some of these firms it may be said to have become the progenitor of the great publishing houses of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Roberts Brothers, and of the music business of Oliver Ditson. Here James T. Fields, James R. Osgood, and Benjamin H. Ticknor began their careers as clerks, and here many of the famous writers and students of Boston love to gather and exchange greetings and ideas as they lingered in the quaint old building which has watched the coming and going of so many generations. King's Chapel, on Tremont Street, corner of School Street, is a plain and solid edifice of dark granite, with a massive square tower, surrounded by wooden Ionic columns. The intei'ior of the church, with its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the richly painted windows of the chancel, the antique pulpit and reading-desk, the mural tablets, and quaintly sculptured marble monuments that line the walls, will impress the visitor with its likeness to old English churches. The first King's Chapel was built in 1689 by the first Episcopal Church Society of Boston. This society had previously worshiped first in the town house and then in the Old South, under the protec- tion of Governor Andros, and to the great sorrow of the Congrega- tionalists. The first chapel was built of wood. In 1710 the building was enlarged. Pews were reserved for the Governor and British army and naval officers. The walls and pillars were hung with the 58 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. escutcheons of the king and roj-al governors, and upon the pulpit stood an hour-glass to mark the length of the sermons. An early description of Boston states that " King William and Queen Mary gave them a pulpit-cloth, a cushion, a rich set of plate for the com- munion table, and a piece of painting, reaching from the bottom to the top of the east end of the church, containing the Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed." The present chapel was completed in 1753. The plan embraced a steeple, but none was ever built. During the reign of Queen Anne it was called Queen's Chapel, and for a while after the Revolution the name was changed to Stone Chapel; but in time the love of the people for ancient local names caused them to return to King's Chapel, which has been retained ever since. After the evacuation the chapel re- mained closed until late in the year 1777, when the Old South Society, whose meeting-house had been so nearly destroyed by the British troops, occupied it, using it for nearly five years, while its own meeting-house was undergoing repairs. In 1782 the church was reopened by the remnant of the old society, with James Freeman as " reader;" and under his teaching the Unitarian faith was professed by the congregation, so that what had been the first Episcopal church in Boston became the first Unitarian. In 1787, Doctor Freeman was ordained rector, and thereupon the connection of the church with the American Protestant Episcopal church was terminated. Christ Church, Salem Street (North End), was built by the second Episcopal Society in Boston, and is the oldest church edifice now standing in the city. It was dedicated December 29, 1723, and its first rector was Rev. Timothy Cutter, D. D., who served until his death, August 7, 1765. This old church is a very interesting land- mark, as it retains, generally, its original appearance. This is the church from whose steeple it is supposed the 'lanterns of Paul Revere were hung out to warn the country of the march of the British troops on Lexington and Concord. A tablet on the front of the church, placed there October 17, 1578, bears this inscription : The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church, April 18, 1775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexington and Concord. But some very good authorities claim that this is a mistake, and that the North Church referred to by Paul Revere, in a narrative CHRIST CHURCH, "OLD NORTH "-Salem Stieet. OLD LANDMARKS. 59 /yhich he prepared twenty years after the events, was the North Church, then standing in North Square. But Christ Church was also known as the " North Church," and, to support its claim, brings evi- dence which shows that Capt. John Puling, one of the wardens of the church, received the signal to display the lanterns, and that Robert Newman, the sexton, hung them out. The original steeple was blown down in the great gale of 1804; but the present one was built immediately after the fall of the old, and is an accurate reproduction of that. Aside from the steeple there is nothing in the plain exterior of the church to attract attention. The interior retains most of its ancient fixtures and the original decorations have been reproduced. The high, small-paned windows, with deep seats; the balcony supported by pillars, the top " slaves' gallery," and the old-fashioned pews, have all been preserved. The bottom of the old pulpit, of hour-glass shape, is still there; but the upper part was given away by one of the church officials in 1820, and a modern affair fills its place. The organ is not the original one, which was imported from London in 1756, but it is inclosed in the original antique case. The clock below the rail has been doing duty since 1746. The figures of the cherubim in front of the organ and the chandeliers were taken from a French vessel by the privateer " Queen of Hungary," in 1746, and presented to the church by Captain Grushea ; its Bible, prayer books, and communion service, still in use, were given to it by King George II in 1733, and the silver bears the royal arms. The chime of bells, the sweetest and most musical the town has ever had, was brought from England in 1744. It is said to be the first chime in America. Old Burying- Grounds. The four oldest burying grounds in the city proper are still pre- served and faithfully cared for, though for several years they have been unused as places for burial. They are among the most interest- ing of the landmarks of early times, and speak eloquently co us of many of the founders of Boston. King's Chapel Burying Ground, on Tremont Street, between King's Chapel and the building of the Massachusetts Historical Society, is the oldest of these ancient cemeteries, and for thirty years was the only burial place of the town. The exact date of its estab- ishment is not known, but according to Shurtliff's "Topographical 60 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and Historical Description of Boston," the first burial here was on the 1 8th of February, 1630. The following reference to it is found in John Winthrop's record : " Cap' Welden, a hopeful younge gent & an experienced souldier dyed at Charlestowne of a consumption, and was buryed at Boston w"" military funeral." Here rest the remains of Gov. John Winthrop and his son and grandson, who were governors of Connecticut; of Governor Shirley, Lady Andros (the wife of Governor Andros); John Cotton, John Davenport, the founder of New Haven, Conn. ; John Oxenbridge and Thomas Bridge, pastors of the First Church, and other well-known personages of the early days. In one of the tombs here were deposited the remains of the wife of John Winslow, who, as Mary Chilton, according to tradition, was the first woman to touch the shore at Cape Cod, springing from the boat as it approached the shore. There are many quaint old gravestones in the yard; but some of them have been moved from their original positions and set up as edgestones to paths. One of these stones has a most remarkable history. At some time the stone was removed from the grave it marked and was lost. In 1S30, when some excava- tions were being made near the Old State House, it was found sev- eral feet below the surface of State Street. It is of green stone and is inscribed : HERE : LYETH THE : BODY : OF : MR WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 58 YEARS : DEPARTED THIS : LIFE : AUGUST THE [28] 1658. On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry : HEAR . SLEAPS . THAT BLESED . ONE . WHOES . LIEF GOD . HELP . VS . ALL . TO . LIVE THAT . so . WHEN . TIEM . SHALL . BE THAT . WE . THIS . WORLD . MUST . LIUE WE . EVER . MAY . BE . HAPPY WITH . KLESED . WILLIAM . PADDY. Copps Hill Burying Ground, on Hull Street, a short distance from Old Christ Church, was the second burial place established in Boston. It was first used for interment in 1660, and was several times enlarged. Here are the graves of Doctors Increase, Cotton and Samuel Mather ; Rev. Dr. Andrew Eliot of the New North Church, Mrs. Mary Baker, a sister of Paul Revere ; Chief Justice OLD LANDMARKS. 61 Parker, and many who were prominent in the early history of the town. During the Siege the inclosure was occupied by the British as a military station. The soldiers used the gravestones as targets, and the marks of the bullets may yet be seen on some of them. A stone which seems to have been particularly sought out by the sol- diers in their desecration of the ground bears the following record : Here lies buried in a Stone Grave lo feet deep Capt. DANIEL MALCOM Mercht who departed this Life October 23d 1769 Aged 44 Years A true Son of Liberty a Friend to the Publick an Enemy to oppression and one of the foremost in opposing the Revenue Acts on America. Captain Malcom would be called ai.',muggler at the present time, for the above inscription refers to his landing a valuable cargo of wines without paying duty upon it. But as the tax was regarded as unjust and oppressive, the citizens approved and lauded the act. The oldest stone in the graveyard is believed to be one bearing date of 1661, erected to the memory of the grandchildren of William Copp^ for whom the hill was named — an industrious cobbler M'ho lived near by. Several stones bear earlier dates, but these were altered from the original, the date 1690 in one case having been changed to 1620, and 1695 to 1625. One of the oldest stones records the death of " Captain Thomas Lake, who was perfidiously slain by ye Indians at Kennebec Aug. 14, 1676." Captain Lake was a commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company in 1662 and 1674, and, according to the story, the slit deeply cut in his gravestone was filled with the melted bullets taken from his body. The metal was long ago chipped away by relic hunters. There are several slabs bearing armorial devices, which the superintendent of the yard is always ready to point out to visitors. During the summer months the gates are throAvn open, and the people are allowed access to the cool, shaded grounds. At times, when the gates are closed, admission can be obtained by application to the superintendent, who lives in the neighborhood. The high, rough stone wall was placed when it 62 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. became necessary, in the improvement of this section of the city, to cut down that portion of the hill without the limits of the burying ground. Old Granary Burying Ground, on the north side of Tremont Street, between Park Street Church and the site of the old Tremont House, is the most interesting of the old burying grounds of Boston. It was established in 1660, at the same time that the Copps Hill Bury- ing Ground was laid out. The ground was formerly a part of the Common, and it received the name it bears because of its proximity to the old town granary, which stood where the Park Street Church now stands. The list of the distinguished dead who rest here includes nine governors of the Colony and State ; three of the signers of the Declaration of Independence ; Paul Revere, the patriot ; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the market house and hall that bears his name ; Judge Samuel Sewall, six doctors of divinity, the first mayor of Boston, and many others. Upon the front of one of the tombs, on the side next to Park Street Church, was once a marble slab with the inscription, " No. 16, Tomb of Hancock ;" but nothing now marks the resting-jjlace of the first signer of the Declaration of Independence, and the first Governor of Massachusetts under the Constitution. In another part of the j-ard is the grave of Samuel Adams, "the father of the Revolution." Near the Tremont House corner are the graves of the victims of the " Boston massacre of 1770." The most conspicuous monument here is one erected in 1827, which marks the graves of the parents of Benjamin Franklin. It contains the epitajih, composed by their illustrious son, "in filial regard to their memory." This is the inscription : They lived lovingly together in wed lock fifty-five years, and without an estate, or any gainful employment, by constant labor and honest industry maintained a large family comfortablj', and brought up thirteen children and seven grandchildren respectably. From this instance, reader, be encouraged to diligence in thy calling, and? distrust not Providence. He was a pious and prudent man ; She a discreet and virtuous woman. The names of some of the distinguished persons buried here are OLD LANDMARKS. 63 displayed upon the bronze tablets fixed upon the gates of the main entrance to the yard. The high, carved gateway, in the summer time, is picturesque in a mantle of ivy. Entrance to the yard may be obtained upon application to the superintendent. Inquire at health office. No. 12 Beacon Street. The Central Burying Ground, on the Boylston Street side of the Common, is the least interesting of the ancient cemeteries of the town. It was laid out in 1756, but the oldest stone, with the excep- tion of one which was removed from some other ground, is dated 1761. Stuart, the portrait-painter, was buried here, and Monsieur Julien, the inventor of the famous soup that bears his name. Julien's public house was for some years on the corner of Milk and Congress streets. He died in 1805, but his soup is still flourishing. It is sup' posed that several of the British soldiers who died from wounds received at Bunker Hill, or from disease in the barracks during the Siege, were buried here; but there is nothing to prove this, and the statement is questioned. Drake says that they were buried in a common trench, and that many of the remains were exhumed when changes in the northwest corner of the yard were made. This bury- ing ground formerly extended to Boylston Street, and it was con- tracted to its present dimensions when the Boylston Street mall was laid out in 1839. V. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSE- MENTS. Boston is known to the theatrical world as one of the best show towns in the countrj-. This is the more remarkable, as it was many- years after the play-house was flourishing in other cities before the Puritan City consented to its establishment in her midst. In 1750 an act was passed " to prevent stage plays and other theatrical enter- tainments," imposing heavy fines on the owner of the premises in which such entertainments should be given in defiance of the laAv, and upon the spectators and actors as well. Several unsuccessful attempts were made to secure the repeal of this act, during the years succeeding, before it finally disappeared from the statute books. During the past few years, theaters have multiplied with marvel- ous rapidity. TM'enty years ago, the Boston, the Globe, the Museum, the Howard, and a few cheap variety houses, were the onlj' theaters in the city. To this list have since been added the Tremont, the Columbia, the Park, the Bowdoin Square, the Castle Square, and Keith's. Boston now has about fifteen theaters, properly so called, besides several places where similar entertainments are given. Alphabetical List of Theaters. Bijou Theater, 543 Washington Street. Light attractions. The Boston Museum, at 28 Tremont Street, between Court and School streets, is the oldest theater in the city. Its history dates back to 1S41, and the present substantial granite structure has been occupied since 1846. The interior arrangements of the theater have been several times reconstructed and improvements made, and it is one of the best equipped play-houses of the day. It is noted for its production of new plays from foreign authors for the first time on the American stage, as well as for its magnificent revivals of the (64) THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 65 standard English comedies. The Museum maintained the stock system until 1S93, and many famous actors and actresses have been, at different times, connected with its company. It has had uninterrupted success for over half a century, a record that can not be paralleled by the history of any other place of amusement in the United States. It has a seating capacity of 1,500. Prices range from $1 to 35 cents, and some of the best seats in the house can be had for 50 cents. Boston Theater, 539 Washington, between West and Avery streets. This theater was opened in 1S54, and it was, for many years, the largest and most magnificent play-house in America. The exterior of the building is unpretentious, and almost buried from sight behind the adjacent buildings ; but within it is, in every respect, substantial and imposing. The lobbies are spacious, the staircases broad, and every convenience for the comfort of the audience is sup- plied. The auditorium is go feet in diameter, and reaches a height of 54 feet. The stage is 85 feet deep, and 66 feet high to the fly-floor. The curtain opening is 48x41 feet. The house seats 3,000 persons. There is a wide front entrance on Washington Street, and a rear one on Mason Street, and the means of egress are so ample that 1,000 persons can be dismissed in a minute. The prices range from $1.50 to 50 cents. Bow^doin Square Theater. — This theater is located in Bowdoin Square, and was opened to the public in February, 1892. It has a broad, handsome lobby and auditorium decorated in old ivory and gold. The stage is large, and the proscenium opening is 36 feet wide by 32 feet high. It will seat 1,500 people, and the prices range from $1.50 to 25 cents. The Castle Square Theater, opened in November, 1894, occupies the fortress-like building at 421 Tremont Street. This theater is ab- solutely fireproof, and, in comfort and beauty, it has no superior. Fronting on the square formed by the junction of Tremont, Ferdi- nand, and Chandler streets, with electric cars to all parts of the city and suburbs passing its door, it is one of the most accessible places of amusement in Boston. The stage combines every improve- ment at present known to the theatrical world. The space is ample, providing for 40 feet proscenium opening, 50 feet to back wall, 70 feet between walls, and 85 feet high, and, in addition, broad en- trances on each side of the stage lead to the streets adjoining. A 66 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. cavalcade of horses can enter at one side, make the circuit of the stage, and go out without that jostling which has spoiled so many stage pictures. The theater cost $1,500,000. It seats 1,700 people. Prices are popular, and a good seat can be had for 50 cents. The Columbia Theater occupies an entire block on Washington Street, and comprises the numbers from 978 to 986, inclusive. In de- sign it follows the Moorish style, and its towers rise above the sur- rounding buildings. The interior finish and the furnishings are in harmony with the exterior architecture. The line of sight through- out the house is perfect, so that it matters not whether the spectator occupies the front row of the orchestra or a corner in the upper bal- cony, a complete view of the stage is had in either place. The Co- lumbia will seat 1,600, and the prices range from $1.50 to 25 cents. Dudley Street Opera House, 113 Dudley Street. Devoted to private entertainments and other special uses. Grand Museum.— This is located on the corner of Washington and Dover streets. It is a variety theater with continuous perform- ance from I to 10.30 p. M. Popular prices, 10 and 20 cents. The Grand Opera House is at 11 76 Washington Street, on the corner of Ashland Place. This is the chief South End theater, and performances are given by a stock company and by combinations. Prices range from $1 to 25 cents. The Hollis Street Theater occupies the site of the old Hollis Street Church, at No. 10 Hollis Street. It was reconstructed from the church, and was opened November 9, 18S5. It is one of the most thoroughly built edifices of its kind in the city, and it is especially well arranged in the particulars of safety from fire and means of quick and easy egress. It has a large auditorium, beautifully decorated and well lighted. The stage is spacious, and the pieces produced here are well mounted. The auditorium has a seating capacity of i ,600. The prices range from $1.50 to 25 cents. The Howard Athenaeum, 34 Howard Street, near Scollay Square, was first opened as a theater on the evening of October 13, 1845. During the following winter the theater was burned, but it was immediately rebuilt. In its early days it was the representative theater of the city. Since 186S it has been a variety theater. It scats 1,500. Prices range from 25 to 75 cents. There is a continuous performance from i to 10 r. m. Huntington Hall is in the Rogers Building of the Institute of THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 67 Technology. It is where the Lowell Institute lectures are given and is the place of meeting of the Society of Arts. Horticultural Hall, an ornamental building of white granite, which stands on Tremont Street, between Bromfield and Bosworth streets, is the headquarters of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the country, dating from 1S29. The exterior of the building is massive and elegant in proportion. The granite statues of Ceres, surmounting the central division of the fagade, of Flora on the north buttress of the second story, and of Pomona on the south buttress, were executed by Martin Milmore. On the second and third floors, respectively, are the halls of the society, in which its exhibitions are given. These halls are also often let for various classes of entertainments and for fashionable balls. The Hub Amusement Company, 189 Hanover Street, maintain a museum of curiosities and a continuous-performance variety show. Loriraer Hall. — An auditorium in Tremont Temple. Keith's New Theater, 547 Washington Street, is the prettiest theater in Boston, and one of the prettiest in this country. It is a variety theater, with a continuous performance from 10.30 a. m. to 10.30 r. M. Even people who do not care for variety shows enjoy going to Keith's for the delight and exhilaration afforded by the gayest and most brilliant example of the rococo style in the city. "The lobby of this theater," says a recent writer, " is worthy of a French palace in the Louis XV period." Admission from 25 cents to f r.50. The Lyceum Theater is at 665 Washington Street, just south of Boylston. This is another variety theater, with continuous perform- ance from I to 10.30 p. M. Popular prices from 10 to 50 cents. Music Hall. — The main entrance to this hall is from Winter Street. This is a plain brick building, without architectural pretensions. It was built by private enterprise and opened in 1852. It is 130 feet long, 78 feet wide, and 65 feet high. Among the decorations are a fine statue of Apollo, various casts presented by Charlotte Cushman, and a magnificent statue of Beethoven, by Crawford, which stands on the platform. The last mentioned was presented by Charles C. Perkins. The acoustic properties of the hall are perfect, but the old Music Hall is a dreary, uncomfortable place, which has lost its hand- some feature, the "big organ," and never can be made to look festive again. Here are given the grand oratorio performances of the Handel and Haydn Society, the Symphony concerts of the Harvard Musical Association, the concerts of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, 68 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. the occasional concerts of the AjdoUo, Boylston, and other noted clubs. During the early summer season the popular promenade concerts are nightly given by a picked orchestra. These are conducted some- what after the Continental fashion, with the accompaniments of beer, tobacco, Strauss waltzes, occasional groups of Harvard boys, and the foliage of prim little spruce trees. They are called " Pops." Mechanics' Hall is in the magnificent building of the Massachu- setts Charitable Mechanic Association, on Huntington Avenue, corner of West Newton Street. It was built especially for the public exhi- bitions (held about once in three years) of American manufactures and mechanic arts. [See MASSAcriusETTS Charitable Mechanic Association in Chapter VHL] It contains sittings for 8,000 people, and is frequently let for grand opera and other large entertainments. It has all the conveniences for large gatherings and a fine organ. Museum (Austin & Stone's). — This is a dime museum and variety theater, located at 4 Tremont Row. Continuous performance. Palace Theater, 109 Court Street. This is another of the low- priced variety theaters, giving a continuous i^erformance. Park Theater. — This is a small theater, located at 117 Wash- ington Street. It was constructed from the old Beethoven Hall and dates from 1879. It is a high-class combination house, and the names of many great actors and actresses are associated with its stage. Though the house is small, the space is so thoroughly utilized that seats are provided for over 1,100 persons. Parker Hall. — An auditorium in Tremont Temple, where the Twentieth Century Club's and other lectures are heard and Sunday services are held. Pilgrim Hall, 14 Beacon St. — Religious meetings and conventions. Steinert Hall. — An auditorium in Boylston Street, near Park Square, devoted mainly to music, but also used for lectures, etc. Tremont Theater. — This is located at 176 Tremont Street. It was built for Henry E. Abbey and John B. Schoeffel. The audi- torium is 75 feet high, of the same width, and 80 feet deep. It is fashioned on the plan of a mammoth shell. On the main floor there are no flat surfaces of any length. By this arrangement the hearing, as well as the sight, gains. The ten oddly-fashioned private boxes on either side of the proscenium give a novel effect to the interior. The decoration of the main ceiling is modernized Renaissance, treated in Gobelin-ta^jestry effect, and the coloring TREMONT TEMPLE. Tremont Street near School Street Mansion House GREENFIELD, MASS. One of the leading Hotels in Western Mass» LIBERALLY MANAGED /GREENFIELD is a charming old New England town only five hours from New York City, on the Boston & Maine R.R., the direct line to the White Mountains, and but three hours from Boston or Saratoga Springs, via Fitchburg R.R. A DELIGHTFUL SUMMER RESORT SPECIAL RATES FOR JUNE, JULY AND AUGUST Write for Information " The Wellington " NORTH ADAMS, MASS. The leading hotel in the city. Modern and ftilly ttp-to-date in every respect. Opened November,! 899 The Pequoi^ House ATHOL, MASS. Railway Eating- Houses on Fitchburg R.R. >.* ..•* W. E. WOOD Proprietor W0^ THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 69 of the walls is in harmonizing shades. The stage is 73 by 45 feet, with a height of 69 feet to the rigging-loft. The house has 2,000 seats. The main entrance is exceptionally fine, and forms a broad vestibule, lobby, and foyer. Prices range from $1.50 to 50 cents. The Turnhalle, at 29 Middlesex Street, is the headquarters of the Turners. It has a pretty little theater, in which German plays are occasionally given. Tremont Temple, 82 Tremont Street, is a fine new building erected on the site of the old Temple, which was destroyed by fire in the year 1S93. Ic is intended to be occupied on Sundays as a place of worship, and occasionally on the evenings of other days for concerts, lectures, etc., in Lorimer and Parker halls. Museums and Collections. Boston Athenaeum, 10 Beacon Street. There is a collection of valuable paintings and statuary in the grand vestibule and staircase of the Athenaeum Building, which can be seen by visitors on any week-day without charge. The library is a private one, and can be visited only upon the introduction of a member. Boston Museum, 28 Tremont Street, between School and Court streets. This is the collection of statuary, paintings, coins, etc., which gave its name to the theater. Admission, 35 cents. Barnum Museum —Tuft's College, College Hill, Medford. This fine natural history collection was the gift of the late P. T. Barnum, the famous amusement manager, and is destined to become one of the most interesting museums in the United States, additions being frequently made to it. Among the unique features of the collection is the stuffed skin of the famous ele^Dhant, "Jumbo," and many other rare and curious specimens. Bunker Hill Museum. — At the base of Bunker Hill Monument, Charlestown District, there is kept a collection of interesting Colonial and Revolutionary relics. Botanical Garden, Cambridge. This is one of the largest and finest collections of plants and flowers in the country and is free to the public daily. Take an "Arlington" car to Linnean Street, via Harvard Square. It was here that Prof. Asa Gray lived and worked. The Boston Natural History Museum is in the building of the Natural History Society, corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets, and is maintained by this society. The collection of preserved mammals, birds, fishes, shells, minerals, and other specimens here 70 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. exhibited is one of the most valuable and interesting in the country, and the society's library and lecture-courses are among the foremost educational influences for science in Boston. It is free to the public from 9 A. M. to 5 p. m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On other daj^s it is open from 9 a. m. to 5 r. m., and an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. Faneuil Hall Collection of Historical Paintings. — Merchants' Row and Faneuil Hall Square. The thousands who visit this shrine of American patriotism will find an interesting collection of historical paintings and portraits. It is open to visitors every day (excej^t Sun- day) from 9 A. M. to 4 p. jsi. [See " Fanueil Hall," in Chapter IV.] Historic Genealogical Collection, 18 Somerset Street. At the rooms of the New England Historic Genealogical Society may be seen a large and valuable collection of old engravings, prints, and books, possessing great interest for historians, genealogists, antiqua- rians, and all who are interested in the genealogies of New England. The rooms are open to the public, without charge, every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 p. M. except Saturdays, when the hours are from 9 A. M. to I p. M. Krino Grotto, Museum, and Gardens, Wellesley. William Emer- son Baker, a few years since, converted his noted Ridge Hill Farms into one of the most unique pleasure-grounds. There are rare and beautiful plants, a zoological collection, aquarium, underground gar- dens and ferneries, grottoes, and various other novel features. A nominal admission fee is charged. Massachusetts Historical Museum, Boylston Street and Fenway. The Massachusetts Historical Society has here a rare collection of curiosities. Among them are the swords of Sir William Pepperell, Miles Standish, Colonel Prescott, and others; a phial of the tea washed ashore after its having been thrown into the harbor at the " Boston tea party"; an oak chair brought over in " The Mayflower " ; the diary of Judge Samuel Sewall ; King Philip's samp-bowl; portraits of Governors Winthrop, Endicott, and Winslow, and many other objects of interest. Open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Admission free. Museum (Agassiz) of Comparative Zoology, Oxford Street, Cam- bridge. This great museum, which has no equal in America, was founded under the direction of Louis Agassiz, one of the foremost naturalists of the world, who was associated with its direction until his death. The exhibition rooms comprise the synoptic rooms, the rooms containing the collections of mammals, birds, reptiles. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 71 fishes, moUusks, Crustacea, insects, radiates, sponges, protozoa, faunal collections of North and South America, the Indo-Asiatic, the African, and other realms. Here, also, is a collection of glass flowers, a most wonderful display of imitations of flowers, made by Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka of Germany, to Avhom alone the process of making and coloring is known. The museum belongs to Harvard University. Open to visitors, every week-day throughout the year, from 9 to 5. Admission free. The Old South Museum. — In the Old South Church, corner 01 Washington and Milk streets, is quite a valuable collection of Revo- lutionary and historical relics. The museum is open on week-days from 9 A. Ji. to 6 p. m. Admission, 25 cents. [See Old South Meet- ing-House, in Chapter IV.] Old State House Collection, Washington, corner of State Street. The upper portion of the Old State House is now utilized for exhibi- tion rooms of relics of historical interest, under the control of the Bostonian Society. Paintings, portraits, antiquities, etc. , form a very interesting collection which every visitor should see. Open to the public every day, except Sunday, from 9.30 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. Ad- mission free. Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology, Cambridge. This was founded by George Peabody, who gave, in all, $150,000; of this sum, $60,000 were reserved for a building, which was finished in 1S77. Its purpose is the preservation and display of everything relating to the aboriginal, prehistoric, human life of this continent, and it exhibits a great variety of implements, ornaments, and utensils of stone, clay, bone, shell, and metal, models of abo- riginal houses, etc. One feature is Dr. C. C. Abbott's famous seines of paleolithic relics from the Trenton, N. J., gravel-beds ; another is models of cliff-dweller houses and of the ruined structures of Central America. The building adjoins the Agassiz Museum. In July, 1891, the government of Honduras gave to the museum, by a special edict, the charge of the antiquities of that country for ten years, with the privilege of bringing to the museum one-half of the collection obtained by explorations of the ancient cities and burial places within the borders of the country. The Serpent Mound Park, in Adams County, Ohio, containing the great Serpent Mound, is the property of the Peabody Museum. Open to the public every week-day from 9 to 5 o'clock. Admission free. 72 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON'. The Warren Museum of Natural History is at 82 Chestnut Street. Tiiis is a private museum, formed, principally, from col- lections made by Dr. J. C. Warren, the noted surgeon. Among the curious objects on exhibition are the skeleton of the mastodon (the only perfect skeleton of the kind anywhere), and many other skele- tons ; casts from various objects in the British Museum, mummies, casts of eggs of mammoth birds, and many other objects of great interest. The collection is preserved in a fireproof building erected for the purpose. Open only to invited guests. Music and Musical Societies. The atmosphere of Boston is full of music, and it is the most assid- uously cultivated of all the arts. The regular weekly concerts of the Symphony Orchestra, with the still more popular "rehearsals," draw enthusiastic audiences from early in the autumn until late in the spring. The opera seasons are brief and more or less uncertain; but Boston makes the most of what she can get and hopes for better times. A recent writer says that if " a stranger wished to get a glimpse of a typical old-time Bostonese crowd he could do no better than to attend a Christmas oratorio by the Handel and Haydn Society in the Music Hall, and, without flippancy, it may be said that he would hear heavenly music sung as well as it is likely to be sung here below. An eminent musical critic has made the remark that if there were three of him he might make himself 'go around 'so as to cover the concerts that are given in the season, and this conveys but a hint of the wonderful activity in the musical life of the community." The following is a list of the principal musical societies of the city: Alphabetical List of Musical Societies. The Apollo Club was formed in 1871, by a few leading singers in church choirs in the city, for the performance of part-songs and cho- ruses for male voices. The number of active members varies from sixty to eighty. The number of associate members is limited to 500. The associate members, for an annual assessment, receive tickets to all the concerts given by the club. Its membership has included the best vocalists of Boston among the active members, and the success of the club nas been such that similar clubs have been formed in many other cities, some of them taking the same name. No ptiblic concerts arc given, and no tickets to its performances are sold. It has convenient club-rooms and a hall for its weekly rehearsals. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 73 The Boylston Club is a private musical society, which was organ- ized in 1872, for the study of music for male voices only. In 1S76 the club was enlarged by the formation of an auxiliary chorus for ladies. It gives cantatas, masses, psalms, and four-part songs of the great composers, and leaves oratorios to the Handel and Haydn Society. The active membership now numbers nearly 200. The rehearsals are given in the Mechanics' Hall, in the building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics' Association, and its concerts in Music Hall. Admission is by tickets, obtainable only from members of the club. The Boston Symphony Orchestra is a permanent organization, established through the liberality of Mr. Henry Lee Higginson. During the season it gives weekly concerts in Music Hall. It is doing a great deal toward educating the people in classical music. The Cecilia Society was originally formed in 1874, within the Har- vard Musical Association, for part-singing for mixed voices. Until 1876 the Cecilia took part in Harvard Symphony concerts only; but in that year it was reorganized and established on a new and inde- pendent basis, with 125 active members. Later associate members were added, the limit being fixed at 250, who bear the expenses of the association, receiving tickets to the concerts, of which four are given in each season. Admission to the concerts is secured only by membership or by invitation of members. The Orpheus Musical Society dates from 1853. It is the leading musical association among the Germans of Boston. At first only Germans were admitted to membership, then Americans were per- mitted to become associate members, and now, for several years, they have been welcomed to full membership. The Orpheus is a social as well as a musical club, and its rooms are the scene of many a pleasant festival. During each season it gives several concerts. The Harvard Musical Association was organized in 1837, to "pro- mote progress and knowledge of the best music," and it has done much toward fulfilling its mission. It has a valuable library of music, and works of history, theory, and general musical literature, open to members only. The Handel and Haydn Society. — This association, with a single exception, is the oldest musical society in the country — the oldest being the Stoughton Musical Society, formed in 1786. The Handel and Haydn was established in 1815, originating in a meeting to which were invited all who were interested in " the subject of culti- 74 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. vating and improving a correct taste in the performance of sacred music." Its first oratorio was given in King's Chapel, on Christmas Eve of 1S15, with a chorus of 100 voices, only ten of them being female voices. Its orchestra then consisted of less than a dozen per- formers and an organ accompaniment. From that time to the present the society has kept up its efforts to cultivate a popular taste for the best music. It has a membership of about 500. Its concerts are given in the Music Hall. Athletics. There are several private gymnasiums in Boston, two of the best of which are the Allen Gymnasiuni for- Women and Children, and the Posse Gymnasmni, for both men and women. The former was founded in 1878 b}' Miss Mary E. Allen. It consists of a school for body training (six years), and a college of gymnastics for the educa- tion of teachers. The school, 42 Botolph Street, is provided with bowling alleys, and tennis courts, and with Turkish baths. The Posse Gymnasium, at 23 Irvington Street, was established in 1890, and in- cludes a normal school for gymnastic training. It is fitted with Swedish and other apparatus. Fencing is among the branches taught. The YoiDig Men's CJiristian Association, at 458 Boylston Street; the Young Men's Christian Union, 48 Boylston Street, and the Young Women's Christian Association, 40 Berkeley Street, all have large and finely equipped gymnasiums. The Boston Athletic Association is one of the largest organiza- tions of its class in the country. It occupies a fine club-house on Exeter Street, corner of Blagden, which is one of the best equipped of its kind in the country. It has tennis, racquet, and hand-ball courts, fencing and boxing rooms, billiard-rooms, bowling alleys, Turkish bath, and swimming tank, and a great gymnasium provided with the most approved apparatus. There are also all the regular features of a modern club, including a large restaurant and supper- rooms. The club was organized in 1888, and has over 2,000 members. Field Sports. Boston is an enthusiastic patron of field sports which are designed as games for pleasure rather than exercise in strength and skill. THE A TENS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 75 Baseball is played in Boston every day during the season, and many clubs are devoted to this sport. The Boston Baseball Grounds are at Columbus Avenue and Walpole Street. The day and hour of all games are advertised in the daily newsjDapers. Other Clubs. — There are numberless Fencing, Cricket, Bicycle, Racquet, Tennis, Yachting, Roiuing, and kindred clubs, many hav- ing fine club-houses, and information concerning them is easily obtained. The Riding Club is the latest and most fashionable addition. Lectures in Boston are frequent, and the advertisements in the daily papers, especially The Transcript, The Globe, and The Herald, should be scrutinized for information by any one interested. Chicker- ing and Huntington halls, and the halls of the Y. M. C. A., the Y. M. C. U., and the Y. W. C. A., are the usual places for their delivery. The Lowell Institute Lectures, which are a permanent feature of educational w^ork, are intended to promote the moral, intellectual, and physical instruction and education of the inhabitants. Tickets may be obtained as advertised in the newspapers. Technical lectures on mechanics are given every year at the Wells Memorial Institute, 987 Washington Street. The details of the courses are announced in October. The Y. M. C. A. , the Y. M. C. U. , the Y. W. C. A. , and the Woman's Educational and Industrial Union, give courses of lectures at stated times during the year. VI. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. Public Schools. In 1635, less than five years after the settlement of Boston, a free school was opened for " the teaching and nourishing of chil- dren," and thus Boston is entitled to the honor of laying the foundation of the free-school system of America. Boston may well point with pride to her public schools, which, according to recent statistics, comprise 603 general and special schools, with a registration of 72,104, an average daily attendance of 56,364, and nearly 1,500 teachers. Among the special schools are the Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes, and a number of evening schools for the teaching of elementary and classical branches and drawing. The Boys' Latin and English High School will interest visitors more than any of the other public schools, because of its tradi- tions and the many eminent men who have been among its pupils and graduates. It occupies the block bounded by Dart- mouth, Montgomery, and Clarendon streets and Warren Avenue. The entrance to the Latin School is on the Warren Avenue front, and that to the English High School on the Montgomery Street side. The structure is of brick, with sandstone trimmings. Most of the exterior ornamentation consists of terra-cotta heads in the gables of the dormer windows, and terra-cotta frieze courses, the work of S. H. Bartlett, the sculptor. Both the main vestibules are decorated with statuary. On the Latin School side is the marble monument, by Richard S. Greenough, dedicated to those graduates of the school who took part in the Civil War. On the (76) 17 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, ETC. Tl English High School side is a marble group, by Benzoni, of the 'Flight from Pompeii," the gift of Henry P. Kidder, who was a graduate of the school. William P. Clough was the architect of the building, which was dedicated February 22, 1881. The Latin School is the oldest school in the country, antedating Harvard by nearly two years. Its first school-house stood on ground now covered, in part, by King's Chapel, and gave School Street its name. Among the honored names enrolled as pupils at different periods in its history, we find those of Benjamin Franklin, John Hancock, Samuel Adams, Robert Treat Paine, William Hooper, Charles Sumner, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Rt. Rev. John B. Fitzpatrick, Revs. Cotton Mather, Henry Ward Beecher, Edward Everett Hale, and Bishop Phillips Brooks. The English High School was opened in May, 1821, to meet a want which was ex- pressed in the report of a committee appointed to consider the feasibility of establishing an English classical school. " The mode of education now adopted," ran the report, "and the branches of knowledge that are taught at our English grammar schools, are not sufficiently extensive, nor otherwise calculated to bring the powers of the mind into operation, nor to qualifying a youth to fill, usefully and respectably, many of those stations, both public and private, in which he may be placed. A parent who wishes to give a child an education that shall fit him for active life, and shall serve as a foundation for eminence in his profession, whether mercantile or mechanical, is under the necessity of giving him a different education from any which our public schools can now furnish. Hence, many children are separated from their parents and sent to private academies in this vicinity to acquire that instruction which can not be obtained at the public seminaries." The school more than fulfilled the hopes of its projectors, and is to-day one of the " model " schools of the United States. The Girls' Latin and High School, formerly in its own building at West Newton and Pembroke streets, now occupies what was formerly the Chauncy Hall School, on Boylston Street. The Girls' High School M^SiS, established in 1855, in connection with the Normal School. In 1872 the two were separated. The Girls' Latin School was estab- lished in 1878, to provide a training school for girls similar to that given the boys at the old Latin School. The building is well ventilated and roomy, and every facility is afforded for thorough work in the different 78 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. departments. A large collection of casts of sculpture and statuary, the gifts of admiring friends, is among the treasures of the school, and is of especial service to this institution, a large proportion of whose pupils devote themselves to educational or professional work. Among the Grammar Schools which are especially worthy of notice are the Dwight, the Everett, and the Prince. The last named was the first school-house in New England arranged on the German and Austrian plan. By this plan the rooms on each floor are placed on one side of a long corridor, instead of around a common hall in the middle. Among the advantages claimed for this method of construction are better ventilation, better light, and a more direct connection between the corridors and street entrances. The Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes is on the east side of Newbury Street, next to the South Congregational Church, which stands at the corner of Exeter Street. It is in an attractive building of face-brick and block free-stone fagade, with a high -arched entrance- way. The pupils are here taught to communicate by articulation rather than by signs. They are also trained in Sloyd carving, in drawing and penmanship, and other useful arts. The Boston Normal School is in the third story of the Rice School Building, on Dartmouth Street. It was established in the city of Boston in 1852, by the city council, on the recommendation of the school committee. It is interesting to note the ground on which this action was based. In the language of a member of the school com- mittee : "The friends for further opportunities for the graduates of our girls' grammar schools," fearing to revive an old controversy, hesitated to move for a high school ; and, therefore, in the faith that they should find no opposition to the preparation of female teachers, established a normal school. "It was found, however, that girls tresh from the grammar schools were not fit candidates for normal training." So, in 1S54, the school committee, with the view of adapting the school to the double purpose of giving its pupils high school and normal instruction, caused " the introduction of a few additional branches of study, and a slight alteration in the arrangement of the course," and called it the Girls' High and Normal School. But the normal features were soon quite overshadowed by the high school work. To remedy this defect, a training department was organized in 1864, and located in Somerset Street ; hwX in 1870 this department EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 79 was transferred to the then new building, on West Newton Street, occupied by the Girls' High and Normal School. The school was continued under the double name of Girls' High and Normal School till 1S72. At this time the school committee, finding that the normal element had again been crowded out by the high school work, and that the school had almost lost its distinctively professional character, " separated the two courses, and returned the normal school to its original condition, as a separate school. Since then its work has been " giving professional instruction to young women who intend to become teachers in the public schools of Boston. " Boston University. — This institution, for the liberal education of both sexes, was incorporated in 1869 by Lee Claflin, Isaac Rich, and Jacob Sleeper. Its headquarters are in Jacob Sleeper Hall, on Som- erset Street, near Beacon. It embraces three colleges, three profes- sional schools, and a post-graduate department of universal science. In Jacob Sleeper Hall are the College of Liberal Arts and the School of All Sciences; near at hand, in Ashburton Place, is the Law School Building; at 72 Mount Vernon Street is the Theological School (Methodist), and the School of Medicine, connected with the Massa- chusetts Homoeopathic Hospital, is at the south end. The College of Music was, in 1891, adopted by the New England Conservatory of Music, and constitutes the graduate department of that institution. The College of Agriculture was established in 1875 by an agreement with the Massachusetts Agricultural College at Amherst. The School of Law was the first in this country to present a three-years' course of study. The School of Medicine was also the first to estab- lish a four-years' course of instruction, and which, at the end of three- year courses, confers the degree of Bachelor of Medicine or Bachelor of Surgery. Most of the faculty of the School of Medicine are homoeo- pathic in theory, but its statutes provide for the cooperation of any incorported State medical society in the United States in the testing and graduation of students. The School of All Sciences was organ- ized in 1874, and it is open to graduates only. It is designed, first, for the benefit of bachelors of arts, philosophy, or science, of whatso- ever college, who may desire to receive post-graduate instruction; and, secondly, to meet the wants of graduates in law, theology, medi- cine, or other professional courses, who may wish to supplement their studies with higher education. It has about twelve hundred matriculated students, nearly one-third of whom are women. 80 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Boston College, on Harrison Avenue, adjoining the Church of the Immaculate Conception, was founded, in iS6o, by the Fathers of the Society of Jesus, and it is conducted by that organization. It has power to confer all degrees tisually conferred by colleges, except medical. It presents a long and thorough course of instruction, in which classical studies occupy a prominent place. It enrolls about 400 students, and has a corps of nineteen or twenty professors. The college buildings are plain brick structures, covering quite a large area. Chauncy Hail School, now quartered in the Young Men's Chris- tian Association Building, is the oldest private school in Boston, and was founded in 1828. It was first established in Chauncy Street, from which circumstance it gained its name. It is for both sexes, and carries the pupil from the kindergarten, through all the departments, to the college preparatory. It was the first school in Boston to adopt the military drill. Its former building, on Boylston Street, near Dartmouth, is now occupied by the Girls' Latin School, for which it is well adapted by its careful arrangement for sanitary conditions and the convenience of teachers and pupils. Harvard University. — On October 28, 1636, the General Court of Massachusetts Bay voted "to give ;i^4oo towards a schoole or col- ledge." This sum represented an amount equal to the whole years' tax of the entire colony. In 1637 the college was ordered established at Newton, and the name was changed to Cambridge. In this same year Nathaniel Eaton was appointed master of the school, and under his superintendence a small wooden house was built near the site of the present Wadsworth House. It had about an acre of land around it and some thirty apple trees. Eaton proved to be a harsh and penurious manager, and the scholars rebelled at the bad food. As a result, Eaton was discharged. In 1638, the institution received the liberal bequest of about ;i^78o, and also 260 books, from the Rev. John Harvard, late of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England, who died at Charlestown in that year. The General Court, in memory of the noble benefactor, gave the college his name. The college was thus placed on a secure financial foundation, which has been strengthened and maintained by good management and the gener- osity of the alumni and other friends. Though connected with Colonial and State governments, the university has been from the first a private rather than a public institution, supported, in the main, by the fees paid by its students and the income from gifts. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 81 Harvard is not only the oldest, but one of the richest, of American colleges. She possesses property worth $12,000,000; her roll of graduates, living and dead, contains nearly 20,000 names ; and, in round numbers, her 3,000 students are taught by 300 professors and instructors. Her list of eminent sons comprises the names of John Adams, John Quincy Adams, W. E. Channing, Edward Ever- ett, W. H. Prescott, George Bancroft, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Charles Sumner, John Lothrop Motley, James Russell Lowell, E. E. Hale, and Henry D. Thoreau. In Cambridge, Harvard has the college, the graduate school, the Divinity school, the Lawrence scientific school, and the law school ; in Boston proper are the dental school, the medical school, and the school of veterinary medicine ; and in Jamaica Plain are the Bussey Institution and the Arnold Arboretum. Each of these departments is endowed with its own funds, and independent of all others, except that all are under one management. The scientific departments include the astronomical observatory, laboratories of chemistry, physics, natural history, psychology, and physiology ; museums of comparative zoology, botany, geology, mineralogy, and archaeology ; botanic gardens, and herbaria. The university museum has four acres of floor space, and the collections of the museum of compara- tive zoology alone cost $350,000. The College Yard is entered by a gateway built of granite, brick, sandstone, and iron. It was erected with funds left by Mr. Samuel Johnson of the class of 1855. On its panels are carved the shields of the State, city, and college, an emblem to the donor and the nation, and quotations from the early college history and Colonial records. The Yard contains about twenty-two acres, and nearly all the avail- able space is occupied by the buildings necessary to an institution of such magnitude. MassacJiusctts Hall is the most ancient structure about the Yard; it was built in 1820. Harva?-d Hall dates from 1766. Then, there are University Hall, Gore ^a//, containing the University Library; the Bojls/ou Chemical Laboratory , Sever Hall, Holden Chapel, Appletoii Chapel, Mathews Hall, Grays Hall, Weld Hall, etc., all in the Yard. To the northward the university has encroached on the old play- grounds. Holmes and Jarvis fields, and is rapidly spreading all over that part of Cambridge, with its vast group of halls, laboratories, museums, gymnasiums, and professional schools, its botanical gardens 83 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and observatory, forming a small city in themselves. Some of the recently erected dormitories are fine specimens of architecture, and deserve special notice. Among these are Thayer Hall, containing sixty-eight suites of rooms, built in 1870, at a cost of $115,000, by Nathaniel Thayer, of a wealthy Boston family, in memory of his father, a minister of the same name, and of his brother, John Eliot Thayer; Grays Hall, erected in 1863, commemorating the generous gifts of the well-known Gray family of Boston ; MatJiews Hall, a Gothic brick building, erected in 1870, containing sixty suites of rooms, and Hasti7igs Hall, one of the finest of the college dormitories, built in 1890, costing $243,000, the bequest of Walter Hastings. Mcuiorml Hall, architecturally the most imposing of the univer- sity buildings, was erected by the alumni, in 1870-77, as a memorial to the Harvard men who died in the Civil War. The building is of brick and sandstone, 310 feet long and 115 feet wide. The central division is the solemn Memorial Transept, lined with marble tablets, set in black walnut screens, bearing the names of the fallen heroes, and the places and times of their deaths. The transept is 1 1 5 feet long and 58 feet high to the handsome vaulted roof. Over this transept a sturdy tower rises to the height of 200 feet, and forms a conspicuous landmark. The huge Gothic dining-hall, seating 1,000 students, opens from the transept. It is 164 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 80 feet high to its timber roof, with galleries at either end, and at the west end an immense stained-glass window, with the arms of the Republic, the State, and the university. The walls are adorned with fine old portraits and busts, the works of Copley, Stuart, Trumbull, Hunt, Harding, Powers, Crawford, Story, Greenough, and other eminent artists. Directly opposite this hall, on the right of the transept, is the entrance to Sanders' Theater, a semi-circular hall, with graded seats, accommodating 1,500 persons. This is where class-day and graduation exercises are held. The story of the found- ing of Harvard College is told in the Latin inscriptions over the stage. The wall back of the stage is ornamented with the college seal, three books bearing the word " Veritas" (truth). Josiah Quincy, a statue of whom in marble, by Story, stands near the stage, was the sixteenth president of the college. He was born in Boston in 1772, of a famous family, which gave its name t-: John Quincy Adams and to the town of Quincy, and is still represented by the same old-fashioned baptis- mal name. He was for eight years in Congress, for six years mayor EDUCA TIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 83 of Boston — known as the "Great Mayor" — and for sixteen years president of Harvard, and died in 1864, at the age of 93. The statue of Jo /in Harvard, which stands on " The Delta," was designed by Daniel G. French of Concord. It was given to the univer- sity by Samuel J. Bridge. There is no likeness of John Harvard in existence; but this statue, representing a young Puritan scholar, is em- blematic of the courage and manhood of the founders of New England. Libraries. — In addition to the various society libraries, the uni- versity has twenty-nine minor libraries connected with the various departments, containing nearly 100,000 volumes, while the Univer- sity Library has over 350,000 volumes and 300,000 pamphlets. There are but two libraries in America larger than this one, the Public Library of Boston and the Congressional Library. The Fogg Museum is the University's art-museum, housed in a handsome little building opposite Memorial Hall, open to the public, and of considerable interest. The Annex is on the southeast corner of Garden and Mason streets. The main building is known as Fay House. This is the institution of the " Society for the Collegiate Instruction of Women," established in 1879 by Mr. Arthur Gilman. It has for its object the obtaining for women the best instruction given in Harvard. At the opening of the Annex there were twenty-seven women instructed by Harvard professors, forty of whom offered their services. The stu- dents come from all parts of the country ; from the Pacific coast and Sandwich Islands. They board in the various Cambridge homes, and recite at Fay House. The entrance examinations are the same as those at Harvard, and the certificates given to the graduates state that the holders have performed the work required by Harvard College for its B. A. degree. The certificates are awarded upon the recommendations of an academic board, composed almost exclusively of Harvard professors. Fay House contains recitation rooms, a reference library, and the botanical laboratory. In other buildings are laboratories of chemistry, physics, and biology. The collections of the college library and museums are open to the students, and opportunities for study in the Botanic Garden and Herbarium and the Astronomical Observatory are afforded. Departments of Harvard Outside of Cainbridg^e. The Bussey Institution is a school of agriculture, horticulture, and veterinary science. Its grounds and buildings are in the 84 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Jamaica Plain District of the city, near Forest Hills Station of the Providence division of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. They occupy a part of the noble estate bequeathed to the university by Benjamin Bussey, who also left funds in trust for the school. The Institute was opened in 1S70. The building is a tasteful structure, in the Victoria Gothic architecture, of Rox- bury pudding-stone, 112 feet long and 73 feet wide. (See Arnold Arboretum, Chapter HI.) The Harvard Dental School is located on North Grove Street, in a building formerly occupied by the Harvard Medical School. The Harvard Medical School occupies the magnificent building on the southeast corner of Boylston and Exeter streets. This school was established at Cambridge, in the old Holden Chapel, in 17S3. It was removed to Boston in 1810. The present build- ing, completed in 18S3, is of brick and red sandstone, four stories in height. The features of its broad front, which faces Boylston Street, are the three pavilions, and the sky-line of stone balus- trades, and low gables surrounding the flat roof. The interior is admirably arranged. The spacious class-rooms, lecture-rooms, and laboratories are thoroughly equipped. On the third floor is the Museum of Comparative Anatomy, founded in 1846. The original collection of this miiseum was given by Dr. John Collins Warren, professor of anatomy and surgery in the school from 1S15 to 1847. The full course at this school is four years, but on the completion of three years' study, and satisfactory examinations, the degree of Doctor of Medicine is conferred. The school numbers about 500 students, and has a corps of seventy-five professors, instructors, and assistants. The standard of the school is one of the highest in the country. The School of Veterinary Medicine is on Village and Lucas streets. Besides the school building, there is a hospital, and at the Bussey Farm there are pastures and buildings pertaining to the school. Other Institiitions. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology. — This, the leading technical school in this country, is located on Boylston Street, between Berkeley and Clarendon. It was founded in 1861, and its develop- ment has been broad and rapid. Its prominent feature is the EDUCAyi^'.VAL rNSTITmONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 85 School of Industrial Science, devoted to the teaching of science as applied to the various engineering professions — civil, mechanical, mining, electrical, chemical, and sanitary engineering — as well as to architecture, chemistry, metallurgy, physics, and geology. Courses of a less technical nattire, designed as a preparation for business callings, and in biology, preparatory to the professional study of medicine, are also given; and the Lowell School of Prac- tical Design is maintained by the corporation. The main building of the Institute of Technology, known as the Rogi'rs Btiildi7ig, is the oldest and most attractive of the buildings, and contains over fifty rooms, most of them being laboratories or lecture-rooms. This building was named in honor of Prof. William B. Rogers, the first president, and one of the founders of the school. Here are the principal offices of the school. The Walker Building, next beyond, toward Clarendon Street, erected in 1884, is devoted, mainly, to the departments of physics, chemistry, and electricity. Other buildings are the Architectui'al Building and the Engi- neeriiig Building, on Trinity Place; the VVorksJiops, on Garrison Street, with a section devoted to the Lowell School of Design, and the Gymnasium and Drill Hall on Exeter Sti^eet. The Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. — The College of Pharmacy is on the corner of St. Botolph and Garrison streets. It was instituted in 1823 and chartered in 1S52. Women are admitted to this institution on the same conditions as men. Graduates receive the degree of Ph. G. The college building was erected in 1866, and is well arranged, with large lecture halls and laboratories, cabinets of botanical and chemical drugs, and a great herbarium. The Shepard Library is a valuable collection of pharmaceutical, chemical, and botanical works, the nucleus of which was the gift of Dr. A. B. Shepard. The college is under the direction of a board of trustees, and it has ten professors and instructors. The New England Conservatory of Music, George W. Chad- wick, ]\Iusical Director, is situated on Newton Street, facing Franklin Square. It was established in 1853 by the late Dr. Eben Tourjee. The New England Conservatory provides instruction in all depart- ments of music, including pianoforte and organ tuning, in elocution jand oratory, and the modern languages. The main building, shown on preceding page, together with two adjoining estates, is used exclu- sively for the work of the Conservatory and contains, in addition to I 8 86 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. numerous recitation and organ practice rooms, two concert halls, a library, a museum of antique and historic musical instruments, also accommodations for many of the women pupils, who are provided with an inviting home with all modern conveniences. The Conserva- tory is under the control of a board of sixty trustees, has more than fifty teachers, and the number of students in daily attendance is about thirteen hundred. The Normal Art School is on the southeast corner of Exeter and Newbury streets. It is under the direction of the State Board of Education, and was established in 1S73, primarily as a training-school for teachers of industrial drawing in the public schools, but other students in special branches are admitted. In this building are class and lecture rooms for instruction in architectural and mechanical drawing and modeling in clay, in painting in oil and water-colors, and in other branches. The school is well equipped in every way. Copley Hall, a gallery for exhibitions of paintings is near by. The Perkins Institution and Massachusetts School for the Blind is on East Broadway, South Boston. It is a semi-public institution, organized, in 1S31, by the late Dr. Samuel G. Howe. Beginning with ' six blind children as the nucleus of the school. Doctor Howe continued as its director until his death, in 1877. Much of the success of the school is ascribed to his devotion to it, and his eminent fitness for the i work. He was succeeded by his son-in-law, Dr. Michael Anagnos, who was for many years his faithful co-worker, and who established the kindergarten in the West Roxbury District (corner of Perkins and Day streets). The pupils use, in reading, the system of raised letters invented by Doctor Howe. The library, containing 1 1 ,000 volumes in raised type, is the largest general library for the blind in the world. The asylum also possesses an interesting museum and a complete gym- '■ nasium. The institution is partly self-supporting, such of the jnipils as are able to pay maintaining themseh^es at a boarding-school. All the pupils are taught some useful trade or profession. Several of the \ States pay for a large number of beneficiaries. In the aiTangement of the establishment the family system is followed, and the girls i occupy dwelling-houses by themselves, the sexes being separated. 1 It is named the Perkins Institution, in honor of Col. Thomas W. ( Perkins, a Bostonian in his day distinguished for good deeds, and one of the niDst generous benefactors of the institution. [ The Protestant Episcopal Theological School in Cambridge was'i founded, in 1867, on an endowment from Benjamin T. Reed of Boston. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 87 It has eight professors and one instructor, and the number of students averages about forty. The stone buildings form a noble and harmo- nious group, including Lawrence Hall and Winthrop Hall, the dormi- tories, Reed Hall, a cloistered Gothic building, named after the founder, and which contains the library and lecture-rooms; and St. John's Memorial Chapel, built in 1869 by Robert Means Mason of Boston, as a memorial of his wife and brother, the Rev. Charles Mason, D. D. The chapel is a beautiful cruciform edifice of Roxbury granite and free-stone. Burnham Hall, behind the chapel, biiilt in 1879 by the late John A. Burnham, contains a dining-room to accom- modate over 100 students. Rev. George Zabriskie Gray, D. D., and Rev. Elisha Mulford, D. D., author of "The Nation" and " The Republic of God," were connected with this institution before their deaths. The library of Harvard University is open to mem- bers of the school. St. John's Boston Ecclesiastical Seminary occupies a beautiful estate on Lake Street, in the Brighton District. This is a Roman Catholic institution, founded in iSSo. It numbers ten professors and instructors and over 100 pupils. Wellesley College is situated in the beautiful village of Wellesley, about fifteen miles from Boston, on Lake Waban. It has the largest and handsomest building in the world devoted exclusively to the higher education of women. The grounds comprise over 300 acres and are very beautiful. Private Schools. — Besides the schools mentioned in the foregoing pages, Boston numbers about 100 private schools, which will compare favorably with those of any city in the country. About 5 ,000 pupils receive instruction in free denominational schools, which are chiefly Roman Catholic institutions. Libraries. The public and private libraries of Boston are in keeping with her other educational institutions. To her belongs the glory of possess- ing the largest public library for free circulation in the world, and this library is housed in the most magnificent public building in the (country. Her many special libraries — law, medical, scientific, mu- sical, and art — are superior to similar collections in other cities; and the library of Harvard University, which has been mentioned 88 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. elsewhere in this chapter, stands at the head of the great college libraries in the United States. The Boston Public Library, on Dartmouth and Boylston streets, facing Copley Square, was iirst opened to the public with a nucleus of less than 10,000 books. It occupied quarters on JMason Street, and in 1858, moved into a building of its own on Boylston Street, opposite the Common. In February, 1895, it was moved to the new Public Library Building — " Built by the people and dedicated to the advance- ment of learning." By successive annexations to the territory of the city, the libraries of the several cities and towns annexed have become branches of the Public Library, and are carried on as such. It has also received many bequests in money and books. The enumeration of all the books in the library on December i, 1S94, was 608,466. The librarj^ contains several special collections which add to the reputation of the institution, and make it a Mecca for scholars throughout the ccrantry. At present, these special libraries are eleven in number. The Patent Collection numbers nearly 5,000 volumes, and is open to indefinite growth. The Bowditch Mathematical Library, of nearly 6,000 volumes, is enlarged by the yearly income of a fund of $10,000. l"he Parker Library, of 14,000 volumes, was left by Theodore Parker, with the provision that they should be made as accessible as possible. The Prince Library, of about 3,000 volumes, is the most significant, if not the largest or most valuable, of all public collections of Americana in existence. The Barton Library, of nearly 14,000 volumes, contains many fine specimens of book-work and binding, as well as a remark- able Shakesperian collection. The Thayer Library, of more than 5,000 volumes, is interesting for its portraits and plates of historical and literary importance. The Franklin Library, of 500 volumes, was formed in memory of the great Bostonian, and is aided in part by the income of a gift from Dr. Samuel A. Green, who conceived the idea of making this memorial. The 600 choice volumes from the library of the late John A. Lewis are devoted to early and t-are Americana. The Ticknor Library, of 6,000 volumes, is one of the finest collections of Spanish and Portuguese literature outside of Spain. The late George Ticknor left $4,000, the income of which is devoted to keep- ing up the high reputation of this collection. The trustees have recently been notified that thej^ are to receive, in trust, the library left to the town of Quincy more than seventy years ago by John Adams, EDUCATIOATAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 89 second president of the United States. Another recent gift is that of the Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, librarian of the Public Library from 1878 to iSgo, who gives a remarkable collection of autographs and manuscripts. Close upon these last-mentioned additions, another valuable contribution to the library's treasures comes in the shape of a collection of musical works, numbering 7,000 volumes, by Mr. Allen A. Brown. Public Library Building. — The building in which this magnifi- cent library is housed is one of the few public buildings in America which may be said to be worthy of its purpose. It is deserving of note that neither individual beneficence nor State or national aid have contributed to its erection. It has been built, and it will be adorned, by the city of Boston for her citizens, who, from the Back Bay millionaire down to the humblest among them, will be entitled to enjoy its treasures of art and literature. It is not surprising, therefore, to find this Library taking the leading place on the list of the sights of Boston. In the Italian Rennaissance style of archi- tecture, it is quadi-angular in shape and surrounds a court. With its platform, it covers, exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground. Its walls are of Milford granite, which has a faint pink tinge, and the roof is of brown Spanish tiles. The chief characteristics of the building are its simplicity and the accenting of the horizontal lines of composition. The front consists of a strongly marked first story supporting an arcaded second story, which is surmounted by a massive and projecting cornice, the whole unbroken for 225 feet. The whole structure rests on a low platform, approached by wide encircling steps, which lifts the library above the level of Copley Square. Above the main entrance, and under the three central windows, are carved medallions bearing the seals of the State, the city, and the library. The three arches of the main portal admit us to a vestibule wnth Tennessee marble walls and inlaid pavement. The three great doorways open into the entrance hall. The main feature of this hall is the lofty arched ceiling of marble mosaics of white and delicate brown tesserae. The designs are of Rennaissance scrolls surrounding tablets, upon which are wrought the names of prominent Americans who have in some way been identified with Boston. The list contains Garrison, Phillips, Sumner, and Mann ; Gray, Bowditch, Agassiz, and Rumford ; Stuart, Copley, AUston, and Bulfinch ; Motley, Prescott, and Bancroft ; Story, Shaw, Webster 90 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and Choate ; Eliot and Mather, Channing and Parker ; Longfellow, Hawthorne, Peirce, Adams, Emerson, and Franklin. The floor of this hall is in white and Breccia marbles, inlaid with brass. At the foot of the stairway the design in the inlay is a laurel wreath sur- rounding the names of the benefactors of the library— Bates, Everett, Quincy, Bigelow, Vattemare, Jewett, and AVinthrop. Opposite the entrance rises a monumental staircase, the steps of Echaillon marble, and the sides of richly colored Siena marble in large sheets. At the wide landing, guarding the stairs on either side, are the couchant marble lions, by St. Gaudens. These were the gifts of the 2d and 20th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry, in memory of their comrades who fell in the Civil War. At the landing double oak doors open upon a balcony which overlooks the interior court. From the landing the staircase branches into two stately flights that end upon a columned gallery, which at either end is continued into lobbies. That on the right leads to the waiting-room; that on the left to the room for relies. The gallery also opens directly into Bates Hall, the great general reading-room, which stretches across the whole front of the building, and is lighted by its main range of windows. This noble room, 217 feet in length, 42 feet in breadth, and 50 feet to the crown of its barrel-vaulted ceiling, containing half a million books, speaks eloquently of the multitude of readers the library serves. The adjoining room is reserved for young readers. The central court is inclosed by the four wings of the building, and is entered through the Boylston Street portal. It is encircled on three sides by graceful columnar arcades of marble, above which rise walls of yellowish brick, warm and rich in tone. The calm, pure beauty of its shadowy arcades, the nobility of its solid upper walls, and its air of cloistered seclusion, make it one of the most impressive features of the building. Seats will be provided beneath its arcades and under protecting awnings, and during the warm months of the year it will be an ideal place for study. " Its projectors knew," says a recent writer, " that architectural beauty can not be completed without the help of the sister arts; that a worthy house for Boston's books could not be built unless painter and sculj^tor should give the architect their aid. But they also knew that the building's mission was to spread and encourage knowledge ; they felt that an intimate acquaintance with beauty is one of the most precious and fructifying kinds of knowledge ; and, realizing that EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 91 this, in most of its branches, can not be acquired from books, they determined to reinforce the voice of books with the voice of art . itself." Decorations. — It will be long before the work of decorating Bos- ton's library is complete ; but a great beginning has been made. There are still to come the immense sculptured groups by St. Gaudens, the bronze doors by French, the colossal stairway decorations by Puvis de Chavannes, and an ornamental fountain, not to mention the large areas of wall and ceiling ultimately to be decorated by the leading painters of America. The decorations by Puvis de Chavannes, representing the Muses ^ grcctijig the Genius of Eiilighteniiient, now occupy the panels that j encircle the wall of the grand staircase, somewhat above the level ] of the second floor, from whose gallery they are best viewed. (The picture is divided into five high arches. In the center of the lower part a panel is interrupted by the frame of a door; but the 'artist has skillfully adapted his design to these formal conditions. (His foreground consists of the turfy summit of a cliff, beyond (which the eye perceives the open sea. Interspersed here and there in the greensward are heather and oak plants, while the crest of the cliff is bordered with a transparent curtain of young trees, the light contours of which stand clearly out upon the cerulean imass of the ocean. I In the center of the composition a naked youth, representing the Genius of Enlightenment, with extended wings, rests upon clouds, his outstretched hands holding rays of light. To the right and left |the yellowish white sky, studded with opaline gleams, dominates the eep blue sea. In the distant horizon, projecting their noble forms -ipon the pale gold sky, the Nine Muses, chastely draped, rise from both sides of the grassy turf, tuning their lyres and offering palms to he Genius. Some of the Muses take their flight from the soil; others oat upon the azure with a graceful unrestraint, like divine butter- ies, their white draperies loosely adjusted. One of these Muses, at he left, is exquisite. Raising gently the long veil that covered her Sleeping head, she awakes, and mounts straight in the heavens, as ^hough impelled by an unknown force. The door-frame occupies the center of the turf, and at each side s an allegorical figure, two statues representing Contemplation and tudy, who mount guard at both sides of the door and form a natural 92 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. transition between the ideal landscape and the reality. The first figure is meditative and thoughtful ; the other fixes her regard upon a book that she holds open upon her knees. Edwin A. Abbey's frieze for the delivery-room is only half com- pleted. The subject of these pictorial presentations is " T/ic Quest of tJic Holy Grail." 1. The first represents the appearance of the Grail to the infant Galahad, who has been left, after the death of his mother, a descendant of Joseph of Arimathea, in a secluded convent to be brought up by the nuns. The holy maid, who holds the babe aloft in her arms, feels the presence of the vision, but she does not see it. The angel bearing the Grail floats upon widespread wings in celestial white. 2. The second picture shows the young Galahad, in his red robe, kneeling in the convent chapel at the close of the all-night vigil which he is required to keep before starting out on his adventures. Perceval and Bors kneel behind Galahad, fastening his sjDurs. They are dressed in chain-armor, with low-pointed helmets. 3. The third painting represents the Round Table of King Arthur. The vast circular hall, blazing with light, is filled with knights, each in his appointed seat, and all holding up the hilts of their swords, as if to swear to some great vow. The king stands, dressed in royal purple and gold, under a rich baldachin, with grotesque Celtic heads carved upon it, and pillars of mosaicked marble, like those in the churches of Salerno and Ravello. One seat alone is vacant, the chair of destiny, in which whoever sits must lose himself. An aged man enters, leading Galahad, whom he proclaims as the hero who shall achieve tlie adventures of the Holy Grail. 4. In the fourth painting we see knights, composing the host of the Grail, under the leadership of Galahad, assembled in thi' cathedral to receive the episcopal benediction before setting oui on their wanderings. 5. The fifth and last completed painting in the series repre-i sents the castle of Amfortas, the Fisher King of the legend, who; has been wounded centuries ago for his failure to keep the law of) purity, which is binding on the Guardian of the Holy Grail. 1 Under an enchantment, he and his court are sustained by ui EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 93 shadowy life, while the procession of the Grail passes nightly before their eyes. They can not be released by death until the unstained hero comes into the castle, and, by asking the meaning of the Holy Grail, breaks the spell. Galahad has arrived at the Court of the Wounded King, and is surrounded by its unearthly inhabitants. Amfortas lies in the center upon his couch, which is an ancient Celtic coffin, with a bear's skin thrown over it. His eyes are fixed on the procession of the Grail, which passes before him. Galahad stands absorbed in the wonder of the vision, but fails to ask the question by which alone the spell can be dis- solved, and the quest of the Grail be achieved. John S. Sargent's decorations will depict the '' Religions of the I World.'''' The work now finished is but a fragment in a scheme I of decoration which is to occupy all the available space in the large, ; lofty, and narrow hall, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, at the top of the building. (See Century Magazine, June, 1S96.) I The present decorations have for their theme the confusion I which fell upon the children of Israel when they turned from the I worship of Jehovah to that of the false gods of heathen nations. I The composition in the lunette represents the children of Israel \ beneath the yoke of their oppressors, into whose hands the Lord had delivered them. On the left stands the Egyptian, Pharaoh; on the right the Assyrian king, both monarchs with arms uplifted to strike with scourge and sword. The Israelites, naked in their slavery, bow in submission; their central figure lifts his arms in prayer for deliverance, and behind the yoke a multitude of sup- plicating hands are raised in imploration to the Lord, to whom his repentant people are making burnt-offering upon the altar. He has heard their prayer; flaming seraphim fly before the face of the ' Lord, and supply a superb decorative motive with the crimson of their wings, which alone symbolize their presence. His face is invisible, but His mighty arms reach down from the cloud and stay the hands of the oppressors. Behind the Assj-rian king stands a protecting genius, with the body of a man and the head of a vulture, holding in one hand a bow, and in the other two arrows. Beside this figure is the Assyrian lion, with two ravens attacking a prostrate corpse. The things symbolize the Assyrian cultus. Among the deities attending the Egyptian monarch is one ■jvith a lion's head and wings of black and gold. Prostrate victims 94 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. beneath the feet of both Assyrians and Egyptians represent the otlier nations that were oppressed by them. The Assyrian ravens are balanced on the EgyjJtian side by vultuios preying upon the dead. In the ceiling are represented the pagan deities, the strange gods whom the children of Israel went after Avhen they turned from Jehovah. Underlying all the figures that populate the ceiling is the gigantic, dark, and shadowy form of the great goddess, Neith, the mother of the universe, the goddess whose temple at Sais, in Lower Egypt, was once the center of wisdom for Greece. The feet of Neith touch the cornice on one side, her uplifted hands that of the other, and her o\-erarching figure constitutes tho firmament, whose stars are seen through the ring of the zodiac, whichforms a collar for the goddess. The third great division of the work is the frieze of the Prophets. This symbolizes the foundation of the religion of Israel upon the structure of the law. Moses is the central figure, and, in his priestly robes and symbols, is treated conventionally to typify the authority upon which the faith is based. Moses, with the tablets of the Com- mandments, is modeled in strong relief ; the other Prophets are painted on a plane surface. Ontherightof Moses stands Daniel; on the left, Joshua. The other Prophets, in their order from left to right, are Zephaniah, Joel, Obadiah, Hosea, Amos, Nahum, Ezekiel, Jeremiah, Jonah, Isaiah, Habakkuk, Micah, Haggai, Malachi, and Zachariah. Other Libraries. The Boston Athenaeum Building is on Beacon Street, between Tremont and Park streets, and is a freestone structure in the later Italian style of architecture, which was built over fifty years ago. The Athenaeum originated in a literary club, formed among a set of young men, in 1S04, called the Anthology Club, which, for awhile, edited and published a magazine called the MontJily Anthology. In 1S06 they established a reading-room, and a year later obtained an act of incorporation under the present title. For some years the club sus- tained a library, a museum of natural history, and an art gallery. But the founding of other societies devoted to these different objects, led the Athenajum to transfer to them its various collections, retain- ing only its valuable library and a few pictures, busts, and statues for decoration. Here will be found a delightful reading-room, and, while the right to use it is confined to the shareholders and their fam- ilies, great liberality is shown to scholars and strangers, who ari" EDUCATIONAL INSTITU TIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 95 always welcomed with courtesy. The library contains nearly 200,000 volumes, many valuable and rare. One of its most inter- ,esting collections is the library of George Washington, purchased in 1848. The Boston Medical Library Association occupies the house at No. 19 Boylston Place. Here are reading- rooms, a hall for the meet- ings of the leading medical societies of the city, and the library of nearly 20,000 volumes and 12,000 pamphlets. This library receives regularly over 300 periodicals. The Congregational Library to be found in the Congregational House, No. 14 Beacon Street, erected in i8g8. This is a beautiful and commodious building forming the headquarters of the Congrega- tional Church in the United States, and including the offices of various benevolent societies, of The Congregationalist, and of the American Board of Foreign Missions. The Library contains over 40,000 books besides 75,000 pamphlets, etc. The General Theological Library, No. 53 Mount Vernon Street, contains 15,000 volumes, generally of a theological or religious char- acter. There is a fine reading room in connection with it. The Library of the Massachusetts Historical Society is housed in the society's new building, erected in 1898, at the corner of Boylston Street and the Fenway. This library contains nearly 40,000 books, 100,000 pamphlets, and 750 bound volumes of manu- scripts, besides several thousand single manuscripts. Among the treasures of the library is the Dowse collection of Americana, bequeathed to the society by the late Thomas Dowse of Cambridge. Here, also, is to be found the largest collection in the country of books relating to the Civil War. Among the valuable manuscripts are the letters and jmpers of Timothy Pickering, Gen. William Heath, ithe Trumbull and Belknap papers, manuscripts i-elating to the French in Canada, and two volumes of John Winthrop's Journal. The Library of the New England Historic-Genealogical Society contains about 25,000 volumes and 70,000 pamphlets. It is located in the rooms of the society, at iS Somerset Street, just below Ashburton j Place. The library and archives of the society are freely open to the 'public, and are much utilized by persons hunting up their genealogies. j The Natural History Museum Library, in the building of the iBoston Natural History Society, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley 'contains over 20,000 volumes. 