{"1": {"fulltext": "TS 650\\n.F5", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.\\nChap. Copyright No.\\nShelf.^E_\u00c2\u00a3_\\nUNITED STATES OF AMERICA.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING\\nAND TINNING\\nA Practical Treatise on Coating with Tin and Zinc\\nWITH A\\nSpecial Chapter on Tinning Gray Iron Castings\\nBY\\nW. T. KLANDKRS\\nPUBLISHED BY DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY\\n232-238 William St., New York\\n1900", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "63375\\nLitunu^f. of Con^Treea\\nI v^ CuftLij Received\\nOCT 19 1900\\nCofvrighl entry\\nSLCOND COPY.\\n0(ftiver\u00c2\u00abd to\\nORDt\u00c2\u00ab DIVISION,\\nOCT 25 1900\\ni^ |;i\\nCopyrighted 1900\\nBy David Williams CoMPA rY\\ni\\ny", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "In 1876 the firm I was employed by, finding it neces-\\nsary to galvanize the goods they were manufacturing,\\nplaced the matter in my hands. Having little or no\\nknowledge of the process, I spent considerable money in\\nbuying technical books that purported to treat on the\\nsubject, but found that what little they had to say was of\\nno practical value whatever. I think the same condi-\\ntions prevail now. Since 1889 I have made the installa-\\ntion of galvanizing and tinning plants a business and have\\nbuilt nearly sixty. The increased demand for galvanized\\nand tinned goods within the last ten years has brought\\nme many requests from people for information regard-\\ning the two processes, and some four years ago I gave a\\nbrief description of the process of galvanizing in The\\nIron Ace and The Metal Worker. At the request of\\nthe publishers I have undertaken to describe the different\\nmethods of coating with zinc and tin by immersion.\\nHaving no previous work on the subject as a guide and\\nbeing w^hoUy unused to writing, I realize that my work\\nlacks the finish of most technical books. I think, however,\\nthat my treatment of the several subjects, coupled with the\\nillustrations given, will enable one to make a successfui\\nstart in any of the processes.\\nW. T. Flanders.\\nNashua. N. He", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nPage,\\nGalvanizing j\\nLocating a Plant and Selecting a Kettle 8\\nThe Galvanizing Room 8\\nTanks for Acids and Other Purposes lo\\nTools for Galvanizing 1 1\\nFilling and Firing a New Kettle 13,\\nThe Use of a Pyrometer 13\\nMaterials Used in Galvanizing 14\\nBuilding and Setting Kettles 15\\nRemoving vScale with Sulphuric Acid 23\\nCleaning Sandy Castings with Sulphuric Acid 24\\nPreparing the Work for Dipping in the Zincing\\nBath 25\\nDrying the Work 25\\nThe Heat of Zinc 27\\nDipping the Work in the Molten Metal 29\\nThe Formation of Dross in the Kettle 36\\nRunning Over, or Sweating, Zinc Dross 39\\nTinning Malleable Iron, Wrought Iron and Steel 43\\nPreparing the Work 44\\nTools and Kettles 45\\nA Tinning Plant 46\\nPlan of Tinning Plant 48\\nRemoving Scale and Rust with Sulphuric Acid 50", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "Page.\\nCleaning Sandy Castings by Sulphuric Acid 52\\nCleaning Sandy Castings with Hydrofluoric Acid 52\\nRemoving Paint or Grease 53\\nTinning with a Single Kettle of Tin 54\\nTinning with Two or More Kettles of Tin 55\\nPassing the Work Through the Tinning Kettles. 56\\nTinning Wire in Coils 5^\\nTinning Steel Spoons and Similar Articles 59\\nRetinning 60\\nSetting Retinning Kettles 64\\nTinning Common Gray Iron 66\\nDescription of Tinning Plant 67\\nGeneral Considerations 69\\nTumbling Barrel 70\\nFreeing Gray Iron Castings from Sand by Hydro-\\nfluoric Acid 74\\nCleaning Sandy Castings with Sulphuric Acid. 77\\nThe Use of a Hot Alkali Bath in Certain Cases 78\\nPreparing the Castings in the Gas Barrel 78\\nCoating the Castings with Tin 83", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "GALVANiZiNG.\\nThe coating of articles of iron and steel with zinc, or^\\nas the process is generally known, galvanizing them,\\nas a means of retarding oxidation and for other reasons,\\nhas become a vast industry, in which a large number of\\nmen find employment.\\nIt is not our purpose to attempt a description of the\\nmethods emplo} ed by the great manufacturers of gal-\\nvanized sheets and wire, but to confine our efforts to the\\nrequirements of those who wish to engage in the business\\nin a small way and to enable those whose location would\\notherwise compel them to ship goods long distances to\\nerect and operate a plant of their own.\\nIt may not be out of place to say that it has been the\\npractice of some engaged in the business to make as\\nmuch of a mystery of it as possible. One fallacy given\\nout and generally credited is that a galvanizing kettle\\nmust not be allowed to cool off. This, perhaps, has de-\\nterred a greater number from attempting their own work\\nthan anything else. While it is true that it is not prac-\\nticable to allow a kettle holding several tons of metal to\\ncool off every few days, there is no reason why a kettle\\ncontaining a few hundred pounds of metal cannot be al-\\nlowed to cool when it is not required for use.\\nWhile it is our purpose to treat the subject in a way\\nthat will give a general idea of the whole business, our\\nefforts will be mostly confined to explaining the methods\\nT", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "8 GALVAXIZIXG AND TIXXIXG.\\nto be employed in galvanizing castings of gray and mal-\\nleable iron, small articles of wrought iron and steel and\\nsheet metal goods.\\nLOCATIXG A PLAXT AXD SELECTING A KETTLE.\\nTo those contemplating the installation of a galvaniz-\\ning plant the first question that naturally comes up is,\\nwhere can it best be located? In settling this question it\\nshould be kept in mind that the fumes of the chemicals\\nused in the business are destructive to tools and machin-\\nery. For this reason the galvanizing plant should be in a\\nbuilding by itself.\\nThe next question is, what size kettle should be used\\nand what is the best material to make it of On account\\nof the difficulty in controlling the heat of a small body of\\nmetal, we would not advise the use of a kettle, for any\\npurpose, less than 3 feet in length, 20 inches in depth and\\n18 inches in width. The material for the kettle should be\\nrefined iron or best fire box steel, and should not be less\\nthan Yz inch thick.\\nTHE GALVAXIZIXG ROOM.\\nIn providing a room or a building in which to locate\\nthe plant, provision should be made to obtain good ven-\\ntilation. It should be high posted and have a good ventila-\\ntor in the roof, and if the character of the work to be\\ndone will admit, a hood may be built over the kettle, com-\\ning low enough to catch all the smoke possible, while not\\ninterfering with the movements of the operator. When\\nthe work is castings or small articles, there is no objection\\nto having the hood come to within 6 feet of the floor, and\\nit should be at least 2 feet larger than the brick work sur-\\nrounding the kettle.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "GALVAXIZIXG.\\nConsiderable water is used in the process, and provi-\\nsion should be made to secure proper drainage. A good\\nFig. 1.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Floor Plan of Galvanizing Room.\\nplan is to put in a cement floor, which can be laid so as to\\nprovide gutters on each side of the room. If the work to", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "lO GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nbe handled is castings it is not absolutely necessary to\\nuse steam, but if the work is of a nature that requires the\\nremoval of scale, steam should be brought into the room.\\nA floor space 25 x 50 feet will accommodate such an\\noutfit as we illustrate by Fig. i. A much less floor space\\ncan be made to accommodate a very small plant. Fig. i is\\nthe ground plan of a galvanizing plant, in which A is a\\ntank for containing a solution of sulphuric acid and water\\nfor removing scale and rust. B is a water tank for stor-\\ning work that has been cleaned. C is a platform where\\ncastings are placed to free them from sand. D is a tank\\nused to contain the solution for removing the sand from\\nthe castings after they have been placed on the platform.\\nE is a tank for muriatic acid. F is the plate for drying\\nthe work before immersing it in the molten metal. G is\\nthe kettle containing the metal and H is the tank used for\\ncooling the work after it is coated with the zinc. I I in-\\ndicate the loose planks covering the ash pits, shown in\\nFig. 3 as M INI. K is an underground flue connecting the\\ndrying plate F with a chimney or stack. L, and M is a pit\\nto give access to the ash pit under the plate F.\\nTANKS FOR ACIDS AND OTHER PURPOSES.\\nThe illustration, Fig. i, shows wooden tanks, to be\\nbuilt as shown in Fig. 12. When this style of tank is em-\\nployed the bolts, in those designed for acid, should be of\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2copper. Pine or cypress makes good material for tanks.\\nIt is by no means necessary to build expensive tanks if\\nthe work to be done is small articles. If oil barrels are\\nsawed in half and thoroughly cleaned they answer every\\npurpose, provided, of course, that the work is of a size\\nthat half barrels will accommodate.\\nIt used to be considered necessarv to line acid tanks", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\nII\\nwith lead. The experience of the writer is that it is\\nmoney thrown away. The practice has been almost en-\\ntirely abandoned.\\nTOOLS FOR GALVANIZING.\\nThe tools employed in galvanizing usually consist of\\ntongs of various shapes and sizes, baskets of sheet iron or\\nheavy wire cloth, and wires bent in various shapes. The\\nnecessary shape of the tongs will be suggested by the\\nFig. S. Top View of Large Galvanizing Kettle.\\nshape of the article to be handled. In Fig. 13 we illus-\\ntrate the shape of baskets and wires most generally in\\nuse. B is a sheet iron basket having a handle about 3^\\nfeet long. 1 he basket should be about 8 inches in diam-\\neter at the top and 7 inches at the bottom, with a depth of\\n9 inches. Both the bottom and body should be well per-\\nforated to allow the metal to pass out. This style of\\nbasket is well adapted to galvanizing nails and other small\\narticles, and the holes should be of a size that will not ad-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "12\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nmit of the articles being handled falling through. A is\\na basket made of heavy wire cloth, the body being about\\n8 inches wide, lo inches long and 6 inches deep. This\\nbasket is adapted to large work that cannot be strung on\\nwires and is too small to be handled singly with tongs.\\nM\\nM\\ni\\\\^^^////}\\nc c\\nFig. S.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Section of Fig. 2 at A\\\\ A\\\\\\nFig. 4.\u00e2\u0080\u0094Side Elevation of Large Galvanizing Kettle\\nE and G are wires for handling small work in the molten\\nmetal. F is a scoop for removing the dross from the bot-\\ntom of the kettle. D and H are skimmers, and E is a hook\\nto suspend in the molten metal articles that are strung on\\nwires. The use of all will be explained in their turn", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "GALVAXI.ZIXG, 13\\nMost of these tools are adapted to use in tinning as well\\nas galvanizing.\\nFILLING AND FIRING A NEW KETTLE.\\nIn filling a kettle for the first time with the pigs of\\nzinc, or, as it is termed in the trade, spelter, place the\\nmetal in a way that it will lie as closely as possible to the\\nsides of the kettle, and also arrange it so that as the\\noutside slabs of metal melt those next to them will be\\nforced against the sides of the kettle. Unless this is done\\nthe kettle is apt to be injured by the heat. Do not allow\\nthe fires to burn too freely in melting a kettle of zinc or\\nin firing up a kettle that is full of cold metal. In melting\\na kettle of metal for the first time keep the fires about even\\nwith the molten metal in the kettle, allowing them to rise\\nin about the same proportion as the metal melts. Do not\\nuse the top drafts until the molten metal is about even\\nwith them.\\nTHE USE OF A PYROMETER.\\nA good pyrometer placed in the kettle will be found\\nof great value in keeping the bath at a uniform temper-\\nature. Unless, however, the stem of the pyrometer is\\nprotected from the action of the metal it will soon be de-\\nstroyed. The writer has devised a means by which the\\nstem of the pyrometer is kept from contact with the\\nmolten zinc and at the same time gives the same result as\\nthough the molten zinc w^as in direct contact with the\\npyrometer stem.\\nThe arrangement consists of a piece of 2-inch pipe\\nabout 20 inches long, with one end closed tight. The top\\nof the pipe is provided with a bushing, with a hole a little\\nlarger than the stem of the pyrometer. A second bushing\\nshould also be placed in the pipe about 3 inches from the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "14\\nGALYANIZINr. AND TTMMTMn\\nbottom. These bushings serve to keep the pyrometer in\\nan upright position. The casing surrounding the stem of\\nthe pyrometer is filled with lead, so that when the arrange-\\nment is placed in the kettle there is a direct metal connec-\\ntion with the stem of the pyrometer. Fig. 14 shows a py-\\nrometer in position in the kettle, while Fig. 15 shows the\\nprotector in detail.\\nMATERIALS USED IN GALVANIZING.\\nThe principal materials used in galvanizing are zinc.\\nFig. 5 Section at Grate Line of Large Oalvamzing Kettle\\nsal ammoniac, muriatic, sulphuric and hydrofluoric acids\\nand gas coke. We cannot with fairness express a prefer-\\nence for any brand of spelter, and will only say, use spel-\\nter smelted by a reliable firm, keeping in mind that much of\\nthe so-called spelter is recovered from zinc dross by par-\\nties who do not have the facilities for doing the \\\\vork\\nproperly. The best sal ammoniac to use is the gray\\ngranulated, although the white granulated answers\\nevery purpose.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n15\\nBUILDING AND SETTING KETTLES.\\nIn deciding what size kettle to put in you must be\\nguided by the nature of the work to be done. If it is\\nsmall articles that are to be handled, and the amount such\\nO\\nO)\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0\\\\2y\\nc\\nE\\nK\\nEt-\\nLt,;;,\\nUj\\nI^\\nH\\nFig. 6.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Casting Details of Large Galvanizing Kettle.\\nas will only require the plant to be operated at intervals,\\na kettle 3 feet long, 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep\\nwill answer the purpose. A kettle more than 20 inches\\ndeep makes it necessary to provide ash pits at the sides,\\nas shown in Fig. 3 and designated M M.\\nn^", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "i6\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nIn Figs. 7, 8 and 9 we show method of setting a small\\nkettle that is not designed to be operated continually. The\\ngrates C C in Fig. 9 are bars of iron that may be with-\\ndrawn when it is desired to let the fire out and replaced\\nwhen required for use.\\nFigs. 2, 3, 4 and 5 show manner of setting kettles 5 feet\\nlong and upward, and Fig. 6 gives the casting details.\\nFig. 10 gives shape and construction of kettle. The rivet-\\nA\\nI i\\nA\\n-H a\\n1 1\\n1 1\\n1 1\\n1\\n1 1\\nFig. 7. Top Plan of Small Galvanizing Kettle.