{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4534", "width": "2881", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "Book __-__\\nCoipglitlJ?\\nCQB3UGHT DEPOSm", "height": "4228", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4356", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4340", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4360", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "CT^CXa/v/JjC b^\\\\\\\\/^Ar\\\\\u00c2\u00bbOv^t^", "height": "4160", "width": "2852", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "Harriet\\nHubbard\\nAy er s B\\n1 o o k ^^dt\\nA Complete\\nTreatise or\\nand Au th e n t ic\\nI the Laws of\\nHEALTH BEAUTY\\nIncluding Many Carefully Tested\\nFormulas Hitherto Unpublished\\nGOOD HEALTH\\nHOW TO PRESERVE IT\\nGOOD LOOKS\\nHOW TO OBTAIN THEM\\nWith full Instructions for Physical Culture,\\nFacial, Scalp and General Massage\\nBy HARRIET\\nHUBBARD AYER\\nSuperbly\\n\u00c2\u00ab3*\\nIllustrated\\nHOME TOPICS\\nBOOK COMPANY\\n246 Fifth Avenue New York", "height": "4364", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0009.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "74876\\n|i.ii)rary of Congre^^^H)\\nTwo Copies Receiw-d i\\nNOV IS mo I\\nCopj/ right eiitr^ I\\nFIRST copy.\\n2r.d Copy Delivered! to t\\n^K\\nCopyright, 1S99, by\\nHarriet Hubbard Ayer\\nAH ris:his and translation reserved\\nEntered at Stationers Hall, Londoyi, Eng.\\nThe illustrations in this work, from orig-\\ninal drawings and photographs, are protected\\nby copyright, and their reproduction in any\\nform is unlawful and notice is hereby given\\nth^t anyone guilty of infringing the copyright\\nthereof will be dealt with as the law directs.", "height": "4364", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0010.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "2)ebication\\nHIS BOOK, which\\nhad never been\\nwritten save for\\nthe repeated demands for\\nsuch a volume, is dedicated\\nwith much affection to my\\ncountless correspondents,\\nwho are unknown to me per-\\nsonally but whose friendship\\nand confidence it is my hap-\\npiness to possess.", "height": "4364", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0011.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0012.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "ymm}\\nCHAPTER I\\nTJIJEJ WILL 0 THE WISP, BEAUTY\\nThe desire of every woman to be beautiful Her constant pur-\\nsuit through life How a woman is robbed of good looks\\nHer valiant fight against time Desire to be beautiful\\ninspired by man^ Plain women not preferred by the oppo-\\nsite sex An actual case in point Beauty the supreme\\npower of woman Maintenance of beauty after maturity\\nmeans purity and temperance Women should not always\\nbe satisfied with Nature.\\nPAGE\\n35\\nCHAPTER II\\nTHE ART OF REMAINING YOUNG\\nAge a matter of feeling, not of years Some famous women who\\nhave kept their beauty long past middle life Two modern\\ninstances Women under thirty need not grow old\\nThose fifty and over may recover their beauty No virtue\\nin plainness The world s most beautiful women have been\\nalso the most powerful Beauty and goodness should walk\\nhand in hand No royal road to beauty Care and com-\\nmon sense alone required Good housekeepers often neg-\\nlect themselves Women under thirty need no cosmetics\\nThose older fully justified in their use\\n(5)\\n41", "height": "4364", "width": "2756", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0013.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "6 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER III\\nTHE 8IN OF BOWDINESS\\nPAGE\\nDanger of drifting into dowdiness Some women never look well\\ndressed The dowd not confined to any station in life\\nAfter marriage many women neglect their personal appear-\\nance Dowdy wives in danger of losing their husbands\\nA grave mistake for a woman to neglect her looks Almost\\ncriminal in a married woman Peace and happiness of the\\nwhole family may be involved Lack of time not a valid\\nexcuse Less important things may well be neglected, if\\nnecessary Few women need be plain looking Virtue and\\nloveliness Depraved women never truly lovely. 50\\nCHAPTER IV\\nTHE WELL-GROOMED WOMAN\\nWhat the expression means Cosmetics not a factor The bath\\na prime requisite The hair, face, hands and apparel\\nMiddle-aged women, especially, should be well groomed\\nAn example in support of this statement A woman of\\nfifty who made herself look young A husband s suscepti-\\nbility at forty-five Effect of tailor-made gowns and pretty\\napparel A fresh and wholesome appearance quite as at-\\ntractive Dress alone not the touchstone The author s\\nown experience Satisfaction derived from an observance\\nof hygienic rules. 57\\nCHAPTER V\\nCLEANLLNESS THE HAND 31 AID OF HEALTH\\n4.ND BEAUTY\\nAny woman may retain her good looks How she may defy the\\nyears to come and collect interest on her past Cleanli-\\nness next to Godliness What it means to be clean\\nThe bondage of soap and water a blessing The transfer-", "height": "4364", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0014.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS\\nPAGE\\nmation of plain, sallow, bad-complexioned women Meaning\\nof a real hygienic bath Value of the fleshbrush and face\\nscrubbing brush About pure soap Expense not worth\\nconsidering Tepid and hot baths Friction after the bath\\nBenefits from sea bathing. .64\\nCHAPTER VI\\nCLEANLINESS THE HANDMAID OF HEALTH\\nAND BEAUTY\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nMore about the bath Bran and almond-meal bags Recipe for\\nhome manufacture A fragrant bath liquid Best time to\\ntake a bath Temperature of the bath Special efficacy of\\nhot baths Sara Bernhardt on the value of hot water\\nMore about pure soap A delicious bath perfume Hun-\\ngary water and aromatic vinegar How to make the flesh\\nfirm and smooth The Turkish bath Value of the sweat-\\ning and scrubbing process Sulphur baths How to take\\na sulphur bath at home The electric bath Aromatic\\nbaths for nervous women The beauty bath The gelatine\\nbath Bath of the aristocracy Even age is charming when\\nclean and wholesome 71\\nCHAPTER VII\\nTHE HAIB\\nIts structure and growth When it will reproduce itself The\\nsure proof of baldness How the quantity, quality and\\ntexture of the hair are governed Vigorous circulation nec-\\nessary to luxuriant hair Lack of care the chief reason for\\nfalling hair Necessity for cleanliness, ventilation and fric-\\ntion About washing the hair Causes of unhealthy hair\\nHarmful hair restorers and tonics Gray hair in men\\nand women Beneficial results from scalp massage The\\nelectric brush for scalp circulation The coloring matter of\\nthe hair Why the hair changes color. 86", "height": "4364", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0015.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "8 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER VIII\\nTHE HAIR Continued\\nPAGE\\nThe use of peroxide of hydrogen The bondage of golden hair\\nBleached hair never permanent Why the roots will not\\nbleach Method of applying peroxide Danger of using\\nammonia Skill necessary in properly applying peroxide\\nHow to get back the original color How to make lifeless\\nhair bright Treatment not adapted to the eyebrows How\\nto produce Titian red with peroxide Homemade hair dyes\\nnot advised A once famous dye. 92\\nCHAPTER IX\\nTHE HAIE\u00e2\u0080\u0094Conti7iued\\nAffections of the hair Dandruff the result of uncleanliness\\nLotion for excessive scurf To keep the hair and scalp\\nhealthy Scrupulous cleanliness necessary A shampoo for\\ndandruff How to cleanse the scalp Eczema of the scalp\\nRemedies for falling hair The Jabarondi tonic Treat-\\nment for falling hair after fever Castor-oil hair tonic\\nOn loosening the hair at night Care of children s hair\\nForeign remedies for falling hair. 101\\nCHAPTER X\\nTHE HAIR\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nSuperfluous hair The mortification of women with beards and\\nmoustaches Electrolysis the only certain cure Depila-\\ntories only a temporary remedy How disfiguring facial\\ndefects were once considered The case of Charity Ross\\nAn effective and harmless depilatory How to remove su-\\nperfluous hair from the arms Hair on the arms may be\\nbleached with peroxide of hydrogen .107", "height": "4364", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0016.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 9\\nCHAPTER XI\\nTHE HAIR\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nPAGE\\nLovelocks of the summer maid Desirability of curling hair\\nArtificial methods for making the hair wavy Curling fluids\\nrarely satisfactory Rubber curlers or curling iron prefer-\\nable Recipe for curline Hair curled to last three weeks\\nDescription of the process Secretage or permanent curl-\\ning fluid Process highly objectionable .113\\nCHAPTER XII\\nSCALP MASSAGE\\nTroubles with the hair which are incident to defective scalp circu-\\nlation Scalp massage an excellent means to restore circu-\\nlation Instructions regarding the treatment How to\\nrelieve a nervous headache Scalp massage for congestive\\nheadaches Why men and women lose their hair How\\nto brush the hair Scalp massage for baldness and falling\\nhair Danger of choosing an unskilled operator. 121\\nCHAPTER XIII\\nTHE COMPLEXION\\nMost American women have poor skins Few complexions are\\nfree from blemishes Amount annually spent for cosmetics\\nin the United States The pastry habit Evil effect of\\ntoo much saleratus -Value of bread-and-milk luncheons\\nPrevalence of pimples Fossati Cream for pimples How\\nto treaty muddy and pimply skins Sulphur soap for pim-\\nples. 125\\nCHAPTER XIV\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nFreckles General comment on these disfiguring blemishes\\nAll skin troubles curable in the absence of hereditary ail-", "height": "4364", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0017.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "10 CONTENTS\\nPAGE\\nment Freckles not unclean like blackheads or pimples\\nThe two classes of freckles Summer freckles Cold or\\nwinter freckles Frequent bathing, scrubbing and rough\\nfriction for summer freckles A simple additional remedy\\nAn accompanying lotion The Medical Record s remedy\\nfor obstinate freckles Special ointment to be used in con-\\njunction with the latter The hydrozone and glycozone\\ntreatment Softening unguent for chapped face Lotion\\nfor dry and scaly skin Tan and sunburn Moth patches\\nFormula for face bleach 129\\nCHAPTER XV\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nAbout blackheads A form of acne Each speck marks an ob-\\nstructed gland outlet The black speck simply dirt Pa-\\nrasitic character of blackheads Danger in forcibly removing\\nblackheads Can be easily cured with proper treatment\\nHow to proceed Treatment for obstinate blackheads A\\nnew remedy for blackheads Various forms of acne Con-\\nfluent acne Acne indurata Value of face scrubbing in\\nacne Treatment applies to men also Acne molluscum\\nTreatment for acne molluscum. 137\\nCHAPTER XVI\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nEczema and skin eruptions Any eruption fatal to beauty\\nCleanliness the most important requisite The process of\\nskin decay and reproduction The consequence of congested\\npores The most stubborn cases of skin diseases yield to\\ncleansing and friction Case of a young Swedish girl\\nRemarks on eczema Even inherited skin disease may be\\npalliated General treatment in eczema Dr. Cazenave s\\nremedy Dr. Monin s lotion Dr. Cooley s treatment\\nEczema ointment 142", "height": "4364", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0018.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 11\\nCHAPTER XVII\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nPAGE\\nThe flirtatious washrag Few women know how to properly\\nwash their faces A face-washing class The old and the\\nnew way Scientific natural method for keeping the pores\\nfree How the average gentlewoman washes her face\\nHow to really free the skin from impurities The thorough\\nscrub with hot water, soap and a brush The soap itself to\\nbe carefully rinsed off Face steaming Danger in the\\nprocess Hot cloths considered more efficacious Lotion to\\nbe used after face steaming. 151\\nCHAPTER XVIII\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nTechnical description of a wrinkle All wrinkles do not indicate\\nage An unerring record of the past They tell of good\\nand bad attributes The countenance reflects the character\\nLines which reveal the gossip, the talker, the malicious,\\ncynical and fretful woman Wrinkles reflecting tempera-\\nment hard to remove General treatment for wrinkles\\nAttention to diet of great importance Effectiveness of\\nproperly administered massage Electricity an excellent\\nadjunct Tissue building often required Formula for skin\\nfood 157\\nCHAPTER XIX\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nSwedish system the only reliable and lasting method Relaxed\\nfacial muscles must be built up Services of a skillful\\nmasseur necessary Knowledge of anatomy indispensable\\nGeneral observations on massage Explanation of the\\nvarious motions How to remove a droop in the eyelid\\nTo correct laughing wrinkles The several facial muscles\\nWhat causes sunken cheeks To obliterate lines of care\\nHow to treat the neck and throat Treatment not un-\\npleasant. 170", "height": "4364", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0019.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "12 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XX\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nPAGE\\nThe gentle art of face skinning ^Description of the process\\nProbably originated with the Greeks An extremely pain-\\nful operation Attended with some danger The treat-\\nment very expensive Improvement in appearance un-\\nquestionable All lines of character obliterated About\\nbirthmarks Their removal possible in many cases Dis-\\nfiguring scars may also be wholly or partially r emoved. 182\\nCHAPTER XXI\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nThe summer girl The hot season need not be especially trying\\nto the complexion A few simple precautions necessary\\nThe daily bath an essential A lotion for tan Cucumber\\ncream Effect of too much meat and starchy food For-\\nmula for soap paste for the skin Beauty cream Milk\\nvinegar A simple summer lotion Strawberries and spinach\\nfor the complexion. 190\\nCHAPTER XXII\\nTHE EYES AND EYEBBOWS\\nThe eye a telltale of the soul Protuberant and sunken eyes\\nmay be corrected Dull eyes may be made lustrous with-\\nout drugs or cosmetics The use of eye beautifiers con-\\ndemned Lotion for granulated lids Wash for inflamed\\neyes An eye brightener About clipping the eyebrows\\nCrossed and squinting eyes easily curable Formulas for\\neye wash Beauty s eyebrows Heavy eyebrows an index\\nof vitality To remove superfluous hairs Toilet of the\\neyebrows To correct broad and bushy eyebrows To ar-\\nrest falling eyebrows Cosmetic for darkening the eye-\\nbrows Electrical treatment. 197", "height": "4364", "width": "2984", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0020.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 13\\nCHAPTER XXIII\\nTHE JSfOSE\\nPAGE\\nRed noses generally the result of excess or carelessness Rela-\\ntion between the stomach and nose Hot water a valuable\\nremedy Influenza, Rose Fever and Hay Fever The hydro-\\nzone and glycozone treatment Syrup for an itching nose\\nAromatic bath with massage Treatment for shiny and\\noily noses Straightening deformed and ill-shaped noses\\nRed veins on the nose Bleeding at the nose Treat-\\nment for a swollen nose. 206\\nCHAPTER XXIV\\nTHE EAR\\nDimensions of the perfect ear Mothers and nurses often to blame\\nfor deformed ears Treatment for outstanding ears Pierc-\\ning the ears reprehensible Danger attending the operation\\nEczema of the ear Ointment for eczema of the ear\\nFormula for Duval s earache cure To remove hardened\\ncerumen How to cleanse the ear Treatment for black-\\nheads in the outer ear To remove insects from the ear. 216\\nCHAPTER XXV\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH\\nThe perfect mouth Influence of the mouth and teeth on personal\\nbeauty The age of wonderful dentistry Antiseptic wash\\nfor offensive breath Hydrozone and glycozone for catarrhal\\nbreath Pocket pastilles Treatment of the teeth Care\\nof the baby teeth How to brush the teeth Tooth powders\\nFormula for too abundant salivation The habit of gri-\\nmacing in children Massage for drooping corners of the\\nmouth Crown fillings Wash for receding gums For-\\nmula for the famous Eau Botot ointment for cold sores and\\nfever blisters Myrrh and borax mouth w^ash 221", "height": "4364", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0021.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "14 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XXVI\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH \u00e2\u0080\u0094Continued\\nPAGE\\nAbsolutely clean teeth never decay Value of smooth tooth sur-\\nfaces Tooth polishing Hardening the tooth structure\\nThe use of formalin Preventative measures and destruction\\nof germs How stained and discolored teeth maybe whitened\\nHow crowded teeth may be remedied How crooked and\\nmisshapen teeth may be straightened Display of gold to\\nbe avoided Porcelain inlays Artificial teeth Value of\\nskillful dentistry 231\\nCHAPTER XXVII\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nThe wonders of modern dentistry Fine teeth a prime requisite\\nto beauty How a tooth once extracted can be made to grow\\nagain Tooth implantation Details of the operation A\\nrecent successful case Replantation and transplantation of\\nthe teeth The most remarkable achievement of dental sur-\\ngery Operation not long nor painful. 237\\nCHAPTER XXVIII\\nTHE ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST\\nPhysical culture for skinny and bony arms Lumpy arm of the\\nathletic girl The beautiful arm Calisthenics Treatment\\nfor those who are too thin To improve rough skin Lotion\\nGiannini Massage for thin arms Lotion for whitening the\\narms To remove superfluous hair on the arms Delcroix s\\npoudre subtile Massage for relaxed muscles Treatment\\nfor a flabby throat Voice culture for scrawny throats. 243", "height": "4364", "width": "2936", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0022.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 15\\nCHAPTER XXIX\\nTHE ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST \u00e2\u0080\u0094Concluded\\nPAGE\\nAverage measurements of a finely-formed woman Development\\nof the bust Danger of using the glass cup ^The Kisch\\ntreatment to reduce the breasts Treatment for bust devel-\\nopment Compressed oxygen gas To make the busts firm\\nLinen collars and pretty necks Massage to counteract\\nthe effect of wearing stiff collars Formula for removing\\nyellow stains under the collar 252\\nCHAPTER XXX\\nTHE PERFECT WOMAN\\nHeight should be eight times the length of the head How the\\nheight should be divided proportionately Proper propor-\\ntions in width List of requirements for the perfect woman\\nA woman may be remarkably attractive without exactly\\nconforming to a fixed standard Importance of cleanliness,\\nneatness and fastidious care in the matters of the toilet 258\\nCHAPTER XXXI\\nTHE CORSET\\nThe cultivated waist The artistic standard for the waist The\\nwasp waist and the ailments of women The evils of tight\\nlacing A squeezed waist not pretty Healthful way to\\nattain a slender waist Effect of tight lacing on the nervous\\nsystem The average woman requires a corset It should\\nbe well fitting and properly constructed What a proper\\ncorset will do for the figure Harm done by tight lacing\\noften entailed on a future generation 269", "height": "4364", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0023.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "PAGE\\n16 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XXXII\\nTHE HAND\\nNo woman s hand barred from some degree of beauty Importance\\nof early care of children s hands Rough hands often the\\nresult of carelessness Pure soap only should be used^\\nAmadine for the hands Honey paste for softening the\\nhands Lotion for chapped hands Wash for itching of the\\nhands The Sitts method of manicure The proper mani-\\ncure set Remedy for profuse perspiration of the hands\\nTreatment for chilblains Indigestion and red hands. 278\\nCHAPTER XXXIII\\nTHE HAND\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nHow to have soft, pretty hands Scrupulous cleanliness necessary\\nSkin food for the hands Almond paste How to whiten\\nthe hands Cocoa cream cerate How to be your own\\nmanicure Simple implements and little time necessary\\nSharp instruments should not be used How to care for the\\nskin around the nails Details of the process of manicuring\\nFormula for nail powder and rose paste To remove\\nwarts Miscellaneous hints on the hands 289\\nCHAPTER XXXIV\\nTHE EOOT AND FOOT GEAR\\nThe Cinderella foot not the fashion The foot should be in\\nproportion to the frame it supports The former test of\\nfoot perfection Few women over thirty have perfect feet\\nHope for the rising generation The Trilby foot\\nHarmony makes beauty When the female foot attains its\\nnormal size The average size of the female foot Requi-\\nsites of the truly beautiful foot The foot according to\\nFlaxraan and the Greek models 298", "height": "4364", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0024.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 17\\nCHAPTER XXXV\\nTHE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Concluded\\nPAGE\\nThe common -sense shoe Evils of wearing the high French\\nheels Du Manner s missionary work Toilet of the feet\\nThorough cleanliness requisite How to cut the nails\\nHow to correct crooked nails Advice regarding ingrow-\\ning nails About narrow shoes Result of tight shoes not\\nalways immediate Cures for corns Tender feet Patent\\nleather condemned Cold feet Profuse perspiration and\\nits remedy Bunions Services of pedicure advised Re-\\ncent wholesome improvement in foot gear Broad foot-\\nform shoes the fashion. 302\\nCHAPTER XXXVI\\nFOOT MASSAGE\\nA wonderful relief for tired feet Beneficial for feet that have\\nbeen improperly shod An expert masseuse not required\\nLotion to be used before massage Detailed explanation\\nof the process Proper treatment of a corn after cutting\\nPoints to be heeded in fitting a shoe Enlarged joints\\nSo called magic cures should be avoided Hints re-\\ngarding care of the feet 312\\nCHAPTER XXXVII\\nLATE HOURS AND DISSIPATION\\nPaying the price Abstinence of our grandmothers Influence\\nof Europeans on American sobriety The drinking woman\\nGeography of a dissipated woman s face The demands\\nof society Why the personal charms of society women so\\nquickly fade A typical example from the author s personal\\nexperience A still sadder case Excess fatal to beauty,\\nhappiness and morality A cheerful sign of the times\\nExcess in tea and coffee drinking. 320", "height": "4364", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0025.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "18 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XXXVIII\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE\\nPAGE\\nImportance of daily exercise Value of gymnastics About deep\\nbreathing Few people breathe properly Deep breathing\\nshould be developed into a habit The author s system\\nGymnastics remedy many physical defects Value of calis-\\nthenics for growing girls Boudoir gymnastics recommended\\nNo apparatus necessary A schedule of exercises 327\\nCHAPTER XXXIX\\nPHYSICAL CULTUBE Continued\\nThe Swedish or Ling system of calisthenics Details of the dif-\\nferent movements Vigorous work necessary Exhaustion\\nshould be avoided Good ventilation an essential Dress\\nshould be loose and light Special value of apparatus\\nDumb-bell exercises to build up the chest The movements\\nin detail Flat-chested girls Round-shouldered women 339\\nCHAPTER XL\\nPHYSICAL CULT URE Continued\\nWhere women need strength Abdominal exercise and hip-reduc-\\ntion The rigid waist How to attain an elegant walk and\\ncarriage Special exercises in detail ^^Movement for straight-\\nening the shoulders and developing the bust An exercise\\nfor general suppleness How to fill out thin and scrawny\\nthroats The movements in detail Grace and health\\ngained by running. .350\\nCHAPTER XLI\\nPHYSICAL C ULTURE Concluded\\nSwimming for girls and women How to learn without a master\\nA healthful and desirable accomplishment Artificial aids\\nshould be avoided Only a few simple rules to be observed", "height": "4380", "width": "2936", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0026.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 19\\nPAGE\\nFirst attempt at a stroke How to tread water How to\\nlearn to float Bathing costumes What to do in case of\\ncramps and vertigo How to rescue the drowning and re-\\nstore consciousness. 360\\nCHAPTER XLII\\nSOW TO SLEEP\\nTlie right way and the wrong Sleep one of the most important\\nfunctions of life Too little time given to rest Lack of\\nsleep quickly destroys health and vigor Ample repose\\nnecessary to the preservation of female beauty Hints about\\nsleeping room and beds The right way to lie The best\\nposition for promoting health and a fine figure 373\\nCHAPTER XLIII\\nBEAUTY AND HEALTH FOR THE JBUSLRES8\\nWOMAJSr\\nImportance of good looks in business Best-looking applicants\\ngenerally get the positions Elaborate dressing out of place\\nThe proper make-up A contented spirit should be cul-\\ntivated Regular exercise not to be neglected Hints for\\nthe toilet Importance of the toilet on retiring A sepa-\\nrate sleeping room highly desirable Should have ten hours\\nsleep, if possible 374\\nCHAPTER XLIV\\nMOTHER AND CHLLD\\nMaternity the holiest mission of woman Importance to the off-\\nspring of moral and physical health in the mother Hints\\nabout the newborn child The first bath Dressing the\\nnavel Use of the flannel bellybancl Simple clothing for\\nthe little one Newborn babies need no artificial food\\nCare in the choice of a wet nurse The best artificial milk\\nGeneral rules for feeding Schedule of diet for babies\\nbrought up by hand 379\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 2", "height": "4364", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0027.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "20 CONTENTS\\nCHAPTER XLV\\nMOTHER AND CHILD\u00e2\u0080\u0094 ConcUded\\nPAGE\\nWeaning the baby Sterilization of milk Bathing and dressing\\nHow to carry a baby Powder no longer used in the\\nbaby s toilet The sometimes capricious stomach Baby s\\naccomplishments Weights and measurements Baby s\\ngood looks The ears The nose The head The mouth\\nand teeth General hints 389\\nCHAPTER XLVI\\nHOW TO READ CHARACTER FROM THE FEATURES\\nThe face as a whole must be considered The rosebud mouth\\nThe conceited mouth The gossip s mouth The mouth of\\ntruthfulness and loyalty The teeth The chin The nose\\nThe eye The eye of long memory The jealous eye\\nThe narrow eye The eyebrows The ear 405\\nCHAPTER XLVn\\nEMACIATION\\nHow thin women may become plump and stay so Leanness\\ncan be easily avoided Harmless measures alone necessary\\nTreatment not wholly availing in cases of chronic organic\\ndiseases Helpful suggestions Irritable nerves Treat-\\nment in detail Exercise, diet and rest Value of skin\\nfood A tonic sometimes necessary Value of voice culture\\nCultivation of calmness and placidity The treatment not\\nan experiment 417\\nCHAPTER XLVIII\\nOBESITY\\nHow to safely deal with an excess of flesh Any woman can treat\\nherself without injury to health No drugs necessary", "height": "4364", "width": "2936", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0028.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS 21\\nPAGE\\nTreating fat scientifically Some flesh-reducing methods\\nThe proper weight for various heights When many women\\nbeo-in to grow stout How to meet the enemy Regulating\\nthe diet Suitable clothing Exercise, diet, sleep Regi-\\nmen produces almost immediate results Encouragement\\nfrom frequent weighing Lotion to prevent the formation of\\nwrinkles after reduction The treatment not an empty fad,\\nbut an accomplished scientific fact 425\\nCHAPTER XLIX\\nCOSMETICS\\nTheir use and abuse When properly applied they are neither\\nimmoral nor vulgar Cosmetics are of ancient lineage\\nA woman fully justified in repairing the damage of years\\nand care Cosmetics not necessary for a woman under\\nthirty Fading beauty accentuated by carelessness Day-\\nlight cosmetics Cosmetics for the home-dinner, opera and\\nball Liquid whitener White face-powder Formula for\\nrouge Liquid rouge 434\\nCHAPTER L\\nPERFUMES\\nThe perfumer s art has changed little with time How to hold a\\nflower odor Only a few flowers yield oils Essential oils\\nvery costly How to make your own perfumes How to\\ndistill essential oils from flowers The best flowers for pur-\\nposes of distillation Bouquets the most successful odors\\nExtract essence of rose Lavender toilet water Florida\\nwater West India bay rum Sachets Rose sachet powder\\nViolet sachet powder Incense and sweet-scented pastilles\\nfor burning Cologne Lavender and rose smelling-salts\\nHeliotrope sachet powder Formula for fictitious violet\\nwater Potpourri of rose leaves The abuse of perfumes. 441", "height": "4348", "width": "2708", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0029.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "22\\nCONTENTS\\nAPPENDIX A\\nPAGE\\nHow Catherine Lane, a human wreck, was restored to\\nHEALTH AND BEAUTY WITHOUT DRUGS OR STIMULANTS OF\\nANY KIND 456\\nAPPENDIX B\\nHow Martha Baker was cured of obesity, without drugs. 477\\nAPPENDIX C\\nEasily-made remedies and toilet preparations\\n499\\nAPPENDIX D\\nList of medicated soaps, with their uses 528\\nAPPENDIX E\\nTable of measures\\ne a\\n530\\nGeneral Index\\no a\\n533", "height": "4364", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0030.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "PAGE\\nHarriet Hubbard Ayer, Frontispiece\\nMrs. Aver at work, --_-----___ 28\\nMrs. Ayer at 20, from a photograph taken in Rome, Italy, 31\\nMrs. Ayer and her little daughter, --------32\\nTransformation op an Ugly Duckling. A.\\n1. Miss Frankie Jay when she first consulted Mrs. Ayer, 37\\n2. The missing tooth replaced, --37\\n3. Premature wrinkles removed from brow, _ _ _ _ 37\\n4. Freckles eradicated, ----__-_. 37\\nTransformation of an Ugly Duckling. B.\\nEyebrows that met over the nose removed. Miss Frankie Jay at\\nthe end of six weeks treatment, 33\\nMadame Patti at fifty-four (1898) 43\\nMadame Bernhardt her latest photograph (1899) 44\\nMrs. Langtry at the age of sixteen, --------53\\nMrs. Langtry present day (1899) 54\\nThe Duchess of Marlborough (latest picture), an ideal young mother, 61\\nEnglish type of beauty the Princess of Pless, q2\\nAmerican type of beauty, -----^-_--67\\nType of golden-haired beauty, 68\\nThree American types of beauty, -_-____. 73\\nAustrian type of beauty, 74\\nFrench type of beauty Cleo de Merode 77\\nJewish type of beauty, -------__-7g\\nItalian type of beauty (old) ;---^_81\\nItalian type of beauty (modern) 82\\nThe Hair:\\nThe anatomy of a single hair, --------87\\nHow to brush the hair, 88\\nAn artist s model famed for luxuriant hair. No. 1, 93\\nAn artist s model famed for luxuriant hair. No. 2, 94\\n(23)", "height": "4360", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0031.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "24 ILLUSTRATIONS\\nScalp Massage: page\\n1. First movement in scalp massage, -119\\n2. Massage gently in line of part, 120\\n3. Third movement in scalp massage Eipple movement, 123\\n4. Massage treatment for headache, ____-- i24\\nThe Complexion Lines and Weinkles:\\n(1) Petulant lines. (2) The gossip. (3) Conscientious wrinkles.\\n(4) The cynic. (5) The giggler. (6) Revengeful lines, 159\\nAnatomical chart showing facial muscles (1) Frontalis muscle.\\n(2) Occipitalis muscle. (3) Orbicularis Palpebrarum muscle.\\n(4) Orbital portion of the Orbicularis Palpebrarum. (5) Com-\\npressor Naris muscle. (6) Depressor Alse Nasi muscle. (7)\\nOrbicularis Oris muscle. (8) Levator Labii Superioris muscle.\\n(9) Levator Anguli Oris muscle. (10) Zygomaticus Major.\\n(11) Zygomaticus Minor. (12) Platysma Myoides. (13) De-\\nscending portion of Platysma Myoides. (14) Depressor Labii\\nInferioris. (15) Depressor Anguli Oris. (16) Levator Menti.\\n(18) Temporal muscle. (19) Masseter muscle. (20) Sterno-\\nmastoid muscle. (21) Trapezius muscle, _ 160\\nMassage for wrinkles in the forehead, _--_-_ 171\\nMassage for removing laughing wrinkles, 171\\nMassage movement for removing droop to eyelid, 172\\nMassage for making flabby neck firm, 175\\nMassage for developing the predominating muscles, 175\\nMassage for developing Mahler muscles, 176\\nDiagram for Facial Massage\\nTo remove furrows from the brow, -179\\nTo remove laughing wrinkles, --____- igQ\\nTo remove a droop in the eyelid, 183\\nFor making flabby neck firm, 184\\nFor developing the predominating muscles, 187\\nFor strengthening the Mahler muscles, 188\\nThe perfect eye, __---------- 2OI\\nAn old type of beauty, __---.----- 202\\nThe Mouth and Teeth:\\nMrs. X before implantation of teeth, 239\\nMrs. X after implantation of teeth, 239\\nThe perfect mouth (profile) __-_---- 240\\nThe perfect mouth (front view) 240\\nThe harmonic poise, ___-----_-- 259\\nDiagram of normal figure, 260\\nThe stretch of thumb and second finger should measure the face, 263\\nThe Gibson type of measures, 263\\nNormal proportions of a woman s figure 3 illustrations, 264\\nNormal proportions of a woman s throat, 267", "height": "4364", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0032.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "ILLUSTKATIONS 25\\nPAGE\\nNormal proportions of a woman s wrist, 268\\nNormal proportions of a woman s foot, 268\\nThe torture corset, 273\\nThe middle aged woman with a badly fitting corset. No. 1, 274\\nSame woman with proper fitting corset. No. 2, 274\\nCorset for slender women who wish the new figure, 274\\nManicuring\\nShape the nails with a velvet file, 285\\nUse clippers instead of curved scissors, 285\\nShowing use of the orange-wood stick in manicuring, 286\\nPolishing with the buffer, 286\\nFoot Massage\\nTo massage the sore joint, ___--__- 313\\nRub always from the ankle toward the toes, 313\\nTo relieve bunions and swollen joints, 314\\nUse the rotary movement on the outside of foot and ankle, 317\\nSupport the ball of foot with left hand, 317\\nGeography of a dissipated woman s face, -__-_- 318\\nPhysical Culture\\nGymnastics for the little men and women of the four hundred, 329\\nForm exercises for grace and strength: (1) Lying flat on back,\\narms extended above head, chest deflated. (2) Lying on back,\\narms extended, chest inflated. (3) Seated, arms extended,\\nchest inflated. (4) Lying on back, feet and arms extended\\nupward, chest deflated, 330\\nExercises for strengthening muscles of thigh and side, 333\\nExercises to expand chest, 333\\nExercise for erect figure (Swedish movements) _ 334\\nRunning for strength, __---_--- 334\\nExercises in Physical Culture:\\nAn invitation to consumption, 337\\nConsumption defied, ________ 337\\nExercises for chest and lung development 4 illustrations, 337\\nThe Ling movements 7 illustrations, 338\\nDumb-bell exercises 8 illustrations, -_--__ 341\\nThe game of basket ball 4 illustrations, 342\\nTo develop calf of leg, 347\\nTo reduce size of waist, 347\\nChest development and rounded arms, 347\\nExercises for reducing hips and making waist supple 3 illustra-\\ntions, 348\\nSwedish movements\\nLeg swing to reduce hips, forward movement, 351\\nLeg swing to reduce hips, backward movement, 351\\nHalf standing, trunk bending backward, _ 352", "height": "4344", "width": "2764", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0033.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "26 ILLUSTRATIONS\\nPhysical Culture Continued page\\nSwedish movements Continued\\nExercises for strengthening abdominal muscles, 352\\nSitting, trunk bending backward, with arms bending and\\nstretching, ---_-_____ 355\\nThe same as the first with arms stretching, 355\\nHead exercises for flabby throats and double chins: (1) Throw\\nthe head as far back as possible. (2) Bend the head forw^ard\\nuntil the chin rests upon the breastbone. (3) Turn the head\\nfrom right to left, let the chin approach the shoulder as nearly\\nas possible, --------.__ 355\\nExercises in Physical Culture\\nFloating, --369\\nReady to dive, 369\\nSwimming, 369\\nTreading water, 369\\nHow to sleep and how not to sleep 3 illustrations, 870\\nWrong way to put a baby in a tub, 381\\nRight way to put a baby in a tub, 381\\nSew the baby s clothes on,- 382\\nWrong way to hold a baby, 391\\nRight way to hold a baby, 391\\nA baby s outstanding ears and a pug nose 2 illustrations, 392\\nHow to correct a baby s outstanding ears, 399\\nA perfectly groomed baby, 400\\nMary Anderson Navarro s little son, 407\\nSymbols of the mouth, 408\\nTypes revealed by the chin, 411\\nTypes revealed by the neck, -412\\nCatherine Lane, before treatment, 461\\nCatherine Lane inhaling oxygen, 462\\nCatherine Lane at the end of six weeks treatment, 473\\nCatherine Lane, two years after, 474\\nMartha Baker, before treatment, 493\\nMartha Baker, after five weeks reduction treatment, 494\\nMartha Baker s measurements, taken from life, showing proportionate\\nreduction from Mrs. Ayer s treatment, 497\\nThe evolution of the corset from Greek zone to the corset of to-day, 498\\nElectricity to remove wrinkles, 515\\nThe proper way to use the camel s-hair face-scrubbing brush, 516\\nMrs. Ayer and Her Daughter Margaret 531", "height": "4364", "width": "2920", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0034.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4336", "width": "2696", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0035.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "cr\\no\\nI-\\nUJ\\nCO\\na:\\n3", "height": "4364", "width": "2992", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0036.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "Which with experimental zeal doth warrant\\nThe tenor of my book. Much Ado about Nothing.\\n^OR fifteen years I have been studying, experi-\\nmenting, manufacturing and writing along\\nthe lines followed in this volume.\\nI do not advance theories, but demonstrated\\nfacts in what 1 have to say. I know that\\ngood women are happier and better if they\\nkeep their good looks, their youthful grace\\nand elasticity, their girlish figures throughout life, than\\nwhen through ignorance or carelessness, or both, they lose\\ntheir personal charms and become old and bent, wrinkled\\nand fat, or emaciated before they have reached the golden\\nprime of life. When I say that no woman need be obese,\\nno woman, if she have not an organic disease, need be\\nbony, no woman need grow bent and haggard and yel-\\nlow, faded or wrinkled; I assert what I have proved not\\nonce, but thousands of times.\\nI believe that good women can be more helpful, more\\nuplifting, and wield a stronger moral influence if they\\n(29)", "height": "4348", "width": "2772", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0037.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "30 PREFACE\\nare lovely to look at. graceful as well as gracious, perpet-\\nually young and beautiful, than the reverse.\\nWe were created with a love of beauty, and woman is\\nits highest expression. The beautiful girl, the beautiful\\nwife and mother, the beautiful grandmother we think of\\nthem each with a special tenderness and gratitude.\\nThe reason for writing this volume is found in the\\nfact that for many years no single day has passed that I\\nhave not received letters from unknown women asking\\nfor a book that would give them practical advice on the\\nsubjects here treated.\\nI most sincerely hope and believe that every woman\\nwho does me the honor of reading what I have to say\\nwill find many hints and suggestions that will be useful\\nto her and to others whose welfare she has at heart for\\nit is my earnest wish to be of practical service.\\nI am indebted to the Editors of the New York World\\nfor permission to reprint the copyrighted accounts of the\\ncures of Catherine Lane and Martha Baker, two patients\\nwho were placed by the Sunday World in my care, and\\nfor leave to use in this book various of my formulas,\\nwhich have appeared in the World s evening edition.\\nI also beg to acknowledge my indebtedness for many\\nformulas and also for much valuable information con-\\ntained in this book to the eminent dermatologists, Dr.\\nE. Monin, Secretary of the French Hygienic Society and\\nChevalier of the Legion of Honor, Dr. Hebra Pere,\\nVienna, and also to Drs. Fossati, Vigier, Anna Kingsford,\\nJ. V. Shoemaker, as well as to the works of the late Sir\\nErasmus Wilson, Drs. DeBaye and Cazenave, and partic-", "height": "4364", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0038.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "MRS. AVER AT TWENTY\\nFROM A PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN IN ROME, ITALY\\n(31)", "height": "4356", "width": "2772", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0039.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "MRS. AVER AND HER LITTLE DAUGHTER\\n(32)", "height": "4364", "width": "2936", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0040.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "PREFACE 33\\nularly I wish to express my appreciation of the aid given\\nby Dr. Robert Eugene Payne, whose marvelous dental\\nwork needs no commendation of mine to enhance its value.\\nDoctor Payne performed the operation of tooth im-\\nplantation described in Chapter XXVII. and personally\\ngave me much late scientific information in the manage-\\nment of teeth, which places me in his debt and will prove\\nof valuable benefit to my readers.\\n1 wish, likewise, to thank my colleagues, Mrs. E. A.\\nHammond, Mrs. E. M. Brandenberg, Miss E. Cogswell, Mrs.\\nJuliet Lee, Miss Parrish, and Miss Sophie Bergman, each\\neminent in her calling, for the photographs illustrating the\\nadministration of electricity, facial massage, manicuring,\\nand foot massage, massage of the scalp, and Swedish move-\\nments for physical culture.\\nThese pictures were taken under the personal direction\\nof the ladies mentioned, and are invaluable because they\\nactually demonstrate from living subjects the scientific\\nmethods for obtaining the best results from treatments\\nwhich are acknowledged by the medical profession, with-\\nout a dissenting voice, as the very best known to science\\nfor the purposes in view.", "height": "4364", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0041.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4360", "width": "2928", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0042.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER I\\nTHE WILL O THE WISP, BEAUTY\\nEven virtue is more fair when it appears in a beautiful person. Virgil.\\nN HER own mind, at least, no woman is ever just\\nwhat she wants to be. If she be pretty, she is\\nstriving to be prettier. If she be plain, she is\\nstruggling to be less plain, to approach comeliness\\nby one path or other. When one considers the\\namount of time, and patience, and money, and\\nheartache a woman consecrates to the task she\\nhas set herself, the situation becomes well-nigh pathetic.\\nAlmost from babyhood the secret aim of every little\\ngirl is to be beautiful. She wants to be good, too, but she\\nfeels that, first of all, she must be beautiful. Idle at her\\nbooks, listless and indolent where every other aim and\\nobject of life is concerned, you will find your daughter,\\nyour mother s daughter and mine, your laundress s daugh-\\nter, the daughter of your clergyman, or the daughter of\\n(35)", "height": "4352", "width": "2756", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0043.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "36 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nyour hero, equally alert, eager^ untiring, and faithful in\\nthe pursuit of good looks.\\nI doubt if any woman ever stops, ever calls a halt, in\\nthe pursuit of outward loveliness. As a young maiden\\nshe is intent upon the creation of beautiful womanhood.\\nShe watches the deepening color of her eyes, notes the\\nincreasing symmetry of her form, the cunning beauties\\nthat reveal themselves in the arch and curves of a mobil-\\nity lately come to moist red lips.\\nShe knows that she is each day the handmaid of a\\nwork of creative loveliness, and she never tires never\\ngrows weary of watching the mirrored result.\\nFinally she rejoices in a superb fulfillment of rosebud\\npromises she realizes the blossoming of the flower, but\\nher charms are hardly mature ere she suddenly becomes\\naware that they begin to show signs of fading.\\nThen she begins to defend her precious possessions.\\nCare, anxiety, maternity, rob her of the rose-leaf color in\\nher cheek, imprint little lines upon her smooth brow, steal\\naway the elasticity of her girlish figure.\\nBy every means in her power, often by every so-called\\npower within her means, she fights inch by inch for the\\ncrown of her life s happiness her pretty face, her lithe,\\ngraceful form. She fights valiantly, too, and even in the\\ndefeat of her Hebe-like grace of youth, she manages to\\nwin our admiration by an opulent and splendid maturity.\\nThe pursuit of beauty in woman has been aided and\\nabetted by man, if, indeed, it does not owe its origin to the\\nmale. The best man in the world, the worst man in the\\nuniverse and all the others in between, succumb to", "height": "4360", "width": "2920", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0044.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "No. 1 MISS FRANKfE JAY WHEN SHE FIRST CONSULTED\\nMRS. AVER\\nNO. 2 THE MISSING TOOTH REPLACED\\nNo. 3 PREMATURE WRINKLES REMOVED FROM BROW\\nNo. 4 FRECKLES ERADICATED\\nTHE TRANSFORMATION OF AN UGLY DUCKLING (a)\\n(37)", "height": "4364", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0045.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "EYEBROWS THAT MET OVER THE NOSE REMOVED. MISS FRANKIE\\nJAY AT THE END OF SIX WEEKS TREATMENT\\n(38)\\nTHE TRANSFORMATION OF AN UGLY DUCKLING (b)", "height": "4364", "width": "2888", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0046.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "THE WILL 0 THE WISP, BEAUTY 39\\nthe charm of beauty in woman. Incidentally it may be\\nstated that he usually says he prefers a plain, good woman\\nto a pretty, vain one. It is very impressive to listen to a\\nman s dissertations upon woman s vanity and her love of\\nadmiration.\\nRecently a man told me that nothing to him was so\\nhopeless as a woman striving to be better looking than\\nthe Lord intended she should be.\\nWhy, he said, can t a woman be satisfied with\\nNature\\nAnd I feebly replied that Nature had been extremely\\nskimpy in dealing out personal attributes to some of us,\\nand a Nature that gave a girl crooked teeth, pink eye-\\nlashes, freckles, and knock-knees, was not deserving of the\\nundying gratitude of her victim.\\nI should think, he retorted with much vigor, a\\nthousand times more of a girl who is content to abide b}^\\nthe looks she was born with than of one who tries to im-\\nprove on Nature.\\nThe night following I saw this young man at the\\ntheatre. He was escorting a young woman with auburn\\nhair and beautiful blue eyes.\\nThe next morning he asked me if I saw the sweet\\nlittle girl who was with him, and if I didn t think her\\n^awfully pretty.\\nAnd I behaved like a perfect angel and said I saw her\\nand thought her lovely. There was something else I might\\nhave said, for I remembered that same sweet little girl\\nwhen she had white eyelashes and eyebrows, and the\\nugliest carrot-red hair ever inflicted upon a child. I know", "height": "4364", "width": "2764", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0047.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "40 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nwhen and how that hair was made a pretty auburn, and\\nthose eyelashes and eyebrows stained a shade darker.\\nAnd I also know that the man who finds her so charm-\\ning now would never have looked twice at her with her\\nwhite eyebrows and lashes.\\nSome of these days I hope this little girl will have the\\ncourage to tell my friend, who is head over heels in love\\nwith her, about her eyebrows. That will be the time for\\ntesting this man s affection. Because he raves over this\\nmaiden s exquisite soul, which he assures me is a fit com-\\npanion for her face, ten to one he will declare he has\\nbeen deceived by a designing girl villain. And who knows\\nwhat the consequences will be?\\nBut if every man who asks a sweet young girl to join\\nher life with his own is not concealing from her some-\\nthing rather more discreditable than a stained eyebrow,\\nthen, I say, let us all stop work and sing psalms of re-\\njoicing, for the millennium is upon us.\\nThe pursuit of beauty is as old as the world as old\\nas the love of beauty. Do not let us blame the women\\nwho have learned, some of them in the saddest of all\\nways, that beauty is the supreme power of our sex. Eather\\nlet us realize that perpetual beauty and virtue are syn-\\nonymous, because it has been proved that even physical\\nbeauty, if maintained in its proper sense, after maturity,\\nmeans purity and temperance, and without these two at-\\ntributes no power on earth can preserve a woman s love-\\nliness beyond the early thirties.", "height": "4364", "width": "2888", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0048.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II\\nTHE ART OF REMAINING YOUNG\\nBeauty is a great gift from Heaven, not for the purpose of female vanity, but for one\\nwlio loves and wishes to be lowed. Maria Edgewood.\\nGE is a matter of feeling, not of years.\\nIt has been frequently said that a woman\\nis as old as she looks, but a man only as\\nold as he feels. It has also been from time\\nto time declared by various wiseacres that\\nevery woman looks her age.\\nHelen of Troy was forty-six when men\\nfought for her smiles and favors. Diane de Poitiers was\\nfifty-six when men far and near acknowledged her a siren,\\nwhose fascinations none could resist. Julie Recamier at\\nsixty could hardly dissuade an enamored prince, half her\\nage, from suicide, because she declined to accept his pro-\\ntestations of passionate love. Ninon de FEnclos s last des-\\nperate affair of the heart occurred when that lady was in\\nher early eighties. But, you will say very properly, that\\nthese are women of history, and personal history is apt\\nA.-3 (41)", "height": "4364", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0049.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "42 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nto be far from accurate. Let me then point you to ex-\\namples of persistent beauty and youthfulness, despite all\\nobstacles, in the women of our own generation.\\nLook at Sara Bernhardt as a typical example of the\\nwoman who really is only as old as her face and figure\\nappear. Mme. Bernhardt is far beyond fifty. She ap-\\npears about thirty-seven or thirty-eight on the stage,\\nbut wonder of wonders, she really does not look a day\\nover thirty in private life. I know Mme. Bernhardt, and\\nthe last time she was here I looked closely at her face.\\nI scrutinized every feature I was on the alert for the\\nlines that are said to mark the fortieth year; for the loss\\nof flesh firmness which is, unless prevented by care, almost\\ncertain to intrude its unwelcome presence at about forty-\\nsix. I watched Mme. Bernhardt as perhaps she never was\\nwatched before, and I declare to you that, with the excep-\\ntion of a few tiny emotional lines about the upper lip,\\nSara Bernhardt is as young in appearance to-day as she\\nwas when I saw her twenty years ago in Paris, and a\\nthousand times better looking, more charming, and fascin-\\nating in every way.\\nAdelina Patti is another woman over fifty who will\\nnever be old in appearance, and whom no one can recall\\nas a really old woman.\\nI could continue, had I space, to cite innumerable other\\ninstances which would prove the statement I make with-\\nout qualification, when I declare that there is no necessity\\nfor a woman to grow old.\\nNow, when I say there is no necessity for a woman to\\ngrow old, I mean just what the words stand for. This", "height": "4364", "width": "2980", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0050.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "MADAME PATTI AT FIFTY-FOUR (1898)\\n(43)", "height": "4356", "width": "2696", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0051.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "r\\nf\\nI\\nf\\nMADAME BERNHARDT HER LATEST PICTURE (1899)\\n(44)\\ni", "height": "4360", "width": "2940", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0052.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "THE ART OF REMAINING YOUNG 45\\nstatement is intended for women under thirty. They may\\nremain where th y are for twenty years, if they will. I\\nhave another and more comprehensive statement to make,\\nand one I have fully proved, and am prepared to prove\\nagain. It is that women of fifty or over who chose to do\\nso, may recover, in appearance and feeling, the youth they\\nhave been defrauded of. They may get back the lost lines\\nand curves, the freshness of the skin and elasticity of\\nstep, if they but will to do so.\\nYou see, happily for us women, the old-fashioned grand-\\nmother has gone out of fashion. May she never be re-\\nvived. Fifty years ago a woman practically retired from\\nthe pleasures and active interests of life at about her for-\\ntieth birthday and began to get ready to die. It made\\nno difference how youthful her spirit may have been, nor\\nhow many years of her young life she had unselfishly de-\\nvoted to the bearing and rearing of a brood of children.\\nYes, I glory in the fact that we have emancipated the\\nyoung grandmother. The truth is there is no rhyme or\\nreason in age as associated with decrepitude. The woman\\nof to-day is young, vigorous, and beautiful at fifty, because\\nshe has discovered that there need be no such thing as\\nold grandmotherdom. The grandmother of to-day is some-\\nthing to be proud of. She is in the prime of her life.\\nShe looks forward, not back. The reverence inspired in\\nthe fulfillment of a splendid womanhood, in which no\\nfaintest signs of fading or weakness are visible, is no less\\nexalted and far more admirable than the condescending\\nand patronizing protection we gave to the grandmother\\nof half a century back, who shed tears for her departed", "height": "4352", "width": "2656", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0053.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "46 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nyouth, often, I doubt not, for the greater portion of her\\nadult life.\\nIt has taken a good many years, and an eternity of\\npatience, to convince the modern woman that she is ac-\\ncountable to herself, as well as to her family, for every\\nwrinkle, for her middle-aged figure, triple chin, scant locks,\\ntoothless mouth, bent back, and general invitation in her\\nappearance to Time to do his worst a rushing out to\\nmeet and embrace every foe to her looks, and her happi-\\nness as well.\\nThere is an old adage, and a true one, which says\\nComeliness recommends virtue. If there were virtue in\\nplainness, this world ought to be much better than I, at\\nleast, have found it to be. Mortals are led by appearance.\\nIt is the beautiful women of the world who have been\\nthe most powerful. It is the beautiful women who have\\nlargely made history. Beauty and goodness should walk\\nhand in hand, and the more lovely a good woman is, the\\nlonger she can retain her charm of person, the better\\nequipped she will be for the highest duties that may de-\\nvolve upon her.\\nIt has been said that there is no royal road to beauty.\\nThere is no regal or sumptuous approach to anything\\nthat is worth having, so far as my experience has taught\\nme. Certainly the preservation of one s graces and\\ncharms requires care and common sense, but not more\\ncare than you give your fine laces, your precious bric-a-\\nbrac, your flowers, your household effects, or your pets.\\nScrupulous cleanliness, air, light, diet, exercise it is\\nsimple enough and without question we adopt these", "height": "4364", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0054.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "THE ART OF REMAINING YOUNG 4n\\nmeans, partl}^ or in their entirety, for all other things\\nwithin our care and jurisdiction. It is surprising, nay, it\\nis amazing, to think of the line we draw between our-\\nselves in the point of care, and the skillful attention and\\nthe solicitude we bestow upon an animal of the lower\\nkingdom, or even upon the parlor furniture. We neglect\\nourselves, but we keep the silver from tarnishing, and the\\nhouse well dusted. We have accepted, with rigid sullen-\\nness, or a resignation which could never have been any-\\nthing but pretended, the moth patches and specks upon\\nour cheeks and brows, and the disposition of our noses\\nto turn bright red when they most afflicted us by so\\ndoing. We have been tormented by skin diseases, over-\\nburdened by fat, and tortured by protruding bones when\\nwe desired curves we have supinely submitted because\\nwell, does any reasoning woman know I certainly do\\nnot, except that it has been inherited and bred in us for\\ngenerations back to take all these afflictions as a part of\\nGod s work. At the same time, we have exhausted our\\nlives in polishing brasses and keeping specks off the\\nwindow glass.\\nIn scornful disdain we bar the spotty bit of fruit, the\\nwithered vegetable, or the aged hen from our kitchens\\nand our tables, for we are, first of all, conscientious house-\\nkeepers. We are as one who should say Nothing shall\\nbe speckled or withered or wrinkled but me, and I speak\\nwith no intention of being irreverent when I assert that\\nwe have pretended at least to believe that our mutilated\\nand disfigured faces and forms were a part of God s spe-\\ncial and specific work, while we have religiously taught", "height": "4360", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0055.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "48 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nand been taught that ours consisted in an endless war\\nagainst time and decay, spots and specks, dusts and tar-\\nnish, as applied to silver and mahogany, cupboards and\\nwindow glass. In other words. Providence would look\\nafter us. If he didn t it was for our own good, and a\\npart of some great and glorious scheme has primarily\\nnecessitated our being humiliated and neglected. Provi-\\ndence exacted of us to do nothing for ourselves. We\\nwere to put in our time beautifying tin pans and brass\\nknockers.\\nI believe the old-fashioned idea concerning a woman,\\nas here referred to, is not only absurd, but demoralizing.\\nIf it be symbolic of pure domestic life and womanly\\ncharacter to be a good housekeeper, which means to be\\nexquisitely nice about the appointments of one s home,\\nwhy in the world is it not even more praiseworthy for\\nthe mistress of such a home to regard herself a-s quite as\\nprecious as the daintiest of her possessions, and to care\\nfor herself accordingly I am convinced that no one fac-\\ntor in a family is so demoralizing as a careless, slatternly\\nwife and mother.\\nA witty member of our sex once said that she found\\na consolation in being well dressed which no religion had\\never afforded her. A woman is always happiest who\\nknows that in her appearance she is charming and pleas-\\ning to those whom she loves and whose affection makes\\nup the sum and substance of her life.\\nThere are a number of ways of combating the ravages\\nof time in its impress upon our faces and forms. One,\\nthe hygienic method, which is certainly the best, should", "height": "4364", "width": "2904", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0056.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "THE ART OF REMAINING YOUNG 49\\nbegin in infancy or early youth, and may properly be\\ncalled the prevention of destruction. The method will\\nresult in giving to every disciple the maximum of her\\npossibilities for physical beauty.\\nThe second is the cosmetic branch, v^ith w^hich may be\\nincluded plastic surgery. Cosmetics and youth should be\\nstrangers.\\nDuring the years I studied chemistry and cosmetic art\\nand manufactured so-called cosmetics, I labored faithfully,\\nboth here and in Europe, and the longer I remained in\\nthe laboratory manufacturing these articles, the less I\\nfelt the average v\\\\^oman needed them or should use them,\\nand the more respect I had for scrubbing brushes, soap,\\nand water, without other aids, at least for women under\\nthirty.\\nWomen of a certain age who have missed the great\\nopportunity for perpetuating their youth, in the general\\nignorance which clouded all of us, at least in my genera-\\ntion, can undo much of the ravages of the past. They\\nmay call a halt on Time and may be pardoned for resort-\\ning to innocent devices in the way of harmless aids to\\ntheir toilet. It will be my very pleasant task to offer\\nmy readers suggestions from both points of view that is\\nto say, suggestions for young women who wish to pre-\\nserve their beauty and to acquire a hygienic method of\\ndoing so, and to other and older women advice for the\\nrepair of damage and for the restoration of the beauty of\\nyouth, or at least a fair resemblance of it, for beauty\\ndoth varnish age and give the crutch the cradle s in-\\nfancy.", "height": "4364", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0057.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER HI\\nTHE SIN OF DOWDINESS\\nTime hath worn us into slovenry. Henry V.\\nHERE are women who are constitutionally ex-\\nempt from dowdiness, but the average woman\\nof moderate means and, above all, the woman\\nwho has to count every penny and make it\\nthe equivalent of a five-cent piece is in great\\ndanger of drifting into that most unattractive\\ncondition called dowdiness.\\nThe dowdy woman may be born so, in which case I\\nthink she should never marry. All of us see women who\\nnever look well dressed, whose hair is always coming down,\\nand whose faces even are dowdy looking, showing an\\nutter disregard of .the art of grooming, as well as a total\\nlack of discrimination in the selection of apparel.\\nFrequently these women have money, for the dowd is\\nnot confined to any station in life, nor is she necessarily\\nthe product of poverty and ignorance.\\n(50)", "height": "4364", "width": "2920", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0058.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "THE SIN OF DOWDINESS 51\\nWhen you see a woman with filthy skirts, a soiled\\nstock and faded finery, no matter how bright and pretty\\nher face or how perfect her complexion, she is dowdy.\\nSome women drift into dowdy ism in a most extraordi-\\nnary manner as soon as they are what they are pleased to\\nterm married and settled. A girl whom we all remembei\\nas dainty and trim during her youth in a year or two\\nafter her brilliant marriage becomes a confirmed sloven, a\\nslave to loose wrappers and down-at-the-heel slippers in\\nother words, a dowd.\\nThe man who remembers her as she stood beside him\\nin all her bridal beauty has cause to feel that he has been\\nbadly cheated, as indeed he has.\\nWives who permit themselves to become dowdy well\\nunderstand that sooner or later their husbands will regret\\never having married them, and after that the end may be\\neasily predicted.\\nIt is a grave mistake for a woman to neglect her looks,\\nno matter what her age or condition in life. It is almost\\ncriminal in a married woman. Sometimes when I tell this\\nto a woman who is on the road to dowdiness she replies\\nthat she lets herself go because she has so much to do\\nand does not like to spend the money.\\nThis is a penny-wise-and-pound-foolish view of the mat-\\nter, and it is pregnant with real danger to the peace and\\nhappiness of two people, and sometimes of an entire family.\\nThe woman who has so much to do would never think\\nof neglecting to scrub her floor, or polish her tin pans.\\nShe will sew yards of cheap lace upon a baby dress, or\\nsit up nights making useless finery for a child who", "height": "4364", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0059.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "52 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nwould be much more comfortable and attractive in a\\nsimple garment.\\nBut she has not time to take a daily bath, to keep her\\nhair lustrous and well dressed and to preserve her teeth\\neven and white. Instead she allows herself to degenerate\\ninto a household drudge and dowd.\\nIf I had the making of the laws I would require that\\nevery living woman should take one hot scrub and one\\ncold sponge each day, brush her teeth twice at least and\\nher hair night and morning.\\nI would make it a misdemeanor for a woman to ap-\\npear in drabbly skirts, and a penitentiary offense to be\\nfound attired in a Mother Hubbard outside of her own\\nroom.\\nFurther than this I don t believe in plain-looking\\nwomen.\\nThere is a chance for every one of us to be attractive\\nin appearance, and there is no such thing as a hopelessly\\nugly girl or woman.\\nTo be sure, we may not be raving beauties, all of us,\\nbut every woman alive can make herself a pleasant pic-\\nture for the eyes of man to fall upon.\\nFirst of all, whatever her age is, a woman must look\\nscrupulously nice and clean.\\nUntidy hands, a face that shows the need of a scrub-\\nbing brush, hair that is forever falling down or displays\\nbits of strings and other devices for keeping it up, shoes\\nthat are dingy, without buttons and run off at the heel, a\\nfringed dress skirt lifted to reveal a soiled petticoat and\\na wrinkled stocking.", "height": "4384", "width": "2964", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0060.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "MRS. LANGTRY AT THE AGE OF SIXTEEN\\nAN OBJECT LESSON IN BEAUTY CULTURE\\n(53)", "height": "4336", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0061.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "MRS. LANGTRY PRESENT DAY (1899)\\nAN OBJECT LESSON IN BEAUTY CULTURE\\n(54)", "height": "4364", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0062.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "THE SIN OF DOWDINESS 55\\nThere is nothing so fatal to a girl s chances as untidi-\\nness.\\nBut suppose, as a girl once wrote to me, that a woman\\nis freckled, and has red hair and no figure to speak of.\\nSuppose, with such natural disadvantages, she is poor\\nand has to work hard and ruin her hands, and is always\\ntired, and can never buy anything pretty. What then?\\nWell, all that is just what I will suppose.\\nNow, red hair of itself is beautiful. Usually it waves\\nor curls, and that is an added beauty.\\nFreckles are not pretty, and they are practically there\\nto stay. The freckles of red-haired women are conspicu-\\nous during the day, but they do not show much, some-\\ntimes not at all, by gaslight.\\nA red-haired, freckled girl too often lacks sufficient\\ncontrast between eyebrows, eyelashes, and skin to give her\\na clean-cut look\\nI think in such cases it is a woman s duty to darken\\nthe eyebrows and lashes. This can be done with little\\ntrouble and is imperceptible. The complexion of the red-\\nhaired girl is her most serious drawback.\\nIt lends itself to untidiness, so the victim must be\\nespecially careful to keep it looking clean and well cared\\nfor.\\nIf the red-haired girl has an oily skin she must be\\ncareful of her diet, avoiding all greasy and stimulating\\nfood, and in addition she must use an astringent lotion\\nand a very little fine powder.\\nIf my little red-headed girl has not nice teeth, she should\\nhave them repaired and made pretty and wholesome.", "height": "4356", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0063.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "56\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nA thousand times better go without a new winter hat\\nand gown, if you are a poor girl, than let your teeth\\nsuffer.\\nAnd there is not only wisdom, but morality in all this\u00e2\u0080\u009e\\nfor it is virtuous to be just as lovely as one can, and as\\nno depraved woman ever was truly lovely, there is no\\nmoral danger in being beautiful and remaining so. There\\nis a good deal of work to be accomplished, but it is a\\nwork in the right direction.", "height": "4364", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0064.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "-.oooooi- iGlLBCRT\\nCHAPTER IV\\nTHE WELL-GROOMED WOMAN\\nWe must be neat not neat but cleanly,\\nWinter s Tale.\\nHEN one wishes to briefly epitomize a woman\\nas exquisitely neat, perfectly dressed, and cor-\\nrect in all the appointments of a thorough-\\nbred daughter of the nineteenth century, one\\nsays of her She is a well-groomed woman.\\nPractically, it means that the lady in\\nquestion is most delicately fastidious in\\neverything pertaining to her toilet and personality. The\\nwell-groomed woman would much sooner relinquish her\\nbreakfast than her morning plunge, and about as will-\\ningly submit to an attack upon her moral character as to\\na suspicion that her linen was ever other than absolutely\\nimmaculate.\\nGood grooming has nothing whatever to do with\\nmake-up in any form.\\n(57)", "height": "4360", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0065.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "58 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIndeed, it is opposed radically to paints, powders, and\\nartifice generally.\\nThe well-groomed woman is she who takes her two\\nbaths daily, and whose bath at night is known as and\\ncalled the hot scrub.\\nThe friction of the various bath brushes used for this\\nfunction gives the skin a satin-like bloom which no sub-\\nterfuge w^ill impart.\\nThe well-groomed woman s hair is lustrous, soft, and,\\nabove all, with never a suggestion of dandruff. Her scalp\\nis as clean and shining as her brow.\\nShe is as careful about the cleanliness of her head as\\nof her face, and, if necessary, the hair will be washed twice\\nor thrice a week, for cleanliness and furfura, as she knows,\\nare incompatible.\\nHer hands are daintiness itself, her linen irre-\\nproachable her boots as perfectly varnished and as\\nwell-fitting and tasteful as those of her brother, the ac-\\nknowledged best-dressed man of his class at Yale or Co-\\nlumbia.\\nHer skirts and jackets appear each time she wears\\nthem, until they are cast aside, without a frazzled edge or\\n3pot. Her gloves fit to a nicety, never pinch, and are al-\\nways whole and carefully buttoned.\\nIt requires so much time, I hear a reader say.\\nYes, it does but it is time well spent.\\nIt pays particularly for middle-aged women to be thor-\\noughly well groomed.\\nNot long since I met an old friend of mine who is\\ncertainly fifty, possibly older.", "height": "4364", "width": "2860", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0066.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "THE WELL-GROOMED WOMAN 59\\nShe was positively a radiant, handsome creature so\\nsweet, so wholesome looking, so deliciously nice to the\\neye, that I said to her\\nYou are better looking, handsomer, more attractive\\nthan you have ever been. You were stout ten years ago\\ntoo stout. You didn t look at all as you do now. What\\ndo you mean by playing such a trick, and you a grand-\\nmother\\nAnd my friend laughed, and showed two rows of glis-\\ntening teeth, and, looking at me with the merry bright\\neyes of her youngest daughter, said:\\nWhy, I am younger than I was fifteen years ago, for\\nthen I weighed over two hundred pounds and had three\\nchins.\\nThen I had an idea that I must settle down and\\nwear middle-aged clothes costumes the dressmakers\\ncall them and bonnets with strings under the chin, such\\nas are worn with costumes and wraps large, voluminous\\nwraps, continued my friend.\\nOh, I was playing my middle-aged role to the very\\nlimit, when suddenly I awakened to the fact that my\\nhusband was constantly referring to this or that woman s\\nbeautiful figure, charming appearance, and well-groomed\\nlook.\\nSometimes the women he spoke of were younger,\\nsometimes about my own age.\\nGradually I awakened to the knowledge that my hus-\\nband, at five and forty, was just as much of a man and\\njust as susceptible to beauty and grace as when he first\\nfound me pretty and charming twenty years before.", "height": "4344", "width": "2696", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0067.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "60 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAll in a moment I realized that I had grown fat and\\ndumpy and indolent, and that I was losing my husband s\\nlove.\\nNow, it may be unfashionable, but I am just as much\\nin love with him as I was the day we were married.\\nWhen I actually understood the danger I was in, I\\ncan tell you I made up my mind to defend my most\\npriceless possession.\\nI got a book on physical culture. I learned how to\\nreduce my flesh systematically and how to keep at a cer-\\ntain desirable weight. I learned the ritual of perfect\\ncleanliness and practiced it religiously, getting back my\\nold-time freshness.\\nI stopped wearing costumes and became tailor-made\\nfor the street. I ordered the prettiest gowns and negli-\\ngees for home and the most elegant little wraps and\\nwaists for the theatre, and you never saw any one so as-\\ntonished and delighted as my husband.\\nWhen the first grandchild came, I wore such a per-\\nfectly stunning gown to the christening, and I looked so\\nwell, that my husband and my son-in-law kissed me and\\ncalled me a regular peach.\\nIt wasn t an elegant expression, but it made me\\nhappy and it made me doubly appreciate the merit of\\nbeing a perfectly groomed, well-dressed, and attractive\\nwoman, especially after I had passed the golden prime of\\nlife and was descending the shady side of the hill.\\nSome may say, Oh, it s all very easy for such a woman\\nwith ample means and time at her disposal, to keep her-\\nself in the pink of perfection, to parade in tailor-made", "height": "4380", "width": "2876", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0068.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "THE DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH (LATEST PICTURE)\\nAN IDEAL YOUNG MOTHER\\n(61)", "height": "4360", "width": "2772", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0069.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "THE PRINCESS OF PLESS\\nENGLISH TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(62)", "height": "4424", "width": "2884", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0070.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "THE WELL-GROOMED WOMAN 63\\ngowns and ape the juvenile appearance and manners of\\nthe young women of the so-called 400.\\nThere is no force in such a protest. If you had seen\\nthis well-groomed friend of mine you would have been\\nstruck, not so much by her apparel as by her neat, fresh,\\nand wholesome appearance, and you would have said and\\nknown that she would, on that account, look attractive in\\neven the plainest and simplest garb.\\nI am confident you will believe me when I say that\\nwhen it comes to downright attractiveness, one cannot\\nalways say Fine feathers make fine birds. My own ex-\\nperience in life amply bears this out. It has been more\\nvaried than falls to the lot of most of my sisters. I have\\nbeen what one might style a gilded child of luxury, I\\nhave been a business woman at the head of an important\\nenterprise, and I have been a toiler working more hours\\nin the twenty-four and harder than most men work, yet\\nat no time have I seen the day when I felt that my ap-\\nparel alone made, lost, or kept my friends, while almost\\nfrom my girlhood I have been deeply sensible of the ben-\\nefit I have received and the satisfaction I have enjoyed\\nfrom the general observance of the hygienic hints herein\\ngiven hints which help to make the well-groomed\\nwoman in the best and truest sense of the term.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 4", "height": "4352", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0071.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V\\nCLEANLINESS THE HANDMAID OF HEALTH\\nAND BEAUTY\\nSweet beauty in her face such as the daughter of Agenor had.\\nTaming of the Shrew.\\nKNOW and therefore maintain that women may\\nkeep their good looks and manage to defeat time\\nat something like a sum within the reach of the\\naverage little sisters of the rich. Yes, indeed,\\nand I propose to tell you how.\\nAny woman, I do not care who she is how\\nmodest her circumstances, nor, to put it broadly,\\nwhat her age, can, by a little care and the practice of\\nthe necessary rules which are the price of perfect phy-\\nsical beauty, practically defy the years to come, and,\\nmoreover, she can collect the interest due her on the\\nyears that have been defrauding her up to date. She can,\\nto a great extent, get back the youth she has lost.\\n(64)", "height": "4424", "width": "2884", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0072.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY 65\\nFirst of all, we must bear in mind that Cleanliness\\nis next to Godliness. So far as good looks go I will not\\nsay it discounts in its results physically the practice of\\nall the other virtues but, to my thinking, one must be\\nclean before one can be really good. Dirt and religion\\ndo not blend. As our cook says when the sauces fail to\\nmix smoothly, they kind of cruddle. Now to be clean\\nmeans to scrub yes, from head to foot every blessed day\\nof one s life. Slavery! you may say. So it is; but\\nmost of us are slaves to one habit or another, and the\\nbondage of soap and water is a blessing disguised. I will\\nguarantee the transformation of a plain, sallow-faced, bad-\\ncomplexioned woman, into a wholesome, rosy, bright-eyed\\ndaughter of the gods, within the period of six months, if\\nshe will follow my advice and the rules I take the lib-\\nerty of prescribing.\\nFirst of all, then, must come the daily bath taken in a\\ntub with a good scrub from head to feet, including the\\nface.\\nThe road to beauty was known to the Greek and Ro-\\nman women hundreds of years ago. They did not begin\\nto have the resources in cosmetic arts that we have now,\\nbut they understood thoroughly the two vital points in\\nthe pursuit of comeliness and cleanliness and health. To\\nthi^ end they bathed very frequently.\\nIn a vague way every one supposedly knows how to\\ntake a bath. But how many women in a thousand know\\njust what a real hygienic bath means, and how to take it?\\nThe great secret of beauty and comfort is in the\\nhealth-giving bath, taken at least once each day.", "height": "4340", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0073.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "66 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe water should not be too warm and should be\\nmade cooler by adding cold water toward the end of the\\nbath, so that the temperature is a little below what we\\ncall tepid before the bather leaves the tub.\\nIt is not enough to jump into the water and dabble\\nover the body with a sponge or wash cloth.\\nThe skin each day is loaded with the solid matters\\nwhich are the residue of the perspiration, or with its own\\noily exudations. Unless these accumulations are daily re-\\nmoved by water, soap, and friction, the channels become\\nchoked and the secretions, unable to dislodge themselves,\\nproduce inflammation, which we call pimples, or present\\nus with stubborn cases of hateful blackheads.\\nEvery woman should possess a flesh brush for the\\nbody, as well as a camel s hair face-scrubbing brush.\\nConstantly women tell me they cannot afford to pay\\nfor such luxuries. At the same time they will patronize\\nbargain counters, and appear in public staggering under\\nthe flowers, birds, and feathers of an overtowering hat.\\nThe camel s-hair face-scrubbing brush before men-\\ntioned is especially manufactured for the purpose, and\\ncosts at retail one dollar and twenty-five cents. It meas-\\nures about six inches in length and five across. The\\nwooden back is unvarnished, and the bristles are white\\nand firm, but soft. It is easily obtainable at the larger\\ndrug stores.\\nUse a pure soap. Just bear in mind that no soap, par-\\nticularly if largely advertised, can be made of safe and\\nhealing ingredients and be startlingly cheap. If your soap\\nis good made of pure vegetable oils, and fit to use on", "height": "4416", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0074.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "AMERICAN TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(67)", "height": "4344", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0075.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "(68)\\nTYPE OF GOLDEN-HAIRED BEAUTY", "height": "4416", "width": "2960", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0076.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY 69\\nthe face, it will have to cost, at retail, not less than\\ntwenty-five cents. It cannot be manufactured and sold at\\na lower price.\\nIt does sometimes happen, even in these days of com-\\nfort for the middle classes, that it is not possible to take\\na bath in the large tub. But at least every household is\\nequipped with washtubs, and even one of these is better\\nthan none at all.\\nBathing in hard water is apt to make the skin coarse.\\nRain water makes a delicious bath, and when that is not\\nto be obtained the water may be softened by throwing into\\nit a small bag of bran. Even a bag containing a pound\\nof ordinary yellow cornmeal will take the harshness away.\\nDon t be afraid to use soap. Make a good lather on\\nthe brush and scrub away. Begin with the face and use\\na pure hygienic soap with the camel s-hair face-scrubbing\\nbrush. Any good, pure soap is all that is required for the\\nbody. Save the expensive soap for the face alone, and one\\ncake will last a long time.\\nA quick all-over scrub and a thorough rinsing with\\nclear water will take about twenty minutes of each\\ntwenty-four hours. You cannot spend the time more\\nprofitably.\\nThe opinion that a hot bath is enervating is erroneous.\\nOn the contrary, a quick hot bath is exhilarating. A\\ntepid bath is relaxing, and induces reposeful, health-giving\\nsleep.\\nIt is not well to bathe within two hours after eating.\\nThe friction of a good flesh brush rouses and acceler-\\nates the circulation and prevents the gradually decreasing", "height": "4340", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0077.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "70\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nenergy of the circulation which accompanies age and\\nhastens death.\\nSea bathing at the proper season is the most invigor-\\nating of baths and of wonderful value in strengthening\\nthe nervous system, but I am bound to say the sea bath\\ndoes not improve the complexion.", "height": "4416", "width": "2968", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0078.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI\\nCLEANLINESS THE HANDMAID OF HEALTH AND\\nBEAUTY Continued\\nFor beauty is a witch,\\nAgainst whose charms faith melteth into blood.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Shakespeare.\\nRAN and almond-meal bags are excellent things\\nfor a luxurious bath. They are not necessary\\nfor the purpose we have in view, but inas-\\nmuch as they are delicious and easily obtained\\nby those who wish to purchase them, and not\\ndifficult to make at home by those who prefer\\nto do so, I will add that they may be fotlnd\\nat the usual stores devoted to toilet articles, and cost\\nabout twenty cents each. Here is the recipe for those\\nwho wish to make them at home.\\nBRAN AND ALMOND-MEAL BAGS\\nTo three pounds of clean bran and one of Florentine orris root pul-\\nverized, add one and a half pounds of almond meal and eight ounces\\n(71)", "height": "4360", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0079.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "72 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nwhite Castile soap grated. Mix thoroughly. Make twentj-four bags of\\ncheese-cloth about eight inches in length and five across. Put about\\nfive ounces in each bag, and use one bag for a bath just as you would a\\nsponge. Be careful to sew the bags firmly.\\nThe bran or almond-meal bag will make your bath sweet\\nand soft and fragrant, but it will not do away with the ne-\\ncessity for soap and the scrubbing brush. If your finances\\nwill permit, you may also use in your bath two tablespoons\\nof a bath liquid which is very delicious and fragrant. I give\\nthe recipe for making this also. It is easily prepared at\\nhome.\\nBATH LIQUID\\nSweet almonds 32 grammes.\\nBitter almonds 8 grammes.\\nRose water ISO grammes.\\nBenzoic acid 1 gramme.\\nMacerate the almonds until a paste is formed. Do not let them\\noil. Strain them, and add the other ingredients.\\nYou may take your bath either in the morning, or at\\nnight just before retiring, with a preference for the night\\nhour. A cold water plunge taken in the morning is a fine\\ntonic, but one must be very strong and vigorous to stand\\nsuch a bath, and when it is taken, it is best merely to\\nplunge in and get out immediately.\\nThe temperature of the hot bath, which is taken just\\nbefore going to bed, should not exceed 92 degrees Fahren-\\nheit. Hotter than this a bath becomes very stimulating,\\nand is apt to make the subject wakeful.\\nA hot water bath of half a hour, taken late at night\\nunder favorable conditions, is extremely restful, and I know", "height": "4416", "width": "2968", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0080.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "THREE AMERICAN TYPES OF BEAUTY\\n(73)", "height": "4352", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0081.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "AUSTRIAN TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(74)", "height": "4428", "width": "2960", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0082.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY 75\\nof no factor so potent in the preservation of a woman s\\nlooks and vitality.\\nWhen I asked Sara Bernhardt how she kept her ex-\\ntraordinary appearance of youth, her beautiful figure, and\\nher marvelous complexion, she said to me\\n^Hot water, my dear; I do not believe that I should\\nbe alive to-day were it not for my hot bath. When I am\\nnervous, I take a warm bath and am rested. When I\\nam tired, exhausted, I take a hot bath and am revived.\\n4^nd every night after the play is over, 1 take a hot bath\\nand a scrub from head to foot, with a pure soap, and am\\nrefreshed. I believe nothing in the world will preserve a\\nwoman s youth and strength and looks as warm and hot\\nbaths.\\nOf course it is not wise to take a hot bath in the\\nmorning, and then, before the circulation has become\\nequalized, after having been stimulated, to rush out into\\nthe cold or damp.\\nA cold bath every morning is much safer and will be\\nfound equally stimulating where the subject can endure the\\nshock, and many can really stand it who fancy they cannot.\\nAs before stated, it is very necessary to use a proper\\nsoap, and curiously enough, many people are economical\\nabout soap, while liberal in expenditures for every other\\nnecessity. A pure soap is one that contains no free al-\\nkali, and which is composed of vegetable oils. For the\\nface, the best I know of is the French hygienic, but for\\nthe full bath there are a number of less expensive soaps\\nthat are pure and satisfactory. Among these the cotton-\\nseed-oil soaps are inexpensive and safe.", "height": "4356", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0083.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "76 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nTo make a delicious perfume for the bath, one need\\nonly add a teaspoonful of the old-fashioned benzoin mix-\\nture, which is made as follows:\\nTOILET WATER FOR THE BATH\\nRose water 900 grammes.\\nTincture of myrrh 1 10 grammes.\\nTincture of opopanax 10 grammes.\\nEssence of citron 4 grammes.\\nTincture of quillaia, q. s., to make an emulsion.\\nOther good perfumes for the bath may be made as fol-\\nlows\\nHUNGARY WATER\\nPure alcohol 2 quarts.\\nEssence of rosemary (Hungarian,\\nif possible), 28 grammes.\\nLemon peel 14 grammes.\\nEssence of balm-mint 14 grammes.\\nEssence of peppermint 4 grammes.\\nExtract of rose 28 centilitres.\\nMix and let stand for two weeks. Then filter, and it is ready for\\nuse.\\nAROMATIC VINEGAR\\nGum camphor 1 ounce.\\nOil of cloves 1 drachm.\\nOil of cedar and lavender each 40 grains.\\nOil of bergamot and thyme 20 grains.\\nOil of cinnamon 10 grains.\\nGlacial acetic acid pound.\\nMix all, pour into a large stoppered bottle, and agitate until the\\ncamphor is dissolved. This makes a very fine aromatic vinegar for\\nthe bath. Diluted with a little water, it is also most refreshing for\\nthe face.", "height": "4404", "width": "2960", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0084.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "CLEO DE MERODE\\nFRENCH TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(77)", "height": "4356", "width": "2700", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0085.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "JEWISH TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(78)", "height": "4424", "width": "3064", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0086.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY 79\\nTOILET WATER FOR MAKING THE FLESH FIRM AND SMOOTH\\nStrong red-wine vinegar, j\\nTincture of benzoin, j- 200 grammes each.\\nExtract of red roses. J\\nTo the woman who loves a delicious addition to the\\nbath, the following is recommended\\nTOILET VINEGAR OF STRAWBERRIES\\nOne pound of fresh strawberries, well macerated, and one ounce of\\nacetic acid, which is nothing more than very strong vinegar. Let the\\nmixture stand for about twelve days and then strain through a mus-\\nlin cloth. A little of this poured into the daily bath will prove de-\\nlightful and invigorating.\\nTurkish Baths\\nA Turkish bath, taken at the proper time, is to be\\nhighly commended. The preliminary sweating, produced\\nby the hot rooms, brings the dirt and foreign substances\\nto the surface, and the subsequent scrubbing with soap\\nthoroughly cleanses the skin and opens the pores.\\nWomen who indulge in Turkish baths should be ex-\\ntremely careful about going out into the cold immediately\\nafter. As excellent as the Turkish bath is, there is no\\nquestion but that the subject is liable to catch a severe\\ncold, and in many cases I know that such colds have re-\\nsulted in pleurisy or pneumonia. For this reason at least\\nan hour should elapse after the bath is concluded, before\\nthe subject leaves the bathing rooms.", "height": "4360", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0087.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "80 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nSulphur Baths\\nMany skin affections will yield to a course of sulphur\\nbaths when all other treatments have failed. If it be pos-\\nsible, the course should be taken at an establishment\\nwhere medicated baths are given. If impossible, a sulphur\\nbath may be taken at home.\\nHOW TO PREPARE THE SULPHUR BATH AT HOME\\nThe bath may be prepared either by adding one ounce\\nsulphuret of potassium for every ten or twelve gallons of\\nwater used, or one ounce sulphuret of calcium for every\\nfifteen gallons of water.\\nThe sulphur bath is a powerful remedy in every de-\\nscription of skin disease.\\nThe Electric Bath as a Rejuvenator\\nA jaded society woman will find the electric bath her\\ngreat ally in chasing away the marks of time and care.\\nI have seen women look really ten years younger from\\nthe effects of one bath. Of course the refreshening is\\nonly temporary, but women who can afford it should\\ntake two electric baths a week for the tonic and invigor-\\nating effect they give.