96 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The State Library of Massachusetts occupies quarters in the State House. It is composed largely of volumes of statutes of the different States, Territories, and the United States; the acts of the British Parliament, and the French Archives Parlimentaires; and it also contains valuable legal documents, law reports, works on politi- cal economy, education, and social science. The number of volumes is over 10,000. The library is open daily for the use of the Governor and other officers of the State, members of the Legislature, and the general public, under certain conditions. All persons may use it for consultation or reference. Its conduct is under the direction of a board of trustees. The Social Law Library is in the court house, on Court Square. It was incorporated in 1S14, and contains 20,000 law books. The library is open, under certain conditions, to members of the bar and other professional men. The Museiiin of Fine Arts. The Museum of Fine Arts was founded in 1S70, and was opened in the building of the Boston Athenaeum. Its substantial, but some- what gaudy, building is at the corner of St. James Avenue and Dart- mouth Street, and faces Copley Square. The first section of this biiilding was opened in 1S76, and three years later the fagade on Cop- ley Square was finished. In 1890 the building was increased to nearly double its original size, and extensive improvements made in the older parts, at a cost of over $250,000, contributed by generous citizens. The architecture is the Italian Gothic, and the material brick, with moldings, copings, and trimmings of red and buff terra- cotta, imported from England. The building forms a quadrangle surrounding an inner court, and, eventually, it will cover twice the jjresent area by successive extensions toward the south. Two large reliefs on the fagade represent two allegorical compositions: "The Genus of Art" and "Art and Industry." The main front has a pro- jecting portico in the center, with polished granite columns. The institiition has been entirely sujjported by the generosity of its friends, and by private subscriptions. The only gift it has received from the city or State is the land which it occupies. The nucleus of the collection was formerly the property of the Athenaeum, and consisted of paintings and casts, and a few gifts from citizens. When the museum was opened, the collection of casts was in- EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 97 creased by a number purchased with the proceeds of a sale of pictures, bequeathed by Charles Sumner, and by other gifts. At the _ present time the casts number nearly i ,000. The museum has grown, in about thirty years, to be one of the great museums of the world. In the department of Eastern art, I and especially Japanese art, it is very strong. In this department and in the department of prints, it has no rival in this country oixtside of New York. Six galleries are devoted to the collection of pictures in oil and water colors, containing many productions of the early American and some of the modern European schools. Four galleries and corridors are devoted to the immense collection of casts from , the antique. j Three cabinets are devoted to exhibitions of engravings. There I are galleries of textile arts, of pottery and porcelains, of bronzes, j jewelry, coins, and metal work; of wood-carvings, of ivory carv- I ings, of furniture, arms and armor, tapestries, glass, etc., and t there is a rich collection of Egyptian art. I The museum contains the school of drawing and painting, with I a faculty of seven instructors, and an extensive library of art I books. The administration is vested in a board of trustees, repre- senting Harvard University, the Boston Athenseum, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, comprising, also, ex-officio I the mayor, the superintendent of schools, a trustee of the Lowell Institute, the president of the trustees of the Public Library, and the secretary of the State Board of Education. I Recent bequests have provided a fiind of $100,000 for the pur- I chase of modern paintings. The first investments under these 1 bequests have been a portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Eugene Delacroix's " Lion Hunt." At the same time the department of ; classical antiquities secured the best collection of Greek vases ever j brought to the United States. The museum is open free to the [ public on Saturdays and Sundays; on other days a fee of 25 cents is charged. Sunday is the great day for the crowd; the poorer I people then turn out in vast numbers, and throng all the galleries ■ and cabinets. The behavior of the visitors on these occasions has never been otherwise than admirable. It would be impossible to thoroughly enjoy the collections without the two valuable historical and descriptive catalogues, which may be had at the entrance for 25 cents. VII. CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. Sunday in Boston. — The Puritan Sunday is a matter of history, which it is as hard for the present generation to understand as the religious persecution which darkens the early annals of this fair town. We may turn from the old laws, which forbade any work "except for necessity or charity," to a Sunday edition of one of the great daily newspapers, and read that one of Boston's prominent clergymen will hold a special service of morning prayer for the benefit of those persons who wish to spend the remainder of the daj^ in the enjoyment of out-door life and recre- ation. It is not that Boston has grown to be a wicked city; quite the reverse. It only proves that her intellectual and spiritual development have, like her material growth, been upon broad and humanitarian lines; and that the mental, moral, and physical needs of individuals are considered together. It is certainly more Christlike to send the weary toiler from the shop or factory for a run on the bicycle through the green fields, for a sail on the blue waters of the bay, or for a stroll with wife and children through the beautiful parks, than to confine him in the house from sundown Saturday night until Monday morning, with no change except to the hard seats of the meeting-house, and the long, doctrinal sermons of the early fathers. And so, while the day is generally observed, and the services of the many churches are well attended, healthful recreation is not only permitted, but provided, by the city govern- ment. The means and principal places of worship will be de- scribed below; in addition to them, irregular services may be found advertised in the newspapers, where, also, the hours of meeting and the subject of the next day's sermons are announced for many of the leading churches. The Museum of Fine Arts and the ^98) CHURCHES. 99 Public Library are open during the usual hours. Most, if not all, of the excursion boats which, in summer, ply between Boston and ■the seaside resorts, make their ordinary trips, and these places are more crowded upon this than upon any other day of the week. The parks offer unrivaled facilities for quiet enjoyment, and are easily reached by electric cars from different parts of the city. All places for the sale of liquor are closed by law during the twenty-four hours from midnight of Saturday to midnight of Sun- day, and business generally is suspended. Protestant Churches. Every denomination of Christians is represented in Boston. There are nearly 300 places of worship in the city, and in all of them strangers are welcome, and are cheerfully provided with seats, so long as there are any vacant. Services in the Protestant churches begin in the morning, generally at 10.30 ; and in the evening at 7.30. iThe Roman Catholic churches celebrate high mass and vespers at iabout the same hour. Nothing is implied in the order in which the jdenominations are mentioned herein, except that it seems suitable to jbegin with the oldest. ^ The Congregational Unitarian denomination has the honor of ;possessing the oldest Protestant organization in Boston. The First Church of Boston was organized by John Winthrop, Thomas Dud- ey, and other leaders of the Colonists, in Charlestown, under a great joak, in the summer of 1630. It was given the name of the " First jChurch of Christ in Boston," when they moved over to the neighbor- ing peninsula. The first meeting-house, with mud walls and thatched iroof , stood on the south side of State Street, about where Brazer'-; iBuilding now stands. The present edifice, on the corner of Berkeley ,,a.nd Marlborough streets, is the fourth building occupied by this jsociety. It is a highly ornamented stone building, with a rich and asteful interior. It seats about 1,000 persons. John Wilson was he first minister of the church, and John Cotton the second. It jecame Unitarian toward the close of the long service of Charles Dhauncy, who was minister from 1727 to 1787. Rev. William Emer- .on, father of Ralph Waldo Emerson, was minister from 1799 to i8i7» ev. Rufus Ellis was pastor from 1853 until his death, September 23, 885. The second church established in Boston is represented by the 100 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Seco7id Um'tarzan Church, in Copley Square. The society was organized in 1649, and has occupied six different meeting-houses. In the belfry of the third meeting-house hung the first bell cast in Boston, made by Paul Revere, in 1792. The first minister of the church was Rev. John Mayo. Rev. Increase Mather was the second, his service covering fifty-nine years (1664- 1723). During the greater portion of this period, Cotton Mather was his colleague (16S5-172S) ; and Samuel Mather was minister from 1732 to 1741. The first Unitarian minister was Rev. John Lathrop (1768-1816). Succeeding pastors were Revs. Henry Ware, Jr., Ralph Waldo Emerson, Chand- ler Robbins, Robert Laird Collier, and Edward A. Horton. Present pastor, Rev. Thomas Van Ness, installed in 1893. Another prominent church of this denomination is the Church of the Disciples, on Warren Avenue, which was founded by the late James Freeman Clarke, in 1841, " to embody the three principles of a free church, a social church, and a church in which the members, as well as the pastor, should take part. " Rev. Charles G. Ames is the present pastor. The present meeting-house was dedicated in 1S69. The Church of the Unity, on West Newton Street, near Tre- mont, of which the Rev. Minot J. Savage was the pastor until recently, is one of the most active churches in the city in the prose- cution of all good works. The Arlington Street Church, on the corner of Arlington and Boylston streets, is a successor of the old Federal Street Church, organized in 1724, under the Presbyterian form. It became Unitarian in 1786. The exterior of the building is plain, with a well-proportioned tower and steeple, placed in the middle of the front. The interior is modeled after the Church of S. Annunziata, at Genoa, by Giacomo Delia Porta. A fine range of Corinthian columns divides it into a nave and two aisles. In the tower is hung a chime of sixteen bells, a gift from the late Jonathan Phillips. The list of pastors of the church is short and distinguished : Belknap, John S. Popkin, Wm. EUery Channing, EzraS. Gannett(first as associate with Channing from 1824 until the latter's death), John F. W. Ware, Brooke Herford, and John Cuckson, the present pastor. Congregational Trinitarian. — This denomination .stands at the head of Protestant organizations in Boston in the number of its churches. Among its forty-two societies, that of the Old South is the most ancient. [For description of the Old South Meeting-House, see Chapter IV.] This was the third church established in Boston, and ARLINGTON STREET CHURCH - Corner Boylston and Arlington Streets. CHURCHES. 101 was "gathered" in 1669. Its present home, the New Old South Church, is the costly and imposing edifice on Boylston, corner of Dartmouth Street, and is one of the striking features of Copley Square. It is built of Roxbury and Ohio stone, in the Northern Italian Gothic style of architecture. It is cruciform, and has a great tower which rises 240 feet. From this tower an arcade, which shelters memorial tablets, extends to the south transept. Along the walls is a belt of gray sandstone, on which are carved the representations, vines, and fruit, among which animals and birds are seen. Over the center of the edifice rises a large lantern of gilded copper, with twelve windows. The interior is finished in cherry-wood and frescoed. The stained- glass window back of the pulpit represents the announcement of Christ's birth to the shepherds. The south transept window illustrates the five parables ; that in the north transept, the five miracles, and those in the nave, the prophets and apostles. Over the doorways are three panels of Venetian mosaic. The present pastor is Rev. George A. Gordon. Park Street Church, marking the corner of Tremont and Park streets, was built in 1S09. This was the first Congrega- tional Trinitarian church established after the great Unitarian movement which caused such a breaking up of lines in orthodox ranks. In the early days the singing of the Park Street choir, com- posed of fifty singers, with flute, bassoon, and violoncello accompani- ment, was an attractive feature of the Sunday service. Rev. Dr. J. L. Withrow is the pastor. Berkeley Temple, corner of Berkeley Street and Warren Avenue, is the leading institutional church of New Eng- land. The Rev. Charles A Dickinson, D. D., is pastor. Episcopalian. — The first church of this faith established in Boston was King's Chapel, and the second old Christ Church. [For history and description of these churches see Old Landmarks, Chapter IV.] Trmi'ty Church, third Protestant Episcopal church in Boston, was j founded in 1728. The present beautiful church edifice in Copley ^ Square is the third building occupied by the society. The building I is considered the masterpiece of the great architect, Richardson, and I it is open to visitors every day, except Sunday, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. I The architecture is the French Romanesque. Its shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semicircular apse added to the eastern arm and J short transepts. The massive central tower is supported by four piers, I close to the angles of the building, and stands on the square at the 'intersection of nave and transepts. The finial on the tower is 211 feet 102 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. from the ground. The stone of which the walls of the church are constructed is yellowish Dedham and Westerly granite, with freestone trimmings. The vestibules are finished in oak and ash, and the interior of the church in black walnut. The clear-story is carried by an arcade of two arches. Above the aisles a gallery is carried across the arches, which is called the " triforium " gallery, and connects the three main galleries, one across each transept, and the third across the west end of the nave. The chancel is 57 feet deep and 53 feet wide. It contains beautiful stained memorial windows, a brass lectern, and a marble font. The decorative work of the interior is by John La Farge. In the great tower are painted colossal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, Isaiah and Jeremiah, with scriptural scenes high above. In the nave is a fresco of Christ and the Samaritan woman. The building is 160 feet long and 120 feet wide at the transejDts. It rests upon 4,500 piles. The great tower weighs over 18,000,000 tons. The chapel is connected with the church by an open cloister. The cost of Trinity, land and building, was $750,000. Trinity Church has had many famous rectors, among them Revs. Samuel Parker, second Bishop of Massachusetts; John Sylvester, John Gardiner, one of the founders of the Athenaeum; J. W. Doane, afterward Bishop of New Jersey, and founder of Burlington College; John W. Hopkins, after- ward first Bishop of Vermont; Manton Eastburn, fourth Bishop of Massachusetts, and Phillips Brooks, sixth Bishop of Massachusetts. Phillips Brooks' service as rector covered a period of twenty-two years (1869-91). Present rector. Rev. E. W. Donald, installed in 1892. In the busiest part of Tremont Street, surrounded by modern busi- ness buildings, rise the gray granite Avails of St. PaiiVs Chitrch, the fourth Episcopal society of Boston. It was built in 1820, and features of the interior are the memorial tablets and the high, old- fashioned pews. The present rector of the church is Rev. John S. Lindsay. The Chu7-ch of the Advent, on the corner of Mount Vernon and Brimmer streets, is of the High Church school. The exquisite mu.sic which is rendered by the boy choir of this church is a feature of the Sunday services. The C/nirch of the Messiali, in St. Stephen Street, near Huntington Avenue, in the Back Bay, is "high church," giving the full English Cathedral Service. The rector is the Rev. John McGaw Foster. KING'S CHAPEL — Corner Tremon-t and School Streets. CHURCHES. 103 The Baptist Church in Boston goes back to the days of religious persecution, the first society of the Colony having been established in Charlestown in 1665. It was soon driven to Noddle's Island, now East Boston, which then contained but one dwelling. The first meet- ing-house was built at the North End, in Boston, on the corner of Salem and Stillman streets, in 1679. The First Baptist Church, on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Street, is the descendant of that society. The church building was designed by the late H. H. Richardson for the society of the Brattle Square Church, and it was purchased by the First Baptist Society in 1S82. The main feature of the church is the massive square tower, which is 176 feet high. On the frieze, between the belfry arches and the cornice, are colossal figures in high relief, which were carved by Italian sculptors, from designs by Bartholdi, after the stone had been put in position. The groups represent the four Christian eras. Baptism, Communion, Marriage, and Death. The statues at the corners of the tower typify the Angels of the Judgment blowing their trumpets. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, and the interior is lighted by three rose windows. The Rev. Nathan E. Wood is the pastor. The Union Temple Church, a Free Baptist church, was organized in 1839, and long established in Tremont Temple, which was burned in 1893, and has been succeeded by the new Tremont Temple. Dr. George Lorrimer, the present incumbent, has been twice pastor of the church. The Methodist Episcopal church has thirty-two organizations within the city. The Tremont Alethodist Church, on the corner of Tremont and West Concord streets, is the finest church building belonging to this denomination in the city. It is in the plain Gothic style, and is constructed of Roxbury stone. Rev. J. D. Pickles, pastor. The churches of this denomination are to be found in every part of the city, and they are in the van in all missionary and charitable work. Presbyterianism has not kept pace with other religious sects in Boston, and at present has but nine church organizations. The First Presbyterian Church, Berkeley Street, corner of Columbus Avenue; the First Reformed Presbyterian Church, on Ferdinand, corner of Isabella Street, and the Scotch Presbyterian Church, on Warrenton Street, are among the more prominent societies of the denomination in the city. 10 104 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Of Universalist churches Boston has but ten. The first church was on School Street. Its site is now occupied by the School Street Block. Their present house of worship is on Guild Row, corner of Dudley Street. The Second Universalist Church is on Columbus Avenue, corner of Clarendon Street. This has been the pulpit of the Rev. vStephen H. Roblin since 1895. His predecessor was the Rev. Dr. Alonzo A. Miner, who succeeded the Rev. E. H. Chapin. The Israelitish population of the city is centered in the old North End, and most of their synagogues, numbering thirteen, are located in that part of the town. The oldest Jewish society, that of the " Ohabei Shalom," has for its synagogue the old South Congrega- tional Church at II Union Park Street. The Temple of Adath Israel is on Columbus Avenue, corner of Northampton Street. It is a handsome Romanesque building of brick, brown stone, and terra-cotta, and contains six hundred sittings. It is the principal synagogue in Boston. Some miscellaneous churches should be mentioned. The \Wn-k- ing Union of Progressive Spiritualists occupy the " Spiritual Temple," corner of Exeter and Newbury streets. This is the first meeting-house for Spiritualists erected in the city. It was built in 1885, and its cost, $250,000, was met by Marcellus J. Ayer, a wealthy merchant. The oldest Swedenhorgiaji Church in the city is a pic- turesque Gothic house on Bowdoin Street. This society was organized in 18 18. The Salvation Army has meeting places at 7 Green Street, and 205S Washington Street. The People's Temple, corner of Colum- bus Avenue and Berkeley Street, is a free church, and the aim of its supporters is to make it attractive to all classes of people. The seat- ing capacity is from three to four thousand. This church Avas largely the conception of the Rev. J. W . Hamilton, a Methodist clergyman. The Christian Scientists occupy the First Church of Christ, on Fal- mouth Street, corner of Norway. The Latter Day Saints worship at 1821 Washington Street. The Friends' Meeting House is on Townsend, near Warren Street, Roxbury District. The Seventh Day Adv enlists are located at 26 Union Park Street. Roman Catholic Clmrclies. Roman Catholicism met with many obstacles in its efforts to gain a foothold in Boston. But, when once established, its growth was steady and rapid, and to-day it probably leads all other sects in the .r -v TRINITir CHURCH — Boylston and Clarendon Strt^ts. CHURCHES. 105 number of its communicants. It has forty-two churches, outnumber- ing, in this particular, every Protestant denomination except the _ Congregational Trinitarian. In all charitable and benevolent work, it is fully abreast of the times. Mass was first celebrated in Boston in November, 1788, in a building which stood on the present site of the School Street Building. This was the old Huguenot meeting- , house, built in 1704. Afterward it became the meeting-house of a congregation of independent worshipers, and, finally, the first Cath- olic church. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross, on the corner of Washington : and Maiden streets, is the largest and most noteworthy Catholic ; church in New England. It is constructed of the variegated Rox- 1 bury stone, and the architecture is the early English Gothic. The I massive towers will eventually be surmounted by spires, respectively j 300 and 200 feet high. The cathedral, with its chapels, covers more than an acre of ground, and it has a seating capacity of 3,500. The I interior of the church is divided by rows of bronzed pillars, which j support a high clear-story and an open timber roof. The large win- ( dows are filled with stained glass, representing various scriptural I scenes and characters. The chancel windows show the Crucifixion, 'the Nativity, and the Ascension; and those of the transept, each I covering 800 square feet, represent the " Finding of the True Cross," I and the " Exaltation of the Cross," by the Emperor Heraclius, after its recovery from the Persians. The nave is 125 feet high. Beneath lit are class-rooms, chapels, and a crypt for the burial of bishops. j The chancel contains a beautiful altar of variegated marble. The I organ, which is built around the rose window on the west side, is one I of the finest instruments in the country. It has 5,292 pipes and 100 stops. At the northeast corner of the building is the beautiful Chapel [of the Blessed Sacrament, containing the altar of the first Boston j cathedral, which stood on Franklin Street. At the southeast corner lis the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, and in this is the costly marble statue of the Virgin. In the cathedral yard is a bronze statue of Columbus, by Alois Buyens. It is a replica of the San Domingo monument. It represents the explorer in the attitude of giving thanks, the left hand raised, and the right pointing to the globe at jhisside. The figure and pedestal are twenty-five feet high. Theman- jsion-house of the archbishop and the chief offices of the denomi- ] nation are on Union Park Street, at the rear of the cathedral. \ 10 106 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Church of the Immaculate Conception is on Harrison Avenue, corner of East Concord Street. The church was begun in 1857, and completed in 1861. It is asolid structure of granite, without tower or spire. Above the entrance is a statue of the Virgin Mary, while above all stands a statue of the Saviour. The interior is very- fine. It is finished mainly in white, except at the altar end, where the ornamentation is exceedingly rich. On the keystone of the chan- cel arch is a bust representing Christ; on the opposite arch, over the choir gallery, one representing the Virgin, and on the capitals of the columns are busts of the saints of the Society of Jesus. On the panels of the rich marble altar the life of the Virgin is sculptured; and on either side of the structure are ' three Corinthian columns, with entablatures and broken arches, surmounted by statues of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin, the whole terminated by a silver cross, with an angel on each side. On the right of the broken arch is a figure of St. Ignatius, and on the opposite side one of St. Francis Xavier. The painting of the Crucifixion, behind the altar, is by Garibaldi of Rome. In the center of the elliptic dome, over the chancel, is a dove with outspread wings. The two side chapels within the chancel are dedicated to St. Joseph and St. Aloysius. Otlier Religious Organizations. There are a great number of missionary and religious societies, both imsectarian and denominational, which do a beneficent work in the city. Some of these are national in character; others purely local. Among these may be mentioned the Bostcni Deaf JSIutc Soci'i'ty, at 458 Boylston Street, which provides a meeting-place and preaAing in sign language, free to all deaf mv:tes ; the Clark Street Mission, which aids and protects discharged prisoners ; the City Missionary Society — Congregational House — No. 14 Beacon Street, which provides moral and religious instruction for the poor; the Episcopal City Mission of Bosto?i, No. i Joy Street, which does missionary work in the hospitals and prisons, and among the sailors, meets the steamers bringing steerage passengers, and sends visitors into the densely populated portions of the city to labor for the spir- itual welfare of the poor; the St. Vincent de Paul Society, 36 Charity lUiilding, which is active in a variety of religious and charitable work; the North End Union, 20 Parmenter Street, a society for the elevation of the poor at the North End; the Union Rescue Mission, 34 RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 107 Kneeland Street, engaged in aiding and lifting up poor, fallen humanity ; the United Society of Christian Endeai'or, 646 Washing- . ton Street, a religious society, composed of members of evangelical churches, for the training and guiding of young Christians ; the Order of the King's Daughters, 7 Temple Place, organized to do "anything that helps another human being to be better and happier, and to develop spiritual life and stimulate Christian activity;" and the Massachusetts Bible Society, 12 Bosworth Street, sells or distributes, gratuitously, Bibles and Testaments. Societies for Social Iinprovenieut. The Boston Young Men's Christian Association occupies a I handsome building on the corner of Boylston and Berkeley Streets. I The object of this society is to provide a homelike resort, with good I influences, for young men. The building contains attractive parlors, reception-rooms, reading, game, and class rooms, halls for lectures, I and a thoroughly equipped gymnasium. Membership in this associ- j- ation is open to men over fifteen of any religious belief. \ The Boston Young Men's Christian Union, 4S Boylston Street, is open to young men, over sixteen, of any color or sect. It incites its I members to religious and mental culture, and to practical philan- j thropy. The building has reception-rooms, parlors, a study, librar}-, I class and reading rooms, a fine gymnasium, and three public halls. In the largest of these halls — the Union — there are 500 seats, and it I has a stage and appliances suitable for amateur dramatic perform- ances. The Boston Young Men's Hebrew Association, 68 vSpringfield Street, is open evenings. It is devoted to the social and moral ad- vancement of young men. The Young Woman's Christian Association, No. 40 Berkeley Street, was established in 1S66. Its object is "to care for the tem- poral, moral, and religious welfare of young women who are depend- ent upon their own exertion for support, and to help them in such a way that their self-respect shall not be hurt." It maintains a lodging, house, restaurant, a training-school for domestics, a school of domes- jtic science, evening classes for working girls in dress-cutting, dress- making, millinery, cooking, typewriting, stenography, and a normal school of physical education, an employment bureau, and a business agency for the various employments open to women. 108 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Women's Educational and Industrial Union, 264 Boylston Street, was established in 1880, and has for its object "to increase fellowship among women, and promote practical methods for their educational, industrial, and social advancement." It maintains a reading-room free to all women of any race or creed; library, classes in bookkeeping, gymnastics, embroidery, millinery, drawing, music, language, etc.; lectures and entertainments on Wednesday evenings in winter, free to men and women; religious meetings on Sunday, for women only, and health talks, by women physicians, twice a week. An agency of direction gives information as to boarding- houses, summer resorts, schools, etc. A befriending committee visits the sick. In the lunch-room a simple bill of fare, at moderate prices, is presented, and women can bring their own lunch to eat here without purchasing. Charities and Hospitals. Hospitals. — Boston is one of the foremost cities in the country in the number and equipment of her hospitals. A stranger suffering from illness or accident ought to feel no hesitation in availing him- self of the comfort and care provided by these institutions. The Massachusetts General Hospital, on Blossom Street, had its origin in a bequest of $5,000, made in 1799; but it was not incorpo- rated until 181 1. It is the most complete and perfectly organized in- stitution of its kind in the country, and the oldest, save one — the Pennsylvania Hospital. The stately main building, of Chelmsford granite, was designed by Bulfinch. It stands in pleasant shaded ground. It admits, tinder light conditions, patients suffering from diseases or injuries, from any part of the United States or British Provinces; and provision is made for free treatment, or treatment at the cost to the patient of the expense involved. No infectious dis- eases are admitted, and chronic or incurable cases are generally refused. On proper call the hospital ambulance, with medical officer, is dispatched, at any hour, to points within the city proper, north of Dover and Berkeley streets. Every arrangement is made, in the hospital, for the treatment, comfort, and happiness of the patient. In connection with this hospital is the Convalescent Home, at Wa- verly, and the McLean Asylum for the Insane, also established in Waverly. The hospital maintains a training school for nurses, and a dispensary which gives treatment only. RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 109 The names of many men eminent in the medical profession have, at all times, been on the list of its visiting physicians and surgeons. In one of the operating-rooms of this hospital a capital operation was first performed under the influence of ether. (vSee The Ether Muniment, in Chapter III.) The Boston City Hospital occupies the entire square between Harrison Avenue, East Concord, Albany, and East Springfield streets, and a part of the adjacent square to Massachusetts Avenue. It is maintained by annual appropriations from the municipal government, and it is governed by a board of trustees rej^resenting the government. The hospital staff, consisting of visiting, out-patient, house, departments, and medical and sur- gical assistants, numbers about seventy. The hospital is chiefly intended for free patients, but there are accommodations for a number of pay-patients, at prices varying from $10 to $30 per week. The hospital proper consists of the central administration building, and eighteen other buildings for patients, forming an effective architectural group. The hospital for contagious diseases, completed 1894, is known as the Chester Park Hospital, and has accommodations for 260 patients. It is intended for such infec- tious diseases as diphtheria, scarlet fever, measles, etc. This group of buildings has cost about $350,000, and is the best of any hospital in existence devoted to this special purpose. No American city, save Boston, is jDrovided with a place like this, where gently- nurtured people may have all the comforts and attentions to Avhich they are accustomed. The Convalescent Home, connected with the City Hospital, is at Milton Lower Mills, about four miles from the hospital. It is a fine old family mansion, which has been extended and enlarged, and accommodates thirty-six patients. It is in a beautiful park of fifteen acres. The Massachusetts Homoeopathic Hospital, on East Concord Street, was incorporated in 1855, but was not established and ready for patients until 1S71. For five years it occupied a house at 14 Burroughs Place. The present beautiful building was opened for patients in May, 1876. The funds for its erection were » raised by a grand fair, which was held by its friends, and netted nearly .$80,000. The hospital has recently been enlarged at a cost of $100,000, and is pronounced, by competent judges, one of the most successful and satisfactory hospitals in the State. 110 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Carney Hospital, on Old Harbor Street, South Boston, was incorporated in 1865. The location is, in every respect, desirable. It stands on Dorchester Heights, and commands an extensive view of Massachusetts Bay, and also of the city. The land on which the hospital stands, and a fund of $53,000, were a gift from the late Andrew Carney. It is in charge of the Sisters of Charity, and is a Catholic institution, but patients of all classes are admitted, no distinction being made on account of creed, color, or race. It is a hospital of the first class, with well-equipped operating-rooms, etherizing-rooms, and other departments. Other Hospitals. — Adavis Nervine Asylum^ for persons of both sexes affected with nervous diseases. West Roxbury District, Center Street. Boston Lying- In //ir'.?