\\ning in the heads may be spaced 2J/2 inches, while the\\nrivets securing the stiffening bars to the sides may be\\nspaced 4 inches. For kettles from 4 to 6 feet in length\\nmaterial inch thick will answer for the body and\\ninch for the heads. Above 6 feet material at least i inch\\nthick should be used.\\nFig. 10 shows a kettle in which the body is formed of\\none piece, and with the rivets where the fire will not affect\\nthem. A kettle for general use built after this illustration", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n17\\nis our preference for many reasons, but it does not follow\\nthat the work could not be done in a kettle of any shape.\\nA, Fig. 6, are the coping plates, the position of which\\nis shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4. These plates, when held in\\nFig. 8.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Section of Fig. 7 at A A,\\nFig. 9. Section of Small Galvanizing Kettle, Showing Method\\nof Setting Grates.\\nplace by the bolts C, serve to preyent the sides of the\\nkettle from springing outward when the iron blocks D D\\nare in place, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. Coping plates\\nfor kettles from 4 to 6 feet long should be 2y^ inches", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "i8\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nthick and lo inches wide. The fire spaces E E in Figs. 2\\nand 3 should not be more than 7 inches wide and the same\\nlength as the inside of the kettle.\\nD in Fig. 6 are the blocks designated in Figs. 2 and 3\\nas D. F in Fig. 6 are the iron plates i inch thick. Their\\npositions are designated in Figs. 2 and 3 as F. G in Fig.\\n6 is a section of grate, the position of which is designated\\nin Figs. 3 and 5 as G G. The openings of this grate\\nshould be about i inch wide and the grates should be wide\\nFig. 10. End and Side Elevations and Top View of Large\\nGalvanizing Kettle.\\nenough to span the fire spaces E E in Figs. 2 and 3 and\\nrest on plates H H and the pier I, on which the kettle B\\nrests, as shown in Fig. 3. The plate H in Fig. 6 may also\\nbe used to cover the fire spaces E E, Figs. 2 and 3. The\\nplates should be about 3^ inch thick and 12 inches wide;\\ntheir length is determined by the length of the kettle. K\\nin Fig. 6 is the casing for the upper draft holes indicated\\nas K K in Figs. 3 and 4. The casing should be about 10\\ninches long, with the opening about 4x4 inches. It\\nshould be arranged to close with a slide, as shown in Fig.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n19\\n4. L in Fig. 6 shows the casings for the lower set of\\ndrafts, the openings in which should be 8 x 12 inches.\\nTheir position in the brick work is designated in Figs. 3,\\n4 and 5 as L. Fig. 2 is a top plan of the brick work. Fig.\\n3 is a vertical section at A A and Fig. 4 is a side ele-\\nvation.\\nThe ash pits M M, in Fig. 3, should be about 2 feet\\nwide. The pits are covered with loose planks, so that\\naccess to the lower drafts may be had for the purpose of\\n000\\nFig. 11. Casting Details of Small Galvanizing Kettle.\\nopening or closing them, and also for the purpose of re-\\nmoving the ashes from the spaces N N under the grates\\nG G, Fig. 3.\\nFig. 5 is a horizontal section of the brick work at the\\ngrate line and shows the grates G G in position, and also\\nthe manner of laying the bricks between the draft casings\\nL L. I indicates the pier on which the kettle rests. It\\nwill be seen that the brick work between the lower draft\\ncasings L L is built in a way to allow all the access possi-\\nble to the grates G G from the ash pits M M. The plates", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "20\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nH H are used to test the outer edge of the grates G G on,\\nand also to support the brick waUs at each side of the\\nkettle. The walls on each side of the kettle should have\\na lining of fire brick commencing at the grate and ex-\\ntending upward to the coping plates A A, Fig. 3.\\nFigs. 7, 8 and 9 show manner of setting a kettle that\\nis not deep enough to require ash pits at the sides. For\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0i i\\nJ\\nFig. 13.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Details of Acid Tank.\\ncasings for the upper and lower drafts make the patterns\\nas shown in Fig. 6 and which are designated K and L.\\nFig. 7 is a top plan of the brick w^ork surrounding the ket-\\ntle. Fig. 8 is a vertical section of Fig. 7 at A A and\\nFig. 9 is a horizontal section at B B\\nFig. 6 shows all the casting details necessary to set a\\nkettle in the manner shown in Figs. 2, 3, 4 and 5. The\\nbolt C that sets in the brick work vertically is provided\\nat one end with a foundation washer, B, which is held in\\nplace by the key E, The positions of the other castings", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n21\\nin this figure are all shown by corresponding letters in\\nFigs. 2, 3, 4 and 5.\\nFig. II gives the casting details necessary to set a ket-\\ntle after the plan shown by Figs. 7, 8 and 9. A is a plate\\nFig. 13 Galvanizing Tools.\\nto cover the top of the brick work surrounding the kettle,\\nand its position is designated in Fig. 7 as A. B is a cast-\\ning used in connection with bolts passing through the ends\\nto bind the brick work together. Its position is desig-\\nnated in Fig. 8 as B. C is the grate, the position of which\\nis shown in Fig. 9 at C, and D, Fig. 11, are the castings", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "22\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nfor supporting each end of the grates C, the position of\\nwhich is designated in Figs. 8 and 9 by D.\\nA kettle for galvanizing pipe should be 23 feet long,\\n3 feet deep and 2 feet wide. One for sheet iron ware, if\\nit is intended to include washtubs and garbage cans,\\nshould be 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 4 feet deep. Coal\\nhods can be galvanized in a kettle of the size shown in\\nFig. 14. Perspective of Oalvanizing Kettle, Showing\\nPosition of Pyrometer.\\nFig. 2 viz., 6 feet long, 3 feet deep and 18 inches wide.\\nA kettle designed especially for galvanizing wire should\\nbe II feet long, 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. Wire cloth\\nand poultry netting is best run in a kettle 6 feet long, 4\\nfeet wide and 2 feet deep.\\nIn bricking in a kettle use care to protect all the calked\\njoints from the fire and do not make the fire spaces too\\nwide. If too much space is left for fire the heat of the\\nmetal cannot be kept under control.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n23\\nREMOVING SCALE WITH SULPHURIC ACID.\\nNearly all articles made of wrought iron or steel or of\\nsheet metal are covered with more or less heavy scale,\\nwhich must be completely removed before the zinc will\\nFig. 15. Pyrometer Protector in Detail\\nadhere. To accomplish its removal make a pickle of\\nsulphuric acid and water, i part acid to 20 of water, and\\nbring the solution to a temperature of about 150 de-\\ngrees F.\\nThe length of time required to accomplish the work", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "24 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nvaries with the thickness of the scale. In many cases it\\nis necessary to remove part of it with some sharp pointed\\ntool. When the material has been burned in welding,\\nand where the scale has been rolled deeply into the stock,\\nit is necessary to use a tool to loosen the scale. Stock\\nhaving an uneven coating of scale should be cleaned in a\\nw^eaker solution than that having an even coating or than\\nthat having a light scale. The reason is that that part\\nof the stock which is first made clean will be overpickled\\nbefore the parts having the heavier scale are clean.\\nWhen the work seems perfectly clean and free from\\nscale or rust it should be put into a tank containing water\\nenough to cover it completely. A, in \u00c2\u00a5ig. i, designates\\nthe tank to be used for treating the material to remove\\nthe scale, and B in the same illustration denotes the stor-\\nage tank.\\nCLEANING SANDY CASTINGS WITH SULPHURIC ACID.\\nCastings that are sandy may be cleaned by pouring\\nover them a solution of sulphuric acid and water, i part\\nacid to 6 of water. Place the castings on the platform\\nC in Fig. I and wet them with the solution which is con-\\ntained in tank D, Fig. i. Continue this operation until\\nthe sand will wash ott by the application of water. The\\ncastings should be wet every hour or so, and they should\\nbe cleaned in about 12 hours.\\nCast iron that has been allowed to remain in the pickle\\ntoo long will be covered with a gummy or greasy sub-\\nstance, and will not properly take the coating of zinc un-\\nless it is left in the metal a long time, and even then it will\\nnot be nicely coated, but will be rough and covered with\\nthick patches of metal. It will not have the gloss that a\\nproperly prepared casting will have. We refer to this", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING. 2^\\nmethod of cleaning sandy castings in the chapter on tin-\\nning, and it will be well to read what is said there in this\\nconnection, as the rules there given apply to galvanizing,\\nas well as what is said regarding dry tumbling as an aid\\nin cleaning work for tinning.\\nPREPARING TIIK WORK FOR DIPPING IN THE ZINCING\\nBATH.\\nTo enable the zinc to take to the work quickly and\\nfirmly a solution of muriatic acid and water is used. This\\nnot only serves as a flux, but it removes any rust that has\\nformed on the work in the operation of inspecting and\\nremoving the scale or sand that the sulphuric acid pickle\\nfailed to remove. If the work has been thoroughly\\ncleaned by dry tumbling the use of sulphuric acid is not\\nnecessary. If no rust has formed on the work all that is\\nnecessary is to immerse it for two or three minutes in this\\nmuriatic solution. If rust is present it must be immersed\\nlong enough to remove it.\\nSome galvanizers use full strength acid for this pre-\\nparatory dip, but we prefer to dilute the acid about one-\\nhalf and to add i pound of sal ammoniac to a gallon of the\\nmixture. Tank E, Fig. i, is for containing this mixture.\\nDRYING THE WORK.\\nFrom tank C, Fig. i, or, in other words, from the\\nmuriatic acid, the work is taken to the place provided for\\ndrying it. The position of this drying arrangement is\\ndesignated F in Fig. i. This drying arrangement may\\nbe the plates covering the fires that heat the kettle. If\\nthe work to be handled only amounts to a few hundred\\npounds per day it can be dried in this way. If, however,\\nthe amount of work necessitates keeping the kettle in con-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "26\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nstant Operation, a drying arrangement such as shown ia\\nFigs. i6, 17 and 18 should be provided. Sheets and pipe\\nshould be dried in an oven.\\nFig. 16. Perspective View of Drier.\\nFig. 17 .\u00e2\u0080\u0094Horizontal Section of Fig. 16 at Orate Line,\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2mzmzs2^zs:2Z2.\\nFig. 18.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Vertical Section of Fig, 16.\\nThe location of this drying arrangement is a mere\\nmatter of choice. In Fig. i we show it located at one\\nend of the kettle. The work should be perfectly dry, but\\nit should not be allowed to get hot enough to burn the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING 21\\nacid. When properly dried the muriatic acid should\\nshow on the surface of the work in the form of a white\\npowder. Work that has been prepared for dipping and\\ndried should not be allowed to get cold, and if more has\\nbeen prepared for dipping than can be finished it should\\nnot be allowed to remain on the drier over night, but re-\\nturned to the water tank. It should, of course, be re-\\ndipped in the muriatic solution and dried again before\\nputting it into the zincmg kettle.\\nFigs. i6, 17 and i8 show a good arrangement for\\ndrying the work. Fig. i6 is a perspective view of the\\ncompleted work, Fig. 17 is a horizontal section of Fig. 16-\\nat grate, and Fig. 18 is a vertical section.\\nTHE HEAT OF THE ZINC.\\nThis part of the business is not only the most difficult\\nto describe, but it is the most difficult to learn, for the\\nreason that different kinds of work require that differ-\\nent temperatures be maintained. A kettle of zinc at the\\nproper heat for wire or wire cloth would be much too hot\\nfor galvanizing castings of either gray or malleable iron,\\nwhile with the zinc at the proper heat for large work it\\nwould be impossible to coat small work properly, even if\\nthe material was the same. Large pieces require that a\\nlow heat be maintained on the zincing bath. Small work\\nthat is strung on wires for dipping requires a higher heat\\nof the zincmg bath than heavy pieces. Work that is gal-\\nvanized in baskets requires a higher heat of the zincing\\nbath than work that is strung on wires and drawn from\\nthe coating bath without the aid of a flux on the surface\\nof the molten metal, as hereafter described.\\nWe shall give the degrees of heat that a pyrometer\\nshould indicate when different kinds of work are being", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "28 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\ndone, basing the rules given on the supposition that when\\nthe metal is barely melted that is, at a temperature that\\nwould just keep it in a liquid state, the pyrometer indicates\\n750 degrees of heat. We shall also give the best rules\\npossible for determining the proper temperature by the\\nlooks of the metal and by other signs.\\nLarge gray iron castings require that the metal be at\\nthe lowest temperature possible and have it liquid. At\\nabout this temperature it will be silver white in color, will\\nburn sal ammoniac slowly when thrown on its surface, and\\nwhen a skimmer is passed over its surface the oxide will\\nbe slow in appearing. In this condition the pyrometer\\nshould indicate about 775 degrees of heat. This tem-\\nperature is also suitable for galvanizing very thin castings\\nthat it is designed to spangle or to have a crystallized\\nappearance for example, sinks and like work.\\nFor small castings that are to be drawn through the\\nmetal without using a flux the pyrometer should indicate\\nabout 840 degrees. At this temperature the metal should\\nhave a slightly bluish cast, burn sal ammoniac moderately\\nquick and show the oxide in a few seconds after the\\nskimmer has been passed over its surface. This tem-\\nperature is about right for galvanizing wrought iron pipe\\nthe cheaper grades of sheet iron or goods made from it,\\nsuch as coal hods, ash cans and chamber pails. Heavy\\nmalleable iron castings will also coat nicely at this heat.\\nFor small work, such as nails and. in fact, almost any\\nwork that is done in baskets or strung on wires and drawn\\nthrough a flux, the pyrometer should indicate from 870\\nto 890 degrees of heat. The metal should burn sal\\nammoniac quickly and oxidize quickly. It will be quite\\nblue in color. This temperature is about right for sheet\\nsteel and articles made from it, as well as steel pipe.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING. 29-\\nDIPPING THE WORK IN THE MOLTEN METAL.\\nWe will describe the manner of handling several dif-\\nferent articles as a general guide for handling all kinds\\nof work. Considerable skill is required to bring a piece\\nof work out of the metal and cool it so that the surface\\nwill be smooth, free from blisters and with no lumps of\\nsurplus metal attached.