\\nThe electric bath is a luxury and should be taken in\\none s own home under the care of an experienced elec-\\ntrician and masseuse. The patient sits in a bath two-thirds\\nfull of water into which a generous cup of salt has been\\nthrown, and the electricity is applied through a sponge\\nfrom a battery (galvanic preferred). The current can be", "height": "4416", "width": "3020", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0088.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "ITALIAN TYPE OF BEAUTY (OLD)\\n(81)", "height": "4360", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0089.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "(82)\\nITALIAN TYPE OF BEAUTY (MODERN)", "height": "4408", "width": "3096", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0090.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY 83\\nregulated. After the electricity has been applied, the pa-\\ntient is given a hot scrub which is followed by a thor-\\nough massage treatment from head to foot.\\nThere are, unfortunately, but one or two skillful elec-\\ntricians (women) in New York who understand how to\\ngive these baths successfully. The electric bath should be\\ngiven at the patient s house. It is much wiser to employ\\na professional electrician and masseuse if possible, but un-\\nless a competent person can be secured it is better to\\nlearn how to use a battery oneself. A ten-cell galvanic\\nbattery will cost about $20. This method of applying\\nelectricity is wonderful in its results upon the face, and\\nis an important adjunct to massage in removing wrinkles.\\nThe current should be greatly reduced for the face;\\nnever stronger in my opinion, than three cells. Shocks\\nare blunders, always painful, very often harmful, no mat-\\nter who is responsible, and only a very clumsy electrician\\nwill shock a patient in the bath. There is no excuse\\nfor a shock, which is the result of ignorance or careless-\\nness, and ruinous to nervous women.\\nElectric baths may be taken once a week with excel-\\nlent results where they are intended for a tonic only, and\\nin cases of rheumatism, neuralgia, internal and ovarian\\ntroubles and goitre, the electric bath is often a specific,\\nand may be given daily until no longer required so often.\\nAROMATIC BATH FOR NERVOUS WOMEN\\nSage 25 grammes.\\nRomarin 30 grammes.\\nSerpolet 40 grammes.\\nMenthol 15 grammes.\\nLavender flowers 25 grammes.", "height": "4360", "width": "2696", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0091.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "84 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nMake an infusion in about a quart of boiling water. Let stand till\\ncold. Strain. Pour the liquid into the bath; tie the leaves together\\nin a bag of cheese cloth, and throw the bag into the bath also.\\nBEAUTY BATH\\nThis bath is said to give the skin a wonderful luster\\nand appearance of youth. It is made as follows:\\nRose water 125 grammes.\\nGlycerine 50 grammes.\\nPure alcohol 50 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 50 grammes.\\nBoric acid 25 grammes.\\nDissolve the boric acid in the alcohol, and mix with all the other\\ningredients.\\nUse as a sponge bath for the entire body.\\nGELATINE BATH\\nDissolve 500 grammes of good gelatine in four quarts of water.\\nPut the mixture upon the stove, so that it will melt more rapidly.\\nAdd the entire quantity to the bath.\\nThis bath is used by French women to give firmness\\nto the skin.\\nBATH OF THE ARISTOCRACY\\nTo 100 grammes of tincture of benzoin add 40 grammes of aro-\\nmatic vinegar. This quantity is for a large full bath to which it is to\\nbe added.\\nIn concluding this important chapter, I assert that if I\\nhad but one opportunity to make myself heard in this\\ngreat world I know what I would say:\\nIf you want to be beautiful, healthy, happy, beloved,\\nand live to a good old age, you must be cleanly.\\nYou can t be if you do not take at least one bath each\\nday. Not necessarily one of the luxurious baths before", "height": "4424", "width": "3008", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0092.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "HEALTH AND BEAUTY\\n85\\ndescribed, but a good, plain bath, with plenty of soap, a\\nscrubbing brush and brisk friction after it.\\nBeauty alone will cause a man to fall head over ears\\nin love with a woman. But personal cleanliness and per-\\nfect daintiness will preserve a man s affection and respect\\nas no other attribute can, for even age is charming when\\nclean and wholesome.", "height": "4356", "width": "2672", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0093.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII\\nTHE HAIR\\nHer sunny locks\\nHang on her temples like a golden fleece.\\nMerchant of Venice.\\nT IS well for every one interested in this subject to\\nknow that the root of the human hair, unlike that\\nof a plant or tree, will, even though plucked out\\ncompletely, reproduce itself. Every hair growing\\non a human being is really a modification of the\\ncuticle. Each tiny hair consists of a root, which\\nis planted in the skin in an elongative shaft,\\nwhich projects from the root and the terminal point.\\nThere is a little bulbous enlargement at the extreme\\npoint of the hair root.\\nThis bulb is found in a little sacklike involution of\\nthe cuticle, which is called the follicle. Some hairs are\\nmuch more deeply implanted than others, and are conse-\\nquently capable of far greater resistance. Until the folli-\\n(86)", "height": "4436", "width": "3016", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0094.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "HAIR SHAFT\\n5CALP LINE\\nHAIR ROOT\\nSEBACOOUS GLANDS\\nARRECTOR PIU nUSCLE\\nROOT SHEATHS\\nCONMECTIVE TISSUE.\\nHAIR FOLLICLE\\nHAIR BULB\\nHAIR PAPULA\\nf AT CELLS\\nTHE ANATOMY OF A SINGLE HAIR\\n(87)", "height": "4344", "width": "2680", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0095.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "HOW TO\\nBRUSH THE HAIR (ALWAYS BACK)\\n(88)", "height": "4416", "width": "3064", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0096.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 89\\ncle itself is destroyed, the hair will reproduce itself. The\\norifice of the sebaceous glands opens into the follicle, and\\nin these glands nature prepares the oily substance which\\ngives the hair a gloss and smoothness. When the follicle\\nis dead, the place becomes, of course, what we term bald,\\nand the peculiar smooth, shiny look apparent on many a\\nbald head is a sure proof of the death of the hair folli-\\ncle, but so long as there is life, the fact that the hair is\\nfalling out should be by no means disheartening.\\nThe quantity, quality, and texture of the hair are gov-\\nerned by heredity, temperament, and the general health\\nof the patient, and depend much, of course, upon the care\\nreceived. Nervous people have usually less hair than\\nthose of a more phlegmatic temperament. So long as\\nthe blood circulates with healthy vigor through the scalp,\\nthe hair will be in a greater or less degree luxuriant and\\nstrong. There is always something wrong with the circu-\\nlation in the scalp when the hair begins to fall, and, as\\nwe say, to grow thin. Excepting sickness and hereditary\\nor constitutional causes, the chief reason for falling hair,\\nand indeed for almost all hair ailments, is the lack of\\ncare from which the hair almost universally suffers.\\nThe essential needs of the hair are scrupulous cleanli-\\nness, ventilation and friction. For some inscrutable rea-\\nson, few people are willing to concede that the scalp\\nrequires to be washed often enough to keep it decently\\nclean. I do not hesitate to say that in all ordinary cases\\nthe hair should be washed thoroughly at least once a\\nweek, and oftener if exposed to much dust or dirt, or if\\nthere is an inclination to dandruff.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 5", "height": "4360", "width": "2656", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0097.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "90 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCauses of Unhealthy Hair\\nWhen the hair persistently suffers from loss of vital-\\nity, it is usually from one or more of the following causes\\nuncleanliness, mismanagement, anxiety, disease (particu-\\nlarly dyspepsia), want of exercise, overwork, mental strain,\\nand the use of harmful so-called restorers and tonics.\\nThese same causes frequently produce and increase the\\ngray hairs that appear on a woman s head, one or two at\\na time, at about five and thirty, and a little later usually\\non the heads of the other sex.\\nFor falling of the hair, massage of the scalp (see de-\\ntailed description, page 121) is often wonderful in its ben-\\neficial results. It will frequently arrest the loss at once,\\nor within twenty-four hours, plainly showing that the cir-\\nculation was impaired and required stimulating.\\nThe electric brush by which I mean a brush attached\\nto a battery, as there is no such thing as an electric brush\\nin reality, except one through which a current of electric-\\nity is passed will be of great assistance in stimulating\\nthe circulation of the scalp. In addition to this a good\\ntonic should be used locally, but none of these remedies\\nwill be more than temporarily effective if the general\\nhealth is impaired, particularly if there is a derangement\\nof the digestive organs. In such cases, the subject should\\nat once seek a remedy for the producing cause.\\nThe coloring matter of the hair has been scientifically\\nshown to consist of the mineral ingredients in the pig-\\nment of the cells. These minerals change with age and\\nhealth, and vary in individuals. Very blond hair contains", "height": "4424", "width": "3008", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0098.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 91\\na large proportion of magnesia iron predominates in\\nblack hair chestnut and browns contain a large amount\\nof sulphur. When the iron or sulphur pigment fails, the\\nhair becomes gray, and as iron appears to fail earlier than\\nsulphur, black hair is oftener found turning gray in youth\\nthan any other color. Sulphur comes next, and the mag-\\nnesia resists longer than any of the others, for which reason\\nblond hair often retains its youthful beauty and luster far\\nbeyond middle age.\\nThe reason the golden hair of little children darkens\\nas they grow older is because the hair pigment changes,\\nthe sulphur or iron increasing and becoming more power-\\nful than the magnesia. Because of the demonstration of\\nthese chemicals in the hair pigment, a theory has been\\nexpounded and has attracted many otherwise sensible peo-\\nple to the effect that the lacking minerals of the hair pig-\\nment can be replaced and the hair thus restored to its\\nnatural color by rubbing the scalp with pomatums or\\nlotions highly impregnated with sulphur or iron. I have\\nbeen told many times in most profound seriousness that\\nthe hair bulbs readily absorbed the minerals, with a con-\\nsequent restoration of the original pigment but I have\\nnever seen the miracle effected.", "height": "4348", "width": "2648", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0099.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VIII\\nTHE HAIR Continued\\nThe loose train of thy amber drooping hair.\\nMilton.\\nF POETS and prose writers and painters and every-\\nday men had not from the beginning of the world\\nsung and written and painted and praised golden-\\nhaired beauties, there would be no occasion for\\nthese humiliating remarks of mine. If we had\\nnot had golden-haired sirens flung at us from\\nbabyhood, we never would have been the streaky-\\nheaded frights we are at this moment some of us.\\nBut I want to ask seriously the women who are slaves\\nto the peroxide bottle: Does it pay? Is it worth the\\nprice Does it pay in the first place to enter into any\\nkind of bondage voluntarily? For artificially acquired\\nand maintained golden hair is a bondage compared to\\nwhich Egyptian servitude appears, by all accounts, to have\\nbeen lightsome and diverting.\\n(92)", "height": "4424", "width": "3092", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0100.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "AN ARTIST S MODEL FAMED FOR LUXURIANT HAIR\u00e2\u0080\u0094 No. 1\\n(93)", "height": "4336", "width": "2680", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0101.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "(94)\\nAN ARTIST S MODEL FAMED FOR LUXURIANT HAIR No. 2", "height": "4416", "width": "3100", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0102.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 95\\nTo begin with, as every peroxidian knows to her\\ncost, bleached hair never remains the same shade, and\\nnever by any happy chance looks like the natural golden\\nlocks. It will deceive many men, which is something,\\nbut never another woman.\\nIf once made yellow, it should stay so, one thinks, but\\nit never does. On the contrary, as though it really were\\npossessed of an independent spirit, the original color of\\nthe hair is forever unexpectedly asserting itself just\\nwhen it should not. It has a truly maddening way of\\nshowing up, despite all the skill of the peroxide experts\\non the face of the earth. Those awful telltale, dark roots,\\nthose lustreless tow-colored ends the bleached woman is\\nalways conscious of both. For though you religiously ab-\\nstain from touching any part but the roots of the hair with\\nthe colorless liquid, the roots never say dye, nor yet bleach.\\nThe cause of this failure to bleach the roots is easy\\nto understand. The hair pigment is more copious at the\\nroots and the continuous growth of necessity makes\\nthe dark line at about half an inch from the scalp. The\\ncontrary is the case with the hair from about three\\ninches from the roots, which becomes lighter and more of\\na telltale at each application.\\nAt the very best, a bleached blonde is never easy in\\nher mind for a moment. Either she has just applied the\\nperoxide and feels sure that it is unevenly done, and glar-\\ningly metallic in color, or she is conscious that she needs\\ntouching up about the temples and at the back of the\\nhead one or the other of the telltale spots. She is tied\\ndown to a bottle of peroxide of hydrogen for the rest of", "height": "4364", "width": "2696", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0103.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "96 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nher life, and if, as is devoutly to be hoped for all women,\\nshe is some man s idol, ten to one she has deceived him\\nas to her lovely golden hair, and her slavery is more un-\\nbearable from the awful fear of discovery. Wherever she\\ngoes she must take her peroxide. Just so often she must\\napply it. It takes about one day to do this satisfactorily.\\nBut the self -consciousness of presuming to be something\\none is not, the anxiety concerning the awful telltale spots\\nat the roots, the time and trouble required for the ever-\\nrecurring treatments are only a very minor part of the\\nprice a bleached blonde pays for her locks of gold.\\nJust as soon as a woman bleaches her hair, profes-\\nsional women always excepted, she invites most unpleas-\\nant criticism from both men and women, strangers and\\nacquaintances. When a woman by design makes herself\\nconspicuous, she must accept the consequences. The con-\\nsequences usually are that she is regarded lightly, and al-\\nthough she may be, and often is, a girl or woman of\\nunblemished character, her appearance belies her, and she\\nsuffers the truly awful humiliation of failing to evoke\\nimmediate respect wherever she may happen to be.\\nAt this cost, I find the price paid for the most lovely\\ngolden locks ever produced artificially much too high.\\nBut to those of my sex who insist on yellow hair and\\nwho desire a harmless bleach, I give directions for the\\nprocess\\nPeroxide of Hydrogen\\nGet a bottle of chemically pure peroxide of hydrogen.\\nBefore making the application, the hair should be thor-\\noughly washed and dried. Pour a little of the peroxide", "height": "4424", "width": "3080", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0104.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 97\\ninto a saucer, and apply to the roots of the hair with a\\ntooth brush. You must regulate the color by your own\\nobservation. One application will produce a most notice-\\nable change.\\nNever use ammonia in connection with peroxide of\\nhydrogen. Hair dressers have a fashion of preparing\\nthe hair, as they term it, by bleaching, and in order to\\nhasten the bleaching process, they use ammonia.\\nPeroxide of hydrogen will not injure the hair, if care-\\nfully used, but in connection with ammonia it will, in the\\ncourse of time, destroy the constitution of the hair.\\nThe effect of peroxide is always to make the ends of\\nthe hair very much lighter; the color has been literally\\ntaken out of the hair and there is no way of restoring the\\nbleached ends. You will have to have the hair dyed or\\nstained. I do not think any one can personally keep the\\nhair an even shade by the aid of a bleach, and there is\\nreally no other process that is not injurious. The hair\\ncan be kept slightly brightened by the use of diluted per-\\noxide, but the roots of the hair will always be the origi-\\nnal color as the hair grows out.\\nIn order to keep your hair a uniform color when you\\nare using an artificial preparation, you should have the\\nservices of some one who understands the matter thor-\\noughly. Nothing can prevent the hair from growing out\\nits original color, and there is always a difference for about\\na half inch from the root. Only a person very skillful in\\nthe art can touch up the roots successfully.\\nTo turn bleached blond hair back to its original color,\\nhave it dyed or let it grow out its natural color. After it", "height": "4344", "width": "2680", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0105.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "98 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nhas grown out, if you choose to bleach it again, you can\\ndo so without injury, but it would not do to rebleach or\\nattempt to rebleach the dyed hair.\\nPeroxide of hydrogen is also a bleach for the eyebrows.\\nIt would first lighten the color and finally would turn\\nthem a golden shade.\\nI do not think the peroxide treatment adapted to the\\neyebrows.\\nPeroxide of hydrogen diluted half and half with water\\nwill turn dark brown hair an auburn shade.\\nWhen muddy brown hair is at its best it is not beau-\\ntiful. When it loses its lustre it is extremely unbecoming\\nand robs a woman of color and style. It can be bright-\\nened by washing it, after a thorough shampoo, with a tea-\\nspoonful of chemically pure peroxide of hydrogen, diluted\\nin a teacupful of water. Wet the hair thoroughly with it\\nand fan it until dry.\\nGray Hair\\nPrematurely gray hair is usually an inheritance from\\nfather to daughter or from mother to son, or it may come\\nfrom a generation or two back. Many people ask me for\\nsomething which will change black hair to silver white,\\nand do away with the yellow shade. There is no harm-\\nless preparation which will effect this desirable result. I\\nhave not seen a homemade dye which was not plainly\\nperceptible and though I give recipes for them, I do\\nnot advise their use when a first-class proprietary arti-\\ncle can be obtained.", "height": "4384", "width": "3080", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0106.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 99\\nI give a formula for a hair dye, but I want to say\\ncandidly that I think homemade hair dyes are rarely, if\\never, successful. In order to make a thoroughly good\\nhair dye, the services of a skillful chemist are required.\\nHAIR DYE\\nPyrogalic acid, one -quarter of an ounce distilled water (hot), one\\nand one-half ounces. Dissolve. When the solution is cool add one-\\nhalf ounce of alcohol. Pyrogalic acid is extracted from Chinese nut-\\ngalls. The hair should always be thoroughly washed before applying\\nthe dye.\\nI repeat that while this is an excellent hair dye, I do\\nnot think it is successful as usually made by an amateur.\\nTo stain the hair slightly the above dye may be diluted with two\\nor three times its weight of soft water and a little more alcohol.\\nA ONCE-FAMOUS HAIR DYE\\nPrecipitated sulphur 1 drachm.\\nAcetate of lead 1 drachm.\\nRose water 4 ounces.\\nThis dye was famous during the Mexican War, and its\\ninventor made a fortune out of it. 1 do not myself be-\\nlieve in lead hair dyes.\\nThe Turkish Method of Applying Henna Leaves to\\nTHE Hair\\nIn Turkey the women very much affect the Titian-red\\ntresses which are to-day so much in vogue in America.\\nThe reddish tint is produced by henna leaves as in\\nAmerica, but the Oriental method of applying the color is\\ndifferent.", "height": "4364", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0107.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "100 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe Turkish women grind the henna leaves to an impalpable pow-\\nder. They make a paste of this powder by mixing enough boiling\\nwater to it to produce a thin paste. While yet warm the mixture is\\napplied to the hair and allowed to remain on the head from a quarter\\nof an hour to two hours, according to the shade of red desired. The\\nhenna is removed by rinsing in several clear waters.\\nMy own opinion, as I have announced it previously on\\nthe subject, is that the best results are obtained by patro-\\nnizing one of the v^ell-known manufacturers or hair dressers\\nwho make a specialty of coloring the hair any shade the\\ncustomer desires.", "height": "4400", "width": "3116", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0108.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX\\nTHE HAIR Continued\\nFair tresses man s imperial race ensnare,\\nAnd beauty draws us by a single hair. Pope.\\nCURF, or dandruff, unless in a most aggravated\\nform, is not a disease. It is the result of neg-\\nlect, or, in plain English, uncleanliness. Scurf,\\nor furfura, is a natural and healthy formation\\nand very frequently is produced by rapidly\\ngrowing and very luxuriant hair. You may\\nkeep dandruff from accumulating, but you can-\\nnot prevent its formation. When the scurf is excessive,\\ndespite great cleanliness, it denotes an unhealthy condi-\\ntion of the scalp. In such cases, the following lotion may\\nbe used, but always in conjunction with very frequent\\nwashings:\\nExtract of rosemary 1 drachm.\\nTincture of cantharides 1 drachm.\\nSolution of carbonate of potassium 1^ drachms.\\nDistilled water 4 fluid ounces.\\n(101)", "height": "4364", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0109.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "102 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhere there is ibching with the scurf or dandruff, the\\ncause is sometimes found to be parasitical. In such cases,\\nwashing the head frequently with a good bichloride of\\nmercury soap is most effective. This soap can be pur-\\nchased at any drug store.\\nThe following oubstances are also employed for removing\\nparasites Naphthol, mercurial ointment, tobacco, cocculus-\\nindicus, pyrethrum, carbolic acid, and sulphur. Any of these\\nremedies can be procured in the form of powders, lotions,\\nand ointments, and some in the form of soap. A good drug-\\ngist will be your best guide in the matter. Naphthol and\\ncorrosive sublimate are well adapted for the cleanly removal\\nof the parasites. Pure naphthol and pure kerosene are too\\ninflammable and malodorous to be recommended as applica-\\ntions. If used, they should be rendered less dangerous by\\nmixing them with olive oil. Soda, borax, vinegar, alcohol, and\\ndiluted acetic acid are useful also for destroying the nits.\\nAllies of these parasites in their invasion are a low\\ntone of the system, induced by poor and insufficient diet,\\nalso bad ventilation, and other unhygienic conditions.\\nThese constitute, under the circumstance, a true disease,\\nand it is necessary in such cases that the sufferer should\\nbe invigorated by tonics, and at the same time that all\\ndepressing influences be removed.\\nVIGIER S REMEDY FOR PARASITES\\nDoctor Vigier declares that the following formula will\\ndestroy parasitical life. It may be used upon the face or\\nhead:\\nBichloride of mercury in solution 5 grammes.\\nGlycerine 100 grammes.", "height": "4388", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0110.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 103\\nTO KEEP THE HAIR AND SCALP HEALTHY\\nTo prevent dandruff always use scrupulously clean hair\\nbrushes and do not use a fine comb. Do not wear any-\\nthing which will heat the head. The following is recom-\\nmended as a most excellent preventive of dandruff:\\nTincture of cantharides 1 ounce.\\nLiquid ammonia 1 drachm.\\nGlycerine ounce.\\nOil thyme J drachm.\\nRosemary oil drachm.\\nMix all together with six ounces of rose water. Rub the scalp\\nthoroughly with this preparation until no further evidence of dandruff\\nis noticed.\\nTo keep the hair and scalp both in a healthy condi-\\ntion, it is necessary that they should be kept scrupulously\\nclean.\\nSHAMPOO FOR DANDRUFF\\nYolk of one egg, one pint of hot rain water, one ounce of spirit\\nof rosemary beat the mixture up thoroughly, and use it warm, rubbing\\nit well into the skin of the head. Rinse thoroughly in several waters.\\nThis wash is good for dandruff where the ordinary shampoo fails.\\nTO CLEANSE THE SCALP\\nThis is by no means easy with some constitutions.\\nLately I have heard of the wonderful effect produced by\\nrubbing the scalp with a fresh lime. I advise subjects\\nwith obstinate cases to try this\\nDivide the fruit in two, and as you need it, cut it for a fresh sur-\\nface. At the end of a week wash the head with a yolk of an egg\\nbeaten in half a pint of warm water afterward rinse thoroughly, and\\nrepeat the whole process at the end of another week, if necessary.", "height": "4360", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0111.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "104 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nEczema of the Scalp\\nA good remedy for eczema of the scalp can be pre-\\npared as follows\\nCocoa butter, twenty grammes spermaceti, ten grammes salicylic\\nacid, two grammes. Mix in pomade. Then apply to the affected\\nspots. Allow the pomade to remain on all night. Wear a nightcap,\\nif possible, to prevent soiling the bed linen. In the morning wash the\\nwhole head carefully and gently with a pure hygienic soap and warm\\nwater. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat this operation night and\\nmorning as long as necessary.\\nFalling Hair\\nWhere there is great physical debility and a great fail-\\nure of health in connection with the falling hair, a course\\nof tonic medicines taken internally is often very service-\\nable. A few excellent hair tonics to be used externally\\nare made as follows:\\nFOR FALLING HAIR\\nPhenic acid 2 grammes.\\nTincture of nux vomica 7^ grammes.\\nTincture of red cinchona 30 grammes.\\nTincture of cantharides 2 grammes.\\nCologne 120 grammes.\\nSweet almond oil 60 grammes.\\nApply to the roots of the hair with a soft sponge once or twice\\na day. This lotion is especially good for very dry hair.\\nTHE JABARONDI TONIC FOR FALLING HAIR\\nThis tonic is not a very late discovery. It has been\\nused for some time and is excellent for falling hair. It\\nis made as follows", "height": "4404", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0112.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 105\\nHjdrochlorate of pilocarpine 6 grains.\\nTincture of jabarondi 4 drachms.\\nSpirit of rosemary .2 drachms.\\nYellow vaseline 4 ounces.\\nAlcohol .4 ounces.\\nIt must be applied to the scalp every night. Rub it in thor-\\noughly.\\nWHEN THE HAIR HAS FALLEN OUT AFTER FEVER\\nThis is very successful when the hair falls out after a\\nfever:\\nCologne 8 ounces.\\nTincture of cantharides 1 ounce.\\nOil of English lavender drachm.\\nOil of rosemary drachm.\\nApply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day.\\nIt is positively necessary that the scalp should be kept\\nclean. Shampoo at least once a week.\\nCASTOR-OIL HAIR TONIC\\nCastor oil 80 grammes.\\nBay rum 80 grammes.\\nTincture of cantharides 10 grammes.\\nTwisting the hair tightly at night is a very injurious\\nhabit. The hair needs ventilation, and to prevent the\\nfree circulation of the air through its roots not only\\ninterferes with the growth of new hair, but weakens the\\nroots of the old. Every woman should brush her hair\\ncarefully at night before going to bed and braid it loosely\\nfor the night toilet.\\nA child s hair should be washed at least once a week.\\nThe olive-oil soap shampoo mentioned on page 520 is best", "height": "4356", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0113.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "106 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nfor children s hair First wet the hair thoroughly with\\nwarm water, then rub the shampoo mixture well into the\\nroots. Rinse thoroughly in several waters. Then care-\\nfully dry.\\nForeign Remedies for Falling Hair\\nDoctor Monin, the celebrated French hygienist, highly\\nextols the following preparation for falling hair:\\nWhite vaseline 40 grammes.\\nCastor oil 20 grammes.\\nGallic acid 5 grammes.\\nEssence of lavender 10 drops.\\nFor premature baldness, I have tried Professor Lassar s\\ntreatment with great success. The hair is first washed\\nwith a good tar soap. It is afterwards rinsed with warm\\nwater, and then a cooler water. The hair is partially\\ndried, and the following wash applied with friction to the\\nscalp\\nSolution of corrosive sublimate (5 150 grammes.\\nGlycerine and cologne water each 50 grammes.\\nAfter thoroughly rubbing this solution into the scalp,\\nrub it with alcohol to which a little 5 per cent, napthol\\nhas been added. Let the hair dry, after which the scalp\\nmust again be rubbed with a liniment made as follows:\\nSalicylic acid 2 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 3 grammes.\\nSweet almond oil 100 grammes.", "height": "4412", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0114.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X\\nTHE HAIR Continued\\nYou should be women,\\nAnd yet your beards forbid me to interpret\\nThat you are so. Macbeth.\\nERHAPs you think there is nothing pathetic in\\nthe condition of a woman who, having com-\\nmitted no sin, finds herself the object of a\\nlifelong punishment in the shape of a mous-\\ntache.\\nYes, I know it is the custom to laugh at\\nwomen with beards, but you may believe me\\nwhen I tell you that the poor creatures thus disfigured\\nweep and suffer, and sometimes have actually died from\\nthe mortification and shame. I may also add that of all\\nthe punishments meted out to our sex, the one that is the\\nugliest to bear superfluous hair is the one that prac-\\ntically defies science, and for which up to this writing\\nthere is no certain cure, electrolysis excepted.", "height": "4364", "width": "2708", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0115.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "108 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThere are innumerable depilatories which will tempo-\\nrarily rid one of the nuisance, and there is the electric\\nneedle which will kill the root, if it happens to strike in\\nthe very center. When one considers the size of even a\\ncoarse hair, and the chances of striking the exact center\\nof that hair follicle with a needle guided by the very\\nsteadiest hand, one imperfectly realizes the chances for\\nfailure and success. Besides this, electrolysis is very\\nexpensive, and fate has dealt moustaches to the rich and\\npoor with equal lavishness.\\nOne thing we may be thankful for in this matter. It\\nisn t much, but it is a step in the right direction. We no\\nlonger supinely submit to moustaches and bearded chins and\\ndie a thousand deaths daily under the impression that they\\nare special dispensations of Providence. Moustaches upon\\nwomen s faces are the effect of a cause, just as everything\\nelse is. One of these days we shall find out the cause per-\\nhaps. Until that blessed hour arrives, the women who are\\nafflicted with beards may keep fairly busy dealing with effect.\\nYou may not credit my assertion that in your moth-\\ner s and my time, it was considered, so to speak, flying in\\nthe face of Providence for a woman to try and get rid of\\na facial defect, no matter how disfiguring. But I assure\\nyou it was so.\\nWhen I was in the West, a year or two ago, I spoke\\nto a charming old friend of mine on this and kindred\\ntopics, and I asked her if the women of her day looked\\nas pretty at forty as those of the present time. And she\\nreplied: Why, women of sixty-five to-day don t look as\\nold as we did at forty.", "height": "4388", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0116.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 109\\nNow, this sweet old acquaintance of mine is nearly\\neighty years of age, and she is a saint, if ever there were\\none. It is said that she has not missed a Wednesday\\nevening Methodist prayer meeting but once since she ex-\\nperienced a change of heart when she was sixteen, and\\nthat one time was the Wednesday of the great Chicago\\nfire.\\nShe said that she felt mad clean through to this hour\\nwhen she thought of a certain beautiful schoolmate of\\nhers who was the flower of the flock until about her eight-\\neenth year, when a growth of superfluous hair appeared\\non her face, so disfiguring that she secluded herself and\\nliterally broke her heart over her affliction.\\nWhen a worldly aunt suggested seeing a surgeon, and\\nendeavored to get the deformity removed, the girl s father,\\nwho was a deacon in the church, held up his hands in\\nholy horror, and declared that some awful punishment\\nwould be meted out to people who attempted to interfere\\nwith the Lord s will.\\nIf the Lord gave Charity Ross whiskers, he said, He\\nhad some good reason. Most likely she was settin too\\nmuch store by her good looks and must be took down.\\nPoor Charity Ross She was took down sure enough,\\nand sleeps in a narrow grave, dead at twenty-two from a\\nbroken heart, because of this affliction.\\nMy old friend, when she related this story to me, was\\nfilled even yet with righteous wrath, and she said with\\nflushed face and sparkling eyes:\\nHattie, don t you ever fail to improve a woman s\\nlooks when you can, and do help the poor things with", "height": "4352", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0117.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "110 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nmoustaches. It is missionary work just as much as any\\nother.\\nNow I should not tell you the truth if I were to say\\nthat by the use of ordinary depilatories you can do more\\nthan keep the affliction in abeyance, but this certainly\\ncan be done. There are a lot of absolutely useless depila-\\ntories upon the market, and there are several that will\\naccomplish the temporary removal of superfluous hair\\nwithout pain or danger, if properly applied, and which, if\\ntemporary, answer every purpose, inasmuch as they may\\nbe used whenever required. They are inexpensive, rela-\\ntively speaking, and do not require the services of a phy-\\nsician or dermatologist.\\nElectrolysis, when successful, is beyond all question the\\nsure cure for superfluous hair, but, unfortunately, the elec-\\ntric needle fails in about ninety cases in one hundred; that\\nis to say, the operation of destroying the hair root is so\\nextremely delicate, that the needle, even when directed by\\nscientific and expert hands, strikes the center of the hair\\nroot only about ten times in a hundred. The operation,\\nwhen unsuccessful, may be repeated over and over, and\\nit has been in one case within my knowledge until every\\nhair root has been killed, but it required infinite patience,\\nmonths of precious time, great endurance, as it is very\\npainful, and the cost was for the treatment to which I\\nrefer, five hundred dollars. If you conclude to try elec-\\ntrolysis, go to the best specialist, or you may add a collec-\\ntion of white scars to your growth of superfluous hair.\\nIn giving a formula for a depilatory which is effective\\nand harmless when properly applied, I wish to say that", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0118.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 111\\nthe compounding of this preparation said to be the in-\\nvention of Doctor Boetger should only he intrusted to a\\nfirst-class chemist. This depilatory is highly praised by\\nDoctor Monin, the eminent French authority. It is made\\nby passing a current of sulphureted hydrogen through a\\nthick layer of quicklime until the latter is thoroughly\\nsaturated. After this take of\\nSulphydrate of quicklime 20 grammes.\\nGlycerinated starch 10 grammes.\\nPulverized starch 10 grammes.\\nEssence of lemon 10 drops.\\nApply a little of the compound lightly to the afilicted\\nskin. Let it remain twenty or thirty minutes. Wash off\\ngently with warm water. If it begins to smart before the\\ntime mentioned, wash it off. The hair will come with it.\\nApply a little cold cream to allay any redness or irrita-\\ntion. This preparation, I beg to repeat, is dangerous, and\\nshould be carefully kept where children cannot reach it.\\nTo remove superfluous hair from the arms, get an ordi-\\nnary five-cent cake of pumice stone. This is not pumice\\nsoap, but the regular old-fashioned pumice stone. To\\nremove the hair, rub the skin afflicted with the super-\\nfluous growth, and the pumice stone will wear the hair\\noff. Be careful not to be too heroic and irritate the skin.\\nIn case the arms are made red by this treatment, use a\\nlittle cold cream. The pumice stone is best used on the\\narms at night before retiring. The hair on the arms may\\nbe kept so close to the skin by this method that it can-\\nnot be seen. Of course the hair will grow again, and must\\nbe removed from time to time.", "height": "4352", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0119.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "112\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nPeroxide of hydrogen will, if used frequently, bleach\\nthe hair upon the arms, and if mixed half and half with\\nammonia will in time destroy the constitution of the hair.\\nIt will not prevent the growth of new hair, however, which\\nwill appear the original color.\\nRecently the old-fashioned method of removing super-\\nfluous hair by means of the tweezers has been revived. It\\nis said that the application of a little subnitrate of bis-\\nmuth and glycerine to the parts immediately after the\\nhair had been plucked out by the aid of the tweezers,\\nwill prevent the reappearance of the growth. The plaster-\\nstick composed of Burgundy pitch and beeswax is another\\nmechanical and temporary remedy. The stick is heated\\nto a melting point, clapped on the hairy part, allowed to\\nremain in contact with the skin till cold, then sharply\\nwithdrawn, bringing the hair with it.", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0120.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "DnDDDDbs;\\nDDDDDDDDDDaDQ,\\nCHAPTER XI\\nTHE HAIR Concluded\\nShine out, little head, running over with curls. Tennyson.\\nAD Nature been always the kind dame we love\\nto paint her, she had bestowed a lovelock or\\ntwo upon each of us, and in so doing she\\nwould have eliminated from our summer one\\nof its most distressing accompaniments the\\nwithered bang, the limp and straightened Hy-\\nperion curl a la mode of to-day. The gener-\\nally done-up appearance we present when the curl has\\ndeparted from our forelocks is one of our summer agonies,\\nand too well we know how the glory of the hair dresser\\n(be he never so skillful) is eclipsed in one brief half-hour\\nof seaside fog.\\nIt is said that persons with naturally curling hair are\\nalways possessed of more lovable and sweeter natures\\nthan those with wiry or straight capillary adornments,\\nand small credit to them, say I. On most occasions in\\n(113)", "height": "4352", "width": "2700", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0121.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "114 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthis pilgrimage, the fact that we are looking our best is\\na wonderful incentive to good behavior, and the woman\\nwith natural curls can discount her straight-haired sister\\nin the way of appearances many a time and oft. She\\nknows it why should she not be amiable Think of the\\npicture a curly-haired woman makes of herself in the surf,\\nwith her tiny ringlets blowing and coquetting at every\\nturn. Why should she not reflect complacency of spirit?\\nLook at the straight-haired miserable as she endeavors\\nto sneak to her bath-house from her dip, the one thought\\nuppermost in her mind expressed in her stern and wretched\\ncountenance: Oh, my hair, my awful, awful hair, with\\nevery bit of wave taken out of it. How like a fright I\\nlook!\\nThe sad sea wave is a merry, reckless trifle compared\\nto the somber, straight-haired, drenched, and desperate-\\nlooking woman bather. And the hops and yachting par-\\nties What chance is there for her of the wiry locks if\\nthere be a curly-haired girl about a girl whose hair\\ngrows prettier, more irresistible, more dangerously attrac-\\ntive from the very exposure to fogs or exercise, that ruin\\nthe looks of the lass with the straight wisps where crimps\\nhave been.\\nIt would have been more just, I consider, to have let\\nthe beauty of waving locks go unattended by special vir-\\ntues.\\nThe straight-haired martyrs should have been at least\\nthe recipients of the sweetness that is alleged to belong\\nto curls. If we can t be beautiful we ought in justice to\\nhave been created sweet of temper.", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0122.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 115\\nWhen it comes to artificial methods for making the\\nstraight hair crooked, or to be more correct, wavy, why-\\nthere are many so-called curling fluids, curlines, and the\\nlike.\\nThey are rarely satisfactory, as they all contain gela-\\ntinous ingredients and result in giving the hair a stiffness\\nof texture that is disagreeable and unbecoming in most\\ncases.\\nI give a formula for a curline, but I must frankly say\\nI prefer the curls formed by the old-fashioned rubber curl-\\ners or even by the curling iron.\\nNaturally the curling iron must be used with discre-\\ntion, and care must be taken not to burn the hair.\\nAs good a curline as any is made as follows:\\nGum arable (finest white) 1 ounce.\\nMoist sugar (good) ounce.\\nPure water (hot) pint.\\nDissolve. To the solution, when cold, add of\\nRectified spirit 2 fluid ounces.\\nCorrosive sublimate (powdered) 6 grains.\\nSal ammoniac (powdered) 6 grains,\\nthe last two being dissolved in the spirit before the admixture. Lastly,\\nadd enough water to make the whole measure a pint, with a little\\nesprit de rose, eau de cologne, or eau de lavande, to scent it. The\\nhair is moistened with the fluid before putting it in papers or papil-\\nlotes, or using irons.\\nHair Curled to Last Three Weeks\\nA few years back a hair dresser in Paris acquired re-\\nnown for a process of permanently curling or waving the\\nhair. The coiffeur liberally advertised, and the rush to his", "height": "4344", "width": "2692", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0123.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "116 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nestablishment was something amazing to see. Women\\nwaited hours for even an opportunity to make an ap-\\npointment for the permanent curling, and the payment\\nof sometimes ten times the advertised price (five dollars)\\nwould secure a few hours advance in the longed-for serv-\\nices of the besieged hair dresser, but more frequently en-\\ngagements were made six weeks ahead. It was certain\\nthat a fortune as well as fame awaited the individual\\nwho had invented the process for keeping the hair per-\\nmanently in curl.\\nBeing in Paris I availed myself of an opportunity ar-\\ndently desired to secure waving ringlets, and, after pleading\\nearnestly, almost tearfully, with the coiffeur s secretary\\n(if you please), I was told that as an especial favor I might\\nhave my hair treated one week from the date of the re-\\nception of my prayer, if I could be, without fail, at the\\nhair dresser s establishment at six in the morning. I\\neagerly promised, and I smile now as I look back on that\\nsummer morning and remember with what zeal I arose\\nat daybreak and how to the minute I kept my appoint-\\nment. The thought of waving tresses, the hope of never\\nagain having to wrestle with hot irons and alcohol lamps\\nwas exciting, and gave quite a zest to life.\\nWhen I reached the celebrated M. Eugene s shop, I was\\nushered into a little room. My hair was quickly taken\\ndown, and brushed by a young woman assistant. It was\\nthen thoroughly moistened with a liquid, after which, with\\na dramatic gesture, the young person walked to the door\\nat the rear of the room and said Madame est prete,\\nMonsieur!", "height": "4416", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0124.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "THE HAIR 117\\nImmediately a small, dark-haired man appeared, bear-\\ning two sets of curling irons and a little stove. The irons\\nwere heated, and with many a twist and wrench, every\\nblessed hair on my egotistical head was given a curl.\\nThe operation was neither painless nor soothing. Quite\\nthe contrary. The odor of the liquid as it dried beneath\\nthe heat of the iron was offensive. I wondered if I should\\nbe permanently odorous as well as curled. It was too\\nhigh a price to pay even for ringlets. The coiffeur was a\\nstern and majestic gentleman who wielded a curling iron\\nas a king his scepter. I dared not remonstrate.\\nWhen the curling was over, his majesty departed, and\\nI was allowed to cool; then my hair was combed and\\ndressed, and I can truthfully say it was curled. I could\\nnot have believed there was so much curl in twenty heads\\nof hair. I seemed to have developed suddenly a most\\nwonderful case of mature rickets. My head was four times\\nits size, and I reflected with bitterness that it was guar-\\nanteed permanent. When I reached my hotel, my travel-\\ning companions shrieked with glee at my Circassian Lady\\nhirsute adornment, and they sang me Lear s nonsense\\nrhyme about a bird that was three times as big as a\\nbush. I was as anxious to get rid of my curls as I had\\nbeen to acquire them. I accordingly sent for an every-\\nday hair dresser, and had my hair thoroughly washed.\\nAlas! It was permanently curled and no mistake; and\\nlater when an eminent French chemist called, and I hys-\\nterically explained the sudden swelling of my head, and\\ntold him what I had done, I was not much consoled to\\nhave him tell me that my hair had been treated with the", "height": "4352", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0125.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "118 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nprocess used by the pelt moDgers (somewhat modified) to\\nobtain and fix a curl in certain skins, and called a secret-\\nage. The method is to moisten the hair for one-half its\\nlength with the secretage which is made as follows:\\nSECRETAGE OR PERMANENT CURLING FLUID\\nQuicksilver 1 drachm.\\nAcqua fortis 2 ounces,\\ndissolve; dilute before using to half its volume with an\\nequal volume of water. Care should be taken that neither\\nthe liquid nor the moistened hair, until it has been sub-\\nsequently washed, touches the skin. The moistened hair\\nis loosely adjusted into the desired curls by the aid of\\noiled curl papers (this was not done in my case) and per-\\nmitted to dry; after five or six hours, the hair is washed\\nand dried, and on being gently combed it will curl or wave.\\nThe hair will retain the curl or wave four or five weeks.\\nIn my own case it lasted a little over three, despite fre-\\nquent washings.\\nThe process is highly objectionable, and cannot but be\\ninjurious to the hair, although it seems at times to have\\nno immediate harmful effect on vigorous hair. It will per-\\nmanently curl. I have proved that fact.", "height": "4400", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0126.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "No. 1 FIRST MOVEMENT IN SCALP MASSAGE\\n(119)", "height": "4344", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0127.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "No. 2\u00e2\u0080\u0094 MASSAGE GENTLY IN LINE OF PART\\n(120)", "height": "4420", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0128.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XII\\nSCALP MASSAGE\\nGray hairs are death s blossoms. Schiller.\\n^HEN the hair falls out or gets very dry and\\nbreaks; when it is excessively oily; when the\\nroots are always damp from perspiration, there\\nis something wrong with the circulation.\\nAs before stated, proper scalp massage will,\\nin many cases, bring back a normal circula-\\ntion, and this means that the hair will re-\\nceive nourishment and ventilation which must stimulate\\ngrowth and arrest decline and decay.\\nIn giving scalp massage, first loosen the hair and part\\nit in the center. Place the hands in the position shown\\nin the first picture and gently push the fingers into the\\nscalp and forward at the same time. Repeat this opera-\\ntion all over the head until every portion of the scalp has\\nbeen massaged.\\nThe second movement is a rolling motion. As shown in\\nthe second picture, the operator places the tips of the fingers\\n(121)", "height": "4364", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0129.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "122 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\non the scalp and presses gently but firmly in a rotary motion.\\nThis movement also must be repeated all over the scalp.\\nThe third illustration shows the ripple movement. The\\noperator s hands are first held above the subject s head.\\nThen to make the movement the hands are brought\\nsharply down on the scalp, the fingers closing at the in-\\nstant they touch.\\nTo relieve a nervous headache a stroking movement is\\nemployed, always from the face toward the back of the\\nhead, as indicated in the fourth picture.\\nMassage at the base of the brain, using the first two\\nmovements, as here described, will frequently relieve the\\ncongestive headaches from which so many persons who\\nlead sedentary lives suffer.\\nIn brushing the hair make always a side stroke. Do\\nnot brush the hair directly down from the roots. Brush\\nfrom the front, off the brow, as in the fifth illustration.\\nPart the hair down the center of the back and brush\\nfrom the scalp toward the front.\\nScalp massage bids fair to supersede the old heroic\\ntreatments for baldness or prospective baldness, and in\\nmany cases where the hair falls out because of a nervous,\\nheated condition of the scalp, a single course of scalp mas-\\nsage will, without lotions or tonics, as they are called, re-\\nstore the hair to health and vigor.\\nAs in facial massage, great care should be taken in\\nchoosing your masseuse. An iguorant operator can do\\nmuch harm, and unfortunately there are many who give\\nwhat they are pleased to call a scalp massage treatment\\nfrom which the unhappy victim derives no benefit, but\\npays a good price for a positive injury.", "height": "4404", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0130.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "No. 3 THIRD MOVEMENT IN SCALP MASSAGE RIPPLE MOVEMENT\\n(123)", "height": "4344", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0131.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "No. 4\u00e2\u0080\u0094 MASSAGE TREATMENT FOR HEADACHE\\n(124)\\n1", "height": "4392", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0132.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0080\u00a2:.\\\\4 9 fflLBERT^^y\\nCHAPTER XIII\\nTHE COMPLEXION\\nThy complexion shifts to strange eflects.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Measure for Measure.\\nixTY out of every one hundred American girls\\nhave poor skins. When I say poor skins I am\\ntrying to soften what seems to be a very harsh\\nstatement.\\nWhat I really mean to say is, that out of\\none hundred youthful faces taken at random\\nfrom any congregation of young people, at the\\nmost generous estimate, about forty per cent, will be free\\nfrom the blemishes we all know and loathe, and are con-\\ntent to abide by and with pimples and other equally\\ndisgusting accompaniments of an ill-conditioned skin.\\nAnd this state of affairs exists despite the fact that\\ntwenty millions of dollars are annually expended in the\\nUnited States for cosmetics, facial treatments and alleged\\ncures for an almost national defect.\\n(125)", "height": "4380", "width": "2788", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0133.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "126 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAmerican women are, as a rule, not stupid yet they\\n,are singularly gullible on this one point.\\nEvery thinking person must know that a bad skin is\\nthe result of an internal disorder or external neglect.\\nExternal neglect may be summed up in one word un-\\ncleanliness. Internal troubles, I grieve to say, may be\\ntoo often fastened on the all-prevailing pie of our beloved\\nland.\\nWhen I say pie I generalize. I mean to include all\\nthose soft, pasty, creamy, delectable stomach-destroyers\\nwhich the girls of to-day are offering to their stomachs\\nweek in and week out, in place of food that will nourish\\nand produce red corpuscles instead of white.\\nFrequently I go to a dairy kitchen near my office for\\na hurried luncheon, and I am always spellbound for the\\nfirst few moments by the apparently irresistible, swift-\\nrecurring wave of pie-eating that pervades the entire\\nestablishment.\\nLong ago our Puritan ancestors did some of us an evil\\nturn by way of saleratus bread and soda biscuit. Too\\nmuch saleratus will upset the best little stomach in the\\nworld, and when a good little stomach is insulted day by\\nday, it retorts by throwing out through the blood, a lot\\nof nasty little pimples, with a sort of Now, there\\nAnd our grandmothers are somewhat to blame for the\\nunhealthy pallor they bequeathed our mothers, which was\\ncaused by the bread of the ante-yeast period.\\nNowadays we can get good, wholesome bread, even the\\nleast of us and girls, if you could but believe it, a six\\nmonths course of bread-and-milk luncheons would so im-", "height": "4424", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0134.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 127\\nprove most of your skins, as to make you the wonder of\\nall the neighborhood not in the secret.\\nIf you were on the second floor of a dwelling house,\\nand a large spot appeared upon the ceiling, you would go\\nto the third floor and find out what had caused the dis-\\ncoloration.\\nIf you found your little sister seated on the floor di-\\nrectly over the spot peacefully and contentedly pouring\\nmolasses in a steady stream out of a pretty molasses jug,\\nwould you apply a kalsomine or a wash to the spot be-\\nlow, or would you insist that nothing could remove the\\ndiscolored spot till the small girl above gave over pour-\\ning molasses on the floor?\\nThat is about the way it is.\\nPie, Boston cream puffs, chocolate eclaires, and all the\\nrest of them. Oh! if you but knew the havoc they make\\nwith your pretty little noses, your saucy chins, and inno-\\ncent brows. It is just the case of a little girl pouring\\nmolasses on the floor above.\\nFOSSATI CREAM FOR PIMPLES\\nLanolin 5 grammes.\\nSweet almond oil 5 grammes.\\nSulphur precipitate 5 grammes.\\nOxide of zinc 2^ grammes.\\nExtract of violet 10 drops.\\nApply a very little of the cream to the pimples wait until the pim-\\nples are cured before using the face brush, which might irritate them.\\nMany women are troubled each Spring with an out-\\nbreak of pimples, and the skin of others turns a muddy,\\nyellowish, and disagreeable hue.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 7", "height": "4360", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0135.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "128 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe causes for both conditions are practically the\\nsame. The subject has violated the rules of hygiene\\nthrough her diet. Tea, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, sweets,\\npork, and buckwheat cakes are the things to leave off. A\\nregimen consisting of fruits, green vegetables, celery, water\\ncress, spinach, and the like, and just as much hot water as\\ncan be comfortably drank, is the cure.\\nSulphur soap is used frequently with good effect in\\nsome cases. There are several good sulphur soaps procur-\\nable at any first-class drug store.\\nA celebrated French woman, noted for her beauty, de-\\nclares that she will cure any ordinary skin eruptions\\nknown under the general term of pimples, by vegetable\\ndiet, saline purgatives, ointment of tar, and lanolin and\\nsulphur baths.\\nI indorse this regimen heartily, although I am obliged\\nto say that very few American women, in my opinion,\\nwould follow it strictly and persistently long enough to\\nexperience its good effect.", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0136.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIV\\nTHE COMPLEXION Continued\\nThere s too great testimony in your complexion. As You Like It.\\n^HOSE of my readers who are blessed with skins\\nas clear as morning roses newly washed with\\ndew can but faintly imagine the wretched-\\nness of the girl or woman who, through no\\nfault of her own, awakens every day of her\\nlife to the sickening realization that she is\\nunsightly often really repulsive, because of\\nthis disfiguring skin blemish called freckles. I suppose I\\nhave seen and treated as many bad cases of skin disease\\nas any one other person in this country during the past\\nfifteen years, and the result of my experience is that all\\nskin troubles can be cured where there is no inherited\\ntaint, and that even in these unfortunate cases the com-\\nplexion may be greatly improved. The least offensive of\\nthese pigmentary discolorations is lentigo, or freckles.\\n(129)", "height": "4352", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0137.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "130 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCertainly these brown, oval-shaped spots dotted about the\\nface and hands are not pretty, but they do not look un-\\nclean as blackheads do, nor do they reflect disease as\\nscrofulous pimples must, but they are disagreeable and\\nunpleasant.\\nFreckles are divided into two classes summer freck-\\nles, which usually fall to the lot of fair-skinned light or\\nauburn-haired girls, and are produced almost instantly\\non exposure to strong light, disappearing in a little while\\nif the subject remains indoors or in the shade. I make\\nthis statement despite the testimony of the eminent Pro-\\nfessor of Dermatology, Doctor Hebra, of Vienna, who posi-\\ntively declares that neither strong sunlight or sharp winds\\nnor the two combined will produce freckles. Vienna\\nfreckles may be able to resist a Vienna sun, but Yan-\\nkee freckles, such as I have had principally to encounter,\\nare beyond dispute brought to the surface of the skin by\\nintense sunlight and frequently by strong biting winds.\\nThe other form of freckles is called cold or winter\\nfreckles. These never disappear, except through external\\nagencies, and then only with the cuticle itself. For\\nevery-day or summer freckles, a good treatment is as\\nfollows:\\nBathe frequently with pure soap and water, use the\\nscrubbing brush as advised in Chapter V, and rub the\\nskin to an extent a little short of irritation. The advan-\\ntage of friction is not only that it assists in cleansing the\\nskin, but excites the cutaneous circulation. I have seen\\nmany and many a freckled face scrubbed and rubbed clear\\nwithout other aids, but there are a number of simple", "height": "4420", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0138.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 131\\nremedies which will hasten the cure. The most effective\\nof these to be employed in connection with the scrubbing\\nand dry friction are a cream or pomade to be used at\\nnight just before retiring and a wash to be applied dur-\\ning the day. The cream is made thus\\nFRECKLE CREAM\\nElder flower ointment 1 ounce.\\nSulphate of zinc 20 grains.\\nThis pomade is easily absorbed by the skin and is ex-\\ncellent not only for the treatment of freckles, but also for\\nany of the lighter skin eruptions which frequently annoy\\ngirls between the ages of fourteen and eighteen. In the\\nmorning wash the ointment carefully out of the skin and\\napply the following lotion. Repeat the application of the\\nlotion several times during the day.\\nFORMULA FOR LOTION\\nInfusion of roses 8 fluid ounces.\\nCitric acid .30 grains.\\nMix pour into a bottle, and keep closely stoppered. Should any\\nunpleasant irritation follow apply a healing lotion formula on page 135.\\nAnother highly commended freckle lotion is called\\nFRECKLE BALM\\nand is made as follows:\\nPure strained honey 8 ounces.\\nGlycerine 2 ounces.\\nAlcohol 2 ounces.\\nCitric acid 6 drachms.\\nEssence of ambergris 15 drops.\\nThere is but one way to take away obstinate or cold\\nfreckles, and that is to remove the discolored skin. The", "height": "4352", "width": "2812", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0139.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "132 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nfollowing remedy for removing freckles was published in\\nthe Medical Record some time ago. I have tried it in-\\nnumerable times with entire success in every case. The\\nadvantage of this preparation is in the fact that it con-\\ntains no corrosive sublimate which is the chief ingredient\\nin all the much-exploited freckle removers, bleaches, etc.,\\non the market.\\nFORMULA FOR REMOVING OBSTINATE FRECKLES\\nLactic acid 4 ounces.\\nGlycerine 2 ounces.\\nRose water 1 ounce.\\nThis is really a bleach in its effect, but it is entirely\\nharmless. You must not be surprised if it burns and causes\\na temporary redness of the skin. It must do this to be\\neffective, for it is to remove the discolored skin. You can\\nallay the burning by applying any of the creams for which\\nformulas are given elsewhere, or prepare the following\\nwhich is especially soothing.\\nOINTMENT TO BE USED AFTER LOTION FOR REMOVING\\nFRECKLES\\nOil of almonds 4 ounces.\\nWhite vaseline 3 ounces.\\nSpermaceti 1 ounce.\\nMelt, then add\\nExpressed juice of houseleeks 3 fluid ounces.\\nTincture of benzoin 15 drops.\\nStir until the mixture solidifies in cooling. Any desired perfume\\nmay be added.\\nMarchand s hydrozone and glycozone treatment will re-\\nmove freckles and pigmentary stains in general.", "height": "4420", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0140.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 133\\nGet the pure article one bottle each of hydrozone and\\nglycozone. The treatment is as follows:\\nFirst. Wash the surface well.\\nSecond. Hj means of a soft, camel s-hair brush (free from metal-\\nlic parts) apply to the skin, hydrozone full strength (or diluted with\\nwater half and half). Let it dry. It causes a slight itching sensa-\\ntion which will soon pass away.\\nThird.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Rub the surface over gently with glycozone.\\nThis treatment must be repeated morning and evening until the\\nnatural color of the skin is reached.\\nFrom that time repeat the above, at least once or twice every\\nweek, otherwise the trouble will surely return.\\nWind and Sunburn\\nSpring winds and sun are disastrous to delicate skins,\\nand the results of exposure at this trying season of the\\nyear frequently cling to fair faces throughout the entire\\nsummer.\\nTo prevent the discoloration and roughness induced by\\nthe fiercely drying cold spring wind, it is well to wear a\\nveil until the weather is more settled and the air grows\\nbalmy. A veil of chiffon is much more of a protection\\nthan one would perhaps think, and has the advantage of\\nbeing very becoming, while it serves to cut the sharpness L^\\nof the air. A chapped face produced by spring winds, so\\nextremely uncomfortable when accompanied by a drawn\\nsensation, as though the skin were too tightly stretched,\\nwill yield to the soothing effects of a very delightful and\\nsoftening unguent called Venus Cream, for which I give\\nthe formula;", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0141.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "134 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nVENUS CREAM\\nSpermaceti (pure) ounce.\\nWhite wax (pure) ounce.\\nAlmond oil 1 pound.\\nButter of cocoa pound.\\nLanolin 2 ounces.\\nMelt and stir in one drachm of balsam of Peru. After\\nsettling, pour off the clear portion and add two fluid\\ndrachms of orange flower water, and stir briskly until it\\nconcretes.\\nAfter exposure to the sun and wind, wipe the face off\\ncarefully with Venus Cream, using a bit of old linen or\\nflannel for the operation, which may be repeated, if neces-\\nsary, two or three times daily.\\nAn hour or so after the application of the Yenus\\nCream, it is well to bathe the face in tepid water. Use a\\nvery little soap, if necessary. Where the skin is inclined\\nto become dry and scaly from exposure, the following may\\nbe used with excellent results\\nIodide of potassium 1 to 2 drachms.\\nDistilled water 1 pint.\\nDissolve. Add one ounce pure glycerine.\\nFrequently the windburn or sunburn will darken the\\nface and throat in patches.\\nCalisthenic exercises persisted in daily until a free and\\nnatural perspiration is produced, followed by warm ablu-\\ntions, and the application of this healing lotion, are of in-\\nestimable advantage in such cases, and all the treatment\\nusually required to keep the skin clear and smooth.", "height": "4412", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0142.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 135\\nFORMULA FOR HEALING LOTION\\nBoracio acid 1 drachm.\\nDistilled witch hazel 2 ounces.\\nRose water 2 ounces.\\nFOR WIND AND SUNBURN\\nFor many skins the following lotion is almost a speci-\\nfic for wind and sunburn\\nThe strained juice of ripe cucumbers cup.\\nElder flower water cup.\\nRose water 1 cup.\\nPure alcohol 1 drachm.\\nBoracio acid, in powder teaspoon.\\nTincture of benzoin 30 drops.\\nApply with a velvet sponge or soft cloth whenever required.\\nFOR TAN AND SUNBURN\\nAn excellent preparation to remove tan and sunburn\\nmay be made as follows\\nBorax 10 grains.\\nLime water 2 ounces.\\nOil of sweet almonds 2 ounces.\\nIf the face become sore and show a tendency to peel off aftei\\nusing the above lotion, apply every morning after washing the fol-\\nlowing\\nChloride of ammonia 2 drachms.\\nSpirits of wine\\nAttar of roses (can be omitted)\\nRose water\\nVenetian talc (fine powder)\\n2 ounces.\\n10 drops.\\n1 pint.\\n1 ounce.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0143.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "136 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nMOTH PATCHES\\nFor moth patches and liver spots, the following will be\\nfound very beneficial\\nKaolin 4 grammes.\\nLanolin 10 grammes.\\nGlycerine 4 grammes.\\nCarbonate of magnesia 2 grammes.\\nOxide of zinc 2 grammes.\\nThis should be applied to the spots at night before retiring and\\nshould remain on until the next morning. Remove by the aid of\\ntepid water and a little pure hygienic soap. Repeat the application\\nas often as necessary.\\nFORMULA FOR FACE BLEACH KNOWN TO COMMERCE\\nBichloride of mercury in coarse powder 10 grains.\\nDistilled water 1 pint.\\nAgitate the two together until a complete solution is obtained.\\nThen add one -half ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge\\nas often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister and skin\\nthe face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength\\nby adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury.\\nDo not forget that bichloride of mercury is a powerful\\npoison and should be kept out of the reach of children\\nand ignorant persons.\\nFOR YELLOW SPOTS ON THE SKIN\\nOleate of copper 15 grains.\\nOintment of oxide of zinc ounce.\\nHub into the spots morning and night,", "height": "4404", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0144.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XV\\nTHE COMPLEXION Continued\\nOut damned spot! out, I say! Macbeth.\\nLACKHEADS are a form of acne indicated by lit-\\ntle black specks on the skin, chiefly about the\\nnose, forehead, and chin. Each speck marks\\nan obstructed outlet of the sebaceous glands,\\nand if pressure is made on either side, some-\\nthing having the appearance of a small white\\nworm may be pressed out. Upon careful ex-\\namination this so-called worm proves to be a mass of\\nhardened sebaceous matter, which has assumed this shape\\nby being pressed through the small outlet of the follicle.\\nThe black speck, giving to this little cylinder of fat the\\nappearance of a head, is, shocking as it is, simply an\\naccumulation of dirt. The technical term for one of\\nthese little masses is comedo. When examined under a\\nmicroscope, they are frequently found to contain a whole\\n(137)", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0145.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "138 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nfamily of parasites male, female, and their numerous\\nprogeny.\\nObviously there is but one way of getting rid of black-\\nheads, and that is by forcing them out of the clogged pore.\\nThey cannot be drawn back whence they came, and in\\npressing them out before the skin is properly softened and\\nprepared for their ejection, the patient must be very care-\\nful not to rupture the delicate tissue, causing either an ugly\\nlittle scar or, more likely, an enlargement of the opening\\nwhich immediately fills up again, each time increasing in\\nsize and becoming more malignant in appearance.\\nBlackheads may not only be removed without leaving\\nany scar, but once rid of them the patient need never\\nagain be troubled with them, if the advice here given be\\ncarefully followed.\\nFor two or three weeks, until the skin is thoroughly\\nsoftened, apply one of the creams or skin foods, formulas\\nfor which may be found in these pages. Make this appli-\\ncation at night, after washing the face well with a pure\\nhygienic soap and hot water. Be sure to rinse the soap\\nwell out of the face and dry the skin thoroughly before\\napplying the cream or skin food.\\nAt the end of two or three weeks of this treatment,\\nthe blackhead may be forced out by pressure of the two\\nthumbs. If a moderate pressure will not eject it, make no\\nmore heroic attempt, but try the green-soap treatment,\\nwhich rarely, if ever, fails.\\nGreen soap may be purchased at any drug store, and,\\nby the by, is not green. It is about the consistency of a\\ncustard.", "height": "4416", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0146.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "I THE COMPLEXION 139\\nBefore using the green soap, bathe the face in warm\\nwater as hot as can be pleasantly borne. Then wring out\\ncloths in hot water and lay over the face, renewing them\\nfrequently. Continue this operation for fifteen or twenty\\nminutes. Anoint the face with the green soap. Rub it\\nwell into the pores for five or six minutes. Rinse the\\nsoap from the face with hot water, using the cameFs-hair\\nface-scrubbing brush so as to remove all the soap and as\\nmany of the blackheads as will come. Dry the face and\\nanoint it with a skin food or cream. Continue this treat-\\nment every night until the blackheads have disappeared.\\nTREAtMENT FOR OBSTINATE BLACKHEADS\\nOccasionally very obdurate blackheads will require\\npressure, but usually the green soap will remove them\\nwithout more heroic treatment.\\nWhere the blackheads appear on the back, and also\\nupon the breasts, the same treatment is required. Soap\\nand water and friction, combined with an emollient, mean\\ndeath to blackheads. Apart also from the mere cleanli-\\nness derived from the friction of the brush, it has the most\\nimportant effect of so stimulating the circulation that the\\nobstructed glands are opened, their stagnating contents\\nbroken up, dissolved, and carried off.\\nNEW REMEDY FOR BLACKHEADS\\nDoctor Hebra, of Vienna, a world-renowned dermatolo-\\ngist, advises the following for curing blackheads:\\nBathe the face at night with the following lotion Rose water,\\npure alcohol and glycerine, 10 grains each pulverized borax, 5 grains.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0147.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "140 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAfter five minutes, apply this mixture Pure alcohol, 80 grains\\ngreen soap, 40 grains. Wash off in the morning.\\nAcne appears under various forms and names. In con-\\nfluent acne, the pimples appear in groups, suppurating and\\nrunning together. A course of sulphur baths is recom-\\nmended. Friction and frequent bathing are advised, and\\nas soon as possible the camel s-hair face brush.\\nIn acne indurata, the pimples appear to be under the\\nskin. The same treatment should be followed.\\nThe use of a camel s-hair face-scrubbing brush cannot\\nbe too strongly recommended.\\nIt removes from the face the dust and foreign matter\\nthat has collected there during the day, and it penetrates\\nand dislodges from the pores of the skin any secretions\\nthat may have become clogged there.\\nI do not believe any one can keep the face clean, ex-\\ncept by the aid of a brush.\\nA pure soap will not hurt the most delicate skin. On\\nthe contrary, it is a necessary detergent, and the women\\nwho have the most beautiful complexions in the world\\nnotably English women are those who have scrubbed\\ntheir faces with soap and water from childhood.\\nIts use should not be restricted to women. As a mat-\\nter of fact, the male epidermis differs in no respect from\\nthe female, except possibly that it is tougher. Both are\\nequally benefited by the use of the face-scrubbing brush.\\nYour stalwart six-footer may not long for the pink and\\nwhite cheeks of the dainty sixteen year-old girl, yet he\\nwill surely appreciate the exquisite feeling of cleanliness\\nand freshness which follows the scrubbing process. I have", "height": "4416", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0148.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 141\\nalso been informed that the use of the brush is an excel-\\nlent means of softening the beard before shaving.\\nAcne molluscum usually appears on the forehead and\\nabout the nose. It has the aspect of tiny seed pearls im-\\nbedded in the skin, and is due to the obstruction of the\\nsebaceous glands, which, unable to rid themselves of their\\ncontents, become distended, and hardened.\\nTREATMENT FOR ACNE MOLLUSCUM\\nOpen each seed acne with the point of a fine cambric needlec\\nThe hardened mass must be pressed or pricked out. The empty sack\\nof the gland should then be bathed with a little toilet vinegar and water,\\nor with a very weak solution of carbolic acid and water.", "height": "4340", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0149.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVI\\nTHE COMPLEXION Continued\\nMen judge by the complexion, Richard II.\\niMPLES and eczema are the most repulsive of skin\\nailments. An eruption of any kind on the face\\nis fatal to beauty.\\nBeauty usually first inspires love, but it is\\ncertain that cleanliness is a great factor in its\\npreservation, and also, I am bound to say once\\nmore, no woman suffering from any one of the\\ncommon forms of skin disease ever looks really clean.\\nFor years it has been my habit to take a mental note\\nof the skin diseases and blemishes of women and girls, and\\nI have found that about only thirty in a hundred have\\nreally healthy, firm-looking skins, frequently with freckles,\\nwhich are not unclean looking. The other seventy are\\npimply and unsightly from eczema, acne, or blackheads, or\\nboth.\\n(142)", "height": "4416", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0150.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 143\\nAt the risk of being tiresome and regarded by my\\nreaders as a persistent crank, I am bound to say that I do\\nhonestly believe uncleanliness is the chief cause of the\\nunsightly faces in every assemblage, on the streets and at\\nhome, in town and country. Perhaps I should qualify\\nthis statement by saying that a mistaken idea of cleanli-\\nness prevails, and that a mere bath every day is not suffi-\\ncient to entitle one to be called absolutely clean.\\nThe skin is constantly undergoing the process of repro-\\nduction and decay, constantly secreting and endeavoring\\nto throw off the decayed and useless matter. The skin of\\nthe face throws off its dead and useless scurf in tiny, dust-\\nlike particles. If these little specks of dead cuticle are\\nremoved daily by friction and a detergent, the channels\\nare kept open and disease cannot, unless inherited or con-\\ntagious, attack the face. Unfortunately, our American\\nclimate, with its sudden changes, too frequently checks\\nthe flow of perspiration which, unrestrained, would of it-\\nself carry off the dead matter. The consequence of the\\narrested effort to free the pores is congestion, and the re-\\nsult is a skin obstructed and positively loaded with adher-\\ning refuse matter, which is not only filthy, but actually\\npoisonous in its effects when forced back into the blood.\\nI wish that I could personally see every woman who\\nreads this book, and tell her by word of mouth of\\nthe quantities of filth which will accumulate in the pores\\nof the skin of the face in a month s time of the hideous\\ncases of skin diseases which have been the despair of\\nwomen and girls, and which have, in the course of a few\\nmonths of proper cleansing and friction, yielded and given\\nA\u00e2\u0080\u0094 8", "height": "4344", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0151.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "144 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nway to beautiful, satiny complexions, free from every\\nblemish.\\nI have not much confidence in my own powers of elo-\\nquence, but it seems to me I could not fail, in relating\\nthe actual histories taken from my ow^n daily observation,\\nto impress my convictions, which are really the result of\\nyears of experience, that uncleanliness and a misunder-\\nstanding of what that word means, are the chief causes\\nof our disfigured skins. Physical cleanliness must be so\\nactive that all corporeal impurities are thrown off through\\nits agencies, cutaneous eruptions removed, and the entire\\nsurface of the body made as pure and smooth and bright\\nas in infancy. No simple washing or bathing will do\\nthis, though such ablutions be performed six times a day.\\nThere is no purification of the skin and no cure for dis-\\neases resulting from obstructed pores, in my opinion, ex-\\ncept through water and soap and friction.\\nI cite an actual instance which lately came under my\\nobservation.\\nA young Swedish girl, a housemaid in a hotel where I\\nwas living, was a repulsive object from a skin disease\\nwhich appeared at first glance to be erysipelas. Her face\\nwas covered with groups of white-headed pimples in vari-\\nous stages of suppuration her cheeks, nose, and chin were\\nthe color of a bright red cranberry; and the entire skin\\nappeared stretched and shiny, as it will on a boil when\\ngathering. The girl was an excellent servant, but several\\nof the guests complained to the housekeeper that she was\\npositively offensive to them, and she was about to be dis-\\ncharged when I spoke gently to her of her complexion,", "height": "4400", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0152.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 145\\nand she told me, with a burst of tears, how she had suf-\\nfered for years from the hideous disease. She said she\\nhad tried many advertised remedies, but had given up in\\ndespair as they had made her face worse than ever. I\\nprescribed a course of treatment for her, which included\\nwashing her face daily several times with soda and water\\nand a very pure, healing soap. In a month she was able\\nto use a camel s-hair face brush with soap. The treat-\\nment was practically the one I have already recom-\\nmended, consisting of a healing cream used at night, and\\na cooling lotion during the day, and now eight months\\nfrom the time I first undertook the cure of Helma B,\\nher face is as smooth and fair as a child s every pimple\\nand spot has disappeared, and she herself in referring to\\nit says: For sure, now when I look in the glass I all\\nthe time smile, and for sure one year ago when I look in\\nthe glass I all the time cry.\\nHelma s case was an unusually bad and disgusting one,\\nbut it was simply a neglected case of acne. A great many\\npeople do not discriminate between acne and eczema.\\nEczema, in its simplest form, is a disease characterized\\nby the eruption of a great number of small blister-headed-\\nlooking little pimples clustered together in patches, usually\\nconfined to one part of the body at a time. The pimples\\nare accompanied by intense itching, and the result of\\nscratching is to tear the thin, inflamed cuticle and to so ir-\\nritate it that it suppurates and dries, leaving, after the crust\\nhas fallen, a little red mark upon the skin which is either\\ndry, or, in some cases, wet, with a thin, milky-looking\\ndischarge which exudes from a tiny opening in the center", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0153.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "146 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nof the pimple. This discharge often ceases in a few days,\\nbut is frequently followed by a fresh crop of pimples and\\nagain by another, so that the disease frequently runs on\\nfor months, one patch healing as another reappears.\\nChronic or acute eczema is simple eczema in its most\\naggravated form, and if not checked results in hideous\\nrunning sores and abscesses and excessive suffering. The\\ncauses of eczema are frequently very obscure. It is often\\ninherited, and w^hen this is the case, it is seldom possible\\nto do more than palliate it or hold it in check. It fre-\\nquently attacks the face, but usually first appears on the\\nhands, the itching being so severe at times as to throw\\nthe patient almost into convulsions. Children suffer fre-\\nquently from eczema of the face, and the subjects to this\\nmalady of all ages are apt to be attacked with it in the\\neyelids or the ears.\\nI knew a very beautiful and high-bred woman, now\\npeacefully resting in the tomb of her Knickerbocker an-\\ncestors, who was obliged to dress her hair so that her ears\\nwere covered, because they were absolutely offensive from\\ninherited eczema. I have often thought of her since I\\nhave learned to know that all forms of skin diseases, if\\nnot actually curable, may be greatly ameliorated, and of\\nthe agony she suffered in the knowledge that she was, to\\nuse her own words to me, a living ulcer with a long line\\nof intermarried dead ulcers back of her.\\nHideous, indeed, is the legacy of scrofula and inex-\\norable the laws of transmission, but even inherited skin\\ndiseases may be greatly palliated and the external signs\\nkept in subjection.", "height": "4416", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0154.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 147\\nEczema sometimes appears in girls between the ages\\nof fourteen and sixteen, and is most annoying to sensi-\\ntive cliildren. It can, unless inherited, always be con-\\ntrolled by attention to the general principles of health\\ncleanliness, exercise, proper diet, clothing, and ventila-\\ntion. Eczema patients, old and young, should never use\\nstimulants in any form they should take daily bafchs and\\nbe most particular as to the regularity of all the import-\\nant bodily functions. Occasionally doses of mild saline\\naperients such as cream of tartar, sulphate of soda, or\\nthe old-fashioned remedy of lac sulphur and cream of\\ntartar mixed in equal quantities with enough molasses\\nto form a creamy paste and taken three times a day\\nfor three days running, then omitted for three, then\\nresumed for three, will be found of wonderful benefit.\\nLet the patient drink freely of lemonade and avoid\\nsalt meats, pork in any form, and live upon a diet of\\nfruits, red meats, and antiscorbutic vegetables. Many\\npeople are particularly susceptible to shellfish, and I\\nhave seen a case of eczema follow in several instances\\nthe eating of lobster. Strawberries will frequently pro-\\nduce this effect. Of course when there is an idiosyn-\\ncrasy of this kind, the cause should be avoided. Vigorous\\nexercise will often, by inducing excessive perspiration,\\nact as a curative for eczema, particularly when com-\\nbined with the application of a harmless external appli-\\ncation.\\nTake great care in selecting the cream or emollient. I\\nhave seen most disastrous results from the reckless use\\nof much-vaunted articles.", "height": "4348", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0155.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "148 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe following lotion is highly recommended by Doctor\\nCazenave\\nOrange -flower water 300 grammes.\\nNitric acid 20 drops.\\nHydrochloric acid 20 drops.\\nDoctor Monin recommends this lotion for eczema of\\nthe face, and suggests about the same diet I have advised,\\nwith the aid of sulphur or soda baths. Just as soon as it\\nis possible to bear the camel s-hair brush on the face, it\\nshould be used.\\nPOMADE FOR ECZEMA\\nSalicylic acid 1 gramme.\\nOxide of zinc (powdered)\\nPowdered starch\\nLanolin 30 grammes.\\nVaseline 10 grammes.\\nBichloride of mercury, which is corrosive sublimate, is an active\\npoison, quite proper to be used as here given and in the quantity\\nordered.\\nLOTION FOR ECZEMA, PIMPLES AND ERUPTIONS OF THE\\nSKIN GENERALLY\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Cooley)\\nCorrosive sublimate (in coarse powder) 10 grains.\\nDistilled water 1 pint.\\nAgitate them together until solution be complete. The addition\\nof five or six grains of hydrochlorate ammonia (pure sal ammoniac) or\\nfive or six drops (not more) of hydrochloric acid, increases the solvent\\naction of the water, and renders the preparation less liable to suffer\\nchange, but is not otherwise advantageous. When absolutely pure\\ndistilled water is not used, this addition of acid should be made to\\nprevent decomposition. To facilitate the process, some persons dissolve\\nthe sublimate in two or three fluid drachms of rectified spirit before\\nadding the water but this, though convenient, is also unnecessary.", "height": "4412", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0156.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 149\\nFOR A BAD SKIN\\nZinc ointment, 2 ounces alcohol, 1^ drachms resorcin, 1 scruple.\\nRub this into the skin every night. If the face is very much irritated,\\nuse this lotion during the day Oxide of zinc, 2 drachms glycerine,\\n4 drachms rose water, 2 ounces. Apply once or twice, or even three\\ntimes daily, if required. It is very soothing.\\nBROCO FORMULA FOR ECZEMA\\nThis preparation I have used with the greatest success\\nin severe cases of facial eczema:\\nSalicylic acid, from 50 centigrammes to 2 grammes, according to\\nthe severity of the case.\\nOxide of zinc and pulverized cornstarch, 34 grammes each.\\nLanolin 40 grammes.\\nVaseline 10 grammes.\\nMix with care in the mortar, until a smooth paste is formed. Ap-\\nply at night and wash off in the morning.\\nLOTION FOR ECZEMA OF THE EYELIDS\\nRed laurel water 20 grammes.\\nGlycerine 5 grammes.\\nAcetic acid in crystals. 20 centigrammes.\\nApply to the eyelids daily make the application with a small\\ncamel s-hair brush.\\nFOR CHRONIC ECZEMA\\nDoctor Schmitz, a German skin specialist, tells of very\\nsuccessful use of the follov^ing mixture for chronic\\neczema\\nPure glycerine 120 grammes.\\nResorcin 15 grammes.\\nApply night and morning by the aid of a featheri", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0157.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "150 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCAMPHORATED SOAP FOR ECZEMA\\nWhere the subject is very nervous, and is afflicted also\\nwith rheumatism, bathing with the soap for which I give\\nformula will often relieve the eczema, which sometimes\\naccompanies this malady:\\nPaste of bitter almonds. 60 grammes.\\nSaturated tincture of benzoin. 40 grammes.\\nPulverized gum camphor. 8 grammes.\\nWhite castile soap 500 grammes.\\nMelt the soap and add the other ingredients. Beat thoroughly\\nand pour into soap molds.", "height": "4412", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0158.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVII\\nTHE COMPLEXION Continued\\nBid them wash their faces. Coriolanus.\\nHE general public will perhaps be astonished to\\nlearn that, according to many renowned der-\\nmatologists, it is the exceptional woman who\\nknows, until she has been taught, how to wash\\nher face, and that most of the ordinary skin\\nailments are the results of an ignorance of the\\nskin structure of the face and of a most re-\\nstricted idea as to what real physical purity of the skin\\nmeans.\\nSome years ago, I organized a class for the pur-\\npose of teaching a group of fashionable women how to\\nwash their faces. Of course they were, as every member\\nof the beau sexe is, intensely interested in such vital mat-\\nters as the beauty of their complexions, and how to prop-\\nerly and hygienically care for their charming countenances.\\n(151)", "height": "4348", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0159.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "152 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nI quote from an article which appeared in a New York\\npaper after the first lesson had been given.\\nStanding beside a large dressing table supplied with\\newer, basin, hot-water kettle, and upon one corner of which\\nwere heaped Turkish mittens, face scrubbing brushes, and\\na pyramid of delicately scented soaps, the leader of this\\nnew cult said I take it for granted that no woman\\npresent is positively satisfied with the condition of her\\nskin or she would not be here, and I ask every one s par-\\ndon when I say that as a nation, we do not have beauti-\\nful complexions mainly because we have never learned\\nthe scientific way of keeping the pores of the skin cover-\\ning our faces free, and that if we do not aid the channels\\nwith which Nature has supplied us to throw off the ac-\\ncumulations of effete and useless matter, by friction and\\na detergent, they become choked, these thousands of won-\\nderful ducts intended as respiratory or breathing organs\\nof the marvelous skin structure, and as a result each lit-\\ntle useful pore is clogged with the sebaceous matter which\\nit should and would throw off, mingled with the oils and\\nsalts of perspiration. The functions of the skin are par-\\ntially suspended and the result, as in all cases of conges-\\ntion, is disease.\\nI am going now, said the instructor, to show you\\nthe way the average gentlewoman washes her face, just\\nas I washed mine up to a few years ago; and I doubt not\\njust as you washed yours this morning, and with a smile,\\nthe bodice of the tailor-made gown, the linen chemisette,\\nand cuffs were unfastened, and laid aside, and the professor\\npf face scrubbing stood revealed iij the dainty bat simple", "height": "4416", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0160.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 153\\nlingerie of the fastidious and patrician woman who is\\nfemme de race, as the French say, to her finger tips.