{"1": {"fulltext": "C. W, OLSVEF*\\nS B\\n05", "height": "3581", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "m\\nLIBRARY OF CONGRESS.\\nChap.-2_i. Copyright No.\\nML.QS\\nUNITED STATES OF AMERICA.", "height": "3441", "width": "2102", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "11\\nw", "height": "3441", "width": "2102", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3441", "width": "2102", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "PLANT CULTURE.", "height": "3441", "width": "2102", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "PLANT CULTURE\\nA WORKING HAND-BOOK OF EVERY\\nDAY PRACTICE FOR\\nALL WHO GROW FLOWERING AND\\nORNAMENTAL PLANTS\\nIN THE GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE\\nBY\\nGEORGE W. OLIVER\\nPropagator to the U. S. Botanic Garden, Washington, D. C, and\\nlate of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh\\nNEW YORK\\nA. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO., LTD.\\n1900", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "23003\\nlibrary of Cor\\nj Tv/o Cores Received\\nI JUL 21 1900 I\\nCopyright entry\\nSECOND COPY,.\\nDelivered fl r\\nORDER WVISKHt,\\nU1L-23J900\\n66203\\nCopyright\\nEntered According to Act of Congress in the\\nYear 1900 by\\nA. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, LTD.\\nNew York\\nD\\nAll Rights Reserved.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "PREFACE\\nIn nearly all of the recent works of this nature, appearing\\nin America, the subjects dealt with have been confined, more\\nor less, to those plants that can be and are cultivated by\\ncommercial florists for profit, or by those who own conserva-\\ntories. And while the present book includes all this class of in-\\nformation it has a far wider scope treating, as it does, on the care\\nand management of a diversity of plants not touched upon by\\nother writers, all equally necessary in the adornment of our\\ngardens and homes and\u00e2\u0080\u009efor this purpose, as beautiful and inter-\\nesting as those that generally receive the greatest attention from\\nauthors of most horticultural works. Divested of superfluous\\nverbiage, and shorn of perplexing technicalities which tend to\\nconfuse, the cultural directions here given can be easily and\\nsuccessfully followed, the results contributing to the perfect\\nenjoyment of the purest of human pleasures/ by some, and\\naffording to others a lucrative occupation.\\nWhat I have given here are teachings gleaned and sifted\\nfrom the experience of many years work as a gardener and\\nflorist. The methods described are such as have been success-\\nfully practiced by me and can be safely relied on as up-to-date\\nand thoroughly applicable to American conditions and require-\\nments.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "While the notes have been made short, they will, never-\\ntheless, in most cases, cover the essential points in the\\nmethods of raising and caring for the plants named, and be\\nunderstood by the average reader as easily as if they had\\nbeen dealt with in longer articles. Hitherto, the information\\navailable on the subjects treated upon has, for the most part,\\nbeen widely scattered in numerous magazines and books,\\nmany of which are expensive; and it is often found necessary\\nto search through a mass of technical details in order to find\\nthe required information. It is to be hoped that the present\\nvolume will, in great measure, reduce the difficulties referred\\nto, and render the art of plant cultivation profitable and enjoy-\\nable to the many whose tastes are horticultural.\\nGeorge W. Oliver.\\nWashington, July, 1900.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nPage\\nStove and Greenhouse Plants 9\\nBedding Plants 50\\nVase and Basket Plants 65\\nVines, Hardy and Tender 67\\nBulbous Plants 79\\nOrnamental Grasses 92\\nWater Plants Aquatics 96\\nFerns and Lycopods 101\\nHardy Perennial Plants in\\nHardy Shrubs 147\\nGeneral Directions 176\\nPropagation 176\\nSeeds 176\\nGrafting 178-180\\nBudding 180\\nLayering 181\\nHybridization 182\\nPotting Plants 182\\nSoil 185\\nMulching 185\\nWatering 186", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "Stove and Greenhouse Plants.\\nABUTILON\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Several of the varieties having ornamental foliage, such\\nas A. Darwini tesselatum, A. Sellonianum marmoratum, A. vexillarium\\nand Eclipse, are good bedding plants. The last two are useful for vases\\nand boxes. All of them have the leaves blotched witn yellow. Souvenir\\nde Bonn and Savitzii are variegated with white. Cuttings are rooted in\\nthe Fall, or may betaken in early Spring from lifted and cut back plants.\\nThe varieties grown for their flowers are numerous; the colors are pink,\\nred, white and yellow. They are everblooming.\\nACACIA Seedlings of Acacias are not to be recommended for small\\nflowering plants, on account of their lanky growth. Not only are plants\\nfrom cuttings most floriferous, but they are easier trained to any desired\\nshape. They should be taken from the half-ripened shoots during the\\nmonth of June. A peatty soil mixed with half sand should be used, as\\nthe roots will take nourishment from it immediately they are formed.\\nMake the cuttings with a sharp knife and take off the leaves from the\\npart which is to go in the soil with a small pair of sharp scissors. The\\npots for rooting the cuttings in should be prepared carefully\u00e2\u0080\u0094 rough\\ncrocks in the bottom and finer above, until they are filled to within two\\ninches of the rim. The remaining space should be filled with finely sifted\\npeat and sand in equal parts topped off with pure sand. Dibble in the\\ncuttings to the depth of about an inch and not too crowded. They\\nmust be kept close during the operation of rooting, and as cool as\\npossible. The pots, which may be plunged in sand, should be covered\\nwith a movable glass structure. A good plan is to have two sets of\\nthose hand-light or bell-glasses, and instead of wiping the moisture\\nfrom them daily, remove the wet ones and slip over them those which\\nare dry. After the first watering the cuttings will take but little more\\nduring the process of rooting; when they do require it the foliage should\\nbe allowed to dry before putting back the covers. Acacia Biceana is\\nperhaps the finest greenhouse species for very large plants. A. pubes-\\ncens, A. Drummondi and A. paradoxa are all good greenhouse species,\\nflowering well on moderate-sized specimens. Sandy loam, to which a\\ngoodly quantity of leaf soil or peat is added, will suit them. Firm pot-\\nting and good drainage are necessary. Plunge the plants outside dur-\\ning Summer, and give liberal supplies of water when the plants are well\\nestablished.\\nACALYPHA HISPIDA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Large plants in pots are speedily produced by\\nusing a goodly quantity of bone meal in the soil. Grow in a high tem-\\nperature. If tall plants are wanted, keep nipping out the flower spikes\\nas they appear in the axils of the leaves. When the plant reaches the\\ndesired height nip out the ends of the shoots; this will cause branching.\\nAQAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The African blue Lily is a desirable\\nplant for cool greenhouses, and ornamental either in or out of bloom.\\nIn general appearance it resembles the Imantophyllum, but the flowers", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "10 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nare bright blue, a great number of them being produced in an umbel\\nsupported by a long, stout stalk. The Agapanthus is one of those\\nplants which have the appearance of doing well with cramped root\\nroom, so there is a temptation when potting other things to leave the\\nplants for another year; but this practice is carried on at the expense of\\nthe m agnificent heads of flowers, which get smaller and smaller until a\\nseason goes by without any being produced. This species sometimes\\nstands the Winters at Washington, D. C, in sheltered positions. There\\nare several varieties the white, double-flowered and the variety with\\nvariegated leaves being the most conspicuous.\\nAGATH/EA CCELESTIS^A cOol greenhouse, low-growing shrub with\\nblue, daisy-like flowers produced principally in Winter. Cuttings should\\nbe taken from the soft wood in Fall and Spring. It will stand full sun\\nat all seasons.\\nAGAVE AHERICANA and its variegated forms, together with several\\nother more or less ornamental species, are much cultivated in pots and\\ntubs. They grow best in rather poor but well-drained soil, and are\\nincreased by seeds and offsets. The flowering period of adult specimens\\nis hastened by keeping them in a pot-bound state. On the other hand,\\ngrowth of foliage is accelerated by giving abundant root room.\\nALLAHANDAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Among the select flowering plants for temporary or\\npermanent use in tubs we must include the large flowering allamandas\\nknown as Cathartica, Schottii and grandiflora. They will thrive in\\nshade or sun; where a little shade is available the flowers naturally last\\nlonger. The flowers are large, almost the size of the moonflower, but\\nmore lasting, the shoots ramble over the sides of the tubs. Procure\\nsome young plants in the beginning of May and a little later plant in\\nthe open to make growth for cuttings. After cutting them back for\\npropagation lift and pot, partly resting them for the Winter. For im-\\nmediate effect after planting out start early in the Spring; one plant to\\na tub, among other things, is sufficient. The best upright growing\\nspecies is named Williamsii, a grand plant either for boxes, tubs or for\\nbedding out; it is easily propagated in the Fall from ripe cuttings.\\nThe larger flowered kinds, when represented by large plants, are very\\ndesirable for isolating on a lawn. A good, rich, light soil is necessary,\\nand if a tub is used for the plant put enough drainage in the bottom so\\nthat the plant when knocked out of the pot will rest on the drainage.\\nEarn the soil firmly around the ball, shorten back the strong growths\\nand stand the plants in a partly shaded spot, syringing frequently. In\\na few weeks time, the kinds grown under the names Wardleana, Hen-\\ndersoni and Schottii, will give an abundant display of their wide,\\ntrumpet-shaped, yellow flowers. When trained near the roof of a warm\\ngreenhouse they may be had in bloom the greater part of the Winter\\nmonths. In fact, they can be so managed as to have them bloom at\\nany time of the year, by first resting the plants, pruning back and\\nencouraging the root growth. Cuttings of the ripe wood will root in a\\nwarm propagating house at any season.\\nALOCASIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although among the most ornamental of stove plants,\\nnone of them can be put to much use outside of these structures. Out", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 11\\nof a large number of species and forms, A. metallica, A. Sedenii, A. Thi-\\nbautiana, A. Sanderiana and A. macrorhiza variegata are well known.\\nThe two last named are increased by offsets; the others, by cutting up\\nthe succulent stems of old plants. Put the pieces in damp moss, in a\\npropagating frame, with a temperature of 80 degrees. After sprouting\\nput them in a potting mixture similar to that given for nepenthes. The\\nplants must be shaded from the .sun at all times, and ;grown in a mini-\\nmum temperature of 60 degrees.\\nALOYSIA CITRIODORA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The sweet-scented verbena, grows very\\nstrongly when planted out, finishing up the season by covering itself\\nwith myriads of small, insignificant flowers. It is a very popular plant,\\non account of its sweet smelling leaves, being almost identical in this\\nrespect with those of the lemon grass aDd Eucalyptus citriodora. Keep\\nsome old plants over Winter; start them early in Spring and root the\\ngrowths, as soon as they get enough length to them, in warm sand bed.\\nAHARYLLIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 See Bulbous Plants.\\nAN AN AS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Ananas Porteana is hardly worth growing for its variega-\\ntion when we have the splendid variegated forms of the common pine-\\napple A. sativa. In a warm, sheltered place all of the kinds do well\\nout-of-doors in Summer, where they put on exquisite colorings. If\\ngrown large enough the plants will fruit in the same way as the green-\\nleaved forms. In fact, it is best to allow them to fruit, as subsequently\\nthey form suckers the more readily. These suckers may be rooted in\\nsand, not too moist, but very warm. After being potted off and taken\\nwith the soil a little they will stand full sunlight without injury.\\nANTHERICUM VARIEGATUM is a good all-round plant for vases, bed-\\nding, or potted for window decoration, although for the last-named\\npurpose it is surpassed by the variety known as A. media picta. If the\\nplants which were lifted in the Fall are allowed to bloom, and the\\nflower stalks remain on the plants afterward, a good opportunity to\\nincrease the stock of plants presents itself during February. All along\\nthe flowering stems will be found a crop of small rosettes of leaves\\nwhich, if cut off, stems and all, and laid on the sand in the shaded part\\nof a warm house, will send out roots in a short time. Large clumps of\\nA. variegatum, which have been hibernating under benches, should be\\nbroken up about the end of January and potted in 3 and 4-inch pots.\\nThey may be placed under benches where the light will strike them for\\nat least a portion of the day.\\nANTHURIUri\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The species of this genus are grown either for foliage\\nor flower. None of them has handsome foliage and showy flowers com-\\nbined in the same plant. A crystallinum, A. Veitchii and A. Warocque-\\nanum are very beautiful foliage plants, but the flowers are inconspicu-\\nous. On the other hand A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous\\nhybrid progeny, together with A. Scherzerianum and varieties, have\\nrather ordinary -looking leaves; but in each case the inflorescence is ex-\\nceedingly attractive. The showy part of the inflorescence is what is\\ntermed the spathe, answering the same purpose as calyx and corolla in\\nother flowers. Their cultural needs are: temperature, 65 to 85 degrees;", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "12 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nshade at all times, lightest in Winter. The potting mixture should be\\nrough, fibry peat, sphagnum, decayed cow manure and sand, except for\\nA. Scherzerianum, which needs less sphagnum and more peat. Water\\nshould be copiously supplied in the growing season. Toward the end of\\nJanuary, with increasing sun heat, these plants will soon commence\\nactive growth for the season. Before this takes place they should be\\nlooked over for the purpose of repotting or for rooting any tall or strag-\\ngling growths which have grown away from the sphagnum in the pot.\\nIn this condition the roots, which are formed at the bases of the lea\\nstems, shrivel up for want of moisture and the plant becomes shy in\\nblooming. Cut off the shoots that are in this condition and put in a\\nmixture of sphagnum and sand in a warm part of tfce propagating\\nbench; keep moist and roots will form in abundance in about three\\nweeks, when they should be potted up in the usual way. Old plants\\nshould have the lower part of the stem and roots removed and sunk\\nlower in the pot, using a mixture of fibrous peat, sphagnum, well decom-\\nposed cow manure, charcoal and sand. This treatment applies only to\\nsuch kinds as A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous hybrid\\nprogeny, all of which produce very showy flowers which may be used to\\nadvantage associated with those of orchids. Their cultivation is\\nexceedingly simple where sufficient heat is at command, a minimum tem-\\nperature of 65 degrees F. being necessary.\\nAPONOGETON DISTACH YON\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is not a greenhouse plant, but,\\nwhere opportunities offer, it certainly should be grown as such. It is\\nknown as the Cape Pond Weed. The flowers, arranged much in the same\\nway as those of the Ouvirandra, have large, showy white bracts; very\\nsweet smelling. In its native haunts the seeds germinate on the surface\\nof the water, forming very small tubers which, when the leaves decay,\\nsink to the bottom of the pond and become established there.\\nARALIA Aralia Veitchii and A. gracillima are readily rooted if the\\ncuttings are taken at the proper time; that is, when young shoots\\ndevelop on a cut-back plant, and they are removed with a heel and kept\\nin a close, warm propagating frame. But this is a slower method than\\ngrafting if the necessary stocks are at hand. A. Guilfoylei, or any of the\\nwoody species of Panax, make good enough stock on which to work\\nthem. Select long, wiry wood for cions\u00e2\u0080\u0094 that which is not too thick\\nand well ripened. In the cions a piece of the stem to each leaf is all that\\nis necessary. Cut the stock clear across and down to as near the soil as\\npossible; make an incision in it downward for three-quarters of an inch.\\nMake the wood of the cion wedge-shaped to fit the incision, and tie to\\nkeep in position till united, during which process they should be kept in\\na rather warm, humid atmosphere\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a moderately warm propagating\\nframe will answer. The leaves of the cions, if too large, should be short-\\nened back a little. March is the best month in which to perform the\\noperation.\\nAralia Chabrierii, so called, strikes so readily from cuttings put in a\\ncool house that there is no necessity for grafting them.\\nAralia (Fatsia) japonica is conceded to be one of the best plants for\\ndecorative purposes, but like several other good things in this line it is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 13\\nnot got up in any very great quantity, possibly from methods of propa-\\ngation not being evident. It is rather backward in producing seeds in\\nthis country, although moderately large plants flower freely enough.\\nFrom cuttings, by topping old plants, it is rather slow. It is said to\\nvegetate from pieces of the roots. I have not tried this method. Seeds\\nare obtainable from some of the European firms at reasonable prices.\\nThese should be got hold of during March or April and sown then, as\\nthey do not retain their vitality for any great length of time. Firm the\\nsoil in the seed pans before sowing, and cover with a mixture of loam\\nand sand; place in a temperature suitable for warm greenhouse plants,\\nshaded from the sun. The seedlings, as soon as large enough to handle,\\nshould be potted off singly into 2-inch pots, and when in 4-inch pots\\nthey should be plunged outside during the Summer, in a frame covered\\nwith slats, or with sash-tilted top and bottom alternately. When large\\nenough for a shift they should get it, as they suffer from being root-\\nbound. Old plants will stand considerable frost, but the young plants\\nare always more tender and should on the approach of cool weather be\\ngiven protection.\\nA. J. variegata is a highly ornamental form.\\nARAUCARIAS In the propagation of the Araucaria a good plan is\\nto procure seed and sow at the end of the year. The seedlings are, of\\ncourse, not well-furnished at the base, but they make good stock plants\\nand cheaper ones than can be procured otherwise. The finely ripened\\ntops of the seedlings are so easy to root that, with ordinary care, it is\\nalmost impossible to lose a cutting Moreover, the cut-back plants will\\nimmediately begin to throw up good leaders, which in turn are used for\\ncuttings. In taking cuttings from plants which have attained consider-\\nable size, the lateral branches may be rooted along with the tops\u00e2\u0080\u0094 not\\nfor making specimen plants, because this is impossible, but for the pur-\\npose of providing material for cuttings; for, when cut back, they will\\nthrow up [leaders, which are as good as the best. The soil for propa-\\ngating should be sandy, and pressed firmly about the base of the cut-\\ntings, which should be kept in a frame shaded from sunlight, with\\nenough moisture in the atmosphere to keep them from wilting. Keep\\nthe temperature a little higher after the cuttings have callused. Most\\nof the plants used in this country (principally- A. excelsa) are imported\\nfrom Europe. This Araucaria is a native of Norfolk Island and is\\nknown as the Norfolk Island Pine. The best place for the plants in\\nSummer is under a structure covered with slats, in which similarly con-\\nstituted plants may pass the hot months.\\nARDISIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The red-berried ardisia, A. crenulata, continues to be one\\nof the most attractive Christmas plants. It can be recommended as a\\nfirst-class window subject, owing to its apparent indifference to a little\\ncold or occasional neglect in the way of watering. Seeds may be sown\\nduring the latter part of January. Plants over one year old are never\\nwithout a crop of seed at any season, if they are in good health; and\\nfrequently we see them with two crops at one time along with the\\nflowers, which in a short period produce the third crop of berries. The\\nold fruits have usually a grimy appearance from hanging so long on the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "14 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nbush. When there is any choice in the matter the oldest berries should\\nbe taken for sowing, as they will be the first to fall from the plant.\\nWash the pulp from around the seed and sow immediately, affording a\\nquarter of an inch of soil above the seeds, firming well and giving the\\npots or boxes a position in a cool house. Keep the soil moderately\\ndamp, with abundance of air during mild weather. Conditions such as\\nthese will give the seed ample time to germinate and make plants in 4-\\ninch pots by the following Fall. Cuttings root freely in sand, but do not\\nmake as symmetrical plants as seedlings. When the old plants get leggy\\nthe tops are easily rooted by making an incision in the stems and tying\\nmoss around them. These tops make very fine dwarf specimens.\\nASPARAGUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 As pot plants there are only three species of any value;\\nthese are A. plumosus nanus, A. tenuissimus and A. Sprengeri.\\nA. plumosus is a very distinct plant from A. plumosus nanus and\\nprobably is a distinct species. (See Vines).\\nA. plumosus nanus makes a profusion of short growths from the\\nbase, and may be kept in this condition by pot culture and pinching\\nshoots that show a tendency to run up; for it will grow 30 feet high\\nunder proper conditions. Dividing starved plants is the readiest\\nmethod of increasing stock. Wash out the roots and place the divisions\\nin moderately wet sand, to make a few roots before potting.\\nA. tenuissimus should be rooted from cuttings. Unlike the other\\nkinds it is easy to manage in this respect.\\nA. Sprengeri does best where its branches are allowed to hang down\\ninstead of being planted in a bed like the better known A. plumosus\\nnanus. The ideal method is to have the plants in large wire baskets\\nsuspended from the roof of a house; and where the plants underneath\\ndon t suffer from drip or shade this system will work all right. Where\\na large supply of this green is wanted the north wall of a house may be\\nused economically by erecting trough-like receptacles running the entire\\nlength of the house. The top one may be as near the glass as possible,\\nthe next in front 6 or 8 inches lower down, and so on, giving enough\\nroom to prevent crowding of the branches. Old plants may be divided\\nfor planting out, and k for small specimens in pots, which are useful in\\nassociating with ferns. Seedlings are easily raised. The plants ripen\\nseed in midwinter. If cleaned and sown as soon as ripe the seeds\\ngerminate quickly.\\nASPIDISTRA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The usual way to increase the stock of these very valu-\\nable decorative plants is to divide up large specimens into small pieces,\\npotting and keeping close until they make fresh roots. A method requir-\\ning a little more work, certainly, but giving salable plants in a shorter\\nperiod, and more of them, as every small piece will grow, is to shake the\\nold plants out, disentangle the rhizomes as carefully as possible, and\\nwash clean, saving every little piece that is likely to grow. Cut the rhi-\\nzomes into small pieces, with roots attached, and put in the sand bed\\nto make fresh roots; subsequently put in small pots and keep close for\\na few days. A. elatior and A. elatior variegata are the ones most com-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 15\\nmonly grown. It is said that A. lurida is hardy as far North as Phila-\\ndelphia.\\nASPLENIUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 See Ferns.\\nAZALEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Indian Azaleas used so extensively for Winter and Spring\\nflowering are European grown. They arrive in the Fall in wonderfully\\ngood condition, as a rule.\\nThe Newly Imported Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These should not be potted in the first\\nkind of soil that comes to hand; rather choose that which is as far as\\npossible like the material in which they have been grown. Firm potting\\nis very very important. The rootlets are exceedingly fine and they make\\nbut little progress in loose soil when in pots. Examine the roots care-\\nfully before potting, and if the balls are at all dry, stand them in a tub of\\nwater until wet through; allow to drain, then pot. This treatment\\nshould be given to all plants of the same family, such as Andromedas,\\nKalmias, Ericas, Epacris and Rhododendrons, as they all have roots of\\nthe same nature. For the first week or two after potting put the plants\\nin a deep frame with the sash kept on and for those which are meant\\nfor later flowering this frame, if frost can be kept out of it, will be the\\nproper place to Winter the plants.\\nRemoving Side Growths Azalea plants which for forcing purposes are\\nin a comparatively high temperature, and otherwise under conditions\\nwith which they are unaccustomed, will push out growths at the bases\\nof the flower buds; especially is this the case with plants the roots of\\nw T hich are in perfect order. This tendency is shown less earlier in the\\nseason than later on, but whenever it does occur, the sooner the growths\\nare removed the better are the chances for the perfect development of\\nthe flowers.\\nTreatment During Summer Azalea plants left unsold in Spring will\\nincrease in value if they are properly handled during the Summer\\nmonths. It pays to grow on imported Azaleas, from small plants into\\nbig ones, because, when lifted in the Fall, they are equally as good as, if\\nnot better than, imported plants for general use, and much better for\\nforcing. About the beginning of May stand the plants which have been\\nin the greenhouse in a cold frame or a sheltered spot outside, to gradu-\\nally harden them off previous to putting them in the ground, so that\\nwhen that operation is performed they will not get chilled at the roots.\\nIn a few days prepare a bed for them; dig a trench of sufficient size for\\nthe balls, keeping the sizes together. Scatter a couple of inches of leaf\\nmould and sand in the trench; knock the plants out of their pots, if\\nnecessary reduce the balls a little; place in the trench, fill in with a mix-\\nture of leaf soil, sand and loam, ramming it firm around them. Some\\nlath slats on very hot days, pinchings when necessary and frequent\\nwaterings with the hose, will be all that is required for the next five\\nmonths. At the expiration of that time they will have ripened their\\ngrowth for the season, when they may be lifted and the balls reduced in\\nsize so as to go comfortably into the proper-sized pots.\\nBEGONIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This genus is a deservedly popular one, as it possesses\\nnumerous species and varieties, useful either as greenhouse, window or", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "16 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nbedding plants. Nearly all of them will grow in a wide range of soils.\\nTwo parts loam and a third of equal parts decayed cow manure and\\nsand will be found to answer the requirements of most of them.\\nSowing Seed The seeds of all Begonias are very minute and should\\nbe sown on finely sifted and previously watered soil, without covering,\\nexcepting perhaps a very fine dusting of silver sand. The pan may be\\ncovered with glass until germination takes place.\\nThe tuberous rooted section behave grandly in some parts of the\\ncountry when planted out. In the warmer localities they do not thrive.\\nThe tubers are Wintered much in the same way as those of Caladiums or\\nGloxinias. Young plants are raised from seed in Spring, but they bloom\\nlate:\\nWinter Bloomers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Begonia Gloire de Sceaux is a hybrid between B.\\nsubpeltata and B. socotrana, the latter being one of the parents of the\\nwonderfully floriferous Gloire de Lorraine. Gloire de Sceaux is a trifle\\nmiffy and that is probably the reason we see less of it grown than we\\ndid a few years ago. Flowering wood is not the best for cuttings.\\nYoung plants are best started from the leaves. When well flowered it is\\na very effective plant for decorations, owing to the bronzy color of the\\nfoliage and bright pink flowers. Paul Bruant is one of the best flower-\\ning of the genus, and one which does well in a house window; the foliage\\nslightly resembles that of B. Gilsonii, another good Winter bloomer,\\nwith double flowers, said to have been raised before the War of the Ke-\\nbellion by a colored man named Gilson. Its history would be interest-\\ning, seeing that it is a shrubby kind with the flowers double. President\\nCarnot, after having grown this hybrid since it was sent out a few years\\nago, I have come to the conclusion that the best way to manage it, in\\nthe absence of a place in the greenhouse, where it can be planted out, is\\nto put it out in the open lot in the Summer, where it is encouraged to\\nmake all the growth possible; lift with a good ball, pot carefully, when\\nit will flower in midwinter most profusely. The large clusters of female\\nflowers are one of the most attractive features in the greenhouse in mid-\\nwinter. Two other good Winter blooming species for house culture are\\nB. manicata aurea and B. acuminata; the former has light pink flowers\\nand yellow spotted leaves; the latter small, crisp-looking foliage and\\npure white flowers.\\nBegonia Corallina To grow this species from seed is rather unsatis-\\nfactory; it takes the best part of a year to bloom and then, as a rule,\\nmany of the seedlings are inferior to the forms already in cultivation,\\nthe most noticeable point being their lack of free-blooming qualities.\\nCuttings of this, the queen of shrubby Begonias, either for bedding pur-\\nposes or pot plants, should always be preferred, as they begin to flower\\nshortly after being potted off. It is a species which stands very rich\\nsoil. Other good shrubby kinds are B. nitida and B. nitida alba, B.\\nincarnata, B. fuchsioides, B. Saundersii and B. semperflorens gigantea\\nBegonia Gloire de Lorraine was raised about nine years ago. It is a\\nhybrid between B. socotrana (a species discovered in the Island of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 17\\nSocotra, by Professor Baley Balfour) and the old B. Dregei. As a Win-\\nter bloomer it is perhaps the finest of all recent hybrids. The first\\ngrowths made by the rooted cuttings all go to flowers, afterward some\\ngrowths more or less vigorous are made from the base. These make\\nexcellent material for cuttings. Young plants are also raised from\\nmature leaves. The shoots should be allowed to be well above the sand\\nbefore being potted. The floriferousness of this Begonia may be partly\\naccounted for by the fact of its being almost without female flowers,\\nand also by the stamens producing little or no pollen. Among a large\\nnumber of plants I have seen only a very few female flowers, and these\\nare, so far as noticed, only produced at the very ends of the flowering\\nstems. The pollen is produced exceedingly sparingly, many of the\\nflowers having none at all.\\nRex Begonias, Leaf Cuttings of\u00e2\u0080\u0094 After the rush of propagating the\\nsoft wooded plants in the Fall the cuttings of the Bex Begonias may\\nbe put in the sand bed. Select the mature leaves of those plants which\\nare growing in a rather cool house. The pieces for cuttings will answer\\nall right if they be cut in a triangular shape, three inches each way.\\nThe part to be inserted in the sand should end with one of the thick ribs\\nor veins which are prominent on the undersides of the leaves. From a\\nmedium-sized leaf eight or ten cuttings can be got. Put them in the\\nsand to the depth of about an inch and maintain a moderately humid\\natmosphere to prevent wilting. Place in thumb pots as soon as the\\nleaves show above the sand. The old leaves are sometimes used entire,\\nfirst by giving a few cuts across the principal ribs, then placing them\\nflat on damp sand or moss. The other method is to be preferred, because\\nmore plants can be got from one leaf. It is equally as quick, and takes\\nup much less room on the propagating bench. So far as color is con-\\ncerned few of the newer sorts are improvements over the better known\\nkinds, such as Philadelphus, Inimitable, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs.\\nBivers and Marshalli.\\nBOUGAINVILLEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are at least five kinds in cultivation. B.\\nspectabilis is as free blooming as any, but only on large specimens. It\\nis very useful for training along the roof in the same way as B. glabra.\\nA season of rest, followed by severe pruning, usually induces an abun-\\ndant flowering growth. B. glabra Sanderiana differs from the tpye\\nin being smaller in the flower and more floriferous in a small state.\\nSmall specimens from cuttings, rooted in the beginning of the year, will\\nbloom the following Winter; but larger plants take a couple of years to\\ndevelop. They should be allowed to make their growth out-of-doors,\\neither in the small or large state. There is not much to be gained by\\nplanting out, as they make few roots. Plunging answers well enough,\\nwith a shift in midseason, if necessary. After the plants are brought in-\\ndoors the large, soft growths may be shortened, and an intermediate\\ntemperature maintained until the plants are started into growth, when\\nmore water and heat are given. After they have made a start, doses of\\nweak liquid manure are beneficial. When in bloom, gradually harden off,\\nor the flowers will fall in showers.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "18 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nBOUVARDIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A much grown Winter-flowering plant some years ago\\nnow comparatively few are to be seen. Young plants are raised early\\nin Spring, from small pieces of the roots, placed in flats of sand and kept\\nin a warm house. For the first week or two cover the surface of the\\nsand with damp sphagnum moss this will encourage the formation of\\nbuds on the roots. When the growths are of sufficient size, put in 2-inch\\npots, shifting into 3-inch pots, and plant outside during the latter part\\nof May. To make bushy plants the leading shoots should be pinched\\nrepeatedly. About the middle of September, or earlier, according to\\nlocation, the plants are lifted with balls of earth attached, and either\\nplanted on benches or put in pots. Keep the atmosphere moist and\\nclose for the first few days/and the plants shaded from the sun. A mini-\\nmum temperature of 55 degrees is necessary for perfect development.\\nPink, white and red are the prevailing colors.\\nBROWAIXIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 B. Jamesoni is a useful plant for late Winter flowering.\\nIt is naturally alow-growing soft-wooded evergreen shrub, with a rather\\nstraggling appearance. When grown as a standard it is an extremely\\nornamental subject. For this purpose take strong shoots for cuttings,\\nand grow to single stems, removing the side shoots and stopping the\\nmain shoot when the desired height has been attained. Iu Summer the\\nplants may be plunged in a bed of ashes and frequently fed with liquid\\nmanure. They need full sun. B. elata will bloom all Winter in a cool\\nconservatory. It is annual in duration. Seeds should be sown the\\nlatter part of August; a few in a 4-inch pot. Discard the weakest seed-\\nlings, leaving three or four in a pot, and shift into 6-inch pots to bloom.\\nBRUNFELSIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 About half a dozen species are common in cultivation.\\nOut of this number there are at least two well worthy of attention as\\npot plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 B. (Franciscea) latifolia and B. eximia. The former is very\\nfree in producing flowers, and is one of the best plants to put out in the\\npermanent bed of a warm conservatory. The plant flowers during the\\nlate Winter months from the wood made the previous Summer. On first\\nexpanding the flowers are light purple, changing as they grow older to\\npure white. Old plants sucker freely, and if severed an inch or so\\nbeneath the surface of the ground and put in the propagating bed, they\\nwill quickly form new roots and develop into specimens large enough\\nfor 5-inch pots within a year. These plants should be grown indoors\\nall the year round. Winter is their resting period, and during that time\\nthey should be watered but sparingly. The soil should be of fibry loam,\\nsand and lime rubble; a small quantity of leaf mould may be added. In\\nrooting any of the kinds, take very large pieces; dust the cut part with\\npowdered charcoal; allow it to dry, then put in a pot of dry sand and\\nkeep dry till rooted.\\nCALADIUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 See Bulbous Plants.\\nCACTUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This name is applied to all the members of the family.\\nFormerly it was the adopted generic name of a large number of plants\\nwhich are now divided into several genera. Quite a number are hardy\\nin the Middle Atlantic States, among these are Opuntia arborescens, O.\\nRaflnesquii,0. vulgaris, O. missouriensis, and one named O. pha\u00c2\u00abacantha.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 19\\nSome of the gaudy-flowered greenhouse kinds, such as Cereus flagelli-\\nformis, C. speciosissimus, and the much admired night bloomers C.\\ngrandiflorus and C. Macdonaldia?, when in good condition, so far as the\\ndrainage and soil in the pot are concerned, may be plunged in a sunny\\nspot out-of-doors, where they will make growth much superior to that\\nattained in the greenhouse. If the plants are in good health wet sea-\\nsons will do them no harm.\\nCALATHEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Usually known as Marantas. They are grown solely for\\ntheir ornamental foliage, nearly all of the species having beautiful\\nmarkings. It is doubtful if any other genus shows greater variation in\\nthis respect. Most of the kinds are stove plants, growing in shade all\\nthe year round, with a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. They need\\nan abundance of water at all times. In Winter, when the benches are\\napt to get dry quickly, the pots .should stand on a layer of sphagnum\\nmoss. Some of the species will succeed in a temperate house, and a few\\nof the stove kinds may be subjected to a lower temperature, without\\ninjury, after they have made their growth. Some of the best-known\\nstove kinds are as follows: C. Baraquiniana, C. bella, C. fasciata, C.\\nKerchoviana, C. Lindeniana, C. Makoyana, C. albo-lineata, C. rosea-\\npicta, C. splendida, C. zebrina, and C. Veitchiana. Those which may be\\ngrown cooler are C. tubispatha, a species which loses its leaves and\\n[goes to rest for the Winter; C. illustris, C. Leitzei, C. Massangeana, C.\\npulchella and C. intermedia. The last two resemble C. zebrina in the\\nupper portions of the leaves, but the inferior margins are almost green.\\nNone of the species should be allowed to flower, as this only weakens\\nthe plants; and seed is not necessary, as they all divide very freely. Dur-\\ning the growing season, if drained thoroughly, they can hardly be over-\\nwatered.\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Calatheas, which are freshly divided, should not be\\npotted in fresh soil until new roots have been formed. This condition\\nmay be brought in the following manner: Knock the plants out of the\\npots before growth commences; wash /the soil from among the roots;\\nprune out those not wanted, and divide into clumps, not too small, say\\nlarge enough to go into a 5-inch pot, and put in the propagating bed.\\nLet the air be close and moist, and the glass shaded. When a few fresh\\nroots have been formed they take very quickly with the soil after\\npotting.\\nCALCEOLARIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Calceolaria, both shrubby and herbaceous, is as\\nwell known in western Europe as the Zonal Pelargonium in America.\\nThe shrubby kinds are there much used in bedding, producing very\\ngaudy effects. They delight in cool, moist atmosphere, and our hot\\nSummers make short work of them. The herbaceous hybrids are raised\\nfrom seeds sown about the month of August. The seeds are very small\\nand should be sown on the surface of the soil and pressed down, cover-\\ning with glass until the seed leaves can be seen. At all times the plants\\nrequire a cool, airy spot when in the greenhouse. From the seedling\\nstage until the plants are likely to get hurt by frost they should be kept\\nin a frame. Greenfly is their greatest insect enemy, and must be pre-\\nvented from gaining a foothold on them by fumigation. Several of the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "20 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nspecies of Calceolaria are much easier to grow than the hybrids, and\\nsome of them are very ornamental. C. scabiossefolia may be flowered a\\nfew week3 from the seedling stage by starving in small pots. It may,\\nhowever, be grown 3 feet high by shifting when necessary. Seeds may\\nbe sown from August to January. The soil should be of an open nature;\\ncow manure and leaf mould should form one-fourth of the mixture.\\nCALLISTEMON SPECIOSUS, and one or two other species, make inter-\\nesting flowering plants in early Spring for a cool conservatory. Young\\nplants are gotten up from seed, but they take a longer time to flower\\nthan when raised from cuttings; neither are they so free blooming.\\nThey may be treated much in the same way as Acacias.\\nCAMELLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some old plants of these relics of the past will occasion-\\nally be found in old-established greenhouses. They are kept, especially\\nthe white varieties, solely for the flowers, which are used in making up\\ndesigns. In private and public gardens we see them oftener, and in such\\nplaces they should be more grown, as they are capable of making exceed-\\ningly attractive displays during the Autumn and Winter months. The\\nvarieties are perpetuated by cuttings of the ripe growths in late Sum-\\nmer, or by grafting before the growth starts, using stocks of strong-\\ngrowing kinds, raised from cuttings. Potting is best done after the\\nflowers fall off. Loam two parts, peat or leaf mould one part, and\\nabout one-sixth of the whole, sand, will make a good potting compost.\\nThey thrive best with limited root room.\\nCANNAS FOR WINTER BLOOniNQ\u00e2\u0080\u0094 During Winter these plants\\nrespond very readily when anything like fair treatment is given, in the\\nproduction of large heads of bloom. In fact, in a warm, sunny house,\\nmany of the kinds are equally as fine as they are in Summer, and some\\nof them last longer in bloom, owing to the conditions for the production\\nof good flowers being more under^control. The orchid flowered Cannas,\\nthat is, those having C. flaccida blood in them, are not well suited for\\noutdoor work, as their flowers are too soft to withstand the glare of\\nthe hot sun but for pot plants in Winter they are useful. The plants\\nmay be started in small pots, giving larger ones as growth is made.\\nThey are gross feeders, and will take rich soil supplemented by occa-\\nsional waterings with liquid manure.\\nCARLUDOVICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 About six species are in common cultivation. They\\nare usually taken for palms, so closely do they resemble some kinds in\\nthe foliage; but they are not even related. The one most commonly\\ngrown, and perhaps the most useful for the florist, is named C. palmata;\\nin leaf somewhat resembling a Livistona. From the seedling stage they\\ndevelop rapidly into specimen plants. Old plants flower freely. The\\nseeds are small and thin, about the size of those of Mignonette. Wash\\ncarefully from the surrounding pulp and sow in a box of finely chopped\\nsphagnum. They germinate in three weeks. Let them grow in this\\nuntil large enough to put three round the edge of a 3-inch pot, from\\nthese shift into 5-inch pots. With us the plants are useful for planting\\noutside in shaded places in Summer, and if slightly hardened off they\\nmay be used in decorating. All the kinds are stove plants.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 21\\nCENTRADENIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this there are three species, combining handsome\\nfoliage and rather pretty flowers. C. grandifolia has the largest leaves,\\nand is the most useful for decorative work. The other species are C.\\nfloribunda and C. rosea. Cuttings will root at any time of the year. To\\nget good growth on the plants during Summer they should be started\\nfrom cuttings in March. An intermediate house suits them they require\\nbut little shade.\\nCENTROPOGON\u00e2\u0080\u0094 C. Lucyanum is said to be a bi-generic hybrid. The\\nparents are given as Centropogon fastuosum and Siphocampylus betu-\\ntoefolius. It is one of the very best stove or warm greenhouse herba-\\nceous perennials. There is no great difficulty in its cultivation; but it\\nis seldom seen in collections. The flowers are rosy carmine, produced in\\nmidwinter. After blooming numerous small shoots will usually appear\\nalong the branches; these taken off with a heel root with bottom heat.\\nThe young plants will thrive in heat and moisture during the first two\\nor three months; they may afterwards be grown in a frame. After the\\nblooming season is over the old plants may be given a period of rest,\\nand then repotted, using a light, rich material.\\nCESTRUM CORYMBOSUH and C. NEWELLI may be used for flower-\\ning about Christmas, if young plants are started about the end of\\nAugust, the wood to be taken from old specimens planted out. As soon\\nrooted put in 3-inch pots, afterward placing three together in a 6-\\ninch pot to bloom. Keep in a sunny house, or the plants are apt to\\nmake too much foliage.\\nCINERARIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For coming into flower during March and April sow the\\nseed during September. As soon as large enough the seedlings should\\nbe put in 2-inch pots, and from that time on they must not be allowed\\nto get in a pot-bound state. The coolest house, with a maximum\\namount of light and air, is what they need. Soil should be light and\\nwell enriched.\\nCONVOLVULUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This genus possesses many weedy plants which,\\nwhen once they gain a foothold in the garden, are difficult to eradicate.\\neveral are very ornamental when in bloom. One of the best, especially\\nor baskets, an evergreen, with short pendulous growths, is named C.\\nuauritanieus. The flowers are blue, and about an inch across. This\\nDlant is usually increased by division, or cuttings of the ripe growths\\njarly in Spring. Seeds are also offered.\\nCORDYLINE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The greenhouse Cordylines, such as C. australis, C. indi-\\nHsa and its forms, are best raised from seeds which are easily procura-\\nble. Sow thinly, as they they will not require to be transferred during\\n;he earlier stages of growth. They are good decorative plants, from\\n5-inch pot plants up, having long, narrow strap-shaped drooping leaves.\\nSmall plants are useful for mixing with other subjects in vases and bas-\\nkets, as they stand full sun.\\nThe ornamental leaved kinds, which need a higher temperature for\\ntheir perfect development, are very numerous. Some of the best known\\nlg ire C. Baptistii, C. Cooperii, C. porphyrophylla, C. Youngii and C. termi-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "22 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nnalis. Especially from the last-named species many varieties have been\\nraised. Propagation is quickest brought about by cutting up the long\\nstems into pieces about 3 inches in length; put in warm sand and keep\\nmoderately damp. They will throw up shoots from each eye; these\\nshould be taken off and put in the sand to form strong, fresh roots, as\\nthey are provided, when attached to the parent stem, only with very\\nweak roots and sometimes none at all. They will root quickly, and\\nmay be potted according to their size, in 2 or 3-inch pots, and grown on\\nquickly in a high, moist temperature. When they reach a marketable\\nsize the hardening-off process is necessary, or they will not stand long\\nwhen used for decorating. In C. neo-caledonica, C. brasiliensis and C.\\namabilis the thickened root stocks may be cut up into pieces along with\\nthe stems for propagation. C. Cannsefolia does not succeed so well when\\ncut up into small pieces. It is a splendid decorative plant, standing\\nmuch rough usage. Moss the tops and afterward place pieces of the\\nstems, at least a foot long, in the bench of a cool house, as they take\\ntheir own time in sending up growths. The species and forms with\\nhighly colored foliage will need a minimum temperature in Winter of at\\nleast 55 degrees. The others will do all right with the thermometer 15\\ndegrees lower. With the greenhouse kinds loam should predominate in\\nthe potting soil, but the others should get a greater quantity of leaf soil.\\nFor other kinds commonly grown see Dracaena.\\nCROTON\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Croton or Codiseum, as it is now called, has in the\\nwarmer parts of the country forged its way to the front as a choice bed-\\nding plant, and very deservedly so, as the species and varieties are a\\nvery satisfactory class of plants and much easier to handle than was\\ngenerally supposed a few years ago, when they were coddled all the year\\nround in hothouses. Several of the kinds are so easily grown that they\\ncan be got up with as little trouble and as cheaply as [geraniums; but\\nthey are, of course, not the choicest varieties. Those stock plants which\\nwere planted out early in May (that is a safe period here, but, of course,\\nlater in colder latitudes) will, by the middle of August, have made good\\nripened wood, which should be selected for propagating early in Septem-\\nber. The cuttings at that period should be large and put in the bed\\nwith only a few of the lower leaves removed. Let them form quite a\\nlarge bunch of roots in the propagating bed before being potted, as they\\nare a trifle miffy to take with the soil when they have only a scanty\\nsupply of roots\u00e2\u0080\u0094 enough to comfortably fill a 4-inch pot will be about\\nright. Those plants will need shifting during the Winter, and if kept in\\na warm, moist house, will be well furnished plants in 5 and 6-inch pots\\nby bedding out time. The principal batch of the commoner kinds for\\nbedding may be put in by the middle of January. The old plants which\\nwere lifted from the beds in the Fall should be pruned back severely, and\\nall the growth available for propagating selected. A good bottom\\nheat and a humid atmosphere are necessary to root the cuttings at\\nthis time, as the wood is not in a very ripe condition. Cuttings put in\\nat any time should not be taken from plants which are dry at the root,\\nas they are then apt to lose leaves in the cutting bed. Cuttings 8 or 10\\ninches in length root as easily as the easiest rooting soft-wooded plants\\nif given a good bottom heat and a depth of 4 or 5 inches of sand. There", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 23\\nis no necessity to have a frame; the open propagating bed will answer\\nnicely. Those plants which are intended to be planted out-of-doors\\nshould have the hardening-off process begun by the end of April; if\\ntaken directly from a hothouse the bottom leaves will fall off. Old\\nplants which did duty during the Summer monthsas bedders,and which\\nwere planted out instead of being plunged in pots, should be kept well\\nsyringed after being potted and housed, as they are very liable to the\\nattacks of thrips and red spider. When plants intended to be lifted in\\nthe Fall are put out in May, I believe it is the best plan to sink pot and\\nall. They seem to thrive best with restricted root room so that when\\nlifted, although a few roots may be developed on top and outside the\\npot, it is safer when lifted to shift them into larger pots than to lift and\\npot plants which have been growing in the soil of the bed. With these\\nit is almost certain to be the case that a considerable number of leaves\\nwill be lost. Most of the finer kinds will need a temperature of at least\\n60 degrees by night, keeping the air moist and giving water by frequent\\nsy ringings. Large cuttings in the sand bed or propagating frame should\\nbe examined now and then, to guard against thrips and red spider. If\\nthese pests appear, a syringing with a weak solution of the old reliable\\nGishurt s Compound will prove beneficial.\\nRinging Crotons This simple operation is brought into requisition\\nwhen it is desired to root the top part of any particularly fine specimen.\\nThe stem of the parent plant may be destitute of leaves for a considera-\\nble distance above the pot, making the plant comparatively useless as a\\nspecimen and only useful as a stock plant. Einging, if successfully per-\\nformed, will give an almost perfect plant a foot or so high with large\\nleaves right down to the soil\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a condition we can hardly hope for from\\ncuttings. Moreover, the rooted top sends out such a mass of working\\nroots that the succeeding growth is not stunted, but continues making\\nleaves every bit as large as the lowest ones a condition much to be\\ndesired when an evenly built up plant is wanted. Plants, then, should\\nbe selected which have good, healthy tops with finely-colored, well-\\ndeveloped leaves, and if the bottom part near the pot has lost its leaves\\nthis is the only use it can be put to. The house in which the operation\\nis peformed should be a warm one and shaded from the sun, so that the\\nmaterial used to produce roots will not dry up too quickly. Select\\nthose pieces which are dormant or have made their growth, because if\\nplants are taken during the process of making leaves they are bound to\\ncarry some disfigurement afterward. The stem at the place to be rooted\\nshould be denuded of the leaves for two or three inches of its length, and\\nwith a sharp knife remove a small section of the bark; or, just as good,\\nmake an incision in the wood upward of about three-quarters of an inch\\nin length, and in depth from one-third to one-half the diameter of the\\nstem. Insert a little sphagnum moss to keep the incision open, then tie\\na small quantity around it, not too much or it will be apt to keep too\\nwet. After being tied small enough, so that the fingers can easily close\\non it, stand the plant back in its place and see that the moss does not\\nsuffer for want of water, because should this happen the tender tips of\\nthe roots will be lost and the process of rooting will to a certain extent\\nhave to be begun again.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "24 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nAs soon as the roots show through the moss the plants should be\\npotted, but not potted in the ordinary way. Many pots are broken\\ntrying to get plants out of them, but in this case we will have to break\\npots to get the plants in. Thumb pots are quite large enough for the\\nfirst shift; and these must be broken into two pieces lengthwise. One-\\nhalf of one pot and one-half of another will not do, as the pieces must fit\\nclosely, therefore break as many pieces as are wanted, and lay the pieces\\none on top of the other before beginning the operation of potting. Sup-\\nports must also be supplied, consisting of two sticks, one on each side,\\nand reaching to the mossed part of the stem. On one of the sticks, just\\nabout where the middle of the pot will reach, twist a piece of wire, then\\nclasp the moss with the two pieces of pot, twist the wire firmly around\\nthese and then on to the other stick. This will keep the pot in position\\nuntil the time to sever the top from the plant. This condition will be\\nindicated by the roots appearing through the bottoms of the pots. If\\nthe tops are not of the largest size they can be cut off and placed in a\\nclose frame for a few days before potting on; if instead, they are large, a\\nfurther application of material to the mossed part will be necessary.\\nFor this purpose 3-inch pots will have to be used, and the material\\nshould be fibrous peat, sand and loam mixed. When the roots show,\\nthe tops may be cut off. Stand the pots inside of others of the same size\\nin the frame, until they recover to a certain extent, then pot and keep\\nclose for a while longer, gradually giving air.\\nCURCULIGO\u00e2\u0080\u0094 From the general appearance of the foliage one would\\nsuppose that these plants were members of the Palm family instead of\\nbeing related to the Amaryllis. The leaves resemble those which are\\nundivided of Cocos flexuosa. C. recurvata is the only species grown.\\nThe form with variegated leaves is one of our handsomest variegated\\nplants. During growth they require stove temperature for their perfect\\ndevelopment. They stand in a dwelling house fairly well. Propagation\\nis by division. Almost any kind of soil will answer; but as the plants\\nneed large quantities of water the drainage should be perfect.\\nCYCAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cycas revoluta stems are often spoiled as a result of the\\ntreatment they get in the way of potting immediately after being im-\\nported. Having few or no roots they should not be placed in large\\nreceptacles, as the soil when once watered takes too long a time to dry\\nout, and is apt to become sour, which is anything but a favorable con-\\ndition to tempt the growth of fresh roots. Put the stems into as small\\npots as they will go, leaving just enough space to ram the soil tightly\\naround them with a thin piece of wood. They will start into growth\\nbest when in a warm, moist house, and require little water until they\\nshow signs of sending up a crop of leaves. Plants of this class make\\ntheir annual crop of leaves, not one after the other, as is the case with\\nPalms, but simultaneously, and at this period they require close watch-\\ning, so that the foliage may be prevented from being deformed in any\\nway from insect attacks, cold drafts, or coming in contact with other\\nthings during development. The temperature should be higher at this\\nperiod than at any other. When roots are formed and a sufficient time\\nhas elapsed after the development of the fronds, the plants may be given", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 25\\nlarger pots. A minimum temperature of 50 degrees will suffice during\\nWinter.\\nCYCLAMEN\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cyclamen seeds, to insure even germinating, should be\\nsown as soon as convenient after ripening. The seeds ripen from April\\nto June. The sowing season is from September to the beginning of\\nDecember, and the seeds, between the harvesting and sowing periods,\\nshould be kept in an open-mouthed bottle, mixed with dry sand. Al-\\nthough the seed may be held for years it loses in vitality the longer it is\\nkept. The best flowered Cyclamens are varieties of C. persicum. Several\\nnamed varieties are offered by the large dealers, but when once a satis-\\nfactory strain is secured the best plan is to set aside a few plants of each\\ncolor, and by artificial pollination each flower will ripen a capsule of\\nseed. To have plants in bloom by Christmas the seedlings will consume\\nfrom 12 to 14 months in completing their growth, and during that\\nperiod they should never be allowed to rest by withholding water, or\\nbe subjected to other conditions unfavorable to \u00e2\u0096\u00a0continuous growth.\\nThe seed should be sown in shallow pans or boxes, in light sandy soil,\\nand covered to very little more than their own depth with finely sifted\\nsoil and sphagnum, two parts of the former to one of the latter. The\\nswollen root-stock is formed before the first leaf makes its appearance,\\nand when the first leaf is fully developed the seedlings are ready for\\npricking off. During this process a minimum temperature of 55 degrees\\nwill be sufficient. The seedlings may be put directly into thumb pots,\\npricked off around the sides of 4 or 5-inch pots, or into shallow boxes,\\nkeeping them at all times near the light, and in as uniform a state of\\nmoisture at the roots as possible. By the middle of May those in the\\nmost advanced stages of growth should be in 4-inch pots. At this time\\nthey should get the full light from the north side of a house, the plants\\nbeing placed on inverted pots, and as near the glass as possible. The\\nglass on the south side should be shaded. For Summer quarters frames\\nare the best. The bottom should have a few inches of ashes to retain\\nmoisture. The sash may be raised a few inches above the woodwork\\nby running pieces of wood along top and bottom. The best shading\\ndevice is probably a piece of cloth fixed to a roller, so that it may easily\\nbe stretched over the glass during the hottest part of the day, or the\\nglass may be covered with one of the shading mixtures. Heavy rains\\nshould not strike the plants, but they will be benefited by removing the\\nsash in the evenings, replacing them as the temperature gets too warm\\nthe following morning. Greenfly, the cyclamen s greatest insect enemy,\\nmay be removed by periodical syringings, or by scattering tobacco\\nstems among the pots. The plants should be shifted on as necessary,\\nthe very latest ones getting their last transfer about the 1st of Novem-\\nber, the earhest plants at least a month sooner. Well-developed speci-\\nmens should easily fill an 8-inch pan. The soil should consist of loam\\nmixed with lesser quantities of old manure and leaf mould; a little sand\\nand crushed charcoal will help to keep the mass in a porous condition.\\nIn potting, the corm, or swollen stem, may be half buried in the soil;\\ncareful drainage is necessary. As soon as there is danger from frost the\\nplants are removed indoors; and to give good stiff stalks to the flowers", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "26 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nfull light and an abundance of air should be afforded on all favorable\\noccasions.\\nCYTISUS in one or two forms is mainly grown as a midspring\\nflowering plant. Cuttings are rooted in February. The young plants\\nmay be grown on in frames. Frequent syringings are necessary to com-\\nbat the attack of red spider. Pinch back the strong growths as soon as\\nthey show a tendency to outgrow the others. Keep cool during Autumn\\nand the early Winter months.\\nDALECHAMPIA ROEZLIANA belongs to the same family as the Poin-\\nsettia, and, like it, grown solely on account of its bracts, which are rose\\ncolored. It is a warm house plant, but may be plunged outside in Sum-\\nmer to make abundant growth.\\nDESriODIUn GYRANS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A plant of little beauty, but very interesting\\nbecause of the movements of its lateral leaflets, which are continuous in\\na suitable temperature. Propagated by seeds or cuttings in a warm\\nhouse.\\nDRACAENA D. Godseffiana is a plant of recent introduction; the\\nleaves are short, somewhat resembling in shape and coloring those of the\\nold D. phrynioides. D. Godseffiana, however, has the markings lighter.\\nWhen planted out in Summer, and well supplied with water, it makes\\nconsiderable growth. Every small twig may be rooted. Perhaps the\\nbest use to which it may be put is in association with small ferns in\\npans.\\nDracaena Sanderiana I am afraid will never occupy a very important\\nplace among decorative plants, because single plants do not make much\\nof a show in 5 or 6-inch pots. On account of its variegated foliage and\\nslender habit it can be used among ferns and mosses for jardiniere work.\\nPieces of the stem with two or three leaves attached root quickly with\\nbottom heat. If wanted for filling pots above 5 inches, three or four\\nmust be potted together.\\nD. Goldieana is a handsome stove plant with short, broad leaves,\\nirregularly marbled with dark green and dull white. Tops may be\\nrooted and the canes left to sprout; or they may be cut up, sprouted\\nand rooted, as in the case of Cordyline terminalis.\\nD. fragrans, the most useful of the genus, grows 12 feet high, but\\nsmall specimens are well furnished with leaves. The plants will stand\\nmuch rough usage.\\nD. Lindenii and D. Massangeana are variegated forms. In propagat-\\ning, when the stems have leaves, cut into lengths with a leaf or two to\\neach, and root like ordinary cuttings. These make stock plants. Long\\nleafless stems should be cut into lengths of about a foot and buried in\\nwarm sand and moss. They sprout freely the sprouts should be taken\\noff and rooted afresh before potting. The plants need slight shade in\\nSummer. All three require abundant root room and well enriched\\nporous soil, else they will show a sickly yellow hue on the leaves.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 27\\nDROSERA BINATA, the finest of all the Sundews, a native of Austra-\\nlia, growing about 1 foot in height, will succeed in a cool greenhouse.\\nGive soil same as recommended for Nepenthes, covering with live moss.\\nThis is an exceedingly attractive plant for private greenhouses. In early-\\nSpring the leaves catch myriads of male greenfly; and the plant may\\nbe regarded as a friend of the horticulturist.\\nDICHORIZANDRA THYRSIFLORA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of the Tradescantia family, and\\nusually grown as a stove plant. In this capacity, unless given abun-\\ndant root room, the flowers are not produced in abundance. South of\\nPhiladelphia it may be used as a choice subject for the open border in\\nSummer. The flowers, of a rich dark blue and the stamens yellow, are\\nborne on the upright shoots of the current year s growth, which is about\\n2 feet in height. The flowering shoots may be cut in pieces, with a\\nsingle leaf to each if necessary, and rooted in the hot propagating bed.\\nThey may be kept in a semi-dormant state during the Winter, as the\\nplants will form thick tuber-like roots.\\nDIEFFENBACHIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some of the old plants of these ornamental aroids\\nwill, by the end of Summer, have grown lanky, bending over the pots,\\nwith only a few leaves terminating the stem. Take the tops off and put\\nthem in the sand bed; lay the stems aside in a warm, airy place to dry\\nfor three or four days, then cut them into lengths of about 2 inches.\\nLay these aside to dry for a similar period, first rolling them in pow-\\ndered charcoal to lessen the danger of decay. Put in a box of nearly\\ndry sand, cover over about an inch and stand on the floor of a warm\\nhouse. When a few small leaves have been made to each sprout, pot in\\na mixture containing at least one-third of its bulk of chopped sphagnum\\nmoss; keep warm and moist. The tops, as soon as fairly well rooted,\\nshould be potted, not in ordinary soil, but in a mixture of chopped\\nsphagnum, manure, leaf mould and sand. In this mixture the roots\\nfairly revel, provided a strong moist heat is given. In potting Dieffen-\\nbachias put them into as small pots as possible, and when a shift is\\nnecessary they may be placed three together in a pot, making a well\\nfurnished appearance in a comparatively short time. D. Baraquiniana,\\nJenmanii, Veitchii, Bausei and grandis are among the best. They won t\\nstand much rough usage, being somewhat soft in the foliage; they are,\\nhowever, easily got up in quantity.\\nECHEVERIA (COTYLEDON) GIBBIFLORA HETALLICA takes a promi-\\nnent place among serviceable flowering plants during January and Feb-\\nruary. It is one which is attractive either in or out of bloom, and its\\ncultivation is unattended by any serious difficulties. When done bloom-\\ning, which will be in a short time, its propagation may be gone about\\nas follows: Takeoff the top of the main growth with as much stem\\nattached as will enable it, when rooted, to go 2 or 3 inches into the soil;\\nto root them, take as many 4-inch pots as there are tops, stand them\\non the bench, put a little moss in the bottoms, and then place a cutting\\nin each; this will cause the cut part to callus over without the danger\\nof rotting. In a short time the stems will give out hair-like roots, and\\nwhen these are from one-half to three quarters of an inch long, the cut-\\ntings may be potted, using soil on the dry side, and kept rather dry", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "28 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nuntil the plants have made roots enough to demand water. On the old\\nstumps rosettes of leaves will form, which in time may be taken off and\\npotted.\\nEICHORNEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Water hyacinth, Eichornea crassipes may be utilized\\nas amost attractive tub plant in the following manner: Put, say three\\nplants, in as many 5-inch pots of rich soil; fill a tub with water and sink\\nthe pots just under the surface. Beyond wanting water to replace that lost\\nby evaporation they will take care of themselves; the surface will be-\\ncome a thick mass of plants, with fresh flowers opening every morning.\\nAlthough this plant floats on water naturally, without the roots being\\nfixed in soil, it also flourishes in saturated ground at a surprising rate,\\nkeeps a fresh, green appearance, and produces myriads of flowers; it is\\nwell worth a trial for unsightly marshy spots.\\nEichornea azurea is an interesting relative of the above, with darker\\ncolored flowers. It is useful for planting around the margins of ponds,\\ncovering quite a large water surface during a Summer s growth. Both\\nspecies are easily kept over Winter by placing a few on the surface of a\\nwarm tank. They increase very rapidly during early Spring.\\nEPIPHYLLUMS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Epiphyllums are usually grown as standards; that\\nis, grafted on the stems of other plants. This method is necessary, be-\\ncause the branches have a procumbent habit when the plants are on\\ntheir own roots. Rooted cuttings may be grown on and used in baskets\\nor other hanging receptacles. The species, three in number, and the\\nnumerous varieties make very handsome Winter-flowering plants. Their\\ncultivation is simple. The stocks for grafting are usually Pereskia\\naculeata and P. Bleo. The latter is the more robust grower, and there-\\nfore most suitable for tall specimens, P. aculeata being used for dwarf\\nones. Cuttings of the Pereskias, which, of course, belong to the Cactus\\ntribe, may be rooted any time after the wood is fairly ripe. They may\\nbe put in a dry and warm part of the propagating bed, and given water\\nonly after they show signs of sending out roots. To graft, select stock\\nin which the wood is sufficiently firm; cut off the top part, make a cut\\ndown the center for three-quarters of an inch or so, then insert a piece of\\nthe ripened growth of the Epiphyllum, and run one of the Pereskia spines\\nthrough the whole to keep it firmly together, or tie with raffia until the\\nunion is completed. This will be effected in a few weeks in a good\\ngrowing temperature. Have the Pereskias in as small pots as possible\\nat the time of grafting, so that when the union between stock and cion\\ntakes place the plants will start growing quickly by being shifted into\\nlarger pots. The potting mixture should be very porous, as the least\\nstagnation is fatal to the roots. Sandy loam, broken brick, old manure\\nand a little leaf soil will be found best.\\nERANTHEMUn PULCHELLUM produces one of our brightest blue\\nflowers. It is at its best in the greenhouse during late Winter. Put in\\ncuttings during early Spring; plant in the open border as soon as\\nweather permits, lift and pot in the Fall. Splendid specimens may thus\\nbe secured.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 29\\nERICAS Several years ago the growing of these plants in this coun-\\ntry for commercial purposes was regarded as an impossibility, even by\\nthose who were familiar with their culture in Europe. But now, we\\nhave them grown here as well as anywhere, simply by studying their\\nneeds, and carefully attending to their wants. Propagation of the sev-\\neral varieties may be effected during April before the active growth of\\nthe season gets too far advanced. Have no undesirable vegetable\\nhumus or mud in the sand. Secure a good-sized bucket, fill with sand\\nand push the end of the hose to the bottom, allowing the water to run\\nwith considerable force for a few minutes. This will clean the sand of\\nall impurities. Pans or pots for the cuttings should have perfect drain-\\nage to within two or three inches from the surface; give about an inch\\nof peat or leaf mould and sand at the bottom, covering with an inch or\\nso of sand, which should be made firm. Keep close under glass while\\nrooting at a temperature never above 60 degrees F. During the Sum-\\nmer months keep the roots cool by plunging the plants in some porous\\nmaterial, never allowing them to get too wet or too dry. It may be\\nstated here that roots of plants are divided into four classes\u00e2\u0080\u0094 nutritive,\\nattachment, contractile and storage. In the Ericas the nutritive roots\\nare most abundant next the flower pot, so that an equable condition of\\nmoisture is necessary to their existence.\\nE. persoluta, E. melanthera, E. gracilis and E. hyemalis, are a few of\\nthe very many kinds grown.\\nERYTHRINAS which are planted out in the back part of a cool frame\\nadjoining a greenhouses, for the sake of their flowers in Summer, should\\nget a mulching of stable litter to keep their roots snug for the\\nWinter. In the colder parts of the country the covering should extend a\\nfoot or more up the stems, so that there will be no danger from freezing.\\nIn pruning leave as much of the stem as possible, only cutting off enough\\nto enable the sash to slide into place. E. crista-galli and the variety E.\\nlaurifolia, together with E. Hendersoni, are the best for this purpose.\\nOld plants which have been bedded out for the Summer will Winter all\\nright beneath a bench, in a cold house, with some soil thrown over the\\nroots. E. Parcelli and E. marmorata, both varieties of Indica, have\\nvariegated foliage.\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 By the beginning of February start some of the old\\nplants of E. crista-galli, or any of its forms; they are far the best for\\nSummer work. If not in pots the old stumps may simply be covered\\nover at the roots with moss and given a minimum temperature of 55\\ndegrees. Syringe occasionally to encourage growths for cuttings. As\\nsoon as these growths are in the neighborhood of 4 inches in length take\\nthem off with a heel, put in 2-inch pots, using a sandy mixture, and\\nkeep them confined in a warm propagating case until they root; shift\\ninto larger pots and gradually harden off.\\nEUPATORIUn PROBUn is the name of a species of this popular Winter\\nflowering genus which we do not see much of, and which may be grown\\nto come in after the well-known Stevia serrata goes out of flower. The\\nflower heads are as large as those of S. elegans. The only drawback to", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "30 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nits use as a cut flower is the clammy or viscid nature of the stems\\nand leaves. The plant is said to be a native of Peru; it was introduced\\nnearly thirty years ago, but has never become popular, supposedly from\\nits being confined to European gardens ever since. Two desirable Win-\\nter bloomers with dark lilac or purple flowers, are known as E. ianthi-\\nnum and E. macrophyllum. They are of little service for cutting from.\\nPlant out in late Spring after they are done flowering. This will give\\ngood material for cuttings in September. E. macrophyllum is the\\nstronger of the two. Cuttings grown on in a warm, sunny house will\\nfill 5-inch pots by the first of March, and have very large panicles of\\nflowers.\\nEUPHORBIA (POINSETTIA) PULCHERRIMA Poinsettias are grown\\nnot on account of the flowers, which are small and inconspicuous, but\\nfor the highly colored bracts which surround them. The flowers are\\nproduced in midwinter. Both for cutting and as pot plants Poinsettias\\nare highly popular. There are three kinds in cultivation E. pulcher-\\nrima, which is most commonly grown; E. p. plenissima, having a larger\\nnumber of bracts, and E. p. alba, with creamy white bracts. The kinds\\nare propagated in two ways, from dormant wood and from green cut-\\ntings. In employing the former method the old plants, after the flowers\\nhave been cut, or in the case of pot plants, after the flowers have de-\\ncayed, the stems should be allowed to ripen thoroughly, by gradually\\nwithholding water and subsequently placing them beneath the stage of\\na warm house; while there they should be kept free from moisture at\\nthe roots. During March the canes which can be spared should be taken\\noff and cut into lengths of about 4 inches. After the milky sap has\\nstopped exuding from the lower part of the cuttings, they should be\\nwashed in warm water and dipped in powdered charcoal previous to\\nbeing placed in the warm propagating bed. While rooting the sand\\nshould be kept on the dry side, only giving enough water so that the\\nroots will obtain sufficient nourishment. Instead of being allowed to\\nmake long, spindling roots in the sand they should be potted in thumb\\npots immediately the roots appear. Put a small quantity of rough\\nscreenings in the bottom of each pot, and have the soil (loam and sand\\nin equal parts is best) in a fairly moist condition, so that a very slight\\nsprinkling through a fine rose will suffice for the first few days. When\\ngreen cuttings are preferred the plants may be started into growth after\\nthe end of April. Shake the soil from the roots and repot in rather small\\npots. In removing the old soil it will be found that the nutritive roots\\nare decayed and only the storage roots remain. On coming into con-\\ntact with moist soil these storage roots speedily send out feeding roots,\\nfollowed by the expansion of the dormant buds on the canes. When the\\ngrowths are a few inches long they may be taken off with a heel, potted\\nsingly and put in a close frame; or simply rooted in the sand bed and\\npotted when roots are formed. If kept growing without a check plants\\nfrom green cuttings will give the largest heads of bracts. Batches of\\ncuttings may be put in at intervals during the Summer. When well\\nstarted in pots all the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out-\\nof-doors, but in the full sun. When the pots in which they are to bloom\\nget full of roots clear liquid manure may be given with good effect.