\\nBefore dipping the work, cover the surface of a part\\nof the molten zinc with a flux of sal ammoniac to keep the\\noxidized metal from adhering to it. To prepare this flux\\nsprinkle a few handfuls of sal ammoniac on the surface of\\nthe molten metal, and as soon as it is melted add a few\\ndrops of glycerine. This will cause the flux to thicken\\nup and will prevent it. in a measure, from covering the\\nentire surface of the metal. The glycerine also causes\\nthe flux to remain stationary, so that when the operator is\\nready to draw the article from the bath the flux will not\\ncover the space he has cleared with his skimmer for that\\npurpose. The tool designated D in Fig. 13 is used for\\nthe purpose of skimming the surface of the metal before\\ndrawing the v\\\\-ork from the bath.\\nThis flux not only prevents the zinc from oxidizing,\\nbut it assists the metal to take quickly and evenly to the\\nwork. Keep the flux fresh by adding more sal ammoniac\\nfrom time to time.\\nWe will suppose the article to be dipped is a cast iron\\ns-ink or some similar casting that is, a thin casting.\\nHave the metal at the temperature first described under\\nthe heading The Heat of the Zinc. After satisfying\\nhimself that the casting is perfectly dry and hot enough to\\nhave expelled all moisture from it the operator catches the\\narticle with a pair of tongs and plunges it as quickly as\\npossible, and not cause the metal to spatter, into the mol-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "3\u00c2\u00a9 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nten zinc. He must hold the article beneath the zinc until\\nit is as hot as the zinc itself. After the article has been in\\nthe bath a few minutes it should be rinsed around in the\\nmetal in such a way that the flux floating on the surface\\nof the molten zinc will come in contact with all parts of it.\\nWhen the article is thoroughly coated clear a space on the\\nsurface of the molten zinc with the skimmer, and after\\ndusting on a very little dry powdered sal ammoniac draw\\nthe article from the metal.\\nIn performing this operation catch the article with\\nthe tongs in such a way that the part they grasp will be\\nthe last to leave the metal. Do not lift the article clear\\ncf the metal with the tongs you use in the metal, but pro-\\nvide a second pair to handle the article with until it is\\ncooled. In drawing the article raise it slowly with the\\ntongs held in the position described, and as soon as it is\\npartly clear of the metal grasp it with the tongs provided\\nfor that purpose, and complete its removal. Hold the\\narticle in such a position as will admit of the metal flowing\\nto one point, and just as the drop is about to harden re-\\nmove it with a stiff brush or an old file. Expose the ar-\\nticle to the air until crystals appear, and then brush it\\nvi^ith a brush wet in clear water. Do not dip the article\\nin water, especially if it is a sink or a very thin casting, as\\nthat would be quite likely to break it. In any event the\\ncoating would not be as bright as it would be if left to cool\\ngradually after brushing with the wet brush. Thick\\nheavy castings may be dipped in water at once on remov-\\ning them from the molten metal.\\nCoal hods and similar goods of sheet steel or iron only\\nrequire to be left in the bath a few seconds. The flux\\nthrough which they pass should be confined at one end of\\nthe kettle by a piece of sheet iron long enough to go across", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING. ;^l\\nthe kettle from side to side. This is called a flux guard,\\nand it should enter the metal about 2 inches, with the\\nupper edge as high or a little higher than the sides of the\\nkettle. In galvanizing sheet metal ware the flux should\\nbe made to foam up nearly to the top of the kettle by using\\nglycerine. The goods should be passed through this flux\\ninto the metal, and as soon as they are coated, which will\\nbe in a very few seconds, they must be passed under the\\nflux guard to the end of the kettle that is kept free of flux.\\nIn passing the article under the flux guard keep the open-\\ning up so that none of the flux will be carried along with\\nit. Remove the article from the metal in the way just de-\\nvScribed for sinks and similar articles, but do not sprinkle\\nthe surface of the zinc with sal ammoniac. Allow the\\nwork to cool in the air. If any particles of the sal am-\\nmoniac have adhered to the work in drawing it from the\\nmolten metal remove them with a wet brush.\\nSome articles can be galvanized very nicely by string-\\ning them on stout wires about i feet long. When this\\nmethod is employed string on a number of the pieces, and\\nthen bring both ends of the wire together and clinch them\\nsecurely. To suspend work in the metal strung this way\\nuse a hook, shaped after the form given in Fig. 13 and\\ndesignated C. Provide several of these hooks, so that a\\nbatch may always be ready when the previous one is re-\\nmoved from the kettle. A piece of ^-^-inch round iron,\\nbent in the shape of the letter S, will serve to remove the\\nstrings of castings from the hooks, and also for handling\\nthem after they are removed. The wires E and G, Fig. 13,\\nare intended for stringing small articles on for the pur-\\npose of dipping them in the molten metal.\\nIn handling small articles on these wires use a motion,\\nafter thev are drawn from the metal, calculated to free", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "32 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nthem of surplus metal and also to prevent their adhering\\nto each other when they are plunged in the water. To do\\nthis properly will require some practice.\\nIt is a good plan to warm the cooling water slightly\\nfor cooling some articles, and to have a thin film of oil on\\nthe surface. Small articles strung on wires may be drawn\\nthrough the metal after sprinkling on a small quantity of\\npowdered sal ammoniac, or may be drawn through a clear\\nthin flux of sal ammoniac, to which a few drops of glycer-\\nine have been added. If the latter plan is used, as it should\\nbe if the articles are such as are liable to rub and stick\\ntogether, the oil should not be used on the cooling water.\\nSmall work that cannot be strung on wires may be\\ngalvanized by using a basket of wire or sheet iron. We\\nhave already described these, and they are designated in\\nFig. 13 as A and B.\\nWhen these baskets are employed the flux should be\\nof a consistency that will run freely among the work. A\\nblock of iron should be placed in a position beside the\\nkettle that will permit the operator to rest the handle of\\nhis basket over the block with the basket hanging over\\nthe kettle. Using this block as a rest, the operator should\\nshake the basket sharply, and for several seconds, to free\\nthe work of surplus metal, and when it is accomplished\\nhe will shake them into the water to cool them, after which\\ndry them off by dipping them in boiling water and then\\nthrowing them into sawdust. Nails or tacks may be\\nshaken out of the basket onto an iron plate, placed at an\\nangle, over a tub of water. The plate should be inclined\\nsufficient to allow the work to slide into the water readily.\\nSheet iron, wire, wire cloth and poultry netting are\\nmostly passed through the zincing bath mechanically, and\\nas the means employed are too expensive and complicated", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\nto illustrate or describe we shall not attempt it. Sheet\\niron may be, and once was. galvanized by parting the ket-\\ntle lengthwise with a tlux guard. The side where the\\nprepared sheet enters the bath is covered with a sal am-\\nmoniac flux, and the opposite side, where it leaves the bath,\\nis covered with coke dust to the depth of about i inch.\\nA light single block and fall is used to assist in drawing\\nthe sheet from the kettle, and every kettle in which work\\nof large size is galvanized should be so provided.\\nWire cloth, wire and poultry netting may be galva-\\nnized by running it through the kettle by means of a reel.\\nIn galvanizing wire cloth and poultry netting the kettle\\nshould be parted by a fiux guard, as previouslv described\\nand the coke dust piled up to a depth of several inches and\\nkept sprmkled with water by using an ordinary watering\\npot. 1 he flux should be present where the work enters\\nthe metal.\\nWire requires no flux at the point where the work\\nenters or on any other part of the kettle. Sand or coke\\ndust or dies of asbestos may be used to wipe off the sur-\\nplus metal. If the kettle for wire is the usual length of\\n10 teet the wire may be drawn through the metal at a\\nspeed of about 75 feet per minute. If it is being done in\\na short kettle the speed must be slow enough to allow the\\nwork to be perfectly coated.\\nIn Fig. 19 we give the position of the different pieces\\nof apparatus required to do the work in a small way\\nLarge plants equipped to do this work exclusivelv are\\nfitted with reels driven by power, and several strands are\\nrun through simultaneously. In Fig. 19 A is the position\\nof the reel holding the black wire, B is the tank holding\\nthe muriatic acid, C is the kettle, D a tank containing\\nwater and E the position of the reel for drawing the wire", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2I\\nI\\nCO\\nI\\no", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n35\\nFig. SO.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Perspective of Dross Kettle.\\nFig. 21.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Top Plan of Dross Kettle.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "36\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nTHE FORMATION OF DROSS IN THE KETTLE.\\nThe waste caused by the formation of dross is quite\\nlarge, even with an experienced man in charge of the ket-\\nFig. ^2\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Vertical Section of Fig, 21 at A. A,\\nFig. S3.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Horizontal Section of Fig. 22 at Grate Line.\\ntie. The amount of dross made is increased by faihire in\\nkeeping the metal at a temperature that will not injure it,\\nby allowing the work to be lost in the kettle and through", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n37\\nt^^^^^^^^^^^\\n-tAVVXV^V^^,^^^\\nFig. ^4 Details of Dross Kettle.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "38 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nimmersing in the kettle work that has not been properly\\nprepared.\\nAs the dross forms it settles at the bottom of the kettle,\\nand when the accumulation is such that it interferes with\\nthe work it must be removed. As the dross settles it be-\\ncomes hard, and is easily removed by the proper appliance\\nfor that purpose. The tooj for removing the dross is\\ncalled a dross scoop. In Fig. 13 we show the shape\\nof this tool, designated F, where a round bottom kettle is\\nin use. The handle of the scoop should be about twice\\nthe length of the kettle, unless the kettle is of a size that\\nrequires the use of tackle in drossing it. The scoop\\nshould be well perforated to allow the clear metal to flow\\nback into the kettle. In removing the dross use care not\\nto stir or rile more than possible when forcing the dross\\nscoop into the hardened mass. Force the scoop into the\\ndross gently, and when you are satisfied that the scoop\\nis full, raise it out of the metal by resting the handle of\\nthe scoop on the end of the kettle to get a leverage. Let\\nthe scoop remain over the kettle until all the clear metal\\nthat will has dripped back into it. If the handle of the\\nscoop is rapped with a hammer or piece of iron it will\\ncause more of the clear metal to separate from the dross\\nthan would be the case if it was not done. As soon as\\nthe clear metal has ceased to drip dump the dross into cast\\niron pans. These pans should be about 2 inches deep, 15\\ninches long and 9 inches wide.\\nDross hardens very rapidly when exposed to the air,\\nand no more time than is necessary to allow all the metal\\npossible to drip back into the kettle should be consumed\\nin getting it into the dross pans.\\nIf there is a large amount of dross in the kettle and it\\nis desired to allow the fi-res to go completely out it should", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "GALVANIZING.\\n39\\nbe removed. If the kettle is allowed to cool with a large\\namount of dross lying in the bottom of it the result will\\nmost likely be a burst kettle. Before commencing to\\ndross the kettle that is, remove the dross skim all the\\nflux from the surface of the metal with a perforated\\nskimmer. This tool is shown in Fig. 13, and is desig-\\nnated H.\\nRUNNING OVER OR SWEATING ZINC DROSS.\\nThe writer is often asked if it pays the galvanizer to\\ntry and recover the good metal from the dross, and how\\nbest to accomplish it. ithout entering into a discussion\\nregarding the desirability of attempting its recovery, from\\na financial point of view, we will say that it is our prac-\\ntice to sweat our dross.\\nIn Fig. 20 we give a perspective view of the kettle\\nand brick work for running over dross. Fig. 21 is a top\\nview, Fig. 22 is a vertical section at A A and Fig. 23 is\\na horizontal section at the grates. The kettle and casting\\ndetails for bricking in are shown in Fig. 24. The ar-\\nrangement is so simple that we do not think it necessary\\nto describe it in detail.\\nThe kettle should be made of cast iron, with the bot-\\ntom about I inch thick. A kettle 30 inches in diameter\\nand 20 inches deep answers the purpose very well.\\nTo separate the good metal from the dross first melt\\nup about 6 or 8 inches of lead in the bottom of the kettle\\nand then put in the dross. Bring the dross to a temper-\\nature that will cause it to have rather a dark blue color\\nor where the pyrometer will register about 1050 degrees.\\nWhen this is accomplished stir the mass with a long\\nhandled ladle for about one-half hour, and then allow it to\\nsettle. When the mass has settled the lead will be at the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "40 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nbottom, the dross will lie on the lead and the clear metal\\nwill be at the top, where it can be bailed out into pans.\\nThe stirring may be repeated once or twice after each\\nbailing- operation. After all the clear metal has been ex-\\ntracted that can be remove the dross and put it into pans.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "TINNING IRON AND STEEL\\n41", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "TINNING MALLEABLE IRON,\\nWROUGHT IRON AND STEEL\\nSimply to give articles of malleable and wrought iron\\na coating of tin is a comparatively easy process to master,\\nbut tinning on certain articles of hardware has reached a\\nhigh state of perfection, and to tin saddlery hardware and\\nthe cheaper grades of table cutlery requires considerable\\nskill. The methods employed to do the work vary greatly\\nin different establishments, and the degree of perfection\\nattained is equally at variance. Work that is tinned in an\\nindifferent and slovenly manner is not necessarily done\\ncheaply, as the material wasted on an article roughly and\\nimperfectly coated is of more value than the slight saving\\nin labor cost obtained by rushing the work through without\\nproper attention to obtaining a light and even coating.