{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2864", "width": "1861", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "Class _^_\\nBook\\nGopyrightN\u00c2\u00b0._\\nCflEiailGJIT DKMSIE", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "I", "height": "2663", "width": "1671", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "THE CANAL AT MONNIKENDAM", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "Odd Bits of Travel\\nN^ witK\\nBrush and Camera\\nby\\nCHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.\\nAuthor of Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan\\nand The British Isles Through an\\nOpera Glass, Etc., Etc.\\nProfusely Illustrated by the Author\\nPhiladelphia\\nGEORGE W. JACOBS CO.\\n103 and 105 South Fifteenth Street", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "Library oi Con* i-crSJS;\\ni\\nNOV 22 1900\\nSECOND COPY\\nOcKviirod to\\nORDER 01VtSlQ^\\nCopyright, 1900, by\\nGeorge W. Jacobs Cq", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "TO MY WIFE", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "Preface.\\nN almost every walk of life, even among artists\\nand photographers, we find those who are\\nenthusiasts, and who work with such ardor\\nand perseverance as to overcome all diffi-\\nculties; while there are others who seem to desire\\nthe hard and rough places smoothed down, and the\\nobstacles removed from their pathways. In writing\\nthis volume, it has been my purpose to enlist the at-\\ntention of both of these classes, and to bring before\\nthe ardent worker as well as the ease-loving, but no\\nless interested, follower of art, places and scenes\\nthat afford unusual attractions for the brush and\\ncamera.\\nIt might truthfully be said that in one s city may\\nbe found innumerable subjects of interest to both\\nthe amateur and professional artist; but change of\\nfood, scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both\\nmind and body, and it is ofttimes wise to pass to\\nnew scenes and broader fields of observation.\\nThe places described herein are not linked together\\nby proximity of location and follow no regular line", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "4 Preface\\nof travel; but are selected from various lands and\\nfrom among v/idely differing peoples, for the sole\\npurpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable\\nand photographic subjects. I have endeavored to\\nselect nooks and corners where the artist and pho-\\ntographer will have suitable accommodations, and\\nwhere the country with its fresh, pure air, and\\nwholesome food may build up the health, while at\\nthe same time an opportunity is afforded for filling\\nthe portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and\\ncharacteristic figure studies. It has also been my\\naim to tell of countries and places comparatively\\neasy of access, and where those of limited means\\nmay find satisfactory accommodations.\\nAt times 1 digress in my pictorial descriptions and\\noffer some Bits of personal experience that have be-\\nfallen me upon my journeys, which I trust may\\nprove of interest and perhaps be of service to others\\ntravelling through the same places. It is with these\\npurposes in view that the following pages have\\nbeen written, and my hope is that they may serve\\nto guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the\\nattractive spots and fascinating views which I have\\nattempted to describe in these Odd Bits of Travel.\\nPhiladelphia, ipoo. C. M. T., Jr.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS\\nPAGE\\nScenes of the Present and Relics of the Past\\nPassing Vessels The Ocean Sudden Changes Taking Pho-\\ntographs The Landing-Stage at Liverpool New Brigh-\\nton In the Country Liverpool by Night Salvationists\\nOld Taverns Chester An English Home Relics\\nThe Cathedral The River Dee Leamington The River\\nLearn Warwick Castle An Old Mill Through Kenil-\\nworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh The King s Arms\\nNature s Pictures 15\\nLights and Shadows of London Life\\nThe Shadow Side The Slums The City by Night Vice and\\nMisery Chinese Johnson s Opium Den The Bunco\\nMan An English Guard The Grand Old Man\\nCaution to Tourists Great Cities by Night The Seven\\nDials\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Derby Day\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Tally-Ho\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Old Robin Hood\\nInn Epsom Hill The Races Exciting Scenes Side\\nShows The Close of the Day 57\\nScenes in the Gay Capital\\nDover to Calais Paris The Gay Capital by Night Boule-\\nvards Life in the Streets Champs Elysees Place de\\nla Concorde Arc d Etoile Place Vendome Louvre\\nOpera House Palais Royal Church of the Invalides\\nVersailles Notre Dame Jardin Mabille The Madeleine\\nThe Pantheon The Banks of the Seine French\\nFuneral Ceremonies La Morgue Pere Lachaise\\n5", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "6 Contents\\nPAGE\\nAntwerp and the City of Windmills\\nFrom Paris to Antwerp Along the Route Thrifty Farmers\\nAntwerp Dogs in Harness The River Old Churches\\nChimes An Inappreciative Listener Steen Museum\\nInstruments of Torture Lace Industry Living Ex-\\npenses Hospitality The City of Windmills Watery\\nHighways\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A City of Canals The Maas River The\\nHouses on the Canals Travel by Boat Novel Scenes\\nCostly Headgear Dutch Costumes Powerful Draught\\nHorses No Bonbons Chocolate Candy In the Market-\\nplace The Belle of the Market Photographs Wooden\\nShoes Drawbridges Blowing the Horn Ancient Relics\\nThe Sword of Columbus loi\\nA City of Many Islands\\nAmsterdam The People of Holland Amstel River Merry\\nExcursionists Interesting Institutions Origin of the\\nCity Source of Prosperity A Cousin to Venice Ninety\\nIslands\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Beams and Gables Block and Tackle Old\\nSalesmen Street Markets Haarlem Railway Travel\\nat Home and Abroad Ancient Buildings Historic As-\\nsociations In the Canal Groote Kerk The Great\\nOrgan Picturesque Subjects Zandvoort Eau de Co-\\nlogne The Beach Dutch Sail Boats Seamen Hooded\\nChairs Peddlers Music in Holland and Germany\\nGypsies We Meet an Artist Hospitality A Banquet 127\\nExcursions to Broek and the Island of Marken\\nA Charming Journey Fellow-Passengers National Costumes\\nThe Children A Lovely Landscape Holstein Cattle\\nWindmills\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Irrigation Farmers A Typical Dutch\\nVillage\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Washing-Day\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Red, White and Blue-\\nSuppose a Bull Should Appear A Brilliant Picture\\nDrawing the Canal Boat Honesty and Cleanliness\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "Contents 7\\nPAGE\\nThrifty and Industrious People Farming and Cheese-\\nmaking As Evening Falls Scenes for an Artist Dead\\nCities of Holland Monnikendam Behind the Age City\\nLamps Houses and People The Island of Marken An\\nIsolated Wonderland First Impressions Rare Holidays\\nThe Family Doctor Absence of the Men The Fishing\\nHealthy and Industrious Population The Women of\\nMarken Pretty Girls They Will not be Taken A Valu-\\nable Experience Photographs 149\\nThe Ancient Town of Monnikendam\\nMarken Homes Beds in the Wall Family Heirlooms An\\nAncient Clock Precious Treasures Quaint Customs\\nBetrothed Couples The Hotel Its Interior\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A Lack of\\nPatrons Costumes of a By-gone Age Farewell to Mar-\\nken Remote Districts Monnikendam Ancient Houses\\nHotel de Posthoorn The Postman of the Past A\\nDifficult Stairway We Stroll about the Town Our Ret-\\ninue In Front of the Hotel Such Curious Children\\nSupper We Visit the Shops Pantomime A Novel Ex-\\nperience They Cannot Understand No Candles We\\nAttract a Crowd The Clothing Store A Marken Suit\\nToo High Bargaining A Stranger to the Rescue 177\\nOld Customs and Quaint Pictures\\nSegars and Tobacco Row Boats Gooden Morgen The\\nZuyder Zee By Candle Light Total Darkness The\\nTown by Night Women and Girls Shoes and Stockings\\nThe Shuffling Man Streets and Sidewalks The Town\\nCrier The Daily News A Message to the People\\nDraught Dogs Milkmaids The Barber Shop Drug\\nStores Horretje A Street Auction Selling Curios\\nThey Leave their Shoes at the Door An Old Grist Mill\\nThe Holland Draught Girl 205", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "B Contents\\nPAGE\\nA Dutch Cheesemaking District\\nA Cheesemaking Country Edam Cheese A Picturesque Inn\\nAn Interesting Interior A Thrifty Farmer At Sun-\\nrise\u00e2\u0080\u0094In the Cow Stable\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Pretty Maid\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Stall and\\nParlor The Cheese Room The Process of Making\\nCheese I Have Listened and Listened A Trip to\\nVolendam A Fine Country Road A Charming Day\\nMuzzled Dogs\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Only Street\u00e2\u0080\u0094 A Multitude of Chil-\\ndren Gay Decorations A United People As a Hen\\nand Her Brood Their Wealth is Their Health In Sun-\\nday Dress Stalwart Men and Sturdy Women A Higher\\nType I Have Enough Fishermen The Anchorage\\nA Volendam Suit 233\\nVolendam Sights, and the Oldest Town on the Rhine\\nChurch is Out The Promenade Every Man is a Volume\\nAn Old Suit His Sunday Clothes Let Him Have\\nIt An Obedient Son The Silver Buttons The Last\\nStraw An Uncommon Action The Hotel An Artist s\\nResort -An Unfinished Painting Good-bye The An-\\ncient City of Cologne The Cathedral Within the\\nDom A Wonderful Collection Foundation of the\\nTown History Vicissitudes Public Gardens Eau de\\nCologne The Palace of Bruhl 255\\nAlong the Banks of the Rhine\\nBonn The Birthplace of Beethoven The Museum Monu-\\nment A Famous Restaurant College Students Beer\\nMugs Special Tables Affairs of Honor Konigswinter\\nMagnificent Views Drachenfels The Castle The\\nDombruch Siegfried and the Dragon A Desecrated\\nRuin The Splendor of the Mountains Many Visitors\\nView from the Summit The Students Chorus German", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "Contents 9\\nPAGE\\nLife A German Breakfast The Camera Old Castles\\nand Lofty Mountains Legends of the Rhine The Wa-\\nters of the Rhine Vineyards 283\\nFrom Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main\\nVast Vineyards Bingen The Hotel The Down Quilt A\\nGerman Maid Taverns The Mouse Tower Rudesheim\\nNiederwald The Rheingau The National Monument\\nThe Castle of Niederburg Wine Vaults The River\\nStreet Musicians A Misunderstanding Frankfort-on-\\nthe-Main The Crossing of the Ford A Free City Monu-\\nment of Goethe History A Convocation of Bishops\\nThe City Monument of Gutenberg The House in which\\nRothschild was Born Luther 313\\nA Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort\\nWe Start for Berlin Mountain and Valley Harvesters\\nVillages A Great City Unter den Linden Kroll\\nTheatre and Garden The City Streets The Branden-\\nburg Gate Potsdam The Old Palace Sans Souci\\nOstend A Fashionable Watering-Place The Prome-\\nnade The Kursaal On the Beach Bathing Machines\\nStudies for an Artist The Race-Course Sunday\\nThe Winning Horse Fickle Dame Fortune The\\nEnglish Channel A Bureau of Information Queens-\\ntown An Irish Lass The Last Stop The End of the\\nJourney 333", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "List of Illustrations.