\\nA little burst of laughter and applause greeted the\\nchange of costume, and a shout of merriment proceeded\\nfrom the class as the face washer poured about a quart of\\nwater into a bowl, added a few drops of perfume, and\\nthen, taking a bit of soft old linen about the size of a\\nsmall handkerchief, wet it coquettishly in the liquid, and\\nwith lightest touch proceeded to dabble her face most\\ngingerly, and immediately after to as carefully dry it as\\nthough it were a Dresden figure with lace ruffles.\\nNow, she said when she had finished, is this not a\\nfair example of the way we wash our faces and the\\nwomen laughed aloud and cried Yes, indeed, that s\\ntaken from life. You are quite right, etc., for they\\nsaw those brushes and knew in a measure what was com-\\ning, and how utterly absurd the little rag looked as an\\nargument for cleanliness, against the heap of searching\\nbristles.\\nWhen, said Mrs. Ayer, you can keep your hands, or\\nyour arms, or the bit of lace at your throats, clean,\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nsweetly, scrupulously clean, by a rag and a little tepid\\nwater, the same method will answer for your faces. Now\\nI am going to show you how to really free the face from\\nall superficial impurities, from the dust of this morning,\\nthe superfluous and frequently abnormal flow of oil from\\nthe glands, and the dead particles of the scurf skin which\\nis always changing, always renewing itself, and can only\\nbe gotten quite rid of by friction. And also, I may add,\\nby this very stimulant the result of the friction the", "height": "4348", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0161.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "154 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nclogged pores throw off the hardened secretions and the\\nskin responds as the breathing cells of the leaves of a\\nplant to the assistance we shall give it. Mrs. Aver now\\npoured from the ewer of hot water as much as a large\\nwashbowl would hold, and, pinning back her loose locks\\nof hair from brow and neck, she took a face scrubbing\\nbrush, dipped it into the hot water, rubbed it vigorously\\nwith a cake of soap, and, bending over the bowl, she\\nscrubbed her face and throat with amazing vigor.\\nFor goodness sake, cried one young Knickerbocker\\nmatron, she ll take every bit of skin off. I d just as\\nsoon attack my classic features with a nutmeg grater,\\nsaid a second. No human woman can stand such a\\nbarbaric process, cried a lady of sixty but the teacher\\nof face washing only smiled, emptied the basin, filled it\\nwith fresh hot water, and, dipping a soft Turkish mitten\\ninto it, proceeded to carefully wash again, saying as she\\ndid so, I am now rinsing the soap out, for it is just as\\nharmful to clog the skin with soap as with any other\\nforeign matter.\\nOnce more the water was emptied, this time the basin\\nwas filled with cooler water a fresh mitten, another rins-\\ning, then the drying process with a linen towel, and after-\\nwards with a roguish look, the instructor said\\nIf there be any one present who feels that I have not\\nexhibited the courage of my convictions, she has the\\nfloor, but only laughter greeted her remark. Then she\\nrearranged her hair and dress, and, throwing wide the\\nshutter so that the bright April sun flooded the room,\\nshe asked the pupils to come to the light and see how", "height": "4408", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0162.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 155\\nfree from irritation her skin was. The class in a body\\nhastened to accept the invitation. They critically exam-\\nined the face of the leader of the new school of philoso-\\nphy, and were satisfied. Seeing was believing, and the\\nsubscribers to the face-washing class meekly accepted a\\nbrush, cake of soap, and a Turkish mitten, and departed\\nto return the following week to report their experiences,\\nand to learn how to use the electric battery, and to ob-\\ntain a few points in crow s-feet.\\nFace Steaming\\nWomen accustomed to a daily scrub, which includes\\nthe face, rarely are benefited by the steaming process.\\nThe fad, like many another, is a passing one, but it is\\nworthy of a word of caution.\\nFace steaming is supposed to open the pores of the\\nskin, and during the operation, we are assured, that all\\nforeign matter, dust, and clogged secretions, are expelled.\\nA spasmodic cleansing of the face which requires daily\\nfriction to remove all extraneous substances from it, is,\\nfirst of all, illogical and I have found that face steaming\\nfrequently leaves the cuticle dry and parched even when\\nthe operation is performed under the most favorable cir-\\ncumstances, which, of course, is in one s own home, where\\nthe patient may remain some hours at least before expo-\\nsure to the outer atmosphere.\\nAn occasional face steaming in one s own dressing room\\nwill do no harm, but it is trifling with a very precious\\npossession to subject the face to the heat of the steamer.", "height": "4348", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0163.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "156\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nand, within an hour or so, to a chilling wind or a frosty,\\npenetrating cold.\\nThe Austrian women are noted for their fine complex-\\nions. They use quantities of hot water on their faces, not\\nonly in bathing, but they dip cloths in hot water and ap-\\nply them. My experience leads me to believe the cloths\\nmore efficacious than the steamer; they have also the\\nadditional advantage of not being painful to the eyes as\\nthe steam is.\\nTo those women who persist in steaming, I suggest\\nthat no apparatus is required. A chafing dish or even a\\nteakettle, with a funnel placed in the spout, will do. The\\nwater must boil and the subject cover her head and focus\\nthe steam wherever she desires.\\nThe following lotion is very agreeable to use after\\nface steaming, particularly if the skin seem tender and\\nappear very red\\nLOTION (Pol Vernon)\\nRose water 900 grammes.\\nTincture myrrh\\nTincture opopanax\\nTincture benzoin\\nEssence of citron\\n10 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\n4 grammes.\\nTincture of quillaia, sufficient quantity to make an emulsion.", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0164.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVHI\\nTHE COMPLEXION Continued\\nLet it Stamp wrinkles in her brow of yonth.. King Lear.\\nECHNicALLY, a Wrinkle is a looseness of the skin,\\ncaused by the failure or attenuation of the\\nunder structure. This definition, however, ap-\\nplies only to such of the lines in the human\\nface as are formed in extreme age by the de-\\ngeneration of the muscle as well as by impair-\\nment of the fatty tissue. It is a mistake to\\nsuppose that all wrinkles indicate old or advanced age. It\\nis a fallacy to suggest that wrinkles and lines are not in-\\ndications of temperament and character. We are each\\none accountable for the lines and crow s-feet on our faces,\\nfor they are the most faithful and unerring record of our\\npast.\\nThe muscular contractions of the brow or cheek cause\\nthe lines, and it is fortunate that there are among them\\nthose that indicate good and beautiful attributes.\\n(157)", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0165.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "158 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhen you see a man or a woman with a wrinkled\\nface, you may be very sure that every line is a telltale.\\nThe lines that indicate a sense of humor are easily enough\\nrecognized, even in early youth. T\\\\i^j are never unpleas-\\nant. They are not the lines of a silly simpering girl, who,\\nunless she mends her ways and ceases to giggle, will de-\\nvelop into a woman who is accompanied through life by\\nan idiotic grin.\\nIt is absolutely impossible for a woman of charity, be-\\nnevolence, and humanity to look like an avaricious or\\nspiteful woman. When you see a woman with a spiteful\\nface, you may be certain her countenance but reflects her\\ncharacter.\\nThe lines that indicate a love of gossip are very read-\\nily recognized. There is a certain droop to the mouth\\nwhich a woman s face will always take on just after she\\nhas asked if you have heard the latest about Mrs. So and So.\\nIt does not need any explanation from me to describe\\nthe lines that tell the story of an irritable, fretful nature.\\nThey are always drooping, just as mirthful, happy lines\\nare upward curves.\\nThe lines in the face that indicate revenge are also\\nalways drooping and malicious looking. In such cases,\\nthere is usually a line from the nose to the lower corner\\nof the mouth, and several fine oblique lines upon the\\nbroad part of the nose.\\nA cynical face is marked by an upward sneering line\\nat the mouth corners, and usually by the network of small\\nlines which indicate a general contempt for persons and\\nthings.", "height": "4408", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0166.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "CO\\nLJ\\n_l\\nz\\nS\\nQ\\nZ\\nCO\\nLiJ\\n_y", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0167.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "ANATOMICAL CHART SHOWING FACIAL MUSCLES\\n1. Frontalis muscle.\\n2. Occipitalis muscle.\\n3. Orbicularis Palpebrarum muscle.\\n4. Orbital portion of the Orbicularis\\nPalpebrarum.\\n5. Compressor Naris muscle.\\n6. Depressor Alae Nasi muscle.\\n7. Orbicularis Oris muscle.\\n(160)\\nLevator Labii Superioris muscle.\\nLevator Aniiuli Oris muscle.\\nZygomaticus Major.\\nZygomaticus Minor. vMaUier muscles.\\nPlatysma Myoides. j\\nDescending portion of Platysma\\nMyoides.\\n14.\\n15.\\n1(5.\\n18.\\n19.\\n20.\\n21.\\nDepressor Labii Inferioris.\\nDepressor Anguli Oris.\\nLevator Menti.\\nTemporal muscle.\\nMasseter muscle.\\nSterno-mastoid muscle.\\nTrapezius muscle.", "height": "4384", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0168.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 161\\nThe talker s wrinkles commence in and near the lower\\ncheek, and run down under the chin from side to side.\\nThe straight up and down lines furrowed in the brow\\ndenote sternness and sharpness.\\nHorizontal lines across the forehead are an indication\\nof a conscientious struggle to do right.\\nDiagonal lines, crisscrossed in the middle of the brow,\\nmean small frets and worries.\\nAfter sixty, one should expect wrinkles. Up to that\\ntime they may properly be considered premature. I do\\nnot hesitate, to say, however, that the treatment necessary\\nfor their obliteration is largely a moral one. For exam-\\nple, I do not believe it possible by any external agency to\\neradicate malicious wrinkles until after the subject has\\nreformed her ways, nor do I think revengeful lines will\\nyield to massage.\\nIn other words, it comes to this that an ill-tempered\\nwoman cannot have the lines provoked by her lack of\\namiability taken away until she ceases to exercise the\\nmuscles that reflect her thoughts and have caused these\\nlines.\\nA good woman cannot possibly look like a bad one,\\nand a bad one, over thirty-five years of age, in my opin-\\nion has never looked like a saint.\\nThe general treatment for wrinkles which have been\\ninduced by illness and care or anxiety, is great cleanli-\\nness, nutritious food, out-of-door exercise, and the internal\\ncultivation of an equable temper and a happy spirit.\\nWhatever tends to promote the general health and to\\nincrease the deposit of fat in the skin tissues of the face,\\nA.-9", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0169.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "162 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ntends to obliterate lines and wrinkles, and to restore the\\nfirmness and beauty of the skin. Attention to the diet is\\nof the utmost importance, and massage is of great benefit.\\nProperly administered, there is no agent so successful\\nin obliterating lines and wrinkles, as massage. There have\\nbeen a number ot mechanical appliances invented and\\nmanufactured to take the place of manual massage. I\\nadvise the manual treatment whenever it is possible to\\nsecure it.\\nElectricity is a great skin stimulant and therefore an\\nimportant adjunct to massage.\\nWhere the skin is dry and wrinkled as well, it requires\\na tissue builder. For this purpose the skin food is better\\nthan any other emollient I know of. The skin food should\\nbe applied during the massage. Formula as follows:\\nWhite wax\\n1 ounce.\\nSpermaceti\\n1 ounce.\\nLanolin\\n2 ounces.\\nSweet almond oil\\n4 ounces.\\nCocoanut oil\\n2 ounces.\\nBenzoin (tincture)\\n3 drops.\\nOrange flower water\\n2 ounces.\\nMelt the first five ingredients together, take off the fire, and beat\\nuntil nearly cold, adding, little by little, the benzoin, and lastly the\\norange flower water.\\nA New Cure for Wrinkles\\nA so-called new method for obliterating wrinkles and\\nfurrows, which as usual turns out to be a revival and\\nmodification of an old one, is termed the bandeaux system.", "height": "4384", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0170.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 163\\nAs the name implies, the treatment is performed by\\nthe aid of bandages.\\nAccording to a famous French authority the marks of\\nage noticeable in the shrinking of the fatty tissues under\\nthe chin and that are such a source of misery to each\\nwoman, as well as the creases in the brow and the droop\\nof the mouth, may be indefinitely warded off if the sub-\\nject will each night wear during her sleeping hours a set\\nof bands especially devised for obliterating the ravages of\\ntime from the forehead and throat.\\nThese bands resemble very much those that form the\\nunder part of the headdress of the Sisters of Mercy or\\nCharity.\\nIn Paris, where the new system is flourishing, they may\\nbe bought readily, and I have seen several sets that have\\nbeen imported to this country, although I do not think\\nthey are yet for sale in America.\\nThey are made of firm white linen and are about three\\nand a half inches broad after they are folded several\\ntimes and ready for adjusting.\\nA set of beauty bands consists of three strips each for\\nchin and brow.\\nBefore binding the face it must be thoroughly washed\\nand anointed with an ointment called Pommade Grecque,\\nwhich is made as follows\\nPOMMADE GRECQUE\\nLanolin 2 ounces.\\nWhite vaseline 2 ounces.\\nGood cold cream 1 ounce. Mix.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0171.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "164 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIt is important that the skin under the bands be\\nsmoothed out by the hand before applying the bandage.\\nIf the linen be stretched over a fold or wrinkle, it will\\nnaturally do great damage, as it will make the wrinkle\\nmore deeply seated and much more diflBcult to eradicate.\\nIn the morning the bandages are taken off and the neck\\nand face are first washed with a pure soap and warm water.\\nThen use this lotion, which is made as follows\\nAURORA LOTION\\nRose water 125 grammes.\\nGlycerine 50 grammes.\\nAlcohol 50 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 50 grammes.\\nBoric acid 25 grammes.\\nDissolve the boric acid first in the alcohol, add the glycerine, then\\nthe rose water, and last of all the tincture of benzoin.\\nWarts and Moles\\nThese blemishes are sometimes merely pigmentary,\\nsometimes both pigmentary and hairy. They may be\\nelevated above the skin, or level with it. Usually they\\nare congenital, and are then known as yicevi or birth-\\nmarks, but, in some circumstances, they develop in\\nchildhood or even later. The coloring matter which con-\\nstitutes them is deposited in the deeper portion of the\\nsubcuticle, so that a scar usually results if they are re-\\nmoved either by the knife or by the actual cautery hot\\niron. Ligature by means of a silk or silver thread tightly\\nwound round the root of the excrescence is a method\\napplicable to large pendent warts, which, thus treated,", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0172.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 165\\nshrivel and drop off, when the base can be cauterized\\nwith a nitrate of silver stick. Common v^arts without a\\npedicle, may be removed by repeated applications of\\nstrong acetic acid, nitric acid, caustic potash, lunar caustic\\nin pencil, tincture of chloride of iron and hydrochloric\\nacid. In applying any of these remedies, care must be\\ntaken not to touch with them the surrounding skin, else\\na stain or scar may result. It is best to isolate the wart\\nor mole before putting on the caustic, by spreading a thin\\nlayer of soft wax or spermaceti over the adjacent surface.\\nAll the agents enumerated are liable, it must be borne in\\nmind, to leave permanent marks behind them, and, in case\\nof moles on the face, these marks may after all prove to\\nbe more disfiguring than the original blemish.\\nChildren and young people who suffer from abnor-\\nmally moist hands sometimes have multiple warts of\\nvarious sizes on the fingers or hands. In the treatment\\nof these the internal administration of arsenic and other\\nmedicines is often advisable, combined with the local ap-\\nplication of a paste made of precipitated sulphur, glacial\\nacetic acid, and glycerine in equal parts. This paste\\nmust be freshly made at the time of using, and spread\\nover the warts. But the best of all treatment of moles,\\nwarts, and other pigmentary or excrescent blemishes is\\nelectrolysis. The mode of operation is the same as that\\njust described in the case of superfluous hairs, only that\\nwhen applied to solid growths of skin more than one sit-\\nting is invariably necessary, and the duration of the gal-\\nvanic action should be continued as long at a time as it\\nis found bearable.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0173.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "166 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nBIRTHMARKS\\nPort wine marks, which usually are amenable to\\nno other treatment, may be removed in a similar manner,\\nso also may ncevi of other kinds, liver stains, obstinate\\nfreckles, and even local skin disease, when independent of\\ngeneral ill health. Affections of the cuticle characterized\\nby thickening or infiltration are those which best lend\\nthemselves to the influence of the galvanic current. The\\npowerful modification thus produced on the circulation,\\nabsorption, and nutrition of the tissue may even, Dr. de\\nWatteville thinks Practical Introduction to Medical\\nElectricity be brought to bear successfully on such\\nforms of dermal affection as acne, eczema, neurotic bald-\\nness, chilblains, and herpes.\\nElectrolysis is especially valuable as a cure for cutane-\\nous vascular formations, whether congenital or acquired.\\nThis kind of skin complaint is not uncommon, often ap-\\npearing in mature life and in connection with acne or\\nsome other generalized affection of the kind. It consists\\nof patches of dilated blood vessels situated in the subcu-\\ntaneous tissues, irregular in shape, and varying in color\\nfrom dark purple to bright pink. These patches may ap-\\npear singly or in numbers on any part of the face or per-\\nson, but they are most commonly seen on the nose or\\ncheek. Their aspect is that of a fine network of dis-\\ntended veins, tortuous and serpentine in appearance, and\\nmore or less distinctly outlined. The affected part often\\nburns and assumes a shiny look. Vascular marks of this\\ncharacter, whether recent or congenital, can be entirely", "height": "4364", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0174.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 173\\ntics, and perhaps electricity to strengthen the weakened\\nmuscles. There have, indeed, been cures of seemingly\\nhopeless paralysis, by massage, continuously, systematically,\\nand scientifically given.\\nIf a shrunken arm may be restored to symmetry and\\nperfect contour, why not a shrunken cheek? Obviously one\\nresult is as logical as the other. The great difficulty is\\nthat in treating an arm or leg we follow our physician s\\nadvice and secure a scientific masseur; but for some inex-\\nplicable reason, we trust our faces, whose delicate anatomy\\nand muscular structure we know next to nothing about\\nourselves, to the first woman whose sign facial treat-\\nment or facial massage meets our eyes on the street,\\nand who is just one degree more ignorant than we our-\\nselves.\\nNo woman is competent to give beneficial massage to\\nthe face unless she has studied its anatomy, knows every\\nnerve and muscle in its construction, and has practiced\\nthe giving of facial gymnastics for at least a twelvemonth\\nunder one of the professors of the Swedish school.\\nI suppose I am acquainted with nearly every so-called\\nmethod of giving so-called massage in this country. It is\\nutter nonsense to talk of different methods. There is\\nonly one real way of properly administering true facial\\ngymnastics, and that is after the school founded by the\\ngreat Ling, the originator of the system. Where a woman\\ncan afford to employ a skillful masseuse of course she\\nshould do so. First-class Swedish graduates receive nat-\\nurally good pay for their services, and but recently have\\nbeen unwilling to give facial treatments alone, but there", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0175.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "174 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nare two or three experts in this line who now give the\\nfacial treatment at prices not high when the quality of\\nthe service rendered is considered.\\nFrequently, however, to a woman who needs facial\\nmassage, even one dollar is far beyond her means, and in\\nsuch cases the subject may do the work herself on her\\nown face and it is work and not play, let it be under-\\nstood, and fatiguing work, too, when properly done.\\nThe word massage is derived from the Greek masso, to\\nknead. It does not, as many alleged operators appear to\\nconsider, mean to pinch, or punch, or bruise, or beat the\\ntender flesh and nerves until the victim is as sore as a\\npugilist after a prize fight.\\nBefore a woman gives herself massage, she should\\nstudy the plate given in this book, showing the muscular\\nconstruction of the face and throat, and she should recol-\\nlect that the muscles must be developed by the exercise\\nwhich is given them in the various motions. All the\\nimportant facial and throat muscles are manipulated, the\\noperator anointing her fingers with a tissue or skin-\\nfeeding unguent, or skin food, which has usually a basis\\nof lanolin, because of its penetrating qualities, and is\\ngently rubbed into the skin. It is quite wonderful to see\\nhow gratefully the skin accepts nourishment in this way.\\nI am never tired of watching and marveling at the sen-\\nsibility, the responsiveness, and the power of its resist-\\nance.\\nThe skin combines within itself the powers of an\\norgan of excretion, secretion, respiration, and nutrition.\\nAfter it has absorbed the skin food it requires, it will", "height": "4364", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0176.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0177.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "MASSAGE FOR DEVELOPING MAHLER OR CHEEK MUSCLES\\n(176)", "height": "4364", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0178.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 177\\naccept no more for the time being, and the operator may\\ncommence the smoothing oat process. All lines should\\nbe smoothed out that is, they should be treated with\\nthe thumb and forefinger in an opposite direction to their\\nformation. My own masseuse says:\\nIn giving massage, the patient s face is first bathed\\nin warm water and carefully dried with a soft towel. I\\nuse a little cream or skin food to anoint my fingers dur-\\ning the treatment.\\nThe first picture shows the movement for obliterating\\nhorizontal lines and furrows in the brow.\\nThis is the rotary motion, as shown in the diagram.\\nIt is reversed in the work on the brow, but always back-\\nward on the temples.\\nIt has been well said that a woman cannot afford to\\nshed many tears after she is five and twenty, or if she\\ndoes it will be at the expense of the beauty of her eyes,\\nas the lachrymal glands are relaxed by weeping and the\\norbicular tissues (the orbicularis is the circular muscle of\\nthe eyelid) become emaciated, causing the disfigurement\\nknown as drooping eyelids, and nothing but the most skill-\\nful manipulation can restore the contour of those delicate\\ntissues.\\nThis movement is shown in the illustration and dia-\\ngram No. 2 to remove a droop in the eyelid. The\\nmovement is made with the third finger only of either\\nhand, and is vibratory.\\nIllustration No. 3 shows the movement for removing\\nlaughing wrinkles. Laughing wrinkles are not disagree-\\nable, but they certainly make a woman look older.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0179.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "178 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe temporal muscle is the one to be operated upon.\\nThe muscle is fan shaped. Its fibers arise from the apo-\\nneurosis of the forehead. The operator must exercise\\ngreat skill and care to locate this muscle, giving it the\\nproper rptary movement, thus forcing the blood to the\\nsurface, w^hich will nutrify and rebuild the fatty tissues\\nand restore the temple and nasal contour.\\nNo. 4 shoves the proper movement for developing the\\npredominating muscle of the face. The principal muscle\\nof the cheek, called the trumpeter s muscle, is a flat mus-\\ncle v^hich forms the wall of the cheek. It derives its\\nname from its being much used in blowing the trumpet.\\nBut several other muscles enter into its formation, and\\nthese become relaxed from a disorganized system, sluggish\\nblood, and many other causes. The glands shrink, the\\nfatty tissues emaciate, and then we have sunken cheeks.\\nThe operator must know how to locate these muscles,\\nbeginning at the origin of the trumpeter s muscle and\\nmanipulating upward to the predominating muscle above\\nthe ear, finishing the work on this muscle with the rotary\\nmovement which wall force the circulation through the re-\\nlaxed muscles, invigorate and rebuild the tissues. This\\nmovement, in connection with the manipulation of the\\nmahler or cheek muscles, will completely obliterate the\\nlines of care, but in giving these movements, special at-\\ntention must be paid to the chin, as the contour of this\\nmost important feature can be diminished or abnormally\\nenlarged by improper manipulation.\\nIllustration No. 5 shows the manipulation of the cheek\\nmuscles. This is a sort of clawing movement. The mus-", "height": "4364", "width": "2928", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0180.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "(179)", "height": "4364", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0181.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "(180)", "height": "4364", "width": "2896", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0182.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 181\\ncles must be accurately located and the motion light and\\nquick. Generally speaking, all facial massage movements\\nare outward and upward.\\nHollow cheeks fill out in an amazing way when this\\nmanipulation is properly and persistently given.\\nMost women begin to show age by a relaxed condition\\nof the muscles of the neck and throat, and no woman, I\\nam sure, has ever seen this first sign of advancing years\\nwithout a sinking of the heart. I do not hesitate to say\\nthat by care the contour of the neck and throat can be\\npositively restored to the firmness and beauty of youth, in\\nall cases where there is not some wasting disease and\\nwhere the subject is not over sixty years of age.\\nWhere the muscles are much relaxed, they are actually\\nsensitive to the touch, and they suffer punishment at the\\nfirst treatment if they are properly manipulated.\\nThe masseuse employed by me says: My patients fre-\\nquently declare at the first treatment: I can never stand\\nit,^ but before I have given them the third they will tell\\nme, You have coaxed my throat into an insatiate demand\\nfor the exercise you give it, just as my lungs demand\\nfresh air.", "height": "4356", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0183.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XX\\nTHE COMPLEXION\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Continued\\nII faut souflrir pour etre belle.\\nFrench Proverb.\\nAM not going to tell you of anything new in the\\nhow-to-be-beautiful line, but I am going to de-\\nscribe a process which, like everything else, appar-\\nently originated with the Greeks thousands of years\\nbefore this continent was dreamed of.\\nThe dear Greeks and Romans, as Miss Blim-\\nber used to say, with so much emotion, how much\\nwe owe them especially how much am I indebted to\\nthese clever ones of antiquity. Every time I hear of some-\\nthing new, some very latest invention in the way of cos-\\nmetic art, I feel certain that I shall find myself presently\\nmentally kotowing to a Greek contemporary of Hippoc-\\nrates. For that was about the time the cosmetic art and\\nthe how-to-be-beautiful business flourished as it has\\nnever done since. They used to deceive me, these moderns\\n(182)", "height": "4388", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0184.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "(183)", "height": "4360", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0185.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "(184)", "height": "4356", "width": "2888", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0186.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION l85\\nwith their discoveries, but they do so no longer. For some\\nyears of study years of exploration and recognition of\\nthe depths of my own ignorance have made a Foxy\\nQuiller of me on this one subject.\\nFace Skinning\\nNow, face skinning, as it is practiced at this date, is a\\nprocess to take or leave alone, as you choose. Personally,\\nI leave it alone. But there are those who may wish to\\nembrace the opportunity to have their faces skinned, and\\nthis is a free country.\\nMark you, face skinning is vaunted as the means of\\nsecuring eternal youth. And youth What the woman\\nwho realizes all its loss means to her will not suffer in\\nan attempt to get it, or an imitation of it back The\\nprocess is one of excruciating pain. I consider it attended\\nalso with a certain amount of danger.\\nThe patient who is to be skinned takes board for a\\nweek or two or three with the professional skinner. Then\\nshe pays for her board and torture in advance. She pays\\nfrom $300 to $500, which is honestly not too high. A\\nprohibitive price is, on occasions, a virtue. Next the skin-\\nnee takes a seat in a big operating chair, and the skinner,\\nafter bathing her client s face in a solution, we will say,\\nof salicylic acid other acids would be just as effective\\nwets a sponge attached to an electrode, with the same\\nsolution, which is in turn attached to an electric battery\\nand, turning the current on, passes this sponge over the\\nskinnee s countenance.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 10", "height": "4356", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0187.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "186 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe application of an irritant powerful enough to pro-\\nduce an inflammation as that which follows this first\\ntreatment savors rather of the inquisition of our late\\nfriends, the Spaniards, but no one is obliged to under-\\ngo it.\\nIf it pay a woman to be skinned, let the merry art go\\non, say I.\\nThe first stage of the process concluded, the patient\\nand here the term is no misnomer finds herself with a\\nvisage which resembles raw beef. The skinnee s face is\\nnow decorated with surgeon s plaster, which is laid on in\\nstrips up and down and crosswise, until the entire surface\\nis covered.\\nDays and nights of agony of a large and generous kind\\nare now liberally bestowed upon the subject who is wres-\\ntling so valiantly with Time. Anodynes are given to\\nmake the pain endurable. For active suppuration must\\nensue before the plasters can be removed, before the three\\nskins that are to come away can be literally eaten off,\\nand this part of the performance is no jest.\\nThe suppuration of the whole face requires about a\\nweek s time, and is truly wonderful and awe inspiring.\\nDuring this time the skinnee subsists on liquids taken\\nthrough a glass tube. She cannot speak or open her\\nmouth, which is perhaps a qualified blessing.\\nTalk about grit There never was anything approach-\\ning the pluck of the lady skinnee.\\nWhen the suppuration ceases, the plaster begins to\\nloosen. It comes only in bits, bringing with it the de-\\nstroyed cuticle, which looks like an old parchment.", "height": "4364", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0188.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "(187)", "height": "4344", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0189.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "5WMTHEMN(i\\nvi^._l\\n(laa)", "height": "4340", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0190.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 189\\nThe patient now shows a face just the color of a\\nnewborn infant s just as red, and without a line. Three\\nmonths later the redness has disappeared, and a skin of\\ndelicate texture, white and transparent, is the result.\\nThere is no question as to the improvement in appear-\\nance, if one consider the face of a woman of sixty devoid\\nof every trace of a line of thought or experience an im-\\nprovement upon the countenances that tell of self-sacrifice,\\npatience, and courage.\\nThe woman past maturity without a line in her face\\nis, in my opinion, as stupid as a country without a history.\\nBut there be those who do not share my views.\\nHence, without malice or prejudice I say:\\nFace skinning is not now a novelty. Your old friend\\nGalen knew all about it.\\nIt has been revived successfully, and is a marketable\\ncommodity. As the push-cart vender just beneath my\\nwindow shouted a moment ago\\nYou takes it or you leaves it according to what you\\nthinks.\\n^^f^", "height": "4344", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0191.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXI\\nTHE COMPLEXION Concluded\\nWent all afoot in summer s scalding heat.\\nHenry VI.\\nMANY of my correspondents and friends spend\\na goodly portion of the year by mountain,\\nstream, and sea that a special chapter may not\\nimproperly be devoted to their toilet needs\\nduring summer outings.\\nIt is quite popularly supposed that the sum-\\nmer season is especially trying to the complexion, and\\nso, forthwith, the maids and madams at the summer re-\\nsorts go armed with cosmetics, veils, and sunshades to pro-\\ntect their carefully treasured faces from the glaring sun\\nand boisterous breezes.\\nAs a rule, if one take a few simple precautions, such\\nas they take almost the whole year around, they need\\nhave no fear of looking like frights when autumn\\ncomes.\\n(190)", "height": "4352", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0192.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 191\\nThe Summer Girl\\nFirst of all, she must under no circumstances omit her\\ndaily bath. This is the essential foundation upon which a\\nclear, healthy skin is built. The bath may be taken at\\nany time but just after eating. It may be cold or tepid,\\nas the individual prefers, but a warm bath, it must be re-\\nmembered, is more cleansing. If one wish the cold bath,\\nhowever, it should be taken in the early morning and con-\\nsist of a gentle sponging with a vigorous after rab.\\nAfter a bicycle ride or any other out-door exercise\\nthere is usually room for some work. Bathe the face\\nthoroughly with soap and warm water, rinsing well with\\ntepid water and then with cold. Dry with a soft towel\\nand make an application of some good face cream. Rub\\nthe cream in gently, a very little at a time, with the fin-\\nger tips, and be careful not to put on too much. A\\nsuperfluous amount of cream on the face may have a\\ntendency to produce an undesirable growth of down. Al-\\nlow this to penetrate the pores of the skin, then wash the\\nface again with warm water, removing all of the cream.\\nFor the girl who tans the following lotion is recom-\\nmended\\nRose water 1 pint.\\nPulverized borax ounce.\\nStrained lemon juice 1 ounce.\\nUse this lotion freely after being exposed to the sun.\\nSunburn requires a liberal dose of cold cream. A very\\ngood cream is made from cucumbers, and can be easily\\nprepared at home\\nPut six ounces of sweet almond oil into the inside receptacle of\\na custard boiler. Put as much water into the outside boiler as though", "height": "4352", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0193.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "192 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nyou were aboat to make a custard. Set the two (one inside of tlie\\nother) over the fire. Have ready four good-sized cucumbers. Wipe\\nthem carefully so they are perfectly clean. Cut them into squares,\\ntwo or three inches in size. Do not remove the peel. When the\\nalmond oil begins to warm, put the cucumbers in it. Set the custard\\nboiler on the back of the stove and let the water merely simmer for\\nfour or five hours. Strain. To six ounces of the strained liquid add\\none ounce of white wax, one of spermaceti, and two ounces of lanolin.\\nHeat until the wax, spermaceti, and lanolin have melted then take\\noff the fire and beat with an egg beater until cold, adding during\\nthe beating process two teaspoonfuls of tincture of benzoin. This\\nwill make a delicious cucumber cream if properly and carefully pre-\\npared.\\nIf the face show a tendency to become red, break out\\nin little pimples, and seem overheated, then the diet must\\nbe attended to. During the hot weather one must be care-\\nful not to eat too much meat and starchy foods. The food\\nrequired is only for repairs, and not for warmth. Vegeta-\\nbles, green salads, fruits, fish, and meat sparingly should\\nform the daily menu. Cold meats are better than hot, and\\nrichly made, highly seasoned food must be abandoned.\\nDuring the soft early summer days the very best thing\\nfor the complexion is plenty of fresh air. Sunny air will\\nnever hurt the skin if it be properly protected by a tip-\\ntilted hat or sunshade, and a warm sunny rain is better\\nstill. A tramp through the country during a warm shower,\\nbareheaded, will do much to repair the ravages caused by\\nlate hours, close rooms, and the general fatigue of a fash-\\nionable season. The far-famed English complexion is due\\nto the simple fact that England is a land of warm showers\\nand mists. The English girl never thinks of staying home\\nfor rain if she did she would spend the greater part of\\nher life indoors.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0194.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 193\\nThere, is no one infallible rule which will answer for\\nthe preservation of every woman s skin.\\nThe texture of the cuticle varies according to the oc-\\ncupation, the manner of life, and the climate, so that the\\nresult may be in one case a thickening of the epidermis\\nand in another a relaxing of the tissues, and naturally the\\nsame treatment will not do for both subjects.\\nThere are also skins which have a tendency to dry on\\nexposure to the wind, others which become irritated, and\\nstill others that grow oily and have that shiny look women\\nso detest.\\nWhere one has been exposed to a strong, stiff wind\\nwith the result that the skin is irritated and sore, a soap\\npaste is sometimes much better to use temporarily than\\never so bland a soap. This paste is of very common usage\\nin France, but cannot be purchased ready made, I believe,\\nin this country at least I have never seen it for sale\\nhere. Any woman may make it at home after this for-\\nmula:\\nStrained honey 50 grammes.\\nWhite soap, shaved in thin strips (either\\nof the floating soaps will do for this,\\nor a pure white castile) 40 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 10 grammes.\\nWhite wax 30 grammes.\\nStorax 10 grammes.\\nMelt the soap, honey, and white wax and mix, then add the ben-\\nzoin and storax. Use instead of soap to wash the face before retiring.\\nA cold cream or a cucumber cream should be applied after the face\\nhas been thoroughly dried.\\nWhere the skin is dry and feels drawn, cream should\\nbe used at night and a lotion applied during the day.", "height": "4348", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0195.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "194 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThis lotion, which is called Beauty Cream, is made as\\nfollows\\nRose water 200 grammes.\\nMilk of sweet almonds 30 grammes.\\nMilk of bitter almonds 8 grammes.\\nWhere the skin is oily, a milk vinegar used diluted\\nwith a little water night and morning is efficacious.\\nMILK VINEGAR\\nAlcohol 30 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 30 grammes.\\nStrong white wine vinegar 30 grammes.\\nMix and let stand for a week, and pass through filtering paper.\\nAnother simple summer lotion is made thus:\\nRose water 100 grammes.\\nBorax 5 grammes.\\nSpirits of camphor 10 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 5 grammes.\\nUse whenever required.\\nSTRAWBERRIES AND SPINACH FOR THE COMPLEXION\\nStrawberries form a delicious basis for many excellent\\ncosmetics.\\nSTRAWBERRY CREAM\\nPut six ounces of sweet almond oil into the inside receptacle of\\na custard boiler. Put as much water into the outside boiler as though\\nyou were about to make a custard. Set the two, one inside of the\\nother, over the fire. Have ready one full quart of large, ripe, hulled\\nstrawberries. It is essential that the strawberries should be perfectly\\nripe. When the almond oil begins to warm put the strawberries in.\\nSet the custard boiler on the back of the stove, cover the inside re-\\nceptacle, and let the water in the outside kettle simmer for four or\\nfivQ hours. Tak^i the almond oil and the strawberries out. Let them", "height": "4364", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0196.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "THE COMPLEXION 195\\nstrain through a clean, fine, cheese-cloth bag. Do not hurry the strain-\\ning process or attempt to squeeze the bag. To six ounces of the\\nstrained liquid add one ounce of white wax, one ounce of spermaceti,\\nand two ounces of lanolin. Put all over the fire and heat until the\\nlast three articles have melted. Then take off the fire and beat con-\\nstantly until cold, adding during the beating process two teaspoonfuls\\nof tincture of benzoin, ten drops of oil of lemon, and six of oil of\\nneroli.\\nThis will make a delicious strawberry cream if prop-\\nerly and carefully prepared.\\nSTRAWBERRY PASTE\\nTo refresh the complexion and perfume the skin.\\nFresh strawberries pound.\\nGum tragacanth ounce.\\nViolet powder i ounce.\\nDissolve the tragacanth with enough rose water to form a thin\\nmucilage. Crush the strawberries mix and stir them up with a suf-\\nficient quantity of rose water to form a half liquid paste add the\\ntragacanth and the violet powder apply the paste to the face at\\nnight and wash off next morning with tepid water. It is said that\\nthis operation repeated for three successive nights will remove all\\nsunburn and tan.\\nSTRAWBERRY WATER\\nFinest ripe strawberries, crushed 8 pounds.\\nPure alcohol 2 quarts.\\nDigest and distill near to dryness in salt or steam bath. This is\\nboth agreeable and most fragrant.\\nIt has very high repute as a cosmetic and is used di-\\nluted with water for tan, sunburn, or as an agreeable ac-\\ncessory to the bath,", "height": "4360", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0197.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "196\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nSTRAWBERRY VINEGAR\\nBruised ripe strawberries 1 pint.\\nWhite wine vinegar 1 pint.\\nMacerate twenty-four hours. Press and strain. Add eight ounces\\nof rose water. A delicious and stimulating lotion for the face, slightly\\nastringent.\\nThere is scarcely anything which can compare with\\nspinach as a spring medicine and beautifier. The girl\\nwho religiously eats it as a Lenten diet, will blossom forth\\non Easter morning with a complexion that will rival the\\nlilies by its fairness. Spinach contains salts of potassium,\\niron, and other things which conduce to long life and a\\nfair skin, and is worth many bottles of cure for that\\ntired feeling.", "height": "4356", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0198.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "Ci1L\u00c2\u00abrf?T5\\nCHAPTER XXII\\nTHE EYES AND EYEBROWS\\nWhere is any author in the world\\nTeaches such beauty as a woman s eye\\nLove s Labor Lost.\\n.HE eye appears to be more immediately con-\\nnected with the soul than any other organ. A\\nwoman reflects every emotion, almost every\\nthought from her two wonderful, priceless eyes,\\nand no feature of her face is more a telltale\\nof her nature. Show me, says the old Chi-\\nnese proverb, a man s eyes, and I will tell\\nyou what he might have been. Show me his mouth, and\\nI will tell you what he has been. The same is true of\\nwomen. Up to thirty or thirty-five a woman may be\\nactress enough to make her eyes tell one tale, while her\\nlife would reveal another; but little by little* the true\\nstate of a woman s soul stands forth in the expression,\\nthe frankness, the furtiveness, the candor, or the boldness\\n(197)", "height": "4348", "width": "2756", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0199.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "198 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nof her eyes. Healthy and well-formed eyes should be\\nneither too widely open, nor too closed. They should\\nbe neither close together, nor yet too wide apart; they\\nshould neither protrude nor be too deep set. The white\\nof the eye should be of a bluish cast. Notwithstanding a\\nlot of nonsense which has been written about the chang-\\ning of the color of the eye, no such miracle has ever been\\naccomplished. We must go through our pilgrimage with\\neyes the color it has pleased Nature to paint them. Pro-\\ntuberant and sunken eyes are not caused always by a\\nfault of conformity, but by too much or too little adipose\\ntissue around them. It is offcen possible, by eliminating\\nor creating fat, to correct their appearance. Proper diet\\nand massage will accomplish this feat in either case.\\nDull eyes may be made lustrous by a proper attention\\nto hygiene. A beautiful eye is clear, full, brilliant, and\\nappropriate in color to the subject s complexion. Every\\nwoman should take the utmost care of her eyes, bathing\\nthem several times a day in pure water, and avoiding\\nevery operation that will overtask them. The practice of\\nusing any of the so-called eye beautifiers cannot be too\\nstrongly condemned. Foolish women, who cannot realize\\nthe danger they incur, sometimes resort to preparations of\\nbelladonna or the vapor of diluted Prussic acid. The im-\\nmediate result is an unnatural brilliancy of the pupil, but\\nthe practice long continued has frequently been known to\\nproduce decay and total blindness.\\nWhen the eyes are reddened or swollen by excessive\\nweeping, or a long stretch of work, the subject should rest,\\nand apply a soothing lotion.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0200.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "THE EYES AND EYEBROWS 199\\nIn cases of granulated eyelids, I have had great success\\nwith the following recipe:\\nYellow oxide of mercury 1 grain.\\nRose water ointment ounce.\\nApply to eyelids morning and night.\\nWASH FOR INFLAMED EYES\\nBorax 2 grains.\\nCamphor water (not spirits of camphor) 2 ounces.\\nDrop a little of the solution into the eyes two or three times a\\nday and bathe the lids with the mixture.\\nAN EYE BRIGHTENER\\nThe juice of a lemon squeezed into a tumbler of water and taken\\noccasionally, the last thing at night or first thing in the morning, has\\na wonderful effect on the complexion and eyes. It clears the liver\\nand makes the eyes bright and sparkling. After taking the lemon\\nalways clean the teeth, as the acid quickly promotes decay.\\nClipping the eyelashes in youth will sometimes produce\\na heavier growth, and an occasional application of a lotion\\nmade by dissolving ten grains of sulphate of quinine in\\ntwo ounces of cologne will stimulate the growth. The\\neyebrow-growth formula, which is given on another page,\\nmay also be used with care for the eyelashes, and is usu-\\nally efficacious.\\nCrossed eyes and squinting eyes are so easily curable\\nthat there is no excuse for girls reaching womanhood so\\nafflicted.\\nTEA EYEWASH\\nHot water poured on tea leaves, and the mixture allowed to steep\\nand cool, makes a soothing eyewash.", "height": "4356", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0201.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "200 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWITCH-HAZEL EYEWASH\\nDistilled witch-hazel 1 ounce.\\nPure water 1 ounce.\\nTo be used especially for eyes irritated by cold. Bathe the eyes\\nfrequently with the wash.\\nBRANDY EYEWASH\\nBrandy 1 drachm.\\nWater .1 ounce.\\nTo be used especially for eyes irritated from cold. Apply fre-\\nquently.\\nALUM EYEWASH\\nAlum 1 grain.\\nPure water 1 ounce.\\nDrop gently, night and morning, into the eye with the tip of a\\nfeather, a pipette, or some such thing, and this will sensibly relieve\\ninflammation.\\nZINC EYEWASH\\nSulphate of zinc 1 grain.\\nRose water 1 ounce.\\nDrop the solution gently into the eyes, night and morning. For\\ninflamed eyes.\\nA good salve for inflamed eyes, as follows\\nOleate of mercury salve 1 drachm.\\nApply to the eyelids after bathing them gently, night and morn-\\ning, with hot water.\\nTHE Eyebrows\\nThe eyebrow has not failed to secure fame in prose\\nand poetry, and the eyebrow immortalized by Shake-\\nspeare s lover Sighing like a furnace with a woful bal-\\nlad made to his mistress eyebrow was doubtless long,", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0202.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "THE PERFECT EYE\\n(201)", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0203.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "OLD TYPE OF BEAUTY\\n(202)", "height": "4360", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0204.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "THE E\u00c2\u00a5ES AND EYEBROWS 203\\nstraight, archless, narrow, and delicately penciled, accepted\\nby the Greeks as the perfect feminine eyebrow.\\nThere are various opinions on the subject, and it is\\nconceded that the Greek eyebrow is quite in accord with\\nthe conception of mere physical beauty in women. Like\\nthe rosebud mouth, it does not indicate the highest order\\nof intelligence, and the arch is expressive always of greater\\nsensibility and greater strength of character.\\nScant growth of the eyebrows invariably denotes lack\\nof vitality, and external applications are useless to pro-\\nmote or produce a growth until the general health im-\\nproves on the contrary, heavy, thick eyebrows indicate a\\nstrong constitution and great physical endurance. They\\nare not beautiful on a woman s face, however much they\\nmay signify either mental or bodily vigor, and when\\nthey are not heavy, but droop and meet at the nose, they\\nare disagreeable, and are said to accompany an insincere\\nand prying nature. Fortunately, with a pair of small\\ntweezers these quite superfluous hairs may be removed,\\nand let us hope the traits they are supposed to indicate,\\ndisappear with them.\\nRoma.ntic women usually have a very well-defined arch\\nin the center of the eyebrow, while a sense of humor is\\nindicated in the arch nearer the nose.\\nLong, drooping eyebrows, lying wide apart, indicate an\\namiable disposition.\\n_ When the eyebrows are lighter in color than the hair,\\nthe indications are lack of vitality and great sensitiveness.\\nFaintly-defined eyebrows placed high above the nose\\nare signs of indolence and weakness.", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0205.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "204 HARRIET HUBBARD AVER\\nThe toilet of the eyebrow is simple. The hair of the\\neyebrow can be trained to lie close and smooth to the\\nskin, thus resembling the penciled lines we read of so\\noften, by the aid of a tiny little brush manufactured for\\nthe purpose, and for sale at all shops dealing in articles\\nfor the toilet.\\nWhere the eyebrows are too broad and inclined to be\\nbushy, they should be daily trained by brushing, and will,\\nin a short time, show an immense improvement.\\nWhen the hair falls out of the eyebrows, use the fol-\\nlowing ointment, which has never failed in my experience\\nto arrest the disease and cause a new growth\\nRed vaseline 3 ounces.\\nTincture cantharides 1 ounce.\\nJamaica rum 1 ounce.\\nOil rosemary 5 drops.\\nMix all thoroughly apply twice daily with the eyebrow brush.\\nFor continuous use where the eyebrows are healthy, a\\nlittle glycerine and rose water will give the delicate line\\nemphasis and brilliancy.\\nVery black eyebrows give the face an intense and\\nsearching expression when natural they accompany a pas-\\nsionate temperament.\\nVery light eyebrows rarely are seen on strongly intel-\\nlectual faces, although the color of the eyebrow is not ac-\\ncepted singly as denoting lack of intelligence the form\\ngives the key to the faculties and their direction.\\nRed eyebrows denote great fervor and ambition; brown\\na medium between the black and the red.", "height": "4364", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0206.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "THE EYES AND EYEBROWS 205\\nA cosmetic successfully used for darkening the eye-\\nbrows is the Fard Indien, either in pencil form, which is\\nthe more convenient, or applied with a delicate brush\\nfrom the porcelain tablet.\\nWhere the eyebrows are very light, almost white, they\\nmay be dyed or stained so that the artifice is absolutely\\nimpossible to detect, and the improvement will sometime\\nmake the difference between a plain and a pretty woman.\\nThis operation should not be done by an amateur. Any\\nskillful person accustomed to the management of hair dyes\\ncan do it successfully.\\nWhere the eyebrows meet at the nose, they give the\\nface a most sinister and suspicious expression. In such\\ncases the superfluous hairs should be removed by the aid\\nof small tweezers or by electrolysis. If the tweezers be\\nused, the operation must be renewed once in three or four\\nweeks.\\nA too heavy growth of eyebrows may be treated by\\nelectricity. All the superfluous hairs can be removed by\\nthis method, which is by far the best.\\nA.-ll", "height": "4356", "width": "2756", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0207.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXm\\nTHE NOSE\\nIn love, i faith, to the very tip. of the nose. Shakespeare.\\nvHE most perfectly modeled nose is a trial if it\\nhas the habit of getting spotty or turning red\\nwith or without apparent provocation. I do\\nnot know of anything more vexatious to wom-\\nankind than a red, blotchy, or shining nose.\\nUsually, although it is difficult to impress the\\nfact upon the afflicted woman, red or blotchy\\nnoses are the result of some excess or carelessness, often\\naggravated until there is a well-defined malady which\\nmust be cured before the blush will fade or the eruption\\ndisappear. Acidity of the stomach, indigestion, dyspepsia,\\npoor circulation, all mean more or less congestion, and\\nfrequently, the blotchy or fiery nose is the outward sign\\nof an inward stomach derangement. Acidity of the stom-\\nach is very disagreeable to bear and destructive in its\\neffects upon the complexion. In its early stages it may\\n(206)", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0208.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "THE NOSE 207\\noften be controlled by the following most simple of reme-\\ndies\\nHalf teaspoonful of sulphate of soda. Dissolve in half tumbler\\nof boiling hot water. Drink as hot as you can one hour before break-\\nfast. Repeat the dose in thirty minutes.\\nPure, hot water, drunk as hot as possible, several glasses\\na day will often without any medicine at all cure this\\nform of indigestion, and the red nose will vanish with the\\nreturn of normal digestion. Tight lacing tight clothing\\nof any kind any stricture, in fact, will sometimes pro-\\nduce a red or blotchy nose and it seems superfluous to\\nadvise the addition of an inch or two to the waist meas-\\nure or looser shoes to the sufferer. Local irritation will\\nalso cause inflamed nostrils, and of course the influenza,\\nrose fever, and that hideous epidemic called hay fever, have\\ntheir accompaniment of weeping, inflamed noses and eyes.\\nChange of climate, it is conceded, is the only escape from\\nthis yearly martyrdom, but I have seen wonderful effects\\nproduced in cases of chronic rose and hay fever by Mar-\\nchand s hydrozone and glycozone treatment as follows\\nBy means of an atomizer made of glass and rubber,\\nspray the nose and throat copiously and repeatedly, morn-\\ning and evening with a mixture made of:\\nOne tablespoonful of hydrozone,\\nwith 8 to 20 tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water,\\naccording to the degree of inflammation of the nasal cavi-\\nties. In case of extreme sensitiveness, use even still a\\nlarger proportion of water.\\nSome patients may use a mixture made of one part of\\nhydrozone with four parts of water, while others could", "height": "4352", "width": "2764", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0209.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "208 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nnot stand it any stronger than one part of hydrozone di-\\nluted with thirty parts of lukewarm water.\\nAlways take great care that the remedy passes through\\nthe post nasal cavities and reaches the throat, so as to\\nthoroughly cleanse the diseased surface.\\nIn the absence of an atomizer, apply the remedy to\\nthe nose by sniffing the liquid from the hand through the\\nnostrils repeatedly, and gargle the throat. It is always\\nbeneficial to swallow the remedy.\\nDo not blow the nose too hard, as it might cause a\\ntemporary bleeding, on account of the excessive tender-\\nness of the mucous membrane.\\nIt often happens that the patient feels during one hour\\nor so after each spraying, a temporary obstruction of\\neither one or the other of the nostrils.\\nThis unpleasant feeling may be accompanied by fre-\\nquent sneezing, which is due to the tickling sensation pro-\\nduced in the nasal cavities by the presence of a great\\nquantity of the minute bubbles of ozone being set free\\nfrom the decompositions of the remedy coming in con-\\ntact with the infected surface.\\nIn chronic cases, when the middle ear is affected, deaf-\\nness may result from this disease, in which case ozonized\\nvapor inhalations should follow immediately the cleansing\\nof the nose and throat, and should be administered by\\nmeans of Marchand s Hand Atomizer and Ozonizer with a\\nmixture made as follows\\nHydrozone .1 tablespoonful.\\nWater 1 tablespoonful.\\nPure glycerine 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nShake well and renew every three days.", "height": "4364", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0210.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "THE NOSE 209\\nWhen chronic catarrh of the nose is very tenacious\\nand painful, in addition to the above treatment, apply a\\nfew drops of glycozone to the nostrils. Sniff it gently as\\nit will accelerate a cure and relieve the sensation of full-\\nness in the nostrils. Glycozone relieves also the dryness\\nof the mucous membrane which often accompanies chronic\\ncases.\\nSometimes intense itching of the nose is caused by an\\ninternal trouble which, according to Dr. Augagnem, a well-\\nknown French dermatologist, may frequently be cured by\\nthe following:\\nSYRUP FOR REDNESS AND ITCHING OF THE SKIN\\nPhenic acid (crystals) 5 grammes.\\nPure glycerine enough to dissolve.\\nSyrup of orange peel 400 grammes.\\nDose for an adult, one teaspoonful twice daily.\\nThis same prescription with the phenic acid dimin-\\nished to three grammes is, according to Augagnem, excel-\\nlent for pruritus or eczema in children.\\nLet my readers who are troubled with poor circulation\\nand red noses try the following most successful and\\nagreeable treatment. It consists of what the French call\\nan aromatic bath, with massage after.\\nFOR AROMATIC BATH\\nRosemary tops 1,000 grammes.\\nBoiling water 10 quarts.\\nBicarbonate of soda 250 grammes.\\nMake an infusion of the leaves and boiling water let stand half\\nan hour strain add the soda, and pour all into the warm water pre-\\npared for the bath. This bath is a calmative. It should be taken\\nwarm. r", "height": "4356", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0211.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "210 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nA red nose is generally the sign of bad circulation or\\nimpure blood. It is frequently accompanied also by cold\\nfeet. In this case rubbing the feet for fifteen minutes be-\\nfore retiring will sometimes so stimulate the circulation\\nthat the redness disappears from the nose with the im-\\nproved general condition of the subject. A very good\\nlotion for the inflamed condition which is usually the ac-\\ncompaniment of a red nose is made of rose water mixed\\nwith 2 per cent, of its bulk of carbolic acid.\\nShiny, oily noses may often be cured by bathing the\\nentire face daily with a weak solution of soda water.\\nUse common washing soda, a bit about the size of a\\nfilbert to say a quart of warm water. The circulation is\\nalways at fault in these cases, and sensible women who\\nhave troublesome noses are asked to take plenty of fresh\\nair and exercise and eschew all highly-spiced food. Use\\nyour scrubbing brushes on refractory noses. It will make\\nthem redder for a few days, but it will help in their cure\\nfinally.\\nFOR AN OILY NOSE\\nSulphate of zinc 4 grains.\\nCompound tincture of lavender 16 drops.\\nDistilled water 2 ounces.\\nUse as a lotion. In some cases where the skin is excessively oily\\nit is necessary to remove the oil from the cuticle. Where this is so,\\nit is well to wipe the skin with a soft rag impregnated with benzine\\nbefore using the lotion.\\nFOR A SHINY NOSE\\nThe remedy here given is often very successful.\\nTake one drachm of boracic acid and mix it with four ounces of\\nrose water. Apply the lotion to your refractory nose as often as\\nnecessary.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0212.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "THE NOSE 211\\nI have received a letter from one of my correspondents,\\nto which it is pertinent to refer. She says I am a very\\ngood-looking woman or should be but about fifteen\\nyears ago, when I was a little girl of ten, I fell while\\nskating and broke my nose it was not properly set, and\\nit is now almost a deformity. I am assured it can be\\nmade straight, but I would like you to tell me honestly\\nif you think it really can be made over into a nice\\nnose.\\nI certainly do, for I have seen the operation performed\\nbut for all such operations you should carefully select an\\nexpert surgeon. Consult your family physician who will\\nvery likely tell you to let your nose alone insist that it\\nis not well enough until it is as straight as it can be\\nmade, and get him to tell you the name of the most skill-\\nful surgeon within your reach. Crooked noses can un-\\nquestionably be made straight, even after maturity and\\nin early childhood, owing to the soft nature of the carti-\\nlages that form the nostrils, the shape of the lower part\\nof the nose may be much improved by gentle daily pres-\\nsure. A beautiful nose is the greatest possible ornament\\nto the face of a woman and so rare that it excites the\\nadmiration at once. Lavater, the physiognomist, declared\\nthat there were thousands of beautiful eyes to one hand-\\nsome nose. It is a somewhat singular fact that only about\\nthree in every hundred noses are to be found where they\\nbelong in the middle of the face; the ninety-seven will\\ndigress from the perpendicular line, whereas the bridge\\nshould form a straight line drawn exactly between the\\neyes. The Greek nose, which is the most beautiful, is so", "height": "4344", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0213.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "212 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nrare that artists have frequently looked in vain for a\\nGreek-nosed model.\\nI was crossing the ocean some years ago, and could\\nnot but remark the curious manner in which one of the\\npassengers appeared to follow a lady acquaintance who\\nsat near me at the table. The man was finally presented\\nto me as Mr. Blank, a distinguished foreign painter. About\\nforty seconds after he had been introduced to me, he said\\nMadame, could you present me to your friend I have\\nnever seen such a nose on a woman s face. I would give\\na year of my life for a model with such a nose. I have\\nnot been able to take my eyes from Madame s face since\\nshe came on board the ship. It was true, the lady did\\nhave a beautiful Greek nose, and the stranger s peculiar\\nmanner arose from the ardor of the artist who had never\\nbefore, he assured us, seen a perfect nose of Greek form.\\nI presented the painter to the lady, and during the re-\\nmainder of the voyage he amused us all by his evident\\nadoration of the perfect nose. We cannot all have Greek\\nnoses, but the coming generation need none of them have\\npug noses or turned-ups. Daily care in childhood, pressing\\nthe pugnacious feature into shape, pulling it gently down,\\nwill lengthen and straighten it. A pug nose is amusing\\nin a child or even piquant in a young girl, but a middle-\\naged woman an old woman with a pug or turned-up\\nnose is far from attractive. Do not let us have any more\\nof them. (See Chapter XLII.)\\nRed veins which are seen frequently on the nose may\\nbe arrested by great abstemiousness and care not to ex-\\npose the skin to sudden changes of temperature. I have", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0214.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "THE NOSE 213\\nnever seen an actual cure of a well-defined case of telan-\\ngiectasis, which is the technical name for red veins. Per-\\nsons suffering from this disfiguring blemish should never\\ntouch alcohol in any form. To resort to the knife or to\\nelectricity is not only very dangerous, but, as I have said,\\nso rarely successful I know of no authentic case.\\nTo Stop Bleeding from the Nose\\nThis may be caused by violence, or may arise from an\\nimpoverished state of the blood. When it occurs in per-\\nsons of middle age it is more serious, as it is then often\\na symptom of some other disease. The bleeding can gen-\\nerally be stopped by making the patient raise both his\\narms above his head, and hold them there for some time.\\nSponging, with cold or iced water, the forehead or face,\\nor applying a towel wet with cold water between the\\nshoulders, will in most cases succeed. The application of\\na strong solution of alum or iron-alum to the inside of\\nthe nostrils, or plugging the nostrils with lint or cotton\\nwool soaked in the solution, may be necessary if the\\nbleeding be profuse. The health of persons subject to\\nthese attacks should be improved by nutritious diet, ani-\\nmal food, with potatoes, water cresses, and fruit. The fol-\\nlowing prescription may be relied upon\\nTincture of steel 2 drachms.\\nDilute muriatic acid 1 drachm.\\nSyrup of orange peel 1 ounce.\\nInfusion of calumba 7 ounces.\\nMix. For a child, 1 tablespoonful in a wineglass of water before\\nmeals; for an adult the dose may be increased.", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0215.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "214 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nPlacing a small roll of paper or muslin above the front\\nteeth, under the upper lip, and pressing hard on the same,\\nwill arrest bleeding from the nose by checking the passage\\nof blood through the arteries leading to the nose.\\nBleeding at the nose, when not caused by a blow or\\nother violence, will usually cease of itself in a short time\\nas it is frequently an effort of nature to relieve the con-\\ngested vessels. When it becomes persistent or is exces-\\nsive, the simplest and most effective means of arresting\\nit is to make a probe of a slender lead pencil or any-\\nthing of like form, and introduce by this means a small\\nbit of soft cotton previously dipped in a mild solution of\\nalum, creosote, strong black tea or even cold water.\\nShould this not succeed, a little of one of these liquids\\nmay be snuffed up the nostrils or a small piece of ice\\nplaced in the one from which the blood flows.\\nDr. Negrier, a physician of Tangiers, discovered that in\\nordinary cases of nosebleed, raising the arm of the af-\\nfected side will arrest the flow. It is well to try this\\nmethod before resorting to any other treatment. Women\\nof lymphatic temperament are subject sometimes to a\\nperiodical swelling of the nose which makes its appear-\\nance usually after eating or on coming into a warm room\\nfrom out-of-doors on a cold day. Nothing is more de-\\nstructive to a woman s looks. Frequently the swelling is\\naccompanied by intense itching, and the nose will appear\\nto be in a highly inflamed condition. Without rhyme or\\nreason the inflammation will usually disappear as sud-\\ndenly as it came. While it lasts it is annoying to an ex-\\ntreme degree. The quickest and safest remedy for such", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0216.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "THE NOSE\\n215\\nan afl9.iction is a large dose of castor oil, and a warm\\nsoda bath, or a lotion composed of rose water mixed with\\ntwo per cent, of its bulk of carbolic acid. To prevent a\\nrecurrence of the swelling, the strictest attention to the\\ndiet should be maintained. The patient should live on\\nfruits, vegetables, and saline drinks, taking an abundance\\nof out-of-door exercise.", "height": "4348", "width": "2760", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0217.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIV\\nTHE EAR\\nAnd here have I the daintiness of ea.r. Henry IV.\\nHE perfect ear should be about twice as long as\\nbroad, and should be attached to the head al-\\nmost straight or slightly inclined backwards,\\nand should touch the head with the back of\\nits upper point. The critical observer will find\\nvery few perfect ears. Mothers and nurses\\nare greatly to blame for the almost deformed\\near we constantly see in our young people. There is\\nnothing gives a lad so uncouth an appearance as wide,\\nprojecting ears, and although a girl can dress her hair to\\nsomewhat lessen the ugly deformity, as long as the ears\\nstand out from the head they are a great blemish. There\\nis no need to have recourse to a surgeon to effect a cure\\nin outstanding ears. A simple bandage worn at night,\\nwhich holds them flat to the head, is all that is neces-\\nsary. There is some sort of a patent skeleton cap, I\\n(216)", "height": "4380", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0218.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "THE EAR 217\\nbelieve, which has the same purpose in view, and is more\\ncomfortable to wear, particularly in warm weather. The\\near contains no bones and is for this reason easily\\ntrained.\\nThe reprehensible practice of piercing the ears is trace-\\nable to remote antiquity. I am opposed to it, not from\\nan aesthetic point of view alone, though I think any mu-\\ntilation of the flesh abominable but piercing the ears is\\nnot always a simple and harmless operation. It has been\\nknown, when clumsily performed, to develop erysipelas\\nand abscesses of a most painful ajid sometimes dangerous\\ncharacter. Eczema of the ear is a common ailment and\\na most disagreeable one. Indeed, all maladies of the ex-\\nternal ear are peculiarly offensive. Women subject to\\neczema should eat quantities of fruit, salads, particularly\\ndandelion and water cress, they should take frequent warm,\\ncalmative baths, and above all, they should not get either\\nchilled or overheated. For a local application a weak\\ndilution of carbolic acid is healing and agreeable, or a\\nfew drops of listerin diluted with water will allay the\\nfearful itching of eczema of the ear. The following oint-\\nment is also excellent\\nCARBOLATED OINTMENT\\nMelt together 5 ounces pure lard, and 2^ ounces white wax add\\nounce balsam of fir, and when it begins to cool, stir in ounce\\ncarbolic acid. The addition of balsam of fir to this preparation corrects\\nthe disagreeable odor of the acid, and renders it slightly adhesive,\\nwhich is desirable.\\nThe ear is liable to various disorders. Children almost\\nwithout exception, suffer from what is called earache,", "height": "4360", "width": "2760", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0219.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "218 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ncaused by a cold, occasionally by a blow. For common\\ncases of earache, nothing is more effective than the appli-\\ncation of either one of the lotions which I here give.\\nLOTION NO. I, FOR EARACHE\\nTincture of opium 1 drachm.\\nOlive oil 1 drachm.\\nTincture of opium is otherwise known as laudanum. The mixture\\nshould be heated. Insert a smal] piece of raw cotton thoroughly\\nmoistened with the lotion.\\nLOTION NO. 2\\nSulphate atropine 8 grains.\\nPure water 1 ounce.\\nMix. Apply to the inside of the ear by the aid of a camel s-\\nhair pencil brush. The application may be made frequently.\\nWhere the earache is very severe a five to ten per\\ncent, solution of cocaine administered by the aid of the\\ncameFs-hair pencil brush, will temporarily at least, give\\nquick relief.\\nWhen the earache is continuous the subject should\\nconsult a skillful aurist. Failure to do this not unfre-\\nquently has resulted in permanent deafness.\\nOccasionally earache is caused by the formation of a\\nhard mass of wax at the bottom of the outer passage.\\nThis accumulation will also produce deafness. It is too\\ndangerous to attempt to dislodge this hardened cerumen,\\none s self. The subject should immediately go to an ex-\\nperienced practitioner in diseases of the ear, for relief.\\nChildren are sometimes subject to running from the\\nears. In such cases they should be immediately taken for\\nexamination to a good aurist.", "height": "4360", "width": "2852", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0220.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "THE EAR 219\\nGrown persons, as well as children, suffer agonies from\\nearache. Where it is possible, a physician should always\\nbe called, as the pain which seems to be old-fashioned\\nearache may be the precursor of a more serious ailment.\\nWhere one lives at a distance from a doctor, it is well to\\nhave a remedy at hand. I have tried Duval s earache\\ncure frequently, and always with success. The Duval\\nformula is as follows:\\nLaudanum and chloroform, 15 drops each. Mix. Wet a small bit\\nof cotton with the mixture, and introduce into the ear. The first effect\\nis a sensation of cold then there is a numbness followed by scarcely\\nperceptible pain and a refreshing sleep. It is of the greatest importance\\nthat the external ear should be kept clean, and above all that the yellow\\ncerumen should never be allowed to remain in the passage until it has\\nhardened.\\nWhen the ear has been neglected until the cerumen is\\nhardened, it produces temporary deafness, which may be\\nremoved by the following\\nSassafras oil 10 drops.\\nGlycerine 1 fluid drachm.\\nOlive oil J ounce.\\nMix thoroughly and drop a little into the ear every day until the\\ncerumen is softened so that it may be removed.\\nThe ear should always be cleansed by the aid of a\\nsmall toilet utensil called an aurilave, usually made of\\nbone or ivory, with a tiny sponge covering one end.\\nIt is an extraordinary and most disagreeable fact which\\nI feel compelled to mention, that many women, otherwise\\nscrupulously clean, seem not to understand how to wash\\nand cleanse the ear of the accumulations of dust or ceru-\\nmen. Nothing can be more shockingly disgusting than", "height": "4356", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0221.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "220 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthe result of such neglect. Occasionally one sees a group\\nof blackheads in the shell of the ear. They are firmly\\nimbedded, and more difficult to remove than in the face.\\nThey should be expelled by pressing either side of them\\nwith the fingers which should be covered with a handker-\\nchief or bit of linen, to prevent the nails from cutting\\nthe skin. After the blackheads have been removed, the\\near should be thoroughly washed with soap and water to\\nwhich may be added a bit of washing soda or a little\\ncarbolic acid in solution.\\nLiving insects sometimes get into the ear, and cause\\ngreat alarm. Thej are instantly destroyed by pouring a\\nspoonful of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into the\\near, retaining it there until the next morning by means\\nof a piece of cotton wool, when it may be washed or\\nsyringed out with a little mild soap and warm water.", "height": "4364", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0222.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "mmn\\nCHAPTER XXV\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH\\nOh, how rife in show,\\nThy lips those tempting cherries kissing grow.\\nMidsummer Night s Bream.\\nPERFECT mouth is, according to sculptors and\\npainters, of medium size, the upper lip bow-\\nshaped, the under nearly straight. The lips\\nthemselves, in nature of a bright crimson,\\nshould be neither too thick, which gives\\nthem a sensual expression, nor too thin, as\\nin the latter case the whole countenance as-\\nsumes an appearance of hardness and penuriousness. The\\ninfluence of the mouth and teeth on the personal beauty\\nof a woman is known and freely admitted by all, and if\\na girl have a beautiful set of even, white, compact teeth,\\nshe has the foundation of enough beauty for the average\\nwoman. With the most irregular features, I have seen\\nwomen who were irresistible because they were possessed\\nA.--12\\n(221)", "height": "4356", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0223.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "222 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nof an utterly enchanting mouth and teeth. Indeed, were\\nI to choose any one feature of the face as the keystone\\nfor beauty building, I should say unhesitatingly, give me a\\nbeautiful mouth and perfect teeth, and I will do the rest.\\nI can transform ugly skins into lilies and roses, make\\ncoarse hair glossy and luxuriant, give the eyes a gentle\\nand womanly expression so that they will be sweetly at-\\ntractive even though jper se they are not beautiful, but I\\nam always rather discouraged by a noticeably malformed\\nmouth, and distinctly so when the lips of a woman part\\nto reveal decayed, misshapen teeth, pale, unwholesome\\ngums, and a diseased and fetid breath. However we live\\nfortunately in the age of wonderful dentistry, and even\\nthe unfortunate woman with crooked, misshapen teeth\\nneed not despair. Crooked teeth may be straightened, de-\\ncayed teeth cleaned and filled, discolored ones bleached,\\nand even hopelessly diseased ones may be treated and the\\ndisorder arrested, and there are artificial teeth made to-day\\nwhich really do defy detection. It is positively essential\\nto every woman s beauty to keep her mouth healthy or\\nher breath will be offensive.\\nDisease and health for a warm pair of lips\\nLike York and Lancaster, wage active strife.\\nOne on his banner front the white rose keeps\\nAnd one the red and thus with woman s life,\\nHer lips are made a battlefield for those\\nWho struggle for the color of a rose.\\nNothing so soon is fatal to the beauty of the mouth as\\ndisease in any form. The fever which gives the eye its\\nunnatural and often fascinating brilliancy will also paint", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0224.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 223\\nthe cheeks with a flush of exquisite rose, its effect on\\nthe lips is to dry them and make them parched and\\nbrown and blistered looking, and the breath is tainted in-\\nstantly by disease. You will hear a physician or a nurse\\nexclaim: She had a sore throat. I knew at once by her\\nbreath it was diphtheritic or *He had a typhoid\\nbreath or She certainly had consumption. I recog-\\nnized the phthisis breath. Whenever the breath is con-\\ntaminated, you should look at once for the cause. In\\nchildren frequently it is due to some slight derangement\\nof the stomach, or it may be and usually is, the fore-\\nrunner of a childish malady. But where it is chronic in\\nyoung or old, there is need of a skillful doctor at once.\\nThe catarrhal breath is peculiarly offensive, yet I think it\\ncan be almost always greatly palliated if not entirely dis-\\ninfected. For immediate use the following is an antiseptic\\nwash, and will for a certain time correct an offensive\\nbreath.\\nANTISEPTIC TOOTH WASH FOR OFFENSIVE BREATH (Beaumez)\\nPhenic acid 1 sramme.\\nBoric acid\\nThymol (in crystals)\\nEssence of mentha\\nTincture of anise\\nDistilled water\\n25 grammes.\\ngrammes 50\\n30 drops.\\n10 grammes.\\n3 pints.\\nRinse the mouth with the above, which should be diluted for use\\nin the proportion of one-half tooth wash to same quantity of clear water.\\nUse after each meal and at any time required.\\nFor a positive cure of catarrhal breath I know of\\nnothing so efficacious as Marchand s hydrozone and gly co-\\nzone treatment.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0225.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "224 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhen the breath is continuously offensive, the follow-\\ning pastilles are recommended, as they may be carri ed in\\nthe pocket and are very efficacious:\\nPulverized coffee 45 grammes.\\nWood charcoal 16 grammes.\\nPulverized sugar .15 grammes.\\nVanilla extract 15 grammes.\\nMucilage made from Senegal gum enough to form paste of proper\\nconsistency.\\nMix the coffee, charcoal, and sugar thoroughly with\\nmortar and pestle, add the vanilla, then the mucilage,\\nwhich is made by dissolving the gum in water. Roll the\\npaste out thin and cut in little squares. Keep in tin or\\npasteboard boxes.\\nAll children of our day have a right, which advanced\\ndentistry in various branches gives them, to a set of reg-\\nular, sound, white teeth. I will qualify this somewhat\\nby excepting the little unfortunates who come into this\\nworld with the taint of scrofula (or consumption, which\\nis also scrofulous), in their veins. Even with these ter-\\nrible legacies much may be done to strengthen and assist\\nthe bone in the formation of the teeth and the straight-\\nening of crooked, overlapped ones. Many a girl has had\\nall her chances of ever becoming a pretty woman quite\\nruined by a mouthful of crooked, overlapping uneven\\nteeth.\\nFrequently a girPs looks are destroyed by a narrow and\\nprotruding upper jaw which a little care will transform\\ninto a symmetrical feature. In these cases, it is well al-\\nways to consult a good scientific surgeon dentist. Do not,", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0226.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 225\\nhowever, permit a sound tooth, no matter how it over-\\nlaps, to be extracted on the advice of any one dentist\\nteeth are far too precious to run any risks about. In\\nevery case, the teeth should be straightened as they come\\nin, for ivhile they are coming in the jaw will yield and\\nmake place for them. After they are firmly set, even\\nthough one resorts to extracting one or two where they\\nare crowded, to make room for the others, the result is a\\nspace and the remaining teeth will only stay straight\\nwhile the torturing plate has them in a vice. I have\\nseen children suffer such agonies from those cruel plates\\nthat I would never consent to the use of one again. I re-\\nmember too vividly, one dear child s torture and my own\\nhorror, when, upon examining the plate which was to\\nstraighten her teeth, and had been by the dentist firmly\\nattached by all sorts of brutal contrivances so she could\\nnot herself take it out, I found the proud flesh protrud-\\ning from it in bits, some of them half an inch in length,\\nall around between the plate and her teeth. This child\\nsuffered martyrdom through the brutality of a dentist,\\nand after all, the operation was a failure, resulting in\\nnervous prostration of the victim, the loss of two beauti-\\nful sound teeth, and no result in straightening those\\nwhich were to be connected by the vacancies made in\\nextracting. The bill for this service was five hundred\\nand twenty-five dollars. Let one such experience be a\\nlesson to those who read of it.\\nIt is now conceded that a great deal depends on the\\ncare of the baby teeth. The period of dentition is of\\ncourse a very trying one, but it can be greatly ameliorated", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0227.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "226 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nby care and the greatest possible cleanliness. A teething\\nbaby should have at least two full warm water baths each\\nday and the little mouth and gums should be washed fre-\\nquently with a weak solution of borax and cooling water.\\nThe very moment the first little tooth appears, you should\\nbuy the baby a tiny soft camel s-hair toothbrush, and\\nmorning and night each little tooth should be cleansed.\\nUse the borax solution for this, and if agreeable to the\\nbaby, add just a drop of essence of peppermint. Never\\nextract the first teeth to make way for the second Let\\nthem drop out as they will, or at the most assist them\\nonly to make their exit when they are hanging by a mere\\nthread. Children, and in fact grown people, rarely brush\\ntheir teeth properly. Teach the little people to brush\\nup and down, never across the tooth in the latter the\\nenamel is rubbed across the grain and frequently is worn\\noff by too much brushing the wrong way. The best denti-\\nfrice for children is camphorated chalk, which is readily\\nmade at home. It is cleansing, antiseptic, and wholesome.\\nThe following is an excellent formula for it:\\nTOOTH POWDER NO. i\\nPrecipitated chalk *4 ounces.\\nPowdered orris root 8 ounces.\\nPowdered camphor 1 ounce.\\nReduce the camphor to a fine powder in a mortar, moistening it\\nwith a very little alcohol. Add other ingredients. Mix thoroughly,\\nand sift through a fine bolting cloth.", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0228.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 227\\nTOOTH POWDER NO. 2\\nA good tooth powder may be prepared at a small cost\\nas follows\\nTake two ounces of prepared chalk, add to it one-half an ounce\\nof powdered orris root and a quarter of an ounce of carbonate of\\nsoda. Mix and pass twice through a wire sieve and it is ready for\\nuse.\\nOne of the most offensively painful afflictions of the\\nmouth is too abundant salivation, which is frequently ac-\\ncompanied by a relaxed condition of the lips and a lack\\nof control of the muscles. There is nothing more disgust-\\ning than the accumulation of saliva in the corners of the\\nmouth. The following is the famous ZeissP formula for\\nthe cure of what is called in English text-books, a slob-\\nbering mouth.\\nFORMULA FOR TOO ABUNDANT SALIVATION (Zeiss!)\\nDistilled water 250 grammes.\\nCinnamon water 50 grammes.\\nSyrup of cinnamon 20 grammes.\\nTincture of iodine 4 grammes.\\nDilute with water. Rinse the mouth well two or three times daily.\\nChildren often acquire bad habits of making mouths\\nof grimacing and sometimes suck or bite the lips until\\nthey so distort them as to produce a permanent deform-\\nity and ruin the expression of the face. They should be\\ndeterred from habits which are fatal to good looks.\\nMouthy children are unpleasant, but they are curable.\\n(See also Chapter XLII.) It is astonishing, however, to", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0229.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "228 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nnote certain persons, not children by an}^ means, who ap-\\npear to be utterly unconscious of the appearance of their\\ncountenances when they are chatting or laughing. They\\nengage in the most extraordinary muscular contortions\\nand distortions sometimes revealing whole sets of not too\\nattractive teeth and even half an inch of gum above\\nthem and presenting an almost savage appearance. I\\nthink it would be wise to insist where a young girl i3\\ngetting into such a way, that she should be made to\\nwatch her uncanny appearance by conversing before a\\nmirror. The vanity happily inherent in our sex and with-\\nout which we should, in my opinion, be but a sad lot of\\nfemales as Mr. Pickwick would say, may be depended\\nupon to effect a cure.\\nMassage is the only treatment for the drooping cor-\\nners of the mouth. Make the movement upward and out-\\nward downward facial movements work ruin.\\nIt is something to live in the day of crown fillings.\\nThink of it, those who have gone through the martyrdom\\nof tooth extracting and the miseries of the old-fashioned\\nartificials. Yet, it is not so very long ago since teeth\\nwere filled or stopped in good old London with wooden\\nplugs. Think of the agony of that operation. I saw a\\nwoman the other day who is conservative to the last de-\\ngree. She is rejoicing in most beautifully scientific den-\\ntistry including bridge-work, crowns, and all the latest\\nnovelties and luxuries of the dental world. I could\\nscarcely believe my eyes. She looked as though she had\\nfound the fountain of youth and taken a plunge in its\\nrestoring waters. It is not astonishing that in old times", "height": "4364", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0230.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH\\n229\\nthe removal of a front tooth was the punishment for\\nmany crimes. To be minus a front tooth was a lasting\\nbrand of degradation and convicted prisoners would beg\\nfor the lash or for any other form of punishment.\\nSometimes it happens that despite the greatest care\\nthe gums soften and recede there is usually an inherited\\ncause. Taken in time the following wash is very eflBca-\\ncious in hardening the gums\\nWASH FOR RECEDING GUMS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Delestre)\\nCatechu aa 32 grammes.\\nMyrrh 32 grammes.\\nBalm of Peru 4 grammes.\\nExtract of cochlearia .155 grammes.\\nMacerate for eight days filter use diluted with water to rinse\\nthe mouth and gums as often as required.\\nThe famous Eau Botot, a dentifrice of great renown, is\\nmade as follows:\\nEAU BOTOX\\nGreen anise\\nCinnamon\\nCloves\\nPellitory\\nCochineal\\nCream of tartar\\nBenzoin (tincture)\\nEssence of peppermint\\nAlcohol a 80\\n64 grammes.\\n16 grammes.\\n1 gramme.\\n4 grammes.\\n5 grammes.\\n5 grammes.\\n2 grammes.\\n4 grammes.\\n2000 grammes.\\nMix the cream of tartar, benzoin, and cochineal together, then add\\nthe other ingredients. Macerate for eight days. Filter and bottle for\\nus\u00c2\u00a9.", "height": "4340", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0231.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "230 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nFor chapped lips the following is a good ointment:\\nLIP SALVE\\nSpermaceti IJ ounces.\\nWhite wax 1 ounce.\\nAlmond oil 4 ounces.\\nAlkanet root .3 drachms.\\nMelt all in a water bath. Let it nearly cool and add\\nBalsam of Peru 4 drachms.\\nOil of cloves 20 drops.\\nEssence of ambergris 3 drops.\\nA CURE FOR TOOTHACHE\\nAcetate of morphine grammes 05.\\nEssence of menthol 4 drops.\\nPhenic acid (pure) 20 drops.