\\nThe high price of the metal used to tin articles makes\\nthe cost of the material much more than the labor cost. A\\nloss of TO per cent, of the material by careless handling\\nwould represent a much larger proportion of the entire\\ncost of the work than would an increase of the same per\\ncent, added to the labor cost. Painstaking in bringing\\nout the finished article free from surplus tin not only\\nadds greatly to the commercial appearance of the goods,\\nbut materially decreases the cost of the work. This eco-\\nnomical result is reached by careful attention to the heat\\nof the tinning bath and to the skillful handling of the\\narticles after their removal from the tinning pot and be-\\n43", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "44 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nfore they are cooled. If the tin is not hot enough the\\narticles will be heavily coated, and it will cool on the work\\nl3iinchy and wavy. A degree of heat above a certain\\nlimit also causes the work to have a rough and uneven\\nappearance, injures the color and destroys the luster.\\nThe use of a good pyrometer in a tinning bath is a great\\nhelp to the operator in maintaining a uniform heat of the\\ntin.\\nPREPARING THE WORK.\\nOrdinarily the common grades of tinned articles are\\nmade ready for tinning by simply removing the sand, scale\\nor rust by an application of either commercial sulphuric,\\nmuriatic or hydrofluoric acid. The finer grades of work\\nare prepared for tinning by careful and lengthy rolling\\nin gravel and water. This preparation not only effect-\\nually removes all impediments to a perfect coating, but\\ngives the articles a smooth and perfect surface on which\\nto deposit the tin, the degree of perfection obtained being\\ndetermined by the time and care expended in the rolling\\noperation.\\nA piece of wrought iron from which the scale has been\\nremoved by the application of acid will not have the\\nsmooth and perfect coating that the same would have if\\nthe removal of the scale was accomplished by irritation.\\nThe same is true of articles of malleable iron. The best\\nand most perfect results are obtained by giving the cast-\\nings a thorough tumbling in gravel and water, which\\noperation brings the surface of the castings to a state of\\nsmoothness only equaled by buffing or grinding. ]Mal-\\nleable castings on which it is desired to obtain a fine fin-\\nish should invariably be given this treatment. It is, of\\ncourse, necessary that the patterns from which castings", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 45\\nare taken that are designed to be tinned be made with a\\nview to obtaining- the smoothest surface possible as an\\nassistance to the tumbHng operation.\\nSome tinners not only roll their castings in gravel and\\nwater, but for the purpose of obtaining a still finer surface\\nthan can be obtained by this method they roll them in\\ndr}-, coarse sand, and also give them a third rolling with\\nscraps of leather, the entire operation often requiring 30\\nor 40 hours in going through the several treatments.\\nWater rolling is so conmion and so thoroughly understood\\nthat we consider it unnecessary to go into detailed instruc-\\ntions regarding the apparatus to be used or the methods\\nto be employed. There are several concerns who make\\nthe manufacture of rolling barrels for this purpose a spe-\\ncialty, and the cheapest method to adopt in equipping a\\ntinning plant with wet rolling barrels would be to buy the\\noutfit from a manufacturer who has made the business a\\nstudy.\\nThe care of the tin, in regard to keeping it free from\\ndross or slag, is an important point in obtaining perfect\\nwork, and will be referred to in its proper place,\\nTOOLS AND KETTLES.\\nThe tools employed in handling the work are very\\nsimple in construction. They consist of w ires formed\\ninto various shapes, perforated ladles or baskets made\\nfrom sheet iron or wire cloth, and tongs with the jaws\\nformed to adapt themselves to the various articles it is\\ndesigned to handle with thern. Those illustrated by Fig.\\n13 in chapter on galvanizing will be found useful and all\\nthat will be required in many cases. The ingenuity of\\nthe operator will readily suggest what is required for the\\nwork in hand.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "46 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nThe number of tinning kettles to be used depends alto-\\ngether on the class of goods to be tinned. The most com-\\nmon kinds of hardware specialties can be tinned very sat-\\nisfactorily by the use of a single kettle of tin, while the\\nbetter class of tinning, such as saddlery hardware, iron\\nspoons, etc., require, in order to get the best results, two\\nkettles, and three may be employed to good advantage.\\nWhere a plant is fitted up to do a fine grade of tinning\\nthe kettle used to give the castings their first coating of\\ntin is designated as the roughing kettle. and the other\\nkettle or kettles as the finishing. When the roughing ket-\\ntle is used no particular care is necessary to have the ar-\\nticles come out smoothly coated or free from surplus tin,\\nas the unevenness of the coating will be removed by their\\nlater treatment in finishing. The object of the roughing\\nkettle is to give the iron a thorough coating of tin as\\nrapidly as it is prepared to receive it, which prevents rust-\\ning. After the iron receives a thorough coating of tin it\\nmay be stored away until it is desired to finish it.\\nFor those having only a small amount of tinning to\\ndo it would not pay to invest in an expensive outfit of wet\\nrolling barrels, and very good results can be obtained\\nwithout them. We will say here that only a few of the\\nlarge concerns engaged in tinning are so fitted and the\\nwork they turn out is of a nature that calls for the best\\nresults possible to obtain as regards smoothness and\\nbrightness of the finished work.\\nA TINNING PLANT.\\nIn installing a tinning plant the convenient handling\\nof the work should be given all the consideration possible,\\nand the operator will find it a great help toward making\\nhis work easy, as well as to the advantage of his employer.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 47\\nif he will make a study of the best methods and tools to\\nemploy in handling the various articles that come to him\\nto be tinned.\\nWhile it is our purpose to treat this subject in a man-\\nner that will enable a novice to make a successful begin-\\nning, the best results can, of course, only be reached by\\nactual practice. With the principles and requisites nec-\\nessary to perfection in results obtained well understood,\\nthere should be no trouble experienced by one of average\\nmechanical ability in mastering the business.\\nTo make the different operations of preparing and tin-\\nning articles of malleable iron, wrought iron and steel\\neasily understood, we shall treat each operation separately.\\nWhile the illustrations we give will serve as a general\\nguide in equipping a plant, it does not follow that they\\nmust not or cannot be changed to suit local conditions.\\nIt would be impossible to illustrate the exact course to be\\nfollowed in individual cases, and those undertaking the in-\\nstallation of a plant must be governed to a great extent\\nby their requirements as they see them.\\nIt should be kept in mind in deciding what part of the\\nfactory can best be devoted to the tinning department\\nthat more or less gases and fumes prevail when the work\\nis carried on. These gases and fumes are not only dis-\\nagreeable to inhale, but are destructive to fine machinery\\nand tools and to finished work. To the end that the work\\nmay not become a source of annoyance to those not im-\\nmediately engaged in it and detrimental to machinery and\\ngoods, the plant should be located if possible in a build-\\ning by itself, taking good care to provide good ventilation\\nand drainage.\\nA room devoted to this work should not be less than\\n10 feet in hight, and the kettles and acid tanks provide l", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "48 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nwith hoods connected with the ventilators to carry off the\\ngases. The hoods should, of course, be high enough not\\nto interfere with the perfectly free movements of the\\noperator.\\nThe illustrations given contemplate tanks of cypress\\nor pine for containing the different solutions used in pre-\\nparing and finishing the work, but oil barrels sawed in\\nhalf may be employed for the purpose if they arc properly\\ncleaned either by burning out the interior or washing in\\na hot, strong solution of soda ash and water.\\nFor heating the tin hard coal is best, as it gives the\\nmost even heat and is most easily controlled. Soft coal,\\ncoke, natural gas and even wood can, however, be em-\\nployed for the purpose.\\nPLAN OF TINNING PLANT.\\nWe show in Fig. 25 a ground plan for a tinning\\nplant for general work, except the -tinning of common\\ncast iron. In this illustration A denotes the roughing\\nkettle that is. the kettle containing the tin used to give\\nthe work its first coating of tin B is the finishing kettle\\nC is the tank containing muriate of zinc D is what is\\ntermed in the trade the whipping box, which is simply\\nan arrangement to prevent the drops of molten tin being\\nthrown promiscuously over the room when the operator\\nis shaking or swinging his work to free it from the sur-\\nplus metal E is a tank made of sheet iron for containing\\nthe kerosene oil used in cooling the work, the intent being\\nto have this tank surrounded by running water to keep\\nthe oil cool, the water being contained in the companion\\ntank F G is a tank provided with a steam coil, the intent\\nbeing to have the tank filled with clean hot water, in which\\nto rinse the finished work before drying it off in the saw-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n49", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "50 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\ndust, which is contained in the box H I and O are water\\ntanks used for storing the work after it has been treated\\nin the acid K is a tank containing muriatic or sulphuric\\nacid; L and M are acid tanks, the use of which will be\\nexplained in the proper place N is a tank for containing\\nan alkali solution, and it should be provided with a steam\\ncoil R R denotes a drain through the center of the room\\nto carry off the waste water. A .sectional plan of this\\nfloor is given in Fig. 38.\\nREMOVING SCALE AND RUST WITH SULPHURIC ACID.\\nTo enable -steel and wrought iron to take a coating of\\ntin, the scale and rust must be removed. This is best ac-\\ncomplished with a pickle composed of 1 part sulphuric\\nacid to about 30 to 40 of water, bringing the solution to a\\ntemperature of about 150 degree F.\\nIf the articles are of such a shape that they pack\\nclosely together they must be stirred so that the acid will\\nhave free action on all parts alike, otherwise the scale or\\nrust will not be affected on that part that is in contact with\\nanother piece, the result being that the acid \\\\Vill burn the\\nmaterial first made clean before the scale is removed from\\nthe part in contact.\\nIn pickling sheets they must be placed in racks that\\nwill prevent one sheet lying against another. Sheets\\nshould be carefully inspected, and any spots that the acid\\nhas not touched must be removed with the aid of a sharp\\npointed steel. The shank of an old file ground to a point\\nand hardened answers the purpose very well.\\nIf the articles are small, and it is desired to give them\\na fine surface, roll them in sand and water after remov-\\ning the scale and rust with the acid solution, and to fur-\\nther improve their surface give them a second rolling in", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 51\\nscraps of leather. The effect of roUing is to give the\\narticles a smooth surface, and the smoother the surface\\nobtained the smoother and brighter will be the goods after\\ntinning.\\nWe do not wish it to be understood that the rolling\\noperation is absolutely necessary to obtain a complete\\ncoating of the goods, as they will take the tin perfectly if\\nthat operation is omitted, but the appearance of the goods\\nis greatly improved by the rolling, and when it is desired\\nto obtain the best finish possible the rolling barrel must\\nbe employed.\\nWhen the removal of scale and rust has been affected\\nand the material is perfectly clean it should be stored in\\ntanks containing clear water, there to remain until the\\noperator is ready to put it through the subsequent opera-\\ntions. Do not allow the work to remain in running water,\\nas it will soon rust or oxidize if it is.\\nThe operator must not fail to examine the work fre-\\nquently while it remains in the hot pickle to determme\\nwhen the desired result has been obtained. If it is al-\\nlowed to remain too long a time after the scale and rust\\nhave been removed the acid will attack the surface of the\\nmaterial and leave it rough and seamed. Imperfections\\ncaused by overpickling cannot be covered up by the coat-\\ning of tin, and the commercial appearance of the goods is\\ninjured.\\nThe removal of scale and rust can be accomplished by a\\npickle composed of i part muriatic acid to 15 to 20 parts\\nof water, but the cost is greater and the result obtained no\\nbetter. It is not advisable to use this acid for the\\npurpose unless the amount of work to be treated is very\\nlimited.\\nIn Fig. 25 K represents the tank to be used for the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "52 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\npurpose just explained, and I indicates the storage tank\\nfor the prepared work.\\nCLEANING SANDY CASTINGS BY SULPHURIC ACID.\\nCastings that have sand on them must be subjected to\\na treatment that will effectually remove it, as a perfect\\ncoating cannot be obtained if a particle of sand remains.\\nThe removal of sand can be accomplished by placing the\\ncastings on an inclined platform and keeping them wet\\nwith a pickle composed of i part sulphuric acid to 6 of\\nwater, until the sand is loosened enough to wash off by\\nthe application of water. From lo to 20 hours is re-\\nquired to accomplish its removal and then a casting brush\\noften has to be employed to get out all the little particles\\nthat are burned in where there are sharp angles.\\nRolling with plenty of sharp scratches or shot is the\\nonly sure way to obtain a perfectly clean casting, and we\\nshould never attempt to tin malleable castings in any con-\\nsiderable quantity without the aid of a rolling barrel. As\\nin the case with articles of steel or wrought iron, the wet\\nrolling barrel supplemented by the dry rolling in leather\\nscraps fits the castings to take a beautiful coating of tin\\nand a bright luster.\\nThe platform on which the castings are placed for\\npickling should have a tank placed under one end at its\\nlowest point to catch the acid as it flows from the castings\\nafter each bailing operation. This pickling arrangement\\nis designated as L in Fig. 25, and the tank designated as\\nM can be used to store the prepared work until it is de-\\nsired to give it the finishing treatments.\\nCLEANING SANDY CASTINGS WITH HYDROFLUORIC ACID.\\nWe have given the course to be followed for cleaning\\nsandy castings with sulphuric acid, because it may not al-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 53\\nways be possible to obtain hydrofluoric acid, and because\\nhydrofluoric acid is a comparatively new agent in the\\nbusiness. Where it is possible to substitute this powerful\\nacid for sulphuric acid it should be employed, as its effects\\nare much more rapid and certain, and are less destructive\\nto the castings.