/^//;^?/. No. 24 McLean Street. CJian- ning Home, for women and children, chiefly incurables. No. 30 McLean Street. Children's Hospital for medical and surgical treat- ment of children, Huntington Avenue, Back Bay District. Consnnip- ti7'es' Home, for both sexes. Homoeopathic treatment, Roxbury District, corner of Warren Street and Blue Hill Avenue. J^ree Hospi- tal/or Women, for treatment of diseases of women, 817 Harrison Avenue and Brookline Street. Honse of t/ie Good Samaritan, for the treatment of women and children, especially incurables, No. 6 McLean Street. New England Hospital/or Women and Children, under the charge of women. It offers young women studying medi- cine opportunities for clinical study which other hospitals afford to young men; Dimock Street; dispensary, 29 Fayette Street. Smallpo.x Hospital , near rear entrance of Forest Hills Cemetery, Canterbury Street. Special Home, for both sexes afflicted with spinal diseases, homoeopathic treatment, Roxbury District, corner Warren Street and Blue Hill Avenue. St. Elizabeth's Hospital, for women. No. 61 West Brookline Street. St. Joseph's Home for Siek and Destitute Servant Girls, for incurables especially, Nos. 41 to 45 East Brookline Street. St. Mary's Lying-in Hospital (and Infant Asylum), Dorchester District, Bowdoin Street. United States Naval Hospital, connected with the Charlestown Navy Yard, Chelsea. Other Public Institutions which come under the jurisdiction of the city government, are the Houses of Industry and Reformation, and the Truant School at Deer Island; the House of Correction and Lunatic Hospital a-t South Boston, the Almshouses at Rainsfordand RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. HI Long Islands, and Charlestown; the Marcel la Slrect Home for neglected boys and girls, and the Parental School, at West Roxbury. The Associated Charities of Boston. — The objects of this society are to secure the concurrent and harmonious action of the different charities in Boston, in order to raise the needy above the need of relief, prevent begging and imposition, and diminish pauperism ; to encourage thrift, self-dependence, and industry through friendly intercourse, advice, and sympathy, and to aid the poor to help them- selves ; to prevent children from growing up as paupers, and to aid in the diffusion of knowledge on subjects connected with the relief of the poor. To accomplish these objects, it provides for the thorough investigation of the case of every applicant for relief, and places the result of such investigation at the disposal of the Overseers of the Poor, of charitable societies and agencies, and of private persons of benevolence. It makes all relief conditional upon good conduct, and sends friendly visitors into the families of the poor. Their offices are in the Charity Building, on Chardon Street. The Private Charities of Boston are numerous and efficient. They meet almost every want to which suffering humanity is subject, and they are conducted with rare intelligence and devotion. It would be impossible, in a work of this character, to mention even the more prominent private philanthropies. Information concerning them may be obtained at the Charity Building, on Chardon Street. VIII. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, AND MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS. The social clubs of the city are not of special interest to strangers, since, without an invitation from a member, no one is admitted to their privileges. Boston has manyclubs, social, literary, professional, business, and commercial. Some of these clubs have palatial houses, wherein every appliance of comfort and luxury is to be found, but many of them are confined to rooms in some convenient locality. The following is an alphabetical list of the leading clubs and societies in Boston, with brief remarks: Algonquin, 217 Commonwealth Avenue. This is one of the lead- ing social clubs. Its membership includes bankers, brokers, mer- chants, lawyers, etc. It was organized in 1885, and occupies one of the finest and most perfectly appointed club-houses in the city. The exterior, in Italian Renaissance architecture, is of Indiana limestone. The reading-room, library, and billiard-hall are each over eighty feet long, and the dining-rooms and other apartments are convenient and attractive. Apollo Club, 153 Tremont Street. [See Chapter V.] Appalachian Mountain, Tremont Building. The objects of this association are to explore the mountains of New England and the adjacent regions, both for scientific and artistic purposes, and, in general, to cultivate an interest in geographical studies. Its mem- bers make frequent expeditions to these mountains, strike out new paths, establish camps, con.struct and publish accurate maps, and collect all available information concerning the mountain regions. The Atlantic Yacht, Commercial wharf. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 113 Boston Architectural, 5 Tremont Place, composed of architects and draughtsmen, and non-professionals interested in the aims of the society. Boston Athletic Association, Exeter, corner of Blagden Street. [See Chapter V.] Boston .Camera Club, 50 Bromfield Street, composed of amateur photograj^hers.and devoted to the advancement, among its members, of a knowledge of photography in all its branches. The Boston Art Club's handsome home is at the corner of Dart- mouth and Newbury streets. The ck:b entrance is on the Newbury Street side, while the public entrance to the art gallery is on the Dartmouth Street front. The building is in the Romanesque style of architecture, with hexagonal corner tower with a massive project- ing balcony. This club was organized in 1857, with a membership of twenty persons, nearly all of whom were professional artists. In 1874 t^^^ club was reorganized and now numbers 137 professional and 650 non- professional members. The objects of the club, as stated in its con- stitution , are ' ' to advance the knowledge and love of art through the exhibition of its works of art, the acquisition of books and papers for the purpose of forming an art library, lectures upon subjects per- taining to art, and by other kindred means ; and to promote social intercourse among its members." The interior of the house is convenient, sumjjtuous, and inviting. The exhibition gallery, on the second floor, is 47 by 47 feet, and iS feet high, and, by the arrangement of the interior of the house, the gallery can be thrown open for public exhibitions without encroaching upon the rooms devoted exclusively to club pvtrposes. The club has a val- uable library of works on art and books of reference. Its regular spring, summer, and winter exhibitions are important features of the art season in Boston. The Boston Society of Decorative Art is located at 222 Boylston Street. The purpose of this society is "to raise the standard of design in hand-wrought work and in manufacture, and to guide all those who use the needle, the brush, or the modeling- tool for deco- rative ends, to an appreciation of pure form and noble design, so that the objects produced or decorated by these agencies might be beauti- ful to the eye and satisfactory to the cultivaied taste." The rooms of the society are open from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. on week-days, and many 114 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. beautiful specimens of decorative work are on exhibition. Admission free. The Boston Turn Verein, 29 Middlesex Street, was organized in 1849, and it is the leading German society in the city. The club- house contains a thoroughly equipped gymnasium, billiard-rooms, bowling alleys, a hall having a seating capacity of 500, and a stage for private theatricals, concerts, and other entertainments; a reading- room and library, and restaurant,. parlors, and reception-rooms. The Bostonian Society, Old State House, is an organization to " promote the study of the history of Boston, and the preservation of its antiquities." It has charge of the upper stories of the Old State House, and maintains the rooms on the second floor, with the collec- tion of antiquities there, for public exhibition. The Boston Merchants' Association, 56 Bedford Street, was incorporated in 1880. Its membership represents various branches of business. It has regular standing committees on transportation, arbitration, debts and debtors, and postal facilities, telegrajihy, etc. Its annual banquets are features in the mercantile life of Boston. Boston Chess Club, 18 Boylston Place. Boston Fencing Club, 20 Beacon Street. Boston Press Club, i-i.Bosworth Street, composed of newspaper proprietors, publishers, editors, reporters, and managers, and persons regularly engaged in literary pursuits. Boston Yacht Club, 817 East Sixth Street. It is the senior yacht club of Boston, and dates from 1866. Its club-house is at City Point. Caledonia Club, 694 Washington Street, composed largely of leading Scotch citizens. Catholic Union, 1682 Washington Street, composed of leading Catholics. Cecilia, 153 Tremont Street. Commercial Travelers', 694 Washington Street. Elysium Club, 21 S Huntington Avenue. This is composed of the leading Hebrew residents of the city. The club-house was erected in 1891, and it is, in every way, convenient and attractive. Mayflower Club, 7 A Park Street, a social club of women, organized, in 1893, to provide comfortable rooms down town, "fur- nished with periodicals and conveniences for writing, and where a simple lunch may be obtained." The club-rooms are pleasant and comfortably furnished, and the restaurant is especially inviting. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 115 Massachusetts Yacht Club, Rowe's Wharf. New England Woman's Club, No. 3 Park Street. This is one of » the most prominent clubs of Boston. Its 01-ganization, in 1868, was closely followed by that of " Sorosis " of New York, but the latter club does not resemble its predecessor in its aims. Sorosis is purely a social club, while the New England Woman's Club is not only i social, but has a wide-reaching work in many directions. The Woman's Club was intended as a center of rest and social convenience for women already active in various philanthropic ways to the extent of their ability, with the hope and belief that the time thus econo- mized from fruitless search of each other, or spent socially in a less ' satisfactory manner, given to this sympathetic intercourse, might I turn to. still more fruitful use from the reaction upon each other of I minds so well trained in varied service, when brought to bear upon I the special needs of women. Paint and Clay Club, 419 Washington Street. This club was I founded in iSSo. Its constitution requires that members shall be I connected with art, literature, or music. It gives occasional recep- tions and art exhibitions. I The Puritan Club, 50 Beacon Street, composed of young men I of social standing and wealth. It has excellent table d'hote din- ners for members, and pleasant dining-rooms for private parties. j Republican Club, 19 Milk Street. St. Botolph Club, 2 Newbury Street, largely composed of I professional men. It was organized in 18S0, and the purpose of j its projectors was to establish a club similar to that of the I Century in New York. Among its members are several of the imost distinguished of the liberal clergymen of the city, representa- tive literary men, physicians, journalists, artists, and members of J the bar. A feature of the club-house is its large art gallery. j The Somerset Club, 42 Beacon Street. This is the most I fashionable and exclusive of Boston's clubs. It has occupied its i present quarters since 1S72. The house, which was formerly the mansion of the late David Sears, stands on the site of the home of Copley, the famous painter. It is an imposing granite front, ( "double-swell" house, with convenient and elegant interior. A I notable feature is a ladies' dining-room for guests of the mem- bers, Avhich is also open to non-members accompanying ladies on I club orders. 116 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Suffolk Club, whose house, at 4^ Beacon Street, is a modest, comfortable, and homelike structure, is a purely social club. Politics do not enter into its plans, but it haj^pens that many prominent Democrats are among its members. Union Club, S Park Street. This club was established during the Civil War, primarily as a political club in support of the Union cause. The house was formerly the home of Abbot Lawrence. It is spacious, well aiTanged, and furnished, adorned with paintings and other works of art, and provided with a fine library. It has, for many years now, been a purely social club, having abandoned its political features. The Tavern Club occupies very pleasant quarters at No. 4 Boj-lston Place, in an old-time mansion, which is adorned with Avorks of art and curiosities, given by members. It is a lunch and dining club of gentlemen who are interested in literature, art, music, etc. The Temple Club, located at 35 West Street, is the oldest club in the city, having been established in 1S29. It is a purely social club, and the membership is small. The club-house jjresents a plain exterior, bi:t its interior is admirably arranged and equipped for club purposes. The University Club, 270 Beacon Street, was organized in 18S1, and its membership is composed entirely of college-bred men, and includes representatives of all the leading colleges in the country. It occupies one of the most sumptuously appointed club-houses in the city. The Unity Art Club, 724 Washington Street. Union Boat Club, foot of Chestnut Street, on the Charles River. This is, with one exception, the oldest boat club in the United States, having been organized in 1S51. It is an exclusively amatevir associa- tion, no member being allowed to enter into negotiations to row a race for a stated sum of money, nor can the funds of the club be appropriated for prizes. There are several Literary Clubs in Boston which, having no club-houses, meet at some leading hotel. The Scrfi/rday Club dines vjuce a month, at Parker's. Many celebrated writers have belonged to this club. The Wednesday Evening Centiery Club and the Thurs- day Club are associations in which the professional element is dom- inant. They meet at the houses of members. Among the Professional Societies may be mentioned the Boston CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 117 Medical Association, which holds its meetings at 19 Boylston Place; the Boylston Medical Society of Harvard University, the Boston ■ Society for Medical Improvement, the Boston Society for Medical Observation, the Boston Homoeopathic Society, the Boston Drug- gists' Association, and the Bar Association of the City of Boston. Scieutific and Learned Societies. Boston has many societies devoted to scientific and learned inves- tigations. The American Academy of Arts and Sciences has rooms in the Historical Society's building, and is, with one exception, the oldest scientific society in the country. The object of its founders was ' ' the promotion and encouragement of a knowledge of the antiquities and the natural history of America; the encouragement of medical studies, mathematical disquisitions, philosophical inquiries and discoveries, astronomical, meteorological, and geographical observations, and improvements in agriculture, the arts, manufac- tures, and commerce." Volumes of its "Memoirs" and "Proceed- ings" are from time to time published. Its library contains 22,000 volumes. (See Libraries.) The Massachusetts Historical Society, which in 1899 moved into a new building at Boylston Street and the Fenway, was founded, in 1 791, by Rev. Jeremy Belknap and seven associates. Its object is to investigate matters of history, and preserve records and relics illustrating it, especially locally. It publishes extensively. The New England Historic Genealogical Society, at 18 Somerset Street, was founded in 1S44, and has for its object the study and pub- lication of historical and genealogical facts about New England and her people. The library embraces the largest collection in the country of genealogies of New England families. The Boston Society of Natural History meets in its Museum building (see p. 69), at the corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets. The Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, Hunt- ington Avenue, corner of West Newton Street, was instituted, in 1795, at the " Green Dragon Tavern." Its primary objects Avere to relieve the families of unfortunate mechanics, and to assist j^-oung mechanics with loans of money, and to promote inventions and im- provements in the mechanic arts. It has, for a long period now, held " Triennial Festivals," or public exhibitions. The present exhibition building is one of the largest in the country. Of its three halls* 118 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Mechanics' Hall, seating about 6,000, is the largest. Paul Revere was the first president of this association. Secret Orders. All, probably, of the secret orders and societies in the United States are represented in Boston. The following are notable : Free Masonry, — The first Masonic lodge in the country was organized in Boston, in July, 1733. The headquarters of the Masonic societies of the city are in Masonic Tejiiple, on the corner of Tremont and Boylston streets, a magnificent granite building, finished in iSgg. The sub-basement includes a large banqueting-hall. The upper part of the Temple is divided into many halls, lodgerooms, and general offices of the order. The new Corinthian Hall, on the third floor, will seat 255 persons, and is a refined copy of the old hall; it contains an organ operated by electric power. The rooms of the Grand Master and the library (for about 50,000 volumes) are also on this floor. In the old temple one of the features was the Egyptian Hall. This is replaced by Ionic Hall, which occupies a part of the fifth floor, will be used by the chapters and the commanderies, and will have one of the three organs. A gallery reached from the tyler's station, with platforms and galleries, having a seat'ng capacity of about 375, is a feature of this apartment. The Prelates rooms are also on this floor. Gothic Hall (650 seats and a stage) and other rooms especially adapted for the Scottish Rite bodies occupy a part of the seventh floor. In the sixth, eighth, and ninth stories are armories, lodgerooms and parlors. Odd Fellows.— The first lodge of Odd Fellows in Boston was organized March 26, 1S20— the second in the country. The head- quarters of the several organizations in the city are in Odd Fellows' Building, No. 515 Tremont Street, corner of Berkeley. The Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, Xo. 24 Hayward Place, is a secret benevolent organization, incorporated in 1S79. Its membership, at first composed chiefly of actors, now includes persons from all professions. It gives assistance to members who are ill or out of employment, according to the discretion of a relief committee. Military OrganizatioiKS. State Militia. — The headquarters of the First Brigade arc at No. 19 Milk Street, and of the Second Brigade at No. 37 Tremont Street. The First Corps of Cadets, M. V. M., quite an aristocratic four- company battalion of young men, organized in 1741, and once com- CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 119 manded by John Hancock, are quartered in the castellated granite armory on Columbus Avenue, southeast corner of Ferdinand Street. The First Regiment of Infantry, the Fifth Regiment of Infantry, and the First Battalion of Cavalry, make their head- quarters in the Irvington Street Armory. The Sixth Regiment of Infantry's Armovj i?, on Green Street, corner of Chardon; and the Ninth Regime7it of Infarttry is on East Newton. The Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company is the oldest mili- tary organization in the country. It was chartered in March, 163S, as " The Military Company of Boston," and Robert Keayne, one of the chief promoters of the new organization, was its first captain. It was not until 1657 that it became an artillery company, when it was recognized as such by the general court. The title "Ancient and Honorable" was assumed in 1700, first appearing in its records in September of that year. It was styled ' ' ancient " because of its great age, and " honorable " from the fact that some of its earlier members had belonged to the Honorable Artillery Company of Lon- don. The company was dispersed by the Revolution, and revived in 1789, when its name and privileges were confirmed by the Legisla- ture. The anniversary of its organization, the first Monday in June, is still celebrated by an annual parade. A sermon is preached to the company, a good dinner is served in Faneuil Hall, and speeches listened to; and thereafter all march to the Common, where the Gov- ernor of the Commonwealth delivers to the newly-elected officers their commissions and the insignia of their offices. The company I has its headquarters in Faneuil Hall, and frequently makes extensive j visiting journeys, of which the most notorious of late was its visit i.it England in 1895, and its expedition to Baltimore in 1806. IX. A TOUR OF THE CITY. In the following pages is presented a single day's itinerary, covering the more important points of attraction in the city proper, and some of those which, from historical or other associ- ations, are ahvaj-s considered in connection with Boston. Of course, it would not be possible, within such limits of time, to linger long at any one point, and many places which would prove interesting must be omitted from such a tour; but if one has but a short time in which to compass the sights and beauties of this historic town, it is believed that a strict adherence to the route here proposed will enable him to cover more ground, and to see more intelligently the places visited. Washington Street. Washington Street, starting at Haymarket Square, and trav- ersing the city longitudinally from the old "North End," through Roxbury to Dedham, is the principal business thoroughfare. The corner of Washington and Bedford streets is about in the center of the hotel and theater district, and will be a good point from which to start on our pilgrimage. Here, on the southeast corner, -.s the great dry goods establishment of R. H. White & Co., occupying a stone structure, and reaching through to Harrison Avenue, in the rear. Keeping on the right side of Washington Street and walking to the north, we pass some of the largest and (inest retail stores in the city. The block, from Avon to Summer Street, with the exception of Shuman's corner, is occupied by the handsome freestone store of Jordan, Marsh & Co. On the opposite side of Washington Street, between Temple Place and Winter Street, is the great music publishing house of Oliver Ditson & Co- A TOUR OF THE CITY. 121 Here, on the southeast corner of Milk and Washington streets, is the building of the Bostoji Tratiscript, the oldest evening news- » paper in Boston. On the opposite corner of Milk Street is the Old South Mceting-Hoiise, which is described in the chapter entitled " Old Landmarks." Here we must pause to enjoy the quaint old sanctuary, and spend a few minutes in viewing the col- lection of antiquities which are exhibited in the church. The entrance fee is 25 cents, and goes toward the maintenance of the building. On the opposite side of Washington Street is the build- ing of the Boston Traveller, the first 2-cent evening newspaper in Boston, and the first to display news bulletins. Milk Street. I Let us now turn down Milk Street, noting the building on the I opposite side. No. 17, which bears a tablet announcing that it marks the site of Benjamin Franklin's birthplace. Among the '; buildings, many of which are occupied by banks, railroad, and ! other corporations, the most notable are those of the International Trust Company, its light stone fagade ornamented with carving and sculpture, and then the great insurance buildings. At the I corner of Devonshire and Milk is the massive granite [ building of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, full of banks and offices, with the Security Safe Deposit vaults in the basement. Elevators run to the roof, whence there is a magnificent view of the city and harbor. Next our attention is claimed by the white granite building, in the Renaissance style, of the New England Mutual Life Insurance, at the corner of Milk and Congress streets. This building is crowned by colossal statues. Adjoining this the white marble building, with a stone clock-tower, rising 130 feet, and terminating in a graceful spire, is that of the Mutual Life Insurance Companj^ of New York. Crossing Post Office Square, we must stop long enough to view the ponderous Cover time tit Bitildmg, which faces the square, and fills the space bounded by Milk, Devonshire, and Water streets. The Post Office Department occupies the basement, the ground floor, and part of the second story of the building. In the second story are also the offices of the Pension Agent, the Naval Pay and Internal Revenue Departments, and the Sub-Treasury. The latter is a fine hall, 50 feet high, adorned with rich marbles and costly trimmings. 11 132 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The United States Courts, the Lighthouse Board, Lighthouse In- spectors, and the Signal Service Department are all housed in this building. The exterior walls of the building are of Cape Ann granite. The fagades rise more than loo feet above the side- walks, and the whole is a composition of pilasters, columns, and round-arched windows, proportioned to set off the massive structure. On the Post Office Square front are the heroic, sculptured groups, in Vermont marble, by Daniel C. French of Concord. Facing the building, the left-hand group represents "Labor Protecting the Family and the Arts " ; Labor, a stalwart figure, with his right arm supported by the horn of the anvil against which he is leaning. Under his right arm are the mother and child; at his left is a graceful woman supporting a vase, while at her feet lie sculptured masks and capi- tals. The group at the right represents ' ' Science Controlling the Forces of Steam and Electricity." The central figure. Science, rests her foot on a closed volume — her undiscovered secrets — and sup- ports on her left arm a horeshoe magnet, with a thunderbolt as an armature. At her feet crouches a slave, with hands chained to a loco- motive wheel; about him clouds of steam and fragments of ma- chinery. At her right is disclosed the Spirit of Electricity, from whom she throws back her drapery, which has veiled the figure, and he stands ready to dart forth to "put a girdle round the earth," which lies at his feet. These groups are among the best examples of symbolic sculpture in the country. Custom House and Vicinity. After leaving the Post Office, let us turn east on Water and pass through Liberty Square, with the Mason Building in the middle of the square, to Broad Street. Turning to the left, and then at Central Street to the right, we come to the Custom House, a solid, dignified building, in the form of a Greek cross, and the exterior in pure Doric style. It was begun in 1835, and was twelve years in building. The walls, columns, and even the entire roof, are of granite, and it rests upon 3,000 piles. Each of the massive, fluted columns is 5 feet 2 inches in diameter, 32 feet high, and weighs over 40 tons. There are thirty-two of these columns. The porticoes have each six columns. The granite dome, at the intersection of the cross, terminates in a sky- light, which is 25 feet in diameter. The cross-shaped rotunda, finished in the Grecian-Corinthian style, is the main feature of the interior. A '^("t%^ B"^9 ^^ l^eT^^ r KraJS BOSTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE — India Street, near Atlantic A. A TOUR CF THE CITY. 123 Just beyond the Custom House, on India Street, is the Chambei- of Comi/icrce Biu'ld/nt^, with cii-cular front and lofty, conical roof pierced by high dormer windows. It is Romanesque and irregular in plan, conforming to the shape of the lot. The chamber occupies the entire third floor. The board-room, or exchange, is circular in form, with high domed ceiling — the apex 38 feet above the floor — and has a floor space of 4,300 square feet. The visitors' gallery is over the entrance. Leaving the Chamber of Commerce and retracing our steps for a short distance, pass to the rear of the Custom House and along Commercial Street to the (2i/iiicy Market, a long, low, granite building, with porticoes of massive granite columns, and at either end a well-proportioned dome. This market-house (offi- cially called " Faneuil Hall Market") is a monument of the first Mayor Quincy's administration, which covered six terms, i823-'2g. It was built in 1825-6, and cost, exclusive of the land, only $150,000. The building is 534 feet long, extending from Commercial Street to Faneuil Hall Square. A walk through the market, from the east to the west portal, will be found instructive and interesting; while outside, on both the north and south sides of the building, the countless vegetable and market wagons make an animated scene. Leaving the market by the west portal, you are directly oppo- site old Faneuil Hall, in which every patriotic American feels an interest. [For history and description of Faneuil Hall, see chapter entitled Old Landmarks.] After visiting the " Cradle of Liberty," and viewing the collection of portraits and relics of Colonial and Provincial times, let us pass through Dock Square to Adams Square, where Miss Anne Whitney's St at tie of Samuel Adams calmly surveys the hurry, and bustle, and crowd of Washington Street. This statue, which is a counterpart of that by the same artist in the Capitol at Washington, was set up in 1880, the 250th anniversary of the settlement of the town. The patriot leader is represented as he is supposed to have looked when he was await- ing Governor Hutchinson's reply to his demand for the instant removal of the British troops from the town, the day after the " Massacre of 1770." Let us now turn up Washington Street, and, keeping on the left side of the street, we must take time to admire the lofty Ames Building, on the northwest corner of 124 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Court and Washington streets. This is a very tall building indeed, as, although covering a very small area, its granite walls rise to a height of T90 feet. This finely designed structure cost about $700,000. It was completed in 1890, and its tenants are chiefly banking institutions and lawyers. On the opposite corner of Court and Washington streets is another handsome business block, the Sears Building. This is in the Italian Gothic style of architecture, its exterior walls of gray and white marble. Here several great Western railroads and New England manufacturing com^sanies have their offices. Just in the rear of this building, on Court Street, is Young's Hotel; and here, on our left, standing at the head of State Street (in ante-Revolutionary days King Street), is the Old State House. [For history and de- scription of the Old State House, see chapter entitled " Old Land- marks."] After completing our inspection of this most interesting relic, let us walk a short distance down State Street, the financial center of the town. State Street. Emerging from the Old State House, by the eastern portal, we are confronted on either hand by massive modern buildings. On the north side, at No. 28, is the building of the Merchants' National Bank, the largest banking institution in New England. Just beyond this is the Massachusetts Hospital Insurance Build- ing, On the south side of State Street is the old-fashioned Brazer's Building, which will, doubtless, soon give way to a much larger structure. The ten-story building of light brick, occupying the little block formed by Congress Square and Congress Street, is the Worthington Building, built by Roland Worthington, the former owner of the Boston TraveUo-. The most notable of the modern buildings of State Street is the mammoth twelve-story granite Stock Exchange, one of the largest office buildings in the country. It has a frontage of 170 feet on State Street and 160 feet on Kilby Street. The cost of this great structure was $4,000,000. In this building are the quarters of the Stock Exchange, at the end of the entrance nail on the first floor. The chamber is a fine hall 115 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 35 feet high, with Corinthian pillars around the sides. Entrance to the visitors' gallery is from the marble hall of the second floor of the build- ing. Looking down from this gallery, the " pulpit," where the chair- A TOUk OF THE CITY. 125 rtian sits during the sessions, is seen in the middle of the right side of the room ; beyond it the Boston Stock Board ; and opposite that, on the left side of the room, the New York Board, with a nest of tele- phone boxes below. Near the " pulpit " is the telegraph room ; and immediately opposite, on the left side, is the entrance to the bond room. In the block beyond the Exchange Building is the solid stone Fiske Building. The brownstone and yellow brick Farlow Building on the corner of Merchant's Row, and the white marble Richards Building, just below, complete the list of great modern buildings on this quaint old thoroughfare. Newspaper Row. Retracing our way through State to Washington, and again turn- ing to the left, we are in the midst of the newspaper offices. Nt'%vs- paper Row is the name given to that part of Washington Street between State and School streets. The first of these offices to our left, on the east side of the street, is the handsome freestone structure occupied by the Globe. In politics it is Democratic. Just above and adjoining the Globe is The Daily Advertiser s marble building. It covers the site of the shop and dwelling of James Campbell, book- seller and postmaster, who issued the Boston News-Letter, the first newspaper successfully established in North America (1704). This is the oldest morning paper in Boston, the first number hav- ing appeared on March 3, 1813. In politics ^q Advertiser \?, Repub- lican. In 1884, the Advertiser corporation began the publication of The Evening Record, a penny evening paper, agreeing with the Advertiser in politics. On the same side of the street, near the corner of Water Street, is the building of the Boston Journal, a Republican morning and evening paper, which was first published, in 1833, under the name of the Evening Merca7itile Journal. Its present name was adopted when the publication of the morning edition was begun, in 1837. On the opposite side of Washington Street are the Herald and Post buildings. The Bostott Herald, a morning, evening, and Sunday paper, independent in its political relations, was founded in 1846. Its present building, in the French Renaissance style, has been occupied since 1878, and is one of the best equipped -offices in the city. Next to the Herald Building is the home of the Boston Post, a Democratic morning paper, founded by Charles G. Greene, in 1831. 