\\nCollodion Q. S. to make 4 grammes of the mixture.\\nMoisten a bit of cotton and apply to the cavity.\\nOINTMENT FOR COLD SORES AND FEVER BLISTERS\\nrrains.\\nCamphor 5\\nPowdered arrowroot drachm.\\nSubnitrate of bismuth. drachm.\\nOintment of rose water J ounce.\\nApply whenever necessary to the lips.\\nMYRRH AND BORAX MOUTH WASH\\nRub together in a mortar one-half ounce each of pulverized borax\\nand strained honey then add gradually one pint of pure alcohol and\\none -half ounce each of gum myrrh and red saunders wood. Let the\\nwhole stand in a large-mouthed glass bottle for two weeks. Shake the\\nbottle occasionally. Pass through a filtering paper and it is ready for\\nuse.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0232.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVI\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH Continued\\nBid them wash their faces\\nAnd keep their teeth clean.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Coriolanus.\\nBSOLUTELY cleaii teeth never decay. Crevices\\nor imperfections in the enamel at any\\npoint, and crowded teeth where food finds\\nlodgment between, are the first to show evi-\\ndences of decay.\\nFood ferments in a few hours in these\\nminute pockets and bacteria multiply assisted\\nby conditions of warmth and moisture. Lactic acid is the\\nbiproduct that these minute germs form and it soon dis-\\nsolves out the lime salts from the enamel and dentine\\nunder the enamel, thus leaving the hair like nerve fila-\\nments exposed to heat, cold, and irritating substances as\\nsugar, acids, etc.\\nThe advanced dentist of to-day polishes away these\\nrough surfaces and if the crevices be too deep to be\\n(231)", "height": "4348", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0233.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "232 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\npolished out of the enamel they should be filled before\\ndecay has begun.\\nPreventive measures are employed first, to destroy germs\\nin minute crevices and cavities prepared for filling and\\nsecond, to harden the tooth structure beneath the enamel\\n(dentine) to prevent further decay.\\nThis is accomplished by drying the teeth thoroughly\\nafter applying thin sheets of rubber around the teeth to\\nprotect the gum, and then saturating the cavity and all\\ncrevices with formalin. This is a powerful germicide and\\nyet is harmless in that it may be applied to the tongue\\nwithout the slightest injury. It has the property of hard-\\nening the tooth structure under the enamel. This quality\\nprevents decay positively. In proof of this it may be said\\nthat a bullock s eye placed in a solution of formalin will\\nbe so chemicalized by it that bacteria (germs) of any kind\\nwill not multiply on its surface for weeks after its re-\\nmoval from the solution, although the eye is of a gelat-\\ninous consistency and readily decomposes if not placed in\\nthis solution.\\nCrowded Teeth\\nIrregularities of the teeth that cause decay may be\\ncorrected in two ways. First, by the extraction of as\\nmany teeth as may be necessary to bring about an even\\ncondition, but a definite diagnosis of what any individual\\ncase may require is only arrived at by the intelligent\\ndiagnosis of a specialist in this branch of dentistry, in\\nconsultation with the dentist in charge.", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0234.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 233\\nSecond: A crowded condition may be overcome by\\nsimply removing or polishing away between the teeth, re-\\nmoving enough to allow the teeth to be made even and\\nhealthy by drawing them in position by fine silk threads\\nor other appliances.\\nThis applies particularly to adult teeth that may be\\ncorrected more easily and in less time than in youth. It\\nis not generally known, but a fact that adult teeth may\\nbe more easily corrected than children s teeth, for the\\nreason that the teeth are fully erupted and it is but nec-\\nessary to move them forward or backward to bring them\\nin alignment.\\nStained and discolored teeth may be bleached to their\\nnatural color by means of twenty-five per cent, pyrozone,\\nin the hands of an intelligent practitioner, who applies\\nthe rubber dam to protect the gum. Dark teeth or yellow\\nteeth may be made a shade or two lighter by this appli-\\ncation, properly applied. Teeth stained with iron, causing\\ndark margins, can also be brought back to their natural\\ncolor. This preparation is absolutely harmless, as any\\ngraduate of dentistry will tell you, and simply removes\\nthe stain without in the slightest degree injuring the\\nenamel.\\nMisshapen, worn teeth, teeth too long, too short, or too\\nlarge can all be corrected by slightly changing the shapes\\nwith very fine stones. In a degree the teeth may be\\nsculped, so to speak, into pleasing shapes and correct lines\\nwithout the slightest injury and with positive benefit.\\nIndeed, it is a hygienic measure that is being taken\\nadvantage of by the advanced practitioners of this day", "height": "4352", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0235.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "234 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nto prevent decay of the teeth. The enamel surfaces are\\npolished, and it is a proved fact, established beyond the\\nquestion of a doubt, that clean, smooth surfaces do not\\nlodge bacteria and, therefore, cannot and do not decay.\\nIt is a mistaken idea that the enamel of the teeth is ex-\\ntremely thin. As a matter of fact, it is very thick, par-\\nticularly at the point and sides, where the greatest strength\\nis required.\\nIt forms a thimble, covering the dentine or bony por-\\ntion of the tooth from the cutting edge to the gum mar-\\ngin, and no injury can arise from removing a portion of\\nit, if that surface, be ground with fine stones and highly\\npolished afterwards. Absolutely clean teeth do not decay.\\nPorcelain Inlays\\nAdvanced practitioners of to-day avoid the display of\\ngold. Modern porcelains, lately developed in Germany, are\\nso perfect that enamel inlays may be set in almost any\\ncavity where it may be seen in talking or laughing, the\\ncolor and union so perfect that when moist it cannot be\\ntraced. Gold filling, be it ever so perfect, is unsightly and\\nwill not be countenanced in the front teeth by people of\\nrefinement when they know that this may be replaced, in\\nthe majority of cases, by carefully fitted enamel inlays.\\nSome cavities are so very small that this cannot be done,\\nand indeed, in small cavities it is not necessary but in\\nlarge cavities, where it is a pronounced disfigurement in\\nan otherwise handsome set of teeth, it is very desirable\\nthat this change be made. I have seen corners of teeth", "height": "4392", "width": "2852", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0236.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 235\\nwhere large, unsightly gold fillings have been removed and\\nreplaced with porcelain with two pins and fitted to the\\ntooth so perfectly that you simply could not find where\\nthe two were joined. Besides, it was stronger, less painful,\\nand less tedious than the gold filling, and the nerve was\\nnot destroyed as would be necessary in crowning.\\nArtificial Teeth\\nPerfect artificial teeth that defy detection should com-\\nbine natural color, lightness, strength, and correct lines.\\nLooking at a perfect denture from the front the first\\nsix teeth should show slightly below the lip in ordinary\\nconversation and the side teeth should set close to the\\ngum in a straight line from the eye tooth back to the\\nmolars. In this way the teeth at the side are partially hid-\\nden, and only the front teeth show. This entirely over-\\ncomes that condition where an imperfect plate shows so\\nmany teeth that it looks over full of teeth. Looking at a\\nperfect plate, side view, when in the mouth, the teeth\\nshould follow the perfect lip, a cupid s bow or a double\\ncurve on each side of the center. In other words the four\\nfront teeth are a shade longer than the side and the molars\\ncurve up in the back to meet the lower teeth.\\nThe features are easily restored at the wing of the\\nnose and just below the corners of the mouth by raising\\nthe porcelain gum at these points.\\nNatural effects are only produced by an artist in this\\nwork. The six front teeth should be very slightly curved\\nfrom the corners of the mouth forward to meet in the", "height": "4344", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0237.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "236\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ncenter and should restore the upper lip slightly more than\\nthe lower.\\nTwenty-year teeth in forty-year mouths, youthful im-\\nmature types in color and shape should never be used for\\nmature people whose natural teeth, be they ever so per-\\nfect, will show worn places, slight abrasions, inequalities.\\nHere again it will require an adept to copy nature as\\nnatural effects are not produced by manufacturers of arti-\\nficial teeth. It is done by the skillful dentist alone.", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0238.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVII\\nTHE MOUTH AND TEETH Concluded\\nOf such aspect\\nThat they ll not show their teeth in way of smile.\\nMerchant of Venice.\\n.HERE is practically no limit to the wonders per-\\nformed by the beauty culturist of to-day.\\nLong ago we discovered methods by which\\nwrinkles and furrows may be removed and a\\nparchment skin be made fair and smooth, but\\na woman s teeth have been to the knowing\\nones a telltale of her age which a restored\\ncomplexion only emphasized.\\nMore depends upon a woman s teeth, in determining\\ngood looks, than upon any other feature. The mouth that\\nparts to exhibit decayed or discolored teeth destroys the\\nclaims of its possessor to beauty.\\nA missing tooth is equally fatal to a woman s looks.\\nArtificial teeth are best described as artificial.\\nA.-13 (237)", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0239.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "238 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nTooth Implantation\\nThe most extraordinary feat in cosmetic dentistry is\\nthe implantation of a live tooth to fill the vacancy in the\\nmouth of a subject desirous of artistically closing the gaps\\nmade by the extraction of decayed teeth years ago.\\nThis operation I myself was invited to witness, and\\nwatched with amazement and delight, knowing what it\\nwould mean to thousands of my readers if successful.\\nIt occurred some months back, and because it has been\\nperfectly successful and also because of the marvelous\\nimprovement in the looks of the lady herself, I have\\nwith her kind permission secured photographs taken be-\\nfore and after the implantation, which are here repro-\\nduced to show just what tooth implantation is.\\nI may add that at this operation a celebrated dentist\\nfrom San Francisco and one from New Orleans were pres-\\nent, each having come expressly from these remote cities\\nfor the sole purpose of witnessing this feat in dentistry.\\nThe patient is a lady in the forties. The teeth she\\nwished replaced had been extracted for over two years.\\nThe dentist secured two natural teeth of the same\\ncolor for there is a great difference in the shades of\\nteeth as well as in their form. These teeth were ob-\\ntained from a dentist who makes a specialty of extracting.\\nDespite the advances in dentistry and the protests of\\ndentists, there are each day in the year many sound teeth\\nextracted in New York city.\\nIt is by no means uncommon for a man or woman\\nwho has had to endure the pangs of toothache to de-", "height": "4388", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0240.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "MRS. X. BEFORE IMPLANTATION OF TEETH\\nMRS. X. AFTER IMPLANTATION OF TEETH\\n(239)", "height": "4344", "width": "2808", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0241.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "THE PERFECT MOUTH (PROFILE)\\n(240)\\nTHE PERFECT MOUTH (FRONT VIEW)", "height": "4388", "width": "2852", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0242.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "THE MOUTH AND TEETH 241\\ntermine once for all to have no more of that sort of\\nanguish and to insist upon having every tooth extracted.\\nFrequently crowded teeth also are eased by extracting.\\nHowever the dentist secured them in this case, and had\\nthe natural teeth, which were shown to us, and were\\nawaiting implantation in an antiseptic bath.\\nThe operation proper of implantation is neither a long\\nnor a painful one. No ether or chloroform was used.\\nAfter opening the gum, under cocaine, a new socket is cut\\ninto the bony process with bone drills and without pain,\\nexcept in a slight degree. A natural tooth or root is set\\nin the bony process, and around this root new bone forms.\\nThe gum heals around the tooth, and when the operation\\nis properly done, under antiseptic precautions, it is a last-\\ning, serviceable tooth, as strong as any in the mouth.\\nA small mature root is used, one that is firm and hard\\nin texture. The tooth is sterilized in solutions and when\\nplaced in the socket is surrounded by bone. It is held in\\nplace by fine silk threads, and becomes firm in from thirty\\nto forty days. The operation has been indifferently done\\nfor many years, and many of the failures can be traced\\nto the insertion of too large roots that were not com-\\npletely surrounded by bone.\\nThere are so many details in the operation that can\\nonly be explained by a specialist that I shall not go into\\nit minutely, further than to say that the operation applies\\nto single spaces where one or two teeth have been lost,\\nand where there are enough teeth remaining to ligate the\\nimplanted teeth in position. There are three operations\\nof this description.", "height": "4364", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0243.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "242 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nReplantation of the natural teeth may be described as\\nan operation wherein a tooth extracted is replaced in the\\nsame socket.\\nTransplantation is the insertion of a natural tooth from\\nsome other person in a socket from which the root has\\nbeen recently extracted.\\nImplantation, the operation I assisted at, is new rela-\\ntively and was first performed about twelve years ago. It\\nmatters not how long the tooth may have been out that\\nis planted, or how long the socket has been* closed. It is\\nopened by the surgeon and a full natural tooth placed in\\nits home. It is received kindly and heals quickly.\\nThe pictures show the condition of the gum before\\noperating. The teeth had been extracted, leaving these\\nspaces for more than two years. The gum was opened\\nand natural hard teeth set in. In thirty days a com-\\nplete and firm attachment was formed, and now the pa-\\ntient enjoys the comfort of a perfect set of natural teeth.\\nShe is unable to distinguish the implanted teeth by\\nany peculiar sensation, and declares they feel precisely\\nlike all the others.\\nThe dentist who performed this remarkable operation\\ntells me that front teeth that have dropped out may\\nsometimes be successfully replanted and that he has fre-\\nquently removed a loosened tooth, treated it, and replanted\\nit successfally.", "height": "4392", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0244.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVIII\\nARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST\\nIn her bosom I ll unclasp my heart and take her hearing prisoner. Shakespeare^\\nHAVE not much patience with the mothers of skinny,\\nleathery, and bony-armed daughters, and in this,\\nthe triumphal hour of physical culture, we do not\\nsee many all-bone arms. The fashionable woman\\nis in danger of the other extreme and of develop-\\ning the lumpy arm, which may indicate an em-\\nbryonic Sandow for actual physical strength, but\\nwhich, from an aesthetic point of view, is what Carlyle\\nwould call ^most unbeautiful.\\nI recently saw at an evening function a new woman,\\nto use the accepted phrase. She was a well-known so-\\nciety girl about twenty-four; she went in as she ex-\\npressed it, for athletics, don t you know. She wore a\\nlow, white silk gown, her face was freckled and weather-\\nbeaten, with a distinct collar mark about the throat, above\\nwhich the skin was certainly four shades darker than\\nbelow it. Her arms were bare also, and the muscles were\\n(243)", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0245.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "244 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nSO developed that they appeared in lumpy protuberances\\njust as those of the professional athlete are wont to do.\\nI could not find the young lady in question attractive.\\nShe had overdone it, as we Americans are apt to do. A\\nvery well-known young man of fashion, in speaking of\\nthis maiden, said She s an awfully good fellow, don t\\nyou know; but one rather wishes she were not so dingy\\nlooking about the face, and that throat really needs to go\\nto the place where you send your togs to get cleaned,\\ndon t you see.\\nTwixt two extremes the golden mean is a good\\nmotto for the enthusiast of either sex. Let us not abuse\\nthe freedom which the evolution of the new woman has\\naccorded us. Personal beauty is impossible without good\\nhealth, to be sure, and health means the bountiful enjoy-\\nment of fresh air and the rightful exercise of all our\\nmuscles, but it does not mean the destruction of all the\\ndelicacy and beauty of texture of a woman s skin, nor the\\nfostering of lumps of muscle for the round and enchant-\\ning gentle curves of perfect feminine beauty. A beautiful\\narm should be round, soft, smooth, white, and plump, not\\nfat. It should taper gently to the hand with an adorable\\nlittle curve at the small delicate wrist. Many young girls\\nhave developed just such a beautiful arm from a very\\nmeager, skinny beginning. I have made innumerable\\npretty arms from very scant material. Here is the\\nmethod\\nFirst of all, exercise. Calisthenics is derived from two\\nGreek words, meaning beautiful and strength and cal-\\nisthenics we must have as our first step. Exercise, never", "height": "4384", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0246.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 245\\nenough to over fatigue, walking in the open air, horse-\\nback riding, tennis, any of the ordinary methods of phys-\\nical culture, with a care not to overdo. This will develop\\nthe muscles, which are the plastic material of beauty.\\nWith the fresh air, those of you who are too thin should\\ntake the diet for increasing flesh, which was given in\\nCatherine Lane s treatment. (See Appendix A.) A month\\nof this regimen will work a marked improvement in the\\ncontour of the arm, but the open air exercise should be a\\npart of your daily life at all times if you wish to keep\\nyour beauty. Now for the texture of the skin. When it\\nis coarse and inclined to be rough and even pimply, scrub\\nthe arms with a camel s-hair, large-sized bath brush, as\\ndescribed in Chapter V. Every night when taking your\\nevening bath just before retiring, and after thoroughly\\ndrying your arms apply the following lotion\\nLOTION, GIANNINI\\nTincture of benzoin 1 fluid drachm\\nTincture of tolu 20 drops.\\nRose water 1 pint.\\nWhen the arms are unusually thin, it will be well to\\ntry massage for them not too violent but gentle, deep\\nmassage. Let the operator rub the Skin Food, for which\\nI have previously given formula (Chapter XXIIL) well\\ninto the skin during the treatment.\\nIn the course of a month, the rough skin sometimes\\ncalled goose flesh will have disappeared you naay then\\nuse the following lotion to make the arms white and\\npretty", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0247.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "246 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nLOTION FOR WHITENING THE ARMS\\nPure glycerine 1 ounce.\\nHydrochloric acid, specific grav. 1 16 1 Imp. fluid drachm.\\nRose water 2 fluid ounces.\\nBichloride of mercury (crystals) 6 grains.\\nDistilled water 4 ounces.\\nAlcohol 2 ounces.\\nDissolve the bichloride of mercury in the alcohol, then add the\\nother ingredients. Keep in a tightly-stoppered bottle away from the\\nreach of children. This is a well-known pharmaceutical preparation,\\nhighly indorsed, but is intended for external use only.\\nGirls with uncomely arms, disfigured by redness or\\nblotches, may improve their appearance very much by\\nthe following lotion\\nPowdered borax 3 drachms.\\nGlyc\\nerine ounce.\\nElder flower water 12 ounces.\\nThis lotion is fragrant as well as eflBcacious.\\nSuperfluous hair on the arms is to be deplored, but it\\nis certainly not such an affliction as on the face. Do not\\nbe led into the belief that the scrubbing brush will in-\\ncrease the growth of hair on either your face or arms.\\nThe contrary effect is produced by the brush which rids\\nthe pores of the skin of the greasy secretions which are\\nthe life and luxuriance of the undesired hair.\\nFrequently, by the use of a good, pure soap and a brush\\nalone, the hair on the arms will disappear, and I know\\nof nothing except the regulation depilatory for taking off\\nthe hair immediately. I should never recommend it ex-\\ncept in very extreme cases.", "height": "4364", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0248.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 247\\nOnce in a while one happens to meet a poor girl who\\ncannot bare her arms because of a growth of thick, black,\\nstiff, wiry hairs. No one can blame her for wanting it off\\nat once. All depilatories should be carefully used. The\\nfollowing is effective for the arms and may be applied to\\nthe skin. Operate upon a small space at each application:\\nDELCROIX S POUDRE SUBTILE\\nOrpiment 1 ounce.\\nQuicklime 10 ounces.\\nStarch 13 ounces.\\nReduce each ingredient to a fine powder, mix and keep the mixture\\nin a closely-stoppered bottle. When you wish to use the depilatory,\\ntake a little from the bottle and add a drop or two of warm water,\\nbarely enough to make a paste. Now apply to the hairy skin. As\\nsoon as the paste dries, or even sooner, if much smarting occur, wash\\nit off and the hair will come off at the same time. If the skin seem\\ninflamed, use a little cold cream or ointment to allay the burning.\\nThe rough skin which appears on the upper forearm\\ncan be made smooth by scrubbing and using a pumice as\\nwell as ordinary pure toilet soap. This treatment may\\ncause a slight superficial irritation, but it will not last long,\\nand the following or any of the healing lotions heretofore\\nadvised will allay the effect of the rather heroic treatment.\\nLOTION FOR SLIGHT SKIN IRRITATION\\nPulverized borax 6 drachms.\\nPure glycerine ounce.\\nOrange flower water 12 ounces.\\nMix and bottle.\\nThis is a delightful wash for any slight skin affections,\\nand may be used with most soothing effect for children\\nwhen sun or wind burned.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0249.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "248 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nVaccination scars upon the arms are not beautifying,\\nbut I cannot indorse the much-vaunted method of remov-\\ning them by surgery. They are less unsightly than a scar\\nfrom an abscess or sore, because the association is quite\\ndifferent. Of course it goes without saying that all little\\ngirls nowadays are vaccinated upon the leg.\\nNothing but exercise of the arm muscles will prevent\\nthe arm of womankind from growing soft underneath near\\nthe shoulder, and exercise alone will harden it once it has\\nbecome flaccid. The condition is one which betokens\\nyears, but it can be defied. The first four of the dumb-bell\\nexercises and Indian clubs are excellent for developing the\\nrelaxed muscles. (See Chapter XXXYI.) Use also the fol-\\nlowing astringent wash daily\\nASTRINGENT LOTION\\nPulverized alum 1^ drachms.\\nDistilled water 1 pint.\\nGlycerine .1 ounce.\\nRose water 4 ounces.\\nDeep, brisk massage will ako aid in developing relaxed\\nmuscles. The neck and throat are more beautiful in\\nwoman from her early prime to her ripe maturity that\\nis to say, the girlish beauty of a youthful neck is not so\\nmuch in the lines, which are usually a little sharp, but in\\nthe general air of innocence and sweetness, and also of\\ndelicacy, which is ever associated with the slender white\\ncolumn of the virginal throat and dainty shoulders. It is\\nthe full-blown woman of thirty who is eblouissante when\\nthe splendor of her neck and bust are revealed. It is a\\nmistake to consider either the elongated, crane-like neck", "height": "4364", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0250.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 249\\nor the short, stocky throat which resembles the frustum\\nof a cone, as the model of beauty. The neck is properly\\nthe column of the head and when quite symmetrical\\nshould be a little wider at the base and at the top with\\nthe gentlest of inward slopes toward the middle. It is a\\ncurious fact that so many women learn to use their feet\\nand hands gracefully and expressively, and never seem to\\nconsider that the neck is most eloquent in its gestures.\\nWe are too many of us stiff-necked or wabbly-necked or\\nwe crane our necks. Very, very few are the graceful-\\nnecked women of our times.\\nEvery woman dreads to see the muscles relaxing under\\nher chin, and the first signs of age are those that come\\nwith the flabby throat which follows this condition of\\nthe muscles.\\nMme. Marchesi, the famous teacher of singing, is over\\nseventy years of age, and her throat is as white and firm\\nas that of a young girl.\\nThe writers declare that they cannot tell how she has\\npreserved this beautiful throat.\\nThere is really no secret about it. All great singers\\nhave maintained the firmness and beauty of their throats\\nbecause of the exercises the muscles get from vocaliza-\\ntion. For this reason, women with thin, scrawny throats\\nand contracted chests, should take voice culture.\\nMme. Lehmann, who acknowledges to her fiftieth birth-\\nday, is a living proof of the effects of exercising the vocal\\ncords.\\nMme. Lehmann s throat is that of a woman of twenty-\\nfive beautiful, firm, white and symmetrical.", "height": "4356", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0251.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "250 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIn London some years ago I heard an Englishman say\\nthat he used to willingly pay his two guineas for a seat\\nat the opera where he could watch Lady Randolph\\nChurchill s graceful neck and head. I cannot teach you\\nfrom this distance how to hold your heads, but you have\\nthe great artistes Sara Bernhardt, and Emma Eames\\nfor models of the nineteenth century and the Greek\\nstatues for the standard of antique beauty. It is an\\nundoubted truth that the neck and throat of a high-\\nbred woman are incomparably more beautiful than in the\\nwoman of lower origin. Blood will tell there is no dis-\\nputing it.\\nThe shoulders of perfect loveliness should be neither\\nwide nor meanly contracted, but of medium width and\\nshould droop or flow into the arms in a graceful undulat-\\ning curve. Square shoulders are not pretty, nor are they\\nwomanly. Of late years, the metal trimmings about the\\nnecks of our bodices have often resulted in dark, some-\\ntimes almost black stains around the throat. Soap and\\nwater will have little or no effect upon such discolora-\\ntions, but I have not failed to remove them by a wash\\ncomposed of a weak dilution of hydrochloric acid about\\none fluid ounce of the acid to nineteen of the water.\\nThe two circles or rings around the throat which fre-\\nquently mark the thirty-fifth year, particularly of a plump\\nbeauty, may be lightened or sometimes removed by wear-\\ning looser neck bands and by gentle but frequent manip-\\nulations. The present choking style of neck arrangements\\nis ruinous to the beauty of the throat, which should have\\nunrestricted liberty.", "height": "4388", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0252.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST\\n251\\nDuring the season of sea bathing the neck and throat\\nare very likely to become brown or yellow through expo-\\nsure to the sun. They may be beautifully whitened by\\nthe application of the following paste\\nHoney, one ounce; lemon juice, one teaspoonful oil of bitter al-\\nmonds, six drops the whites of two eggs and enough fine oatmeal\\nto make a smooth paste.", "height": "4336", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0253.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "o\u00c2\u00a7/ o^ is\\nyieis^\\nCHAPTER xxi:;^\\nARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST Concluded\\nCleanse the stuffed bosom of that perilous stuff. Macbeth.\\nOME of my readers will perhaps recall the padded\\nbusts of twenty-five years back. I remember\\nquite well that no woman was considered of\\nfine figure about the time of the reign of the\\nGrecian bend and tilters without a correspond-\\ningly abnormal development of bust. I have a\\ncousin who rejoiced in a waist measurement of\\neighteen inches, a bust which called for forty-four inches\\nroom, and when this young lady honored my mother s\\nhome with her magnificent presence, waist, bust, Grecian\\nbend, tilting skirts and high-heeled French shoes, I was\\nthe most humble of her adorers and used to pray heaven\\nthat some day, some wondrous, beautiful day, it might be\\nmy fortune to resemble her.\\nIt seems scarcely necessary to say a warning word\\nconcerning pads, for no dressmaker of renown will at pres-\\nent countenance them. They are responsible for many\\n(252)", "height": "4392", "width": "2876", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0254.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 253\\ndiseased and broken down women and 1 think, despite our\\nexaggerated and ridiculous fin de siecle fashions of the\\npresent time, we have much to be thankful for in the ex-\\ntirpation of false busts, palpitators and kindred consump-\\ntion breeders.\\nWe no longer delight in forty-four inch busts, but we\\nwere not much less absurd in our recent shoulder mon-\\nstrosities. Modern fashion decrees that the average meas-\\nurements of a finely formed woman in perfect health\\nshould be Circumference at the level of the nipple, 32\\ninches; from nipple to nipple, one-fourth of the circumfer-\\nence or 8 inches waist measure from 28 to 29 inches.\\nThe best method for developing the bust is vocal cul-\\nture combined with massage and frequent ablutions. I\\nbeg particularly to warn women against the use of the\\nglass cup for the development of the breasts, as I have\\npersonally seen several serious glandular swellings and\\nabscesses produced from its use. For decreasing a too\\nabundant or as the French term a too fleshy breast\\nMonin authorizes the following, which is called the Kisch\\nTreatment. First the breasts are to be anointed with the\\nfollowing\\nPure deodorized iodoform 1 part.\\nVaseline 2 parts.\\nEssence of peppermint .11 drops.\\nThen cover the breasts with hot linen cloths dipped in the follow-\\ning lotion\\nPulverized alum 1 part.\\nAcetate of lead 15 parts.\\nDistilled water .20 drops.\\nOver the cloths lay oiled paper and leave the whole on from ten\\nto twelve hours. This treatment should be continued for several weeks.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0255.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "254 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhere the bust development is very small, and there\\nis no ravaging disease, it can be increased by exercise,\\nvocal culture and bathing in warm water. The unguent\\nused for massage should be of a tissue-feeding nature.\\nMany such formulas have been given elsewhere.\\nDecrease in the space between the tips of the breast is\\na very bad indication, it too often means consumption\\nof the lungs. In such cases, many a life may yet be saved\\nby the inhalation of compressed oxygen gas. A special\\ncompound is now prepared for such patients, and most\\nwonderful are the effects. The almost immediate chest\\nexpansion produced by the inhalation of compressed oxy-\\ngen will be attested by every physician.\\nTO MAKE THE BUST FIRM\\nOrange flower water 1 pint.\\nDistilled water 4 ounces.\\nTincture of myrrh ounce.\\nTincture of benzoin ounce.\\nTincture of quillaya ounce.\\nEssence of bergamot 1 drachm.\\nAlmond milk 1 ounce.\\nRectified alcohol 1 ounce.\\nEssence of pink 1 drachm.\\nPowdered alum 90 grains.\\nLinen Collars and Pretty Necks\\nEvery girl and woman has thanked her lucky stars for\\nthe shirt waist within the past few years, and indeed,\\nthere is no one garment that deserves so much commen-\\ndation at our hands.", "height": "4364", "width": "2852", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0256.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 255\\nI am the last person in the world to abuse the crisp\\nshirt waist, but I am bound to say that the high, stiff\\ncollar, without which it is incomplete, is very destructive\\nto pretty throats.\\nA shirt-waist girl, after an acquaintance of, say six\\nmonths, with the high, stiff, linen collar, will be very apt\\nto discover a number of small parallel lines forming just\\nunder the chin. These are not the lines which are called\\nthe Venus bracelet by the French, and with the circle\\nabout the throat of plump women, making their appearance\\nabout the thirty-fifth year. They have nothing to do\\nwith the lines of age, which are accompanied by the\\nflabby, loose, double chin of many women in the sixties,\\nalthough they do resemble faintly the claw-like furrows\\nof the veteran.\\nThe lines of age are caused by flaccidity and weakness\\nof the muscles as well as by an attenuation and absorp-\\ntion of fat.\\nCollar lines betoken a rigidity of the muscles which\\nhave been constantly exerted and exercised in the involun^\\ntary effort to accommodate the neck to the fashionable\\nstyle of dressing.\\nI should be very glad, were I able, to suggest a remedy\\nfor these unfortunate and beauty-destroying creases in\\nfair throats, but 1 do not honestly think there is any\\nway of preventing the formation of such lines if the\\nsubject continue to wear the stiff, high collar for hours\\ndaily.\\nTo be sure, these blemishes are not in evidence except\\nwhen the wearer of the collar changes her style of dress-\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 14", "height": "4348", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0257.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "256 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ning and assumes a low-cut gown. Then she will certainly\\nbe at a disadvantage when compared to the girl who has\\nnever yielded to the fashion of encircling the throat with\\na bit of starched linen which holds it as though it were\\nin a vise.\\nOn the other hand, the high-collared girl has the satis-\\nfaction of knowing that she is the triggest, trimmest and\\ncrispest of up-to-date maids, every day of her life.\\nMany readers will like to know if massage would not\\ncounteract the effects of the stiff collar. Massage, with\\nthe rotary motion, accompanied by frequent ablutions in\\nhot water, will possibly have a slightly retarding effect,\\nbut I do not think that fifteen minutes of massage daily\\nwill do very much in the matter where the muscles\\nare stretched for eight or ten hours of each day con-\\ntinuously stretched so that they form the objectionable\\nlines.\\nMany women have written me also asking about the\\ndiscoloration of the skin which comes under the collar,\\nand which is unquestionably causfed by it. There are two\\nreasons for this discoloration. The close-fitting collar\\nkeeps the air from the throat, impeding ventilation, and\\nrestricting circulation somewhat. The result of this re-\\nstraint is soon noticeable in the change of texture and\\ncolor of the. skin, which becomes yellow and distinctly\\nthicker than the cuticle either above or below the collar\\nlines. Sometimes, but rarely, the skin will be affected by\\na certain starch which is used in some laundries, and\\nwhich is very detrimental in its results. The following\\nformula is an excellent one for removing the yellow", "height": "4388", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0258.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST 257\\nstains caused either by stricture of the linen or the\\nstarch\\nBichloride of mercury 12 grains.\\nDistilled witch hazel 2 ounces.\\nRose water 2 ounces.\\nApply with a small sponge to the yellow surface once a day.\\nIt must be recollected that bichloride of mercury is a\\ndangerous jpoiso7i, and while perfectly proper to use as an\\nexternal lotion, as here advised, should be kept out of\\nthe reach of children and ignorant persons.\\nPremature Double Chin\\nThe best treatment for the double chin, as well as for\\nthe premature lines caused by high neck dressing would\\nconsist of abolishing the stocks and collars that have\\ncaused the trouble, but I do not expect miracles.\\nThe neck movements here illustrated if practiced daily\\nfor ten or fifteen minutes will serve to undo in part the\\ninjury created by high collars.\\nIn practicing the movements illustrated, the subject\\nshould wear a loose gown entirely free at the throat, and\\nshould have fresh air.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0259.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "^IL13[I\\\\T\\noo o.*aoootfe\u00c2\u00ab9\\n.-.-0\\n9\u00c2\u00a9 \u00c2\u00bb-V\\nCHAPTER XXX\\nTHE PERFECT WOMAN\\nAll her perfections challenge soyereignty Henry IV.\\nET out your tape measures. If you are symmet-\\nrically formed you will find out by first ac-\\ncurately measuring your nose. The height of\\nyour head should be just four times the length\\nof your nose. This is a little rough on pugs\\nand turned-ups, but it is true art and if you are\\na Venus you will correspond to these rules. If\\nyou are not, you are fortunate in living at a time when\\ndefects of physique are remedied by natural and wholesome\\nmethods.\\nYour height should be eight times the length of your\\nhead, and you should divide up like this\\nHEIGHT\\n1 Head From crown of head to bottom of chin.\\nBottom of chin to top of gternum or breastbone.\\nHead\\n(258)", "height": "4384", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0260.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "THE HARMONIC POISE\\n(259)", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0261.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "DIAGRAM OF NORMAL FIGURE\\nTHE LEGS OF THE PERFECT WOMAN SHOULD MEET AT FOUR POINTS\\n(260)", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0262.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "THE PERFECT WOMAN 261\\nHead Top of sternum to bottom.\\n1 Head Bottom of sternum to just above the navel.\\n1 Head From just above navel to fork or beginning of lower\\nlimbs.\\n1 Head From fork to middle of thigh.\\n(Note) Middle finger reaches just to middle of thigh.\\n1 Head Middle of thigh to top of knee.\\nHead Top of knee to bottom of knee.\\n14 Heads Bottom of knee to small of ankle.\\nHead Small of ankle to sole of feet.\\nTotal 8 heads.\\n(Note) The American woman averages 7^ heads.\\nWIDTH\\nNeck head.\\nAcross chest to setting on of shoulders IJ heads.\\nAcross shoulders 1^ heads.\\n(Note) This forms an equilateral trian-\\ngle with the navel.\\nChest between arms 1^ heads.\\nWaist 1^ heads.\\nHips o 2 heads.\\nThigh j head.\\nHand head, e., size\\nof face.\\nTop of knee head.\\nBottom of knee head.\\nCalf 2^ noses.\\nSmall of ankle 1 nose or quarter of\\nhead.\\nA celebrated German writer has recently given the fol-\\nlowing requirements of the perfect woman. I reprint them\\nthat my readers may know in how many particulars they\\ncan conform to the laws laid down, and that perhaps they\\nmay see some way to develop more of these beauties\\nin their daughters.", "height": "4352", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0263.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "262\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nGood Points.\\nBad Points.\\nSlender, fine bones.\\nHeavy, thick bones.\\nRound limbs.\\nAngular limbs.\\nFull breasts.\\nFlat breasts.\\nBroad pelvis.\\nSmall pelvis.\\nLuxuriant, long hair.\\nThin, short hair.\\nSmooth lips.\\nA moustache.\\nThin, soft skin.\\nThick, hard skin.\\nRound skull.\\nAngular skull.\\nSmall face.\\nLarge face.\\nLarge, deep eye sockets-\\nSmall eye sockets.\\nHigh, small eyebrows.\\nLowering, bushy eyebrows.\\nNarrow hand with long index fin-\\nPlump wrist.\\nger.\\nBroad hand with long ring finger.\\nRounded shoulders.\\nBony shoulders.\\nStraight, small collar bone.\\nCurved, thick collar bone.\\nHollows over the loins.\\nEven over the loins.\\nRound, thick upper thigh.\\nThin, flat thigh.\\nRounded calf.\\nThin calf, and angular.\\nSlender ankle.\\nHeavy ankle.\\nThin foot with thin toes.\\nPlump, fat foot with broad toes.\\nSecond toe long, fifth toe short.\\nGreat toe longest, fifth toe pro-\\nlonged.\\nThese secondary characteristics dependent largely upon\\ndisease, clothing and food, are noteworthy:\\nDisproportion op Upper and Lower\\nSymmetry of Uppee and Lower Body.\\nBody.\\nNormal weight.\\nToo heavy or too light.\\nShining, elastic skin.\\nDull, hard skin.\\nEven muscular development.\\nPoor muscles.\\nSlender joints.\\nThick, swollen joints.\\nWell-formed upper lip.\\nProminent upper lip or too thick.\\nEven, regular teeth.\\nProjecting teeth.\\nSlender, straight nose.\\nBroad, pug, flat nose.\\nRound chin with dimple.\\nSharp, or double chin.\\nFlat, round stomach.\\nProtruding stomach.\\nArched back.\\nFlat back.\\nRounded elbows.\\nPointed elbows.\\nLong, slender hand.\\nShort, broad hand.\\nLong second finger.\\nLong fourth finger.\\nArched, long nails.\\nFlat, short nails.\\nSlender, long feet.\\nPlump, broad foot.\\nStraight great toe-\\nGreat toe turned inward.\\nLonger second toe.\\nLonger great toe.", "height": "4388", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0264.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "n\\nr- ,4\\n3\\nI\\n03\\nIT\\nUJ\\nZ\\nu.\\nUJ\\nn\\nC)\\n7\\nu.\\nIll\\nUJ\\nCO\\nI\\nh-\\nn\\nul\\nr\\ncr\\n3\\nto\\nCO\\nI\\nLll\\n2\\nH\\n1-\\n11.\\nCO\\n-J\\nI\\n1-\\nUJ\\na:\\nH\\n(O\\nin\\nI\\n1-", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0265.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "I-\\nI\\no\\nlU\\nI\\na\\nLU\\na:\\na\\nUJ\\nX\\no\\nH\\nul\\na.\\nI-\\no\\n1-\\nT\\nC3\\nen\\nn\\nUJ\\nX\\nUJ\\na.\\nX\\nUi\\n00\\na.\\no\\na:\\n0.", "height": "4364", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0266.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "THE PERFECT WOMAN 265\\nThis list is extremely interesting and valuable to any\\nwoman with an earnest desire to make the most of her-\\nself. True there may be a few particulars in which she\\nis past mending. Thick bones, an angular skull, and small\\neye sockets for instance are fixed factors in the problem\\nand will admit of little or no change. Yet there remain\\nso many important particulars such as the complexion,\\nfigure, hair, teeth, etc., in which we may improve ourselves\\nthat the points are worth insertion in the creed of the\\nprogressive woman for her own use and for the benefit\\nof some growing girl in whom she may be interested.\\nFew of us, indeed, can check off our charms, without a\\nbreak, down the entire list. On the other hand there is\\nno one of us who can not justly lay claim to a few of\\nthem some, to many. Even if we are not so well en-\\ndowed as could be desired, there is no reason for despair,\\nnot even for discouragement, for a woman may be remark-\\nably beautiful .and superlatively attractive without con-\\nforming in a marked degree to the German standard or\\nto any other. Women of pronounced loveliness may vary\\nwidely from a fixed standard and from each other, in\\nproof of which it is only necessary to inspect the series\\nof portraits here presented as National Types, also the\\nfamous beauties of the past and present who differ well-\\nnigh as widely as do the flowers of the field. From\\nHelen of Troy to the latest French beauty, Dortzal, they\\nare flowers all, in God s field. Yet even their mere phys-\\nical beauty, enticing as it is, will not permanently avail\\nin the absence of those better attributes of wholesome\\ncleanliness in life and morals without which the flower", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0267.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "266\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nfinally withers. Better indeed than beauty alone, is the\\npossession of a few of the foregoing technical requisites\\nsupplemented by cleanliness, neatness, fastidiousness, care\\nin matters of the toilet, combined with engaging manners\\nand gentleness of disposition. These charms will make\\nand keep a woman queen of her realm even though her\\nreign exceed that of Queen Victoria.", "height": "4380", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0268.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "3\\no\\nI\\nCO\\nCO\\nIT\\nUJ\\nC3\\nz\\nUL", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0269.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "2 I-\\nCO\\n1 E\\nuj\\nCQ\\n3\\nX\\n1-\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2:.,VA/ ^--i*\\nLU\\nX\\nH\\no\\nO u.\\na UJ\\nu\\n55 o", "height": "4356", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0270.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXI\\nTHE CORSET\\nThe glass of fashion and the mould of torm. Hamlet.\\n^HE cultivated waist. That is what they call the\\ntwenty-four inch waist in England when it is\\ncompressed so that it may be girdled by an\\neighteen-inch leather belt.\\nCultivated forsooth! They may require coax-\\ning in merry England, but we do not need\\nschooling in waist torture in this glad land.\\nWe want it understood that we take to squeezing our\\nwaists naturally. Ninety-nine girls out of one hundred,\\npass through the self-infliction, waist-squeezing period be-\\nfore they have reached one and twenty the age of re-\\nsponsibility.\\nMany of them continue to crowd and jam their in-\\nternal organs beyond the years allotted to ignorance and\\nyouth. Sometimes we have the pitiful spectacle of stout\\n(269)", "height": "4344", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0271.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "270 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nold ladies girded into the tightest kind of quarters\\naround the belt.\\nUsually it is the very young thing and the married\\nbelle who affect the wasplike dimensions that are so\\nunpleasant to contemplate, so excruciatingly painful to\\nendure.\\nThe artistic standards of beauty require that the waist\\nshould be twice the size of the throat. Therefore, if\\none s throat measure twelve and one-half inches one s\\nwaist ought to measure twenty-five.\\nThe Venus de Medici, supposed to be a perfect tj^pe\\nof feminine beauty, is only five feet two inches high.\\nShe has a waist of twenty-seven inches. The wasp waist\\nis not only unpleasant to look at, but it is account-\\nable for many of the ailments of women, which result\\nfor life in impaired digestion, circulation, and respira-\\ntion.\\nNo woman can have a good complexion where the\\nvital organs are packed away inside a corset four or five\\ninches too small for her.\\nThe woman who laces herself into the shape of an\\nhour-glass presumably does so because she considers it\\nenhances her beauty. Goodness knows why she considers\\nit fascinating to resemble an insect of the wasp species,\\nbut obviously she does.\\nI read somewhere that the tightly-laced woman always\\nimagines herself peculiarly sylphlike and graceful. Well,\\nwhy All we know about sylphs is obtained from read-\\ning about them, and from gazing at their alleged por-\\ntraits. I presume to say that I have seen all the noted", "height": "4384", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0272.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "THE CORSET 271\\npictures of the entire collection of sylphs. Certainly I\\nhave gazed at ladies of a very early vintage who were\\nlisted under the alluring guise of nymph, sylph, siren,\\ngoddess or Venus, and warranted the genuine article. But\\nI cannot recall one no, not even one sylph, not a single\\nVenus, nor even a second-rate goddess, with an eighteen-\\ninch belt measure.\\nSo it is manifestly absurd to compare the cultivated\\nwaist of our English cousins, which we have not copied,\\nbut taken to without aid or instruction from our elders\\nacross the sea, with the waist of poetry or canvas.\\nI think, however, that the men are to blame for the\\nrevival of the wasp waist. For there is a revival in ac-\\ntive effect this moment. The new figure came into fash-\\nion about a year ago. The corset that produced this\\nso-called new form of womanhood claimed to be so con-\\nstructed that the wearer could reduce the size of the\\nwaist from three to six inches.\\nWell, I am acquainted with men who should have\\nknown better, and who rave about the new figure. One\\nmale of my acquaintance told me recently that a certain\\nwoman who immediately adopted the corset warranted to\\ncompress your figure, has a perfect figure, and then he\\ndescribed it\\nSuch an exquisite figure, he said. She has a waist\\nyou can span with your hands and magnificent shoulders,\\nbroad enough for a man. Five minutes later he was\\ndeclaring that women nowadays were a broken-down\\nlot of nervous, hysterical creatures who should be forced\\nto go into hospitals and rest cures so as to relieve the", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0273.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "272 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nwell members of society in general from the strain of\\nsympathizing with, and caring for them.\\nI was tempted to ask why this all-wise person did not\\nreflect a little on the law of cause and effect.\\nThe truth is, that a slender, trim waist is pretty, and\\nthat a squeezed waist is not. Now, there are ways of at-\\ntaining a slender waist healthful, wholesome ways. Such\\na waist will, to use the slang of the period, be the real\\nthing, while the squeezed waist will always be a deformity.\\nNothing sooner destroys a woman s freshness and the\\nflesh-and-blood beauty of womanhood, than diseased and\\ndisordered nerves. There never was an agent conceived\\nso diabolical in its effects upon the nervous system, as\\nthe corset that ingeniously deprives a woman of the\\nproper functioning of every vital organ of her body.\\nI am no advocate of so-called dress reform, which is\\nusually merely the fad of a man or woman who has be-\\ncome a crank over some supposed discovery of rational\\ndress.\\nThere has been a great deal of nonsense, written and\\nspoken, for and against the corset. This being a free\\ncountry, there is no reason why women who prefer to go\\nabout without stays, whether from physical reasons or\\nmoral convictions in the matter, should not be allowed\\nto follow their own sweet inclinations.\\nPersonally, I consider a well-fitting, properly constructed\\ncorset a blessing. I have experimented with substitutes,\\nclaiming to be aesthetic, hygienic, and elevating morally,\\nand I have suffered, been made hideous to look upon, and\\ncertainly have not been improved in temper as a result.", "height": "4364", "width": "2888", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0274.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "(273)", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0275.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "o\\nI\\no g\\nu.\\nUJ\\nQ Hi\\nz z\\nHi ul\\nq:\\no\\nu.\\nIXl\\nCO\\nQC\\no\\no\\na\\nt\\n5 H.\\n9", "height": "4384", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0276.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "THE CORSET 275\\nThere are, of course, some slight, willowy women who\\ncan do without the support of a corset. They are the\\nvery, very rare exceptions.\\nTake for example Mrs. Leslie Carter as one of them.\\nMrs. Carter wears a little girdle about her waist, which is\\nall she requires, her figure being naturally slender, and\\nthe physical culture which she has received in her years\\nof hard training has given her extraordinary litheness and\\npoise.\\nBut the average woman has neither Mrs. Carter s figure\\nnor has she had the benefit of long, persistent and har-\\nmonious physical training.\\nThis everyday woman requires a corset.\\nTo show what corsets will do for a woman s figure, I\\ninduced a lady not long ago who was, by the by, wearing\\na most hideous corset herself, to have photographs taken\\nwith the object in view of demonstrating the effect of the\\ncorset as a factor in a woman s appearance.\\nWhen my friend had the photograph taken (which is\\nreproduced here and marked No. 1) she wore the corset\\nof her own selection. Every woman who sees this picture\\nwill recognize the figure as one she knows very well.\\nNo. 2 shows the same lady with a proper and well-\\nfitting corset. This corset, I may add, is not heavily\\nboned, but it is cut so that the ugly curve at the waist\\nis entirely suppressed, and the objectionable embonpoint,\\ncaused by the wretched form of the old corset, has disap-\\npeared.\\nNo. 3 is a photograph of another subject in a French\\ncorset, which is intended to give a slimness to the figure.", "height": "4364", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0277.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "276 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nI do not think this corset adapted for any but very slight\\nwomen, and I did not suggest it for my friend. The\\nlength upon the hips would not be comfortable for a\\nwoman of her size.\\nI believe in a simple corset not the corset coffin. The\\nnovel, boneless, ribbon corsets of Yvette Guilbert are all\\nthat are necessary to support the busts of slender women,\\nyoung or old. Even stouter women look better in an\\neasy-fitting corset that does not press the adipose tissue\\nbelow or above its confines.\\nThe great mistake American women make is in buying\\ncorsets without trying them on and securing a proper fit.\\nNo French woman ever thinks of purchasing a corset\\nfrom the counter. She tries her corset on, and she is\\nnever satisfied until she secures a stay that is not only\\ncomfortable, both for sitting and standing, but one that\\ngives her figure graceful lines, while it allows her to\\nbreathe easily and to walk without the appearance of\\nbeing hampered in any way.\\nBe very certain, dear reader, that the hour-glass waist\\nor to use the descriptive term of the fashionable Lon-\\ndon modiste, the cultivated waist, which is at present\\nin vogue (to a limited extent only, I am glad to say), will\\nmean disease and loss of beauty to the foolish women\\nwho follow a fashion which makes a travesty of the hu-\\nman form. And recollect that unfortunately the harm\\ndone by tight lacing is often entailed upon a succeeding\\ngeneration.\\nWomen, not afflicted with obesity, who regard their\\nhealth are wearing corsets that are corsets in name only.", "height": "4392", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0278.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "THE CORSET\\n271\\nIn reality they are only satin or taffeta girdles, boned;\\nand laced in the back and over the hips. They come\\nin black and white, and all the new shades of pink and\\nyellow.\\nIn one of these girdles a slim figure appears to ad-\\nvantage, but woe betide the buxom matron who attempts\\nthem.", "height": "4364", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0279.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "XJjLJ 4 ^CllBEE^T 9\\nCHAPTER XXXII\\nTHE HAND\\nHer hand\\nIn -whose comparison all whites are ink,\\nTroilus and Cressida.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2^HE artistic hand with its delicate, tapering fin-\\ngers is like the poet born not made, and\\nevery woman may not hope for this ideal\\nsecond face as the hand has been cleverly\\ncalled, but there are no hands pertaining to\\nwomankind really barred from a greater or\\nless degree of beauty. Care and scrupulous\\ncleanliness are soon repaid in the toilet of the hands.\\nEven the housewife who must perforce on occasion do\\nrough, manual work, is included in this statement. It is\\nmore or less true that it takes five generations to form\\nan absolutely partician hand, but I do not agree with\\neven so great a master as Balzac that persons of supe-\\nrior intellect always have beautifully formed hands.\\nThere is a beauty of the Sun and another beauty of the\\n(278)", "height": "4384", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0280.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 279\\nMoon, I have seen intellectual men and women who\\nhad not beautiful hands, and empty-headed ladies and\\ngentlemen who had. To all my readers who may be so\\nfortunate as to have little children growing up about\\nthem, I beg to say a word as to the importance of the\\nearly and great care the little hands require. (See Chap-\\nter XLII.) Children form habits most destructive to the\\nbeauty of both hands and feet unless corrected. I have\\nnever been able to understand why we do not teach our\\nchildren to be ambidextrous instead of early inculcating\\nin them the practice which renders the left hand, com-\\npared to the right one, an almost useless member. Doubt-\\nless a few generations ahead of us will appreciate the\\nadvantages of ambidextrousness, and it will then be the\\noccasional person who will excite comment by being\\nright-handed.\\nFrom birth, the tiny fingers should receive careful\\nattention and the little nails should be cut in an oval\\nform which will aid developing tapering points. It is\\nruinous to permit children to bite the nails the best\\nremedy is to rub a little extract of quassia on the finger\\ntips each time the hands are washed. The bitter taste\\nis very unpleasant, but harmless, and the habit is soon\\nbroken, if the treatment be persistent. Many grown\\nwomen, as well as children, are really afflicted with rough\\nhands. Often this condition is produced from carelessness;\\nsometimes however, the skin is extremely susceptible. In\\nwashing the hands, use a pure soap containing no free\\nalkali^ and always rinse all the soap carefully and thor-\\noughly away. If soap be irritating, as it sometimes is, no\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 15", "height": "4352", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0281.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "280 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nmatter how delicate or pure, try the following paste\\ncalled by the French Amandine. It will be found deli-\\ncious and very healing.\\nAMANDINE\\nPut in a large marble mortar two ounces of gum arable, and six\\nounces of white honey; triturate, and when the mixture has been rubbed\\ninto a thick paste, add three ounces of perfectly neutral almond shav-\\ning cream. Then continue the trituration until the mixture has be-\\ncome homogeneous. Two pounds of fresh, cold, pressed, sweet almond\\noil are next allowed to flow from a can above it into the mass; other-\\nwise, if it enter in too large quantities, the blending is imperfect,\\nand the amandine becomes oily instead of jelly-like and transparent,\\nas it should be when the manipulation has been skillful. The per-\\nfume consists of one -half drachm of attar of bitter almonds to every\\npound of paste. A little attar of roses may also be added. As soon\\nas finished, it must be put into earthen jars and closely sealed.\\nThis is a delightful compound, but it is a little difficult\\nto make without laboratory appliances. Unless you wish\\nit for continuous use, it will be better to purchase it. Take\\ncare not to buy the dark-colored so-called Amandine. It\\nshould be a pure, creamy-white paste.\\nAlmond meal has been in use for the toilet by French\\nwomen for years. It came into vogue about a decade\\nsince in America, and is easily made at home. Proceed as\\nfollows\\nALMOND MEAL\\nAlmond powder 1 pound.\\nCuttlefish bone (powdered 5 ounces.\\nCurd soap (air-dried, powdered) 2^ ounces.\\nWhite castile soap, (air-dried, powdered) 2^ ounces.\\nOrris root (in fine powder) 1^ ounces.\\nMix and pass the whole through a fine sieve.", "height": "4388", "width": "2896", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0282.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 281\\nAnother excellent compound for whitening and soften-\\ning the hands is called Honey Paste. This requires no\\nskill to make, and is delicate and efficacious\\nHONEY PASTE\\nRub together one pound honej and the yolks of eight eggs; then\\ngradually add sweet almond oil, 1 pound, during constant trituration,\\nand work in bitter almonds, blanched and ground to meal, 8 ounces;\\nfinally perfume with attars of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.\\nChapped hands are common to persons with poorly cir-\\nculating blood, or to women who are obliged to frequently\\nimmerse their hands in either cold or hot water. Many\\nsuffer intensely from chapped hands during the summer\\nmonths as well as in cold weather. In such cases, do not\\nexpose the hands to sharp winds nor to out-of-door cold\\nwithout gloves. I do not approve of wearing gloves in-\\ndoors unless the hands are so badly chapped as to almost\\nbleed; then anoint them with cold cream and cover them\\nwith gloves three sizes too large. It is a serious mistake\\nto wear tight gloves on any occasion, but for chapped or\\nrough hands, the gloves should be as loose as possible.\\nAnything that impedes the circulation of the blood in the\\nslightest is detrimental to the texture of the skin. It is\\nnot always agreeable to use cold cream. The lotion here\\ngiven is a good substitute\\nLOTION FOR CHAPPED OR ROUGH HANDS (VIGIER)\\nRose water 100 grammes.\\nGlycerine 20 grammes.\\nTannin 50 centigrammes.\\nMix thoroughly. Moisten the hands with a few drops when re-\\nquired. This formula is also excellent for chapped lips.", "height": "4360", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0283.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "282 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nOccasionally some disturbance of the blood will pro-\\nduce an intense itching of the hands. It may be at once\\nallayed by the following wash highly recommended by\\nMonin:\\nWASH FOR ITCHING OF THE HANDS\\nMilk of almonds 500 grammes.\\nHydrate of chloral 4 grammes.\\nTincture of poppies 5 grammes.\\nApply a few drops to the parts affected.\\nTwenty-five years ago, there were I think, but two pro-\\nfessional manicures in this country, though in Europe the\\nluxurious classes commonly employed them, and the Pari-\\nsienne has always devoted much time and care to the\\nbeauty of her finger tips. About ten years ago, I took a\\ncourse of manicure lessons in Paris from the niece of the\\noriginal manicure, Sitts. This lady is now upward of\\nseventy years of age, for she has been an artiste of the\\nhand, to use her own words, for nearly half a century.\\nEven in those days she was not over youthful, but she\\nwas coquettish to the last degree, and used to quite over-\\npower me during my lessons, not only by her toilettes,\\nwhich were extremely girlish, but by her easy and airy\\nstyle of conversation. For example, she would always\\nspeak of H. R. H., the Prince of Wales, as Ce cJier Pritice^^\\nwhen I treat his nails I say to myself here at least is\\na hand worthy of a Sitts or Madame must pardon me\\nif I cannot give her a seance to-morrow. His Grace the\\nDue of- attends a garden party at three. I shall be\\nblamed indeed if his hands are not a credit to the house\\nof Sitts. I used to return from my lesson feeling that I", "height": "4392", "width": "2892", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0284.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 283\\nhad almost associated with royalty. In spite, however, of\\nthis element of the ridiculous, and also of the dear old\\nlady s extreme snobbishness, I learned a great deal from\\nher of the care of the finger nails, and I unlearned the\\ngreater part of the art of manicuring which I had acquired\\nin America, and which in many may be better termed the\\nart of ruining the finger nails and fingers.\\nManicuring was originated and developed by Monsieur\\nSitts, my old lady s uncle, who was King Louis Phillipe s\\npedicure. In taking care of the royal feet, M. Sitts\\nshowed such skill that his Majesty one day asked him to\\nremove an agnail from one of his fingers. Sitts performed\\nthis operation so cleverly that the royal client thereafter\\nemployed him, and the title Manicure was added to\\nPedicure. Manicure means, as doubtless all my readers\\nknow, care of the hands pedicure, care of the feet. The\\nSitts method does away with cuticle knife and mineral\\nacids for whitening the nails. It also substitutes an\\norange-wood stick sharpened for cleaning the nails instead\\nof curved scissors, and a bit of chamois skin does duty for\\npolishing, and is substituted for the buffer used in this\\ncountry. The manicure set of the most fashionable and\\nfastidious French woman therefore consists of\\n2 clippers, one for cutting the nails of each hand.\\n1 small parcel of orange-wood sticks.\\n1 square of chamois skin.\\n1 box of rose-colored ointment.\\n1 box of nail powder.\\n1 velvet file.\\nThis reduces the cost of manicure implements very\\nmuch, and the most beautiful results are certainly obtained", "height": "4356", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0285.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "284 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nby the Sitts method. It is the common and pernicious\\npractice in America to cut the selvage skin which borders\\nthe nail inside, and which is intended to protect it. The\\nSitts method totally condemns the use of steel either\\nunder the nail or around the lisiere (selvage). Mme. Sitts\\nvery logically says the smoothest of so-called nail cleaners\\nmade in steel is sharp enough to roughen the delicate\\nunder-surface. It then attracts the dust and foreign mat-\\nter because of this roughness, and more cleaning only\\nmakes it worse. Then acid is resorted to, and the texture\\nof the nails is ruined. A properly pointed stick of orange\\nwood, such as the dentists use for cleaning the teeth, is\\nthe only nail cleaner necessary. It removes dust and un-\\ncleanliness, and does not scratch nor injure the enamel of\\nthe nail which is just as delicate as that of the teeth.\\nMme. Sitts also declares emphatically that the border or\\nselvage around the nail is intended to protect it, and that\\nin cutting it you make it ragged just as you would if you\\njagged the selvage of a bit of cloth. And, she adds, it\\nwould be just as sensible to cut the border of your eye-\\nlids or your ears with the idea of making them even and\\nsmooth as the nails. Besides, the very touch of a steel\\ninstrument on the enamel surface is bound to scratch the\\nnail and cause blemishes. I recollect with great clearness\\nthe way manicures have clipped and scraped and hacked\\nmy fingers in other days often until they bled. Let this\\ncounsel, which comes from the fountain head of manicure\\nart, be a word to the wise.\\nThe nails require the nail brush and soap at least once\\ndaily, and after washing the hands, while they are still", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0286.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "SHAPE THE NAILS WITH A VELVET FILE\\nUSE CLIPPERS INSTEAD OF CURVED SCISSORS\\n(285)", "height": "4344", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0287.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "SHOWING USE OF THE ORANGE-WOOD STICK IN MANICURING\\n(286)\\nPOLISHING WITH THE BUFFER", "height": "4384", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0288.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 287\\nsoft from the action of the water, it is well to gently\\npress the cuticle around the nail back toward the finger\\nbase. If this be done with care daily, the nail will assume\\na graceful, oval form, ending in the white crescent which\\nis considered such a mark of beauty.\\nThis is one of the small personal duties which must\\nbe attended to religiously, for if neglected only a day or\\ntwo, the skin will attach itself to the nail, and then it is\\napt to crack or break, leaving the edge as sore and un-\\nsightly as though a fashionable manicure had treated\\nit, and treated it very badly, with sharp instruments. Use\\na little vinegar or lemon juice in place of other acids for\\nremoving discolorations. (See Chapter XXXI.)\\nExcessive moistness or perspiration of the hands with-\\nout apparent cause, is usually indicative of nervous debil-\\nity or some internal derangement. The following is a\\ngood local remedy\\nREMEDY FOR PROFUSE PERSPIRATION OF THE HANDS\\n(Edgerly)\\nCologne 90 grammes.\\nTincture of belladonna 15 grammes.\\nMix thoroughly moisten the hands two or three times daily with\\nthe mixture.\\nChilblains are a most painful affliction. They are\\ncaused either by a scrofulous condition of the blood, or\\nby sudden change of temperature from excessive cold to\\nextreme heat. When they have once formed they are\\nvery difficult to be rid of. Many persons afflicted with\\nchilblains suffer from them only in the winter time, but\\nweak and aged subjects are frequently troubled in sum-\\nmer also. The best treatment for chilblains is with local", "height": "4352", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0289.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "288 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nstimulants and counterirritants, among which the best are\\npainting the parts twice a day with iodine, or bathing\\nthe chilblains with diluted hydrochloric acid just strong\\nenough to slightly prick the skin. When the inflamed\\nparts ulcerate, an excellent dressing is made of cold cream\\n(formula already given) to which a few grains of tannic\\nacid have been added.\\nGlycerine jelly is an excellent preventive of chilblains\\nwhere the hands are very sensitive. It is made thus:\\nGLYCERINE JELLY\\nPure glycerine 4 ounces.\\nEnough gum tragacanth to thicken.\\nAttar of roses 8 drops.\\nDissolve the gum in enough water to make a thick liquid. Stir\\ninto the glycerine.\\nStrawberry cream is a delicate emollient for tender hands.\\nIndigestion will make the hands red. If you take good\\ncare of them and have no trouble with the digestive or-\\ngans, you will find wearing gloves two or three sizes too\\nlarge for you, spread with a paste made as follows, will\\nmake the hands white again\\nOil of sweet almonds 2 teaspoonfuls.\\nGlycerine 1 teaspoonful.\\nRice flower 1 teaspoonful.\\nRose water 1 ounce.\\nTincture of benzoin .30 drops.\\nYolks of two fresh eggs.\\nPour the oil of sweet almonds .over the rice flower and stir;\\nthen add the yolks of eggs and glycerine; last of all, the rose\\nwater and benzoin. Rip the gloves open and spread the inside\\nwith this paste; then sew them up again. Wash your hands thor-\\noughly at night before putting on the gloves, which you should wear\\nuntil morning,", "height": "4384", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0290.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "mm\\nCHAPTER XXXIII\\nTHE HAND Concluded\\nI take thy hand, this hand,\\nAs soft as dove s down, and as white as it.\\nWinter s Tale.\\nT IS not difficult to have soft, pretty hands.\\nThe great point is to keep them scrupulously\\nclean and to pay attention to the nails, which re-\\nquire daily care, although they rarely receive it\\nis^^ except by women of extreme leisure.\\nWhen the hands are rough a skin-feeding oint-\\nment is required. One of the best for this purpose\\nIS camphor cream, made as follows\\nSpermaceti 2 ounces.\\nWhite wax 2 ounces.\\nSweet almond oil 2 ounces.\\nMelt the three ingredients together over a gentle fire and add one\\nounce of gum camphor in shavings. Take off fire when camphor is dis-\\nsolved. Stir until the mass concretes. Put into jars. Use at night\\nfreely, anointing the hands, which should first be thoroughly scrubbed\\nvith warm water and a pure soap.\\n(289)", "height": "4364", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0291.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "290 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe old-fashioned almond paste which our grandmoth-\\ners used for their dainty hands is excellent. Here is the\\nformula\\nWhite wax 1 ounce.\\nOil of sweet almonds 2 ounces.\\nAttar of roses few drops.\\nMelt the oil and wax together, add the perfume while the mixture\\nis cooling, beating it meanwhile.\\nHoney and almond paste, to be worn at night under\\ngloves much too large, is a remedy for red hands famous a\\ncentury ago. It is easily made, but should not be com-\\npounded in large quantities, as the eggs do not keep.\\nHONEY AND ALMOND PASTE\\nAlmond meal 4 ounces.\\nOil of sweet almonds 8 ounces.\\nPure honey (strained) 8 ounces.\\nYolk of egg ounce.\\nMelt the honey separately, pour the almond meal into it and knead\\nit together with the beaten yolk of egg. Add the oil and knead again\\nuntil a paste is produced.\\nThis is a wonderful remedy for harsh hands.\\nHorse-chestnut meal paste is a favorite remedy for\\nrough hands in Continental Europe.\\nIt is prepared like the almond paste, substituting horse-\\nchestnut meal for almond meal.\\nA good lotion for whitening the hands is made as fol-\\nlows\\nPulverized borax 3 drachms.\\nGlycerine ounce.\\nElder flower water 12 ounces.\\nMix and apply several times a day if necessary.", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0292.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 291\\nWhen the hands appear to be constitutionally rough it\\nis a good plan to wash them always in bran or oatmeal\\nwater. This water is made very easily.\\nTake some fresh bran or good sweet oatmeal and boil it in water\\nenough to make it a very thin gruel. Strain and use the liquid, a little\\nmore diluted, instead of fresh water whenever the hands are washed.\\nThese washes must be made fresh every second or third\\nday, as they quickly turn sour.\\nUse a portion of fresh cut lemon to remove stains from\\nthe nails or fingers.\\nA bit of pumice soap will take away callous spots.\\nCocoa cream cerate, which is sold at some shops at a\\nvery high price, is made thus:\\nTake of cocoa butter, oil of sweet almonds, and white wax, equal\\nparts melt them together and stir until cool.\\nTO WHITEN THE HANDS\\nLanolin 100 grammes.\\nParaffin (liquid) 25 grammes.\\nExtract of vanilla. 10 drops.\\nOil of roses 1 drop.\\nMix and apply when necessary.\\nIt is well to recollect that stricture in any part of the\\nbody will frequently produce red hands.\\nFor example, tightly-laced corsets, a bodice too tight\\nin the armholes, sleeves that bind either above or below\\nthe elbow.\\nEven tight garters or tight shoes may produce red\\nhands.", "height": "4340", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0293.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "292 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIn all but very exceptional cases, say one out of per-\\nhaps ten thousand, a woman s hands are easily kept white\\nand pretty.\\nTo keep them white, frequent and thorough washing\\nis necessary, using a scrubbing brush and a good soap,\\ntaking care to rinse the soap well out of the skin before\\ndrying the hands.\\nTo keep them soft almost any one of the formulas\\ngiven above will suffice if used intelligently and persist-\\nently.\\nHow TO BE Your Own Manicure\\nTo take perfect care of the hands one requires a very\\nfew simple implements and five minutes time six days in\\nthe week. A nail clipper should be used in the place of\\nthe curved scissors. The clippers never create agnails,\\ncommonly called hangnails.\\nNever use a sharp instrument under the nails. An\\norange-wood stick carefully whittled to a smooth flat point\\nshould be used instead of a metal nail cleaner.\\nAbjure the cuticle knife. It simply bruises and hacks\\nthe selvage around the nail, which should never be cut.\\nUse a velvet file instead of one of the rougher kind.\\nAll liquid bleaches for whitening the nails are merely\\na diluted mineral acid of some powerful nature. They in-\\nevitably thicken the nail, and render it opaque instead of\\ntransparent.\\nKeep a bit of pumice stone on hand for removing\\nroughness and ink spots.", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0294.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 293\\nAfter washing the hands, press the skin or selvage\\naround the nail gently away from it, particularly at the\\nbase, so that the moon will show.\\nThe moons are really indications of physical strength,\\nand are never seen on the fingers of the sick.\\nThe little white flecks on the nails indicate disturbed\\ncirculation or injury from the cuticle knife; no external\\napplication will cure them.\\nOnce a week is often enough for manicuring, which one\\nmay easily do for one s self. Operate upon one hand at a\\ntime as follows\\nCover the tips of the fingers with amandine; soak the\\nhand for at least fifteen minutes in a bowl of warm\\nwater into which a little soap in powder has been cast.\\nDry the fingers carefully, pressing the selvage down all\\naround. Use the clippers to cut with. A little prac-\\ntice and you will secure a perfect pointed oval in\\nform, and each nail will be the same length and con-\\ntour.\\nRemove all foreign matter from under the nail with\\nan orange-wood stick. If there be stains or discolorations,\\ntake them off with the inside of a lemon. Apply a very\\nlittle rose paste to the surface of the nail next dust them\\nrather thickly with the nail powder, and polish with a bit\\nof chamois skin or a nail buffer. Rub always across, never\\nup and down.\\nRough, hard work will, of course, injure the appearance\\nof the hands unless they are cared for. Almond meal is\\nall that is necessary, in addition to the above advice, to\\nkeep them \u00c2\u00a7oft^ white and pretty.", "height": "4356", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0295.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "294 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhere there is undue moisture of the palms try the\\nfollowing lotion\\nCologne water 70 grammes.\\nTincture of belladonna 15 grammes.\\nAmandine may be made at home, but it is very diflS-\\ncult to prepare. It is cheaper in the end to purchase it\\nat one of the department shops.\\nMake nail powder as follows\\nSilicon 8 ounces.\\nOxide of zinc 2 ounces.\\nPulverized pumice ounce.\\nLake (00) enough to color pale rose.\\nMix in mortar and sift through fine sieve.\\nA fine rose paste for the nails is made thus:\\nSpermaceti 1^ ounces.\\nWhite wax 9 drachms.\\nOil of almonds 12 ounces.\\nAlkanet root 2 ounces.\\nAttar of roses 1 drachm.\\nMelt the first four ingredients in a hot water bath. Strain, beat\\nuntil nearly cold, then add attar of roses.\\nHints on the Hands\\nHands show the ravages of time more than any other\\npart of the body. Between the ages of seventeen and\\neighteen they attain the maturity and beauty of symnietry,\\nand if subjected to the most careful treatment will remain\\npractically unchanged until thirty. At thirty an almost im-\\nperceptible change begins and without constant attention\\ntheir beauty wanes. The skin begins to wrinkle and grows", "height": "4392", "width": "2860", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0296.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "THE HAND 295\\ndry, and the joints lose their shape. The shrinking of the\\nflesh displays the faults which the plumpness of youth had\\ncovered up.\\nNeglect will hasten the aging of the hands, and care\\nwill work wonders. It behooves every woman to take\\nspecial pains with them, as her hands are no small part\\nof her personality.\\nYoung women with red hands seldom realize that the\\ndifficulty usually is caused by tight lacing. Wearing the\\ncorsets too tight has a tendency to interfere with the\\ncirculation, and red hands are the result.\\nGreat care should be taken of the nails. A lady can\\nalways be told by the condition of the tips of her fingers.\\nThe nails must never be bitten, the cuticle must not be\\nragged and the rims must be white, not black. A very\\nlittle effort will keep the nails in good order.\\nIf the hands be rough rub them with a little cold\\ncream before retiring.\\nDon t wear tight gloves. They spoil the shape of the\\nhands, and give them a puffy, unpleasant appearance.\\nWomen are very careless about drying their hands.\\nThey give them a splash and a promise and then wonder\\nwhy they are rough. The hands should be very carefully\\ndried and a few drops of a good hand lotion rubbed in.\\nThey should not be exposed to the outside air for some\\ntime after they are washed. There is no better lotion\\nthan the following for everyday use\\nRose water 8 ounces.\\nPulverized borax 1 ounce.\\nGlycerine 1 ounce.\\nTincture benzoin 1 drachm.", "height": "4360", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0297.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "296 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhen the hands that come in contact with dirt and\\ngrease in the rough work of the household get what is\\ncalled grimed, the average soap will have very little effect\\nupon them. Before attempting to get these hands clean,\\nit is better to thoroughly rub a good spoonful of vaseline\\ninto them then wash in warm water, using a pure soap\\nand fairly stiff hand scrubbing brush. Rinse and dry care-\\nfully. If this is not successful, repeat the process.\\nA good hand whitener is made as follows:\\nSweet and bitter almonds, blanched\\nand pounded into a paste 250 grammes each.\\nLemon juice 60 grammes.\\nSweet milk 30 grammes.\\nSweet almond oil 90 grammes.\\nBrandy 180 grammes.\\nTO REMOVE WARTS\\nThe best way to have warts removed is by electricity.\\nYou can have them removed also by the use of an acid,\\nor by using this mixture:\\nChrysorobin 20 grains.\\nCollodion 1^ drachms.\\nApply with a camel s-hair pencil every day or two to the wart.\\nWhite specks are frequently created by the misuse of\\nthe cuticle knife in the hands of the manicure. But some-\\ntimes they are caused by an interception under the nails\\nof the particles of juice which nourish them.\\nA simple remedy of equal parts of Burgundy pitch and\\nmyrrh, melted and applied to the nail at night will fre-\\nquently cure the spots.", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0298.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "THE HAND\\n297\\nWearing a pair of rubber gloves at night will result in\\ngreat improvement to your hands. Where the hands have\\nbeen injured by housework it takes some little time to\\nget them into good condition again. Of course, you should\\nwash your hands with great care just before putting on\\nthe gloves.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 16", "height": "4356", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0299.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXIV\\nTHE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR\\nThere s language in her eye, her cheek, her lip,\\nNay, her foot speaks. Shakespeare.\\nHE Cinderella foot is passe de mode, and if we have\\ncause occasionally to regret a vagary or freak\\nof the new woman she deserves to be eter-\\nnally blessed for having made it the fashion\\nfor our feet to bear some harmonious propor-\\ntion to the frame they are to support, and to\\nhave made it no longer true, as cleverly stated\\nby a well-known author, that the length of a woman s\\nskirts is directly proportional to the size of her feet, and\\nthat women with large feet are always greatly shocked at\\nthe immodesty of those who have small pedal extremities\\nand are always trying to show them.\\nSmallness alone was, in my girlhood, the test of beauty\\nin feet, as I recollect it. I remember perfectly my mother s\\nlook of surprise and stern disapproval when I had to suc-\\ncumb to a number three shoe, and how we were brought\\n(298)", "height": "4380", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0300.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 299\\nup on a tradition that our maternal grandmother had such\\ntiny feet she always wore children s shoes in size, and had\\nher satin gaiters sewed on her little feet each day that not\\neven a silken lace might interfere with the lines of beauty\\nand symmetry.\\nBut in the emancipation of women, who are no longer\\ndolls or toys, but fine, vigorous, splendid creatures of su-\\nperb, physical development from tip to toe, feet of proper\\nsize to sustain a woman s weight are considered not only\\nmore attractive to the eye, but correct form.\\nUnfortunately very few women born before the wave\\nof good sense have sightly feet. Scarcely one woman in\\na thousand has a foot free from deformity or blemish of\\nsome kind.\\nFor generations back women insisted upon wearing\\nshoes too short or too narrow, and shoemakers were com-\\npelled to cater to their desires and furnish shoes built\\nalmost upon the Chinese plan for the deluded creatures\\nwho insisted upon having what they were pleased to con-\\nsider small feet.\\nIt is also really astonishing that we should have so\\nlong submitted to the tyranny of French heels and vise-\\nlike foot gear. 1 look at my number five, flat-heeled,\\nbroad-soled shoes, in which I walk many and many a mile\\nwithout fatigue, and think how foolish I once was, and\\nnot so foolish either, for in those days common-sense shoes\\nwere not to be had.\\nFortunately we know better nowadays, and our little\\ngirls are growing up with beautiful, undeformed feet but,\\nas I have said, so recently have we come to our senses", "height": "4352", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0301.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "300 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthat the woman past thirty with a perfect foot is almost\\nunknown.\\nOccasionally an actress is said to have a perfect foot,\\nand her fame is made thereby. Yet when Trilby was\\nplayed all over the country by different women, there was\\nnever a real Trilby foot that bore unscathed the telltale\\ntest of the photographer.\\nThe foot of the average woman should require at least\\na number five shoe. A large foot on a tiny woman is not\\nbeautiful, but on the other hand neither is a tiny little foot\\nartistically pretty or agreeable to gaze upon. It is harmony\\nthat makes be .uty, proper proportions that make harmony.\\nA woman s foot attains its normal size at about twenty-\\ntwo. Strange to say, the foot at sixteen or seventeen is\\nlarger than a few years later. Shoemakers all say that\\ngirls between sixteen and seventeen have feet that are not\\nyet shaped. They are fat and flabby. At about twenty\\nthe foot gets its proper shape, the flesh grows firmer, the\\nmuscles and tendons stronger and the bones become well\\nset. When the foot gets its settled shape a narrower shoe\\nis required, frequently two sizes narrower than could have\\nbeen worn at sixteen. At about forty a woman s feet go\\nback to the flabby state.\\nIt is true that small feet are considered by many a\\nmark of aristocracy, but they certainly do not indicate\\nsuperiority of intellect, for many brainy women of su-\\npreme intelligence have had very large feet. For example,\\nGeorge Eliot and Mme. de Stael, the most brilliant\\nwomen intellectually of their day, had such large and un-\\ngainly feet that they were made miserable by the con-", "height": "4380", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0302.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 301\\nsciousness of their undue proportions. Mme. de Stael once\\nventured to assume the role of a Greek statue in some\\ntableaux vivants, and was grievously offended by the witty\\nTalleyrand s hon mot that he recognized the impersonator\\nat once by the pied de Stael.\\nA long hand and foot are said to indicate mental su-\\nperiority and a capacity for a larger grasp and a greater\\ntenacity of purpose than smaller members. The proper\\nsize of a woman s foot varies from five and one-half to\\nnine inches that is, the foot that has been unrestricted\\nfrom infancy and permitted to grow as freely as the head,\\nwithout stricture of any kind. The fashionable Chinese foot\\nis about three and one-half inches in length, and I have\\nseen the feet of women in modern Europe which were re-\\nduced by tight squeezing to almost Chinese proportions.\\nA truly beautiful foot must first be free from all blem-\\nishes, and in perfect proportion to the leg and stature.\\nThe instep should be high, or moderately high, and the\\nportion under the instep hollow and well raised above the\\nlevel of the sole, the toes regular and well developed, the\\nheel narrow and nonprojecting the general outline of\\nthe perfect foot is long, slender and graceful. The toes of\\nthe beautiful foot, according to Flaxman, should follow\\neach other imperceptibly in a graceful curve from the first\\nto the fifth, and in the Greek foot, according to the most\\nfamous statues, the second toe was made longer than the\\ngreat toe. The beauty of the longer second toe is dis-\\nputed. The skin of the main part of the foot should be\\nof an almost marble whiteness, and the toes and heels\\nalone a rosy pink.", "height": "4348", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0303.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "ClLBEIfl\\n1^^-..V\\nCHAPTER XXXV\\nTHE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR Concluded\\nHer feet beneath her petticoats\\nLike little mice stole in and out.\\nSir John Suckling.\\n^HE present generation of girls should at least\\nhave feet free from all defects and blemishes,\\nif not perfect in shape, for all daughters of\\nsensible mothers have been shod for twenty\\nyears back v\\\\^ith flat, common-sense, heelless\\nshoes. No girl v^hose feet are thus attired\\never has been known to suffer from a corn,\\ndistorted nail, or even from a callous spot.\\nThe high French heel is accountable not only for the\\ndistortion of the first joint of the great toe, but for innu-\\nmerable feminine internal complaints besides which, it\\nis utterly impossible for any woman alive to walk or\\ndance gracefully in high French heels. It is said that a\\nfashionable French woman once asked a famous artist\\n(302)", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0304.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 303\\nhow to acquire a graceful carriage, and was told to take\\noff her high-heeled shoes, place them on top of her head,\\nand practice walking until she could do so without the\\nlittle shoes showing the slightest quiver of motion.\\nWhen you can walk, he said, with those shoes per-\\nfectly balanced, you will have the gait of a goddess, and\\nfor the first time since French heels were invented they\\nwill really have served to help and not to disfigure a\\nwoman.\\nDu Maurier s description of Trilby s foot has done\\neffective missionary work among us. I give it even\\nthough you all may have read it, for it is very pertinent\\nto this subject\\nPoor Trilby! The shape of those lovely, slender feet\\n(that were neither large nor small) facsimiled in dusty,\\npale, plaster of paris, survives on the shelves and walls\\nof many a studio throughout the world, and many a\\nsculptor yet unborn has yet to marvel at their strange\\nperfection in studious despair.\\nIt is a wondrous thing, the human foot like the\\nhuman hand, even more so perhaps but unlike the hand,\\nwith which we are so familiar, it is seldom a thing of\\nbeauty in leather boots or shoes.\\nSo that it is hidden away in disgrace, a thing to be\\nthrust out of sight and forgotten. It can sometimes\\nbe very ugly indeed the ugliest thing there is, even\\nin the fairest and highest and most gifted of her sex\\nand then it is of an ugliness to chill and kill romance\\nand scatter love s young dream^ and almost break th^\\nheart,", "height": "4352", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0305.