\\nCanal at Monnikendam {Frontispiece)\\nWe feel the heart throbs of old Neptune\\nShe proves to be a Barkentine under full sail\\nThe sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro\\nAmongst these are two typical products of the British Isles\\nThis is a fine field for the student of human nature\\nWayside Inn, New Brighton\\nTypical English houses with their massive thatched roofs\\nSuburban residence\\nWhite Hall Horse Guards Barracks\\nA short run of an hour\\nThe chalky cliffs of Dover\\nThe largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Nether-\\nlands\\nThe place is intersected everywhere by canals\\nIn many cases the balconies of residences overhang the\\nwater\\nThe belle of the market\\nThe Amstel River\\nWicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian\\nThe flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle\\nMost of the houses have a canal at the back\\nThe blue stream finds its outlet in the river\\nAll persuasions accomplislv naught\\nOne old woman is fascinated with the camera\\nWe walk along the narrow streets\\nSheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a home\\nlike scene ^82\\nHotel de Posthoorn 187\\nDe Hooflstraat, Monnikendam 193\\n11\\n17\\n22\\n26\\n30\\n35\\n39\\n43\\n48 v\\n65V\\n74 V\\n79\\n106\\n112 i/\\n123\\n132\\n141 v\\n152^;;\\nI56V\\ni6iv^\\n165/\\n170\\n176^\\nv/", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "12 List of Illustrations\\nThere is a young man whose walk is all his own 200\\nThe streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean 204\\nThe whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque\\nhouses 208\\nA street auction 213 v^\\nAt the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill 217 v\\nA beautifully shaded walk just outside the town 221 v\\nLand and water 228\\nA good road for the bicycle 232\\nThis strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the\\ntown 241 V\\nThe houses are roofed with red tiles 245 v\\nThe delicate lace caps frame smiling faces 254\\nAs the congregation draws nearer we halt before the fore-\\nmost group 258\\nEvery man is a volume if you know how to read him 263\\nGoeden dag. Tot weerziens 267\\nPalace of Bruhl 276\\nLovely walks, and bowery avenues 282\\nNot far off stands the statue of the artist 287\\nThe great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock, 293\\nHow noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable\\nfortresses 302\\nEvery turn of the river presents a different view 306\\nNow we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque\\nhouses 311\\nApproaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the moun-\\ntain side 315\\nThousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this\\npromenade 338 v\\nThere are many odd and fantastic sights here 342\\nOne s portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects 346^,\\nMany typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel 350 v\\nSeveral small boats are floating at our side 355/1\\nBeyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can reach 359 v", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present\\nand Relics of the Past.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past*\\nPassing Vessels The Ocean Sudden Changes Taking Photo-\\ngraphs The Landing Stage at Liverpool New Brighton\\nIn the Country Liverpool by Night Salvationists Old\\nTaverns Chester An English Home Relics The Cathe-\\ndral The River Dee Leamington The River Leam War-\\nwick Castle An Old Mill Through Kenilworth, Coventry\\nand Stoneleigh The King s Arms Nature s Pictures.\\nE sight a steamer on our leeward side. A\\npassing vessel is a great excitement on\\nan ocean voyage. From the time when\\nshe first appears, a tiny speck on the\\ndistant horizon, every one is on deck watching her\\nas she slowly climbs into full view, then draws\\nnearer and nearer to our floating palace. How\\ncompanionable she seems in the vast waste around\\nus. We wonder to which line she belongs; what\\nis her name; her speed, and whither she is bound:\\nand now that she is within hailing distance, we\\nawait eagerly the result of the usual interchange of\\nquestions and answers by means of small flags and\\na certain code of signals, well understood through-\\nout the nautical world. The following are some of\\nthe questions asked: To what line do you be-\\n15", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "i6 Odd Bits of Travel\\nlong? What is your port Have you seen\\nany icebergs? Met any wrecks? Are you\\na tramp and so on, until both sides are satisfied,\\nthen away she speeds on her course, while the\\npassengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one\\nanother through their glasses until they are lost in\\nthe distance. The excitement is over, and we all\\nreturn to our former occupations, or stand looking\\nidly out to sea until once more there is a cry: A\\nsail! A sail! and we begin to hope that she too\\nis coming our way. Straining our eyes through the\\npowerful field-glasses, we perceive that she is com-\\ning toward us, and will probably cross our line.\\nLarger and larger she appears as she steadily ad-\\nvances, until she attracts the attention of every one\\non deck. She is now quite close to us, and proves\\nto be a Barkentine under full sail. We shout a\\ngreeting to the crew, and wave our handkerchiefs\\nas she passes, and the sailors smile in return and\\ntake off their caps.\\nThe ocean air is delightful and invigorating, the\\nsky a perfect azure, and the translucent waves with\\ntheir foamy edges stretch away in long beautiful\\ncurves. We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune,\\nas the waters plash softly over the steamer s sides,\\nand we speed steadily forward, with the rush and", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 19\\nswish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild\\nsweet melody all its own. To fall asleep on deck\\namid these charming conditions is delightful indeed.\\nBut how quickly the scene changes. Suddenly a\\nshrill whistle from the Quartermaster summons all\\nhands to the deck. Orders are rapidly given in\\nquick sharp tones: Aloft. Take sail in. Aye,\\naye, sir, is the swift response, in a twinkling the\\nsure-footed sailors are up among the yards, perched\\nin seemingly impossible places, reefing the flapping\\nsails in preparation for the coming storm. Dark\\nclouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below,\\nand heaving billows surround us, uniting with a\\nfurious wind that seems bent on the destruction of\\nour noble ship. The sailors in the rigging are sway-\\ning to and fro, and the panic-stricken passengers in\\nthe cabins are telling each other with pale faces that\\nbelie their words that they are not afraid, for there\\nis no danger; yet they listen anxiously for every\\nsound from above, and will not allow their dear\\nones to move beyond reach of their hands. There\\nis no music now in the rushing of the waves or the\\nflapping of the sails. Old Neptune in his angry\\nmoods is not a desirable companion. But nothing\\nlasts forever, and from storm and night and black\\ndespair the flower of hope arises, for there comes a", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "20 Odd Bits of Travel\\nlull, followed by a furious blinding onslaught, and\\nthen the spirit of the hurricane calls his followers\\nand flies up, away, somewhere beyond our ken:\\nthe captain s face relaxes from its tense expression,\\nand he looks proudly around his good ship which\\nhas come out victor in the struggle with the\\nelements. One by one, the passengers appear on\\ndeck, the purple clouds, after a final frown of dis-\\napproval at things in general, break into smiles, life\\non shipboard resumes its everyday attitude, and all\\ngoes merry as a marriage bell. Life is full of\\ncontrasts. This is a picture for which neither\\nbrush nor camera is ready. He who would paint it\\nmust draw it from its recess in his memory, or from\\nsome sheltered nook on shore, and be cool and calm\\nenough to follow his favorite occupation in spite of\\nthe consciousness that life and death are struggling\\nfor mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make\\nhim famous if he can but truly portray it upon his\\ncanvas.\\nBut there are many tableaux and picturesque\\nsituations here, very tempting to the traveller who\\ncarries with him his sketch book or camera, and I\\nentertain my companions as well as myself by\\nphotographing many a little group both comical and\\ninteresting in the world around us. I invite our", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 23\\nfriends to the lower deck, where I wish to take\\npictures of some of the steerage passengers.\\nAmongst these are two typical products of the\\nBritish Isles one a robust Irishman of shillalah\\nfame, and the other a bonny boy from Scotland. I\\nmake known to them my desire to have their photo-\\ngraphs, whereupon the quick witted Irishman,\\nwithout doubt knowing the quality of his face,\\nwhich is one of the ugliest I have ever seen, begins\\nat once to bargain with me for the privilege of\\ntransferring it to my camera. It is true I could have\\nstolen a march on him by a snap shot, and he been\\nall unconscious of the act, but wishing to keep up\\nthe comedy I asked at what price he values his face.\\nHe replies that if I will take up a collection from the\\npassengers around us, he will accept that as full\\npay. My friends of the cabin enter into the spirit\\nof the play, and quite a goodly sum finds its way\\ninto the horny hand of the Hibernian athlete, who\\nnow, with a broad smile of satisfaction, intimates\\nthat he is ready to be taken.\\nThese pictures too join the gallery of our yester-\\ndays. Swift has truly said: It is the talent of\\nhuman nature to run from one extreme to another.\\nThe long voyage is over, and all hearts rejoice in the\\nsight of land, and now we are upon the landing", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "24 Odd Bits of Travel\\nstage at Liverpool, amidst the throng of excited\\npassengers, ail moving hither and thither in search\\nof baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the con-\\nfusion of trunks, porters, policemen, drays and\\nubiquitous small boys. This is a fine field for the\\nstudent of human nature. Here are groups of inex-\\nperienced travellers looking anxiously about them,\\nwondering how it is possible to extricate their be-\\nlongings from the indistinguishable mass before\\nthem, and laboring under the dread that when found,\\na fierce and merciless custom-house official will\\nseize upon trunks and boxes, and deaf to all pro-\\ntestations, dump the contents, from a shoe to a\\nhat, upon the floor, to the everlasting confusion\\nof the owners and the amusement of the specta-\\ntors. The cool indifference of those who have\\ncrossed the ocean many times is in marked con-\\ntrast to these panic-stricken, and really pitiable\\ncreatures.\\nThen there is the happy-go-lucky youth, who\\nfinds all this tumult a great joke, and who wanders\\ncarelessly about, with the serene confidence that\\nthings will turn out all right which they gener-\\nally do. Here is the fashionable mother with her\\npretty daughters who evince a charming delight in\\neverything that happens the fussy mama who is", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 27\\nsure that her baggage has not come ashore, or that\\nthe officers of the custom-house are in league\\nagainst her; children separated from parents or\\nnurses, shrieking wildly in their terror, while others,\\nmore venturesome and curious, are in every one s\\nway. Porters elbow their way through the crowd,\\ncabmen shout in stentorian tones, policemen watch\\nthe masses, and now and then in sharp curt tones\\ncall a delinquent to order. A placid looking old\\ngentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor\\nstands in the midst of a picturesque party of young\\npeople, evidently his grandchildren. They all look\\nso happy that it seems contagious, for the troubled\\ncountenances of their neighbors break into sympa-\\nthetic smiles as they glance at this joyous family\\ngroup. Every shade of human expression may be\\nobserved in this motley throng, and he who has\\neyes to see will find many a charming tableau, many\\na pathetic scene or diverting situation that would\\nenrich a sketch book, or prove a valuable addition\\nto the collection made by the ready camera. The\\nvarious changes of expression are worth studying,\\nfor where luxuriant joy and pleasure in excess\\nappear at one moment, the next may behold an\\nangry frown, and a struggle as if for life amid the\\nsurging tide of humanity.