136 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. School Street and the City Hall. A few steps down AVashington Street brings us to the corner of School Street, where stands the Old Corner Book Store. [See " Old Landmarks"]. School Street is a short, but crowded, thoroughfare, running from Washington to Tremont Street. On our right is the brownstone and brick front of the Niles Block, on the site of the dwelling of Dr. John Warren, first professor of surgery in Har- vard University, and brother to Dr. Joseph Warren, one of the heroes killed at Bunker Hill. On the opposite side of the street, where the School Street Block now stands, was the Huguenot Meeting-House, built in 1704, and this same meeting-house, in 17S8, was transformed into the first Catholic church. A few steps brings us to the City Hall , a white granite building, erected in 1865. It is in the Italian Renaissance style, crowned by a Louvre dome. Within this building are the rooms of the mayor, the halls of the board of aldermen and common council, and other city offices. In the dome is the central point of the fire-alarm telegraph system. In the yard, at the left of the entrance, is a fine bronze portrait statue of Beftjamin Franklin; by Richard S. Greenough. The statue is eight feet high, and stands on a pedestal of Quincy granite, capped by a block of verd-antique. On the bronze medallions are represented important events in Frank- lin's life: South Face.— The boy in the printing office; with this inscription below: "Born in Boston, 17 January, 1706; died in Philadelphia, 17 April, 1790." North Face.— His experiment with the lightning; with this inscription: "■^ Eripuit CBclo fulmen, sceptruinqiie tyi-annisy East Face. — Signing the Declaration of Independence, 4 July, 1776. West Face.— Treaty of Peace and Independence, 3 September, 1782. The statite of Josiah Quincy, on the right, is by Thomas Ball. The figure is heroic, and stands on a pedestal of Italian marble. The pedestal, which was also designed by Ball, bears the following inscription: JosiAH Quincy. 1772-1864. Massachusetts Senate, 1804. Congress, 1805-1813. Judge of Municipal Court, 1822. Mayor of Boston, 1823-1828. President of Harvard University, 1829-1845. This statue was erected with money drawn from a trust fund A TOUR OF THE CITY. 127 established, in i860, by Jonathan PhilHps, who bequeathed to the city $20,000, " the income from which shall be annually expended to adorn and embellish the streets and public places." King's Chapel [see chapter entitled " Old Landmarks"] is next to the City Hall, wnile across the street the Parker House [see remarks on " Hotels " in Chapter I] lifts its marble front and fills in the block from Chapman Place to Tremont Street. ScoUay Square and Vicinity. As we turn into the narrow, crowded thoroughfare of Tremont Street, we notice, on the northeast corner of Beacon and Tremont streets, the great department store of Houghton & Button. On our right, after passing King's Chapel and the burying ground, we come to the Boston Museum Building [see Chapter V] and, on the corner of Tremont and Court streets, the brown stone Hemejizvay B nil ding, marking the site of an old house in which General Washington stayed during his visit to Boston in 1789. Scollay Square, an irreg- ular triangle, caused by the removal of the old Scollay Building, is the terminal point of several street-car lines, and contains one of the principal transfer stations of the Subway. The main feature of the place is the bronze statue of Governor John Winthrop, by Richard S. Greenough. The statue was erected in 1880, and was also paid for out of the Jonathan Phillips fund. It is a duplicate of that standing in the Capitol at Washington. Winthrop is represented as just landed in the New World. In his right hand is the Colony Charter, and in his left the Bible. At his back is shown a newly cut forest tree, with a rope attached, significant of the fastening of the boat in which he is supposed to have come to the shore. Crossing Scollay Square to the entrance of Pemberton Square, we can see the front of the County Court House, which stretches across the entire length of the square. It is a massive granite building, in the German Renaissance style, 450 long, 190 feet in its greatest width, and 85 feet high. The building incloses four court-yards, which have an area of 14,632 feet. About these court-yards are grouped the rooms and corridors. The building covers 65,356 feet. The entrance for judges and jury are in the rear of the building. The imposing entrance hall is ornamented by a series of emblematic statues by Dominga Mora. They represent Law, Justice, Wisdom, Innocence, 128 VAUDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and Guilt. George A. Clough was the architect of this building, which was begun in 1871, and cost $2,500,000. Keeping to the left around Pemberton Square, we enter Somerset Street, and, turning to the left again, we pass Jacob Sleeper Hall, chief building of Boston University. Let us now walk along Beacon Street to the south. On the east side of the street is the building of the Boston Athenaeum, nearly opposite this the Hotel Bellevue, and next beyond this the massive brownstone Un/farian House. Here are the denominational book salesrooms, offices and committee rooms of the American Unitarian Association, the Unitarian Sunday School Society, which compre- hends the whole country, and the Benevolent Fraternity of Churches; and on the upper floor, '' Channing Hall." Congregational House, containing " Pilgrim Hall," is opposite it. At the corner of Beacon and Park streets is the Raymond Build- ing, formerly one of the finest houses in the city. It was built, in 1804, by Thomas Amory, and was called "Amory's Folly," because of its great size and costliness. It was at a later period divided into four dv/ellings. Among the distinguished people who have, at differ- ent times, been its tenants, were Gov. Christopher Gore, Samuel Dexter, the great lawyer and statesman, and Edward G. Malbone, the miniature painter. Lafayette stayed here for two weeks, in 1824, as the guest of the city, the house having been rented for this pur- pose by Mayor Quincy. The Shaw Monument is immediately opposite this corner, on the edge of the Common. Beacon Hill. The next object to claim our attention is the State House, on the highest point of Beacon Hill. This fine old building is approached by a broad flight of stone steps. In the yard, on the right, is a bronze statue of Webster, by Hiram Powers; on the left, one of Horace Mann, by Emma Stebbins. The State House, with its gilded dome, is visible from many parts of the city and harbor. The land on which it stands was Governor Hancock's cow pasture, and was purchased from his heirs by the town and A TOUR OF THE CITY. 129 given to the State. The building was designed by Bulfinch, the first and one of the greatest of American architects. The corner- stone was laid by the Free Masons (Paul Revere, Grand Master), July 4, 1795. It was first occupied by the Legislature in January, 1798. In 1S53-56, it was extended northerly to Mount Vernon Street, and, a few years later, its interior was remodeled. In 1874, it was extensively repaired, and its dome was gilded, and in 1SS9, the State's business having outgrown it, the Legislature authorized the construction of the " State House Extension " in the rear of the original building. The extension is of yellow brick, with trimmings of white marble, simulating the familiar yellow and white of the " Colonial " style. Its design was intended to harmonize with that b}' Bulfinch, but the result is generally regarded as infelicitous, being severely criticised as out of scale and weak in effect, though having the merit of considerable good detail. The entrance halls of the State House are magnificent apartments of marble, the interior one, admitting by splendid staircases to Ihe Legislative Halls above being particularly imposing. The front, or " Doric," hall contains two statues, one of Washing- ton, by Chantrey, and one of Governor Andrew, by Thomas Ball. The interior of the extension is pleasant, cheerful, well ven- tilated, and, for the most part, convenient. It is occupied by the various administrative and executive departments of the common- wealth, and includes two large and handsome halls — that of the House of Representatives and the State Library, besides various legislative committee-rooms, etc. The Senate remains in its chamber in the old building. The new Hall of Representatives is a handsome and richly decorated room, considerably larger than the old hall, but lacking the stately beauty of the latter, which is one of Bulfinch's finest interiors. The acoustic properties of the old hall are perfect, but those of the former turn out to be very defective. The decorations of the new hall, by Mr. Frank Hill Smith, are very handsome. Its amphitheater shape, with domed ceiling, lends itself well to line decorative effects. The treatment is in the Italian Renaissance. Prominent features of the scheme are the names of fifty-three men, eminent in Massachusetts history, inscribed on the frieze, beginning with John Carver and ending 130 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. with Phillips Brooks; the names of the counties in the stained- glass skylight, and the symbols of Statecraft, Law, Commerce, Science, Industry, the Arts, etc., that occupy panels in the coving and elsewhere. Grounds of considerable extent have been taken east of the State House to form open gardens. These have a fine outlook, and are adorned by two monuments. One is a heroic bronze statue to Major- General Charles Devens, famous in the Civil War, modeled hy the late Olin T. Warner. The other is a lofty granite column, bearing a great bronze spread eagle, which is "to commemorate that train of svents which led to the American Revolution, and finally secured Liberty and Independence to the United States." It was "erected by the voluntary subscriptions of the citizens of Boston." It is further interesting from the following facts : "In 1634 the General Court caused a beacon [whence the name Beacon Hill and Street] to be placed on the top of this hill. In 1790 a brick and stone monument, designed by Charles Bulfinch, replaced the beacon, but was removed in iSii, when the hill was cut down. It is now repro- duced in stone by the Bunker Hill Monument Association, 1898." Just beyond the State House, in the fence in front of a modern brownstone house, is a tablet announcing that here once stood the Hancock Ma7tsi0ii, which, in its day, was one of the finest mansions in the town. Built, in 1737, by Thomas Hancock, it was inherited by his nephew, John Hancock. It was taken down, in 1863, to make room for modern improvements. At the corner of Beacon and ]oy streets is the lofty Hotel Tudor, one of the largest and finest apartment houses in Boston. In its rear, No. i Joy Street, is the Diocesan House, used by the various organizations of the Protestant Episcopal Church. The house be- longs to the Ejiiscopal Church Association. Tliroug'h the Coinmoii and Public Garden. Now, let us cross Beacon Street and enter f/tc Cominon by way of the Joy Street gate. By taking the path to the right and skirting the Frog Pond to its western extremity, we shall strike a path leading to the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument. .[See The Common, in Chap- ter III.] Leaving the Common by the Charles Street gate, and crossing the street, we are at' once in the midst of the beauties of the Public Garden. [See The Public Garden, in Chaj^ter III.] If we A TOUR OF THE CITY. 131 follow the main walk across the bridge to the Arlington Street gate, we shall have time to view the beautiful equestrian statue of Wash- ington, and the fountain and Ether Monument to our right. Coniinonwealtli Avenue. We now cross Arlington Street and enter the stately boulevard, Cominomvealth Avemie, with a shady parkway through its center, and palatial homes lining it on either side. AVe will follow the shady central path and, quite near Arlington Street, we pass the granite statue of Alexander Hamilton, the work of Dr. William Rimmer. This was the gift to the city of Thomas Lee, the donor of the " Ether Monument " in the Public Garden. Just beyond Berkeley Street is the bronze statue of Gen. John Glover, commander of the Marble- head Marine Regiment in the Continental Army. This is Martin Milmore's work, and was presented to the city by Benjamin T. Reed. Crossing Clarendon Street, at the left is the beautiful First Bap- tist Church, described in Chapter VII. On the southeast corner of Dartmouth Street is the Vendome, its white marble front extending along the avenue a distance of 240 feet. In front of the Vendome in the parkway is a bronze statue of William Lloyd Garrison, the great anti-slavery agitator. The statue is the work of Olin L. Warner of New York. This is one of the best portrait statues in the city. On one side of the pedestal is cut Garrison's daring declaration : " I am in earnest; I will not equivocate; I will not excuse; I will not retreat a single inch; and I will be heard." And on the other side: " j\Iy country is the world; my countrymen are all mankind." Copley Square. We will now turn back to the corner of Dartmouth Street, and keep on the right side of that street to Copley Square. On the corner of Newbury we pass the Boston Art Club's home, and opposite, on our left, the Victoria Hotel, a brick building with crenelated trim- mings and battlemented top. Here we catch a glimpse of Copley Square, the center of artistic, literary, and educational life in Boston. At our right, on the corner of Boylston and Dartmouth, is the new Old South Church. Facing the square is the chaste and classic front of the new Public Library, with 12 132 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. its enormous pedestals at either side of the entrance, waiting for St. Gaudens' groups, and much of the expanse of its pale walls covered richly with the names of the world's greatest men. On the south side is the Museum of Fine Arts, with matchless treasures of Oriental art, and at the east stands Trinity, with its beautiful central tower and its quiet cloisters. On the north side of the square are the Second Unitarian Church, Girls' Latin School, and two apartment houses. A recent writer, in speaking of this most attractive part of the town, says: " Copley Square, at certain hours of the day, presents the aspects of a new Latin quarter, so conspicuously does the student element predominate in the throngs that cover its pavements. Here the currents intermingle and cross, now tending toward the Massa- chusetts Institute of Technology, on Boylston Street (' Tech ' is the only name ever given this great scientific school in Boston); now hurrying toward the Harvard Medical School; now making for the three busy art schools in the neighborhood — those of the Museum of Fine Arts, the Massachusetts Normal Art School, the Cowles Art School; and, eddying aside from the main currents, go the thou- sands of school-boys and school-girls, bound for the countless public and private schools of the Back Bay and the South End — one build- ing alone, that of the jDublic Latin and English High Schools, con- taining nearly 2,000 boys, who come to it from all parts of Greater Boston." To Cambridge via Harvard Bridge. And now we will take an electric car going south on Boylston Street, with " Harvard Square" on end sign, and visit Harvard Col- lege, in Cambridge, but which, in reality, spreads all over Boston. Our route is along Boylston Street to Massachusetts Avenue and west- ward across Harvard Bridge. As Ave cross Commonwealth Avenue we catch a ileeting glimpse of Miss Whitney's statute of Leif Ericsson and the Fens. From the bridge we can look back on our right and see the houses of the Back Bay region. While speeding along Massa- chusetts Avenue, we must notice on our right, at the corner of Inman Street, the City Hall, a gift to the city from a former resident.C [See Ca))ibrtdi^c\\\\ Chajiter H, and Harvard Univcr sit y,\rv Chapter VL] In returning to Boston, we take the Bowdoin Square car, which, starting from Harvard Square, passes along Kirkland, Cambridge, A TOUR OF THE CITY. 133 and Bridge streets; Craigie Bridge, which affords a good view of Chai'lesbank [see Charlesbank, in Chapter III], Leverett, Causeway, Portland, and Sudbury streets to Bowdoin Square. Here we will leave this car and board another, which passes along the famous old Corn- hill to Adams Square, where Washington Street is entered. Charlestowii and Bunker Hill. The car crosses Hanover Street to Haj'market Square; passes through Beverly Street, and then across the broad bridge to Charles- town. On the right, as we cross the bridge, we have glimpses of the harbor and shipping, while on our left are the railroad bridges. Crossing City Square, with the Waverly Hotel on one side, and the old City Hall of Charlestown ahead, the car runs off on Park Street. lAs it enters Warren Street, the Navy Yard can be seen down a long street to the right, and just ahead is the Charlestown Soldiers' Monu- ment, the work of Martin Milmore. Three squares beyond, on look- ling up Monument Street to the right, and at its head, we see the granite obelisk of Bunker Hill Monument. [See Charlesfown and \Bti)iker Hill Monument, in Chapter H.] 1 Returning by the same route, we shall find ourselves back at the 'point from whence we started, having covered much of the territory knd noted many of the points which, from historical or other fame, are .■nost attractive to visitors. X. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. The Harbor. — The advantages of Boston Harbor have often been recounted by scientists, and are constantly experienced by those who go down to the sea in ships. The facility and safety of its approaches, the ample width and depth of its entrance, and the shelter and tran- quility of its roadsteads, are not surpassed b}^ those of any harbor in the world. Her interior water-space is divided by chains of islands into basins, which offer sufficient room for 500 shijas of the largest class to ride freely at anchor, and sufficient tranquility for the frailest pleasure craft. But it is not of these things that the average tourist will think as he stands on the deck of one of the harbor steamboats that ply between the city, and the towns, and the resorts that line the shores on either hand. The surpassing loveliness of the harbor, its surface dotted with numberless islands of fantastic shape, and its irregular and picturesque shores, will hold him spell-bound, and for- getful of scientific data and historical legend. And Boston has nothing better, in the way of entertainment, to offer to her guests than a sail on the blue waters of her bay. Most of the islands have a history which it would be interesting to review, and those who are tracing resemblances will find amusing the fol- lowing description by Doctor Shurtleff : "Noddle's Island, or East Boston, as it is now called, very much resembles a great polar bear, with its head north and its feet east. Governor's J.sland has much, the form of a ham, and Castle Island looks like a shoulder of pork, both with their shanks at the south. Apple Island was, probabl5^ so named on account of its shape ; and Snake Island may be likened to a kidney ; Deer Island is very like a whale facing Point Shirley ; (134) BOSTOM HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 135 Thompson's Island, like a very young unfledged chicken ; Spectacle Island, like a pair of spectacles ; Long Island, like a high-top mili- tary boot ; Rainsford's Island, like a mink ; Moon Island, like a leg of venison ; Gallop's (not Galloupe's), like a leg of mutton ; Lovell's, like a dried salt fish ; George's, like a fortress as it is ; Peddock's, like a young sea monster ; and Half Moon, like the new or the old moon, as you view it from the south or the north. The other small islands resemble pumpkins, grapes, and nuts, as much as anything; hence the names of them." Two defunct forts slumber in Boston Harbor — Fort Independence, on Castle Island, and Forf Winthrop, on Governor's Island. A third. Fort IVarren, alive and armed with several hundred watchful eyes, stands guard at the entrance to the harbor, on George's Island. The Islands. Castle Island was the first fortified island in the country. Here, in 1634, the Colonists erected rude fortifications, which were replaced, in i7oi,by Castle William, a brick fort. This was burned by the British when they evacuated Boston in March, 1776. The Provincial forces then took possession of the island and repaired the fort. In 1797, its name was formally changed to Fort Independence, President John Adams attending the ceremonies. The island was ceded to the General Government in 1798. This island was the scene of many fatal duels in the early days, and a memorial stone of such an event is still standing, which relates that " near this spot, on the 25th of Dec, 1817, fell Lieut. Robert F. Massie, aged 21," and bears these lines : " Here Honor comes, a Pilgiim gray, To deck the turf, that wraps his clay.' From 1785 to 1805, it was the place of confinement of prisoners sentenced to hard labor, provision that this privilege should be retained having been made in the act of cession to the Federal Government. The present fort was built about the year 1855, and a small portion of the wall of the old castle remains in the rear part of the fortifica- tion. Castle Island, as we have seen in Chapter HI, is now a part of the public park system, connected with the Marine Park on South Boston Point. Governor's Island, just north of Castle Island, was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and was, subsequently, confirmed to his 13G HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. heirs, in 1640 the condition was made tliat its owner should pay one l)ushel of apples to the general court, and one to the Governor, every winter. The island continued in the sole possession of the Winthi'op family until 1808, when part of it was sold to the Government, for the 23ur|)ose of erecting a fort, which was named Fort Warren. This name was subsequently changed to Fort Winthrop, in honor of the Governor and the early owners of the island. The uncompleted fortifications on this island may sleep on forever, for modern warfare, with its far- reaching bolts, must be waged many miles from this old stronghold. Thompson's Island, to the south of Castle Island, contains the Boston Asylum and Farm School for Indigent Boys. Long Island is about five miles from the city. It contains 182 acres, and has belonged to the city since 1885. Here area United States lighthouse and a battery. The city almshouse for female paupers, which has accommodations for 500 inmates, is on the island, and other public institutions are to be erected in time. The light- house, which was built in 1819, is an iron tower 35 feet in height, and stands on the highest bluff in the harbor. The fixed light is 80 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen, in a clear night, about fifteen miles. The lantern has nine burners. Nix's Mate. — East of Long Island Head is a low, rocky island, on which stands a solid structure of stone, 12 feet in height and 40 feet square. All the stones in this piece of masonry are securely fastened together with copper. L^pon it rests an octagonal pyramid of wood, 20 feet high and painted black. It is supposed that this monument was erected in the earlier years of the present century, though the date is not known. Its purpose was to warn vessels of the dangerous shoals in the harbor. Why the island is called Nix's Mate is uncer- tain. There is a tradition that the mate of a vessel, of which one Captain Nix was master, was executed upon the island for killing the latter. But it was known as "Nix's Island" as long ago as 1636, before any execution for murder or piracy had taken place in the Colony, and this would seem to unsettle this theory. It is a part of the tradition that Nix's mate protested his innocence, and prophesied that the island would be washed away. If such a prophecy was made, it has been fulfilled, for the records show that, in 1636, it con- tained in the neighborhood of twelve acres. There is now not more than one acre of shoal, and there is not a vestige of soil remaining. Several pirates have since been hanged there. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 137 Deer Island, north of Long Island, is where the Houses of Indus- try and Reformation, the city correctional institutions, are located. The island contains 182 acres. Deer Island Beacon, the little light- house off the southern extremity of Deer Island, is the newest light in the harbor, having been established in iSgo. It is a conical frame tovrer, in which is a fixed white light, varied by a red flash every thirty seconds. It is visible twelve nautical miles. George's Island, on which Fort Warren is built, lies amid the currents of the harbor, and commands the main ship channel, Nan- tucket Roads, and the approach to the harbor. Occupied by the only United States garrison in Massachusetts, it is, undoubtedly, the most interesting spot in the harbor. It has not the Puritan traditions of Castle and Governor's islands, for in those early days it was thought too far away to be of much interest. The island was claimed as the property of James Pemberton of Hull, as early as 1622. His pos- session of it was confirmed, and it Avas bought, sold, and inherited by various parties until 1825, when it became the property of the city of Boston. It is now, of course, under the jurisdiction of the United States Governnient. Earthworks were erected on the eastern side of the island, in 1778, for the protection of the French fleet, com- manded by Count d' Estaing, then lying in the roadstead, against the attack of British cruisers. In 1833 work on the present formida- ble fortress was begun, and it was completed in 1850. The granite fortress, designed by General Thayer of Braintree, is built in the shaj^e of a five-pointed star, each point being a bastion. Close to the walls is a deep ditch, the main work being surrounded by a moat, beyond which are other works. The six-acre inclosure is entered through a postern gate, an arch of about five feet in height, opening into another arched portal. When the Civil War broke out there wexe no guns mounted at Fort Warren and no garrison. Governor Andrew, how- ever, sent the Second Battalion of Massachusetts to the island, can- non were placed in position, and the deserted fortress became a strong defense. During the Civil War Fort Warren was used for confinement for noted Confederate prisoners. One empty apartment is pointed out as the residence of Mason and Slidell, the Confederate commissioners to Great Britain and France, who were taken from a British vessel bound from Havana to England, and brought here for safe-keeping. They were well treated and enjoyed life in spite of their confinement. 138 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. On the morning of January i, 1S62, the emissaries were escorted, with their secretaries, to the wharf and took passage to Provincetown, where they embarked in a British war -vessel and proceeded to Eng- land. Alexander Stevens, vice-president of the Confederate States, was also under guard here for five months, in 1865. Generals Gault and Hanson, and Harry Gilmour ; Major-General Johnson, captured, with his whole division, at Spottsylvania, were also among the dis- tinguished prisoners. Since the Civil War, Fort Warren has not slept. The guns bristle on her battlements to warn off the foreign invader ; up and down strides the ever-watchful sentinel ; inside the walls the .men are being trained in the tactics of modern warfare. The only guns that are fired are those to welcome his excellency, the Governor of the Commonwealth, when he visits the post, and at the sunset hour, when their booming resounds across the waters to the neighboring shores. The fortifications are undergoing changes, to meet the require- ments of present methods of warfare, and on the northern and east- ern .sides of Fort Warren, those sides that look out on the broad sweep of the Atlantic, works of solid concrete are being built that will, when finished and manned with 12-inch guns, make a defense that will practically intercept the entrance of foreign war- ships to the harbor. These parapets are to be covered with earth, which, when sodded, will present a beautiful and innocent exterior, conveying no hint of the smoldering volcano within. In time, the walls of the southern and western sides will be leveled, to make way for the newer system, hastened by the events of 1898. Fort Warren is reached by the trim little steamer Resolute, which runs between Boston and the island. Lovell's Island, lying to the north of George's Island, belongs to the United States, and is a Government buoy station. It contains seventy-one acres. Gallop's Island, to the southwest of Lovell's Island, has belonged to the city since iSCo. The main ship channel lies between Lovell's and Gallop's islands. Other islands belonging to the city are: Rainsford's Island, contain- ing seventeen acres, on which is located one of the city institutions ; Spectacle Island, containing sixty-one acres ; Apple Island, contain- ing nine acres, and Moon Island, containing about thirty acres. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 139 which was taken, by right of eminent domain, in 1879, and constitutes the point of discharge of the great sewer. Boston Light is about two miles east of Fort Warren, at the entrance of the harbor. Brewster's Island, on which it stands, has been a lightliouse station since 1715, when the general court of the Colony ordered one established. During the Revolution the light- house was several times destroyed and rebuilt. In 1783, it was once more restored by the State, being built this time of stone, and it has since been enlarged and improved. It is a second-class revolving white light, visible sixteen miles at sea. The tower rises 100 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen at a great distance, even by day. A heavy fog-horn is also placed here to warn approach- ing vessels in the foggy weather, which often prevails. Bug Light is upon the end of a long, sandy spit stretching out from Great Brewster Island. It is supported above high water on a system of iron rods iixed in the rocky ledge, affording no surface for the waves to batter and destroy. It is a fixed red light, standing about thirty feet above the level of the sea. It is visible for about seven nautical miles, and is intended to warn navigators of Hard- ing's Ledge, which is about two miles out at sea, east of Point Aller- ton, and is one of the chief dangers of the harbor. Seaside Resorts. Boston is grandly situated with reference to summer resorts. Along the rocky coast of Massachusetts, stretching away from Boston, to the north and the south, in wonderful curves and inden- tations, including several good harbors, stands a succession of towns where comfort-seeking Bostonians may dwell during the warm months, and yet be within an hour's sail or ride from their places of business. The North Shore and The South Shore, as they have come to be called, are the natural divisions of this chapter, which present themselves for consideration. The North Shore. By the North Shore is meant the northern coast of what was formerly called Massachusetts Bay, but which, on modern maps, is a part of the Atlantic Ocean. It extends from Nahant and Swampscott, on the southwest, to Gloucester and Cape Ann, on the northeast. For the sake of convenience, however, we shall 140 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. include under this heading several resorts which lie between Bos- ton and Nahant. Winthrop is a beautiful peninsula, with about eight miles of beach. Summer cottages and boarding-houses abound, and many of Boston's busy toilers find here a refuge for their families during the heated term, which is within easy distance of their places of business. It is reached by the Winthrop branch of the Revere Beach & Lynn Railway, and by a steamboat. VL(.AQ\'~,.—Argyle Hotel— %i. New Winthrop Hotel— %i. Shh-ley House — 11.50. Revere Beach is a gentle sloping beach of sand, several miles long, Iving between Winthrop and Nahant, and terminating at the north in Point of Pines. It is now a part of the city's park system. Sea bathing is safe and pleasant in the light surf. There are numerous bathing and refreshment houses, and thousands of Bostonians come hither on every hot summer day to enjoy the invigorating sea breezes and the sight of the broad expaiiSe of the ocean. At the Point of Pines are fine hotels, and society is somewhat less heterogeneous than elsewhere on the beach. The Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railway runs directly along the edge of the beach, affording passengers charming sea views all along the route. Hotels. — Gleasoi: House — $2 to $3. Rnssel House — $2 to $4. Washington House— %i. so to $2.50. Nahant, the oldest watering place on the North Shore, is a rocky promontory, stretching out into the sea, nearly at right angles with the coast from Lynn, to which it is joined by a narrow line of sand beach, three miles long, traversed by a single road. It has, for many years, been a favorite resort for old Boston families, and its popularity has never waned among those who have once acquired an interest in its territory. The invigorating coolness of the atmosphere, even on the hottest days; the boldness and picturesqvieness of rock effects, and the illusion of being at sea, are among the characteristics which never lose their charm. Along the water's edge, on the eastern side, stands a magnificent array of cliffs, which, for ruggedness and bold beauty, are not BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 141 surpassed by any on the North Shore. Here is the well-known Pulpit Rock, so named from its shape, to the top of which, in •former days, a venturesome young woman climbed, only to dis- cover that she had to be lowered by ropes. The old hotel, which was burned more than thirty years ago, has never been rebuilt. A successful club, organized within the last few years, is the social center which tempts cottagers from their comfortable piazzas. Dwellers at Nahant are distant, by either sea or land, only an hour from the city. Those who sleep at Nahant can enjoy a delicious sail to the city by steamboat, which is, for those who love water, preferable to a heated, dusty railway journey. At Bass Point, the southwestern jjoint of the peninsula which constitutes Nahant, is a comfortable restaurant, where well-cooked meals may be obtained. Hotels.— Hotel Tudor — %-}, to $5. Hotel Nahant — $2. 50 to $3. Lynn is a city of 50,000 inhabitants, on a plain between the sea and a line of rugged porphyritic hills. It is the chief shoemaking place in the world, and employs in that industry more than 12,000 persons. The once well-known Ocean Stixet of Lynn should not be omitted from any itinerary of the North Shore. It is a short, straight avenue along the sea front. Twenty-five years ago it was divided into fifteen or twenty beautiful estates, of from one to three acres in extent, ranged side by side in stately dignity. They fronted on the avenue, and backed on the full expanse of that portion of the sea which lies under the lee of Nahant. Under the influence of the demand for summer residences, these fine estates have been cut up into smaller building lots, and traversed by connecting streets. The old-time mansions have been pulled down, and, while in a few cases they have been superseded by very elaborate structures, the majority of the new cottages are of the every-day Queen Anne type. Ocean Street is largely occupied by the wealthy shoemakers of Lynn, who live there the year round. Hotels. — Kirtland House — $2. Hotel Seymour— %i to $3. Prescott House — $4. Swampscott is connected with Lynn by a single shore road, which iruns out of Ocean Street. It has, for many years, been a favorite 142 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. camping-ground of Boston people who wish to live by the sea with as little expense and trouble as possible, and, at the same time, be close to the city. Here are several large hotels and boarding-houses, and many sea-shore villas, with picturesque rocky points and inter- vening sandy beaches. Beach Bluff is a residence community east of Swampscott. UotQls.— Hoi el Preston — ^3.^0 to I4. Lincobi House — $3 to %\. Ocean House — $3 to $4. Marblehead.— This quaint old maritime town, in ancient times famous for its fishermen and privateers, is now the center of a group of summer resorts. Marblehead was detached from Salem and incorporated as an independent town, known as Marble Harbor, on May 2, 1649. It is, therefore, one of the oldest towns in New England. It is an interesting town historically and topographically, and its crooked streets and quaint, irregular houses are a study in them- selves. It is connected with Lynn and Salem by electric railroads. Among the historic houses in Marblehead may be mentioned the large white house, nearly opposite the North Church, where Elbridge Gerry, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, Governor of Massachusetts, and Vice-President of the United States, was born. Col. William R. Lee, of Revolutionary fame, once lived in a house just north of the Common. The hero, James Mugford, who captured the British powder ship, once lived in the house on the corner of Back and Mugford streets. The Lee house, now occupied by two banks, was built by Col. Jeremiah Lee, in 1776, at a cost of $50,000. In its day, it was a princely mansion, and is worth a visit now, for its great halls, its grand staircase, and its carved wainscoting may still be seen. The home of Flood (Floyd) Ireson was on Washington, near the head of Franklin Street. The house, is still standing. The oldest building in Marblehead is the old town house, which stands near the junction of Washington and State streets. It was built in 1727, and its walls have resounded to the eloquence of a Gerry, a Story, the Lees, the Ormes, and many others. On high ground rises Abbot Hall, the most important public build- ing of the present day. It was built, in 1877, from a fund left by l>enjamin Abbot, a lifelong resident of the town. A magnificent view is i)l)tained fri>m the tall tower of this building. Marblehead Neck, which lies just across the harbor, is a pcnin- BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 143 sula one and one-fourth miles in length and about half a mile in width. It is approached by a narrow isthmus, formed of rocks and sand washed up by the waves. The ocean side is a bluff, rock- ■bound shore. The harbor, on the northwest side, is nearly a half-mile wide, and is one of the best yacht harbors on the coast. This fact led the members cf the Eastern YacJit Club to make this their head- quarters, and they built a club-house here in iS8o. The Corint/n'ati YacJit Club has also a fine club-house on the Neck. Justoutside this snug harbor, where the yachts of to-day contend for silver cups, the Chesapeake and the Shannon fired deadly broadsides at each other in the summer of 1S13. The Neck is lined with beach cottages and hotels, and it is second to no sea-shore resort in the country for picturesqueness of surround- ings. An interesting electric line runs along the coast. Hotels. — CroiuninsJiield Hotel (Clifton) — Special. Follet House (Marblehead Neck) — Special. Nanepashemet Hotel — $3 to |6. Salem Willows. — The tongue of land stretching out and forming the northern boundary of Salem Harbor is known as the Willows. This is a great point of attraction during the summer season, and every provision is made for the entertainment of the crowds who visit it, by steamboat or by electric cars. Beverly is situated on an indenture of the coast, formed by the harbors of Marblehead and Salem. It was originally a part of ancient Naumkeag, but was incorporated as an independent town in 1668. The fishing business, once quite extensive, is now insignifi- cant, and Beverly is an important shoe-manufacturing town. It is at, and beyond, Beverly that the true grandeur of the North Shore begins. From here to the northeast, as far as the eye can see, lies a marvelous coast, with curving beaches, wooded points, and rugged cliffs, from which you may look out over the blue sea and inhale its fragrance, and, by turning about, find yourself face to face with a rural landscape of quiet woods and green meadows. A succession of fine estates follows the shore, and, almost invariably, the houses stand in the midst of several acres of park-like grounds. Between Beverly and Gloucester are Pride's Crossing and Bev- erly Farms, beyond which lies West Manchester, Manches'.er, and Magnolia, by which names, for the sake of municipal or railway con- venience, one strip of shore is distinguished from another. 144 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Beverly Hotels. — Hotel /rr?//tv— special; Trafton House — %2. Manchester Hotels. — Mascoiiomo—%\ to $5 ; Manc/iester House — li.Sotoilc. Magnolia Hotels. — Hesperus Hotel — $3; T/ie Blynman — $3; Ocean Side — $3; Oak Grove Hotel— %7..^o\ The Magnolia — $3. 50 to !|6; ^4 born — special. Gloucester is thirty-one miles from Boston, by the Boston & Maine Railway. It was settled in 1633, S-i^d. it has always been the important fishing town of this part of the world. Gloucester is in close connection, by electric cars, wdth Eastern Point, Bay View, Lanesville, and other neighborhoods. Hotels at Gloucester are: In the city, Surf side, $3 to $5; at East Gloucester (by electric cars or ferry), Hathorne, Delphine, Harbor View, Merrill Hall, Fairview Cottage, and others, each $2 to $2.50. Eastern Point. — A large number of hotels and cottages will be found on Eastern Point, which forms the easterly boundary of Gloucester Harbor. On the ocean side are the delightful summer resorts known as Bass Rocks, and Good Harbor Beach. Hotels. — Bass hock House — $3. Pavilioji Hotel — $3. The Beachcroft—^-pQc\Si\. The South Shore. The South Shore of Massachusetts Bay presents fewer striking contrasts than the North Shore, but it abounds in charming scenery of sea and land, and it is more emphatically given over to the worship of the summer boarder. From Downer Landing and Hingham, around the queer little peninsula, on whose extremity stands the town of Hull, to Plymouth, the shore is lined with boarding-houses, hotels, and summer cottages. Downer Landing overlooks the broad southern expanses of the liarbor, and it is one of the most delightful resorts near the city. It is reached by steamboats, which run from Rowe's Wharf eight or ten limes daily to Hull, Nantasket, Downer Landing, and Hingham. Twenty years ago it Avas Crow Point, the home of a few cows, that roamed at will over its breezy hillsides. It is a place of quiet, pictur- esque views, and here one may bathe in water that is less cold and more shallow than at the other beaches. Among the attractions of I )o\vner Landing may be mentioned the IMelville Garden with an area of twenty acres, wherein are offered various amusements — boat- BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 145 ing, fishing, bathing, dancing, bowling, shooting, and opportunties for playing billiards, ball, croquet, tennis, lacrosse, and other games. Swings, flying-horses, and all sorts of sport are provided for children. It is a great resort for picnic parties from all sections of Eastern Mas- sachusetts. One of its features consists of an immense clam-bake pavilion — seating nearly i ,000 people at one time — where mammoth heaps of clams are baked upon stones, upon which a hot fire has been burning, placing over them seaweed to hold the heat. Ears of green corn are cooked in the same manner and at the same time. These clam-bakes are greatly enjoyed by the crowds who flock to Downer Landing on hot summer days, crowding the harbor steamers to the limit permitted by law. Hotel. — Rose Standish House — $3. Hingham. — After calling at Downer Landing, the steamer pro- ceeds up the tortuous harbor of Hingham to the quaint old town, which stands at its head. Hingham has many pleasant drives, with fine views of sea and harbor. The visitor will be charmed with the old Colonial houses, and " The Old Ship," the oldest church edifice in the country, dating from 1681, and still in use. In the adjacent graveyard are the statue and tomb of John A. Andrew, the War Governor of Massachusetts, and the monument of General Lincoln, of Revolutionary fame. Hingham is on the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway, which connects with the railroad running north to Nantasket Beach and Hull. Hotels. — Lincoln House— %i. Cits/ling House — $2. Hull is a quiet little town, of less than a thousand inhabitants, standing at the end of the peninsula, which stretches north from the South Shore, and forms a natural breakwater, which protects Boston Harbor. Here, on the high hill, which commands a view of the entire harbor, is the observatory, from which the arrival of vessels, their names, and the point from which they sailed, are telegraphed to the Chamber of Commerce in the city. Hull is only a half-hour from Boston by steamer, and it is the terminus of the railroad, a branch of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Rail- way, which runs the entire length of Nantasket Beach, a distance of five miles. Powerful fortifications were built here in 1898. The leading hostelry of the place is the Hotel Pemberton — %\. 13 146 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Nantasket Beach is to Boston what Coney Island is to New York, in point of accessibility, and the various attractions and amusements provided for visitors. But in its picturesqueness and natural beauty, in the reasonableness of its hotels, and in the character of the crowds who throng it on warm summer days, it is far superior to the monotonous sand beach which is the delight of the metropolis. It is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, sweeping round in a majestic curve, almost as even as a floor, miles in length, and ofiiering unrivaled facilities for bathing, walking, driving, and lounging. There are aquariums, merry-go- rounds, miniature elevated railways, skating-rinks, Punch-and- Judy shows, and all the amusements which are provided to tempt the dimes from the pockets of good-natured visitors. Then there are the fakirs, with toy balloons, whips, peanuts, pop-corn, and lemonade, helping to swell the excitement and clamor; and dime museums, where circus acrobats and fat women pose for the entei'tainment of those who find pleasure in such shows. This beach is lined with hotels and restaurants, which cater to the day excursionists, most of whom scarcely leave the immediate vicinity until they take the steamer for the return trip to the city. No one should leave Nantasket without having taken the drive over the Jerusalem Road, one of the most famous roads in the country, along which one sees a succession of beautiful' summer homes. Hotels. — Atlantic House — $3 to $4.50. Black Rock House — $2 to $3. Nafiiasket House — $2. Rockland House — $4. Nantasket is reached by steamer from Rowe's Wharf, eight or ten times daily, and by the Old Colony division of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway to Hingham, thence by the Nantasket Beach Railway, now operated by electricity. Cohasset is twenty miles from Boston by the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway. It may be reached from Nantasket b}- carriage drive over the beautiful Jerusalem Road, above alluded to. It has a noble, rocky sea front, and is one of the most picturesque and romantic spots along the South Shore. A large theatrical colon}' have their summer homes here. Off shore is the famous Minot's BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 147 Light, a tall tower of masonry, rising from out the ocean and warn- ing navigators of the treacherous Cohasset rocks. Hotels. — Beals House — Special rates. Black Rock House — $3. Cohasset Hotel — $2. Scituate is a little town of less than 3,000 inhabitants, on the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway. Like other places along the shore, it has picturesque bluffs and beaches, with pleasing views over the bay and across the little harbor of the port. Near South Scituate is the estate of a Mr. Worthy, the original of the "Old Oaken Bucket " house. Samuel Wordsworth, the poet, lived here with his stepfather, Mr. Worthy, great-grandfather of the present owner. In i Si 7 he wrote the well-known poem, and the well still gives forth cold and sparkling water. Hotels.— The CZ/^f— $2.50. Mitchell House — fi.50. Marshfield, the home of Daniel Webster, is a quiet seaside place where fishing, yachting, and shooting can be enjoyed to-day as well as when the great statesman here found relief from public cares and worries. Of him everything speaks. Hotels bear his name or boast that he once made them his resting-place; and of these, possibly, the best known is the Brant Rock House, where, in the fall, hundreds of wild fowl may be shot from the very windows. The hotel is directly on the beach, within a few feet of the high-tide line, and in front of it lies the famous rock. Hotels. — Brattt Rock House — $2. Chtir chill House — $2. Humerock House — $3. Duxbury is a picturesque and delightful old Puritan town, where the Anglo- American Cable Company has its station. This was orig- inally the French Atlantic Telegraph Company. Near the summer resort of South Duxbury rises the sightly Captain s Hill, crowned by a lofty round stone tower, erected as a memorial of Miles Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrim Colony, who lived at the base of the hill. This was also the home of John Alden, the hero of Longfellow's beautiful poem ; Elder William Brewster, and other historical worthies. Hotels. — Brunswick House — $2. Powder Point House — Special rates. Miles Standish House — $3. 148 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Plymouth, the resting-place of the Pilgrims, is often called the Mecca of the United States. It is a quiet little town of 8,000 inhab- itants, with charming views across its broad and shallow harbor and out over the broad Atlantic. Back of it are leagues of lake-strewn forest, "The Adii"ondacks of Massachusetts," where herds of deer still linger. Plymouth would be a most desirable summer resort if there were no historic associations to supplement her superb natural attractions. x\s it is, however, the first-named qualifications are those, mainly, that are widely known, and thousands of visitors to her scenes yearly discover that in her woods and shores, her hills, roads, and magnificent rural situations, and in her glorious blending of land and ocean scenery, to say nothing of the salubrity of her climate, she is entitled to claim recognition as one of the finest watering-places in the country. For the benefit of those persons who think only of "Plymouth Rock," the " Mayflower," and other historic matters, Avhen visiting this famed town, the following information is pre- sented: The idea of building a monument to the memory of the Pil- grim Fathers was early entertained in Plymouth, and became the definite object of the Pilgrim Society upon its organization, and, through the efforts of this society, the National Monument to the Pil- grims was erected in 1889. The monument grounds are on Cushman Street, and from them fine views of the harbor, bay, and roadsteads are to be had; of the " Cowyard," where the " j\Iayflower" lay at anchor ; of Clark's Island, upon which the Pilgrims passed their first Sunday ; of the Miles Standish Monument, surmounting Captain's Hill, in Duxbury, and of much fine scenery, if the weather be favorable. The total height of the monument is 81 feet from the ground to the top of the head of the statue. Following are some of the dimensions or this work, said to be the largest and finest piece of granite statuary in the world : Height of the base, 45 feet ; height of statue, 36 feet. The outstretched arm measures, from shoulder to elbow, 10 feet \]A inches ; from elbow to tip of finger, 9 feet 9 inches ; total length of arm, 19 feet io!/< inches. The head measures around at the forehead 13 feet 7 inches. Tlie points of the star in the wreath around the liead are just i foot across. The arm, just below the short sleeve, measures 6 feet 10 inches around ; below the elbow, 6 feet 2 inches. The wrist is 4 feet around. The length of the finger pointing upward is 2 feet 1 inch, and is i foot 8j^ inches ^.round. The lliuiiib BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 149 measures i foot Sji inches around. The circuinference of the neck is Q feet 2 inches, and the nose is i foot 4 inches long. From center to center of the eyes is i foot 6 inches. The figure is 216 times life- size. The plan of the prinqipal pedestal is octagonal, with four small and four large faces. From the small faces project four buttresses, or wing pedestals. On the main pedestal stands the figure of Faith, one foot resting upon Forefathers' Rock, the left hand holding a Bible; the right, uplifted, pointing to heaven. On each of the four smaller, or wing, pedestals is a seated figure. They are emblematic of the principles upon which the Pilgrims proposed to found their Commonwealth. The first is Morality, holding the Decalogue in her left and the scroll of Revelation in her right hand. Her look is upward toward the impersonation of the. Spirit of Religion above. In a niche, on one side of her throne, is a prophet, and in the other one of the Evangelists. The second of these figures is Law : on one side Justice, on the other Mercy. The third is Education : on one side Wisdom, ripe with years; on the other Youth, led by Experience. The fourth figure is Freedom : on one side Peace rests under its pro- tection ; on the other Tyranny is overthrown by its powers. Upon the faces of these projecting pedestals are alto-reliefs, representing scenes from the history of the Pilgrims — the Departure from Delft Haven, the Signing of the Social Compact, the Landing at Plymouth, and the First Treaty with the Indians. Returning from the monument grounds to Court Street (the main street), and passing the head of Old Colony Park, the first interesting point of visitation is Pilgrim Hall, on the same side of the street with the jDark, and distant from it about thirty or forty rods. Within this hall will be found a museum of Pilgrim me- morials and curiosities. A short distance from Pilgrim Hall, still keeping upon Court Street, the court house occupies a commanding site on the right, a pretty lawn in front. In this building are to be found many valuable and curious documents, including the Patent Docu- ments and Records of the Colony, the will of Miles Standish, etc. These will be shown upon application to the Registry of Deeds. The court house is situated at the base of Burial Hill, on the north; but, to visit this famous spot, it is better to return to Court Street and continue the walk southward.. At the head of 150 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. North Street, the name of the main thoroughfare changes from Court to Main Street, and the course is directly through the busi- ness section of the town. Main Street soon abuts upon Leyden Street, the first street laid out by the Pilgrims, and abounding in their memorials to this day. Arrived at Leyden Street, on the right, looking westward, is Town Square, and beyond the square the gravestones of Burial Hill are in full view. On the left, or eastward, the street runs directly to the water front, a side street at the brow of the hill, opposite the first house, winding northerly to Cole's Hill, which overlooks the Rock and its canopy. From Burial Hill a series of the finest outlooks imaginable are afforded, including scenes and localities of greater or less historic importance; and all the immediate neighborhoods are centers of historic associations. Here is the site of the ancient fort, which served as a meeting-house, and toward which the Pilgrims wended their way with muskets upon shoulder or swords in place. The graves of Pilgrims are in every part of this elevated burying ground. Looking outward over the ocean waters, the course of the " Mayflower," her anchorage, Clark's Island, the Gurnet, and all the harbor and bay situations con- nected with Pilgrim adventures are in full view. Landward some notable localities of Council Fii'es and Indian Feasts are to be seen. From Burial Hill standpoints the town lies literally under one's feet. Main Street has three streets abutting upon and running at right angles with it — North Street, Middle Street, and Leyden Street; and each of these leads directly to Cole's Hill and the water front, overlooking the Rock and the shore line. Cole's Hill was the place of burial of many of the Pilgrims who died during the first winter, their graves having been carefully concealed, so that the Indians might not know of them. Here were buried, also, many Indians. The Rock and the original Landing Place are at the base of this steep hill, and a few steps brings the visitor from its brow to the canopy over the Rock. In the War of the Revolution, and in that which followed from 1812 to iSi 5, fortifications were maintained upon this hill. As the distances oceanward are somewhat deceptive to unpracticed eyes, it may be here noted that from the water front opposite the BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 151 canopy of the Rock, the distance to Gurnet Light is within a small fraction of five miles. The length of Plymouth Beach, which forms the outer protection of the harbor, from the Manomet Hills to the extreme point of the beach, is a little more than three and a half miles. The beach, from head to point, is two and five-eighths miles in length. When the Pilgrims landed, this beach was largely covered with forest growth, in which deer and other animals common to the Plymouth woods to this day roamed. A ride on the electric railroad, which pursues the line of the water from Kingston to beyond Hotel Pilgrim, near the base of the Mano- met Hills, will make available a constant succession of harbor a,nd bay views, from constantly changing standpoints, and is one of the best experiences possible to the visitor to the Plymouth locality. If this ride is supplemented by a drive to some more inland point or points within a short distance of the shores, the delights of the Plymouth trip will be indefinitely multiplied. A visit in this way to Morton Park, one of the finest provisions of its kind; Billington Sea, South Ponds, or the White Horse neighborhoods, or in almost any direction along or away from the water front, will richly repay the trouble and expense in making it, and afford the visitor an apprecia- tion of the natural beauties and resources of this ancient town. The Plyjiiouth Steamboat makes one round trip daily from Win- throp Line Wharf, passing the forts and islands mentioned elsewhere in this chapter. Outside of Boston Light, it turns to the southward, down the Old Colony Coast, passing Nantasket Beach, Minot's Ledge Lighthouse, Cohasset, Scituate, Marshfield, and Duxbury. Plymouth is also reached by the Old Colony division of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway. Hotels.— //<9/^/ /'/■/^r/;/?— $2.50 to $3. Samoset House — $2.50 to $3. Plymouth Rock—%2. INDEX. I'AGE A DAMS, Statue of Samuel 123 -Ci- American Academy of Arts and Sciences. _ --- 117 Ames Building .._ ;- 123 Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company "9 Annexed Districts 28 Apartment Houses 22 Apollo Club --- 72 Apple Island - --- ^3° Arnold Arboretum 4° Art Club, The Boston. _ 113 Associated Charities 1 1 1 Athletics -- 74 Austin& Stone's Museum 68 BAGGAGE Transfers and De- livery " Barnum Museum - 69 Base Ball - 75 Bass Point -- 141 Beacon Hill 128 Beverly - '43 Beverly Farms 143 Boarding and Lodging House.s... 23 Boston Athenffium 69, 94 Boston Athletic Association 74 Boston City Hospital -- 109 Boston College 80 Boston Light '39 Boston Medical Library Associa- tion 95 Boston Museum 64, 69 Boston Natural History Museum. 69 Boston Normal School 78 Boston Public Library 88 Boston Symphony Orchestra 73 Boston Theater 65 Boston University 79 Botanical Garden 69 Bowdoin Square Theater 65 Boylston Club - 73 Boys' Latin and English High School - 76 Brewster's Island 139 Brighton District - 33 lirookhne 34 Bug Light 139 Bunker Hill '33 Bunker Hill Monument 32 PAGE Bunker HillMuseum. 69 Burying Ground, Old 59 Bussey Institution 83 pAMBRIDGE ---35- 132 ^ Carney Hospital no Castle Island - 5°! '35 Castle Square Theater _ 65 Cecilia Society - 73 Cemeteries 38 Central Burying Ground 63 Central District 26 Chamber of Commerce 123 Charities and Hospitals 108 Charities, Associated m Charities, Private i" Charlesbank, The _ 47 Charlestown District ---3I) '33 ChauncY Hall School 80 Chestnut Hill Reservoir 33 Chickering Hall 66 Christ Church 58 Churches, Protestant 99 Churches, Roman Catholic 104 CitvHall 126 Clubs, Societies, and Military Organizations 112 Cohasset 146 Columbia Theater. 