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "304 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAnd all for the sake of a high heel and a ridiculously\\npointed toe mean thing at the best\\nNothing else that Mother Nature has to show, not\\neven the human face divine, has more subtle power to\\nsuggest high physical distinction, happy evolution, and su-\\npreme development the lordship of man over beast, the\\nlordship of man over man, the lordship of woman over\\nall!\\nThese are certainly not the feet of our grandmothers,\\nfor they\\nLike little mice stole in and out\\nAs if they feared the light.\\nThe gods be thanked for common-sense feet at last, and\\nfor a Du Maurier to make them fashionable.\\nFor those of us who have suffered a martyrdom for\\npast offenses in improper care of the feet, including the\\ntight, French-heeled boot of torture, a word as to the toilet\\nof the feet.\\nFirst, and most important of all, to preserve them in a\\nthoroughly healthy and comfortable state, thorough clean-\\nliness is of course requisite. They should be bathed daily,\\nand two or three times a week they should be soaked in\\nwarm or tepid water, and well scrubbed with a brush and\\nsoap, so that every particle of dust or perspiration which\\nconstantly accumulates about them may be removed. The\\nbest time for this operation is just before retiring. Once\\na week at least the feet should be carefully examined after\\nthe soaking above referred to every particle of loose skin\\nshould be removed while they are still soft from the warm\\nwater and callosities or indurations should be rubbed", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0306.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 305\\nquite smooth with a bit of pumice stone, or better still, a\\nJapanese corn file. The nails should also, about once a\\nweek, be carefully inspected, cut so that their length is\\njust the length of the toe. The shape of the nail should\\nfollow the natural curve of the toe. If they be allowed\\nto grow longer they are liable to be forced back by the\\npressure of the shoe and to grow into the flesh. Be care-\\nful also not to cut the nails of the toes too short, as in\\nsuch cases the toes lose their natural support. Cutting\\nthe nail to the quick has actually caused lockjaw and\\ndeath, an authentic case being on record of a lady who\\ndied of tetanus or lockjaw nine days after cutting the\\nnail by accident into the quick.\\nNails that have a tendency to grow sidewise should\\nbe kept carefully pared. Where the nail grows into the\\nflesh it may be cured by making a Y-shaped cut in the\\ncenter, the broad part of the Y at the top of the nail.\\nFor ingrowing nails Monin also advises bandaging the\\ntoe with compresses saturated with perchlorate of iron.\\nDespite the protest of many girls who are not yet con-\\nverted, ingrowing toe nails are invariably produced by\\npressure or a blow. A shoe too narrow across the toe\\nor tread of the foot, or insufficiently long for ease and\\ncomfort, though large enough elsewhere, either cramps or\\ndistorts the fore part of the foot and toes or arrests the\\nnails in their proper growth forward, forcing them back\\nupon the sensitive flesh at their roots and sides and caus-\\ning them to grow in width and thickness only.\\nThe results of tight shoes are not always immediate,\\nbut they are sure and very painful,", "height": "4348", "width": "2700", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0307.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "306 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCorns are horny indurations with a very sensitive\\nnucleus or base, and appear on the exposed portions of\\nthe joints of the toes. They are certainly caused by an\\nundue and continuous pressure, and will usually disappear\\nwith large, easy shoes otherwise, though frequently taken\\nout, they will reappear. To remove them, soak the feet\\nfor twenty minutes and pare the corns as close as possi-\\nble to the surface, taking care, however, never to make\\nthem bleed, then use one of the following remedies they\\nare all effective\\nCURE FOR CORNS\\nTake a lemon, cut off a small piece, then nick it so as to let\\nin the toe with the corn tie this on at night so that it cannot\\nmove, and in the morning you will find that, with a blunt knife,\\nyou may remove a considerable portion of the corn. Make two or\\nthree applications, and great relief will be the result.\\nThe pain occasioned by corns may be greatly allevi-\\nated by the following preparation:\\nInto an ounce vial put two drachms of muriatic acid and six\\ndrachms of rose water. With this mixture wet the corns night and\\nmorning for three days. Soak the feet every evening in warm water\\nwithout soap. Put one-third of the acid into the water, and the corn\\nwill soon be dissolved.\\nSOFT CORNS\\nSoft corns may be cured by using the following\\nDip a piece of linen rag in turpentine, and wrap around the\\ntoe, on which the corn is situated, night and morning, and in a\\nfew days the corn will disappear.\\nNitric acid, caustic, and strong tincture of iodine are\\nalso used for removing corns.", "height": "4384", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0308.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 307\\nCorn plasters may be procured of an apothecary or\\nmade at home by cutting a small circular bit of leather\\nor kid with a hole the size of the corn cut out in the\\ncenter. Spread the kid with a corn plaster. The French\\ncorn plaster called verdigris is made as follows\\nFRENCH CORN PLASTER\\nBeeswax, four parts Burgundy pitch, three parts malt, add Ven-\\nice turpentine (verdigris in fine powder), of each one part, and stir the\\nmass until nearly cold. This is the old form of verdigris plas-\\nter (emplastrum aeruginis) of the Paris Codex.\\nTENDER FEET\\nRubbing the soles of the feet with vinegar will ease\\nthem when they are sore from walking or standing.\\nThe disagreeable and peculiar odor arising from the\\nfeet of some persons is produced from an unnatural per-\\nspiration. In all such cases, the greatest possible cleanli-\\nness is of the utmost importance. Salt footbaths or\\nbaths of vinegar and water are frequently effective. Spir-\\nits of camphor may also be applied, and will sometimes\\ncure this very unfortunate condition. Mustard footbaths\\nare advised, the object being to stimulate the circulation\\nand evoke a natural excretion.\\nTender feet are caused by wearing stockings too thin\\nfor the weight of the shoe, and of course an ill-shaped\\nboot or shoe, or one not sufficiently porous to admit of\\nthe escape of perspiration will also cause tender feet.\\nIn this connection patent leather is to be condemned.\\nThe process of manufacture makes it impervious to air.\\nThe foot perspires and swells and the whole brood of foot", "height": "4356", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0309.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "308 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nills follows in due course. I have been asked frequently if\\npatent leather shoes should be worn and I have been\\nconstrained to answer that they should, not be worn but\\ndoubtless will be, for some time to come. They surely\\nlook dressy but hardly more so than light French calf or\\nkid if properly cared for.\\nThe best treatment for tender feet is soaking them\\nnightly in bran and water or salt water. Let them remain\\nin the footbath fully half an hour. Nothing so rests tired\\nfeet as the salt footbath.\\nColdness of the feet indicates delicate health, and im-\\npaired circulation. Cold feet are destroyers of complexions.\\nIt is said that rubbing the feet and ankles with the bare\\nhands, pressing just as strongly as the feet can endure,\\nfor ten or fifteen minutes every night just before retiring,\\nwill cure the most stubborn cases of cold feet.\\nFor profuse perspiration, try dusting the feet, which\\nshould be thoroughly washed and carefully dried at least\\ntwice a day, with the following powder\\nTalc 60 grammes.\\nSubnitrate of bismuth 45 grammes.\\nPermanganate of potash 13 grammes.\\nSalicylate of soda 2 grammes.\\nThis powder must be sifted through fine silk bolting cloth, so\\nthat it is impalpable.\\nBUNIONS\\nBunions are the result of an inflammation or swelling\\nof the previously enlarged or distorted joint of the great\\ntoe. A distorted joint is not a bunion until it has in-\\nflamed and suppurated. Short shoes and French heels are", "height": "4388", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0310.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 309\\nthe almost invariable cause of the distorted great toe\\njoint. The toe is actually dislocabed in its effort to adapt\\nitself to a shoe which will not yield in length. There are\\na number of mechanical appliances exploited for the cure\\nof distorted joints. I have never yet seen a cure effected.\\nThe toe joint may be set just as any dislocated bone\\nmay be put back in place, and if done immediately, and\\nthe patient will forever after wear long shoes and for-\\nswear French heels, it will remain in its proper place\\nhalf an hour s confinement, however, in a short shoe or\\nslipper, will dislocate the joint again.\\nWhen the bunion becomes very painful, with great\\ninflammation, and a manifest gathering of pus is forming,\\npoulticing should be resorted to. Nothing is so effective\\nas ground flaxseed for this purpose. Make a tiny num-\\nber of poultices in little linen bags; keep applying them\\njust as hot as they can be borne spread a little carbo-\\nlated vaseline over the bunion before putting the poultice\\non. If the pain be intense, add a few drops of laudanum\\nto the vaseline.\\nWhere the feet are cut or an abrasion occurs, they\\nshould be soaked and carefully washed, and further pro-\\ntected either by a little ointment secured with a scrap\\nof lint or a bit of court-plaster. When a blister has formed,\\nit is best to prick or snip it so as to let all the water or\\nserum out then bind it over carefully, first applying a\\nhealing ointment.\\nTo all women who can afford to do so, I advise the\\nweekly care of a good pedicure. The torture which only\\na corn can produce is easily averted if the feet be cared", "height": "4356", "width": "2708", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0311.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "310 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nfor, and bunions and other atrocities are unknown to\\nthose who early learn the way to treat those useful mem-\\nbers, the feet.\\nPointed-toed shoes have certainly deserved a portion of\\nthe anathemas hurled at them, but I make a feeble protest\\nfor them as proper enough for people with pointed feet.\\nA boot or shoe should certainly conform to the shape of\\nthe foot, and about eight people out of ten have feet\\nwhich are much more pointed than square at the toe.\\nI cannot see why the hideous square-toed shoe is not\\nquite as grotesque as the extreme pointed tip (called in\\nParis, cure-dent tooth-pick). There can be but one\\nopinion as to heels they should be low and broad.\\nNo department of dress, indeed, shows more wholesome\\nimprovement during the past decade than foot gear. Most\\nmen and many women appreciate the genuine comfort of\\nhaving the shoe made to conform somewhat to the shape\\nof the foot instead of compelling the latter delicate mem-\\nber to do the stretching and shaping at any cost. A\\nmaker of women s boots once said It s easy enough to\\nfit the feminine foot, but mighty hard sometimes to fit\\nthe feminine head. To-day, happily, it is easy to fit both,\\nfor broad, foot-form shoes for ordinary w^ear are just the\\nfashion. Whatever ridicule may be aimed at women for\\nfollowing masculine styles, it is certainly well for the feet\\nof the growing generation that mannish styles in foot\\ngear are the vogue among the gentler sex. The shoe a la\\n7node is broad in the right place, i. e., along a line running\\nbetween the main joints of the great and small toe.\\nPlenty of room here makes an easy shoe and relieves the", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0312.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR 311\\npressure on the ball of the foot, thus preventing an en-\\nlargement of the joint which is fatal to the beauty of the\\nj^ied de femme.\\nIt is suggested that a woman should always have\\nseveral pairs of shoes and boots and change them often,\\nthus allowing the leather to dry out and resume its nor-\\nmal condition.\\nThe use of shoe forms is also advised, to stretch out\\nthe wrinkles and creases. Shoes thus cared for wear\\nlonger and always look better.", "height": "4356", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0313.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "cij^m^\\nCHAPTER XXXVI\\nFOOT MASSAGE\\nFull of strange shapes, of habits and of forms. Love s Labour Lost,\\n^ROM childhood we impose upon our feet, making\\nthem conform to a shape in shoes decreed by\\nfashion and quite at variance with Nature s\\narrangement.\\nI find ninety-nine women out of a hundred\\nhave taken just such or kindred liberties with\\ntheir pedal extremities, and once the feet\\nhave been thus tampered with, they never quite recover.\\nMassage is a wonderful method for soothing the aches\\nof feet that have been improperly shod, as well as for the\\npain that comes from overexertion, long walking, or stand-\\ning.\\nTo give tired feet, restful, delightful massage the op-\\nerator need not be an expert masseuse.\\nThe process begins with an application of a quieting\\nlotion to the foot by the hand of the operator.\\n(312)", "height": "4380", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0314.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "TO MASSAGE THE SORE JOINT HOLD THE TOE IN PLACE BY SEPARATING THE GREAT AND\\nSECOND TOES\\nRUB ALWAYS FROM THE ANKLE TOWARD THE TOES\\n(313)", "height": "4332", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0315.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "TO RELIEVE BUNIONS AND SWOLLEN JOINTS\\nA BtT OF THICK FELT BETWEEN THE GREAT AND SECOND TOES WILL GREATLY RELIEVE THE DISTORTED JOINT\\n(314)", "height": "4348", "width": "2844", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0316.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "FOOT MASSAGE 315\\nArnica diluted with warm water will prove a simple\\nand soothing application.\\nAfter the lotion has dried rub the foot gently, using\\na good toilet cream or oil of sweet almonds. Always\\ndraw the blood from the ankle or instep to the toes.\\nSupport the instep or ball of the foot with the left hand\\nwhile rubbing with the right, using the downward move-\\nment on the outside of foot and ankle. A rotary motion\\non the instep is also very restful.\\nAll the nerves start from the feet, which should be\\ntreated the same as the head removing the shoes and\\nelevating the feet to a comfortable position not too high.\\nThe foot should never be massaged without using a\\nlittle oil or cream. For a tender foot which perspires too\\nfreely always use oil, alcohol and ammonia combined, one\\nounce of oil, two ounces of alcohol and one tablespoonful\\nof ammonia. For a burning foot use cream or oil. Iodine\\nshould never be used on the foot in its full strength.\\nAfter a corn has been cut, it should always be pro-\\ntected from the stocking (for an hour at least) by a piece\\nof adhesive plaster, or by applying some good cream and\\nwrapping a small piece of cotton around the toe.\\nTake extra care in fitting shoes. Pay no attention to\\nthe toes, but fit the heel and instep, thus bringing the\\npressure on the instep, where it should be, and not on the\\ntoes.\\nThere is no permanent cure for an enlarged joint or\\ncorn. They can only be relieved, and all magic cures\\nshould be avoided, as they eventually do more harm than\\ngood.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 17", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0317.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "316 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIngrowing nails can be cured by proper cutting and\\nprotecting the corners after the diseased part has been\\nremoved, which is essentially the work of a skilled chirop-\\nodist.\\nDistorted great toe joints are always caused by shoes\\ntoo short for the foot.\\nTo relieve the pain and throw the joint back into\\nplace put a bit of thick felt between the great and second\\ntoes.\\nTo massage the sore joint always hold the toe in\\nplace by separating the great and second toes. This of\\nitself will give relief. Never massage the great toe joint\\nby a pressure that will bend the great toe still further\\ntoward the second toe.\\nA soda footbath is as effective as any other treatment\\nfor burning feet. Take a handful of common washing\\nsoda and let it dissolve in a large foot tub two-thirds full\\nof tepid water. Soak the feet in this bath for twenty\\nminutes. Usually it will remove the burning sensation\\nand give great relief.\\nAbove all things avoid short shoes. They are the\\ncause of that obstinate and painful trouble called in-\\ngrowing toe nail. The best shoe is that which is long and\\nbroad, with the sole projecting as much as one-eighth of\\nan inch beyond the foot. Avoid extremely sharp-pointed\\nshoes. Happily they, are no longer in fashion, and the\\nwoman who has a square foot need not pinch her toes in\\norder to be correct.\\nFor tired and tender feet try bathing them in hot\\nwater into which a big handful of sea salt has been dis-", "height": "4364", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0318.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "USE THE ROTARY MOVEMENT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FOOT AND ANKLE\\nSUPPORT THE BALL OF THE FOOT WITH THE LEFT HAND, MAKE THE MOVEMENT ALWAYS\\nDOWNWARD WITH THE RIGHT (317)", "height": "4348", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0319.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "c\\nS\\nu.\\nO\\nI\\nOl\\no\\no\\nliJ\\no\\nliJ\\nX", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0320.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "FOOT MASSAGE 319\\nsolved. Let the feet remain in the water fifteen minutes.\\nDry and rub the soles with half of a lemon. The relief\\nis most grateful.\\nEither one of these two formulas will be found effec-\\ntive for excessive and odorous perspiration:\\nNo. 1. Oleate of zinc, ounce; powdered starch, 1 ounce; sali-\\ncylic acid, 1 scruple.\\nNo. 2. Beta-naphthol, drachm; distilled witch hazel, 4 ounces.\\nApply well to the skin.\\nThe following formulas represent good prescriptions for\\nthe treatment of corns and bunions\\nI\\nBorate of sodium 1 drachm.\\nExtract of cannabis 1 scruple.\\nCollodion 1 ounce.\\nPaint over the corn or bunion every day once or twice, and after\\nfive or six applications the superficial growth can be scraped off.\\nII\\nSalicylic acid 1 drachm.\\nCocaine 5 grains.\\nCollodion ounce.\\nPaint over the corn or bunion twice a day, and scrape away\\nthe superficial growth at the end of three or four days.\\nThe following recipe will be found good for the treat-\\nment of chilblains\\nCamphor 1 drachm.\\nBeta-naphthol 10 grains.\\nCocaine 5 grains.\\nDiachylon ointment 1 ounce.\\nAfter bathing the part in hot water, balsam of copaiba is painted\\nover the surface.", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0321.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXVII\\nLATE HOURS AND DISSIPATION\\nTo sing a requiem and such rest to her\\nAs to peace-parted souls. Hamlet.\\nhen one considers how many women there are\\nwhose happiness and comfort have been de-\\nstroyed through dissipated husbands, or be-\\ncause of the vagaries of an intemperate son,\\nit is almost a wonder that every one of the\\ngentler sex is not a total abstainer.\\nTime was when for a woman to drink\\nspirits, or even malt liquor was scandalous. This, how-\\never, was in the days of our national isolation when vis-\\nitors to our shores were few and foreign travel tedious\\nand expensive. Now the gay and vicious capitals of Eu-\\nrope are within speaking distance, and, if this were not so,\\nthere has for a long time been a constant influx from the\\ndrinking nations of the Old World. The German has\\ntaught us to be fond of our beer, which, indeed, might\\n(320)", "height": "4364", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0322.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "LATE HOURS AND DISSIPATION 321\\nnot be harmful to any great extent if used in the mod-\\nerate and rational way of the German himself. But the\\nAmerican disposition is not the Teutonic. One of our\\ncharacteristics is to endeavor to beat people at their\\nown game. It is so in commerce, agriculture, invention\\nand in beer drinking. The German is satisfied with his\\nsingle mug, which he drinks slowly. We go him one\\nbetter, guzzle two glasses, go about our business and come\\nback later for another to find our friend still musing over\\nhis single mug. The Frenchman, from the land of brandy,\\nchampagne and claret is generally satisfied with a pint\\nof the latter at his dinner. With us the claret is too\\noften the beginning, champagne follows, then brandy, and\\nthe next day absinth to pull us together. And not our\\nmen of fashion alone, that were bad enough, but many\\nwomen vie with the sterner sex in the convivial round\\nso-called respectable women, too, and those not respect-\\nable. The latter soon drop out of sight the former in\\nmany cases press into their places, and the dance of dis-\\nsipation goes on. Here are two instances from many\\nwhich have come under my personal observation. I cite\\nthem in this place mainly to show the effect of dissipation\\nupon beauty, health and morality.\\nThere is no dodging the fact that the youthful beauty\\nof the American girl in its original charm rarely outlives\\nthe third society season. A woman s face is the mirror\\nthat reflects her life, and the face of a typical New York\\ngirl-woman, for she whom I have in my mind can t at\\nthis writing be a day over two and twenty,\u00e2\u0080\u0094 is such a\\npronounced example of the results of three seasons of New", "height": "4356", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0323.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "322 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nYork fashionable life that I here analyze it and endeavor\\nto show just how the process has been accomplished.\\nMiss a charming young creature of eighteen, was\\nmarried in a fashionable New York church.\\nAfter a brief wedding journey the bridal couple re-\\nturned to New York. Then followed a first season in\\nfashionable high life. The little wife began the career of\\ndissipation with an evident distaste for all-night balls and\\nchampagne suppers, but, as usual, the pleasures and excite-\\nments of society triumphed over simplicity.\\nThe girl who once rose at seven, fresh as a bird and\\nsweet as a flower, now dragged herself wearily about her\\nboudoir and dressing room morning after morning. She\\nwas never, as she herself declared, fit to be seen before\\none o clock. When, braced up on strong coffee and wine\\nof cocoa, she descended to second breakfast at that hour,\\nand after a glass of wine and enough sustaining food to\\nnourish the proverbial canary, she began her day of social\\nduties and pleasures.\\nNight after night she insulted her strong young stom-\\nach by such a combination as would make an ostrich run\\nto cover. Terrapin, champagne salad, champagne ices,\\nchampagne pates, champagne and champagne as a run-\\nning accompaniment to all sweets, pastries everything\\nunder a Delmonico or Waldorf-Astoria moon, or that could\\nbe thought of or advised by a dyspepsia breeder in cook s\\nclothing, was thrust into this once good little stomach.\\nAt the end of the year the pretty child was a haggard\\nyoung thing, with the color almost gone out of her cheeks\\nand lips. Always so tired. At the end of three years I", "height": "4364", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0324.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "LATE HOURS AND DISSIPATION 323\\nbeg to point out to you at any one of your ultrafashion-\\nable functions, a young woman who takes her cock-\\ntails before she can even swallow her coffee, when she\\nis awaking from a narcotically induced sleep about\\nmidday; a young woman who smokes cigarettes almost\\nincessantly, and whose face is, at the end of three years,\\nsuch a startling record of the dissipations of smart life\\nthat the most callous heart is moved to pity in contem-\\nplating it.\\nWho shall say that he or she does not recognize the\\ntype Who will save her\\nThe second case is sadder still.\\nNot long ago I received a letter from a young woman\\nwhom I had known in other days, when she was a beau-\\ntiful girl, a belle of the most fashionable set in a not\\nvery distant city.\\nThe letter was w^ritten from a private hospital. The\\nwriter recalled herself to me, and begged me to come and\\nsee her. She had, she said, something of importance to\\nsay to me.\\nSo I went, and when I was ushered into the room\\noccupied by Mrs. Gordon, as I shall call her, I saw the\\nsaddest sight my eyes have rested upon for many and\\nmany a long day.\\nFanny, when I knew her some years ago, was a charm-\\ning young creature of eighteen. She was about that time\\nmarried to an immensely rich young man in a fashionable\\nchurch near by, and every one said that she had made the\\nmatch of the season. Certainly it was a great marriage\\nif position and money make greatness.", "height": "4356", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0325.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "324 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAlmost up to her wedding day my little friend had\\nlived a healthful, normal life of great simplicity. A wed-\\nding tour to Europe followed by a presentation to Her\\nMajesty, the Queen, and, according to the reports in the\\ncolumns devoted to the world of fashion, a new belle had\\ndaw^ned upon the social horizon.\\nLittle Mrs. G s beauty, her toilets, her jewels, the atten-\\ntion and admiration she attracted\u00e2\u0080\u0094 we heard it all over\\nhere. When the G s came home, the stamp of fashionable\\ndissipation was plainly seen upon her.\\nFor several years she reigned undisputed over a circle\\nof devoted adorers. Then there came a grave scandal, a\\nseparation, stories of recklessness more scandal, and, at\\nlast, a total disappearance from the world that formerly\\nknew her and easily forgot her.\\nCasually I heard that Fanny G. was living in England.\\nYears passed, and lately I sat by her bedside and watched\\nher pass away. She died from the excessive use of stimu-\\nlants and narcotics. She was a little over thirty years of\\nage, but she looked at least fifty.\\nThe day I went to see her in response to her request\\nshe said to me\\nYou see the price I have paid for my mistakes. I\\nam giving my life. Oh, I know it is only a question of a\\nlittle time; they cannot deceive me. I am paying with\\nmy life for the ignorance that was the first cause of all\\nmy misfortunes.\\nOf course, girls usually won t listen to the experience\\nof others. They have to learn from their own, but I want\\nyou to beg the pretty girls who are as foolish and inno-", "height": "4384", "width": "2812", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0326.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "LATE HOURS AND DISSIPATION 325\\ncent as I was, to remember that nothiDg will so soon de-\\nstroy their beauty as dissipation.\\nHere she smiled faintly -and said:\\nPerhaps you can scare them into being temperate.\\nTell them how soon every vestige of beauty goes from\\nthe woman who drinks or takes narcotics.\\nTell them that champagne suppers, tonics containing\\ncocaine, cocktails, and all the rest come first and destroy\\na woman s will power and make those dreadful drooping\\nlines about the mouth because the muscles are bound\\nto relax when they are loosed from the control of the\\nwill.\\nExplain to them that abnormal excitement drives\\nnormal sleep away. Then comes the most awful of all\\nthe demons that conspire to destroy a woman nar-\\ncotics.\\nLook at me See the horrible work of drugs I am\\njust thirty and my teeth have almost crumbled away. Mor-\\nphine injections have destroyed them. My beautiful hair,\\nyou see, is nearly gone. My face is old. The dreadful\\nlines tell their ov^n story dissipation and drugs.\\nWhen I first tasted wine, I did not like it, but it kept\\nme going, so I took it until little by little I learned to\\ndrink alcoholic mixtures. Very soon I found I could not\\nsleep, and a friend gave me a prescription for a sleeping\\ndraught, which seemed to work miracles. After I had taken\\nit for nearly a year, I found that one of the ingredients\\nwas a form of opium. By this time I was taking alco-\\nholic stimulants daily and the sleeping medicine at night.\\nJ tried^ but could not stop.", "height": "4360", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0327.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "326 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIt is impossible for a woman to be morally healthy\\nwhen she is never really in a normal state. So I lost my\\nhusband, my friends, everything and hope as well.\\nWe buried my poor little friend very quietly, very ten-\\nderly. She had paid the awful price of yielding to temp-\\ntations which to-day beset a woman, no matter what her\\nstation in life, as never before.\\nI give you her message, which forcibly impresses the\\nfact that excess is fatal to beauty and destructive of hap-\\npiness and morality as well. But in this connection I want\\nto say a cheering word spoken from an experience on two\\ncontinents extending over well-nigh a generation. It is this.\\nThe day of drinking men and drinking women, except\\namong this fast set I have described or among the very\\nlowest classes, is dying out. It is no longer the fashion\\nto drink, especially to excess. The demands of home-life\\namong women and the sharp competitive business struggle\\namong men, alike require clear brains and steady nerves.\\nWomen lose caste and men lose their jobs when once\\nfairly convicted of habitual excess. And this is as it should\\nbe. It is but the dispensation of a wise Providence.\\nAnd right here I wish to air the eternal grudge I bear\\nagainst tea or coffee drinking to excess. The young should\\nnever drink either. It retards their growth and makes\\nthem prematurely old. Unless used in^ moderation, even\\nby elders, we note strained or shattered nerves causing\\nchronic insomnia. The good doctors will order bromides;\\nthen come narcotics and ruin.", "height": "4392", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0328.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXVIII\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE\\nHealth must be there, or heauty cannot be.\\nHYSiCAL culture has, happily, passed the craze\\nstage, and has settled down to a sensible and\\nreasonable amount of daily exercise.\\nThinking women who know something of\\nanatomy and a little of physiology, are satis-\\nfied that nothing can take the place of the\\ndaily exercise which brings all the muscles of\\nthe body into play, expands the lungs, and sends the blood\\ntingling through the veins. These women know that by\\na certain amount of physical training they will never lose\\ntheir supple grace will never develop huge abdomens, and\\nhips, aijd will never join the army of distorted creatures,\\nwho suffer from the results of overeating and inertia,\\nknown as the woman with the middle-aged figure, the\\nwomen who, as poor Kate Field used to say, will insist\\n(327)", "height": "4352", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0329.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "328 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nupon sitting on the ends of their spines. There are a\\nnumber of excellent gymnasiums in every large city where\\nwomen may go, when they wish, to take exercise, but the\\naverage woman may perfectly well practice gymnastics in\\nher bedroom.\\nDeep Breathing\\nFirst of all should come proper breathing.\\nIt is somewhat remarkable that we should have been\\nbreathing day and night ever since we came into the\\nworld, and yet that very few of us know how to breathe\\nproperly. At least there are very few of us who make a\\ndaily practice of deep breathing not an occasional respi-\\nration longer than usual, but fifty or more of them taken\\nsystematically during the course of the day. It is said\\nthat nine-tenths of our colds can be cured in their in-\\ncipiency by deep breathing.\\nI have heard, indeed, of a health club which enjoins\\nupon members that each shall take at least one hundred\\ndeep breaths, ten at a time, during each day.\\nIt is hard, however, to think to do anything ten times\\nat regular intervals throughout our waking hours. It is\\ntoo much like taking medicine, or rather not taking it,\\nfor who has not placed a quota of powders in the pocket\\nor purse to doctor with while at business and found the\\nwhole lot intact on returning home at night But deep\\nbreathing is important enough to pay one to form the\\nhabit. If we take a daily walk for exercise solely, the\\ndeep breathing may become a natural accompaniment.\\nThose who exercise day or night in their rooms can throw", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0330.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4364", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0331.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0332.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 331\\nopen the window and take a dozen deep draughts as a\\npreliminary.\\nWe can all, every one of us, enjoy a few full respira-\\ntions, the more the better, when we are leaving home in\\nthe morning or returning at night. Let me give you my\\nlittle system which will soon develop into a habit. When\\nyou start out, take only one inhalation (always through\\nthe nose) to each four steps, and expel the air through the\\nmouth on the next four. Keep this up for a day or two\\nand you will find that five steps to a breath will come\\nquite as easy and after a while six or seven. When you\\ncan take eight steps at your ordinary gait while inflating\\nthe lungs only once and when you can empty them dur-\\ning the next eight steps, and keep it up for ten minutes,\\nyou will have a chest expansion which will stand you\\nwell in hand against any attack of lung trouble, and you\\nwill have acquired a habit of deep breathing, and erect-\\nness of figure which will be of value to you as long as\\nyou live.\\nThe ordinary half breath, such as we take when sleep-\\ning, or unconsciously, when awake, does not go to the bot-\\ntom of the lungs and enter all the little air cells whose\\nfunction it is to oxygenate the blood. As a consequence,\\nthe air in these unused cells is valueless and the blood\\nwhich comes for its oxygen goes away without it. This\\nleft-over, shopworn air needs to be replaced with fresh\\ngoods and the deep breath is the only thing that will do\\nit. It is said to require seven full inspirations to clear\\nthe lungs entirely of this residuum and fill all the cells\\nwith pure air. This done you will often feel a tingling", "height": "4344", "width": "2704", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0333.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "332 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nsensation as the blood courses through the veins, you will\\nbecome sensible that your clothing is too tight for you,\\nthat you are a much bigger individual than you thought\\nyou were and you become aware that you are looking up\\nand over peoples heads instead of down at their knees.\\nThe hermetically sealed house which you have lain in all\\nnight, or the stuffy office which has held you all day are\\nin turn forgotten. You face the wind like a fallow deer\\nand are at one with Nature.\\nA breath is a little thing, but a deep breath, if it be-\\ncome a habit, is a big thing well-nigh big enough to\\nmake the difference between a consumptive and an athlete.\\nCultivate the habit of deep breathing in the open air and\\nthen boudoir gymnastics, persistently followed, will pre-\\nvent you from growing stiff or stout, and will remedy\\nmany physical defects which are the results usually of\\nbad habits and inaction.\\nEven young girls inclined to stoop, and anaemic, may\\ntake exercises every morning which will prove of incal-\\nculable benefit to them. Simple appliances only are needed,\\nor, indeed, none at all. The boudoir exercises may include\\nthe use of the stick, dumb-bells and clubs. They may be\\nperfectly well taken in the nightdress. The windows\\nshould be thrown open, enough to admit the fresh air.\\nThe first exercise should be a breathing exercise. The\\nsubject stands perfectly erect, heels together, and arms ex-\\ntended straight in front, palms touching. The palms are\\nnow separated, the arms sweep backward. The exerciser\\nmeanwhile draws in a deep breath. Next the arms are\\nthrown as far backward as possible without inconvenience,", "height": "4384", "width": "2812", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0334.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "y*N.\\nUJ\\nX\\no\\nUJ\\nI\\na\\nz\\nQ.\\nUJ\\nO\\nH\\nUJ\\nCO\\no\\na:\\nUJ\\nX\\nui\\nis", "height": "4360", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0335.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "I\\nO\\nU\\nDC\\ni-\\nco\\nq:\\nO\\nQ\\nUJ\\n111\\ncc\\nZi\\nCD\\nU.\\nI-\\no\\nUJ\\ncc\\nill\\ncc\\no\\nu.\\nUJ\\no\\nq:\\nLU\\nX\\nUJ", "height": "4260", "width": "2804", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0336.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 335\\nthe lungs are expanded, and the exercises reversed, the\\narms brought to the first position and the breath exhaled.\\nThese movements should be repeated about five times.\\nThe next movement is as follows\\nThe subject drops her arms close to her hips and raises\\nthem above her head without bending the elbows, but\\ndrawing in the breath during this movement, exhaling the\\nbreath as the arms are dropped to the hips again. Next\\nthe subject doubles her fists and draws them toward her\\nuntil they strike her shoulders, the elbows being close to\\nher sides. Then she extends them full to the front as\\nthough striking at a punching bag, inhaling and exhaling\\nat each movement. The neck exercises should follow the\\nsubject lets her head drop forward as though she had no\\ncontrol over the muscles of the neck. She then rolls her\\nhead with a circular motion from side to side as though\\nshe were trying to describe a circle.\\nThe next boudoir gymnastics are usually those with\\nthe dumb-bells. The first four simple dumb-bell exercises\\nare practiced. The leaning movements, where the subject\\nleans forward until the tips of the fingers touch the toes\\nare also excellent. The leg swing, where the subject tries\\nto see how large a circle she can describe in the air by\\nswinging first one leg and then the other, using the large\\ntoe as a marker, is used for developing the thigh, and\\nbrings into action all the muscles of the leg from the foot\\nto the hip.\\nHigh kicking is also practiced, but I disapprove of it,\\nas I have known serious results to follow, and it is usu-\\nally too much of an exertion.", "height": "4356", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0337.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "336 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThere are several good books on physical culture, most\\nof them a little too complicated for use without the aid\\nof an instructor. The broomstick exercises, as well as\\nthose of the bells and the clubs, are perfectly described in\\na little book called Handbook of Light Gymnastics,\\nwhich can be purchased for a very small sum at any of\\nthe booksellers, and is very simple.\\nAnother and more detailed book giving directions for\\nthe use of dumb-bells is Beale s Handbook of Calisthenics.\\nThis costs at retail about seventy-five cents.", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0338.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "AN IlNn/ITATION TO\\nCONJUMPTIQ\\nCONSUMPTION\\nDEFIED\\nEXERCISES IN PHYSICAL CULTURE\\n(337)", "height": "4356", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0339.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "(338)\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 LING MOVEMENTS", "height": "4364", "width": "2844", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0340.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXXIX\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE Continued\\nHave mind upon your health. Julius Csesar.\\n^HE Swedish or Ling system and that of Dr.\\nSchreiber require no apparatus or aid of any-\\nkind; are easily taught, and do not involve\\nany great fatigue. The method of Dr. Schrei-\\nber consists solely in a series of rhythmic ges-\\ntures of the body and limbs, performed in the\\nfollowing order\\n1st. Describe a circular movement with each arm twenty\\ntimes in succession. Extend the arms forward, outward\\nand upward, thirty times in succession, taking eight or\\nten deep inspirations between each series.\\n2d. Execute a circular movement from the waist, sway-\\ning the upper part of the body slowly round, the hands\\nresting on the hips, thirty times.\\n3d. Extend the leg as nearly at right angles with the\\nbody as possible, twelve times each side, taking eight or\\nten deep inspirations between each series.\\nA.-18 (339)", "height": "4356", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0341.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "340 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\n4th. Extend and bend the foot twenty times each side\\nperform the gesture of reaping or sawing thirty times;\\nbend each knee rapidly twenty times take eight or ten\\ninspirations.\\n5th. Eaise the arm swiftly and rapidly, as in the action\\nof throwing a lance, twelve times in succession throw\\nout both arms simultaneously twenty or thirty times;\\ntake eight or ten deep inspirations.\\n6th. Trot on one spot, resting the hands on the hips,\\nand lifting the feet briskly, a hundred to three hundred\\ntimes. Take eight or ten deep inspirations.\\n7th. Jump with the hands on the hips, and the head\\nand body erect, fifty or a hundred times. Take eight or\\nten inspirations.\\nThe proper execution of these various movements,\\nwhich should be performed with vigor but without haste\\nand with intermissions for rest, should not consume more\\nthan a good half hour of time. Every gesture should be\\nwell defined and separated by a little pause from the pre-\\nceding and subsequent movement. No woman should ever\\nexercise to the limit of her strength, and pain and ex-\\nhaustion are to be feared and avoided. The room for\\ntaking these exercises should be spacious, well ventilated,\\nand with just as little furniture as possible. The dress of\\nthe performer should be loose and light. The modern\\ngymnasium suit is exactly adapted to this work. Low-\\nheeled, easy shoes should be worn or better still, shoes\\nwithout heels at all.\\nWhile adequate exercise without apparatus is quite\\npossible, the latter, however, is of special value as a daily", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0342.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE\u00e2\u0080\u0094 DUMB-BELL EXERCISES\\n(341)", "height": "4340", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0343.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "4; TRYING FOR THE GOAL\\n2: A GOOD CATCH\\n3: READY TO THROW\\n1 MAKING A PASS\\n(342) THE GAME OF BASKET BALL (A HEALTHFUL PASTIME)", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0344.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 343\\nreminder. For instance, a Whitely Exerciser hanging in\\nyour room will help keep you to your work, especially as\\nit admits of a great variety of movements including some\\nof the most beneficial out-door amusements, such as row-\\ning and swimming. It can be used by man or woman,\\nboy or girl, and makes the muscles supple, not lumpy as\\nmay be the case from dumb-bell work.\\nDumb-Bell Exercises to Build up the Chest\\nI am very often asked what kind of skin food shall be\\nused to develop the chest and bust.\\nNow, no skin food will do this work alone. The sub-\\nject must practice light gymnastics and deep breathing.\\nIn connection, massage, with a good skin food, is advised,\\nbut it must be undei stood that the skin food alone with-\\nout physical culture will do little or nothing in the way\\nof developing the chest and increasing the bust measure.\\nOne of the simplest forms of light calisthenics is with\\nthe bells. The small, wooden bells, weighing not more than\\none-half pound each, are best.\\nThe subject must wear a loose dress but no gymnasium\\ncostume is necessary. Shoes with flat heels must be worn\\nand every garment should be loose admitting of great\\nfreedom of motion. Don t attempt to exercise in a room\\nthat is not well ventilated. Open the windows so you will\\nhave fresh, pure air to breathe.\\nIn exercising keep the head up and breathe deep and\\nfull, allowing the chest to expand to the utmost. The\\ntime to take a full breath is when the muscles are relaxed.", "height": "4364", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0345.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "344 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIn the first movement for developing the chest, as seen\\nin illustration No. 1, the bells rest easily on the shoulders,\\nthe subject throws the arm out and back ten times, alter-\\nnating first the right and then the left.\\nNo. 2 shows the same movement performed with both\\narms simultaneously. This movement should be practiced\\nten times also.\\nNos. 3 and 4 illustrate the second movement, showing\\nthe arms and hands at rest and in action; practice this\\nalso first with one hand, then the other, then with both,\\nten times each.\\nNos. 5 and 6 illustrate one of the very important\\nmovements for the strengthening of the muscles. The\\nbells rest upon the shoulders, and in the movement\\nthe arm is thrown straight up by the side of the head.\\nThis movement should be repeated also ten times,\\nfirst with the right, then with the left, then simultane-\\nously.\\nNos. 7 and 8 illustrate the fourth movement. Here\\nthe bells in repose rest upon the breast. In the move-\\nment the subject throws the arm directly out and brings\\nit back again to the breast as before, first with the right,\\nthen with the left, then with both hands.\\nThere are other movements for chest development, but\\nthese four are excellent and so simple that any woman\\nby looking at these pictures should understand perfectly\\nwell how to perform them.\\nThe great point about taking exercise is to be per-\\nsistent in it; not to overdo in the beginning, and not to\\npermit the monotony which is sure to follow at a certain", "height": "4384", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0346.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 345\\nstage in all gymnastics to discourage one and cause one\\nto drop the exercise.\\nYou can t develop your chest in a day, or a week, or a\\nmonth you can do a great deal, however, in this way in\\nthree months if you are in good health.\\nThese exercises can be performed at home in one s own\\nbedroom; beginners should not practice over fifteen min-\\nutes a day for all four of the movements.\\nNever take the exercise when overfatigued, or directly\\nafter eating.\\nIn addition to the calisthenics, frequent ablutions with\\nwarm water, massage with electricity, if it is to be had,\\nplenty of sleep in a well-ventilated room, and simple and\\nnourishing food are advised.\\nFlat-Chested Girls\\nSymptoms of a flat chest are seen in young girls fre-\\nquently as early as nine and ten years of age. Such\\ngirls should be trained to increase the actual size of the\\nlungs or, more properly speaking, to expand their unused\\nportions.\\nWhen the lungs expand fully they press the ribs and\\nthe breastbone outward. For this reason, the best exer-\\ncises for an undeveloped child will be exercises that call\\nfor repeated lung expansion. Singing lessons are excel-\\nlent, but must be taken with moderation during the form-\\ning period. Young girls and children under fourteen\\nwho have flat chests should be encouraged to exercise in\\nhopping, skipping and running. All of these exercises", "height": "4360", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0347.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "346 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nexpand the chest, although they are properly called leg\\nexercises.\\nIn running, always begin slowly, then increase, and\\nnever run to the utmost speed. Always close the run\\nwith the same moderation with which it was commenced.\\nStoop-Shouldered Women\\nNo woman who stoops can have any style about her.\\nThe woman with round shoulders may put on the most\\nswagger French gown, but she will not look a bit smarter\\nthan though she were arrayed in a bargain-counter cos-\\ntume.\\nBut round shoulders are very easily cured in young\\npeople they are not difficult to repair in women over\\nthirty, and I have seen them remedied in grandmothers.\\nThe first thing for a girl or woman to do who wants\\nto straighten her shoulders is for her to determine to\\ndo so. She w^ill have to exert her will power, as one\\nalways must to break a habit. For while round shoul-\\nders are sometimes the result of a weakened system, they\\nare far oftener the effect of a habit proceeding from\\ncarelessness. Girls who are studying, women who read, or\\nwrite, or who are troubled with defective vision, are most\\napt to grow round shouldered.\\nThe best way to cure round shoulders is by begin-\\nning at night with a radical change in the sleeping po-\\nsition. All stoopers sleep upon high pillows, taking up\\nthe bad chest contracting habit at night and continuing\\nit without intermission till morning. One small, flat", "height": "4364", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0348.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "TO DEVELOP CALF OF LEG\\nTO REDUCE SIZE OF WAIST\\nCHEST DEVELOPMENT AND ROUNDED ARMS\\nEXERCISES IN PHYSICAL CULTURE\\n(347)", "height": "4348", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0349.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4364", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0350.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 349\\npillow is all that any one needs. The round-shouldered\\nsubject should really learn to sleep without any pillow\\nat all.\\nThen during every moment the subject is awake she\\nshould make an effort to bear her infirmity in mind.\\nIt is easy enough to stand erect while you think of it\\nbut a trifle hard to remember not. to forget, as the chil-\\ndren say. Stand straight and look up, not down.\\nRound-shouldered persons are not often aware of the\\nfact, but they rarely look people in the eyes, as they\\nwalk. To acquire the habit of holding the head up, there\\nis no better practice than walking about one s room for\\nhalf an hour each day with a book balanced on the head.\\nIn addition to these simple methods practice chest\\nexpansion. I wish all round-shouldered girls who write\\nme, and their name is legion, would try to cure themselves\\nand not expect that any external lotion or some absurd\\nand senseless application will do the work miraculously.\\nIt is quite right to give nourishment to the skin and tis-\\nsues from the outside, and round-shouldered women fre-\\nquently need a skin food which should be rubbed well\\ninto the chest, up and down the back and across the\\nshoulders. But skin food alone will accomplish very little.\\nYou must stand erect, hold up your head, keep your\\neyes on a level with people s faces, sleep in a proper po-\\nsition and practice persistently month in and out some\\nform of physical culture. The very simplest chest exer-\\ncises, heretofore described, will answer.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0351.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "9 GlLfjeUT -V\\nCHAPTER XL\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE Continued\\nOnly we want a little personal strength. Henry IV.\\nINCE the cry came from Paris that *hips will not\\nbe worn this season many hitherto proud pos-\\nsessors of those articles began to think out vari-\\nous schemes to rid themselves of the superfluous\\nflesh. Some women found this an easy task,\\nsince it consisted merely of loosening a couple\\nof strings and removing the undesirable cushions bodily,\\nas it were. But, unfortunately, in consideration of the\\npresent modes, every woman does not have hips of woven\\nwire and horse hair. They are layers of too, too solid\\nflesh, which, despite her most vigorous fretting, sternly\\nrefuse to melt.\\nThe present styles of dress necessitate more than ever\\nbefore a well set up figure, to borrow the West Point\\nvernacular.\\n(350)", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0352.jp2"}, "351": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0353.jp2"}, "352": {"fulltext": "HALF STANDING, TRUNK BENDING BACKWARD\\n(352)\\nEXERCISE FOR STRENGTHENING ABDOMINAL MUSCLES\\nSWEDISH MOVEMENTS", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0354.jp2"}, "353": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 353\\nThe popular idea that your whole body will move grace-\\nfully if you hold your head up and your chin out has not\\nproved always satisfactory.\\nWe are each more or less affected by the fact that we\\ncome of generations of women who have, so to speak,\\nbroken at the waist line. Sometimes because we and our\\nancestors have worn indifferent corsets; frequently because\\nwe have been swept off our feet by a dress-reform wave\\nand have thrown corsets to the dogs, metaphorically\\nspeaking.\\nWhatever the cause, the average woman appears to be\\nwoefully weak about the lumbar and abdominal regions.\\nThe muscles are flabby and atrophied, and nothing but\\nphysical exercise will restore them and give the woman\\nbackbone enough to acquire what is known as the rigid\\nwaist, which gives to the athletic girl and matron the\\ncarriage and distinction the narrow gowning of to-day\\nrequires.\\nThe exercises illustrated here are especially designed to\\ngive a woman a supple and elegant walk and carriage.\\nPracticing them persistently and patiently for six or\\neight months, each movement ten or twenty times once\\nor twice a day, will make a goddess of a girl who now\\nlooks more like a jellyfish than a Diana.\\nPracticing a week or spasmodically will have only the\\neffect of making the subject a bit lame in the regions of\\nthe hitherto unused muscles, and very uncertain as to her\\ntemper; so I do not advise the attempt and not the deed.\\nThe exercises here illustrated are devised for the re-\\nduction of fat about the hips and abdomen,", "height": "4360", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0355.jp2"}, "354": {"fulltext": "354 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nMiss Bergman, one of the most skillful exponents of\\nthe Swedish system in this country, declares that in con-\\nnection with a proper diet and attention to general\\nhealth these movements, for which one of her pupils\\nposed under her directions, will not only result in the\\nelimination of fat, but will restore the subject to her\\nyouthful grace and contour.\\nThe Swedish exercises, like every other, should be\\ntaken advisedly and with moderation in the beginning.\\nThe chief trouble with obese subjects is that they rely\\ntoo much, it appears to me, upon their individual and\\nunaided exertions and pay too little attention to the\\ncounsel of those who are by experience qualified to guide\\nthem over the not altogether thornless paths that lead to\\nslimness and without the aid and encouragement of a\\nperson who understands what can and should be accom-\\nplished, the subject is very apt to attempt too much at\\nfirst, both in exercise and abstinence, and suffers in con-\\nsequence.\\nTo Fill Out Thin and Scrawny Throats\\nAt about forty, flabby throats may be looked for in\\nplump or stout women, and generally found. The mus-\\ncles that support the flesh lose their firmness usually\\nfrom lack of exercise, for the woman of forty, though she\\nis frequently unconscious of the fact, has grown a little\\ntoo self-indulgent does not bestir herself as she did ten\\nyears before sleeps more eats more and, increasing in\\nflesh, is surprised to see that the once solid structure of\\nher throat has apparently lost its underbracing.", "height": "4392", "width": "2860", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0356.jp2"}, "355": {"fulltext": "SITTING, TRUNK BENDING BACKWARD WITH ARMS BENDING AND STRETCHING\\nSAME AS THE FIRST WITH ARMS STRETCHING\\nSWEDISH MOVEMENTS FOR REDUCING STOMACH AND HIPS\\n(355)", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0357.jp2"}, "356": {"fulltext": "u m\\nHI CO\\n2\\nI- 9\\nI- o\\n_ m\\no\\nu.\\nCO\\n111\\nCO\\no\\nq:\\nai\\nX\\nUJ\\nQ\\nUJ\\nX", "height": "4364", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0358.jp2"}, "357": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE ^^1\\nTt really is only a question of exercise, care and pa-\\ntience to get back again the old firmness, provided, of\\ncourse, one has not ill health to contend with.\\nWhen an athlete lets up on his exercise he gets\\nsoft, but he knows that a fortnight s training will put\\nhim to rights again and make him as fit as ever.\\nThe woman who wishes to do so can restore her\\nthroat to its original firmness and roundness, but she can-\\nnot accomplish this desirable end by merely thinking or\\ntalking about it.\\nShe must exercise, do work that no one can do for her.\\nThe illustrations show exercises for developing and\\nrestoring the throat.\\nThey are so simple that any woman can understand\\nand practice them.\\nThe first movement consists in allowing the head to\\ndrop gently upon the breast, as far forward as it will\\nwithout straining.\\nNext raise the head and throw it as far back as possi-\\nble. Then forward again, etc., until the movement has\\nbeen performed twenty times.\\nNext the head is turned as far to the side as possible,\\nthe body remaining motionless, the head bent toward the\\nshoulder as low as it will reach without an actual strain\\nof the muscles and tendons. This movement should be\\npracticed also twenty times; the neck first turned to the\\nright and then to the left, ten times on each side.\\nThe same movement, with the chin raised as high as\\npossible, repeated in the same fashion, first toward the\\nright, then the left.", "height": "4352", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0359.jp2"}, "358": {"fulltext": "358 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe illustration showing the expelling of the breath\\nwhen the subject slowly chants the word blow explains\\npictorially an excellent and very simple breathing exer-\\ncise.\\nThe subject first takes a deep, long breath, inflating\\nthe lungs fully.\\nThen she expels the breath slowly, pronouncing the\\nword blo-o-o-ow as she does so.\\nThis exercise should be repeated twenty times also.\\nThe dumb-bell exercises illustrated in an earlier por-\\ntion of this chapter are excellent for developing the\\nshoulders, bust and neck.\\nGrace and Health Gained by Running\\nThe American girl can be saved by proper physical\\ntraining from becoming the American woman with nerves,\\nsaid Mr. William Blaikie, author of How to Get Strong,\\nand How to Stay so.\\nThis physical training should begin during the earlier\\nyears of childhood. Take a girl at her fifth birthday, and\\nteach her to run slowly, with erect carriage, as far as\\nshe can with comfort every secular day until she reaches\\nher majority. Suppose by fifteen she ran as far as she\\ncould with comfort in ten minutes, would it trouble her\\nmuch at eighteen, or at twenty-one to run a mile at a\\ngood pace, too?\\nIs it not likely that even several miles under favor-\\ning circumstances for instance, in a hare and hounds\\ngame, would disturb her? Had she been taught to run", "height": "4388", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0360.jp2"}, "359": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 359\\nproperly, never touching her heels to the ground and\\nspring lightly from her toes and sole, to hold her arms\\npractically motionless, her chest high, as near her chin\\nas she could get it, and keep it there do you think\\nthat the muscles she used in running through all these\\nyears, would be weak Would she have half-developed\\nlungs, or well-developed ones Would the muscles which\\nheld her body erect, be easily up to their work, and would\\nit not be natural for her to be erect?\\nLooking at a girl so trained, continued Mr. Blaikie,\\ndo we recall Emerson s saying, that m all human\\naction, those faculties will be strong which are used\\nShe has been intelligently using certain parts of her body\\nand limbs for many years; not violently, not overdoing\\nthem, but rationally. This built them up and made them\\nstrong, precisely as it did for her brother who ran with\\nher in all those daily stretches. Her most important mus-\\ncle, her heart, thus also trained to strong, steady, sensible\\nbut never violent exercise, gained steadily in quality,\\nstrength and endurance. In short, she has an educated\\nheart, educated lungs, educated limbs.\\nAnd it has brought her many other good things,\\nsunny, buoyant, radiant health, a feeling of equality to\\nevery demand a magnetism, a personal charm that none\\nbut the really healthy have or know. Bright eyes, blooming\\ncomplexion, a brain fed with healthy blood not the sickly\\nnor well-nigh worthless article make her better fitted for\\nall the mental work she may be called upon to do.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0361.jp2"}, "360": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XLI\\nPHYSICAL CULTURE Concluded\\nLeap in with me and swim to yo ider point.. Julius Caesar.\\nKNOWLEDGE of how the body can be sustained\\nin the water may mean the saving of a life\\nto the girl or woman who seeks the pleas-\\nures of ocean, lake or stream during the\\nsummer outing. The art of swimming de-\\npends upon a few rules which may be easily\\nlearned by any one with the exercise of pa-\\ntience and some courage.\\nIt is possible to learn to swim without an instructor,\\nand the girl who posed for these pictures is an expert\\nswimmer who never had a teacher.\\nWhen learning to swim a place should be selected\\nwhere the slope is gradual from the water s edge, the\\nbottom smooth, hard and sandy, and free from bowlders.\\nArtificial aids, such as corks, air belts, cork jackets and\\nthe like, should be avoided, as they raise some parts of\\n(360)", "height": "4392", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0362.jp2"}, "361": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE B61\\nthe body too high above and allow other parts to sink too\\nfar below the natural plane of flotation. It should be re-\\nmembered that the more entirely the body i-s submerged\\nthe more easily the head can be sustained above the\\nwater. Confidence in the floating power of the body\\nshould be acquired by the swimmer as soon as possible.\\nThis is one of the hardest things for the beginner to be-\\nlieve, that the body will float in the water under certain\\nconditions. The easiest way to float is to lie on the back,\\nthe arms easily resting by the sides. This attitude not\\nonly facilitates respiration, but counterbalances the weight\\nof the lower limbs, which should be entirely submerged,\\nbut just under the surface of the water.\\nNo better start toward learning to swim can be made\\nthan to wade out until the water comes high up on the\\nchest, then with a full indrawing of the breath, allow the\\nbody to sink backward with the head toward the shore\\nuntil only the mouth and nose are above the water. The\\narms and lower limbs should be disposed as described, and\\nif all effort be dispensed with, and the body quietly and\\nconfidently submitted to the water, it will be lightly up-\\nborne. When in this position the breathing should be\\neasy and regular, and if the body be kept perfectly bal-\\nanced it will assert its buoyancy and the desired and nec-\\nessary confidence be soon acquired.\\nFirst Attempt at a Stroke\\nTo attempt to propel the body through the water while\\nfloating on the back will very soon follow the discovery\\nthat it will float. This is a pleasant and very useful way", "height": "4360", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0363.jp2"}, "362": {"fulltext": "362 HARRIET HUBBARD A^ER\\nof swimming, and if confidence be retained the beginner\\nwill have very little trouble. The first m,ovement is to\\ndraw the legs up to the body at the same time spreading\\nthem apart as far as possible. The legs should then be\\nextended by one firm movement and at the same time\\nbrought close together. This motion sends the body for-\\nward, and when the impetus imparted is nearly but not\\nquite expended, the legs are spread apart and brought\\nclose to the body as before, and the previous movement\\nof extending and drawing them together is repeated.\\nWhen extending the legs the breath should be exhaled,\\nand inhaled when drawn up. If greater speed be desired\\nthe hands can be used as sculls by carrying them out-\\nward from the body and at the same time level with it,\\npalms down. Just as the legs are closed, the hands and\\narms should be pulled strongly toward them.\\nNotwithstanding back swimming is the most easily\\nlearned, breast swimming is the commonest and most\\ngenerally practiced. This is begun by gently sinking the\\nbody forward in the water and extending the arms to\\ntheir full length forward, keeping the fingers closed and\\nthe palms fiat. Turn the palms of both hands outward\\nand make a strong stroke to the right and left with each\\narm. The hands should not be sunk deep under the\\nwater, as this tends to raise the body. The object is to\\nkeep the body as nearly horizontal as possible in the\\nwater and to propel it straight forward without raising it.\\nAs the arms are brought round in the semicircular\\nmovement the lower limbs are stiffened and brought\\nfirmly together. The arm movements should not be more", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0364.jp2"}, "363": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 363\\nrapid than those of the legs^ as the latter are the main\\npropellers. Unison in movement and regularity of stroke\\nare indispensable to best results. If all hurry and excite-\\nment be avoided and each stroke and kick be accomplished\\nprecisely and completely, swimming may not only be made\\nuseful and invigorating, but the swimmer may appear very\\ngraceful in the water\\nHow TO Tread Water\\nThe act of treading water is very naturally performed.\\nThe movements necessary are almost identical with the\\nmovements required in walking. In case of accidental im-\\nmersion when the body is fully clothed, a knowledge of\\nthe art of treading water will preserve life for a long\\ntime. The body assumes a perpendicular position when\\ncast into deep water owing to the buoyancy of the lungs.\\nWhen the water comes up over the mouth and nose the\\ninclination of any one unable to swim is to throw the\\nhands up out of the water. All such effort serves but\\nto increase the danger. When thrown into deep water\\none should be perfectly inactive for a short time. The\\nhead will very soon rise above the surface, and at that\\nmoment the hands and feet should be employed in nearly\\nthe same manner as in walking the hands beating the\\nwater at the sides and the feet climbing imaginary stairs.\\nThe hands should never be raised above the surface of the\\nwater, and the head should be bent back so as to submerge\\nthe shoulders, neck and as much of the head as will not\\ninterfere with breathing.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 19", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0365.jp2"}, "364": {"fulltext": "364 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe overhead stroke is the style known to all boys\\nas dog-fashion. Its practice is not advisable because it\\npropels the body slowly and its rapid movements soon ex-\\nhaust the sw^immer.\\nHow TO Float\\nThe art of floating is more easily acquired than that\\nof swimming, and if it be learned first it is an aid in giv-\\ning confidence.\\nIt is best, I think, to learn to float in shallow water,\\nor moderately shallow water. If the subject be timid some\\none should stand beside her and for the first few trials\\nshould place the hand firmly under the base of the be-\\nginner s spine in such a w^ay as to afford physical as well\\nas moral encouragement.\\nDiving is a wonderful accomplishment, but it should\\nnever be attempted by the amateur. It demands courage\\nand nerve, and no girl should try to dive until she is a\\nfearless swimmer, even then it is best to learn to dive\\nfrom a comparatively slight elevation.\\nBathing Costumes\\nThere is an old-fashioned idea that bathing costumes\\nshould be made of fiannel. I think this a mistake.\\nThe most comfortable swimming dress I have ever worn\\nwas made of black china silk serge, while always in\\nvogue, is heavier and does not cling less than the china\\nsilk. Of course the dress must be so made as to impede\\nthe limbs as little as possible. A skirt just to the knees,", "height": "4384", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0366.jp2"}, "365": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 365\\nknickerbocker trousers, a loose bodice, free at the neck,\\nwith short sleeves, this is really an ideal bathing suit.\\nIt is a very good plan for beginners to w^ear a leather\\nbelt strong enough to bear the strain of lifting the body\\nif it should become necessary.\\nA reaction should follow^ the cold plunge, and no one\\nshould remain in the v^ater w^ho feels chilly or shivers.\\nThere can be no pleasure in bathing in the ocean\\nwhile one is chattering with cold, and there is very great\\ndanger in remaining in the water when such a condition\\nexists.\\nOccasionally a sea bath will give one a headache, in\\nwhich case the person should leave the water immedi-\\nately. The same is true in case of an attack of giddiness\\nor coldness of the extremities. The practice of taking a\\nstimulant before or after the bath is a very bad and un-\\nwholesome one. Women in a normal state of health do\\nnot require a stimulant either before or after a sea or\\nfresh-water bath.\\nIt is best to be provided with a bathing gown or wrap\\nwhich one can fold about one s self both for warmth and\\nprotection from the sands to the bath house.\\nCramps and Vertigo\\nAt the slightest symptom of a cramp, which is easily\\nrecognized without a description, call to some one to aid\\nyou in leaving the water if you are unable to propel\\nyourself, or if for any reason you think you may not be\\nable to reach the shore witl^Qut ^^ssistance, A cramp is a", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0367.jp2"}, "366": {"fulltext": "366 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nvery nasty species of torment. Friction alone seems to\\nbe useful in such cases. A vigorous rubbing will usually\\nrelieve the pain and distress, but the subject should not\\nreturn to the water the same day.\\nOccasionally a first-rate swimmer will be seized by an\\nattack of vertigo on leaving the water, and frequently\\nambitious beginners overtax themselves in their efforts to\\nlearn to swim or to buffet the weaves and are attacked\\nwith sudden faintness. A few drops of aromatic spirits\\nof ammonia in a little fresh water will relieve these con-\\nditions almost immediately.\\nHow TO Rescue the Drowning\\nAccidents will happen sometimes even in the midst of\\na delightful summer vacation.\\nPerhaps you are an athletic girl and a strong swim-\\nmer. Perhaps it may devolve upon you to save some\\nless skillful comrade from drowning. Possibly, if that\\nopportunity came you would be absolutely helpless be-\\ncause of your lack of knowledge upon the art of life-\\nsaving.\\nIt will do no harm anyway to be prepared in case of\\nsuch an accident.\\nDo not wait for the drowning person to come to the\\nsurface before you attempt a rescue, for it is quite likely\\nthat he will not rise at all. Act immediately. Watch\\nfor air bubbles on the surface of the water and plunge in\\nabout where your judgment tells you the drowning man\\nhas gone down. Great caution must be exercised, for if", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0368.jp2"}, "367": {"fulltext": "PHYSICAL CULTURE 367\\nyou are clutched too effectually your work of rescue may\\nhave a most disastrous ending. Approach the drowning\\nman from the back, hold his arms to prevent struggling,\\nlift his head just above the water and with vigorous, even\\nleg strokes swim for shore.\\nIt is important to remember that in swimming with\\na person through the water his elbows should be kept\\naway from his sides. This expands the lungs and adds\\nto his buoyancy.\\nIf you are grasped by the drowning man radical meas-\\nures must be resorted to. If clutched about the neck lean\\nover him, place your left hand on the small of his back,\\nseize his nostrils with your right fingers and press him\\naway from you. He must open his mouth to breathe and\\nduring the choking which will ensue you can get complete\\ncontrol.\\nIf clutched about the body place your left hand on his\\nshoulder and bring the right knee against his chest, push\\nwith all your might and you will be released.\\nLay the subject flat on his back with a support under\\nthe shoulders and loosen all clothing. Roll him over un-\\ntil he is face downward, his head resting on one arm.\\nThoroughly cleanse the throat and nostrils of all matter\\nwhich may obstruct the air passages, and return him to\\nthe first position. Draw the tongue forward, fastening with\\na handkerchief to prevent its falling back into the throat.\\nProceed to the work of artificial respiration. Grasp\\nhis arms below the elbows and draw them upward and\\noutward above the head. Hold them here for a second\\nor two, then carry them back and press them firmly to", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0369.jp2"}, "368": {"fulltext": "368\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthe sides and front of chest. Repeat these operations\\nabout fifteen times a minute, until natural respiration is\\nestablished.\\nTo promote warmth and circulation is the next care.\\nRub the person well all over the body, especially in the\\ndirection of the heart, so that the blood will flow naturally\\nin that direction.", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0370.jp2"}, "369": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0371.jp2"}, "370": {"fulltext": "THIS POSITION RETARDS THE CIRCULATION OF THE BLOOD\\nTHIS POSITION INVITES NIGHTMARE\\n(370)\\nCORRECT SLEEPING POSITION", "height": "4360", "width": "2812", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0372.jp2"}, "371": {"fulltext": "([lLl!)Er\\\\I\\nCHAPTER XLII\\nHOW TO SLEEP\\nSleep, that sometimes shuts up sorrow s eje. Shakespeare.\\ns SLEEPING is one of the most important func-\\ntions of life, it is necessary to know how to\\nprepare for it, and how, if possible, to main-\\ntain a healthful and comfortable position\\nduring the hours of repose.\\nAltogether too little time is given to rest.\\nThe majority of people are workers. They toil irom six\\nto ten hours daily, and are not content to make their play-\\ntime short. Instead of eight hours sleep, recommended\\nby the laws of health, they seldom get more than five or\\nsix. This of course quickly destroys both health and\\nvigor, especially of women. Somehow, lack of sleep affects\\na woman s looks more quickly than a man s.\\nSleeping rooms, too, are often unsuited for the purpose\\nto which they are put. There are any number of girls\\n(371)", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0373.jp2"}, "372": {"fulltext": "372 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nand women who, having but one room to themselves, are\\nanxious to make that room do duty for several. They\\nconvert a couch into a bed. They surround it with dra-\\nperies that soon become dust laden, and they pile it with\\nsilk and cretonne-covered cushions, which are used daily\\nbut seldom cleaned. All this they prefer to a clean white\\nbed. The walls of this room are hung with innumerable\\ngewgaws, which they suppose are artistic, but which only\\nsucceed in being unhygienic. If one hope for the best\\nhealth, she must make some sacrifices; and after all, it\\npays in the end.\\nThe Japanese would never think of sleeping in a fur-\\nnished room. In their sleeping apartments there is nothing\\nmore than a roll of matting which constitutes a bed.\\nAmericans would do well to follow the hardy little Ori-\\nental in this respect.\\nThe most hygienic night robe is a cotton one. If\\npossible, wear it also in winter in preference to a heavy\\nflannel one. Never tuck it under the pillow during the\\nday. It should be first thoroughly aired, then hung in\\nthe closet.\\nThe best way to arrange one s hair in the night, is to\\nplait it. It should be braided loosely to prevent the hairs\\nfrom breaking, and in one braid.\\nBeds should not be soft and downy, and girls and women\\nmust not, as a certain physician says they are apt to do,\\nsurround themselves with a great many pillows. This is\\nenervating, prevents ventilation, hinders circulation and\\nrenders the flesh flabby. A hard bed is best for making\\nfirm flesh.", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0374.jp2"}, "373": {"fulltext": "HOW TO SLEEP 373\\nTo sleep prone upon the back, as shown in the illustra-\\ntion, is unhygienic. With the figure propped up with\\nmany pillows and the knees raised, it is impossible to ob-\\ntain beneficial sleep. This position sends the blood to the\\nbrain, and induces nightmare and bad dreams. It causes\\nthe mouth to drop open, thus making nasal breathing im-\\npossible.\\nSleeping on the stomach is also unhealthful. It hinders\\ndigestion and circulation, and renders breathing difficult.\\nBy the pictures it will be observed that in both incor-\\nrect positions, the arms of the sleeper are thrown over her\\nhead. This is what particularly impairs the circulation.\\nSleeping on the right side stretches the muscles about\\nthe heart, and increases any trouble one may have with\\nthat organ.\\nAn eminent physician says that the correct way to\\nsleep is on the left side with the arm thrown behind. Ani-\\nmals sleep as nearly upon the chest as possible and they\\nadopt the best methods usually, in these matters. As\\nshown in the picture, this brings the body nearly, but not\\nquite over the chest. This is the best position for pro-\\nmoting health and a fine figure.\\nThat the brain may receive more perfect rest, the room\\nshould always be darkened, daring the hours of slumber.\\nFor those who are bad sleepers this precaution should\\nespecially be taken.", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0375.jp2"}, "374": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XLIII\\nBEAUTY AND HEALTH FOR THE BUSINESS\\nWOMAN\\nBecause their business still lies out o door. Comedy of Errors.\\nHE business woman s good looks are as impor-\\ntant and essential to her success as beauty and\\nwealth to a society woman. We may dodge\\nthe issue for a time, and we may prate about\\nbrains and capacity and all that, but when the\\nopportunity offers for a place, other things\\nbeing equal, the best looking of the business\\nwomen applicants will get the position every time.\\nIt is scarcely necessary to say that a woman in busi-\\nness should dress with some severity. Laces and furbe-\\nlows are out of place in an oflBce intended for work.\\nBusiness women meet men on a business footing only,\\nduring office hours. A man arrayed in evening clothes,\\nwith white kid gloves upon his hands at his office early\\nin the morning, would not be more unbecomingly or\\n(374)", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0376.jp2"}, "375": {"fulltext": "BEAUTY AND HEALTH 375\\nabsurdly dressed than a woman is with her flounces, laces\\nand jewelry.\\nShirt waists, plain linen collars and ties, tailor-made\\nskirts and blazers, are the acceptable and proper make-up\\nof the business woman s working costume.\\nThe woman who dresses plainly will have more time\\nand money, also, to care for her actual self, both physic-\\nally and mentally. The business woman of moderate\\nsalary cannot indulge in massage, or even visit a mani-\\ncure. She can, however, do much by exquisite personal\\nneatness and a nourishing diet, to ward off the ravages of\\ntime and care.\\nFirst of all she should cultivate a contented spirit.\\nRecollect that nothing so soon fixes disagreeable lines\\nupon the face as habits of scowling, or facial contortions\\nof any description.\\nKeep your soul above the petty trials of life. Look\\nup, my dear friends, and forward. Above the roughness\\nof the earth you will always find a bit of blue some-\\nwhere in the firmament, and if you watch patiently you\\nwill find a little star of hope trying hard to send you a\\nloving little twinkle of encouragement out of the blackest\\nnight.\\nDon t waste your strength in losing your temper over\\nsmall things. We have just so much vital force, each\\none of us. If we waste it over trifles (and a lot of\\nstrength escapes in each angry word) we will not have it\\nfor our work or our diversion.\\nThe business woman of necessity makes but the one toilet\\nfor the day. She should, on rising, take a full sponge bath,", "height": "4352", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0377.jp2"}, "376": {"fulltext": "B76 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ncarefully washing her face with hot water and soap if she\\nhas used a cream or lotion before going to bed in clear,\\ntepid water otherwise. Every particle of soap must be\\nwashed out and finally the face rinsed in clear, cold water.\\nWhere a woman is strong enough I heartily advocate the\\ncold plunge. Draw the water the night before and there\\nwill be no shock, and the stimulant of a cold morning\\nbath gives tone to the system and stands by one like\\na tonic whose influence is felt all day. A little Lait Vir-\\nginal in the plunge or the rinsing water for the sponge\\nbath is also refreshing and invigorating. Five minutes\\nexercise with a pair of light, wooden dumb-bells will mean\\nan appetite for breakfast and will cure any disposition to\\nmorning headache.\\nThe teeth should be brushed twice before leaving home\\nfor the day; once on rising and again after breakfast,\\nwhich should be a substantial meal with a cup of good\\nEnglish breakfast tea instead of the complexion-destroyer,\\ncoffee.\\nBrush the teeth always up and down. I suggest a sim-\\nple antiseptic dentifrice easily made at home for the first\\nbrushing, and a very delicious tooth wash for the second.\\nPass a bit of dental silk between the teeth to remove\\nevery stray particle of food. A business woman s whole\\nfuture may be made or marred by the appearance of her\\nmouth when she opens it to speak or smile.\\nThe business woman should take at least an hour for\\nher night toilet which positively requires a full hot bath\\nwith a brush scrub from head to foot, ten minutes at\\nleast for brushing and braiding the hair, and a careful", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0378.jp2"}, "377": {"fulltext": "BEAUTY AND HEALTH 377\\nexamination of the skin. If the cuticle be inclined to be\\nrough a good cream should be gently rubbed into it if\\nthe wrinkles are crowding themselves into prominence\\nthey must be kneaded and smoothed and coaxed away; if\\nthere be an ominous little patch of brown just above one\\ncheek or a queer discoloration resembling the tiny prints\\nof a little brown hand across the tired brow, there is\\nno time to lose in applying a lotion which will turn these\\nintruders pale and banish them after a little if there\\nbe other blemishes they should be taken account of now,\\nThe gown should be brushed, collar and cuffs laid out\\nand everything put in readiness for there will be no time\\nin the morning and far from least important of all rule\\nfor the business woman to rigorously adhere to is a well-\\nventilated chamber and a scrupulously clean, comfortable\\nbed to sleep in. Every working woman that can possible\\ndo so, even though it costs her a denial of luxury, owes\\nherself a sleeping room quite apart, where she can each\\nnight rest mind and body, and undisturbed for ten long,\\nsweet hours refresh her exhausted forces through that\\ndeep well-earned sleep that is the Heaven-sent reward of\\nhonest toil, the sleep that does indeed knit up the raveled\\nsleeve of care.\\nTOOTH POWDER\\nPrecipitated chalk 4 ounces.\\nPulverized borax 2 ounces.\\nPowdered myrrh 1 ounce.\\nPulverized orris 1 ounce.\\nMix and sift through fine bolting cloth.", "height": "4340", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0379.jp2"}, "378": {"fulltext": "378\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nVIOLET DENTIFRICE OR MOUTH WASH\\nTincture orris 1 ounce.\\nEssence white rose 1 ounce.\\nAlcohol 1 ounce-,\\nPeppermint 20 drops.\\nMix. Pour a few drops into a little water and rinse the mouth\\nthoroughly.", "height": "4388", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0380.jp2"}, "379": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XLIV\\nMOTHER AND CHILD\\nA mother is a mother still\\nThe holiest thing alive.\\nColeridge.\\nY CHILD has a right to be born well and strong\\nmentally and physically.\\nThis should be the constant thought of\\nevery pregnant woman.\\nTo bear children is the holiest mission of\\nour sex.\\nTo bring beautiful, noble sons and daugh-\\nters into the world we must live beautiful and noble lives\\nourselves, for it is as true of men and women as of plants\\nand trees, By their fruits ye shall know them.\\nTo the woman who has a good constitution and has\\nlearned how to take care of her own mental and physical\\nhealth, maternity has no terrors on the contrary, she\\nlooks forward with pride and joy to the advent of the\\nbabe, beloved from its conception.\\n(379)", "height": "4356", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0381.jp2"}, "380": {"fulltext": "380 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nSuch a woman, when she learns that she is to bring an\\nimmortal soul into the world, will consecrate herself anew\\nto all that is highest and best within her reach, and will\\nobserve morally and physically such a high standard of\\nmental and physical health that her power of resisting all\\nbodily ailments, as well as those of a mental order, will\\nbe immensely increased and will be imparted to her child.\\nThe first thing to be done for a newborn baby, when\\nit has left the physician s or midwife s hands, is to give it\\na bath.\\nThe baby s first bath differs from the succeeding ablu-\\ntions for this reason:\\nNewborn babies are more or less covered with a thick,\\nwhite wax-like material that is easier removed by an emol-\\nlient than by soap and water.\\nTherefore the little one s first toilet should consist of\\nan oil bath, olive oil may be used, or vaseline is equally\\neffective.\\nApply the oil or vaseline with a bit of old flannel, keep-\\ning the baby well covered during the process.\\nRecollect that an infant is very sensitive to cold.\\nThe Vernix Caseosa, which is the technical name for\\nthe white substance, will yield to the unguent, and the\\nbaby, when entirely clean, may be very gently rubbed all\\nover with a bit of old, soft linen to remove any superflu-\\nous oil.\\nThe navel is best dressed with antiseptic absorbent\\ncotton in this fashion\\nTake a bit of cotton about three inches square and\\nplace it on the left side of the abdomen just above the", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0382.jp2"}, "381": {"fulltext": "WRONG WAY TO PUT A BABY IN A TUB\\nRIGHT WAY TO PUT A BABY IN A TUB\\n(381)", "height": "4360", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0383.jp2"}, "382": {"fulltext": "(382)\\nSEW THE BABY S CLOTHES ON", "height": "4332", "width": "2796", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0384.jp2"}, "383": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 383\\nnavel. Lay the remnant of the navel cord upon it v^ith\\nits cut end pointing upward and to the left.\\nArrange it so that the absorbent cotton comes under\\nthe base of the cord, and put another bit of cotton the\\nsame size over the cord.\\nKeep the whole in place by a soft flannel bellyband.\\nFlannel bands are better than linen because they main-\\ntain an equal temperature, absorb the secretions and emit\\nless of the disagreeable odor which accompanies the dress-\\ning of the navel.\\nThe cord also comes off sooner, frequently as early as\\nthe fourth day.\\nAfter the cord separates dress the navel with a little\\nvaseline, apply more cotton and a fresh band.\\nIf the navel should form a sort of pouch and protrude\\ndo not be alarmed.\\nCut a thin slice of cork two inches in diameter, or\\neven a piece of pasteboard if you have no cork conven-\\nient.\\nWrap it with several thicknesses of old linen or band-\\nage, lay it over the protruding navel and keep it in place\\nwith the flannel band.\\nNewborn babies require only very simple clothing.\\nDon t weigh the little stranger down with furbelows\\nand frills.\\nKnitted silk and wool shirts, barrow coats or foot blan-\\nkets, flannel skirts, plenty of napkins and slips, and a soft,\\nlight cloak and cap are all the little one requires be he\\nthe child of wealth or humble means, for the first few\\nmonths.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 20", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0385.jp2"}, "384": {"fulltext": "384 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nFortunately the long, useless dresses and petticoats\\nthat formerly were such a burden to mother as well as\\na hindrance and discomfort to the baby have been aban-\\ndoned.\\nI hope it is a long good-bye as well to the low necks\\nand short sleeves that in our mothers days were fashion-\\nable and left the poor little baby with its shoulders and\\narms as bare as a modish mother at the end of the cen-\\ntury in her opera box.\\nFood\\nNewborn babies need no artificial food.\\nNature provides for the baby and it needs nothing\\nbut the laxative secretion which the mother s breast will\\nyield at the first invitation from the precious little\\nmouth.\\nNurses frequently insist upon feeding a newborn baby,\\nbut it is a mistake to do so, for when the delivery is nat-\\nural and the mother doing well the baby will get its\\nproper nourishment from the breast.\\nIf for any cause the mother fail to be able to nurse\\nthe babe a wet nurse is the best substitute.\\nThe choice of a wet nurse is a serious matter.\\nThe woman who is to enjoy the privilege of nourish-\\ning your child should be young, healthy, of good repute\\nand habits, and cleanly.\\nShe should be willing to submit to a thorough ex-\\namination by a good physician and also by a dentist.\\nIt is an outrage to put a poor little defenseless child\\ninto the arms of a woman with a foul breath and a", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0386.jp2"}, "385": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD\\n385\\ncrime to permit it to be nourished by a foster mother\\nwhose habits are not chaste and self-respecting.\\nThe best artificial milk seems to be cream reduced\\nand sweetened with sugar and milk.\\nNo exact rule can be given for this reduction, most\\nmothers leave it too rich and the child s stomach is soon\\nout of order in consequence.\\nGeneral Rules for Feeding\\nAge\\nFirst week\\n1 to 6 weeks\\n6 to 12 weeks and possibly\\nto 5th or 6th month\\nAt 6 months\\nAt 10 months\\nIntervals of\\nFeeding\\n2 hours\\n2% hours\\n3 hours\\n3 hours\\n3 hours\\nAverage Amount at\\nEach Feeding\\n1 ounce\\n1% to 2 ounces\\n3 to 4 ounces\\n6 ounces\\n8 ounces\\nAverage Amount\\nIN 24 Hours\\n10 ounces\\n12 to 16 ouncfes\\n18 to 24 ounces\\n36 ounces\\n40 ounces\\nThe best plan is to let new milk stand from five to\\nsix hours.\\nTake off from the top this is what is meant by the\\ntop milk. Dilute the top milk one half with hot water,\\nwhich should be filtered to each pint add one teaspoonful\\nof sugar of milk, and one grain of phosphate of lime.