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 31\\nPlants rooted during midsummer from green cuttings may be grown on\\nbenches, much in the same way as single-stemmed Chrysanthemums are\\ngrown. Before the approach of cool weather all the plants should be\\nremoved indoors, as they will lose their leaves on being subjected to\\nlow temperatures. The wilting of the flowers of Poinsettias, or rather\\nof the gaudy colored bracts which surround the flowers, is due to the\\nmilky sap secreted from the cut part. This hardens to a greater or less\\nextent, and clogs up the vessels through which the water should ascend\\nto keep the flowers and foliage fresh. A good way to circumvent this\\nis as follows: Some little time after the stems- have been cut and a\\ngoodly quantity of the milky sap has run out, cut off a small piece from\\nthe end of the stem and stand the cut ends in warm water for a few\\nminutes. This will leave the cut part free to absorb all the water neces-\\nsary for their support. Blooms which have been drooping for a consid-\\nerable time may be revived in the same way.\\nEuphorbia Elegans (better known as E. jacquiniseflora) is less\\neasy to manage than the Poinsettia. A start should be made with soft\\ncuttings, with a heel or piece of the old wood attached. They should\\nbe put in the open propagating bed instead of a frame, as their leaves\\nare very liable to decay, owing to the dampness. Place in 2-inch pots\\nand gradually shift on, keeping the plants in the full sun. Too much\\nwater at the root should be guarded against. After midsummer the\\nplants may be plunged in an open frame to ripen their growth, and\\nremoved indoors before the weather shows signs of getting cool.\\nEURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Put in cuttings of this about the\\nsame time as given for Azaleas. It is a plant very useful for decorating\\nand one which we see too little of. Give the same treatment in Summer\\nas recommended for Araucarias.\\nEXACUM AFFINE is the name of a compact bushy Gentian-wort,\\nwhich gives a very good account of itself for Winter flowering in a mod-\\nerately warm house. Theflowers are bluish purple with yellow stamens\\nprotuding from the center of the flower. It doesn t have the provoking\\nhabit of some of the Gentians in closing its flowers during the latter\\npart of the day. Seed sown beginning of July will make fine plants by\\nthe Fall. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they may be plunged\\nin a frame, where they will need but little attention, as they do not suffer\\nfrom an occasional drying out.\\nFICUS ELASTICA is one of the most popular house plants, and one of\\nthe most suitable for this purpose. The leaves are large and leathery\\nand not easily hurt through occasional neglect. Complaints are some-\\ntimes made of plants losing their lower leaves; in old plants this is\\nnatural, as evergreen plants have their season of leaf shedding. Young\\nplants will lose leaves through insufficient or too much moisture or lack\\nof nourishment.\\nMossing Out-of-Doors\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Between old stocks of rubbers planted outside\\nand those kept in pots there is quite a difference in the quality of growth.\\nThose given unlimited root room in the open lot have a somewhat suc-\\nculent growth with the leaves far apart, and altogether not in the best", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "32 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\ncondition for purposes of propagation. These may merely be notched\\nbelow every second leaf previous to inserting in the sand bed later on.\\nPlants growing in pots or tubs have much firmer growth, well ripened,\\nwith the leaves quite close together elegantly suitable for providing\\ntops which may be rooted in large pieces and make salable plants in a\\nshort time. To go about this operation successfully make preparations\\nduring the first half of August by tying the growths to supports. Those\\nwhich answer the purpose best are pieces of wire stakes tied along the\\nstem, then at the point where it is desired to root the pieces remove just\\nenough of the leaves and make an incision in the stem upward toward\\nthe growing point. Insert a little sphagnum moss, wait a day or so,\\nremove the moss; bathe with warm water to remove the congealed sap,\\nwhich, if left, will hinder a complete callusing of the cut part. Insert\\nfresh moss and tie a handful over the incision; keep moist until the roots\\nare showing through. The pieces should then be cut off, put in small\\npots and placed in a close stucture for a few days until the roots begin\\nto take with the soil. Syringe only during that period. This is a very\\nimportant point. After potting either mossed shoots or cuttings (if\\nthe soil is in a good working condition; that is, neither too wet nor dry)\\nabsolutely no water should be given for a day or two; the atmosphere\\nkept moist, and an occasional syringing will be all that is necessary.\\nHouse=Grown Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Rubber plants which are grown all Summer in\\na house in a moist, high temperature, have a very different appear-\\nance from those which are grown out-of-doors in the full sun, and the\\ndifference is by no means in favor of the house-grown stock. The\\nleaves are naturally weaker, without the well-developed appearance of\\nthe outdoor grown plants, and if the root conditions of the outside\\nplants are perfect, with a good mulch over the sunken pots, the growth\\nwill be every bit as rapid in young plants, if not more so, with the\\naddition of a constitution which enables them to stand a whole Winter\\nin a dwelling house without injury. The variegated rubbers are indoor\\nplants, as they are apt to get scorched by the sun s rays unless given a\\npartially shaded situation. For keeping stock plants of these varie-\\ngated varieties it will be found a good plan to have them in rather\\nsmall pots and encourage roots from the stems, especially from those of\\nold plants. These stem roots, when they get among a mixture of ma-\\nnure and moss between the pots, or even among wet gravel, make\\nastonishing growth, causing the plants to give an abundant supply of\\nmaterial for cuttings, which they are otherwise slow to do when grown\\nin the ordinary way. Cuttings notched for a few weeks, taken off and\\nplaced in sand with a brisk bottom heat, root quickly. Rubber plants\\nwill keep in a dormant state even in a high temperature, with abundant\\nhumidity in the atmosphere, by being kept dry at the roots.\\nIndoor Rubbers for Stock Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Reserve a place at the end\\nof a warm house for large over-grown plants. They make quicker\\ngrowth indoors during the warm months than they do outside, and for\\nthe purposes of single-eye cuttings, the wood is preferable, as the spaces\\nbetween the leaves are longer. They should be planted in a solid bed.\\nIf the old soil be unsuitable remove it to a depth of about 18 inches;\\nput some broken brick, clinkers or stones in the bottom for drainage,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 33\\nsome old leaves on top of this, and fill up with rich porous soil. Plant\\nmoderately close together, pruning back those which require it; with a\\nfew good stock plants a plentiful supply of growth for cuttings, or for\\nmossing, will be the result. The rubber when well grown can always\\nbe depended upon as a ready selling plant.\\nCuttings root poorly sometimes, and there are several causes. Single-\\neye pieces are dibbled in an open bed with the leaf pierced by a stick to\\nkeep it in an upright condition. During the process of rooting the cut-\\nting is nourished/to a large extent by the moisture taken in by the under\\npart of the leaf; that is, when it lies flat on the sand, which it should\\ndo. They will in this position root quicker and better. Another cause\\nof frequent failure is in taking the cuttings at the wrong time. The\\nplants have a period of rest and a period of growth. When a shoot is\\nin the process of developing a leaf rooting should not be attempted;\\nbetter wait till every part is ripened, then rooting is an easy matter.\\nIn potting off do not allow the roots to get beyond an inch in length\\nwhile in the bed. They sustain injury easily when coming in contact\\nwith anything. In lifting from the bed place the cuttings in a box with\\nthe rooted ends resting on one side of the box, and not too many of\\nthem together. Use soil of the same temperature as the sand. Two-\\nthirds loam and one-third sand is a good medium to start with; 3-inch\\npots should be used. A shift will be necessary within three weeks.\\nSlow Rooting Species, and there are several of them in common use\\nfor sub-tropical bedding in Summer, will be resting by the end of Janu-\\nary unless they are kept in a very warm house; and in this condition\\nringing and mossing, as the best means of increasing the number, had\\nbetter be attended to. Those which are slow in taking root in the cut-\\nting bed, but quick to respond to the ringing process, are as follows:\\nF. dealbata, F. Porteana (a shade tree from the Philippines, by the\\nway), F. nymphsefolia, F. macrophylla, F. ferruginea and F. eburnea.\\nWhile on the subject of Rubbers I may mention that for covering damp\\nwalls in greenhouses for ornamental effect Ficus repens has been em-\\nployed for a long time, but there is a species, new to me, which is a bet-\\nter one for the purpose, judging by what I have seen of it. It is named\\nFicus falcata, and is well termed, as the leaves resemble nothing so much\\nas a short knife blade. The plant grows very fast, has very dark green\\nfoliage and sticks close to the substance against which it is placed. A\\ngood way to start young plants climbing, so that they may be easily\\ntransferred to permanent positions, is to fix the end of a piece of board\\njinside of a pot, allowing a space above the pot 6 inches broad and 12\\ninches long; then pot the young plants close against the wood.\\nFUCHSIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Old plants of Fuchsias should be started by the middle of\\nDecember to provide wood for cuttings. The plants should be knocked\\nout of their flowering pots, the balls reduced and given fresh soil. Place\\nthem in heat and syringe freely. The growths for cuttings will start\\nalmost immediately. Do not take growths for cuttings which have\\nbeen on the plants all Winter, as the wood is bound to be a trifle hard\\nand does not turn out the best plants; better wait till the growths are\\ntender enough. Even young growth, with the wood on the hard side,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "34 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\ndoes not make good cuttings. These should be taken off during the period\\nof fairly rapid growth and kept growing right along, or they will be\\napt to remain stunted and come into flower before the plant is fully\\ndeveloped. Fuchsias will bloom in 3-inch pots, but by keeping them in\\na growing state, with abundant root room, they can easily be grown,\\naccording to the variety, from 2y 2 to 4 feet in height, before the flower\\nbuds make their appearance. If wanted to bloom in 5-inch pots, pinch\\nback the leading shoots, and when the pot is well filled with roots give\\nweak liquid manure frequently. This will prolong their blooming sea-\\nson. A single supporting stick for the main stem will be all that is\\nnecessary, with perhaps a few supporting strings for the lateral shoots\\nin the case of those varieties having large double flowers. The soil\\nshould be well enriched with manure.\\nFURCR/EA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A genus of plants closely allied to the Agaves. They\\nthrive with a little more heat than is usually given Century Plants,\\notherwise their cultivation is pretty nearly the same. There are about\\nten species in cultivation; those most commonly seen are F. cubensis,\\nF. gigantea and F. longaeva. The varigated form of F. gigantea is an\\nexceedingly handsome subject.\\nGARDENIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are only grown nowadays in general collections\\nof plants. In Summer young plants will make good growth by being\\nplunged among some porous material in a frame. Cuttings are taken\\nfrom ripe growths. Plants will thrive in a warm, sunny greenhouse.\\nGLOXINIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 So easily do the leaves of the Gloxinia produce tubers,\\nwhen properly manipulated, that it seems a roundabout way to get up\\na supply of plants from seeds. The only drawback to the first-named\\nmethod, is that leaves are not always available in sufficient quantities\\nfor propagating purposes. When plants are wanted in bloom before\\nmidsummer, the seed should be sown in early Spring. The process of\\nraising seedlings is simple enough, if given the necessary attention a\\nlittle neglect, however, when in the younger stages of their growth, is\\nvery apt to occur, and that is the end of them. The seedlings are very\\nfragile for some time after germinating, and if the soil gets a trifle too\\nwet, or too dry, they suffer beyond repair. In preparing boxes or pans\\nfor seed, let the soil be very porous and light, leaf mould largely predomi-\\nnating. Make very firm; give a watering, then sow; and if a covering\\nbe given it should be of the lightest possible nature. If the atmosphere\\ngets at all dry, cover the receptacles with panes of glass, to prevent dry-\\ning. If care be taken the seedlings may be allowed to grow until large\\nenough to be potted off singly in 2-inch pots, or they may be pricked off\\nthickly into boxes previous to potting off. For flowering late in Sum-\\nmer or early in Fall, sowings may be made as late as the beginning of\\nJuly. In propagating from the leaves, various methods are employed.\\nThe one most commonly in use is to take the entire leaf, make incisions\\nin the under parts of the principal veins (or they may be cut through);\\nlay the leaves flat on the sand with the stalk buried, and give only\\nenough water to prevent drying up. Small tubers will form at the inci-\\nsions and at the end of the stalk. During this process no leaves are\\nformed, and the tubers should be harvested and rested for the Winter in", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 35\\ndry sand. This operation is best performed after midsummer. Another\\ngood method to get up stock of extra fine varieties from leaves, is to\\ncut them in sections resembling the letter V, the lower part to consist of\\nat least an inch of the midrib, and the leaf cut obliquely to the margin.\\nTreat them similarly to the triangular-shaped cuttings of the Rex Bego-\\nnias, so far as potting them in the sand goes; but keep on the dry side\\nwhile forming tubers. Smaller tubers are made by this method than if\\nthe leaves were laid flat on the sand; consequently it should only be\\nused when it is desired to make the most of extra good kinds. Old\\ntubers are successfully wintered over in the pots in which they have\\nflowered; or, to save room, they may be taken from the pots, the soil\\nremoved, and stored in boxes of dry sand, keeping in a minimum temper-\\nature of 60 degrees. In starting, bring to the light and give water, pot-\\nting up when about an inch of growth has been made.\\nDiseases\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The plants are liable to the attacks of a disease concerning\\nwhich little appears to be known. It first shows itself in the leaves,\\nsmall brownish spots appearing, as if the foliage had been burned by the\\nsun. The diseased surfaces gradually enlarge until the health of the\\nplant suffers to such an extent as to stop the growth of the flower buds.\\nProbably careless watering at the roots has something to do with the\\ntrouble. Each plant should be examined at least once a day, because\\nthe broad leaves lying over the surface of the soil are apt to hide a very\\ndry ball; and if the plants go without water for any length of time\\nwhen dry their usefulness is ended.\\nSoil\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Gloxinia is fond of leaf soil, and it may be used to the extent\\nof one-half the bulk, loam, sand and cow manure making up the balance.\\nThey are not deep-rooting plants. Large seed pans should be provided\\nfor the full-sized tubers. In saving seeds the capsules should be carefully\\nwatched else the seeds will be lost. Up to the time of bursting open the\\nseed vessels are green; they split down the middle, suddenly exposing\\nthe seeds, which are easily displaced.\\nGREVILLEA ROBUST A\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This would be a popular plant were it not\\nthat its general appearance is suggestive of the rag- weed. It is a first-\\nclass house plant, and one very easy to get up. Seeds are sown in\\nMarch. Pot singly when quite small, and when in 3-inch pots plunge in\\na frame until large enough for 5-inch pots. The plants will stand the\\nfull sun. A cool greenhouse will suit them in Winter.\\nHAJ1ELIA PATENS A tender shrub very well suited for growing in\\ntubs. When the plants are in good health they are covered with flowers\\nduring the greater part of Summer. Propagated from ripe wood in\\nearly Spring.\\nHEDYCHIUfl These have long been grown in conservatories, where\\nplenty of room is at command. In small conservatories they are not\\ndesirable. H. coronarium has pure white, sweet-smelling flowers. H.\\nGardnerianum and its hybrid form are useful for planting near the mar-\\ngins of ponds, where their roots get an abundant water supply. They\\nmay be rested under a bench during Winter,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "36 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nHEERIA ROSEA and H. ALBA are easily managed greenhouse plants.\\nThey may be depended upon to give a liberal supply of bloom in Win-\\nter and Spring if they get anything like fair treatment. They are propa-\\ngated by cuttings taken from soft wood in the Fall.\\nHIBISCUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis make first-class tub\\nplants. When thus cultivated they need liberal feeding, being robust\\ngrowers; and as the flowers are produced on the young wood there has\\nto be an abundant supply of this to have them looking at their best.\\nWith the help of liquid manure bushes will thrive in the same tubs for\\nyears. Autumn-struck cuttings, if grown on during Winter, will give 6-\\ninch pot plants by Spring. The varieties known as H. brilliantissimum\\nand H. grandiflorus are the best singles among the crimson varieties.\\nThere are double reds, yellows and pinks; among the latter is Peach\\nBlossom, which I grew for the first time last year. It has exceedingly\\nattractive flowers; the name describes the color of the flower well. The\\nplant blooms in a small state. All of the kinds delight in a soil having\\na fair proportion of leaf mould. A quantity of crushed bone may be\\nadded when the plants have to occupy the pots or tubs for any length\\nof time. The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis should be given a trial out-of-\\ndoors; they grow and flower very luxuriantly. They may be kept dur-\\ning Winter in a structure from which frost is excluded. In a low tern*\\nperature, and kept dry at the roots, they are deciduous.\\nHYDRANGEAS FOR POTS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Hydrangea hortensis and its varieties may\\nbe propagated either in Spring or Fall. When the work is done in\\nSpring the cuttings must be taken from plants which are being forced in\\nthe greenhouse, the wood of which is in excellent trim for the produc-\\ntion of strong, healthy roots. Those shoots which show no signs of\\nblooming are the ones to be taken for propagation. The cuttings root\\nvery readily if given a syringing overhead two or three times daily.\\nPot in 3-inch pots and plant out from these about the middle of May.\\nOr the plants may be potted into 5-inch pots and plunged in well-rotted\\nstable manure. They are, however, easier looked after in the field, and\\nthere make plants every bit as good. Moreover, when lifted and potted\\nthey can be given fresh soil, which will suit them when taken in to force\\nin the beginning of the year; whereas those in pots may not require\\nshifting, so far as their size is concerned, and yet be benefited by fresh\\nsoil. Where Hydrangeas will stand the Winter some of each kind should\\nbe planted out permanently, so as to give an abundant supply of mate-\\nrial for cuttings. These cuttings should be taken during the Autumn\\nmonths, encouraged to fill their pots with roots, and then go to rest.\\nWhen given a shift from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, and brought gradually\\ninto warmth, they develop very large heads of bloom, and toward the\\nlatter part of their development liquid manure is necessary.\\nForcing\u00e2\u0080\u0094 To have the forms of Hydrangea hortensis in bloom early\\nthose plants which have been kept cool will by the middle of January\\nhave lost their foliage, but if any remain cut it off to within a short dis-\\ntance of the stem. The plants, whether in 4, 5, or 6-inch pots, which\\nshow that an increased size may be given, will stand the operation bet-\\nter if the roots are disturbed as little as possible. The same size, or", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 37\\nthose larger, which cannot be shifted and the ball preserved intact, are\\nbest reduced when the soil is somewhat dry. Put in a cool house after\\npotting, watering only to settle the soil f and syringe in order to start\\ninto growth. After a start has been made the heat and watering may\\nbe increased, and as the growth increases, weak manure water may be\\ngiven frequently.\\niriANTOPHYLLUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An indispensable plant for private collections;\\ngrows best in a cool greenhouse. Large plants need shifting only at\\nlong intervals, and for this reason the soil should have a good sprink-\\nling of crushed bone and charcoal. Increased by division. I. miniatum\\nand its forms are the finest.\\nINGA PULCHERRIMA For flowering in a cool greenhouse during\\nMarch and April, but only in roomy structures, there are few things to\\nsurpass this in the brilliancy of the flowers. These are arranged in heads\\nwith an enormous number of stamens, which are the principal attrac-\\ntion. Take cuttings in February.\\nIXORAS This is hardly a genus for the florist to deal with, as the\\nplants take more care than the prices obtained for them would permit.\\nThere are numerous species and varieties, all of which are attractive\\nwhen well done. In the latitude of Washington, D. C, they make\\ngrowth best when plunged outside, and some of them flower profusely\\nout-of-doors. I. Colei is a good white; I. Williamsii, 1. coccinea, I. Chel-\\nsonii and I. picturata are all very reliable species. They will thrive in\\nthe warmest house during Winter. Peat, sand, and a little h^am will\\nmake a suitable soil. Cuttings should be put in during March.\\nJASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although there are other meritorious\\nspecies, this is the one usually grown. Plant out the young stock in\\nMay, and by the end of September they should be lifted and potted.\\nKeep in an intermediate house. The plants will stand full sunshine.\\nJUSTICIA (SCHAUERIA) CALYTRICHA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the best Winter flower-\\ning species, producing yellow flowers in large heads. Cut back after\\nblooming to encourage growth for propagation. Keep the young\\nplants in the greenhouse during Summer, as they are not of a robust,\\ngrowing nature.\\nJ. (Jacobinia) carnea and J. rosea\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cuttings of these should be put\\nin at the end of January; they root in a few days. The young plants\\nshould then be grown on and used for Summer flowering in the green-\\nhouse. Almost any porous soil will suit them.\\nLIBONIA PENRHOSIENSIS is a charming Winter flowering, dwarf\\nevergreen shrub. Its culture is of the easiest description, and almost\\nany soil will suit the plant. Put cuttings in the warm propagating bed\\nduring the latter part of February; plant out middle of May to make\\ngrowth; lift middle of September and flower in a moderately warm\\ngreenhouse.\\nLOPEZIA RACEHOSA (Mosquito Plant) makes an exceedingly weedy\\ngrowth outside in Summer. Cuttings put in the beginning of Septem-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "38 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nber, and the plants kept in a sunny greenhouse with a minimum tem-\\nperature of 45 degrees, will give an amazing supply of bloom all Winter.\\nThis plant is desirable only for private colllections.\\nMAHERNIA GLABRATA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dense-growing, dwarf evergreen shrub,\\nwith small yellow flowers produced late in Winter. The flowers have\\nan odor much resembling that of the violet. The cuttings should be\\nmade large, at least 6 inches in length. They should be taken before\\ngrowth begins. The roots are sparingly produced. Put the rooted cut-\\ntings at the sides of the pots, so that they will take easily with the soil.\\nMALVAVISCUS MOLLIS and M. ARBOREUS are greenhouse plants\\nwhich in Winter take up too much room as specimens, and should not\\nbe grown for that purpose, as the flowers are not freely produced. For\\noutdoor planting they are good subjects, making a large mass of foliage\\ndotted here and there with bright red flowers. The new M. lanceolatus\\nfrom Mexico is the best for Winter flowering. The leaves are different\\nin shape from those of the two first-named species, and it blooms more\\nfreely. Cuttings of all three root with the treatment given Coleus.\\nMARANTA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this genus M. smaragdina and M. Porteana are the\\nbest. When well grown they are among the most ornamental foliaged\\nplants in cultivation. For culture see Calathea.\\nflEDINILLA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This magnificent flowering plant must have a high tem-\\nperature, and should be in every collection of stove plants. The flowers\\nare arranged in large, drooping racemes. Cuttings root well when\\nplaced in a pot of loose moss, in a warm frame, or on a well-shaded\\nbench of a warm house. M. magnifica is the species most commonly\\nseen.\\nHETROSIDEROS ROBUSTA and H. SEMPERFLORENS are flowered\\nfrom imported plants. The treatment given for Acacias will suit them.\\nMONSTERA DELICIOSA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are several excellent house plants\\nwhich are very little known, on account of the difficulty experienced in\\npropagating them in sufficient quantities. Among the best of this class\\nis the Monstera, a subject almost unique in the vegetable kingdom,\\nowing to the broad leaves having perforations all over their surfaces.\\nIt needs little pot room, but plenty of water; in fact, the pot may be\\nplaced in a saucer of water. It will continue to throw up leaf after leaf\\nin a dwelling house just as well as if in a conservatory, the bright emer-\\nald green of the young leaves contrasting well with the deeper color of\\nthe older ones. The easiest method of propagation is to cut up the old\\nstems to single eyes, and place in sand, in a warm house, where the cut-\\ntings sprout in a few weeks.\\nMUSA COCCINEA is sometimes grown for its brilliant red bracts. It\\nis a dwarf species and needs stove temperature. For other species see\\nBedding Plants.\\nriUSS^ENDA FRONDOSAand 1*1. LUTEOLA are handsome warm green-\\nhouse plants, cultivated for their colored bract-like growths.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 39\\nNEPENTHES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are known as East India Pitcher plants. In\\ntheir native habitats they grow as vines. Under cultivation they are\\nusually seen as dwarf, pot or basket plants. Nepenthes are very suita-\\nble for suspending from the roof of a greenhouse, as then the curiously-\\nshaped appendages, or pitchers, at the ends of the leaves are best seen.\\nMoreover, some of the kinds have long leaves, and when the pitchers are\\nhalf filled with liquid they hang lower than the base of the pot or bas-\\nket. In this case the plants must be suspended from the roof. Their\\ncultivation, with the exception of a few species, is not difficult. There\\nare between 30 and 40 species, found principally in the East Indian\\nIslands. The temperature should not fall below 65 degrees at any time\\nof the year, and from this it may rise to 90 degrees with safety. At all\\ntimes I prefer growing these plants with as little ventilation as possible,\\nas under those conditions growth will be more vigorous and a heavier\\ncrop of pitchers will be the result. Pruning is a very important matter\\nin their cultivation. With the possible exception of N. bicalcarata, none\\nof the kinds should be allowed to grow over a foot high. When a few\\npitchers have been formed, or are forming on a shoot, cut the end out;\\nthis will very materially help in the development of those in process of\\nformation, and will cause new shoots to burst out on which more\\npitchers will be borne. The material in which to grow Nepenthes should\\nconsist of fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal parts. Charcoal, crushed\\nbone and sand in small quantities may be added. During the growing\\nseason the plants must never be [allowed to get dry at the roots. One\\nand two-year-old specimens are the most satisfactory, although some\\nof the kinds will keep in good condition as long as they have good\\nmaterial in which to make fresh roots. Shade during bright sunshine,\\nand syringe frequently. The sexes are on different plants, and so far as\\nI have observed all the species and varieties will intercross. Seeds are\\nsown on a finely prepared surface of chopped moss, covered with glass.\\nAs soon as they can be handled the seedlings are pricked off in small\\npots. Cuttings should be taken from the half-ripened shoots about the\\nbeginning of December; they should be cut to single eyes only when a\\nlarge number of plants are wanted. Terminal growths, short and\\nstocky, make the finest plants, and in a much shorter time than single-\\neye cuttings. In a propagating frame, with a bottom heat of 80 de-\\ngrees, plunge the cuttings in sphagnum; they may be either pushed\\nthrough the hole of an inverted thumb pot or put in small pots, using a\\nrooting medium composed of sphagnum, sand and charcoal. I much\\nprefer the first method. Many beautifully marked hybrids have been\\nraised in recent years; these are, as a rule, easiest grown. N. Masters-\\niana is one of the best; N. Dominiana, N. Henry ana, N. Williamsii, N.\\nOutramiana, N. Siebrechtii and N. Amesiana are all well worth growing.\\nNER1UM (OLEANDER)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Much grown as a tub plant, for which it is\\nwell suited. Old plants should be kept as dormant as possible during\\nthe Winter. Cuttings are rooted early in the season, and plunged out-\\nside when established in pots.\\nOCHNA MULTIFLORA is an interesting and beautiful cool greenhouse\\nshrub. The flowers are yellow. The calyx, at first green, changes to a", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "40 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nbrilliant red on the ripening of the fruit. Propagated by Fall-struck\\ncuttings.\\nORCHIDS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although there is an immense number of species and forms\\nof orchids few of them are grown solely for their cut flowers. Most of\\nthem produce flowers but sparingly, and are chiefly grown in private\\ncollections. A large number being hybrids very few of each kind are in\\ncultivation; only those species and their varieties which are procurable\\nin large quantities from their native haunts are grown for cutting from.\\nUnder favorable circumstances, and when their wants are understood,\\nOrchids are as easily grown as any other class of plants. The epiphytal\\nclass has a growing and a resting period. During growth, as a rule,\\nthey need lots of water, and when resting they are kept on the dry side\\nso as not to start shoots at the expense of the flowers. Shading is\\nnecessary as the sun gets powerful, and a stagnant atmosphere must be\\navoided at all times.\\nPotting material\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is mainly to supply a reservoir for moisture\\nduring the growing period, and should consist of chopped fern roots, at\\nleast six months old before using, live sphagnum, charcoal and broken\\npots. If grown in pots or pans these should be filled two-thirds with\\ncrocks, the plant elevated above the rim of the pot, using lumps of the\\nfern root, pieces of charcoal and finishing off with a thin layer of live\\nsphagnum. The best time to pot is before the plants start growth.\\nCalanthe\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is not an epiphyte, but a terrestrial Orchid growing\\namong soil. It responds very readily to good treatment. As the\\ndemand for Orchid flowers is on the increase this must eventually be-\\ncome a popular genus. It is one of the few which allows of being prop-\\nagated freely. Loam, peat, sphagnum and well-decayed cow manure,\\nwith a little sand added, will form a good mixture. Good drainage is\\nnecessary, as the plants, while growing, need heavy waterings. During\\nthe growing season a high temperature is necessary, lowering it and\\ncurtailing the supply of water when growth is completed. When done\\nblooming either shake the plants from the soil and stand them in empty\\npots, or withhold water from the roots. They should be started in\\nMarch. Careful watering is necessary at first.\\nCattleyas These are the most popular Orchid flowers at present,\\nowing to their large size and delicate colorings. C. crispa is in flower\\nduring July and later; C. labiata comes in during November. C. Triana?\\nand C. Mossia? are the most profitable, as they bloom at a season when\\nthere is a demand for the flowers. Of both species there are numerous\\nvarieties. C. Trianse is in season from November to February, C. Mossiaj\\nin May.\\nCoelogyne cristata\u00e2\u0080\u0094 If kept in a healthy condition at the roots this is\\na very free bloomer. The potting material should be examined after the\\nflowers are gone, and if decayed replace with fresh material. In large\\nspecimens this is a tedious operation. A good size for flowering may\\ngo into 10-inch pans. By the beginning of June we place our plants\\nunder the shade of trees for four months, where they develop splendid\\ngrowth. Their flowering season is during February and March, and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 41\\nimmediately after, the shoots begin to push out. This species is easily\\ndivided. New growths sometimes push out not only from the base of\\nlast year s pseudo-bulb, but also from those of the two previous seasons.\\nCypripedium, the ladies slippers, are terrestrial and mostly ever-\\ngreen (our native species being herbaceous). The evergreen kinds need\\ncopious supplies of water while growing, and even during the resting\\nseason they should not be allowed to get dry. They may be grown\\nlargely in peat and sphagnum. C. insigne, the one most frequently met\\nwith, is best grown cool. It should be kept outdoors during Summer,\\nand to retard the flowering period may be kept in well-aired frames\\nuntil there is danger from frost. C. Spicerianum requires a warm tem-\\nperature, flowering in early Spring.\\nDendrobium nobile is one of the oldest and easiest grown of the den-\\ndrobes. D. formosum giganteum is an evergreen and requires heat. D.\\nPhalamopsis is one of the finest for cutting, giving long stems without\\ninjuring the plant.\\nLaslia anceps makes its growth from April onward. It is an abun-\\ndant bloomer, but on account of its resemblance to some of the Cattleyas,\\nand having smaller flowers, it is not so popular. Flowers in November\\nand December.\\nOdontoglossum With the exception of O. citrosmum the species of\\nthis noble genus have a struggle for existence in this latitude. Further\\nNorth they succeed better. O. Alexandras is one of the most popular.\\nOncidium varicosum and O. v. Rogersii Both bear large panicles of\\npale yellow flowers. Both are natives of Brazil, blooming during early\\nWinter.\\nPALMS This order furnishes the most important of our decorative\\nplants. Out of the large number of known species, comparatively few\\nare in cultivation, and of these a very limited number is grown by the\\nflorist for this special line of work. Those kinds which are raised in\\nquantity are selected partly because they are easily and quickly grown.\\nThe seeds are obtainable in large quantities, and because the plants are\\nexceedingly ornamental, and, as a rule, stand rough usage, to a certain\\nextent, without showing bad effects. Palms may be divided into two\\nsections\u00e2\u0080\u0094 those with pinnate or feathered leaves and those with palmate\\nor fan-shaped leaves. Latania, Livistona, Chamaerops, Rhapis, Corypha,\\nLicuala and Thrinax are familiar examples of the section having fan-\\nshaped leaves; while the feather-leaved section is represented by Kentia,\\nPhcenix, Areca, Arenga, Cocos and Seaforthia. The commercial kinds\\nare grown in very large quantities by several firms, and so cheaply are\\nthey offered that it does not pay to raise the seedlings in small quanti-\\nties. For collections rather lengthy lists of species are offered by several\\nEuropean seedsmen. The seeds should be covered to about twice their\\nthickness in sandy soil and kept fairly moist and warm until they ger-\\nminate. The drainage in the seed pan should be of such a nature that\\nthe roots can be easily removed from it, as very little is gained by pot-\\nting in a very young stage. In this section of the country nearly all of\\nthe species make rapid growth out-of-doors during the Summer after", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "42 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nthey have reached a certain stage, say in 6-inch pots. They are plunged\\nin half-decayed stable litter and partly shaded with lath slats. Large-\\nsized plants will bear the full sun, but not when taken directly from the\\ngreenhouse. When it is desired that plants shall occupy the same pots\\nfor any length of time, very little, if any, vegetable humus should be\\namong the soil. Crushed bone and a little charcoal will be found bene-\\nficial.\\nAreca (chrysalidocarpus) lutescens was grown largely as a decora-\\ntive palm a few years ago, but owing to its tender nature it has been\\nsuperseded by the Kentias.\\nCocos Weddeliana in a young state is exceedingly ornamental, the\\nleaf divisions being narrow and close together. It will stand a lower\\ntemperature than is generally given. It is admirably adapted for the\\ndwelling house.\\nKentia (Howea) Belmoreana and K. Forsteriana are two of the best\\nkinds, either for house plants or decorating. When they reach a desira-\\nble size they should be kept on the cool side, as they will then be less\\nliable to injury when used.\\nLatania borbonica (Livistona chinensis) is the best known of all the\\nfan palms. It should be grown under the same conditions all the time,\\notherwise some of the leaf stems will be short and others long, making\\nan unsymmetrical specimen.\\nLivistona rotundifolia makes a very neat, little specimen plant. The\\nfoliage is of a bright green color. This palm grows best in a warm\\nhouse.\\nL. Jenkensii is not much used as a decorative plant, but it is one of\\nthe most desirable for collections.\\nPhoenix rupicola has taken the place of the older species. It is the\\nmost graceful of the genus. P. dactylifera bears the date of commerce.\\nEuterpe edulis, Rhapis flabelliformis, Ceroxylon andicola, Corypha\\naustralis, Cocos plumosa, Seaforthia elegans, Stevensonia grandifolia,\\nLicuala grandis and Caryota sobolifera are a few of the better known\\nspecies grown in collections.\\nPANDANUS VEITCHH\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are other variegated Screw Pines, but\\nnone approaching this one as a commercial plant. No one will dispute\\nits right to a place among the best twelve decorative plants; in fact,\\nmost people would put it in a shorter list. As a bedder it stands our\\nwarmest weather without the least shade. As a dwelling-house plant\\nit has no superior, and as a stove plant, owing to its beautifully striped\\nleaves, it tends to relieve the dull monotony of green. There are good\\nand bad forms common in cultivation; those to be avoided have mono-\\ncolored leaves, and leaves with dirty white variegation. The good one\\nhas almost pure white markings. In selecting stock plants take those\\nwhich show lateral growths at or near the base of the plant. Large\\nlateral growths do not make good specimens, but they should be rooted\\nfor subsequent use as stock plants. In rooting it will be found a good\\nmethod to put each piece into a pot of sand and plunge in a propagat-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 43\\ning bed having a brisk bottom heat. The large, succulent and easily\\nbroken roots which the cuttings make, being confined within the pots,\\nwill be nicely preserved by shaking out the sand and replacing it with\\nsoil, or by being shifted into larger pots, as the cuttings will keep many\\nweeks in the sand after roots are made without injury. Stock plants,\\nwhich get too large and have an abundance of grassy side shoots, will\\nbe encouraged to develop those if the young leaves of the main growth\\nbe torn out. Young plants, plunged out-of-doors during the end of\\nMay, should be examined from time to time, as the roots are apt to get\\noutside the pots; larger-sized pots should then be given and the plants\\nrep lunged.\\nP. utilis is a green-leaved species, forming very handsome plants even\\nin small pots. It stands well in a dwelling house, but, like P. Veitchii,\\nmust be kept on the dry side during the resting period. P. utilis is raised\\nf i ..n seeds which, if fresh, germinate well. The soil for both kinds should\\nbo porous and enriched with a small quantity of bone meal.\\nThere are several other species, none of them grown largely, being\\nprincipally found in collections. P. javanicus variegatus is quite as\\nhandsome as P. Veitchii, but needs more heat in Winter, besides the\\nhooked spines pointing two ways on each leaf is a feature very much\\nagainst it. P. Baptistii is a handsome variegated plant, but too soft\\nfor use outside of a stove. The true P. graminifolius is not of much use\\noutside of collections.\\nPARIS DAISIES For Winter blooming the cuttings should be put in\\nduring late Spring. By the end of July they should get their last pot-\\nting for the Summer, be pinched back and plunged, so as to make large\\nheads for Winter-flowering. These Daisies can be made to pay during\\nthe dull months from the number of flowers which can be cut from\\nthem. They are not so common as they might be, and Daisies in Winter\\nare very desirable flowers with some people. Large plants are useful\\nabout Easter time. Left-over plants in Spring can be planted out to\\nfurnish cuttings for Fall propagation, to give medium-sized plants in\\nflower for early Spring sales.\\nPAULLINIA THALICTRIFOLIA is an elegant plant for clothing the\\ntops of unsightly tubs in which Palms and other plants are growing,\\nbeing also useful for large vases. It stands the sun well. The foliage\\nsomewhat resembles the leaves of Adiantums. Cuttings in September\\nare placed in heat.\\nPHORMIUM TENAX and its forms are rather stiff-looking plants, espe-\\ncially in a young state; older plants furnished with an abundance of\\nfoliage are more attractive. To increase, plant out in very sandy soil in\\nMay and divide in September.\\nPERESKIAS These are seldom grown for their value as decorative\\nsubjects. The flowers of several of the species are of a rather pleasing\\nappearance, but they last only a short time and are not freely produced.\\nTwo of the species, P. aculeata and P. Bleo, are common in cultivation,\\nand are used chiefly as stocks for the gaudy-flowered Epiphyllums,\\nwhich see for treatment.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "44 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nPEPEROniAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Useful little plants with peltate leaves, finely marked\\nwith bands of white between the principal veins. They grow best in a\\nwarm greenhouse with shade. Peperomia Saundersii is grown either\\nfor filling shallow pans, mixed with other plants, or as specimen plants\\nfor the window. P. maculosa and P. marmorata are also well worth\\ngrowing. Propagation is effected at any time of the year by placing\\nentire leaves, with a piece of stem attached, edgewise in sand.\\nPHYLLAGATHIS ROTUNDIFOLIA belongs to the same family as the\\nbetter known Sphoerogyne latifolia and Cyanophyllum spectabile. It\\nsomewhat resembles the former in general appearance. A few plants of\\nit were given a test last year, outside during the Summer, in a position\\npartly shaded from the sun. They behaved splendidly, and in a position\\nlike the above, where the surface of the soil is covered with some low-\\ngrowing plant, such as Hydrocotyle or Lysimachia, to keep the sun\\nfrom the roots, it may become a valuable feature for outdoor decora-\\ntion. But for indoors, it may be used as a substitute for the more\\ngaudy-leaved Sphoerogyne, as it succeeds in an atmosphere where the\\nmajority of greenhouse plants can be grown. Propagation for small\\nplants is by the leaf, the petiole of which is inserted in sand, the blade\\nlying flat on the surface and the ribs severed in several places. From\\nthe cut parts nearest the petiole, numerous small growths are made;\\nthese, when an inch or so high, may be potted up. For making speci-\\nmen plants quickly old subjects which have been encouraged to branch\\nmay be cut up, and the pieces inserted in pots in bottom heat. They\\nsend out roots very quickly.\\nPHYLLANTHUS NIVOSUS and P. ATROPURPUREUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are hardly\\nsuitable as florists plants, but for public or private establishments they\\nshould always be grown, as their foliage, in a young state especially,\\nis most beautifully colored even when grown in the open air during\\nSummer. In this latitude we plant them out along with other bedding\\nmaterial; they are exceedingly effective. The old plants are cut back\\nseverely in Autumn, potted and stored in a rather warm house. In\\nFebruary cuttings of the medium thick wood are taken, and rooted in\\nstrong heat.\\nPHYLLOT^ENIUH LINDENH\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This plant, which belongs to the Cala-\\ndium family, should be employed for decorative purposes more than is\\nthe case at present; not only because the foliage differs from the small\\nnumber of kinds of plants used for decorative work, but mainly for the\\nreason that it will stand the rough treatment given to those plants\\nmore so than one would expect. It is a stove plant and one of the most\\nornamental. After a goodly number of leaves have been developed in a\\nwarrfi, moist atmosphere the plants will continue to keep up a presenta-\\nble appearance with ordinary greenhouse temperature, and they may\\neven be used as house plants. The leaves are shaped somewhat like\\nthose of the fancy-leaved Caladiums; the texture is much firmer, the\\ncolor is green with white markings along the principal veins. Propaga-\\ntion is by division. Before repotting put the pieces in a warm sand bed\\nto encourage fresh roots.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 45\\nTHE PLUflERIAS are a neglected class of plants somehow we see\\nthem only in places where a general collection of stove and greenhouse\\nplants are grown, and yet their flowers are large, showy and sweet\\nsmelhng. The stems and foliage have an ornamental character of their\\nown. They make very rapid growth in Summer, being well suited for\\ntub culture. The plants should be kept dry during Winter. The leaves\\nwill fall off early, and the pots or tubs in which the plants grow may be\\nlaid on their sides under the bench of a greenhouse. In propagating,\\nwhich may be done best during February, the cuttings may be taken\\nfrom 6 inches to a foot long; stand them upright or leaning against the\\nback part of the propagating bench, but not with the bases buried in\\nthe sand. Nor should they be allowed any water for a week or two.\\nAfter the cut part is well healed over they may be potted in almost dry\\nsand, in which they root quickly if put in a brisk heat.\\nPRinULA SINENSIS has not by any means been left behind in the im-\\nprovement of florists flowers. The latest strains put on the market\\nwould almost be taken for new species by those who only knew the\\nplants of 20 years ago. P. sinensis is a popular Winter blooming plant.\\nThe seed may be sown as early as the last of March to have plants in 5\\nand 6-inch pots in bloom before Christmas. Later sowings should also\\nbe made, but it should be borne in mind that the plants make their best\\ngrowth during cool weather. They may be summered in a well-aired\\nand shaded frame.\\nP. Forbesii is a wonderful species when we consider the enormous\\nnumber of flowers produced on even small plants. Several plants may\\nbe potted together in shallow pans.\\nP. floribunda has a very floriferous form named P. Isabellina; the\\nflowers are creamy white.\\nPrimula obconica would seem to be in the process of being evolved\\nfrom the rather inconspicuous flower of the type to one not unworthy\\nto stand alongside those of the finest strains of Primula sinensis. One\\nof the European seed firms, a year or two ago, offered seed under the\\nname of ;P. o. grandiflora fimbriata, a sowing of which I made at the\\ntime. The resulting seedlings corroborated all that had been claimed\\nfor them. Some are heavily fringed, and range from pure white to deep\\nrose. The largest individual flowers are a little short of being an inch\\nand a half in diameter. The plants are exceedingly floriferous; some in\\n6-inch pots have the foliage almost hidden with bloom. To have plants\\nin flower by the first of the year the seeds should be sown as early in the\\nseason as possible. Cover the seed very lightly with finely screened\\nsphagnum, moistening the surface whenever it shows signs of becoming\\ndry. As soon as large enough to handle the seedlings may be either\\npotted off singly, or placed around the edge of a 3 or 4-inch pot previous\\nto giving them their first pots. During the Summer tne seedlings should\\nbe shaded from the sun and never allowed to get dry. They do not\\nmake much headway during the very hot months. The plants will not\\nsuffer if given their last shift just as they are coming into bloom. Keep\\nin the coolest house.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "46 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nFertilizing Primula Flowers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Any extra good forms of Primula sinen-\\nsis or P. obconica, desirable on account of large flowers, shape, or color,\\nshould be set aside for seed. During the Winter months, when insects are\\nscarce, fertilization will have to be done by hand, as it is rarely the case\\nthat a flower of Primula is fertilized by its own pollen. For seed plants\\npreference should be given to those having the pistil protruding from\\nthe corolla tube. It may be stated that primroses have two kinds of\\nflowers, each kind on separate plants, one having what is called the\\nstyle elongated until the stigma shows plainly from the mouth of the\\ntube formed by the bases of the petals, while the stamens are attached\\nnear the bottom of this tube. In the other flower the positions of the\\norgans are reversed, the style being shortened so that the stigma is\\nmore than half way down the tube; and the stamens are in full view\\nnear the mouth of the tube exactly in the position occupied by the\\nstigma of the long-styled flower. The pollen of the Primrose is ripe\\nbefore the petals are expanded, but at this stage the stigma of the same\\nflower is not in a condition to receive it. Those flowers having elon-\\ngated styles are easiest to manipulate, and if I am not mistaken, they\\nare the best seed bearers. Pollen, from either short or long-styled\\nflowers, may be applied to the stigmas. When it is necessary to fertilize\\nthose with short styles, it is, of course, impossible to get at the stigmas\\nwith a small brush, owing to the anthers filling the mouth of the corolla\\ntube, but with a pair of small scissors the corolla tube may be snapped\\nin two immediately below that part to which the stamens are attached,\\nthus giving easy ingress to the stigma. Keep the atmosphere as dry as\\npossible while the pollen is acting.\\nREINWARDTIA (LINUH) TRIGYNUM and R. TETRAGYNUM are both\\ndesirable Winter flowering plants. R. trigynum is the best known; the\\nother one has light yellow flowers and is the most floriferous. They\\nmay be planted outside, middle of May, and lifted during the end of\\nSeptember, if large specimens are required for the greenhouse; or from\\ncuttings rooted in April they may be grown on in pots, pinching occa-\\nsionally. R. trigynum is the only one which seeds freely.\\nROCHEA FALCATA or Crassula falcata, is the principal member of a\\nsmall genus of plants indigenous to the Cape of Good Hope. The\\nfoliage is rather peculiar in that the leaves are thick, blunt and formed\\nsomewhat after the shape of a curved knife. The principal attraction\\nlies in the flowers, which are bright scarlet, small, but produced in im-\\nmense numbers in flat heads. Although in Summer it will stand an\\nabundance of water in fully exposed situations, it should be given drier\\nconditions in Winter. It will succeed well enough in a house suitable for\\nGeraniums. The Rochea is a slow-growing plant, consequently getting\\nup a stock is a tedious process. The tips of the shoots make the finest\\nplants, and the pieces of the stem next the place where the tip has been\\ntaken off, can be utilized for as much of its length as will be safe to\\nenable it to break out again. For leaf cuttings the leaves must be cut\\noff cleanly and put in sand, much in the same way as Echeverias, only a\\nlittle more heat should be given during the rooting process. Encourage\\nold plants to send out small growths along the old stems by taking out", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE rLANTS. 47\\nthe tips and keeping the plants perfectly dry for a time. As soon as they\\nbegin to break, water may be gradually supplied.\\nRUELLIA MACRANTHA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For a greenhouse plant for amateurs this is\\none of the best. Its cultivation is very simple. Cuttings rooted in\\nSeptember will furnish fair-sized flowering plants by the end of January.\\nThese may be planted out, end of May, in the open ground; by the end\\nof September they will have made considerable growth; and if large\\nspecimens are wanted they may be lifted and potted. The flowers are\\nvery large, tubular-shaped, and magenta in color.\\nRUSSELIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Kusselia juncea is an old plant but too seldom seen; it\\nis probably the most useful of all our basket or vase plants. It sends\\nout long arching branches of rush-like growths with flowers of an\\nintense scarlet. Planted singly in vases there are few things to equal it\\nin appearance. To propagate it take a handful of shoots at a time and\\ncut them into lengths of from 4 to 6 inches. In this way 200 cuttings\\nmay be made with two strokes of the knife, and every one will root. It.\\nLemoinei and R. elegantissima are both good. The flowers are smaller\\nthan those of It. juncea, but more of them are produced. The two latter\\nare better Winter flowering plants than It. juncea.\\nSARRACENIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Natives of the Eastern States. There are six species\\nand a large number of hybrids; much prized in Europe owing to their\\ncuriously-shaped, and in some cases highly-colored leaves. S. Drum-\\nmondii, a native of Florida, is the finest of all the kinds, none of the hy-\\nbrids approaching it in the gorgeous markings of the foliage. Sarrace-\\nnias are best grown in a cool, sunny bouse. The potting material\\nshould be the same as recommended for Nepenthes.\\nSALVIA SPLENDENS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 When it is desired to raise this fine late Sum-\\nmer-blooming plant from cuttings, old plants may be lifted, the flowers\\ncut off and the plants set in a cool house. Under these conditions the\\ngrowths made are softer and root very quickly, a single plant giving a\\nlarge number of cuttings. Fall propagating is somtimes done in a\\nhurry, owing to the sudden arrival of a cold spell, and this Salvia may\\nbe lifted and stored in safety without the loss of much time.\\nSalvia Splendens Bonfire is an improvement on the old kind, being\\nof a deeper color and more compact in growth.\\nThere is a very large number of species, but only a few in general cul-\\ntivation. S. leucantha is very late in coming into bloom, making enor-\\nmous growth during the Summer. It is well worth growing even for\\nthe short season of bloom. S. patens is one of the handsomest blue-\\nflowered plants in cultivation. Store the roots under a bench and start\\nearly to get cuttings; or it may be raised from seed.\\nSAINTPAULIA IONANTHA is a very pretty dwarf, blue-flowered plant,\\nthe leaves resembling those of a Gloxinia but smaller. With little trou-\\nble it may be had in bloom at almost any season. The end of March is\\na good time to propagate. Cut off the ripened leaves with about an\\ninch of stalk attached and insert in the sand bed, covering only a small\\npart of the leaf blade. The eand should not be kept too wet during the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "4S STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.\\nprocess of rooting. Otherwise, the treatment may be similar to that of\\nthe Gloxinia. The plants may be flowered all the year round, or given\\na period of rest by partly withholding water.\\nSPHCEROQYNE LATIFOLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This stove plant bears the distinction of\\nbeing one of the finest foliage plants in cultivation. Together with\\nCyanophyllum magnificum, another noble leaved plant, it belongs to\\nthe same order as ourcommon Meadow Beauty (Rhexia). Both of these\\nplants look as if they would be very difficult to propagate, but, on the\\ncontrary, they are exceedingly easy subjects, so easy that if the condi-\\ntions are all right, there is no excuse for losing a cutting. Mossing the\\ntops is a rather slow and unsatisfactory method, and, I think, single\\neye cuttings can be just as rapidly grown into specimens as successfully\\nrooted tops. During January the plants are in less active growth than\\nat any other period, consequently this is the best season for putting in\\nthe cuttings. Split the stems, making single eye cuttings; shorten back\\nthe leaves to within about 2 inches of the leaf stalk, leave about 2y 2\\ninches of stem (less than this will root poorly); put firmly in sand of\\nwarm propagating bed, taking care that the under part of the piece of\\nleaf lies flat on the sand; cover with glass. Rooting will be indicated\\nby the buds elongating. Pot in thumb pots and keep close for a time.\\nSTEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A great deal of roof space may be suc-\\ncessfully utilized in the growing of this plant, the flowers of which can\\nbe profitably disposed of at all times. The plants may be put out in\\nbenches in the greenhouse and trained up the rafters, but the bench must\\nbe one which will not need repairing every now and then. The best\\nplan is to have a rather deep box of soil specially prepared. Fibrous\\nloam, enriched with manure; some charcoal and crushed bone will keep\\nthe soil open. It is not necessary to have a high temperature in Winter,\\nas most of the growth will be made during the Summer months. Start\\nwith cuttings, as they flower much more abundantly than plants grown\\nfrom seed.\\nSTEVIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cuttings are struck in late Spring. Put in 21/^-inch pots;\\nfrom these they are shifted into 4-inch pots. About the beginning of\\nAugust they are transferred into 6-inch pots. To prevent the plants get-\\nting wiry constant pinching should be resorted to. Pot-grown plants\\nare preferable to field-grown subjects for late flowering, as the plants in\\npots can be stored in a place from which the frost is just kept out, so as\\nto fill space vacated by Chrysanthemums. Field-grown plants may get\\ntheir last pinching during September, and in the benches should be\\nplanted quite close together.\\nSTREPTOCARPUS HYBRIDS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These have now attained such a high\\ndegree of perfection that they should be included in every general collec-\\ntion of greenhouse decorative plants. They are better window flower-\\ning plants than is generally supposed, not requiring a very high tempera-\\nture at any time. Seed, to produce flowering plants in the Fall, should\\nbe sown during March. As the seed is very small, extra care should be\\ntaken in the sowing and subsequent treatment until the plants are large\\nenough. In connection with the germination there is a peculiarity not", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 49\\nnolueable in other plants. Two tiny seed leaves are produced shortly\\nafter sowing the seed, and after a while one of these seed leaves dies the\\ndtber continuing to elongate. In some of the species, notably one\\nname S. Wendlandi, this seed leaf, which at first was about the size of a\\npin head, expands till it gets about 18 inches long and a foot broad.\\nSTROBILANTHES ANISOPHYLLUS and S. ISOPHYLLUS are very neat\\nand useful Winter blooming plants for the warm greenhouse. Flowers\\nare light purple. Cuttings should be taken in early Spring. Plant out\\nfor the Summer, lifting and potting end of September.\\nSYNADENIUn GRANTII is a very compact-growing euphorbiaceous\\nplant, with bright green foliage, bearing no flowers in a small state;\\nand those which come on mature plants do not have much to recom-\\nmend them. This is one of the easiest plants to root. By merely stick-\\ning pieces about 8 inches in length in the soil about the end of May, they\\ntake root quickly, making a good display for the balance of the season.\\nSTEPHANOPHYSUM (RUELLIA) LONQIFLORUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For conservatory\\ndecoration this is a most useful plant during the dull months, small-sized\\nsubjects being covered with bright red flowers. The ease with which\\nflowering plants may be had by the end of the year is remarkable. Cut-\\ntings are put in the usual time that soft-wooded bedding plants are\\npropagated; they root in a few days, after which they are put in 3-inch\\npots. Three of the plants may then be put in a 6-inch pot, and by keep-\\ning them in a growing temperature they may be had in full flower two\\nmonths after the cuttings are taken. It is not only useful as a Winter\\nblooming plant but it comes in well for planting out in Spring, bloom-\\ning satisfactorily during the Summer.\\nTINNEA ^THIOPICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A shrubby greenhouse plant sometimes called\\nthe Tree Violet, owing to its flowers having the same fragrance as the\\nviolet. It is propagated from good-sized cuttings of the dormant wood.\\nTOXICOPHL/EA SPECTABILIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A Spring blooming stove shrub.\\nFlowers are pure white, borne in dense clusters. Should be treated\\nsimilarly to the Ixoras.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "50\\nBedding Plants.\\nACALYPHAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are about eight species and varieties of Acalypha\\ngrown as bedding plants. With the exception of A. hispida (Sanderi)\\nthey are ornamental foliage plants, having bronze-colored leaves of\\nvarying shades. A Godsemana and A. Hamiltoniana are marked with\\ncreamy white margins. A. Wilkesiana has several variations, the best\\nknown of which are A. Macafeeana and A. musaica. A. hispida has very\\nornamental pendant spikes of red flowers, produced in the axils of the\\nleaves. Cuttings may be taken in the Fall before the cold weather in-\\njures the plants, but to save space the old plants should be lifted, cut\\nback, and boxed or potted, starting them into growth in early Spring,\\nwhen they push out from every bud giving abundant material for\\npropagating.\\nAGERATUM MEXICANUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is one of the most tender bedding\\nplants, although it does not require much heat during the Winter. Lift\\nold plants and keep in a greenhouse; they will give an abundance of\\ngrowths for cuttings during the months of February and March.\\nALTERNANTHERA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The dwarf and slow-growing Alternantheras,\\nsuch as A. brilliantissima and A. paronychioides are unsatisfactory from\\ncuttings, unless taken in late Summer and kept growing. When taken\\nlater they are apt to continue in a weak condition all through the Win-\\nter. But in either case they take up too much room in the greenhouse\\nfor nearly eight months. A much better method is to lift the old plants\\nbefore the frost blackens them, cut over to within three or four inches\\nfrom the roots; put the cut- over plants as thickly as they will go in\\nboxes; give water once and place under the benches of a warm house,\\nwhere they will get some light. About the beginning of March bring\\nthe boxes up to the light, sprinkle about an inch of sand among the\\nplants, and give water. Two weeks later divide the plants and pot\\nthem, when it will be found the pieces are much superior to plants from\\ncuttings and make a better and quicker display in their Summer\\nquarters.\\nALYSSUM riARlTIMUM (Koeniga)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The plant known as Sweet Alys-\\nsum is one of the last to succumb to cold weather. In this locality it is\\nfrequently in bloom up to the middle of December. It is used for win-\\ndow boxes, vases and baskets. A few plants may be lifted, cut back\\nand planted in the front part of a rose or carnation bench, where they\\nwill furnish abundant material for cuttings in the Spring.\\nAnARANTHUS will germinate out-of-doors and make fair-sized plants,\\nbut to have them at their best the seed should be sown in the beginning\\nof March, in a warm house, and near the glass, as the seedlings get very\\nweak unless given all the light possible. As soon as large enough they\\nare pricked off into boxes, and, when they reach the proper size, potted\\nsingly into 3-inch pots planting them out from this size, Their value", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 51\\nlies in the highly colored foliage, no other class of plants surpassing\\nthem in this respect. In the hottest parts of the country they do not\\nlast long after attaining their full size, and may he successfully used\\namong Canna plants, which have been set out in a semi-dormant state.\\nANNUAL PLANTS are those which germinate, come into flower and\\nripen their seed within a year. Plants of this nature usually die soon\\nafter ripening their seeds. Familiar examples are as follows: Phlox\\nDrummondii, Chinese Aster, Browallia elata and Silene muscipula. But\\nthese and many other plants known as annuals under favorable circum-\\nstances will germinate in the Fall and flower the following Summer.\\nIn this locality Phlox Drummondii and Silene muscipula germinate freely\\nin the Autumn months out-of-doors, and flower the following year; so\\nthat it will be seen that the term cannot be strictly applied similarly in\\nvarying latitudes.\\nASCLEPIAS CURUSSAVICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A greenhouse plant in European gar-\\ndens. Seeds sown first half of| February, and the plants put out from\\n3-inch pots in May, will grow 5 feet high and 3 feet through, bearing\\nmyriads of yellow and red flowers. Seeds ripen freely on outdoor plants.\\nASTERS, CHINESE (Callistephus chinensis)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A few years ago Chinese\\nAsters started early (about the beginning of February) and flowered in-\\ndoors proved remunerative; but so easily are they grown that the mar-\\nket soon became overstocked. Their habit of growing to a great height\\nin the greenhouse can be guarded against by selecting the varieties,\\nplanting wide enough apart and giving the maximum amount of light\\nand air. They should take the place of exhausted Carnations or Mi-\\ngnonette. The outdoor crop need not come in bloom all at the same time;\\nthe first lot may be safely planted out during the middle of April in\\nmost places, the seeds being sown in very shallow hotbeds about the\\nend of February.\\nBANANAS (Husa) The ordinary fruiting Bananas for sub-tropical\\nbedding will do well in almost any part of the country. With a plant\\nor two to start with no trouble need be experienced in getting up a\\nstock, as they sucker freely from the bases of the old stems. If there is\\ndifficulty in disposing of them, which is not likely to be the case, as in\\nevery community there are some people who like things which are un-\\ncommon, then use them for the decoration of the home grounds with\\nsuch plants as Cannas, Eulalias and dark-leaved Ricinus. This combi-\\nnation will make a display that will be hard to equal. There are few\\nthings easier to keep over Winter. On the approach of frost the leaves\\nshould be shortened back by two-thirds of their length, the plants lifted,\\nroots shortened back considerably, and stowed as thickly together as\\nthey will go in a box and placed in some out of-the-way corner, where\\nfrost will not get at them. They will pull through the Winter all right,\\nin a pretty low temperature. When planting-out time comes they are\\nrather uncanny-looking objects for the center of a bed; but they are not\\nlong in developing a crop of leaves.\\nThe hardiest species of the genus, and one splendidly adapted to\\nour Summers, is known as the Abyssinian Banana, M. Ensete. It does", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "52 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nnot sucker like the ordinary edible fruited varieties, but is easily raised\\nfrom seeds. Sow them the latter part of January in the sand bed of a\\nwarm propagating house, and pot off the seedlings when they have de-\\nveloped three or four leaves. They may be potted earlier if kept in bot-\\ntom heat. In one season they will, under favorable conditions, grow 6\\nfeet high, and if lifted, kept over Winter and planted the second season,\\nthey will develop into very large specimens. They delight in rich soil.\\nM. superba\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A species somewhat resembling M. Ensete, is of a slower\\ngrowth. The foliage is slightly covered with a farinaceous looking\\nsubstance. In Winter the leaves die down, the bases of which form a\\nresting bulb-like formation. It should be started into growth before\\nplanting out. These plants are raised from seed.\\nBALSAHS (Impatiens Balsamina)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Many florists depend to a great\\nextent upon the white camellia-flowered Balsams for supplying mate-\\nrial for designs during Summer. Although there are other things more\\nsatisfactory the Balsam will continue to be used, as it can be depended\\nupon to grow with a minimum amount of care. The crop is sometimes\\ndisappointing, owing to a large percentage of the seedlings bearing\\nsemi-double flowers. Those plants with very double flowers do not set\\nseed very freely, of course, and the temptation is evidently great, in\\ngathering a seed crop, to collect the capsules from the very abundant\\ncrops on the single-flowered plants to tha exclusion of those on the\\ndoubles and semi-doubles. A few plants of the best types carefully lifted\\nfrom the field during dull weather and put indoors, will seed more fceely\\nthan when left at the mercy of wind and rain, or panes of glass may be\\nfixed over extra choice plants in the field. For each plant get two pieces\\nof wood, making a cut of about an inch deep with a wide-set saw near\\nthe top; have the sticks driven into the ground on opposite sides of the\\nplant, with the cuts facing each other; into these cuts slide the panes.\\nThis looks like a lot of trouble, but it is better to do it than to be with-\\nout the flowers. For late crops the seeds may be sown out-of-doors and\\ntransplanted. To have them in bloom early sow in shallow hotbeds\\nand transplant about the middle of May, earlier or later, according to\\nlocality.\\nThe Zanzibar Balsam, Impatiens Sultanii, makes a very showy bor-\\nder plant, and needs very little care after being planted out. Sow the\\nseeds in heat about the 1st of March; keep growing to prevent flower-\\ning in a young state.\\nBEGONIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Seeds of the bedding varieties should be sown by the be-\\nginning of January, to have the plants in good shape for Spring sales.\\nCuttings are often used, but they do not make anything like as good\\nplants as those from seed. The seed should be sown in boxes or pans.\\nSterilize the soil used on the surface, firm well, water, then sow thinly\\nwithout covering the seed, or with only a very small quantity of fine\\nsand, covering the box or pan with a pane of glass until the seeds vege-\\ntate. Some of the varieties used for bedding, and which do grandly in\\nmost localities, are Bruantii, Erfordise, Vernon, Vulcan and Zulu King.\\nOut-of-doors all of them will ripen seed by September. Seed of some of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 53\\neach should be saved, keeping it until wanted for sowing, without\\nbursting the seed vessels.\\nBegonia corallina is undoubtedly the best of all the shrubby Bego-\\nnias for outdoor use. The larger the specimens when put out the finer\\nthe display. Small plants in 3-inch pots must necessarily make fresh\\ngrowths from the root, in order to attain one or two feet in height, and\\nin doing this the best part of the Summer is spent; but large, healthy\\nspecimens will break freely into growth from the old wood and produce\\nmyriads of bright red flowers. An abundant supply of propagating\\nmaterial can be secured from out-door plants just before freezing\\nweather. Old plants will hibernate in boxes under the bench of a mod-\\nerately warm house.\\nBELXIS PERENNIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The best kinds of double daisies are perpetuated\\nby divjding the plants after blooming, but in many parts of the country\\nthese plants do not survive hot weather. Seeds should be sown during\\nSeptember, and the plants Wintered in a frame.\\nBROWALLIA ELATA A blue-flowered annual species, may be sown\\nwhere it is to bloom. In this locality the numerous varieties are hardy\\nannuals.\\nB. speciosa may either be raised from cuttings or seeds. When\\ngrown cool both are good Winter blooming plants for the conservatory.\\nCANNAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The first lot of rhizomes intended for bedding purposes\\nshould be started during the first part of February. These should be\\nthe finest kinds and those which it is desired to increase, because even\\nthe smallest pieces having one dormant point, started early, will make\\nplants large enough to occupy 5-inch pots by the time for planting out.\\nLeave as much of the rhizome to each point as possible, as it will send\\nout new growths from the dormant buds between the scales. In the\\nformation of the rhizomes scales are first formed entirely encircling the\\nrhizome, which, as it reaches the light, gradually elongate until true\\nleaves are formed. The main crop may be gone over during the first\\nhalf of March. Cut up the rhizomes into pieces small enough, so that\\nwhen the time comes for potting, each piece will fill a 5-inch pot. Before\\npotting they should be put in material which will encourage the forma-\\ntion of roots, and the best for this purpose is sphagnum, sand and rotted\\ncow manure in equal parts. When the rhizomes are potted without\\nroots they always turn out unsatisfactory. Some start immediately\\nbut the majority remain dormant, and take up valuable space for too\\nlong a time. Use boxes to start the rhizomes; place a couple of inches\\nof the material in the bottom, put the pieces on this and cover with at\\nleast one inch of the rooting medium. Water only sparingly at first; as\\nthe growths push up give full exposure to the light.\\nVarieties\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It is only a very few years since the principal feature of\\nthe Canna was its foliage, the blooms being small and comparatively\\ninsignificant. Within the last decade the development of the flower has\\nbeen very marked. The beginning was made in Europe, and from the\\nfirst of the improved forms numerous fine varieties have been raised in\\nAmerica, so that now anyone can take a few good flowered sorts, pol-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "54 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nlinate the flowers, and among the resulting progeny will be found some\\nas good, if not better, than the parents. A new race has recently sprung\\nup known as the orchid-flowered Cannas; these have been secured by\\ncrossing the Crozy section with the large yellow flowered C. flaccida.