\\nIn employing hydrofluoric acid to remove sand make\\na solution for slow pickling in the proportion of i part\\nacid to 30 of water. For quick pickling make the pro-\\nportion I of acid to 20 of water. Immerse the castings\\nuntil the sand is dissolved, which will be in from 15 min-\\nutes to 3 hours, depending on the strength of the solu-\\ntion and the tenaciousness of the sand.\\nA good arrangement for doing this work is to have\\ntwo tanks, one elevated by means of a bench or stand, so\\nthat the bottom of the upper tank will be a few inches\\nabove the top of the lower tank. Provide a hole in the\\nupper tank so that when the plug is removed the solu-\\ntion will escape into the lower tank and leave the castings\\nuncovered by the solution. When all the solution has es-\\ncaped into the lower tank cover the castings with water\\nuntil it is desired to remove them for subsequent treat-\\nments. The solution in the lower tank is ready to use on\\na fresh batch of castings. We do not show this arrange-\\nment in Fig. 25, as it can take the place of the sulphuric\\nacid, designated as ]M in that illustration.\\nREMOVING PAINT OR GREASE.\\nIf the work is greasy or has paint on it, it must be\\ncleaned with a hot solution of caustic soda or soda ash\\nand water. Make the solution very hot and strong, and\\nimmerse the work in it until it is free from all such mat-\\nter, after which rinse it thoroughly in clean water. This", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "54 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nOperation should precede pickling when it is necessary to\\nperform it. The tanks for this purpose are designated in\\nFig. 25 as N and O.\\nTINNING WITH A SINGLE KETTLE OF TIN.\\nAs already stated, very good results can be obtained by\\nsimply using one kettle of tin where the commercial ap-\\npearance of the work is of secondary importance. Where\\nonly a single kettle is employed the tin should be main-\\ntained at a temperature of about 500 degrees F., and the\\nwork may be cooled in hot water and dried off in saw-\\ndust.\\nThe operations preliminary to dipping the work in the\\ntinning bath are precisely what they would be if more\\nthan one kettle of tin was used. As these operations will\\nbe explained in connection with those for using two ket-\\ntles we will not give them here.\\nWhere only a single kettle is employed more or less\\ntrouble will be experienced in keeping the dross or slag\\nwhich rises to the surface of the tin from adhering to the\\nwork and in keeping the tin at a uniform temperature.\\nThe dross or slag must be removed from the tin fre-\\nquently with a perforated skimmer, and when the black\\nflux that forms on the surface of the tin from the muriate\\nof zinc, in which the castings are dipped previous to im-\\nmersing them in the molten tin, is present in sufficient\\nquantities to interfere with drawing the work, it must\\nalso be removed in part. A small amount is beneficial to\\nthe work, but when it accumulates in a sufficient quantity\\nto catch on the work as it is drawn out it is apt to stain\\nthe work and leave white streaks wherever it touches.\\nThe cooling water should also be kept clean and free from\\nacid. If it is not the work is liable to rust. In Figs. 29,", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 55\\n30 and 31 we show manner of bricking in a single kettle,\\nthe casting details being shown in Fig. 32.\\nTINNING WITH TWO OR MORE KETTLES OF TIN.\\nWhen the work has been made perfectly clean from\\nsand, scale, rnst, grease or paint by some one of the treat-\\nments described, it is ready for the final operations. If\\nthe work is of a kind that will admit of its being strung on\\nwires, use such wires as seem best adapted to the work\\nin hand. For many kinds of work a piece of wire bent in\\nthe shape of a croquet wicket will be found just the thing.\\nGood stifif wires should be used, and they should be long\\nenough to allow plenty of room for the operator to grasp\\nthe ends without getting burned. That is to say, if you\\nhave 10 inches of tin in the kettle, make the wire 20 inches\\nlong, which will allow 10 inches of wire to be out of the\\ntin where the operator can grasp it when he is ready to\\ndraw the work from the kettle. Provide plenty of these\\nwires so that the handling of the work may be facilitated.\\nString on wires as much of the work as you think you\\ncan handle comfortably, and put them, several strings at a\\ntime, into the alkali solution. The work may be allowed\\nto remain in this solution for several minutes, or while the\\noperator is filling more wires. From the alkali solution\\nthe work is to be passed into the rinsing tank, and care\\nshould be taken that all traces of the alkali are removed.\\nWhen this is accomplished the work is to be given a\\nfew minutes immersion in a solution of muriatic acid and\\nwater. This mixture should be in the proportion of i\\nof acid to 4 or 5 of water in cold weather, while in warm\\nweather 8 or 10 of water to i of acid will do the required\\nwork. The object of this dip is to remove any trace of\\nrust that may have formed on the work. The tank for", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "56 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nthis purpose is designated as K in Fig. 25, and for many\\nkinds of work, such as castings that have been cleaned by\\ndry rolling and goods that have been made of material that\\nhas no scale on it, all that is necessary is to give it a few\\nminutes immersion in this solution.\\nFrom this last dip of muriatic acid and water, which\\nby the way should never be omitted, the work is to be\\ndipped in muriate of zinc, which is the last dip previous to\\nimmersing it in the molten tin. Tank C, Fig. 25, is\\nused to contain the muriate of zinc, which solution is made\\nby dissolving scraps of zinc in clear muriatic acid.\\nPASSING THE WORK THROUGH THE TINNING KETTLES.\\nIf two kettles of tin are in use, as shown in Fig. 25 by\\nA and B, take a wire full of the work to be dipped and im-\\nmerse it while wet with the muriate of zinc in the kettle\\nof tin designed to give the work its first coating. This is\\nthe roughing kettle, and is designated in Fig. 25 as A.\\nPut several of the strings of work into the kettle and\\nallow them to remain until the work is as hot as the tin.\\nThe tin in this kettle should be maintained at a heat of\\nabout 500 degrees F.\\nAfter the work has remained in the first kettle the\\nrequisite time take a wire full in the left hand, and with\\na skimmer held in the right hand clear a space on the sur-\\nface of the tin large enough to admit of the wire full of\\nwork being removed without any of the slag or flux ad-\\nhering to it. Remove the wire full of work and pass it\\ndirectly to the second kettle. It is not necessary to shake\\noff the surplus tin when removing from the first kettle,\\nbut it is necessary to use care that none of the flux or slag\\nis carried over to the second kettle on the work.\\nRetaining hold of the wire containing the work the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n57\\nOperator allows it to remain in the second kettle for the\\nfraction of a minute until the heat of the work attained in\\nthe first kettle is reduced to about the temperature of the\\ntin in the second kettle, which for most purposes should be\\nabout 400 degrees F. \\\\^ery small articles may require that\\nthe tin in the second kettle attain a temperature of 450\\ndegrees F. A much higher heat will cause the tallow,\\nwhich is on the second kettle, to a depth of 4 to i inch, to\\nignite. When the work is in the condition named draw\\nit quickly from the tin, and after a few rapid swinging\\nmotions to free it of surplus metal plunge it into a tank\\nof kerosene oil, using a motion calculated to keep the ar-\\nticles from sticking together. A little practice will soon\\ndetermine what motion is best adapted to keep the ar-\\nticles separated and also prevent any lumps of tin form-\\ning on the work.\\nD in Fig. 25 denotes the position of the box provided\\nto catch the drops of tin that are thrown from the work\\nas the operator swings it to and fro. E denotes the tank\\nfor containing the oil used for cooling, as already ex-\\nplained. The tank containing this oil should be sur-\\nrounded by water to prevent the oil heating to a point\\nwhere it would ignite.\\nThe work should be allowed to remain in the oil long\\nenough to set the tin, and it should then be thrown into\\nfine sawdust to clean it of the oil. If the articles are very\\nheavy it may be necessary to plunge them into cold water\\nfrom the oil.\\nTf the work cannot be strung on wires a basket may\\nbe used for dipping it. The basket may be of sheet iron,\\nin which case it should be provided with plenty of holes\\nto show the tin to pass off. or it may be made of wire net-\\nting with a mesh sufficiently small to prevent the work", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "58 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nfalling through. Fig. 13 illustrates the shape of these\\nbaskets, which are designated as A and B. Nails, tacks,\\nrivets and all similar articles are dipped in the tin by\\nmeans of these baskets. Tongs are also used for handling\\nheavy articles, but those used in the tin should not be used\\nfor cooling the work, as they would mark it. The tongs\\nused for cooling should not be put into the molten tin.\\nTheir shape may be varied to suit the form of the article\\nhandled.\\nTINNING WIRE IN COILS.\\nIn large manufacturing establishments machinery is\\nemployed whereby several strands of wire are passed\\nthrough the tinning kettle simultaneously. To do the\\nwork on a small scale, provide reels that will accommo-\\ndate a coil of wire. Place one of the reels in a position\\nwhere the black wire will pass, as it is uncoiled, through\\na tank containing muriate of zinc, and then through the\\nkettle of tin. The other reel is placed in a position where\\nit will take up the wire as it passes through the tin. The\\nreel used to draw the work through the kettle must, of\\ncourse, be provided with an arrangement for turning it,\\nand a device to hold the wire under the muriate of zinc\\nand also under the tin as it passes from one reel to the\\nother must be employed. As the necessary arrangement\\nwill readily suggest itself we do not think it necessary to\\nillustrate it.\\nAt the point where the wire leaves the molten tin a\\npiece of tow is twisted around the strand, sufficiently\\ntight to wipe off the surplus metal, which flows back into\\nthe kettle. If the wire is very heavy it must be made to\\npass through water after it leaves the tin, the water tank\\nbeing placed where the wire will not enter it until it has", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n59\\npassed through the bunch of tow used to wipe off the\\nsurpkis metal.\\nIf the wire is covered with a heavy scale or rust it\\nmust be cleaned in sulphuric acid the same as any other\\nwork. If it is bri,e:ht wire all that is necessary is to im-\\nmerse it in a solution of muriatic acid and water, i part\\nacid to 6 of water. If wire is to be tinned in quantity a\\nlong shallow kettle is best adapted to the purpose.\\nTINNING STEEL SPOONS AND SIMILAR ARTICLES.\\nFor this purpose provide a good sized kettle for\\nroughing the work that is, for giving it a prepar-\\natory coating. For finishing the work use small kettles.\\nA kettle 15 inches long, 8 inches wide and 6 inches deep\\nis ample for work of this kind. We refer to a plant fitted\\nespecially for this business. The work can be done in an\\noutfit such as we illustrate by Fig. 25, but large finishing\\nkettles are not as well adapted for this business as small\\nones, as the tin in a large kettle is apt to become dull in\\ncolor by constant use, while in a small kettle the tin is\\nturned over more rapidly, which allows it to hold its color\\nmuch better.\\nThe articles should be rolled in tumbling barrels\\nwith scraps of leather and then carefully cleaned in\\nan alkali solution. After rinsing off the alkali they should\\nbe immersed in quite a strong solution of muriatic acid\\nand water for five or ten minutes, and then dipped in the\\nroughing kettle by means of a wire basket, first dipping\\nthe work in a solution of muriate of zinc. As soon as\\nthey are thoroughly coated shake them out of the basket\\nin such a way as will insure the separation of as many as\\npossible. It makes no difference whether thev come", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "So GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nsmooth or not so long as they are thoroughly coated.\\nThe smoothness will come in the finishing operation.\\nTo finish the goods take them, a piece at a time, in a\\npair of tongs adapted to hold them and immerse in the\\nfinishing kettle, the tin in which is covered with beef tal-\\nlow to the depth of about inch. As soon as the article\\nreaches the same heat as the tin remove it and allow it to\\ncool enough so that the tin will not run, after which wipe\\nup the goods in flour.\\nRETINNING.\\nThis branch of the business is comparatively simple,\\nsince no pickling is required. An outfit for doing the\\nwork usually consists of the three kettles one for rough-\\ning the work and two for finishing. The roughing ket-\\ntle is usually set up by itself, although it may be con-\\ntained in the same brick work with the finishing kettles.\\nFor retinning, kettles shaped like those used for sweat-\\ning zinc dross are best adapted for the work, and the man-\\nner of setting is practically the same. They should be\\nco\\\\ ered with a hood to catch the smoke and fumes which\\nare constantly rising. The hood should be constructed\\nto leave one side open so that the operator has free access\\nto the kettles from one side. A view of a tinning stack\\nresembles an open grate or the fire place of olden times,\\nthe brick setting to the kettles being about the hight of an\\nordinary work bench.\\nThe finishing kettles are kept covered with beef tal-\\nlow and palm oil, and care must be taken to prevent any\\ndross or slag being carried over from one kettle to the\\nother in the operation of passing the work from kettle to\\nkettle. When large articles are being treated, like pressed", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n61\\ndishpans, a swab of hemp is often used to free the article\\nfrom dross before removing it to the last kettle.\\nIn drawing the article from the finishing kettle the\\nFig. 26.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 End Elevation of Brick Work for Setting Two Kettles,\\nFig. 27.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Vertical Section through Fig. 26 at A\\\\ A\\\\\\nmotion should not be too rapid. The piece should be held\\nin one position and the drop of tin that forms at the low-\\nest point removed by passing a piece of round iron along", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "62\\nGALVAXIZTNG AND TINNING.\\nthe edge. One end of this rod of iron is kept in the kettle\\nof tin so that it is always ready for use.\\nWhen the tin has set, the article is passed to the\\nFig. S8. ^Horizontal Section through Fig. S6 at B\\\\ B\\\\\\nFig. 29.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 End Elevation of Brick Work for Setting Single\\nKettle.\\nbench to be rubbed in flour. In large establishments\\ngirls arc mostly employed to clean the work with flour\\nafter it is tinned.