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "28 Odd Bits of Travel\\nNow one s the better then the other best\\nBoth tugging to be victor, breast to breast\\nYet neither conqueror, or is conquered.\\nTaking a small steamer which plies between\\nLiverpool and New Brighton, one may for a few\\ncents, after a half hour s ride, land at an attractive\\nand much frequented watering-place upon the bank\\nof the Mersey River, opposite Liverpool. This re-\\nsort is the pleasure-ground of the middle classes,\\nand is well worth a visit. Upon a holiday many\\nthousands flock to its shores which remind one of\\nVanity Fair, where numerous phases and conditions\\nof life are represented. Here is the indefatigable\\nand annoying travelling photographer with his\\nFour for a shilling. Take you in two minutes.\\nLadies and gentlemen, step in and see the finest\\npictures to be found in this country. Bridal groups\\na specialty.\\nHere are games of all kinds, pony and donkey\\nriding, and all the shows to be found at the\\npopular seashore resort. The merry-go-round\\nis in full swing, with a crowd of spectators,\\namong them many wistful children, watching the\\nprancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses. The\\nmusic here is quite inspiring, and the numerous\\nsmall boys and maidens who lack the necessary", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 31\\npennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze at\\ntheir more fortunate companions with woe-begone\\ncountenances. Strains less animated, but more\\nmelodious attract us to a fine dancing hall, where\\nthe older lads and lasses are tripping about in a\\nlively manner. The light dresses, colored ribbons\\nand happy faces make a pretty picture. Along the\\nbeach are beautiful views, worthy of a master hand,\\nwhile out in the country the typical English houses\\nwith their massive thatched roofs and lovely sur-\\nroundings of trees, lawns and gardens fair, cannot\\nfail to captivate the artist s eyes.\\nA stroll through the streets and byways of Liver-\\npool at night is a sad but interesting experience.\\nAlas for the misery and crime and want that exist\\nin all the great cities! Girls, young and pretty, but\\nno longer innocent, may be seen in scores in every\\nlocality: children with poverty and depravity writ-\\nten on their faces boldly address one at the street\\ncorners: men and women, with sharp, pinched fea-\\ntures and misery and despair in their voices, be-\\nseech one for alms, or with fierce cunning lie in\\nwait for the unwary. Sick at heart and with inex-\\npressible pity we wend our way from one point to\\nanother. Vice, crime, want, suffering meet our\\neyes on every side: and the old hopeless cry: Why", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "32 Odd Bits of Travel\\nmust these things be rises up again in our souls.\\nThrough the whole night long upon the curb stones,\\nat the corners, lounging against the windows and\\ndoors of closed houses or shops, this lower\\nstratum of life appears with its atmosphere of\\ndusky gloom. When the daylight dawns upon the\\ncity, it seems to shrivel up and shrink into the\\nmouths of the yawning black cellars and foul alleys\\nwhose very breath is a deadly poison. There are\\ndozens of taverns scattered about the city, and\\nwithin these rooms or stalls are partitioned off\\nwhere sin may be screened from public view, for\\neven those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so\\nlow that they dare not carry on their nefarious\\noperations in the face of their everyday compan-\\nions. These dens are countenanced by the authori-\\nties, and one may find within them criminals of\\nevery grade who prey upon each other for their\\nsustenance: but in the long run, it is the proprietor\\nwho comes out with a substantial bank account.\\nBeggars, peddlers, musicians, singers of both\\nsexes, and itinerant vendors of all kinds jostle each\\nother in these haunts of sin, and great caution\\nshould be exercised in visiting them, for in certain\\nlocalities, crimes of the most brutal character are of\\ndaily, I might say hourly occurrence. I would sug-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 33\\ngest that the tourist should at such times depend\\nfor safety upon the company of a first-cIass detec-\\ntive.\\nLet praise be given where it is due. The Salva-\\ntionists of Europe have by their indefatigable labors\\nreclaimed thousands of these men and women from\\ntheir lives of sin and misery. You will meet these\\nuntiring workers everywhere, exhorting, praying,\\npleading with fallen humanity. These noble bands\\nof Christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome\\nhovels, and, wrestling with filth and disease, in\\nmany cases come off victorious. They have been\\nknown to wash the clothing and cleanse the houses of\\nfever-stricken families, and supply wholesome food\\nand care for helpless infants, defied at every step\\nby a drunken son or father. They fear nothing,\\nknowing that their cause is God s cause, and that in\\nthe end Almighty Goodness shall win an eternal\\nconquest.\\nIt is customary throughout England to close all\\nthe saloons on Sundays until noon, after which\\ntime they open their doors, and remain open till\\nmidnight as upon week-days.\\nOf the many cities whose haunts I have visited at\\nnight, I think that without exception, unless it be\\nLondon, Liverpool leads in depravity and vice.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "34 Odd Bits of Travel\\nThe country from Liverpool to Chester abounds\\nin attractive scenery, local in character and possess-\\ning the additional charm of novelty for the Ameri-\\ncan tourist. Along the route are scattered a num-\\nber of old taverns, such as The Horn, The\\nGreen Tree, and similar names. Dismounting\\nfrom bicycle or trap, the traveller who enters one\\nof these ancient landmarks will find everything in\\napple pie order the floor clean and shining Uke\\na bright new dollar just launched from the mint.\\nHe will sit at a table within one of the three stalls\\non either side of the little room, and the landlord s\\nwife will bring him a bumper of good auld Al,\\nthe effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial,\\nif it corresponds with my experience.\\nChester, oldest of English cities, is full of quaint\\nresidences and other ancient buildings. The old\\nwall which surrounds the town is the only one in\\nGreat Britain which has been preserved entire. It\\nforms a continuous ring, although in some places\\nthe earth has climbed so far above its base, that it\\nappears no higher than a terrace. Its rugged outer\\nparapet is still complete, and the wide flagging\\nforms a delightful promenade, with a fine view of\\nthe surrounding country. The earliest date which\\nwe find upon the wall is a. d. 6i, when it was", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 37\\nerected by the Romans. Twelve years later, Marius,\\nking of the Britons, extended the wall. The Britons\\nwere defeated under it in 607, and after a lapse of\\nthree centuries, it was rebuilt by the daughter of\\nAlfred the Great. It has a long and eventful history,\\nand the old Cathedral whose edge it skirts, is one of\\nthe largest and most ancient in England. The\\nsculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn\\nsmooth by the hand of time. The stained glass\\nwindows are marvels of art, the groined arches,\\ndreamy cloisters, and antique carving upon seats\\nand pews fill one with admiration mingled with\\nawe. There are many fine mosaics here, and speci-\\nmens of wood from the Holy Land. Costly gems\\nadorn the choir; here too is a Bible whose cover is\\ninlaid with preciou-s stones. The massive Gothic\\npillars are still in a perfect state of preservation, as\\nwell as the numerous ancient monuments and relics\\nof the past. The vast size of the Cathedral is a per-\\npetual source of wonder to the stranger, who,\\nwandering among its curious historic mementos,\\ngazing upon its storied nave, transepts and choir,\\nand upon the Bible scenes pictured in these glorious\\nwindows, feels that he has been transported by\\nsome magician s hand into an age long buried in the\\npast. The Cathedral is said to have been founded in", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "38 Odd Bits of Travel\\nthe year 200. Its height within, from floor to the\\nlofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows is\\nfrom sixty to one hundred feet. The Church of St.\\nJohn the Baptist rivals the Cathedral in antiquity,\\nbut it is now a picturesque ruin covered with moss\\nand ivy.\\nChester itself contains many antiquities that are to\\nbe found nowhere else in the world. The houses,\\ndating back to 1 500, or even earlier, are of every de-\\ngree of shade and color, with little windows with\\ndiamond-shaped panes, and gable ends facing the\\nstreets whose sidewalks are on a level with the sec-\\nond stories. Everything here seems to belong to\\nthe past, excepting the fine, modern station, ten\\nhundred and fifty feet long, with its projecting iron\\nroofed wings for the protection of vehicles waiting\\nfor passengers from the trains. This station is one\\nof the longest in England. The famous Chester\\nRows are public passages running through the sec-\\nond stories of the houses facing the four principal\\nstreets. These arcades are reached by flights of\\nsteps at the corners of the streets, and contain some\\nvery attractive shops. The old timber-built houses\\nof Chester with their curious inscriptions are all\\npreserved in their original ancient style, and no-\\nwhere in England can the artist or photographer find", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 4^\\na more interesting spot, or one richer in ancient\\nand mediseval relics than this little town.\\nThe quaint old taverns carry one back, back, to\\nthe life of the past. Drop in at the Bear Billet\\nInn some day, or The Falcon Inn, and yield yourself\\nup to the charming mediaeval atmosphere of the\\nplace. Seat yourself at the little table beside the\\nwindow, and look out upon the same scene which\\nyour English ancestors looked upon more than two\\nhundred years ago. The landlord s wife will bring\\nyou a foaming tankard of ale. It is the same tankard\\nfrom which your forefathers quenched their thirst,\\nand if you are of a contented, philosophical temper-\\nament, you will experience the same comfort and\\nenjoyment as they, in this truly English beverage.\\nIf you are not fired with enthusiasm by this old-time\\npicture, wend your way to the banks of the River\\nDee, where you may paint the greens in every va-\\nriety of light and shade, with one of the picturesque\\nold farmhouses which abound here in the fore-\\nground, and some blooded cattle resting quietly\\nbeneath the wide-spreading branches of the trees.\\nOr here is the single wide arch of Grosvenor Bridge\\ncrossing the river, with a span of two hundred feet.\\nThis is one of the largest stone arches in Europe.