\\nThe flowers are very large and showy, but the direct cross between the\\ntwo is not very suitable as a bedder, owing to the soft nature of the\\nsegments. There are at present indications of the orchid-flowered section\\nbeing considerably improved in the substance of the flower, so that in a\\nfew years they will be more largely grown.\\nVarieties with Ornamental Foliage\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some of the varieties are grown\\nfor the foliage alone; these are either slightly variegated or with the\\nleaves dark red. Black Beauty has for several years been by far the\\nbest of this class, and likely to remain so. It should never be planted\\nout in a dormant state.\\nRaising from Seed\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The seed covering is very hard and resists the in-\\nfluence of heat and moisture for a long time under ordinary conditions.\\nGermination may be hastened by soaking the seeds in warm water, and\\nalso by removing a very small piece of the seed covering. In any case\\nsow early and in a bottom heat of from 75 to 80 degrees.\\nStoring\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cannas should be lifted from their Summer quarters just as\\nsoon as the foliage is blackened by the first frosts. Before this occurs\\nthey should be gone over and labeled correctly, noting the color, size\\nand comparative value of seedlings. Use hanging labels, tying them on\\nfirmly as near the ground as possible. Cut off the flowering stem about\\n6 inches from the ground. Put the kinds together. If there be green-\\nhouse accommodation a position under the benches, where they won t\\nget much drip, will suit them exactly. If greenhouse accommodation is\\nnot available they should be closely packed together in boxes, using dry\\nsand, and stowed away where frost will not affect the rhizomes.\\nCH^NOSTOMA HISPIDA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This charming dwarf shrub is not so well\\nknown among florists as its merits deserve. It is useful in a number\\nof ways, but principally as a plant for filling boxes or baskets. For\\nrock work, cemeteries or even as a bedding plant it is prettier than a\\nnumber of the things commonly used for such purposes. It has a pro-\\ncumbent or decumbent habit, according to the position in which it finds\\nitself, and has the great merit of being continually decked with a host\\nof neat little pinkish white star-shaped flowers. It is remarkably quick\\nin making a bushy growth from the seedling or cutting stage. For\\npropagation lift old plants in the Fall; keep in the greenhouse and take\\ncuttings from the young growths early in the Spring.\\nCINERARIA MARITIMA and C. CANDIDISSIflA are much used on\\naccount of their foliage, which is densely covered with very fine white\\nhairs, so much so that the leaves have a whitish appearance. The most\\nreliable method of propagation is from seed, which should be sown in\\nAutumn. Cuttings may also be taken, avoiding those which are very\\nrobust. Give them treatment similar to that recommended for Gazanias.\\nCODI/EUM (Croton)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It is only within recent years that these plants\\nhave been used to any extent in the open ground. They succeed well,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 55\\nputting on colors much superior to what we usually see indoors. Some\\nof the higher colored varieties are unsuited for this work, as they need a\\nhigh temperature at night as well as during the day. The following are\\nthe kinds which I have found reliable: C. Lady Zetland, C. pictum, C.\\naucubsefolium, C. chrysophyllum (one of the most satisfactory), C.\\nmulticolor, C. interruptum, C. Veitchii and C. Weismanni. As these may\\nbe grown successfully from 10 to 15 degrees cooler than C. Reidi, C.\\nChallenger and others of that section, they should be given a trial even\\nin the Northern States. The principal batch of cuttings for bedding\\nplants is taken beginning of September. If there is no bottom heat by\\nthat time they will root splendidly in a close propagating frame. With\\nbottom heat they root in the open bed, and the cuttings may be quite\\nlarge. Allow quite a quantity of roots to form before potting. A mini-\\nmum temperature of 60 degrees will be found sufficient during Winter\\nfor the above varieties. Before putting them in the ground they must\\nbe very gradually hardened off otherwise they are apt to lose the lower\\nleaves. Old plants should be given a top-dressing of bone meal and\\nplunged out, to furnish cuttings.\\nCOLEUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Owing to the easy way in which young plants are got up\\ntheir rapid growth and very ornamental foliage, when planted out, the\\nvery numerous ;kinds will continue to be popular bedding plants. In\\nWinter young plants should not be subjected to a lower temperature\\nthan 55 degrees. From a few plants grown from cuttings, put in dur-\\ning the beginning of September, a large quantity of young plants may\\nbe raised in Spring. In this latitude we have little use for hotbeds. In\\nother localities, where the nights are colder during April and the first\\nhalf of May, the hotbed is an indispensable adjunct to the greenhouse\\nfor developing plants such as Coleus from late rooted cuttings.\\nCOSMOS B1PINNATUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 To have the plants complete their growth\\nsarly the seed should be sown indoors, or on a hotbed by the middle of\\nMarch. Give the seedlings enough light to avoid weak growth. Plant\\nout in rather sandy soil, and not too heavily manured. C. sulphureus\\nhas yellow flowers; late blooming plants of it may be lifted and put in\\nlarge pots, or planted out in a bench where there is abundant head\\nroom. When grown on stiff soil the plants lift easily. Some of the\\nmore robust shoots may be removed, owing to the loss of some of the\\nroots in removing. In this way they will give a large quantity of bloom\\nup till the middle of December.\\nSupports for the Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 We frequently see a very promising crop of\\nCosmos laid flat on the ground by a moderate wind storm, which not\\nonly breaks half, or more, of the branches, but the flowers on those\\nwhich are left are at least a week later than usual in making their\\nappearance and have crooked stems into the bargain. Drive in a fence\\npost at each end of the row, stout in proportion to the length of row,\\nwith smaller posts at intervals between; knock in some small wire\\nstaples at convenient heights iu the post; let one man unwind wire or\\nstrong string at one end of the row, and another take the end of the\\nwire or string and put through the staples, securing firmly to the strong\\nposts at each end. Two or three stretches to each row will suffice, and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "56 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nif tied afterward with string will help to secure the plants in an upright\\nposition against storms.\\nCOTYLEDON (Echeveria)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Frequently used for carpet bedding.\\nSome of the best for this purpose are C. atropurpurea, C. californica, G.\\nclavifolia, C. fascicularis, C. gibbiflora var. metallica, C. secunda var.\\nglauca,C.imbricata, C. Pachyphytum, C. mirabilis, C. globosa var. exten-\\nsa, and C. eximia. The narrow-leaved kinds are raised in quantity from\\nleaves; others from seed, offsets and from cuttings. November and De-\\ncember are the best months for propagation. Pull the leaves from the\\nplants, taking care during the operation that the bud in the axil of the\\nleaf is preserved. Make a depression, say 2 inches deep and 4 or 5 inches\\nwide, across the sand bed of a warm house; lay two rows of leaves in\\nthis with their bases touching keep dry until the little growths start.\\nWhen large enough they should be pricked off close together in boxes.\\nOld plants should be lifted in Autumn and placed as thickly as they will\\ngo in boxes, without adding much soil and keeping them without water\\nin a cool-bouse.\\nCUPHEA PLATYCENTRA and C. LLAV^B\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A few plants Wintered\\nover in a moderately warm house will give cuttings in March. C. Llava?\\nhas large and handsome flowers, but they are not freely produced until\\nthe plants have made considerable growth.\\nDAHLIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Dahlia delights in a cool and humid atmosphere, but\\nimmediately the mercury gets anywhere near the freezing point that is\\nthe end of the plant s usefulness for the season. Old plants are cut back\\nto within 6 inches of the soil, dug up, and the soil removed from the\\nfleshy tuber-like roots; they are then stored for the Winter in a dry and\\nfrost-proof structure.\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although the kinds are perpetuated by division, graft-\\ning and cuttings, the latter method is the one best suited for raising\\nlarge quantities of young plants. The roots are brought into heat\\nabout the 1st of March, covered over with some light soil, and encour-\\naged to make growth by frequent syringing. As soon as the shoots are\\n3 or 4 inches long, separate from the parent, taking them with a heel.\\nThey can then either be put singly in small pots and kept close and\\nwarm until rooted, or put in an ordinary propagating bed with a bot-\\ntom heat of 75 degrees. The sand need not be kept very moist, but the\\natmosphere should contain enough moisture to prevent wilting. As\\nsoon as weather permits the plants should be put out in a frame to\\nharden.\\nVarieties\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The large and perfectly symmetrical flowers are rather\\nstiff and artificial looking for cutting purposes. The cactus-flowered\\nsection do not have this fault; nearly all of them are well worth grow-\\ning. The Pompons, especially those with white flowers, can be utilized\\nfor various purposes. The single-flowered varieties can all be used for\\ncutting; this section seeds freely, and some of the strains offered by\\nEuropean seedsmen come remarkably true, but good kinds should be\\nperpetuated from cuttings.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 57\\nSoil This should be very rich and light, and if the plants are put in\\npositions where it is inconvenient to water them during dry weather\\nthey should get a mulching of half-decayed stable bedding.\\nERYTHRINA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties of E. Crista-Galli are seldom without\\nflowers during the hottest months when planted out. During Winter\\nthey should be kept dry, under a bench, and may even be put out in that\\nstate, although quicker results may be had by starting them into\\ngrowth before planting. They are best propagated by giving the old\\nplants heat and moisture, to produce growths about the 1st of March.\\nWhen a few inches long take off with a heel, pot in sandy soil and stand\\nthem in a warm propagating frame.\\nFICUS ELASTICA may be associated with such plants as Variegated\\nScrew Pines, Crotons, Variegated Panax and Dracaena Sanderiana in\\nthe formation of tropical groups of plants. They make very rapid prog-\\nress when plunged in 5-inch pots shortly after being potted from 3-inch\\npots. All of these may be arranged where the full sun will strike them.\\nThe Ficus must be examined from time to time, to prevent the roots\\nfrom establishing themselves outside of the pots.\\nGAZANIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Decumbent composite plants from South Africa, of a\\nsomewhat succulent growth, and succeeding well in partially shaded\\npositions. In the Northern States they thrive in full sun. The flowers\\nare large, deep orange. Owing to the succulent character of the plants\\nthe cuttings are liable to decay when placed in wet sand. Put them in\\nboxes, using sandy loam. Make the soil quite firm; give one good\\nwatering, then put in the cuttings and keep in a cold but close frame\\nuntil rooted. This may be done about the end of September; on the\\napproach of severe weather bring the boxes into a cool greenhouse and\\npot off in early Spring.\\nGERANIUn\u00e2\u0080\u0094 See Pelargonium.\\nHELIOTROPE Heliotropium peravianum)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Grown principally on ac-\\ncount of the sweet-scented flowers. There are dark and light lilac varie-\\nties, also a few with whitish flowers. A few years ago a very large-flowered\\nkind was sent out, but it had no perfume, and its first season was its last.\\nThe kinds will succeed best in full sun. Old plants should be wintered,\\nplanted out on a bench. A minimum temperature of 40 degrees will suit.\\nFrom these plants abundant material for propagation may be had in\\nearly Spring.\\nHUNNEMANNIA FUMARI^EFOLIA, for late Summer and Fall cutting,\\nbeats all other members of the Poppy family. Seeds of the earliest\\nflowers will have ripened by the end of September. They should be\\ngathered and laid away in a cool, dry place for sowing in early Spring,\\ntaking care not to burst the seed vessfls. The only difficulty attending\\nthe cultivation of this Poppy is in the seedling stage. The young plants\\nare difficult to transfer from the sped pan to small pots, but this can be\\navoided if the seeds are sown in small pots, with the soil firmly pressed\\nbefore sowing and shifted on as the plants require it. The flowers resem-\\nble those of some of the Eschscholtzias, to which genus it is closely\\nallied; but there is much more substance to the flowers of the Hunne-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "58 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nmannia and also to the flower stems. They can be cut and kept in\\nexcellent condition for several days. It thrives well in sandy soil, and\\nneeds but little attention in the way of watering after planting out. It\\nsometimes stands the Winters in the District of Columbia, but oftener it\\ngets killed outright.\\nISOTOriA LONGIFLORA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This plant is figured in Curtis Botanical\\nMagazine under the name of Lobelia longiflora. It beloDgs to the order\\nCampanulacese. In Europe it is grown as a greenhouse subject. In\\nAmerica it is one of our most showy white flowering biennials for the\\nopen border. The plants before coming in bloom are anything but\\nattractive, as they closely resemble some of our common coarse-grow-\\ning weeds. The flowers, on large plants, are anything but sparingly\\nproduced; they are pure white, an inch or so across the petals. Sow\\nthe seed in a cool greenhouse in the Autumn, or in a warm house early in\\nSpring. Each plant will ripen an immense quantity of seed.\\nIRESINE (Achyranthes)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 As a bedding plant, treat much the same\\nas Coleus. They will stand a lower temperature. Cuttings put in dur-\\ning September can be used as stock plants in the Spring.\\nLANTANA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Low-growing greenhouse shrubs with yellow, white, red\\nand purple flowers in small, close heads. They are perfectly at home in\\nthe open border, growing most luxuriantly in heavy, well-manured soil.\\nThe leaves and flowers have an undesirable odor, which is against their\\never becoming very popular. Take cuttings early, and from plants thus\\nraised they may be further propagated during February. A minimum\\ntemperature of 50 degrees will suit all of the kinds.\\nLOBELIA ERINUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very popular bedding plant in Europe, but\\nshort-lived here, owing principally to the high temperature during mid-\\nsummer. A few old plants kept on a bench along with such things as\\nHeliotrope and Ageratum will give] fine cuttings, which are rooted be-\\nginning of March and transferred to a hotbed, to make growth.\\nMESEMBRYANTHEriUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The pretty little variegated Ice plant,\\nknown under the name of Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum,\\nhas a habit of damping off in the propagating bed when treated like the\\nmajority of bedding plants. A way to circumvent this is to prepare\\nshallow boxes of sand t ana leaf-soil. Give one good watering previous\\nto putting in the cutting. Let the oxes stand for a few hours, put in\\nthe cuttings quite close together and stand them on a bench over the\\nheating pipes. Give no more water till rooted; that is, if the soil does\\nnot become too dry; in this case the cuttings should not be watered with\\na rose. This variety is one of the prettiest of dwarf bedding plants, and\\nshould be more commonly grown. M. crystallium, M. tricolor, with\\npink and white flowers, and M. amcena, the latter an evergreen species,\\nare all used for outdoor planting. The annual kinds should be sown\\nindoors beginning of March. Cuttings of the perennial kinds should be\\nrooted in Autumn.\\nMIGNONETTE, (Reseda)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For pot culture sow beginning of Septem-\\nber in 3-inch pots; leave three of the strongest seedlings in each pot, and\\nlong before the plants are pot-bound shift into 5-inch pots. Keep in the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 59\\ncoolest house, where* they can be given abundant ventilation and full\\nsun at all times. About two quarts of soot to a barrel of water makes\\na good liquid manure. For bloomiug out-of-doors sow thinly as soon\\nas weather permits.\\nFor early flowering seed may be sown during the first half of August.\\nThe method of sowing the seed on the benches is the one there is the\\nleast difliculty with, and that calling for the least amount of intelli-\\ngent care, as a number of seeds can be sown at each station where they\\nare intended to flower, and the strongest plants left. This system is\\nnot always convenient, however. Other methods consist of sowing in\\npots and planting from them, or in boxes or pans, and pricked out from\\nthese into small pots, shifting if necessary, and planting out when the\\nproper time arrives. Mignonette seedlings, when they get beyond a\\ncertain size, are exceedingly diflicult to prick off successfully; but when\\ntaken as soon as they can be handled there is little danger of failure if\\nordinary precautions are taken against damping off, suffering from too\\nmuch or too little water, or from the direct rays of the sun until the\\nseedlings are established. Mignonette likes cool treatment, so that\\nattempts to coddle it by giving a high, close atmosphere will not pro-\\nduce flowers worth the cutting, if they ever reach the flowering stage.\\nThe soil to grow it in should be well enriched with cow manure, and\\nwell firmed before either sowing or planting. There are several kinds\\non the market to select from; but there is not so much in the variety as\\nin the way it is grown.\\nMIMULUS MOSCHATUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An old-fashioned plant with a musky odor.\\nIt will keep in a frame during the Winter, and may be brought indoors\\nearly in the season, divided into small pieces and potted. It grows best\\nin a shaded cool house, or it may be planted out in a moist shady spot.\\nniRABILIS JALAP A\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species (the Marvel of Peru or Four\\no Clock) has tuberous roots, and in Winter may be stored in the same\\nway as the roots of the Dahlia, or raised annually from seeds sown in-\\ndoors. The flowers are very showy, of various colors, principally yel-\\nlow, crimson, red and white.\\nNIEREnBERGIA FRUTESCENS and N. GRACILIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Seeds of these\\nshould be sown in September and plants wintered in a frame. The fol-\\nlowing Summer they will make much better subjects than from Spring-\\nsown seed. They are principally used in large vases, but they make\\nexceedingly showy plants for the rock garden and border.\\nNIGELLA DAITASCENA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 As soon as the weather permits seeds may\\nbe sown rather thinly where the plants are intended to bloom in the\\nopen border.\\nOXALIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For outdoor blooming during September and October\\nknock out a few plants from their flowering pots and start some of the\\nlargest bulbs about the middle of July in 3-inch pots. Use light soil.\\nSome of the plants will be in flower inside of a month. They can be used\\nas bedders, to take the places of plants which die off as the result of\\nwarm weather; for instance, Ten-Week Stocks, Lobelias and Pansies.\\nOxalis Bowiei, O. hirta, O. rosacea, and one which goes under the name", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "60 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nof 0. crydentelles, are all very suitable for this kind of work. Plants\\nwhich were in bloom during the Winter and Spring may be started for\\nthis purpose after a few weeks rest.\\nPANDANUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 For bedding purposes the^ best plant in this genus is\\nP. Veitchii. It will thrive in almost any position, but it makes better\\nleaves in full sun than it does in shade. As young plants increase in\\nvalue up. to a certain size, they should be put out in their pots, and once\\nor twice during Summer should be examined at the roots and larger\\npots given if necessary. The roots are large and soft, and when they\\ngrow over the sides of the plunged pot and into the surrounding soil\\nthey are difficult to manage afterward.\\nPANSIES (Viola)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 To have pansy plants ready to put out in the Fall\\nthe seed should be sown about the middle of August, and even earlier,\\nwhere the weather will permit. In the very warm weather the princi-\\npal danger is in the damping of the seedling plants shortly after they have\\ngerminated. Sow thinly and cover lightly with screened moss, or old\\nmanure, giving only enough water to keep the surface slightly moist.\\nIn the warmer parts of the country it will require good judgment in\\nselecting a suitable place for the seed boxes during germination. One\\ncan be secured by raising some shaded sash above them, in a place\\nwhere the air is not apt to get stagnant. As soon as the seedlings are\\nlarge enough to handle, they should be pricked out in boxes of moder-\\nately moist soil, and for some time only given gentle sprinklings through\\na fine rose to prevent wilting. They are put in their Winter quarters by\\nthe beginning of October and given a mulching of rotted manure shortly\\nafterward. In this way they can be grown in the same beds with low\\ngrowing bulbous plants, such as Crocus, Galanthus or Scillas, these\\nbulbs going out of flower just as the Pansies are coming in, securing a\\nseason of bloom from the time when the snow disappears until very\\nwarm weather, or, in Northern latitudes, all Summer long. In some\\nparts the plants make sufficient progress before the advent of cool\\nweather, not only to bloom, but to send up numerous shoots from the\\nbase of the plant. This is a good opportunity to select cuttings of the\\nfinest forms to raise seed from. Take those cuttings having a small\\npiece of solid stem; put in sand, treating them as cool as possible. As\\nsoon as rooted place in boxes of light soil and Winter in frames, plant-\\ning out as soon as weather will permit. It should be borne in mind\\nthat plants put out in the Fall always give the best results in Spring.\\nPansies to Flower in Frames\u00e2\u0080\u0094 If sown early enough and potted off\\nthe seedlings will show the colors before planting and thus enable the\\ngrower to select those which are best for selling. These should be\\nplanted in a* frame facing south so that they will catch all of the sun-\\nshine available during the Winter months. If pinched back frequently it\\nwill induce the plants to make bushy growth before freezing weather;\\nthen mulch with leaf soil or old manure, giving air whenever the weather\\nwill allow of it. They will throw up an amazing quantity of bloom\\nearly in the season, which will pay to cut with the foliage attached so\\nthat good long stems can be secured. Pansy seed should be sown in\\nvery shallow boxes. The plants delight in a low temperature and a", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 61\\nsoil which is open enough to enable the small succulent roots to ramify\\nfreely through it. It is not necessary to have the soil largely of vegetable\\nhumus; one that answers well may be made up as follows: Screen\\nsome soil through a No. 8 sieve; the rough material which does not go\\nthrough the meshes put through a No. 3 sieve. This, mixed with leaf\\nsoil, to one-third of its bulk, will insure a good germination. The idea\\nis to keep the roots in a healthy growing, state with abundance of air\\naround the seed leaves to prevent damping off. Pansies do better out-\\nside during Winter than most people suppose. Planted early with a\\nlittle mulching, and if the weather gets very severe, some old stable\\nbedding thrown over them, will give all the protection necessary. For\\nplants for Spring sales the seed may be sown late and Wintered in cold\\nframes, or it may be sown early in the Spring; but the most satisfactory\\nplants are obtained from early sowing.\\nTufted Pansies\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are what the Scotch florists up to within a few\\nyears ago used to call bedding Violas; but as Pansies, tufted Pansies\\nand Violets are all members of the genus Viola, the use of the generic\\nname for any one section of the genus has generally been discarded.\\nThe tufted varieties are hybrids from V. cornuta, V. lutea and V. trico-\\nlor. They spread at the root much more than the ordinary Pansies do,\\nmaking a great mass of flowers, especially in cool climates, for the\\ngreater part of the Summer. After Pansies having become so popular\\nin this country I am afraid the tufted Pansy would have a struggle for\\nexistence in the estimation of the ordinary flower lover. Although in\\nthe tufted Pansies there .is a greater diversity of color, more graceful\\nflowers, and the plants are very floriferous, the flowers are much smaller\\nthan in the ordinary k Pansy, and it is a question if they would become\\npopular.\\nPELARdONIUn-(This genus includes the bedding Geranium). Cut-\\ntings are rooted during the end of September or first half of October,\\naccording to locality. Plants that are well developed without being\\ndrawn are best for supplying wood. The usual method is to put\\neach cutting in a thumb pot and stand these close together for the time\\nbeing in a frame or cool house. Leaf mould, sand and loam in equal\\nparts will answer as a soil. Give one watering, enough to moisten the\\nsoil; subsequent waterings will be necessary only when it gets dry.\\nTake the cutting immediately under a joint and shorten back the large\\nleaf blades one half. By the end of the year they should be shifted into\\n3-inch pots, using stronger soil, and a month or six weeks later the\\nplants will give a batch of cuttings which may be potted like the first\\nlot. A hot, stagnant atmosphere must be avoided at all times. A sav-\\ning of time and space may be accomplished, together with providing\\nequally fine plants, if the old method of propagation be adhered to.\\nThis consists in putting the cuttings, made with the leaf blades short-\\nened somewhat, into boxes pretty thickly together, standing the boxes\\noutside, partly shaded from the sun until they root. Little water is\\ngiven during the operation, and heavy rains are to be guarded against\\nby having sash ready to cover the plants. The soil used should be such\\nas to enable the rooted cuttings to thrive in it until January when they", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "62 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nare potted up. If kept on the dry side they will bear considerable cold,\\nand will be prevented from making a too rapid growth. By this\\nmethod there should be no necessity for putting in a second batch of\\ncuttings from the tops of the first lot. Give this method a trial on a\\nsmall scale, until familiar with its working.\\nIvy=leaved Section\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The stems of these are not so succulent as those\\nof the Zonales, and should be rooted in the sand bed. Old plants potted\\nup after being cut back will give abundant material for propagation.\\nFancy Pelargoniums are of no service for bedding, as they have only\\na short flowering period. In this latitude they are never seen at their\\nbest, and it hardly pays to grow them. In the Northern States they do\\nbetter. Cuttings should be put in early, and kept in a growing condi-\\ntion from the start. Large plants are secured by reducing the balls of\\none or two-year old plants and repotting.\\nPENT AS CARNEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 More familiar as a stove plant than for bedding\\npurposes. In the warmer parts of the country, however, it will give\\nthree months of rather showy bloom. Treat the cuttings similarly to\\nthose of Lantana.\\nPERISTROPHE ANGUSTIFOLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A rather loose growing, but dwarf\\nand finely variegated plant, useful for vases and baskets. Propagate\\nin Spring from lifted plants.\\nPETUNIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It is always advisable to sow the best strains of tha\\ndouble Petunia seed, as the majority of the seedlings will furnish all the\\nsingle flowered plants necessary for ordinary use. The doubles can\\neasily be picked out from the singles before the flowering period. They\\nare known by their stocky appearance, the singles having a decidedly\\nannual look shortly after the seedling stage has been passed. In\\norder to prevent washing of the soil after the seed is sown, use boxes,\\nsay 3 inches deep; put a shallow layer of sphagnum in the bottom,\\nmake the soil firm, give a watering sufficient to wet the soil through;\\nthen when the surface will admit of the operation roughen it with the\\nends of the fingers. Sow the, seed thinly and smooth the surface with\\nthe end of a cigar box without covering with soil. A pane of glass or a\\npiece of damp cloth placed over the box will prevent a too rapid evap-\\noration of the moisture till the seeds have germinated. They may be\\nsown during the first part of February.\\nPHLOX DRUMnONDII\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The numerous varieties of this popular flower\\nshould be sown by the middle of February. The single whites and reds\\nare most in demand. In sowing cover the seeds with sphagnum rubbed\\nthrough a No. 4 sieve. In a moderate temperature they will germinate\\ninside of a week. After the seedlings are large enough they should be\\npricked off into boxes from which they should be transferred to pots\\nlater in the season. When put in pots during the seedling stage they are\\napt to throw up flowering stems, and become hard before sufficient\\ngrowth has been formed. For late flowering plants a batch of seed may\\nbe sown beginning of May; these will be of most service if white varie-\\nties are selected.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "BEDDING PLANTS. 63\\nPLUMBAGO CAPENSIS is usually treated as a greenhouse plant. It\\nblooms after midsummer on the current year s growth. Our warm\\nSummers are very favorable to its growth out-of-doors, and it certainly\\nought to be largely grown for this purpose, as there is no other plant\\nwhich can supply the color (light blue) so abundantly. Plants from\\nFall struck cuttings will be large enough by planting out time to fill 4-\\ninch pots, and they ought to be planted out from this size for early\\nblooming, as younger plants are too apt to make growth instead of\\nflower. The best flowering plants are those which have been Wintered\\nover in a dormant state, the larger the better; by midsummer they are\\na solid mass of bloom. There is a white flowered form which goes well\\nwith the blue one, but this should not be confounded with P. zeylanica\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094a worthless species.\\nRICINUS (Castor Bean)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This grows, according to variety, from 5 to\\n15 feet in height. R. zanzibarensis, a green-leaved form, continues\\ngrowing all Summer and does not even ripen its seeds in this locality.\\nR. Gibsoni has blood-red foliage. The seeds should be sown beginning\\nof April in small pots, as they form a large mass of roots quickly after\\ngerminating.\\nSALVIA SPLENDENS, the scarlet Sage, is the most used of this exten-\\nsive genus for bedding purposes. Young plants are raised early in\\nSpring from cuttings taken from lifted and headed back plants. S.\\nmarmorata, S. Im. Bedman, S. alba and S. Mrs. Stevens are all well-\\nknown kinds.\\nSANCHEZIA NOBILIS puts on a very rampant growth when placed\\nout-of-doors in rich soil. Although a bed of Cannas may look best by\\nthemselves, a border is often wanted of some other plant; this species\\nwill answer well for such a purpose. Good-sized cuttings root very\\nfreely. They may be Wintered in 3-inch pots in a moderately warm\\nhouse.\\nSANTOLINA INCANA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although a perfectly hardy, dwarf shrub, it is\\nfrequently used for Summer effects in carpet bedding. It can be rooted\\nany time before frost, in boxes of sand kept in a cool, close frame, or\\nfrom old plants wintered in a frame. Cuttings may be secured in Spring.\\nSWAINSONA Not only is this plant useful for Winter blooming, but\\nearly struck cuttings grown in well-drained soil will flower well in Sum-\\nmer. Old cut back plants which have flowered during the previous\\nWinter will also supply an abundance of bloom when planted out.\\nSTROBILANTHES DYERIANUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species, especially in a young\\nstate, has foliage suggestive of some of the highly -colored Bertolonias.\\nIts treatment should be similar to that afforded the Coleus, so far as\\nWintering and propagating are concerned. When planted out in the full\\nsun, the leaves are apt to have a washed-out appearance, especially on\\nold plants. A situation having partial shade is best.\\nTAGETES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some of the Mexican species are useful for late blooming.\\nIn the open border they are among the last plants in flower. The im-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "64 BEDDING PLANTS.\\nproved kinds may be sown in a gentle hotbed and transplanted to where\\nthey are to bloom.\\nVERBENAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties of these used to be kept true to name, the\\nplants lifted in the Fall and cuttings taken in early Spring. Seeds can\\nnow be depended upon to furnish the finest flowering plants. They\\nshould be sown in February and the seedlings potted as soon as large\\nenough. Pinching should be done early to make the plants branch and\\nhave them in bloom by planting-out time.\\nV. venosa, an herbaceous species, with heads of purple flowers, is\\nhardy in the Middle States. It may be raised from seed sown at the\\nsame period as the garden varieties, or from division of the roots in the\\nearly part of April.\\nTORENIA FOURNIERI is none too common yet as a half-hardy annual.\\nAlthough it will germinate outside it takes too long a time in blooming.\\nOwing to the color of the flowers (different shades of violet) it is desira-\\nble, as bedding plants of that color are not plentiful. Sow indoors mid-\\ndle of March and allow the seedlings to gain a considerable headway\\nbefore potting. T. asiatica and T. Bailloni are well suited for basket or\\nvase work, as they are of a procumbent habit. T. Fournieri is of erect\\ngrowth.\\nTROP/EOLUM Indian Cress With the exception of the double-flowered\\nforms, which are perpetuated by cuttings, those varieties commonly\\ngrown are raised annually from seeds. The seed must not be sown too\\nearly, because they make rapid progress, and are apt to produce spin-\\ndling growth in small pots. T. majus and dwarf forms and T. Lobbi-\\nanum are well known and useful as climbers, or for planting in beds.\\nAll of them are quite tender, and should be put out rather late.\\nV1NCA ROSEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Madagascar Periwinkle should be sown about\\nthe beginning of January, to have fair-sized plants by the beginning of\\nMay. Sow the seed thinly, and when large enough prick off into boxes.\\nFrom these the seedlings may be shifted into 3-inch pots, from which\\nthey are transferred to the open ground. There are three kinds which\\ncome true from seed, one with rose-colored flowers, one pure white, and\\nthe third has white flowers with pink center. They are among the most\\nsatisfactory of bedding plants.\\nZINNIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Very gaudy flowering annuals of the Daisy family. The\\ntall-growing kinds have given way to the dwarf and much more showy\\nvarieties. Sow seed about the end of March and prick off into boxes of\\nrather rich soil. Harden them off in a frame before planting out.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "65\\nVase and Basket Plants*\\nWhen vases have to be filled with only one kind of plant, hardly\\nanything will be found more appropriate than the Russelias. The\\nbranches are erect in a young state, eventually becoming drooping. If\\nthe plants are put in a light, rich soil, with abundance of water\\nduring the growing period, they will be in bloom most of the time.\\nOnly one-year-old plants should be used for large vases; that is,\\nplants in 6 or 7-inch pots, as when of that size they soon become fur-\\nnished with good-sized branches. The old and well-known Russelia\\njunceais the best for the purpose, although R. sarmentosa andR. Lemoinei\\nare both good, giving a greater number of flowers, which, however, are\\nsmaller|thaD those of R. juncea. Among those plants needed for the center\\nof vases, Pandanus Veitchii and the numerous varieties of the grassy-\\nleaved species of Cordyline, such as C. australis and C. indivisa, are\\namong the best. Last year s seedlings of the Cordy lines, if they have\\nbeen liberally treated, will be large enough by the beginning of the sea-\\nson for all ordinary purposes. They stand the hot sun well. Pandanus\\nVeitchii colors well under full sunshine, but needs more water tkan the\\nCordy lines. P. Baptistii, of which much was expected as an outdoor\\nSummer plant, is rather disappointing, as its foliage is too tender for\\nexposed places. Other good things for vases and baskets, in the shape\\nof flowering and trailing plants, are the three species of Torenia, two\\npurple and one yellow, besides the so-called white variety, and Mau-\\nrandya Barclayana, all of which may be got under way from seed in a\\nshort time; Mesembryanthemum cordifolium, Germany Ivy; all the\\ntrailing Vincas and Abutilon vexillarium are indispensable. The varie-\\ngated ground Ivy will stand the sun well in exposed situations; it is\\ndwarf growing and comes in handy for planting around the edges of\\nvases and baskets, where its long hanging growths can be seen to\\nadvantage. Stock of it, kept in boxes under the cover of sash, should\\nbe cut up during the early Spring, and small pieces with roots attached\\nplaced in sandy soil in boxes, and either returned to the frame or\\nbrought into a cool house, to be started into growth previous to\\npotting.\\nSaxifraga sarmentosa Aaron s Beard is a very hardy species with\\nornamental flowers and foliage. It thrives out-of-doors all the year\\nround in positions partly shaded from the sun. By the first of March\\nfair-sized plants may be put in 3-inch pots. It is suitable for baskets,\\nvases and boxes, which do not get much sun. There is a variegated\\nform with striking foliage.\\nSenecio scandens German Ivy A few plants struck from cuttings\\nin the Fall will give growth for a large number of cuttings after the first\\nof the yean", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "66 VASE AND BASKET PLANTS.\\nOthonna crassifolia Little Pickles This plant will stand full sun-\\nshine with very little water. It is of procumbent growth with, small\\nyellow flowers. Lift a few old plants before frost, and merely lay them\\non the front of a sunny bench. A dozen or two nice little tufts may be\\npotted up from a single plant.\\nLysimachia nummularia, the Money Wort, will thrive in shade or\\nsun. There is a pretty variety with yellowish leaves.\\nIpomzea Tubiculata\u00e2\u0080\u0094 With small star-shaped leaves, throws out quan-\\ntities of hanging growths. Every bit of stem with a leaf attached will\\nroot either in Fall or Spring.\\nVinca major var. elegantissima comes in very serviceable, not only for\\nvases and baskets, but for indoor decoration. Specimens for this pur-\\npose should be in 5-inch pots, or even larger. Plants rooted early in\\nthe Fall and kept growing will, in course of time, make very long\\ngrowths. A good place for them in this condition of growth is on the\\nfront of a sunny bench, where the growths are allowed to hang over the\\nside. This plant does not show the effects of neglect as quickly as most\\nother things.\\nFor Indoor Boxes for Windows or other places where there is not\\nmuch light the following plants will be found useful, as they are almost\\nhardy, and, with ordinary care, they will last a long time in a presenta-\\nble condition: Eohdea japonica and the variegated form will stand in\\nthe coldest places. These plants, by the way, are perfectly hardy here,\\nthe foliage being but slightly browned during the coldest weather.\\nAspidistra elatior and A. e. variegata, together with the spotted leaved\\nspecies called A. punctata, while not so hardy as the Eohdea, yet they will\\nstand a good deal of cold. Of course, the plants will have to be small,\\nin 5 or 6-inch pots. Old plants broken up for this purpose and immedi-\\nately used are not to be depended upon, as the principal roots are apt to\\nget severed in the operation. Many of the New Zealand Cordylines,\\nwith narrow green leaves, can be utilized for drafty places; they will\\nstand considerable frost without hurt if they have been grown cool.\\nFarfugium grande, a broad-leaved composite with yellow spots, is\\nanother well-known plant which comes through zero weather all right.\\nNiphobolus lingua corymbifera, a tough-leaved crested Fern, can be got\\nup in quantity for use by division of the stems which grow near the\\nsurface of the soil. Lastrea prolifica, a dwarf dark green leaved species;\\nLastrea opaca, Pteris serrulata, and Adiantum Capillus- Veneris are all\\npretty hardy, as well as ornamental species of Ferns good for the\\npurpose.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "67\\nVines, Hardy and Tender*\\nADENOCALYHNA COHOSUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is one of the best tender vines\\nwhere it can be given enough head room. If planted out and otherwise\\ntreated according to its requirements, it will make growths 70 feet in\\nlength. It is closely related to the Bignonias. Flowers are bright yel-\\nlow, being borne in large racemes. It blooms in midwinter. Propagated\\nby cuttings of the ripe wood in late Summer.\\nAKEBI A QUINAT A\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although a climbing plant, and a very hand-\\nsome one, it is frequently grown to answer the same purpose as bush\\nplants of Jasminum nudiflorum. For this purpose it should be allowed\\nto ramble over low supports. For trellis work it is well adapted. Al-\\nthough a common plant we seldom, see it in fruit, which is probably\\naccounted for by the fact that the pistillate flowers come into bloom\\nbefore the staminate ones, thus preventing fertilization; besides, they\\nflower at a period when fertilization out-of-doors is a somewhat preca-\\nrious operation with vines brought from other countries. Its propaga-\\ntion is brought about from cuttings of the current year s growth, choos-\\ning wood not too thick nor yet the weakest branches. Make the cut-\\ntings with two or more leaves on them, and place together in a cool\\nbed; root them in time to be put in a cool frame for the Winter.\\nAMPELOPSIS VEITCHII and A. ROYLEI differ from each other\\nonly in that the former is the smaller of the two in leaf and fruit. A.\\nRoylei is, perhaps, the more rapid grower of the two. They are both\\nideal vines for covering walls, not only for ornamental appearance, but\\nwhat is of more importance, in warding off the rain from the walls. It\\nmay be noticed that the foliage is imbricated; that is, the lowest leaves,\\nthe blades of which hang almost perpendicularly, are covered for nearly\\nhalf of their length from the base by the ends of the leaves above; thus\\nthe water drips from one to the other instead of being absorbed by the\\nsubstance against which the vine grows. Another good reason why it\\nshould be planted much more freely is, that it keeps the sun from the\\nwalls, making quite an appreciable difference in the temperature of the\\ninterior of the dwelling. The fruit may be gathered about the begin-\\nning of November, the seeds washed clear of the pulp, and sown in a\\nframe having a southern exposure. Do not sow thickly as the cotyle-\\ndons are large, and damping off may result before the seedlings are\\ntransplanted. By the middle of May the seedlings are ready for han-\\ndling. They may either be put in small pots, singly, or three in a 3-inch\\npot, plunged in ashes in a frame, the sash put on and shaded for a few\\ndays until the young plants have taken with the soil. The Ampelopsis,\\nowing to the nature of the roots, are best transplanted out of pots. A.\\nEngelmanni, A. diversifolia and A. aconitifolia, all good kinds in their", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "68 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\nway, are treated similarly to the first-named kinds as regards propa-\\ngating.\\nANTIGNON LEPTOPUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Southern States this is one of the\\nmost satisfactory vines; even in Washington it blooms for about two\\nmonths out of doors; that is, when put out as small plants. When large\\nspecimens are planted out the period of blooming is much longer. The\\nflowers are bright pink, in very large clusters. It should be propagated\\nfrom cuttings taken in September; make the cuttings with a single leaf\\nattached, and cut below a joint. The large roots are tuberous looking,\\nenabling the old plants to be easily wintered over in a cool house.\\nARAUJA (Schubertia) GRANDIFLORA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It is seldom that we see this\\nnoble vine grown well in greenhouses, the plants being usually sickly\\nand infested with mealy bug. As a Summer vine out of- doors it makes\\nvery vigorous growth, and after midsummer it bears a profusion of\\nbloom. The flowers are not unlike those of Stephanotis floribunda, but\\nare larger and quite as sweetly scented. Cuttings make the best flower-\\ning vines. These may be taken from the ripe wood before the advent of\\ncool weather. Seeds are freely produced in large egg-shaped fruits; they\\ngerminate freely shortly after being sown.\\nARISTOLOCHIA STURTEVANTII and A. ELEGANS are easy to grow,\\nand are almost certain to produce an abundant crop of their\\nexceedingly curious flowers. A. Sturtevantii has soft growth, more so\\nthan any other species, and roots very readily from cuttings. A. elegans\\ngets hard soon after developing, and is a trifle difficult to root; but seeds\\nare produced abundantly, and the seedlings are every bit as floriferous\\nas plants raised from cuttings. Both of these kinds may be planted out\\nin Summer to cover trellis work. An intermediate house will suit them\\nin Winter. A. elegans ripens seeds in the open at Washington. Further\\nNorth the seasons are too short, unless large plantstfare taken to start\\nwith.\\nA. sipho is a native species, but far behind the tropical ones in the\\nbeauty of its flowers. Sometimes we need a vine for covering unsightly\\nstructures under the shade of trees; this is the best to be had, as it luxu-\\nriates under those conditions. It is most easily raised from seeds.\\nASPARAGUS PLUnOSUS NANUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Plants in beds requiring divid-\\ning and replanting should be attended to about the middle of July,\\nso as to make sufficient root growth to enable the plants to send up\\nstrong shoots. Keep dry for a short time before dividing. This will\\nhave a tendency to render any young roots which may be on the plant\\nless succulent, and after planting they will push out all right again.\\nSolid beds, with the idea of having them in good condition for several\\nseasons, should be carefully prepared. The ground soil should, if reten-\\ntive, be thrown out to a considerable depth, drainage, such as broken\\nbrick or stones, put in the bottom, and the soil put back with a little\\nmanure or leaf soil mixed with it. This is merely for the sub-soil. Over\\nthis prepared soil 8 inches or a foot deep should be placed, boxing the\\nsides to a height of 6 inches or so. With the crowns raised above the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 69\\nground level of the house there is little danger of over-watering. After\\nplanting, for a week or so allow the atmosphere to get humid, but not\\nenough to force the plants into undue activity. This Asparagus, which\\nis probably entitled to specific rank, instead of being a variety of A.\\nplumosus, sends out some of its stems from the horizontal root-stock\\ntraversing a considerable distance under the surface before making their\\nappearance above ground. If the terminal part of an underground stem\\nis injured before making its appearance above ground, the dormant\\nbuds develop eventually into small crowns, sending out both shoots\\nand long succulent roots. The same conditions happen sometimes after\\nthe developed shoot is severed, but in this case infrequently, as the break\\nis more apt to be above ground. The kind known as A. plumosus does\\nnot have this peculiarity, the shoots growing straight from the crowns.\\nA. Plumosus Nanus as a Pot Plant\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this capacity the plants must be\\nin a starved state, that is, without strong shoots; but with numerous\\nsmall ones 6 inches to a foot high. When once they get into a starved\\nstate it takes quite a while to get them out of it, and this is quickest\\naccomplished by splitting the plant up into very small pieces. This\\nshould only be done when it is desirable to make plants for strings. The\\nroot stocks are very close together, crowding each other and sending\\nout tiny growths. When grown in pots they seldom make tall climbing\\nshoots, and when they do show such a tendency, all that is necessary\\nto keep plants within bounds is to nip off the ends of the shoots a few\\ninches above the pot. In getting up a stock for pot plants plant them\\nout on benches, using only 3 or 4 inches of soil, planting out quite\\nr closely together; keep pinching, splitting up and replanting or potting\\nas required.\\nA Plumosus Nanus for Short Sprays\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The cutting of short growths\\nof this plant to supply green for Summer flowers, beyond the safe\\nlimit, is an evil to be guarded against. The idea should be kept in\\nmind all the time that this Asparagus, especially after the strings are\\ncut and the short bushy sprays remain, needs so much live material to\\nkeep it healthv. If the quantity of branches is out of proportion to the\\nroots and kept for any length of time in that condition, the roots must\\nsuffer; the branches subsequently thrown up put on that undesirable\\nyellow color which is worse than no Asparagus at all. Keep old plants\\npinched down until the time when it is desired to start strings, so that\\nthe bottom part will break and supply short material, which in Sum-\\nmer pays best with those growing for local trade. The plants should,\\nif anything, be kept on the dry side, but not dry enough to suffer, and\\nbe given an abundance of ventilation.\\nRaising from Seed\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Seed of Asparagus plumosus nanus, orthat which\\nis offered under the name of A. p. nanus, is not always to be depended\\nupon, unless the seed is procured from a reliable source or home grown,\\nand known to be true to name. The reason for this is that A. plumo-\\nsus is the kind which fruits most freely, and some not knowing the dif-\\nference between the two sorts and others knowing, but also appreciat-\\ning the fact that A. p. nanus is the better of the two, and that seed\\ngoing under the name of the latter is sure to command the best prices.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "70 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\nGermination is very irregular with seed sown in some soils. The best\\nmedium I have found is rough grained sand that does not pack. Cover\\nto the depth of half an inch.\\nA. tenuissimus is of a lighter green than A. plumosus and A. p.\\nnanus. If cuttings of the ripe branches are put in bottom heat they will\\nroot freely. In small potstne plants are very ornamental and useful for\\nassociating with ferns and other plants in filling pans. This Asparagus\\nused to be trained on strings, but has been superseded for this purpose\\nby A. p. nanus.\\nBIGNONIA VENUSTA is one of the most reliable of our warm green-\\nhouse climbers. It should be planted out in a box built of bricks, such\\nbox being large enough to hold several bushels of soil. The ideal way\\nto train is to a single main stem along the rafters of the greenhouse.\\nFrom this stem the growths on which the flowers appear are allowed\\nto hang downward to their full length. By judicious trimming of these\\ngrowths, and short resting periods before starting into growth, two\\ncrops of bloom may be had each year. The flowers are reddish orange\\nin color, and are produced in great profusion. Propagation is by cut-\\ntings of the ripe growths in March. The plant will bear full sunshine\\nall the year round.\\nB0UGA1NVILLEA SPECTABILIS and B. LATERITIA which is said\\nto be a variety of the former, are sometimes shy in blooming; but the\\ncause will be found in unsuitable root conditions. Planted in well\\ndrained soil and fed with liquid manure while making the flowering\\nwood, they are equally as attractive as the better known B. glabra.\\nLike the Bignonias they should be trained to long single stems, and\\nflowered from lateral growths, pruning these severely before starting\\ninto growth. Propagated freely from cuttings of the ripe wood.\\nBOUSSINGAULTIA BASELLOIDES (Madeira Vine)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In well drained\\nsunny situations, such as may be found at the south side of a wall, this\\nplant frequently stands out all the year round in Washington, D. C. It\\nis a favorite vine with a great many people. It is very readily increased\\nby taking the little tubercles which form on the vine and sowing them\\nin rows in the open, without supports. The tubers, which form under-\\nground, may also be taken, cut up into small pieces and treated in the\\nsame way. After the vines are blackened by frost, dig up and store with\\nDahlia roots.\\nBRYONIA LACINIOSA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A slender cut-leaved vine, with rather hand-\\nsome red fruit the size of a cherry, beautifully marked with white.\\nBaised from seeds, which may be sown out-of-doors end of April.\\nCHILDSIA (Hidalgoa) WERCKLEI\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native of the mountain regions\\nof Costa Bica and only recently introduced, so that but little is known\\nof its cultural requirements. It is a vine of soft growth with compound\\nleaves. The flowers are not unlike those of a single Zinnia; the color is\\nintense scarlet. Like other greenhouse vines of this family (Compositae)\\nsuch as the Mutisias, the weak growths will not produce flowers, conse-\\nquently the plants should be encouraged to make robust growth, espe-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 71\\ncially during the late Winter months, to flower in April and May. When\\nplanted out in Summer the vines make very rapid headway, but the\\nflower display is meagre. For the Southern States and California it\\nmay turn out to be a very desirable vine. With us it seems to thrive\\nbest in a rather cool house.\\nCISSUS DISCOLOR\u00e2\u0080\u0094 No other vine approaches this species in so far\\nas the beauty of its foliage is concerned. The leaves are reddish on the\\nlower surface; on the upper surface the color is bright velvety green\\nmottled with silver; stem red. It is usually grown in a warm house,\\nwhere its growth is very rapid. Cuttings of the ripened wood will root\\nat almost any period of the year. C. antarctica is a well-known win-\\ndow plant, for which purpose it is admirably suited. It is not particular\\nas to treatment.\\nCLEMATIS PANICULATA is a hardy white flowering vine, blooming\\nduring August and September. It has jumped quickly into popular\\nfavor, being one of the best hardy vines in cultivation. Seeds ripeninNo-\\nvember. Raising from seed is the best and easiest method of propagation.\\nIf sown when ripe the seed will germinate early in Spring and make fair-\\nsized plants by the following Fall; but if kept till Spring, and sown\\nthen, they will not germinate till the Fall; even then they have to be\\ncarried over in boxes in frames, and are not much in advance of the seed-\\nlings which germinate the following Spring. From this it will be seen\\nthat a year s growth is gained by Fall sowing. Like most other Clema-\\ntises it does best in deep, heavy loam well enriched with manure.\\nGrafting Large=Flowered Varieties\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Clematis of the Jackmanni and\\nLanuginosa types, that is, those having the large blue, purple, lavender\\nor white flowers, some of them, the singles, being about 8 inches across\\nand some double, are all worth attention, as they give an elegant dis-\\nplay of flowers from June all through the Summer; that is, if properly\\nattended to in the way of soil, mulching and watering. They all dislike\\nlimited root space and show it in poor-sized flowers and few of them.\\nThe varieties may be propagated from the beginning of January till the\\nbeginning of April. Lift a few roots of such species as C. ligustrifolia, C.\\npaniculata or C. viticella for tying on pieces of any of the sorts desired to\\nbe increased. Whip grafting will answer best. Tie the stock and cion\\ntogether with raffia and place in a box of chopped moss, standing the\\nbox in a propagating frame with a temperature of from 65 to 70\\ndegrees. Afterward they are gradually given air, potted on, and hard-\\nened off as they require it. Encourage them to make all the growth\\npossible before cool weather. They should be started early in the season\\nin a cool house not too much heated. With one or two flowers on they\\nare ready selling plants, and all that are sold will be advertisements for\\nnext season s supply. Another method of propagation is to take cut-\\ntings of the young wood about the middle of June, and root indoors.\\nThis is the method mostly employed in this country; but grafted stock\\nmake the strongest plants in a given space of time, owing to the\\nstronger root action.\\nThe beautiful C. coccinea is a variety of our native C. Vorna. It is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "72 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\nwell adapted for wire trellis work. There are other good forms, such\\nas Countess of York, Countess of Onslow and Duchess of Albany.\\nCLERODENDRON THOMSONS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A wonderfully floriferous vine, which\\ncan be flowered successfully in 6 and 8-inch pots. Old plants may\\nbe allowed to get in a dormant state in Autumn reduced and repotted\\nin February, but as much as possible of the old wood saved, as from\\nthis they produce flowers on short growths. Each plant will require\\nthe support of three or four stocks. Cuttings may be struck in Spring\\nand planted out during the hot months to make growth. The flower is\\nbright crimson, the calyx being large and pure white.\\nC. speciosum\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In growth this resembles the above. The flowers are\\nscarlet, and the calyx tinged with red.\\nCLITORIA TERNATEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A half-hardy annual vine, and one of the\\nvery best, making an exceedingly pleasing display when in rich soil and\\ngiven supports about 4 feet high. The flowers are dark blue, in shape\\nand size resembling those of the Sweet Pea. The seed should be started\\nindoors early. The seedlings, no matter how carefully they are tended,\\nlook as if they had a hard struggle for existence, but under the influence\\nof full sunshine they will make good plants by the middle of May, when\\nthey may be planted out for the Summer. This vine is sometimes grown\\nas a creeper, but the very attractive flowers are better seen when it is\\nallowed to climb. It is an ideal plant for growing on iron railings.\\nThere are pink, white, and double-flowered forms.\\nCOB^EA SCANDENS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 When grown indoors as a perennial this vine\\nwill attain a length of 30 feet. In this country it is principally grown\\nas an annual for outdoor use in Summer. As the seeds germinate quickly\\nand need pricking off shortly, or almost immediately after germinating,\\nowing to their large cotyledons, it will save time to put each seed in a\\n2-inch pot; fill the pots and merely press the seed in edgewise. No cov-\\nering is necessary if the seed be pressed in deeply so that only the upper\\nedge is seen when the soil is settled by watering. C. s. variegata is a\\npretty form for the greenhouse. Increased by cuttings.\\nHEDERA HELIX (English Ivy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties of this species are numer-\\nous; some have very small leaves like H. Doneraliensis, others are very\\nlarge leaved, as, for instance, H. dentata. Others again are beautifully\\nvariegated. Nearly all of the Ivies make good pot plants, and some of\\nthe varieties will develop more leaves and stems to a given size of pot\\nthan any other plant in cultivation. If the cuttings are taken from\\noutdoor plants propagation should be done in Autumn, as then the foli-\\nage is at its best, and it keeps splendidly during the Winter months on\\ngood-sized cuttings rooted in frames. The variegated kinds should be\\ngiven the protection of a frame, especially for stock purposes; and cut-\\ntings of these kinds are rooted in March. They will not root so freely\\nfrom large-sized cuttings as from more moderate-sized ones. The less\\nsun the plants get in Winter the hardier they will be, as rapid thawing\\nand freezing is injurious to the foliage. Where a supply of leaves is\\nwanted during the Winter the vines may be planted on a position slop-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 73\\ning to the north. In cold localities a light covering of fine branches\\nwill be beneficial.\\nHOYA CARNOSA is the most popular of the genus. It has large\\numbels of flesh-colored flowers. It is a popular house plant with many.\\nThere is a beautifully variegated form. For cuttings take good sized\\npieces, pot and plunge in brisk bottom heat. The young plants should,\\nif started early, be given a rather high temperature. In Summer they\\nmay be plunged in the full sun out-of-doors. An intermediate house and\\nonly a moderate supply of water will suit them in Winter.\\nHUflULUS JAPONICUS VARIEGATUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the warmer parts of the\\ncountry, at least, this vine is a hardy annual, and one of the most hand-\\nsome of those having variegated leaves. To have an early growth, the\\nseeds should be sown about the beginning of March and the seedlings\\npotted off singly when large enough. Green leaves preponderate on the\\nseedlings, gradually becoming better colored as the plants increase in\\nheight.\\nIPOMCEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Japanese Morning Glories vary much in the color of\\nthe flowers, and while some of them are undoubtedly pretty there are\\nnumerous shades which will never become popular. A year or two ago\\nout of a package of seed I had 25 distinct shades of colors. None of\\nthem approach in beauty the well-known. I. Learii or the kind known as\\nI. rubro-ccerulea. The first named is evidently a perennial without\\ntubers, and it is propagated from cuttings; the last named, from seed.\\nThe tuberous-rooted kinds need only to be treated like Cannas or\\nDahlias during the Winter. In Summer few climbers can equal them in\\nperpetual masses of bloom. Ipomcea paniculata is probably the best of\\nthe lot. Other good ones are I. scabra, 1. Hardingii, I. Horsfalliae and\\nI. insignis. The two last named are nearly] alike, but I. insignis is the\\nbest Summer bloomer. I. Michauxi, a native of the Southern States,\\nmakes an excellent outdoor vine if started early in the greenhouse.\\nUnder cultivation the large flowering variety of the native I. pandurata\\nmakes a display of bloom never seen in a wild state. As to their propa-\\ngation I. Horsfalliae and I. insignis are either rooted from cuttings taken\\nduring September, or grafted on seedling stocks of I. pandurata. The\\nother tuberous-rooted kinds are best raised from seed, which should be\\npreserved in the capsules until the beginning of February and sown in\\nboxes of chopped sphagnum, in which they germinate much sooner\\nthan in soil. Keep in a growing atmosphere, as the seedlings are prone\\nto develop tubers and go to rest shortly after the seed leaves are formed.\\nIpomcea Briggsii is one of the best flowering vines of moderate growth\\nfor the decoration of the greenhouse during the Winter months. Most\\nof the other Ipomoeas bloom during the Summer, but this one makes a\\nliberal supply of shoots during the Summer from which it blooms dur-\\ning the dull months of the year. The color of the flowers is very deep\\ncrimson. The old plants should be repotted in early Summer, using\\nlight, rich soil and giving them pots large enough to flower in. As the\\nshoots develop they should be tied around stakes, and later on, if wanted", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "74 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\nto cover pillars or rafters, these shoots can easily be untied and fastened\\nin the positions in which they are wanted to bloom.\\nIpomoea grandiflora (The Moonf lower) Plants from Autumnstruck\\ncuttings which were shifted on after the first potting, will, by the begin-\\nning of February, be throwing out a quantity of shoots which are\\nintended to be utilized for cuttings. When these shoots get a foot or\\nmore in length nip the ends out, as by doing so the remaining part will\\nripen more quickly and provide better material for single eye cuttings.\\nThe plants from these will be large enough by planting-out time. Large\\nflowering plants of the common Moonflower will often ripen considerable\\nquantities of seed; these, when gathered, are very large and rather soft,\\nbut when kept for some time they diminish in size and get very hard, so\\nmuch so that they refuse to germinate under ordinary conditions. Put\\nthem into a flat of water and stand the vessel on a warm bench for a\\nday or two, when the seeds will soften. This condition will be indicated\\nby their swelling to two or three times their normal size; they should\\nthen be sown singly in small pots, keeping the soil only slightly moist\\nto prevent rotting. The Moonflower is comparatively seldom seen. One\\nof the probable reasons is, that at the planting-out season the vines are\\nunattractive-looking, and as most people want plants in bloom when\\nthey buy, the Moonflower is overlooked. Plants should be in 4-inch pots\\nbefore planting out, as those out of smaller sized pots take too long a\\ntime to develop.\\nKADSURA JAPONICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A rather-attractive looking vine allied to the\\nMagnolias, with small yellowish white pendant flowers. It is propa-\\ngated from the ripe wood in August.\\nLAPAGERIA ROSEA and L. ALBA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Our hot Summers are not favora-\\nble for the growth of this plant under ordinary circumstances. Where a\\ncool shaded spot can be devoted to it success may follow. To flower\\nwell the Lapageria should be planted out. Propagation is best effected\\nby layering the stems. This subject is one of the choicest of cool green-\\nhouse climbers.\\nLATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS ALBUS is among the finest of Summer\\nflowering herbaceous plants. The flowers are pure white and come in\\nvery useful for making up designs. It is a comparatively scarce plant and\\nthe seeds offered by dealers are not always to be depended upon, as the\\npollen from the pink flowered one, usually to be found in gardens, seems\\nto act quicker on tne stigmas of the white variety than its own pollen.\\nIn seeding theyshould be kept apart so that there will be no danger\\nof their mixing. Sow the seeds indoors, in boxes or flats, and keep in\\ngrowth all Winter. In a temperate house the plants will only be in 3-\\ninch pots by planting-out time in the Spring. To support the vines run\\nsome stout branches in the ground around the plants, bend and tie\\ntogether at the top.\\nSweet Peas are sown at different seasons in different localities, to be\\nin bloom at or about the same time. In the vicinity of Washington the\\ncrop put in the ground during the latter half of September is usually 8\\nor 4 inches high by the beginning of December. The crop put in from", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 75\\nfour to six weeks later is usually in bloom about the same time as the\\nplants raised from seeds sown during the end of February or beginning\\nof March; but the early sown crop is in bloom from two to three weeks\\nahead of the others. Aside from early flowering nothing is gained, for\\nit cannot be said that the plants are stronger or better able to with-\\nstand warm and dry weather. In this vicinity it is impossible for the\\nplants to continue in health during the very warm weather. In more\\nNorthern latitudes the season is much longer. To have the plants in a\\nflowering state for as long a time as possible they should be mulched\\nand watered, choosing the most airy stretch of ground for their\\ncultivation. Plants for blooming indoors should be sown just as soon\\nas the weather gets a little cool. They may either be sown in their per-\\nmanent positions, or in pots, and planted out where they are to bloom.\\nThere is a very large number of varieties grown for the retail seed trade;\\nbut six varieties at the very most are quite enough for the production of\\ncut blooms.\\nSupports for Sweet Peas\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Sweet Pea vines should never be allowed\\nto tumble to one side from their own weight through lack of a suitable\\nsupport. The most natural supports are branches of trees, about 4 or\\n5 feet long, stuck in on each side of the row. The plants are provided\\nwith tendrils which cling to the small twigs of the branches. A quicker\\nmethod, the results of which are not quite so satisfactory, is to have\\nstrong sticks driven in at intervals of a few feet along the rows, with\\ntwine or wire fastened to them. Wire netting of a pretty wide mesh,\\nwhen properly adjusted, makes the best support. It is the most expen-\\nsive at first, but in the long run the cheapest, as it can be taken care of\\nto last for years. Perhaps the best method of using the wire netting is\\nto stretch it fastened to iron supports between two rows of peas, thinly\\nsown, each row about 12 or 18 inches apart.\\nLONICERA SEMPERVIRENS (Woodbine) is a most beautiful native\\nspecies; the flowers are darkredand yellow. There are several varieties;\\none has pale yellow flowers. L. caprifolium, flowers yellowish, large. L.\\nPericlymenum is the common English Honeysuckle. It is a very strong\\ngrowing vine and exceedingly fragrant. L. japonica produces flowers\\ndull red and white; very fragrant; a most profuse bloomer. L. Hal-\\nleana, the flowers of this species open pure white, changing to a dull\\nyellow; when the plants get sufficient moisture they continue blooming\\nall Summer. L. brachypoda aureo-reticulata is a weak grower if not\\nplanted in good soil. It is grown for its beautifully marked foliage,\\nwhich is netted with yellow. L. Heckrotii, a species with glaucous foli-\\nage and very handsome reddish pink flowers, blooms continuously from\\nnear midsummer. All the kinds root freely from ripe wood after mid-\\nsummer.\\nnANETTIA CORDIFOLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the handsomest of the low-growing\\nflowering vines, growing about 4 feet in a season, and covered from\\nmidsummer on with bright red tubular flowers. It is almost hardy in\\nthe District of Columbia, surviving ordinary Winters with the protection\\nof some litter thrown over the crowns. Green cuttings are not very\\neasily rooted, nor does the plant give an abundance of material for this", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "76 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\npurpose. But by root cuttings a one-year-old specimen may be made\\nthe parent of a hundred or more plants. To give large and healthy\\nroots for this purpose, the plants should be planted out early. By the\\nmiddle of October the tops are cut off, the roots lifted and put in boxes\\nof sand for a few weeks. In preparing for the root cuttings take a box,\\nin the bottom of which put some rough screenings, then 2 inches of fine\\nsoil made very firm; put the pieces of roots (about three-quarters of an\\ninch in length,) on the surface, then cover with three-quarters of an inch\\nof coarse grained sand and put in a warm house. When the growths\\nhave made two pairs of leaves put each growth in a 2-inch pot, shifting\\ninto 3-inch pots as they require it.\\nM. bicolor is apt to run too much to weedy growth during Summer,\\nespecially in the warmer parts of the country. Cuttings of the green\\nwood root quickly. Those propagated early in September make nice\\nflowering plants in 4-inch pots for Winter blooming in the cool conser-\\nvatory.\\nP^CDERIA FCETIDA Usually grown as a stove and greenhouse\\nclimber, but it is hardier than is generally supposed. We have old plants\\nwhich have stood out in the open border for over ten years. It is rather\\nan attractive-looking, but not a free-blooming vine. The leaves, or any\\npart of the plant, when bruised, emit a most offensive odor. Cuttings\\nshould be put in any time after the growths are matured.\\nPASSIFLORA INCARNATA is said to be hardy around Philadelphia.\\nIt is one of the most rapid growing species; has large whitish flowers\\nand bears seeds abundantly.\\nP. ccerulea is apt to get killed to the ground in Winter north of\\nWashington. P. Constance Elliott is a white flowered variety, seem-\\ningly hardy and more floriferous than the type. P. Imperatrice Eugenie,\\nP. Innesii, P. Lawsoniana and P. Munroi are good hybrids. Stock\\nplants will Winter if planted in a frame, the back of which is formed by\\nthe wall of a warm house. These may be propagated from cuttings of\\nripe growths any time in late Summer. P. alata and P. quadrangularis\\nare stove climbers with large, handsome flowers. P. aucubaefolia, a\\nvariety of the last named, has the foliage handsomely marked with\\nyellowish blotches.\\nPETREA VOLUBILIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A greenhouse climber of very irregular growth,\\nbearing in March and April long racemes of very showy purple flowers.\\nThe calyces are only a few shades lighter in color than the corollas.\\nThis plant should be in every greenhouse collection. It is very suitable\\nfor training up rafters. Cuttings of the dormant wood will root in heat;\\nthe best time to do the worn is just before the plants start into growth.\\nPUERARIA THUNBERGIANA has for several years been distributed\\nthroughout the country under the name of Dolichos japonicus. It is a\\nhardy, trifoliate-leaved vine, having inconspicuous purplish pea-shaped\\nflowers, which are seldom produced except on the old wood of well-\\nestablished plants. The flowers amount to but little, however; in fact,\\nno one would grow the vine on account of the flower display. It is the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 77\\nrapidity with which the vine will cover space which has made it a favor-\\nite with those who have given it a trial. It is, without doubt, the most\\nrapid growing hardy vine in cultivation, and is useful either for cover-\\ning the ground, for trellis work, and especially for hiding unsightly\\nstructures. Propagation is brought about by cuttings. They should\\noe put in by the end of August, to enable the plants to make a little\\nheadway so as to stand over Winter safely. The leaves, being large\\nand soft, should be laid flat on the sand without being shortened back\\nin any way, and allowing only about 3 inches of stem with each leaf.\\nRoots are produced from the under part of the stem a short distance\\nfrom where the leaf joins. It seldom happens that cuttings root in the\\nordinary way, that is, from the cut part of the stem, so that they are\\nready for potting in a few days after being put in the sand. Good\\nplants may be had in a short time by layering at this period, keeping\\nthe ground moist during the operation.\\nSENECIO SCANDENS (German Ivy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A useful soft growing vine with\\nleaves the shape of the English Ivy (Hedera). Propagate a few plants\\nin the Autumn, and from these a great number of cuttings may be taken\\noff early in Spring. The plants are principally used for growing over\\nthe sides of baskets, vases, and also for twining to supports.\\nSMIL AX (Myrsiphyllum asparagoides)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Old beds of Smilax grown\\nyear after year are rather unsatisfactory, the growths being either too\\nirregular or weak. The plan which insures a regular growth and allows\\nthe bed in which it is grown to be used for other purposes during a por-\\ntion of the year, is to raise the plants annually from seed. This should\\nbe sown during February, in a warm house. Put the seedlings in thumb\\npots when large enough, shift to 3-inch pots and plant out from this\\nsize after midsummer. The plants will be benefited by a warm atmos-\\nphere from the seedling stage until ready for cutting.\\nSOLANUM WENDLANDII\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Southern States this should prove\\na desirable garden vine. The flowers are arranged in cymes from 6 to\\n10 inches across (bright lilac blue) on the ends of the hanging branches.