\\nMicroscopical examination has proved that many of the\\ninfant s prepared foods contain too much starch and too\\nlittle gluten to make them fit for babies, for children have\\nnot enough saliva to convert starch into sugar.\\nThe celebrated Dr. Playfair declares that the mor-\\ntality following artificial feeding in babies may usually\\nbe traced to unsuitable food, especially among the poorer", "height": "4356", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0387.jp2"}, "386": {"fulltext": "380 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nclasses who imagine that milk alone is insufficient, and\\nresort to arrowroot or cornstarch which do not digest\\nand create intestinal derangements.\\nBarley, on the contrary, contains phosphates which are\\nnecessary to digestion, and the addition of barley water\\nmay early be made.\\nThe following schedule of diet is an excellent one for\\nbabies brought up by hand:\\nDiet for Babies Brought up by Hand\\nfirst week\\nCream 2 teaspoonfuls.\\nWhey 3 teaspoonfuls.\\nWater (hot) 3 teaspoonfuls.\\nMilk sugar teaspoonful.\\nFor each feeding to be given every two hours from 5 a.m. to\\n11 P.M., and in some cases once or twice a night; amounting to twelve\\nfluid ounces of food per diem.\\nFROM SECOND TO SIXTH WEEK\\nMilk 1 tablespoonful.\\nCream 2 teaspoonfuls.\\nMilk sugar teaspoonful.\\nWater 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nFor one portion; to be given every two hours from 5 A. M. to 11\\nP.M.; amounting to seventeen fluid ounces of food per diem.\\nFROM SIXTH WEEK TO END OF SECOND MONTH\\nMilk 2^ tablespoonfuls.\\nCream 1 tablespoonful.\\nMilk sugar J teaspoonful.\\nWater 2^ tablespoonfuls.\\nFor each feeding to be given every two hours amounting to\\nthirty fluid ounces per diem.", "height": "4364", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0388.jp2"}, "387": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 387\\nFROM BEGINNING OF THIRD MONTH TO SIXTH MONTH\\nMilk 5 tablespoonfuls,\\nCream 1 tablespoonful,\\nMilk sugar 1 teaspoonful.\\nWater 2 tablespoonfuls,\\nFor each feeding to be giv^n every two and a half hours, or\\nthirty-two fluid ounces per diem.\\nDURING SIXTH MONTH\\nSix meals daily, from 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. Morning and midday\\nbottles, each\\nMilk 9 tablespoonfuls.\\nCream 1 tablespoonful.\\nMellin s Food 1 teaspoonful.\\nHot water 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nDissolve the Mellin s Food in hot water and stir into the pre-\\nviously mixed milk and cream.\\nOther bottles, each:\\nMilk 9 tablespoonfuls.\\nCream 1 tablespoonful.\\nMilk sugar 1 teaspoonful.\\nWater 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nThis will all equal thirty-six fluid ounces of food in a day.\\nDuring the seventh month increase the supply of Mellin s Food\\nto two teaspoonfuls, and give three times daily.\\nDuring eighth and ninth months give five meals daily. The\\nfirst meal, at 7 a. m. should consist of\\nMilk 13 tablespoonfuls.\\nCream 1 tablespoonful.\\nMilk sugar 1 teaspoonful.\\nWater 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nSecond meal at 10 30 a. m., should consist of milk, cream and\\nwater in the same proportion, with one tablespoonful of Mellin s Food.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0389.jp2"}, "388": {"fulltext": "388 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThird meal at 2 p. m., same as second.\\nFourth meal at 6 p. ,m., same as second.\\nFifth meal at 10 p. m., same as first.\\nThis gives forty fluid ounces of food per diem.\\nTENTH AND ELEVENTH MONTHS\\nFirst meal at 7 a. m., to consist of:\\nMilk .17 tablespoonfuls.\\nCream 1 tablespoonful.\\nMellin s Food 1 tablespoonful.\\nWater 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nSecond meal at 10 30 a. m. should consist of a breakfast-cupful of\\nwarm milk.\\nThird meal at 2 p. m. should consist of the yolk of an egg lightly\\nboiled, with stale bread crumbs.\\nFourth meal at 6 P. m., same as first.\\nFifth meal at 10 P. m., same as second.\\nOn alternate days the third meal may consist of a teacupful of\\nbeef tea containing a few stale bread crumbs. Or mutton, chicken or\\nveal broth may be used to vary with the beef tea.", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0390.jp2"}, "389": {"fulltext": "i C ILBERT S\\nCHAPTER XLV\\nMOTHER AND CHILD Concluded\\nWe are governed with our mother s spirits. Julius Caesar.\\nBABY should be weaned at the end of the\\nfirst year unless it is very ill from tooth\\ncatting or the time occurs during very hot\\nweather, when it is better to defer weaning\\nuntil the teeth have come or the weather\\nis cooler.\\nMilk as it exists in the udder of a\\nhealthy cow is free from any poisonous or dangerous\\nsubstance but during milking and subsequent handling it\\nacquires particles of manure and dirt which may set up\\na fermentation or other injurious change.\\nSterilization destroys the activity and possibility for\\nharm of these organic impurities.\\nIn order to sterilize the milk it is necessary to submit\\nit to an intense heat under pressure. Very simple imple-\\n(389)", "height": "4332", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0391.jp2"}, "390": {"fulltext": "390 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nments may be had at a small cost by the aid of which\\nmothers who are away from cities and towns where ster-\\nilized milk is so easily procured nowadays can superin-\\ntend the process perfectly and at present the nursery\\nsterilizer happily bids fair to be as common in households\\nwhere there are little children, as the sewing machine or\\nclothes wringer.\\nThe best sterilizer of simple apparatus is Arnold s.\\nBathing and Dressing the Baby\\nBathing the baby has always been a source of much\\ninterest in most households. Scarcely any other rite con-\\nnected with His Majesty is as much enjoyed and appreci-\\nated as his bath. And perhaps there is one mother in\\nten who knows how to give the bath properly. Of course\\nthe bath is a daily performance.\\nShe who has studied carefully this morning ceremony,\\nbefore the bath begins, gathers all the articles which will\\nbe needed a low table on which the small tub reposes\\npure hygienic soap, two wash cloths, needle, linen thread,\\nscissors, vaseline, clean clothing, small thermometer, etc.\\nThe temperature of the room must register about 70\\ndegrees, Fahr., and the bath should be always at 98 degrees.\\nThese are two things which she is particularly careful to\\nobserve.\\nBaby is disrobed and placed in the nurse s or mother s\\nlap on a warm flannel apron which she wears. He must\\nbe covered well with part of the flannel to prevent expo-\\nsure^ while mamma lathers his little body thoroughly with", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0392.jp2"}, "391": {"fulltext": "i 1\\n(S\\nE\\n_i\\nO\\nliJ\\ncc\\na.\\nO\\no\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2-n\\n--J", "height": "4348", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0393.jp2"}, "392": {"fulltext": "^^y^^\\nfe.^-\\nA PAIR OF OUTSTANDING EARS AND A PUG NOSE\\nA LITTLE PUG NOSE IS VERY MUCH LIKE WAX OR PUTTY; YOU CAN GENTLY PRESS A PUG\\nINTO A PRETTY LITTLE GREEK\\nA BABY S OUTSTANDING EARS AND A PUG NOSE\\n(392)", "height": "4380", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0394.jp2"}, "393": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 393\\na dripping, soapy cloth. After he is well soaped he is\\nplunged up to his neck in a tub of clean, warm water,\\nanother cloth is substituted for the soapy one, and a good\\nrinsing is given him. Before the water has had time to\\nbecome chilled the baby is lifted out of the tub and\\nwrapped from crown to toe in a warm flannel blanket\\nwhich has a soft linen towel for its lining. Then he is\\ngently patted (not rubbed) until every vestige of moisture\\ndisappears.\\nGreat care must be devoted to dressing baby. He must\\nwear the plainest clothing, and its thickness must be\\nevenly distributed, so that no part of his body will be-\\ncome overheated. Even the charming, little, silk bootees\\nare tabooed by the wise mother and long, woolen stock-\\nings substituted, or baby revels in barefooted freedom.\\nThe old-fashioned method of pinning a young child s\\nclothes, or even fastening them with tapes, has been aban-\\ndoned, and the trained nursemaid now sews baby into his\\ngarments. Pins make cruel indentions on the delicate\\nskin, and tapes are apt to become hard and knotted.\\nIt is important to know just how to carry a baby.\\nImproper handling may result in lifelong invalidism for\\nthe child. It would seem in these enlightened days that\\nignorance is a poor excuse for unwise treatment of babies,\\nyet it is quite common to see a young matron carrying or\\nallowing her baby to be carried in a manner which causes\\npain to the average on-looker.\\nNever, when carrying a child, or at any other time,\\nallow it to bear the weight of its own head. The head\\nmust be supported, for it is liable to fall over with a jerk", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0395.jp2"}, "394": {"fulltext": "394 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nand dislocate the neck. The head and shoulder blades\\nshould be supported with one hand, while the other grasps\\nthe child s feet, or end of his clothing. This forms a per-\\nfect hammock and allows no undue pressure on the deli-\\ncate organs of his body. Never grasp a baby about the\\nwaist, as the pressure, no matter how slight, is harmful.\\nIt is considered unwise to rock a child to sleep. He is\\nplaced in his little, white, iron crib, roomy and firm, a\\nmosquito netting keeps away the flies, and he is left to\\nfall asleep. The old-fashioned cradle, with its narrow,\\nwooden walls and soft mattresses of unhygienic feathers,\\nis a great contrast to the woven wire crib of to-day, and\\ncertainly the crib is an improvement.\\nA great doctor once remarked that bad ventilation de-\\nforms more children and destroys more health than acci-\\ndent or plague. Baby should never be put to sleep in\\nbed or perambulator with the head under the bed clothing,\\nto inhale the air already breathed and further contami-\\nnated by exhalations from the skin. As well give the\\nlittle one to drink the water first used for a bath.\\nPowder no longer has a place in the baby s toilet. It\\ndries and cuts the delicate skin and is actually a torture\\nwhen applied to the chapped places, whereas vaseline or\\ncold cream are healing and nourish the cuticle. I made\\nthe discovery when caring for my first baby that the more\\npowder I put upon her tender little body the redder and\\nsorer the chafed spots were when the powder was washed\\naway, so I tried something I thought would be healing.\\nIt happened to be vaseline, and proved entirely successful.\\nI never allowed powder to be used with my other children.", "height": "4364", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0396.jp2"}, "395": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 395\\nIn dressing an infant great care should be taken not\\nto lift or twist his little body. It should be rolled from\\nside to side as need be, when putting on the garments,\\nbut never lifted or turned.\\nAlthough the dietary suggested for babies brought\\nup by hand has been greatly improved of late years by\\nthe various systems for securing pure milk and foods con-\\ntaining the proper amount of gluten, it is many times not\\nthe easiest thing in the world to find which one of these\\nbest suits the idiosyncracies of your baby s stomach. For\\nthis reason the bottle-fed baby may not gain as rapidly\\nas the one that is nursed for the first two or three months.\\nAfter that the gain should be quite as regular. By the\\ntime the bottle-fed baby is a year old he has a decided\\nadvantage of his nursing friend, that about this time\\nthe entire household is busy weaning. Bottle-fed baby\\nis tucked down in his crib with his favorite, nice, warm\\ntipple on the pillow beside him, quietly laughing in his\\nsleeve at the baby that has to go through the process of\\nbeing weaned.\\nIt is claimed, and justly, too, that the old-time tube\\nnursing bottle is responsible for the deaths of thousands\\nof infants. No matter how careful one may be, these\\ntubes and arrangements cannot be kept perfectly sweet\\nand pure. The model nursing bottle has a plain, well-\\nfitting nipple with a very small hole. It is better to buy\\nthem without holes and puncture with a fine needle,\\nheated. If the bottle be held so that the neck is always\\nfull of milk, air cannot be sucked into the stomach.", "height": "4348", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0397.jp2"}, "396": {"fulltext": "396 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nBABY S Accomplishments\\nAt four months baby should hold up his head at\\nfive months he should have doubled his weight; at seven\\nmonths he should sit alone at between nine and ten\\nmonths old he should bear his weight on his feet, and\\nat twelve months give you a proud little grin when you\\nlet go his hands, hold one finger up to him and say\\nNow, all alone. When he is fourteen or fifteen months\\nold he will walk all over the room and keep you busy\\nseeing that he does not take a header out of bed or\\ndown stairs. But never urge your baby to walk. He will\\ndo it of his own accord as soon as his bones and muscles\\nare strong enough.\\nLet baby sleep in his little carriage out of doors if he\\nwants to. It is not true that a child takes cold more\\neasily when asleep on the contrary, he will grow stronger\\nand be less liable to take cold.\\nIn the summer and early autumn baby may be out of\\ndoors almost any time between seven o clock in the\\nmorning and sunset. In the winter, modified somewhat by\\nclimate, only between ten and eleven o clock in the morn-\\ning and between two and three o clock in the afternoon.\\nSee that the wind does not blow directly in his face, that\\nhis feet are properly covered and warm and discharge the\\nnursery maid on the spot who lets the sun shine down\\ninto your baby s eyes, whether he is asleep or awake.\\nThat babies and little children are troubled with weak\\neyes is a great source of uneasiness to young mothers.\\nFrequently the fault is their own. A white parasol may\\nbe pretty, but its effect on the baby s eyes is alarming.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0398.jp2"}, "397": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 397\\nIn choosing a parasol cover be careful that whatever color\\nthe outside may be, the inside must be dark preferably\\ngreen. If baby is not made the victim of a white cover\\nit is probable that his eyes will not trouble him.\\nA BABY S Weight and Measurements\\nNothing tells so accurately how the baby is thriving\\nas its gain in weight from week to week. Scientific\\nmen have given such thorough study to the bottle-fed\\nbaby that this tiny development of our modern civiliza-\\ntion now stands almost as good a chance as his mother s\\nmilk competitor in the matter of adding a desirable num-\\nber of ounces from week to week to his weight.\\nAt birth the average boy baby weighs 7^ pounds is 20^\\ninches high chest 13^ inches head 14 inches. Girls\\nweigh about a pound less. They are about the same\\nheight. At one year a baby should weigh about twenty\\nand a half pounds, at two, twenty-six and a half, at three,\\nthirty-one, at four, thirty-five, at five, forty-one.\\nDuring the first six months weigh your baby (with-\\nout clothes) every week. During the next six months, at\\nleast every two weeks. At first baby will probably lose\\nfrom four to eight ounces, after which he should steadily\\ngain from four to eight ounces a week up to the time he\\nis six months old. Now baby will begin the troublesome\\njob of cutting his teeth, which will cut his gaining in two\\nin the middle. But in spite of teeth he should take on\\nfrom two to four ounces of weight each week. If he\\ndoes not do this there is something wrong with his food,\\nhis airings or bathings.", "height": "4356", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0399.jp2"}, "398": {"fulltext": "398 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nBABY S Good Looks\\nWe are all of us prone to discourse on the beauties\\nof childhood, and truly there is nothing more charming\\nthan the features of lovely infancy.\\nWe recall instantly the little child with eyes so gen-\\ntle, so fearless and affectionate, and that reflect our every\\nemotion. We smile at the dimpled faces, the chubby lit-\\ntle forms of the babies whom we know, but occasionally\\nwe see a little child who is a positive distortion of in-\\nfancy, and perhaps we wonder only that babyhood can\\nbe so unattractive.\\nI happen to know a little child may be physically\\ntrained into great beauty, even with the most meager\\nequipment, and every time I see a little tot with hideously\\noutstanding ears, I long to reach its mother and beg her\\nto make sightly features of these almost monstrous and\\nunnecessary deformities.\\nThere is no sense in permitting a child to grow up\\nwith aural appenda looking like oyster shells rudely at-\\ntached to the sides of the head.\\nNothing destroys the symmetry of the head as these\\noutstanding and distorted ears.\\nNo girl can grow up to be a beautiful maiden, no boy\\ncan ever be at his best, whose ears are literally de-\\nformities.\\nBeginning with the day of its birth a baby s ears\\nshould receive attention. If the nurse understand her\\nprofession, she will take care always to see that the\\nlittle ear is folded back against the side of the head,", "height": "4384", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0400.jp2"}, "399": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0096\u00a0^IWt X^", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0401.jp2"}, "400": {"fulltext": "(400)\\nA PERFECTLY GROOMED BABY", "height": "4364", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0402.jp2"}, "401": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 401\\nwhen the infant reclines upon one side. When the baby\\nlies upon its back she will see that even the softest\\npillow does not press the ear out from the side of the\\nhead.\\nSuch care as this will always result in a prettily\\nformed ear lying close to the head, as nature intended.\\nWhere the child has been neglected in infancy it takes\\nmore time, and it takes more skill to coax the ear into\\nthe habit of lying close to the head.\\nFor this purpose the skeleton earcap was devised\\nabout fifteen years ago, and is in almost universal use in\\nEngland.\\nThis little cap may be purchased for a trifle, or an\\ningenious mother may make one of straps of linen tape\\nheld together by bits of elastic tape which allows the\\nnecessary flexibility.\\nIt is conceded that a straight nose comes nearer to\\nthe accepted standard of beauty than any other, and a\\nflat pug nose is certainly very ugly. If mothers and\\nnurses will but take heed, there need be no pug-nosed\\nchildren.\\nIt is a curious fact, but one which will be corrobo-\\nrated by all who pay attention to the matter, that persons\\nwith upturned noses invariably use their handkerchiefs\\nwith an upward flourish, whenever they have occasion to\\nuse them at all, and that those with turned down noses\\ncultivate the very opposite manner of handkerchief eti-\\nquette. Now nothing can be much uglier than the first\\nmentioned habit, also nothing so potent in helping the\\npug to do its worst.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0403.jp2"}, "402": {"fulltext": "402 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nNow the nose may be really modeled if the baby to\\nwhom it belongs is caught early enough.\\nA baby s nose is very much like a bit of putty. It\\nhas no bone, and it will respond to pressure, daily applied\\nof a very wise and knowing thumb and forefinger.\\nThere is not a mother in the universe who cannot make\\na nice, straight, little nose out of the most hopeless baby\\npug if she will several times a day, by the means of the\\nthumb and forefinger, press the diminutive organ into the\\nshape it should have.\\nThe baby whose picture has been used to illustrate\\nthis article had the slimmest excuse for a nose I have\\never seen, but I produced on this unhappy infant s coun-\\ntenance in the course of two years, and that was longer\\nthan it usually takes, a very respectable, nice, little nose.\\nFrequently I see a child with a one-sided, lumpy head,\\nand I know that I have before me a poor little creature\\nwho has been robbed of his birthright, physical sym-\\nmetry.\\nMany infants present themselves to a more or less\\nadmiring family on the occasion of their first appearance,\\nwith distressingly distorted and bumpy heads. There are\\nphysical reasons for these eccentric looking little pates,\\nand Nature will assert her authority without other assist-\\nance in most cases. Occasionally the little head fails to\\nacquire a proper roundness, and then the hands of the\\nmother or nurse should assist in smoothing away the\\nunnatural and disfiguring lumps.\\nWhere the head is long and narrow and one-sided, a\\ngentle pressure of the hands with a movement from the", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0404.jp2"}, "403": {"fulltext": "MOTHER AND CHILD 403\\nchin to the top of the head will often repair this distor-\\ntion in a few weeks time.\\nThe pressure should be firm, never hard, and never\\npainful to the infant.\\nThe human countenance is of very flexible material and\\nlittle children who are allowed to make grimaces very\\nsoon show the effect of facial lines that later on destroy\\nthe harmony and beauty of the countenance.\\nOne cannot begin too early to oppose and counteract\\nall such habits in children. (See also Chapter XXV.)\\nSo far as the mouth is concerned the form of this feat-\\nure depends greatly upon the care bestowed upon the teeth\\nin babyhood. It is never too soon to begin to take care\\nof a child s mouth, and it is well for mothers to under-\\nstand that a baby s teeth require brushing and rinsing^\\nand were never intended to be removed by decay.\\nA child should shed its first baby teeth at about the\\neighth year, and if they have been properly cared for\\nthese little teeth should drop out without a defective\\nspeck on any of them.\\nIf the early teeth are looked after they will serve\\nuntil the jaws are sufficiently grown and strong to pro-\\nduce teeth capable of doing service for a lifetime, and\\nthese teeth will come in regular and beautiful, unless\\nthere is some inherited defect either in the formation of\\nthe jaw, or the failure of some of the chemical con-\\nstituents.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 21", "height": "4348", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0405.jp2"}, "404": {"fulltext": "404 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nTREATMENT FOR SCALD HEAD\\nWash the little head each night before bedtime with a pure\\nsoap, rinse and dry it with a soft towel, then apply the pomade\\nmade as follows\\nResorcin 4 grains.\\nLanolin 8 grains.\\nVaseline 8 grains.\\nLet the ointment remain on all night, wash it away in the morn-\\ning with pure soap and repeat the application of the unguent if neces-\\nsary. Usually it suffices to anoint the head all night only.\\nIf the baby be troubled with what is called prickly\\nheat, perhaps you dress him too warmly. Try loosen-\\ning his clothing and also making it a trifle lighter. Dis-\\nsolve a small teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in his\\nbath. This is excellent. You might also bathe the affected\\nparts with diluted witch hazel, using a soft linen cloth or\\nvelvet sponge.", "height": "4360", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0406.jp2"}, "405": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XLVI\\nHOW TO READ CHARACTER FROM\\nTHE FEATURES\\nLove first learned in a lady s eyes. Love s Labor Lost\\nKNOW it is the custom of many unthinking persons\\nto jest at the assumption, so called, of the physiog-\\nnomist. I have a thousand and one times been\\nlaughed to scorn when I have declared that a cer-\\ntain man or woman was not to be trusted because\\nhe or she had deceitful eyes and a retreating chin,\\nand I have frequently heard the unbelievers de-\\nclare that such or such a horse was a wicked-looking\\nbeast, or a good-tempered looking one.\\nNo man alive who ever dealt in dogs but believes the\\nsigns of ugliness in their muzzles will be carried out in\\ntheir behavior. If a brute an unthinking, soulless brute\\nwill in his actions bear out the facial signs for ugliness\\nor good temper, why not a man or a woman?\\n(405)", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0407.jp2"}, "406": {"fulltext": "406 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWhen you judge a woman s or even a man s character\\nit is not fair to condemn or exalt the subject because one\\nfeature is bad or another beautiful. The face as a whole\\nmust be considered. For example, a receding forehead is\\na facial sign for mental weakness, but a strong chin will\\nredeem the receding brow.\\nThere are certain well-defined types of features that\\ninfallibly stand for well-recognized characteristics. When\\na man selects a wife he always, unless the matter be\\npurely one of finance, is under the impression that she\\nhas a good face.\\nThe face of a good woman need not be always the\\nface of a beauty. It must, however, have one or two of\\nthe strong signs of integrity and loyalty.\\nThe Mouth\\nFirst of all, beware of the rosebud mouth the mouth\\nthat is so tiny; the mouth that is formed after the good\\nold patterns of the ancients, who gave their Yenuses the\\nmouths that were of the rosebud order, and fit only for\\nthe fickle devotees of an inconstant goddess. Women with\\nrosebud mouths are usually vain, frivolous and untruthful.\\nOn the other hand, the larger mouth, with full, well-\\nproportioned lips, which when closed form almost a hori-\\nzontal line with the corners, neither elevated nor de-\\npressed, is the indication of truthfulness, loyalty, firmness\\nand justice. This is the mouth for a man to tie to.\\nThe conceited mouth has a short upper lip. When you\\nsee such a mouth you may make up your mind that the", "height": "4384", "width": "2880", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0408.jp2"}, "407": {"fulltext": "MARY ANDERSON NAVARRO S LITTLE SON\\n(4(J7)", "height": "4364", "width": "2804", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0409.jp2"}, "408": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4384", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0410.jp2"}, "409": {"fulltext": "HOW TO READ CHARACTER 409\\nsurest way to gain the good will of its possessor is to\\nflatter her.\\nThe gossip s mouth is wide, with downward curves at\\nthe corners. It is found on the faces of persons who tell\\nyou disagreeable things about your common acquaintances,\\nas well as of your immediate family. Women .with gos-\\nsiping lines will neglect every duty in life for the sake of\\nsetting out with a fresh budget of scandal.\\nThe Teeth\\nA woman with fairly harmonious features and a double\\nset of perfect, regular and pearl-white teeth freely and\\nfrankly displayed in laughing, is fairly certain to be a\\ncreature of remarkable mental balance.\\nSuch teeth accompany unusual endowments, the chief\\ndrawback in the make-up of the subject, particularly if she\\nhave the smiling habit, being a lack of firmness.\\nWomen of tremendous resolution, concentration and\\nfixity of purpose have a habit of closing the lips and\\nshowing very little of the teeth, even when they smile.\\nWhen you see a pretty girl with rather short, square\\nteeth which have wide spaces between them, set her down as\\nfickle, for these are the teeth of constitutional inconstancy.\\nGirls with long, narrow teeth are rarely strong phys-\\nically. Consumptives who have inherited pulmonary\\ntroubles almost always have these long, narrow, frail\\nteeth. When the upper teeth and jaw noticeably project\\nover the lower the indications are for a rather elementary\\nmind and an uncertain temper.", "height": "4348", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0411.jp2"}, "410": {"fulltext": "410 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWomen with these teeth are not, properly speaking,\\nill-tempered. They are generous and often fundamentally\\ngood-natured, but once they are roused well, it is wise\\nto give them the floor and to maintain a discreet silence.\\nIrregular teeth that look like tangled kernels of an\\near of corn are the index of a badly balanced nature.\\nWhen you see a girl whose teeth naturally curve from\\nthe gum margin in toward the mouth you can wager\\nanything you like she is prudent about money matters.\\nWomen with uneven teeth, those which project or\\nrecede noticeably, are uneven in disposition also, and more\\ndeveloped in the passions than intellectually. Of course\\nthe form of the circle of the teeth must naturally repeat\\nthe form of the jawbone, and the girl with a generous\\nmouth, which her family calls big, may console herself by\\nthe knowledge that, according to face readers, a broad\\nmouth, full of white, even, normal-sized teeth, with jaws\\nthat meet exactly or nearly so, surely betokens a mind\\nwith a broad grasp and a generous, even temper, but\\nrather careless nature.\\nThe girl with the happy-go-lucky teeth exemplifies this\\ntype. She is the girl who gets taken in and imposed\\nupon right and left, but she smiles and forgives and never\\nlearns that the world is hard and selfish, no matter how\\nlong she lives.\\nThe Chin\\nA woman s chin is also a telltale feature. People with\\nsmall, weak, receding chins rarely have much will power.\\nThis type is also called treacherous. Its possessor would", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0412.jp2"}, "411": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0080\u00a2^ooocoooo*", "height": "4340", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0413.jp2"}, "412": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4364", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0414.jp2"}, "413": {"fulltext": "HOW TO READ CHARACTER 413\\nbe deceitful and disloyal because she would not have the\\nstrength of will to be anything else.\\nA round and rather full, well-formed chin denotes a\\nsweet, yielding temper.\\nA pointed, projecting chin betokens avarice. When\\nthe subject has also a long, hooked nose you have two of\\nthe characteristically facial signs of the miser.\\nA square chin of good size, with an indentation in the\\ncenter, is the accompaniment of a firm, capable nature.\\nIts owner will not, perhaps, be quite so gentle as the girl\\nwith the round chin, but other things being equal, she\\nwill be more of a helpmeet.\\nThe Nose\\nPersonally I am much impressed by the indications of\\nthe nose. For example, the nose of the conqueror, which\\nis the aquiline, is found upon the faces of most of the\\ngreat warriors. Napoleon had such a nose; so had Wel-\\nlington.\\nThe Greek nose, which forms a straight line from base\\nto tip, is considered the perfect nose. It indicates a gen-\\ntle, peaceable nature, with a love of the beautiful of the\\narts and of home. The Greek nose does not belong to\\nthe most forcible type of womanhood, but Greek-nosed\\nwomen rarely are quarrelsome, and with a good, moder-\\nately large mouth, a Greek-nosed woman will usually prove\\na treasure.\\nAlas for the snubs, for they are usually found upon\\nthe faces of cruel women. I do not refer to the nez", "height": "4356", "width": "2808", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0415.jp2"}, "414": {"fulltext": "414 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nretrousse, which is just tip-tilted enough to be saucy, but\\nto the real snub which is flattened upon the face.\\nLook out for the snub nose every time, but if you\\nhappen to strike it in conjunction with a small rosebud\\nmouth, round nearsighted eyes and tiny shell-like ears,\\nflee for your life, for you have encountered the incarna-\\ntion of perfidy and cold, treacherous cruelty.\\nThe Roman nose is a good one. It is called the nose\\nof wealth, and in its exaggerated forms it indicates a tend-\\nency to avarice. If you want a prudent wife, one who\\nwill be saving and thrifty, select the girl whose nose has\\na little hump on it. She will have more at the end of\\ntwenty years, though she started out empty-handed.\\nThe Eye\\nNo feature of the face is more self-assertive than the\\neye.\\nLarge, round, wide-open eyes are a sign of amiability\\nand gentleness in young girls, but always indicate a very\\nchildlike and undeveloped character. When these eyes\\nare clear and luminous it is a sign of great trustfulness.\\nThese women remain childlike always or if they\\ngrow worldly wise and suspicious their eyes narrow per-\\nceptibly during the process.\\nProtruding eyes are a sure sign of a good memory, so\\nit will be well for the summer man who is not in ear-\\nnest not to commit himself. Just consider that the girl\\nwith the slightly bulging orbs is usually very clever\\nmentally, capable of strong emotions and possessed of a", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0416.jp2"}, "415": {"fulltext": "HOW TO READ CHARACTER 415\\nmemory that makes her a terror to the youth who desires\\nto be forgotten.\\nThe girl with deep-seated eyes is rarely to be found\\nwith the merry, laughing throng of mischief-loving young\\nwomen that haunt the hotel piazzas of the watering\\nplaces. When she is discovered she is often alone with\\nher thoughts, which are somber frequently, as her com-\\npanions. She is introspective, and the man who becomes\\nher slave will have to answer an entire series of ques-\\ntions upon the good, the true and the beautiful to say\\nnothing of the muchness of the much and the greatness\\nof the small. The maid with the deep-set eyes is in dead\\nearnest. She takes herself very hard. There is no non-\\nsense about her. Be warned in time.\\nThe long, narrow. Oriental-eyed girl is a variation of\\nthe summer girl, who is also to be handled as a parcel\\nmarked With care; glass. She is charming and her\\ntimid, oblique, dreamy but watchful expression means\\neverything on the list but that condition of inertia that\\ncomes before dreams with ordinary mortals.\\nThe long-eyed girl is suspicious she is charming, but\\noh! she is jealous, and I advise her swain to give her no\\ncause to distrust him, else she will make life such a bur-\\nden as it hath not entered into the joyous soul of the in-\\nexperienced summer youth to conceive of.\\nThe eye of the coquette scarcely needs description. It\\nis in evidence every moment of the day and every second\\nof the first half of the night, wherever men and women\\ncongregate. It may be round or long, wide or narrow.\\nIt is never tranquil. Its possessor is making eyes every", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0417.jp2"}, "416": {"fulltext": "416 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nmoment of her life. She may make them to your un-\\ndoing. You may love her with all the strength of your\\nbeing, but you will be very foolish if you trust her. She\\ngives a shy glance and looks down.\\nBeware, beware She is fooling thee\\nThe Eyebrows\\nA woman s eyebrows indicate sentimentality when they\\nare narrow and drop at the outward corners. They are\\nhumorous when they are arched toward the extremity,\\ncredulous when the arch is nearer the nose, and suspicious\\nor even malicious when they are very thick, heavy and\\nmeet at the nose.\\nThe Ear\\nThe ear is a significant feature and a great telltale.\\nThe aesthetic ear is small and shell-like, beautifully chis-\\neled. A flabby, long, narrow ear is a sign of humility\\nand weakness. On the other hand, the steadfast, coura-\\ngeous ear is of medium size, oval in shape, and well defined\\nin its convolutions. The lobe is detached and the ear is\\nset moderately low upon the head. The gossip s ear is\\nlarge, is usually strongly curved at the upper part and\\nis set rather low upon the head.\\nBy these signs, not taken separately, but collectively,\\nbalancing a weak point by the strength of a powerful\\nfeature, you cannot fail to detect the characteristics of\\nyour own or some one else s sweetheart,", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0418.jp2"}, "417": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0080\u009ejoo?\\nO ifOO^^ OC^ Q\\nCHAPTER XLVIl\\nEMACIATION\\nI am but a shado-w. Shakespeare.\\nEMiNiNE beauty is not compatible with either\\nextreme stoutness or emaciation. The fat\\nwoman is repellent because all the contours\\nof beauty are gone the hollow-cheeked, an-\\ngular, flat-chested woman cannot be really\\nphysically lovely either, but the grossness of\\nobesity is certainly more to be deplored than\\nthe cadaverous condition of emaciation. The path which\\nleads to flesh is one of roses compared to the road which\\nthe corpulent must tread, as you will see. There are a\\nnumber of causes of emaciation sometimes the tendency\\nis inherited, and if there be a chronic organic disease, such\\nas consumption, or an inherited scrofulous disease, the\\ndirections I have to give can only avail to a certain\\npoint; but for the ordinary, everyday too thin woman\\n(417)", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0419.jp2"}, "418": {"fulltext": "418 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthere is a certain and sure cure. First of all, plenty of\\nfresh air, for, paradoxical as it may appear, the very rule\\nby which fat women are to burn up their superfluous\\nadipose tissue, is the method by which the thin ones must\\nincrease their muscular strength and put themselves in a\\ncondition to assimilate the food which is to produce the\\nfat. Let all the thin women obey the following rules,\\nand unless they have some chronic ailment, I will stake\\nmy reputation on the result\\nHelpful Suggestions\\nOn arising or while you are still in bed, if convenient,\\ndrink a glass of milk. Practice with your dumb-bells for\\nnot more than five minutes, and dress leisurely, don t al-\\nlow yourself to get nervous no one ever gains any time\\nby it, and many women have absolutely chiseled lines\\ninto their faces in the nervous contractions of the mus-\\ncles about the brow, eyes and mouth from too violent\\nhustling. It is just as important that a thin woman\\nshould wear her clothing loose as for a fat woman not\\nto draw herself into an inadequate compass. Have your\\nclothing not only loose, but also light in weight, with lots\\nof spare space about the chest and shoulders.\\nFor breakfast, if you are dependent upon your coffee,\\ndrink it with as much cream or milk and sugar as you\\ncan without its being distasteful to you; if you can do\\nso without too much sacrifice (for I know how most\\nwomen depend on their morning coffee) substitute cocoa\\nor chocolate. Make your first meal of oatmeal or any", "height": "4364", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0420.jp2"}, "419": {"fulltext": "EMACIATION 419\\nother palatable cereal, baked potatoes with butter and\\ncream, bread and butter, fruit, anything containing starch\\nor sugar. You are to avoid meats as much as possible\\na bit of juicy steak or a broiled chop will not hurt you,\\nbut it will not bring you either fat or weight. Many\\nvery thin people are troubled with dyspepsia, and, of\\ncourse, if your food is not properly digested it cannot\\nmake blood or muscle. Dyspepsia is a frequent cause of\\nemaciation.\\nWhen Nerves are Irritable\\nFor nervous dyspepsia with a tendency to hysteria,\\nfrom which many emaciated women suffer, take any one\\nof the well-indorsed liquid peptonoids according to direc-\\ntion. Your druggist will be able to supply you. And\\nfor the indigestion which causes red face after eating or\\nblotches on the face, the following\\nTincture of nux vomica, five drops in water before each meal.\\nSubgallate of bismuth, five drops after each meal.\\nIf your food trouble you, so that it will not always re-\\nmain in your stomach, but produces faintness and retch-\\ning, eat a little at a time and eat often. Try for this form\\nof dyspepsia the following\\nAromatic spirits of ammonia, one teaspoonful in a wineglass of\\nwater half an hour before eating, three times daily.\\nThe digestive organs may be weakened by not giving\\nthem enough to do, quite as effectively as by overworking\\nthem. Many very thin people are very quick and nervous", "height": "4348", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0421.jp2"}, "420": {"fulltext": "420 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nin their movements they are a,lways in haste. Try to\\ncultivate laziness and eat as slowly as possible. Sugar is\\nthe most effective of all fatteners. So you may indulge\\nyour liking for sweets if it exist, and if not you must try\\nto form a taste for food containing sugar.\\nAfter your breakfast get ready for a nice, long walk;\\nif it be a possible thing let your companion be a bright\\nand cheerful creature, or a merry little child, for low\\nspirits are thieves lying in wait to ruin your digestion, to\\ncarve lines and wrinkles in your face and to upset my\\nbest endeavors to make you plump and pretty. Try to\\nrecollect that the old saw Laugh and grow fat was like\\nall the other proverbs founded on a truism. It is trite but\\nnone the less a fact, that laughter will aid digestion and\\nassimilation of food and induce the sort of fatigue we are\\nstriving for which is followed by a delicious hour or more\\nof tissue-repairing indolence. With your clothing loose,\\nyour feet shod in comfortable, flat-heeled shoes, you start\\nforth on your promenade which may properly be called a\\nconstitutional. Throw your shoulders back, close your\\nmouth and take as long and deep breaths as possible.\\nKeep your head up, your chin well forward, and if you\\nwalk where it will not attract too much attention, do so\\nwith your hands clasped behind your back. I should like\\nyou for your personal satisfaction to get weighed and have\\nyour chest measured before entering upon the fat-producing\\nregime. It will be most interesting to you to watch your\\nprogress by the infallible tests of weight and measure-\\nments. Do not walk until you are tired and nervous and\\nirritable an hour to commence with is quite suflBcient.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0422.jp2"}, "421": {"fulltext": "EMACIATION 421\\nNow, if you are a woman of leisure, take a warm bath\\non your return, and after it anoint the entire body with\\nthe following skin food:\\nCATHAY SKIN FOOD\\nMelt together over a warm bath.\\nWhite wax 2 drachms.\\nSpermaceti 2 drachms.\\nLanolin 2 ounces.\\nOil of sweet almonds 4 ounces.\\nBalsam of Mecca 3 drachms.\\nOil of ro es attar .10 drops.\\nThis skin food will nourish the impoverished cuticle.\\nRub it in so you are not left in a greasy condition and\\nthen go to your room and lie down for a rest of an hour\\nor more; sleep if you can, but in any case rest. If you\\nare hungry take a glass of milk or a bottle of koumiss,\\nwhich may be obtained at the apothecary s. Of course\\nwhere one has a family one can not give up the morning\\nhours to a bath and nap. Substitute the same directions\\nfor the late afternoon or delay the bath and anointing un-\\ntil just before retiring but in this case try and get an\\nundisturbed hour or two during the day for absolute rest\\naway from noise and free from interruption. Many very\\nlean women are inclined to melancholia. With such a\\ntendency you should make the strongest effort to cultivate\\ncheerfulness. You will never get round and pretty while\\nyou allow yourself to be low spirited. Choose bright, joy-\\nous companions and avoid every morbid association, not\\nonly with people, but books and plays even music, if too\\nsad, is unhealthful for you. Let our fat, jolly sisters steady", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0423.jp2"}, "422": {"fulltext": "422 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthemselves a little by contact with the sadder side of life.\\nTake five minutes exercise with dumb-bells before lunch-\\neon. For luncheon you may follow your own fancy, only\\nabstaining from tea or coffee, substituting milk, or a min-\\neral water, if you prefer, and choosing such vegetables as\\npeas, beans, potatoes, eggplant and green corn, in preference\\nto cucumbers, salads, turnips, cauliflowers, etc. All farina-\\nceous foods are good for yoa if you find them palatable.\\nEat freely of oatmeal, wheat foods, rice, hominy, corn meal\\nand fruits with cream and sugar.\\nThe Right Sort of Exercise\\nIn the afternoon you should take some exercise\\nhorseback riding, tennis, rowing, bicycling or more walk-\\ning, and an hour of rest again if possible. Recollect you\\nare cultivating idleness, you are to make a duty of being\\nlazy. If you are in the habit of doing fine needlework I\\nwish you would cease for a time. I find the art-embroid-\\nery craze accountable for many crow s-feet and for a\\nnervous condition which is incompatible with a woman s\\nbeauty. Thin women are usually very busy and active,\\nand to be positively idle is a real pain to them but con-\\ntent yourself for the present with some coarser work and\\nthose of you who are so happy as to live away from the\\nwear and tear of city life can surely do a bit of garden-\\ning or other out-of-door work. It often happens that very\\nthin women are really half starved they have no appetite\\nand in consequence no strength, no ambition, no courage,\\nnothing but frayed-out nerves and a threadbare temper. If\\nyou have a dislike for food you must take a good tonic.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0424.jp2"}, "423": {"fulltext": "EMACIATION 423\\nA GOOD TONIC\\nGentian root 2 ounces.\\nBitter oranges, sliced 1 ounce.\\nVirginia snake root ounce.\\nBruise, and infuse for four days in 1 pint of brandy; then add\\n1 pint of water. A wineglassful to be taken occasionally. This is\\nalso excellent for flatulency.\\nLessons in elocution or singing will be of great bene-\\nfit to the narrow-chested woman, and where the emacia-\\ntion is progressive and there is a cough, with a bright\\nflush in the afternoon, send immediately for one of the\\nemulsions of cod-liver oil, Scott s is the standard, and\\ntake it according to directions. I have arrested many\\ncases of emaciation with a tendency to consumption by a\\ngood emulsion of cod-liver oil and proper voice culture.\\nFor dinner you may eat oysters or clams, soups, fish, rare\\nmeats, vegetables except those proscribed, sauces, entrees,\\nsweets and fruits. You may drink beer, porter, stout,\\nBurgundy or a little sweet champagne always in mod-\\neration but unless you have been in the habit of taking\\nsomething of the kind at dinner, I do not advise stimu-\\nlants, as they frequently interfere with the digestive pro-\\ncesses and often are the cause of truly hideous skin\\ndiseases. Moreover it is far more charming to see our\\nwomen total abstainers, to say nothing of the moral side\\nof the question. Avoid all trying work or reading by\\nartificial light. Before retiring you will of course take\\nyour warm bath and scrub without reference to the\\nbath here advised in the morning. Sleep all you can.\\nArrange your life so that you will get the most rest for\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 22", "height": "4352", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0425.jp2"}, "424": {"fulltext": "424\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nyour body and mind possible. Cultivate calmness and\\nplacidity and determine to disprove the old English ax-\\niom that A sweet temper and a bony woman never\\ndwell under the same roof.\\nNow, dear reader, you may have been so distressingly\\nthin for so many years that you have come to consider\\nemaciation your normal condition and have settled down\\nto go through life, a shadow. You have given up hope, if\\nyou ever had any, of holding up your head in the pres-\\nence of your plump, well-rounded sisters and when you\\nread what I have written you say, perhaps with a sigh,\\nThat may be all very well for some, but not for me\\nor, if more sceptical still, you exclaim in sarcastic tem-\\nper, It may do in theory but it won t work in actual\\nexperience. Take heart then, for this treatment is for\\nyou and you can test it for yourself with every assurance\\nof success. And do not credit me with having evolved\\na fine-spun theory of no value in practice. It has been\\ntried with most remarkable results and in cases so des-\\nperate as to baffle the doctors, in proof of which I beg\\nyou to read the story of Catherine Lane which follows.\\n(See Appendix A, page 456.)", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0426.jp2"}, "425": {"fulltext": "()iira\\nCHAPTER XLVIII\\nOBESITY\\nO, that this too, too solid flesh would melt. Romeo and Juliet.\\nHE reverse of emaciation is obesity. If there be\\na choice between obesity and leanness it is dis-\\ntinctly on the side of the latter condition, and\\nmost of us would prefer to be bony to carry-\\ning an excess of flesh. It is much easier, also,\\nI have found, to acquire flesh than to get\\nrid of it.\\nThere is no royal road to beauty, nor, indeed, to any\\nother very desirable state of being, and the reduction of\\nfat, while easily enough accomplished, all things being rel-\\native, requires perseverance and self-denial.\\nTreating Fat Scientifically\\nFat is an accumulation of unburnt body fuse in other\\nwords, fat is carbon, and carbon is consumed by oxygen\\n(425)", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0427.jp2"}, "426": {"fulltext": "426 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nwhich we inhale through our lungs. To put this into still\\nplainer English, physical exercise will, we all know, re-\\nduce flesh the reason is that in unusual exercise, such as\\nrapid walking, horseback riding, gymnastics or bicycling,\\nthe blood is more rapidly oxygenated and the result is\\nthe destruction or burning out of the fat. You may have\\nnoticed that great walkers are never fat, and that people\\nwho live in high altitudes and in mountainous countries,\\nwhere they walk a great deal and consume quantities of\\noxygen, are always slim. There are all sorts of systems\\nand theories respecting the reduction of flesh.\\nSome Flesh-Reducing Methods\\nA quarter of a century ago an Englishman named\\nBanting made himself famous and his name the synonym for\\nflesh-reducing by the publication of a pamphlet, which may\\nstill be purchased, giving in detail the history of his own\\ncase, and telling the means by which he reduced his weight\\nfrom 202 to 150 pounds in one year. Mr. Banting for\\nseven years maintained his weight at 150 pounds. He\\nlived on beef, mutton, fish, bacon, dry toast and biscuit,\\npoultry, game, tea, coffee, claret and sherry, and abstained\\nfrom pork, veal, salmon, sugar, milk, all vegetables grown\\nunderground, and all fatty and farinaceous substances.\\nMr. Banting, however, consumed daily about forty-three\\nounces of liquid. There is no question about the success\\nof the Banting system, for thosQ who wish to try it, but\\nthere are very few people possessed of the originator s\\nself-denial and persistency.", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0428.jp2"}, "427": {"fulltext": "OBESITY 427\\nDr. Schweninger, the famous German physician, who\\nhas established his reputation as a flesh-reducer through\\nhis success in ridding Prince Bismarck of forty pounds\\navoirdupois in three months without the slightest delete-\\nrious effect upon his distinguished patient s physical con-\\ndition, restricts the consumption of liquids at all times,\\nand deprives the patient entirely of all fluids during or\\nwithin an hour of meals; forbids starch and sugar and\\nadvises most heroic physical exercise. This is a sure cure\\nand for the Man of Iron not difficult, but for the average\\nAmerican woman the Schweninger method would be mar-\\ntyrdom. Dr. Say recommends the drinking of large quan-\\ntities of hot tea, but Professor Oertel goes to the other\\nextreme, for he not only deprives his patients of the\\npleasure of allaying thirst when agreeable, but insists\\nupon diminishing the fluids in the body by a regime\\nwhich would be to most of us a most exhausting one, as\\nit consists of a systematic sweating process. I heartily\\ndisprove of this plan as it cannot fail to be weakening\\nand depressing, and fatal to beauty. Dr. Ebstein published\\na pamphlet some years ago recommending fatty food and\\nsauces containing fat on the homeopathic principle of\\nlike cures like. Alas! for those who tried this method,\\nwhich resulted in some cases in a gain of flesh to the\\nextent of three pounds a week. Dr. Saulsbury has been\\nquite successful as far as the actual reduction of flesh is\\nconcerned by his system of a diet strictly limited to un-\\ndone meats, principally beef, dry toasts and hot water.\\nHis patients certainly get thin, but it is a species of mar-\\ntyrdom which I have found unnecessary, as the same", "height": "4356", "width": "2744", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0429.jp2"}, "428": {"fulltext": "428\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nresult may be accomplished more agreeably and with a\\nfar better effect upon the complexion. The proper weight\\nfor various heights is acknowledged to be as follows:\\n120 pounds.\\n126 pounds.\\n133 pounds.\\n136 pounds.\\n142 pounds.\\n145 pounds.\\n149 pounds.\\n155 pounds.\\n162 pounds.\\n169 pounds.\\n174 pounds.\\n178 pounds.\\nFive\\nfeet\\n1\\ninch\\nFive\\nfeet\\n2\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n3\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n4\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n5\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n6\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n7\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n8\\ninches\\nFive\\nfeet\\n9\\ninches\\nFive feet 10 inches\\nFive feet 11\\ninches\\nSix feet\\nHow TO Meet the Enemy\\nMost women begin to get too stout at about thirty\\nsometimes a little earlier, but in such cases there is usually\\nan inherited tendency. Frequently the subjects are of in-\\ndolent natures, though women who are of sedentary habits\\nand of extreme mental activity also are inclined to obesity.\\nMany literary women, compelled to sit the greater part of\\ntheir waking lives, are often great sufferers from fat. I\\nhave never failed to reduce the flesh of those who would\\nfollow my directions, and with the system I advise there\\nis not, as in most cases, the discouraging outlook of\\nwrinkles in place of fat.\\nSleep, want of physical exercise, sugar and starch are,\\nin my opinion, the most formidable of flesh-producers. I\\nwill promise to reduce your weight from four to twelve\\npounds a month, without exhaustion, without drugs, with-", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0430.jp2"}, "429": {"fulltext": "OBESITY 429\\nout the flabbiness which is so frequently the result of\\nflesh reducing, particularly when induced by drugs. You\\nwill find the relief from the burden of flesh so delight-\\nful, and the pleasure of life so increased, ag you approach\\na normal condition of health (for too much fat is a dis-\\nease) that you will be more than repaid for the effort I\\nam bound to say you must make. Courage, therefore\\nwhat is worth having is worth fighting for, and first of\\nall please to get weighed. You must limit your hours of\\nsleep to seven at the outside and no siestas during the\\nday. Seven is a lucky number and a very good hour to\\nquit your bed for the day. If you are in the habit of\\ntaking a cold sponge bath in the morning all the better;\\nit is stimulating, and while I do not advise it for delicate\\nwomen, it is healthful for those who are robust, and in\\nsuch cases is certainly invigorating.\\nRegulating the Diet\\nPractice a few moments with your dumb-bells before\\nbreakfast, and at that meal abstain from potatoes, all\\nkinds of hot wheat breads, but eat any ripe fruit you\\nmay like, with a wedge or two of dry toast, and a good-\\nsized bit of underdone steak or mutton. Sprinkle a little\\nsalt on your toast and you will find it does very well\\ninstead of butter in fact, you will very soon find you are\\ngetting on without a thought of butter, which you must\\nnot eat. You may drink tea or coffee and in each case\\nsweeten the liquid with a saccharine tablet (1 grain),\\nwhich you may purchase at any apothecary s. The tab-", "height": "4360", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0431.jp2"}, "430": {"fulltext": "430 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nlets are put up in small bottles containing about twenty-\\nfive each. One cup of tea or coffee must sufBce. Use\\nonly sufficient milk to make your beverage palatable, and\\nif it is not a real privation to you, wholly dispense with\\ncoffee or tea it will hasten the flesh-reducing. I do not\\ninsist upon this because it is in many cases a real hard-\\nship to be deprived of one s cup of tea or coffee at break-\\nfast. You may also eat raw tomatoes, sliced cucumbers,\\nradishes or cresses in season with your breakfast, but you\\nmust omit oil from the salad dressing.\\nSuitable Clothing\\nAfter breakfast, rain or shine, you must exercise. If\\npossible take a good long walk and before you go forth\\non this walk let me beseech you to loosen your corsets if\\nyou have been in the deplorable habit of wearing them\\ntightly laced. Provide yourself with large, easy, broad-\\nsoled shoes coming well up about your ankles loosely\\nlaced. Never mind how they look get shoes at least\\nbwo sizes larger than any you have ever worn hitherto,\\nwith flat heels. If your heart fail you think of the im-\\nmortal Trilby and of those heelless, large and easy shoes\\nof hers and be comforted. Begin by a walk of two\\nmiles get into the country if you possibly can, and if\\nnot a city park is the next best thing go some place\\nwhere at this relatively early hour you can walk for ex-\\nercise only and without regard for the conventionalities\\nof fashionable streets.\\nKeep your mouth closed while walking and learn to\\nbreathe, if you have not yet acquired the habit, from the", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0432.jp2"}, "431": {"fulltext": "OBESITY 431\\ndiaphragm deep breathing, as it is called. It consists in\\ndrawing the breath deeply and slowly. By this process a\\ngreat deal more oxygen is taken into the lungs, and it is\\npure oxygen we are looking to as a great factor in our\\ntreatment for obesity. Deep breathing has a most won-\\nderful effect in hardening the muscles of the abdomen\\nalso, and in decreasing its size. You will get purer air\\naway from the dusty and too often filthy streets, which is\\nanother argument for the country and the parks. Rising\\nat seven, breakfasting about eight, you should be at home\\nagain by eleven and about your ordinary occupations.\\nLuncheon should consist of fruit, toast, eggs in any form,\\nunderdone meats and almost any vegetable that does not\\ncontain starch. For example, peas, potatoes, corn and\\nbeans all are starchy, so you must give them up, but you\\nstill have a varied and delightful menu in fruits, sal-\\nads, cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, turnips and\\nsquash. You need not fear starvation.\\nIt Is Encouraging to Weigh\\nWeigh yourself twenty-four hours after you begin this\\ntreatment and you will find you have already lost flesh.\\nIf you can ride horseback do so by all means, and for\\ngetting rid of flesh about the hips there is no exercise so\\neffective as bicycling. If you have no horse and no\\nwheel there is nothing for it but walking and gymnas-\\ntics. You can accomplish the same results the process\\nmay not be quite so diverting, but you will succeed if\\nyou will but be persistent, Bodily exercise is of the", "height": "4348", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0433.jp2"}, "432": {"fulltext": "432 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ngreatest importance in the obesity cure and if you will\\nexercise courageously you will have no wrinkles where\\nthe flesh was and wrinkles are enemies to good looks.\\nAn hour or two of brisk exercise in the afternoon prac-\\ntically about the same restrictions in the choice of food\\nfor dinner. If you are in the custom of drinking wine at\\ndinner choose either a light claret or white wine. You\\nmust not drink either champagnes or any sweet wines or\\nliquors you may drink a little black coffee after dinner,\\nbut you must eat no sweets at dessert. In place of mas-\\nsage, which is, despite all protests to the contrary, an aid\\nto flesh forming, once each day rub your arms, your\\ncheeks, and the soft flesh under the chin briskly but not\\nso forcibly as to bruise, and afterwards apply the follow-\\ning excellent tonic lotion prescribed by Doctor James and\\nindorsed by the celebrated hygienist, Monin, as wonder-\\nfully efficacious for preventing the formation of wrin-\\nkles\\nLOTION FOR PREVENTING WRINKLES\\nRose water. 200 grammes.\\n(Thick) milk of almonds 50 grammes.\\nSulphate of aluminium 4 grammes.\\nDissolve thoroughly and filter keep in stoppered bottles.\\nKeep a record of your weight. You can easily regu-\\nlate the decrease in flesh not only by your diet, but by\\nthe exercise you take. Of course, it is understood that\\nonce in twenty-four hours you take a full bath and scrub\\nas an essential to cleanliness and to keep the pores of the\\nskin free and open,", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0434.jp2"}, "433": {"fulltext": "OBESITY 4S3\\nIf what I have here written arouses in the breast of\\nany woman suffering from an excess of adipose tissue, a\\ngleam of hope that her condition may be relieved, let not\\nthat gleam, however feeble, die out for lack of ambition\\nto fan it into flame. It is the tendency of stout people\\nto eat, sleep and let things drift along. They lose one-\\nhalf the enjoyment of life by being cabined, cribbed,\\nconfined, bound up in a blanket of fat, and when that\\nblanket presses too closely upon the vital organs, life is\\nslowly smothered, until, at last, the light goes out. There-\\nfore if the treatment outlined were theory only it is well\\nworth trial. How much the more so, then, when you\\nhave my most sincere assurance that it is not a mere\\nempty fad, but an accomplished scientific fact. You can\\ntry it for yourself and you will be benefited the very first\\nday, and so with the second and third. You can actually\\nsee and feel your way as did Mrs. Baker, whose experience\\nis related in Appendix B, page 477.", "height": "4356", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0435.jp2"}, "434": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XLIX\\nCOSMETICS\\nI -will give out divers schedules of my beauty. Twelfth Night.\\nAM always a bit amused when anathemas are hurled\\nat the present use of cosmetics, particularly when\\na hopelessly-soured and pitilessly-unattractive fe-\\nmale or a blatant, tobacco-smoking, spirituously-\\nodorous male addresses me on the subject. I read\\nfrom time to time of the untold millions we\\nwomen are spending annually for our paints and\\npowders, and of all the good we might do were we not\\nso given over to vanity and deceit. I have been assured\\nby men who should know, if experience go for anything,\\nthat no good woman at any time of the world ever\\npainted her face. I have had Jezebel thrown at me with\\na pertinent verse of Scripture attached, and with such\\nspite that one would think I personally am accountable\\nfor that most trying woman and had given her the\\n(434)", "height": "4380", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0436.jp2"}, "435": {"fulltext": "COSMETICS 435\\nformulas for the paints and eye darkeners she adorned\\nherself with before going out to the capture of King\\nJehu.\\nAs a matter of actual fact, whatever one s opinion may\\nbe as to the morale of the question, cosmetics have been\\nused both by good and bad women as far back as we can\\nlearn anything of the personal customs of the sex, just as\\nwine has been drunk by priests and sots, by gentlemen\\nand cads, and will be used and abused so long as men\\nand wine exist.\\nI am not an advocate of indiscriminate painting of the\\nface, of hair dyeing or bleaching, because all are usually\\nunpleasant and perceptibly artificial and unbecoming in\\ntheir results, but I certainly think a woman should be\\nher own judge in the matter, and the subject is one she\\nis entirely competent to study for herself without mascu-\\nline interference or dictation. Moreover, I never knew a\\nwoman who, if she chose, could not deceive the keenest\\neye of man on this point. It is always another woman\\nwho first tells a man that her sister uses artificial color\\nor stains her hair.\\nThere are times in a woman s life, when, if she be wise,\\nshe will attempt to repair the damage of years and care.\\nWhen a wife sees a haggard-looking ghost of herself re-\\nflected from her mirror, when perhaps she is painfully\\nconscious that the eyes she loves best are turning from\\nher faded beauty to a less worthy object, then I think she\\nis not only justified in delicately simulating, by every aid\\nknown to cosmetic art, the charms she has lost, but she\\nis stupid not to do so. It is the plain, unadorned, weary", "height": "4348", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0437.jp2"}, "436": {"fulltext": "436 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nand too natural woman whose husband invariably falls a\\nvictim to the wiles of a Delilah, or succumbs to the arti-\\nficial charms of a Jezebel. The very man who will almost\\nfall in a fit at the sight of toilet powder in his wife s\\ndressing room, will break her heart and waste his sub-\\nstance in the worship of a peroxide or regenerator Titian-\\nred blonde.\\nLet a premium be placed on sallow-faced, pale-lipped,\\ndull, thin-haired women in the devotion and loyalty of\\nthe other sex, and the trade of the cosmetic artist will\\nsoon become a matter of ancient history.\\nThe question is then Shall we use cosmetics, and\\nwhen After she has passed her thirtieth birthday every\\nwoman must answer this for herself. It is the veriest non-\\nsense for any one to assume that a good woman has never\\nused paint and powder. You and I have only to go back\\nto our ancestors to discover that not so many genera-\\ntions away, our grandmammas rouged, powdered and wore\\npatches, fine, virtuous and splendid they were indeed, and\\nsome of them were even of that magnificent band of her-\\noines who superbly walked to the scaffold martyrs to\\ntheir patriotism and high principles. Paint and powder\\ndid not make them less virtuous because they were in\\ncommon usage.\\nWithout undertaking to discuss the question of cos-\\nmetics from any moral standpoint at all, I give it as my\\npersonal opinion that it is the greatest of mistakes for a\\ngirl or woman under thirty, except in unusual cases, to re-\\nsort to the practice, even to the extent of using a face-\\npowder.", "height": "4364", "width": "2772", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0438.jp2"}, "437": {"fulltext": "COSMETICS 437\\nMy reason for this opinion is that all cosmetics are\\nunbecoming to youthful faces, and that artifice jars upon\\nus when associated with the springtime of life.\\nAfter thirty well, it all depends. Some women retain\\na youthful and lovely complexion even long after the fif-\\ntieth birthday but the excitement, the tension of modern\\nlife, the wear and tear of maternity, the never-ending grind\\nof society, all are potent factors in robbing our American\\nbeauty of her bloom, and they give her frequently a hag-\\ngard sort of pallor which quite destroys her fine appearance.\\nWomen are like flowers and beautiful out-of-door pic-\\ntures all delicacy and grace, with an atmosphere ol\\nspring or summer or autumn emanating from them each\\nlovely at its appropriate time, that is, when they are as\\nNature intended them.\\nThe faded little wife in her really touching effort to\\nretain her husband s admiration or to win him from an\\nunworthy rival, may with safety use the least little bit of\\nfinest powder for her face she may carefully brush the\\ndelicate eyebrows after the slightest possible touch of vase-\\nline to restore their luster. She may bathe her lips with\\nan aromatic toilet water, which will bring the color to\\nthem, so that when she smiles her rather wan, little face\\nwill be transfigured by the contrast between the pretty\\nlips and the entrancing row of double pearls. Shie should\\nattend to every point of herself with scrupulous exactness.\\nEvery part of her dress should be irreproachable, for noth-\\ning so accentuates fading beauty as carelessness.\\nThe cosmetics here referred to are about all that can\\nbe safely used and imperceptibly, for daylight, and, with a", "height": "4352", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0439.jp2"}, "438": {"fulltext": "438 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nveil selected for its becoming spots, the result will be an\\nappearance of freshness most attractive. But in any case,\\na sweet and modest woman should be careful to an ex-\\ntreme degree in using artificial expedients during the day-\\ntime. The manifestly made-up woman is too atrocious a\\nblot on the landscape to even discuss.\\nAt night, for the home-dinner, as well as for opera\\nand ball, the artificial light makes it possible for a\\nwoman to literally put on her war paint, and the make-\\nup here suggested is intended for evening and to bear\\nthe glare of electric lights.\\nInstead of an enamel, which always gives the face a\\nporcelain look, a delicate liquid powder is first applied to\\nthe face, neck and arms. This preparation is called the\\nliquid whitener. It is made as follows\\nLIQUID WHITENER\\nWater, previously boiled and strained 1 quart\\nAlcohol 30 drops.\\nOxide of zinc 1 ounce.\\nBichloride of mercury 8 grains.\\nGlycerine 20 drops.\\nTake 4 ounces of water and heat it to boiling point dissolve\\nthe bichloride of mercury in this hot water add the alcohol. Mix\\nthe zinc and glycerine together in a bowl pour the larger portion\\nof the quart of water in scir, then add the diluted bichloride of\\nmercury and alcohol. Bottle and shake always before using. Apply\\nthe liquid with a small, soft, velvet sponge. This liquid should be\\nwiped off with a chamois skin before it has had time to dry, or it\\nwill appear streaky.\\nNo woman can do this for herself. If the wash be\\nevenly spread and dried properly, it is reallj^ impercepti-", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0440.jp2"}, "439": {"fulltext": "COSMETICS 439\\nble. There is a danger in doing it without assistance of\\nmissing ever so small a section of the skin, and this is\\nfatal.\\nA little color for the cheeks (the finest French rouge\\npowder or liquid should be used for this purpose), the\\nslightest touch of the eyebrow pencil to the eyelids and\\neyebrows, a faint addition to the color of the lips, stolen\\nfrom a stick of French grenadine, as it is called, and, last\\nof all, a very little powder (formula for which I give) all\\napplied in the strongest glare, of daylight this sort of\\nmake-up is positively imperceptible at night, and is, be-\\nyond question, wonderfully becoming.\\nWHITE FACE-POWDER\\nFinest cornstarch 1 ounce.\\nPure oxide of zinc (best quality) 3 ounces.\\nMix thoroughly and sift through verj fine bolting silk reject\\nall that remains in the bolting sift the second time through another\\nbit of bolting silk perfume with three drops of oil of roses.\\nIt is very difficult to make a satisfactory rouge at\\nhome. I give formulas, but I must say the ingredients are\\nfrequently adulterated or of inferior quality. Therefore I\\nadvise the imported article.\\nFORMULA FOR ROUGE\\nFinely bolted talc 4 ounces.\\nCarmine 2 drachms.\\nMake a solution of gum tragacanth and warm water a very lit-\\ntle only is required. Mix the talc and carmine first well together,\\nand sift add enough of the diluted gum tragacanth to form into\\na smooth paste allow it to dry apply with a hare s foot to the\\nface.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 23", "height": "4356", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0441.jp2"}, "440": {"fulltext": "440\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe eyebrow pencil may be purchased from any dealer\\nin toilet articles. It is made in three shades black, dark\\nbrown and blond.\\nLIQUID ROUGE\\nLiquid rouge, if of a very fine quality, may be used in prefer-\\nence to the rouge fard. It is made by dissolving pure rouge (car-\\nthamin), which is acidulated with a solution of acetic acid.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0442.jp2"}, "441": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER L\\nPERFUMES\\nLike the bee, culling from every flower\\nThe virtuous sweets. Henry IV.\\nN THIS progressive and aggressive age, it is a singular\\nfact that the art of the perfumer has not funda-\\nmentally changed, and it is greatly to be doubted\\nif our oils and pomades to-day excel the precious\\nointments of Araby the blest, hundreds of years\\nback. We still are obliged to catch the odor of a\\nbloom in fat, and to distill our choicest perfumes\\nfrom these heavily flower-impregnated pomades as they\\nare termed.\\nThese are the oils which were well called precious\\nin the days of Moses, and the science of their composition\\nwas taught by the High Priests to the Egyptian scholars.\\nIndeed the Bible and its commentaries contain numerous\\nrules for the making of perfumes, and an essential to every\\n(441)", "height": "4356", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0443.jp2"}, "442": {"fulltext": "442 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nform of purification was the burning of a prescribed quan-\\ntity of precious oils and incense.\\nAt one time the Roman Church made so great a use\\nof perfumes in the various ceremonials, that she had\\nlarge tracts of land in Syria and other Oriental provinces\\nexpressly for the cultivation of flowers for oils.\\nWe are forever being told of our extravagance in these\\ndays of the degringolade, but there is always a precedent in\\nhistory. What should we think to-day of a king who\\nwould expend the year s growth in blossoms for the fu-\\nneral of his wife? Nero did this at the death of his wife\\nPoppsea.\\nAs I have said, the only way to permanently hold a\\nflower odor is to imprison it in fat. Once caught in oil\\nor suet, you may keep it captive until you choose to re-\\nlease it through distillation and expansion. Extracts will\\nevaporate, and are not reliable.\\nIf you will study any of the list of odors advertised^by\\nthe great perfuming houses of France, you will indeed\\nfind an emharras de richesse in the fifty or sixty extracts\\nor essences offered you. Every flower is represented, and\\ndozens of proper and invented names are added to swell\\nthe number of delicate perfumes from which the pur-\\nchaser may select.\\nIt is a well-known fact, however, that there are only\\nsix or eight flowers which yield oils, and that the per-\\nfumer must make combinations from these to imitate the\\nodors of all other flowers. This may be properly called\\nthe artistic side of perfumery. The French perfumer ex-\\ncels in this delicate part of the science, studying similar-", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0444.jp2"}, "443": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 44S\\nities and aflBnities and shades as the artist does the colors\\nof his skies, or the blending of his materials in the blush\\nof the rose.\\nIf you are going to endeavor to distill your own per-\\nfumes, I should recommend that you purchase your po-\\nmade or essential oil from a first-class importing house.\\nThe essential oils or pomades are very costly, but you\\nwill bear in mind that an ounce of pomade of first quality\\nwill make at least sixteen ounces of very strong extract.\\nThe method is simple enough. Suppose you purchase, for\\nexample, one ounce of oil of roses. Take one pint of\\npure alcohol above proof mix the oil of roses with it\\nin a clean bottle. Place the bottle in a vessel of hot\\nwater until the contents acquire a temperature of about\\n85\u00c2\u00b0 Fahrenheit. Then cork the bottle quite close shake\\nit briskly until the liquid is cold. You will have a most\\ndelicious and very strong odor as a result, which will im-\\nprove with age just as good wine does. A few drops of\\nthis perfume will be all you can, with good taste, use at\\na time.\\nIf you wish, however, to make a pomade from the\\nnatural flower you certainly can succeed, but it requires a\\ngood deal of skill, infinite patience and some utensils, and,\\ninasmuch as pomades are the despair of many would-be\\nperfumers, I do not advise their manufacture by the ama-\\nteur, although I give a formula.\\nYou will have to purchase from a dealer in perfumers\\nsupplies a series of shallow, iron frames, adapted for piling\\non each other, and fitting close together. A piece of\\nwhite, spongy, cotton cloth is stretched upon each, and is", "height": "4356", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0445.jp2"}, "444": {"fulltext": "444 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthen freely moistened with oil of almonds, olives or ben.\\nOn the cloth is then laid a thin layer of the freshly-plucked\\nflowers, and each frame, as thus covered, is placed on a\\npreceding one, until a compact pile of them is raised. In\\ntwenty-four to thirty hours the flowers are replaced by\\nfresh ones and this is repeated every day, or every other\\nday, until seven or eight different lots of flowers have\\nbeen consumed, or the oil has become sufficiently charged\\nwith their odor. The cotton cloths are then carefully col-\\nlected and submitted to powerful pressure, and the ^ex-\\npressed oil which flows from them is placed aside in\\ncorked bottles or jars, to settle. After some time it be-\\ncomes perfectly clear, and is then ready to be decanted\\ninto other bottles, and kept for distilling.\\nThe best flowers for the above purpose in America are\\nviolet, honeysuckle, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, narcissus,\\norange flowers and myrtle blossoms.\\nAn exquisite essence of rose may be made as follows\\nEXTRACT ESSENCE OF ROSE\\nTake of petals of roses (fresh) 3 pounds (avoirdupois) and rectified\\nspirits (90 per cent.) 5 imperial quarts digest the petals (picked to\\npieces) in the spirits for 24 hours, then distill to dryness by the heat of\\na water bath. Digest the distillate (product of distillation) on a fresh\\nquantity of rose petals, and redistill as before and repeat the whole\\nprocess of maceration and distillation a third, fourth, fifth and sixth time,\\nor oftener, the last time observing to conduct the distillation rapidly,\\nand to draw over only 1 gallon, which is the essence, delicately and\\ndelightfully fragrant. It improves by age. The product of the above\\nrecipe is very superior.\\nThe most successful odors are, in the language of the\\nperfumer, bouquets, that is to say, made up of a combina-", "height": "4380", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0446.jp2"}, "445": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 445\\ntion. Frangipani, for example, is made up of half-a-dozen\\nodors, and the handkerchief extract known as Peau\\nd Espagne is composed of frangipani and patchouly, half-\\nand-half. The greatest care should be taken in making\\nbouquets or you will waste a lot of expensive materials\\nand get only a most offensive result.\\nSome odors, as my instructor once said to me, are like\\nmusical sounds they harmonize and produce a beautiful\\ncompound others are antagonistic, and you can get noth-\\ning but discord from their combination.\\nIn making a bouquet of flower odors, it is sometimes\\napparently impossible to get any defined result until what\\nis called a binder is used, then the whole is caught and\\nthe result will be in the hands of a skillful artist, delicious\\nindeed. My old instructor in Paris long ago explained all\\nthis to us in a most delightful way. The flower odors,\\nhe would say, are of an exquisitely delicate texture, like\\nthe finest paper of the leaves of a dainty love story each\\nleaf represents a breath of perfume they will all fly\\naway or get confused and hopelessly entangled without a\\nbinding. So we bind the flower odors with a stronger\\nsubstance musk, which is taken from the deer or am-\\nbergris, which comes from the whale just as the book-\\nbinder holds the leaves of the tender story, which would\\nbe lost if left unfettered, with a leather or paper strong\\nenough to fasten all together.\\nIt is a curious fact that the inorganic world has never\\nyet, properly speaking, yielded a single perfume. The few\\nperfumes such as musk, ambergris and civet, which are ob-\\ntained from the animal kingdom, are not of themselves", "height": "4352", "width": "2728", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0447.jp2"}, "446": {"fulltext": "446 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nagreeable. They are extremely necessary in holding and\\nsustaining flower odors, but alone they are not at all to\\nbe compared to the perfume of any one of many flowers.\\nLavender water is a delicate and essentially cleanly\\nodor, delicious for the bath, and preferred by many to bay\\nrum or Florida water. I give formulas for all three to\\nchoose from.\\nLAVENDER TOILET WATER\\nTake 2 ounces (avoirdupois) finest oil of lavender (Mitcham)\\nessence of musk (finest), 1 imperial fluid ounce essence of ambergris\\n(finest) and oil of bergamot (recent), of each ounce rectified spirits\\n(90 per cent, scentless), gallon mix by agitation.\\nFLORIDA WATER\\nTake 2 drachms each of the oils of lavender, bergamot and lemon;\\n1 drachm each of tincture of turmeric and oil of neroli 30 drops oil of\\nbalm and 10 drops oil of roses. Mix the above with two pints of de-\\nodorized alcohol.\\nWEST INDIA BAY RUM\\nTake 2 pounds of leaves of the mjrtus acris, pound cardamons,\\n2 ounces cassia, 1^ ounces cloves and 9 quarts rum. Distill 1^ gallons.\\nBay rum may be colored with tincture of saffron or with a mixture of\\nequal parts caramel and tincture turmeric.\\nThe perfume of the violet is so delicate that I have\\nknown women who used it in some form every step of the\\ntoilet bath, cosmetics, sachets, all redolent of the lovely\\nblue flower, and yet were never overpoweringly fragant,\\nwhich is really to be, in my opinion, most offensively vul-\\ngar. I should always select violet or the most delicate\\nheliotrope for a personal perfume. It is in far better taste\\nfor a woman to use but one odor at a time that is to", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0448.jp2"}, "447": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 447\\nsay, to use violet, if that be her choice, for her handker-\\nchief extract, toilet water, sachets, etc., and not to mix\\nthis perfume with Peau d Espagne or White Rose.\\nSpeaking of Peau d Espagne reminds me of the vogue\\naccorded leather odors a few years since. I remember\\none woman who had Russian leather sewed in the crown\\nof her bonnets and an inner sole made of the precious\\nstuff for her dancing shoes.\\nPeau d Espagne is much more agreeable and enduring\\nthan simple Russian leather. It is made of the same\\npelt, but is cured in sugar and musk. The real Peau\\nd Espagne is to be procured only from one firm in\\nEurope, and is very expensive one dozen little squares\\ncosting ten dollars. It has the advantage of retaining its\\ndelicate fragrance for a long, long time. Sachet powders\\nfor perfuming sachets are readily made at home. The\\nmost fastidious woman frequently confines herself to the\\nperfumes from dry powders of this nature, and considers\\na liquid extract too pronounced and consequently vulgar.\\nFlannel heavily impregnated with perfume may now be\\nobtained in Europe. This flannel is cut in small bits and\\ndistributed among one s belongings, giving all a delicious\\nand delicate odor.\\nThe sachets are now made of all sizes and suitable for\\nevery article of dress as well as for closets, wardrobes\\nand bureau drawers. A closet sachet is really an entire\\nlining for the closet of wadded silk into which a quantity\\nof the sweet-scented powder has been introduced. A cor-\\nset sachet is the other extreme in size, and is but a tiny\\nscrap of silk and cotton wool, fragrant with violet or helio-\\ntrope, and measuring but an inch in width and perhaps", "height": "4336", "width": "2752", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0449.jp2"}, "448": {"fulltext": "448 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ntwo in length. It is sewed inside the corset. Sachets for\\ndress skirts and bodices are made of a proper length and\\nform for the garment they are to impregnate with per-\\nfume. As soon as the skirt and bodice of the fashionable\\nwoman have been brushed and repaired after wearing, the\\nsachets are fastened inside the bodice and skirt and left\\nto perform their fragrant mission until my lady elects to\\nwear them again.\\nMany w^omen are quite expert in making sachet pow-\\nders from the flowers others fail disastrously and suc-\\nceed only in obtaining a half-decayed odor which is far\\nfrom agreeable. The secret is in the combination and in\\nusing a binder which develops and holds the flower\\nodors in a bouquet. You cannot fail to make a delicious\\nsachet powder if you take a little pains, and carefully fol-\\nlow the directions here given. It is as well, unless you\\nare very skillful, not to try experiments.\\nRose leaves and petals of other flowers should be thor-\\noughly dried for sachet powders. Take care not to let\\nthem gather mold in the process.\\nYou will require a basis for your sachet powder. I\\nprefer orris myself, but the reindeer moss, carefully picked\\nover, dried and pulverized, is a favorite with many. Here\\nis a delicious sachet powder\\nROSE SACHET POWDER\\nPowdered florentine orris 8 ounces.\\nRose leaves (air dried) 10 ounces.\\nMusk in powder 20 grains.\\nLavender flowers 2 ounces.\\nCivet 10 grains.\\nMix well and keep closelj corked until you wish to use for the\\nsachets.", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0450.jp2"}, "449": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 449\\nVIOLET SACHET POWDER\\nPowdered orris 1 pound.\\nPowdered bergamot peel J ounce.\\nPowdered acacia ounce.\\nMusk 20 grains.\\nOrris alone is much used as a sachet powder it is\\nalways far better to add a little musk to it, as the\\nmusk holds the perfume.\\nThe odor from the orris root is greatly affected by many\\nfastidious French women, and it is quite a common prac-\\ntice to throw an orris root necklace into the final water\\nused in washing the linen of the Parisienne elegante.\\nIt is said that one French woman, upon being reproached\\nby her confessor for her extravagance in this direction, re-\\nplied that if she were going to perdition she intended\\nto go smelling of orris, and she said she thought even\\nhis Satanic Majesty would find it pleasanter than sulphur.\\nHeliotrope sachet powder is delicate and lasting. I\\nreally feel bound to say here that there is no sachet\\npowder and no perfume once placed in contact with the\\nair which can, as many women insist various powders\\nand odors do, last forever. Just as soon as, to use a\\nvulgarism, we can eat and keep our pudding, we shall\\nbe able to set free a delicious odor and at the same\\ntime hold it captive. Heat expands the odor and it\\npasses away, dying in delicious fragrance. Logically, you\\ncan no more keep the perfume than you can both keep\\na chocolate drop and eat it too. Lock them both in a\\nbox, and you are their master. You would never think of\\nrailing against the chocolate drop that disappears when", "height": "4336", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0451.jp2"}, "450": {"fulltext": "450 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\neaten, but wno has not heard the complaint against the\\nperfumes that were perfectly delicious, you know, but did\\nnot last\\nMany women enjoy the perfume of incense, or sweet-\\nscented pastilles. The incense of the church is composed\\nas follows\\nINCENSE\\nOlibanum (true) 7 ounces.\\nGum benzoin 2 ounces.\\nMix and add\\nCascarilla 1 ounce.\\nBurn in a censer or on a hot plate.\\nFORMULA FOR SWEET-SCENTED PASTILLES FOR BURNING\\nDissolve j ounce niter in pint water mix this with pound willow\\ncharcoal and dry it thoroughly in a warm place. When the nitrated\\ncharcoal is perfectly dry, pour upon it a mixture of drachm each of\\nthe attars of thyme, caraway, rose, lavender, cloves and santal then stir\\nin 6 ounces benzoic acid (flowers of benzoin) mix thoroughly through\\na sieve, then beat in a mortar, with sufficient mucilage to bind together.\\nMake into pastilles and dry.\\nThe competition in colognes has been keen for years\\nand years. At the time of the last Paris exposition a\\ncertain well-known trade magazine offered as a prize for\\nthe best formula competition open to chemists and per-\\nfumers of all countries a trip to Paris, with hotel accom-\\nmodations in that city for eight days and return, all\\nfirst class, to the person who should send the best sample\\nbottle of cologne with formula. There were 219 com-\\npetitors. The samples were carefully tested by a jury", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0452.jp2"}, "451": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 451\\nof eminent perfumers, and the following formula received\\nthe coveted award\\nCOLOGNE WATER\\nEssence of bergamot\\nEssence of citron\\nEssence of neroli\\nEssence of origan\\nEssence of romarin\\nOrange flower water\\nTriple distilled alcohol\\n8 grammes.\\n4 grammes.\\n20 drops.\\n6 drops.\\n20 drops.\\n30 grammes.\\n578 cubes.\\nThe following are the formulas of the most popular\\nand the highest-priced smelling-salts to be purchased.\\nLAVENDER SMELLING-SALTS\\nCarbonate of ammonia (cut in squares) 8 ounces.\\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) ounce.\\nOil of bergamot ounce.\\nOil of cloves 1 fluid ounce.\\nOil of cassia fluid ounce.\\nMix and rub the oils well together. Put the squares of ammonia\\ninto your smelling bottle. Pour enough of the mixture over the salts\\nto scantily cover them.\\nROSE SMELLING-SALTS\\nOil of bergamot 2 fluid ounces.\\nOil of verbena J ounce.\\nAttar of roses 2 drachms.\\nMix and pour over squares of carbonate of ammonia as above.\\nAn extract of pink which was a very fashionable odor\\na few years ago, was manufactured in the laboratory where\\nI was a student. There was not a particle of real pink in", "height": "4348", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0453.jp2"}, "452": {"fulltext": "452\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nit. The perfume was a most excellent imitation of the\\nflower odor and was made as follows\\nEXTRACT OF PINK\\nExtract of rose\\nExtract of orange flower\\nExtract of acacia flower\\nExtract of vanilla\\nEssence of cloves\\n6 ounces.\\n3 ounces.\\n3 ounces.\\n56 grammes.\\n10 drops.\\nHELIOTROPE SACHET POWDER\\nIris powder 2 pounds.\\nPowdered rose leaves\\nTonka beans (in powder)\\nVanilla husks\\nMusk in grains\\nEssence of almonds\\nMix it and pass through a large sieve\\n1 pound.\\n6 ounces.\\n3 ounces.\\n2 drachms.\\n5 drops.\\nThere is very little true violet extract upon the mar-\\nket, as the oil is so difficult to obtain, and tons of violet\\nwaters and extracts are annually manufactured which\\nhave not a drop of real violet extract in them, but are\\nmade of orris root. Fictitious extract of violet is easily\\nmade at home.\\nFORMULA FOR FICTITIOUS VIOLET WATER\\nTake of florentine orris root coarsely powdered one and one-half\\npounds rectified spirits, one imperial quart let it stand for a fort-\\nnight. If possible, the orris root should be put under powerful pres-\\nsure to obtain the full amount of perfume which it contains. It must\\nbe filtered several times. Filtering paper is easily obtained at a\\ndruggists.", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0454.jp2"}, "453": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 453\\nThere is no such thing as heliotrope odor made from\\nthe flower. All so-called heliotrope extracts and waters\\nare produced from the vanilla bean as a basis.\\nPotpourri of rose leaves may be prepared according\\nto the following directions Gather the rose petals early\\nin the day, as soon as the dew is dried from them.