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n63\\nThe heat of the tin must be gauged to a nicety. If\\ntoo hot the tallow will ignite and the work come out yel-\\nlow. If too cool the coating will be heavy and will not\\nflow smoothly.\\nIt is perhaps unnecessary to say that in case rust has\\nFig. SO.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Section through Fig. 29 at A\\\\ A\\\\\\nFig. 31.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Section of Fig. 29 at B\\\\ B\\\\\\nformed on the work from any cause it must be removed\\nwith acid the same as from any other work. Preparatory\\nto dipping in the roughing kettle the work must be dipped\\nin muriate of zinc.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "64\\niALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nSETTING RETINNING KETTLES.\\nKettles for retinning are set in a variety of ways, and\\nhardly any two plants have the same arrangement of kettles\\nor other apparatus. The principal point to consider in\\nB\\nXS\\nD^\\nFig. S2. Details of Tinning Kettle.\\nbricking in kettles for retinning and, in fact, those for any\\npurpose, is to place the fire and ash pit doors where thev\\nwill not interfere with the working of the kettles while the\\nfires are being attended to.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "TINNIxVG. 65\\nWe give in Figs. 39 and 40 perspective views of the\\nbrick setting of a retinning stack. Fig. 39 shows the ket-\\ntles in position, and Fig. 40 is a view of the back of the\\nstack, showing the fire and ash pit openings.\\nIn these illustrations the entire stack is represented as\\nbeing of brick. This plan is undoubtedly the most eco-\\nnomical in the end, although many stacks are inclosed\\nwith sheet iron about the brick work surrounding the\\nkettles. We think the perspective views will enable one\\nto construct a stack without our giving the entire arrange-\\nment in detail, as we do in Figs. 26 to 31, inclusive.\\nFig. ^2 shows the casting details for setting kettles as\\nrepresented by Figs. 26 to 31, inclusive. A gives a\\ntop, side and end view of the kettle B shows the coping\\nplate C is the grate in detail D is the front bearing bar\\nin detail, and E the back bearing bar. The position of\\neach piece is designated by a corresponding letter in Figs.\\n26 to 31, inclusive.\\nFig. 26 is an end elevation of the brick work, Fig. 2y\\nis a vertical section of Fig. 26 at A A and Fig. 28 is a\\nhorizontal section of Fig. 26 at B B Figs. 29, 30 and\\n31 show the manner of bricking in a single kettle.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "TINNING COMMON GRAY IRON.\\nThe tinning of common gray iron castings has become\\nquite an extensive industry in the last seven or eight years.\\nPrevious to this time there were only one or two parties in\\nthe country able to do the work with any degree of suc-\\ncess. While manufacturers had long recognized the fact\\nthat tin was a much more desirable metal tlian zinc for\\ncoating certain articles of culinary use the want of a cheap\\nand practical process for tinning on gray iron precluded\\ntheir giving the matter serious attention.\\nThe author perfected a method in 1891. a full descrip-\\ntion of which will be given in this article, that proved a\\npractical success, and to-day it is almost impossible to sell\\nzinc coated articles that are to be used in the preparation\\nof food.\\nIn addition to the uses to which tinned gray iron is\\nput by the manufacturers of kitchen and other hardware\\nspecialties, it has been found of great advantage to give\\narticles of cast iron that are to be copper or brass plated a\\ncoating of tin previous to plating them. The advantages\\ncome from the lessened quantity of material necessary to\\nuse in electroplating, the preventing of leaking or\\nsweating, so common where the plating is deposited\\ndirectly on the bare casting, and also in giving the articles\\nthe appearance of spelter or brass castings.\\nBy this process gray iron castings are prepared for\\ntinning by rolling them in a solution of muriatic acid, sal\\nammoniac and water, the rolling barrel being constructed\\n60", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 67\\nto retain at a high pressure the gas formed by the chem-\\nicals used. The use of this barrel makes it desirable to\\nlocate the tinning plant in a building by itself, as the gas\\ngenerated is constantly escaping, carrying with it quan-\\ntities of the solution. At the best the barrel room for\\ngray iron tinning is a wet, dirty place, and the entire op-\\neration requires the use of considerable water.\\nDESCRIPTION OF TINNING PLANT.\\nIn erecting a building for this purpose particular atten-\\ntion should be paid to ventilation and drainage. A plan\\nfor constructing a floor, with a view to perfect drainage,\\nis shown by Fig. 38. The arrangement of the outfit is\\nshown by Fig. 33, in which A is the rolling barrel for pre-\\nparing the castings for tinning. B is a tank to receive the\\ncastings after they have been treated in the rolling barrel\\nA. This tank should be provided with trucks, and a\\ntrack should be laid so that the tank can be run under the\\nrolling barrel to receive the prepared work. C is a tank\\nfor storing the prepared castings previous to further treat-\\nment, as hereafter described D,E, F and G are divisions of\\none common tank D is to contain an alkali solution, and\\nis to be provided with a steam coil, as shown, to heat the\\nsolution E is a compartment for containing water for\\nrinsing; F is to contain an acid solution; G is for the\\nmuriate of zinc H is the roughing kettle of tin K is the\\nfinishing kettle L is the oil for cooling the work. The\\narrangement of this tanR was explained in the chapter on\\ngeneral tinning M is a wooden tank large enough to ac-\\ncommodate the iron tank L and allow it to be surrounded\\nwith water N is a tank for containing hot water, in which\\nthe tinned work is dipped to remove any traces of oil or\\nacid; it is provided with a steam coil, as shown; O is a", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "68\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\n3r\\n8\\nI\\nCO\\nSi\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a22.\\ns\\no\\nC5", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 69\\nbox to contain sawdust for drying off the work when\\nit comes from the hot water contained in the tank N R R\\nis a drain for carrying oft the waste water and S S are\\nthe tracks for moving the tanks B and C T is a tank for\\ncontaining a sohition of hydrofluoric acid, to be used as\\nhereafter described, and U is a storage tank. It is per-\\nhaps needless to say that the ground plan may be changed\\nto suit local conditions.\\nOnly the most simple tools are required, which may\\nbe varied by the ingenuity of the operator to suit existing\\nconditions of work. We give a sketch showing the most\\ncommon in Fig. 13.\\nGENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.\\nIn preparing gray iron castings to take a coating of\\ntin there are several essential things to be taken into con-\\nsideration the quality of the iron, the form of the cast-\\nings, their condition when they come to the tinner, and if\\ncored, the nature of the cores used.\\nHard iron needs a longer preparation than soft iron\\nand a longer immersion in the molten tin. Castings that\\nare made from patterns not designed with a view to avoid-\\ning sharp angles, in which the molding sand can find lodg-\\nment, are much more difficult to prepare than those made\\nfrom patterns free from these obstacles. It is, of course,\\nnot always possible to do away with sharp angles in mak-\\ning patterns for castings that are designed to be tinned,\\nbut whenever possible they should be avoided in the inter-\\nest of easy cleaning from sand and perfect coating of the\\nw^ork.\\nCastings that have been freed from sand by the use of\\nsulphuric acid require a special preparation before they\\nwill take a perfect coating of tin, and the use of this acid", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "70\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nshould be avoided if possible. Cored castings made with\\ncores in which rosin has been used must be treated dif-\\nferently from those made with an oil or glue core. For\\nthe intelligent understanding of the different conditions\\nwe give the specific course to be followed in each case.\\nFig. Slf,. Top View of Rolling Barrel with Receiving Tank\\nin Position.\\nThe perfect coating of gray iron requires the use of\\ntwo tinning kettles, and where castings are to be tinned\\nprevious to electroplating three kettles of tin should be\\nused to insure .the smoothest coating and the brightest\\nluster.\\nTUMBLING BARREL.\\nAn outfit for preparing and tmning cast iron consists\\nof a tumblintr barrel, constructed in accordance with the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n71\\nplan shown by Figs. 34, 35, 36 and 2,7- The points\\nwhereni this barrel differs from the ordinary wet rollino-\\nFig. SS.Side View of Fig. 34,\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094J T\\nFig. S6.\u00e2\u0080\u0094Gear End of Fig. S4.\\nbarrel are that it is built very heavy and strong-. It is\\nprovided with valves for the escape of the gases generated", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "72 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nby the chemicals used, and the opening where the barrel is\\nfilled is arranged to close tightly.\\nFor general work we prefer a barrel 48 inches long\\nand 24 inches in diameter. The shell we make of ^-inch\\nboiler iron, and use cast iron heads iVz inches thick. The\\nmanhole cover we make i inch thick, and have it well\\nribbed to give additional strength.\\nFig. 34 is a top view of the barrel, and it also shows\\nthe receiving tank H, designated in the ground plan, Fig.\\n33, as B.\\nFig. 35 is a side view of Fig. 34, and Fig. 36 is a view\\nof the gear end of the barrel.\\nFig. 37 gives the details of the barrel, in which A is an\\nend view of the trunnions B, and C and D are the pillow\\nblocks supporting the barrel and E those for the pinion\\nshaft F is the valve for the relief of gas and G is a view\\nof the end of the barrel on which the valves F are placed.\\nTwo or more kettles (depending on the nature of the\\nwork) set after the plan illustrated by Figs. 26, 27 and 28,\\nand various tanks built after Fig. 12, complete the outfit.\\nThe first operation in preparing the castings for tin-\\nning is to free them from sand. This is best accomplished\\nby the use of the ordinary tumbling barrel, which gives\\nthe castings a smooth clean surface while doing the work\\nof removing the sand. Where the castings are of a na-\\nture to prevent their perfect cleaning by tumbling, the\\nsand should be removed by a solution of hydrofluoric acid\\nand water. Sulphuric acid will do the work, but in a\\nmuch inferior manner and to the injury of the castings in\\nrelation to their ready and perfect coating. The reason\\nfor this is easily understood. Hydrofluoric acid acts di-\\nrectly on the sand, dissolving it rapidly without attacking\\nthe iron to any great extent. The action of sulphuric acid", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\nn\\n1\\n?q r 1\\nO |l\\nli\\n0)\\nD\\nr^,\\nm\\nFig. 37.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Details of Rolling Barrel", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "74\\nGALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nis the reverse, the iron being dissolved on the surface,\\ncausing the sand to fall oft while the sand itself is not\\naffected.\\nFREEING GRAY IRON CASTINGS FROM SAND BY HYDRO-\\nFLUORIC ACID.\\nWhile this operation is nearly the same as the one\\ngiven for cleaning malleable iron by the use of this acid\\nFig. SS. Detail of Floor Drainage.\\nwe wish to impress the operator with the fact that in\\ntreating gray iron with acid of any kind, for the purpose\\nof preparing it for tinning, much more care must be ex-\\npended in the operation than with malleable iron, as the\\noverpickling of gray iron leaves the surface soft and\\ngummy, in which condition it will not take a coating of\\ntin, and it is no easy matter to get it in a condition where\\nit will.\\nFor quick cleaning of sandy castings by the use of\\nhydrofluoric acid the preparation should be i of acid to", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "TINNING.\\n75\\nFig. 39.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Front View of Retinning Stack.\\nFig. 40.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Back and End Vieiv of Fig. 39.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "76 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\n20 of water. For slow cleaning, which ir necessary on\\ncastings having sharp angles into w^hich the molding sand\\nhas burned, use the acid in the proportion of i of acid to\\n30 of water. The castings may remain in this solution\\nuntil the sand is dissolved, after which, provided they\\nhave not been made with rosin cores, they are ready to be\\nplaced in the tumbling barrel used to prepare them for\\ntinning. If rosin cores have been used they are to be\\ntreated in a special way, which will be explained in its\\nturn.\\nA good arrangement to clean sandy castings with\\nhydrofluoric acid is to have two tanks (oil barrels sawed\\nin half will answer), one elevated above the other by\\nmeans of a stand or bench, so that the top of the lower\\ntank will be 3 or 4 inches below the bottom of the ele-\\nvated tank. Bore a hole in the side of the upper tank\\nclose to the bottom and provide a plug. Place the cast-\\nings in the upper tank and cover them with the solution,\\nwhich has previously been mixed and is contained in the\\ntank below. When the castings have been completely\\nfreed from sand remove the plug and allow the solution to\\nescape into the tank below, where it remains until re-\\nquired for use again. No specific rule can be given as to\\nthe time required to clean the castings, and it is not neces-\\nsary, as an examination of the work from time to time\\nwhile under treatment will determine when they are clean.\\nCastings on which a light sand is attached might be clean\\nafter 15 minutes immersion in the solution, while castings\\nhaving a heavy coating of sand, or on which the sand has\\nburned, might require three or four hours.\\nIf the nature of the sand attached to the castings\\nmakes it seem probable that they will require a longer im-\\nmersion in the acid, weaken it by adding water to a point", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 77\\nwhere there can be no possible danger of the castings\\nbeing affected in the way mentioned in the beginning of\\nthis subject.\\nT and U in Fig. 33 are the tanks designed for treat-\\ning the castings with hydrofluoric acid. If it is found\\nimpracticable to get this acid the work may be done with\\nsulphuric acid, in which case the arrangement for its use\\nwill occupy the same position as designated for hydro-\\nfluoric acid.\\nCLEAXIXG SANDY CASTINGS W^ITH SULPHURIC ACID.\\nIf sulphuric acid is used to free the castings from sand\\nplace them on an inclined, raised platform, which platform\\nshould be of a size to accommodate the intended produc-\\ntion and arranged to allow the solution to flow back into\\nthe tank placed at the lowest point to receive it. Make the\\nsolution in the proportion of i of acid to 6 of water, and\\nkeep the castings wet with this solution until the sand is\\nreadily removed by the application of water. Gray iron\\ncastings cleaned in this way will have a soft, gummy de-\\nposit on the surface, and will not take as perfect a coating\\nof tin as castings cleaned by dry tumbling or by the use\\nof hydrofluoric acid, and they must be given a special\\ntreatment before tinning, which will be described in con-\\nnection with the treatment for castings made with rosin\\ncores and hard and greasy castings.