\\nIn this latitude the seasons are too short for small plants to make much\\nof a floral display in the open. As a greenhouse climber, however, it\\nought to have a place where sufficient room can be devoted to it. Cut-\\ntings should be made from the short lateral growths, taken about the\\nend of September.\\nSTIGriAPHYLLON CILIATUM (Butterfly Vine)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The flowers of this\\nplant are not unlike those of some species of Oncidiums, both in form\\nand color. It is one of our best medium-sized vines for trellis work. For\\npot culture it is of little service, and only thrives in the greenhouse when\\nplanted out. September is the best month for propagation. On out-\\ndoor plants much of the wood is useless for this purpose, being thin and\\nsoft. Choose the growths which were made early in the season; a heel\\nor a joint is not necessary. Root them in bottom heat, potting in 2-inch\\npots, and afterward in 3-inch pots, in which they will pass the Winter.\\nTECOMA GRANDIFLORA differs from our native T.radicans in having\\nvery much larger flowers. It makes a very showy vine when in bloom", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "78 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.\\nlate in Summer. A good plan to show off this vine to advantage is to\\ngrow it against a stout support, made of iron or wood, several feet\\nhigh, and when it gets to the toj encourage it to become bushy by fre-\\nquent pinching. Propagation is sometimes attempted from portions of\\nthe roots cut into small pieces, but unless certain that the plant is on its\\nown roots this is a dangerous practice and has resulted in much disap-\\npointment, as the resulting plants may turn out to be nothing but the\\nnative T. radicans, on which T. grandiflora is frequently grafted. After\\nthese root cuttings make considerable growth it is quite a difficult mat-\\nter to tell whether they are T. grandiflora or the native species, so\\nclosely does the foliage of the two species resemble each other. Those\\non roots of T. radicans make plants quicker than from root-cuttings, or\\nfrom cuttings of the green or dormant wood. Cuttings of the branches\\nare a trifle difficult to manage at any time, but the ripened growths of\\nyoung plants will give the best results, as then the wood is not nearly\\nso thick and pithy as in old specimens.\\nTHUNBERGIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This genus includes some very desirable greenhouse\\nclimbers, and at least one species, with several varieties, useful for vases,\\nbaskets, and as a vine of moderate growth for the mixed border. This\\nis T. alata. Seeds will germinate outside, but to produce early effects\\nthey may be sown indoors early in the season and hardened off with\\nother soft wooded plants. The best greenhouse species are: T. laurifo-\\nlia, white and blue flowered; T. fragrans, pure white, and T. mysoren-\\nsis, purple and yellow. The perennial species may be raised from seeds,\\nbut plants obtained in this way are apt to have a weedy growth and\\nturn out to be shy in blooming. Cuttings put in about February will\\nfurnish the finest flowering plants.\\nVITIS HETEROPHYIXA VARIEOATA is a vine of straggling growth,\\nwith very handsome colored foliage. It may be planted with English or\\nBoston Ivies to break the monotony of a large expanse of green. The\\nvariegated form comes true from seed it should be treated in the same\\nmanner as seeds of Ampelopsis. The fruit of Vitis heterophylla is re-\\nmarkable in being green, creamy white and violet blue at different stages\\nof growth.\\nWISTARIA CHINENSIS flowers before the leaves are fully expanded.\\nOld and floriferous plants have a gorgeous appearance when in full\\nbloom. It may be grown as a standard trained to a stout post sunk\\nin the ground, or as a vine for arbors, etc. There are several varieties\\nof this species: W. c. flore-pleno having double flowers, W. c. macrobo-\\ntrys, a variety with very long and fight-colored racemes. W. frutescens\\nis a native species, flowering later than the Chinese plant. Propagation\\nis effected in various ways. The plants, as a rule, set seed freely, but the\\nseedlings are apt to turn out shy bloomers. Seedlings of W. frutes-\\ncens may be used as stocks on which to graft W. chinensis and its\\nforms. The operation should be performed while the plants are dor-\\nmant in March or April. The long growths may also be layered in mid-\\nsummer, allowing them to remain till well established.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "79\\nBulbous Plants,\\nACHIHENES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The usual method of cultivation is to start the tuber-\\ncles from the end of February till the end of April, to give a succession\\nof bloom. When the plants have made 2 inches of growth they are\\nplaced one by one in a wide shallow pan about 2 inches apart each way,\\neachgrowth being staked before plants show bloom. This method means\\na great amount of labor. I prefer starting the tubercles in their last\\nseason s flowering pans; after making a little headway divide into three\\nor more equal parts and put into their flowering pans without supports.\\nThe specimens are not so symmetrical as those which are staked, but\\nthey give a satisfactory quantity of bloom and are most useful for the\\nconservatory during the Summer months.\\nFor growing in suspended baskets in the greenhouse the older kinds\\nare well suited. Use wire baskets, and with started plants build them\\nin from the bottom upwards so that the sides will be clothed with them.\\nThe Achimenes do not need a very warm place for storage. During\\ntheir resting season clip off the stems to within an inch or two of the\\npot instead of wrenching them out, as the tubercles are easily torn out\\nwith them. Stand the receptacles on their sides in a dry part of a cold\\nhouse. No water will be required till Spring.\\nAMARYLLIS (Hippeastrum)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These beautiful plants are not as much\\ngrown as their merits deserve; this is partly because the finer kinds are\\nsomewhat expensive, especially when flowering bulbs are purchased.\\nWith a few good sorts to start with they may be increased, and even\\nnew varieties raised much more rapidly in America than in Europe, as\\nour Summers are very favorable to their rapid growth and increase by\\noffsets. Seeds are produced quite freely, and from this method of prop-\\nagation flowering plants are raised with little trouble. Most of the\\nvery numerous hybrids now in cultivation are the progeny of A. vittata\\nand A. Ackermanni. There are two methods of culture\u00e2\u0080\u0094 growing in\\npots all the year round, and growing them during Summer planted out\\nin the open, lifting and potting in the Fall. I much prefer the first\\nmethod for the production of the largest sized blooms. Few flowers\\nare more attractive than those of the Amaryllis; they are borne in\\numbels on stout scapes well above the foliage. The colors are princi-\\npally crimson, blood red and white, some of the varieties being beauti-\\nfully striped and mottled. Their season of blooming is generally from\\nJanuary to May. About the beginning of the year the pot-grown bulbs\\nwhich are dormant should be removed from the pots and repotted in\\ngood, rich compost; at first water only to settle the soil, gradually\\nincreasing the supply. Some bulbs will show flowers early; these, if\\nwanted in bloom quickly, will be forced along with a minimum tempera-\\nture of 60 degreeg, By giving too high a temperature the foliage is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "80 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nweakened, and it must be borne in mind that the plants make their prin-\\ncipal growth for the season after the flowers are past, so that too early\\nforcing is apt to endanger the health of the bulb. After blooming, the\\npot plants should be kept in an open frame till the end of September,\\nwith some loose material, such as stable litter, between the pots to pre-\\nvent a too rapid evaporation of moisture; feed them frequently with\\nliquid manure. A deeo frame heated so as to exclude frost will be found\\nthe best place for the pot plants during the resting season. By the end\\nof May bulbs may be planted out-of-doors. A border sloping to the\\nsouth should be chosen. Immediately after planting give a heavy\\nmulching of manure, and to insure continuous growth keep them well\\nwatered during dry spells, otherwise, when the time comes for lifting\\nthe plants, some will be at rest, others in full vigor of growth. In the\\nlatter case the transfer to the flower pot cannot be effected without\\ndetriment to the bulbs; the roots are larg$, preventing a suitable quan-\\ntity of soil being given while using a pot within a reasonable size;\\nRaising Plants from Seeds\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The seed will mature on pot-grown\\nplants about the end of July. Sow as soon as gathered. The seeds do\\nnot require much covering, and ought to be kept in a warm atmosphere,\\nnot only while germinating, but until the plants are at least a year old,\\nduring which time they should be kept in a growing state.\\nPropagation by Offsets These may be separated from the pot plants\\nduring the operation of potting, or taken from the old bulbs when lift-\\ning in the open border in Autumn. In the latter case they may be stored\\nfor the Winter in boxes of sandy soil, and either potted off in Spring or\\nplanted out- with the larger bulb.\\nAMORPHOPHALLUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Useful for sub-tropical bedding, owing to their\\nvery handsome leaves; those of A. Eivieri, the species commonly met\\nwith in cultivation, being between 4 and 5 feet across. The petioles\\nare necessarily stout and beautifully marbled with creamy white. The\\nleaves are very much divided. In early Spring the flowers are produced\\nbefore the leaves; they have such an offensive odor that unless seeds are\\nwanted they should be cut off before developing. Propagation is from\\noffsets and seeds. The large tubers are wintered in a manner similar to\\nthose of the fancy-leaved Caladiums.\\nANEHONE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The tuberous rooted species known as A. coronaria, A.\\nfulgens, and A. hortensis are all natives of Southern Europe. When planted\\npermanently the soil should be open and well drained, and if it is apt to\\nbake in Spring give a top-dressing of leaf soil or stable manure thor-\\noughly rotted. This will keep the surface soft and enable the growths to\\nbreak through easily. The above species are sometimes grown in pots;\\nthey may be planted in September or October, kept in a cold frame and\\nflowered in Spring. A. fulgens is the most useful for this purpose. The\\nmany varieties are sold cheaply by dealers in bulbs.\\nBULBOUS PLANTS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This term is generally applied indiscriminately\\nto plants having thickened subterranean stems, such as Crocus and\\nGladiolus, including true bulbs, such as those of Lilium, Hyacinth and\\nAllium. A true bulb is simply a resting bud composed of leaf scales, as", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 81\\nin Lilium, or partly formed by the bases of the leaves of the previous\\nseason s growth, as in the Hyacinth and Onion. A Corm differs from a\\nbulb in having the interior part solid; examples, Crocus and Gladiolus.\\nA tuber is a swollen underground stem provided with latent buds, as in\\nthe Potato. The thickened tuber-like roots of the Dahlia are simply\\nreservoirs of nutriment, and are known as tubercles. Terrestrial\\nOrchids supply numerous other examples.\\nCALADIUM, FANCY=LEAVED\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are several species and a great\\nmany forms of these gaudy foliage plants. They are principally used to\\nfill the benches of the conservatory during the Summer months, when\\nmost of the usual greenhouse plants are occupying their Summer quar-\\nters out of doors. They are also used in bedding, and if the higher\\ncolored forms are avoided, choosing those in which green and red pre-\\ndominate in the leaves, they will succeed well even in the full sun. A\\ngoodly quantity of bone meal worked into the soil before planting will\\nmake strong and well-colored leaves.\\nStarting Tubers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The first lot of tubers should be started about the\\nmiddle of February for conservatory decoration. They should first be\\ngone over carefully, and any that show signs of rotting at the bottoms\\nshould have the decayed part cut or scraped off and dusted with pow-\\ndered charcoal. The under part of a Caladium tuber, after it has\\nreached a certain size, is more or less in a state of decay, but sometimes\\nthrough being kept too wet, too dry, or in a too cold place, this natural\\ndecay is hastened by rot, which, if not checked, will kill the tuber in a\\nshort time. The white succulent roots start from the top part or neck\\nof the tuber, near the base of the leaf-bud, so this part must be .covered\\nand kept in an evenly moist state to start them into growth. I find the\\nbest conditions under which to start growth to be as follows: Take a\\nbox 3 inches deep, put half an inch of moss in the bottom; put in the\\nbulbs close enough together so that at least half the space will be occu-\\npied, then cover with moss to the top of the box. Have the moss\\nchopped so that the particles will fall easily from the roots previous to\\npotting. This operation may best be done when the roots are from one\\nto two inches long. A good soil should consist largely of leaf mould. As\\nthe tubers send out their roots shortly after putting in the moss they\\nshould be transferred to pots before the roots get too long, else they\\nwill be injured in the operation. Pots should not be used of a size larger\\nthan will hold the tubers and roots comfortably, without danger of\\nbeing bruised. The subsequent shifts should have a greater quantity of\\nloam with rooted cow manure added. For specimen plants do not cut\\nup the tubers, plant them whole. At the end of the season, as a rule\\nthey will have made quite as many easily detached tubers as if they had\\nbeen cut up in the Spring.\\nC. argyrites\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The small-leaved kind called C. argyrites will be all the\\nmore useful if it be not started too early, as it is most needed late in the\\nyear. It keeps well among sawdust in paper bags. The tubers are so\\nsmall that several hundred can be put in a small bag. The tubers can\\nbe increased at almost any time, even when the plants are in full growth,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "82 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nbut preferably about the starting time, either before or after. They are\\ncut up into pieces, each one with a bud or growth to it.\\nPreparations for Lifting Tubers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 By the beginning of October, and\\nearlier in some localities, fancy-leaved Caladiums will soon begin to lose\\ntheir bright colors, owing to the low temperature. Before this occurs\\ngo over them and renew the names, using fresh labels. If they are with-\\nout names go over them all the same, jotting down the colors of the\\nleaves, and whether certain kinds should be used again and so forth.\\nAll this is veVy necessary with the Caladium, as it is a coming bedding\\nplant. I have not yet come to the conclusion whether it is best to plant\\nthem in the dormant state like Gladioli, or to start indoors before\\nplanting. I used to favor the latter method, mainly because there was\\nsomething to look at as soon as planted. Some beds which 1 saw lately,\\nowing to the splendid growth made from dormant tubers at planting\\ntime, spoke volumes in favor of this method. It certainly saves the\\ntime given to the starting and potting indoors. But again, more money\\ncan be got out of a plant, with its beautiful leaves, started in a 5-inch\\npot than can be got for a mere tuber that has no more beauty to it\\nthan a potato.\\nStoring the Tubers Outdoor plants as they lose their leaves should\\nbe dug up and laid under the bench of a house where the sun won t get\\nat them. Give water occasionally to both roots and foliage until the\\nlatter gradually decays. After the leaves are cut off and the tubers are\\ndry, put as many as will go into a fair-sized pot, then run in dry sand\\nand stand the pots in the warmest part of the house, where they will be\\nfree from drip. They should be kept in a temperature not lower than\\n60 degrees during the Winter! Plants in pots will soon begin to look\\nseedy unless they be kept in a warm, close house. To rest them,\\nwithhold water gradually, and when the leaves are nearly gone, remove\\nthe pots to the driest and warmest part of the house, placing the pots\\non their sides. If room cannot be spared the plants may be knocked out\\nof the pots and stored like the outdoor collection.\\nPropagation Many of the kinds form small tubers on the sides of the\\nlarge ones; these are easily detached and grown on. Again, many sorts,\\nespecially some of the finer and recently introduced varieties, do not\\nmake these small tubers, or not in large enough numbers to be of much\\nservice; but it will usually be found that the large tubers have one or\\nmore eyes generally at the sides. These, if taken off with a piece of the\\ntuber attached, either before or after starting, will make small plants\\nthe same season. In separating from the parent tuber dust the cut sur-\\nfaces with powdered charcoal, to prevent decay. If taken off before the\\ntubers are started, put the pieces in warm sand to hasten the formation\\nof roots.\\nCaladium odoratum or Colocasia odorata is used much in the same\\nmanner for outdoor decoration in Summer as the well-known Colocasia\\nesculenta. They are known from each other by C. odorata having thick\\nfleshy stems above ground and the leaves pointing upward, or at\\nleast growing with the leaf blade horizontal, while C. esculenta has\\ndrooping leaf blades, and has no stem above ground. They are both", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 83\\nwintered in the same way, that is, in a dormant condition, in a warm\\nplace, although C. odorata can easily be kept over Winter with the roots\\nof the previous Summer preserved and the foliage green by storing the\\nstems thickly together in boxes, keeping on the youngest leaves when\\nlifted and storing plants in a fairly warm house, giving water occasion-\\nally. Well furnished plants can be had quicker from the stems of this\\nthan from those of C. esculenta. The propagation of C. odorata should\\nbe attended to during February. Cut up the long stems into pieces with\\na dormant eye to each piece, dust them over with powdered charcoal to\\nprevent decay, and lay them in the sun to dry for a day or so; after-\\nward put in moss, not too wet, in a warm frame, where they will sprout\\nmuch in the same manner as stove Alocasias. Pot as soon as the roots\\nare sufficient in number.\\nCONVALLARIA HAJALIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Lily of the Valley pips used in this country\\nfor forcing purposes are obtained from abroad. There is, however, no\\nreason why they should not be produced as good in the United States.\\nLily of the Valley thrives in some parts very luxuriantly, when grown in\\nthe shade of small trees with an annual top-dressing of decayed leaves or\\nold manure. The pips are received during the early part of November,\\nand the florist who can raise bloom successfully from these before Christ-\\nmas does not need to be told anything of the plant s culture. At that\\ntime, however, good roots are obtainable from the previous year s sup-\\nply, kept in cold storage. Or home-grown material may, in time, be\\nused, as then preparation could be made earlier with greater certainty\\nof success in early blooming. Lily of the Valley is a decidedly artificial-\\nlooking flower when unaccompanied by its foliage. A stock of small\\npips should be put in the forcing house and given plenty time to develop\\nthe foliage for occasions when wanted. The material in which to place\\nthe pips may be pure sand, as no new roots are made during the forcing\\nperiod. When taken from a temperature near the freezing point, increase\\nit very gradually until a bottom heat of from 80 to 85 degrees is given\\nfor the actual work of forcing. The pips may be kept almost in the\\ndark at first, gradually giving light as they develop; but keep them\\nshaded from the sun. In storing pips for the Winter keep them in a\\nframe, with a northern exposure, so that rapid thawing and freezing\\nmay be obviated. There are double flowered and variegated-leaved\\nforms; all of them are desirable for half-shaded places in the open border.\\nCRINUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The tender species are not much grown indoors, but there\\nare several which are useful for the hardy border. One which gives\\nmuch satisfaction in Washington, and which is perfectly hardy, is named\\nC. longifolium. The flowers are tinged with rose. There is a white-\\nflowered form. Nearly every flower will set seeds which are very large\\nand irregular in shape. They should be sown as soon as ripe, as after\\nfalling to the ground a little moisture will cause them to germinate in a\\nfew days. Sow the seeds 2 inches apart in a seed pan; keep in a frame,\\nand plant out without potting off in Spring.\\nC. Powellii is a hybrid between C. longifolium and C. Moorei. It\\nthrives in Washington with slight protection in Winter. C. Moorei is\\nalso hardy when planted in warm soils and slightly protected. In large", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "84 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nconservatories C. giganteum should be grown if only for the foliage.\\nThe leaves are several feet ia length, fully 6 inches broad in adult speci-\\nmens, and of a bright green color. The flowers are pure white and\\nsweet smelling, produced at irregular intervals.\\nEUCHARIS AMAZONICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Amazon Lilies have long been popular\\nstove bulbous plants, their large, pure whiteflowers making them favor-\\nites wherever grown. To the florist who does a general trade this is a\\npaying plant when properly grown in moderately large quantities.\\nTheir culture seems a trifle difficult to many, but this idea has arisen\\nthrough trying to grow them under adverse conditions. They are plants\\nwhich delight in a warm, moist atmosphere, shaded from strong sun-\\nshine. The temperature should never fall below 60 degrees, and it\\nshould only be allowed to get in the neighborhood of that figure during\\ncold weather. The plants cannot be properly grown after the manner\\nof most bulbous subjects which florists handle, such as Liliums, Richar-\\ndias, Gladioli, Tulips, etc.; that is, potting them up at a certain time\\nto have them in bloom at a given date. Their culture has not been\\nbrought down to such a fine point because their nature does not permit\\nof it. They can be grown either with or without a short period of rest\\nin the Fall months. I prefer to keep them growing all the time; but to\\ndo this successfully the roots must have close attention. From the\\nnature of the compost in which they grow it will become sodden if extra\\nprecautions are not taken in the way of providing good drainage, also\\nin mixing with the soil a goodly quantity of broken charcoal to keep\\nthe mass porous. The principal ingredients should consist of loam two\\nparts, leaf mould one, a fourth to consist of rough sand and well-rotted\\ncow manure. There are three kinds in general cultivation E. grandi-\\nflora, E. Candida and E. Sanderiana. The first is the best known of the\\nthree, and the most profitable to grow, as the individual flowers are\\nlarger and more of them are produced on a stalk. They are grown in\\npots, tubs, or on benches. 1 prefer the first two methods, as the plants\\ncan be more easily handled than when on benches. A good-sized clump\\ncan be kept in a 10 or 12-inch pot for a good many years by periodical\\nexaminations of the drainage, the decomposed soil removed from\\naround the ball with the aid of the hose, and a mixture of loam and\\nbone meal dusted over it. Put back in the pot and give a good top-\\ndressing. Clumps treated in this way have flowered with me three and\\nfour times in a year regularly for 12 years.\\nFORCING BULBS, such as Tulips, Hyacinths (Roman) and Narcissus,\\nare put in shallow boxes for forcing. The bulbs are inserted quite close\\ntogether, if of the poorer grades; but if they are the largest sizes a little\\nmore room should be allowed for the development of the flowers. The\\nsoil used is generally old material from benches in which Roses or Car-\\nnations have been growing. In preparing bulbs for forcing the princi-\\npal point to be borne in mind is that they must make roots before being\\nput in heat. A place should be set apart for the boxes, where they may\\nbe covered with about 8 inches of sifted ashes. On the approach of\\nfreezing weather the ashes may be kept in a condition so that the boxes\\nmay be removed when wanted, by covering with rough stable litter; or,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 85\\nwhen grown in large quantities, a bulb house should be provided. In\\nthis structure light should be excluded and the roof thick enough to\\nkeep out frost. In a well-regulated house the bulbs remain in fine con-\\ndition. They may be kept almost dormant for several weeks and be\\nforced into bloom in less time than those from the open ground. Paper\\nWhite Narcissus and Roman Hyacinths may easily be had in bloom in\\nNovember, and Due Van Thol Tulips by Christmas; but to insure these\\nresults early rooting must be looked after.\\nROHAN HYACINTHS IN PANS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Roman Hyacinths are usually grown\\nin boxes, and when about to flower, or even when in bloom, they are\\ntaken out of the box and placed in shallow pans or pots, new soil added\\nand perhaps covered with fern moss before being exposed for sale. This\\nmethod does not turnout satisfactorily to the buyer, the flowers lasting\\nbut for a short period. By employing the shallow flats in common use\\nfor Ferns, Roman Hyacinths may be grown to even greater perfection in\\nsphagnum moss than where soil is used. A little well-rotted manure\\namong the moss does good. Fill up to near the brim with moss, place\\nthe bulbs on this as thick as they will go, if the receptacle is small; give\\nmore room, if large; fill in intervening spaces with moss, saturate the\\nmoss, and to make roots, keep in a dark, cool place. As soon as a suffi-\\ncient quantity of roots are made bulbs are forced into flower in a few\\ndays and come in very handily about Christmas, when other flowering\\nplants are scarce. While making roots they should occupy a cool frame,\\nand be covered with damp leaves.\\nOutdoor Bulbs\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Hyacinth and Tulip bulbs flowered out-of-doors\\nmay be made to last more than one season if the bulbs are given a little\\ncare. By the end of May, when the bulbs have to be lifted to make room\\nfor Summer plants, the foliage will indicate maturity by turning yellow.\\nAfter lifting the bulbs should not be allowed to lie around with the old\\nleaves rotting over them, sometimes wet, at other times dry, according\\nto the weather. Spread them out on boards in an airy shed, so that\\nthey may have a chance to get plump and dry; after which they should\\nbe cleaned, stored, and when the time arrives replanted for outdoor\\nornamentation. Low-growing hardy Spring bulbs, such as Galanthus\\n(Snow T drop), Crocus, |Scilla prcecox, Tecophilaea cyaneo-crocea, Triteleia\\nuniflora, Puschkinia and Chionodoxa, should be planted as soon as they\\nare procured from the dealers. If put in late they bloom late and their\\nfoliage does not get time to ripen before the advent of real warm\\nweather, and the bulb for the following season is next to useless. None\\nof the latter is much used by florists for pot culture. In planting out\\nthey should, if possible, be given permanent positions. Sometimes Fall\\nand Winter weather is favorable to premature growth of the tops, and\\nbecause of this they should be protected from rapid thawing and freez-\\ning by a covering of an inch or two of half-decayed leaves or manure\\nput on after freezing weather arrives.\\nFREESIAS which are wanted to bloom by the end of the year should\\nbe potted or boxed as soon as they can be procured from the dealers.\\nPlunge the pots in ashes, in a frame, where strong sunshine won t keep\\nthe surface of the soil too warm and dry. They must not be covered", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "86 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nover as other bulbs are after potting, as the leaves are thin and tender\\nand must develop to a considerable extent before the flower stems make\\ntheir appearance.\\nGLADIOLUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Bulbs of these used to be imported; they are now-\\ngrown in great quantities in this country. Most of the kinds grown are\\nof hybrid origin, and not a few of them have originated in America.\\nWith florists the plants are cultivated for the sake of the flowers. The first\\ncrop is usually grown indoors by planting the bulbs during January or\\nFebruary. They are usually planted among Carnations, the long nar-\\nrow leaves of the Gladiolus giving but little shade. For outdoor crops\\nthey may be planted in batches from April onward. To have the\\nbulbs in good condition for use the following year the ground should be\\nwell mulched as soon as the grow ths are well above ground. Cultivat-\\ning is then not necessary and the weeds likely to smother the plants\\nmay be removed by hand.\\nGLORIOSA SUPERBA and G. PLANTII are ornamental flowered lilia-\\nceous plants, very suitable for our hot Summers. The plants have a\\nvine-like growth and must be supported by sticks. They are servicea-\\nble for the embellishment of greenhouses during Summer. In the District\\nof Columbia they do well out-of- doors. To raise bulbs sow a few seeds\\nin a 6-inch pot and allow them to remain in their seed pots for the Sum-\\nmer, gradually drying off as the foliage turns yellow. Store with Glox-\\ninias during the Winter. Each plant may be potted off singly the fol-\\nlowing Spring.\\nH 6MANTHUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A genus principally of South African bulbous plants;\\nthey are all of easy culture. Those which annually lose their foliage\\nproduce their beautiful flowers before the new leaves make their appear-\\nance. To develop the foliage the plants may be treated much in the\\nsame way as Amaryllis; that is, planted out in a sunny border, mulched\\nwith half-rotted manure and given water during dry weather. They\\nare good plants, but only useful for general collections.\\nIRIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some of the tuberous rooted species are very early in bloom-\\ning, and only need a short term in the greenhouse to bring them into\\nflower after the end of January. I. filifolia and I. Histrio are two of the\\nbest. The tubers should be procured as early as possible, and put in\\nshallow boxes to root. The surfaces should be covered while in the\\nframe with a thin layer of sphagnum moss. I. reticulata, a species\\nwhich blooms in the open border, very often before the snow is gone, is\\nvaluable for forcing in 5-inch pots. The flowers are dwarf and not very\\nlarge; the foliage is of a grassy nature. From four to six tubers should\\nbe put in each pot. The flowers of this species, which are deep purple,\\nhave a fragrance much resembling that of the common Violet. There\\nis a lighter colored form called I. r. Krelagei; this, however, has no\\nfragrance.\\nLACHEN ALIAS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 By the 1st of August Lachenalia bulbs should be\\nknocked out of the pots, the sizes sorted and the largest put, say four\\ntogether, in a 5-inch pot, and plunged for the time being among ashes in\\na frame. The smaller bulbs should be potted or boxed for growing on.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 87\\nThese bulbs are not common and should be more grown, not for cut-\\nting, as the flowers are not suitable for this purpose, but for pot plants.\\nThe leaves, even by themselves, are very attractive, being broad, rich\\ngreen, and spotted with brown. The flowers are greenish red and yel-\\nlow, arranged in spikes. Small bulbs should always be saved and\\ngrown on, as they increase in size quickly under cultivation.\\nLILIUM Many species and varieties of Liliums are grown for the\\nornamentation of the border in Summer and Autumn. As a rule, they\\nprefer light and well-manured soil, and a position partially shaded from\\nthe sun. To lessen the necessity of frequent watering the plants should\\nbe well mulched after the growths are a few inches high. The species\\nused so much for forcing in pots is known as L. longiflorum, a native of\\nChina and Japan. There are at least two kinds; the best known\\nand quickest in blooming being L. Harrisii, said to have come originally\\nfrom Japan, but largely grown in Bermuda, whence the bulbs are\\nobtained. The bulbs should be potted as soon as procurable, and\\nplunged in a frame with a bottom of sifted cinders; the plunging mate-\\nrial should be cocoanut fiber, leaf soil, or thoroughly-rotted hotbed\\nmaterial. This precaution works well in maintaining an equal state of\\nmoisture in the pots without the necessity of frequent waterings. To\\nprevent the sun drying the surface of the soil enough covering of loose\\nstable litter should be given. Eemove the plants indoors on the\\napproach of severe weather. For early forcing the pots may be placed\\ndirectly on the bench of a cool greenhouse, and precautions taken to\\nkeep the soil in an equably moist state, avoiding either extreme. These\\nbulbs should also be covered with some light material to prevent bak-\\ning. The pots used should be small enough, so as to provide for a shift\\ninto 6 and 7-inch sizes as the plants require it. Much better results are\\nthus obtained, because roots are formed on the stem of the Lily above\\nthe bulb, and often above the soil, when they are planted directly into\\ntheir flowering pots, and especially when they are planted with the tops\\nof the bulbs level with the surface of the soil. So it will be seen that a\\nshift given after the plants have made considerable headway will work\\nadvantageously in supplying new rooting material, not only for the\\nroots already formed in the soil, but for those forming on the stem\\nabove it. In potting put one large piece of broken pot, concave side\\ndown, over the hole in the bottom, and over this some half-decayed\\nleaves, not moss, as the latter retains too much moisture at the bottom\\nof the pot; ram the soil moderately firm. The soil should have good,\\nfibry loam, enriched to about one-fifth of its bulk with well-rotted stable\\nmanure; this, with the addition of some broken-up charcoal, is as much\\nfor the purpose of keeping the soil open as for feeding. The Aphis is one\\nof the worst enemies of the Lily when grown indoors, and the condi-\\ntions favorable to its increase should be guarded against\u00e2\u0080\u0094 keeping the\\nplants in perfect health is the best preventive measure. Some of the\\nthings to be obviated are sudden changes in temperature, chilly\\ndrafts, soil too wet or too dry. Fumigating or vaporizing with\\ntobacco must frequently be resorted to whenever the Aphis makes its\\nappearance.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "88 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nPreparing Bulbs for Potting\u00e2\u0080\u0094 If as is frequently the case, the bulbs on\\narrival are a trifle shrivelled, do not pot them immediately, as they are\\napt to get a set-back by so doing. The treatment they get should be\\ndirected to restore the bulb as soon as possible to that condition in\\nwhich it was when taken from the soil. This can be done in the follow-\\ning manner much more quickly and with better results than when potted\\nimmediately into soil. A cool, moist propagating house is an ideal\\nplace for the operation. Place the bulbs as close together as they will\\ngo in the moderately wet sand. They may be either covered with sand\\nfor a day or two, without wetting, or covered with papers during the\\ndriest and hottest part of the day, until they get plump and fresh-look-\\ning, taking care that they be potted just before the roots break through,\\nfor if potting be done after the roots make their appearance more harm\\nthan good will result. Soil should be used which contains enough mois-\\nture, so that on first watering it will not be necessary to give a very\\nlarge dose. The pots used should be large enough to accommodate the\\nbulb and no more. A later shifting should be given as the plants require\\nit. A mass of roots will be developed just above the pot when consider-\\nable growth has been made; these when covered with soil in the second\\npotting will be found to be valuable feeding roots.\\nL. Speciosum\u00e2\u0080\u0094 At the season when Roses and Carnations are\\nscarce, both in and out of the greenhouse, a grand substitute may be\\nfound in the Japanese lily, Lilium speciosum. It is one of the best, if\\nnot the very best, so far as graceful structure of flower is concerned,\\nbeing far ahead of the popular variety of L. longiflorum in this respect.\\nL. speciosum was introduced from Japan over 60 years ago; it was\\nthen erroneously called Lilium lancifolium, a name which still sticks to\\nit in many places. It may be stated for guidance in the cultivation of\\nthis Lily that it is perfectly hardy here in well-drained light soil, that\\nis, on raised rock-work; but unless the bulbs are lifted at intervals of\\ntwo years and immediately replanted in freshly worked soil, with\\nmanure added, they get smaller and smaller, ultimately dying from\\nstarvation. For pot cultivation and to bloom early in Summer Lilium\\nspeciosum it is one of the easiest to manage, but less trouble will\\nbe experienced by planting out in raised beds, giving the necessary\\nprotection from severe and late frosts in localities where those con-\\nditions exist. The species is extremely variable in form and color of\\nflower, color of stems, foliage, buds, and even in the anthers. Among\\nthe whites, L. s. Krsetzeri, imported direct from Japan, is one of the\\nfinest. This variety has greenish stripes down each of the six divisions\\nof the flower; the anthers are brown. L. s. album-no vum has larger\\nflowers, with bright yellow anthers. L. s. album, grown in Europe,\\ngradually becomes tinged with pink. L. s. punctatum has white flowers\\ndotted with pink. The principal pink or carmine forms are L. roseum\\nrubrum; others are Liliums Schrymakersi, cruentum, purpureum, pur-\\npuratum, magnificum and superbum. The natural period for blooming\\noutside, according to locality, is from the end of July till September. A\\nvariety called L. Melpomene, which sometimes gets to be 6 feet high,\\nwas raised by the late Mr. Hovey, of Boston, many years ago. It was", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 89\\nBaid to be a hybrid between Liliums speciosum and auratum it has\\nlarger flowers than any of the varieties of L. speciosum, but, with us, it\\nis very unreliable when left outside, going off suddenly without any\\napparent cause, while both Liliums speciosum and auratum alongside\\ndo well. L. longiflorum is perfectly hardy, and with L. candidum\\nshould be grown for Summer flowers. L. auratum is often unsatisfac-\\ntory, failing to start well from imported bulbs. It is of little service as\\na cut flower, but probably the finest species of the genus for the open\\nborder. As many as 50 large flowers are frequently produced in a\\nseason from a single bulb.\\nNARCISSUS POETICUS is the most useful of the late blooming species\\nfor outdoor cutting. It should be given a permanent place in the open\\nground, as it usually does not deteriorate, but in suitable soil rather the\\nreverse. The bulbs are procurable in large quantites at low rates, and\\nit ought to be taken into consideration that they flower yearly in the\\nopen field and increase to such an extent under fairly good treatment,\\nthat the bulbs which fill a given space this year will in four years fill six\\ntimes the space. N. p. recurvus is the best of the single forms, but other\\nkinds are sometimes sold for it. The double form is a large and hand-\\nsome flower, of which we see too little. They should be lifted every\\nsecond or third year, as soon as the bulbs are ripe (where cultivated on\\na large scale they are lifted every season, the sizes sorted and immedi-\\nately replanted, the ground having been well enriched with manure.\\nTheir usual period of flowering here is from May 10th to the 20th. In\\nwell-sheltered, sunny positions they flower much earlier. In order to\\nutilize space, if the rows are wide enough, stock plants of various things\\ncan be planted between them.\\nOXALIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The main batch of Oxalis for Winter flowering should be\\npotted up by the middle of October. Put a single bulb in each pot,\\nusing 3-inch pots to start with, and shifting on the plants as they need\\nit until they are in 5 or 6-inch pots, in which they bloom. When several\\nbulbs are potted together in a large pot, at first they are certain to pro-\\nduce foliage in abundance and but few flowers. By the middle of June\\nthe bulbs will be dried off; this is accomplished by withholding water and\\nturning the pots on their sides. Be careful to place them so that the soil\\nis exposed to view, as mice are exceedingly fond of the bulbs. All of the\\nkinds grown for their flowers in Winter are very prolific in the produc-\\ntion of new bulbs, that is, if sufficient root room has been afforded for\\ntheir perfect development during the growing period. Home-grown\\nbulbs are very superior to those imported. Some of the best kinds are\\nO. cernua, yellow; O. Bowiei, O. gigantea and O. hirta-rosacea, pink;\\nO. versicolor and O. lactiflora, white. O. rubricaulis is desirable not so\\nmuch for the flowers as for the highly colored red stems. O. Bowiei and\\nO. versicolor are well suited for baskets, for hanging in conservatories.\\nThe last named requires very little heat.\\nPOLIANTHES TUBEROSA (Tuberose)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are grown largely for\\nsupplying white flowers during Summer and Fall months. They may", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "90 BULBOUS PLANTS.\\nbe put in the ground after danger from frost is past, and at later inter-\\nvals to give a succession of flowers. The finest bulbs are supplied so\\ncheaply by American growers, that it does not pay to propagate in\\nsmall quantities.\\nRICHARDIA ^THIOPICA (Calla) which are out of service should\\nhave the water gradually withheld from them, and as the foliage dies\\ndown turn the pots on their sides and leave them in this position until\\nthe time arrives for starting into growth in Autumn. The pots should\\nnot be put in a place where the sun will have full play on them. Jadoo\\npotted tubers may as well have another season without disturbance,\\nas this material does not seem to decompose rapidly; liquid manure\\nwould then, of course, have to be applied regularly. For increasing the\\nstock of the yellow varieties they should be grown all Summer; plant\\nthem outside in rich, well-drained situations where they can be watered\\nabundantly when occasion requires it. In Winter they need a mini-\\nmum temperature of 60 degrees. By the middle of September the\\nlargest sizes of R. aethiopica should be in 6 and 7-inch pots and placed\\nin an open frame. Have the sash handy so that they may be protec-\\nted during wet weather. With a good watering at first they won t\\nneed much moisture till good roots are formed. At least one-third of\\nrotted cow manure should be in the soil.\\nTRILLIUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 About a dozen species of these beautiful and interesting\\nnative plants are in cultivation. T. grandiflorum is the one most com-\\nmonly grown, owing to its very large white flowers. Its culture is of\\nthe simplest description, requiring a half-shaded position with abun-\\ndance of vegetable humus in the soil. It is sometimes grown in pots for\\nearly forcing, for which purpose it is well adapted. The rhizomes should\\nbe potted as soon as the plants are at rest, late in Summer, and plunged\\nin a cool frame until wanted. With very little heat they will flower\\nseveral weeks in advance of their usual time.\\nVALLOTA PURPUREA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very useful plant, either for the greenhouse\\nor the window garden, but not of much service to the florist, as it\\nflowers at a period when the demand for cut flowers is not very great.\\nAs the bulbs will last in the same pots for several years, the drainage\\nshould be carefully arranged, and the soil mixed with crushed bone.\\nDuring growth occasional waterings with manure should be given.\\nThe flowers are reddish scarlet, severalinan umbel; in appearance some-\\nwhat like those of an Amaryllis. The foliage is evergreen, but during\\nthe resting season the supply of water should be curtailed.\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Vallota has a very curious method of making\\nyoung plants which I do not remember to have seen described any-\\nwhere. These young plants are produced to such an extent that the\\nprocess tends to curtail the flowering propensities of the larger bulbs if\\nattention be not given in the matter of removing them. In course of\\ntime they form two colonies, one on each side of the parent bulb. The\\nof the leaves forming the bulb have each a small bud-like growth", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "BULBOUS PLANTS. 91\\na considerable distance from the base or disc, but attached to the disc\\nby a root-like formation which continues active^ after the swollen base\\nof the leaf is dead, in supplying nutriment to the young bulb until it\\nsends out roots. When this little root-like process is of no further use it\\ngradually shrivels up. Afterward the young bulbs grow apace and rob\\nthe soil of the nourishment intended for the parent bulb. This provision\\nevidently shows that the Vallota naturally grows deep in the soil and\\nis intended to raise the bulblets near to the surface before taking root.\\nThese bulblets, unless intended for increasing the stock, should be\\nremoved as soon as they make their appearance above the soil.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "92\\nOrnamental Grasses*\\nANDROPOGON SCH/ENANTHUS (Lemon Grass)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The leaves of this\\nplant when bruised emit a fragrance much resembling that of the Lemon\\nVerbena. It is a tender evergreen. When planted out in Summer the\\ngrowth is very rapid even in dry soils. As a pot plant it has a very\\nornamental appearance, and stands well in a dwelling house. It is prop-\\nagated by division at any time of the year. The pieces should be\\nplaced in wet sand for a few days previous to potting to encourage new\\nroots to form.\\nARUNDO DONAX\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The tallest of our herbaceous grasses, growing\\nunder favorable conditions to a height of 25 feet; flowers late in Sum-\\nmer. A very ornamental plant for the centers of large beds, or for iso-\\nlated groups on wide borders or lawns. As it increases very rapidly at\\nthe root the rhizome-like growth may be divided just as the new shoots\\nmake their appearance above the soil; these, when heeled in, may be\\ntransplanted at any time.\\nA. D. variegata grows only about half the height of the green one\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nan exceedingly desirable plant for the hardy border. To propagate,\\ntake the ripe stems and lay them in damp moss or sand; from each\\njoint one or more buds will start into growth and ultimately take root.\\nThese young plants, when of sufficient size, may be detached from the\\nparent stem and put in small pots.\\nBAMBUSA (Bamboo)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are one or two species grown in green-\\nhouses and several hardy ones. B. arundinacea will grow 60 feet high\\nin a single season. It is useful for roomy structures where quick effects\\nare wanted. B. aurea is perfectly hardy in Washington, D. C. The\\ngrowths will reach a height of 15 feet. B. striata is grown indoors in\\nWinter. The plants will thrive a long time with limited root accommo-\\ndation. B. virminalis, B. chrysantha, B. punctata, B. mitis and B.\\nMarliacea sometimes stand the Winter in the open border without losing\\ntheir foliage. B. Fortunei variegata should never be placed where it\\nwill crowd other plants, as it spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradi-\\ncate. Propagation is best effected by division. The pieces should be\\nstarted into growth among sand, in a close cool frame, potting off the\\nrarer kinds when a few new roots have been made.\\nCYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS is useful either as a house plant or for plant-\\ning out in Summer. Its propagation is much quicker accomplished by\\nleaves than from seed in the following manner: Get a piece of zinc, or as\\nmany pieces as may be wanted, of a size say, 2 feet square; turn up the\\nsides 3 inches; beat the sides forming the corners together and bend them", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 93\\nto one side so as to hold water, fill with sand and saturate with water.\\nGet some mature growths, cut off the stalk and shorten the leaves; in-\\nsert in the sand and keep thoroughly wet. In a warm house they will\\nsend up numerous rooted growths in a short time, which, as they require\\nir, should be potted and grown on. Young plants such as these can very\\neasily be divided. I haven t had much success with the variegated form\\npropagated in this way it is apt to come green. Division suits it better.\\nDACTYLIS GOLnERATA VARIEGATA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The species grows in waste\\nplaces in the Eastern States. The green-leaved plants are weedy in\\ngrowth, very floriferous and are never grown in gardens. The varie-\\ngated form seldom produces many flowers, and these, when they appear,\\nshould be removed. It is one of our best low-growing variegated\\ngrasses, much used in some places for bedding. It is readily propagated\\nby division.\\nELYilUS QLAUCUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very ornamental species with bluish green\\nleaves finely striated on the upper surfaces. It reaches a height of\\nabout 2 feet. The habit is inclined to be spreading. In early Spring\\nthe growth is about a foot high when most other ornamental grasses\\nare just showing. Propagated by division.\\nERiANTHUS RAVENNA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species comes next in size to the\\nArundo, frequently growing 10 feet high. The growths are stout, end-\\ning with very ornamental flowers, which, if taken in a young state and\\ndried-in the sun, are quite as showy as those of the Pampas plumes.\\nThe plants produce seeds freely; they should be sown in Autumn and\\nwintered in a cool house. The plant is thoroughly hardy in the District\\nof Columbia.\\nEULALIA (Miscanthus)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The variegated forms of E. japonica are\\nmore frequently used than any other ornamental grasses. As isolated\\nspecimens they grow into very symmetrical subjects, the outer leaves of\\nthe clump drooping and almost reaching the ground. There are three\\nkinds usually cultivated\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Eulalia japonica foliis-striatus, E. j. zebrina\\nand E. univittata. The last named is much more dwarf than the others,\\nthe leaves narrow with a whitish stripe down the middle. They are\\nnatives of Japan. Propagation is effected by division of the crowns,\\nand should be done just as the plants are starting into growth. Old\\nclumps will have to be broken up with the aid of a mattock or axe.\\nThey may be divided into pieces small enough to go in a 3-inch pot and\\nplunged in a frame among ashes, or they may be heeled among sand in\\na frame for a couple of weeks or more before potting. They should in\\nany case be kept close for a few days after being divided, in order to\\nstart fresh roots.\\nFESTUCA GLAUCA grows only a few inches high, the foliage is of a\\nbluish green color. It may be divided and replanted during March or\\nApril.\\nQYNERIUn ARGENTEUM (The Pampas Grass)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 During the exception-\\nally severe Winter of 1898-1899 we did not lose a single plant of any\\nof the forms of the Pampas Grasses. None of the plants was protected", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "94 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.\\nby the usual method of boxes or barrels with the ends knocked out,\\nplaced over the plants and filled with leaves or straw. Propagation\\nfrom seed is the usual method, but division of the old plants will be\\nfound more satisfactory. Dig up a large clump in the Fall; chop it up\\ninto pieces small enough to go easily into 6-inch pots. Use stiff loam\\nand pot firmly, standing the plants under benches; water occasionally\\nuntil the beginning of February, when the plants should be removed\\nfrom the pots and divided up into the smallest pieces, saving the new\\nroots as much as possible. Shorten the leaves back to half their length\\nand put in the sand bed for a couple of weeks to start fresh roots; then\\nplace in 3 or 4-inch pots, and they will form well-furnished plants in a\\nshort time.\\nPANICUM VARIEGATUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A useful little warm house plant, having\\nleaves striped with white and pink. It will grow in shade or sun, and\\nis used chiefly for hanging over the sides of baskets, vases and boxes.\\nPropagated from cuttings in March. The correct name is Oplismenus\\nBurmanni variegatus.\\nPAPYRUS ANTIQUORUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Papyrus, after being lifted from its\\nSummer quarters, where the growths made are usually very strong, fre-\\nquently gets into a half sickly state during the Winter months, from\\nwhich it takes it,some time to recuperate after being replanted outside.\\nIn Winter the growths are grassy and spindling. By the way, I doubt\\nvery much if the true Cyperus Papyrus is in common cultivation, the\\none generally grown under that name being an entirely different species.\\nHowever, that is a small matter, as the one commonly grown under\\nthe name of Cyperus Papyrus answers the purpose for which it is used,\\nquite as well, if not better, than the true species. If the old plants are\\ntaken in hand some time in January, and split up into the smallest\\npieces and put in the sand bed of a warm house, they will in a few days\\npush out fine, healthy roots, and when potted in a mixture of equal\\nparts of moss, sand and manure, will grow very vigorously and will be\\nin splendid trim for the planting out season. If it is desired to increase\\nthe stock the young plants, after being in the pots for a few weeks, can\\nbe re-divided and the operation of rooting gone through as at first. In\\nthe absence of a propagating bench a box of sand placed on the hot\\nwater pipes answers the same purpose.\\nPENNISETUM LONGISTYLUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Perhaps the finest of our dwarf\\ngrasses, which are grown principally on account of the very ornamental\\ncharacter of the flowers. It is usually treated as a half-hardy annual,\\nowing to its liability to get Winter-killed. It sometimes survives the\\nWinters in the District of Columbia, but should always be treated as a\\ntender subject. Plants raised annually from seeds are satisfactory, if\\nsown early; but old plants, divided up will give larger pieces, start into\\nbloom earlier and do not take so much attention as seedlings. The old\\nplants are wintered anywhere out of the reach of frost. About the\\nbeginning of February cut off the old leaves to within 6 inches of the\\ncrowns; divide into small pieces, trim the roots so that they will ulti-\\nmately go into 3 or 4-inch pots; place the pieces thickly together in", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 95\\nboxes of sandy soil and keep in greenhouse. Pot as soon as the new\\nroots have started. They may be removed to a cool frame long before\\nthe soft bedding material demands all the indoor space. There are\\nseveral other annual and perennial species grown; none, however, is as\\ndesirable as the above.\\nSACCHARUM OFFICINARUM VIOLACEUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A variety of the sugar\\ncane with violet or plum colored leaves and stems; useful for sub-tropi-\\ncal bedding. It is easily increased by cutting the stems into pieces, with\\ntwo joints to each piece, and placing them on the sand bed of a warm\\nhouse at almost any time. Numerous shoots are produced at the joints,\\nand they make plants rapidly.\\nST1PA PENNATA (Feather Grass)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An old favorite in gardens. The\\nleaves are long and narrow. The flowers are arranged in long, arching\\nspikes, presenting a very delicate appearance. Propagated in Spring by\\ndivision, and from seed. There are over a hundred species, only a few\\nof which are in cultivation.\\nUNIOLA LATIFOLIA is a native species which makes an attractive\\nborder plant, growing usually from 2 to 3 feet high. The leaves are\\nbroad and arching, about an inch wide; the spikelets are drooping on\\nlong pedicels. This grass starts early into growth and is one of the\\neasiest to propagate by division.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "96\\nWater Plants.\\nLIMNOCHARIS HUMBOLDTII\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Useful for planting where the water Is\\nonly a few inches deep. The flowers are yellow, about 2 inches in diame-\\nter. The plants must be wintered indoors. When grown in shallow\\nwater during Summer it is not necessary to keep them under water dur-\\ning Winter. All that is required is to prepare a box of moist loam; put\\nthe plants in this, in rows, close together; give a good watering and\\nstand the box under the bench of a warm house where it will get a fair\\namount of light. They will make a new set of short-stalked leaves ere\\nlong, and remain in good condition for planting out in the Spring.\\nNELUHBIUn\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are at least two species, N. speciosum and N.\\nluteum, besides several forms of the first named, differing from it princi-\\npally in the colors of the flowers. N. speciosum and its forms are the best\\nfor growing in ponds and fountain basins. During Summer they make\\nvery long underground stems, and, on the approach of cold weather,\\nform thick resting tubers at the ends of which are one or more dormant\\nbuds. Nelumbiums need an abundance of rich soil for their perfect\\ndevelopment. When grown in a cramped space comparatively few\\nflowers are produced. The flowers are from 8 inches to a foot across\\npink, white, and yellow, in color. They are borne on long, rigid stems\\nwell out of the water. The leaves have an exceedingly ornamental\\nappearance, being peltate and standing a considerable distance out of\\nthe water. The first few leaves float on the surface, but as the shoots\\ngain strength they rise 2 and 3 feet above the surface.\\nRaising Plants from Seed\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is a very certain method of increas-\\ning the supply of plants, not only for planting out the same season, but\\nas a convenient form in which to keep plants for sale. The seeds have a\\nvery hard covering, and before putting them in water this covering\\nshould be pierced either with the point of a knife or by the aid of a* file.\\nA very small opening will suffice in causing them to germinate in a few\\ndays. About the end of March sow fairly thick in a shallow seed pan,\\nsinking it about 6 inches beneath the surface in a warm tank. After the\\nseedlings have made the first leaf put each in a 3-inch pot. They can be\\nplanted out of these; or, if necessary, shift into 6-inch pots; in these\\nthey will pass the Summer and in the Fall form one or more small\\ntubers.\\nStarting Dormant Tubers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Attempts to start the dormant tubers of\\nNelumbiums after removal often result in disappointment. The opera-\\ntion of digging them up and replanting has an effect upon them sufficient\\nto prevent their breaking into growth with the same certainty that\\nwould have followed had they been left undisturbed. Especially is it a\\nrisky performance to plant out the tubers early in the season. I find it", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "WATER PLANTS. 97\\na very certain method to let the tubers float on the surface of an indoor\\ntank, or tub, on which the sun has full play; they soon begin to form\\nroots quite freely, and when put out by the middle of May or beginning\\nof June, according to locality, they continue to grow very luxuriantly,\\nmaking even greater progress than those whicTi have succeeded in start-\\nng outside.\\nInsect Enemies are not numerous; there is one, however, which\\ncauses great trouble, especially in the vicinity of long-established colo-\\nnies of the American species, N. luteum. This insect deposits its eggs on\\nthe leaves, and on hatching the caterpillars attack the outer edges prin-\\ncipally, rolling the leaves inward as they develop. Another favorite\\npoint of attack is the stem of the leaf. Beginning at the top the cater-\\npillar will eat out the interior part for several inches. In large collec-\\ntions it is a serious matter to attempt to combat this pest, but where\\nthere are only a few plants hand picking will prevent them doing much\\ninjury.\\nNYMPH^EA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 When anything like fair treatment is given most of the\\nspecies and varieties of Nymp^iseas grow very rapidly and flower abun-\\ndantly. There are only one or two kinds which are backward in this\\nrespect, and unfortunately they are the most handsome ones of the\\ngenus. N. gigantea, a light blue-flowered species from Australia, and\\nthe rose colored variety of N. alba, are the principal offenders. The\\nformer can be managed but not with tne same treatment as is given the\\nother blue-flowered species. With N. alba rosea the trouble seems to be\\ncaused by our hot Summers. However, there are numerous other species\\nand many hybrid forms which require much less attention than the\\nmajority of other classes of plants to bring them to perfection. There\\nare in the neighborhood of 40 kinds to choose from. Of these about\\nhalf are tender; the others will stand the Winters successfully if the\\ncrowns are low enough in the water to be out of the reach of frost. Or\\nif they be grown in places from which the water has to be drawn in\\nWinter, the plants may be covered with some protecting material. But\\nthe question of just how much cold the various kinds will stand has not\\nbeen ascertained. I have had tubs of several kinds frozen solid for six\\nweeks at a time without injuring the plants in the least.\\nThe tender kinds are divided into two well defined sections\u00e2\u0080\u0094 day\\nblooming and night blooming. In the day blooming section we have N.\\ngracilis, white; N. scutifolia, N. stellata, with numerous forms ranging\\nfrom colors almost blue to deep rose; N. pulcherrima produces flowers\\nexactly similar to those from plants raised from seed of N. gracilis,\\nwhich have evidently been fertilized by pollen from forms of N. stellata;\\nN. elegans, a Mexican species, has purplish flowers; N. gigantea, a light\\nblue-flowered species from Australia, has the largest blooms of all,\\nsometimes attaining a diameter of 16 inches.\\nThe Night=blooming section is represented by about ten kinds, the\\nbest known of which are: N. Lotus, N. rubra, N. devoniensis, N. dentata\\nand N. Sturtevantii. Most of the other sorts are cross-bred forms be-\\ntween N. Lotus and N. Sturtevantii. All of the tender kinds have thick", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "98 WATER PLANTS.\\nswollen root-stocks, while the hardy species, with one or two exceptions,\\nhave thick, fleshy rhizomes.\\nAmong the hardy sorts N. odorata is the one most commonly grown\\nfor its flowers. A form of this is known as the Cape Cod Water Lily; N.\\nodorata rosea has bright rose-colored flowers; N. o. sulphurea, N.\\nMarliacea chromatella and N. tuberosa flavescens have yellow flowers;\\nN. Marliacea albida and N. alba are pure white. A new hybrid race of\\nwhich N. Lay dekeri rosea is the best known, has several named kinds\\nwith rather odd colors, but they are less desirable than some of the bet-\\nter known varieties. They are, however, well suited for growing in\\ntubs half filled with soil, and the remaining space with water.\\nSoil\u00e2\u0080\u0094 All of the species and varieties will thrive in loam two parts\\nand one part half-rotted cow manure. Another good medium is formed\\nby adding a 5-inch potful of bone meal to a bushel of loam.\\nStarting Tubers Into Growth The tubers of the tender Nymphaeas\\nshould be started not later than the beginning of April. Each tuber\\nshould be put in a 5-inch pot, using pure loam. The tuber may be\\ncovered with about an inch of soil and a further layer of half an inch\\nof sand, and put in a tank of water at a temperature of from 65 to 70\\ndegrees. After a few leaves have been made the growth should be sepa-\\nrated from the tuber and repotted, as this prevents numerous shoots\\ndeveloping when planted out and secures a strong single growth. This\\napplies to all of the tender sorts. The tubers may be pushed back in the\\n5-inch pots, where they will continue sending up fresh shoots; these, or\\nas many as wanted, may be potted in 4-inch pots and allowed to go to\\nrest in them. Tubers thus formed should be kept for stock purposes,\\ninstead of old plants.\\nSummer Quarters\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this latitude it is safe to put out the tenderest\\nkinds after the 10th of May. Each plant, whether grown in sunken\\ntubs, boxes, or planted in the bottom of the pond, should have at least\\nthree bushels of prepared soil to grow them well. One foot beneath the\\nsurface is a safe distance; but they will thrive much deeper.\\nStarting Hardy Nymphaeas\u00e2\u0080\u0094 By the beginning of April any of the\\nhardy Nymphseas, which it is necessary to increase or replant, should\\nget attention before they make too much headway. In dividing up such\\nkinds as N. helvola and the pink varieties of N. odorata with small rhi-\\nzomes, such as N. odorata rosea and N. o. exquisita, or the small pieces\\nof N. Marliacea chromatella, it is safest to start the pieces in pots so\\nthat they will make a few leaves before being transferred to their perma-\\nnent quarters. Such kinds as N. alba, N. a. candidissima, N. Marliacea\\nalbida, N. M. rosea, N. M. carnea have very large rhizomes, and there is\\nlittle danger but that they will give a good account of themselves after\\nbeing divided and planted out.\\nWintering Tender Water Lilies\u00e2\u0080\u0094 From the 15th to the end of October\\nthe tender Water Lilies should be taken indoors for the Winter. Where\\nthere are small plants or tubers of the tender day blooming species and\\nvarieties, such as N. zanzibarensis, its varieties as azurea and rosea,\\nthe Australian N. gigantea, N; ccerulea and N. scutifolia, let the old ones", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "WATER PLANTS. 99\\ngo, as they are difficult to keep over the Winter, except in a large green-\\nhouse tank. Small, dormant tubers of any of the above can be started\\nin the Spring, and by careful manipulation they will give several plants\\neach, which will afford as much, if not more, satisfaction than would\\nthe older plants. Another matter which should be kept in mind con-\\ncerning the above kinds is that they do not form small tubers at the\\nsides of the large ones made during the growing season. The reverse is\\nthe case with such species and forms as N. dentata, N. devoniensis, N.\\nrubra, N. Sturtevantii, N. O Marana, N. Columbiana, N. Deaniana, N.\\ndelicatissima and N. Smithiana. These are all tender night-blooming\\nkinds and form tubers around the sides of the parent tuber or root-\\nstock; they are very irregular in shape, not at all resembling the pear-\\nshaped tuber of a young starved plant. After the display of flower is\\nover for the Season, cut off the leaves close to the crown, and with a\\nspade cut off the roots about 6 inches from the crown; lift the clump\\nand put beneath the stage of a warm house. The central part will decay\\nin a short time, and before this actually happens the tubers may be\\ngathered and stored for the Winter. N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima,\\nwhite and blue respectively, will keep easily, if the old root-stocks are\\nsaved, as they do not decay so easily as the other tender day bloomers.\\nWhen it is necessary to keep old plants of the above-named day bloomers\\nother than N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima, lift the smallest of the plants,\\nsave as many roots and leaves as possible, pot them and sink in a tank,\\nthe water of which does not fall below 50 degrees F. There are several\\nj methods of keeping the small tubers of the tender Nymphseas over Win-\\nw ter. Those from the night bloomers should not be removed in a hurry,\\nas the wound made by separating is apt to be slow in healing, and the\\nriper the tubers when tne work is done the greater the success. They\\nkeep well in damp moss, on the floor of a warm house. If they are\\nstarved tubers, that is, of the pear-shaped form, there is little fear of\\ndecay setting in, for then there are no wounds to heal as in the case of\\ndetached tubers. They may be then kept dry, but warm. Probably\\nthe safest plan, and the one which I adopt, is to put each kind in a pot\\nof sand and sink in a warm tank.\\nRaising Hardy Kinds from Seeds\u00e2\u0080\u0094 N. pygmgea seeds very freely, in\\nfact, every flower may be depended upon to ripen a capsule; but if there\\nis an overflow to the pond the seeds are very apt to get lost, as they\\nfloat on the surface after being liberated from the capsule. If gathered\\nbefore this takes place, and the pulpy material removed from around\\nthem, they may be thrown in a part of the pond where they are likely\\nto germinate. N. caroliniensis, N. tuberosa, N. odorata and one or two\\nof its varieties set seeds freely, but as they increase so easily from rhi-\\nzomes there is little need of raising seedlings. Marliac s hybrids are\\nevidently sterile, although the pollen in those I have tested is good.\\nSome of these hybrids do not permit of division of the root-stocks, and\\nthe probable reason why they cannot be propagated in this country is,\\none of the parents of the hybrids being so difficult to grow here it is\\nunavailable for the purpose of pollination. N. lutea and N. mexicana\\nseed somewhat sparingly, but both kinds have two methods of resting\\nduring Winter, so that raising plants from seed need not be resorted to.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "100 WATER PLANTS.\\nVictoria Regia\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this there are two forms\u00e2\u0080\u0094 V. R. Randii and V.\\nR. Trickeri. The Victorias are grown as annuals, the seeds being\\nsown about the beginning of January, and kept in water at a\\ntemperature of at least 80, degrees. The first leaves are grass-like,\\ngradually assuming the peltate form. The young plants should be\\nencouraged to make all the growth possible before being put out of\\ndoors. In this latitude we plant them out about May 20, and treat\\nthem in every respect like tender Nymphseas. Each plant should get at\\nleast a couple of cartloads of prepared soil, to have the plants at their\\nbest. V. Regia has leaves over 6 feet in diameter. The leaf of V. R.\\nRandii is much less in diameter, but more turned up at the margins;\\nthat of V. R. Trickeri, In size, is intermediate between the two.\\nLabels for Water Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Labels for pots under the surface of the\\nwater, if of the ordinary wooden kind, only remain in good condition\\nfor a short time, and then the writing becomes obliterated. With the\\nconstantly increasing number of Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums, one must\\nbe well acquainted with the names of the species and varieties to tell\\nthem by their leaves, but when in a dormant state it is impossible to\\ntell some of the kinds from others. A simple method of getting around\\nthis difficulty is to have labels made of strips of sheet copper, with\\na number stamped across the top, the number to correspond with a\\nnumbered list of the species and varieties kept in a book. The numbers\\nand names should also be written on a piece of board and nailed up\\nwhere it may be conveniently referred to. These labels last for years,\\nand may be used as often as necessary. In Water Lily ponds, whether\\nthe plants are labeled above water or not, those intended to be removed\\nto their Winter quarters should have the name secured by nailing a strip\\nof the copper along the top of a stout wooden label, with the number\\nbelonging to the kind punched on the copper. With copper and punches\\nconveniently at hand no more time will be used than in writing an\\nordinary label. This method is a safe one also, where a permanent\\nlabel is desired for preserving the names of outdoor vines, shrubs and\\ntrees.\\nOUVIRANDRA FENESTRALIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The lattice leaf plant of Madagascar.\\nThis unique subject thrives best when the leaves are near the surface of\\nthe water. The pots should be submerged from 4 to 6 inches. The\\ntemperature of the water should never be below 65 degrees, but it\\nshould be kept at least 10 degrees higher most of the time. A wide tub\\nand one about 14 inches deep, will suffice for the plant s needs. The tub\\nshould be placed in the warmest part of the stove, and shaded from the\\nsun at all seasons. It is not particular as to soil, growing in any ordi-\\nnary potting mixture. Loam, sand and a little half-rotted manure,\\ntopped off with fine grand, produce good results. When in an evidently\\ndormant state the plant will, no matter at what season, begin to send\\nup new leaves when given a shift, or the ball reduced and fresh soil\\nafforded. It s greatest enemy is the confervoid growths which cling to\\nthe leaves. To check these, keep the plant in total darkness for a few\\ndays. Propagation is by division, and from seeds.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "101\\nFerns and Lycopods*\\nADIANTUM (Maidenhair) is one of the most important genera of\\nferns, as it contains several of our most popular decorative plants.\\nThere are nearly a hundred known species; many of these are in cultiva-\\ntion, besides numerous varieties and forms. There is great diversity of\\nform in the fronds of different species. A. renif orme is simple and kidney\\nshaped. Among others A. macrophyllum and A. peruvianum have the\\nfronds simply pinnate. In the greater number of species the fronds are\\nmuch branched. Where large collections of ferns are grown it would be\\na difficult task to select the most beautiful and interesting kinds, as this\\ngenus above all others does not possess a simple species but what is\\nworthy of a place in the fernery. For decorative purposes A. cuneatum\\nis more extensively grown than any other species. There are several\\nwell marked forms. A. c. gracillimum has the segments much smaller\\nthan in those of the type. A. c. mundulum is a dwarf garden form, well\\nsuited for using in fern dishes. A. c. variegatum has the pinnules faintly\\nmarked with creamy white. A.hispidulum (pubescens) is a species much\\nused in a young state, as it can be got up in quantity very, readily.\\nPlants in 2 and 3-inch pots raised from spores have a very different\\nappearance from those which have reached the adult stage. A. cauda-\\ntum and A. lunulatum are well suited for planting in hanging baskets.\\nYoung plants are produced at the ends of the fronds, and when planted\\nout among rocks in a greenhouse they soon cover a large space. A.\\nCapillus- Veneris is one of the hardiest of the genus, but it has a very\\nwide geographical distribution. It is the most useful of all ferns for\\ngrowing on damp greenhouse walls. There are numerous varieties, A.\\nC.-V. imbricatum has very large pinnules; it is shy in producing spores,\\nbut is easily increased by division of the rhizomes in the latter part of\\nMarch. A. tenerum makes beautiful specimens in 5-inch pots, but is a\\nlittle tender for decorative work. Adiantum fronds will keep a much\\nlonger time after they are cut, if they be submerged in water for a few\\nhours, than if used direct from the plant. Among the tall growing\\nspecies A. trapeziforme is one of the most ornamental. It may frequently\\nbe met with in collections, and has fronds 3 to 4 feet long. A. t.\\npentadactylon is a well marked variety and should always be included\\nin large collections; it stands well as a decorative plant. A. t.\\nSanctse Catherines is a dwarf variety, with the segments deeply cut.\\nThis species and its varieties are best increased by division of the\\ncrowns before starting into growth.\\nAdiantum Farleyense\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Success in growing this important com-\\nmercial fern depends to a great extent on making a proper start with\\nthe small plants. It is labor lost in trying to make a healthy plant out\\nof an unhealthy one, or from one which has got a set-back from some", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "102 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.\\ncause, unless they be knocked out of the pots and split up into small\\npieces\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the smaller the better, provided there are a few small fronds\\nattached to each piece and a probability of their making new roots.