\\nOr here is a bit of the old wall skirting the water,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "42 Odd Bits of Travel\\nand the charming picture of the Old Bridge, which\\ndates back to the thirteenth century and here too\\nare the vast mills of the Dee, associated with the\\nhistory and traditions of eight hundred years. With\\nits surrounding country, and the succession of lovely\\ngardens bordering the Dee, surely Chester is one of\\nthe choice spots in England for the lover of the\\nquaint and beautiful. Within the pretty residences\\nof the suburbs may be found all the comforts and\\nrecreations of a happy prosperous family life, united\\nwith genuine English hospitality, and a cordial wel-\\ncome for the stranger. The owner of one of these\\ncharming homes orders up his cart, and insists upon\\ntaking us for a drive through this delightful locality,\\nand for miles and miles our hearts and eyes are cap-\\ntivated by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits of\\nscenery. We wind up with a cup of good hot tea,\\nthinly cut buttered bread, and other dainties.\\nA decided change from the ancient and mediaeval\\nassociations of Chester is the prosperous city of\\nLeamington, a watering-place situated on the Learn\\nRiver, a tributary of the Avon. The natural min-\\neral springs discovered here in 1797 have proved the\\nsource of great benefit to this town, as the springs\\nare highly recommended by physicians, and many\\ninvalids resort thither. But as health is not our ob-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs. [See /a^^e ji.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 45\\nject in coming, we do not follow the popular custom,\\nbut proceeding to the banks of the River Leam, en-\\ngage one of the many small boats which may be\\nhired, and drift leisurely down the stream with the\\ncurrent, revelling in the wealth of beauty which\\nsurrounds us. Hundreds of lovely nooks disclose\\nthemselves to our eager eyes typical English scenes\\nand as we float along life assumes an ideal aspect\\nunder the witchery of this picturesque river. Here\\nare old farmhouses in the foreground, with their\\nrichly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds\\nof acres, and here are velvet lawns, with their dainty\\nhigh-bred air, surrounding noble homes, stately and\\nsilent. Now a group of merry children dance about\\nthe water side, and a great Newfoundland dog\\ndashes wildly into the stream after a ball or stick,\\nswimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize.\\nHow the children scream and run away as he rushes\\njoyously up to them, shaking the spray over their\\ndresses and into their faces. Oh fair River Leam!\\nthese lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon\\nyour waters love you, and we too, strangers from\\na foreign shore, here yield our tribute of loving\\npraise for the happy hours we owe to you, linger-\\ning often, reluctant to leave some especially charm-\\ning spot where the branches of the trees overhang", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "46 Odd Bits of Travel\\nthe stream, and touch our faces with soft caressing\\nfingers.\\nNature was here so lavish of her store,\\nThat she bestowed until she had no more.\\nThis scene too fades as we board one of the many\\ntram-cars, and in a few moments are carried to the\\nvery gateway of the world-renowned Warwick\\nCastle, which occupies a commanding position,\\noverlooking the Avon. This ancient pile is artistic-\\nally poised, and presents grand effects of color,\\nlight and shade. Upon the payment of a shilling\\nfor each person, the massive iron doors which for\\ncenturies have guarded this stately and historic\\nstronghold, open as if by magic, and a passageway\\ncut through the solid rock leads us to an open space,\\nwhere we have a fine view of the magnificent round\\ntowers and embattled walls. A visit of two hours\\ngives us opportunity to climb to the top of the an-\\ncient towers which for ages have loomed up as\\nmonuments of power and defiance in the face of the\\nenemy. We are impressed with the vast size of\\nthe castle. The view from the towers and the\\nwindows is beautiful and romantic. In the spacious\\ncourtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft\\nvelvety turf, and the hand of time has colored\\ntowers and battlements a rich brown hue that", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 49\\nblends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and\\nout wherever it can find a place.\\nThe gardens slope down to the Avon, from\\nwhose banks there is a picturesque view of the\\nriver front of the castle, and here as well as in\\nthe park we see some fine old cedars of Leb-\\nanon, brought from the East by the Warwick\\nCrusaders. In the main castle we enter a num-\\nber of the apartments which are furnished in a style\\nof regal splendor. The Great Entrance Hall, sixty\\ntwo feet long and forty wide, is rich in dark old\\noak wainscoting, and curious ancient armor; and\\nshields and coronets of the earls of many generations,\\nas well as the Bear and Ragged Staff, of Robert\\nDudley s crest are carved upon its Gothic ceiling.\\nThe Gilt Drawing-room contains a rare collection of\\nthe masterpieces of great artists. This room is so\\ncalled from the richly gilded panels which cover its\\nwalls and ceiling. In the Cedar Drawing-room are\\nwonderful antique vases, furniture and other curios,\\nwhich would well repay a much longer inspection\\nthan we can give them. But all the rooms in this\\nmagnificent old feudal castle are filled with the fin-\\nest specimens of works of ancient art in every line.\\nThe paintings alone fill us with despair, for they\\nline the walls in close succession, and the artists", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "50 Odd Bits of Travel\\nnames are Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke,\\nSir Peter Lely, Guido, Andrea del Sarto, and many\\nothers of like celebrity. What an opportunity for\\nthose who have the time to linger in this atmos-\\nphere of lofty genius\\nMany beautiful old shade trees surround the\\ncastle, and the restful silence inspires one with the\\ndesire to be alone and yield himself up to the spirit\\nof the place, hallowed by such wealth of associa-\\ntions and the presence of immortal art.\\nA short distance from the castle, and outside the\\nWarwick enclosure, stands an old mill upon the\\nbank of the Avon. This ancient and picturesque\\nstructure was originally built for the purpose of\\ngrinding wheat, but the all-observing eye of the\\nartist quickly discovered in it a mission of a higher\\norder, and for years it has posed as the central figure\\nin the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush\\nof the painter or the camera of the photographer.\\nTaking a drag and driving through Kenilworth,\\nCoventry and Stoneleigh, will give one delightful\\nviews of some of the most beautiful portions of\\nEngland. The roads are macadamized, and in good\\ncondition. This is a fine farming country, and here\\nwe see the typical English farmhouses, built of\\nbrick and stone, surrounded by well-cultivated fields.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 5^\\nstretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape.\\nThe fields are separated by green hedges, and the\\nwhole scene is one that can hardly be surpassed\\nthroughout Merrie England,\\nFrom these lovely quiet homes, we pass through\\nroads bordered with wild flowers to the ruins of\\none of the most magnificent castles in Great Britain.\\nIt is hardly necessary to say that Kenilworth is in-\\nseparably associated with Sir Walter Scott, and his\\ngraphic descriptions of the scenes and events that\\nhave taken place here in the days of its glory. This\\ncastle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial\\nruins in England, dates back to about 1120 a. d. It\\ncovered an area of seven acres, but is now a mass\\nof ivy-covered ruins, from which one can form but\\na faint idea of its appearance in the height of its\\nprosperity. Yet the hand of nature has invested it\\nwith another kind of beauty, and in place of the\\npomp and majesty of power, the brilliant pageants\\nof the court of Queen Elizabeth, we behold the\\nclinging robe of ivy, the daylight illuminating the\\ngallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax\\ntorches which flashed their lights upon the royal cav-\\nalcade, and a little country road where once a stately\\navenue led to the tower, and listened to the court\\nsecrets, lovers vows and merry badinage uttered", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "52 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwithin its shades. The castle has passed through\\nmany changes, and experienced stormy days as\\nwell as those of prosperity and luxury, but the pen\\nof Scott has immortalized it on the summit of its\\nglory, and though the ages may cast their blight\\nupon its visible form, it will ever live in the soul of\\nthe artist, the poet, the lover of beauty, as a scene\\nof splendor, of sorrowful tragedy, of magnificent\\ndesign.\\nBut a few steps beyond the Kenil worth grounds\\nis an old English inn The King s Arms. It is so\\npicturesque and romantic-looking, that I feel like re-\\nchristening it: The Entire Royal Family.\\nLet us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-\\ntime atmosphere and many curious attractions.\\nHere the artist is in his element, for on every side\\nare quaint corners, cozy nooks, and relics for which\\nthe lover of the antique would give a fortune;\\nwhile outside the windows the beautiful English\\nlandscape beams upon one with inviting smiles.\\nThe landlady, with her cheerful bustling air and\\nbroad accent, imparts a pleasant thrill of anticipa-\\ntion, which is more than realized upon the appear-\\nance of the savory chops, grown on the neigh-\\nboring hillside, whose rich green pasturage is a\\nguarantee for the flavor and quality of the meat,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "Scenes of the Present 53\\nthe delicious hot cakes, and the unfailing tankard,\\nor if one prefers it, the cup of fragrant tea. And so\\nwe sit and refresh the inner man, while the soul\\nrevels in the world of beauty around us, and picture\\nafter picture passes before the mental vision, con-\\nnecting these scenes with famous historic charac-\\nters, or wonderful events of legendary lore. So\\nlovely are these views, that one could gaze for\\nhours, and never weary of the living jewels\\ndropp d unstained from heaven, for this pictur-\\nesque country possesses a peculiar freshness, as\\nthough free from the touch of care and the hand of\\ntime, like the fair maiden who has received from the\\nfountain of youth the gift of eternal life and beauty.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows\\nof London Life.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life*\\nThe Shadow Side The Slums The City by Night Vice and\\nMisery Chinese Johnson s Opium Den The Bunco\\nMan An English Guard The Grand Old Man Caution\\nto Tourists Great Cities by Night The Seven Dials Derby\\nDay The Tally-Ho Old Robin Hood Inn Epsom Hill\\nThe Races Exciting Scenes Side Shows The Close of the\\nDay.\\nS nature derives much of its charm from the\\nintermingling of light and shade, so in\\nlife there are many scenes of sharp con-\\ntrast, and we often have a deeper appre-\\nciation of its beauties after beholding the reverse\\nside of the picture. Some one has said: In ac-\\ntions of life, who seeth not the filthiness of evil,\\nwanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty of\\nvirtue.\\nWhat better opportunity of studying this phase\\nof life can there be, than in the faces of those whose\\nexistence is passed amid associations of suffering,\\nwant and crime; who not only witness, but exper-\\nience all these in their different shades and degrees.