\\nAfter the castings have been freed from sand in some\\none of the ways described, provided they are not exces-\\nsively hard castings or made with rosin cores, are not\\ngreasy or pickled with sulphuric acid, and have not\\nbeen faced with black lead facing, then they are ready for\\ntumbling in the solution of muriatic acid, sal ammoniac\\nand water. If any of these conditions exist they must", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "78 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nbe given a treatment in a bath of hot caustic soda or\\nsoda ash.\\nTHE USE OF A HOT ALKALI BATH IN CERTAIN CASES.\\nIf castings have been overpickled that is, left in the\\npickle until the surface has become covered with a soft,\\ngummy substance or if rosin cores have been used in mak-\\ning the castings or black lead facing used to give a\\nsmooth surface, or if grease or paint is present, they must\\nbe immersed for several minutes in a boiling solution of\\ncaustic soda or soda ash. Make the solution very strong,\\nand see that the strength is maintained by adding fresh\\nmaterial as needed.\\nAfter this treatment the castings must be thoroughly\\nwashed with clean water before they are placed in the\\nbarrel used to prepare them for tinning. D in Fig. 33\\ndesignates the tank to be used for the hot alkali solution\\nand F in the same illustration is the tank used for rinsing.\\nPREPARING THE CASTINGS IN THE GAS BARREL.\\nThe details of cleaning having been carefully attended\\nto, place the castings in the tumbling barrel, together with\\na quantity of ordinary stars, such as are used in dry\\ntumbling, being careful to load the barrel in such a way as\\nto prevent breaking or w^earing the corners of the castings.\\nTea kettles should be filled full of the stars or shot before\\nplacing them in the tumbling barrel and light, delicate\\ncastings should be packed tight enough to prevent break-\\ning. Stars or shot sufficient to fill the barrel about one-\\nfourth full will be found the most desirable quantity for\\nordinary work, although on hollow ware much more is\\nneeded, or enough to take up nearly all the vacant space.\\nAfter the barrel has been loaded in the way described put", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 79\\nin sufficient water to fill it about three-fourths full, then\\nadd to the barrel 15 pounds of commercial muriatic acid\\nand 2 pounds of gray granulated sal ammoniac. The\\nbarrel is now ready to be closed and started, presuming\\nthat the operator has examined the valves to see that they\\nare in perfect working order previous to loading the\\nbarrel.\\nAfter the barrel has been in motion from 5 to 15 min-\\nutes, depending on the temperature of the water used,\\nthere will be formed sufficient gas to cause the valves to\\nopen. The escape of gas will be accompanied by quanti-\\nties of the solution, and the end of the barrel on which\\nthe valves are placed should be inclosed, unless the barrel\\nis set up in a different room from the rest of the outfit.\\nThe time that the castings should be rolled in this solu-\\ntion varies from two and one-half to five hours. Soft\\nsmooth castings will take a nice coating after a prepara-\\ntion of two and one-half hours, while to obtain the same\\nresults on hard iron, iron cleaned by the use of sulphuric\\nacid, hollow ware and tea kettles and castings having a\\nblack lead facing, five hours in the barrel are necessary.\\nIt is safe to say that three and one-half hours will properly\\nprepare ordinary castings, the barrel making 40 revolu-\\ntions a minute. For hollow ware, tea kettles and very\\ndelicate castings the barrel should not attain a speed of\\nover 30 revolutions per minute. After the castings have\\nbeen rolled in the solution the required time open the\\nbarrel and cover its contents with water immediately.\\nDo not let any time be wasted in getting the castings cov-\\nered with water, as a slight exposure to the air will cause\\nthem to oxidize and prevent them from taking the tin.\\nIf the castings are properly prepared\u00e2\u0080\u0094that is, if they\\nhave been rolled in the solution long enough they will be", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "So GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nin such a condition after rinsing that they will not soil a\\nwhite cloth to any extent.\\nAs soon as the operator has determined whether the\\ncastings will tin properly (which is done by putting one or\\ntwo of the pieces through the regular treatment) he will\\nproceed to dump the contents of the barrel into the receiv-\\ning tank, located directly under the barrel. This tank is\\ndesignated in Fig. 33 as B, and should contain about one-\\nthird more cubic feet than the rolling barrel. From this\\nreceiving tank the castings should be removed to the stor-\\nage tank designated C in Fig. 33. A good sized coke\\nfork is best for handling the castings from tank to tank\\nas it lets the shot or stars fall to the floor and separate\\nfrom the castings.\\nIn placing the castings in the storage tank care should\\nbe taken to have those with depressions or cavities go\\nunder the water with the depressions or cavities up. In\\nother words castings of a shape that would admit of a\\nparticle of air being retained should be so placed that no\\nair will be retained. If this occurs there will be a rusty\\nplace form on the casting to which the tin will not adhere.\\nShould it be found that the castings are not properly pre-\\npared the barrel should be recharged by adding 6 pounds\\nof muriatic acid and allowed to run about an hour longer.\\nThe important point to be kept in mind in preparing\\ncast iron for tinning is that the surface of the iron must\\nbe made perfectly clean. Not only clean from sand and\\nrust, but from every foreign substance. It may seem to\\nthe reader that we are dwelling on this point unneces-\\nsarily, but only by the most careful attention to the proper\\npreparation of the castings and in keeping them in the\\nsame clean condition until they receive the first coat of tin\\ncan perfectly satisfactory work be obtained.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "TINNING. ol\\nIf the iron is allowed to roll in the solution too long a\\ntime the surface becomes soft from the action of the acid,\\nand the tin will not take. The same trouble will be ex-\\nperienced if the solution in the rolling barrel is too strong,\\nor if the castings are allowed to remain in the solution\\ntoo long after they are rolled. In rolling the castings cal-\\nculation should be made to complete the work before the\\nstopping of the power at noon and night. Three and one-\\nhalf hours being required on an average to prepare most\\niron in the rolling barrel, it is easy to arrange to start the\\nbarrel in time to complete one batch in the morning and\\none in the afternoon. This would furnish work enough\\nto keep two hands engaged, although one set of kettles\\nwould take care of all the iron that could be prepared in\\na barrel the size we show viz., 2 feet in diameter by 4\\nfeet in length.\\nIf the castings are quite soft and clean three batches\\nmay be prepared in ten hours, in which case the second\\nbatch should be in the barrel in time to give it at least\\none hour s rolling before the power is stopped at noon.\\nWhen a batch of iron is left in the barrel during the noon\\nhour, leave the barrel closed, and in a position where one\\nof the valves will be up or the opening above the solution\\nin the barrel. Unless this is done the valves may open\\nand allow the solution to escape, necessitating recharging\\nthe barrel. If the batch is not completed in season to\\nremove it to the storage tank before the time for stopping\\nthe power at night, remove the cover, and allow enough\\nfresh water to flow into the barrel to displace at least half\\nof the solution, and leave it in that condition until morn-\\ning, taking care that the valves do not leak, that the iron\\nis completely covered, and that the water is not left run-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "82 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nning, as iron will rust in running water even if the water\\ncovers it.\\nIn rolling a batch of iron it will often be found that\\na black foam will rise to the surface of the solution when\\nthe barrel is opened. This is from the iron dust left on\\ncastings that are cleaned by dry tumbling, and it will also\\nbe found in preparing castings that have been faced with\\nfoundry facing of any sort. When this foam or scum\\nis present, let water flow into the barrel, with the opening\\nin such a position as to allow the objectionable matter to\\npass ofif. The first one or two batches prepared in a new\\nbarrel arc liable to give trouble in tinning unless the in-\\nside of the barrel, with the shot to be used, is cleaned with\\na strong alkali solution. The simplest way is to put the\\nshot into the barrel, and after filling it about half full of\\nstrong, hot alkali solution, close the barrel, and allow it\\nto run an hour or more, after which the interior of the\\nbarrel and the shot used should be rinsed with plenty of\\nclean water.\\nWhere castings are tinned for the purpose of electro-\\nplating them it is desirable, if an extra smooth surface is\\ndesired, to give them a rolling in gravel and water in the\\nordinary wet rolling barrel, although this treatment is\\nnot necessary in order to prepare them to take a coating\\nof tin. In treating castings in this way use a coarse hard\\ngravel, and some castings may be rolled 20 to 30 hours\\nto good advantage if the barrel is properly loaded.\\nIt sometimes happens that castings are encountered\\nthat have a ground work of delicate design into which\\nthe sand has burned. If such are placed in the rolling\\nbarrel with a good quantity of shot and given two or\\nthree hours rolling in a solution of hydrofluoric acid and\\nwater, i part acid to 75 or 100 of water, they will be", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 83\\ncleaned very nicely. Where this is clone let the hydro-\\nfluoric solution run out of the barrel before charging it\\nwith the regular solution of muriatic acid, sal ammoniac\\nand water.\\nThe operator must bear in mind at all times, as a safe-\\nguard against accident, that he must see that the valves\\non the rolling barrel are in working order previous to\\nloading the barrel. These valves should be adjusted to\\nopen at a pressure of 40 pounds. If by reason of a leak\\nin any part in the barrel gas is not generated the work\\nwill not tin properly. Do not approach the barrel with a\\nlight at any time when the gas is escaping, or at any time\\nwhen the gas is being generated in the barrel. If after\\nstopping the barrel it is found that the valves leak, as\\nthey may from becoming clogged, stop the leak, as the\\nsolution will escape, allowing the work to oxidize. Badly\\noxidized castings will not tin. The solution contained\\nin tank F, Fig. 33, is calculated to remove a light oxide.\\nbut castings that are heavily oxidized must be rerolled.\\nCOATING THE CASTINGS W^ITII TIN.\\nThe tin in the kettles being at the proper heat for the\\nwork in hand, as specified later on, the operator takes a\\nsmall quantity of the castings from the storage tank C.\\nFig. 33, and places them in the wire basket designated A\\nin Fig. 13, taking care to place those having concave sides,\\nholes or depressions so that none of the various solutions\\nthrough which they are now to pass will be retained.\\nThe castings contained in the wire basket must now be\\nimmersed in the solution of caustic soda or potash, re-\\nferred to in connection with the treatment for greasy,\\nhard or lead faced castings, which solution is contained in\\ntank D, Fig. 33. This solution must be kept at the boil-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "84 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\ning point, and from one to two minutes is sufficient time\\nto leave the castings in. The best plan for heating this\\nsolution is to have a steam coil in the bottom of the tank,\\nas shown in the illustration, and to allow the exhaust steam\\nto pass into the rinsing tank, which is placed directly be-\\nside it, as shown in the ground plan. The rinsing tank\\nis designated E in Fig. ;^7,. After the castings have stood\\nin the alkali bath contained in tank D the desired time\\nthey are placed in the rinsing tank E until all traces of\\nthat solution are removed. This will take the fraction of\\na minute provided a stream of water is kept flowing into\\nthe tank, as it should be.\\nThe next move is to immerse the castings in a very\\nweak solution of muriatic acid and water, i part acid to\\n40 of water. The castings must not be allowed to stand\\nin this solution more than two or three seconds. The tank\\nto contain this solution is designated as F in Fig.\\nNext place the castings in the tank G, Fig. which\\ncontains muriate of zinc, to which has been added 5\\npounds of gray granulated sal ammoniac for every gallon\\nof the muriate. jMuriate of zinc is made by dissolving\\nzinc in muriatic acid, allowing the acid to dissolve all the\\nzinc it will. For the purpose of making this cut acid an\\nearthen crock can be employed, or an oil barrel sawed in\\nhalf will answer the purpose.\\nThe castings are now ready to be immersed in the\\nmolten tin contained in the first kettle and shown in Fig.\\n33 at H. The tin in this kettle should attain a heat of\\n500 degrees F., and this heat should be maintained during\\nthe time the kettle is in use.\\nBefore immersing the castings in this kettle the sur-\\nface of the tin should be covered by a flux made by boil-\\ning a quantity of the muriate of zinc on top of the molten", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 85\\ntin, and adding quickly to the boiling mass a quantity\\nof white granulated sal ammoniac. The sal ammoniac\\nmust be added by sprinkling it on before the acid is evap-\\norated by the heat of the tin. It will take a little time\\nand experience before the proper consistency of this flux\\ncan be attained. The proper combination of this flux\\nis one of the most essential points in the successful coat-\\ning of the cast iron in this first kettle of tin. If the flux\\nis allowed to become hard and dry, as it soon will by con-\\ntinued use unless careful and constant attention is given\\nto it, the flux will adhere to the castings as they pass\\nthrough it into the tin below, and thereby prevent them\\nfrom coating.\\nWhen it is found that the flux is becoming thick and\\nlumpy add a sufficient quantity of the muriate of zinc and\\npowdered sal ammoniac to cause the flux to boil up to a\\ndepth of y2 inch or more. When this result is obtained\\ntake a perforated iron skimmer and carefully remove any\\nhard lumps and congealed matter remaining in the flux,\\nallowing such as readily pass through the skimmer to re-\\nmain in the kettle. The purpose of this flux is to pre-\\nvent the surface of the tin from becoming oxidized by\\nexposure to the air, and also to prevent the hot metal\\nfrom spattering and burning the operator when the wet\\ncastings come in contact with the tin. Keep carefully in\\nmind that this flux must at all times be kept in a thin\\nliquid condition, otherwise the succeeding operations\\nthrough which the castings are to pass before they are\\ncompleted will be unsuccessful.