\\nA. Farleyense does not produce spores as most kinds of ferns do. The\\nreason is because it is not a species, but merely an unfertile variety of a\\nspecies said to be the well known A. tenerum; consequently the only\\nmethod of propagation lies in dividing the old plants. Some growers\\nsplit the crowns and pot the growing points in thumb pots, placing\\nthem in a frame or close shaded house. This method is not always\\nsatisfactory, for unless the points have fairly good live roots to start\\nwith, or show signs of immediately making fresh ones, their struggle\\nfor existence is apt to be a pretty tough one. The first batch may be\\nstarted about the end of January or first half of February. Old plants\\nfrom which the fronds were cut earlier in the season, and which show\\nlittle colonies of small fronds, are the best for the purpose. Wash every\\nparticle of soil from the roots, when it will be found there is a consider-\\nable quantity of dead but hard, wiry rhizomes just beneath the surface\\nof the soil. This material, if potted up with the pieces, hinders their\\ngrowth and should be removed. Select only the rhizomes which have\\nlife in them and which have a frond, however small, or a piece of frond\\nattached. The work of separation should be done with the aid of a\\nsharp-pointed pair of scissors. Next put the pieces in a mixture of sand\\nand moss, the latter rubbed through a No. 8 sieve; have the materials\\nin equal parts. Water should be given very sparingly. To start the\\npieces into growth under the most favorable conditions they ought to\\nbe covered with glass until new roots and fronds push out. They may\\nthen be potted into 2-inch pots.\\nAdiantums from Spores A. cuneatum, A. pubescens and many other\\nspecies vegetate very quickly from spores. The principal points to be\\nobserved are to have the soil free from the lower forms of plant life, such\\nas mosses and liverworts. Sow the spores very thinly. Keep the pans\\nin which they are sown shaded from the sun, and the pans covered with\\nglass until the first fronds appear. During the process of germination\\nthe soil should not be watered from above, but by sinking the pans up\\nto the rims in a pail of water. The spores will germinate in almost any\\nkind of soil, but it should be somewhat porous and well drained. Sow\\nin early Spring.\\nPropagation by Division\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A cuneatum and A. Roenbeckii are the two\\nMaidenhair ferns most largely grown. These and their allied forms,\\nwhich have become unsightly through cutting the fronds, on being re-\\npeatedly used in decorations during the Winter season, should, while in\\na dormant state, have all the fronds cut off and be placed in the coolest\\nhouse, where they should be allowed to rest as long as possible. The\\nappearance of the young fronds will serve as an indication as to how the\\nplants should be split up previous to repotting. Put the pieces in 5-inch\\npots. In potting use a loam which is apt to get hard after watering;\\nthis, with a little sand and leaf soil, will give good results. In starting\\nthe plants they will not suffer by having the house almost without\\nshade.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 103\\nASPIDIUM CAPENSE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Where a good, hardy, ornamental Fern is\\nwanted for decorative purposes, one that is cheaply got up and not\\neasily spoiled, A. capense will answer. From a well filled 6 or 8-inch\\npot several dozen plants may be raised within a few months. It is a\\ngreenhouse species requiring but little heat in Winter.\\nASPLENIUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very large genus. Only a very few of the species are\\nextensively grown, but none of them is on the short list of the best dec-\\norative Ferns for florists. A. nidus, the Bird s-nest Fern, a native of\\nAustralia, is a striking species with very large simple leaves. It must\\nhave perfect drainage, rather rough and fibry soil, and a stove tempera-\\nture.\\nCIBOTIUM (Dicksonia) SCHIEDEI\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A low-growing Tree-Fern, native\\nof Mexico. The fronds are of a light shade of green and very much divided,\\nthose of young plants arching gracefully. It stands well in a dry\\natmosphere. Young plants come readily from spores. Old plants some-\\ntimes make numerous growths at the base of the stem. If these are\\ntaken off with a few roots attached and put in the sand bed for a few\\nweeks they make specimen plants very quickly.\\nCYRTOHIUM (Aspidium) FALCATUH, together with C. Fortunei and\\nA. caryotideum, are among the hardiest of the Ferns used for decorat-\\ning, for which purpose they are much grown. The coolest house will do\\nfor the plants after they are of the requisite size. The fronds are simply\\npinnate, the pinnules resembling, to a certain extent, the leaf divisions\\nof the fish-tail Palm, Caryota urens. Young plants are raised from\\nspores.\\nDAVALLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A genus of Ferns having scaly rhizomes which usually\\ncreep along the surface of the soil and send out roots from their under\\nsurfaces. Of the few species grown D. fijiensis plumosa is one of the\\nmost ornamental, having very finely divided fronds. It must be grown\\nin a warm house. As it is not a deep rooting plant pans or baskets\\nshould be used according to the purpose for -which the plants are wanted.\\nIt is propagated by division of the rhizomes while dormant. D. bullata,\\nD. pentaphylla, D. Tyermanni, and D. dissecta are well adapted for bas-\\nkets. Those made of wire should be selected, so that the rhizomes, as\\nthey lengthen, may be pegged against the side. D. alpina and D. par-\\nvula are exceedingly pretty dwarf-growing species for a warm green-\\nhouse. D. stricta is grown as a pot plant; this species is easily raised\\nfrom spores.\\nD. Mariesii is the species used in making up Fern Balls. It is decidu-\\nous and should he kept moist enough in Winter to prevent the rhizomes\\nfrom shrivelling.\\nD. Mooreana is a desirable plant for house decoration, but is not\\ngrown in quantity, owing to the difficulty of getting up a large stock\\nwithin a reasonable time. Those in a starved condition make the best\\nstock plants.\\nDICKSONIA PAROMETZ is a very useful, medium-sized decorative\\nspecies. It is freely increased by division.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "104 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.\\nD. antarctica\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The stems of this noble Tree-Fern are sometimes im-\\nported in a dormant state. When placed in a cool, moist house in pots\\nonly large enough to accommodate them, they usually start into\\ngrowth. Young plants are raised from spores sown in a cool, shaded\\ngreenhouse. They sometimes germinate freely sown on the stems of the\\nold plants. The fronds are of a leathery texture, and the plants stand\\nmuch rough treatment.\\nLOMARIA GIBBA is a miniature Tree-Fern forming very graceful\\nrosettes of simply divided leaves. It is useful even in a very small state,\\nas the foliage is different from that of most other Ferns grown in quantity\\nfor decorative purposes. Old plants produce fertile fronds in abun-\\ndance, and if the spores are harvested and sown at the proper time, they\\nvegetate very quickly. By this method of increase, plants in 5-inch pots\\nmay be produced in 12 months from sowing. Of this species there are\\none or two handsome forms. L. g. Belli has the points of the pinnae\\nbeautifully tasselled. L. g. robusta is of a robust growing nature. A\\nspecies closely allied to L. gibba, known as L. ciliata, has shorter apd\\nstouter fronds. The plant is quite as useful and as easily raised from\\nspores as L. gibba.\\nMICROLEPIA (Davallia HIRTA CRIST ATA is one of the handsomest\\nof crested Ferns, capable of being grown into very large, symmetrical\\nspecimens. To have it at its best it needs a warm temperature. Water\\nshould be kept from the fronds, as they are quite hairy and are apt to\\nturn brown when kept wet. Increased by division.\\nNEPHROLEPIS The species and forms are for the most part plants\\nwith tough, leathery fronds, enabling them to be used with little injury\\nfor decorating or house plants. Several varieties are largely grown.\\nThe most popular are forms of N. exaltata. N. e. bostoniensis is an old\\nand deservedly popular plant which has within the last few years been\\nvery extensively employed as a decorative plant. Large [specimens are\\nwell adapted for placing on pedestals, or hanging from the roof of a\\nlarge conservatory. It is increased by division, planting the pieces in\\nshallow soil, on benches, and potting up the young plants, which are\\nformed from runners. The plant known as N. davallioides furcans is a\\ncrested form, evidently not of N. davallioides but of some other species,\\nprobably one allied to N. acuta. When planted out on benches it gives\\noff plants from runners in the same manner as the Boston Fern, but not\\nso plentifully. Old specimens may be divided and the pieces put thickly\\ntogether on a bench, in leaf mould and sand, to make a little growth\\nbefore potting.\\nN. e. cristata is a form closely resembling the last named; it needs\\nmore heat to develop it perfectly.\\nN. washingtoniensis and N. w. pendula are both good kinds for decora-\\ntive purposes. The fronds after being cut will last for a long time un-\\nder what would seem adverse conditions.\\nN. cordifolia, when well grown, is an elegant decorative subject. The\\ntypical form is much smaller than any of the above-mentioned species", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 105\\nand varieties. The fronds are narrow and the leaf divisions close together,\\nbut, like some of the others, it varies much. One of the varieties pro-\\nduces tubers; the fronds in this case are large and may be mistaken for\\nthose of N. exaltata.\\nN. c. pectinata is a well known variety, having the fronds narrow\\nand drooping. When matured it is usually grown in baskets suspended\\nfrom the roof of a greenhouse. Useful specimens may also be grown in\\n5-inch pots. Increased by divisions, which may be quite small.\\nN. acuta is a stout growing and distinct species; the fronds are\\nsometimes 16 inches broad and from 2 to 4 feet long. It makes but few\\nfronds when compared with some of the others. It must have abundant\\nroot room. Increased by stolons.\\nN. davallioides is somewhat coarse in growth. It needs careful han-\\ndling while the fertile fronds are developing. Moderate-sized specimens\\ndo not show this plant at its best, as it is the very long fertile fronds on\\nplants several feet across which make it attractive. Increased by divi-\\nsion.\\nONYCH1UM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this genus two species are commonly grown for\\ndecorative purposes; the fronds are very much divided. O. auratum is\\nthe largest, but O. japonicum is the handsomest. Both are easily in-\\ncreased from spores; or the old plants may be divided, but only to make\\nlarge specimens.\\nPLATYCERIUM (Stag Horn Fern)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 From their wonderful resem-\\nblance to the antlers of a stag well grown plants of the Platyceriums\\nnever fail to attract attention. The species called P. grande is the most\\nstriking of the number. A native of the northern part of Australia it\\nneeds more heat than most of the others. While they succeed pretty\\nwell in pots they do better and look more natural when grown on blocks\\nof wood. Some forked limbs of trees should be cut up on which to fasten\\nthe plants. The pieces should be in the neighborhood of 18 inches in\\nlength. Drive in a few nails here and there; place some rough peat and\\nmoss against the wood; put the plant in position and wire it firmly,\\npacking in portions of the peat and moss wherever possible.\\nR. grande can only be propagated in quantity from the spores,\\nwhich are found in a large mass underneath the primary division of the\\nfrond. Raising young plants in this way is not a diflicult operation,\\nbut one that requires lots of patience. A pan should be prepared con-\\ntaining fibry peat, chopped fine; add a liberal quantity of finely-broken\\nbrick, charcoal, and coarse sand. The pan should be placed in a flat of\\nwater so that the mixture may derive moisture from beneath. Water\\nshould never be given overhead, as germination depends, to a great ex-\\ntent, on the spores remaining in the same spot until the prothallus be-\\ngins to form.\\nP. alcicorne and its var. majus may be grown in a cool greenhpuse.\\nThese kinds, together with P. Hillii and P. sethiopica, increase rapidly\\nfrom the roots, many bud-like processes forming on the surfaces and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "106 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.\\nsending up tiny leaves. These young plants may be removed when an\\ninch or two high, and potted singly in small pots.\\nPOL YPODIUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is the largest genus of the order, and includes\\nmany plants which have long been known under other generic names.\\nThese names are in common use, and it is likely that they will continue\\nto be employed for a long time. Some of the better known are Cam-\\npyloneuron, Cryptosorus, Drynaria, Goniophlebium, Goniopteris, Lepi-\\ncystis, Niphobolus, Phegopteris, Phlebodium and Pleopeltis. There is a\\ngreat number of exceedingly beautiful plants among the species. The\\nvarieties, especially those of the common Polypody, P. vulgare, are\\namong the handsomest of hardy Ferns, but they are not so much grown\\nin America as in Europe, where they do grandly in outdoor ferneries.\\nP. (Goniophlebium) sub=auriculatum makes one of the finest basket\\nplants for a warm greenhouse. The fronds are several feet in length,\\nand drooping. This Fern is not difficult to grow, provided it be given\\na fibrous soil and an abundant supply of water during the period of\\ngrowth. It is helped along wonderfully by adding to the soil some finely\\ncrushed bone with the minute particles washed out, only saving the\\nrougher material in the process of washing. This substance, by the\\nway, is of great service as permanent food for many of the Ferns, but\\nthe deleterious matter must be removed by washing.\\nP. (Niphobolus) lingua, from Northern India and Japan, is almost\\nhardy and one of the best for house culture. There are three forms: one\\nvariegated, another crested, the third having the largest fronds. The\\nfronds are undivided, very leathery in texture and remain in good condi-\\ntion for more than a year. All of them are very readily increased by\\ndivision.\\nP. Heracleum and P. conjugatum are suitable for a warm conserva-\\ntory. When well grown they are odd and attractive. The very thick\\nrhizomes grow on the surface of the soil and accommodate themselves\\nin a wonderful way to a limited rooting area by growing in coils.\\nP. (Phlebodium) aureum should be more grown for decorative purposes,\\nas it will stand a dry atmosphere, is very graceful, and the spores on a\\nsmall frond will raise thousands of plants. They should be sown on\\nvery finely chopped Fern roots mixed with screened moss. The fronds\\nare from 2 to 4 feet in length, and from 9 to 18 inches broad, simply\\ndivided. It grows most luxuriantly among Fern root, peat and moss.\\nThere is a form called P. a. sporadocarpum with fronds very glaucous,\\nalmost blue, usually growing from 12 to 18 inches high\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a handsome\\nplant, showing up well under gaslight. Increased by rhizomes. It needs\\nmore heat than the type.\\nP. rigidulum A species too seldom seen. It has two kinds of fronds\\nvery different from eash other; the barren ones are about 9 inches in\\nlength, divided half way to the mid-rib, forming blunt lobes. The fertile\\nones reach a height of from 2 to 4 feet, and are 12 to 18 inches broad.\\nA very handsome plant for collections.\\nP. Phymatodes is a rhizomatous species of very rapid growth, with\\nexceedingly graceful leaves. The fronds are deeply pinnatifid, the fertile", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 107\\nones narrowest. One of the uses to which this Fern may be put is in\\ntraining against damp walls or on the dead stems of Tree Ferns. It is\\neasiest propagated by taking pieces of the rhizomes with fronds attached\\nand pegging down in 4 or 5-inch pots of sandy soil.\\nPTERIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are many good decorative plants in this genus, all of\\nwhich are easy to propagate. Most of them may be grown in ordinary\\ngreenhouse temperature. Of P. serrulata, much used in a small state,\\nthere are numerous forms, some of which have beautifully crested fronds\\nand others variegated.\\nP. cretica albo=lineata is one of the finest of all variegated Ferns. The\\nbarren fronds are nearest the base of the plant; they are shorter and\\nbroader than the fertile ones. A broad band of creamy white occupies\\nthe middle of each leaf division. This Fern comes true from the spores,\\nwhich vegetate in a very short time after sowing.\\nP. quadriaurita, a variable species. The most useful form is known\\nas P. q. argyrsea, having a white mark down the center of each frond\\na very useful variety in a small state. It is raised from spores.\\nPteris tremula is best for using in pots not under 5-inch. It is one of\\nthe quickest raised from spores. There are crested forms. The one\\nnamed P. t. Smithiana has been in the trade for several years.\\nP. Wallichii and P. inequalifolia (the latter evidently related to P.\\nsemipinnata) are coarse growing and easily multiplied by division. P.\\nhastata and P. macrophylla have very dark green fronds. Both are\\nvery liable to insect attacks, unless grown cool. They are both useful in\\n2 and 3-inch pots.\\nSELAGINELLA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although not related to Ferns, some of the species\\nhave a striking resemblance to these plants. Their cultural require-\\nments are almost similar. They do best in shade, and with a few excep-\\ntions they need a rather warm atmosphere, especially while making\\ntheir new growth. They may be propagated from spores, division of\\nthe crowns, or from cuttings. Propagation by spores is seldom attempted\\nas dividing the plants and rooting from cuttings will give an abun-\\ndant supply.\\nS. Emmeliana, one of the best for supplying small plants for mixing\\nwith Ferns, is increased by breaking up the mature fronds into small\\npieces, and scattering these on the surface of a box or bed of sandy soil,\\nwhich should be kept moist and shaded from the sun. Every small\\npiece will make a plant.\\nS. Kraussiana is a dense growing moss-like species, much used for\\ncovering the soil in pots in which other plants are growing, in Fern\\ndishes, and for the borders of conservatory beds. S. K. aurea has yel-\\nlow foliage. S. K. variegata is green and white. In propagating this\\nspecies and its forms it should not be broken up into little tufts and\\npotted, as is usually the case. Take single growths and put, say three\\nof them, in a 3-inch pot; in a short time they will develop enough growth\\nto cover the soil.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "108 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.\\nS. erythropus is a useful species with reddish stems reaching a height\\nof about 9 inches.\\nS. Martensii, a Mexican species, is one of those most frequently grown.\\nIt is exceedingly easy to propagate, as long aerial roots are made from\\nthe stems. Cuttings, say about 4 inches in length, will root well if put\\nin small pots and kept close; or to fill large pans, and have them present\\na well-furnished appearance in a short time, root the pieces in sand,\\nafterward putting directly in the pans.\\nS. Iepidophylla is the well-known Resurrection Plant, which, when\\ndry, curls up into a ball, and which uncurls when placed in water.\\nS. viticulosa grows about 8 inches high, is always bright green. An\\neasily divided plant and useful in a small state.\\nS. cassia arborea is a climbing species very suitable for rambling over\\nrustic work in a moist conservatory. Where its serial roots are allowed\\nto fasten themselves to suitable material it grows into a dense, irregular\\nmass of lovely bluish-green foliage.\\nSoil\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This should be of a porous nature, through which water will\\npass freely. Small plants from spores will need about two parts leaf\\nsoil and one each of loam and sand. Loam, whenever used, should be\\nfibrous, well broken up and not sifted. For plants in pots larger than 4-\\ninch, leaf soil, loam and sand, in equal parts, will be a safe compound.\\nSome Ferns, notably A. Farleyense, are benefited by having some rotted\\ncow manure mixed with the soil. Large plants, and those which have\\nto remain in the same pots for any length of time without shifting,\\nshould have less leaf soil and more loam. But most of the species thrive\\nin a variety of soils. The usual time for potting large plants is before\\nstarting into growth; but rapid-growing, small plants should be shifted\\ninto larger pots as they need them.\\nSummer Quarters for Cool House Ferns\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Many Ferns used during\\nWinter as decorative plants will be found to put on a vigorous growth\\nin frames during the warm months. Select those frames with a northern\\nexposure, with the sashes tilted to give an abundance of air. The pots\\nmay be plunged or placed on some material capable of giving off consid-\\nerable moisture. The plants may be kept in this structure till cool\\nweather. Among the kinds which may be thus treated are Pteris Vic-\\ntoriae, P. cretica albo-lineata, P. Mayii, P. serrulata and its many\\nforms, P. tremula, P. hastata, Onychium japonicum, Aspidium capense,\\nAdiantum Capillus- Veneris, A.formosum,Cyrtomium falcatum and Dick-\\nsonia antarctica. In Winter a minimum temperature of 45 degrees will\\nkeep all of the Ferns named above in healthy condition. For the tender\\nkinds 10 to 15 degrees higher will be necessary.\\nShading\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Some Ferns, such as Cheilanthes vestita, grow in dry places\\nin the full sun, but the vast majority thrive only under conditions exactly\\nthe reverse. In Winter the very thinnest shade will be sufficient, and\\nfrom the 1st of April to the end of September it should be heavy enough\\nto intercept the sun s rays.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 109\\nPreparing Soil for Fern Spores\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The greatest hindrances to raising\\nFerns from spores are the lower forms of plant life ever present in the\\nsoil, and very often in the water. These consist of Mosses, Liverworts\\nand the various confervoid growths. Many of them, owing to the\\nfavorable conditions presented, vegetate as quickly as the spores of the\\nFerns and grow into a mass, choking the prothallus in the first stages\\nof growth. The only means of getting around this difficulty lies in ster-\\nilizing the soil, or, at least, that part of it on which the spores are to be\\nsown; and this can only be done safely by subjecting it to a temperature\\nsufficiently high to kill all plant organisms, by baking, steaming or boil-\\ning. The last method will be the most available in the majority of\\ncases. The soil may be boiled for 15 or 20 minutes, and afterward\\npoured into wide flat boxes to dry. Shallow pans are the most conve-\\nnient in which to vegetate tfie spores; they should be well drained with\\npotsherds and these covered with a layer of sphagnum. The kind of\\nsoil to be used Is of little importance, provided it be porous and free of\\nvegetable organisms. Loam, leaf mould and finely broken brick, in\\nequal parts, make an ideal mixture. Press it firmly and give water\\nalways by sinking the pan up to the rim in a vessel containing water.\\nGathering and Sowing Spores\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Many failnres in germinating some of\\nthe rarer kinds of Ferns may be set down to harvesting the spores at\\nthe wrong time. They should always be gathered with the aid of a\\nhand-magnifying glass, which will show when the cases are about to\\nburst. Cut off the entire frond, or as much as may be wanted, and put\\nbetween sheets of white paper to dry. In a day or two the spores will\\nhave fallen from the frond; if not, a gentle rubbing between the fingers\\nwill release them. They should then be scattered on the surface of the\\nsoil in the pan, taking care to sow very thinly, as they are very liable to\\ndampen off when the prothalli are too close together. Cover with a\\npane of glass and put the pan in a shaded frame, or in a heavily shaded\\npart of the greenhouse. When the prothallus develops, and just as the\\nfirst tiny leaves appear, the glass covers may be removed, to harden the\\nseedlings a little. A day or two after they may be pricked off into other\\npans of soil, taking one small paten at a time on the end of a knife blade\\nand merely pressing them into a previously made cavity on the surface\\nof the soil. They may then be watered through a fine rose.\\nViviparous Ferns are those which develop bulbils along the midribs\\nor on the lateral branchlets of the fronds, thus providing a ready means\\nof propagation. Polystichum angulare, Asplenium bulbiferum and\\nWoodwardia radicans are good examples. There are also several other\\nwell-known Ferns which possess this peculiarity. To increase Ferns by\\nthis means sink the pots up to their rims in a suitable mixture of soil\\nto enable the fronds which are provided with bulbils to be easily pegged\\ndown, so that plantlets may be encouraged to develop roots quickly.\\nWhen they have made a sufficient quantity to enable them to become\\nself-supporting they may be separated from the frond and potted sepa-\\nrately into 2y 2 -inch pots, or, if too small for pots, they may be pricked\\noff into boxes or pans.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "110 FEENS AND LYCOPODS.\\nInsect Enemies\u00e2\u0080\u0094 If the plants are not subjected to adverse condi-\\ntions, such as too high a temperature, or insufficient moisture in the air\\nor at the roots, they will seldom be attacked by insects. The Mealy\\nBug, Thrips and Brown Scale, are sometimes troublesome. Scale is not\\neasy to remove, and the only efficacious method is to use a sponge and\\nwater. For the other insects fumigation or vaporizing may be resorted\\nto or, if only a few plants are affected, they may be laid on their sides\\nand the insects removed by using the hose. Slugs are the greatest ene-\\nmies of the Ferns, and a close watch should be kept for them. Various\\nmethods are employed to capture them, such as a board smeared on the\\nunder side with lard, cabbage leaves, and sliced turnips, or potatoes laid\\namong the plants; or by using camphor among the pots, and air-slacked\\nlime on and under the benches. If the slugs are numerous, hand-picking\\nshould first be resorted to. They feed at night and rest during the day.\\nThey will usually be found in the angular space beneath the rims of the\\npots.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "Ill\\nHardy Perennial Plants.\\nAC.CNA MICROPHYLLA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native of New Zealand. In localities\\nwhere this species will thrive it will be found one of the best trailing\\ndwarf sub-shrubs. The flowers are inconspicuous, but the flower heads,\\non maturing, are covered with long, crimson spines, which give the\\nplant a very ornamental appearance. For a rockery few plants surpass\\nit in forming neat, compact masses. It is not particular as to soil. In\\nthis locality young plants are best put out in their permanent positions\\nearly in the Fall, as when put out in Spring they do not make sufficient\\ngrowth to insure a healthy, vigorous condition during the hot months.\\nIt is propagated by division and from seeds.\\nACANTHUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In warm spots, at least three of the species are hardy\\nwith us, but they bloom only sparingly. In one or two of the species,\\nbut notably in A. spinosus, the flower stalks have a handsome appear-\\nance for quite a while after the flowers are dead. A. mollis and A. m.\\nlatifolius were used for bedding in this city a few years ago. These\\nkinds are easily increased by division of the roots. Seeds are readily\\nobtained. The seedlings may be planted out in places where they are to\\nremain a few weeks after germinating. They are deep-rooting plants.\\nIn the colder parts of the country all of the species should have the\\ncrowns protected in Winter.\\nACHILLEA niLLEFOLIUn\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native composite, with large flat corymbs\\nof white, red, or purple flowers. The leaves are much divided. It is one\\nof the easiest plants to cultivate in the open border, spreading very\\nrapidly and flowering profusely. Large clumps may be divided with a\\nspade at any time during Spring or Autumn and replanted. It usually\\ngrows from one to two feet high.\\nA. ptarmica flore=pleno\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The variety of this known as The Pearl is\\none of the most desirable of hardy herbaceous plants, because of the\\nflowers, which are double and white. They are produced in great pro-\\nfusion if the plants get fair treatment. This Achillea should not be\\ndivided in Spring, for unless favorable weather conditions follow the\\noperation the plants will receive a check from which they do not thor-\\noughly recover the same season. If taken up and divided during the\\nfirst half of October, replanted and watered if necessary, they will de-\\nvelop working coots before freezing weather, and send up flowers the\\nfollowing season as if nothing had happened. Do not divide the plants\\ntoo closely, and if the ground in which they are growing is dry, water\\nwell before the operation and give another watering when the pieces are\\nreplanted.\\nOther varieties of A. p. flore-pleno are known as Snowball and Ele-\\ngans, all of them are white flowered.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "112 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nA. tomentosa is a dwarf, woolly-leaved evergreen, with yellow\\nflowers. Increased by division.\\nA. mongolica grows about 18 inches high, bears single white flowers.\\nComes into bloom early, and is used for cutting. All of the kinds need\\nfull sunshine.\\nACIPHYLLA SQUARROSA and A. COLENSOI-New Zealand umbel-\\nliferous plants, with dense rosettes of sharp-pointed leaves. In a young\\nand flo werless stage they are attractive, and may be used in Summer for\\nrockwork. In the colder parts the plants should either be lifted and\\nstored in a frame, or protected by a covering of some kind. Both are\\nraised from seeds sown during the latter part of February.\\nACONITUn (Monkshood)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the warmer parts of the country, where\\nthe Delphiniums will not thrive, some of the Aconitums will be found to\\nbe pretty fair substitutes, as they thrive moderately well where the sun\\nis only allowed to strike them through a leafy shade. If the soil around\\nthem is given a mulch of 2 or 3 inches deep, to preserve moisture, they\\nwill flower all the better for it. The species are very numerous and have\\na wide geographical range. A.napellusisthe best known; unfortunately\\nit is one of the most poisonous of cultivated plants, but hurtful only\\nwhen taken internally. Some of its varieties are A. n. album, flowers\\nwhite; A. n. longibracteatum, rich blue; A. n. bicolor, white and lilac;\\nA. n. Braunii, deep purple. A. ochroleucum and A. pyrenaicum have\\npale yellow flowers. A. napellus and its forms flower about midsum-\\nmer. A. Fischeri, a pale blue flowered native species, blooms late in\\nSummer. Propagated by division in Fall or Spring.\\nACORUS CALAMUS VARIEGATUS (Variegated Sweet Flag) is a\\ngrassy-looking plant, with finely marked leaves. It is well suited for\\ngrowing on the margins of artificial lakes; few other places will keep it\\nin a healthy state unless the soil be moist and partly shaded. It should\\nbe propagated by division of the rhizomes, as growth commences in\\nSpring. A. gramineus variegatus is an exceedingly handsome little\\nvariegated plant, growing only a few inches high. It will thrive in\\nmuch dryer soil than the first-named species. It makes a great number\\nof grassy-looking growths,, so that division is an easy matter at almost\\nany time.\\nADONIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The annual species, of which there are two\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A. aestivalis\\nand A. autumnalis are more commonly grown than the perennials of\\nwhich there are four. A. vernalis and A. pyrenaica are very elegant\\nspecies for borders or rockwork. The flowers are large, yellow the foli-\\nage much divided. They do best with slight shade. Propagation by seed\\nis a rather slow method. Large plants will best stand division in early\\nAutumn.\\n^THIONEMA CORIDIFOLIUn\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A slender, evergreen shrub, growing\\nabout 6 inches, suitable for edgings of borders or for rockwork. Very\\nreadily raised from seeds which should be sown in Autumn and the seed-\\nlings put out early in Spring. When in rockwork pockets give a mulch-\\ning of leaf soil or moss to prevent baking of the earth and to keep the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 113\\nroots cool. It belongs to the Nat. Ord. Cruciferge. Other good species\\nare 1\u00c2\u00a3. grandiflorum and M. pulchellum.\\nAQROSTEMMA (Lychnis) CORONARIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species and its varieties\\nare always satisfactory in the herbaceous border. They are very quickly\\nraised from seed, or by division. The foliage is silvery throughout;\\nthe flowers are rose colored; A. c. atro-sanguinea, crimson; A. c. alba,\\nwhite; A. c. hybrida, rosy crimson. They grow from one to two feet\\nhigh. Almost any kind of soil will suit them, but they must have full\\nsunshine.\\nA. flos-Jovis differs from A. coronaria, in having umbellate heads of\\nbloom, with the foliage narrower. The flowers are purple or scarlet.\\nAll of the above are useful plants for florists to handle. Sow the seed\\nin the Fall; keep in a cool house. As soon as the seedlings are large\\nenough prick off into boxes. They may be put out in a cold frame very\\nearly in the season. Or by sowing early in September the seedlings can\\nbe wintered in frames.\\nAJUGA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The creeping or stoloniferous species are much used as dwarf\\nplants for forming dense carpets, either on rockwork or in the open\\nborder. As they grow in dense masses they usually are self-supporting\\nduring the hot months. A. reptans var rubra has dark purple foliage.\\nA. r. variegata is beautifully mottled with yellow. A. genevensis is a\\nvariable species with dull red, white or blue flowers; does well in shady\\nplaces. All of the above are readily increased by division either in Fall\\nor Spring.\\nALTHL6A ROSEA (Hollyhock)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the tallest growing herbaceous\\nplants, also one of the showiest. It is what may be called an old-fash-\\nioned flower, and it is doubtful if there has been any improvement in the\\nsize and shape of the bloom for a goodly number of years. A host of\\nvarieties used to be kept true to name years ago; these were perpetu-\\nated by cuttings, divisions and grafting on roots; but now the best\\nsorts come tolerably true from seeds. The principal colors are white,\\nyellow, pink, red and purple. Seeds to produce flowering plants within\\na year should be sown as soon as ripe\u00e2\u0080\u0094 usually in August. Sow in a\\nbox of rather light soil and cover very lightly with screened moss. The\\nseedlings being large from the start should be put singly in small pots,\\nand as they get too large for that size, shift into two or three sizes\\nlarger. Keep them in a cold frame; give an abundance of ventilation in\\nfavorable weather so that they may become stocky and robust. The\\nground should be well prepared for their reception, otherwise they will\\nnot attain full size\u00e2\u0080\u0094 6 to 8 feet tall and only remain in bloom two or\\nthree weeks. The plants should be put out as early as the ground can\\nbe worked. Good kinds should be marked for seed as they bloom, and\\nextra good sorts may be propagated by any of the above mentioned\\nmethods.\\nALYSSUM (Madwort)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this genus there are several rockwork or\\nborder plants, which, in their seasons, make a good show while in bloom.\\nA. saxatile and A. s. compactum are Spring bloomers. The plants are", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "114 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nof a dwarf shrubby nature with grayish-green leaves and dense heads of\\ndeep yellow flowers. A. s. variegatum has the foliage marked with yel-\\nlow blotches, which, when the plant is out of bloom, renders it more\\nvaluable than the type as an ornamental plant during the Summer. A.\\ngemonense is nearly allied to A. saxatile, but is less hardy, and continues\\nlonger in bloom. A. rostratum grows about iy 2 feet high and blooms\\nlater than any of the above named. The species and forms are not par-\\nticular as to soil, usually growing very freely wherever planted. They\\nare easily raised from seed, which should be sown in August and the\\nseedlings kept in a light, airy position until large enough to be planted\\nout.\\nANEMONE JAPONICA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species and its varieties are late flowering\\nherbaceous plants, growing from one to two feet high, with large white\\nor pale rose-colored flowers, useful for cutting. The varieties are A. j.\\nalba, A. j. rosea and A. j. Whirlwind. Root propagation is the method\\nemployed, and it may be done at almost any season, but preferably in\\nearly Spring. Dig up some of the oldest plants, saving even the small\\nroots. Cut both large and small into pieces about 2 inches in length\\nand put in boxes of sandy soil, covering the pieces with an inch of the\\nsame material. Keep fairly moist and in a cool frame. When the roots\\nhave developed growths from 2 to 3 inches high put in 3-inch pots,\\nplunging these in ashes and keeping them covered for a few days. After\\nthe plants make a sufficient quantity of roots they should be put out in\\ntheir permanent quarters, where preparation should be made for them\\nin advance by having the ground deeply worked and well manured.\\nDuring Summer, both young and old plants should be heavily mulched\\nif the maximum number of flowers are expected from them. During dry\\nweather the plants, if neglected, are apt to stand still and throw up\\nonly a few feeble looking flowers, so it is important that they be kept\\nmoderately moist by mulching. Short grass, leaves, or half-rotted\\nstable bedding will answer. In this genus there are about 85 species,\\nseveral of which have numerous varieties. Most of them are desirable\\nplants, but some are weedy, and increase too rapidly in gardens.\\nA. alpina, a European species, grows about 18 inches high, forming\\nlarge clumps. The flowers are usually solitary, from 2 to 3 inches in\\ndiameter, white inside, purplish outside. There is a very fine yellow\\nflowered variety of this named A. a. sulphurea. Both kinds are slow in\\nmaking flowering plants from seeds.\\nAmong the slender, tuberous rooted section, A. Appenina and A.\\nnemorosa are early flowering dwarf species well suited for naturalizing\\namong deciduous, low-growing trees and shrubs, as they make most of\\ntheir growth before the shrubs andjtrees are in leaf.\\nANTIRRHINUM (Snapdragon)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties of A. majus have long\\nbeen grown as hardy perennials in Europe. In the northern and middle\\nparts the climatic conditions are more favorable for their growth in the\\nlate Summer and Autumn months, as they flourish best in a moist, cold\\natmosphere. In America, especially in the Middle and South Atlantic\\nStates, they are best treated as biennials, as the plants which survive\\nthe Winter are usually not in as vigorous a condition as could be wished.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "UARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 115\\nCuttings may be put in during October and given the protection of a\\nframe during the cold months. Or seeds should be sown late in Septem-\\nber to have good-sized plants by the following Spring. The tops of the\\nseedlings may be rooted quickly in the propagating bed of a cool house;\\nor they may be grown from the start with the view of flowering them\\nin pots, for which purpose they are entirely satisfactory. The principal\\ncolors are white, red, purple and yellow, several kinds having combina-\\ntions of two or more of these colors. A. asarina, from the south of\\nFrance, has a trailing habit; the leaves are grayish green and of a\\nclammy nature; flowers yellowish white. It thrives best in positions\\npartly shaded from the sun. It reproduces itself freely from seeds which\\nripen in abundance and may frequently be seen growing in the chinks of\\nshady walls.\\nAQUILEGIA (Columbine)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Hardy perennial plants with very showy\\nflowers. The colors include red, white, blue and yellow; often there are\\ntwo or more of these colors in the same flower. About 30 species are in\\ncultivation. There are numerous varieties, the results of hybridization,\\nfew of which, however, surpass the species in attractiveness as border\\nplants. The Aquilegia is so easily hybridized that it is almost impossi-\\nble to obtain plants from seeds true to name when two or more species\\nare grown near each other; even with two species apparently very dis-\\ntinct, such as A. chrysantha and A. flabellata, they readily mix, but the\\nprogeny has a very undesirable combination of colors in the flowers.\\nIt is always advisable to protect a few flowers of the desirable species\\nfrom the visitations of insects, so as to make certain of having the seed-\\nlings true. I have found the best way to do this is to flower a few\\nplants in pots and keep the blossoms covered with fine cloth while fer-\\ntilization is in progress. The seeds germinate irregularly when they\\nremain long out of the soil, but when sown as soon as gathered they\\nvegetate very freely, even in midsummer. Spring sowing is unsatisfac-\\ntory, because the seedlings do not make desirable growth during hot\\nweather, and often more than a year elapses before any flowers are pro-\\nduced. Sow in moderately light soil, and cover lightly with screened\\nmoss; keep in an airy, cool house. When the seedlings are large enough\\nthey may be pricked off into boxes, or round the edges of small pots of\\nsoil. Put them out in a frame when they are large enough to stand sun-\\nshine. If planted outside, where they are to flower, by the end of Sep-\\ntember they will make fairly strong crowns before cool weather sets in,\\nand in the following Spring will bloom strong and vigorous. Among\\nthe red flowering kinds we have A. formosa, A. californica, A. truncata\\nand A. canadensis; in white there are several, among the best being A.\\ncalifornica alba, A. flabellata, a dwarf-growing species with very orna-\\nmental foliage; A. coerulea alba, and A. vulgaris alba. The best of the\\nyellows are A. chrysantha and A. c. flavescens. In the blue-flowered\\nforms there is a large number to choose from: A. coerulea is a very satis-\\nfactory species; A. vulgaris coerulea, A. olympica are both good. In A.\\nglandulosa the sepals are blue and the petals white. Several of the spe-\\ncies and varieties are very easily forced into bloom, among them A.\\nflabellata. It is a trifle later in coming into flower than A. canadensis,\\nwhich usually is in full flower in this latitude by April 10. A. chrys-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "116 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nantha is later in flowering, but a hybrid between it and A. flabellata,\\nwith the last named as the seed parent, bloomed this season a week ahead\\nof A. canadensis. The color of this hybrid is a little puzzling; there are\\nseveral dozen plants and not a single specimen is different from the others.\\nThe petals are yellow, the spurs of which are the same color as the\\nsepals\u00e2\u0080\u0094 deep purplish blue. All of the plants are quite dwarf, resem-\\nbling A. flabellata in this respect. The Aquilegias have a habit of dying\\nout after the second and third year. Any species which it is desired to\\nincrease in the absence of seeds should be lifted, divided and replanted\\nearly in the Fall, so that the pieces may have a chance to become estab-\\nlished before Winter.\\nARABIS (Rock Cress)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Many of the species of Eock Cress are of no\\nhorticultural value and are seldom seen outside of botanical collections.\\nThree of them, however, are among the most desirable of Spring flower-\\ning plants, and may be found in nearly every garden of any size. They\\nare A. albida, A. lucida and A. alpina. A. albida is the best known; it\\nforms a dense carpet, the stems being long and wiry, with dense rosettes\\nof leaves at the ends. The flowers, which are pure white, are borne in\\ngreat profusion, almost hiding the foliage. A. alpina is not such a free\\ngrower, but is equally suitable for rockwork, especially the variegated\\nform. A. lucida is dwarfer than the other two this has also a varie-\\ngated form which, like the variety of A. alpina, should not be allowed\\nto flower. The variegated varieties should be propagated by division,\\nor by cuttings put in early in the season. The green-leaved kinds are\\nbest raised from seeds, treated in the same manner as recommended for\\nAubrietia.\\nARALIA (Fatsia) PAPYRIFERA is the rice paper plant of the Chinese.\\nIt is one of the noblest plants in cultivation for sub-tropical effects. The\\nleaves are palmately divided, supported by strong stalks from a stout\\ncentral stem. The whole plant has a grayish cast to it. In the North-\\nern States it stands the Winter if the crowns are protected with some\\nrough material. In a single season strong crowns will grow 8 or 10 feet\\nhigh. It is propagated by cutting up the rhizome-like roots into pieces\\nabout 3 inches long and covering them with moss or sand. Keep the\\nboxes containing the roots in a cool frame all Winter, introducing them\\ninto a little heat early in the Spring so as to have the plants large\\nenough to plant out by the middle of May. The flower is not the least\\nattractive part of the plant. In the Southern States the plant is in\\nbloom during the months of September and October; but in this latitude\\nit is usually unfolding when its career is cut short by cold weather. The\\ncolor is greenish white, the flowers being arranged in drooping panicles\\n2 to 3 feet in length.\\nARGEMONE (Devil s Fig)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Most of the species grown in gardens are\\nof annual duration. They will germinate outdoors late in Spring and\\ndevelop very rapidly into flowering plants. A. grandiflora is a peren-\\nnial with white flowers 3 to 5 inches in diameter, but not so free in\\nblooming as the annual species. It must be given a position in full sun-\\nshine. Seedlings should be pricked off into small pots as soon as the\\nseed leaves are developed, as the roots will not endure much disturbance.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 117\\nARMERIA (Sea Pink)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of the Sea Pinks A. vulgaris is the best known.\\nIt grows in dense low clumps, having narrow grass-like leaves. The\\nflowers are in close heads, on scapes only a few inches high. There are\\nnumerous forms of this species, with red, lilac, deep pink and white\\nflowers. A. cephalotes has much larger leaves than the above, and the\\nflowers, which arecleep rose, or crimson, are borne on very long scapes.\\nA. plantaginea is intermediate in size between the two first-named spe-\\ncies. The choicer varieties are best increased by division; the pieces\\nshould be potted in sandy soil in the beginning of October and kept in a\\nclose frame to encourage roots. All of the species are best raised from\\nseed. Sow late in Autumn, in a cool house, prick off the seedlings and\\nremove to a cold frame early to thoroughly harden off. In this section\\nwe put out plants of this class in the open ground as soon as it is in a\\nworkable condition, so that they may be well established before the hot\\nweather arrives.\\nASCLEPIAS TUBEROSA (Pleurisy Root)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of our most showy\\nflowered native herbaceous plants. It is deep rooting, and is frequently\\nseen growing luxuriantly in dry fields in positions fully exposed to the\\nsun, with the surrounding herbage almost withered. It is late in bloom-\\ning and valuable on this account. In removing plants from their native\\nplaces they should be taken only after they have completed growth. As\\nmany of the roots as possible should be saved, as the species dislikes\\nremoval. Raising plants from seeds is the most certain method of prop-\\nagation. As they grow but slowly in the seedling stage sow only a\\nfew seeds in a pot of rather firm soil, and allow the young plants to\\nremain in these pots for at least a year before planting out. When culti-\\nvated in gardens the blooming period is longer than is the case with\\nwild plants.\\nASPERULA ODORATA (Sweet Woodruff A slender growing plant of\\nthe Bedstraw family (Eubiaceae,) with pure white flowers in May. It\\nwill succeed in clumps if given a partially shaded situation, but as it\\nblooms only for a short season, and the foliage is not very attractive,\\nit is sometimes grown in a quite satisfactory way in company with other\\nplants, such as Vinca herbacea, V. minor, and even with varieties of the\\nEnglish Ivy when used for covering ground among shrubs and under\\ntrees. The flowers of the Woodruff appearing among the foliage of these\\nplants makes an exceedingly pretty picture. It is propagated by divi-\\nsion and from seeds. The leaves, when dried, have a very agreeable\\naromatic odor.\\nASTER (JTichaelmas Daisy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Nearly a hundred species and varieties\\nof these popular border plants are offered by some of the European\\nnurserymen. Many of the plants are indispensable for the ornamenta-\\ntion of the herbaceous border in late Summer and Autumn. They are\\nall of free growth and will thrive in ordinary garden soil without much\\nattention; but if the soil be worked deep, and well manured before plant-\\ning, the plants will show the results of it in the size and number of\\nflowers. These asters are best increased by division before starting into\\nactive growth. Of A. novi-belgii there are numerous forms, some of\\nthem only 18 inches high and from that ranging to a height of 6 feet.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "118 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nThe flowers are lavender or violet blue, rose and white; A. novae-angliae\\nis one of the best-known species, tall growing, with purple flowers; its\\nvariety, A. n.-a. rubra, bearing rose-colored flowers, should always be\\nincluded in a collection. Other good forms of this species are A. n.-a.\\nprsecox, crimson purple; A. n.-a. Woolston, light purplish blue, and A.\\nn.-a. pulchellus, violet blue.\\nASTILBE JAPONICA, usually known in gardens as Spiraea japonica.\\nThe Spiraeas belong to the Rose famliy, while Astilbe japonica is classed\\nwith the Saxifragas, but A. Lemoinei is said to be a hybrid between A.\\njaponica and a species of Aruncus, which is also a rosaceous genus. If\\nthis be the case then both plants must necessarily be closely related, and\\nif not of the same genus then they are of the same family. Astilbe ja-\\nponica is better known as a forcing plant than as a subject for the hardy\\nborder. It is best grown in partial shade, for when in sunny places,\\nunless kept supplied with water during dry spells, the foliage is apt to\\nsuffer before the close of the Summer. There are several fine varieties.\\nA. j. compacta has more compact panicles than the type. A. j. grandi-\\nflora is larger; A. j. variegata has a yellowish variegation; A. rivularis\\nmakes a splendid border plant in this section, growing to a height of\\n5 feet, and blooming late in the season. A. Thunbergii grows about 18\\ninches high, and is much used as a forcing plant. In the border it thrives\\nbest in heavy, retentive soil. All of the species are propagated by divi-\\nsion, in the early Fall.\\nAUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A low-growing, evergreen Spring-flowering\\nplant, forming dense cushions of growth and thickly studded with small,\\npurple flowers early in the season. There are numerous forms; some of\\nthe best are A. d. Hendersonii, more robust than the type, with deep\\nviolet-blue flowers; A. d. Eyrei, a free-growing form, and A. d. grseca, a\\nlarge light-purple flowered variety. Aubrietias are well adapted for\\nrockwork culture, as they like well-drained situations and rather light\\nloamy soil. They will stand full sunshine. The readiest means of prop-\\nagation is by seed which may be sown early enough to have the seed-\\nlings established before freezing weather; or, the old plants may be\\ndivided and potted in sandy soil, keeping them in a frame during Winter,\\nand planting out as soon as the weather will permit.\\nBAPTISIA PERFOLIATA is a native of the Southern States, and is but\\nseldom seen in cultivation. Owing to its beautifully arranged perfoliate\\nleaves it forms a striking object in the herbaceous border. In Washing-\\nton it is perfectly hardy, and ripens an abundance of seed yearly. They\\nare sown soon as gathered; kept in a cold frame they germinate the fol-\\nlowing Spring. B. australis grows from 3 to 6 feet high; the flowers\\nare blue. It seems to do best in deep sandy soil. Raised from seed. B.\\nalba and B. leucantha are white-flowered species.\\nBEGONIA EVANSIANA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This, the hardiest of the Begonias, is also\\nknown as B. discolor and B. grandis. It is a native of China, Japan\\nand Java. It is one of the species which form bulbils, or resting buds,\\nin the axils of the leaves. These bulbils, when ripe, fall to the ground,\\nand it is from them that the young plants grow late in the following", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 119\\nSpring. They come safely through a temperature of several degrees be-\\nlow zero, but just how much cold they will stand I am unable to state.\\nThe plants thrive best in the shade of dwellings, or anywhere except\\nunder the shade of trees, and in positions where direct sunlight reaches\\nthem during the middle of the day. The bulbils pass the Winter success-\\nfully fully exposed on the surface of the soil, but precautions must be\\ntaken to provide against rapid thawing and freezing. When the bulbils\\nare left to themselves they usually sprout too thickly together. The\\nweaker plants should therefore be thinned out, to give those which are\\nleft full opportunity to develop, otherwise their period of blooming will\\nbe short. To have plants early in bloom the bulbils may be harvested\\nshortly after the plants are done blooming, kept during the Winter in\\na bottle and sown in time to have the plants in 3-inch pots by the mid-\\ndle of May. Notwithstanding the many fine varieties of Begonias for\\nbedding, this is one of the best for borders which get the benefit of full\\nlight from the north.\\nBOCCONIA CORDATA (Plume Poppy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Probably the most imposing\\nin appearance of all hardy herbaceous .plants, making growths of from\\n6 to 10 feet high. The plant has a grayish green appearance. The\\nleaves are large and much cut up, or lobed. The flowers, borne in large\\nterminal panicles, are not showy, but they harmonize grandly with the\\nfoliage. The plant is well fitted for isolated positions on lawns, among\\nshrubs, or for large herbaceous borders. While thriving best in deeply\\nworked, fairly rich soil it will succeed in stiff and poor ground. Seeds,\\nof which a medium-sized plant will produce large numbers, are best for\\npropagating in large quantities. They should be germinated in April\\nand the seedlings potted off when small. The plant is also increased\\nfrom suckers, which are produced in abundance. It is a native of China\\nand Japan, and very hardy.\\nCALLIRHOE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A genus belonging to the same family as the Abutilon\\n(Malvaceae). C. involucrata, the most useful species, has long, trailing\\nstems, with fair-sized purplish red flowers in the axils of the leaves. It\\nspreads very rapidly during the Summer months. A good subject for\\nborders of moderate width. It should be propagated from seed. Old\\nplants need to be frequently renewed, as they seem to exhaust them-\\nselves, probably owing to their rampant growth. In C. i. linearifolia the\\nleaves are smaller a good form for the rockery.\\nCAMPANULA (Bellf lower)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The perennial species are nearly all desira-\\nble border or rockwork plants, but a few of them become troublesome\\nby increasing too fast. C. rapunculoides, when once it becomes estab-\\nlished on rockwork, is sometimes very difficult to keep under control.\\nNone of the kinds usually grown is hard to manage thriving in ordinary\\ngarden soil. They are propagated most freely from seeds. The best\\ntime for the operation is in late Summer, wintering the seedlings in\\nframes so that the plants may be in good condition for planting out\\nearly the following Spring. C. persicifolia and its forms are easily in-\\ncreased by division, which should be done after the flowering season.\\nThe species in cultivation range in height from 2 or 3 inches to several\\nfeet; but the rare dwarf kinds are seldom seen in America, nor do they", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "120 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nsucceed so well here as they do in the cool, moist countries of Europe.\\nOf the tall growing border kinds C. alliarisefolia reaches a height of from\\n2 to 3 feet; flowers white. C. medium, the Canterbury Bell, is a biennial\\nwhich, raised from seed one year, will flower the next. C. m. calycan-\\nthema has the calyx colored like the corolla, forming the well-known\\ncup and saucer arrangement. C. pyramidalis, although a perennial, is\\nbest treated as a biennial. In a young state it should be given the pro-\\ntection of a frame during Winter, and if the plants are raised from Spring\\nsown seed they ought to be large enough to Winter in 5-inch pots. A\\nfew should be kept for flowering in pots, as they make exceedingly hand-\\nsome subjects for the decoration of the conservatory in Summer. C.\\npersicifolia is the most useful florists flower in the genus. C. p. alba\\ngrandiflora has very large pure white flowers. C. p. alba coronata pro-\\nduces white cup and saucer-shaped flowers. C. p. alba-plena is double\\nwhite, and while it lasts it is one of the best Summer white-flowering\\nplants. There are also single and double blue-flowered forms. All of\\nthem grow about 2y 2 feet high. Plants which remain in the ground\\nover Winter will be benefited by a mulching around the crowns\u00e2\u0080\u0094 of leaf\\nsoil mixed with short manure. Of C. Trachelium there are double blue\\nand white-flowered varieties; height about 2% feet. C. grandis and C.\\ng. alba are both good; height 3 feet. C. Van Houttei, a hybrid form\\nwith dark blue flowers, grows about 2 feet high. Among the many\\ndwarf species C. isophylla and C. i. alba, blue and white, are trailers,\\nand where they succeed they may be used in baskets and vases, but they\\ndo not thrive in very dry soil. C. carpatica is probably the most popu-\\nlar of the dwarfs; it is a plant which throws up a great number of\\nstems, forming a dense mound of compact growth usually about a foot\\nhigh, and when in full flower it is one of the most attractive of hardy\\nperennials. There are several forms having blue, pale blue, lilac and\\nwhite flowers. C. c. turbinata is dwarfer than the type; very suitable\\nfor the front part of an herbaceous border, or for the rockery. C. rotun-\\ndifolia is rather an attractive species, but as a garden form C. r. Hostii\\nis an improvement.\\nCATANANCHE CCERULEA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A plant with grayish green, long, narrow\\nleaves, and blue or blue and white flowers borne on long slender stalks.\\nIt is of the easiest cultivation, and a desirable herbaceous plant. Sow\\nseeds late in the Fall and keep indoors; they will germinate very early.\\nPrick Off into boxes and remove to a cold frame when large enough.\\nCENTAUREA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this genus C. cyanus is the Cornflower and C. mos-\\nchata the Sweet Sultan. Both are annual in duration. Seeds will ger-\\nminate in the open ground. C. americana is another good annual species\\nwhich is sometimes grown for Summer cut flowers; the color is pale\\nrose. C. babylonica is a good species to plant in the back part of an\\nherbaceous border; the foliage is silvery white; flowers thistle-like,\\nbright yellow. The plant reaches a height of from 6 to 12 feet. Increased\\nby division during the latter part of March. C. montana is the peren-\\nnial Cornflower, blooming during the greater part of Summer. There\\nare forms with lilac, rose, red, white and sulphur colored flowers.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 121\\nCERASTIUM BIEBERSTEINH\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dwarf plant with a dense mass of\\ngrowths; flowers pure white: in bloom during May. The leaves are\\nvery woolly, giving the plant a whitish appearance all the year round.\\nIt stands our hot Summers better even than the well-known C. tomen-\\ntosum (Snow in Summer.) This is a species with smaller and lighter\\ncolored foliage. Both are used for edging in beds or borders. The\\nplants may be divided very early in the season with or without roots\\nand replanted with long stems, deep in the soil, well firmed, and kept\\nmoist until they begin to grow. C. Biebersteinii is easily raised from\\nseeds. 0. grandiflora is a green-leaved species well adapted for growing\\nin dense carpet-like masses over rocks.\\nCHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI (Wallflower)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A plant much grown in Europe,\\nwhere the climate is very favorable to its perfect development. In the\\nwarmer parts of America its period of blooming is but a short one. The\\nseeds are sown in April, and as soon as large enough the seedlings are\\nplanted out where they are to flower the following Spring. There are\\nmany fine double forms, some of which have varietal names. Double\\nflowering kinds can be raised from seed. The colors of the flowers are\\nyellow, and reddish brown.\\nCHELIDONIUM MAJUS FL0RE=PLEN0 (Double Celandine)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A reliable\\nplant for half-shaded positions in woods. It is especially at home\\namong damp rocks, growing in vegetable humus. In such positions it\\nwill reproduce itself from seeds. The double form is smaller growing\\nthan the single-flowered plant. The foliage of both has a bright green\\nappearance for the^greater part of the Summer.\\nCHRYSANTHEMUMS*\\nFor nearly ten months out of the twelve Chrysanthemums are so\\nlittle seen that when the flowers are in season they are eagerly welcomed\\nby the flower-buying public as a change from the blossoms of Spring\\nand Summer. There may be a change from the stiff and artificial look-\\ning flower, which is grown on single stems, to the more natural looking\\nspray with smaller flowers; but it is safe to say that the Queen of\\nAutumn will remain popular in some shape or other for a long time to\\ncome. Within the last ten years the cutlivation of this flower has made\\nrapid strides. The size of the blooms is due to this improved cultiva-\\ntion quite as much as to an improvement in the varieties by selection of\\nsports and cross breeding during that time. Many good kinds have\\nbeen raised, but these kinds, when grown according to old methods, do\\nnot show the wonderful improvement that is claimed for them. Indoor\\nbench culture and growing one flower to a plant is the means by which\\nthe flowers are developed to their utmost size.\\nStock Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Selected roots for this purpose should be heeled in on\\nthe bench of a house where they can be kept cool; a temperature high\\nenough to keep out frost is best. If such accommodation can not be\\nspared the next best place is a frame around which stable 1 bedding is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "122 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nbanked up level with the sash. Give abundance of ventilation in favor-\\nable weather and cover the sash when there is danger to the plants from\\nfrost.\\nPropagating for General Crop\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The ideal months for this operation\\nare April and May, as then the cuttings are in good condition and the\\ntemperature is not too high to make the operation a difficult one. For\\ncutting material the moderately thick shoots should be chosen, avoid-\\ning those which are very succulent, or those which are weak and show\\nlong spaces between the leaf joints. The short, stocky, soft growths are\\nbest, and should be preferred to all others. The early-flowered kinds\\nshould be given attention first. Put the cuttings in the sand bed, and\\nduring the rooting process a high temperature with a stagnant atmos-\\nphere should be avoided. When the roots are from one-half to three-\\nquarters of an inch long the cuttings should be potted, as their roots\\nweaken by a longer stay in the sand. Put in thumb pots, using soil a\\nlittle lighter than the regular potting compost and obtained by adding\\na small quantity of leaf soil. In this stage keep them in the same tem-\\nperature as that in which they were rooted until their roots show\\nthrough the ball of soil. They should then be removed to a cold frame,\\nstanding them on a bottom of sifted ashes. As soon as the plants show\\nsigns of needing a shift they should be put in 3-inch pots, and as a pre-\\ncaution against hardening of the stems they should be plunged in the\\nashes, and during excessively warm weather some leaf soil should be\\nthrown over the tops of the pots to help in keeping the roots cool.\\nPlanting may be proceeded with by the beginning of June for the early\\nflowering varieties, taking care that the plants are well watered before\\nbeing knocked out of their pots.\\nLate Flowering Plants\u00e2\u0080\u0094 To extend the season of some of the latest\\nflowering varieties till Christmas the cuttings should be taken late, and\\nas soon as rooted keep them in a growing condition to prevent the\\nwood getting hard. Growing points of previously potted cuttings make\\ngood wood, if they can be kept from wilting during the rooting process;\\nbut this operation is somewhat difficult after the middle of July. Too\\nmuch shade will cause damping and too little favors wilting, so close\\nobservation will be necessary to hit the exact conditions. The single-\\nleaf cuttings are easiest to root at this season. If the sand be rough\\ngrained and free from foreign material, have the leaf with the under sur-\\nface lying flat on the sand. Keep the plants shaded for some time after\\nthey are planted out. Very short stems are only avoided by supplying\\nconditions favorable to growth.\\nSelecting the Bud\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are two kinds of buds, known as crown\\nand terminal. The crown bud appears directly on the end of the shoot,\\nand is naturally the first seen. In some varieties, particularly the early\\nones, this is the proper bud to select to develop into a flower, but in\\nsome well-known kinds growers do not agree as to which is the proper\\nbud to select. There is no doubt, however, that with some soils, also\\nunder certain cultural methods, the proper bud to take under those\\nconditions would be the wrong one under others. The terminal bud\\nshoots are usually three in number and develop from the axils of the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 123\\nleaves below the crown bud. One of these bud shoots is allowed to\\nremain when a terminal bud is selected, and the other two pinched off\\ntogether with the crown bud. The terminal bud is the one selected in\\nthe large majority of varieties; it consists of the end bud, or that which\\nterminates the selected lateral shoot. Other buds will, in course of time,\\nappear in the axils of the leaves of this shoot; these must also be\\nremoved.\\nSpecimen Plants These are not grown so much as they were a few\\nyears ago, owing to the demand for pot plants beyond a certain size\\nbeing very limited. Plants which can be sold at a moderate figure give\\nthe best results, and for this purpose they can be grown with very little\\nattention, compared with pot-grown specimens, if they be planted out\\nin the field, and attention given them occasionally during dry weather\\nwith water and the cultivator. Pinch to produce bushy plants. The\\nnumber of times that pinching should be done must be governed by the\\nkind of plant wanted; if only a few stems one pinching may be sufficient.\\nIn September the plants should be transferred to suitable sized pots. If\\nprotected from the sun and given a moist atmosphere for a few days\\nafter the transfer they will show no bad results. Plants for pots are\\nalso grown on benches which have been occupied during the Winter by\\nCarnations. They are lifted and potted in time so as not to interfere\\nwith the housing of field-grown plants of Carnations. In either case\\nMay is early enough to start the plants. Specimen plants of the largest\\nsize are started from cuttings as early as December, and from that time\\non till the end of January. The cuttings should be fairly strong, and\\neither put separately in thumb pots or rooted in the sand bed. The\\nplants must never be allowed to go to rest, and should be kept in healthy\\nvigor from the start. During the Winter a position near the glass, in a\\nhouse running north and south, suits them well. The best plants are\\ngrown in the house from start to finish; but in this case they take a\\nlarge amount of space.\\nSoil\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Chrysanthemum is not fastidious as to soil, but being a\\ngross feeder at least one-fourth of the bulk of the soil should be of well-\\nrotted cow manure, the remainder, loam. Four or five inches in depth\\nfor benches is sufficient, and before the plants are put in position it is\\nmade firm by tramping, or, in the case of side benches, by pounding\\nwith a brick. If the soil is dry, give a good watering a day or two be-\\nfore planting. Syringing should be practiced several times daily while\\nthe plants are growing; this, together with full ventilation, will provide\\nperfect atmospheric conditions. Watering should not be overdone at\\nany time; the condition of the surface soil will readily suggest when the\\noperation is necessary.\\nVentilation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is a very essential item in the cultivation of the\\nChrysanthemum indoors. To one unacquainted with the exact atmos-\\npheric conditions under which the best flowers are grown in a green-\\nhouse, it would seem somewhat strange that a hardy herbaceous plant\\nshould be cooped up in a hothouse all Summer; but this is far from being\\nthe case, because with abundant ventilation top and bottom, and fre-\\nquent syringing, the house is kept in a more favorable state for their", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "124 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\ngrowth than one would imagine; and in the absence of sun the condi-\\ntions are much more favorable than outdoors. If there are no means of\\nside ventilation provided, panes of glass should be removed to let in all\\nthe air possible. The doors should also be kept open.\\nInsects\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The number of kinds which are troublesome are small, but\\ntheir representatives are numerous enough. There are several species of\\nAphis, which attack the young shoots; these pests must be combated\\nwith tobacco in any of its forms. Grasshoppers are also troublesome,\\nand they must be attended to individually. Caterpillars are best pre-\\nvented from appearing by catching the perfect insects in the shape of\\nmoths and butterflies as they appear in the house. When the eggs hatch\\nhand picking is the only eificacious means of ridding the plants of the\\ncaterpillars.\\nTypes or Races\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The varieties common in gardens are divided into nu-\\nmerous types. The principal ones are as follows: Anemone Type; this\\nhas the flowers single (all Chrysanthemums have single flowers, but the\\nso-called single flowers have the outer florets as they grow in a natural\\nstate; thatis, having long strap-shaped or tubular florets, usually called\\nray florets; the inner ones are shorter, more or less bell-shaped, yellow\\nin color, and are known as disc florets), with the disc florets raised in\\nthe center. They are regarded more as ornamental garden plants. The\\nPompon Type is not grown to the same extent in America as in Europe,\\nwhere they are principally used out-of-doors for early flowering. The\\nChinese Incurved Type is much grown as a flowering plant indoors.\\nThe florets curl gradually toward the center of the flower, forming a\\nglobular head. The Japanese InGurved Type is less incurved than the\\npreceding, but few authorities agree as to where the line should be\\ndrawn. The Reflexed Type, as commonly understood, has the florets\\npointing away from the center of the flower head, or, as the word would\\nindicate, curled in the opposite direction to those of the incurved varie-\\nties. The Japanese Types include the tubular and quilled varieties, but\\nthe boundaries of this\u00c2\u00bbtype are also continually shifting.\\nVarieties\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It would be useless to recommend a list for any particular\\nlocality. Soils differ to such an extent that those which thrive in one\\nplace may not turn out the same in another. Again, much depends on\\nthe customers as to predilection in color, etc. Careful observation will\\nquickly suggest the best kinds to grow. Cultivators are usually loath\\nto discard a good sort, even though it is an old one. Many of the kinds\\ngrown in England to-day originated 20 years ago; and in this country\\nmany growers could not fill the places occupied by some of the kinds\\nthey grew, which were raised early in the nineties.\\nRaising New Varieties\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There is nothing to hinder anyone from rais-\\ning new varieties. The operation is of the simplest, and may be accom-\\nplished as successfully by the beginner as by those who have been\\nengaged at it for years. Seedling raising is simply chance work. To\\ngo about the work take two good flowers of the same color, which for\\nsome reason are desirable to blend, shorten the ray florets so as to have\\nthe stigmas readily accessible. Transfer the pollen from the anthers of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 125\\none flower to the stigma of the other. Carefully keep them in a dry\\natmosphere until the seeds are ripe. Keep the seeds in paper, properly\\nlabeled as to parentage, then about the middle of March they can be\\nsown. The resulting seedlings will be almost certain to give some\\nflowers passably good, probably some as good as the parents, and pos-\\nsibly some even better. A great deal depends upon selecting the parents;\\nbut rules for this cannot be laid down, as the selection of apparently\\nunpromising parents will sometimes give good results, showing tha J\\nthe crossing of plants is little more than guess work.\\nOther Species of Chrysanthemum well worth growing are C. uligino-\\nsum, a tall growing plant, with large white flowers; very useful for cut-\\nting. It blooms late and must have a deeply worked, rich, moist soil to\\nbring the flowers to perfection. If planted in dry soil it remains dwarf\\nand unattractive. C. coccineum is better known as Pyrethrum roseum;\\nan early Summer blooming species, well worthy of extended culture.\\nHundreds of varieties of it are in cultivation. It is not a difficult plant\\nto manage, thriving in well-drained borders; or on rockwork the plants\\nare thoroughly at home. They are well suited for providing flowers for\\ncutting. There are double forms in white, pink, carmine, rose, lilac and\\nyellow. They are increased in Spring by dividing the plants into small\\npieces, and rooting in the sand bed of a cool house before potting. C.\\nleucanthemum is the Ox-eye Daisy of the meadows. C. parthenifolium\\naureum is the Golden Feather, used in filling beds or for borders in Sum-\\nmer. It is a hardy plant, putting on its gayest colors early in the sea-\\nson; but it is more satisfactory when raised annually from seeds.\\nCLEnATIS During July and August one of the most useful plants for\\nproducing white flowers is the herbaceous Clematis known as C. recta.\\nIt grows from 2 to 3 feet high and if in deep rich soil the quantity of\\nflowers to a plant is very large. In C. tubulosa and C. Davidiana we\\nhave two blue-flowered species from China. The last named is fragrant.\\nThey are reliable plants for the herbaceous border, growing about 2 feet\\nhigh. They are all increased from seeds sown as soon as gathered; also\\nfrom division of the crowns, and by cuttings taken from the plants be-\\nfore coming into flower.\\nCOREOPSIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 C. lanceolata and C. grandiflora are yellow-flowered\\ncomposites, much used for Summer cut flowers. Old plants may be\\ndivided, but they are best raised from seeds, and the young plants put\\nout early where they are to bloom. C. verticillata is of little service for\\ncutting, but owing to the finely divided foliage it is a desirable border\\nplant. Easily increased by division.\\nDELPHINIUn (Larkspur)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The species are numerous, most of them\\nbeing choice border perennials requiring deep, rich soil. They are propa-\\ngated principally by cuttings of the young growths in early Spring from\\nseeds sown about the beginning of March, and by division of the roots\\nwhen dormant in Autumn or late Winter. D. grandiflorum and D.\\nformosum have numerous fine varieties, which are much grown for cut\\nflowers.