\\nWhen half a peck is collected, pack down in a jar or\\nbowl, with alternate layers of fine table salt. Cover the\\nvessel with a top or plate that fits closely. Every twenty-\\nfour hours remove the cover from the jar and stir the\\ncontents up well from the bottom. This should be done\\neach day for a week, at the end of which time three\\nounces of allspice may be added. Mix and stir the\\nmass each morning for three days more, adding every day\\na quarter of an ounce each of allspice and ground cin-\\nnamon. Turn the potpourri into the ornamental jar in\\nwhich it is to be kept, and stir into it the following in-\\ngredients, all coarsely powdered One ounce each of cloves,\\ncinnamon, nutmeg, mace, allspice, orange peel, lemon peel,\\nanise seed and root. To the mixture may now be added\\nsix grains of oil of rose geranium, of lavender, rosemary\\nand any other essential oil that is liked. The potpourri\\nmust be allowed to stand for a month to ripen after it is\\nmade. Except when the jar is opened to allow the odor to\\nperfume the house, it must always be kept tightly closed.\\nThe Abuse of Perfumes\\nSome of us, in these days of artificial musk and suffo-\\ncating rose, who have stifled in theater and have been", "height": "4356", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0455.jp2"}, "454": {"fulltext": "454 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\novercome in cable cars and restaurants by the heaviness,\\nhave fervently wished the promiscuous use of these pow-\\nerful, enervating and sometimes nauseating odors, might\\nbe restricted to the boudoirs and drawing rooms whose\\nqueens elect to vulgarize all their surroundings by this\\nand kindred extravagance.\\nFastidious women (with here and there an exception)\\nare as delicately refined in their selection of sweet odors\\nas in every other personal appointment. A high-bred\\nwoman does not associate herself with musk or patchouly.\\nShe may select the most delicate of violet extracts, and\\nso assimilate her personality with the flower as always to\\nrecall it, or her linen may be fragrant with the faintest\\nodor of fliorentine orris. The shadow of the clear pungent\\nlavender may precede her, but the most sensitive and\\nrefined women shrink intuitively from the odors that\\nattract the parvenu.\\nFew people outside the scientific world know the hy-\\ngienic valuo as well as the danger lurking in flower scents.\\nThe effect of musk, rose saffron and almond flowers is al-\\nmost hypnotic to some sensitive organizations. To others\\nthe heavy odors are like strains of sensuous music and in\\ntheir results the reverse of elevating. Hysteria is inevi-\\ntably aggravated and frequently caused by the odor of musk,\\nand the use of this perfume should be forbidden delicate\\ngirls and woman.\\nOn the other hand, the effect of the odors yielded by\\nthe balsams of Peru and Mecca, benzoin tolu, cascarilla and\\ncinnamon are tonic and invigorating. The perfumes pos-\\nsessing real antiseptic qualities are numerous, and it is", "height": "4384", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0456.jp2"}, "455": {"fulltext": "PERFUMES 455\\nan acknowledged fact that until the Egyptians abandoned\\nthe practice of purifying the houses of the sick and em-\\nbalming the dead by the use of aromatic and resinous\\ngums, such as storax, myrrh, cedar, origanum, etc., the ter-\\nrible pestilence never laid the Nile country waste.\\nIt is said that the following aromatic essences will kill\\nbacteria germs in typhoid Clove, verveine, thyme, sandal,\\ncedar, ceylon, cinnamon, camomile, anise and lavender\\nwater, according to Monin, the great French hygienist,\\nwill, if used freely by the attendants, greatly lessen the\\ndanger of contracting contagious maladies.\\nA.--24", "height": "4360", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0457.jp2"}, "456": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX A\\nHOW CATHERINE LANE, A HUMAN WRECK, WAS RESTORED TO HEALTH\\nAND BEAUTY WITHOUT DRUGS OR STIMULANTS OF ANY KIND.\\nHAVE many times declared that the preservation of a woman s\\nbeauty to an indefinite period of life was merely a question\\nof hygiene a knowledge of the laws that govern health\\nand beauty, and a persistent practice of these rules.\\nI have said that, except in cases where there was an\\norganic disease of a wasting nature, there need be no such\\nthing as old age, and that a woman should be at the height\\nof her beauty even at fifty. Some time ago, while delivering\\na lecture, I practically repeated my convictions on this sub-\\nject, and I also said at this time that I had no patience with a pre-\\nmature loss of beauty in a woman unless she were an afllicted\\ncreature, forced to bear the destruction of her loveliness through an\\ninternal and incurable disorder. I said, moreover, that I was pre-\\npared to demonstrate my theory that a woman whose beauty had\\nvanished, if she were willing to do so, could be made over again,\\ncould get back her physical loveliness, and that she could be made\\nstrong and charming, buoyant and blythe by hygienic and common-\\nsense methods.\\nI did not then suspect that in a neighboring city there wa3 a\\nyoung creature, a few years back a charming example of girlish\\nbeauty, who, the day she read in the Sunday World of my lecture,\\n(456)", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0458.jp2"}, "457": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX- 457\\nwas an absolute physical- \\\\^reck a girl of twenty-four, broken down\\nfrom overwork and care, a mere shadow of her former self, with\\nevery vestige of vernal charm lost in the traces of pain that marked\\neach emaciated feature.\\nSo, however, it was that Miss Catherine Lane of Philadelphia,\\nsmiled sadly as she read my words, and, turning to her mother, said\\nI have tried everything else. I wish I could see Mrs. Ayer, and\\nsee if she thinks I could get well and find out what she could do\\nor advise me to do. But Philadelphia is a long way from New\\nYork to a sick girl, and the settled despair that comes from con-\\ntinued suffering soon submerged the momentary gleam of hope that\\nhad flashed through the young mind.\\nNot so with her mother. By the next post I received a long\\nletter from Mrs. Cornelia Lane, telling me of the sad wreck of her\\ndaughter s career, and asking me if I thought, under the circum-\\nstances, anything could really be done for her.\\nThe sufferer s story was not a common one. It was the history\\nof a singularly bright and pretty girl, gifted with dramatic talent\\nwhich found expression when the time came for a daughter to aid\\na mother in earning a living for an entire family whose head had\\nsuddenly been stricken with paralysis. She secured a theatrical en-\\ngagement, making a quiet and continuous success. She played two\\nyears at one metropolitan theater, a year in England, supporting a\\nprominent tragedian, then took first place in stock companies on the\\nroad, appearing in eleven performances a week, with a change of pro-\\ngram every seventh day. This kind of life she led for several years.\\nThen came a gradual breaking-down in health, a failure to appear\\nnow and then because of sheer physical inability, loss of position,\\nmental anxiety added to physical weakness, until at twenty-four the\\nchild who had been the family prop from her seventeenth year was\\na woman prematurely old, an absolute wreck, emaciated to a painful\\ndegree, every trace of beauty gone, and slowly dying, to all appear-\\nances.\\nI was very much impressed with this letter from a broken-hearted\\nmother, and submitted it to the Sunday JVorld. To my intense and\\nhappy surprise, I found the letter evoked the same pity in the jSun-\\nday World. I was told to see the girl, and to give my candid opin-\\nion as to the possibility of restoring her health, I was told that if,", "height": "4352", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0459.jp2"}, "458": {"fulltext": "458 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nafter examining the young woman, I felt there was one chance of\\nher being cured and brought back to her old self, the Sunday\\nJV^orld would furnish the ways and means for such a beneficent end.\\nSo, trembling between fear and hope, I went to Philadelphia to\\nMiss Lane s home. I found the saddest young creature in Catherine\\nLane I ever gazed upon. Tall, slight as a wraith, emaciated to such\\nan extent that it was heartbreaking even to watch her; a blond young\\ncreature, with a great aureole of natural fluffy hair falling about a\\nface which seemed all eyes and cheek bones. My heart sank at the\\nsight of that face. It revived a very little as I caught a certain power\\nof will in the gentle voice that bade me welcome. I talked with the\\ngirl and her mother, discovered that according to her physicians, and\\nshe had been treated by many eminent specialists, she was suffering\\nfrom no organic disease, but that she had been for four years an abso-\\nlute martyr to chronic nervous dyspepsia in a form so obstinate that\\nit had defied medicines and numberless methods of treatment.\\nThen I gave up. Nervous dyspepsia, the most cruel of maladies\\nand the most difficult to conquer But I looked at Catherine Lane,\\nand she raised her great, appealing eyes to mine, and I could not resist\\nthem they were like the eyes of a young, frightened lamb. So I said\\nMiss Lane, I am authorized by the Sunday JVorld to try and restore\\nyou. The fact that you have nervous dyspepsia greatly intimidates\\nme, but if you are willing to confide yourself to my care, if your mother\\nfeels that she can trust you to me, on behalf of the Sunday World I\\ninvite you to come home with me as the Sunday World^s protege, and\\ntry what scientific, rational treatment can do for you, and I, on my part,\\nwill give you such care as I would my own daughter.\\n**I will devote every energy I possess to your recovery. I promise\\nabsolutely nothing. I will do everything, give you the advantage,\\nthrough The IVorld ^s liberality, of every agent now employed in cases\\nsimilar to your own. I cannot advise you.\\nFor three hours mother and daughter consulted together, and at\\nlast Catherine Lane came to me, and putting forth her almost skeleton-\\nlike hand, she said Where would you put me, where shall I have\\nto live? Arid I answered:\\nYou may come to me in my own home if you will.\\nThen the young girl said, looking at me with her sick eyes, Then\\nI accept the Sunday World^s offer with gratitude.", "height": "4364", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0460.jp2"}, "459": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 459\\nSo, with a small handbag as her only luggage, for we had no time\\nto wait to pack a trunk, I brought my little human wreck to New York.\\nWhen we reached the city and my home, my young charge could\\nscarcely get up the stairs. After a warm bath and a bird-like sup-\\nper, I put my new acquaintance into a little white bed, drew the\\ncurtains, shut the great mournful eyes out from my vision, and sat down\\nto collect my thoughts and to finally conclude in the quietness of my\\nown study that I had unquestionably just performed the rashest act\\nof my career.\\nThe girl was a mere skeleton she was sick and had been an in-\\ntense sufferer for four years. She was one of those poor little wrecks\\ndoomed to an early grave, and I was a weak and perhaps wicked woman\\nto suggest to her a hope of restoration.\\nI could not sleep. It was just as well, for about two hours after\\nretiring Miss Lane was taken with an attack of nervous dyspepsia\\nwhich lasted three hours, and was so agonizing even to look upon,\\nthat when it subsided I said to her Did vou ever have such an at-\\ntack before? And she, to my utter horror, replied: Why, yes, I\\nhave a turn like that every night just at this time, and have had for\\nover three years.\\nOnce more I gave up, and the next morning I firmly intended\\ntaking her back to Philadelphia, but when she looked at me and said\\nshe would try hard to get well, she did so want to be her old self\\nagain, once more I resolved to try. I measured her and found that\\nher height was 5 feet 7^ inches, that she weighed 103 pounds, she\\nshould have weighed 150 at least. Her chest measure was 29^ inches,\\nexpansion one-half inch. I now sent for a well-known physician, and\\nhad my little patient thoroughly examined.\\nThe doctor agreed with other physicians in his diagnosis, and said\\nthere was no organic disorder, but the girl was anaemic and weak.\\nHe thought it a question, indeed, if she would recuperate, but he\\nuttered one sentence which brought joy to my heart. He said: That\\ngirl ought to have been a magnificent woman.\\nInwardly I resolved she should have every chance to be a well\\none. After the doctor left, I put my patient to bed. I gave her a\\nlittle food every two hours and a half very easily digested food\\ncereals cooked for hours and hours, koumiss, a very little ripe fruit,\\nhot water only to drink, and absolute quiet.", "height": "4344", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0461.jp2"}, "460": {"fulltext": "460 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe second night, like the first, we wrestled with the nervous dys-\\npepsia, and when the attack was over I felt quite hopeless. The third\\nday I sent for the most skillful woman electrician and masseuse in\\nthe country, according to my own opinion, and Miss Lane was given\\nan electric bath. After the bath, massage, during which she fell asleep\\nand rested delightfully for three hours. I awakened her in fact, fear-\\ning she would become exhausted, and, after taking a bowl of gruel\\nshe fell asleep and slumbered gently for five hours.\\nThen came the dreadful attack, not quite so violent, but terrible\\nindeed again the exhaustion, and we started on the fourth day.\\nMy little wreck was well enough to have her photograph taken,\\nand the very fact that the attack had not been so bad as the night\\nbefore had given her courage, so easily is hope born in the breast of\\nthe young.\\nWe now have a regular regimen which consists principally of food\\nand sleep. I discover that my patient, if she take a little nourish-\\nment of a certain kind, noticeably warm porridge, will shortly after,\\nif left quite alone, go to sleep for half or three-quarters of an hour.\\nI encourage these naps, and a day is passed like this\\nA DAY S Treatment\\n7:00 a. m. ^A bowl of oatmeal porridge, the meal having been\\ncooked for eight hours continuously. It is made thin enough to\\nswallow easily by sweet, rich cream. The patient is left to rest and\\nsleeps until 9 a. m. She is roused, eats the inside of a thoroughly\\nbaked apple, a bit of graham bread and sweet butter and a cup of\\nweak English breakfast tea.\\nAfter this she takes a small teaspoonful of emulsion of cod-liver\\noil. She finds diflSculty in keeping it down, but conquers receives\\na warm sponge bath, is dressed in light, loose, warm clothing, and rests\\nupon a couch near the fire for an hour or two.\\nShe says Do you know when I took that porridge this morn-\\ning it felt just like a poultice in my stomach, so warm and comfort-\\nable, like a hot-water bottle feels^ you know, on the inside when you\\nare sore and in pain.\\nThe day passed quietly, restfully. My little wreck took an airing,\\nmuffled up to her ears, upon the roof. I sent for a cylinder of com-", "height": "4364", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0462.jp2"}, "461": {"fulltext": "s 59", "height": "4348", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0463.jp2"}, "462": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0096\u00a0m^^KT^\\nI\\nCATHERINE LANE INHALING OXYGEN\\n(462)", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0464.jp2"}, "463": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 463\\npressed oxygen for the patient. It came at seven o clock the even-\\ning of the fourth day. She took five inhalations before retiring. She\\nalso had another electric bath at four in the afternoon, and on the\\nfourth night of her stay in my home Miss Catherine Lane for the first\\ntime in three years, skipped her attack of nervous dyspepsia. To be\\nsure, she had all the premonitory symptoms, and we were both awake,\\nI armed with hot water for both external and internal use, she ready\\nfor her customary agony. But behold, it did not come, and the child\\nlay in utter amazement that it could really be possible she was to\\ngo through one night without an attack.\\nThe fifth day of Catherine Lane s stay with me began brightly\\nenough. My patient was given a bowl of rice gruel at 7 a. m. She\\nremained in bed until 9:30; was then given a warm sponge bath,\\nmassage, and ate her breakfast clad in a loose dressing gown thrown\\nover her night robe, so that she might be spared the fatigue of dressing.\\nBreakfast consisted of the inside of a baked apple, a small por-\\ntion of oatmeal, which had been cooking slowly all night long, and\\nwas boiled to a jelly with the oatmeal a little cream and sugar, a\\nsmall cup of weak English breakfast tea and one slice of graham\\nbread, with fresh unsalted butter. After breakfast a spoonful of emul-\\nsion of cod-liver oil, and five inhalations of compressed oxygen. My\\npatient rested an hour and then dressed, drank a glass of koumiss,\\nand, according to previous arrangement, we drove to see four of the\\nsix members of the jury or committee who had consented to express\\nan opinion founded on personal observation of Miss Lane s condition\\nat the beginning, during the progress, and at the termination of the\\nexperiment we were making under the Sunday World^s auspices, in\\nan honest endeavor to create a whole, beautiful girl out of a pitiful\\nhuman wreck.\\nMiss Lane was seen ofi the morning in question by Dr. Sarah\\nFrench Battey, to whom I am much indebted for valuable hygienic\\nsuggestions also by Miss Virginia Hamed, whose glowing beauty\\nmade my poor little proteg^ appear more drawn and harassed by con-\\ntrast, and by that most lovable woman. Miss May Irwin, who radiates\\nhealth both mentally and physically, and also by Miss E. Marguerite\\nLindley, the eminent physical culturist. I am much in Miss Lind-\\nley s debt also for her interest and for a number of hints concerning\\nMiss Lane s treatment, of which I have gladly availed myself.", "height": "4348", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0465.jp2"}, "464": {"fulltext": "464 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThese visits consumed the entire morning, and I took my charge\\nto the Holland House, where she drank a glass of koumiss, ate a\\ndelicious piece of underdone steak and a little roasted potato.\\nWe now drove home, and I saw that Miss Lane was very weary\\nthat in fact she could scarcely walk. I gave my charge a wineglass\\nof koumiss, and put her to bed at once, and she fell asleep, slumber-\\ning peacefully until four o clock, at which time the masseuse and elec-\\ntrician arrived. I roused my patient, gave her a cup of clam bouillon,\\nand turned her over to the masseuse. The electric bath and massage\\nconsumed about two hours more, and the operator, as she came softly\\nfrom my patient s room, said: I have left her sound asleep.\\nAt seven o clock I awakened my charge, and suggested that she\\ntake dinner in bed and not rise again throughout the evening and\\nnight. She acceded, and ate the heart of a well -baked potato, a tiny\\nbit of the breast of a broiled chicken, and a very little well-cooked\\nfarina, with cream and sugar. After this meal which she much rel-\\nished, came the emulsion and five inhalations of oxygen. I covered\\nmy patient well*, tucking an eider down all about her, and leaving just\\nher eyes exposed, I opened the window wide and let the delicious\\ncrisp air fairly swirl about her.\\nI apprehended an attack of the nervous dyspepsia during the night.\\nMiss Lane had been overstrung and half hysterical at intervals during\\nthe latter part of the day. She is a sweet modest girl, and was dis-\\ntressed at the inspection, as she called it, of her poor bones by the\\ncommittee.\\nAt eleven o clock an attack of nervous dyspepsia came on. It was\\nbrief, and not very severe. We did it battle, with hot water taken\\ninternally, and hot-water bags externally. When the paroxysm passed\\noff, as it did in about twenty minutes, Miss Lane, looking as white as\\na spirit, smiled into my face and said: That was a pretty good bluff,\\nwasn t it Five minutes later she was sound asleep. I awakened\\nher about four in the morning, and she drank a cup of oatmeal por-\\nridge, made quite thin, strained, and with about two tablespoonfuls of\\nsweet cream added to it. She fell almost instantly asleep, and rested\\npeacefully until 7:30.\\nI heard her stirring, and asked her if she would like something to\\neat. She replied she thought she would like a cup of weak tea. So\\nI prepared it for her, and added one slice of graham bread, with a", "height": "4364", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0466.jp2"}, "465": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 465\\nlittle unsalted butter. She said it tasted so good and slept again.\\nThe most wonderful and encouraging thing about this girl was her\\ncapacity for sleep. She said herself that she did nothing but eat and\\nsleep, and it was literally true.\\nShe took not one atom of medicine except the emulsion of cod-\\nliver oil, yet she certainly slept sixteen hours out of the twenty-four,\\nat this period, and it was the repose of a child, gentle, calm, and with\\na complete relaxation of the whole body. While she thus rested,\\nevery line of pain disappeared from her face. There was a little flush\\non her cheeks, and her lips were rosy. When she was awake she\\nwas wide awake, and as bright as a bird but after half an hour or\\nso she would stretch and yawn and say apologetically I really feel\\nashamed of myself, but I am just as sleepy as I can be.\\nMiss Lane had been with me now one week and a day. She had\\ngained one pound and three-quarters in weight. The dyspepsia was\\nunquestionably on the mend. She had not had an attack at all since\\nthe one she called the bluff, the day after she was examined by the\\njury and that night she slept from eleven o clock until 7 A. m. At\\nthat hour I myself aroused her, as I felt she must have something to\\neat. In fact, I fed her as frequently as I thought she could bear it,\\ngiving her but little nourishment at a time, but giving it frequently.\\nUnfortunately, she could not take a milk diet. Her poor, worn-out\\nstomach rebelled against milk in any form. So I substituted koumiss,\\nwhich she digested readily, and liked very much.\\nCream dilated with hot water she bore fairly well, and I added it,\\nwhen I could, to her cereals. She took no drugs or stimulants of any\\ndescription no malt extracts, wines, cordials, nothing of this nature.\\nHer diet was made up of cereals cooked from five to eight hours un-\\nderdone porterhouse steaks, chops, mutton and beef, spring chickens,\\npartridges, roasted potatoes and apples, both of which agreed with her\\nwonderfully well. There were several other signs of improvement other\\nthan the breaking off of the paroxysm of dyspepsia, which had been a\\nnightly occurrence for three years.\\nMy little housemaid said to me Miss Lane doesn t keep her hands\\non her side any more, does she It is true that she rarely held her\\nleft hand in any other position she was always in pain, and involun-\\ntarily the wasted little hand was pressed against the sore spot. Of\\ncourse she was still dreadfully emaciated. Just think of a girl 5 feet", "height": "4352", "width": "2716", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0467.jp2"}, "466": {"fulltext": "466 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\n7J inches nigh, measuring 29 inches around her hips, 10^ around the\\ncalf of her leg the largest part of her arm above the elbow measured\\n7J inches scant the largest part between the elbow and wrist 7^ inches\\nwrist, scant 5^.\\nThe most astonishing improvement was in her breathing. When\\nMiss Lane first took, or tried to take, a deep breath, it was a most\\npitiful little gasp. She made several efforts to breathe from the dia-\\nphragm, but simply could not accomplish it. I therefore sent for the\\ncompressed oxygen the improvement in her breathing was positively\\namazing. She now took long, deep inhalations, her chest expanding\\nin a remarkable manner. She had not been able, she said, to draw a\\nlong breath for years, because it hurt her side so cruelly. Now she\\nbreathed from the diaphragm a long, clear, rhythmic inhalation and\\nexpulsion, and again, to use her own language, which to me expresses\\nso much more clearly her feelings than any words of my own could,\\nsomething was loosened there, for she feels the oxysfen clear down\\nto her stomach, and does not know that she ever had a sore side.\\nMiss Lane was not on any particular diet. I was just feeling my\\nway along. She took all the cereals either in porridge, gruel, or jel-\\nlied form. She could not take anything cold in her stomach without\\ndistress, so I gave her everything warm. Later, she craved meat.\\nThat seemed to me an indication for it, and I cooked it myself, either\\nbeef or mutton, broiling it with the utmost care, and giving her a\\nsmall bit at a time, never so well done that the blood did not follow\\nthe knife beef tea made from the blood pressed out of juicy steak,\\nclam bouillon, chicken and mutton broth.\\nI offered her occasionally she alternated her gruels and porridges)\\nroasted apples and potatoes, celery, and the juice of a very fine sweet\\norange. She digested all these things without discomfiture.\\nMiss Lane passed her second week of hygienic life peacefully\\nand painlessly. She gained in flesh during that period two pounds,\\nmaking 3| pounds gained in the first two weeks she was under my\\ncare.\\nThe following is a full and accurate statement by days of Miss\\nLane s treatment at this time:\\nSaturday, March 6th, 7:00 A. m. Awakened my patient, and gave\\nher five ounces Indian meal porridge, previously boiled five hours, di-\\nluted with sweet cream and salted. Slept until nine o clock.", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0468.jp2"}, "467": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 467\\n9:00 A. M. Warm sponge bath with friction afterward.\\n9:80- Breakfast, heart of roasted apple, inside of baked Bermuda\\npotato, small cup about two and one-half ounces of weak English\\nbreakfast tea, one slice graham bread, unsalted butter, tablespoonful\\noatmeal boiled five hours with cream and sugar.\\n10:15 Tablespoonful of emulsion of cod-liver oil.\\n10:30 Deep-breathing exercises for five minutes; rest until\\neleven o clock.\\n11:00\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Four ounces of koumiss; rest until twelve o clock.\\n12:00 M. Patient is wrapped up warmly, takes a fresh-air and sun\\nbath either in sitting room or upon the roof. Occasionally she goes\\nfor a short walk.\\n12:45 P.M.- Luncheon: About three ounces underdone steak, which\\npatient does not swallow; roasted potato, cup of hot water, boiled rice\\nwith cream and sugar, juice of a large, ripe navel orange. After\\nluncheon one tablespoonful of emulsion of cod-liver oil. Rest until\\ntwo o clock.\\n2:00 Four ounces koumiss.\\n2:15 Deep-breathing exercises for five minutes; dumb-bells for\\nfive minutes.\\n2:30 Rest until four o clock.\\n4:00 Two ounces of beef tea.\\n4:10 Electric bath or Swedish movements.\\n5:00 Massage; rest until half -past six o clock.\\n6:30 Dinner: Three ounces underdone mutton, which patient does\\nnot swallow; roasted potato with cream, two slices graham bread, un-\\nsalted butter, celery, a glass of mineral water heated, farina made into\\na jelly, sweetened and served with rich cream. After dinner one table-\\nspoonful of emulsion of cod-liver oil.\\n7:30 Deep-breathing exercises for five minutes; Indian clubs five\\nminutes.\\n7:45 Four ounces koumiss.\\n8:00 Miss Lane wrapped up well, rested upon a couch, and, with\\njust her nose and eyes exposed, was treated to a fresh-air bath; all the\\nwindows were opened and remained so for half an hour.\\n9:00 Patient prepared for bed; sponge bath; four ounces koumiss;\\nrested quietly until eleven o clock.\\n11:00 Five ounces oatmeal porridge.", "height": "4348", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0469.jp2"}, "468": {"fulltext": "468 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nFor the first time in three years Miss Lane ventured to swallow\\nabout a wineglass of cool, still, mineral water the other day. She said\\nto me: I do so crave a drink of cool water. It s three years since I ve\\ntasted a mouthful of anything cold. Do you think I might venture?\\nWhy yes, I answered. Try a mouthful. So I got her a tiny\\nglass of delicious Waukesha water. She drank it. Then we both\\nsat and looked at each other, waiting for something to happen.\\nThere was not the slightest disturbance. Then we smiled in each\\nother s faces, and the little wreck said with a voice like the chirp\\nof a bird:\\nIsn t it too lovely for anything? Do you suppose I ll really get\\nso I can drink water just like other people? Oh, Mrs. Ayer, how\\ncan I ever thank the Sunday World? Why, I have just pined for\\nso long for one good, big drink of cold water but if I really took\\nit, I knew I should almost die of pain for hours after.\\nI am not easily moved, but when I see a human being so hum-\\nbly grateful to be able to swallow a few drops of cool water, when\\nI see a young creature s eyes fill with happy tears because she can\\ndraw a long breath again without distress, when I hear my little pa-\\ntient exclaim as I roused her morning after morning, Oh, how deli-\\ncious! Another night without pain, I found a lump in my throat\\nand a sudden necessity for changing the subject or getting away for\\na few minutes.\\nMiss Lane alternated her electric treatment with massage and\\nSwedish movements. She took one or the other each day. She was\\non no particular diet. I gave her, as far as possible, the food she\\ncraved. At this period, she ate a number of things she could not\\ndigest when she came to me. Eggs and milk were like poison to her.\\nShe was debarred also from many vegetables. Birds, poultry and\\ncertain kinds of fish she substituted occasionally for beef and mut-\\nton, but generally speaking she preferred the two latter meats to any\\nother food of this nature. She consumed several small bottles of kou-\\nmiss each day, substituted clam bouillon or oyster broth for beef tea\\nwhenever she felt inclined. She drank a few mouthfuls of cool Wau-\\nkesha water daily. She slept a great deal almost as much as an\\ninfant.\\nCatherine Lane was certainly getting well. She had taken neither\\ndrugs nor stimulants to the extent of one drop since she was intrusted", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0470.jp2"}, "469": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 469\\nto my care. Her restoration was brought about entirely through\\ncare, nursing and physical culture, including massage and elec-\\ntricity.\\nShe had now gained six pounds and three-quarters in weight. She\\nhad not had a paroxysm of pain of any description for nearly two\\nweeks. She ate and assimilated the simple food given to her, took\\nher sun and fresh-air baths daily.\\nWhen she first came to me, she could walk only a few steps with-\\nout a shortness of breath which caused her great pain in her side.\\nShe walked now ten blocks without fatigue. She had not drawn a\\nlong breath without pain for years, when she became the Sunday\\nWorld s patient. She now takes deep, full inspirations from the dia-\\nphragm, and has not had recourse to the compressed oxygen for\\nnearly ten days.\\nI now added spinach, very well cooked and strained, to her bill of\\nfare. There was not the slightest sign of discomfort. Then I pre-\\npared some Long Island asparagus, which she did not swallow. With\\nthese additions, the dietary remained the same.\\nWhen Miss Lane came to me, she weighed 103 pounds. Four\\nweeks later she weighed 116. When she began her life of hygiene\\nas the Sunday World s patient, she could not walk three blocks with-\\nout fatigue. She now walked twenty blocks a day, and could walk\\nmuch further, were she permitted.\\nPhysical culture, gymnastics, exercises with dumb-bells and clubs of\\nthe lightest weight have been of such marked benefit to my patient,\\nthat I took her to the most eminent master of fencing in this citv\u00c2\u00bb\\nProfessor Regis Senac, where Miss Lane took her first lesson in fencing\\nI was more pleased, I believe, than the pupil, when Professor Senac\\nvolunteered the statement that Miss Lane had such a steady band\\nthat she would make a capital fencer, for Miss Lane, five weeks he\\nfore, could scarcely raise a teacup to her mouth, her hand trembled so.\\nWhen our patient suffered her attack of nervous dyspepsia, the\\nfirst night of her stay with me, she told me she found relief only in\\nhot water. She has never suffered from one of these attacks since\\nthe first electric bath.\\nThe left arm, which had not been warm for nearly three years,\\nis now the same temperature as the right. The moisture has gone,\\nand the Little palm is cool and perfectly dry.", "height": "4356", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0471.jp2"}, "470": {"fulltext": "470 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nWatching Catherine Lane flitting about my home the last week\\nof her stay, her graceful figure expressing in its alertness the joy of\\nyouth and health, it seemed truly inconceivable that this was the girl\\nfor whom I so recently undertook to care. It was impossible then\\nto interest her in anything. It is almost equally difficult now to\\nkeep her quiet. She is at present really interested in anything and\\neverything, and making plans for future work and usefulness, for\\nCatherine Lane must earn her own living and assist in the support\\nof others.\\nREPORTS OF THE JURY\\nTo the Editor of The World:\\nMiss Lane has improved very much. I was surprised and greatly\\npleased by her appearance when she was brought to me at the end\\nof the Sunday World^s experiment. She is now evidently in excel-\\nlent health, and there is no reason why the improvement should not\\nbe permanent. With care and a continuation of sensible, healthful\\nmethods of life, she should be a useful, healthful, happy woman for\\nmany years to oome.\\nLouise Fiske Beyson, M. D.\\nThe Gramercy, 34 Gramercy Park,\\nNew Yobk.\\nTo the Editor of The World:\\nThe age of miracles is not passed. How else can I view the Miss\\nLane of a few short weeks ago and the glorious changed Miss Lane\\nof to-day. I have always felt that environment had so much to do\\ntoward helping or retarding an invalid in her efforts to get well, that\\nI was prepared to know that Mrs. Ayer could work wonders, but I\\ncan only say she has almost worked a miracle. The world is full of\\nwomen like Miss Lane, and I hope and pray that The World will\\ncarry on its noble work in the manner it proposes, by establishing a\\nhome where rest can be had for time to recover health and desire to\\nlive.\\nI think the grandest work done by man, woman, club or society,\\nis when it helps a discouraged, weary human being to help herself.\\nWhen I look at Miss Lane to-day, and then let my memory go\\nback to the third day of her rest, how can I realize that in so short\\na time has been wrought such a change from an emaciated, pale\\ngirl to a healthy, happy, hopeful woman\\nI repeat, when I look back and know what has been done, I am\\nlost in admiration for the noble work of Mrs. Ayer and the JSun-", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0472.jp2"}, "471": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 471\\nday World. In Miss Lane s recovery, they have built up a monument\\nof prayer. More things are w^rought by prayer than this world\\ndreams of. And may the answer be health, wealth and prosperity to\\nthe Neio York World.\\nBertha Welby.\\nNo, 146 West Twenty-third St.,\\nNew York.\\nTo the Editor of The World\\nCatherine Lane has certainly improved greatly during the six weeks\\nof hygienic living. She is apparently in perfect health.\\nYours truly,\\nSarah A. French Battey, M. D.\\nNo. 124-126 West Thirty-sixth St.,\\nNew Yobk.\\nTo the Editor of The World\\nI desire to congratulate Mrs. Ayer on her success with Miss Lane,\\nand in behalf of the profession of physical training, thank her for her\\nhelp in proving that a delicate physique can be built up through a\\nproper application of natural remedies, as fresh air, systematic exer-\\ncise and massage to localize blood current in weak tissues, simple\\nfood in small quantities and at frequent, regular intervals, and rest.\\nNature is a kind mother if we but respect her desires, and Mrs.\\nAyer has certainly honored her demands by studying what of her\\nlaws had been disobeyed in the case of Miss Lane.\\nI am happy to have been personally concerned in this case, and\\nto report a most complete improvement. I consider a thorough founda-\\ntion for permanency of power is now laid, and except overwork is\\nallowed, the next three months will show marvelous gain in health\\nand avoirdupois from the impetus your care and methods have estab-\\nlished. The human plant, like those of the vegetable kingdom, will\\nassert its rightful proportions if properly cultivated.\\nE. Marguerite Lindley,\\nProfessor of Physical Culture.\\nMurray Hill Hotel,\\nNew York.\\nTo the Editor of The Worla:\\nMiss Lane called on me this afternoon, and if I had met her on\\nthe street I would not have known her, she has improved so. It\\nseems almost incredible that in so short a time Mrs. Ayer could ac-\\ncomplish so much. She ought to be very proud of her work.\\nYours sincerely,\\nMay Irwin.\\nNew York, April 6.", "height": "4360", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0473.jp2"}, "472": {"fulltext": "472 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCATHERINE LANE S LETTER OF THANKS FOR HER CURE\\nTo the Editor of The World:\\nMy six weeks of treatment under the care of the Sunday World now\\nbeing finished, I wish to express my gratitude for the benefit derived\\nfrom it. After four years of suffering and discomfort, my health has\\nbeen so restored, by the liberality of The World and the kind ministra-\\ntions of Mrs. Ayer, that I am able once again to take up a place in the\\nworld other than that of an invalid. I feel that no expense has been\\nspared by The World to give me every advantage that money could\\nbuy and Mrs. Ayer s rare knowledge of nature and intuition could\\nsuggest. The food, daintily cooked by Mrs. Ayer s own hands, the\\nmassage, electricity, and, above all, the mental atmosphere of perfect\\nrest and the manner in which I have been made to feel that all trouble\\ntaken for my benefit was but a pleasure, have all combined to make a\\nwell and hopeful girl out of a discouraged invalid. I can never cease\\nto be grateful for my good fortune in having become the object of The\\nWorld 8 humane experiment. The many pathetic letters received by\\nMrs. Ayer from other such girls and women have filled me with the\\ndeepest sympathy and I can only hope that my experience may become\\nthe foundation stone of a rest cure by means of which other unfortunate\\ngirls in the same position may recover health and usefulness.\\nGratefully yours,\\nCatherine Lane.\\nDuring the last week of Catherine Lane s stay with me, Mrs. Lane\\ncame to visit her daughter. After three days she left. Taking my\\nhand in hers, and with tears streaming down her face, she handed me\\na letter which she asked me to give to the Sunday World, It was\\nas follows\\nTo the Editor of The World\\nIt seems to me that the age of miracles has come back when I\\nlook at my dear child and see her so well, so bright and so happy,\\nand remember in what despair I wrote to Mrs. Ayer only six weeks\\nago about her apparently hopeless condition. I can scarcely believe\\nthat my daughter is the girl Mrs. Ayer took from our little home, so\\nsick and so discouraged.\\nOnly a mother can know the anguish I have endured in seeing my\\ndear child suffer as she has done every hour for over three years. I\\nthought I had done all that could be done for her, and I saw nothing\\nbut an early grave for my sweet daughter, but it seems I was very\\nignorant.\\nI had no way of knowing of all those wonderful things I mean\\nelectricity and the Swedish gymnastics that have made her strong", "height": "4364", "width": "2888", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0474.jp2"}, "473": {"fulltext": "CATHERINE LANE AT THE END OF SIX WEEKS TREATMENT\\n(473)", "height": "4344", "width": "2712", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0475.jp2"}, "474": {"fulltext": "CATHERINE LANE TWO YEARS AFTER\\nIN PERFECT HEALTH SEE LETTER, PAGE 476\\n(474)", "height": "4356", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0476.jp2"}, "475": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 475\\nand well. I have been at Mrs. Ayer s now for two days, and have\\nseen the different treatments Catherine is taking, and I have watched\\nMrs. Ayer herself prepare the delicious food which has formed hei\\ndiet. Certainly no girl ever received greater and more intelligent and\\nlavish care.\\nI wish I could think of some way of expressing my gratitude to\\nthe Sunday World. I cannot. How can a mother find words to ex\\npress her happiness in the restoration of her child? I can only pra}\\nthat the Sunday World may receive the reward its generosity and\\nkindness merit.\\nCornelia Lane.\\nAbout a year after her treatment, I received the following letter\\nfrom Miss Catherine Lane\\nChicago, Jan. 1st.\\nDear Mrs. Ayer We shall be in New York next week at the\\nGrand Opera House. I long for an opportunity to see you again, and\\nI want also to exhibit myself, for if I am not a miracle, then never\\nwas one effected. It seems simply incredible to me that I ever could\\nhave been the girl whom you took home last winter, and when I look\\nback upon the torture I endured for so long, I wonder that it can be\\nso easy to forget such exquisite pain as I have suffered for so many\\nyears. I wonder if you would recognize the Catherine Lane who\\ncould not eat a mouthful without agony after, in the girl who has\\nbroken the record for consuming pie in this company Truly, no one\\nwill believe at all that I have ever had any acquaintance with dys-\\npepsia. We have been traveling all winter, and I have eaten all kinds\\nof food at all hours of the day and night. My digestive apparatus\\nwould seem to merit a Sandow physique. Nothing that I have yet\\nencountered intimidates me. I sleep just as much as I can. I am\\nonly limited by my duties. After the play I go to bed, and fall into\\na perfectly restful slumber, and if I were not awakened, I really think\\nI should sleep ten hours at a stretch. I have been playing eight\\ntimes a week all season, rehearsing besides, and I am never con-\\nscious of fatigue. I have never been so well in my life. You recol-\\nlect how pessimistic I was about myself when I came to you, so sick\\nand discouraged not quite a year ago, and perhaps you remember\\nthat after I really had recovered I used to say that either a miracle\\nhad been performed or else you had exercised some mental control\\nover me, because the whole thing seemed so wonderful? When I realize\\nhow desperately ill I was, and when I remember what the doctors told\\nme and how I was cured by rest, care and nursing, and without one\\nparticle of medicine, I feel that I really do owe my life to the Sun-\\nday World. I was very sensitive about my real identity being\\nknown while I was the Sunday World^s patient. It seems to me\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u009425", "height": "4348", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0477.jp2"}, "476": {"fulltext": "476 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nnow that I can express my gratitude better by letting the Sunday\\nWorld readers know who the girl really is who owes so much to\\nthe great paper, so if you like you may tell the Sunday World\\nreaders that the Catherine Lane who was your patient, and who is\\nalways your grateful friend, is no other than yours affectionately,\\nLillian Daily.\\nTwo years after her treatment. Miss Lane wrote me from Indianapolis,\\nInd., where she was playing leading parts in the best stock company\\nin the city, as follows\\nMarch, 99.\\nDear Mrs. Ayer Just a line to tell you again that I am perfectly\\nwell, and that I am getting on in every way capitally. I send you a\\npicture taken a very few days ago. It doesn t look very much like the\\nCatherine Lane who was your little human wreck, does it The more\\nI think about it, and the longer I continue well and strong, the more I\\nshall insist that you performed a miracle. Do write me when you can,\\nand accept the picture with the love of\\nYour faithful friend,\\nLillian Daily.\\nNote. Of course Miss Lane s ease was exceptional in that she was a terrible sufferer\\nfrom nervous dyspepsia. Hence the resort to electrical treatment, massage and compressed\\noxygen. While all of these are beneficial they are not essential in ordinary cases of thin-\\nness or even emaciation, which invariably improve with proper fat-forming food, plenty\\nof exercise, plenty of sleep and quiet, restful surroundings. This is Nature s remedy she\\nmade us, knows our needs and will keep us whole, sound and fair proportioned if we\\nfollow her rational regimen instead of flying in her face.", "height": "4364", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0478.jp2"}, "477": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 6\\nHOW MARTHA BAKER WAS CURED OF OBESITY WITHOUT DRUGS\\nN July, 1897, Mrs. Martha Baker placed herself in my care to\\nbe reduced in flesh without recourse to drugs or medicines\\nof any description. The following is my report of Mrs. Ba-\\nker s, treatment as originally printed in the Sunday JVorld\\nMrs. Baker is five feet, five and a half inches tall, and\\nweighs 205 pounds. At the time her treatment was begun,\\nher waist measured thirty-five inches. She was thirty-two\\nyears old, and measured fifty-five inches around her hips.\\nShe is a brunette with perfectly regular features, lovely\\nskin texture, beautiful eyes, teeth white and even as pearls, and an\\nabundance of waving dark-brown hair. She would have been a no-\\nticeably beautiful woman were she not encumbered with superfluous\\nflesh.\\nThere is, in my opinion, only one wholesome method of eliminating\\nfat. It consists of a diet which should be selected to sustain the mus-\\ncular system without creating unnecessary adipose tissue. We all know\\nthat fat is carbon, and that oxygen alone will consume carbon. When\\nwe take into the body a lot of food which contains carbon, or the\\nelements of carbon, the only way we can properly dispose of it is to\\nburn it out by exercise violent enough to oxygenate the blood and\\nthus absorb the carbon. The more of the fat-forming food we eat, the\\nmore exercise we must take, if we do not wish to result in an ac-\\ncumulation of fat. Unfortunately, as the flesh-forming habit increases,\\n(477)", "height": "4336", "width": "2692", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0479.jp2"}, "478": {"fulltext": "478 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthe disposition to stir about or take exercise decreases, and the results\\nare seen every day in the men or women of positively monstrous pro-\\nportions who drag out an existence which is really a burden to them.\\nMrs. Baker s dimensions at the beginning of treatment were as\\nfollows\\nHeight, 5 feet 5J inches.\\nBust, 45 inches.\\nWaist, 35 inches.\\nWrist, 6^ inches.\\nArm, 15J inches at the largest part, 11 between elbow and wrist.\\nNeck, 16J inches.\\nHips, 55 inches.\\nIt is impossible for a woman of Mrs. Baker s size to begin at once\\nto take any violent exercise. The weight of her body is so far out of\\nproportion to the proper weight her feet should carry that she could\\nnot do much walking. Her feet are not strong enough to support\\nsuch a monstrous weight.\\nFor the first two or three weeks of her treatment, I depended more\\nupon diet than physical exercise. Having ascertained, as the result of\\na physician s examination, that she had no organic disorder, and that\\nher heart was in very excellent condition, considering the fat surround-\\ning it, she began her treatment by abstaining from all sweet and\\nstarchy foods.\\nHer bill of fare for the first week consisted of underdone beef and\\nmutton, shellfish, vegetables without starch or sugar, such as lettuce,\\nradishes, tomatoes, cucumbers, all kinds of ripe fruit without sugar in\\nany form one cup of weak English breakfast tea a day, hot water\\nseveral times each day, gluten bread, toasted, to which she added a little\\nsalt to take the place of butter.\\nThe articles of diet she positively dared not touch were, first of all,\\nstarchy foods, such as cereals, macaroni in any shape, beets, peas, beans,\\nrice, tapioca, barley, wheat in any form excepting in the bread already\\nspoken of, butter, cheese, cream, milk, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, all desserts,\\nall ices, sweet drinks and so-called soft drinks, including the insidious\\nice-cream soda. She did not touch nuts or sweetened fruits of any kind,\\nnor did she eat of hearty soups.\\nShe ate three meals a day, breakfasting about eight, at which repast\\nshe took a cup of weak tea, perhaps two slices of toasted gluten bread", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0480.jp2"}, "479": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 479\\nwith a little salt, some fresh fruit, a couple of soft-boiled eggs, and a\\nlittle broiled steak or a mutton chop.\\nAfter her breakfast she took a short walk. It was with the greatest\\neffort that she walked three blocks. At the end of that time she was so\\ntired that she was really unable to take another step, and suffered very\\nmuch from pain in her feet and ankles.\\nAt noon she ate from the list given above, without any special refer-\\nence to quantity. Of course she took no alcohol or stimulants of any\\nkind.\\nHer third meal, about six o clock, consisted of fruits, toasted bread\\nand salt, salad or green vegetables, and meat. I did not care to have\\nher eat meat three times a day, but many people who give up sweet\\nand starchy foods feel that they must eat very much more meat to\\ntake the place of other food which they have relinquished.\\nOne of the greatest aids to the accumulation of jflesh is sleep,\\nwhich is a habit, and becomes a fixed one with many stout people.\\nThe nerves are so covered with the padding of fat that the result\\nis one of almost torpor. During treatment, Mrs. Baker slept seven\\nhours and no more in the twenty-four. She promised to take no\\nnaps during the day, and kept her promise.\\nSo far as any other rules are concerned, for the first week or more\\nMrs. Baker simply adhered to the diet, and took a warm bath each\\nnight, followed by a cold plunge. She took a cold rub each morn-\\ning. She took no medicines of any form or description.\\nJuly 7th, 1897:\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nOn the seventh day of her treatment for reduction in weight, Mrs.\\nBaker was weighed. She tipped the scales at exactly 197^ pounds,\\nshowing a decrease in weight of 1^ pounds in seven days. This is\\nvery remarkable under the circumstances, as Mrs. Baker has taken\\nalmost no exercise whatever. She had not walked on an average, three\\nblocks a day.\\nThe lesson to be derived from this week s treatment is plain\\nenough. Mrs. Baker has abstained from the food that makes fat.\\nAs a result she is adding nothing, but is now exhausting each day a\\ncertain amount of the fatty tissues which are still in such abundance.\\nHer treatment has been as follows\\nShe arises at about seven, takes a cold sponge bath, and immediately\\nafter has breakfast. Her morning meal for the last week has consisted", "height": "4352", "width": "2720", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0481.jp2"}, "480": {"fulltext": "480 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nof one cup of English breakfast tea (without milk or sugar), two soft-\\nboiled eggs, two slices of toasted gluten bread, with a little salt, two\\nlamb chops underdone, and fruit in season (as much as she cared to eat).\\nAfter breakfast she has busied herself about her home, religiously re-\\nfraining from lying down and from everything tending to induce sleep,\\nwhich is a disease with most fat people.\\nAt noon she has eaten roast beef or mutton or broiled steak (under-\\ndone), two or three kinds of vegetables, spinach, tomatoes, cabbage\\nand a salad dressing without oil. At this meal she has taken one or\\ntwo glasses of hot water, and for dessert she has had ripe fruit, with-\\nout sugar. She has also eaten toasted gluten bread, without butter.\\nHer evening meal consisted mainly of fruits, with toasted bread, as\\nshe has found the weath^ too warm for eating meat three times a day.\\nHot Water, No Tea\\nMrs. Baker has had hot water at night in place of tea. This bill of\\nfare has been almost of daily repetition, but, singularly enough, my\\npatient is not in the least tired of the diet. On the contrary, she is in\\na state of most exuberant spirits. She is convinced that she has adopted\\nthe right system, and as she is an extremely intelligent woman and has\\nsplendid will power, there is not the slightest doubt in my mind of her\\nsuccess. It requires persistence to complete the obesity cure success-\\nfully.\\nWe have made one attempt at bicycle riding only, and that one\\nwas not very successful. I have felt that the weather was too\\nwarm for a woman of her bulk to take such exercise, and the one\\nbicycle lesson resulted in such fatigue, and in so much suffering\\nfrom the soreness of unused muscles that we have relinquished the\\nbicycle until the weather moderates.\\nMrs. Baker s average woman acquaintances would not notice her\\ndecrease in facial flesh at present. She would immediately, how-\\never, notice the difference in her size around the hips. The de-\\ncrease, however, has been a symmetrical one. I find my patient\\nto-day measures but fifty-one inches around the hips, showing a loss\\nof four inches. This is a great deal, but not more than should be\\nexpected from the diet. Her neck is one-half inch smaller. Her", "height": "4364", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0482.jp2"}, "481": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 481\\nwaist has decreased three inches, the bust an inch and a half. There\\nis no appreciable difference in the arm and wrist.\\nMrs. Baker takes a hot scrub at night, a cold plunge afterwards,\\nand allows herself but seven hours of sleep. She says she already\\nfeels like a new creature, and she begins now to understand what\\na tremendous detriment her superfluous flesh has been how it has\\nweio*hed her down both mentally and physically. If the weather\\nwere not so unpropitious it would be difficult to restrain her, for\\nshe shows every desire to really do more than I wish in following\\nthe treatment.\\nThere is no reason why any fat woman or man, for that matter,\\nshould not reduce the weight until a proper one is reached, by follow-\\ning this method, which consists, as I have said before, of merely ceas-\\ning to supply fat-forming food to the system.\\nNo Fear of III Effects\\nIn reply to many letters received since last Sunday s publication of\\nMrs. Baker s case letters which it is impossible for me to answer spe-\\ncifically I am glad to say that there is no fear of ill effects from this\\ntreatment. As a matter of fact, most people really eat too much, and\\nthe hardiest races in the world are the races living in the mountains,\\nwhere one never sees a fat man or woman. The reason for this is that\\nmountain climbing, which is a very arduous physical exercise, oxygenates\\nthe blood rapidly, and this oxygenation burns out all superfluous fat.\\nIt is like the bellows fanning the fire.\\nMrs. Baker is, of course, far in excess of her proper weight. She\\nshould not be much heavier than 150 pounds. There is no reason, in\\nmy opinion, why she should not reduce herself to a weight which shall\\nmake her a symmetrical woman, and inasmuch as the only obstacle to\\nher being a beautiful woman is her superfluous flesh, I shall endeavor\\nto have her continue the treatment until she has so nearly approached\\nthe weight that both she and I will be satisfied, or until she has the\\nsystem so well in hand herself that she no longer needs my direction.", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0483.jp2"}, "482": {"fulltext": "482 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nNo Medicines Used\\nI wish to make a point of the fact that Mrs. Baker takes no\\nmedicines or purgatives of any description. She will, of course,\\nabstain from alcohol or wines or soft drinks. There is nothing so\\ninsidious and so certain to make an unwholesome excess of flabby fat\\nas the thousand and one sweet drinks to which the women of this coun-\\ntry are so much addicted.\\nIt may seem to many readers almost like tyranny to suggest hot\\nwater at this time of the year. ^As a matter of fact, it will be found\\nthat the hot water does not make one any warmer. It will quench the\\nthirst, it stimulates gastric action, and less of it is required than when\\none indulges in iced water.\\nMrs. Baker is carefully following the rules laid down for her, which\\ninclude a positive abstinence from all starchy and sweet food, such as all\\ncereals, breads of every description, excepting gluten bread vegetables,\\nsuch as potatoes, beans, corn, beets, peas, eggplant milk, butter, cheese,\\ncream, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, all desserts, excepting ripe fruits, nuts of\\nall kinds in fact, anything that contains starch or sugar. It is a mis-\\ntaken idea to suppose that one will starve upon the diet advised in this\\ntreatment, although I admit it is limited, but when one is really hungry\\none can eat of the food such as Mrs. Baker is now eating, and the won-\\nderful benefits physically derived from the reduction in flesh, the renewal\\nof energy and the activity in every way, will more than repay.\\nJuly 16th. Mrs. Baker, at the end of her second week s treatment,\\nwas weighed. She brought the scales down at exactly 193^ pounds.\\nWhen her treatment began, she weighed 205 pounds. During the first\\nweek she lost seven and a half pounds. I consider a continuous loss\\nof three pounds and a half a week about the proper amount of re-\\nduction.\\nIn the treatment of an obese patient the change of diet is of\\ncourse a radical one, and the first week or ten days the patient usu-\\nally loses about double the amount of flesh, or rather decreases in\\nweight to that extent as compared with the week following.\\nThe most noticeable change is around the hips and abdomen. Mrs.\\nBaker s original measurements, as taken for this experiment, showed\\nthat she was fifty-five inches around the hips. She had lost nine\\n\u00e2\u0099\u00a6August, 1897.", "height": "4360", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0484.jp2"}, "483": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 483\\ninches in circumference, and already she finds it difficult to walk in\\nher ordinary skirts. A gown that she wore the day I first measured\\nher now trails on the floor all around. For the first week there was\\nlittle change in the measurements, except around the bust. In fact the\\nbust measurement, which decreased two inches, and the neck half an\\ninch, were the only noticeable variations in the measurement. But this\\nweek tells a different story. There is a difference of over an inch in\\nthe neck measurement.\\nThe waist measure has not changed from last week and is thirty-\\ntwo inches, showing a decrease of three inches around the waist since\\nthe beginning of the treatment.\\nFor the first ten days there was no noticeable difference in the\\nface, but on Monday morning, when I took Mrs. Baker s photograph,\\nthere was a very marked change. The flesh is falling away from the\\nupper part of the face as well as about the chin and throat. For\\nyears Mrs, Baker has never attempted to wear a close collar. She\\nnow wears a fifteen and a half inch collar with perfect ease.\\nShe now walks twelve blocks a day, takes bicycle lessons, and her\\nwhole manner is so changed that it is almost a miracle to her friends.\\nShe tells me that she constantly meets people whom she knows and\\nwho voluntarily express their surprise at the improvement of her ap-\\npearance, and remark upon her unusual physical activity.\\nWhat She Eats\\nThe daily routine has been changed very little. .The Sunday World\\npatient continues to rise at about seven in the morning her breakfast\\nconsists of gluten bread, a cup of weak English breakfast tea, without\\nsugar or milk, as much ripe fruit as she chooses to eat, and, as she\\nsays she is so hungry, she also now eats a bit of underdone steak or\\na chop in the morning. The bread is no longer toasted. My patient\\nis making progress rapidly enough without the aid of the toasted\\nbread, and now eats the gluten bread with a little salt in place of\\nbutter, and as much as she feels inclined.\\nThe diet for the second meal has also been slightly changed.\\nWhen she chooses to do so, Mrs. Baker now eats any one of a num-\\nber of vegetables, or two or three of them, if she feel disposed. Of", "height": "4352", "width": "2740", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0485.jp2"}, "484": {"fulltext": "484 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\ncourse these are all selected for her, and are not of the starchy or sug-\\nary order.\\nIt is wonderful to see in so short a time the difference in the ex-\\npression of our patient s face. It has gained wonderfully in vivacity\\nand interest. Her eyes appear to be larger, which, of course, is due\\nto the decrease of flesh around them. Her step is as different as it\\nis possible to imagine. It is much more agile. She is delighted be-\\nyond expression at the progress of the treatment.\\nThe bicycle lessons are now successfully progressing. Readers of\\nthe Sunday JVorld will recollect that the patient s first attempt\\nwas a failure, or would have been so considered by the average per-\\nson who has undertaken to learn. The first day our patient attempted\\nto ride, it was with the utmost difficulty that she mounted the ma-\\nchine, although aided by two instructors. It was almost impossible\\nfor her to lift herself on to the wheel, and at the end of the first les-\\nson she was so exhausted physically |;hat she was really unable to walk\\na step, and was obliged to rest for nearly an hour before she could\\ngo home. Very stout people, although they are unaware usually of\\nthe fact, really exercise only a few sets of muscles. They test an\\nentirely different set when they try to propel a bicycle.\\nMRS. BAKER S MEASUREMENTS, WEIGHT, ETC.\\nMonday, July 5th\\nHeight, 5 feet 5^ inches.\\nWeight, 205 pounds.\\nBust, 45 inches.\\nWaist, 35 inches.\\nWrist, 6|^ inches.\\nArm at the largest part, 15 J inches.\\nArm at the largest part between elbow and wrist, 11 inches\\nNeck, 16J inches.\\nHips, 55 inches.\\nMonday, July 12th\\nWeight, 197^ pounds.\\nBust, 43 inches.\\nNeck, 16 inches.\\nHips, 55 inches.\\nWaist, 32 inches.", "height": "4380", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0486.jp2"}, "485": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 485\\nMonday, July 19th\\nWeight, 193^ pounds.\\nHips, 46 inches.\\nNeck, 15J inches scant.\\nBust, 43 inches.\\nWaist, 32 inches.\\nThe day after Mrs. Baker s first bicycle lesson was one neither she\\nnor I will readily forget. My patient was a very discouraged woman\\nand very lame, and she said she was quite certain she should never\\nhave courage to attempt the second lesson. I did not urge her, but\\nlet the matter rest until, of her own accord, she suggested making a\\nsecond trial. I consented, and yesterday she came to me with brilliant\\neyes, a quick and alert step and a face wreathed in smiles to tell me\\nthat she could ride alone. She had no difficulty whatever now in\\nmounting the machine, and will take a lesson every day for the present.\\nThe flesh about the face and throat of our patient now begins to\\ngive evidences of the depleting process. The muscular structure which\\nsupports the adipose tissue, has been so long weighed down by the\\nmass of superfluous flesh that it has become flaccid and weak because\\nit has been unequal to the weight put upon it.\\nThe next step of importance in Mrs. Baker s treatment will be the\\nrestoration of these muscles to firmness and strength. The muscles of\\nthe face are intended to uphold just enough for symmetry and a per-\\nfect contour. Once they have been weakened by obesity, it is diffi-\\ncult, but not impossible, to restore them to firmness, and the best\\nmethod for effecting this result is unquestionably massage.\\nVery few women appear to understand just what massage will do\\nfor the facial muscles, and I receive constantly many letters begging\\nto know what massage is, what it will do for the face, and what the\\nprocess is. Massage will usually do for the face just what it will ac-\\ncomplish upon any other part of the body where the muscles are\\nweakened and relaxed. In the case of a withered arm or leg the limb\\nhas times without number, been restored to a normal condition with-\\nout other treatment than properly-directed Swedish massage, combined\\nwith electricity.\\nJuly 26th. Mrs. Baker was weighed the beginning of her fourth\\nweek of treatment. To her great astonishment and delight the scales", "height": "4348", "width": "2760", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0487.jp2"}, "486": {"fulltext": "486 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nregistered 190. This, was a reduction of just fifteen pounds in three\\nweeks. It was truly remarkable to see the change in her looks and\\nmanner, and if there were any question in my mind as to the whole-\\nsomeness of an excess of fat, it would certainly have been dispelled by\\nthis experience with my patient during the three weeks.\\nFor seven years Mrs. Baker had never been able to walk more than\\nthree blocks at a stretch. She suffered from palpitation of the heart\\nwhen she attempted to walk upstairs, and any exertion resulted in great\\nfatigue. This was her condition when she placed herself under my care,\\nJuly 11th.\\nWhen she came to me to be weighed, July 26th, her step was as light\\nas that of a young girl of twenty. Her figure was so changed, that it\\nwas impossible for her to wear her ordinary garments, and the waist\\nwhich she had worn to have her photographs taken, was really a ludicrous\\nsight upon her. Naturally, she was delighted in the improvement in her\\nappearance, but I was more rejoiced, because her general health had re-\\nceived such wonderful benefit. She could now walk from fifteen to\\ntwenty blocks a day, rode a bicycle, and said she felt as she did when\\nshe was a young girl, before the superfluous flesh encroached upon her\\nstrength and beauty.\\nA great many kindly persons have assured me that obesity was nat-\\nural, and that I was taking a great risk in defying Nature in my attempt\\nto reduce my patient s adipose tissue. I must contend, on my side, that\\nsuperfluous flesh is a disease, and that even a moderate obesity is less\\nwholesome than a normal amount of fat, and I am convinced, not only\\nfrom my own experience, but from the experiences of many persons\\nwhom I have guided in this matter, that obesity is not a natural con-\\ndition at any time of life. I believe that scientists have decided that a\\nvery small amount of adipose tissue in the human organism is necessary\\nto a person of average height, and, if I am not mistaken, I think the\\namount required for a person weighing 160 pounds is not above eight\\npounds. My own belief is that after a certain weight every added ounce\\nis harmful to the subject, one way or another.\\nIt is a curious fact that so many intelligent men and women insist\\nthat obesity is uncontrollable. A very well-known lady recently told\\nme that she knew it was not what she ate that made her fat. On the\\ncontrary, she declared that she was not addicted to fat-forming food.\\nThen I asked her to tell me what she ate during that day, and she", "height": "4364", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0488.jp2"}, "487": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 487\\ndescribed a diet that was certainly an extremely fat-producing one.\\nIn her own language it seemed innocent enough, and it was difficult\\nfor me to combat her ingenuous assurances that she only ate a very\\nlittle at a time of the various starchy and sugary foods she referred\\nto. I knew perfectly well, merely looking at her, that she must be\\neating fat-forming foods, and I am as positive as I am sure that fire\\nwill burn, that on a non-fat-producing diet she would inevitably reduce\\nin size, but it was impossible for me to convince her.\\nA great many fat people declare that they are in perfect health\\nand I am certain this is not true. As a matter of fact and statistics,\\nfat people do not live as long as those who are more normal in size.\\nDoctor C. M. Page, who is an authority on this subject, declares\\nA fat person, at whatever period of life, has not a sound tissue\\nin his body. Not only is the entire muscular system degenerated with\\nthe fatty particles, but the vital organs heart, lungs, brain, kidneys,\\nliver, etc. are likewise mottled throughout, like rust spots in a steel\\nwatch-spring, liable to fail at any moment. The gifted Gambetta, whom\\nM. Rochefort styled the fatted satrap, died, far under his prime, because\\nof his depraved condition. A slight gunshot wound, from which a clean\\nman would have speedily recovered, ended this obese diabetic s life.\\nEvents sufficiently convincing are constantly occurring on both sides\\nof the Atlantic. Every hour men are rolling into ditches of death be-\\ncause they do not learn how to live. The ditches have fictitious names\\ngrief, fright, apoplexy, kidney trouble, heart disease, etc.\\nThe inciting cause of the accumulation of superfluous flesh is in\\nthe ingestion of more food than the system requires, which results in\\nthe failure to throw off the waste matter. I think that the begin-\\nning of obesity in most cases will be found in the excess of starch\\nand sugar taken into the stomach. There is no question in the\\nworld as to what a diet of meats with starchless vegetables will ac-\\ncomplish.\\nThe success of Mrs. Baker s case would appear to be unusual\\nto the average observer. It is not so, however. She is simply reap-\\ning the reward of her courage and persistency. Mrs. Baker is a very\\nbright and charming woman, and she was so much in the spirit of\\nthe experiment that it was a great pleasure to watch her. The im-\\nprovement in her looks is most extraordinary and particularly about\\nthe face as the lost contour has reappeared.", "height": "4352", "width": "2748", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0489.jp2"}, "488": {"fulltext": "488 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nMRS. BAKER S WEIGHT AND MEASUREMENTS\\n(Taken at Weekly Periods During her Treatment.)\\nMonday, July 5th.\\nHeight, 5 feet, 5J inches.\\nWeight, 205 pounds.\\nBust, 45 inches.\\nWrist, Q inches.\\nWaist, 35 inches.\\nArm at largest part, 15^ inches.\\nArm at largest part between elbow and wrist, 11 inches.\\nHips, 55 inches.\\nNeck, 16^ inches.\\nMonday, July 12th.\\nWeight, 197J pounds.\\nBust, 43 inches.\\nWaist, 32 inches.\\nHips, 51 inches.\\nNeck, 16 inches.\\nMonday, July 19th.\\nWeight, 193^ pounds.\\nBust, 43 inches.\\nWaist, 32 inches.\\nHips, 46 inches.\\nNeck, 15^ inches.\\nMonday, July 26th.\\nWeight, 190 pounds.\\nBust, 41J inches.\\nWaist, 31 inches.\\nHips, 44 inches.\\nNeck, 14^ inches.\\nIt will thus be seen that she continues to decrease in size and to im-\\nprove in every possible way. She has now finished the fourth week of\\nher treatment. For seven years, up to the day she began this treatment,\\nMrs. Baker had never been able to walk more than three blocks, at the\\noutside, in any one day. She had been almost a chronic invalid.\\nI made no mention of this fact when I first undertook the case, but\\nit is the truth that she had been constantly under a physician s care for\\na number of ailments since the birth of her child seven years ago. Her\\ncondition at that time was such that it was considered inadvisable for her\\nto take any exercise, and she passed the greater part of her time in a\\nreclining position.", "height": "4384", "width": "2844", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0490.jp2"}, "489": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX\\n489\\nTen years ago she was possessed of a figure which was daily remarked\\nfor its beauty and symmetry. It was, in fact, the perfect figure.\\nI went with Mrs. Baker to see her ride on her bicycle. Her progress\\ntoward health and beauty was something positively astonishing. It\\nmust be remembered that four weeks ago this woman could not raise\\nher foot high enough to mount a bicycle. The muscular effort was al-\\nmost impossible, and it was necessary to lift her almost as one would lift\\na sack of meal. She had not the slightest elasticity or apparent vitality.\\nShe then weighed 205 pounds, and was huge around the hips. She\\ncould not walk across the room without breathing as though she had\\ngone through some terrific muscular exertion. To walk up a flight of\\nstairs exhausted her so that she could do no more until she had rested.\\nShe now mounted a bicycle as gracefully and as easily as any girl of\\ntwenty, and rode about eight miles without fatigue, but on the contrary,\\nlooking every moment the picture of health. When we returned from\\nour ride the patient declared herself free from fatigue and was in the\\nmost buoyant spirits.\\nI do not wish to make any absurd claims for the obesity treatment,\\nbut I do feel that I should say, and that other stout women afflicted\\nin the same manner should know, that Mrs. Baker to-day is a perfectly\\nwell woman. The internal troubles from which she has so long suf-\\nfered have completely disappeared. She herself declares that a mir-\\nacle has been performed, but I know that once more hygiene has only\\ndone what drugs can never hope to accomplish in certain cases.\\nMrs. Baker s measurements and weight as taken for the first five\\nweeks are as follows\\nJuly 5, weight.\\n205\\npounds.\\nJuly 26, waist\\n31\\ninches.\\nJuly 12,\\n197i\\nu\\nAug. 2,\\n30\\nJuly 19,\\n193i\\nu\\nJuly 26,\\n190\\nJuly 5, hips.\\n55\\ninches.\\nAug. 2,\\n1861\\nu\\nJuly 12,\\n51\\nit\\nJuly 5, bust,\\nJuly 12,\\nJuly 19,\\n45\\n43\\n43\\ninches.\\nJuly 19,\\nJuly 26,\\nAug. 2,\\n46\\n44\\n44\\nJuly 26,\\nAug. 2,\\n414\\nu\\n2\\n41\\nJuly 5, neck.\\n161\\ninches.\\nJuly 12,\\n16\\na\\nJuly 5, waist.\\n35\\ninches.\\nJuly 19,\\n151\\nii\\nscant.\\nJuly 12,\\n32\\nJuly 26,\\n14*\\nit\\nJuly 19,\\n32\\na\\nAug. 2,\\n14\\nn", "height": "4348", "width": "2736", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0491.jp2"}, "490": {"fulltext": "490 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nThe decrease around the hips and about the throat would appear\\nto be remarkable, but this is not so. Fat people appear to gain flesh\\nmore readilj in some parts of the body than others, and an obese woman\\nleading the life pursued by Mrs. Baker would in almost every case ac-\\nquire flesh just in these regions. Mrs. Baker s neck is now almost normal\\nsize.\\nIn order to avoid lines and wrinkles, which sometimes appear as a\\nresult of the loss of adipose tissue, I ordered massage of the face and\\nthroat for Mrs. Baker, and she receives these treatments regularly.\\nMrs. Baker s diet continues about the same. She now understands\\nwhat she can eat, and she knows the value of various foods suited to her\\ntaste. She discovered that she gained flesh when she ate as much pilot\\nbread as she chose. She keeps a regular record of her weight, and can\\ntell within twenty-four hours if she is increasing in the slightest degree.\\nLike ninety per cent, of the obese people, Mrs. Baker really thought,\\nas she said, that it was not what she ate that made her fat.\\nObesity patients should be weighed the day they begin treatment.\\nIf the rules here given are strictly obeyed, the decrease in weight the\\nfirst week will probably be about twice as great as that of any other\\nweek. The abnormal weight is always due to an accumulation of adipose\\ntissue and water, constantly increasing because of the food and fluids\\ntaken into the stomach. By a radical change of diet which eliminates\\nstarch, sugar, and, to some extent, decreases the amount of fluid, the\\nreduction in weight is much greater than after the first shrinkage.\\nThe obesity patient must understand that fat is a disease, and that\\nthe dietetic treatment for reduction is reasonable, logical, and is certain\\nto prove effective. Whenever an obese person fails to lose flesh under\\nthe system here advised, that person is positively and certainly infring-\\ning on some of the rules.\\nI have no wish to disguise the fact that obese patients who wish\\nto regain a normal size must exercise self-denial and will power.\\nAfter the first three days the severity of it is a thing of the past.\\nThe relief from the burden of flesh is felt within twenty-four hours,\\nand I have never yet taken care of an obesity case and I have had\\nnumbers of them where the patient who has held out for three\\ndays has not succeeded in the undertaking.\\nSee what a bill of fare for the patients who wish to reduce flesh\\ncan be made up from the following articles", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0492.jp2"}, "491": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 491\\nBeef or mutton in any form, preferably roasted or broiled, always\\nunderdone spinach, tomatoes, cucumbers salads of all kinds, dressed\\nwithout oil ripe fruits of every description all kinds of fish, ex-\\ncepting salmon and, in the course of two or three weeks, fowl or\\ngame. For the first fortnight I think it better to restrict the diet to\\nbeef and mutton. Cabbage, turnips and cauliflower may also be added.\\nThe benefit in obesity cases to be derived from hot water is of\\nimportance, and after making a number of experiments I am con-\\nvinced that obesity patients fare much better by taking what may\\nseem at first a large quantity daily. The hot water has the ad-\\nvantage of stimulating the digestive organs, particularly the liver, and\\na torpid liver is a great friend of obesity. Hot water also stimulates\\ncirculation and augments the vitality. Obesity patients are advised\\nto take a large cup of water i as hot as can be drunk, about one hour\\nbefore each meal, and the same amount or more before retiring. So\\nfar as drinking with meals is concerned, I think it a mistake to pun-\\nish one s self by the deprivation of fluids. Obesity patients will do\\nperfectly well in most cases if they permit themselves a good-sized cup\\nof English breakfast tea for breakfast and hot water with lemon juice\\nat other meals. Milk should not be used, or cream, in the tea. A\\nslice of lemon and a half grain saccharine tablet will take the place\\nof both milk and sugar. The saccharine tablets may be obtained at\\nany druggist s.\\nExercise\\nConcerning exercise, at the beginning of the treatment, it will be\\ndifficult for many of the obese persons to whom I am now addressing\\nmyself, to take even moderate exercise. They should, however, make\\nthe attempt. Walking, light gymnastics, athletic games, the punching\\nbag, are admirable, but unquestionably best of all, is the bicycle.\\nIt is a great mistake in the obesity treatment to make the exer-\\ncise at first either severe or laborious. No one should ever take so\\nmuch physical exercise as to experience a real feeling of exhaustion.\\nIt is an error to suppose that exercise is only useful in a ratio to its\\nseverity. Obesity patients oftentimes say they cannot ride a wheel.\\nMrs. Baker was convinced she could never accomplish this feat, yet\\nshe is now so enthusiastic that were I to permit her, she would ride\\nthree times as far as I think wise at present.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 26", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0493.jp2"}, "492": {"fulltext": "492 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nAugust 9th. Mrs. Baker concludes her six-weeks treatment under\\nmy care. She understands now quite as well as I do how to take care\\nof herself, and is perfectly able to follow the course laid out without my\\nguidance. Mrs. Baker no longer appears like the same woman. She\\nherself can better describe the difference in her entire life that the\\nobesity cure has made, and I take pleasure in giving to the thousands\\nwho are interested in this case, Mrs. Baker s own words to me in a\\nletter just received\\nMy Dear Mrs. Ayer It is impossible for me to tell you my\\ndelight at the success of the experiment, as you choose to call it, in the\\nreduction of flesh by logical and rational means, for the demonstration of\\nwhich I was the subject. I should like every one who is interested in\\nobesity as a disease and in its cure to know just how difficult my case\\nwas, and then I am sure they will understand that I entered into the\\nmatter with many forebodings.\\nI have for years considered flesh as an affliction, and it was a very\\npainful one to me, but until I met you I never regarded it as a disease,\\nalthough my increase in fat began with my invalidism of seven years ago.\\nUp to the time I first met you, for at least seven years I have been in-\\ncreasing in weight, steadily losing strength and steadily failing in inter-\\nest in all that makes life most useful and gives a zest to one s existence.\\nI believe that my flesh was the result of my sedentary life in the\\nbeginning. For a long time after the birth of my little daughter I was\\nunable to take any exercise. I remained in bed a great deal of the time,\\nand was for months a patient at one of the well-known hospitals, where,\\nnotwithstanding my critical condition, I still increased in flesh. I have\\ncertainly had the best medical attention it was possible to procure, but\\nutterly without avail so far as making me a well woman.\\nWhen I first met you I was in despair, and did not believe I should\\never be able to walk more than a block and a half, which was the utmost\\nI could do, and I had given up all hopes of ever being like myself. My\\nfamily and my friends regarded me as a hopeless invalid. My mother, in\\nfact, always spoke of me as her invalid daughter. I do not think that it\\never occurred to any one that my superabundance of flesh was the secret\\nof my ill health, and when you suggested that with the decrease of weight\\nI should certainly get stronger, it had no effect upon me, because I had\\nno confidence that such was the case. All this concerns the Martha\\nBaker of six weeks ago.\\nTo-day I feel positively like a new woman. I look at the photograph\\ntaken of me the day I began the treatment, and at the photograph taken\\nthe day before yesterday, and I myself find the change almost as in-\\ncredible as do my friends. It is not necessary to refer to just what the\\ntreatment has been because the readers of the Sunday World, who are\\ninterested, have followed it. The experience was one that T shall value all", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0494.jp2"}, "493": {"fulltext": "MARTHA BAKER BEFORE TREATMENT\\n(493)", "height": "4348", "width": "2884", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0495.jp2"}, "494": {"fulltext": "(494) MARTHA BAKER AFTER FIVE WEEKS REDUCTION TREATMENT", "height": "4360", "width": "2788", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0496.jp2"}, "495": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX\\n495\\nmy life. It has taught me not only that my strength and health, but\\nalso my looks and my happiness are almost completely in my control. I\\nhave learned how to gauge my diet so that I can, when I have arrived at\\nthe weight determined upon, am quite certain, hold it indefinitely.\\nOf course, like all other women, I am delighted at my improved ap-\\npearance, but far beyond is my happiness in being well again. I can\\nnow walk twenty or thirty blocks without fatigue. I ride my wheel\\nevery day and enjoy it immensely, and I feel such renewed vivacity and\\nenergy that, whereas, it used to be an exertion for me to move, it now\\nseems impossible for me to remain quiet any length of time. I cannot\\nexpress to you my grateful appreciation of all that has been done for me,\\nand the pleasure it gives me to indorse the rational treatment for the\\nreduction of flesh and its perfect success in my case.\\nWith many thanks to you personally, I beg you to believe me,\\nGratefully yours,\\nMartha Baker.\\nMRS. BAKER S WEIGHT AND MEASUREMENTS\\nJuly 5,\\nweight,\\n205\\npounds.\\nJuly 12,\\na\\n197K\\nii\\nJuly 19,\\nn\\n193)^\\nii\\nJuly 26,\\n11\\n190\\nli\\nAug. 2,\\na\\n186)^\\nli\\nAug. 9,\\n182)^\\na\\nAug. 16,\\na\\n178\\nii\\nJuly 5,\\nbust,\\n45\\ninches.\\nJuly 12,\\n43\\nJuly 19,\\n43\\nii\\nJuly 26,\\n41K\\n11\\nAug. 2,\\n41\\na\\nAug. 9,\\na\\n40\\n(full)\\nAug. 16,\\n38\\nli\\nJuly 5,\\nwaist,\\n35\\ninches.\\nJuly 12,\\nli\\n32\\nJuly 19,\\na\\n32\\na\\nJuly 26,\\nli\\n31\\na\\nAug. 2,\\na\\n30\\nli\\nAug. 9,\\n(t\\n29\\nli\\nAug. 16,\\ni(\\n28\\nii\\nJuly 5, hips^\\nJuly 12,\\nJuly 19,\\nJuly 26,\\nAug. 2,\\nAug. 9,\\nAug. 16,\\nJuly 5, neck,\\nJuly 12,\\nJuly 19,\\nJuly 26,\\nAug. 2,\\nAug. 9,\\nAug. 16,\\ninches.\\n55\\n51\\n46\\n44\\n44\\n42\\n42\\n16}4 inches.\\n16\\n15\\n14M\\n14\\n14\\n14\\nDecrease in weight 27 pounds.\\nDecrease in bust m s re 7 inches.\\nDecrease in waist m s re 7\\nDecrease in hip m s re .13\\nDecrease in neck m s re 2)^\\nWhen I discharged Mrs. Baker, I told her that she now knew as\\nmuch about the treatment for obesity as I did. She promised to con-\\ntinue the regimen and let me hear from her.\\nNote.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Mrs. Baker s case was complicated hy an organic difficulty and by the pres-\\nsure of the fatty tissues upon the vital organs of the body. She was simply a victim of", "height": "4340", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0497.jp2"}, "496": {"fulltext": "496 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\naggravated obesity. She was fully sixty pounds heavier than she should have been for\\nher height. Not one stout woman in ten is that much overweight. Reduction in most\\ncases therefore becomes a simpler and easier task than she was called upon to perform.\\nShe accomplished that task fully to her own unbounded delight and to the satisfaction of\\nher family and friends. She has since kept the faith. I had not seen her for many\\nmonths until a very few days before this note was penned. She entered my oflB.ce, not\\nwith other callers but alone. I looked squarely at her and, to my subsequent apologetic\\nconfusion, I did not recognize her until she said: Why, don t you know me, Mrs. Ayer?\\nI m Mrs. Baker. There she stood, tall, fair proportioned, healthy, happy and beaming a\\nflower of mature womanhood, just as Nature intended she should be.\\nI have thus given you in detail the history of two cases which excited\\nno little attention and which called forth hundreds of letters from those\\nafflicted with emaciation on the one hand, or obesity on the other. There\\nseemed to lurk in the minds of some a doubt as to whether the results\\nclaimed could be accomplished without the aid of drugs and doctors. It\\nwas to establish this very fact that the experiments were undertaken, and\\nit was proved beyond the shadow of a doubt that, barring constitutional\\nailments, there is hope for the thinnest or the stoutest woman in the land\\nor man for that matter, as the treatment would be practically the same\\nregardless of sex. It is not a case of drugs or doctors. The remedy in\\neither event rests solely with the patient. As a matter of fact, abnor-\\nmally thin people live and die thin, and ultrafat people live and die fat,\\nbecause, in most cases, they do not possess the moral courage and stamina\\nto follow out the treatment and then conform to a sensible diet. Some\\nbegin well enough and benefit accordingly, but appetite and inclination\\nget the better of good resolutions. I once had a class of more than sixty\\nobesity patients fifty-three of these reduced themselves to a satisfactory\\ncondition and have since kept themselves in statu quo by observing the\\nsimple rules laid down. The excuse need never be made that one must\\neat what one likes. If this were true one need not eat everything that\\none likes. Dieting is not starving, and when objectionable articles are\\neliminated there still remains a long list of good things and at a price\\nwithin the reach of all.\\nIn conclusion it may be repeated that the treatment and regimen\\napplies to women and men alike, and can be tested by the poor as\\nwell as the rich, and I feel that I may be pardoned when I say that\\nit is a duty that Ve owe to ourselves, our families and even to our\\nfriends to keep in a normal, healthful and nonoffensive physical condi-\\ntion, especially when that object can be accomplished by the observ-\\nance of a few simple rules pertaining to diet, exercise and sleep.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0498.jp2"}, "497": {"fulltext": "I-\\nIll\\nCO\\np\\nUJ CO\\n2\\nH\\nco\\nI-\\nz\\nUJ\\nlU\\na:\\nZ)\\nCO\\nUJ", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0499.jp2"}, "498": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4344", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0500.jp2"}, "499": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX C\\nEASILY-MADE REMEDIES AND TOILET PREPAEATIONS\\nVERT woman will agree with me that it is the small lacks\\nthat mar our comfort and ruffle the domestic waters.\\nIn getting ready for an outing, the prudent woman\\nwill consider the distress of mind and body she will be-\\nyond peradventure have to endure, if she court the sun\\nand breezes without a well -chosen stock of healing cream,\\nsoothing lotions and refreshing aromatic waters.\\nThe following remedies will often be found useful\\nWITCH HAZEL CREAM\\nWhite wax, one ounce; spermaceti, one ounce; almond oil, three ounces;\\nlanolin, one ounce place these four ingredients into the inner vessel\\nof the custard boiler. Fill the outer vessel about half full of warm\\nwater and set over the fire. Place the inner vessel into the outer re-\\nceptacle. When all the ingredients have melted, take the inner vessel\\nout, stir the mixture constantly until cold, adding little by little, dur-\\ning the stirring, three ounces of rose water, one ounce of witch hazel,\\nand one drachm of tincture of benzoin. The result will be more than\\nhalf a pound of delicious cream for the purpose suggested.\\nGood toilet vinegars are very expensive if purchased over the coun-\\nter. No preparation for the toilet can be more easily compounded\\n(499)", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0501.jp2"}, "500": {"fulltext": "500 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nFORMULA FOR AROMATIC VINEGAR\\nTake of glacial acetic acid, 1 pound rectified spirits, 2 imperial\\nfluid ounces, camphor (gum crushed small) 2J ounces oil of cloves,\\nIJ drachms oil of rosemary, 1 drachm oil of bergamot, oil of cinna-\\nmon, oil of lavender, oil of pimento, oil of neroli, each drachm. Mix\\nall together pour into a large bottle, and shake until the whole of\\nthe camphor is dissolved.\\nFOR MOSQUITO STINGS\\nIt is said that rubbing the inflamed part with a slice of raw onion\\nwill effectively relieve the pain and irritation of mosquito stings. I am\\nnot certain that the remedy is not more disagreeable than the affliction.\\nA solution of menthol in alcohol is really excellent for the stings\\nof all insects. Any good apothecary will know the proper strength.\\nIvy poisoning is so painful, that it is well to have a recipe which\\ncan be made up easily, should it unfortunately be required. The fol-\\nlowing has been most successful. It is the formula of a well-known\\nphysician\\nPOISONING FROM IVY\\nCarbonate of lead\\nPowdered arrowroot\\nPowdered gum acacia\\nHydrochlorate of cocaine\\nOlive oil\\n2 drachms.\\n2 drachms.\\n1 drachm.\\n10 drachms.\\n3 ounces.\\nSpread over the skin affected.