\\nIn placing the castings in this first kettle of tin care\\nshould be taken to get them immersed as soon as possible.\\nIf they are allowed to float on the surlace of the tin the\\nmuriate of zinc with which they are wet (for the purpose", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "86 GALVANIZING. AND TINNING.\\nof causing the tin to adhere) will dry off, and the tin will\\nnot adhere to that part of the casting left exposed. The\\nwork must be kept below the surface of the tin until it\\nhas become as hot as the tin itself, and until the tin has\\nceased to bubble or to be agitated by the castings that are\\nimmersed. This boiling or agitation will cease when the\\nair is expelled from the iron and the flux that adhered to\\nit as it passed through has risen to the surface of the tin\\nagain.\\nThe proper way to immerse the work in this first ket-\\ntle of tin is to rest the handle of the basket containing it\\non the edge of the tin kettle, elevating the basket at an\\nangle that will prevent it touching the molten tin until the\\noperator is ready to have it. Cant the basket so that one\\nof the lower corners will enter the tin first in other words,\\ndo not allow the bottom of the basket to come directly onto\\nthe surface of the tin, as the effect of having so much wet\\nmetal as the bottom of the basket presents come in con-\\ntact with the molten tin will be an explosion, resulting\\nmost likely in the serious injury of the operator or any\\none standing near. When the basket is in the described\\nposition lower it carefully until i inch or 2 inches of the\\nbottom and one side is immersed in the tin, then lower\\nrapidly, but steadily, until the basket and its contents are\\ncompletely immersed.\\nAt this point turn the basket completely over, bottom\\nup, and, using the edge of the tin kettle as a rest for the\\nhandle, lift the basket from the tin. When the basket is\\nfree turn it bottom down and use it in that position to\\nkeep the castings it contained below the surface of the tin.\\nFill the kettle as full of castings as it will hold and allow\\nthem to be completely immersed. Several of the wire", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "TINNING. ^7\\nbaskets may be employed to insure having a batch ready\\nto immerse wlien the previous one is disposed of.\\nIt sometimes happens that the operator carelessly omits\\ndipping- the work in the cut acid contained in tank G, Fig.\\nthat is, he may attempt to immerse the work in the\\nmolten tin directly from tank D, E or F. Such neglect is\\ndangerous and likely to be attended with serious results to\\nthe operator, from the hot metal spattering.\\nThere are many kinds of work that may be strung on\\nwires and handled through the different stages without\\nthe use of the wire baskets. When wires are used the\\nshape may be varied to suit conditions. While we show\\nthe most common in Fig. 13, the ingenuity of the operator\\nmust be employed in selecting those best adapted to his\\nwants and in devising others for himself.\\nThe kettle being full as described, the castings must\\nremain where they are from 5 to 15 minutes, or until they\\nhave taken a perfect coating of tin. If in this time they\\nare not properly coated, some error has been committed in\\nthe previous operations and the work must be reroUed.\\nWhat dross or slag forms in a tin kettle rises to the\\nsurface. A considerable part of this objectionable matter\\nwill be found in the first kettle, which must be removed\\nbefore the work can be carried to the finishing kettle or\\nkettles. To accomplish the removal of this dross or slag,\\nfloating on the surface of the tin, use a perforated, concave\\niron skimmer. The holes in the skimmer should be large\\nenough to allow the clear tin to flow through freely, and\\ncare should be taken not to waste the flux in skimming out\\nthe dross. If the skimmer is canted edgewise as soon as\\nthe clear tin passes off the slag will adhere to the skimmer\\nand the flux will flow back into the kettle.\\nWhen all the slag has been removed grasp one of the", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "88 GALVANTZTNG AND TINNING.\\ncastings with a pair of tongs and remove it with a quick\\nmotion from the tin. If wires have been employed and\\nthe work is strung, take one or more wires and remove in\\nthe same way to the next kettle, taking care that no flux or\\ndross is carried along with the work. The temperature\\nof the tin in the first kettle is much too high for finishing\\nthe work, and when the castings that are taken from this\\nfirst kettle are exposed to the air they will be more or less\\nyellow, depending on the heat of the tin. A bright yellow\\nor golden color indicates too high a heat of the tin and\\nmust be avoided. A slight yellowish tinge indicates the\\nproper heat.\\nThe tin in the second kettle, which is designated in Fig.\\n33 as K, and which is, in most cases, the finishing kettle,\\nmust be maintained at a temperature of about 400 degrees\\nF., and the surface kept covered to the depth of from to\\nI inch with pure beef tallow. Palm oil may be introduced\\ninto the tallow with good results, using of the latter about\\n10 per cent. The operator retains the castings held by the\\ntongs or wires immersed in this second kettle one or two\\nseconds and then, with the tongs held in the left hand, he\\nremoves the piece from the tin. As soon as the piece is\\nclear of the tin the operator grasps it with a pair of tongs\\nheld in the right hand, and with a few rapid swinging\\nmotions to free the article from surplus tin, he plunges it\\ninto a tank containing kerosene oil. If wires are being\\nemployed he swings the work to and fro rapidly to free it\\nfrom the surplus tin, and when plunging it into the oil he\\nmust give the work a motion calculated to prevent the\\narticles in contact from adhering to each other.\\nThe tank, which is designated in Fig, 33 as L, in con-\\nnection with a companion tank M, should be of sheet iron\\nand placed in the companion tank M with a view to having", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 89\\na body of water surrounding it to keep the oil from becom-\\ning heated, as it soon would be from the hot castings\\nconstantly immersed in it. The work must be immersed\\nin this oil long enough to set the tin and then immersed in\\nthe cold water contained in the companion tank M.\\nIf the tin in this last or finishing kettle is at the right\\ntemperature the work will be white and have a nice luster\\nafter it is cooled. If the work is rough and lumpy it indi-\\ncates that the tin in the finishing kettle was not hot enough\\nor that the work was kept in the air too long a time before\\ndipping it in the oil. The tin in the finishing kettle\\nrequires very little fire to be maintained as there will be\\nnearly enough heat in the castings when they come from\\nthe first kettle to keep the tin in the second at a proper\\nheat. If the work is yellow after cooling in the oil, it may\\nindicate too high a heat in the finishing kettle, or it may\\nindicate that the casting was not kept in the finishing ket-\\ntle long enough to bring the heat that the casting attained\\nin the first kettle down to a point where the tin would not\\nbe yellow.\\nThe work will come out of the finishing kettle smoothly\\nand brightly coated even when the temperature of that\\nkettle is so low that if a piece of cold iron be put in the tin\\nwould adhere to it in a mass. The heat the castings attain\\nin the first kettle makes it possible to run the finishing\\nkettle at a very low temperature and it is desirable to do so\\non very heavy castings. Light castings require, of course,\\nthat a much higher heat be maintained in the finishing\\nkettle than is necessary on heavy castings. The reason is\\napparent Light castings must be exposed to the air a few\\nseconds while the operator is switching ofif the surplus tin,\\nand being light, they, of course, do not hold the heat long", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "90 GALVANIZING AND TINNING.\\nenough to allow the surplus tin to be shaken off without\\nleaving rough, ragged edges.\\nA great deal of ingenuity can be displayed by the\\noperator in handling castings of various shapes in such a\\nway that no lumps or bunches of tin will remain on the\\nwork after it is cooled. For example, in grasping the\\narticle to be cooled care should be used to find what part\\nof the casting is best adapted to be taken hold of by the\\ncooling tongs without marks of the tongs being left after\\nthe article is cooled. The tongs used for cooling should\\nnever be put into the tin kettle, as the heat of the casting\\nwould cause it to adhere to the tongs if they were tinned.\\nAfter shaking off the surplus tin change the position of\\nthe casting so that the drop of tin, which will naturally col-\\nlect at the lowest point, will flow back ontiD the casting and\\ndip in the oil at once when this is s.ccomplished.\\nA switching box should be employed when\\nstrung work is being handled to catch the tin that is\\nthrown from the work in the operation of switching\\nit to throw off the surplus tin. This box is a very simple\\narrangement. Its position when in use is designated D,\\nFig. 25. Cover the interior of the box with heavy paper,\\nas the hot tin will stick to the wood unless paper is used.\\nThe tin thus collected may be thrown into the kettle\\ntogether with the paper when the tin is needed for use.\\nWhen the castings have been finally cooled as already\\ndescribed, they should be immersed in a tank of boiling\\nwater to free them from oil and also to remove any trace\\nof acid that may be on them. This final rinsing tank is\\ndesignated X in Fig. 33. The water must be kept clean\\nand at the boiling point at all times when in use. An\\nordinary foundry riddle with upright handles long enough\\nto allow the operator to set the riddle, with the work to be", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 91\\ntreated, into the tank without scalding his hands, may be\\nemployed to immerse the work in this tank.\\nThe castings should be dried off in clean dry sawdust,\\nand for this purpose use sawdust made from pine or some\\nsoft wood, as hardwood sawdust will scratch the tinned\\nsurface. The drying box is shown at O in Fig.\\nWhen three kettles of tin are employed, as they may be\\nto good advantage in tinning work that is designed to be\\nplated, the second kettle must be run at a temperature of\\n450 degrees F. The surface of the tin in this kettle must\\nbe kept covered with an acid and sal ammoniac flux the\\nsame as the first kettle. The castings in the first kettle are\\nto be passed in quantities to the second kettle, there to re-\\nmain until the first kettle is refilled. The same care must\\nbe taken not to allow any of the slag or flux that accumu-\\nlates on the first kettle passing with the work to the second\\nkettle, and the tin in the second kettle must be kept free\\nfrom slag.\\nThe tin in the third or finishing kettle should be main-\\ntained at a temperature of 400 degrees F., and the depth\\nof the tallow increased to 3 or 4 inches.\\nIf three kettles are employed they should be square or\\nround and arranged to fire from one side, instead of at\\nthe ends.\\nThe water in storage tank C. Fig. will in a short\\ntime become charged with the acid solution from the roll-\\ning barrel unless it is changed frequently. If much acid\\nis present in the water it will impair the alkali solution\\ninto which the castings pass directly from the storage\\ntank. If a few pounds of the alkali selected for use\\n(caustic soda or soda ash) is added two or three times a\\nweek the alkali will do its work properly for some time,\\nalthough it is best to clean out the tank and make the solu-", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "92 GALVANIZING AND TINNING,\\ntion Up fresh once in two weeks w^here it is in constant\\nuse.\\nIn rinsing the castings in tank E, Fig. 33, do not let\\nthem remain in a great length of time if water is flowing\\nin, as iron will soon rust in running water. The solution\\nin tank F, Fig. 33, should be made up fresh after 2 or\\n3 tons of iron has passed through it, and, as already stated,\\nthe castings should not be allowed to stand in this solution\\nmore than two or three seconds.\\nThe solution of muriate of zinc contained in tank G,\\nFig. 33, should be deep enough to cover the castings con-\\ntained in the wire basket used to immerse them in the\\nfirst kettle, and the solution should be kept in good con-\\ndition that is, care should be taken not to allow it to be\\nweakened to any great extent by the solution in tank F\\npassing into it with the work. The tank containing this\\nmuriate of zinc should be lead lined and an inner lining\\nof wood used to protect the lead lining.\\nAs it is almost impossible to make castings that have\\nbeen imperfectly coated at the first attempt take a satis-\\nfactory coating of tin, the operator should give careful\\nattention to details.\\nIt is possible by practice to keep the tin at a proper\\nheat, but the operator will find more difficulty in doing\\nthis than any other one thing in the entire operation. That\\nthe proper heat be maintained is very essential, for if it is\\nnot, all previous care in preparing the iron will have been\\nin vain. If too hot the flux on the first kettle of tin will\\nevaporate or burn off, and the tin will not take to the iron.\\nIf too high a heat is reached on the kettle containing the\\ntallow, tl e tallow will be set on fire. As a help to a nov-\\nice and, in fact, to an experienced man, we recommend\\nthe use of a pyrometer, one for each kettle. The expense", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "TINNING. 93\\nof providing them is not to be considered in comparison\\nwith the advantages obtained.\\nThe kettles for containing the tin may be, and usually\\nare, of cast iron, although fire box steel is often employed\\nto make oblong kettles.\\nA floor space of 20 x 40 feet will accommodate a tin-\\nning plant running two rolling barrels. If possible, the\\nplant should be located handy to power and with a view\\nto obtaming easy and perfect drainage. If necessity com-\\npels the setting up of the plant in the factory building\\nabove the ground floor, as is sometimes the case, the floor\\nof the tinning room must be so constructed that leakage\\ninto the room or rooms below will be prevented.\\nThe dross or slag formed in the kettles should be\\nstored away until a suflicicnt amount is accumulated to\\nmake profitable the remelting of the slag for the purpose\\nof reclaiming what pure tin is in it. For the purpose of\\nremelting this dross the pure tin can be removed from\\nthe kettle H, Fig. 33, and the dross melted up in it. When\\nthe entire mass is in a molten state, and at a temperature\\nof about 550 degree F., bail off the liquid tin into cast\\niron pans provided for that purpose, and what dross re-\\nmains into separate pans. This tin dross has a market\\nvalue of from 40 to 50 per cent, of the price of pure tin.\\nWith the addition of tanks for containing acids a\\nplant built to tin cast iron is adapted to all descriptions\\nof tinning, except retinning of tinware and the tinning of\\nsheets.", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "OCT 19 1900", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS", "height": "3498", "width": "2150", "jp2-path": "galvanizingtinni00flan_0104.jp2"}}