66 Common, The 42 Commonwealth Avenue 131 Concord - 37 Congregational Library 95 Copley Square 131 Copps Hill Burving Ground 60 Corinthian Yacht Club 143 Country Club. 35 Court House, The County 127 Custom House. 122 DEER Island '37 Dorchester District 3' Downer Landing 144 Duxbury M7 EASTERN Point M4 Eastern Yacht Club m3 Educational Institutions 76 Elks, The Benevolent and Pro- tective Order of 118 Ericsson, Statue of Leif 132 (152) INDEX. 153 PAGE T7ANEUIL Hall 52, 70 -T Fens, The.. 47 Ferries 17 Fine Arts, Museum of 132 Forest Hills Cemetery 40 Fort Independence. 135 Fort Warren 135 Fort Winthrop 135 Franklin Park 48 Franklin, Statue of Benjamin 126 Free Masonry 118 Furnished Rooms 23 PARRISON, Statue of William *J Lloyd 131 General'Theological Library 95 George's Island 137 Girls' Latin and High School 77 Gloucester 144 Glover, Statue of Gen. John 131 Governinent Building 121 Governor's Island _ 135 Grand Museum 66 Grand Opera House 66 Great Brevv^ster Island 139 Greater Boston 34 Gallop's Island _ 138 "LJACKS and Cabs 12 ■L-L Handel and Haydn Societv, 73 Harbor, The ...'.. 134 Harvard Bridge 132 Harvard Dental School 84 Harvard Medical School 84, 132 Harvard Musical Association 73 Harvard University 80 Hemenway Building 127 Hingham 145 Historic Genealogical Collection . 70 Hollis Street Theater 66 Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes 78 Horticultural Hall 67 Hospitals 108 Hotels 17 Howard Athenagum.. 66 Hull. 145 Huntington Hall _ 66 TACOB Sleeper Hall.. 128 J Jamaica Park 48 TT'EITH'S New Theater 67 -•^ King's Chapel 57 King's Chapel Burying Ground .. 59 Krino Grotto Museum and Gar- dens 70 T ECTURES 75 •^ Leverett Park 47 Libraries 76, 87 Long Island 136 Lovell's Island 138 PAGE Lyceum Theater 67 Lynn 36, 141 A/TAGNOLIA 143 '^^ Manchester... 143 ]\Iann, Statue of Horace 128 M arblehead [42 Marblehead Neck 142 Marine Park, The 50 Marshlield _ 147 Masonic Temple. 118 Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association 117 Massachusetts College of Pharmacy 85 Massachusetts General Hospital.. 108 Massachusetts Historical Museum 70 Massachusetts Historical Society. 117 Massachusetts Historical Society Library _. 95 Massachusetts Homoeopathic Hos- pital 109 Massachusetts Institute of Tech- nology .84, 132 Mechanics' Hall. 68 Medford 36 Metropolitan Boston 34 Military Organizations 118 Milk Street 121 Moon Island 138 Mount Auburn Cemetery.. 38 Museuins and Collections 69 Museum (Agassiz) of Compara- tive Zoology 70 Museum of Fine Arts 96, 132 j\Iusic and Musical Societies 72 Music Hall. 67 TVTAHANT. 140 -L^ Nantasket Beach 146 Natural History Museum Library 95 Navy Yard 32 New England Conservatory of Music 85 New England Historic Genealog- ical Societ}^ 95, 117 Newspaper Row 125 Newton 36 Nix's Mate.. 136 Normal Art School. 86 North End 25 North Shore, The 139 ODD Fellows 118 Old Corner Book Store, The. 57 Old Granary Burving Ground 62 Old South Meeting House, The... 56 Old South Museum, The 71 Old State House 54 Old State House Collection.. 71 Orpheus Musical Society. 73 pALACE Theater.... 68 -•- Parks and Squares 42 154 INDEX. PAGE Park Square Station 9 Park Theater 68 Peabody Museum of American Archasology and Ethnology.. 71 Pemberton Square 127 Perkins Institution and Massa- chusetts School for the Blind. 86 Plymouth 148 Plymouth Rock 148 Pride's Crossing _ 143 Protestant Churches. 99 Protestant Episcopal Theological School 86 Public Garden 44 Public Library 131 Public Park System, The New 46 QUINCY Market, The 123 Quincy, Statue of Josiah 126 "DAILWAY Stations 7 •^^ Rainsford's Island... 138 Religious Organizations 106 Restaurants 21 Revere Beach 143 Roman Catholic Churches 104 Roxbur y District, The 30 QT. John's Boston Ecclesiastical ^ Seminary.. 87 Salem 36 Salem Willows 143 School Street 126 School of Veterinary Medicine... 84 Schools, Private 87 Schools, Public 76 Scituate 147 Scollay Square , 127 Sears Building 124 Seaside Resorts 139 Secret Orders 118 Social Law Library 96 Societies, Scientific and Learned. 117 Societies for Social Improvement 107 Society of Decorative Art 113 Soldiers' Monument, Charlestown 133 Somerville 36 South Boston 29 South Duxbury 147 PAGE South End 27 South Shore 144 Spectacle Island. 138 Sports, Field 74 State House 128 State House Collection 72 State Library of Massachusetts .. 96 State Street 124 Steamers, Coastwise and River .. 10 Steamers, Sound 9 Steamships, Trans- Atlantic 10 Stock Exchange 124 Street Car Routes 13 Street Car Transfers 15 Subway, The 26 Sunday in Boston 98 Swampscott ' 141 n^HEATERS and other Amuse- ■*- ments 64 Thomas Park 29 Thompson's Island. 136 Tremont Temple 69 Tremont Theater 68 Turnhalle, The 69 UNION STATION (Northern^.. 9 Union Station (Southern) 8 VyARREN Museum of Natural *'' History 71 Washington "Street. 120 Webster, Statue of 128 Wellesley College 87 West End, The. 27 West Manchester 143 West Roxbury District, The 33 Winthrop... 140 Winthrop, Statue of John 127 Women's Educational and Indus- trial Union 108 YOUNG Men's Christian Asso- ciation 107 Young Men's Christian Union 107 Young Men's Hebrew Association 107 Young Women's Christian Asso- ciation 107 TRAVEL NOTES. THE CLYDE LINE. No steamers sailing out of New Yorlc are more deservedly popular thau those of the Clyde Line to Charleston and Jacksonville, Florida. One of these admirable steamships may be taken three days a week, at 3 p. M., from pier 45 N. R., adjoining Christopher Street Ferry, New York, and Charleston is reached about noon of the second day, and Jacksonville some twelve to sixteen hours later, giving several hours for rambling al)OUt Charleston, while the steamer is disposing of its business at that always interesting port. The oceanic fleet of the Clyde Line now consists of half a dozen steamships, built of steel after the most approved methods, and oflBcered, manned, and equipped in the most effective and comfortable manner. The three largest of these steamers, the Iroquois, Comanche, and Algon- quin, measure about 4,000 tons each, and are new in construction and equipped and furnished in the most modern manner. The other two, Seminole and Carib, are a little smaller, but otherwise just as good and comfortable, and the large number of habitual travelers upon this line confess that there is little choice among the whole fleet. Each steamer, besides all the known improvements in machinery, life-pro- tecting appliances, etc., is luxuriously furnished, provided with electric lights, bells, fans, etc., and has most of its staterooms opening upon the upper deck, while all are well ventilated. The fare served on this line has long had a high reputation for abundance and excellent cooking — none better is served in any ocean service — due not only to good stewardship, but the variety of marketing afforded by the weekly visits of each boat to both southern and northern points of supply. While the Clyde Line lays especial stress upon the carriage of travel- ers to and from the southern winter resorts (and it must not be for- gotten that the line of splendid St. Johns River boats, between Jack- sonville and Palatka, is managed by this company), it also has a large amount of general passenger business, as it sells tickets and checks baggage between New York and all interior points in the South and Southwest, by way either of Charleston or of Jacksonville. There are a large number of travelers who much prefer to make a part of their journey by water, and to these the Clyde Line offers a delightful sea voyage, rates cheaper than the railroad charges overland, and greater rest and comfort on the way. (155) ■ 15(1 TRAVEL NOTES. GREEN'S HOTEL, PHILADELPHIA. No hotel in Pliiladelphia is more widely or better kuowu among busi- ness men and good livers generally, than Green's. It has outlived most of the competitors of its early days, and has survived them by intelli- gentlj^ keeping abreast of the demand of the times. It has stood so long in the now enlarged and commodious building at the corner of Chestnut and Eighth streets, that the locality hardly needs mention. It is an advantageous situation, being just midway between the wholesale commercial districts, nearer the river, and the retail shopping streets somewhat above that point. It is convenient also to the postofflce. Independence Hall, and several other historical points, many of the principal theaters, and to ail the railway stations and points of depar- ture for the seaside. This hotel now contains no less than 250 rooms, offering homelike quarters to ladies and families as well as to business men traveling alone. It is fully supplied with elevators, fire-escapes, electric lights and bells, baths, and all other requirements of a modern hostelry. The management is entirely in accordance with the European plan, room? renting at fl and fl.50 a day, and meals offered in what the proprietor asserts to be the "finest restaurant in Philadelphia." This restaurant is one of the institutions of the Quaker City, long renowned, especially for its methods of serving oysters and game. It is of large size, handsomely adorned, able to give a simple, well-cooked lunch, or serve an elaborate dinner, and gives, by its host of well-trained colored waiters, an air of the old-time hospitality which has so long attracted patrons who enjoy the best. HOTEL EMPIRE, NEW YORK. One of the newest and greatest of the modern and imposing hotels tliat have been erected in the upper part of the city of New York, of late, is the Hotel Empire. It occupies an admirable central position on the Boulevard at ()8d Street, near Central Park, and one accessible by a great number of lin(!S of transportation. Stations of the Sixth and Ninth Avenue Elevated railways are only a couple of blocks away, and electric cars pass the door, reaching all parts of the great town. At the same time the hotel is sufficiently removed from the roar and dust of Broadway or the business avenues to insure thai iiuiet and good air \viiich is so desirable in one's abiding place. TRAVEL NOTES. 157 This hotel is of great size, imposing appearance, and fire-proof con- struction. Its arrangements and conveniences include the most recent improvements in hotel structure and equipment, and the art of the decorator has been lavishly employed. In this manner safety, sanita- tion, comfort, and beauty have combined to render the hotel so lux- urious that to call it "homelike " would be to compare it only with the palaces of the wealthiest. Guests are entertained at the Hotel Empire according to the American plan (which is preferred by the many fami- lies which make it an almost permanent home), or upon the European plan. For the accommodation of the latter class an elegant restaurant is maintained, which is regarded as among those of the highest class in the city in all respects. Nowhere can better cooking be found, or more skillful service. The experience of many fastidious travelers sustains the truth of these assertions. HOTEL EARLINGTON, NEW YORK. Practically a new house is the Hotel Earliugton, in Twenty-seventh Street, near Broadway. Formerly known as the Gerlach, it was run as a family hotel, but now that it is to be used for the transient trade as well, it has been thoroughly made over, wholly remodeled on the in- side, and refurnished, all at an outlay of nearly $200,000. The building itself cost $1,000,000. Even the proprietorship has been changed, and in future it will be managed by E. M. Earle & Son, who for thirty years were connected with Earle's Hotel, and who now manage the Hotel Earlington and the St. James, at Richfield Springs, N. Y. Among the innovations made in the West Twenty-seventh Street house by the Earles is a system of telephones and call bells connecting every apartment with the office. Over three thousand electric lamps light the hoti'l, supplied by its own private plant. Steam heat is used, and the elevators are large, and run all night from floor to roof. The house is ten stories high and overtops the surrounding buildings so far as to afford excellent light on all sides and fine ventilation. There are no inside or dark rooms. The building is guaranteed to be fireproof, ami is constructed of iron, granite, and brick, with filled floors. Only the walls and floors were retained in the reconstruction. An orchestra in tliL' dining room will be a permanent feature. The house contains two hundred and fifty guest chambers, Avhich are so arranged that they can be let singly or in suites of two, three, four, or up to seven rooms each. Every single room has a private bath attached, also stationary wash- 158 TRAVEL NOTES. Stands, with hot and cold water. While the transient trade will be catered to, yet the family trade will be treated with the greatest care. The situation of the Earlington is considered excellent for a modern hotel of the first rank. It is within easy reach of the best shopping district and the theaters. The Broadway cable cars pass it close to the east, the Sixth Avenue electric cars lie just to the west, and the Twenty- eighth Street station of the elevated railroad is only one block away. By these lines and the use of transfer tickets, the hotel is quickly and economically reached from all railway stations, ferry slips, and steamer piers. UNITED STATES HOTEL, SARATOGA, N. Y. The United States Hotel at Saratoga Springs is so far-famed and so thoroughly popular that it hardly seems possible to say anything new regarding it. It is one of the institutions of America. Within its walls gather each year thousands of the representatives of the world of fashion, wealth, and refinement. It is in itself a great social capital, and is on a scale so grand that its very magnitude is impressive. Within a court formed by three sides of the hotel is one of the loveliest private gardens in America, filled with beautiful fountains, the rarest of shrubs, and no more brilliant scene is to be found anywh.ere than is here presented each evening, when the park and the surrounding piazzas are thronged with the gay concourse of guests. The finest music is rendered morn- ing, afternoon, and evening on the broad porches, and even a glimpse of the brilliant scenes for which the United States Hotel is famous will long linger in the mind. Its very immensity is a charm in itself, for there is in the great cortidors, parlors, and dining rooms a sense of freedom from all restraint. It is like roaming about a great baronial palace, yourself a prince, with vistas, through the liallways and from the windows on the one side, of fairy-like gardens, with glistening fountains, and the air fragrant with the verdure, and on the other, the gay l)oulevards of the city of Sara- toga, alive with the handsome equipages and trappings of fashion and weaidi. The cuisine of the United States is to the uninitiated a marvel, and tt> those accustomed to all the good things of life a joy and satis- faction. The markets of New York are drawn upon heavilj^ each day for all the luxuries and delicacies of the season, and the fertile country about Saratoga for vegetables and the dairy products for which the region i-^ famous. TRAVEL NOTES. 159 This hotel is one of the most perfectly appointed and beautiful in the world, and the visitor who spends a day, a month, or a season within its hospitable portals will ever recur with pleasure to the experience. THE YARMOUTH LINE. Steamers of the Yarmouth Steamship Co. sail from Lewis Wharf, Boston, for Yarmouth, N. S., at noon every Tuesday and Friday throughout the year. From July until October additional sailings are made from Boston at same hour on Monday and Thursday. Connec- tions are made next morning at Yarmouth by train and boat for all points in the Maritime Provinces. The boats of the Yarmouth Steam- ship Line go direct from Boston to Yarmouth, the neai-est point in Nova Scotia. It is much the quickest and most convenient route. In fact, the people of this country owe a great debt of gratitude to the Yarmouth Steamship Line; for had it not been for this enterprising company, the beauties of Nova Scotia w.ouUl have been known to com- paratively few. For when it was necessary, in order to reach the laud of Evangeline, to make a long, tedious, and expensive railroad tour through Maine and New Brunswick, it was far too inaccessible for the majority of people. But when, some few years ago, the Yarmouth Company built the beautiful steel steamer Yarmouth, which made the distance from Boston to Yarmouth in fourteen or fifteen hours, they brought this delightful land within reach of all; and when the further fact is taken into consideration that this trip, this ocean voyage to a foreign land and back, can be made for the trifling sum of $9, there is really no reason why every American should not be able to go abroad every summer. So popular did this steamship line become after the Tannouth was placed in service, that two years ago another boat, larger, still swifter, and handsomer, was added to the line — the Boston. The Boston is a steel boat, built on the Clyde, measuring some 255 feet, of 1,700 tons burden, and having over 4,500 horse power. She is beau- tifully furnished in saloon, in cabin, and stateroom. She has some eighty staterooms, and can accommodate 350 passengers. In fact, the Boston and the Yarmouth are by far the two handsomest coasters that leave Boston. Both are stanch, speedy, and strong, and admirably officered and manned. ISSUED IN THE RIALTO SERIES. THE ABBElONSTANTIN By ludovic halevy. With 30 beautiful liall'-lcmi' i'ngraviiif;-s from the orijjiual ihustra- tioiia by Mine. j!adeliuo Lem^.ire. Double Number, iu Paper Cover, $1.00; Half Morocco, $2.00. For Sale at all Booksellers' and News Stands. Thisexquisitely beautiful story has won ils way into the hearts of many iu'djile in many lands, and so long as unselfish love, modest nubility, and humble devotion to duty are regarded as admirable; so liMig as manly men and womanly women are regarded as lovable, — .so long will this story be admired and loved. To the perfect touch of the author, Mme. Lemaire has added the iuten^retalion of a sympathetic artist of fine taste and skill; and the book, as it now ajjpears, embellished with her beautiful designs, is one of the finest things in literature of this class. Send fur rcimiili'tc i-afaloLTue. RAND, McNALLY & CO. CHICAGO AND NEW YORK. ADVERTISEMENTS. American House, Boston, Mass., Berkshire Life Insurance Co., The, Pittsfield, Mass. Boston & Maine Raih'oad, Broadway Central Hotel, New York City, Fitchburg Railroad, The, Green's Hotel, Philadelphia, Pa., Hotel Earlington, New York City, Hotel Empire, New York City, Mansion House, Greenfield, Mass., . Maplewood, The, Pittsfield, Mass., . New American, The, Pittsfield, Mass., Pequoig House, Athol, Mass., . Riggs House, Washington, D. C, St. James Hotel, Richfield Springs, N. Y. Seaboard Air Line, .... United States Hotel, Saratoga Springs, N. Y. United States Hotel, Boston, Mass., Wabash Railroad, The, Wellington, North Adams, Mass., Wendell, The, Pittsfield, Mass., West Shore Railroad, Yarmouth Steamship Co., Boston, Mass. Back cover Opposite page 37 Page iii Opposite page 5 " 69 " 49 " 49 " 69 Page iv Opposite page 7 Page XX " viii Opposite page 69 " 49 Page vi Opposite page 9 ' 1l ill T vr^^?^'"'^ r { ^^i'h^^ GREEN'S HOTEL Corner Eighth and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. FOR LADIES and GENTLEMEN. EUROPEAN PLAN. Two Hundred and Fifty Rooms at SI. 00 and S1.50 Per Day. Finest Restaurant IN Philadelphia. Elevator, Electric Lights, Baths, and All Modern Conveniences. Eighth and Chestnut Street Trolley Cars pass the Hotel at the Rate of Three per Minute to all Parts of the City. This Hotel is centrally located, and in the very heart of the city, being but one square from the Postoffice, and easy of access to all Theaters, Railway Stations, Public Buildings, and Points of Interest. Headquarters for Commercial Travelers. MAHLON W. NEWTON, Proprietor. I=OUR • ROPUL-KR • BOOKS OPIE READ J i 17 lU ' rl The latest work bv this popular JUdQG hluTlCLQB writer. An entertaining, whole- some story, in Mr. Read's best style. Illustrated. Cloth, 121)10. $1.23. A Yankee from the West Just issued. The greatest success by this pop- ular author. Cloth binding only, i2mo, $1.00. An Arkansas Planter A story that is destined to be numbered among the great novels of America. Orietttal Library, paper bind- ing, 2j cents. Cloth, 12)110, $1.00. The Waters of Caney Fork One of the most interesting of his Southern romances. With a tone that is only produced by an author who is familiar with his subject. Oriental Library, paper bi)iding, 2^ cents. Cloth, i2))w, $1.00. Books sent postpaid itpon receipt of price. RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, CHICAGO AND NEW YORK. Rand. McNally & Co.'S SERIES OF This new series of American Guide Books gives, in volumes of "handy" size, the information generally desired by travelers seeking pleasure, health, or business. The books are uniform in size and general arrangement. Places or objects of particular importance or interest are noted in black-faced type, and those of less importance in italics. Care has been taken to present everything in the most candid and helpful light, saying little or nothing about that vi^hich is deemed worth little attention. Numerous illustrations from photographs, and colored maps supplement the text. PRICE OF EACH GUIDE. In Paper Binding, - - - - 25 Cents. In Flexible Cloth Binding, Rounded Corners, 50 Cents. The following are now ready and will be revised annually: NEW YORK CITY, including Brooklyn, Staten Island, and other suburbs. 2IO pages; 44 illustrations. Maps of New York City, 28x17; Central Park, 10x28, and New York and New Jersey Suburbs, 28x26. BOSTON AND ENVIRONS. 154 pages ; 24 illustrations. Maps of Boston, 28 X2i; Environs of Boston, 11 x 13J4, and Business Portion of Boston, 9'/^ xg. PHILADELPHIA AND ENVIRONS, including Atlantic City and Cape May. 126 pages; 32 illustrations. Maps of Philadelphia, 28x22, and One Hundred Miles Around Philadelphia, 28 x 21. WASHINGTON AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 161 pages; 40 illustrations. Map of Wa.shington, 21 x 28. CHICAGO. 215 pages; 46 illustrations. Map of Chicago, 31 x 33. HUDSON RIVER AND CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 249 pages; 18 illus- trations. Five large scale sectional maps showing both sides of the river from New York to Troy. SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Includes Florida, Georgia, the Carolinas, and the Gulf Coast; 246 pages ; illustrations. Map of Southeastern States, 24x28. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 260 pages; numerous illustrations. Maps of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Con- necticut, printed in colors, each 11x14 in size. COUNTRY AROUND NEW YORK. iSopages. Describing resorts and routes in Westchester County on Staten Island and Long Island, and in Northeastern and Seaside New Jersey. P'orty half-tone illustrations. Twelve route maps in black and white and map of region around New York, north to Hastings-on-the-Hudson; east to Garden City, Long Island; south to South Amboy, N. J.; west to Lake Hopatcong. Our publications are for sale by booksellers and newsdealers generally, or will be sent postpaid to any address on receipt of price. RAND, McNAlLY & CO., Publishers, 142 Fifth Ave., N. W. Cor. 19th St., NEW YORK. Rosemary and • Rue- BY AAiBER This posthumous volume of sketches and verse Avill be Avelcomed b}^ the host of admirers of that sterling woman and delightful writer, "Amber" (Mrs. Martha E. Holden). It is a book as tonic and bracino; as a sea breeze. ■■&> Ornamental cloth binding, designed by W. W. Denslow. Price. ..$1.00 Poster by the same artist on application. Sent to any address, postage prepaid, on receipt of price by the publishers. RAND, McNALLY & CO. CHICAGO and NEW YORK Maps and Guides TO All of the Principal Cities AND EVERY Country in the World. Road Maps FOR Driving, Wheeling, or Walking. Globes, Map Racks, Spring Map Rollers, Wall and Pocket Maps, Historical Maps, Classical, Biblical, Historical, Anatomical, Astronomical, Physical, and General Atlases of all kinds kept in stock. Address Rand, McNally & Co., Ivlap Piiblishiers and. Engravers. 160 to 174 Adams Street, CHICAGO. 142 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK. The Picturesque and ONLY All-Rail Route running Through Dra^ving-Roonl Cars between New York, Philadelphia and Bloomville, BETWEEN Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Long Branch, NeAV York, and Kingston, to Saratoga and Lake George, DURING THE SUMMER SEASON THE FAVORITE ROUTE OF BUSINESS AND PLEASURE TRAVEL BETWEEN EAST, WEST, NORTHWEST, AND SOUTHWEST. THE FAST EXPRESS TRAINS over this line have elegant Palace and Sleeping Cars between New York, Boston, Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, to Hamil- ton, Toronto, Detroit, Cleveland, Chicago, and St. Louis, without change. For tickets, time tables, and full information apply to any Ticket Agent, WEST SHORE RAILROAD, or address C. E. LAMBERT, General Passenger Agent, Room 440 Grand Central Station. New York. i^l^ UNITED STATES HOTEL BOSTON. One Block from the New Southern Lnion Station, RECENTLY ENLARGED AND .GREATLY IMPROVED. Pleasure parties, ladies, and families visiting Boston will lind the T'nited States Hotel combining all the eimvenlenees and snbstantial comforts of a pleasant Home, free alike from extravagant snow or still more extravagant charges. Only two minutes from the great ssoutliern Terminal. r- * i >L it ^ tj- -, '^ !i 1^1 \i M Id* I. - lffh Sleeping Cars and Free Reclining Chair Cars NEW YORK and BOSTON TO DETROIT, CHICAGO, and ST. LOUIS. The famous Continental Limited leaves New York, via West Shore K. R., daily, i.oop. m,, leaves Bo.ston, via FitchburgR. R., daily, ii.oo a. m., arrives Detroit 7.00 a. m., Chicago 2.40 p. m., St. Louis 6.52 p. m., next day, and Kansas City the following morning 7.00 o'clock. PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR AND FREE RECLINING CHAIR CARS NEW YORK TO DETROIT AND CHICAGO. Leave New York, via N. Y., O. & W. R. R., daily, 6.00 p. m., arrive Detroit 2.10 p. m., Chicago 9.30 p. m. 36 HOURS, NEW YORK TO KANSAS CITY Leave New York, via D., L. & W. R. R., daily, 10.00 a. m., arrive Detroit 2.30 a. m. Chicago 10.55 ^- ni-i St. Louis 2.00 p. m., Kansas City 9.30 p. m., next day. Four Solid Vestibule Trains, daily. Palace Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars, Dining Cars. FROIVI BUFFALO, VIA NIAGARA FALLS. Leave Arrive BUFFALO NIAtTARA FALLS SUSIMCNSION BRIDGE.. DKTKCJIT CHICAGO ST. LOUIS HANNIBAL... QUINCY KEOKUK KANSAS CITY OMAHA 7 15A,M S.08" 8.25A,M 2 10P,M 9..30P,M 7.1.'3A.M 9.55" 10. tO" 11 05A,M 5.45P,M 2 OOP.M 2.53" 3 15" lO.OORM 7. ISAM 8 30RM 9.2.iRM 2.30A,M 10.55A,M 2.00P.M 4 00" 4.55" 9.30P,M 12.15AJ« 1.08" 1.15" 7 00AM 2.40P.M 6.52" 9 10" 10.00" 11 30P,M 7.00AM 8.35AM Direct connections made with eastern lines. Stop-off privilege at Niagara Falls. J. RAMSEY, JR , VICE-PRES'T i GEN- L MGR. C. S. CRANE, GEN* L PASS R i TICKET AGT., ST. LOUIS, MO. H. B. McCLELLAN, General Eastern Agent, 387 Broadway, NEW YORK. viii ENOCH THE PHILISTINE A Traditional Romance by LeRoy Hooker. Striking Egyptian Cover Design. i2mo, cloth, f 1.25. BONME IMACKIRBY By Laura Dayton Fessen- DEN, author of "A Colonial Dame." i6mo, cloth, 75 cents. The story of an international marriage. A DAUGHTER OF CUBA By Helen M. Bowen. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. PHOEBE TILSON By Mrs. Frank Pope Hum- phrey. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. ROMOLA By George Eliot. A carefully revised edition with 56 full page illustrations in mono- gravure. Large type, new plates, two volumes, exquis- itely bound in cloth, 8vo, boxed, $3.00. HY INVISIBLE PARTNER By THO^LVs S. Denison. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. WIARGARET WYNNE By Adeline Sergeant. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. A HISTORIC REMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVELS ALONG THE BOSPHORUS RICH IN ALL THAT MAKES PLEASANT READING Susan E. Wallace (Mrs. Lew Wallace), author of " Land of the Pueblos," etc. Illustrated. i2mo, cloth, $1.50. THE FIFTH OF NOVEMBER By F. Kimball Scribner and Charles S. Bentley. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. ARMAGEDDON By Stanley Waterloo, author of "Story of Ab," etc. A prophetic romance. i2mo, cloth, $1.00. AT THE BLUE BELL INN By J. S. Fletcher, author of ' ' When Charles L Was King " " In the Days of Drake," etc. In exquisite old style Eng- lish. i6mo, cloth, 75 cents. WOMAN AND THE SHADOW By Arabella Kenealy. i2mo, cloth, 1 1. 00. A MAID OF THE FRONTIER By Henry Spofford Can- field. i6mo, cloth, 75 cents. ALL ABOUT THE BABY With appendix scientifically treating on the Limitation of Offspring and Either Sex at Will. By Robert N. Tooker, M. D., author of " Children's Diseases," etc. Illustrated. 8vo, cloth, $1.50. \ CRUISE UNDER THE CRESCENT By Charles Warren Stoddard. Profusely illustrated by Denslow. i2mo, cloth, $1.50. Send for complete catalogue and full lists of our Three Famous Libraries of Beautiful i2mos. THE AMERICAN LIBRARY, THE TWENTIETH CENTURY IIMOS, THE ALPHA LIBRARY. Rand McNally & Co., CHICAGO. NEW YORK. MARAH ELLIS RYAN'S WORKS. THE BONDWOMAN. The new volume by Mrs. Ryan is a great ar.d exceedingly pleasant surprise. —Pittsbur;/ Leader. One of tiie vivid and striking books of the yea,r.— Chicago Chronicle. An absorbing story. — Boston Globe. A FLOWER OF FRANCE. A Story of Old Louisiana. The story is well told. — Herald, New York. A real ri)riiance— jnst the kind of nmianre one delights in. — Times, Bo.ston. The intcrt'st lidlds tl]<- rt-adfruntil tlu' clcising puge. -Inter Ocean, Cliicaf/o. Told witli K''eat fasciiiatinn ;uid bi'ightiit'ss. * * * The general impression delightful. * * * Many tlirilling scenes. — Herald, Chicago. A PAGAN OF THE ALLEGHANIES. A genuine art work. — Chicago Tribune. REV. DAVID SWING says: — " A Pagan of the Alleghanies " is one of her best works; but all she writes is high and pure. Her words are all true to nature, and, with her. nature is a great theme. ROBER'f (i. IN(iEP>S( )LTj says: — Your description of .scenery and seasons — of the capture of tlic luduiitains by spring — of tree and fern, of laurel, cloud and mist, and the unriils of tlie forest, are true, poetic, and beautiful. To say thi^ least, the pauan saw .'nid aiii>reciated many of the difficulti"s and contradict inns tliat ^;i-ci\v nut df and l)i-long t(i creeds. He saw ho u' hard it is to harmonize what we sec and know witli tlie idea that over all is infinite power and goodness * * * the divine spark called Genius is in your brain. SQUAW ELOUISE. Vigorous, natural, entertaining. — Bo-nton Times. A notable performance. — Chicar/O Tritiune. A very strong story, indeed. — Chicago Times. TOLD IN THE HILLS. A book that is more than clever. It is healthy, brave, and inspiring. —5'^ Loiii.^ I'cst-DisjKitch. The character of Stuart is one of the finest which has been drawn by an American woman in many a day, and it is depicteil with an appreciation hardly to be expected even from a man.— Boston IIcr NORTH, AND SOUTHWEST Short Line, Fast Time, Low Rates The most direct route with latest improved service and fast trains between BOSTON AND MONTREAL and all Canadian points. For tickets and further information call upon your nearest ticket agent or address A.S.CRANE, C.M.BURT, Gen. Traffic Manager. Gen. Passenger Agt. GOING TO BOSTON TRY THE AMERICAN HOUSI Hanover St., near Scollay Square Station of Subway. Situated in the business portion of the city, the house is convenient to the hi torical places of interest, shopping district, amusements, steamboat lines, etc. Euro1)ean Plan, $1 00 per day and upwards. Table d'Hote Dinner, 50 centi Special Breakfast, 40 cents. A. C. JONES, MANAGER. C. A. JONES, PROPRIETOR