\\nTake with me a walk through the worst portions\\nof the greatest metropolis in the world, and observe\\n57", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "58 Odd Bits of Travel\\na few of the pictures in the localities where human-\\nity is born and nourished in misery, filth and sin.\\nGuarded by three of England s best paid detectives,\\nI follow closely in their footsteps, not daring to\\nspeak lest I rouse in his lair the slumbering lion of\\npassion and revenge. From street to street we\\npass, viewing the wretched temements, and more\\nwretched inmates huddling together over a faint\\nspark of fire, or vainly trying to impart to their\\nlittle ones some of the natural warmth which still\\nexists in their bodies, in spite of hunger, cold and\\nfatigue. The crumbs from the tables of the rich\\nwould be a lavish feast to these poor creatures.\\nClean water is as great a stranger to their stomachs\\nas to their bodies loathsome rags cover their ema-\\nciated forms, and the destroyer drink has left his\\nsignet upon their countenances. A little farther on\\nis the vile dance house into which the inhabitants\\nof this neighborhood crawl for the lowest stage of\\ntheir degradation. A motley throng is assembled\\nhere, and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill\\nlaughter and drunken oaths.\\nI am guarded so carefully that many times I am\\n5s hurried away from a scene more quickly than I\\nwish, the officers fearing that our presence may\\ncreate a disturbance among these reckless charac-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 59\\nters. We enter a low saloon in a cellar dimly\\nlighted by an old oil lamp: the atmosphere is grue-\\nsome, and one of the detectives warns me that the\\nmen who frequent this haunt are desperate fellows\\nwho would not hesitate to stab me for the sake of\\nmy clothing. Old and grizzled habitues line reek-\\ning walls, with depravity written upon every coun-\\ntenance, and I fully realize that my life would not\\nbe worth a moment s purchase here should my at-\\ntendants forsake me.\\nNow we are in a long narrow alley, as black as\\nErebus, which gives one the feeling of being in a\\nsubterranean passage upon some mysterious mis-\\nsion. In a few minutes a light appears ahead a\\ndull glimmering bluish light, like that which is\\nsupposed to hover above graveyards and we\\npause in front of a small frame house of two\\nstories. A knock upon the door brings to the\\nthreshold a little dried up, wizened Chinaman, made\\nfeeble by long dissipation, who in his broken lan-\\nguage makes us welcome. The place is Chinese\\nJohnson s opium den. How can I describe the\\nscene that is before me In this room are many\\nsmall dirty cots filled with unconscious human be-\\nings, willing victims of the pernicious drug a\\nloathsome spectacle and here on a small couch", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "6o Odd Bits of Travel\\nsits the proprietor of tlie establishment. This is\\nhis throne of state, and here he can smoke with\\nimpunity the deadly drug, which has no percepti-\\nble effect upon his depraved body. We are glad to\\nend this experience and banish from our minds the\\nunattractive picture of the Chinaman in his elysian\\nfields.\\nWe are not the only ones who have the privilege\\nof viewing these scenes. Any one who desires and\\npossesses the necessary courage may invade the\\nhaunts and dens of the lower world, and be prof-\\nited by the lessons here learned; but he must exer-\\ncise great caution. The studies are not only for\\nthe brush and camera: they are food for the\\nthoughtful mind which can apply the wisdom thus\\ngained, and seek in these conditions for the solu-\\ntion of knotty problems. One can better appreci-\\nate, by reason of this contrast, the blessings of his\\nown life; of purity, honesty and contentment as\\nopposed to ignorance, poverty and vice.\\nThis evening, fatigued in mind and body by my\\nexperience in the slums of London, I enter the Hol-\\nborn Restaurant, hoping to enjoy a good dinner,\\nand at the same time be entertained by the delight-\\nful music of skilled musicians. I seat myself at a\\ntable on the second floor, and supposing myself", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 6i\\nfree from intrusion, yield myself up to the charming\\nmelody, when a good-looking and well-dressed\\nman approaches, and with many apologies asks if\\nthe seat opposite me is engaged. I assure him that\\nI do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of\\nthe Holborn, and that I can speak only of the chair\\nupon which I am sitting. Upon this he takes the\\nopposite place and gives to the waiter an order for\\nquite an extravagant supply of the dainties enumer-\\nated on the bill of fare. During the time interven-\\ning between the giving of the order and its delivery,\\nno conversation passes between us, but I have an\\nunpleasant consciousness of his presence, and occa-\\nsionally feel his eyes resting upon me. The appear-\\nance of the epicurean repast seems to impart the\\nconfidence he requires, and he addresses me with\\nthe remark that I must pardon him for staring at me\\nso impolitely, but he is sure he has met me before.\\nAm I not an American.? to which I assent. Are\\nyou a New Yorker is the next interrogation from\\nthis experienced catechiser. He can readily per-\\nceive that I am an American by my foreign accent.\\nTo the last question I also respond in the affirma-\\ntive, and may heaven forgive the falsehood. Ah,\\nhe says, do you frequent the races at Sheepshead\\nBay.? Yes, generally, I reply. (I have never", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "62 Odd Bits of Travel\\nseen the place.) It is there, then, that I have met\\nyou. Were you not there last summer Many\\ntimes. (Another breach of truth.) Will you\\nkindly give me your name follows as a matter of\\ncourse. I reach my hand into my pocket and draw\\nout a card upon which is engraved simply my name,\\nand extending it toward him, remark: My name\\nis Charles M. Taylor, Jr., and I am associated with\\nMr. one of the chief detectives at Scotland\\nYard. My present mission is to look up some\\nBunco men from New York who have head-\\nquarters in London. Here is my card. But the\\nstranger does not take the card. He glances hastily\\nat his watch, and rising hurriedly, says: It is nine\\no clock. I did not know it was so late. I must be\\noff, as I have an important engagement.\\nAs he pushes back his chair, I quickly call a\\nwaiter, and tell him to collect the money for this\\ngentleman s order, as I do not wish to be held re-\\nsponsible for it. He pays for the meal which he\\nhas not touched, and in his haste to depart forgets\\nhis manners, for he does not wish me good-night.\\nDid he think I was a tender lamb This hurts\\nmy pride somewhat. I am sorry, however, that I\\nwas obliged to deceive him so.\\nOne evening while discussing matters in general", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 63\\nwith an English friend, born and bred in the city of\\nLondon, we touch upon tiie order and unswerving\\nobedience of the soldiers, policemen and good citi-\\nzens who dwell under the dominion of her gracious\\nMajesty, the Queen, in the great metropolis; and\\nmy friend cites as an example, the guards who\\npatrol nightly the White Hall Horse Guards Bar-\\nracks, as adhering so strictly to their line of march\\nthat they will not turn out of their way one inch for\\nany person or obstacle in their direct course. I ac-\\ncept the wager of a dinner at the Holborn to be\\ngiven by me if I do not succeed in inducing one of\\nthese guards to move out of his line of march.\\nSelecting a dark night for the one in which to make\\ngood my assertion, I approach the barracks, and\\nespy the guard with bayonet at Carry arms,\\nmaking a bee line toward me. I walk in his\\ndirection with head bent low, and come so close\\nthat there would be a collision were it not for the\\nstern and firmly-uttered Halt that comes from\\nhis lips. I halt face to face with this noble specimen\\nof humanity, standing fully six feet one in his boots,\\nand as straight as Jack s bean pole. Sir, I\\nsay, you are in my way, will you please move\\nout? He makes no response. Will you please\\nstep aside and allow me to pass? No response.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "64 Odd Bits of Travel\\nCome, my good fellow, I continue in persuasive\\ntones, I have made a wager that you will move\\nout of line for me, and if you do I will share the bet\\nwith you. No reply. But I see in the immovable\\ncountenance an inflexible determination to do his\\nduty which all the bribes in Christendom will not\\nbe able to change. I feel that death only can pre-\\nvent his obedience to orders. Well, I conclude,\\nyou are a good fellow, and the power you serve,\\nbe it queen, emperor, or president, is to be envied\\nfor having such a faithful subject. I respect your\\nobedience to law and order. Good-night. No\\nresponse. It is needless to say that I pay the forfeit\\nwillingly, and my friend and I enjoy a good dinner\\nat the Holborn.\\nStrolling one morning about London, with nothing\\nbetter to do than to take in odd bits that come\\nin my way, I observe a large crowd of citizens as-\\nsembled opposite the entrance to Parliament, and\\ngoing up to a policeman, I ask what has happened,\\nor is about to happen But the officer looks perfectly\\nblank, and can give me no information whatever. I\\nbethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules\\ngoverning information sought from guards, cab-\\ndrivers, and omnibus whips in the city of London,\\nand straightway putting my hand in my pocket, I", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "White Hall Horse CuiarcU Barracks. {\u00e2\u0096\u00a0^ee page 6j.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 67\\nproduce several pennies which I give him for a mug\\nof Half and Half. A change comes over his\\ncountenance, his vanished senses quickly return,\\nand with a courteous smile he remarks that Glad-\\nstone is expected to appear in Parliament for the\\nfirst time after an illness of some weeks. And this\\nobliging cop not only gives me the desired in-\\nformation, but escorts me to a good position in the\\ncrowd, just in time to behold the Grand Old\\nMan, who, holding his hat in his hand, bows smil-\\ningly in response to the enthusiastic greetings which\\ncome from every side. He walks briskly along, and\\nas he comes close to me, moved by an irresistible\\nimpulse, I step out from the throng, and extend my\\nhand, saying: lam an American, who wishes to\\nshake the hand of the man who has so bravely\\nfought a hard battle. The proud old face looks\\npleasantly into mine, his hand meets mine with a\\ncordial grasp, and replying that he is glad to meet\\nan American, Gladstone passes on to the scene of\\nhis many conflicts and victories.\\nThe tourist who is bent on seeing the various\\nsections of a great city, and especially those localities\\nwhich are best observed by night, should be very\\ncautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty:\\nsuch for example as the old Seven Dials of London,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "68 Odd Bits of Travel\\nas it used to be. I have had many unpleasant and\\nuntold encounters, and been placed in situations,\\nnot only trying, but extremely dangerous, while at-\\ntempting to explore these hidden regions unattended\\nand alone. Experience has taught me that it is best\\nto go well heeled, that is accompanied by the\\nbest informed and most expert detectives, as what\\nthey may charge for their services is cheap in com-\\nparision with a mutilated head or body. One s own\\nready wit and shrewdness are all very well in some\\ncases, but there are times when these fail, and the\\nman at the other end, drunken, brutal, and excited,\\nwill make you wish you had let sleeping dogs lie.