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "126 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nDIANTHUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Carnation Pink*\\nThere are nearly a hundred distinct species, many of which are in cul-\\ntivation. Most of them are desirable as border or rockery plants. They\\nusually make dense tufts of grassy-like growths. Nearly all have attrac-\\ntive flowers. D. alpinus and D. glacialis are true Alpine plants, seldom\\nseen in cultivation, and thriving indifferently. D. barbatus is the Sweet\\nWilliam. There are innumerable forms in cultivation. Good strains are\\nsecured from seed. D. caesius (Cheddar Pink) stands our hot Summers\\nwell\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a useful speciesfor the rockery. D. deltoides and D. d. alba (Maiden\\nPink), should be raised indoors during the Autumn months and planted\\nout early. A very free blooming species, D. petrseus (Rock Pink), grows\\nabout 6 inches high. D. plumarius is the parent of the garden Pinks, of\\nwhich there are many named double sorts in cultivation. They are prop-\\nagated by cuttings taken in the Fall; they root very readily in cold\\nframes. Care must be taken to plant them out before they start into\\ngrowth in the Spring. C. chinensis, the Chinese Pink, is a biennial, and\\nto have it at its best it should be treated as such instead of as an annual.\\nWhen sown in Spring the plants will flower during Summer, but not\\nnearly as abundantly as from Autumn-raised plants. The varieties from\\nthis species are numerous; all of the kinds are desirable, making very\\nhandsome border plants of moderate size.\\nDIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS.\\nThis is the species from which the Carnation of to-day has sprung.\\nVariation in the flowers, the result of continuous cultivation under arti-\\nficial and highly favorable circumstances, produced in the first place,\\nwell marked varieties; these variations were perpetuated by cuttings,\\nand from them by means of cross-breeding and from sports distinct\\nraces have been evolved, gradually showing a wider range of color and\\nhabit. In America the climatic conditions are peculiarly favorable for\\nthe development of the flower under glass, and little by little a race has\\nbeen obtained perfectly adapted to Winter production of bloom. Not\\nmany years have elapsed since the best cultivators of plants would have\\npredicted a short life for the Carnation raised under glass, and this\\nwould probably be the case were its entire life, or rather the lives of\\nseveral generations, spent in this way. But the utmost vigor is imparted\\nto the plants shortly after the cutting stage is passed by their cultiva-\\ntion out-of-doors for the best part of the Summer. Another very favora-\\nble means, which is without doubt highly instrumental in maintaining\\nand strengthening the vigor of the race, is the raising of new varieties\\nfrom seed. The development of the wonderful blooms of to-day, as rep-\\nresented in such varieties as Ethel Crocker, Mrs. Lawson, Genevieve\\nLord, Mrs. George M. Bradt, Jubilee, White Cloud and others too numer-\\nous to mention, dates back only a very few years, when the blooms\\nwere of very ordinary dimensions, stems weak and calyx often imperfect.\\nCultivation and environment have undoubtedly to be credited with part\\nof the success attained, but judicious selection and rejection are the pri-\\nmary agents which have been instrumental in producing those results.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 127\\nPropagating House and Benches\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The ideal propagating house is the\\nnorth part of a span-roofed house, with a partition of boards, leaving\\na space of about 4i/ 2 feet available for bench and passage way. The\\nlatter need only be wide enough for one to move about in comfortably.\\nThe floor should be made of concrete, so that it can be kept scrupulously\\nclean at all times. The length of the house should, of course, vary with\\nthe needs of the establishment. The bench should run close up to the\\nside of the house and the front part, or that nearest the passageway,\\nnailed up with boards, with a swinging door on leather hinges every\\nfew feet to increase or diminish the temperature of the sand by allowing\\nheat to escape. It is a good plan to have one of the ends hotter than\\nthe other, not necessarily for Carnations, but for cuttings of other\\nplants. Valves should be so arranged in the heating pipes of this part\\nof the establishment that the heat may be under perfect control to suit\\nthe various uses to which it may be put. When a specially constructed\\npropagating house is not available, a part of an ordinary growing\\nhouse, preferably the north side, should be selected for the purpose. The\\nconditions favorable to the process of rooting are: Sufficient humidity\\nto prevent the cuttings from wilting, and protection against the sun s\\nrays, which cause an evaporation of moisture from the leaves of the\\ncuttings greater than can be spared, owing to the inability of the cut-\\nting to replace the loss quickly from the moisture in the sand.\\nSand When there is a choice, a rather large grained sand and one free\\nfrom all impurities should be selected; from 3 to 4 inches deep will be\\nsufficient.\\nCuttings\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These may be put in any time during the Winter months,\\nbut February is the safest time for the ordinary crop. Those rooted\\nprevious to that month are apt to put on a spindling growth, owing\\nto root accommodation being necessarily of an unfavorable nature.\\nEestricted root room has a tendency to promote hardening of the stem\\nand firmness in the foliage, and while the Carnation is in reality an ever-\\ngreen shrub, it is a soft wooded one, and should be kept in a growing\\nstate from the cutting to the flowering plant. The cuttings are usually\\npulled from the plant; this is the worst possible method, because the\\nexceedingly delicate vessels in the immediate neighborhood of the break\\nare strained and displaced, according to the tension exerted in severing.\\nThey strike all right, evidently so, but they should be severed with a\\nknife.\\nriaterial for Cuttings\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this as in other matters, judicious selection\\nof the material to form future plants will go a long way in determining\\nwhether these plants will attain the maximum state in healthy vigor,\\ncombined with flower productiveness. It does not take a very experi-\\nenced Carnationist to tell at a glance whether the growths are flabby,\\nas a result of being forced in too high and humid an atmosphere, or crisp\\nand stocky, owing to having been subjected to favorable conditions.\\nGrassy growths at the base of the plant are avoided, as they show a\\ntendency to perpetuate this condition to a degree unfavorable to florifer-\\nousness. As the extra floriferous nature of a single branch of a tree or\\nshrub can be perpetuated by propagating from that branch, in like man-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "128 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nner the best material for cuttings is formed on the flowering branches of\\nthe Carnation. They are found in the axils of the older leaves, and\\nshould be taken when they are from two 2 to 3 inches long.\\nTreatment During Rooting\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The leaves of the cuttings are sometimes\\nshortened back at the tips, but this is immaterial, and the practice has\\narisen probably through a desire to have the batch look uniform in size\\nand to economize space. Each cutting should be dibbled in by itself, to\\ninsure perfect rooting conditions; but by making a cut in the sand with\\na small, flat trowel, guided by a narrow strip of wood placed and held\\nfirmly against the last row of cuttings (this precaution will prevent the\\nloosening of the sand next the cuttings by the action of the trowel), the\\noperation is hastened. The temperature should be from 50 to 55 de-\\ngrees at first, increasing to 60 degrees later on. After rooting has com-\\nmenced examine the cuttings so that potting or boxing maybe completed\\nbefore the roots get weak in the sand. It may safely be commenced,\\nwhen the roots are three-quarters of an inch long, and finished before\\nthey are over 1}4 inches. After the cuttings are potted, or boxed, keep\\nthem shaded for a time, gradually giving them the benefit of full sun-\\nshine and an abundance of air. Before planting out time they should be\\nremoved to a cool frame. The soil may be made up of loam, leaf mould\\nand sand.\\nPlanting in the Field\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this locality the plants are safe out in the\\nfield by the end of March, but climatic conditions are the only safe guide\\nfor different localities. The ground is previously prepared by manuring,\\nand plowing and harrowing, and the^ plants set out 15 inches apart\\neach way, or 15 inches apart and 3 feet between the rows, according to\\nthe method of cultivating. Let the plants be in the ground some time\\nbefore getting their first pinching. Cultivating must be assiduously\\npracticed during their stay in the field. It serves three purposes: Keeps\\nthe roots cool, prevents loss of water by evaporation, and discourages\\nthe growth of weeds. Flower shoots are nipped out as soon as they\\nappear until the plants have made sufficient growth, or a short time\\nbefore they are removed to their flowering quarters.\\nLifting and Planting\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is done at different seasons, sometimes\\nearly, but usually in September. In some soils it is difficult to lift with\\na ball; in others, easy. Some growers shake the soil from the roots,\\nno matter in what soil plants have been grown. As the Carnation is\\nrapid in forming feeding roots it is easy to understand why it is desirable\\nto have the roots entirely in the most favorable soil, such as that with\\nwhich the benches should be filled; but the safer and more logical\\nmethod is to have a moderate amount of soil accompanying the roots\\nfrom the field to the bench. When the plants are lifted without soil\\nclinging to the roots they should be protected from the drying influence\\nof the atmosphere as much as possible. As soon as lifted place them in\\na receptacle, from which they do not have to be removed until they are\\nplanted in the bench soil. Put the roots about the same depth in the\\nbench as they were in the soil from which they were taken make mod-\\nerately firm; water well and shade for the first few days. Use a shade\\nwhich is easily removed. A solution of freshly mixed Indurine may be", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 129\\napplied with a garden syringe; test it before applying to ascertain if it\\ncomes off easily, as it sometimes sticks on longer than wanted.\\nSoil This should be of a friable loam, mixed thoroughly some time in\\nadvance of using with one-fifth of its bulk of rotted stable manure. The\\ndepth of soil may be from 4 to 5 inches. The plants are given space\\naccording to the variety. In this connection it may be stated that a\\ngood place to look for the kind of flower common 25 years ago is on a\\nbench the soil of which is completely hidden by the plants. As much\\nfight as possible should be admitted to all parts of the plant, and it is\\nas important that air should have free circulation among the plants.\\nSupports The different methods are getting to be about as numerous\\nas the varieties of Carnations. A good circular wire support should be\\neasy to apply, easily removed and stored, give the minimum amount\\nof shade to the plants and be moderate in cost. Several of the designs\\non the market are satisfactory in all of the above particulars, excepting\\nthe cost, which, while as low as one could expect, is the only hindrance\\nto their use.\\nTemperature\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A minimum temperature of 50 degrees, rising during\\nthe day to 65 degrees, will be found the proper range for the best results.\\nThe humidity of the atmosphere must be greatest immediately after the\\nplants are benched to induce the formation of new feeding roots, gradu-\\nally reducing it when the plants show signs of having become estab-\\nlished.\\nSyringing In dull weather there is usually enough moisture in the\\natmosphere for the needs of the plants, so far as atmospheric conditions\\nare concerned. In bright, sunny weather, syringing should, of course,\\nbe more frequently practiced. No rules can be laid down for this, how-\\never, as much depends upon the nature of the floor of the house in the\\nquantity of moisture it gives off, together with the condition of the\\nbench soil. If the atmosphere be too dry, combined with dryness at the\\nroots, the foliage suffers to a certain extent, producing conditions\\nfavorable for the attacks of red spider, aphides and fungoid diseases.\\nTo strike the happy medium good judgment as the resultof close obser-\\nvation will be necessary.\\nFeeding\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The plants by their behavior will suggest the necessity for\\nthis. When manure is given in the liquid state it should be weak and\\napplied often rather than in strong doses at long intervals. Top-dress-\\ning with manures and fertilizers should be made the subject of careful\\nexperiment. It is not safe to follow given rules, as what may suit some\\nsoils will not act the same way with others.\\nDisbudding The lateral buds should be removed as soon as they are\\nlarge enough to be handled. If allowed to develop, they are simply a\\ndrain on the resources of the terminal bud; and, although they look\\nwell with the flower, still large flowers without them bring higher\\nprices.\\nVentilation is of primary importance at all times. The houses ought\\nto be closed only when the outside temperature is too.low to permit of\\nairing.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "130 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nVarieties The best varieties to grow in any one place cannot be\\npointed out except by experiment, as there is no variety which does\\nequally well in all soils. When once the best sorts for any particular\\nsoil are selected they should not be discarded until new and improved\\nor other kinds have been tested for at least a season.\\nCarnations to Follow Chrysanthemums\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Where Chrysanthemums are\\ngrown in large numbers on benches it is sometimes difficult to decide\\nwhat should occupy the space vacated by them. Carnations have been\\ntried with successful results. Boxes with easily removed sides and ends\\nare placed close together in the field, filled with suitable soil, and the\\nplants, six or eight, according to the width of the bench, put out in each\\nbox. On the approach of unfavorable weather the plants are given the\\nprotection of a frame until the indoor space is ready for them. The bot-\\ntoms of the boxes are of stout material, and when placed side by side\\non the frame work of the bench they may either be laid on the old bencfi\\nboards or take their place. Soil is added after they are in position, to\\nmake the surface level. If necessary, rested roses may be substituted\\nfor Carnations. Souvenir du President Carnot and Kaiserin Augusta\\nVictoria give good satisfaction by this method.\\nMARGUERITE CARNATIONS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These were introduced about eight\\nyears ago as Summer flowering Carnations. They are very free in\\nblooming, fragrant, and quite varied in color. To have an early crop\\nof flowers seedlings may be wintered in frames, and another sowing\\nmade early in March. In most places they may be safely put out in\\nApril.\\nDICENTRA SPECTAB1LIS (Bleeding Heart).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the most beauti-\\nful herbaceous plants in cultivation, flowering usually in May, splendidly\\nadapted for forcing. It is one of the first plants to push its growths\\nabove tbe soil. In some localities it is apt to suffer from late frosts.\\nThe time for propagating is just before the plant starts into growth.\\nDivision of the crowns is the most reliable method. Dig up the plants,\\nsaving every root; wash free of soil and preserve every piece of the plant\\nhaving a bud. Those pieces of the roots which are not necessary to the\\nbuds should be cut into lengths of about 3 inches and put in boxes, keep-\\ning them uniformly moist. While they will not all grow, a certain pro-\\nportion of them will pay for the labor. The divided pieces may be potted\\nor boxed, according to fancy, using sandy soil to induce a good growth.\\nPieces of the crown on which there is a number of buds, but not enough\\nroots to warrant further division, may be gently forced into growth,\\nand when the young shoots are of sufficient length, taken off and rooted.\\nD. eximia is not so tall growing as the above named; the leaves are\\nmore finely divided and the flowering period is much longer.\\nDICTAMNUS FRAXINELLA (Burning Bush)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A good, old-fashioned\\nborder plant, growing 2 feet in height, with spikes of red or white\\nflowers. The plants should be given a good permanent position, as they\\ndislike removal. Increased by seed.\\nDIGITALIS PURPUREA (Foxglove, Witches Thimbles)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the\\nmost stately of hardy perennials. The flowers, which are large and bell-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 131\\nshaped, are arranged in very long racemes. The color is usually rose\\nand white. Although perennial, it is generally treated as a biennial.\\nPlants are easily raised from seeds.\\nDODECATHEON (American Cowslip)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 D. media, the only species\\nwhich I have seen in a wild state, grows in shaded positions, but it\\nmakes most of its growth while the surrounding trees are leafless. The\\nsoil is composed largely of vegetable humus. Most of the species thrive\\nwell, but are not much grown in gardens; this is probably because their\\nperiod of bloom is short and the plants are apt to be lost sight of and\\nneglected when out of bloom. D. Clevelandii and D. Hendersonii are\\nCalif ornian species of great beauty. Many varieties of hybrid origin are\\ncultivated in Europe, but they are seldom seen in America. The seeds\\nshould be sown in places where they can remain undisturbed for at least\\na year, as after germinating little progress is made the first season\\nbeyond the formation of a root stock.\\nDORONlCun (Leopard s Bane)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Useful plants, with yellow, daisy-\\nlike flowers, blooming in May. D. plantagineum excelsum is one of the\\nbest. Other good kinds are D. austriacum, D. caucasicum and D. par-\\ndalianches. They should be increased by division in the Fall.\\nERPETION (Viola) RENIFORME\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very dwarf plant, covering the\\nground rapidly by means of runners, which are thrown out in great pro-\\nfusion. It blooms all Summer if given a shaded position on the rockery.\\nThe flowers are small, blue and white; very showy. It will thrive in\\nany kind of soil if kept slightly moist during dry weather. In the lati-\\ntude of Washington, D. C, it is perfectly hardy. It is increased by seeds\\nor by division.\\nFARFUGIUM GRANDE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This fine Japanese plant is now known as\\nSenecio Kaempferi aureo-maculata. It is among the best constitutioned\\nplants for the dwelling house. There is a beautiful kind with white\\nspotted leaves, which I have only grown for a couple of seasons, but I\\nsuppose it to be as hardy as the yellow spotted one, which, by the way,\\nhas stood outdoors at Washington, D. C, for the last 15 years. Old\\nplants, with numerous growths, will stand division best in early Spring.\\nGive the pieces a week in the sand bed previous to potting, in order to\\nstart new roots. They thrive well in a loamy soil, well drained. The\\npieces are potted after midsummer in a compost consisting largely of\\nleaf mould and sand, placed under cover of sash on the approach of cold\\nweather, to preserve the leaves in a fresh state, and brought indoors\\nwhen wanted to bloom.\\nFATSIA (Aralia) PAPYRIFERA (Rice Paper Plant)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this latitudethe\\nplants are annually killed to the ground, but they send up shoots in\\nSpring from the roots, which grow very rapidly, making very attractive\\ngrowths, sometimes 6 feet high, so that it may be treated as an herba-\\nceous plant instead of a shrub, which it really is in its native country\\nand in localities with mild Winters. Its habit of growth resembles to a\\ncertain extent that of the Castor Bean, but the plant is furnished with\\nleaves and retains them from the ground up all through the season.\\nPropagation is by pieces of the roots cut into lengths of 2 or 3 inches.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "132 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nThe operation may be performed any time late in Fall, or very early in\\nSpring. The roots should be put in boxes of soil and started into\\ngrowth in a greenhouse about the beginning of March. When potted\\nthey may be put in a cold frame early.\\nFERULA COHMUNIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This plant is grown principally for its very\\nlarge, handsome leaves, which are very much divided, giving it a\\nfeathery appearance. The leaves, which are sometimes 5 feet in width\\nand fully as long, are divided seven times, the leaflets being only one six-\\nteenth of an inch broad. The flower stalks attain a height of from 6 to\\n10 feet. It is one of the earliest plants to show above ground, some-\\ntimes pushing up the first leaves late in the Fall. After blooming, which\\noccurs about midsummer, it goes to rest, losing all of its leaves before\\nthe end of July. The seeds, which are ripened in great abundance,\\nshould be sown about the middle of March and encouraged to make all\\nthe growth possible before the resting period.\\nFRAGARIA INDICA (Rock Strawberry)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The flowers of this species\\nare bright yellow. The fruit is dark red and produced all through the\\nSummer and early Fall months. It sometimes increases so rapidly that\\nit becomes a weed.\\nFUNKIA (Plantain Lily)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A small genus of very handsome foliage and\\nflowering plants of the Lily family; most of them are from Japan. There\\nare numerous garden forms all well worth growing, as they make large\\nclumps, and the foliage is, in every case, ornamental. All the variegated\\nforms are well marked, preserving their leaves well all through the sea-\\nson, and thrive with little attention.\\nF. ovata has blue or white flowers and large, broad leaves. The va-\\nriety F. o. marginata has the foliage margined with white. F. lanicifo-\\nlia, one of the species most frequently met with, has short, narrow\\nleaves; flowers small, white, with a purplish tinge. This has several\\nprettily variegated forms. All of the kinds are propagated by division\\nof the crowns early in the season. If divided to single growths the pieces\\nshould be potted and kept under cover for a time to encourage growth.\\nThey thrive best in heavy, rich, loamy soil.\\nF. Sieboldiana is a strong -growing species, with large glaucous leaves.\\nThe flowers are white, tinged with lilac\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a very desirable species thriving\\nwell in sun or shade.\\nF. subcordata has very large, pure white flowers on long stalks. The\\nleaves are light green, but somewhat soft. In places exposed to full\\nsunshine the foliage is apt to suffer; it should therefore have partial\\nshade. Blooming late in the season, it is one of the handsomest herba-\\nceous plants in cultivation.\\nGAILLARDIA ARISTATA There are several handsome flowered varie-\\nties in cultivation. They are exceedingly effective border plants. Eaised\\nfrom seed in August or September.\\nGALAX APHYLLA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dwarf evergreen, the leaves of which are much\\nused by florists in forming backgrounds for floral pieces. It thrives well", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 133\\nin partial shade in the rockery. Increased by division before growth\\nbegins.\\nGENTIAN A (Gentian)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although these are among the most beautiful\\nof hardy plants they will not pay the florist to handle them. With one\\nor two exceptions the kinds which are so popular in northern Europe\\ndo not succeed in the Middle Atlantic States. Our hot, dry Summers are\\nagainst them. G. Andrewsii and G. saponaria are both natives. They\\nmay be planted in half-shaded situations, where their roots will pene-\\ntrate deeply.\\nGERANIUH SANGUINEUn\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species is about the only satisfac-\\ntory one in the genus for our hot, dry Summers. For rock work it is\\nprobably the best all-round plant grown. It seldom invades the terri-\\ntory of other plants, never looks weedy, and is in flower from early till\\nlate. The flowers are solitary, about l!/2 inches across, crimson. Prop-\\nagated by division, or from seed. The plant is quite hardy.\\nGYPSOPHILA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 G. paniculata is grown to a considerable extent for\\ncutting. The flowers are small, whitish, but produced in great profu-\\nsion, in large panicles. Increased by seeds. The seedlings must get all\\nthe light possible, as they are very liable to get weak if kept at all\\nshaded. G. prostrata is a very dwarf species suitable for rock work.\\nIncreased from cuttings in Spring or Fall.\\nHELIANTHUS (Sunflower)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The perennial species are, for the most\\npart, useful late blooming plants. In favorable positions some of the\\nspecies grow very tall. They are among the easiest plants to increase\\nby division. H. decapitatus, single flowered, usually grows about 6 feet\\nhigh. H. a. multiflorus varies considerably; in some forms the florets\\nare arranged like those in the anemone-flowered chrysanthemum other\\nforms have them of a uniform size. A most useful plant for supplying\\ncut bloom. H. orgyalis blooms in September. H. rigidus and H. mollis\\nare both good species.\\nHELLEBORUS (Christmas Rose)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are about a dozen species,\\nwith numerous varieties principally of hybrid origin. All of them are\\nwell worth growing because of their early-blooming nature. H. niger is\\nthe true Christmas Rose, which, under favorable conditions, will some-\\ntimes flower in December, and in colder parts of the country it comes\\ninto bloom after one or two genial days. H. n. altifolius has flowers\\nmuch larger than the type. H. colchicus, a species with deep purple\\nflowers, blooms early in March. H. orieutalis (the Lenten Rose) has\\nrose-colored flowers one of the best in this latitude. Among its many\\nvarieties H. o. guttatus is white flowered with purple-spotted sepals.\\nPropagation is effected by root division. Seeds of most of them are\\nfreely ripened. If sown as soon as gathered, and kept in a cold frame,\\nthey germinate well; but the seedlings take two or three years to make\\nflowering plants.\\nHEMEROCALLIS (Day Lily)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 H. fulva, the species so common in\\nwaste places all over the Eastern States, is not a native; but with H.\\nflava, less commonly seen, it has escaped from cultivation. H. graminea", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "134 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nis the earliest to bloom, opening during the latter half of May. H.\\nDumortieri has orange-yellow flowers tinged with brown. H. Midden-\\ndorfii is deep golden yellow. The rarer species are successfully raised\\nfrom seed sown in Summer as soon as ripe, and the young plants\\nallowed to remain in the seed boxes until the following Spring, when\\nthey may be planted out in rows to increase in size. The double flowered\\nand variegated forms of H. fulva should be increased by division. They\\nare all desirable border plants.\\nHEUCHERA (Alum Root)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this genus there are some twenty species\\nnative of North America, most of which are hardly worth cultivating.\\nThere is one, however, which is rightly considered as being among the\\nmost ornamental of late Spring blooming perennials; this is H. san-\\nguinea. It has long panicles of reddish pink or white flowers. Large\\nplants which show signs of weakness should be lifted, divided, and re-\\nplanted. They will need this treatment about oncein two years, as they\\nare inclined to get weak when they remain long in one place. October\\nis the best month for dividing. Seeds should be sown during March, in\\nthe greenhouse. The seedlings are quite small at first, and they should\\nbe allowed to make considerable headway before being potted off.\\nHEPATICA TRILOBA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 One of the earliest Spring-flowering plants.\\nIn their native habitats they are usually found growing on southern\\nslopes partially shaded by the foliage of trees and shrubs in Summer,\\nbut with the benefit of full sunshine when developing flowers and seeds.\\nOf the above species the varieties are very numerous, some of them hav-\\ning been long under cultivation in European gardens, where they are\\nhighly prized. H. t. rubra is bright red; H. t. alba, white; H. t. coeru-\\nlea, lilac. There are also double red and double blue varieties, the\\nformer being very common, the latter somewhat scarce. H. angulosa\\nis a distinct species, with very large, blue flowers. If allowed to remain\\nin the same position for several years they form very largeclumps. Prop-\\nagation of the varieties is easiest accomplished by division in Autumn.\\nIBERIS (Candytuft) The perennial species are in reality dwarf, ever-\\ngreen shrubs. They are attractive in appearance all the year round.\\nThey come in bloom the latter part of April and last till the end of May.\\nThere are about half a dozen species and varieties. I. sempervirens and\\nI. s. superba are the best; they grow from 9 to 12 inches high. I. sem-\\nperflorens is a taller growing species with large, pure white flowers. I.\\nTenoreana grows about 6 inches high. It blooms in May; flowers pur-\\nplish white. I. corretefolia has the flowers in flat, compact heads. I.\\ngibraltarica is the largest of all; the flowers are white tinged with pink.\\nIt is somewhat straggling in growth. I. g. hybrida is more compact,\\nwith the flowers at first white, changing to rosy purple. Although most\\nof the species produce seed freely enough the seedlings are of a straggling\\ngrowth for the first season. Much better plants are raised from good-\\nsized cuttings taken at the end of September, and put in sand, in a cold\\npropagating frame. If kept close and moist they will root well. The\\ncuttings, when rooted, should be put in 3-inch pots, and plunged in a\\ncold frame for the Winter.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 135\\nIRIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A large genus. There are upward of 100 species; the varieties\\nof some of them are numerous. The genus is divided into two sections.\\nId one section, known as Xiphions, the species have tuberous root-\\nstocks; one or two of them, such as I. reticulata and I. persica, produce\\nthe flowers before the leaves. Most of the species have thick rhizomes,\\nwhich creep along the surface of the soil, or a short distance beneath.\\nTo this section most of the very numerous garden varieties belong. They\\nare known as German Irises, but having been in cultivation for a long\\ntime, it is impossible to tell just from what species some of them have\\noriginated. The species which are commonly included among the Ger-\\nman Irises are I. neglecta, I. squalens, I. variegata and I. germanica.\\nNumerous varieties have sprung from each species, and from these there\\nare evidently many cross breeds. I. germanica is a handsome species.\\nI. g. alba is pure white, very early in blooming, and forces well. I; g.\\nvelveteen has dark purple falls and standards. The flowers of the\\nknown varieties of the I. phylla have a white ground, with the margins\\nmarked lavender and purple. Mme. Chereau is a well-known form.\\nI. plicata is white frilled with blue. The varieties of I. amcena have the\\nstandards usually white and the falls variously marked with violet blue.\\nIn I. variegata the very numerous varieties have the standards yellow;\\nthe falls are of a wide range of color dark yellow, maroon, dark purple\\nand crimson brown. The forms of I. squalens have the standards copper-\\nbronze and fawn colored, and the falls among other colors are maroon,\\npurple, bronzy-yellow, violet and lavender. I. pallida has lavender\\nstandards, and the falls of the same color shaded with rose. I. p. dal-\\nmatica is a very large and sweetly-scented flower\u00e2\u0080\u0094 one of the best in\\ncultivation; the standards and falls are deep lavender. In the varieties\\nof I. neglecta the standards range in color from lavender to purple, and\\nthe falls crimson, purple, violet, white and intermediate shades. I.\\nflorentina is almost pure white, and comes into flower from the 15th to\\nthe end of May. I. pumila, a dwarf species, is usually out of bloom early\\nin May it has many fine varieties. I. cristata is a native of the Eastern\\nStates, and is well adapted for half-shaded places in the rockery. It is\\nthe dwarfest of all the rhizomatous species. I. versicolor and I. pseudo-\\nacorus, although thriving under conditions which suit most of the gar-\\nden forms, will do better when the soil is continually moist. I. graminea\\nand I. sibirica are both worthy of cultivation; they have long, narrow\\nleaves, and small flowers. I. la-vigata, better known as I. Kaempferi,\\nwill also thrive in borders, especially when given a deep mulch of well-\\nrotted manure; but they show up to better advantage when grown in\\nfairly moist ground. This species is one of the latest to bloom it has\\nmany varieties, some of which are very large and showy. The expanded\\nflowers, when used for cutting, will not stand much handling; but the\\nbuds, when nearly full size, will open out when placed in water; in this\\ncondition they may be shipped long distances.\\nPropagation Most of the bulbous species are offered at reasonable\\nprices by dealers. The rhizomatous species and forms may be rapidly\\nincreased by division. Large masses may be reduced in size and re-\\nplanted early in March without interfering with the crop of flowers. In\\ndividing into smaller pieces, it is better to wait until the plants have", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "136 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\ncompleted their growth, when they may be cut in small pieces, heeled in\\nwhere they are slightly protected in Winter, and put in permanent posi-\\ntions in March or April. They will stand a rich soil, but should not be\\ndeeply planted, as they are then liable to decay during wet weather in\\nSummer and Autumn.\\nKINIPHOFIA ALOIDES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Better known as Tritoma uvaria (Torch\\nLily,) is an old-fashioned, border plant with long, narrow, dark green\\nleaves and tall spikes of flowers, at first coral red, changing to orange,\\nand subsequently to a greenish yellow. It is a native of South Africa,\\nand in localities where the Winters are severe it should, along with the\\nother species and varieties, be protected by covering the crowns with\\nhalf-decayed leaves or stable litter. K. a. maxima has larger flowers.\\nK. Macowani, is an orange-red flowered species. K. Leichtlinii is one of\\nthe tallest of the species. There are numerous hybrid forms, all of them\\ndesirable for the herbaceous border. They thrive best in deep rich soil, and\\nin fully exposed situations. Seedlings of most of the kinds may be\\nraised, but they are somewhat slow in making flowering plants. Old\\nspecimens are easily divided, and give good-sized pieces to start with.\\nLEONTOPODIUn ALP1NUH (Edelweiss)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although a native of the\\nAlps of Switzerland this plant thrives luxuriantly when planted out on\\nrockwork fully exposed to the sun. Seedlings are best raised in.Septem-\\nber and wintered in pots, in a cold frame. When planting out put some\\nflat pieces of stone around the bases of the plants.\\nLESPEDEZA BICOLOR, also known as Desmodium penduliflorum and\\nL. Sieboldii. The plant has a shrub-like growth, reaching from 4 to 6\\nfeet in height. The flowers, which are small and pea-shaped, are very\\nnumerously produced in long, pendulous-branched panicles late in the\\nseason. The colors are rose and white. Cuttings taken before the flowers\\nappear will root freely. They should be kept indoors to encourage\\ngrowth before going to rest. Old plants may be divided before starting\\ninto growth.\\nLINDELOFIA SPECTABILIS A low-growing borage-wort, with\\nhandsome, bluish-red flowers. It grows 12 to 18 inches high. It is a\\nvery reliable herbaceous plant, quite hardy and stands the sun well. If\\nseeds are sown late in Summer, the plants will bloom the following season.\\nLOBELIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The native species L. cardinalis and L. syphilitica are, in\\nthis latitude, much more satisfactory than any of the gaudy-flowered\\nforms of L. fulgens and L. splendens. Seedlings should be raised in late\\nSummer to provide flowering plants the following season. L. cardinalis\\nis among the handsomest of herbaceous plants; the flowers are bright\\nscarlet. It must have abundance of water w*hen growing. L. syphi-\\nlitica, a blue flowered species, will succeed well in a drier soil.\\nLYCHNIS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are numerous species in this genus which are desira-\\nble as border or rockery plants. L. vespertina flore-pleno has large\\ndouble white flowers; increased by root cuttings. When sown late in\\nAutumn and kept indoors, seedlings of L. fulgens and its varieties are in\\ngood condition for planting out by April. The scarlet Lychnis, L. chal-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 137\\ncedonica, is a midsummer bloomer; it should be lifted and replanted\\nevery second year. The double kinds are increased by division. The\\ndouble flowered variety of L. viscaria has an extended blooming period.\\nIt is an erect-growing plaDt, usually about a foot high, with rosy red\\nflowers. Best increased by division in early Spring.\\nL. coronaria (Agrostemma) This plant has silvery -gray foliage,\\nwhich in itself would be sufficient to insure a place for it in the herba-\\nceous border. The flowers, however, are exceedingly showy. The type\\nhas red blossoms. There are varieties with crimson, pink and white\\nflowers. Seeds should be sown in September; the seedlings pricked off\\ninto boxes and wintered in a cold frame. They should be planted out\\nvery early.\\nLYSIMACHIA (Loosestrife) Most of the species are of weedy growth\\nand increase rapidly. L. nummularia is the Money-wort or Creeping\\nJenny; useful as a creeper or for hanging baskets or vases. There is a\\nbeautiful form with yellowish leaves. L. clethroides is a handsome spe-\\ncies, growing from 2 to 3 feet high; the flowers, which are white, are\\narranged in long, drooping spikes. It is readily propagated by division.\\nLYTHRUM SALICARIA (Purple Loosestrife)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species grows from\\n3 to 4 feet highc The flowers are of a rosy-purple color. Increased by\\ndivision.\\nMERTENSIA VIRGINICA (Virginian Cowslip)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are several\\nspecies of Mertensia all worth cultivating, but unfortunately some are\\nnot so easily grown as M. virginica. This is by far the showiest species,\\nand if the conditions under which it grows in a wild state are imitated,\\nthere will be no difficulty in its cultivation. In Spring most of its\\ngrowth is made without shade that; is, before the trees are in leaf. It is\\nusually found in damp woods. In this locality its period of blooming is\\nfrom April 15 to the middle of May. It grows from 12 to 18 inches high.\\nThe leaves have a slightly glaucous hue; the flowers are arranged in\\ndrooping terminal clusters, reddish-purple in the bud, subsequently\\nchanging in the open flower to a beautiful light blue. It is one of our\\nhandsomest native plants. Propagated by division.\\nnONARDA (Horse Mint)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These plants, although not averse to\\nmoisture, will thrive in very dry soil. There are several species, and one\\nor two varieties common in gardens. The best known is M. didyma, a\\nspecies with bright scarlet heads of flowers. M. fistulosa has purple\\nflowers. M. f. alba is pure white. They are in bloom during midsum-\\nmer, and among the easiest plants to increase by division.\\nilORINA LONGIFOLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very choice perennial, reaching 2 feet in\\nheight. The flowers are produced in whorls arranged on a long stalk.\\nThe buds are white, changing later to pink and crimson. Seeds of this\\nspecies are easily obtainable. When sown in Spring they do not bloom\\ntill the following year.\\nriYOSOTIS (Forget=me=not)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this genus there are numerous species,\\nmost of which are of little value. M. dissitiflora and M. sylvatica are\\ncommonly cultivated. Seeds may be sown late in Summer to have", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "138 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nbushy flowering plants for Spring blooming. There are blue, white, and\\npink forms. In Washington, D. C, they are planted in the Public Gar-\\ndens, and along with Pansies they bloom during April and May. They\\nare sometimes effectively used among Hyacinths and Tulips, in well-\\nprotected spots, keeping up a good display of bloom until the time\\narrives for filling the beds with their usual Summer occupants.\\n(ENOTHERA (Evening Primrose)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Handsome plants for rock work\\nor border. CE. Lamarckiana grows to a height of 5 feet; flowers yel-\\nlow. It is biennial induration. CE. Fraseri is a dwarf species suitable for\\nthe rockery. CE. missouriensis has large yellow flowers on trailing stems.\\nCE. taraxacifolia is a trailer, with very large, pure white flowers, open-\\ning at night. Plants come up freely from self-sown seed. CE. eximia is\\na choice dwarf species, with very large white flowers. CE. amoena var.\\nrubicunda has the flowers deep rose colored; there are several forms.\\nAll of the kinds are raised from seed sown in September.\\nONONIS (Restharrow)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 O. rotundifolia is a very desirable dwarf,\\nshrub-like plant, with pea-shaped rose colored flowers. Kaised from\\nseed. A native of southern Europe.\\nONOSriA STELLULATUM V. TAURICUM\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dwarf, evergreen plant,\\nforming dense tufts of narrow hairy leaves. The flowers, which are\\nbright yellow, tubular, and 1% inches long, are arranged in branching\\ncymes. The plant is best propagated by seeds, and by cuttings of the\\nripened growths taken during the end of September. They must be\\nrooted cool.\\nOPHI0P000N\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Dwarf evergreen plants, with grass-like foliage. The\\nmost useful species is O. gracilis; it is used for planting in dense shade\\nwhere few other plants thrive. The leaves are narrow; flowers small,\\nwhite, followed by beautiful blue berries, which continue on the plant\\nall Winter. Increased by division in Spring. A. Jaburan is a taller spe-\\ncies; the variegated form is a handsome plant. O. japonicus has also\\na variegated form. Both of these are successfully propagated by early\\ndivision. In this locality they stand the Winters unharmed.\\nOROBUS (Lathyrus) VERNUS (Bitter Vetch)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species comes in\\nbloom during April and lasts only for a short time. The flowers on\\nopening are purple and blue, the purple changing to blue as the blossoms\\nmature. Seeds should be sown as 4 soon as ripe. As the plants make\\nbut little headway during the first season, they should be allowed to\\nremain in the seed pan till the following Spring. There are several\\nother desirable species, such as O. pannonicus, O. flaccidus and O.\\naurantius.\\nPACHYSANDRA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are only two species in this genus, both of\\nwhich are in cultivation. P. procumbens is a North American plant.\\nThe flowers are very inconspicuous, produced in March and April at the\\nbases of the stems made the preceding year. In. P. terminalis they are\\nsituated on the ends of the shoots. Both species are evergreen. P. ter-\\nminalis is of a brighter green than P. pachysandra. They are very use-\\nful for planting under trees; are deep-rooting and stand drought well.\\nIncreased by division.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 139\\nPAEONIA (Paeony, Peony, or Piony)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This genus is divided into two\\nsections or sub-genera\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Shrubby and Herbaceous\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the last-named sec-\\ntion is subdivided into three groups, with well marked botanical charac-\\nters. The double-flowering herbaceous kinds, which bloom during the\\nlatter part of May and in June, are varieties of P. albiflora. There are\\nhundreds of kinds in cultivation, varying in color from white through\\nthe different shades of pink to deep crimson. Their successful culture\\ndemands a deep and well-manured soil, with a heavy mulching of\\nmanure during the Winter and Spring months. The varieties of the\\nEuropean Pseonies come into flower several weeks in advance of the\\nChinese varieties. P. officinalis has double rose, red, and pinkish-white\\nforms. P. paradoxa fimbriata has double purple flowers. P. tenuifolia\\nflore-pleno bears medium-sized double flowers, bright crimson in color.\\nThe leaves of this species are of a feathery nature. It is one of the most\\ndistinct and handsome Pseonies in cultivation. There are several showy\\nEuropean species, some of which have numerous single-flowered varie-\\nties. They all bloom much earlier than the Chinese Pseonies, and are\\nuseful for the embellishment of the herbaceous border and for cutting.\\nP. anomala blooms during the first week in May; this sort is sometimes\\nsold as P. tenuifolia. The leaf divisions are fewer than in that species\\nand broader. P. a. insignis has crimson flowers. P. arietina is the\\nearliest species to flower, expanding in this locality by the end of April.\\nThere are about a dozen distinct varieties. P. Witmanniana is another\\nearly bloomer. .Of P. officinalis and P. peregrina there are numerous\\nsingle-flowered varieties. The Herbaceous Pseonies are increased by\\nseeds and by division of the crowns. The seeds are sown as soon as ripe,\\nso that they may germinate the following Spring. They should be\\nsown in a frame, and allowed to remain for a year before transplanting.\\nOld plants are best divided in October; except with rare kinds the\\ndivided pieces should be large. Plant deep enough to make certain of\\nthe crowns being well beneath the surface.\\nPAP AVER (Poppy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Herbaceous section of this popular genus\\nP. orientale and its variety P. o. bracteatum are the most important\\nkinds. There are several forms of each, varying chiefly in the colors of\\nthe flowers. Most of them are of different shades of scarlet, and very\\nlarge. The plants, according to variety, vary in height from iy 2 to 3\\nfeet. They bloom during May and June, according to locality. The\\nstock is best increased by seed. When the capsules show signs of ripen-\\ning they should be carefully watched, as they open at the top, and a\\nslight movement of the atmosphere will displace the seeds. Sow in\\nboxes soon as ripe, but not too thickly, so as to do away with the\\nnecessity of pricking off an operation which does not succeed as well\\nas could be wished. The seedlings will make sufficient headway to pass\\nthe Winter securely in a cold frame. During March bring into a cool\\nhouse, and when they show signs of growing pot off into 2y 2 or 3-inch\\npots, according to size. They should always be planted from pots, as\\nthey do not lift well.\\nP. nudicaule is a choice species with orange, yellow or white flowers.\\nThe double forms are often used as cut bloom. In the warmer parts of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "140 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nthe country the plants will succeed fairly well if they be raised from seed\\nsown during September, and either planted out late or wintered in a\\nframe and put out very early. In the colder parts plants are freely\\nraised from self-sown seed. It is a species which dislikes extreme heat.\\nPENTSTEMON\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The garden varieties are the offspring of P. gentia-\\nnoides and P. Cobaea. In localities where climatic conditions are favor-\\nable they are much prized. In this section they are short-lived, owing\\nto the extreme heat. There are many extremely handsome species. P.\\n(Chelone) barbatus and P. b. Torreyi will thrive almost anywhere, as\\nthey cover the ground with dense, short growths. The flowers are pro-\\nduced in panicles about 3 feet high; they vary in color from light pink\\nto carmine. The Pentstemons are very easily increased, at almost any\\ntime, by division.\\nPHLOX\u00e2\u0080\u0094 P. subulata (Moss Pink) is the parent of many beautiful\\nforms extensively used for the edges of borders and for rock work. In\\nApril they are covered with myriads of flowers close to the foliage.\\nAmong the white-flowered forms are P. s. Nelsoni, P. s. aristata and\\nP. s. nivalis. P. s. Vivid has rose-colored flowers with carmine center.\\nP. s. frondosa is a pink variety with dark center. Their propagation is\\nusually effected by cuttings a slow method. If the plants are kept sup-\\nplied with water during September they will emit roots at the bases of\\nthe principal growths, and during October these may be cut up and\\nheeled in on a sheltered border, potted, or removed to permanent posi-\\ntions, very early in Spring. Other desirable dwarf species are P. amcena,\\nP. reptans and P. divaricata. The well-known and deservedly popular\\nherbaceous Phloxes are divided into two sections, early and late flower-\\ning. The first or early blooming section is known as P. suffruticosa,\\nbeing varieties of P. glab^rrima suffruticosa. The late blooming section\\nis known as P. decussata, and among the species which have contri-\\nbuted varieties are P. maculata and P. paniculata. The varieties are\\nexceedingly numerous. In recent years some very beautiful forms have\\nbeen sent out. They stand well as cut flowers. The plants should be\\nlifted, divided and replanted every second year, as when they remain\\nlong without removal the panicles are small. Early in March is the\\nbest time for the operation. Cuttings may be taken from the plants as\\nthey start into growth and rooted in a temperature suitable for Carna-\\ntion cuttings. The growths will be much improved by a heavy mulch-\\ning of manure about the crowns during the growing season.\\nPHYGELIUS CAPENSIS is hardy in places where the mercury does not\\nfall lower than 10 degrees F. The trouble with this very desirable plant\\nis that it continues to grow during the Autumn months instead of going\\nto rest. The growth made at this period, however, furnishes good\\nmaterial for cuttings, which, if put in the sand bed of a cool house, will\\nroot in a few days. They may be wintered in a cold frame.\\nPHYSALIS FRANCHETTI\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The attractive feature of this plant is the\\nlarge red-colored calyx, enclosing a large berry of the same color. It is\\napt to encroach on other plants, so rapidly do the underground stems\\nspread.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 141\\nPLATYCODON GRANDIFLORUM (Chinese Bellflower)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An erect grow-\\ning plant, with flowers resembling those of the Campanula. P. g.\\nMariesii is a variety of dwarfer habit, and bears larger flowers. The\\nroots are thick and fleshy. Seedlings raised early in Spring sometimes\\nbloom late the same season.\\nPRinULA (Primrose)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are few of the species but what are\\nworth growing. Many of them, however, are unsuited to the climate\\nof the Eastern States, it being too cold in Winter and too hot in Sum-\\nmer. A few of the species and many of their varieties do well. P. vul-\\ngaris and the varieties with double yellow, red, purple, white, and lilac\\nflowers succeed well if they are given water during the growing period.\\nThey will even stand in almost full sunshine, but they thrive best in half-\\nshaded spots. All of them are best increased by division very early in\\nthe season. P. elatior is the Oxlip, and what is known as the Cowslip\\nis P. veris. The Polyanthus is a garden race, said to be a hybrid be-\\ntween the last-named species and P. vulgaris. The different varieties\\nare useful for rock work and for borders. A good selection of forms may\\nbe had from seed sown in Spring; but the plants will not bloom until\\nthe second year. Some of the Himalayan species do fairly well in this\\nlatitude if given a position shaded from sun in Winter and mulched in\\nSummer. P. denticulata and its forms are among the best. P. sikki-\\nmensis should be tried in damp, shady ground by the margins of lakes.\\nP. cortusoides Sieboldii produces pure white, crimson and lilac colored\\nflowers; very useful for cutting. The plants have creeping root stocks,\\nand thrive best when protected by a frame in Winter. In the Fall those\\nplants which are to remain in the open during Winter should be gone\\nover, and those which have their crowns above the surface of the soil\\nlifted and replanted, so that the roots may be protected.\\nRUDBECKIA (Coneflower)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Nearly all of the species are worthy of a\\nplace in the herbaceous border. A few of them are valuable for supply-\\ning cut flowers. R. speciosa(R. Newmanni) grows from 2 to 3 feet high;\\nthe color of the outer florets is orange-yellow, while those in the center\\nare almost black. P. maxima is a much taller species, valuable for cut-\\nting. R. laciniata attains a height of 4 feet. The variety known as\\nGolden Glow has large double yellow flowers; the best of all for cutting.\\nR. purpurea (Echinacea purpurea) has purple florets. Some of the spe-\\ncies are easily raised from seeds, but most of them may be divided freely\\nif the work is done before they make much growth in Spring.\\nSALVIA PRATENSIS This species has very long spikes of flowers in\\nbright blue, rose, and white. They flower in May, and are exceedingly\\nattractive. They all seed freely, and if sown early in the Fall, will\\nbloom the following Spring. S. azurea and S. a. grandiflora are tall-\\ngrowing species, with blue flowers. They are easily increased from cut-\\ntings in the Fall months.\\nSANGUINARIA CANADENSIS (Blood Root)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dwarf-growing native\\nplant that, in sunny positions, is one of the earliest to open its flowers,\\nwhich are pure white, about 2 inches across. It is increased from seeds\\nand by division.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "142 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nSANTOLINA INCANA (Cotton Lavender) is a dwarf, shrubby plant\\nwith silvery-white fragrant foliage. It will thrive in almost any posi-\\ntion with very little attention. Cuttings should be put in during the\\nfirst half of October; they will root in a cold frame.\\nSAPONARIA OFFICINALIS (Bouncing Bet. Naturalized over a wide\\narea in the United States. The flowers are usually double. S. ocy-\\nmoides is one of the best rockwork trailers. It passes the Winter with\\na mass of short growths near the crown; these, on the approach of\\nwarm weather, grow very fast, subsequently forming wide-spreading\\nmasses of light or dark pink flowers. S. o. splendidissima has rosy-\\ncrimson flowers. The plants are in full bloom during the latter part of\\nMay, with scattering flowers for a long time after. Seeds should be\\nsown in September, and the plants wintered in a frame. Early planting\\nis necessary.\\nSARRACENIA (Pitcher Plant)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the District of Columbia the only\\nspecies which does not stand the Winter out-of-doors is S. Drummondii.\\nS. purpurea is the hardiest of the number when plants are obtained from\\nNorthern sources. They should be planted in a mixture of peat, sand\\nand moss, and the surface given a coating of moss, which must be kept\\ndamp, especially during the growing season. Pockets of suitable soil\\nshould be made for them at the margins of artificial lakes and ponds.\\nSAXIFRAQA (Saxifrage)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The extremes of temperature in Summer\\nand Winter work havoc with the great majority of the species, especially\\nthose of the mossy and encrusted sections. S. peltata, a Californian\\nspecies, does grandly where it enjoys moist soil. The leaves are from 1\\nto 2 feet in length. The plant blooms during the latter part of April.\\nS. sarmentosa (Aaron s Beard), a Japanese species, has withstood the\\nWinters here for a long number of years. The foliage is handsome, even\\nin midwinter. There is a form with the leaves beautifully marked with\\ncreamy-white and red. The section to which S. ligulata belongs has\\nsome exceedingly handsome species, among which are S. purpurascens,\\nflowering in May. S. cordifolia, with bright pink flowers, is frequently\\nseen here peeping through the snow. S. crassifolia is another early\\nbloomer. All of them are easy to increase by division.\\nSCUTELLAR.IA (Skull=Cap)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A rather large genus, embracing stove,\\ngreenhouse and hardy species. S. macrantha is one of the best for out-\\ndoor use. The stems are at first procumbent, the flower spikes ascend-\\ning. Our hot, dry Summers suit this plant well. It blooms during\\nJuly and August. The flowers are purplish-blue, and are produced in\\ngreat abundance. It grows about a foot high. Increased from seed. S.\\njaponica does equally as well as S. macrantha; the flowers are much\\nsmaller. In S. orientalis the flowers are yellow; the plant grows from\\n9 inches to 1 foot high.\\nSEDUM (Stonecrop)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Many of the species differ from each other in\\nhabit; some of them are herbaceous plants. S. spectabile grows 2 feet\\nhigh, forming large and neat clumps; flowers pink. S. Maximowiczii is\\nan erect growing species, about 1 foot in height, with yellow flowers.\\nS. maximum, a very variable species, sometimes attains a height of 2y 2", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 143\\nfeet. S. Sieboldii is quite hardy in this locality; it makes a fine plant\\nfor pots or baskets, but it does not associate well with other plants in\\nthe same receptacle. S. acre, S. a. aureum and S.sexangulare form dense\\ngrowths from 2 to 3 inches in height. The yellow flowers are produced\\nin great abundance about the beginning of June their mossy-like growths\\nare attractive all the year round. S. spurium (S. stoloniferum has very\\nhandsome pink flowers, produced sparingly from midsummer till late in\\nFall. All of the species named are increased by division.\\nSEMPERVIVUM (Houseleek)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Dwarf succulent plants, well suited for\\ndry, exposed positions in the rockery. The hardy species are easily in-\\ncreased by division. S. tectorum is the species commonly grown. S.\\narachnoideum has small rosettes of leaves connected at the tips by a\\ncobweb-like formation. Other well known species are S. californicum,\\nS. Funckii, S. hirtum and S. soboliferum. They will thrive in almost\\nany kind of soil.\\nSILENE (Catchfly)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Among this very large genus there are three per-\\nennial species, each one growing only a few inches tall, which are among\\nour finest rockwork plants. S. Schafta has bright purple flowers; it is\\na very deep rooting species, and stands dry weather well, keeping in\\nbloom for several months. It can be raised from seed; or old plants\\ndivide well in October. Dig up the plant carefully, saving all of the\\nroots, and in dividing give each piece as much root as possible; put in\\npots and keep-in a cold frame for the Winter. S. alpestris is a neat\\ngrowing little plant with white flowers; easily raised from seeds. S.\\nmaritima forms a dense carpet of growth, the branches from a single\\nplant covering a large surface. The flowers are white and are rather\\nshowy; they last only a short time, however. The foliage is handsome\\nfor the greater part of the year, being very neat and of a whitish cast.\\nSeeds ripen in abundance; they should be sown early in September.\\nSPIR/EA (meadow Sweet, Goat s Beard)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are several very\\nhandsome herbaceous plants in this genus; all of them are of easy culti-\\nvation. They are best increased by division either in Fall or early in\\nSpring. S. aruncus is a variable species; the plant found in the Eastern\\nStates seems much more dwarf than the one commonly cultivated in\\nEuropean gardens. To grow this plant to best advantage it should be\\ngiven an isolated position. It usually attains a height of from 3 to 6\\nfeet, according to variety. S. astilboides is dwarfer than the above\\nnamed; flowers white, borne in dense panicles. S. filipendula is a valu-\\nable rockwork plant, the finely cut leaves remaining green all the year\\nround. The flowers, especially those of the double variety, are showy.\\nS. palmata is without question one of the handsomest flowered herba-\\nceous plants in cultivation, but unfortunately other worthless kinds are\\noften sold for it. The flowers are bright crimson, in large panicles; the\\nleaves are palmately five to seven-lobed. S. ulmaria (Queen of the\\nMeadow) has creamy white, very fragrant flowers. The plant grows\\nfrom 2 to 4 feet high, and, like all of the others, it delights in damp soil,\\nwith partial shade during midday. They are all best increased by\\ndivision.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "144 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nI\\nSTACHYS LANATA (Hedge Nettle)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This plant is a valuable one for\\nhot, dry situations and for planting under trees. The flowers may be cut\\noff as they make their appearance, as it is the foliage which is the most\\nornamental. The leaves are covered with a wood-like substance, im-\\nparting a whitish appearance to the plant. Increased by division at\\nalmost any time in Spring.\\nSTATICE (Sea Lavender)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Several species do well here as border\\nplants. They need sandy soil with a little peat or leaf soil added. S.\\nelata, S. eximia, S. tatarica augustifolia and S. latifolia are all good\\nkinds. They are raised from seeds.\\nTANACETUM VULGARE (Tansy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There is little in this subject to\\nrecommend it, beyond its habit of keeping green and fresh-looking during\\nthe Summer. It is a favorite cottage garden plant. The flowers and\\nfoliage are very fragrant. The variety with curled leaves is rather orna-\\nmental. Increased by division.\\nTHYMUS (Thyme)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 T. Chamaedrys lanuginosus and T. serpyllum are\\nwell suited for growing in dry and exposed parts of the rockery. They\\nare low-growing and wide-spreading plants, with small leaves and\\nflowers. T. s. vulgaris is the Lemon Thyme, a highly fragrant and\\nornamental plant, growing from 8 inches to 1 foot high. Well colored\\npieces of this should be rooted in Autumn; the other kinds are raised\\nfrom seed.\\nTIARELLA CORDIFOLIA (False nitrewort)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native species, well\\nsuited for shady spots in the front part of the herbaceous border, or on\\nthe rockery. It blooms early, and throws out numerous runners after\\nflowering, providing a ready means of propagation.\\nTRICYRTIS HIRTA (Japanese Toad=LiIy)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This curious but beautiful\\nplant is the latest of the hardy herbaceous plants to come in flower with\\nus. It usually blooms in October and November. During Summer the\\nfoliage is quite ornamental. The individual flowers, of which there are\\nmany on a stalk, are shaped like those of a lily, only much smaller. The\\ndivisions of the flower are pinkish-white spotted with purple. This sub-\\nject should be planted in moist soil, or where a mulch can be given, in\\norder to preserve the foliage till the blooming period. The plant divides\\neasily, or cuttings may be made from the flowering stems and put in a\\ncold frame late in the season.\\nVALL0RAD1A (Plumbago) PLUriBAGINOIDES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A hardy species, with\\ndeep blue flowers, growing to a height of one foot. It blooms from July\\ntill freezing weather. Propagation is effected by division. The plants\\nshould be lifted during the first half of September, the shoots shortened\\nback, and several pieces put together in 4-inch pots, saving as many of\\nthe creeping underground stems as possible. Keep plunged in a cold\\nframe for the Winter. If a large number of plants is wanted those in\\npots may be divided again during the end of April, and each piece put\\ninto a 3-inch pot. They will flower at the proper season if planted out\\nby the end of May.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 145\\nVERBASCUM (Mullein) V. olympicum is one of the handsomest of a\\nlarge number of species. It grows from 4 to 6 feet high. Although a\\nperennial, it is best treated as a biennial. The seeds should be sown in\\nAugust or September. It is a good plant for the back part of a sunny\\nborder.\\nVERONICA (Speedwell)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A large genus, including a number of shrubby\\nspecies, principally from New Zealand. There are only a few herbaceous\\nspecies which are worthy of a place in the garden, as the majority are\\nof a weedy appearance and last only a very short time in bloom. V.\\ngentianoides attains a height of 12 inches when in bloom. There is a\\nhandsome variegated form, the flowers of which should be removed, as\\nthis tends to induce growth at the base. V. incana has whitish foliage\\nand deep blue flowers; it is best raised from seeds. V. amethystina is\\none of the best of the tall herbaceous kinds, growing about 18 inches\\nhigh. V. taurica, V. Teucrium, V. prostrata and V. satureioides are first-\\nclass rockery plants, which should be increased by division early in the\\nseason.\\nVINCA (Periwinkle)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 V. herbacea loses its foliage in the Fall. In April\\nit makes short flowering growths, followed later by long vine-like\\nshoots, which take root at the extremities and form new plants. It\\nthrives well in full sun. V. minor, the commonest kind, has blue flowers,\\nalso double blue, double purple, single white and variegated leaved\\nforms. It is much used in planting among shrubbery and for covering\\nshady spots under trees. It will thrive in almost any position, and\\ntakes possession of the ground to the exclusion of most other herbaceous\\nperennials.\\nVIOLA (Violet)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 V. odorata is the parent of the numerous single and\\ndouble forms which are grown for their flowers in Winter and Spring.\\nPropagation is effected by cuttings and division of the old plants.\\nFrom the nature of the species the method of building up a plant from\\nthe cutting, or runner, is the surest way of obtaining free growing,\\nhealthy specimens. The plants send out runners, and those intended for\\npropagation should be allowed to develop to a certain extent. In the\\nlatter half of February, and during March, they are taken off and either\\ninserted in the sand bed of a cool house or dibbled in boxes of sand and\\nkept under conditions favorable to rooting. When rooted they are put\\nin 2-inch pots. After the roots show on the outside of the ball they are\\ngiven a shift into 3-inch pots and placed in cold frames, affording abundant\\nventilation and shaded either with naphtha and white lead, or with\\nlath slats. In this section the plants are given their Winter quarters in\\nJune. They are largely grown in frames from which frost is excluded\\nby banking the outside with stable litter level with the sash, and run-\\nning at least one 1^-inch heating pipe in the front or back part of the\\nframe. But even under those conditions the flower crop is not continu-\\nous during very severe weather. In planting in benches, or beds, the\\noperation is usually completed by June 15. Benches are used with\\nabout 5 inches of soil. Narrow and low-roofed, equal-span houses, run-\\nning east and west, with the benches as near the glass as possible, pro-\\nduce satisfactory results. Houses of the same order running north and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "!46 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.\\nsouth do not produce as many nor as good blooms during midwinter.\\nThe temperature is safe for the plants as long as frost is excluded, but\\n10 degrees above the freezing point should be the minimum for continu-\\nous flowering. In Winter the temperature may rise to from 55 to 60\\ndegrees. Airing must be carefully attended to so as to maintain a cool,\\ndry atmosphere. A hot, moist, stagnant atmosphere supplies perfect\\nconditions for weak, sickly growth, and is certain to encourage the\\ndevelopment of fungoid diseases. The soil should be loamy, mixed with\\nat least a sixth of rotted cow manure and a very small quantity of pure\\nbone meal. After planting the glass is shaded with turpentine or naph-\\ntha and white lead, allowing full ventilation. Water only when moder-\\nately dry. In August, or beginning of September, the plants should\\nget a shallow mulch of leaf soil mixed with dried horse manure. All\\nleaves which show the least signs of decay should be removed and\\nburned. During Summer, syringing should be attended to frequently, for\\nthe purpose of ridding tbe plants of red spider, their greatest enemy. For\\nthis purpose the water must be applied with considerable force to the\\nlower surfaces of the leaves. The plants can, however, be kept tolerably\\nfree of this pest if proper growing conditions are supplied, as red spider\\nis only found on plants which are enfeebled through some cause. When\\nsyringing is to be done it should be attended to in the early part of the\\nday, and in bright weather, so that ventilation may be relied upon to\\ndry the foliage before night\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a most essential item. For ridding the\\nplants of aphides, the use of hydrocyanic acid gas is much preferable to\\ntobacco in any of its forms, as it leaves no objectionable odor.\\nLeaf Spot\u00e2\u0080\u0094 When this, the most dreaded of the fungoid diseases,\\nappears, the leaves should immediately be picked off and burned, for by\\nbeing allowed to continue on the plant the fungus will ripen its spores\\nand spread to other leaves. It is present more or less in all houses, and\\nis only kept under control by supplying favorable conditions for the\\ngrowth of the plants. When grown outdoors or in frames without pro-\\ntection the leaves are apt to suffer from too much moisture in the shape\\nof dew. This condition is very favorable for the increase of spot. There\\nare several other more or less hurtful fungoid diseases which can only be\\nguarded against by giving the plants proper treatment, and their rav-\\nages curtailed by picking off and burning the infected parts. Very weak\\nliquid cow manure may be afforded occasionally if the plants are in need\\nof a stimulant.\\nHardy Violas Among the hardy Violas V. cucculata is the species\\nmost frequently grown in gardens. It often becomes a troublesome\\nweed, and keeps on producing apetalous flowers long after the long-\\nstemmed showy blooms are gone, and from the short-stalked apetalous\\nflowers large capsules of seed follow in almost every instance. V.pedata,\\nand its forms, are among the earliest of our native species to bloom. V.\\nblanda has pure white flowers, growing in dense tufts; this species\\ndelights in sandy soil.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "147\\nHardy Shrubs*\\nABELIA RUPESTRIS (Rock Abelia).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is one of the most pleasing\\nand satisfactory of all flowering shrubs. It is not reliably hardy north\\nof Washington, but for the Southern States it is equally as desirable as\\nthe Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia). In Washington, during the very\\nsevere Winter of 1898 and 1899, the Abelia escaped with only the ends\\nof the branches killed. It blooms from midsummer till frost. The\\nflowers are usually to be seen on the plants up to the end of November.\\nIt propagates freely from cuttings put in during October and November.\\nSelect them from the tips of the shoots; make them about 4 inches in\\nlength, put them close together in boxes of sand; place in the coolest\\nhouse and shade from bright sunshine. By the beginning of January\\nthe batch should be gone over, as by that time many of the cuttings will\\nhave rooted. Those which have a sufficient number of roots may be put\\nIn thumb pots in the usual way, but in cases where only one or two\\nroots appear the plants are best placed in the sides of the pots, as in that\\nposition they make roots more freely than when in the center. In a\\nshort time they will have made growth enough to be shifted into 3-\\ninch pots, and before the time comes when the houses are crowded with\\nSpring stock they may be transferred to the cold frame. This shrub, it\\nmay be added, is one of the very best for planting in cemeteries. Where\\nthe weather is not too severe it is evergreen; grows only to a moderate\\nheight and bears white flowers in great abundance.\\nACER PALMATUM and A. JAPONICUM (Japanese Maples). \u00e2\u0080\u0094Most of\\nthe Japanese Maples have very handsomely cut leaves, and especially\\nduring Spring and early Summer they are very highly colored. The\\nspecimens usually seen are from 3 to 8 feet high. The species from\\nwhich the varieties have sprung attain a height of 20 feet. All of them\\nare very hardy, and should be planted in sunny positions so that they\\nhave freedom to develop into symmetrical specimens. They should not\\nbe planted in shade, or even partial shade, on account of losing their\\ncolor early in the season. Some of the varieties known as A. palmatum\\natropurpureum, A. p. dissectum and A. p. sanguineum set seeds freely\\nand produce plants like the parents; these seedlings are much more vig-\\norous than grafted plants. From old plants of A. palmatum seedlings\\nare raised on which the finer varieties are grafted. Veneer grafting is\\nthe system most commonly employed.\\nAMORPHA FRUTICOSA (Bastard Indigo).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A pretty and interesting\\nshrub. The leaves are pinnate and at a distance have a feathery ap-\\npearance. The flowers, arranged in spikes, are very dark purple. It is\\npropagated by seeds, also by green or hard wood cuttings.\\nARALIA JAPONICA (Angelica Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This with A. Mandshurica and\\nA. spinosa, have very large bipinnate leaves and stout prickly stems.\\nThey are useful for permanent positions where a sub-tropical effect is\\ndesired. They are propagated by taking roots and cutting them into", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "148 HARDY SHRUBS.\\npieces about 3 inches in length, starting them during Spring, in sand or\\nmoss. A. pentaphylla is a dwarf shrub, with small palmate leaves;\\ndoes well in shade. It may be increased like the above, or from seeds.\\nAUCUBA JAPONICA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A dwarf evergreen shrub belonging to the Dog-\\nwood family. It is one of the most desirable evergreens for the warmer\\nparts of the country. While frequently hurt by late frosts in this\\nlocality, it is only the imperfectly ripened ends of the previous season s\\nshoots which suffer. In the Fall those shoots which are likely to get\\nhurt make good material for cuttings. They may be made quite large;\\npieces 8 or 10 inches long will root easily in the cold ^propagating house.\\nThe roots emitted from the cuttings are thick and easily broken, and if\\nleft lor any length of time in the sand bed, or boxes, after the roots are\\nabout 2 inches long, they are difficult to handle successfully. Some of\\nthe varieties of this plant are almost as handsome as the Crotons for\\ndecorative work, and as a berry-bearing plant it has not had the atten-\\ntion it deserves. The sexes are on separate plants. They flower early\\nin Spring. A branch of the staminate plant, when the pollen is in suita-\\nble condition, if carefully shaken over the pistillate flowers on a calm,\\nsunny day, will almost certainly insure a crop of the large, bright red\\nberries. In favorable situations the berries last in good condition\\nthrough the following Winter. Some of the better known kinds are A. j.\\naurea, A. j. albo-variegata, A. j. bicolor, A. j. latimaculata, A. j. macro-\\nphylla, A. j. ovata, A. j. longifolia, A. j. limbata and A. j. pygmaea\\nsulphurea.\\nAZALEA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The deciduous species and varieties, including the Chinese\\nspecies (A. mollis), and the Ghent Azaleas, which are hybrids between A.\\npontica, the American species, and A. mollis, are well-known flowering\\nshrubs. The species are raised from seeds, and the seedlings are used as\\nstocks on which to graft the finer varieties. It does not pay to raise\\nthese plants in small quantities as they are supplied by dealers at low\\nprices. The evergreen species include the well-known A. indica, several\\nof the varietias of which are successfully grown out of doors from New\\nYork southward. In Washington some large plants have stood out un-\\nharmed for over 20 years. A. amoena, an allied species, is probably the\\nhardiest of this section. The color of the flowers is a rich rosy-crimson.