\\nIn cases of bad stings from insects, where the pain is intense,\\nand there is no abrasion of the skin, an application of a weak so-\\nlution of cocaine will bring instant relief. Cocaine should however\\nalways, if possible, be given by physician s orders.\\nFor daily use, merely as a grateful wash, the baby and the grand-\\nmother, and all the intermediaries, will find nothing more refreshing\\nand agreeable than the old-fashioned Orange Flower Water Lotion,\\nmade as follows\\nORANGE FLOWER WATER LOTION\\nGlycerine 1 ounce.\\nOrange flower water 1 pint.\\nPulverized borax 3 drachms.", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0502.jp2"}, "501": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 501\\nFRENCH MILK OF ROSES\\n(A Cosmetic Wash of Renown)\\nTincture of benzoin (simple) fluid ounce.\\nTincture of styrax -J fluid ounce.\\nEsprit de rose 1 to 2 fluid drachms.\\nRectified spirits 2^ fluid ounces.\\nMix add gradually, rose water 16^ fluid ounces.\\nAugustin recommends the addition of a little carbonate of potash\\n(say 1 dr. to the pint) when used as a lotion for acne.\\nCUCUMBER CREAM\\nPut six ounces of sweet almond oil into the inside receptacle\\nof a custard boiler. Put as much water into the outside boiler as\\nthough you were about to make a custard. Set the two one in-\\nside the other) over the fire. Have ready four good-sized cucum-\\nbers. Wipe them carefully so that they are perfectly clean. Cut\\nthem into squares, two or three inches in size. Do not remove the\\npeel. When the almond oil begins to warm, put the cucumbers in it.\\nSet the custard boiler on the back of the stove, and let the water merely\\nsimmer for four or five hours. Strain. To six ounces of the strained\\nliquid add one ounce of white wax, one of spermaceti and two ounces\\nof lanolin. Heat until the wax, spermaceti and lanolin are melted. Then\\ntake off the fire, and beat with an egg beater until cold, adding during\\nthe beating process two teaspoonfuls of tincture of benzoin. This will\\nmake a delicious cucumber cream, if properly and carefully prepared.\\nA NEW REMEDY FOR BLACKHEADS\\nDoctor Hebra, of Vienna, a world-renowned dermatologist, advises\\nthe following for curing blackheads. Bathe the face at night with the\\nfollowing lotion\\nRose water 10 grammes.\\nPure alcohol 10 grammes.\\nGlycerine 10 grammes.\\nPowdered borax 5 grammes.\\nAfter five minutes apply this mixture\\nPure alcohol 80 grammes.\\nSpirits of lavender 10 grammes.\\nGreen soap 40 grammes.\\nWash off in the morning.", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0503.jp2"}, "502": {"fulltext": "502 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nANTIPHELIC LOTION FOR REMOVING FRECKLES\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Hardy)\\nBichloride of mercury 1 gramme.\\nSulphate of zinc 2 grammes.\\nAcetate of lead 2 grammes.\\nDistilled water enough to dissolve.\\nAgitate. Add distilled water 260 grammes.\\nApply this lotion after bathing the skin with warm water, morning\\nand night.\\nThis lotion will cause a slight inflammation and will gently remove\\nthe cuticle. It is efficacious but painful.\\nA CURE FOR PARASITES (Pierre Vigier)\\nBichloride of mercury, 5 grammes; pure glycerine, 100 grammes. Ap-\\nply to the parts afflicted. It will destroy all parasites, and can be washed\\noff half an hour after it has been rubbed into the scalp, or wherever\\nrequired.\\nCURE FOR CONFLUENT ACNE (Monin)\\nApply the following mixture to the afflicted parts morning and night\\nGlycerine 40 grammes.\\nOxide of zinc 5 grammes.\\nSoap tincture 10 grammes.\\nPotassa alum 2 grammes. Mix.\\nFor internal treatment in connection with the above, the patient\\nshould take each morning before breakfast one tablespoonful of a\\nmixture composed of equal parts of pure glycerine and castor oil.\\nTO SCATTER BOILS (Monin)\\nApply frequent compresses wet with equal parts of tincture 6i iodine,\\ntincture of arnica and spirits of camphor. If the patient will drink tar\\nwater in connection with the local treatment, it will aid in aborting the\\nboils.\\nSKIN FOOD\\nWhite wax 1 ounce.\\nSpermaceti 1 ounce.\\nLanolin 2 ounces.\\nSweet almond oil 4 ^.ounces.\\nCocoanut oil 2 ounces.\\nTincture of benzoin 30 drops.\\nOrange flower water 2 ounces.\\nMelt the first five ingredients together. Take off the fire and beat\\nuntil nearly cold, adding, little by little, the benzoin, and lastly, the\\norange flower water.", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0504.jp2"}, "503": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 503\\nSULPHUR AND MOLASSES\\nThis is an excellent spring remedy for the skin.\\nGet five cents worth of sulphur precipitate. Put two teaspoonfuls in\\nthe bottom of a glass. See that there are no lumps in it. Pour six tea-\\nspoonfuls of syrup or molasses on the sulphur. Stir. Take one teaspoon-\\nful of the mixture before breakfast, and one just before going to bed, for\\nthree days. Omit for three days. Repeat and omit for three days, until\\nyou have taken the preparation for nine days.\\nMARSH-MALLOW LOTION\\nIs said to be excellent for distended veins, and is made as follows:\\nEau de guimauve (mallows) 200 grammes.\\nBenzoate of soda 5 grammes.\\nGlycerine 20 grammes.\\nAlcohol 10 grammes.\\nTO REMOVE MOTH PATCH OR LIVER MARK OF PREGNANCY\\nCocoa butter 10 grammes.\\nCastor oil 10 grammes.\\nOxide of zinc 20 centigrammes.\\nWhite precipitate 10 centigrammes.\\nEssence of rose 10 drops.\\nApply to the moth patch night and morning.\\nTO WHITEN THE HANDS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Cazenave)\\nSweet and bitter almonds, blanched and pounded into a paste, 250\\ngrammes each lemon juice, 60 grammes sweet milk, 30 grammes\\nsweet almond oil, 90 grammes brandy, 180 grammes.\\nBALDNESS\\nWhere the hair falls out in spots the following is an excellent\\nremedy\\nDistilled rose water 180 grammes.\\nAromatic vinegar\\nPure glycerine\\nTincture nux vomica\\nTincture cantharides\\n20 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\n15 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\nRub gently into the scalp where the hair has fallen out.", "height": "4352", "width": "2772", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0505.jp2"}, "504": {"fulltext": "504 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nASTRINGENT POMADE FOR FLABBY, MOIST SKINS\u00e2\u0080\u0094 (Monin)\\nWhite vaseline\\n30\\ngrammes.\\n4 grammes.\\n2 grammes.\\n2 grammes.\\n50 centigrammes.\\nExtract of ralantua\\nTincture of Provence roses\\nTincture of vanilla\\nTincture of capsicum\\nApply at night.\\nSOAP JULEP FOR SHAMPOO\\nAlcohol 8 ounces.\\nRose water 1 quart.\\nExtract of rondeletia 2 ounces.\\nWhite soap 14 grammes.\\nSaffron v^ater 14 ounces.\\nCut the soap into small shavings. Put it upon the stove with the\\nsaffron and one pint of rose water, and let it boil gently until the soap\\nis all melted. Then add the rest of the rose water, the alcohol and the\\nrondeletia. Bottle and use as any shampoo.\\nA DELIGHTFUL FRUIT VINEGAR FOR THE TOILET\\nRaspberries (red), 500 grammes red rose leaves, a handful pure\\nstrained honey, 10 grammes. Pour a quart of white vinegar over all.\\nLet stand in a glass vessel for a month filter, and use diluted with\\nwater, or pure as agreeable.\\nORIENTAL METHOD OF DARKENING THE EYELIDS OR KOHOL\\nPulverized Chinese ink, 10 grammes; rose water heated, 120\\ngrammes. Stir until the mixture becomes a thick paste. Apply with\\na tiny camel s-hair brush or pad to the eyelashes and lids to give\\nthe languorous appearance regarded as so beautiful by Orientals.\\nSIMPLE TINCTURE OF BENZOIN\\nA few drops of tincture of benzoin added to the bath gives a delicious\\nodor, and in larger quantities, diluted with water, benzoin serves to give\\nthe flesh firmness, and also possesses the quality of rendering the skin\\nfair. The simple tincture can be easily made at home as follows\\nMacerate four ounces of powdered gum benzoin put it into an open-\\nmouthed bottle add one quart of pure alcohol. Let it stand a week.\\nAgitate the bottle frequently. Pass it through filtering paper and it\\nwill be ready for use.", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0506.jp2"}, "505": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 505\\nAROMATIC VINEGAR\\nGlacial acetic acid 8 ounces.\\nPure alcohol 1 ounce.\\nCrushed gum camphor 1 J ounces.\\nOil of cloves (finest quality). drachm.\\nOil of rosemary drachm.\\nOil of bergamot drachm.\\nOil of cinnamon drachm.\\nOil of lavender J drachm.\\nOil of pimento 4 drachm.\\nNeroli or essence de petit grain J drachm.\\nMix in a stoppered bottle until the whole of the camphor is dissolved.\\nThis makes a delicate aromatic vinegar and serves many purposes. It is\\nparticularly refreshing as an adjunct to the bath in warm weather.\\nIMITATION LILY OF THE VALLEY\\nThis very delicate odor is made by mixing the following\\nExtract of tuberose 4 ounces.\\nExtract of jasmine ounce.\\nExtract of orange flower 1 ounce.\\nExtract of vanilla 1^ ounces.\\nExtract of cassia 2 ounces.\\nExtract of rose 2 ounces.\\nOil of bitter almonds 1 drop.\\nKeep this mixture for a month, when it will be ready to use. If care-\\nfully compounded it will be as fine as any imported lily of the valley\\nextract.\\nJELLY OF ROSES\\nThis is a very nice preparation for those persons who care for the\\nisinglass as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas\\nFinest Russian isinglass J ounce.\\nGlycerine 2 ounces.\\nRose water 6 ounces.\\nOil of roses .10 drops.\\nDissolve the isinglass in the rose water add the glycerine and oil of\\nroses; beat and let stand until jellied.", "height": "4348", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0507.jp2"}, "506": {"fulltext": "506 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nHOME-MADE BAY RUM\\nSaturate a quarter-pound block of carbonate of magnesia with oil of\\nbay pulverize the magnesia, place in a filter and pour water through it\\nuntil the desired quantity is obtained, then add alcohol. The quantity\\nof liquid employed depends upon the desired strength and quality of the\\nbay rum.\\nHONEY OF VIOLETS\\nThe latest fad of the fashionable woman who uses violet perfume and\\naffects fresh violets for her corsage each day is a wash with which she\\nrinses her mouth, and which is called Honey of Violets.\\nExpressed juice of violets 1 fluid ounce.\\nClarified honey 2 ounces.\\nMix, without heat, by agitation in a glass bottle. Use as a mouth\\nwash and to perfume the breath.\\nSPIRITS OF CAMPHOR\\nTake one ounce of gum camphor break it into small pieces put it\\ninto a wide-necked bottle and pour nine fluid ounces of pure alcohol over\\nit. Shake it till the camphor dissolves.\\nFLORIDA WATER\\nOil of lavender 2 drachms.\\nOil of bergamot 2 drachms.\\nOil of lemon 2 drachms.\\nTincture of turmeric 1 drachm.\\nOil of neroli 1 drachm.\\nOil of balm 30 drops.\\nOil of roses 10 drops.\\nMix these together with two pints deodorized alcohol.\\nCOMMON COLOGNE WATER\\nOil of lavender 14 fluid ounces.\\nOil of rosemary -J fluid ounce.\\nOil of lemon 1 fluid ounce.\\nOil of cinnamon 20 drops.\\nAlcohol 1 gallon.\\nMix well and bottle for use.", "height": "4364", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0508.jp2"}, "507": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 507\\nSTRAWBERRY VINEGAR\\nThis is excellent, diluted in water, for making the skin firm and\\nfresh\\nFresh strawberries, pulled 3 pints.\\nWhite wine vinegar 1 quart.\\nLet steep seven days and strain.\\nORANGE FLOWER WATER\\nOrange flowers 7 pounds.\\nFresh peel of bitter oranges 8 ounces.\\nWater 2 gallons.\\nMacerate twenty-four hours and then distill one gallon.\\nESPRIT DE ROSE\\nFinest simple esprit de rose 1 pint.\\nEssence of ambergris fluid drachm.\\nEssence of rose geranium fluid drachm.\\nMix. This makes a delicately fragrant perfume.\\nCHAPPED LIPS\\nWindy weather is very apt to produce chapped lips, particu-\\nlarly in subjects who are troubled with poor circulation. A little\\nglycerine, diluted with about twice its weight of rose water, applied to\\nthe lips before going out will generally prevent their chapping and\\nkeep them in a healthful, comfortable state.\\nDELICATE FACE-POWDER\\nPowdered oleate of zinc ounce.\\nPowdered arrowroot 1 ounce.\\nOil of roses 3 drops.\\nSift through fine bolting silk.", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0509.jp2"}, "508": {"fulltext": "508\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nOld-Fashioned Formulas\\nOur grandmothers had great confidence in the merits of a very\\ndelightful and effective preparation in the shape of a skin lotion for\\nevery-day use known as milk of rose and elder. It is fragrant and\\npleasant to use, and has a very soothing and grateful effect upon\\nhighly sensitive skins\\nSKIN LOTION\\nSpermaceti\\nWhite soap in powder\\nWhite wax pulverized\\nAlmond oil (sweet)\\nJordan almonds\\nPure alcohol\\nDistilled water\\nAttar of roses\\nOil of neroli\\nEssence of jasmine\\nEssence of white rose\\n12\\njrams.\\ndrachms.\\ndrachms.\\nJ drachms.\\nounces.\\nounces.\\nounces.\\ndrops.\\ndrops.\\ndrachm.\\ndrachm.\\n3\\n2\\n8\\n3\\n5\\nBlanch the almonds and beat them into a smooth paste, adding\\nsome water gradually to form a thin cream. Melt the wax, sperma-\\nceti and almond oil together, and to this add the soap, previously rubbed\\ndown, with one-half ounce of water. To this add, in small quantities,\\nthe remainder of the water, assiduously stirring. Then add the strained\\nalmond cream and finally the alcohol and the perfume.\\nA little of this milk may be rubbed into the skin several times during\\nthe day. The effect is permanently beneficial.\\nGRANDMA S REFRESHING TOILET LOTION\\nThe cream your great grandmother used so successfully may be\\nexcellent. At any rate, you say grandma was famous for her wonderful\\nskin, and this is all she ever used.\\nHere is her famous formula. It was called Grandma s Refreshing\\nToilet Lotion and made as follows\\nBean flowers 1 pound.\\nRose leaves 7 ounces.\\nSpring water 1 quart.\\nDistill the above in a water bath until about a pint of liquid is\\nproduced, then add the distilled product of the juice of two lemons", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0510.jp2"}, "509": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 509\\nand perfume to taste with bergamot. Pour the mixture into a bottle,\\ncork tightly and put aside for future use. To use it dip a fine linen\\ncloth into the mixture and place it on the face every evening.\\nA SIMPLE COMPLEXION RECIPE\\nI remember my own grandmother s wonderful complexion recipe\\nand how my mother guarded it as a family treasure. It is simple\\nenough and there is nothing at all mysterious about it, though we\\nwere brought up to think so.\\nHere it is, and very good, too\\nOrange flower water 8 ounces.\\nTincture of benzoin 2 drachms.\\nAdd the benzoin drop by drop to the orange flower water, stirring\\nconstantly.\\nMILK OF ROSES\\nThe most famous belle of Kentucky for a period of over a quar-\\nter of a century gave me a formula which she declared had preserved\\nher fine skin through her long reign of belledom. She called it Milk\\nof Roses. It is made thus\\nPlace in a water bath one ounce of melted, fine, white, vegetable oil\\nsoap add six ounces of ^ure, fresh rose water. Then add an ounce\\neach of spermaceti and white wax, and continue the heat until all are\\nmelted. Next take one pound of blanched almonds, beat them to a\\nmeal in a clean marble mortar, with three and one-half pints more rose\\nwater, admitted portion-wise during the operation. Strain this emul-\\nsion without pressure through washed white muslin and run very slowly\\ninto the previously formed soap mixture. Mix with energy. Toward\\nthe end of this part of the process two drachms of attar of roses, dis-\\nsolved in eight ounces of pure alcohol, are to be let into the mixture\\nvery gradually during constant manipulation. The last operation is to\\nstrain, and after the liquid has had a day s repose to bottle it. Use night\\nand morning.\\nNINON DE L ENCLOS BEAUTIFIER\\nA lotion accredited to the beautiful Ninon de L Enclos, but which\\nin reality has been used from time immemorial, is made from half an\\nounce of tincture of benzoin, with sixteen ounces of rose water and", "height": "4340", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0511.jp2"}, "510": {"fulltext": "510 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nten drops of attar of roses. Mixed with an equal portion of sweet\\nalmond oil, and rubbed into the arms and neck daily, this ought to be\\na fine tissue builder.\\nComplexion Hints and Recipes\\ncreme de pistache\\nThis is a very delicate cream for the skin, and is useful for tan\\nand sunburn instead of the ordinary cold cream. It agrees with some\\nskins better than any other emollient\\nPistachio nuts, one and one-half ounces green oil, palm soap, white\\nwax and spermaceti, each one-half ounce orange flower water, twenty\\nounces essence of neroli, six ounces. Place the soap and five ounces\\nof the flower water into the inner receptacle of the water bath. Put\\nover the fire until the* soap is melted. Then add the green oil, wax\\nand spermaceti and continue the heat until they also are melted. Put\\nthe pistachio nuts into a clean marble mortar, pound until they form\\na paste. Mix the remainder of the orange flower water with this paste\\nand strain without pressure and run very slowly into the previously\\nformed mixture. Beat continuously, adding the essence of neroli to-\\nward the latter part of the performance.\\nPOWDER FOR RELIEVING IRRITATION OF THE SKIN\\nPowdered camphor 2 grammes.\\nPowdered starch 60 grammes.\\nOxide of zinc 15 grammes.\\nMix thoroughly. Before applying, moisten the face slightly with\\na little cold cream.\\nEMULSION OF SPERMACETI FOR EXORIATIONS, CHAPS, ETC.\\nSimple syrup 1^ fluid ounces.\\nPowdered gum arabic ounce.\\nMix them in a warm mortar, add of\\nSpermaceti (pure) ounce.\\nTriturate with hot pestle until united add gradually,\\nWarm water 12 fluid ounces,\\nso as to make an emulsion, continuing the agitation until the liquid\\nis quite cold.", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0512.jp2"}, "511": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 511\\nBLACKHEADS OF THE SKIN\\nI\\nBoracic acid 1 drachm.\\nAlcohol 1 ounce.\\nRose water 2 ounces.\\nUse with friction twice a day on the skin affected.\\nII\\nEther 1 ounce.\\nSoap liniment 1 ounce.\\nUpon retiring for the night, rub into the spots affected, and in the\\nmorning wash the surface with hot water.\\nThe following preparation will be found excellent for the com-\\nplexion\\nSweet almonds 32 grammes.\\nBitter almonds 10 grammes.\\nRose water 180 grammes.\\nMake the emulsion, and add,\\nBenzoate of soda 1 gramme.\\nThe following is another recipe of great efficacy in obliterating\\nwrinkles, and also the traces of smallpox\\nAlcohol 12 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 2 grammes.\\nLiquid storax 2 grammes.\\nBalsam of Judea 5 drops.\\nAdd four or five drops of the mixture to half a glass of water,\\nand use this at night as a lotion, letting it dry on the face. In the\\nmorning wash the face in water from which the chill has been taken off.\\nFor coarse complexions a very effectual remedy is a cotton mask\\nsaturated with distilled water and worn at night. To refine a coarse,\\nstippled skin, six or seven weeks will be necessary, but the result will\\nbe ample compensation for the trouble taken.\\nAn excellent paste for refining the complexion is composed of three\\nounces of ground barley, one ounce of honey and the white of an Qgg-\\nThis is to be spread at night on the cheeks, nose and forehead, and\\nwashed off in the morning with tepid water.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 27", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0513.jp2"}, "512": {"fulltext": "512 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nFor a blotched skin a wash composed of one ounce of glycerine,\\nhalf an ounce of rosemary water and twenty drops of carbolic acid,\\nwill be found very effectual.\\nSKIN FOOD WITHOUT LANOLIN\\nSweet almond oil. .4 ounces.\\nSpermaceti 1 ounce.\\nWhite wax 1 ounce.\\nPulverized borax 1^ drachms.\\nGlycerine ^i ounces.\\nOrange flower water ounce.\\nOil of neroli 1 drop.\\nTincture of benzoin drachm.\\nMelt the wax, spermaceti and oil of almonds together. Dissolve the\\nborax in the orange flower water and glycerine. Add to the melted in-\\ngredients, stirring continually. The mixture must be beaten until it is\\ncold. Just before the mass hardens add the benzoin drop by drop and\\nthe perfume.\\nFOR RELAXED SKIN\\nWhere the skin is much relaxed a slightly astringent water may be\\nused with good effect\\nGet eight ounces of orange flower water and one-fourth drachm of\\nsimple tincture of benzoin. Drop the benzoin a little at a time into the\\norange flower water. Shake the bottle. The result will be a milky\\nliquid. Dip a linen cloth into a little of this liquid and bathe the face.\\nIf it feel drawn add a little more orange flower water. Tincture of ben-\\nzoin varies somewhat in strength. It should not feel uncomfortable upon\\nthe face. When it does, and pulls the skin, it is too powerful.\\nFOR SHINY SKIN\\nIf as well as being shiny the skin appear greasy also, you cannot do\\nbetter than bathe it twice a day with this lotion\\nSulphate of zinc 30 grains.\\nEau de Cologne 1 ounce.\\nRose water 2 ounces.\\nLOTION FOR AN OILY SKIN (No. i)\\nThere is nothing more discouraging than the oily face, which seems\\nto be constitutional, almost, with some women. I have had good", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0514.jp2"}, "513": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 513\\nsuccess lately with the simple remedy which I here give, and which\\nin many cases will remove the shiny appearance of the most obdurate\\noily faces\\nBoric acid 1 drachm.\\nDistilled witch hazel 4 ounces.\\nApply with a piece of old linen or a bit of absorbent cotton.\\nLOTION FOR AN OILY SKIN (No. 2)\\nAn old remedy for an oily skin is being revived. It is made as fol-\\nlows\\nPulverized borax 1 ounce.\\nPure glycerine 2 ounces.\\nCamphor water (not spirits of camphor) 2 quarts.\\nThe skin should be bathed with this lotion two or three times a\\nday, and the treatment should be persisted in for three months at least.\\nLOTION FOR AN OILY SKIN (No. 3)\\nWhere the oiliness of the skin is excessive the following lotion ap-\\nplied two or three times daily is excellent\\nSulphate of zinc 2 grains.\\nCompound tincture of lavender 8 drops.\\nDistilled water 1 ounce.\\nFOR DRY AND SCALY SKIN\\nWhen the skin is inclined to become dry and scaly from expo-\\nsure, the following lotion mav be used with excellent effect\\nIodide of potassium 1 to 2 drachms.\\nDistilled water 1 pint.\\nDissolve and add one ounce of pure glycerine.\\nTO SOFTEN THE SKIN OF THE FACE\\nLanolin 1 ounce.\\nAlmond oil 1 ounce.\\nSimple tincture of benzoin ounce.\\nMix the three ingredients thoroughly together and rub into the\\nskin at night before going to bed.", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0515.jp2"}, "514": {"fulltext": "514 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nBLOTCHY SKINS\\nThe following wash will sometimes be found very effective for this\\nmost annoying trouble\\nGlycerine 1 ounce.\\nRosemary water ounce.\\nCarbolic acid 20 drops.\\nMix thoroughly and apply to the face with a soft bit of linen or a\\nvelvet sponge.\\nCUCUMBERS FOR THE COMPLEXION\\nThe average girl, country or city, knows little of the value of cucum-\\nbers as a complexion beautifier.\\nPeel a cucumber, cut in thick slices, and apply to the face, allowing\\nthe liquid to dry of its own accord. This will make the skin soft and\\nwhite.\\nNEW CURE FOR WRINKLES\\nEven very young women are seen with strongly-marked wrinkles in\\nthe forehead which they have acquired through contracting the brows.\\nA friend tells me that these wrinkles will disappear under the following\\ntreatment\\nBind the forehead at night with a compress of new linen soaked in a\\nmixture of equal parts of alcohol and white of egg. Allow the compress\\nto remain on all night and continue the treatment until the wrinkles\\nhave disappeared.\\nWrinkles may sometimes be effaced by the following treatment, if\\npersistently continued\\nCut some narrow strips of court-plaster, then, with the thumb and\\nforefinger of one hand, stretch the skin furrowed by the wrinkle until\\nit is perfectly smooth, and with the other hand apply over the wrinkle\\na strip of the court-plaster. This application is of course best made\\nat night.\\nThe following mixture, used as a lotion, is of great eflBcacy in re-\\nmoving wrinkles, but it is a little difficult to prepare, and requires, in\\naddition, to be distilled\\nIn 350 grammes of alcohol dissolve,\\nPulverized gum benzoin 2 grammes.\\nFrankincense 2 grammes.\\nGum arable 2 grammes.", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0516.jp2"}, "515": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4348", "width": "2780", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0517.jp2"}, "516": {"fulltext": "ijCILBERT\\nTHE PROPER WAY TO USE THE CAMEL S-HAIR FACE-SCRUBBING BRUSH\\n(516)", "height": "4364", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0518.jp2"}, "517": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 517\\nWhen dissolved add,\\nPine-nut kernels, pulverized 3 grammes.\\nSweet almonds, pulverized 3 grammes.\\nCloves, pulverized 1 gramme.\\nNutmeg, pulverized 1 gramme.\\nLet the mixture stand for two days, stirring it twice daily. Then\\nadd,\\nRose water 45 grammes.\\nDistill to half the quantity.\\nIf a still is not at hand, a substitute may be made by fastening\\nto the spout of the kettle an India-rubber tube, which, passing through\\na vessel of cold water, will conduct the steam, condensed in its pas-\\nsage through the water, into a receiving vessel.\\nLOTION FOR PREMATURE WRINKLES\\nRose water 12 fluid ounces.\\nAlmond milk 3 fluid ounces.\\nSulphate of aluminium 120 grains.\\nFOR BROWN SPOTS\\nBrown spots are caused by some disturbance of the liver. I don t\\nthink any external application will have very much effect so long as the\\ncause remains. You might try this lotion, which will at least be tem-\\nporarily effective\\nBichloride of mercury (coarse powder) 12 grains.\\nExtract of witch hazel 2 ounces.\\nRose water 2 ounces.\\nMix. Mop over the spots night and morning. Bichloride of mercury\\nis a dangerous poison, and while perfectly proper to use as here sug-\\ngested, should be kept out of the reach of ignorant persons and children.\\nINSTEAD OF COLD CREAM\\nCold cream disagrees with many skins. If it make the skin rough\\ntry a little sweet almond oil, slightly perfumed with attar of roses or\\nbergamot every night after washing. It should be well massaged in,\\nand the face then gently wiped with a soft rag or towel till all superflu-\\nous oil is removed,", "height": "4364", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0519.jp2"}, "518": {"fulltext": "518 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nTO CURE RINGWORM\\nTo cure ringworm, add to one part of sulphuric acid sixteen to twenty\\nparts water. Use a brush or feather, and apply it to the ringworm night\\nand morning. A few dressings will generally cure. If the solution be\\ntoo strong dilute it with more water, and if the irritation be excessive\\napply a little vaseline, but avoid soap.\\nA dainty rose soap is made as follows\\nROSEBUD SOAP\\nWhite castile soap (pure) 3 pounds.\\nWhite curd soap 2 pounds.\\nDistilled water pint.\\nMelt together in a custard boiler, and add of\\nVermilion (powdered) ounce.\\nAfter the mixture has cooled a little, stir in\\nAttar of roses 1 drachm.\\nOil of bergamot 1^ drachms.\\nOil of cinnamon drachm.\\nOil of rose geranium drachm.\\nPour into molds to harden.\\nENLARGED PORES\\nIt takes a long time to cure enlarged pores, and the only way I know\\nof is by the use of the scrubbing brush and a pure hygienic soap. By\\nthis process the pores, which have become enlarged by the clogged secre-\\ntions, are kept free, and gradually they will contract and become normal\\nin size. I know of thousands of cures effected in this manner.\\nFOR OBSTINATE FRECKLES\\nWhere everything else has failed, the woman with obstinate freckles\\nmay with benefit try the formula I here give and which has succeeded\\nin a very obdurate case under my care\\nOxide of zinc drachm.\\nSubiodide of bismuth drachm.\\nDextrin 1\u00c2\u00a3 drachms.\\nGlycerine 1^ drachms.\\nSpread the paste upon the freckles at night before going to bed.\\nIn the morning remove what remains with a little powdered borax and\\nsweet oil.", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0520.jp2"}, "519": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 519\\nHEROIC REMEDY FOR FRECKLES\\nDistilled water 12 ounces.\\nDextrin 1 ounce.\\nGlycerine 4 ounces.\\nOxide of zinc 320 grains.\\nOxychloride of bismuth 120 grains.\\nMercuric chloride 12 grains.\\nThis being a powerful application, it should be used very sparingly\\nand applied to the parts affected with a soft camel s-hair brush.\\nA SIMPLE FRECKLE LOTION\\nLight freckles may in a measure be controlled in some cases by\\nbathing the face frequently with a lotion composed of three grains of\\nborax in five drachms each of rose water and orange flower water.\\nLEMON JUICE FOR FRECKLES\\nThirty grains of pulverized borax, dissolved in two and one-half ounces\\nof lemon juice, makes a lotion that is very effective in keeping freckles\\nin abeyance, where it agrees with the skin.\\nIt should be applied at night after the face has been thoroughly\\nwashed and rinsed.\\nHINTS ON THE HAIR\\nTonic for the Falling Hair After Illness\\nFOR FALLING HAIR (No. i)\\nVinegar of cantharides 1 ounce.\\nCologne water 1 ounce.\\nGlycerine of borax 1 ounce.\\nAdd distilled water until the whole amounts to six ounces. Rub\\nthis mixture into the roots of the hair every night.\\nFOR FALLING HAIR (No. 2)\\nAromatic vinegar 3 drachms.\\nAcetic acid 1 ounce.\\nTincture of cantharides 1 ounce.\\nLavender water 2 ounces.\\nRose water 6 ounces.\\nThis should be well rubbed in the roots three times a week at bed-\\ntime, before brushing it,", "height": "4348", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0521.jp2"}, "520": {"fulltext": "520\\nHARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nCURE FOR BALD SPOTS\\nWhere the hair falls out in spots try the following wash\\nDistilled rose water\\nAromatic vinegar\\nPure glycerine\\nTincture of nux vomica\\nTincture of cantharides\\n180 grammes.\\n20 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\n15 grammes.\\n10 grammes.\\nMix thoroughly apply night and morning with friction.\\nFOR EARLY BALDNESS\\nThe following lotion has produced a growth of hair upon bald\\nspots. It is not recommended when baldness is of long standing or\\nwhere the scalp has assumed the gloss or shine peculiar to the skin\\nafter the actual death of the hair roots, but in young cases it has been\\nvery successful\\nSulphate of quinine\\nTincture of cantharides\\nTincture of rhatany\\nSpirits of lavender\\nGlycerine\\nAlcohol\\n8 grains.\\n1^ drachms.\\n2^ drachms.\\n1 ounce.\\nounce.\\n8 ounces.\\nApply night and morning until the new growth is established.\\nFOR DRYNESS OF THE HAIR\\nCocoanut oil 1^ ounces.\\nLanolin 1 ounce.\\nGlycerine 4 drachms.\\nTincture of jaborandi 4 drachms.\\nRub the mixture well into the hair every night. It should remedy\\nthe dryness.\\nTONIC FOR THE SCALP\\nAromatic vinegar\\nGlycerine\\nTincture of nux vomica\\nTincture of cantharides\\nRose water\\ndrachms,\\ndrachms.\\n2J drachms.\\n2 drachms.\\n6 drachms.\\nUse every night, rubbing it well into the scalp with a small sponge,", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0522.jp2"}, "521": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 521\\nA HAIR TONIC\\nCologne 8 ounces.\\nTincture of cantharides 1 ounce.\\nOil of English lavender drachm.\\nOil of rosemary J drachm.\\nApply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day. It is posi-\\ntively necessary that the scalp should be kept clean. Shampoo at least\\nonce a week.\\nLOTION FOR DRY HAIR\\nPhenic acid\\nTincture of nux vomica\\nTincture of red cinchona\\nTincture of cantharides\\nCologne\\nSweet almond oil\\n2 grammes.\\n7^ grammes.\\n30 grammes.\\n2 grammes.\\n180 grammes.\\n60 prammes.\\nApply to the roots of the hair with a soft sponge once or twice a\\nday. This lotion is especially good for very dry hair.\\nA FAMOUS HAxR TONIC\\nTwenty-five years ago a hair tonic called Tricopherous was used in\\nevery city and town in the United States. Its originator made a for-\\ntune. The formula was long a secret. Tricopherous was made as\\nfollows\\nCastor oil pint.\\nPure alcohol pint.\\nTincture of cantharides ounce.\\nOil of bergamot 2 drachms.\\nColor a pale pink with alkanet root.\\nTONIC FOR OILY HAIR\\nWitch hazel 2 ounces.\\nAlcohol 2 ounces.\\nDistilled water 1 ounce.\\nResorcin 40 grains.\\nApply every night, rubbing it thoroughly into the scalp.", "height": "4332", "width": "2724", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0523.jp2"}, "522": {"fulltext": "522 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nTEA HAIR TONIC\\nBlack tea as a basis for a hair tonic is successful in many cases.\\nIt can be made so easily and costs so little that it is worth trying.\\nFormula\\nBay rum 2 ounces.\\nGlycerine 2 ounces.\\nAlcohol 2 ounces.\\nInfusion of black tea 10 ounces.\\nMix and perfume to suit.\\nThe tea infusion should be made very strong, say an ounce of tea\\nto ten or twelve ounces of boiling water. Let it steep for twenty\\nminutes, then stand till cool; strain and add the other ingredients\\napply with a soft Sponge to the roots of the hair. It will darken\\nblond hair.\\nKEROSENE HAIR WASH\\nKerosene oil is unquestionably a tonic and a hair grower. The dis-\\nadvantages are in its odor and the fact that it is so inflammable. The\\nway to use it is to rub the roots of the hair well at night with pure kero-\\nsene, which should be left on until the following morning. Then the\\nhair should be shampooed, and the kerosene application should be re-\\npeated about every fourth night. I do not advise kerosene, because its\\nuse has been attended by so many accidents.\\nAN EXCELLENT SHAMPOO\\nMelt a cake of pure olive oil soap in a quart of boiling water. When\\nthe soap is dissolved the result will be almost a jelly. Take of this jelly,\\nsay, two large tablespoonfuls, and a small lump of common w^ashing soda\\nabout the size of a filbert.\\nPASTES FOR CHAPPED HANDS\\nI\\nGround barley, the white of an egg, one teaspoonful of glycerine\\n?ind one ounce of honey.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0524.jp2"}, "523": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 523\\nII\\nHome-made soft soap pound.\\nOlive oil 1 gill.\\nMutton tallow 1 ounce.\\nAfter boiling these together, remove them from the fire before\\nadding\\nSpirits of wine 1 gill.\\nAmbergris, or some other perfume, to an amount to suit the taste,\\nalways being on your guard not to scent things too highly.\\nIll\\nRefined pine tar 1 teaspoonful.\\nOlive oil 1 pint.\\nMelt in water bath, scenting with rose water or some other per-\\nfume. This is a preparation which does not spoil.\\nThe following two preparations, for use with cosmestic gloves, are\\nslightly more elaborate\\nI\\nMyrrh 1 ounce.\\nHoney 4 ounces.\\nYellow wax 2 ounces.\\nRose water 6 ounces.\\nMelt the wax in a water bath, and add the myrrh to it while it\\nis hot. After beating them up together, add the honey and rose\\nwater. Beat all up and add glycerine by the teaspoonful until you\\nsecure a paste which will spread nicely.\\nII\\nOil of sweet almonds 2 teaspoonfuls.\\nGlycerine 1 teaspoonful.\\nRice flour 1 teaspoonful.\\nFresh eggs 2 yolks.\\nRose water 1 ounce.\\nTincture of benzoin 36 drops.\\nBeat up until the mixture forms a paste,", "height": "4348", "width": "2700", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0525.jp2"}, "524": {"fulltext": "524 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nIII\\nAnother preparation for cosmetic gloves is made as follows\\nFresh eggs 2 yolks.\\nOil of sweet almonds 2 tablespoonfuls.\\nRose water 30 grammes.\\nTincture of benzoin 8 grammes.\\nBeat the yolks with the oil then add the rose water, and lastly the\\ntincture of benzoin.\\nBURNS\\nBoracic acid 1 drachm.\\nGlycerine 1 ounce.\\nOlive oil 1 ounce.\\nBURNS AND SCALDS\\nI\\nBicarbonate of sodium 1 ounce.\\nSubnitrate of bismuth 1 ounce.\\nII\\nCreasote 30 drops.\\nCocaine hydrochlorate 20 grains.\\nLime water 1 pint.\\nLinseed oil 1 pint.\\nIll\\nSolution of subacetate of lead 2 ounces.\\nTincture of opium 1 ounce.\\nDistilled witch hazel 1 ounce.\\nHousehold Remedies\\nbaldness\\nI\\nOintment of 10 per cent, oleate of mercury ouncQ.\\nLanolin, or prepared suet ounce.\\nRub well into the scalp.", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0526.jp2"}, "525": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 525\\nII\\nTincture of capsicum 2 drachms.\\nWater of ammonia 1 ounce.\\nPilocarpine hydrochlorate 5 grains.\\nCologne 3 ounces.\\nUse on the scalp twice a day.\\nIll\\nFluid extract of pilocarpine 1 ounce.\\nSoap liniment 3 ounces.\\nRub thoroughly into the scalp night and morning.\\nBITES OF INSECTS AND ERUPTIONS\\nI\\nBeta-naphthol 1 drachm.\\nCologne pint.\\nApply to the irritated skin. This is suitable for alleviating the\\nsmarting from the bites of any kind of insects.\\nII\\nOintment of oleate of mercury 1 ounce.\\nCamphor 10 grains.\\nRub well into the skin.\\nIll\\nIpecacuanha 1 ounce.\\nAlcohol 1 ounce.\\nApply to the skin.\\nTHE EYES AND EYEBROWS\\nWhen the eyes have become irritated through excessive use, a\\ncompress of fine linen wet with very cold water applied to them\\nand changed as often as it becomes warm will generally relieve", "height": "4352", "width": "2688", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0527.jp2"}, "526": {"fulltext": "526 HARRIET HUBBARD AYER\\nthem. If the irritation continue, the following lotion will probably\\nprove efficacious\\nDistilled water 1 kilogramme.\\nRosemary flowers 30 grammes.\\nSteep the rosemary flowers in the water for a week, then strain,\\nand to the strained water add the following\\nRose water 30 grammes.\\nBrandy 30 grammes.\\nThe Moorish women darken their eyebrows and eyelashes with a\\ndye made as follows\\nGallnuts 25 grammes.\\nSulphate of iron 5 grammes.\\nWater 150 grammes.\\nBoil the gallnuts in the water for half an hour, strain through fine\\nmuslin, and add to the strained water the five grains of the sulphate of\\niron. Boil again until the liquor is reduced to two-thirds. Apply with\\na sable pencil to the eyebrows and to the edge of the eyelid at the roots\\nof the lashes. The operation is to be repeated three times. The bottle\\ncontaining the dye should be tightly corked.\\nFOR SCANT EYEBROWS\\nNothing so weakens the expression of a woman s face as scant,\\nscraggy eyebrows. Women so afflicted should use the following oint-\\nment, which will strengthen the growth and improve their appearance\\nRed vaseline 2 ounces.\\nTincture of cantharides ounce.\\nOil of lavender 15 drops.\\nOil of rosemary 15 drops.\\nMix thoroughly. Apply to the eyebrows with a tiny toothbrush\\nonce a day until the growth is sufficiently stimulated. Then less often.\\nThis ointment may be used for the eyelashes also. In this case\\nit should be very carefully applied. It will inflame the eyes, as any\\noil will, if it get into them.\\nWhatever one may think of the propriety of clipping the eye-\\nlashes, there can be no two opinions as to the cutting of the eyebrows\\nor in any way subjecting them to the action of the scissors or razor.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0528.jp2"}, "527": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 527\\nThe beauty of the eyebrow consists in its being smooth, glossy and\\nwell defined in having little breadth vertically and in extending in a\\ngraceful arched line over the eyes.\\nCutting them ultimately destroys all these qualities by causing\\nthem to grow coarse, stiff and irregular. The toilet of the eyebrow\\nis simple. A tiny brush, moistened with a very little vaseline, may be\\npassed over the eyebrow and the brush may be used to narrow the\\nform. This is all the care they require.\\nIf eyebrows are too scanty the face is likely to look insipid,\\nwhile those of the bushy variety are not artistic, and tend to make\\none look unduly fierce or masculine. The color should be a shade\\ndarker than the hair.\\nThe brows must never be rubbed or brushed except from the roots\\nto the ends. Women sometimes fall into the habit of rubbing them\\nthe wrong way. After they have been treated in this manner it will\\nbe almost impossible to get them to lie flat and smooth, and they soon\\nbecome short and bristly.", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0529.jp2"}, "528": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX D\\nList of Medicated Soaps\\nAlum Soap, used in greasy seborrheas, pustular eczema, etc.\\nAmber Soap, used for enlarged glands, moles, warts, etc.\\nArnica Soap, used for abrasions, wounds, bruises, boils, carbuncles,\\nsore nipples, etc.\\nBalsam Soap, used in indolent ulcers, etc.\\nBoro-Glyceride Soap, used for cleansing wounds and ulcers, and\\nin allaying inflammation, etc.\\nCamphor Soap, frequently used for pruritus, accompanying eczema,\\nchilblains, etc.\\nCarbolic Acid Soap, used in chronic eczema, etc.\\nChamomile Soap, used for chafed surfaces, for seborrhea, for exces-\\nsive secretion of the skin, and foul-smelling sores.\\nChamomile and Sulphur Soap, used in dry seborrhea, loss of hair,\\netc.\\nElder Flower Soap, used in sunburn, etc.\\nErgot Soap, used in eczema, etc.\\nEucALYPTOL Soap, used for foul-smelling sores and ulcers, and also\\nfor fetid perspiration.\\nGlycerine Soap, used for roughness of the skin, chapping, etc.\\nIodide of Sulphur Soap, used for chronic ulcers, yellowish-brown\\nor blackish patches on the skin, freckles, etc.\\nIodine Soap, used for scrofulous skin affections, etc.\\nKino Soap, used for eczema, ulcers, etc.\\n(528)", "height": "4348", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0530.jp2"}, "529": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX 529\\nLead Soap, used for boils, carbuncles, abrasions of the skin, bed-\\nsores, etc.\\nNapthol Soap, used for fetid perspiration, and in eczema, and for\\nbites of insects.\\nNapthol-Sulphue Soap, used for itching, bites of insects, eczema,\\nseborrhea and fetid perspiration.\\nSalicylic Acid Soap, used in thickening the skin on the palms of\\nthe hands and soles of the feet, for pustular eczema, fetid perspiration,\\nfoul wounds and sores, and for toilet purposes.\\nSublimate or Bichloride of Mercury Soap, used in animal para-\\nsitic diseases, freckles, pigmentary spots on the skin, and effective in\\nrelieving itching of the skin.\\nSulphur Soap, used in rosacea, etc.\\nTannin Soap, used for ulcers, for excessive perspiration,, oily sebor-\\nrhea, etc.\\nTannin-Balsam Soap, used for wounds, ulcers, chilblains, etc.\\nTar Soap, used in chronic eczema, etc.\\nThymol Soap, used for ulcers, wounds and pustular eczema, etc.\\nTurpentine Soap. This soap is sometimes used under the name\\nof Starkey s Soap. It is used for chilblains, etc.\\nWiNTERGREEN SoAP, uscd in eczema, etc.\\nWitch-Hazel Soap, used in eczema, for fetid perspiration, and in\\nloss of hair.\\nA.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 28", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0531.jp2"}, "530": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX E\\nTable of Measures\\n1 pint contains 16 fluid ounces (4 gills).\\n1 ounce contains 8 fluid drachms giU)*\\n1 tablespoonful contains about fluid ounce.\\n1 teaspoonful contains about 1 fluid drachm.\\n1 teaspoonful is equal in volume to 45 drops of pure water (dis-\\ntilled) at 60 degrees Fahrenheit.\\n4 teaspoonfuls are equal to 1 tablespoonful or fluid ounce.\\n16 tablespoonfuls are equal to pint.\\n1 wineglassful (common size) contains 4 tablespoonfuls, or 2\\nfluid ounces.\\n1 teacupful is equal to 8 fluid ounces or 2 gills.\\n4 teacupfuls are equal to 1 quart.\\n1 common-sized tumbler holds about pint.\\n1 gramme equals 15 and a fraction grains.\\n32 grammes equal 1 ounce.\\n125 grammes equal 4 ounces.\\n500 grammes equal 16 ounces.\\n(530)", "height": "4340", "width": "2856", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0532.jp2"}, "531": {"fulltext": "MRS. AVER AND HER DAUGHTER, MARGARET\\nFROM VERY RECENT PHOTOGRAPH\\nThis is tlie little daughter shown on page 32.\\n(531)", "height": "4356", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0533.jp2"}, "532": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4284", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0534.jp2"}, "533": {"fulltext": "j^mn]\\nAbdomen, deep breathing for, 431 how to re-\\nduce, 353; average woman weak about the,\\n353.\\nAbscesses, produced from using bust developer,\\n253.\\nAcids, mineral, destructive to the nails, 283;\\nlactic, its formation and effect upon the\\nteeth, 231 acidity of the stomach destructive\\nto the complexion, 206; acetic, in removal of\\nsmallpox marks, 168.\\nAfflictions, physical, not a part of God s work, 47.\\nAge, the first signs of, 249; lines of, 255;\\nevery woman looks her; amatterof feeling,41.\\nAlmond meal, formula for 280\\nAmandine, formula for, a delightful compound\\nfor the toilet, 280.\\nAmbidextrousness, advisability of; how children\\ncan be trained to, 279.\\nAnimals, care we bestow upon 47\\nArm, The bony, not necessary, 243 superfluous\\nhair on, 246 lumpy, not beautiful, 243 de-\\nscription of beautiful, 244; effect of scrubbing-\\nbrush on lotion for red lotion for whitening,\\n246 treatment for, when unusually thin, 245\\nrough skin made smooth on, 247 exercises to\\ndevelop flaccid, 248; to remove superfluous\\nhair from, 111; to bleach superfluous hair\\nupon, 112.\\nB\\nBaby, The, general rules for feeding, 385 first\\nthing to be done for the newborn, 380; treat-\\nment of navel cord after it separates, 385;\\nnewborn, need no artificial food; wet nurse\\nbest substitute for mother; mistake for nurses\\nto feed newborn, 384; how to prepare cow s\\nmilk for, 389 clothing for, 383 long, useless\\ndresses for, 384 care of a teething, 226 when\\nit should be weaned, 389 schedule of diet for,\\nwhen brought up by hand, 386-8; important\\nto know how to carry old-fashioned method\\nof pinning clothes abandoned; great care\\nshould be devoted to dressing, 393 tempera-\\nture of room and bath when bathing bathing\\nand dressing, 390; when, should commence to\\nwalk accomplishments of ,396 model nursing\\nbottle for old-time nursing tube responsible\\nfor death of; bottle-fed versus nursing; diet-\\nary for, discussed, 395; vaseline takes the\\nplace of powder for; doctors opinion on ven-\\ntilation for; don t rock, to sleep, 394; weights\\nand measurements of, 397; when troubled\\nwith weak eyes time should be allowed out\\nof doors, 396 good looks of; may be trained\\ninto great physical beauty, 398 when, should\\ncut its teeth; increase of weight in weight of,\\nat birth, 397; care of teeth of, 403; remedy\\nfor prickly heat; treatment for scald head,\\n404; how to mold outstanding ears, 398;\\nskeleton cap for outstanding ears, 401; many\\nyoung, have bumpy heads treatment for mis-\\nshapen heads, 402 how to mold flat noses,\\n401-2; how to dress the newborn, 380.\\nBacteria multiply when assisted by conditions\\nof warmth, 231.\\nBags, recipe for bran and almond meal 71\\nBaker, Martha (Appendix B), how she was\\ncured of obesity without drugs, 477 her di-\\nmensions at beginning of treatment; her\\nbill of fare, 478 her condition at the end of\\nher second week s treatment, 482; her meas-\\nurements at three periods during treatment,\\n484; her weights and measurements at\\nweekly periods during her treatment, 488;\\nexercise, 491 a letter from patient after her\\ncure, 492; a day s treatment of, 460; the\\ncure perfected, 469; reports of the jury who\\nexamined her case her letter of thanks for\\nher cure, 470 another letter from the patient\\none year later, 478.\\nBaldness, treatment for; lotion for; liniment\\nfor, 526 cure for, spots lotion for early, 520.\\n(533)", "height": "4340", "width": "2812", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0535.jp2"}, "534": {"fulltext": "534\\nGENERAL INDEX\\nBath, beauty recipe for; gelatine recipe for;\\nthe aristocracy s recipe for, 84; when to take\\nsea, 365 value of sea; sea, poor for the com-\\nplexion, 70; Turkish, when to take, 79; sul-\\nphur; the electric, a rejuvenator, 80; aro-\\nmatic, for nervous women, 83; hard water\\napt to make skin coarse, 69; toilet water for;\\nHungary water for; aromatic vinegar for;\\ncautions concerning; when to take a cold, 75;\\nwhen to take as a stimulant, 72 luxuries per-\\ntaining to, 71; time after eating for; the all-\\nover scrub; effects of quick, hot, and tepid;\\nto induce sleep; value of rain water for, 69;\\nfew women know real meaning of; the great\\nsecret of beauty; first of all the daily, 65;\\ntemperature of, 66.\\nBattery, cost of 10-cell galvanic 83\\nBeauty, the value of cleanliness to, 142; the\\nnational habit of pie-eating a foe to, 126;\\nwill cause a man to fall in love, 85 the road\\nto, known to the Greeks and Romans, 65 the\\nprice of perfect physical, 64; versus temper,\\n114 no moral danger in, 56 restoration of\\nyouthful to prevent the destruction of the\\nmaximum possibility for, 49 no royal road\\nto, 46; pursuit of, as old as the world, 40; its\\nopulent and splendid maturity; pursuit of,\\nowes its origin toman; crown of life s happi-\\nness, 36; every woman desires to possess, 35;\\nwe were created with a love of; woman the\\nhighest expression of, 30 every vestige of,\\ngoes from the woman who drinks; nothing\\nwill so soon destroy, as dissipation, 325; ex-\\ncess is fatal to, 326; dependent upon health,\\n359; not possible without good health, 244;\\nyouthful, of American girl, rarely outlives\\nthird society season, 321; effect of dissipation\\non, 327; types of, 265.\\nBeds should not be soft 372\\nBergman, Miss, a skillful teacher of Swedish\\nmovements, 354.\\nBernhardt s, Sara, tribute to hot water; how\\nshe retained her marvelous complexion, 75\\nfascinating at fifty, 42.\\nBlackheads, first place of appearance of, 141;\\nthe one way of getting rid of, 138 appearance\\nof, in the skin, 137 value of camel s-hair face-\\nscrubbing brush in cases of, 140 treatment\\nprevious to removal of; careful operation of\\nremoving, 138; a Vienna dermatologist s\\nremedy for; treatment of obstinate cases, 139\\nin the shell of the ear; how to remove, 220.\\nBlemishes, above and below the skin; warts and\\nmoles; pigmentary and hairy; coloring mat-\\nter which causes, 164; warts and the removal\\nof; extreme care necessary in application of\\nremedies for; danger of leaving marks in re-\\nmoving, 165.\\nBody, symmetry of upper and lower; dispropor-\\ntion of, 262.\\nBorax, solution of, for teething babies 226\\nBotot, formula for the famous eau 229\\nBreath, formula for offensive, 223; time to take\\na full, 343.\\nBreathing, a good system of, 331; first of all\\nshould come proper, 328 deep, may become a\\nnatural accompaniment; nine-tenths of our\\ncolds can be cured by; few of us make a\\npractice of deep; ordinary, does not reach\\nthe bottom of the lungs, 331 cultivate, in the\\nopen air, 332.\\nBrush, for the flesh; every woman should\\npossess, 66 children should be taught the use\\nof the tooth, 226; camel s-hair face-scrubbing,\\ndescription of, where obtained, 66.\\nBunions, cause of; how to treat, 308; how to\\nprevent, 309; pointed-toed shoes a maker of,\\n310.\\nBurns, formula to relieve 524\\nBust, treatment for increasing the; to make\\nfirm the, 254 abnormal development of the\\nthe padded, of twenty-five years ago, 252;\\nhow to decrease a too fleshy, 253.\\nCalisthenics, meaning of, 244 books on, for use\\nof dumb-bells, 336.\\nCathay skin food 421\\nCatherine Lane (Appendix A A human\\nwreck restored to health and beauty without\\ndrugs or stimulants of any kind, 456.\\nChalk, camphorated, formula for 226\\nCharacter, how to read, from the features, 405\\nnot fair to judge of, because of one feature,\\n406.\\nCharms, preservation of, 46 that keep a woman\\nqueen of her realm, 266.\\nChest, The, movements for developing, 344;\\ntraining for girls with flat, 345 expansion,\\nsimple methods to develop, 349.\\nChilblains, cause of, a treatment for, 288 treat-\\nment by electricity, 166.\\nChild, the right to be well born of every, 379.\\nChin, The, receding indicates weak will power;\\na telltale feature, 410; the square, a good\\nsign; a round and well- formed, denotes a\\nsweet temper, 413; premature double, 251.\\nCleanliness, personal; will preserve a man s\\naffection, 85; next to Godliness, 65.\\nChurchill s, Lady Randolph, graceful neck and\\nhead, 250.\\nCollars, linen and pretty necks, 254; marks\\nabout the throat, 243; the close-fitting re-\\nstricts circulation, 256; the high stiff, destruc-\\ntive to pretty throats, 255..\\nComeliness recommends virtue 46", "height": "4348", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0536.jp2"}, "535": {"fulltext": "GENERAL INDEX\\n535\\nComplexion, the American girl s poor, 125; for\\nbrown spots on the what to use when cold\\ncream does not agree with the, 517, cucumbers\\nfor the, 514; for refining coarse; excellent\\npreparation for the, 511 a simple recipe for,\\n509; skin food for, without lanolin, 512;\\neffects of lacing on, 270 efficacy of hot cloths\\nin the treatment of; Austrian women noted\\nfor their fine, 156 wretchedness of a woman\\nwith a poor, 129; general ignorance about\\ntreatment of, 151; of red-haired girls, 55;\\nsummer trying to the to preserve the, against\\nsun and wind, 190.\\nConsumption, symptoms of 254\\nCorns, causes of; to remove soft; to relieve\\npain of; pernicious effect of acids in treat-\\nment of a cure for, 306 a French plaster for,\\n307.\\nCorsets, what they will do for a woman s figure,\\nnot necessary for slight, willowy women, 275\\nwell constructed a blessing; nonsense written\\nabout, 272; mistake American women make\\nin buying the coffin, which makes a trav-\\nesty of the human form, 276.\\nCosmetics, shall we use, and when, 436 a liquid\\nrouge, 440; formula for rouge; formula for a\\nwhite face-powder, 439; a liquid whitener;\\nthe atrocious made-up woman, 438; use\\nof, among our grandmammas, 436 the man\\nwho objects to, 436 the time when a woman\\nshould use; indiscriminate painting of the\\nface, hair dyeing, or bleaching; woman should\\nalways be the judge in use of; attacks on, 435\\nunbecoming to youthful faces, 437.\\nCramps, what to do when attacked by 265\\nCuticle, affections of, treatment by galvanic\\ncurrent; blemishes cured by absorption, 166.\\nD\\nDandruff, the cause of, 101; the effect of poor\\ndiet and bad ventilation on formula to keep\\nfrom accumulating; scurf or furfura; Dr.\\nVigier s remedy for; parasites; substances\\nfor removing, 102.\\nDentifrice, formula for famous, 229.\\nDentistry, preventive measures of, 232 we live\\nin the age of wonderful, 222; beautiful scien-\\ntific, of to-day, 228; enamel inlays taking\\nthe place of gold fillings, 234; enamel of the\\nteeth worn away by incorrect brushing, 226;\\nfeatures restored by cosmetic, 235.\\nDepilatories, great care advised in use of, 247.\\nDigestion, walking an aid to; low spirits ruin;\\nlaughter will aid, 420.\\nDowdiness, danger of drifting into, not confined\\nto any station, 50. the description of, 51.\\nDress, reforms and their fads, 272; consolation\\nin being well dressed, 48; for gymnastics must\\nbe loose, 343.\\nDrowning, how to rescue the 366\\nDyspepsia, a remedy for nervous 419\\nEar, description of a perfect; the projecting,\\nand how to cure; mothers and nurses to\\nblame for deformed erysipelas developed by\\npiercing the; the patent skeleton cap for out-\\nstanding, 216; treatment for deafness, 208;\\neczema of the, and treatment, 217; consult\\nan aurist for continuous deafness; children\\nsubject to running from, 218; blackheads in\\nthe shell of, and how to expel them; living\\ninsects in the, and how to destroy, 220;\\ntreatment for hardened cerumen in the;\\ntoilet of the, 219; a significant feature; de-\\nscription of the aesthetic; what a flabby, long,\\nindicates a steadfast, courageous, described,\\n416.\\nEarache, children liable to the, 217 lotion for\\nthe, 218, Duval s cure; successful formula\\nfor, 219.\\nEczema, symptoms of, its cause and its result,\\n145; remedies for, 147; a pomade for, 148;\\nBroco formula for; affections of the eyelids\\nby, and a lotion for, 149; camphorated soap\\nfor, 150; treatment by electricity, 166; of\\nthe ear, treatment for, 217.\\nElectricity for treatment of rheumatism; won-\\nderful in facial treatments; important in\\nremoving wrinkles shocks are blunders re-\\nsulting from ignorance; in treatment for\\nneuralgia, 83; treatment of baldness by, 166.\\nElectrolysis, treatment by, in acne, 166; one\\ncase where everv hair root was killed by, 110\\nexpense of, 108; birthmarks amenable to,\\n166; a remedy for warts, moles, and other\\npigmentary disturbances, 165.\\nEmaciation, diet for, described; plenty of fresh\\nair to cure: helpful suggestions to cure; milk\\ndiet and exercise for; suitable clothing for,\\n418 what to eat, 421 the right sort of exer-\\ncise for, 422; a good tonic for; what might\\nbe drunk for, 423; feminine beauty not com-\\npatible with tendency to; the inherited kind\\nof, 417 nervous dyspepsia a frequent accom-\\npaniment of, 419.\\nExercise, nothing can take the place of daily,\\n327; with dumb-bells; for neck, 335; breath-\\ning for; fresh air for; for stooped and anae-\\nmic girls, 332-, health brought by, 359; with-\\nout apparatus, 340; must be taken in well\\nventilated room, 343; salient points concern-\\ning, 344; to be performed at home in one s\\nbedroom, 345; necessity of persistent, 353.\\nEyebrows, beauty requirements of the; treat-\\nment for scanty; toilet of the, 527: how the\\nMoorish women darken their; propriety of\\nclipping the, 526; a woman s, when they", "height": "4360", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0537.jp2"}, "536": {"fulltext": "536\\nGENERAL INDEX\\nindicate sentimentality, 416; what they indi-\\ncate, 416 how to darken the; electrolysis for\\nremoving superfluous hairs of the, 205; toilet\\nof the; when hair falls out of the; formula\\nfor a grower for; characteristics of the, 204;\\nthe Greek; heavy thick; drooping; character-\\nistics of the, 203; when to darken; contrast\\nbetween eyelashes and, 65; a bleach for, 98.\\nEyelashes, practice of clipping the, 199; that\\nwere white and are now a pretty brown, 39.\\nEyelids, granulated, formula for 199\\nEyes, treatment for irritated lotion for in-\\nflamed, 525; rosemary lotion for inflamed,\\n526 healthy and well-formed, 198 wash for\\ninflamed; formula for weak; crossed and\\nsquinting easily curable, 199; irritated by\\ncold, wash for; inflammation of the; formulas,\\n200; state of a woman s soul expressed by,\\n197; changing color of, impossible; dull\\nmade lustrous; unnatural brilliancy of, 198;\\na telltale of nature, 197; no feature is more\\nself-assertive than large and round; a sign\\nof amiability; protruding, sign of poor mem-\\nory, 414; of the coquette, 415; brightener,\\nformula for, 199.\\nFace, a contented mind is reflected in the, 375;\\ndescription of a woman s weatherbeaten,\\n243; uncleanliness the chief cause of an\\nugly, 142; cause of lines on, 157: story told\\nby lines on, 158 a lotion to use after steam-\\ning, 156; poor results of spasmodic cleaning\\nof; value of friction on, 155; how to free\\nfrom all superficial impurities, 153 amusing\\nexperiences of teaching a class to wash, 151;\\nproper steaming of, 155; grimacing ruins\\nthe expression of, 227.\\nFigure, the so-called new 271\\nFlesh, to make firm and smooth 79\\nFoot, description of a truly beautiful, 301; the\\ntwentieth-century kind of, 299; Magic\\nCures for the, should be avoided, 315; the\\nmartyrdom of improper care of the, 304; age\\nwhen a girl s foot is largest; small, con-\\nsidered a mark of aristocracy, but not intel-\\nlect, 300; mental superiority indicated by a\\nlong hand and, 301; high French heels and\\na distorted, 302; Du Maurier s ideal, 303;\\nthe Cinderella, pnsse de mode; the length of\\na woman s skirt as a guide to the size of her;\\nsmallness of, a test of beauty a generation\\nago, 298; evil of narrow shoes for the, 305;\\nadvice for the curve of the, 304; treatment\\nfor burning feet, 316; remedies for tender,\\n315; improvement in; gear of past decade,\\n310; profuse perspiration of the, and remedy\\nfor, 308 patent leather bad for health of the,\\n307; coldness of, 308; evils of Chinese shoes\\non the American; long era of tyranny of\\nFrench heel, 299; Trilby feet that will not\\nstand test of camera, 300; plain, flat, com-\\nmon sense heel, 302; how to prevent ingrow-\\ning nails, 305; danger of cutting nails to the\\nquick; ingrowing nails can be cured, 316;\\ntreatment of nerves, all of which start from\\nthe, 315.\\nForehead, receding, sign of mental weakness,\\n406.\\nFormalin, is a powerful germicide; application\\nof, 232.\\nFreckles, several remedies for; two classes of,\\n130; not pretty; of red-haired women, 55;\\nheroic remedy for; a simple lotion for; lemon\\njuice for, 519; for obstinate, 518.\\nG\\nGirl, training for the flat-chested, 345; lotion\\nfor, who tans; summer, regimen for beauty,\\n191; English, far-famed complexion and\\nhow it is attained summer, what to do for\\nher red face summer, fresh air not injurious\\nto her, if skin be properly protected, 192.\\nGoitre, electricity as a cure for 83\\nGrandmother, old type of, gone; no longer as-\\nsociated with age; of to-day; fulfillment of\\nsplendid womanhood, 45.\\nGrecian bend and tilters 252\\nGrooming, nothing to do with make-up, 57;\\nopposed to paints and powder, 58; the\\ndowdy s utter disregard of, 50.\\nGums, wash for receding 229\\nGymnastics, Swedish movements explained, 339.\\nH\\nHair, a correct shampoo for the; how to\\ncleanse, and scalp, 103; how to brush, 121;\\na curline formula for, not endorsed by the\\nauthor, but the best known to her artificial\\nmethods of curling, and many so-called curl-\\ning fluids, 115 the kindness of Dame Nature\\nin bestowing of, 113 preparaiion of, before\\nretiring; do not twist; remedy for falling\\nout of, after fever, 105 a remedy for falling,\\nthe Jabarondi tonic for falling, 104; foreign\\nremedies for falling, 106 curled to last three\\nweeks, 116; beautiful red, 55; inability of\\nbleaching the roots of; once bleached yellow,\\nquestion how to keep it so; misery of\\nbleached, 95 to turn bleached blonde to its\\noriginal color, 98; a uniform color when\\nusing artificial preparations in the bleaching\\nof; impracticable to keep, bleached one\\nshade; ammonia should not be used on, 97;\\na harmless bleach for, 96; Turkish method\\nof applying henna leaves to, 100; a once\\nfamous dye for; a dye for, 99; desire to\\nchange black, to silver white recipes given,", "height": "4364", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0538.jp2"}, "537": {"fulltext": "GENERAL INDEX\\n537\\nbut not endorsed; inheritance of prematurely\\ngray; how to brighten and add lustre to\\nmuddy brown, 98; scrupulous cleanliness,\\nventilation, and friction the essential needs\\nof; poor scalp circulation causes falling of;\\neffect of heredity, temperament, and general\\nhealth on; actions of the sebaceous glands\\nand their effect on directions for washing,\\n89; causes of unhealthy; harmful use of so-\\ncalled restorers and tonics massage of the\\nscalp beneficial in stopping the falling out\\nof; effect of derangement of digestive organs\\non; coloring matters of; its mineral ingredi-\\nents, and changes with age, 90; chemical\\ndemonstrations in pigment of, 91; golden-\\nhaired beauties the praised of poets and\\npainters for centuries; bondage of artificially\\nacquired and maintained golden, 92; tea\\ntonic for, 522.\\nHand, Balzac s views concerning the; descrip-\\ntion of the artistic, 278; importance of the\\nearly care of the; habits destructive to\\nbeauty of the; proper way to wash the; treat-\\nment when soap irritates the, 279 lotion for\\nchapped or rough causes of chapped treat-\\nment for badly chapped, 281; a wash for\\nitching of; disturbance of the blood will\\ncause itching of, 282 a remedy for whiten-\\ning; honey and almond paste for whitening;\\nthe formula of our grandmothers for dainty,\\n290; popular lotion for whitening of the;\\nwashes for the, 291; how to keep soft, 292;\\na delicate emollient for tender, 288; a for-\\nmula for rough not difficult to have tender,\\npretty, 289 a formula for excessive moisture\\nof, 294; loose joints and shrinking flesh on,\\n295; a good whitener for; how to clean\\ngrimed, 296 a lotion to be used in the\\nwashing of; care to be used in washing of;\\ndon t wear tight gloves; a lady can be told\\nby the condition of the tips of her fingers;\\naging of, hastened by neglect, 295; they\\nshow the ravages of time, 294 rubber gloves\\nat night, 297; pastes for chapped, 522-3.\\nHappiness of family dependent on woman. 57\\nHay fever, causes and treatment for 207\\nHead, how to hold the 250\\nHeart, trained to sensible but never violent\\nexercise, 259.\\nHelen of Troy s beauty at forty-six 41\\nHeredity, the legacy of scrofula and the laws of\\ntransmission, 146.\\nHerpes, treatment of, by electricity 166\\nHoney paste, an excellent compound for whiten-\\ning the hands, 281.\\nHubbard, The Mother, a penitentiary offense,\\n52.\\nHydrozone, Marchand s treatment by. 207\\nIndigestion, formula for, which causes a red\\nface after eating, 419.\\nInfluenza, causes and treatment for 207\\nInsomnia, chronic, caused by immoderate use of\\ntea and coffee, 326.\\nInstruments, substitute for the cuticle knife;\\nlist of necessary manicure cost of manicure,\\n283.\\nJ\\nJaw, transformation of a protruding, into a\\nsymmetrical feature, 224.\\nJewelry, when not to wear 375\\nK\\nKerosene, as a hair wash 522\\nL\\nLacing, tight, will sometimes j^roduce red nose,\\n207.\\nLane, Catherine, case of, 456-96; general\\ntreatment of, 460; one day s treatment of,\\n466-7; portrait of, at beginning of treatment,\\n472; use of compressed oxygen in treatment\\nof (ills.), 473; letters of thanks from, regard-\\ning success of treatment, 472, 475-6 re-\\nports of jury regarding results of treatment\\nof, 470-1.\\nLehman, Mme., a living proof of the advantages\\nof voice culture, 249.\\nL Enclos, Ninon de, heart affair at eighty, 41.\\nLing, movements explained 339\\nLips, description of the, 221; formula for\\nchapped, 230 biting the, 227.\\nLiquid, bath, recipe for 72\\nLotion, astringent, formula for, 248; simple\\nsummer, formula for, 194.\\nLuxuries, mistaken ideas of 66\\nM\\nMaids, the high-collared, trimmest and crispest,\\n256.\\nMan, when he selects a wife, 406 when badly\\ncheated, 51.\\nManicuring, origin of first performed for King\\nLouis Philippe implements required for the\\nFrench system, 283; how to be your own; the\\nvalue of pumice stone in; taboo liquid\\nbleaches for whitening the nails; do not use\\nsharp instruments for, 292; almond meal\\nnecessary for; use of rose paste in; proper\\nmethod of, 293.\\nMarchesi, Mme., the famous singing teacher;\\nher beautiful throat at seventy, 249.\\nMarks, port wine, and birth 166\\nMassage, a process which originated with\\nGreeks thousands of years ago; a throat\\ncoaxed into a demand for exercise by, 181;\\nto counteract the effects of the stiif collar,\\n256; to remove a droop of the eyelid by, 177;", "height": "4364", "width": "2732", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0539.jp2"}, "538": {"fulltext": "538\\nGENERAL INDEX\\noperation on the temporal muscle; developing\\nof the predominating muscle of the face by;\\na remedy for shrinking glands, emaciating\\nfatty tissues and sunken cheeks; invigorating\\nand rebuilding tissues by; injurious if given\\nimproperly, 178; how to fill out hollow cheeks\\nby, 181; cream or skin food to anoint fingers\\nduring treatment by movements for remov-\\ning lines and wrinkles from the brow; ema-\\nciation causing disfigurement remedied by,\\n177; to relieve a nervous headache, 121;\\nrestoration of sunken lines by; study of an-\\natomy necessary to knowledge of; nonsense\\nof claiming many methods of; only one way,\\n173; home treatment by oneself; the deriva-\\ntion of; study of subject necessary before\\ntreating oneself by, 174; the only treatment\\nfor drooping corners of the mouth, 228.\\nMaternity,the effect of,upon the girlish figure, 36,\\nMedici, Venus de, a perfect type of feminine\\nbeauty, 270.\\nMelancholia, lean women inclined to 421\\nMilk, best artificial, 385; how to sterilize cow s,\\n389; best implements to sterilize cow s, 390.\\nMillennium, when man has nothing more dis-\\ncreditable on his record than a stained eye-\\nbrow, 40.\\nMoles, how to remove 164\\nMonin, authority for the Kisch treatment, 253.\\nMother, the slatternly demoralizing 48\\nINloth patches, our pretended resignation to, 47,\\nMouth, description of a perfect; influences of\\nthe, known and freely admitted, 221; Show\\nme his mouth, 197; a beautiful; the key-\\nstone for beauty building; disease fatal to\\nthe beauty of teeth, 222 cure for a slobber-\\ning bad habit of making, 227 formula for\\nmyrrh and borax wash for the, 230; beware\\nof the rosebud; of truthfulness and justice;\\nthe conceited, has a short upper lip, 406.\\nMuscles, exercise for developing the 248\\nN\\nNsevi, birthmarks, how to remove 166\\nNails, care of the; biting of the, 279; use of a\\nstick of orange wood in caring for the bad\\nmethod of manicuring the, 284; moons on\\nthe, indications of physical strength; press\\nthe skin around the, gently away after wash-\\ning, 293; bad effects of using acids on; Sitts\\nlogical suggestions of treatment of; perni-\\ncious practice of cutting selvage from the,\\n284; vinegar and lemon juice recommended\\nfor the, 287; what the white flecks mean on\\nthe, 293; two formulas for making powder\\nfor the, 294; to remove spots from the, 296\\nhow to obtain the graceful oval form of the;\\ndaily care necessary for the causes of sore\\nand unsightly fingers and cracking of sel-\\nvage about the, 287.\\nNarcotics, the most awful of all the demons\\nthat conspire to destroy a woman, 325.\\nNature provides for the baby, 384; skimpy to\\nsome of us, 39.\\nNeck and throat, relaxed muscles of, painful to\\nmanipulate; relaxed condition of, a sign of\\nage, 181.\\nNeck, movements for reducing double chin, 257;\\neffect of sea bathing on the, 251; its full\\nsplendor after thirty; girlish beauty of a,\\nyouthful, 248; description of a perfect, 249;\\nof a high-bred woman; of woman of lower\\norigin; bands; present fashion ruinous to\\nbeauty of the; result of using metal trim-\\nmings about the, 250.\\nNegrier, Dr., of Tangiers, his discovery in\\ntreatment of nose bleed, 214.\\nNerves, cause of perspiration of the hands, 287.\\nNose, formula for red, 207; description of the\\nperfect crooked can unquestionably be made\\nstraight, 211; shiny and oily, treatment for,\\n210; red, treatment for; formula for itching\\nof the; Augagnem s remedy for; catarrh of\\nthe, treatment for, 209; daily care of the,\\nwill lengthen and straighten the pug, not\\nattractive, and unnecessary, 212; how to\\narrest bleeding from the; the Greek, de-\\nscribed; aquiline, of the conqueror, 413;\\nRoman, a good type; swelling of the; treat-\\nment for the, 414; cruelty denoted by some,\\n413; when the most perfect modeled is a\\ntrial; the red blotchy, or shiny, 206; red,\\nsullenly accepted, 47.\\no\\nObesity, diet for, 426; no woman need suffer\\nfrom, 29; some flesh-reducing methods; kind\\nof exercise recommended for, 426; scientific\\ntreatment of, 425; regulating the diet for;\\nnormal condition of health, 429; causes of;\\nthe age at which one begins to get stout,\\n428; suitable clothing for, 438; rub your\\narms and cheeks each day, 432; bodily exer-\\ncise of great importance, 431; the cure of,\\nnot an empty fad a tendency of stout people\\nto eat and sleep, 433; methods of Dr. Swen-\\ninger, Say, Ebstein, and Saulsbury, 427.\\nOintment, carbolated, formula 217\\nOpium, one of the ingredients of sleeping\\ndraught a form of, 325.\\nOvarian troubles, electric baths often a specific\\nfor, 83.\\nOxygen, for consumption, inhalation of com-\\npressed, 254.\\nP\\nPads, a warning word, no dressmaker of renown\\nwill at present countenance them, 252;\\nresponsible for many diseases; consumption\\nbreeders, 253.", "height": "4364", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0540.jp2"}, "539": {"fulltext": "GENERAL INDEX\\n539\\nPatti, Adelina, a woman who will never be old,\\n42.\\nPerfume, the delicate fragrance of the violet;\\nformula for lavender water, Florida water,\\nand West India bay rum, 446; those ob-\\ntained from animals, Frangipani a composite,\\n445 a formula for extract essence of rose,\\n444; formula for cologne water, 451; a for-\\nmula for making rose sachet powder, violet,\\nand heliotrope; sachet powder made from\\nflowers, 448 lavender water to prevent con-\\ntagious maladies aromatic essences that will\\ndestroy germs danger lurks in flower scents\\nfastidious women and their selection of, 454;\\nthe abuse of, potpourri how to make; vanilla\\nbean basis for heliotrope, 453; formula for\\nfictitious violet water, formula for ex-\\ntract of pink, 452; formula for lavender\\nsmelling salts, 451; formula for making in-\\ncense; formula for sweet-scented pastilles\\nfor burning, 450 sachet powder for scenting,\\npeau d Espagne, of white rose, a dress closet\\nsachet, 447 every flower claimed to be rep-\\nresented in; only half a dozen flowers which\\nreally yield use of, in Roman church oils\\nwhich were called precious in the days of\\nMoses, 441; a method of making your own,\\n443.\\nPersonal, a letter, written from private hospital,\\n323 my very pleasant task to offer sugges-\\ntions, 49.\\nPerspiration, abnormal condition of; a lotion\\nfor the, of the hands, 165.\\nPhysical culture, for reducing flesh, 350; several\\ngood books on handbook of light gymnastics,\\n336; dumb-bell exercise described, 343.\\nPictures in this book all from living subjects,\\n33.\\nPimples, most repulsive of skin ailments, 142; a\\nlotion for, 148.\\nPlainness, no virtue in 46\\nPlayfair, celebrated doctor, discusses infant\\nfeeding, 385.\\nPoitiers, Diane de, a siren at fifty-six 41\\nPomade, a method for making 443\\nR\\nRecamier, Julie, lovely at sixty 41\\nRespiration, how to produce artificial 367\\nRingworm, to cure 518\\nRooms, often unfit for the purpose to which\\nthey are put, 371.\\nRose fever, causes and treatment for 207\\nRunning, grace and health gained by 358\\ns\\nScalp, a tonic for, 520; keeping healthy, 103;\\nhow to prevent baldness of the massage of\\nthe; directions for performing the operation;\\nthe movements, etc., shown by illustrations;\\nnourishment and ventilation necessary for\\nthe imperfect circulation of the, 121.\\nScars, left by wound or ulcer; treatment of, 167;\\nvaccination, 248.\\nScrubbing brushes, my respect for them 49\\nShoes, proper care of, 310 high-heeled French,\\n252; how to get a fit, 315; avoid short, 316.\\nShoulders of perfect loveliness described; square\\nnot pretty nor womanly, 250; no woman can\\nhave any style with stoop; how to cure round,\\n346.\\nSilver, nitrate of, in treatment for removal of\\nsmallpox scars, 168.\\nSirens, waist, measures of historic 271\\nSitts, his method of manicuring proper, 283;\\nthe original manicure anecdotes concerning\\nMme., descendant of, 282.\\nSkin, formula for removing yellow stains from,\\n257.\\nSkin, to soften the face, 513; blotchy, 514; en-\\nlarged pores, 518; neglect of soap and water\\ncreates blackheads in the, 66; tendency to\\ndry; soap paste, formula for; when drawn;\\ncream and lotion for, 193; when coarse and\\ninclined to be rough; formula for lotion, 245-\\nlotion for slight irritation of .the, 247; starch\\nused in some laundries will affect the; change\\nof texture in the, 256 a lecture by the author\\non the, 144; hideous cases of diseases of the,\\nand the cause effect of American climate on\\nthe; constant process in change in the, 143;\\nvalue of pure soap on the; value of proper\\ntreatment by men of the, 140; small percent-\\nage of healthy, 142; yellow spots on the, and\\nremedy for, 136; food to nourish the cuticle,\\n349 moth patches on the, and remedy for,\\n136 pigmentary stains of the, 132 formula\\nof a celebrated French beauty for the clear-\\ning of the; effect of diet on the, 128; out-\\nbreak of Spring pimples on the; the removal\\nof blemishes from the, 127 twenty million\\ndollars annually expended for the improve-\\nment of the only forty per cent, free from\\nblemishes of the, 125 a nourishing food for\\nthe; remarkable functions of the, 174; effect\\nof nitrate of silver on the dangerous experi-\\nments of amateurs on the, 169; derogatory\\neffect of soap on, 154; a formula for a bad,\\n149; loaded with solid matters, 66; a good\\nlotion for, 508; for relieving irritation of the,\\n510; formula for relaxed; formula for shiny;\\nlotion for an oily, 512; a dry and scaly, 513.\\nSleep, how to; time which should be given to;\\nwoman s looks affected by want of, 371; pro-\\nper position for, 373 every working woman\\nowes herself a room apart for, 377.\\nSmallpox, marks of, how to remove 168", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0541.jp2"}, "540": {"fulltext": "540\\nGENERAL INDEX\\nSoap, formula for rosebud, 518; list and usage\\nof medicated, 528; compositions of a pure,\\n75; must be pure, 66; proper cost of pure, 69.\\nSores, cold; formula for ointment for 230\\nSpinach, a spring medicine and beautifier 196\\nStrawberry, paste, to refresh the complexion;\\nformula for; -water, in high repute as a cos-\\nmetic; formula for, 195; -vinegar, a delicious\\nand stimulating lotion, formula for, 196;\\n-cream, formula for; delicious basis for cos-\\nmetics, 194; toilet vinegar of, recipe, 79.\\nSugar, most effective of all f atteners 420\\nSunburn, formula for, 135; how to prevent and\\nhow to cure; spring winds and sun resulting\\nin, 133 good cream from cucumbers recipe\\nfor, 191.\\nSuperfluous hair, disfigurement from; the\\nmoustache, 107; causes of, still a mystery,\\n108; one of the best-known formulas for the\\nremoval of. 111; the old-fashioned tweezer\\nmethod of removing, 112.\\nSwedish, exercises must be begun moderately,\\n353; system of gymnastics; description of,\\n339.\\nSwimming, all girls should learn the art of, 360\\nhow to learn without a master, 361 instruc-\\ntions in, 362.\\nSwimming, floating the first step in the art of,\\n361.\\nSylphs that are really known about 270\\nT\\nTan, a formula for 135\\nTeeth, hardening of the structure of, under\\nthe enamel, 232; missing ones fatal to a\\nwoman s looks, 237; description of trans-\\nplantation of, 244; description of the im-\\nplantation of, 238; description of replanta-\\ntion of, 242; formula for powder for, 377; an\\nexcellent powder, formula for, 226; to be\\nminus a front, was a brand of degradation,\\n229 artificial, which really do defy detection,\\n222; far too precious to tamper with;\\nstraightening of, description of one child s\\ntorture; much depends on the care of baby s,\\n225 crowded first show evidence, 231 cor-\\nrecting irregularities of; caution as to ex-\\ntraction of, 232; filling of, without display\\nof gold, 234; requisites for perfect artificial;\\nnatural effects produced by artificial; mis-\\nshapen; how they can be corrected; stained\\nwith iron, how to bring back to natural\\ncolor, 235; correction of the, in adults; how\\na crowded condition of, may be overcome,\\n233; artificial, require an adept, 236; a tell-\\ntale of a woman s age, 237; folly of extract-\\ning sound, 241; meaning of uneven; the girl\\nwith the happy-go-lucky; irregular, indicate\\npoorly-balanced nature, 41 when they indi-\\ncate uncertain temper; long and narrow,\\nindicate ill health; when they show incon-\\nstancy, 409; a violet dentifrice for, 378.\\nTemperance, without it a woman s beauty will\\nnever last beyond the early thirties, 40.\\nTheories, I do not advance theories, but\\ndemonstrate facts in what I say, 29.\\nThroat, how to maintain the firmness and beauty\\nof the; how to develop thin and scrawny,\\n249; beauty-destroying creases in the fair,\\n255; formula for discolored, 251; exercises\\nfor, 357; circles around the, 250.\\nTime, its impress on the face and form; the\\nhygienic method of defying, 48.\\nToilet remedies (Appendix C witch-hazel\\ncream, 499; aromatic vinegar, 500; for mos-\\nquito stings; for ivy poison; orange-flower\\nlotion, 500; French milk of roses; cucumber\\ncream; for blackheads, 501; lotion for re-\\nmoving freckles; cure for parasites; cure for\\nconfluent acne; a remedy for boils; skin\\nfood, 502 marshmallow lotions for distended\\nveins; to remove moth patches; to whiten\\nthe hands; a remedy for baldness, 503; po-\\nmade for moist skin; soap julep for shampoo;\\nfruit vinegar for the toilet Oriental method\\nfor darkening the eyelids; simple tincture\\nof benzoin, 504 aromatic vinegar, imitation\\nlily of the valley, jelly of roses, 505; home-\\nmade bay rum, honey of violets, spirits of\\ncamphor, Florida water, cologne water, 506\\nstrawberry vinegar, orange-flower water,\\nEsprit de rose, chapped lips, delicate face-\\npowder, 507.\\nToothache, a cure for the 230\\nTransformation of plain women into daughters\\nof the gods, 65.\\nu\\nUgliness in girl or woman 52\\nUntidiness, nothing so fatal to a girl s chances,\\n55.\\nV\\nVeins, distended; treatment of the; other forms\\nof treatment; electricity safest, 166; red, on\\nthe nose; treatment for, 212.\\nVenus, the bracelet of 255\\nVertigo, what to do when attacked in the water\\nby, 366.\\nVinegar milk, when to use, formula for. 194\\nw\\nWaist, revival of the wasp, 271; squeezing\\nperiod of the the cultivated, of the Venus\\nde Medici, 269 slender, is pretty square, is\\ndeforming, 272.\\nWales, The Prince of, and his manicure 282\\nWalk, exercise for attainment of a graceful, 353.\\nWindburn, remedy for, 134; another formula\\nfor, 135.\\nWisdom, to be as lovely as one can 56", "height": "4364", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0542.jp2"}, "541": {"fulltext": "SPECIAL INDEX OF RECIPES AND REMEDIES\\n541\\nWives, mistaken when they allow themselves to\\nbecome dowdy, 51 who are careless are de-\\nmoralizing, 48.\\nWoman, every, can make herself a picture;\\nnecessity at every age for scrupulous care\\nand cleanliness, 52 her face reflects her life,\\ninteresting case cited, 321; warned against\\nthe use of the glass cup, 235; measurements\\nof the perfect, 258; the fat, is repellent, 417;\\nlet us not abuse the freedom of the new, 244;\\ndescription of a new, 243; her chances ruined\\nby decayed teeth, 224; nervous, hysterical,\\nof to-day, 271; who laces herself into the\\nshape of an hour-glass; tightly laced who\\nimagines herself sylphlike, 270; as old as\\nshe looks, 41 no necessity for her growing\\nold, 42; patience taken to convince her; ac-\\ncountable to herself, 46; happiest when\\ncharming, 48; the dowdy should never marry,\\n50; grave mistake of neglecting her looks;\\ndanger of being penny-wise, 51 the drudge\\nand dowd a degenerate, 52; description of a\\nwell-groomed, 57; a beautiful grandmother;\\ndanger of losing her husband s love, 60; an\\nawakening at five and forty; old idea of mid-\\ndle age, 59; can get back youth she has lost,\\n64; who by design makes herself conspicuous,\\n96; elocution or singing recommended for\\nnarrow-chested, 423; who are slaves to the\\nperoxide bottle, 92; of sixty-five to-day as\\ncompared to the woman of forty a genera-\\ntion ago, 108; pays middle-age, to be well\\ngroomed, 58; over fifty may recover the ap-\\npearance of youth; a statement intended for\\nall under thirty, 45; types of, who defy her,\\n42; beautiful, have made history; the beauti-\\nful, most powerful, 46; may call a halt on\\ntime; can undo ravages of past, 49; happier\\nand better if they keep their good looks;\\nyoung and beautiful at fifty, 45; schedule\\nof her good and bad points, 262; German\\nwriter s requirements for the perfect, 261;\\nthe emancipation of, 299; of business; the\\ntoilet of, 376; beauty and health for; appro-\\npriate dress of the business, 374 night toilet\\nof the business, 376.\\nWrinkles, methods of removing, 237; a lotion\\nfor preventing, 432; no woman need have,\\n29 made by laughing not a cause for distress,\\n177; a technical definition of, 157; massage\\nafter Swedish system only reliable method\\nof removing, 170 linen bands for the treat-\\nment of, 163; a pomade and lotion for the\\nremoval of, 163-4 age at which one should\\nexpect; character reading by, 161; a formula\\nfor; when they may be properly considered\\npremature a so-called new French cure for,\\n162.\\nSPECIAL INDEX OF RECIPES AND REMEDIES\\nAcne confluent, cure for, 502; muUuscum,\\ntreatment for, 141\\nAlmond meal for the hands 280\\nAlmond paste for the hands 290\\nAlum eyewash 200\\nAmandine for the hands 280\\nAntiseptic tooth wash 223\\nAromatic bath for nervous women 83\\nAromatic vinegar 500-5\\nArms, The, lotions for whitening 245-6\\nAurora lotion 164\\nBabies, diet for, when brought up by hand. 386\\nBad breath, pastilles for 224\\nBand treatment for wrinkles 162-3\\nBaldness, simple remedies for 524-5\\nBald spots, remedies for 503, 520\\nBath, the aromatic, 209; for nervous women, 83;\\naromatic vinegar for, 500; gelatine, 84; liquid,\\n72; of beauty; of the aristocracy, 84; per-\\nfume for; toilet water for, 76.\\nBay rum, how to make at home 506\\nBeauty cream for the skin 194\\nBenzoin, simple tincture of 504\\nBirthmarks, treatment for 166\\nBlackheads, formulas for treatment, 511; new\\nremedies for, 139, 501; obstinate, treatment\\nfor, 139.\\nBoils, applications to scatter 502\\nBran and almond meal bags 71\\nBrandy eye wash 200\\nBreasts, The, treatment to reduce 253\\nBurns and scalds, treatment of 524\\nBunions, treatment for 319\\nBust, The, formula to make firm 254\\nCamphor, spirits of 506\\nCarbolated ointment for the ear 217\\nCastor-oil hair tonic 105\\nChapped lips, cure for 507\\nChilblains, glycerine jelly for, 288; treatment\\nfor, 319.", "height": "4356", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0543.jp2"}, "542": {"fulltext": "542\\nSPECIAL INDEX OF RECIPES AND REMEDIES\\nCold sores, ointment for 230\\nCologne water, 451; common 506\\nComplexion, The, lotion for 509, 511\\nCorns, prescriptions for. 319\\nCreme de pistache 510\\nCucumber cream 191-2, 501\\nCucumbers, use of, as a complexion beautifier,\\n514.\\nCurliue, formula for 115\\nCurling fluid, permanent 118\\nDandruff, lotion for, 101; preventive of, 103;\\nshampoo for, 103.\\nDelcroix s poudre subtile 247\\nDentifrice (Eau Botot) 229\\nDepilatories 110-2\\nDuval s earache cure 219\\nEarache, Duval s cure for, 219; lotions for. 218\\nEar, The, carbolated ointment for, 217; to soften\\ncerumen in, 219.\\nEau Botot, dentifrice 229\\nEczema, Broco formula for, 149; camphorated\\nsoap for, 150; chronic, mixture for, 149;\\nlotions for, 148; of the eyelids, lotion for,\\n149; of the scalp, remedy for, 104; pomade\\nfor, 148.\\nEsprit de Rose 507\\nEyelids, eczema of, 149; to darken the 504\\nEye brightener 199\\nEyebrows, ointment for 204\\nEye salve 200\\nEyes and eyebrows, formulas for treatment of,\\n525-7.\\nEyewash, 199; from tea leaves, 199; of alum;\\nof brandy; of witch hazel; of zinc, 200.\\nExtract of pink 452\\nFace bleach, formula for 136\\nFace powder, 439; delicate 507\\nFace, The, liquid whitener for, 438; liquid\\nrouge for, 440; steaming, lotion after, 156.\\nFalling hair, Lassar s treatment for, 106;\\nMoniji s remedy for, 106; tonic for, 104.\\nFeet, The, powder for profuse perspiration of\\n319.\\nFever blisters, ointment for 230\\nFlorida water 446, 506\\nFossati cream for pimples 127\\nFreckles, antiphelic remedy for removing, 502;\\ncream for, 131; hydrozone and glycozone\\ntreatment for, 133 lotion for, 131 obstinate,\\ntreatment for, 518; obstinate, formula for\\nremoving; ointment for, 132; remedy for;\\nsimple lotion for; use of lemon juice in\\neradicating, 519.\\nFrench milk of roses 499\\nFruit vinegar 504\\nGelatine bath 84\\nGlycerine jelly for chilblains 288\\nHair, dry, lotion for, 521; dry, treatment for,\\n520; dye, 99; falling, remedy for, 104-5;\\nfalling, tonic for, 519; oily, tonic for, 521;\\ntea tonic for, 522; tonics for, 521; wash,\\nkerosene, 522.\\nHands, chapped, pastes for, 522-4; almond\\nmeal for, 280; almond paste for, 290; bran\\nand oatmeal water for, 294; cocoa cream\\ncerate for, 291; emollient for, 288; honey\\npaste for, 281; lotion for (Vigier), 281; lotion\\nfor whitening, 290; paste for, 280, 288;\\nremedy for profuse perspiration of, 287;\\nskin-feeding ointment for, 289 formula for\\nwhitening, 503; wash for itching, 282.\\nHeliotrope, sachet powder 452\\nHenna leaves for the hair 99-100\\nHoney paste for the hands, 281; for the skin,\\n193, 251.\\nHungary water for the bath 76\\nIncense, formula for 450\\nInfants, general rules for feeding 385\\nInsects, bites of, remedies for 525\\nIvy, poisoning from, to cure 500\\nJabarondi tonic for falling hair 104\\nJelly of roses 505\\nKisch treatment to reduce the breasts 253\\nLavender smelling salts, 451; toilet water. 446\\nLily of the Valley, imitation 505\\nLip salve 230\\nLiver spots, lotion for 517\\nMarshmallow lotion for distended veins 501\\nMilk vinegar 194\\nMoles, how to remove 164\\nMosquito stings, cure for 500\\nMoth patches, application for, 136; to remove,\\n503.\\nMouthwash, of myrrh and borax 230\\nNail powders 294\\nNeck, The, to remove collar marks from 257\\nNinon de L Enclos, beautifier 509-10\\nNose, bleeding from, to stop, 213; oily, treat-\\nment for, 210; red, treatment for, 206-7;\\nshiny, treatment for, 210.\\nOintment for freckles 132\\nOrange-flower lotion, 500 water 507\\nm\\n^333", "height": "4364", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0544.jp2"}, "543": {"fulltext": "SPECIAL INDEX OF RECIPES AND REMEDIES\\n543\\nPalms, lotion for moist 294\\nParasites, cure for, 502; remedy for 102\\nPastilles for burning, formula for 450\\nPeroxide of hydrogen treatment 96-8\\nPimples, Fossati cream for 127\\nPommade Grecque 163\\nPores enlarged, treatment for 518\\nRed nose, syrups for, 209; treatment for. 206-7\\nRingworm, cure for 518\\nRose, smelling salts, 415; sachet powder, 448;\\nextract essence of, 444.\\nRoses, milk of, 509; jelly of 505\\nRouge, formula for 439\\nSachet powder, rose, 448; violet, 449; heliotrope,\\n452.\\nSalivation, formula for too abundant 227\\nSalve for inflamed eyes 200\\nScald head, treatment of 404\\nScalp, eczema of, 104; method of cleaning, 103;\\ntonic for, 520.\\nScars, treatment for removal 167\\nShampoo, recipe for, 522 soap julep for 504\\nSkin, The, astringent lotion for, 248; astringent\\npomade for, 504; blotchy, wash for, 514;\\ndry and scaly, wash for, 134 dry and scaly,\\nlotion for, 513 eruptions, remedies for, 525\\nhealing lotions for, 135; honey paste for,\\n251 lotion for irritated, 247; lotion to soften,\\n513; oily, formulas for treatment of, 512-3;\\npowder to relieve irritation of, 510; relaxed,\\nformula for treatment of; shiny, treat-\\nment of, 512; to remove yellow spots on, 136;\\nfood, 102, 502; food for, without lanolin, 512;\\nlotion, 508.\\nSmallpox marks, treatment of 511\\nSmelling salts, rose, 451 lavender 451\\nSoaps, medicated, list of, 528-9; rosebud.. 516\\nSpermaceti, emulsion of 508\\nStrawberry cream 194-5\\nStrawberry paste, 195; vinegar, 196, 507; water,\\n195.\\nSulphur and molasses 503\\nSunburn, cucumber cream for 191-2\\nTan, lotion for 191\\nTea eyewash 199\\nToilet lotion, 508; vinegar of strawberries, 79;\\nwater to make flesh smooth, 79.\\nToothache cure 230\\nTooth powders, 266-7, 377 wash, antiseptic for\\noifensive breath, 223; washes for reducing\\ngums, 229.\\nVeins, distended, lotion for 501\\nVenus cream for chapped face 134\\nVigier s remedy for parasites 102\\nViolet dentifrice, 378; water, fictitious, 452;\\nhoney of, 506; sachet powder, 449.\\nWarts, treatment for 164\\nWest India bay rum 446\\nWitch hazel eyewash, 200; cream 499\\nWrinkles, lotion for preventing, 432 lotion for\\nremoving, 516-7; new cures for, 162, 514;\\npremature, lotion for, 517; recipe for ob-\\nliterating, 511.\\nZinc eyewash.\\n200", "height": "4352", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0545.jp2"}, "544": {"fulltext": "1/\\nV", "height": "4360", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0546.jp2"}, "545": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4336", "width": "2768", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0547.jp2"}, "546": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS\\n029 827 851", "height": "4464", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "harriethubbarda00ayer_0548.jp2"}}