\\nIt is well for travellers and others to visit the slums\\nof large cities by night. Here is food for comparison\\nand reflection, and from these may perhaps arise a\\ndifferent feeling from that with which we are ac-\\ncustomed to regard the poor wretches who have\\nlacked the advantages of birth, education and en-\\nvironment.\\nIn company with four detectives, I visited the\\nSeven Dials of London, and the experience of\\nthose nights spent in scenes of horror, vice and\\ndegradation would fill volumes. Picture to yourself\\na small narrow street, with lov/ wooden houses of\\ntwo stories on either side. There are dim glim-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 69\\nmering lights at intervals of about fifty feet. The\\nhour is two o clock in the morning, as one tourist\\nattended b) four officers wends his way through an\\natmosphere filled with dread and horror. We enter\\nsome of the houses which present scenes of inde-\\nscribable squalor and confusion. A perfect bedlam\\nof tongues reigns here. Men and women hurl\\nabusive epithets at each other, from windows and\\ndoors, as well as from one end of the street to the\\nother. The entire neighborhood enters into the\\nquarrel, and the transition from words to blows is\\nsudden and fierce. The street is filled in an instant\\nwith ragged, and almost naked beings, whom one\\ncan hardly call human, and the battle which ensues\\nwith clubs, knives and fists is beyond imagination.\\nCut heads, broken limbs, bruised bodies, bleeding\\ncountenances appear on every side, and it is quite\\nevident that many are scarred for life. The sight is\\nloathsome, yet it makes one s heart ache. Such\\nscenes are of frequent occurrence in the slums of\\nnearly every large city, where drink and depravity\\ncount their victims by thousands. In these vile\\nabodes are the haunts of the thief, the smuggler, the\\nfallen, and the pictures once seen, are indelibly im-\\npressed on the memory, with the long train of re-\\nflections awakened by such sights, and the inevitable", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "70 Odd Bits of Travel\\nquery: Why is not sometliing done to render such\\nscenes impossible in this age of civilization\\nAt last the great Derby Day has arrived, and the\\nwhole atmosphere is filled with the importance of\\nthe occasion. The sprinkling rain does not dampen\\nthe ardor and enthusiasm of the true Englishman,\\nfor I am told that the races have never been post-\\nponed on account of the weather. After breakfast\\nwe stroll to the street corner where stands our\\ntally-ho in readiness for the day s excursion. Hav-\\ning engaged our seats the previous day, we take our\\nplaces and start forth, drawn by four spirited horses\\nunder the guidance of an experienced driver. The\\nwhip is cracked, the horn sends forth its musical\\nsignal, and away we go amid the cheers and ap-\\nplause of numerous spectators. Swiftly we roll\\nover the well paved streets, and the high spirits of\\nthe company, accompanied by the frequent wind-\\ning of the horn, render the ride extremely pleasant.\\nThe race-course is about eighteen miles out of\\nLondon, and our road is through a beautiful portion\\nof the country. Every lane and avenue is thronged\\nwith people, walking, driving, or on bicycles, but\\nall going to the Derby. We stop for refreshment\\nat the old Robin Hood Inn, an ancient hostelry, es-\\ntablished, we are told, in 1409. Here we have a", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 7I\\nbeverage, supposed to be soda water or milk, but\\nwhich is in truth a stronger concoction, to brace us\\nfor the mental and physical strain of this exciting\\nday. All aboard, cries the coachman, and there\\nis a general scramble for places. At last we are all\\nseated, and proceed on our way, changing horses\\nwhen half the distance is covered.\\nWe take the main thoroughfare within three miles\\nof the Epsom grounds, and now a wonderful sight\\nbursts upon us. Thousands of pedestrians of both\\nsexes and every age are flocking toward the race\\ncourse hundreds of carriages, vans, dog carts, tally-\\nhos, vehicles of every description throng the road.\\nEnormous trains are constantly arriving, bearing\\ntheir thousands to the Downs, now covered with a\\nvast moving mass. London empties itself on this\\nall-important day, and proceeds to Epsom by every\\npossible means of locomotion. The grand stand, a\\nhandsome and commodious structure, is quickly\\nfilled to overflowing. There are numerous other\\nstands. The appearance of the Downs, with the\\ncountless booths and the waving multitude which\\ncover it as far as the eye can reach, is a spectacle that\\ncannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic.\\nNo other event in England can concentrate such an\\namount of interest and excitement as is found on", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "72 Odd Bits of Travel\\nthe scene of the Derby. Every one is in high spirits\\nyoung and old, men, women and children all seem\\nmerry and happy, laughing, singing, dancing along\\non this one great day of the year. Behold the party\\non our right. A large wagon contains ten or more\\nmen and women, who are singing and laughing\\nin great glee, and who invite us to join them. Here\\na group of a half dozen men with musical instru-\\nments at their sides are singing to their own accom-\\npaniment. The dust rises in clouds, and we are\\ncovered from head to foot with it as with a garment:\\nwe all wear veils pinned around our heads to pro-\\ntect our eyes.\\nAt last we reach Epsom Hill, and here we\\npay two guineas for the admission of our party\\nand conveyance. We are also entitled to a place\\nanywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-\\ncourse. Our horses are picketed after being taken\\nfrom the wagon, and our two attendants spread be-\\nfore us a most sumptuous repast. Coaches of every\\nkind are so thickly jumbled together that for a vast\\ndistance the hill seems covered with a coat of dark\\npaint.\\nThousands and thousands of men, women and\\nchildren are assembled upon this hillside, while\\ntens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "A short run of an hour. i^See page 8j.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 75\\nrace-course. It is estimated that no less than from\\none hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty\\nthousand persons are massed together at these races.\\nThe race-course is not like those in the United\\nStates, but is a sodded strip extending about half\\na mile in a straight line. The ringing of a bell an-\\nnounces the commencement of the races, and the\\nmass of humanity surges to and fro in great excite-\\nment. Now is the book-maker s time, and he\\npasses hither and thither, shouting his offers to the\\nenthusiastic multitude, who accept or reject his\\npropositions with eagerness or scorn, corresponding\\nwith their knowledge or ignorance of the horses\\nventured. Gambling and betting are at their\\nheight vast sums of money change hands at the\\nconclusion of the races, and many inexperienced\\nas well as reckless ones leave the field at night\\nruined men. Meanwhile the confusion is inde-\\nscribable.\\nBut these sounds drop away, and silence prevails\\nas five slender well-shaped racers appear, ridden by\\njockeys, but when the wild mad race begins in\\nwhich each endeavors to outdo the others, the ex-\\ncitement and tumult know no bounds: shouts,\\ngroans, cheers fill the air, and every eye is strained\\nalong the course: one could readily believe that a", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "76 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwhole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill\\nthe air with their hoarse discordant sounds.\\nAs the winning horse reaches the goal, a placard\\nof large dimensions, on which his number is con-\\nspicuously painted, is raised within full view of the\\nswaying crowd. The shouts and cheers burst forth\\nafresh, and jubilee and pandemonium mingle their\\nextremes in a scene to be imagined only by those\\nwho have experienced it.\\nAs the first excitement cools, bets are paid, and\\naccounts squared. Again the bell rings: another\\nrace, and a repetition of the previous scene, and so\\nit continues for several hours.\\nBut the racing is not the sole attraction, as is\\nevidenced by the crowds surrounding the refresh-\\nment booths and side tents, where for a small fee\\none may see the Fat Woman, the Skeleton Man, or\\nthe Double-Headed Boy; or listen to the colored\\nminstrels who charm the soul with plantation\\nmelodies; or have his fortune told in the gypsy\\ntent by a dark-eyed maid in gorgeous attire, who\\nwill tell of a wonderful future which is sure to\\ncome true. Or you may have your photograph\\ntaken on the spot, and finished while you wait.\\nHere is a phonograph representing a variety enter-\\ntainment, and the little group around it are laughing", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "Lights and Shadows of London Life 77\\nheartily at the jokes of the funny man, the ven-\\ntriloquist, and the story-teller. Here are fine bands\\nof musicians, and dozens of oddities, and curious\\ntricksters: and the Vv hole forms one grand panorama\\nof human life, the counterpart of which is to be seen\\nnowhere else in the world.\\nAt five o clock, the horses are harnessed to our\\ntally-ho, and with smiling but dusty and sunburned\\nfaces we bid farewell to the scene of gayety and\\nstart for home. Every road and byway in the sur-\\nrounding country is swarming with people, and the\\nscale of pleasure, disappointment, grief, hilarity and\\nfatigue is reflected in the countenances of riders and\\npedestrians. Here is a group, overheated, weary,\\ndejected, trudging slowly along the way, inter-\\nchanging scarcely a word with each other: here a\\nmerry party, filled with life, singing, laughing, re-\\ncounting the events of the day, as they wander on,\\narm in arm. Now a little lame boy smiles in our\\nfaces from the tiny cart which his sister pushes\\ncheerily forward, and now a gay belle dashes by in\\na carriage drawn by fast horses, holding the ribbons\\nand whip in correct style, while her companion\\nleans back, indolently enjoying the situation.\\nThe countenances of the men tell various tales, as\\nthe triumphs or failures of the day are expressed in", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "78 Odd Bits of Travel\\ntheir faces. Some few wear a stolid, impassive\\nair, wliiie others talk, talk, talk, as though they\\nhave never had an opportunity till now. As we\\nride along amid the stupendous throngs, many\\nthoughts are aroused, and many a picture is put\\naway in the recesses of memory to be brought forth\\nand pondered over on a future day.\\nWith the shades of night the curtain falls upon a\\nscene of such magnitude that the brain is weary of\\ncontemplating it, and is glad to find temporary for-\\ngetfulness in tired nature s sweet restorer. And\\nso ends the great Derby Day.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "The chalky cliffs of Dover. [S ft /age Sj.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay CapltaL\\nDover to Calais Paris The Gay Capital by Night Boulevards\\nLife in the Streets Champs Elysees Place de la Concorde\\nArc d Etoile Place Vendonie Louvre Opera House\\nPalais Royal Church of the Invalides Versailles Notre\\nDame Jardin Mabille The Madeleine The Pantheon\\nThe Banks of the Seine French Funeral Ceremonies La\\nMorgue Pere Lachaise.