\\nFor pot culture it does not approach in beauty the forms of the Indian\\nAzalea, but for outdoor planting in the colder sections it is more to be\\ndepended on. The cuttings should be taken about the beginning of No-\\nvember; at that time numerous strong shoots with small rosettes of\\nleaves on the ends will be found above the main body of the bush. These\\nmake the best cuttings; lengths of about 4 inches will suffice. They\\nshould be inserted close together in the sand bed of a cool house. The\\nroots which they emit are exceedingly fine. Previous to potting, if\\nwatered well before lifting, a small quantity of sand will adhere to the\\nroots. The plants should be potted in the smallest-sized pots, using\\nfinely sifted sandy soil, with at least half of its bulk leaf mould or peat.\\nOwing to the low price of imported plants of Indian Azaleas, it is gen-\\nerally conceded that it is cheaper to buy than to raise plants. This is\\nno doubt true of the finer and slow growing kinds, which are propagated", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 149\\nby grafting on the strong growing varieties, and also on some species\\nof Rhododendron. This iff. done in Winter and also when the growth is\\nripe later in the year. Some of the strong growing forms, especially\\nthose having single white and red flowers, are, however, hardy, and\\nfor planting out they may be propagated by cuttings. Plants raised in\\nthis way have a more natural appearance than when grown as stand-\\nards, in which shape they are usually imported. The cuttings should be\\nput in the sand of a cool propagating house by the middle of August;\\nthe roots being small will need fine soil of a peaty nature for the first\\npotting. In this operation use clean thumb pots; put the pots in\\nwater before using so as to absorb as much as possible. Instead of\\nplacing the rooted cutting in the middle of the pot put it at the side;\\nthis will facilitate rooting. At the next potting it is an easy matter to\\nhave the plant in the center of the pot. In planting out-of-doors it must\\nbe remembered that they will not stand drought, so they must not be\\nleft to take care of themselves. The soil should be prepared to a depth\\nof at least 18 inches. It may consist of loam, leaf mould and sand, in\\nabout equal parts. The plants should be planted moderately close\\ntogether so that the foliage will keep the sun from the soil; but to\\ninsure moisture they should always be mulched during Spring and Sum-\\nmer, and frequently watered during dry spells. Digging, or deep hoeing,\\nshould never be practiced, as the roots are almost certain to be injured\\nthereby.\\nBERBERIS THUNBERGI (Barberry).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A Japanese species growing\\nfrom 3 to 6 feet high; by far the most ornamental of the deciduous\\nkinds. It is very symmetrical, seldom needing the aid of the knife to\\nkeep it in shape. It loses its foliage in the late Fall, but during the\\nWinter and up till the time when the new leaves expand, the bushes\\nusually present a very pretty appearance from the small but very\\nnumerous fruits. The readiest method of increase is from seeds, which\\nshould be collected when the leaves fall, gently rubbed between the\\nhands to bruise the covering, and sown in sandy loam, in shallow boxes,\\nmaking the soil firm. If placed in the cool greenhouse they will germi-\\nnate uniformly, and by the end of the first year they should be over a foot\\nhigh. This is a species well adapted for ornamental hedge work.\\nB. vulgaris is the common Barberry. It has rather ornamental yel.\\nlow flowers, in May or June, followed by bright red fruits, which\\nremain on the bush during Winter. There are numerous varieties; one\\nnamed B. v. atropurpurea has purple-colored leaves. B. amurensis var.\\njaponica and B. sinensis are also good deciduous kinds. Among the\\nevergreen species B. Fremontii, while tender further North, thrives well\\nhere. It has small glaucous leaves. Increased by Fall cuttings in a cold\\nframe. B. stenophylla has small, simple leaves. B. (Mahonia) pinnata\\nthrives here only in sheltered positions. B. (m.) japonica, B. (m.) nepa-\\nlensis, and B. (m.) aquifolium are all well-known evergreen shrubs,\\nthriving in this section even in the most exposed positions. The flowers\\nare produced early in the season, followed by handsome clusters of fruits\\nwhich ripen during the latter part of May and June. The plants are\\neasily raised from seeds.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "150 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nCALLICARPA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The species of this genus are grown solely on account\\nof their beautiful fruits, which are quite small, but produced in abun-\\ndance. The color of the fruit is bright violet. In northern latitudes the\\nbranches are apt to get Winter-killed, but new growths are produced,\\nand these flower and fruit the same season. C. purpurea and C. japonica\\nare the two species most worthy of cultivation. C. japonica is the\\nhardiest of all the species. Propagation is easiest accomplished by\\ntaking cuttings of the half-ripe wood and rooting them indoors.\\nCALYCANTHUS (Sweet Scented Shrub).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Of this genus there are four\\nwell-known species\u00e2\u0080\u0094 C. occidentalis, C. hevigatus, C. glaucus and C.\\nfloridus. The last named is the most common in gardens, and has\\nseveral varieties. They vary in height from 3 to 12 feet; C. occidentalis\\nbeing the tallest and also the most tender, sometimes suffers severely\\nin this locality. All of the species are prized by some on account of the\\nvinous fragrance of the flowers, which are dark claret in color. C. occi-\\ndentalis and C. floridus bear seeds freely, which take only a short time in\\ngerminating after being sown. The seeds may be kept m their capsules\\nduring Winter and sown in a frame during the first half of April. The\\nseed leaves are very large, disturbing the surface soil a good deal in\\nunfolding, therefore the seed should be sown thinly. The seedlings may\\nbe allowed to remain a year in their germinating quarters before being\\ntransplanted. Plants are also secured by layering the branches.\\nCARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS is unmistakably one of the finest\\nshrubs introduced in recent years. It was, and is, sometimes called the\\nBlue Spiraea, but it has no relation to that genus, as it is a near relative\\nof the chaste tree (Vitex) which is among those plants comprising the\\nVerbena family. The Caryopteris has been tried for several years, and\\nin Northern sections, owing to its being killed to the ground in\\nWinter, should there be treated more as an herbaceous plant than as a\\nshrub. In the latitude of Philadelphia and favorable positions farther\\nNorth it has come out all right through recent Winters. In Washington\\nbushes of it are now 6 feet high. It is one of the last shrubs to come\\ninto flower, opening out about the first half of September and lasting\\nseveral weeks. The flowers are produced in fair-sized heads in the axils\\nof the leaves on the shoots made during Summer; the color is bluish-\\npurple or white. Propagation can be carried on at any time during the\\nSummer or Fall, preferably during the latter season, for which prepara-\\ntions should be made some time in advance by cutting back some of the\\nstronger shoots to induce them to send out side shoots. The blind wood\\ncan be used during the flowering period. As soon as the cuttings are\\nready for removal from the sand they can either be potted or boxed and\\nstored in frames for the Winter.\\nCERASUS LAUROCERASUS.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Cherry Laurel can be depended upon\\nas a hardy shrub in ordinarily well-sheltered situations south of Mason\\nand Dixon s line. In the grounds of the Department of Agriculture and\\nin Capitol Park many old plants have stood almost unharmed in ex-\\nposed places for years. The late John Saul, of Washington, D. C, gave\\nthis plant a good deal of attention; during a long number of years he\\nmade a collection of all the varieties to test their hardiness. While some", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 151\\nvarieties suffered with the thermometer standing at 10 degrees F. three\\nor four were left untouched. C. latifolia. C. angustfolia and C. caucasica\\nare the hardiest. In situations which induce growth late in Summer, or\\nlate enough not to ripen thoroughly, the growths are almost certain to\\nget nipped by frost. This species is called the English Laurel; it is not\\nnative of England, but of the Levant. Propagation is effected by layers\\nor cuttings, preferably the latter, as they will root in pretty large pieces\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094over a foot in length. The rarer varieties should be grafted on stocks\\nof the common one. Cuttings will succeed any time after the wood is\\nripe; a piece of the wood of the preceding year attached will give all the\\nbetter results.\\nCERCIS JAPONICA (Red Bud, Judas Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species has lighter\\ncolored and larger flowers than either the American or European spe-\\ncies, C. canadensis and C. siliquastrum. Some of the original plants\\nbrought to this country from Japan are in the parks at Washington,\\nand seldom does a season pass in which the branches are not completely\\nhidden*by the flowers. I have never seen it ripen seeds, however, and\\ndo not know if it does so in other localities. It takes kindly to layer-\\ning. The other species seed very abundantly. C. japonica in this locality\\ndoes not grow over 8 feet in height.\\nCHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS (Calycanthus praecox).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The flowers of\\nthis shrub are produced on the wood of the previous year s growth long\\nbefore the leaves are developed. In this locality it often blooms during\\nthe end of January. It is not reliably hardy north of Washington, as\\nall of our plants were killed to the snow line during the Winter of 1898\\nand 1899. Previous to that time it had remained unhurt for a long\\nnumber of years. It is a trifle slow to increase from cuttings of the\\nripened wood, doing better from the half-ripe wood, with the foliage\\nattached. Large plants are secured in a short period by layering in\\nmidsummer. The species and its variety C. f. grandiflora are grown\\nsolely on account of the wonderful perfume emitted by the rather incon-\\nspicuous flowers. Cut in the bud state they open out well if kept\\nindoors with the stems in water.\\nCHIONANTHUS VIRGINICA (Fringe Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native shrub sometimes\\ngrowing to a height of 30 feet; but specimens will give an abundance\\nof bloom when only a few feet high. The flowers are disposed in droop-\\ning panicles, are pure white in color and very graceful. It is raised from\\nseed and by budding on stocks of Fraxinus ornus.\\nCISTUS VILLOSUS.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Plants of this species have survived the past two\\nWinters in Washington, during which we frequently had zero weather.\\nFor the Southern States, this and other species should be given a trial,\\nas they are very handsome shrubs, with large white or purple flowers,\\nsomewhat resembling a single rose. Cuttings root freely, under cool\\ntreatment, late in Summer.\\nCITRUS TRIFOLIATA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 As a dwarfing stock this is used extensively\\nfor budding and grafting the different varieties of oranges, and for a\\nhedge plant, one that will make an almost impenetrable barrier, scarcely\\nany other subject will answer so well. But its usefulness is yet by no", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "15 2 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nmeans exhausted. As an ornamental shrub it makes quite an effective\\nappearance early in the season, before the leaves appear, when covered\\nwith its pure white flowers, two inches in diameter. In late Summer\\nand Fall the branches are loaded down with its golden fruit. In the\\ngrounds of the United States Department of Agriculture several old\\nPlants in the fruiting stage attract great attention from Northern\\nvisitors. Its propagation is effected by seeds, of which there is a plentiful\\nsupply; sown in the Fall out-of-doors, every seed will germinate after\\ngood weater sets in. During some seasons this species bears two crops\\nof flowers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the first in Spring, the second along about the month of\\nAugust. The second crop of fruit fails to ripen before cool weather.\\nCLERODENDRON TRICHOTOMUM.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very handsome, free-flower-\\ning Japanese species, thoroughly hardy in the Middle Atlantic States;\\nfurther North, although annually killed to the ground, it makes strong\\ngrowths, and on these it blooms freely. The flowers are white with a\\ndark red calyx. Propagation is accomplished by cutting up and\\nsprouting the roots. The plant seems to delight in rather dry soil. In\\ndry weather, when other shrubs suffer for L want of water, this one is\\nalways fresh and green; but probably this is caused by the roots going\\ndeep into the soil. C. fcetidum is not so hardy as the above, but where\\nthe crowns can be saved it will flower splendidly from herbaceous\\nstems. It is one of the best shrubs for the Southern States. It sends\\nup many shoots from underground stems. To increase it in quantity\\nthe roots and underground stems should be dug up, cut in small pieces,\\nand started indoors early in Spring.\\nCORNUS FLORIDA (Flowering Dogwood).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Southern States this\\nDogwood grows sometimes 30 to 40 feet high; farther North it is a\\nshrub 10 to 15 feet high. The flowers are small, greenish-yellow; the\\nbracts are very large and pure white. It blooms in early Spring before\\nthe leaves are developed. In Autumn a well-fruited bush, with its red\\nfoliage, is a most beautiful object. C. f. rubra is a rosy-pink flowered\\nvariety of recent introduction, well worthy of cultivation; both it and\\nthe type should be planted in well-drained situations. They are increased\\nby budding and grafting on seedlings. C. sanguinea has dark red\\nbranches\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a very effective plant among other shrubs. C. candidissima\\nand C. mas are commonly grown, the former for its flowers, the latter\\nprincipally for its fruits.\\nCOTONEASTER MICROPHYLLA is a dense, low-growing, evergreen\\nshrub, with small leaves and bright red fruits that remain on the plants\\nthe best part of Winter. It is propagated best by taking cuttings,\\nabout 6 inches long, and rooting them indoors in August or September.\\nC. Simonsii is almost evergreen and perfectly hardy south of New York;\\nits bright red fruits is the main feature of the plant.\\nCRATAEGUS (Hawthorn).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There are numerous American species cul-\\ntivated as shrubs, or dwarf trees, the best of which are C. coccinea, the\\nscarlet-fruited Thorn, and C. crus-galli, the Cockspur Thorn. Owing to\\ntheir bright red fruits, often remaining a long time after the leaves fall,\\nthey are valuable decorative subjects. C. oxyacantha is the English\\nHawthorn; the many kinds grown, and which are known as varieties of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 153\\nthis species, make very symmetrical specimens. They are more florifer-\\nous than the American kinds. Some of the best are C. o. alba-plena,\\ndouble white; C o. punicea-plena, double scarlet; C. o. bicolor, pink\\nedged with white; C. o. rosea, pink with white claw. They are increased\\nby budding or grafting upon seedlings of the type. The seeds do not\\ngerminate until the second year from sowing, consequently they should\\nbe mulched in Summer to prevent drying out.\\nC. pyracantha is the evergreen Thorn. The fruits are the principal\\ndecorative feature of this shrub they are of a beautiful scarlet color,\\nremaining on the branches during Winter. C. p. Lelandi has bright\\norange-scarlet fruit a very ornamental and quick-growing variety.\\nCRYPTOMERIA JAPONICA (Japan Cedar).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 With us this is one of the\\nmost satisfactory of the evergreen coniferse. It looks well in a 5-inch pot,\\nand from that to a specimen 30 feet high. It varies very much, there\\nbeing nearly a dozen well-defined varieties. In the New England States it\\nis not thoroughly at home as a tree, and this condition is not to be met\\nwith until we get as far South as Maryland. As a pot-grown plant it\\nis very little inferior to the costly Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria ex-\\ncelsa,) and it can be gotten up in quantity at less than one-tenth the\\ncost of the latter. Cuttings root well if put in by the end of October, in\\na cool sand bed. They can be inserted large enough so that by the\\nmiddle of May following they will be ready to be shifted into 5-inch\\npots. Although plants raised from cuttings make the best furnished\\nplants for using in pots, seedlings, if grown on without a check, furnish\\nplants within a year from sowing, which will not look too small in 5-\\ninch pots. The seed should be gathered as soon as ripe, which it usually is\\nabout October 15, else there is danger of it being lost through the cones\\nbursting open, the seed falling out through a little disturbance of the\\nbranches. For sowing, prepare shallow boxes of firmly pressed soil\\nloam, leaf mould and sand in equal proportions will suit. Sow the seed,\\nnot too thickly, and cover with half an inch of screened leaf soil and\\nsand; put near the glass in a temperate house. They will germinate\\nthe first half of January, and can remain in the boxes, if not sown too\\nthickly, until the end of May. Pot off singly or three in a 3-inch pot at\\nfirst, using sandy soil. Keep in a growing temperature until they are\\ntoo large for small pots. The plants will stand in cold frames during\\nthe Winter in most places without hurt, other than a slightly yellowish\\ntinge to the leaves, but where they are wanted to make marketable\\nplants in as short a time as possible from the seedling stage, they should\\nbe kept in a cool house where, if suitable rooting conditions are provided,\\nthey will make rapid progress during the Winter months.\\nCYDONIA JAPONICA (Japanese Quince).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The common form will give\\ngood flowering specimens from seed. The finer varieties may be grafted\\non seedlings of the type. Cuttings of the ripe wood taken in the Fall and\\nstored till Spring are rooted successfully. It is also raised from cuttings\\nof the roots, from suckers and by layering. There is a form with varie-\\ngated leaves and pale flowers, also a pure white and double red. They\\nare among our most desirable hardy shrubs, coming into bloom along\\nwith the Forsythias and Jasminum nudiflorum.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "154 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nC. Maulei is a much dwarfer species, with reddish flowers produced\\nin great abundance. C. M. superba has the flowers of a deeper shade of\\nred. C. M. tricolor has the leaves variegated with pink and white.\\nPAPHNE CNEORUM.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A hardy dwarf evergreen trailing shrub growing\\nnot more than a foot high. It flowers in April and May; the color is\\ndull pink. It makes a neat symmetrical plant, with very sweet-scented\\nflowers. It is rather slow to increase from cuttings. The best method\\nof propagation is to layer the trailing branches in Spring, making an in-\\ncision, or tongue, in the under part of the stem. Have the cut part at\\nleast 2 inches under the soil; secure with wooden pegs; press the soil\\nfirmly over it, and cover with sphagnum to insure moisture. Leave\\nuntil the following Spring before separating from the parent plant. D.\\nBlagayana is also a desirable hardy trailing species, not so well known\\nas the above. D. Mezereum, a hardy deciduous species, is sometimes\\nused for forcing, more on account of the fragrant flowers than for their\\nappearance. It is raised from seed, and its forms grafted on seedlings of\\nthe type. D. odora, D. o. marginata and D. o. alba make very satisfac-\\ntory growth in sheltered positions out-of-doors here, but it may be\\nstated that the plants were imported direct from Japan. I have tried\\ngreenhouse-grown plants in similar situations with unfavorable results.\\nD. pontica and D. laureola are perfectly hardy here, but they do best with\\npartial shade in Summer. The last named is scentless.\\nDEUTZIA SCABRA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very free growing and handsome flowered\\nshrub from China and Japan. It blooms according to locality in May\\nand June. In Washington it reaches a height of 8 feet. It blooms on\\nshort growths made on the previous season s wood. D. s. crenata is a\\nform with smoother leaves than the type. There are several other\\nvarieties with double flowers more or less tinged with rose. D. c. Pride\\nof Rochester has the flowers large and double white. In the Northern\\nStates they should be planted in protected situations. It is among the\\neasiest shrubs to propagate. The cuttings are taken after the leaves\\nfall from the current year s growths; they should be tied in bunches and\\nheeled in moss in a cold frame. In early Spring they are put in boxes of\\nsand, with a little soil at the bottom, and kept in a greenhouse. When\\nrooted they are hardened off and planted out in rows, where they will\\nmake fair-sized plants before the growing season is over. These plants\\nmake splendid growth in tubs, and are easily forced into bloom for the\\ndecoration of large conservatories. D. gracilis has never been known to\\nsuffer from cold weather in this latitude, aud it is said to stand the Win-\\nter, when in sheltered positions, in the Northern States. As it blooms\\non short growths made on the wood of the previous season, the plant\\nwould be of no service where its branches are apt to get winter-killed.\\nIt is one of the grandest of our dwarf flowering shrubs, blooming in\\nWashington from the first to the middle of May, and growing from 2 to 3\\nfeet high. It is well suited for planting in cemeteries. For forcing into\\nbloom, it is an easy subject. The plants may be lifted from the open\\nground as late as the weather will permit. They lift with a mass of fine\\nfibrous roots, and should be potted before getting a chance to dry.\\nPlace them in a deep frame till wanted; put them in heat very gradually", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 155\\nelse there will be a tendency to have flowers without foliage. This\\nspecies is best propagated from green wood cuttings taken shortly after\\nthe plant is done blooming. Dull weather should be chosen for the\\noperation, as then the cuttings stand an almost certain chance of root-\\ning. Make the pieces about 4 inches long; avoid the thick, succulent\\ngrowths, taking only those which have most substance to them. Put\\nclosely together in the sand bed of a cool house, or frame, and shade to\\nprevent wilting. As soon as rooted, put in boxes or small pots until\\ntaken a little with the soil, then plant in rows outside, where they will\\nmake bushy little plants before Autumn. The next year after that in\\nwhich they are struck from cuttings will give plants large enough to go\\ninto 6-inch pots for forcing. D. Lemoinei, a hybrid between D. gracilis\\nand D. parviflora, is also a good subject for forcing. It is quite as free\\nin rooting as D. gracilis, and, along with D. parviflora, should be treated\\nin the same manner in the same propagating bed.\\nDIERVILLA (Weigelia).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 D. rosea is the best known of the species; it\\nblooms in May and June. As it is not particular as to soil or location\\nthe species and its varieties should be in every collection. D. r. flori-\\nbunda has dark red flowers with whitish stamens-^a very prolific\\nbloomer. D. r. Desboisii has deep rose-colored flowers. D. grandiflora\\nis a tall growing plant with large leaves and flowers. There are several\\nvarieties with white, red and pink flowers some of these give scattering\\nblooms throughout the Summer and Autumn months. D. rosea and its\\nforms force very easily. In its propagation, cuttings of the dormant\\nwood root quickly if put in gentle heat about the end of March, or the\\ngrowing tips may be used in Summer when kept in a humid atmosphere\\nduring the rooting process.\\nERICA (Heath).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These are attractive low-growing shrubs useful f OP\\nbordering those of taller growth. The cuttings taken from the tips of\\nthe current year s growth should be put in during late Summer. Few\\nflorists have just the proper facilities for rooting these and kindred\\nplants. The structure, a cool frame, should face north and will be all\\nthe better if in the shade of a house. The idea is to have the atmosphere\\nwhile rooting as moist and as cool as possible. Erica vagans is an\\nearly kind, as is also E. mediterranea; E. cinerea and E. tetralix are\\nlater in blooming. Calluna vulgaris (Heather), with the double and\\nwhite flowered kinds, are all good; they need peaty soil, or loam mixed\\nwith an abundance of leaf mould and sand, and should not be allowed\\nto get dust dry at the roots while in a young state.\\nEUONYMUS (Spindle Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Up till within a few years E. japonicus\\nwas among the finest of our evergreen shrubs in this section, but owing\\nto the ravages of a small scale insect the plant is now comparatively\\nseldom seen and will only thrive where severe measures are taken to\\nkeep it clear of the pest. Several forms have very handsome variega-\\ntions; their names are E. j. latifolius-aureus, E. j. aureo-marginatus, E.\\nj. albo-marginatus, and E. j. latifolius-albus. They bloom about the\\nend of July and usually ripen large quantities of seeds. The variegated\\nkinds are propagated by cuttings, put in about the end of October, in a\\ncool house or frame.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "156 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nE. radicans variegata is usually best known in its place in the shrub-\\nbery, but it is extensively used for a very different purpose, and that is\\nas a carpet bedder. For this work, to fill even a small space, a great\\nmany plants are necessary. In public parks and gardens the same\\nplants may be used several seasons, or the growing points may be\\nrooted afresh each Fall. The shoots are collected in bundles of 50 or\\n100 together, and with a strong knife they are cut to a uniform length\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00944 or 5 inches. The lower leaves are stripped and the cuttings put very\\nthickly together in boxes of sand, and placed in a cool frame, where they\\nroot freely.\\nEXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA (Pearl Bush).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The only fault with this\\nplant is its short blooming season, which is during the month of May,\\nbut it is exceedingly handsome while it lasts. It is a native of China.\\nAlthough sent out in the early seventies it is still by no means common,\\nowing to its propagation by the usual methods being somewhat diffi-\\ncult. In several localties it has ripened quantities of seed for several\\nyears, and when seed is obtainable no difficulty is experienced in raising\\nplants, as the seeds germinate very evenly. Severe pruning, such as this\\nplant is likely to get from cultivators, on account of the desirable sprays\\nfor cut flowers, evidently works against the setting of seed, for the\\nspecimens which have borne abundant crops of seeds in this locality are\\nthose which have never been touched by the knife. This plant was sent\\nout under the name of Spirsea grandiflora, which c!ings to it yet in some\\nplaces.\\nFORSYTHIA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Japanese shrubs, usually covered with bright yellow\\nflowers very early in Spring. There are two well-known kinds in culti-\\nvation. F. suspensa has long, drooping branches, while F. viridissima\\nis more erect in growth. Nothing in the shrub line is easier to increase.\\nAll that is necessary is to cut the previous season s growths into lengths\\nof 8 or 10 inches and heel them in deeply in a protected piece of ground,\\ncovering during hard weather with leaves or loose litter. November is\\nthe month for this operation. The cuttings will also root in a very\\nshort time, if put in moderate heat in March. Both kinds flower before\\nthe leaves make their appearance, a day or two of warm sunshine being\\nsufficient to bring them out. The plants should be pruned only after\\nthey are done flowering, as the flowers are produced directly on the\\nwood made the preceding Summer.\\nGORDON I A (Loblolly Bay).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These plants thrive in this locality when\\ngiven a deep, sandy soil and well supplied with moisture. They produce\\ntheir large camellia-like flowers from July till frost. They are propa-\\ngated by layering, allowing the layers to be well rooted before remov-\\ning. G. pubescens and G. lasiantha are the species grown. The last-\\nnamed has pure white flowers, about 4 inches in diameter.\\nHALES1A (Snowdrop Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 These shrubs, or small trees, are in full\\nflower before the leaves are fully developed. In this section H. Meehani\\nforms a very symmetrical, small-sized tree. H. diptera and H. tetrap-\\ntera differ from each other in the number of wings to the fruit. All of\\nthe kinds are raised from seeds, which sometimes remain in the ground", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 157\\nover a year before germinating. Seedlings of H. tetraptera are used as\\nstocks for the beautiful flowered Japanese Styrax.\\nHIBISCUS SYRIACUS (Shrubby Althaea) is a deciduous shrub of easy\\ncultivation, and needing very little attention after being planted beyond\\nan occasionally thinning out of the branches. Most of the numerous\\nvarieties are very neat and compact, growing from 5 to 12 feet in height.\\nThey bloom late in the season, when most of the other shrubs are out\\nof flower. The double-flowered varieties root easily from cuttings of the\\ndormant wood, in early Spring, or from green wood in Summer. The\\ncuttings from the ripened wood should be made in the Fall and heeled\\nin out of the reach of frost in moderately dry sand. They may be put\\nin rows in the open as soon as weather permits, or they may be rooted\\nindoors early and planted out later. Several of the single varieties come\\ntrue from seed, of which an abundant crop is usually produced. H. s.\\ntotus-albus is a useful single white variety and flowers when very small.\\nH. s. camelliaeflora is double white, with pink throat. H. s. Boule de\\nFeu, double, violet colored flowers. Other good double flowered forms\\nare H. s. Leopoldii flore-pleno, H. s. rubra pleno, H. s. purpurea flore-\\npleno and H. s. Jeanne d Arc.\\nHYDRANGEA HORTENSIS is the common garden Hydrangea, of\\nwhich there are numerous varieties, all of them being hardy in the Dis-\\ntrict of Columbia. Some are cut to the ground during Winter, but they\\nnever get injured permanently. H. h. Lindleyana and H. h. stellata\\nprolifera usually survive the Winter with the stems several feet above\\nground. These plants form very large specimens, and are very\\nhandsome when in bloom, changing in color, as the flowers mature,\\nfrom greenish white to a deep rose. The central flowers are fertile, the\\nouter ones sterile. H. h. japonica has one or two very handsomely\\nvariegated forms. Cuttings of these are apt to lose their leaves in the\\nsand bed, but in this condition they will root, making young growths\\nsimultaneously with the rooting process; and if they are carefully put in\\nvery small pots they will make fair-sized plants within a year. But\\nthey must be kept in pots during this time, as the roots are much\\nweaker than those of the green-leaved plants. The variety known as\\nH. h. aurea-variegata is probably the handsomest of our hardy plants.\\nH. h. otaksa has large heads of rose-colored flowers. H. h. ramulus-\\ncoccinea has dark colored stems and pink flowers. H. h. Thomas Hogg\\nhas pure white flowers. Cuttings will root any time after the shoots\\nare moderately firm. Where wood is scarce the large stems may be\\nsplit down the middle with a leaf to each piece. Where pruning is neces-\\nsary it should be done early in the season, to throw vigor into the\\nshoots springing from the base of the plant.\\nH. quercifolia, from the Southern States, opens its large pyram-\\nidal heads of flowers late in the season and is valuable on that account\\nalone; but the handsome foliage and its spreading, graceful habit com-\\nbined make it a most desirable shrub. It will thrive either in partial\\nshade or full sun. In propagating, the smallest of the ripened shoots\\nshould be taken with the leaves attached, placing the stems deep in\\nthe sand bed of the cool propagating house. If put in about the middle", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "158 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nof October, most of them will root by the end of February. Suckers,\\nwith small roots attached, may be lifted and potted in Spring. The\\nmost certain method is to layer the lower branches, allowing them to\\nremain at least a year before removing. Seeds are not always obtaina-\\nble, but they germinate readily in sandy soil covered with finely screened\\nsphagnum.\\nH. paniculata grandiflora is one of the best of the late blooming\\nshrubs. The flowers are creamy-white, in large pyramidal heads, ter-\\nminating the current year s growths. It comes into bloom, according\\nto locality, from July to September. It is grown both in bush and\\nstandard form. In propagating green cuttings may be taken during\\nthe first part of July. Select a dull day for the operation. Take those\\nshoots which are net too robust and only the ends; shorten back the\\nleaves one-third and put in sand\u00e2\u0080\u009ein a cool, humid atmosphere. Cuttings\\nof the dormant wood may be made 8 or 10 inches long and inserted,\\neither in the Fall, or kept heeled in, or buried in a cold frame during\\nWinter, putting them in rows in the open as soon as weather will per-\\nmit. Cover thinly with spent hops, or old manure, in either case.\\nHYPERICUM (St. John s Wort)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 H. kalmianum is the species most\\ncommonly seen in cultivation; it thrives in almost any soil and in a\\nsunny position. H. patulum, a Japanese species, forms a bush from 4\\nto 6 feet in height, in favorable situations. H. Moserianum is not so\\ntall as H. patalum, but the flowers are larger; both of them are apt to\\nbe hurt in Winter in exposed situations. Cuttings root quickly at any\\ntime during the Summer months. H. calycinumis one of the handsomest\\nand most useful of the dwarf evergreen shrubs. It forms dense clumps\\nof growths, not over a foot high, with very large, bright orange-yellow\\nflowers; much used for the front portions of shrubberies. Increase is by\\ndivision. In parts of the country where the Winters are too severe it is\\neasily protected by branches of evergreens, or rough stable litter.\\nILEX (Holly).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 I. aquifolium,the English Holly, is, unfortunately, ten-\\nder in the Northern States. Philadelphia is said to be the northern\\nlimit of its hardiness. Around Washington it is perfectly hardy, but it\\nis much shorter lived than our native species, I. opaca. Except with\\ncomparatively small specimens of the English species on which the fruit\\nis in larger clusters and brighter colored, the native one is to be pre-\\nferred for specimen plants. Several specimens in the parks here are\\nover 40 feet high, and not much inferior as berry-bearing plants to the\\nEnglish one. I. opaca is very common in a wild state in the woods\\nhere; but I have never seen what could be termed a presentable plant.\\nThey are generally found in the shade of other trees, conditions which\\nmake them scraggy looking. When grown in the open, in prepared\\nground, their appearance is quite altered the branches grow close to-\\ngether, and the outline of the tree is rather conical, not spreading as in\\nI. aquifolium. Ilex cornuta, from Japan, is a very satisfactory species,\\nbut the berries, of which there is a plentiful supply, do not ripen until\\nafter the time when they would be most welcome. The English species\\ntakes well on stocks of I. opaca. The operation should be done indoors\\neither before growth is active in Spring, or after the wood is fairly ripe", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 159\\nin August. I. opaca is more difficult to raise from seed than I. aquifo-\\nlium. A good method is to sow in a mixture of peat and sphagnum\\nmoss, made quite firm, and place in a greenhouse where it will get the\\nfull sun, keeping the mixture moderately wet. Plants grown for their\\nberries, or, in fact, for any purpose except for hedges, should never be\\nselected from seedlings, as there are two kinds, one with the female\\norgans, imperfectly developed, but with the stamens well formed bear-\\ning abundance of pollen they are the most abundant bloomers, but do\\nnot bear fruit. The other kind has fewer flowers, with the pistils all\\nwell formed and quite prominent in the center of the flower. The\\nstamens on the other hand seem imperfect in most cases, but doubtless\\nthere is enough pollen on them to fertilize the flower, as fruiting plants\\nset seed all right a long distance away from the pistillate plants. There-\\nfore, cions should always be selected from berry-bearing plants. There\\nis a variety of 1. aquifolium with yellow fruit which is desirable. There\\nare also many kinds with curiously-formed leaves, not so popular here\\nas they are in Europe. Ilex aquifolium flowers on the growths of the\\npreceding Summer; I. opaca flowers later, and on the current year s\\nwood. The outer covering of the seeds of Holly is quite hard, and often\\nthey do not germinate the same season as sown. If sown as soon as\\nripe, in very sandy soil, and care taken to keep them from drying out\\nduring the dry months of Summer, they will germinate the following\\nSpring. Sow the seed rather deep and cover with a mulching in Win-\\nter, which covering is easily removed when freezing weather is past. I.\\ncornuta, grown in company with varieties of the English species, does\\nnot come true from seed.\\nI. cornuta. It would be an interesting experiment were some of our\\nSouthern woodsmen to plant the Japanese Holly (Ilex cornuta) for\\nthe sake of its berried branches as a Christmas Holly along with the\\nEnglish (I. aquifolia) and the native evergreen kinds, I. opaca and\\nI. cassine. The last named is the prettiest of the three, but both\\nberries and leaves are small; the berries shrivel up too quickly and\\nsometimes fall off before they can be used. Ilex cornuta fruits more\\nfreely than any of the other species. In the vicinitv of Washington, by\\nthe middle of December, the berries are only beginning to turn red.\\nWhether this fault would appear where the flowers expand earlier\\nin the season I cannot say. A most noticeable feature in connection\\nwith the Japanese plant, the mentioning of which may be of use to\\nsome one some day, is that it bears a much more abundant crop of ber-\\nries when male plants of the English species are in the immediate neigh-\\nborhood. The hardiness of this plant is about the same as that of the\\nEnglish kinds, probaby a little more tender. I understand it can be\\ngrown as far North as Philadelphia. In Washington it stands the most\\nsevere Winters without hurt, and grows much stronger than the English\\nspecies.\\nITEA VIRGINICA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The cultivated form of this is much superior to\\nplants found in the wild state. It has long racemes of rather pretty\\ngreenish-white flowers. It may be propagated by division, or from\\nseeds which ripen freely. It usually grows from 2 to 4 feet high.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "160 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nJASMINUM NUDIFLORUM (Chinese naked flowered Jasmine).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This\\nmay be used either as a bush plant on the lawn or open border, for cov-\\nering walls or arbors, or for forming a light hedge. It is not particular\\nas to soil or situation, growing almost anywhere. Its flowers are pro-\\nduced during mild Winters. Beginning in December they expand as the\\nweather permits till April. Propagation is effected by putting in cut-\\ntings of the ripe growths out-of-doors in Autumn. Good-sized branches\\ncan be layered successfully. It is one of the easiest shrubs to root. J.\\nrevolutum, J. fruticans and J. floridum, all of them yellow-flowered spe-\\ncies, usually stand the Winters here. J. revolutum is the hardiest. They\\nare propagated by layering, and from cuttings of the ripe wood, kept\\nin a cool house over Winter.\\nJUNIPERUS (Juniper).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 J. sabina var. tamariscifolia is a most useful\\ndwarf, trailing evergreen, seldom growing over 18 inches high. J. pro-\\ncumbens is another species of creeping habit. Cuttings may be put in\\nafter the first slight frost. Where only a limited number of this and\\nother evergreen coniferous shrubs is required, the best method, I have\\nfound, is to fix up a few boxes, say about 4 inches deep, with sandy pot-\\nting soil at the bottoms and pure sand on top; make the cuttings about\\n6 inches long, half of which should be in the soil. Put them in fairly\\nclose together, and firm well. Give one good watering. Stand the\\nboxes in the coolest part of the house under the benches; keep moder-\\nately damp, and by Spring, if the conditions have not been unfavorable,\\na goodly percentage will have rooted. If not too close together they\\nwill take little harm from passing the Summer in the same boxes. The\\nkinds available for this method of propagation are Biotas, Cupressus,\\nThuja, Retinospora, Cephalotaxus and Taxus.\\nKALMIA LATIFOLIA (Calico Bush).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A native evergreen shrub grow-\\ning from Maine southwards. In the Northern States it is a bush, 4 to 8\\nfeet high. Further South it is frequently met with 20 feet high. It\\nblooms during May and June. It is cultivated much in the same way\\nas Rhododendrons; but under cultivation we seldom see the plants\\nflourishing equal to those in their native habitats. It is raised from seed\\nand from layers. K. glauca has lilac colored flowers, and whitish under\\nthe leaves; K. angnstifolia has purple flowers. All three are used for\\nforcing, imported plants being employed for the purpose. K. angusti-\\nfolia has lateral corymbs; in K. latifolia and K. glauca they are terminal.\\nKERR1A JAPONICA is a popular flowering shrub whichls not too par-\\nticular as to soil or situation. It attains a height of about 6 feet.\\nThere are three forms\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the double flowered, single flowered and varie-\\ngated leaved. They are all good. The variegated one keeps the color\\nin the leaves all through the season just as showy as in Spring; it usu-\\nally bears a crop of flowers, which are bright yellow, over an inch in\\ndiameter, along about the first part of May. This plant is capable of\\nbeing used as a hedge subject, as it stands clipping well. The other two\\nkinds are more profuse bloomers, especially the double, which is the\\nstrongest growing of the three. It is seldom without flowers all during\\nthe Summer and Fall. The plants are best propagated from ripe\\ngrowths during the latter part of August, indoors.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 161\\nK(ELREUTERIA PANICULATA is one of the very best small sized decidu-\\nous trees in cultivation such as florists are often called upon to suggest\\nfor small gardens and in places unsuitable or too small for the develop-\\nment of forest trees. The Kcelreuteria was certainly not named by any-\\none having its popularity in view, as I am inclined to think the long\\nname is responsible for the plant not being more common. There isn t\\na sufficiently taking popular name under which the species is known.\\nThe leaves are compound the flowers yellow, in immense panicles, well\\nabove the leaves; they are produced in June and July. The seed, which\\nis somewhat like that of the Canna, if sown in the Fall will germinate\\nthe following Spring. Stock is also got up readily from root cuttings.\\nLAGERSTRCEMIA INDICA, (Crape Myrtle)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Northern nurserymen, as\\na rule, do not handle this plant, owing to its being tender in the North.\\nHowever, it is hardy enough to stand zero weather; but wh\u00c2\u00abm the mer-\\ncury gets much lower the plant is apt to be killed to the ground. In\\nthe Southern States the Crape Myrtle is perhaps the best known of all\\nthe flowering shrubs, as there are few, if any, which exceed in beauty a\\nwell-developed specimen in full bloom. The flowers are bright pink and\\nare arranged in immense heads, even on one year-old plants from seed.\\nLarge specimens grown in tubs, and kept in a cool greenhouse, can be\\nmade to flower two or three times during the year by cutting back the\\nflowering branches. L. i. alba has pure white flowers, others are bright\\nand pale shades of purple, rose and red. It is hardy in this section and\\nis successfully grown much further North with a slight protection dur-\\ning Winter, for if the roots are protected with a covering of leaves, or\\nrough litter, they will sprout vigorously and bloom profusely before the\\nSummer passes. It is best propagated from seed, as all the colors come\\ntrue. Sow in boxes about the latter part of September, on very firm\\nsoil, covering the seeds with finely sifted peaty soil. They will germinate\\nin Spring, and if liberally treated some of them will bloom the same\\nseason. Young plants are always much more tender than those three\\nyears old and upward.\\nLAURUS NOBILIS (Bay Tree)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In sheltered situations this well-known\\nshrub occasionally survives the Winters in this section. It sometimes\\nmakes growths 6 feet long in a single season; these are necessarily soft\\nand ill-prepared to stand severe weather. During the Winter of 1898\\n1899 every plant was killed to the ground. Large specimen plants\\ngrown as standards and pyramids are imported for decorative pur-\\nposes. They may be had in good condition for several years by\\nattention to watering and keeping them indoors when there is dan-\\nger from frosts. Owing to their restricted root room there is little\\ndanger of their growing out of shape.\\nLIQUSTRUn (Privet)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this section L. japonicum is a very desirable\\nevergreen species with large leaves. During very severe Winters the\\nouter branches suffer considerably. I. Ibota, I. ovalifolium, and I. luci-\\ndum are very attractive-looking shrubs when in flower. The European\\nPrivet, L. vulgare, has small flowers and foliage, and is the hardiest of\\nthe number There is a form with glaucous leaves, the margins of which\\nare bordered with white. The deciduous species are among the easiest", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "162 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nshrubs to root from dormant cuttings. These may be put in as soon as\\nthe leaves fall. The evergreen species usually bear large quantities of\\nseeds, which are slow in germinating; when they remain in the ground\\nover Summer a mulching should be given to prevent drying.\\nLONICERA (Bush Honeysuckle)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 L. Standishii comes in flower before\\nthe leaves appear, usually in February and March. The blooms are\\nsweet-scented, but rather inconspicuous. In favorable seasons the orna-\\nmental fruit is ripe during the first half of May. Seeds sown in Septem-\\nber will germinate the following Spring. The branches may be layered\\nany time after midsummer. L. fragrantissima is almost an evergreen\\nspecies here; it blooms early in the season, the flowers are very fragrant.\\nIt forms beautiful specimens when not interfered with by other shrubs\\nand trees. It is best propagated by cuttings taken any time during a\\nwet spell in Summer, and rooted indoors. After this process they may\\nbe heeled in boxes of soil, and, afterward, either planted in rows outside\\nor kept in a frame till Spring. L. Albertii is a dwarf species with small\\nand narrow glaucous leaves and purplish flowers. L. Morowii and L.\\nKuprechtiana are both valuable on account of their handsome red fruit,\\nwhich ripens in great abundance. L. tatarica has numerous forms,\\ndiffering from each other in the color of the flowers and fruits. L. t.\\ngrandiflora has bright red flowers striped with white; L. t. splendens\\nhas the flowers dark rose; L. t. grandiflora alba is pure white. They\\ndo best in sunny positions and are increased by layering; also from\\nseeds.\\nHAGNOLIA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 All of the hardy species, some of which are fair-sized\\ntrees, are well worth growing. They may be divided into two sections\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094North American and Asiatic. Those of the former produce their\\nflowers after the leaves are formed, while the deciduous, Asiatic species\\nbloom for the most part on the naked wood, and very early in Spring.\\nM. grandiflora, an evergreen species, native of the Southern States,\\nbegins blooming here about the end of May and continues throughout\\nthe Summer. In this section it is hardy, but during Winter, when the\\nthermometer registers from 5 to 10 degrees below zero, the leaves are\\nalmost certain to fall, although without apparent injury to the plant.\\nNorth of here it has a struggle for existence. Seeds sown in Autumn\\nusually germinate in Spring. Seedlings are more vigorous than\\ngrafted plants, but they nevertheless take a considerable time before\\nattaining a flowering size. M. macrophylla, another native, is known\\nas the great-leaved Magnolia; it is much hardier than M. grandiflora.\\nThe leaves are from 2 to 3 feet long, and proportionately broad. The\\nflowers are nearly a foot across. It is easily raised from seed. In this\\nlocality its blooming period is during the last half of May and early in\\nJune. M. glauca, M. g. Thomsoniana and M. g. Watsoni are all desira-\\nble hardy* shrubs. The two last named have larger flowers than the\\ntype. Among the Chinese and Japanese species and varieties, M. stellata\\nis the earliest to come in bloom it is sometimes in full flower here by\\nthe middle of March. M. conspicua follows a week or ten days later;\\nthis is the finest of the Chinese species. As the large flowers expand\\nbefore the foliage it is indeed a conspicuous plant when in bloom. M.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 163\\nSoulangeana is thought to be a natural hybrid between M. conspicua\\nand the dark purple flowered M. obovata. This is probably the case, as\\nthe color of the flowers would indicate; moreover, it is later in bloom-\\ning than M. conspicua and earlier than M. obovata. M. Kobus is a very\\nshapely small tree, with small flowers which open early. It is used as a\\nstock for grafting purposes. The seeds are certain to germinate evenly\\nwhen sown as soon as ripe. M. Lennei is the showiest of the dark pur-\\nple-flowered kinds. The bloom is cup-shaped and very large; the petals\\nare dark purple on the outside, lighter within. M. stellata is sometimes\\nused as an Easter plant. When flowered in pots for this purpose it\\nshould be home grown, and plants selected for forcing which show the\\nmost buds. For forcing they may be potted in the Fall, but if the\\nground is in a condition to allow the plants to be lifted they can be\\nsuccessfully flowered a week or two afterward. Propagation is effected\\nby seed, budding, grafting, and layering. Stocks may be chosen from\\nM. Kobus, M. tripetala or M. acuminata. Layering should be practiced\\nbefore the plants are in active growth. The best season for planting is\\njust before the plants start into growth.\\nNEVIUSA ALABAHENSIS is called the Alabama Snow Wreath. This\\nname is a little misleading, as when in flower there is really nothing to\\nsuggest snow from the appearance of the bushes. The stamens are the\\nmost attractive part of the flower; they are greenish white. Propaga-\\ntion is by division of the old plants; they sucker very freely. Summer\\ncuttings can be depended on to root quickly.\\nOSMANTHUS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This genus belongs to the same order as the Olive\\n(Olea), under which the species are sometimes described. O. aquifolius\\nhas a certain resemblance to the English Holly (Ilex). The resemblance\\nis still more striking in the variety O. a. ilicifolius, one of the handsomest\\nevergreen shrubs outside of the Conifers. It has stood outdoors here\\nfor a long number of years. During very severe Winters it suffers very\\nlittle, and in protected situations not at all. O. a. myrtifolius is a form\\nwith leathery, spineless leaves, but is not such a free-growing shrub as\\nthe others. Of O. a. ilicifolius there are one or two handsome variegated\\nforms in cultivation, but they are less hardy than the green-leaved\\nvariety. They are easily propagated by cuttings, rooted indoors during\\nthe Fall months. O. a. ilicifolius seeds freely and the seedlings come\\ntrue; they do not germinate till the second year. Privet stocks are used\\non which to graft the variegated forms.\\nPi\u00e2\u0082\u00acONIA nOUTAN (Shrubby Pseonia)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The shrubby Peeonies are varie-\\nties of this species. They are hardy in the North; but their flower buds\\nare quickly developed during mild weather, consequently they are apt\\nto suffer from late frosts. They force well early in the season, but are\\nonly good for variety, as few flowers can be had on a moderate-sized\\nplant. As border subjects they are desirable, making an attractive\\ndisplay during April or the first half of May. Propagation is by seeds,\\ndivision and grafting. The single and semi-double forms will, in favora-\\nble seasons, ripen a considerable quantity of seed; they should not be\\nallowed to remain in the seed vessels after they are ripe, as they harden,\\nand germination will take longer than if sown when ripe. Sow in boxes", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "164 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nand keep under cover for the Winter. They should germinate in Spring.\\nSeedlings are not as free flowering as grafted plants. The operation of\\ngrafting is best performed during the first half of September, in order\\nthat the union may be perfect and new roots produced by the stocks to\\ngive the Spring growth a vigorous start. For stocks any of the numer-\\nous varieties of the Chinese species may be taken; those varieties having\\nthe poorest flowers should, of course, be selected for the purpose. The\\nwood taken for cions should be from the less robust part of the plant,\\nthat in which the large flower buds are absent being preferred. The\\nleaves should be shortened back, and the cion attached to a good-sized\\npiece of the fleshy part of the root of the herbaceous species by the\\neasiest of the ordinary methods of grafting. Tie on with a string which\\nwill not rot in the ground during Winter, as support is needed in this\\nway even after the cion has taken with the stock. The position to be\\noccupied by the grafted stocks is the most important part of the opera-\\ntion. Where the Winters are severe, a deep frame, facing north, is the\\nbest place for them. In this locality they are heeled in on a sheltered\\npart of the open border, but deep enough in the soil, so that the lower\\npart of the cion is covered. A layer of decayed leaves or sphagnum is\\nkept on the surface of the soil, and the tops shaded for the first two\\nweeks. In planting insert deep enough so as to give the cions every\\nopportunity to send out their own roots. About the beginning of May\\nthe graft will have made considerable growth; each one should then be\\nsupported with a stick, else it is liable to become detached from the\\nstocks. Division should only be attempted with plants which are well\\nprovided with short growths from the bases of the plants.\\nPAULOWNIA IMPERIALIS (Empress Tree).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Under favorable condi\\ntions this subject grows into a good-sized tree. During May, before the\\nleaves appear, the large panicles of bright purple gloxinia-like flowers\\nopen out, making a most gorgeous appearance. A medium-sized tree will\\nripen an almost incredible number of seeds; they are quite small and\\nneed careful tending to germinate them successfully. Young plants,\\nwhen cut down annually, throw up very strong shoots with leaves\\nsometimes 2 feet in diameter, giving an effect not to be had with any\\nother plant. It thrives in any soil. The Winter of 1898-1899 was\\nthe first to kill the flower buds on even large-sized trees in Washington.\\nIt is hardy in the North, but the flower buds, being naked, are usually\\nkilled by severe frosts.\\nPA VI A MACROSTACHYA (Smooth=fruited Horse Chestnut)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is a\\ndesirable shrub, growing from 3 to 9 feet high, spreading rapidly by\\nmeans of stoloniferous roots. It flowers in June; the flowers are white,\\ndisposed in upright racemes. It is most easily propagated by division.\\nP. rubra var. purpurea blooms in a very small state; it will succeed\\neither in sun or shade. Seedlings make satisfactory blooming plants.\\nPERSICA VULGARIS (Peach)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The double-flowering forms are among\\nthe most popular of dwarf-flowering trees. Their period of blooming is\\nduring April and May, according to locality. P. v. versicolor plena has\\nthe flowers either red or white on the same tree, or with both colors\\ncombined in the same flower. There are double red, double rose and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 165\\ndouble white forms. They are increased by working on one-year-old\\nseedling stocks of the common peach.\\nPHILADELPHIA (Hock Orange, Syringa)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 All of the species and their\\nforms are valuable flowering shrubs with large white flowers, some\\nof which are very fragrant. P. coronarius is one of the best known;\\nP. c. primulaeflorus has double flowers; there is another with yel-\\nlowish leaves. P. grandiflorus is a native of the Southern States; it\\nhas larger flowers than P. coronarius. P. Gordonianus is a late\\nbloomer, with almost scentless flowers. They succeed in almost any\\nsoil. Cuttings taken after the leaves drop in Autumn will root very\\nquickly if put in slight bottom heat in March or April; or in a protected\\nplace they root well in the open ground. Pruning should be done only\\nafter the flowers have faded. This will give the young wood an oppor-\\ntunity to ripen. The flowers are only produced on the wood made the\\npreceding Summer.\\nPOTENTILLA FRUTICOSA (Shrubby Cinquefoil)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A very hardy species\\ngrowing from 2 to 5 feet high, with pinnate leaves and numerous bright\\nyellow flowers, which are produced all through the Summer. Cuttings\\nmay be rooted at any time indoors during Summer. Small plants are\\nvery suitable for the rockery, and by pruning in the Spring they are\\neasily kept within bounds\\nPRUNUS PADUS is the Bird Cherry. It bears long racemes of white\\nflowers, in May, followed by ornamental black fruit. P. spinosa flore-\\npleno, the double flowering Sloe, forms a large shrub, usually covered\\nwith double white flowers in early Spring. The dwarf white, double-\\nflowering Almond is P. japonica flore-alba-plena; the red form is P. j.\\nflore-rubra-plena. They bloom for only a short period, but are exceed-\\ningly handsome while the flowers last. P. Pissardi is the purple-leaved\\nPlum, of which there are good and bad forms; the good varieties retain\\ntheir coloring till the end of the season. The flowers, usually borne in\\ngreat profusion, open in early Spring before the leaves expand. In this\\nlocality the fruits are ripe by the end of May. Most of the species and\\nforms are propagated by budding and grafting, but it is cheaper to buy\\nthan to work them in small quantities.\\nPUNICA GRANATUn NANA (Dwarf Pomegranate)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Both the tall\\ngrowing and dwarf Pomegranates stand our most severe Winters here\\nwithout the least injury, and flower quite profusely during the Summer.\\nThey are all the more welcome, as their unique, bright scarlet flowers\\nare produced when shrubs in bloom are scarce. In favorable seasons\\nthey ripen fruit, but we do not depend upon these for propagation. Cut-\\ntings are taken from one and two-year-old wood, stored and put in a\\ncool house propagating bed about the middle of February; they root\\nvery evenly. They should be removed to a frame as soon as they will\\nbear it. The dwarf form makes a very ornamental shrub, and should\\nbe tried wherever it is likely to thrive. Native of Cabul and Persia.\\nPYRUS (Crab=apple)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Highly ornamental low growing trees, usually\\ncovered with flowers early in Spring. Some of them have very highly\\ncolored fruits in Autumn. They are increased by budding and grafting", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "166 HARDY SHRUBS.\\non seedling stocks. The flowers of P. Malus coronaria are large, single,\\npinkish-white, very sweetly scented. It bears fruit freely, but the seed-\\nlings are slow in making flowering plants. P. M. floribunda and the\\nvariety called atrosanguinea are most beautiful when the flowers are\\nhalf expanded; they are then of a bright rosy- red color, getting lighter\\nwhen fully open. The flowers of P. M. Parkmanni are double, of a\\nbeautiful deep rose; valuable for cutting. It is a very free flowering\\nvariety and should be largely grown. P. M. carnea and P. M. lutea\\nproduce large numbers of flowers on small grafted plants. The double\\nwhite and double rose colored forms of P. M. spectabilis are very desira-\\nble; they are very regular bloomers, seldom missing a season. P. M.\\nfloribunda and P. M f. atrosanguinea bloom freely in a small state, and\\nshould be grown more for forcing purposes.\\nRHAPH10LEPIS OVATA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A charming little evergreen shrub, which is\\nhardy here in sheltered situations. The flowers resemble those of a Cra-\\ntaegus; they are pure white, sweet-scented, about three-quarters of an\\ninch across and arranged in terminal panicles. The leaves are leathery\\nin texture and almost round. It ought to prove a good shrub for the\\nSouthern States. It is easily propagated by cuttings in the Fall, rooted\\nindoors.\\nRHODODENDRON.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In some parts these do grandly. In this locality,\\nwhen given sheltered and partly shaded positions, they thrive tolerably\\nwell, but when in the full sun they do not thrive unless very carefully\\nwatched. Hybrids of R. ponticum are less hardy than those of R.\\ncatawbiense. This species and R. maximum are natives of the Eastern\\nStates; they should be given treatment similar to that recomended for\\nAzalea. They are propagated by layering and grafting on seedling\\nstocks of the hardy species, principally R. maximum. R. punctatum,a\\nspecies from N. Carolina with small pink flowers, is quite hardy North.\\nThere are many beautiful greenhouse species and varieties, compara-\\ntively few of which are cultivated in America.\\nRHODOTYPOS KERRIOIDES (White Kerria)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This is a very desirable\\nJapanese shrub, seldom growing over 8 feet high, although in its native\\ncountry it is said to reach twice that height. The flowers make their\\nappearance as soon as the growths of the current year develop, and\\nkeep up quite a display from about the middle of May all through the\\nSummer and Fall months; that is, if the ground does not get too dry.\\nThe flowers are snow-white, aobut 2 inches in diameter, and appear at the\\nends of the shoots. The plant thrives well on heavy soils, and, although\\nnot necessarily, in places crowded and partly shaded by overhead foli-\\nage. The seeds are in shape and size somewhat like those of the Canna.\\nThey may be sown as soon as gathered, as they are slow in germinating.\\nRHUS COTINUS (Smoke Tree) A species from Southern Europe? with\\nvery neat foliage. The whole plant is usually covered during mid-\\nsummer with a fringe-like substance, which gives rise to the name\\nSmoke Tree. 7 This substauce consists of the elongated hairy pedicels.\\nR. glabra is one of the handsomest species, on account of its large, odd-\\npinnate leaves. R. g. laciniata has the leaflets much cut up, resembling\\nthe fronds of some Ferns; both are easily propagated from cuttings of", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "BARBY SHRUBS. 167\\nthe roots. R. typhina, the Staghorn Sumach, grows from 10 to 30 feet\\nhigh. The leaves are odd-pinnate, having from 11 to 31 leaflets. R.\\ncopallina is a shrub, growing from 1 to 7 feet high. Both are propa-\\ngated by root cuttings, and also from seeds. R. Toxicodendron and R.\\nvenenata are poisonous species; the former is known as Poison Oak\\nand Poison Ivy, the latter as Poison Sumach and Poison Dogwood.\\nROBINIA HISPIDA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The flowers of this species are deep rose colored,\\nborne in hanging racemes. When grown on its own roots it suckers\\nfreely, and when planted among choice shrubs it soon appropriates\\nspace not intended for it. When worked on stocks of the False Acacia,\\nR. Pseud-acacia, it is a more desirable shrub, but it requires frequent\\npruning to keep it in shape. Of R. Pseud-acacia there are low-growing\\nand late-blooming forms; none of them are, however, superior to the\\ntype. They are worked on seedling plants of R. Pseuda-acacia.\\nROSA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Rose).\\nThe Rose is without question the most popular of flowers, and it can\\nhardly be wondered at, as in the very numerous species and varieties\\nwe have nearly every shade of color in the flower\u00e2\u0080\u0094 -green, yellow, bronze,\\nred, pink, white, purple and almost black. The flowers, be they single,\\nsemi-double or double, have much to please the eye, and their fragrance\\nis unsurpassed. The cultivated varieties are divided into classes. Some\\nof the varieties are differently arranged by different authorities. The\\narrangements are intended as aids to the published descriptions; thus\\nthe more easily do growers get an idea as to the habits of a new Rose\\nwhen the originators class it with a section of the better-known varie-\\nties. But the varieties of the several groups have, to a certain extent,\\nbeen crossed one with another, and there are very few people, even be\\nthey expert rosarians, who agree with each other on the position which\\nsome of our Roses should occupy in any system of classification. Again,\\nas new breaks are made by the crossing of species and varieties, as has\\nlately been done with the species R. Wichuraiana and R. rubiginosa,\\nthere arises a necessity for new class names. Some of the sections are\\nbut little grown in the Northern States, as the plants which do best in\\nthe colder parts of the country belong to only a few classes. The hybrid\\nperpetuals, or hybrid remontants, are the best-known outdoor Roses,\\nbut for this purpose they are unsatisfactory both North and South. In\\nthe North they suffer during Winter, and in the South they are anything\\nbut ornamental after the flowering period, which is a short one. In\\nthis latitude they are at their best from the 25th of May till the 10th of\\nJune. They are, however, gorgeous while they last. Further North\\nsome of the kinds give a few scattering blooms in Autumn. General\\nJacqueminot, a variety raised nearly 50 years ago, is one of the most\\nvalued by amateurs, owing to its brilliant crimson, highly fragrant\\nflowers. It is used to a considerable extent for forcing. When the plants\\nare put out in solid beds, the sash are removed in Summer, to develop\\nstrong canes. At the proper season these are pruned, the plants top\\ndressed, and the crop of flowers in early Spring is usually a heavy one.\\nSome houses of this Rose in this vicinity have stood untouched, save in", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "16$ HARDY SHRUBS.\\npruning and top dressing, for 15 years. The varieties Ulrich Brunner,\\nMrs. John Laing, Mme. Gabriel Luizet and Anne de Diesbach force well,\\nand for outdoor culture they are among the best.\\nForcing In forcing hybrid perpetuals the plants should be lifted\\nwhen the growths are matured, pruned back, potted hard and placed in\\na cold frame. Plunge the pot among leaves, if there is a probability of\\ntheir making a few roots before freezing weather without the buds\\nstarting into growth. Plunging will keep the roots safe and in a condi-\\ntion ready for active work. When brought into a cool house, in the\\nearly part of the year, they need to be brought on very gradually so as\\nto have feeding roots when the buds break. An examination of the\\nroots will show when it is safe to force growth by giving gentle heat.\\nAmerican Beauty, sent out in 1885, is a perpetual bloomer and has, to a\\ncertain extent, taken the place of most of the older forcing varieties of\\nthe so-called hybrid perpetual class. This variety has had a wonderful\\ncareer as a forcing Rose, and it is unlikely that its place will be taken by\\nnewcomers for some time at least.\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Roses of this class for outdoor growth are propagated\\nby budding, grafting and from cuttings. When it is desired to put in\\ncuttings in the open ground the work should be done during the first\\nhalf of October. Select a sheltered spot. Have the ground freshly\\nworked, or, better still, the cuttings may be put in as the ground is dug.\\nThe cuttings should be at least 9 inches in length and only an inch or so\\nshould be exposed above the surface. Those cuttings having a heel are\\nnot so liable to decay as those cut between leaves, or at the base of a\\nleaf. They should always be put in with the aid of a spade, as it allows\\nfirming with the feet; and if the soil needs it a little sand should be\\nadded while the trench is open, to induce healthy rooting. Half-rotted\\nleaves, or rough stable litter, should be spread over the whole during\\nhard freezing weather. When they are to be rooted indoors, the cuttings\\nshould be taken off later, tied in bundles and their bottom ends placed\\nin moss, in a place low enough in temperature to keep the buds dor-\\nmant. In Spring place in a gentle bottom heat, with the atmosphere\\ncool. They will root readily by this method. The cuttings must be\\npotted before the roots get long. In potting have the soil moderately\\nmoist, so that they will need little water until the roots begin to take\\nwith the soil. In grafting, which is done in Spring, cut back plants of\\nthe Manetti and Dog Rose are used, or pieces of the roots of these, or\\nthe roots of any of the free growing Roses, such as Mme. Plantier.\\nBudding on stocks of Manetti, or the Dog Rose, is done in the open\\nground in late Summer.\\nPropagation by Seeds\u00e2\u0080\u0094 New varieties are largely raised from seeds\\nripened from hand-pollinated flowers. In raising plants from seeds,\\nif sown as soon as ripe, they germinate very irregularly. Some of\\nthe hybrid perpetuals will germinate part of a crop and some of them\\nwill flower in two months from date of sowing. Other seedlings, ger-\\nminated at the same period, will take at least a year to bloom, while\\nother seeds of the same batch will lie in the seed pan over a year before\\nvegetating. The reason why the seeds sometimes remain a long time", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 169\\nin the soil before germinating is owing to their being inclosed by a\\nhorny substance. This should be softened before sowing, by allowing\\nthe seeds to remain in boxes of finely sifted sand during the Winter, the\\nboxes to be buried several inches below the surface of the soil out-of-\\ndoors. In removing the seeds from the sand previous to sowing, use a\\nsieve with a small mesh; empty the sand (which is likely to be wet)\\ninto this, and force the sand through the meshes with the aid of a stream\\nof water from the hose. The seeds should then be sown before getting\\ndry. Care must be taken to remove them from their Winter quarters\\nbefore vegetating, which they are apt to do, even when they are deep\\nin the soil, as soon as the temperature of their surroundings reaches\\n40 degrees.\\nTeas and Hybrid Teas are the most important of all the classes,\\nbecause they include the Koses mostly grown under glass to supply\\nflowers all the year round. Although the varieties annually raised are\\nnumerous enough, those mostly grown in large quantities are either old\\nkinds or sports from old kinds. Catherine Mermet is the parent of two\\nBride and Bridesmaid; it is over 30 years since it was raised. La\\nFrance, a hybrid Tea, the parentage of which is unknown, but it is said\\nto have been raised from seed of a Tea Rose, is between 30 and 40 years\\nold. Although in some cities a back number, in Washington it ranks\\nnext to American Beauty in price during the Winter, and is much in\\ndemand. Two of its sports, Duchess of Albany and Augustine Guinois-\\nseau, have had their innings as forcing plants. If Golden Gate could be\\ngrown everywhere alike in size of flower, stem and productiveness, as it\\nis in this locality, it would be a more popular Rose. Some flowers\\nobtained here and exhibited in a Northern city not long ago, were taken\\nfor extra fine specimens of Souvenir du President Carnot a hybrid Tea,\\nwhich, like many others, has not fulfilled the predictions made for it a\\nfew seasons ago when first sent out. It has a habit of going to rest\\nduring the season when most wanted; but grand results are easily\\nsecured by resting, freezing and starting the plants, to have them in\\nbloom by Easter, and depending upon them later for a supply of bloom\\nduring the Summer. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, another Rose of the\\nsame class, gives good results by similar methods. Meteor, a hybrid\\nTea, raised in the eighties, has been popular where tried, but solely on\\naccount of its color, which is dark crimson. The list of kinds which\\nhave been tried for forcing and discarded is a long one. Scarcely a year\\nelapses without some new kind being sent out, and the fate of most of\\nthem is determined after a short trial.\\nFor Out=door Bloom the Teas are getting more popular year by year,\\nand deservedly so, as they flower continuously during the Summer and\\nAutumn months. If given a mulching of rotted manure and watered\\noccasionally during dry spells, they are much more satisfactory than\\nthe hybrid perpetuals. Most of the kinds are quite hardy in this section.\\nThe tops are, of course, frequently killed, but this makes little difference,\\nas the strong flowering wood is made from the base of the plants.\\nEven much further North many of the kinds will stand the Winter, if\\nprotected by some loose material over the roots. But even where they\\nare killed annually, the plants used during the Winter in the benches", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "i?0 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nmake excellent material for planting out. If cut back and potted they\\ntake about ten days, in a suitable temperature, to throw out roots\\nenough to insure successful growth when planted in the open border.\\nKaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, La France and its forms, Sou-\\nvenir du President Carnot, Belle Siebrecht, Antoine Rivoire and White\\nMaman Cochet are a few among a large number of others which can be\\ndepended upon to succeed. Among the other ever-blooming kinds R.\\nrugosa and its hybrids are coming into prominence. One of the first\\nhybrids, raised about 12 years ago, is named Mme. Georges Bruant.\\nThe flowers are large, semi-double, very sweetly scented, and in color\\nare almost white, having a slight creamy shade to them. Under favor-\\nable conditions, that is, where they are encouraged to send up fresh\\ngrowths, blooms will be produced all through the season. Blanc de\\nCoubert seems to be a double form of Rosa rugosa alba; it bears a pure\\nwhite flower, is free blooming, and should be in every collection. The\\nhybrid climbing Roses iuclude such kinds as Paul s Carmine Pillar and\\nClimbing Victor Verdier. Coquette des Alpes and Coquette des Blanches\\nare representatives of the Hybrid Noisettes. Other well-known ever-\\nbloomers are Clothilde Soupert (Polyantha), Hermosa (Bourbon), and\\nChampion of the World (Hybrid Bourbon).\\nCultivation Under Glass\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Teas and Hybrid Teas are the Roses most\\nlargely grown for this purpose They are easiest propagated from cut-\\ntings of the half-ripened wood. It does not seem to make much differ-\\nence whether flowering or blind wood is used. Cuttings may be taken\\nto single eyes with the leaf shortened back, or made with two eyes and\\nthe lower leaf removed. A bottom heat of from 65 to 70 degrees will\\nanswer, the atmosphere of the house being 10 degrees lower. Propaga-\\ntion is carried on from January to March. The plants are put out on\\nthe benches during June, from 3 or 4-inch pots, according to variety.\\nFour inches of soil is the usual quantity the kind used should be rather\\nheavy and fibrous loam mixed with rotted cow manure to about one-\\nsixth of its bulk. Subsequent mulchings of rotted manure mixed with\\nbone meal are given as the plants show the necessity for them. Abun-\\ndance of ventilation is afforded during warm weather. If shading is ne-\\ncessary it should be done with a substance which is easily removed, such\\nas grafting clay mixed with water and applied with a syringe or pump.\\nFiring should begin when the outside temperature drops to 50 degrees;\\nthe minimum night temperature of the house should be kept in the neigh-\\nborhood of 55 degrees, rising to 70 degrees during the day for the Teas\\nand Hybrid Teas, with the exception of Meteor, which thrives best with\\na minimum of 65 degrees. Watering is an item of the first importance.\\nThe condition of the soil is the best indicator as to whether water should\\nbe given or withheld. The first buds are cut off to induce robust\\ngrowth. Syringing is necessary, to prevent red spider from increasing,\\nbut should only be practiced in bright weather. Ventilation is not less\\nimportant than watering, and good judgment must be exercised in\\nopening and closing the house; the condition of the weather out-of-\\ndoors must always be taken into consideration as well as the indoor\\ntemperature, as cold draughts, or tne temperature getting too low will", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "BARDT SHRUBS. 171\\nalmost certainly provide correct conditions for an attack of mildew\u00e2\u0080\u0094 a\\nfungus which in a short period, if allowed to grow unchecked, will ruin\\nthe plants. When mildew makes its appearance, sulphur applied to the\\nsteam or hot water pipes is the best antidote. Aphides are best checked\\nby vaporizing. American Beauty, as already stated, is a hybrid per-\\npetual, and when cultivated under glass it is an ever-bloomer. It is\\ngrown in a slightly warmer atmosphere than the Teas, and is often very\\nsuccessfully cultivated in solid beds. Medium-sized wood should be\\nchosen for the cuttings, and these made with two eyes. They should\\nbe planted out of 4-inch pots.\\nPropagation by Grafting\u00e2\u0080\u0094 There seems to be a difference of opinion\\nas to the benefits to be derived from this method of propagation, but\\neach grower may settle it for himself by giving it a trial. The stocks\\nshould be prepared by potting in 3-inch pots; in thickness they should\\ncorrespond as near as possible with that of the cion the cion should\\nnever be of a greater diameter than that of the stock. Any of the com-\\nmon methods of grafting will answer. The cion should be securely\\nfastened in position with raffia. As soon as tying is completed, it is\\nnecessary that the plants be kept in a suitable atmosphere to preserve\\nthe leaves of the cions so that the union may be hastened. In grafting\\nhybrids this is not so necessary, as they can be handled without leaves.\\nA brisk heat under the plunging material will quicken the action of the\\nroots and effect a union safely without the aid of a frame; but with\\nTeas it is necessary to have them in an almost air-tight structure. If\\nonly a few hundred are to be experimented with, part of a side bench\\nmay be set apart for the purpose of receiving the grafted plants, and\\nmay be prepared as follows: Have the front and back boards higher\\nthan the plants. Ordinary sash laid lengthwise of the bench will suit\\nall right, provided they can be arranged so as to keep the atmosphere\\nwarm and humid. To facilitate easy access to the plants the sash may\\nbe temporarily hinged on to the back boards with pieces of leather, and\\nthe sash tilted in front with a stick. Select a stretch of bench that can\\nbe relied upon to supply a temperature of from 70 to 80 degrees inside\\nof the frame. First put a layer of sphagnum on the bench one inch\\nclosely packed will do. Over this put some ashes, or sand, on which to\\nstand the pots. The other conditions necessary for a quick union will\\nreadily sugest themselves, air being given very gradually after the union\\nhas taken plaee. When hardened off, growth will be accelerated by a\\nshift into larger pots.\\nSummer Roses\u00e2\u0080\u0094 According to locality May, June and July is the\\nperiod during which the Summer Roses bloom. They are known as\\nAyrshire, Prairie, Austrian, Moss, Provence (Cabbage or Centifolia), Mul-\\ntiflora, Hybrid Sweet Briars, Hybrid China, Musk and Hybrid Wichu-\\nraiana. Bennett s Seedling is a well-known representative of the Ayr-\\nshire class. Among the Prairie Roses Baltimore Belle and Queen of the\\nPrairies are old but grand kinds, splendidly adapted as climbers; they\\nare very hardy and late in blooming. The Austrian Briars are among\\nthe earliest to flower; they form good-sized bushes and require little\\nattention in the way of pruning. Austrian Copper has large, single\\nflowers of a brilliant coppery-red on the upper surfaces of the petals;", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "172 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nthe under surfaces are much paler in color. Austrian Yellow has large\\nsingle yellow flowers. Harison s Yellow and Persian Yellow are semi-\\ndouble forms. The Wichuraiana hybrids are destined to cut quite a\\nfigure as hardy climbers. The female parent, R. Wichuraiana (R. Lucia 1\\nis a Japanese species, of a rambling habit, with clusters of small white\\nflowers, which open late. The leaves are small and shining. The plant\\nlasts only a shoit time in bloom, but a well-established subject bears\\nthousands of flowers. This is the easiest of all Roses to propagate.\\nThe new race of hybrids which have been raised lately are, in some\\ncases, several weeks ahead of R. Wichuraiana in blooming; they appear\\nto be very hardy. The flowers of R. Wichuraiana are capable of being\\nfertilized with pollen from a large number of different varieties, and the\\nresulting progeny varies greatly. Some have large, single flowers\\nexceeding in size any of the recent hybrid Sweet Briars; others are\\nsmall, very double, with petals arranged like the florets of a Zinnia.\\nSome again have the flowers so closely resembling those of the variety\\nHermosa as to be mistaken for these, but the habit of all of the seed-\\nlings, so far as I have observed, is the same. W. A. Manda, of South\\nOrange, N. J., was the first to raise hybrids from this species. Lord\\nPenzance s Hybrid Briars also belong to the Summer blooming class. R.\\nrubiginosa, the Sweet Briar, is the seed parent; this has been crossed\\nwith various other Roses. The flowers of the hybrids are bright col-\\nored and showy, but the most attractive feature is the sweet-scented\\nfoliage.\\nDuring recent years the Summer blooming section has been enriched\\nby a Rose concerning which little is known beyond its being a Japanese\\nproduction. It was brought to Scotland early in the seventies, and for\\nnearly 20 years grew in the garden of a Mr. Jenner, near Edinburgh. It\\nwas secured by Turner, of Slough, and sent out in 1894. The name\\nEngineer, which it had borne up to that time, was changed to Crim-\\nson Rambler. It is a climber, of very vigorous growth, and very hardy.\\nThe flowers are borne in large clusters. The color is bright crimson. As\\nwas to be expected the great popularity of this Rose suggested Pink,\\nYellow and White Ramblers, but while the Roses which are thus\\ndescribed are good in their way, we have yet to see pink, yellow and\\nwhite forms of the Crimson Rambler. This Rose has become a favorite\\nsort for forcing into bloom at Easter, the plants for which purpose are\\neither grown in pots or in the open ground. Plants grown by the latter\\nmethod are much stronger than those in pots, but they require greater\\ncare in handling. The roots should not be allowed to get the least dry\\nbefore potting. It is propagated in Spring and Autumn. When the\\nwood is ripe and the leaves begin to fall, quite a number of short stubby\\ngrowths will be found on the flowering shoots of the previous Summer s\\nflowering wood; these, if made into cuttings about 10 inches long, and\\nburied up to within an inch of the ends of the shoots, will root freely.\\nPlace them in some shaded spot, and in Winter cover with half-decayed\\nleaves or straw to prevent quick thawing and freezing. A quicker\\nmethod of propagation is to take half-ripened wood from indoor plants\\nin Spring; these are potted as soon as rooted, and either grown on in\\npots or planted out when weather permits.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 173\\nSHEPHERDIA ARGENTEA (Rabbit Berry)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Under favorable conditions\\nthis species grows into a small tree. The leaves, owing to the presence\\nof an immense number of small silvery scales, are almost white on both\\nsides, and from a distance the plants look as if they were covered with\\nwhite flowers. The blooms are small, produced singly or in pairs in the\\naxils of the leaves; they are exceedingly fragrant. S. canadensis is a\\nsmaller species, reaching a height of 6 feet. Both are easily raised from\\nseeds.\\nSPIR/EA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The shrubby species worth growing; are too numerous to\\nmention here. One of the earliest to flower, and a favorite kind, is S.\\nprunifolia; S. Reevesii and its double form are both popular. S. Thun-\\nbergii blooms very early in the season when there are but few leaves\\non the plant; the flowers are small, but they make up in numbers for\\nwhat they lack in size. All of the above have white flowers. S. salici-\\nfolia and its varieties bloom in dense panicles late in the season. This,\\nwith S. paniculata rosea, another late bloomer, has pink flowers. S.\\nVan Houttei is one of the best kinds which flower in May or June; it\\nmakes a good forcing plant. S. Bumalda and S. B. Anthony Waterer\\nhave the flowers disposed on the ends of the shoots of the current year s\\ngrowths, in flat heads, several inches in diameter. In S. Bumalda the\\nflowers are rose colored; its variety has dark crimson blossoms. Both\\nare dwarf, but very vigorous and easily propagated from the young\\nwood. S. sorbifolia, S. grandiflora and S. Lindleyana are distinct from\\nthe others in having odd-pinnate leaves and the flowers arranged in\\nlarge panicles, produced late in the season. S. sorbifolia dies down to\\nthe ground each season, and during extra hard Winters the other two\\nbehave in a similar way; but they make growth enough the following\\nSummer to flower. S. Lindleyana is useful for planting in large groups.\\nA native of the Himalayas it is probably unsuited for Northern sections\\nunless well protected. All three are easily raised from seeds, or by\\ndivision.\\nSTAPHYLEA (Bladder Nut)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 S. colchica and S. Bumalda bloom very\\nearly in the season. They have the reputation of being the easiest\\nshrubs to bring into flower under artificial conditions. They belong to\\nthe Maple family, and are natives of Japan and Europe. S. colchica has\\nfairly large-sized racemes of almost pure; white flowers, very agreeably\\nscented. Young plants with flowering wood can be got up in two years\\nby taking cuttings of dormant wood in Autumn, heeling in moss, intro-\\nducing them to gentle bottom heat in March.\\nSYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS (Snowberry)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 This species is grown\\non account of the large white fruits which hang from the ends of the\\nbranches during the Autumn and Winter months. S. vulgaris has red\\nfruits, but much smaller than those of S. racemosus. They are propa-\\ngated by seed, cuttings, or by division.\\nSYRINGA (Lilac)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 About a dozen species of this popular genus are in\\ncultivation. Most of them, however, are of little value for cut bloom.\\nThey are handsome while in flower, but they do not pay to grow along-\\nside of the varieties of the common species, S. vulgaris. Of these there is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "174 HARDY SHRUBS.\\nan abundance to choose from. S. chinensis, a small-leaved kind, is valu-\\nable on account of the long stems which support the flower heads. S.\\npersica, the Persian lilac, and S. p. laciniata make rather handsome\\nbushes, -which is more than can be said of most of the kinds, as they are\\ndecidedly unsightly when out of bloom compared with the majority of\\nornamental shrubs. They are all natives of the old world. S. vulgaris\\nis indigenous of central Europe. Some of the finer varieties are as fol-\\nlows: Alba grandiflora and Marie Legraye, both large flowered and\\npure white forms; Louis Van Houtte, dark red; Dr. Lindley, purplish\\nlilac; Charles X., reddish-purple; Leon Simon, double, bluish-crimson;\\nEmile Lemoine, double, rosy-lilac; Mme. Lemoine, double white. Propa-\\ngation is effected on in a variety of ways\u00e2\u0080\u0094 seeds, suckers, layering, cut-\\ntings from half ripe or dormant wood, budding and grafting. Raising\\nplants from seeds is practiced for producing new varieties and for sup-\\nplying stocks. The best stock is the Californian Privet, Ligustrum ova-\\nlifolium. Layering is a sure method, and when a limited number of\\nplants is wanted it is the one which should be practiced.\\nTAMARIX All of the species give little trouble in their propagation.\\nIf cuttings 6 inches long be made from the previous year s wood, and\\nput in gentle heat in the early Spring, they will root in a few days. Out-\\ndoor propagation will require the cuttings to be made nearly a foot\\nlong.\\nULEX EUROP^US (Whin, dorse, Furze)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Although this beautiful\\nshrub frequently gets winter-killed with us, yet we would not think of\\ndoing without it. It is useful for planting in the front of a shrubbery,\\nin sunny places. It starts into active growth very early in the season,\\nand late frosts do more injury than the very severe frosts of midwinter,\\nalthough, like many other things, it does not like rapid thawing and\\nfreezing during Winter. Seedlings are easily raised, and with good\\ntreatment they will bloom when two years old.\\nVIBURNUM, (Snowball, Gueder Rose)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Owing to their large and\\nshowy heads of sterile flowers, several of the kinds are much grown in\\nshrubberies, in groups on lawns, and for cutting. V. Opulus sterilis is\\nthe one most largely cultivated; it comes in earlier than the Japanese\\nspecies, V. plicatum, |which is the best for cutting, as the flowers last\\nlonger, having more substance to^ them. When propagated from cut-\\ntings the growing tips should be taken in Summer; this must be done\\nduring a wet spell or from bushes which have been kept watered, other-\\nwise the cuttings are very apt to lose their leaves during the process.\\nV. macrocephalum, as the name implies, has large heads of flowers; in\\nfact, too large to be of much service in cutting. This form is shy in root-\\ning from cuttings, and is usually worked on seedlings of any of the free-\\ngrowing species. There are numerous species, but their flowers are not\\nshowy. V. reticulatum has very handsome foliage, and forms a neat\\ntall bush. Propagated from green cuttings. V. Tinus is an evergreen\\nspecies, frequently getting injured here during Winter; there are several\\ndesirable forms of it.\\nVITEX AGNUS=CASTUS (Chaste Tree)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this section one of our\\nbest late blooming shrubs, surviving the Winter without protection.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "HARDY SHRUBS. 175\\nThe flowers are purplish-blue or white. The plant blooms in August\\nand September. V. cannabsefolia forms large, wide bushes, but it suffers\\nduring very severe weather. Both species are best raised from seeds.\\nThere is a hybrid form between the two species, with V. Agnus-castus\\nas the seed parent; it is equally as hardy as that species, and comes\\ntrue from seed.\\nXANTHOCERAS SORBIFOLIA, a native of Central China, was first\\ngrown in Europe about 30 years ago. It flowers after reaching a height\\nof about 18 inches. Adult specimens, it is said, reach a height of 20\\nfeet. The flowers are arranged singly, on a central stalk, which is sev-\\neral inches long. The stalk is upright, the bottom flowers opening first.\\nIn general appearance the individual flowers have a striking resemblance\\nto those of the Shortia galacifolia. They have the same crumpled appear-\\nance on first opening. The outward parts of the petals are pure white, and\\nnearest the base the color is at first yellowish green, subsequently\\nstreaked with brownish-red and eventually changing to a brighter red.\\nThe flower stalks are produced on the endsof the previous season s wood;\\nflowers and foliage expand together. In appearance the foliage some-\\nwhat resembles that of the Mountain Ash. The fruit is quite large, fully\\nthe size of a horse chestnut. The seeds are brownish black, three-quar-\\nters of an inch in diameter. They should be sown soon as ripe and kept\\ncool so as not to force germination until the middle of April. To insure\\nthe best results each seed should be sown singly in a 3-inch pot. This\\ndoes away with the possibility of injuring the tender roots in transfer-\\nring to larger receptacles or to nursery rows. From some cause many\\nof the seeds produce plants which are entirely white instead of green;\\nthese die when a few weeks old.\\nYUCCA (Adam s Needle)\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The hardy species of- this genus are all\\nornamental plants thriving in situations fully exposed to the sun.\\nAlmost any soil will suit them. Some of the most useful species are Y.\\ngloriosa (of which there are numerous varieties, one of the best being\\nY. g. recurvifolia), Y. angustifolia and Y. filamentosa. They are\\nincreased by dividing the stems and replanting in a shaded spot until\\nrooted; also, in some species, by seeds, and from root cuttings.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "176\\nGeneral Directions*\\nPropagation\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Seeds, Grafting, Budding, and Layering\\nHybridization, Potting Plants, Drainage, Soil,\\nMulching, Watering.\\nPROPAGATION.\\nAll plants may be propagated by one or more of the following\\nmethods: Seeds, spores, bulbils, budding, grafting, layering, cuttings of\\nthe stems, twigs, leaves and roots, suckers, divisions of the crowns or\\nby stolons or runners. Cuttings are usually made from dormant wood\\nin the cases of shrubs and trees whether they be evergreen or deciduous;\\nand in the case of soft wooded plants the growths most recently made\\nare those selected. Cuttings of leaves sometimes root freely and produce\\nyoung plants or tubers, as in Begonia rex and Gloxinia. There are many\\ndevices in which to root cuttings, such as double bell glasses placed over\\ndouble pots, one of the pots being supplied with w ater, the other with\\nsand; handlights, and so forth; but they are of little service and are\\nseldom used. Deciduous shrubs are usually propagated out-of-doors.\\nHardy perennials, such as Iberis, Dianthus and Onosma are propagated\\nin cold frames. Many of the evergreen shrubs do well in a propagating\\nhouse from which frost is kept out, while the tender plants, both hard\\nand soft wooded, are rooted in an open bed of a warm house the atmos-\\npheric temperature of which does not fall lower than 55 degrees during\\nthe coldest weather. For plants which need more heat a propagating\\nframe is easily erected in the warmest part of the house; this, with a\\nminimum bottom heat of 75 degrees, serves for Nepenthes and other\\nplants slow to root under ordinary conditions. Propagation by\\nsuckers, division, stolons and runners is an easy matter, and each species\\nso treated readily suggests the means to be employed. Many plants\\ndifficult to propagate by the usual methods of cuttings of the branches\\nyield readily to cuttings made from the roots. The Moss Rose is a fa-\\nmiliar example. Clerodendrons, Fatsias, Paulownia imperialis, Rasp-\\nberry, Blackberry and Xanthoceras all come freely from roots. Among the\\nherbaceous plants the roots of Anemone japonica and Lychnis vesper-\\ntina, when cut up quite small, will give plants from every piece. Indoor\\nplants, such as Manettia cordifolia and Cephaelis ipecacuanha will give\\nplants more readily by this method than any other.\\nSeeds\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The soil in which to sow seeds, especially that portion of it\\nwhich is near the surface, and in which there are weed seeds, should be\\nprepared beforehand so as to avoid the necessity of pulling up the weeds\\nand the consequent danger attending the operation of dislodging the\\nseeds which we wish to germinate, especially during the process of ger-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 177\\nmination. The most natural method is to spread the soil out on a flat\\nsurface in a hothouse and encourage the weed seeds to germinate by the\\naid of heat and moisture. The soil should be spread out quite shallow,\\nand in a few days time the seeds that are likely to prove most trouble-\\nsome will have germinated. The weeds that one finds most noxious are\\nquick in germinating, and will be rendered harmless by this method.\\nThey are principally Lamium, Plantago, Eagweed, Grasses, Draba, An-\\nthemis, Kumex, Portulaca, Acalpyha, Oxalis and Trifolium but the list\\nvaries with different localities. Burning or steaming the soil is often\\nresorted to, but for seed sowing I prefer the other method as more likely\\nto rid the soil thoroughly of the common, troublesome weeds. Soil in-\\ntended for use in connection with raising Ferns from spores should be\\ntreated even more carefully, in order to destroy every vestige of vegeta-\\nble life. To do this thoroughly the soil should be boiled for a reasonable\\nlength of time, and afterward dried in the sun. Seedlings which from\\ntheir nature require pricking off (that is putting around the outer edge\\nof the soil in pots, or in rows, in boxes) shortly after the seed leaves are\\ndeveloped, should be raised in seed vessels which have at least half their\\ndepth devoted to drainage. Most of this should consist of pieces of\\nbroken pots, or cinders, covered over with some rough material, such as\\nhalf-decayed leaves, to prevent the soil washing down. In very shallow\\nseed vessels, whether pans or boxes, the bottom part should be covered\\nwith rough screenings, with finer soil above, and pressed moderately\\nfirm. In covering the seeds the old rule is to cover the seed with its own\\nthickness in soil, and if followed out few mistakes will be made. The\\ncovering should not be of such a nature as to bake readily; finely\\nscreened sphagnum moss mixed with sand is a good substance with\\nwhich to cover almost any medium-sized seeds that take a reasonably\\nshort time in germinating, as it retains moisture without imparting too\\nmuch to the soil below. Very small seeds, such as those of Begonias\\nand Gloxinias, do not need any covering; but to preserve a humid\\natmosphere around them, or to furnish the conditions necessary for\\ngermination, they must be covered with something which prevents a\\ntoo rapid evaporation of moisture. This is supplied by a pane of glass,\\nwhich should be kept on until the seed leaves appear. It need not fit\\ntightly, so as to preclude the possibility of a slight circulation of air;\\nwhere this is the case the seedlings are apt to dampen, even before the\\nseed leaves are developed. Where glass is used as a covering for small\\nseeds the soil ought to be moderately moist before sowing. Thickly\\nsown seed is an evil to be guarded against, a crowded box or pan of\\nseedlings, whether they be Ferns or flowering plants, is next to useless,\\nbecause shortly after germinating the seedlings begin to get weak and\\nnever afterward make such healthy plants as those which get a chance\\nto form short, stocky growth\u00e2\u0080\u0094 enough at least to enable one to handle\\nthem easily during the operation of pricking or potting off. Seeds, as\\nsoon as germinated, as a rule, should not be kept in a shaded place, as\\nthen they are apt to get drawn; that is, too much length between\\nthe surface of the soil and the seed leaves. Most seedlings in the early\\npart of the season will stand all the sun they can get. This especially\\napplies to seedlings of such plants as Phlox Drummondii, Madagascar", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "178 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.\\nVincas and Verbenas. Among herbaceous perennials some of the Del-\\nphiniums and Rheums, also many of the umbelliferous plants have seed-\\nlings with the petioles of the seed lea ves forming a long tube and looking\\nas if they were very much drawn, no matter whether grown in sun\\nor shade. But this is their nature, as the plumule has to penetrate the\\ntube near the base in order to reach the light, instead of between the\\nblades of the seed leaves. A great many kinds of plants in the seedling\\nstage, when pricking off becomes necessary, are not of sufficient size to\\ngo into small pots; in these they take up too much room and are apt to\\nsuffer from too much or too little water. One will get dry here and\\nthere, and the chances are that when water is given others in the neigh-\\nborhood will get water when they do not need it. Putting several in a\\npot is just as unsatisfactory, as they must be divided up as soon as\\nsufficient growth is made, and repotted. This applies especially to her-\\nbaceous plants which have a large number of fibry roots instead of a\\ntap root. I find the plan of putting the seedlings in boxes, when large\\nenough to handle, to be the most satisfactory method. Watering is then\\nan easy matter, and the seedlings, when large enough, can be trans-\\nferred to the open ground or potted up as required\u00e2\u0080\u0094 it is a saving of\\nspace and a saving in labor, especially when the seedlings are transferred\\nto frames and to their permanent quarters. The seeds of many plants\\nmay be safely sown at almost any time of the year. The majority of\\nherbaceous plants should be sown during the late Summer, as they\\noccupy comparatively [little space throughout the Winter months, and\\nnumerous species will bloom the succeeding year, especially if the plants\\nbe put in their permanent positions in the Fall, which I have found a\\nvery advisable thing to do in this section. Seeds of herbaceous plants,\\nsown early in Spring, especially by amateurs, do not help in making\\nthose plants popular, as the seedlings in the majority of cases do not\\nflower the first year, and some of the species not even during the second\\nseason.\\nGrafting consists of placing together two separate parts of plants so\\nthat they will unite and grow as one. That part on which the graft is\\nplaced is usually a plant provided with roots, and is called the stock.\\nThe graft, or cion, is the part which is intended to develop into the\\nfuture part of the tree, shrub, or vine, as the case may be, which bears\\nleaves, flowers and fruits. When the union has taken place, both stock\\nand cion continue developing as one plant, with, in most instances, very\\nlittle to indicate that stock and cion, or roots and branches, belong to\\ndifferent species, varieties, or forms. Grafting is, however, frequently\\ndone upon the branches of trees, shrubs or even herbaceous plants, so\\nthat frequently we may see several varieties in flower together, or earlier\\nor later as the case may be, with the flowers of the species, or variety,\\nupon which the grafts are growing. Some of the reasons why grafting\\nis resorted to as a means of propagating certain species, but principally\\nvarieties and forms, in preference to other methods of propagation, are\\nas follows: In growing seedling fruit trees it often requires a long num-\\nber of years to know whether these seedlings are worth perpetuating,\\nas seedlings are apt to be a long time in fruiting, partly owing to their\\nrobust growth; but every species of plant raised from seed takes a cer-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 179\\ntain time before the flowering and fruiting stage is reached. When old\\nenough to give wood for cions, the seedlings which we will suppose to\\nbe the results of cross-fertilization, are grafted on older seedlings, or\\nfruit-bearing stocks, with the result that flowering and fruiting are hast-\\nened very considerably. When it is desired to propagate a large num-\\nber of any selected variety that has thus been flowered and fruited, the\\ngrafts are often used on one or two-year-old seedling stocks. It will\\nthus be seen that a very large number of slow flowering and fruiting\\nplants can be raised by this method, in a comparatively short time.\\nBut the uses to which it is put by no means end here. Some flowering\\nshrubs have the same characteristics; they take quite a long while to\\nflower from the seedling stage. Very often seedlings do hot make florif-\\nerous plants, and many of the forms do not produce seeds at all. There-\\nfore, recourse is had to grafting, not only to lessen as much as possible\\nthe time between the periods of propagation and flowering, but also to\\nperpetuate certain peculiarities in species and varieties which can not\\nbe brought about by seeds or cuttings. Again, frequently the stock has\\nbeneficial influences upon the cion. One of them is that some things\\nwhich are comparatively tender are rendered hardier by being grafted\\nupon the stocks of hardy species, or their varieties. For outdoor graft-\\ning the usual time is in the Spring, just before the plants are in active\\ngrowth, the actual time varying, of course, with different plants and in\\ndifferent parts of the country. The cions are cut in early Winter, and\\nburied in the soil or sand, just out of the reach of frost. This keeps them\\nfresh and plump, and in a condition to readily unite with the stock.\\nThe methods of grafting are numerous; some of them are quite compli-\\ncated and have been originated merely to show the skill of some oper-\\nator. The easiest way may be said to be the best, and the best methods\\nare so easy that an intelligent child may be taught in a short time to\\nperform the work successfully. Indoor grafting is practiced during\\nAugust and September, and, with dormant wood, during the period\\nfrom December to March. As a rule, the closer the relationship between\\nstock and cion the greater the chances of a successful union between\\nthem. But plants are sometimes successfully grafted on stocks of differ-\\nent genera of the same order. The Syringa on the Ligustrum is a fa-\\nmiliar example. Some of the most familiar methods of grafting are as\\nfollows\\nSaddle Grafting\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In this case that part of the stock on which the cion\\nis to be placed is cut to a wedge shape. A neatly made notch is cut in\\nthe bottom part of the wood of the cion to fit closely over the wedge-\\nshaped part of the stock. This method is used in grafting Rhododen-\\ndrons.\\nCrown grafting is performed by heading back a large-sized stock,\\nmaking an incision in the bark from the severed part downward. Raise\\nthe bark on each side of the perpendicular cut, as in budding; make a\\nslanting cut on one side of the cion, and insert beneath the bark; bind\\ntogether and cover with grafting wax.\\nVeneer grafting is principally practiced on coniferous plants and\\nRhododendrons. It consists of making a cross cut through the bark", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "180 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.\\nand slightly into the wood. A short distance above this cross cut begin\\nwith a slanting cut downward until the first cut is reached shape the\\ncion so that it fits exactly tie in position and cover with wax. The\\nstock is headed back after the union has taken place.\\nTongue or whip grafting is used with seedlings as stocks, the stock\\nand cion being of the same thickness. A slanting cut is made on the\\ntwo surfaces to be joined with a tongue in each, so made that the\\ntongues will fit exactly in their places. A little practice will show where\\nthe tongues should be made.\\nInarching consists of uniting the cion to the stock while it is still\\nsupported by the parent root. It is the simplest of all the methods. A\\nslice of bark and cambium is cut from both stock and cion, the two\\nbrought together so as to fit exactly; they are then firmly tied. After\\nthe union is assured the cion is gradually severed from the parent to\\navoid a too sudden check.\\nRoot grafting is a very simple operation, and is practiced with such\\nplants as Clematis, Rose, Shrubby PaBony, and many other plants.\\nWhen all other stock fails this may be tried, merely selecting roots of the\\nsame or allied species. The Shrubby Pseonies are grafted on the large\\ntuber-looking roots of the herbaceous species. A notch is made in the\\nside of the swollen tuber-like root, the lower part of the cion being made\\nto fit this.\\nWith Roses and Clematis splice grafting will answer; with Wistarias\\nand Bignonias saddle grafting answers well.\\nIn grafting a very sharp and clean knife should be used, to make a\\nclean cut, so that the surfaces may go closely together. In all cases the\\nbark of both stock and cion should come evenly together, at least on\\none side, and on both if possible.\\nBudding differs from grafting in that only a single bud is used on the\\nstock instead of a piece of branch on which there are one or more buds.\\nAs in grafting a near relationship must exist between the plant from\\nwhich the bud is selected and the plant which is to receive it. The opera-\\ntion is a trifle more delicate than that of grafting, but a little practice\\nwill render it an easy task. The best time for the work is after the\\nplants have completed most of their growth, but before they approach\\nthe dormant stage. All that is necessary to accomplish the first season,\\nwhen done during late Summer, is to secure a union. The bud remains\\ndormant until the following Spring. There are several methods; that\\nmost commonly practiced consists of making a cross cut through the\\nbark of the stem of the stock. It should never be greater than for one-\\nthird of the circumference. From the center of the cross cut make a longi-\\ntudinal cut downward; raise the bark sufficiently in the angles of the\\ncut parts. The stock is now ready for the reception of the bud. This is\\ntaken usually from a branch smaller in circumference than the stock.\\nIt must necessarily be from the current year s wood, and the bud should\\nbe from the central part of the shoot. Cut the leaf away, but not too\\nnear the bud, and with a sharp, clean knife slice the bud from the shoot.\\nIt is immaterial if a little of the wood be taken with the bark, but the", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 181\\nlength of bark should be greater below the bud than above. The top\\npart should be cut off transversely one-third of an inch above the bud\\nand double that distance below. After the bud has been placed in posi-\\ntioo, tie moderately firm with raffia, examining it from time to time to\\nprevent the raffia from cutting into the bark. Budding is usually per-\\nformed during the latter part of Summer.\\nLayering This operation is on the same priaciple as that of mossing\\nRubber plants and Crotons, that is, producing roots on the branches\\nwhile yet attached to the parent plant. It is exceedingly simple when\\ndone correctly, but some of the little details left out, or performed the\\nwrong way, will render the operation unsuccessful. An expert, with\\nshrubs amenable to this method of increase, will seldom lose a layer.\\nBriefly stated, the operation consists of bending a branch low enough\\nso that after it has been notched, tongued or ringed, as the case may\\nbe, the part so treated should be several inches beneath the surface of\\nthe soil, so as to throw out roots, while being at the same time supplied\\nwith nourishment from the parent plant. It is a convenient method of\\nrooting large pieces of a bush, and should be practiced where small\\nquantities of certain things are desired, especially those which are diffi-\\ncult to increase by other methods of propagation. In layering it is\\nnecessary to select branches near the ground, so that they can be bent\\ndown without breaking. To perform the operation by tongueing, with\\na sharp knife make an incision in the lower part of the branch at the\\nplace where it is desired to have the roots. The incision should vary in\\nlength and depth with the thickness of the branch; it should never be\\ndeeper than half the thickness of the wood, and should be made toward\\nthe end of the branch so that the tongue will eventually form the base\\nof the stem after being separated from the parent plant. The layer,\\nwhile undergoing the process of rooting, should be held in place with a\\npeg, which must be strong enough to last several months in the ground.\\nWith few exceptions shrubs and vines are layered during Summer while\\nthe plants are in active growth. In layering, it should be kept in mind\\nthat the soil surrounding the part from which roots are desired should\\nnever be allowed to get dust dry; to prevent this a little sphagnum\\nmoss should be placed around the cut part, in cases where the rooting\\nis a slow process; and a layer of moss, or other material, on the surface\\nof the soil will prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. But, in\\nany case, copious waterings during dry weather will be found beneficial.\\nIn the treatment of vines, such plants as Glycine sinensis and Pueraria\\nThunbergiana can be layered the entire length of the previous season s\\ngrowth, thus giving a plant at every joint. The period at which the\\nlayer may be severed from the parent must be governed by the quantity\\nof roots made. Better to keep it on the plant than to sever too early.\\nAfter a season has elapsed the majority will have rooted, if attention\\nhas been given; but it will not hurt to let them stay for a longer period\\nattached to the old plant. For furnishing suitable wood for layers, old\\nplants are sometimes cut down quite close ^to the ground, in order to\\nproduce a quantity of young growth. Plants so treated are termed\\nstools. Some of the plants which layer easily are Rhododendrons,\\nEnkianthus, Gordonias, Magnolias, especially the Asiatic species and", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "182 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.\\ntheir hybrid variations, Syringas, Forsythias, Ligustrums and the\\nHybrid Perpetual Koses.\\nHYBRIDIZATION.\\nMuch has been accomplished by the union of species, and especially by\\nthe crossing of varieties; but the work is only in its infancy, because\\nthat which has already been done has been, to a large extent, chance\\nwork. We do not possess well-established rules for guidance in the\\nselection of parents. Much labor has unwittingly been expended\\nupon impossible subjects, through a desire on the part of the oper-\\nator to produce some astonishing result all at once. Even from\\nplants which readily cross, many seedlings are raised, which, be-\\ncause of poor judgment used in selection of parents, only result in\\ndiscouraging the breeder. Beginners who are inclined to practice\\nhybridizing should confine their attenion toward improving types\\nwhich are already well advanced, possibly using a desirable spe-\\ncies as a seed parent, but fighting shy of crossing two species. To prose-\\ncute the actual work inteligently, the operator should have at least a\\nslight knowledge of the relationship of one species to another as well as\\nof the genera and natural orders. A knowledge of the different parts of\\na flower and the missions they are intended to fulfill are absolutely\\nnecessary. It may be briefly stated that most flowers have male and\\nfemale organs in the same flower, such as we find in flowers of the Eose.\\nSome plants have the male and female organs on separate flowers, but\\non the same plant as in Begonia. Others again have the male flowers\\non one plant, and the female flowers on another, as in Nepenthes and\\nWillow. Artificial pollination consists simply in transferring the pollen\\nfrom the anther of one flower to the stigma of another. To make sure\\nthat this pollen will have every opportunity to act, and pollen of the\\nsame or other plants, which is not wanted, excluded, the stamens or\\nmale organs of the flower to be pollinated should be removed before the\\nanthers are in a condition to shed their pollen, and the flower afterward\\ntied up in a very fine gauze, or paper bag, during the process of fertili-\\nzation.\\nPOTTING PLANTS.\\nNo rules can be laid down which would apply equally to all kinds of\\nplants grown in pots, as different kinds of plants require different treat-\\nment in this respect. Some require that the soil be rammed quite firmly\\nabout the old ball. These, as a rule, are hard-wooded plants, with fine\\nroots, such as Heaths and Azaleas. Palms thrive best in a moderately\\nwell-firmed soil. Soft-growing plants are less fastidious in this respect.\\nAgain, there are seasons when some plants should be potted. The hard-\\nwooded kinds are usually potted in Spring before active growth com-\\nmences. Ferns are given their annual shift before starting into growth;\\nmany of them, however, will stand shifting several times during a year.\\nBut for all plants it may be stated that the beginning of their resting\\nseason should find the ball of earth well supplied with roots, for if given\\na shift when growth is completed water will lodge in the fresh soil, and\\nthis will turn sour and almost certainly cause the plant to become", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 183\\nsickly. Plants with fine hair-like roots should only be given small\\nshifts; rapid growing plants and those with large roots will take larger\\nshifts. In every case the ball should be moderately moist when potting.\\nPlants in the younger stages of their existence, whether seedlings or\\ncuttings, require the soil to be of a finer nature than when older, when\\nit may be rough and fibrous, and in the case of those which need it\\nmanure of some kind added. In potting ordinary plants in pots above\\nthe size of 4 or 5-inch, the firming of the soil should be done with the\\naid of a piece of wood about iy 2 inches wide and 14-inch thick, or larger,\\nfor very large plants. Enough space should always be left at the top of\\nthe pot, so that when the ball of earth is in need of water one applica-\\ntion will be sufficient to wet it through. In potting cuttings it is the\\nusual custom to put in soil to one-third the depth of the pot; the cut-\\nting is put in place, the remaining space filled up with soil, firmed with\\nthe thumbs, then the bottom of the pot is knocked several times on the\\nbench. A better method is to have the knocking precede the firming\\nwith the thumbs, for this reason When the cutting is placed in posi-\\ntion, the soil added and thumb- firmed, the soil does not get well distri-\\nbuted among the rootlets nearly so well as when the pot is given one or\\ntwo gentle knocks before the thumbs are used. For most plants in the\\ncutting stage the thumbs should be used for evening the surface more\\nthan for firming. Another reason, just as weighty as the last, is that\\npressure from the thumb acts unevenly on the roots, pressing down\\nopposite sections, while the intervening spaces containing the tender\\nroots are stationary. This must necessarily result in twisting and\\nwrenching, which dangers are done away with, or at least lessened, by\\nfirst firming with the knocking process. Again, all the cuttings of a\\nbatch will not have the same quantity of roots, and therefore they\\nshould get different methods of treatment in potting. Those which\\nhave a satisfactory number of roots may be put in the middle of the\\npot, according to the usual custom; but those which have few roots,\\nand which look as if they would benefit by being left in the cutting bed\\nfor a longer period, will, as a rule, come along all right if placed at the\\nedge of the pot instead of at the middle. The roots in this position\\nmake progress rapidly, and the plantlets can easily be given a place\\nin the middle of a pot during their next shift. Cuttings with very fine\\nroots should always be treated in this way. Many cuttings, when\\nready for potting, will be found to have the roots pointing downward\\nfrom the base of the cutting instead of radiating from it; these, if of a\\ndelicate and easily bruised nature, can be preserved by taking some soil\\nin one hand, letting the fingers accompany it into the pot, and before\\nwithdrawing them press the soil against one side of the pot; place the\\nroots against this and fill up with soil. In course of time practice will\\nenable the operator to pot cuttings as rapidly by this as by the ordinary\\nmethod. In potting cuttings during the Winter months very great care\\nshould be exercised in preventing a check through putting them in soil,\\nwhich is of a lower temperature than the sand from which they have\\nbeen taken. It should not vary more than two degrees at the time of\\npotting.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "184 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.\\nClean Pots\u00e2\u0080\u0094 It is the common custom, and a bad one I think, to put\\nplants in dirty pots with merely the rough of the soil remaining in them\\nbeing removed with a stick or cloth before using. This operation takes\\nmore time than washing. A large number of pots submerged in a big\\ntub of water and allowed to stand for a few days will have the material\\nadhering to them softened so that with a piece of woolen cloth and a\\nboy that knows how, a large number can be cleaned in a short time so\\nthat they will be as good as new. There is no doubt that dirty pots\\nwork to the injury of the plants in them. The inside soil adhering to the\\npot after use prevents a plant being easily knocked out and the green\\non the outside tends to make the pot less porous; besides, a plant looks\\nbetter by far in a clean pot than in a dirty one. New pots or thoroughly\\ndried, clean ones should not be used until they have been dipped in\\nwater immediately before using, as they are apt to absorb too much of\\nthe water meant for the plant after potting. Have divisions in the\\npotting shed for each size; it saves both time and pots, and when pot-\\nting is to be done everything goes along more smoothly when the vari-\\nous materials are ready at hand. There is usually more time wasted in\\ngathering the necessary sizes from here, there and everywhere, wiping\\nout a few at a time and punching a stick through the aperture at the\\nbottom than would be spent over the work if it were properly done.\\nSystem counts in this as in everything else.\\nDrainage\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Crocking or arranging pieces of broken pots or other mate-\\nrial over the hole in the bottom of the flower pot for drainage is an\\noperation to which too little attention is apt to be given. For quick-\\ngrowing soft-wooded plants in small pots, or for those which are\\nintended to remain in the pot only for a short time, there is no necessity\\nfor an elaborate system of drainage. Especially is this the case where\\nthe ball of earth becomes so dry as to require watering at least once a\\nday. With plants of this nature, in pots above the size of 3-inch, a little\\nrough material thrown in the bottom will give compensatory results;\\nbut as usually done this work takes more time than if the pots were\\nsupplied in the regular way with potsherds. The rough pieces of the\\npotting soil are gathered up by hand and put in the pots as potting\\nproceeds. A better way will be secured as follows: Soil which is to be\\nused for cuttings, and which is screened, will give excellent material in\\nthe rough pieces which do not pass through the meshes; this should be\\nsaved, mixed with thoroughly rotted cow manure, and put in a box\\nconveniently situated for future use. This gives splendid material for\\ndrainage, especially for bedding plants, such as Geraniums in 4-inch\\npots, Cannas in 5-inch pots, and for young Chrysanthemums. It will\\nbe found that that part of the pot holding this mixture will have a great\\nattraction for the roots. Where the pots are to serve for growing plants\\nin for any length of time, potsherds should be used. With Palms, Ferns\\nand such plants as Pandanus, Dracaenas and Marantas a carefully\\ncrocked pot cuts quite a figure in their healthy root action. For Cala-\\ndiums, Alocasias, Anthuriums and other plants which require an abun-\\ndant supply of water, careful drainage is an absolute necessity. With\\nfine-rooted plants, such as Heaths and Azaleas, drainage is equally\\nimportant. It will be found good policy to have a supply of the differ-", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 185\\nent sizes of crocks on hand all the time. The crocks should consist of\\nthree sizes, the largest size in pieces from two to three inches across;\\nthe next large enough to go through a No. 1 sieve, and the small size\\nfrom one-quarter to one-half-inch in diameter. The quickest way to\\nprocure the different sizes is to breakup the potsherds with a good-sized\\nhammer, so that the largest pieces are from two to three inches across;\\nput into a No. 4 or 6 sieve to screen out the dust and smaller particles,\\nwhich may be thrown away. Next screen through a half-inch sieve and\\nthese will serve as the smallest-sized crocks. The pieces which the half-\\ninch sieve retain put into an inch sieve. This will give the second size,\\nand what is left will answer for pieces to put over the holes in the bot-\\ntoms of the pots. All three sizes should be kept in separate boxes, or\\ndivisions on the potting bench, handy for use. In crocking, spread out\\na number of pots on the bench, take a piece of broken pot about twice\\nthe diameter, of the hole in the bottom of the pot, place the concave side\\nof the crock directly over the hole. If the pot is a small one, a few of\\nthe smaller-sized crocks over the larger pieces will be sufficient; but if a\\n6-inch pot, or larger, it is best to arrange a few large pieces around the\\nfirst piece, finishing off with smaller ones. On top of the crocks, to pre-\\nvent the soil from getting among them, either during the operation of\\npotting or from being washed down afterward, sphagnum moss is often\\nused, although this is not the best material for the purpose, as it is apt\\nto retain moisture to a greater extent than the soil above it. Half\\ndecomposed -leaves are preferable.\\nt\\nSOIL.\\nLoam is the principal soil used for most plants. If containing\\nmuch clay it is made lighter and more porous by adding peat, leaf\\nmould and sand. Each grower of plants should have the loam he uses\\nanalyzed by a professional analyst, in order to be certain of what it\\ncontains, and to apply intelligently the constituents in which it is defi-\\ncient for the different classes of plants. Two excellent books on this\\nsubject are: The Soil, by Professor King, Wisconsin, and Lectures\\non Some of the Physical Properties of Soil, by Professor K. Warington.\\nMULCHING.\\nThis consists of covering the surface of the soil with any loose\\nmaterial, such as well-rotted manure, cocoanut fiber, stable litter,\\nor half-decayed leaves. It acts in retaining the moisture in the ground\\nfor the benefit of vegetation instead of being lost by rapid evaporation.\\nThe soil, especially after heavy rainstorms, gets a firm crust on the sur-\\nface which ultimately cracks open, readily parting with the moisture\\nto a good distance beneath the surface; thus the mulch acts as a layer\\nbetween the drying influence of the atmosphere and the surface of the\\nsoil, preventing it from getting hard and keeping it open. A good mulch,\\nbesides preventing evaporation is, to a certain extent, similar in its\\naction to a loose, silty surface soil, drawing up the moisture from several\\nfeet below the surface. Mulching is also beneficial, because if manure is", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "186 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.\\nused in which there is any feeding substance it is washed down to the\\nroots of the plants by heavy rains. Cultivating acts in a similar man-\\nner to mulching, as the soil which is loosened may be said to be a mulch\\nof loose soil but to be of the greatest service this operation should be\\nperformed after every shower of rain. Plants in pots need the surface\\nstirred occasionally, partly for the same reason that plants in the open\\nground are benefited by frequent cultivating. The top layer of soil in\\nthe pots gets into a caked condition; this is indicated at times by the\\nwater standing on the surface longer than usual, and is caused by the\\nparticles of soil being reduced by the action of the water to a muddy\\nstate, forming a kind of puddle through which water takes a long while\\nto percolate. When potting, a little rough sand scattered on the surface\\nis an excellent preventive, keeping the whole mass porous and doing\\naway with the necessity of frequent stirring.\\nWATERING.\\nThis is the most important work that falls to the lot of the plant\\ngrower. It cannot be learned by reading a paper or a book on the sub-\\nject, and the man who wields the watering can, or hose, no matter how\\nintelligent he may be, will water plants for years after a fashion, and\\nyet have a great deal to learn. About all that can be said on the sub-\\nject is to water a plant when it needs it. The trouble lies in knowing\\nwhen it needs it. The operator should first know the plant, all about\\nit, where it comes from, whether it inhabits a bog or a mountain top,\\nwhether it is rapid or slow growing, its natural periods of growth and\\nrest, and the same under cultivation. Next he must know the condi-\\ntion of the roots, the kind of soil it is potted in and when potted.\\nAmong other things he should know will be the chemical composition\\nof the water, and whether it is suitable for the plants he is watering.\\nThe temperatures of the soil and water during the operation is another\\nimportant item. Next he should frequently go over different plants in\\ndifferent soils, knock one out of its pot here and there an hour or so\\nafter watering, to ascertain whether the ball has been wet an inch or\\ntwo below the surface with the remainder dust dry, or if the happy\\nmedium has been struck. In short, it may be said that the successful\\ncultivator understands how and when to water only after years of\\nexperience. Watering with the hose is often the cause of a good deal of\\nharm, both to plants on benches, in the open ground, and in pots, owing\\nto the manner in which water is applied. It is a favorite method with\\nsome to force the water out of a small nozzle to a distance of 20 feet, or\\na less distance, with the finger partly over the end of the hose. A better\\nmethod than this could not be designed for the packing of the soil,\\nwashing it into cakes by breaking it up into fine particles and filling up\\nthe interstices with thick muddy water; and when the sun shines, if the\\nground be not gone over with the cultivator or loosened up in some\\nother way, the surface soil gets as hard as a brick, and the roots near\\nthe surface are subjected to a temperature far above what is good for\\nthem. To do away with the necessity for this method of watering the\\nhose should be short in length, and stop cocks more frequently placed.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 187\\nFor outside work lengths of temporary iron piping screwed into posi-\\ntion wherever necessary should be provided so as to use the hose low\\ndown among the plants, never allowing the water to be squirted on the\\nsoil. A good plan is to use distributors, one nf which can be made in a\\nfew minutes if the necessary material is at hand. Take a piece of zinc,\\nabout a foot long and 5 inches wide, bend the sides for half its length\\nso as to clasp the end of the hose to hold it in position, and tie with\\nwire. The other end should overlap the end of the hose by about 6\\ninches, and be turned up slightly so as to meet the water, distributing\\nit in such a manner as will enable the soil to absorb it without being\\ndisturbed in the least. This will also prevent the foliage and flowers\\nfrom being spattered with muddy water.", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "188\\nINDEX.\\nA\\nNamb Page\\nAbelia rupestris\\n(Rock Abelia) 147\\nAbutilon 9\\nAcacia 9\\nAcaena microphylla...lll\\nAcalypha 50\\nhispida 9\\nAcanthus Ill\\nAcer 147\\npalmatum japonl-\\ncum 147\\nAchillea millefolium... Ill\\nmongolica ill\\nptarmica flore-\\npleno.. Ill\\ntomentosa Ill\\nAchimenes 79\\nAchy ran thes (Iresine) 58\\nAclphylla Colensoi ....112\\nsquarrosa 112\\nAconitum 112\\nAcorus calamus varie-\\ngatus (variegated\\nSweet Flag) 112\\nAdam s Needle(Yucca)l 75\\nAdenocalymna como-\\nsum 67\\nAdiantum\\n(Maidenhair) 101\\nCapillus- Veneris 66\\nFarleyense 101\\nfrom spores 102\\npropagation by\\ndivision 102\\nAdonis 112\\nJSthionema eordifo-\\nlium 112\\nAgapanthus umbel-\\nlatus 9\\nAgathaea coelestis 10\\nAgave americana 10\\nAgeratum mexicanum 50\\nAgrostemma\\nLychnis coronaria 11 3\\nflos-Jovis 113\\nAjuga 113\\nAkebia quinata 67\\nAlabama Snow-\\nwreath (Neviusa\\nalabamensis) 163\\nAllamandas 10\\nAlocasia 10\\nAloysia citriodora 11\\nAlternanthera 50\\nNamb Pagb\\nAlthaea rosea\\n(Hollyhock) 113\\nAlthaea, shrubby\\n(Hibiscus syriacus) 157\\nAlum Root\\n(Heuchera) 134\\nAlyssum (Madwort) .113\\nmaritimum\\n(Kceniga) 50\\nAmaranthus 50\\nAmaryllis\\n(Hippeastrum) ...11, 79\\npropagation by off-\\nsets 80\\nraising plants from\\nseeds 80\\nAmorpha fruticosa\\n(Bastard Indigo)... 147\\nAmorphophallus 80\\nAmpelopsis Roylei 67\\nVeitchii 67\\nAnanas 11\\nAndropogon Schsenan-\\nthus (Lemon Grass) 92\\nAnemone 80\\nalpina 114\\njaponica 114\\ntuberous rooted 114\\nAnnual plants 51\\nAnthericum varlega-\\ntum 11\\nAnthurium 11\\nAntlgonon leptopus 68\\nAntirrhiQum\\n(Snapdragon) 114\\nAponogeton distach-\\nyon 12\\nAquilegia(Columbine) 115\\nArabis (Rock Cress) ..116\\nAralia 12\\nChabrierii 12\\n(Fatsia) japonica... 12\\njaponica\\n(Angelica Tree) ...147\\nvariegata 13\\npapyrifera 116, 131\\nAraucarias 13\\nArauja (Schubertia)\\ngrandiflora 68\\nArdisia 13\\nArgemone(DeviFsFig)116\\nAristolochittelegans.. 68\\nsipho 68\\nSturtevantii 68\\nArmeria (Sea Pink). ..117\\nIUmb Paob\\nArundo donax 92\\nvariegata 92\\nAsclepias Curassa-\\nvica 51\\ntuberosa\\n(Pleurisy Root)... 117\\nAsparagus 14\\nplumosus 14\\nnanus 69\\nas a pot plant 69\\nforshort sprays 69\\nraising from\\nseed 69\\nSprengerii 14\\ntenuissimus 14, 70\\nAsperula adorata\\n(Sweet Woodruff) ..117\\nAspidistra 14\\nelatlor 66\\nvariegata 66\\npunctata 66\\nAspidium capense 103\\nAsplenium 15, 103\\nAster\\n(Michaelmas Daisy )117\\nAsters, Chinese (Cal-\\nlistephus chinensis) 51\\nAstilbe (Spiraea)\\njaponica 118\\nAubrietia deltoidea...H8\\nAucuba japonica 148\\nAzalea 15, 148\\nnewly imported\\nplants 15\\nremoving side\\ngrowths 15\\ntreatment during\\nsummer 15\\nB\\nBalsams 52\\nZ anzibar I m\\npatiens Sultani) 52\\nBamboo 92\\nBambusa 92\\nBanana (Musa) 51\\nM. ensete 51\\nsuperba 52\\nBaptisia perfoliata....ll8\\nBarberry\\n(Berberis Thunbergi)149\\nBay tree\\n(Laurus nobills) 161\\nBegonia..... 15,53\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094bedding varieties of 53", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "INDEX.\\n189\\nNamb Pagk\\nBegonia coralllna..l6, 53\\nEvanslana 118\\nGloire de Lorraine.. 16\\nRex, leaf cuttings ol 17\\nsowing seed 16\\ntuberous- rooted\\nsection 16\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094winter bloomers 16\\nBellflower\\n(Campanula) 119\\nChinese 141\\nBellls perennls 53\\nBerberls Thunbergl\\n(Barberry) 149\\nvulgaris 149\\nBignonia venusta 70\\nBird Cherry\\n(Prunus padus) 165\\nBladder Nut\\n(Staphylea) 173\\nBleeding Heart ...130\\nBlood Root (Sanguin-\\naria canadensis) 141\\nBocconia cordata\\n(Plume Poppy) 119\\nBougalnvillea 17\\niateritia 70\\nspectabilis.. 70\\nBouncing Bet (Sapo-\\nnarla officinalis) 142\\nBoussingaultia basel-\\nloldes(MadeiraVine) 70\\nBouvardla 18\\nBrowallla 18\\nelata 53\\nspeclosa 53\\nBrunfelsia 18\\nBryonia iacinlosa 70\\nBulbous plants 80\\nBulbs, forcing 84\\noutdoor 85\\nspring 85\\nBurning Bush 130\\nc\\nCactus 18\\nCaladium 18\\nargyrites 81\\nfancy-leaved 81\\nodoratum (Colo-\\ncasia odorata) 82\\npreparations for lift-\\ning tubers 82\\npropagation 82\\nstarting tubers 81\\nstoring 82\\nCalathea 19\\npropagation 19\\nCalceolaria 19\\nCalico Bush\\n(Kalmia latifolia) ..160\\nCalla 90\\nCallicarpa 150\\nCallirhoe 119\\nCallistemon speciosus 20\\nCalycanthus (Sweet-\\nScented Shrub) 150\\npraecox.... 151\\nName Page\\nCamellia 20\\nCampanula 119\\nCandytuft (Iberis) 134\\nCannas 53\\nfor winter blooming 20\\nraising from seed.... 54\\nstoring 54\\nvarieties 53\\nwith ornamental\\nfoliage 54\\nCarludovica 20\\nCarnation (Dianthus\\nCaryophyllus) 126\\ncuttings 127\\nmaterial for 127\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094disbudding 129\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094feeding 129\\nlifting and plant-\\ning 128\\nMarguerite 130\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094planting in the field. 128\\npropagating house\\nand benches 127\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094sand 127\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil 129\\nsupports 129\\nsyringing 129\\ntemperature 129\\nto follow chrysan-\\nthemums 130\\ntreatment during\\nrooting 128\\nvarieties 130\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094ventilation 129\\nCaryopteris masta-\\ncanthus 150\\nCastor Bean(Ricinus) 63\\nCatananche coerulea ..120\\nCatchfly (Silene) 143\\nCedar, Japan 153\\nCelandine Double 121\\nCentaurea.. 120\\nCentradenia 21\\nCentropogon 21\\nCerastium Bieber-\\nsteinil 121\\nCerasus laurocerasus.150\\nCercis japonica (Red\\nBud, Judas Tree) ...151\\nCestrum corymbosum 21\\nNewelli 21\\nChsenostoma hispida. 54\\nChaste Tree\\n(Vitex agnus-castus)174\\nCheiranthus Cheirl\\n(Wallflower) 121\\nChelidonium majus\\nflore-pleno\\n(Double Celandine). 121\\nChimonanthus\\nfragrans 151\\nChionanthus virginica\\n(Fringe Tree) 151\\nChildsia (Hidalgoa)\\nWercklei 70\\nChristmas Rose\\n(Helleborus). 133\\nChrysanthemums 121\\nName Page\\nChrysanthemum coc-\\ncineum 125\\ninsects 124\\nlate-flowering\\nplants 122\\nleucanthemum 125\\nparthenifolium 125\\npropagating for\\ngeneral crop 122\\nraising new varie-\\nties 124\\nselecting the bud ....122\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil 123\\nspecimen plants 123\\nstock plants 121\\ntypes or races 124\\nuliginosum 125\\nvarieties 124\\nventilation 123\\nCibotium (Dicksonia)\\nSchiedel 103\\nCineraria 21\\ncandidissima 54\\nmaritima 54\\nCinquefoil, shrubby\\nPotentillafruticosa)165\\nCissus discolor 71\\nCistus villosus 151\\nCitrus trifoliata 151\\nClematis 71, 125\\ngrafting large-\\nflowered varieties 71\\npaniculata 71\\nClerodendron specio-\\nsum 72\\nThomsons 72\\ntrichotonum 152\\nClitoria ternatea 72\\nCobaea scandens 72\\nCodiaaum\\n(Crotons) 22, 23, 54\\nColumbine (Aqullegia 115\\nConeflower\\n(Rudbeckla) 141\\nConvallaria majalls... 83\\nColeus 55\\nConvolvulus 21\\nCordylines 22, 66\\nornamental leaved\\nkinds 22\\nCoreopsis 125\\nCornflower\\n(Centaurea) 120\\nCornus florida (Flow-\\nering Dogwood) 152\\nCosmos bipinnatus.... 55\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094supports for 55\\nCotoneaster micro-\\nphylla 152\\nCotton Lavender\\n(Santolina incana).142\\nCotyledon\\n(Echeveria) 27, 56\\nCowslip, American.... 131\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Virginian 137\\nCrape Myrtle (Lager-\\nstroemia indlca) 161\\nCrataegu8(Hawthorn)152", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "190\\nINDEX.\\nNamb Pagb\\nCrataegus pyracan-\\ntha. 153\\nCrinum 83\\nPowellii 83\\nCroton\\n(Codiseum) 22,23,54\\nCrotons, ringing.... 23, 24\\nCryptomeria japonica\\n(Japan Cedar) 153\\nCuphea Llavse 56\\nplatycentra 56\\nCurculigo 24\\nCycas 24\\nCyclamen 25\\nCydonia japonica\\n(Japan Quince) 153\\nMaulei 154\\nCyperus alternif ollus 92\\nCyrtomium(aspidium)\\nfalcatum 103\\nCytisus 26\\nD\\nDactylis glomerata\\nvariegata 93\\nDahlias 56\\npropagation 56\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil 57\\nvarieties 56\\nDaisy, Michaelmas.... 117\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Ox eye 125\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Paris 43\\nDalechampia Roez-\\nliana 26\\nDaphne cneorum 154\\nDavallia 103\\nMariesii 103\\nMooreana 103\\nDelphinium\\n(Larkspur) 125\\nDesmodium gyrans... 26\\nDeutzia scabra 154\\nDianthus (Carnation\\nPink) 126\\nCaryophyllus 126\\nDicentra eximia 130\\nspectabilis\\n(Bleeding Heart) .130\\nDichorisandra thyrsi-\\nflora 27\\nDlcksonia antarctica.104\\nBarometz 104\\nDictamnus fraxinella\\n(Burning Bush) 130\\nDieffenbachias 27\\nDior villa (Weigelia)...155\\nDigitalis purpurea\\n(Fox Glove,\\nWitches Thimbles)130\\nDodecatheon\\n(American Cowslip)131\\nDogwood, Flowering\\n(Cornus florida) 152\\nDoronicum\\n(Leopard s Bane). ..131\\nDracaena 26\\nfragrans 26\\nNamb Pagb\\nDracaena Godseffi-\\nana 26\\nGoldieana 26\\nLindenii 26\\nMassangeana 26\\nSanderiana 26\\nDrosera binata 27\\nE\\nEcheveria (Cotyle-\\ndon) gibbiflora\\nmetallica 27\\nEdelweiss (Leontopo-\\ndium alplnum) 136\\nEichornea\\n(Water Hyacinth).. 28\\nazurea 28\\nElymus glaucus 93\\nEmpress Tree (Pau-\\nlownia imperialis) ..164\\nEpiphyllums 28\\nEranthemum pulchel-\\nlum 29\\nErianthus ravenna?... 93\\nErica (Heath) 155\\nEricas 29\\nErpetion (Viola)\\nreniforme. 131\\nErythrinas 29, 57\\npropagation 29\\nEucharis amazonica.. 84\\nEulalia (Miscanthus). 93\\nEuonymus\\n(Spindle Tree) 155\\nradicans variegata.156\\nEupatorium probum. 29\\nEuphorbia(Poinsettia)\\npulcherrima 30\\nelegans 31\\nEurya latifolia\\nvariegata 31\\nExacum amne 31\\nExochorda grandi-\\nflora (Pearl Bush). .156\\nF\\nFarfugium grande.66, 131\\nFatsia (Aralia) papy-\\nrifera (Rice Paper\\nPlant) 116, 131\\nFerns 101\\ncool house, summer\\nquarters for 108\\ninsect enemies of 110\\nshading 108\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil for 108\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094spores, gathering\\nand sowing 109\\npreparing soil for 109\\nviviparous 109\\nFerula communis 132\\nFestuca glauca 93\\nFicus elastica 31, 57\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094cuttings 32\\nhouse-grown plants 32\\nindoors, for stock\\nplants \u00c2\u00bb32\\nTTAmb Pagb\\nFicus mossing, out-\\nof-doors 31\\nslow-rooting species 32\\nForcing bulbs 84\\nForget-me-not\\n(Myosotis) 137\\nForsythia 156\\nFour O Clock 59\\nFragaria indica\\n(Rock Strawberry) 132\\nFreesias 85\\nFringe Tree (Chion-\\nanthus virginica) ...151\\nFuchsia 32\\nFunkia\\n(Plaintaln Lily) 132\\novata 132\\nSieboldiana 132\\nsub-cordata 132\\nFurcraea 34\\nFurze(Ulex europa;us)174\\nO\\nGaillardia aristata....l32\\nGalax aphylla 132\\nGardenias 34\\nGazanias 57\\nGentiana (Gentian). ..133\\nGeranium 57\\nsanguineum 133\\nGladiolus 86\\nGloriosa Plantii\\nsuperba 86\\nGloxinias 34\\ndiseases of 35\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil for 35\\nGoat s Beard(Spira3a)143\\nGolden Feather 125\\nGordonia\\n(Loblollv Bay) 156\\nGorse (Whin, Furze,\\nUlex europaeus) 174\\nGrevillea ro busta 35\\nGuelder Rose (Vibur-\\nnum, Snowball) 174\\nGynerium argenteum\\n(Pampas Grass) 93\\nGypsophila 133\\nH\\nHsemanthus 86\\nHalesia\\n(Snowdrop Tree) ...156\\nHamelia patens 35\\nHawthorn\\n(Cratsegus) ..152\\nHeath (Erica).... 155\\nHedera helix\\n(English Ivy) 72\\nHedychium 35\\nHeeriaalba 36\\nrosea 36\\nHelianthus\\n(Sunflower) 133\\nHeliotrope 57\\nHelleborus\\n(Christmas Rose) ...133", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "INDEX.\\n191\\nName Page\\nHemerocallis\\n(Day Lily) 133\\nHepatica triloba 134\\nHeuchera(A.lum Root)134\\nHibiscus 36\\nsyriacus\\n(Shrubby Althaea). 157\\nHippeastrum\\nAmaryllis) 79\\nHolly (Ilex) 158\\nHollyhock 113\\nHoneysuckle (Bush)\\nLonicera.. 162\\nHouse Leek\\n(Sempervivum) 143\\nHorse Chestnut,\\nsmooth fruited\\n(Pavia macro-\\nstachya) 164\\nHoya carnosa 73\\nHumulus japonicus\\nvariegatus 73\\nHunnemannia i fuma-\\nrisefolia 57\\nHyacinths, Roman.... 84\\nforcing 84\\nin pans 85\\nHydrangeas for pots. 36\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094forcing 36\\nHortensis 157\\npaniculata grandi-\\nflora 158\\nquercifolia 157\\nHypericum\\n(St. John s Wort) ..158\\nI\\nIberis (Candytuft) 134\\nIlex (Holly) 158\\ncornuta 159\\nImantophyllum 37\\nImpatiens Sultani\\n(Zanzibar Balsam). 52\\nInga pulcherrima 37\\nIpomsea 73\\nBriggsii 73\\ngrandiflora\\n(Moonflower) 74\\ntubiculata 66\\nIresine (Achyranthes) 58\\nIris 86, 135\\npropagation 135\\nIsotoma longiflora 58\\nItea virginica 159\\nIvy English 72\\nGerman 65\\nIxoras 37\\nJ\\nJasminum grandi-\\nflorum 37\\nnudiflorum\\n(Chinese naked-\\nflowered Jasmine)160\\nJudas tree (Cercls\\njaponica) 151\\nJuniperus (Juniper). 160\\nNamb Page\\nJusticia (Schaueria)\\ncalytricha 37\\n(Jacobinia) carnea. 37\\nrosea 37\\nK\\nKadsura Japonica 74\\nKalmia latifolia\\n(Calico Bush) 160\\nKerria japonica 160\\nwhite, (Rhodoty-\\npos kerrioides) ...166\\nKniphofia aloides 136\\nKoelreuteria panicu-\\nlata 161\\nL\\nLachenalias 86\\nLagerstroemia lndica\\n(Crape Myrtle) 161\\nLantana 58\\nLapageria alba 74\\nrosea 74\\nLarkspur\\n(Delphinium) 125\\nLastrea opaca 66\\nprolifica 66\\nLathyrus latifolius\\nalbus 74\\nLaurus nobilis\\n(Bay Tree) 161\\nLeontopodium alpi-\\nnum (Edelweiss) ....136\\nLespedeza bicolor 136\\nLiboniapenrhosiensis 37\\nLigustrum Privet) .161\\nLilac (Syringa) 173\\nLilium 87\\nauratum 89\\nHarrisii 89\\nlongiflorum 89\\npreparing bulbs for\\npotting 88\\nspeciosum 88\\nLily, Day 133\\nLily of the Valley 83\\nplaintain (Funkia).132\\nLimnocharis Hum-\\nboldtii 96\\nLindelofla spectabilisl36\\nLobelia 136\\nerinus 58\\nLoblolly Bay\\n(Gordonia) 156\\nLomaria gibba 104\\nLonicera\\n(Bush Honeysuckle)162\\nsempervirens\\n(Woodbine) 75\\nLopezia racemosa\\n(Mosquito Plant) 37\\nLychnis 136\\n(Agrostemma) coro-\\nnaria 113\\nLycopods 101\\nLysimachia\\n(Loosestrife) 137\\nNamb Page\\nLysimachia nummu-\\nlaria (Moneywort).. 66\\nLythrum salicaria\\n(Purple Loosestrife)137\\nM\\nMadeira Vine 70\\nMagnolia 162\\nMahernia glabrata.... 38\\nMalvaviscus arboreus 38\\nmollis 38\\nManettia bicolor 76\\ncordifolia 75\\nMaples (Japanese). ...147\\nMaranta 38\\nMarvel of Peru 59\\nMeadow Sweet\\n(Spiraea) 143\\nMedinilla 38\\nMertensia virginica\\n(Virginian Cowslip)137\\nMesembryanthemum. 58\\nMetrosideros robusta 38\\nsemperfiorens 38\\nMicrolepia (Davallia)\\nhirta cristata 104\\nMignonette (Reseda) 58\\nfor early flowering 59\\nMimulus moschatus.. 59\\nMint, Horse,\\n(Monarda) 137\\nMirabilis jalapa 59\\nMock Orange\\n(Philadelphus) 165\\nMonarda\\n(Horse Mint) 137\\nMonstera deliciosa.... 38\\nMorina longifolia 137\\nMullein (Verbascum).145\\nMusa coccinea 38\\nMussaendafrondosa.. 38\\nluteola 38\\nMyosotis\\n(Forget-me-not) 137\\nN\\nNarcissus 84\\npoeticus 89\\nNeiumbium 96\\ninsect enemies 97\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094raising plants from\\nseed 96\\nstarting dormant\\ntubers 96\\nNepenthes 39\\nNephrolepis 105\\nacuta 105\\ncordifolia 104\\npectinata 105\\ndavallioides 105\\nfurcans 104\\nexaltata 104\\nbostoniensis 104\\ncristata 104\\nwashingtoniensis ...104\\npendula 104\\nNerium (Oleander).... 39", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "192\\nINDEX.\\nNam* Page\\nNevlusa alabamensis\\n(Alabama Snow\\nWreath) 163\\nNierembergia frutes-\\ncene 59\\ngracilis 59\\nNlgelladamascena.... 59\\nNiphobolus lingua\\ncorymbifera 66\\nNymphsea 97\\nhardy sorts 98\\nraising from\\nseeds 99\\nstarting 98\\nnight-blooming\\nsection 97\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094soil for 98\\nstarting tubers into\\ngrowth 98\\nsummer quarters... 98\\ntenderkinds. The... 97\\nwintering 98\\no\\nOchna multiflora 39\\n(Enothera\\n(Evening Primrose)138\\nOnonis (Restharrow)138\\nOnosma stellulatum\\nvar. tauricum 138\\nOnychium 105\\nOphiopogon 138\\nOrchids 40\\nCalanthe 40\\nCattleyas 40\\nCoelogynecristata.. 40\\nCypripedium 41\\nDendrobium nobile. 41\\nLaelia anceps 41\\nOdontoglossum 41\\nOncidlum varicosum 41\\nvar. Rogersii... 41\\npotting material.... 41\\nOrobus (Lathyrus)\\nvernus(BitterVetch)138\\nOsmanthus 163\\nOthonna crassifolia\\nLittle Pickles) 66\\nOuvirandra fenes-\\ntralis 100\\nOxalis 59, 89\\nP\\nPachysandra 138\\nPsederia f oetida 76\\nPseonia 139\\nMoutan\\n(Shrubby Paeonia) .163\\nPalms 41\\nAreca (Chrysalido-\\ncarpus) lutescens.. 42\\nCaryota sobolifera 42\\nCeroxylon andicola 42\\nCocosplumosa 42\\nWeddeliana 42\\nCorypha australis.. 42\\nNamb Page\\nPalms, Kentia (Ho-\\nwea) Belmoreana... 42\\nForsteriana.... 42\\nLataniaborbonica. 42\\nLicuala grandis 42\\nLlvistona chinensis 42\\nJenkensii 42\\nrotundifolia 42\\nPhoenix rupicola 42\\nRhapis flabelli-\\nformis 42\\nSeaforthiaelegans.. 42\\nStevensonia grandi-\\nfolia 42\\nPandanus 60\\nutilis 43\\nVeitchii 43\\nPanicum variegatum 94\\nPansies (Viola) 60\\nto flower in frames. 60\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094tufted 61\\nPapaver (Poppy) 139\\nnudicaule 139\\nPapyrus antiquorum 94\\nParis Daisies 43\\nPassiflora ccerulea 76\\nincarnata 76\\nPaullinia thalictri-\\nfolia 43\\nPaulownia imperialis\\n(Empress Tree) 164\\nPavia macrostachya\\n(Smooth-fruited\\nHorse Chestnut) 164\\nPeach\\n(Persica vulgaris) ...164\\nPearl Bush\\n(Exochorda grandi-\\nflora) 155\\nPelargonium 61\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094fancy 62\\nivy-leaved section... 62\\nPennisetum longi-\\nstylum 94\\nPentas carnea 62\\nPentstemon 140\\nPeperomias 43\\nPereskias 43\\nPeristrophe angusti-\\nfolia 62\\nPersica vulgaris\\n(Peach) 164\\nPeriwinkle (Vinca) 145\\nPetrea volubilis 76\\nPetunias 62\\nPhiladelphus\\n(Mock Orange, Sy-\\nringa) 165\\nPhlox Drummondii... 62\\nsubulata\\n(Moss Pink) 140\\nPhormium tenax 43\\nPhygelius capensis ...140\\nPhyllagathis rotundi-\\nfolia 44\\nPhyllanthus atropur-\\npureus 44\\nnivosus 44\\nNamb Pass\\nPhyllotsenlum Lin-\\ndenii 44\\nPhysalis Franchetti..l40\\nPitcher Plant\\n(Sarracenia) 142\\nPlatycerlum alcicornelOS\\ngrande 105\\nPlatycodon grandi-\\nflorum\\n(Chinese Bellflower)141\\nPlumbago capensis... 63\\nPlume Poppy 119\\nPlumerlas, The 45\\nPolianthes tuberosa\\n(Tuberose) 89\\nPolypodium 106\\n(Phlebodium)\\naureum 106\\nconjugatum 106\\n(Goniophlebium)\\nsub-auriculatum .106\\nHeracleum 106\\n(Niphobolus)lingua.l06\\nPhymatodes 106\\nrigidulum 106\\nPomegranate, Dwarf\\n(Punica granatum\\nnana) 165\\nPoppy (Papaver) 139\\nPotentilla fruticosa\\n(Shrubby Cinquef oil)165\\nPrimrose 141\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Evening 138\\nPrimula 45, 141\\nfertilizing flowers... 46\\nfloribunda 45\\nForbesii 45\\nIsabellina 45\\nobconica 45\\nsinensis 45\\nPrivet (Ligustrum)...161\\nPrunus padus\\n(Bird Cherry) 165\\nPteris 107\\ncreticaalbo-lineata 107\\ninequalifolia 107\\nquadriaurita 107\\nserrulata 66\\ntremula 107\\nWallichii 107\\nPueraria Thunber-\\ngiana 76\\nPunica granatum\\nnana (Dwarf Pome-\\ngranate) 165\\nPyrethrum roseum ...125\\nPyrus (Crab Apple).. ..165\\nQ\\nQuince, Japan\\n(Cydonia japonica)!.153\\nR\\nRabbit Berry (Shep-\\nherdia argentea) 173\\nReinwardtia (Linum)\\ntrlgynum 46", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "INDEX.\\n193\\nName Page\\nReinwardtia tetragy-\\nnura 46\\nRhaphiolepis ovata...l66\\nRhododendron 166\\nRhodotypos ker\\nrioides 166\\nRhus cotinud\\n(Smoke Tree) 166\\nRichardia aethiopica\\n(Callaj 90\\nRicinus (Castor Bean) 63\\nRobina hispida 167\\nRochea (Crassula)\\nfaleata 46\\nRohdea japonica 66\\nRosa (Rose) 167\\ncultivation under\\nglass 170\\nfor outdoor bloom. 169\\nforcing 168\\npropagation 168\\nby grafting 171\\nby seeds 168\\nsummer 171\\nteas and hybrid\\nteas 169\\nRudbeckia (Cone-\\nflower) 141\\nRuellia macrantha.... 47\\nRuaselias 47\\ns\\nSaccharum ofncina-\\nrum violaceum 95\\nSt. John s Wort\\n(Hypericum) 158\\nSaintpaulia ionantha 47\\nSalvia leucantha 47\\npatens 47\\npratensis 141\\nsplendens 47, 63\\nBonfire 47\\nSanchezia nobilis 63\\nSanguinaria canaden-\\nsis (Blood Root) 141\\nSantolina incana..63, 142\\nSaponaria officinalis\\n(Bouncing Bet) 142\\nSarracenia\\n(Pitcher Plant) 142\\nSaxifraga sarmentosa\\n(Aaron s B\u00c2\u00bbard).65, 142\\nScutellaria (Skull- cap)142\\nSea Pink (Arrneria)...ll7\\nSedum (Stonecrop)....142\\nSelagiaella 107\\ncassia arborea 108\\nEmmeliana 107\\nerythropus 108\\nKraussiana 107\\nlepidophylla 1 08\\nMartensii 108\\nviticulosa 108\\nSempervivum\\n(House Leek) 143\\nSenecio scandens\\n(German Ivy) 65, 77\\nName Page\\nShepherdia argentea\\n(Rabbit Berry) 173\\nSilene (Catchfly) 143\\nSmilax (Myrsiphyllum\\nasparagoides) 77\\nSmoke Tree\\n(Rhus cotinus) 166\\nSnapdragon 114\\nSnowball (Viburnum,\\nGuelder Rosa) 174\\nSnowberry (Symphori-\\ncarpus race mosus).. 173\\nSnowdrop Tree\\n(Hale*ia 156\\nSolanum Wendlandii. 77\\nSphaerogyne latifolia. 48\\nSpindle Tree\\n(Euonvmus) 155\\nSpiraea (Meadow\\nS weet,Goat s Beard)143\\n(astilbe) japonica.... 118\\nshrubby 173\\nStachys lanata\\nHedge Nettle) 144\\nshrubby 173\\nStaphylea\\n(Bladder Nut) 173\\nStatice(Sea Lavender)144\\nStephanophysum\\n(Ruellia) longiflorum 49\\nStephanotis flori-\\nbunda 48\\nStevias 48\\nStigmaphyllon cilia-\\nturn (Butterfly Vine) 77\\nStipa pennata\\n(Feather Grass) 95\\nStonecrop (Sedum).... 142\\nStrawberry, Rock\\n(Fragaria indica)....132\\nStreptocarpus hybrids 48\\nStrobilanthes aniso-\\nphyllus 49\\nDyerianus 63\\nisophyllus 49\\nSunflower\\n(Helianthus) 133\\nSwainsona 63\\nSweet Peas 74\\nsupports for 74\\nSymphoricarpus rac^-\\nmosus (Snowberry) 173\\nSynadenium Grantii.. 49\\nSyringa (Lilac) 173\\nSyringa(Philadelphus,\\nMock Orange) 165\\nT\\nTagetes 63\\nTamarix 174\\nTanacetum vulgare\\n(Tansy) 144\\nTecoma grandiflora 77\\nThunbergia 78\\nThymus (Thyme) 144\\nTiarella cordifolia\\n(False Mitrewort)...144\\nName Page\\nTinnea aethiopica 49\\nTorenia Fournieri 64\\nTricyrtis hirta\\n(Japanese Toad-\\nLily) 144\\nTropaeolum\\n(Indian Cress) 64\\nToxicophlaea specta-\\nbilis 49\\nTrillium 90\\nTritoma uvaria 136\\nTuberoee 89\\nTulips 84\\nforcing 84\\noutdoor bulbs 85\\nU\\nUlex europaeus\\n(Whin,Gorse, Furze)174\\nUniola latifolia 95\\nV\\nValloradia (Plum-\\nbago) plumbagin-\\noides 144\\nVallota purpurea 90\\npropagation 90\\nVerbascum (Mullein).. 145\\nVerbenas 64\\nvenosa 64\\nVeronica (Speed well)..145\\nViburnum (Snowball,\\nGuelder Rose) 174\\nVictoria Regia, The... 100\\nVinca (Periwinkle) 145\\nmajor var. elegan-\\ntissima 66\\nrosea 64\\nViolas (Violets) 145\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094hardy 146\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094leaf spot on 146\\nVitex agnus-castus\\n(Chaste Tree) 174\\nVitis heterophylla\\nvariegata 7S\\nw\\nWallflower 121\\nWater Lilies, tender,\\nwintering 98\\nWater Plants,\\nlabels for 100\\nWeigelia (Diervilla)....l55\\nWistaria chinensis 78\\nX\\nXanthoceras sorbi-\\nfolia 175\\nY\\nYucca\\n(Adam s Needle) 175\\nz\\nZinnias 64", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0096\u00a0\u00e2\u0096\u00a0i r v\\n4-K-,", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "feifc*", "height": "3450", "width": "2167", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS", "height": "3599", "width": "2325", "jp2-path": "plantculturework04oliv_0202.jp2"}}