\\nE travel from London to Dover by train,\\nthence by steamer to Calais. The chalky\\ncliffs of Dover with their high precipitous\\nsides are a pleasant and restful farewell\\npicture of the shores of old England. A short run\\nof an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different\\nfrom those of the past few weeks that we feel that\\nthe magician s wand has again been exercised and\\nthe Presto, change, has transported us to a region\\nof maliciously disposed genii, who will not under-\\nstand us, or allow us to comprehend their mysterious\\nutterances; and the transformation scene is complete\\nas we enter Paris, the home of the light, the gay,\\nthe fantastic.\\nLet the lover of the bright, the gay, the jovial,\\nvisit the broad boulevards of Paris by night, es-\\n83", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "84 Odd Bits of Travel\\npecially the Avenue des Champs Elysees, which\\nseems to be the favorite promenade of the populace.\\nUpon both sides are groves of trees, briUiantly illu-\\nminated by myriads of colored lights, and here amid\\nthese bowers is to be found every variety of enter-\\ntainment for the people. Games of chance are\\nplayed in the gay booths. Punch and Judy shows\\nattract crowds of children, wonderful feats of horse-\\nmanship are performed, singers in aerial costumes\\ndraw many to the Cafes Chantants, and the lights\\nof innumerable cabs and carriages flit to and fro in\\nevery direction like will-o -the-wisps. Here is fine\\nmilitary music, as well as exhibitions of skillful play-\\ning on almost every known instrument.\\nThe wide boulevards are long, straight and mar-\\nvels of beauty, with their lovely gardens, handsome\\nhouses, and fine shops.\\nThere are strong contrasts in the lives of those\\none sees upon these streets under the gaslight. I\\nthink Dante s three realms are pretty clearly repre-\\nsented along the avenues of Paris, beneath the\\nstarry dome of heaven, and within these gayly dec-\\norated booths and cafes. Here may be seen the\\nhigh and the low, the rich and the poor, the grave\\nand the gay, the innocent and the hardened in\\nguilt, the adventurer and his unsuspecting victim.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 85\\nAnd this heterogeneous throng, this careless pleas-\\nure-loving crowd, may be seen drifting from one\\npoint to another till the cock crows the warning of\\napproaching dawn. The streets of Paris by night\\nafford abundant material for the artist, the photo-\\ngrapher, the poet, author and clergyman; as well\\nas the adventurer. Here indeed, if anywhere, one\\nmay\\nread the human heart,\\nIts strange, mysterious depths explore.\\nWhat tongue could tell, or pen impart\\nThe riches of its hidden lore?\\nThe Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful\\nsquare in Paris. From its centre are magnificent\\nviews of the grand boulevards and many of the\\nhandsome public buildings, and here are the great\\nbronze fountains marking the historic spot upon\\nwhich stood the guillotine during the French Revo-\\nlution. The lovely walks, the sparkling waters,\\nand the statues and monuments, the obelisk, the\\nmerry strollers, and picturesque tableaux seen at\\nevery turn are positively enchanting. Up the broad\\nvista of the Champs Elysees the eye rests upon the\\nwonderful Arc d Etoile, one of the most conspic-\\nuous monuments in Paris. It stands in the Place\\nd Etoile, one of the most fashionable sections of the", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "86 Odd Bits of Travel\\ncity, and is surrounded by elegant residences and\\npleasant gardens. From this point radiate twelve of\\nthe most beautiful avenues in Paris, and from the\\nsummit of the arch one can see for miles down these\\ngrand boulevards. The magnificent arch of triumph,\\ncommenced in 1806 by Napoleon, was not finished\\nuntil 1836. It is a vast structure, rising one hun-\\ndred and fifty feet from the ground. The great\\ncentral arch is ninety feet high and forty-five feet\\nwide, and is crossed by a spacious transverse arch.\\nUpon the outside of the arch are groups of splen-\\ndidly executed statuary, representing scenes of con-\\nquest and allegorical figures. A spiral staircase\\nleads to the platform on top, where one beholds\\nthis superb prospect which well deserves its world-\\nwide celebrity.\\nWe come upon the Place Vendome through the\\nRue de la Paix, and here stands the great historic\\ncolumn, erected by the first Napoleon in commem-\\noration of his victories over the Russians and Aus-\\ntrians. The monument is constructed of twelve\\nhundred pieces of cannon, captured in the cam-\\npaign of 1805. Upon the pedestal and around the\\nshaft which is one hundred and thirty-five feet\\nhigh, are bas-reliefs representing warlike imple-\\nments and the history of the war from the depar-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 87\\nture of the troops from Boulogne to its end on the\\nfamous field of Austerlitz.\\nIn front of the central entrance to the court of\\nthe Tuileries, in the Place du Carrousel, is the Arc\\nde Triomphe du Carrousel, also erected by Napo-\\nleon I,, in 1806, in imitation of the triumphal arch\\nof Severus at Rome. In the garden of the Tuiler-\\nies, with its old-time atmosphere, its statues, foun-\\ntains and pillars, its groves and terraces, its historic\\nruins, its lovely flower-beds, we find a quaint and\\ncharming picture of a past age; yet when these\\ngroves and paths resound with the hum of human\\nvoices, when the many chairs and benches are filled\\nwith joyous human beings, the link between the\\npast and present is established, and we are in one\\nof the favorite resorts of the Parisians of to-day.\\nBetween the Tuileries and the Louvre is Napoleon s\\ntriumphal Arc du Carrousel or rather between the\\ncourtyards of the two famous piles, which now\\nform one continuous structure of magnificent archi-\\ntectural design, whose facade is adorned with Co-\\nrinthian columns, elaborate sculptures and lofty pa-\\nvilions. Groups of statuary, representing the most\\ndistinguished men of France, allegorical figures,\\nfloral designs and other decorations on a vast scale\\nornament these magnificent pavilions, The space", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "gg Odd Bits of Travel\\nenclosed by the old and new Louvres and the\\nTuileries is about sixty acres.\\nSome of the most beautiful of the architectural\\ndesigns of the Louvre were completed by Napo-\\nleon I., to whom it owes much of its restoration,\\nfrom the drawings of Perrault, the famous author\\nof Bluebeard, and the Sleeping Beauty.\\nWe cross a square and quickly find ourselves in\\nthe garden of the Palais Royal, once the Palais Car-\\ndinal, and the home of Richelieu. The ground\\nfloor of the palace is occupied by shops. The garden\\nwhich is enclosed by the four sides of the square,\\nis about a thousand feet long and nearly four hun-\\ndred feet wide. Here is a quadruple row of elms,\\nalso long flower-beds, shrubbery, a fountain and\\nsome statues. A military band plays here in the\\nafternoon, but the garden presents the gayest scene\\nin the evening, when it is brilliantly illuminated,\\nand the chairs under the elms, as well as the long\\nwalks are filled with gay pleasure-seekers.\\nThere is a magnificent opera house near the\\nGrand Hotel, whose vast exterior is ornamented\\nwith beautiful statuary, medallions, gilding and\\nother rich decorations.\\nIn the Church of the Invalides we find the tomb\\nof Napoleon 1., who in his will expressed a desire", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 89\\nthat his ashes might rest on the banks of the Seine,\\nin the midst of the French people whom he had\\nloved so well. The open circular crypt is beneath\\nthe lofty dome, whose light falls upon it through\\ncolored glass, and with a wonderful effect. The\\npavement of the crypt is a mosaic, representing a\\ngreat crown of laurels, within which are inscribed\\nthe names of Napoleon s most important victories;\\nand twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests,\\nsurround the wreath. The sarcophagus rests upon\\nthe mosaic pavement within the crypt, which is\\ntwenty feet in depth. This is an enormous block\\nof red sandstone, weighing more than sixty tons,\\nwhich surmounts another huge block supported by\\na splendid rock of green granite. The scene is\\nsolemn and grandly impressive, the faint bluish\\nlight from above, producing an effect wholly inde-\\nscribable. In the higher of the two cupolas, di-\\nrectly over the crypt, is a painting, with figures\\nwhich appear of life-size even at this great distance,\\nof Christ presenting to St. Louis the sword with\\nwhich he vanquished the enemies of Christianity.\\nHere is Versailles, with its little park of twelve\\nmiles in extent, and its great park of forty, with\\nits beautiful fountains and grottos, its wonderful\\ngroves and flower-beds. Here are velvety lawns", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "go Odd Bits of Travel\\nadorned with fine statuary, green alleys, shrubberies\\nand terraces, in which art and nature are so cun-\\nningly intermingled that they are often mistaken\\nfor each other. The fountains are representations\\nof mythological characters, and the figures are car-\\nried out in their immediate surroundings. Apollo\\nis in his grotto, served by seven graceful nymphs:\\nwhile close by the steeds of the sun-god are being\\nwatered by tritons. Again, the basin of this god\\nappears surrounded by tritons, nymphs and dol-\\nphins, with Neptune and Amphitrite in the centre,\\nreposing in an immense shell.\\nLatona, Apollo and Diana are represented by a\\nfine group: the goddess is imploring Jupiter to pun-\\nish the Lycian peasants who have refused her a\\ndraught of water, while all around her, in swift an-\\nswer to her appeal, are the peasants, some partially\\ntransformed, others wholly changed into huge frogs\\nand tortoises, condemned here to an endless pen-\\nalty of casting jets of water toward the offended\\ndeity.\\nHere is the famous old cathedral of Notre Dame\\nde Paris with which Victor Hugo has made the\\nworld familiar. This grand Gothic structure was\\ncommenced in the twelfth century, and finished in\\nthe fourteenth. We view its exterior from a posi-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 9^\\ntion facing the fine west fagade, with its wonderful\\nrose window between the huge square towers.\\nThe three beautiful portals are ornamented with\\nrich sculptures and imposing statuary. These\\ndoors form a succession of receding arches, dating\\nfrom the early part of the thirteenth century. The\\ncentral portion is a fine representation of the Last\\nJudgment. The interior is vast and impressive with\\nits vaulted arches and long rows of columns. The\\nancient stained glass of Notre Dame is represented\\nby three magnificent rose windows. From the\\nsummit of the tower there is a glorious view of the\\nSeine and its picturesque banks and bridges: indeed\\none of the loveliest views in Paris.\\nAnother famous and beautiful edifice is the Made-\\nleine, or church of St. Mary Magdalene, which\\nstands in an open space not far from the Place de\\nla Concorde. It is in the form of a Grecian temple,\\nsurrounded by Corinthian columns, and the flight of\\ntwenty-eight steps by which one approaches the\\nchurch, extends across its entire breadth. The great\\nbronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the\\nten commandments. Within, the walls and floors\\nare of marble richly ornamented, and the side\\nchapels contain fine statues, and paintings of\\nscenes from the life of Mary Magdalene. The", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "92 Odd Bits of Travel\\nhigh altar is a magnificent marble group represent-\\ning angels bearing Mary Magdalene into Paradise.\\nThis whole interior is indescribably beautiful, and\\nto enter into its details one would require a volume.\\nFrom this sublime spectacle we pass to the Church\\nof St. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of\\nParis, familiarly known as the Pantheon. This\\nalso is a magnificent structure, with three rows of\\nbeautiful Corinthian columns supporting its portico.\\nThe handsome pediment above this portico contains\\na splendid group of statuary in high relief, repre-\\nsenting France in the act of distributing garlands to\\nher famous sons. The central figure is fifteen feet\\nin height. The \u00c2\u00a9difice is in the form of a Greek\\ncross, surmounted by a majestic dome, two hun-\\ndred and eighty feet high.\\nWithin the church the spacious rotunda is en-\\ncircled by Corinthian columns which support a\\nhandsome gallery, and he who ascends to the\\ndome will have an opportunity of observing\\nclosely the wonderful painting, covering a space\\nof thirty-seven hundred square feet, which rep-\\nresents St. Genevieve receiving homage from\\nClovis, the first Christian monarch of France, Char-\\nlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., while the\\nroyal martyrs of the French Revolution are pictured", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 93\\nin the heavenly regions above. In the gloomy\\nvaults below we behold the tombs of a number\\nof eminent men, among them those of Rousseau,\\nVoltaire, and Soufflot, the architect of the Pantheon.\\nIn the middle of the vaults is an astonishing echo.\\nThe roll of a drum here would sound like the thun-\\nder of artillery; a board dropped upon the pave-\\nment is like the report of a cannon, and the rever-\\nberations are repeated over and over again as\\nthough these subterranean spirits are loth to resign\\nthe opportunity of speech so seldom afforded them.\\nThe tourist in Paris rarely fails to spend at least\\none evening in the Jardin Mabille; that is the male\\ntourist, who is curious to behold life in all its\\nphrases, and whom the fame of the garden attracts\\nas the candle draws the moth. This is a pretty\\nspot, with bowery paths, gay flowers, sparkling\\nfountains, arbors and sheltered corners where lovers\\nand others may enjoy tete-a-tetes undisturbed, and\\nrefreshments may be ordered to suit purses of all\\ndimensions. There is a good orchestra on the bril-\\nliantly illuminated stand, and here the soubrette is in\\nthe height of her glory, while the better class of the\\nvisitors are as a rule, only spectators. There is\\nsome pretty gay dancing here, but order is pre-\\nserved. On certain nights fine displays of fire-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "94 Odd Bits of Travel\\nworks attract many spectators. But the great fea-\\nture is the dance, and the proprietors generally em-\\nploy some girls distinguished by peculiar grace,\\nbeauty, or other characteristics who serve as mag-\\nnets to the light and pleasure-loving throngs.\\nBut why attempt to give even a faint idea of the\\ninnumerable attractions of the city whose abundant\\nresources bewilder the tourist whose time is lim-\\nited. It teems with life. It is overflowing with\\nbeauty, passion and love. Wandering along its\\ngay boulevards, whether in the bright sunshine, or\\nbeneath the starry vault of night, with picturesque\\nmansions or gay shops on either side, or amid the\\nbowery paths and bewitching avenues, the gardens,\\nstatues, music and laughter, one feels that he is in\\nan enchanted land, where high and low, rich and\\npoor share alike in the universal beauty and happi-\\nness.\\nThe charming banks of the Seine offer endless\\nattractions. Here are many beautiful bridges, from\\nwhich one may have picturesque views of the\\nlovely gardens and palaces. These bridges are\\nhandsoniely ornamented with statuary, bronzes,\\nand reliefs, and bear interesting inscriptions. Float-\\ning bathing establishments are to be seen along\\nthese banks, and swimming schools for both sexes.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 95\\nHere are also large floats or boats capable of accom-\\nmodating at least fifty women, who wash their\\nclothing in the Seine. It is quite interesting to\\nwatch these robust girls and women, as they pat\\nand slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles\\nprovided for this purpose.\\nWhen a death occurs in a family of the middle\\nclass in Paris, it is customary to drape the whole\\nlower story of the house with black, and place the\\nbody of the deceased in the front room. Holy water\\nis placed at the head, also candles and a crucifix,\\nand any one may enter and view the body, or\\nsprinkle it with holy water, and offer a prayer for\\nthe soul of the departed.\\nThe men who pass a house so distinguished rev-\\nerently uncover their heads: they also take off their\\nhats on the appearance of a funeral, and remain so\\nuntil the procession has passed.\\nFor him who is interested in such sights, the\\nmorgue presents a curious but sad attraction. Here\\nlie on marble slabs, kept cool by a continuous\\nstream of water, the bodies of unknown persons\\nwho have met their death in the river or by acci-\\ndent. Their clothing is suspended above their heads,\\nand any one may enter and view these silent rows.\\nAfter a certain period, if not identified, they are", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "96 Odd Bits of Travel\\nburied at the public expense. I behold many\\npathetic sights here, as broken-hearted relatives find\\ntheir worst fears realized and lost and erring ones\\nare recognized. Sad, sad are the pictures to be\\nseen at the morgue. Here is a fair young girl, of\\nnot more than twenty years, resting peacefully upon\\nher marble bed, her troubles in this world over for-\\never. Her body was found yesterday floating on\\nthe Seine.\\nOne more unfortunate\\nWeary of breath,\\nSadly importunate,\\nGone to her death.\\nTouch her not scornfully\\nThink of her mournfully,\\nGently and humanly\\nNot of the stains of her,\\nAll that remains of her\\nNow is pure womanly.\\nMake no deep scrutiny\\nInto her mutiny\\nRash and undutiful\\nPast all dishonor,\\nDeath has left on her\\nOnly the beautiful.\\nPere Lachaise, once an old Jesuit stronghold, is\\nnow the largest cemetery in Paris. It is said that", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "Scenes in the Gay Capital 97\\nthere are more than eighteen thousand monuments\\nhere. The older part is much crowded, and we\\nfind here famous names connected with every age\\nand profession.\\nHere is a granite pyramid, here one of white\\nmarble, and here the love of a nation commemorates\\nwith tlowers the grave of a man whose resting-\\nplace no lofty monument marks, but who lives\\nforever in the hearts of the French people. Here a\\nmonument whose sides exhibit bas-reliefs of the\\nfable of the fox and stork, and the wolf and lamb,\\nis surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black\\nmarble. This is the tomb of Lafontaine. The little\\nGothic chapel yonder is the tomb of Abelard, whose\\nefifigy lies upon the sarcophagus within, and beside\\nit is that of Heloise. This double monument is very\\nlovely, although the signs of neglect and decay are\\nplainly visible.\\nThe military chiefs of Napoleon s day sleep in this\\ncemetery, and here lie the mortal remains of St.\\nPierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, of the great\\npainter, David, of Pradier, the sculptor, the actress\\nRachel, and hundreds of others with whose names\\nwe are all familiar. The grounds are picturesque\\nwith winding paths, and cypress groves, and\\nwreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the lov-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "98 Odd Bits of Travel\\ning remembrance in which the dead are held by the\\nliving. The elevated position of Pere Lachaise\\ngives one a fine view of the city. The grounds\\nwhen first laid out in 1804, covered upward of\\nforty acres; they now extend over more than two\\nhundred acres, and it is said that 125,000,000 have\\nbeen expended in monuments since this cemetery\\nwas opened.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the\\nCity of Windmills.\\nL.0C0.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills*\\nFrom Paris to Antwerp Along the Route Thrifty Farmers-\\nAntwerp Dogs in Harness The River Old Churches\\nChimes An Inappreciative Listener Steen Museum Instru-\\nments of Torture LaCe Industry Living Expenses Hospi-\\ntality The City of Windmills Watery Highways A City\\nof Canals The Maas River The Houses on the Canals\\nTravel by Boats Novel Scenes Costly Headgear Dutch\\nCostumes Powerful Draught Horses No Bonbons Choco-\\nlate Candy\u00e2\u0080\u0094 In the Market-PIace The Belle of the Market\\nPhotographs Wooden Shoes Drawbridges Blowing the\\nHorn Ancient Relics The Sword of Columbus.\\nHE country between Paris and Antwerp is\\ndelightful, and very different from the\\nlovely landscapes of England. Farms,\\ntowns, villages, all present a novel aspect,\\nand the people speak a language very strange to\\nour ears. The great fields along the road are not\\nfenced in but are only distinguished from one an-\\nother by the difference in the appearance of the\\ncrops. In England, as I have said, there are beauti-\\nful hedges everywhere separating the fields and\\nmeadows.\\nHere are strong men and women working side\\nby side in the fields. Here are buxom country\\n101", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "102 Odd Bits of Travel\\nlasses, rope in hand, one end of which is attached\\nto the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle. These\\nare glowing pictures, and the clean farmhouses,\\nfields and roads are abundant evidences of the in-\\ndustry and thrift of the people.\\nAntwerp may well be termed a city of charms\\nand fascinations. It is the most attractive and in-\\nteresting town in Belgium, and at the same time one\\nof the strongest fortresses in Europe. Our first im-\\npression of this place is of clean orderly streets,\\npaved with the square Belgian blocks which endure\\nso well the wear and tear of constant travel. The\\nhouses and shops are of a quaint, ancient style of\\narchitecture, and very picturesque effect. During\\nthe middle ages, Antwerp was a very important, as\\nwell as wealthy city, and its splendid docks, its\\nwonderful cathedral, its magnificent paintings all\\ntestify that a period of exceptional prosperity has\\nbeen granted to it in the past.\\nA strange sight are the heavy freight wagons,\\nwith their broad wheels and various loads, drawn\\nby large powerful dogs. In many cases the dogs,\\nof which there are sometimes two or three, are\\nstrapped under the body of the wagon by a kind of\\nleather harness, or, if the owner be too poor, rope is\\nsubstituted. A man or woman assists in drawing", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 103\\nthe load, which is frequently so massive as to appear\\ndisproportioned to the combined strength of man\\nand beast. The dogs are bred and trained for their\\npeculiar vocation, and are never allowed to shirk\\ntheir part of the burden imposed upon them. Should\\nthey attempt to do so, they are quickly recalled to\\ntheir duty by a small whip, hence the maximum re-\\nsult may be obtained from their labor. Their muscular\\nlimbs show plainly that they possess great strength\\nand endurance. Large powerful draught horses with\\nwell defined muscles are also used. These horses\\nmust weigh fully from twelve to sixteen hundred\\npounds, and when four or six are harnessed abreast,\\ntons of merchandise may be moved in one load.\\nAntwerp, a city of about 260,000 inhabitants, is one\\nof the greatest seaports of Europe, having splendid\\nfacilities for ships of every size, and huge warehouses\\nfor the landing and storage of immense quantities\\nof merchandise. It is finely situated on the Schelde,\\nwhich is at this point one third of a mile wide and\\nthirty feet deep, and serves as an outlet for the com-\\nmerce of Germany as well as Belgium. The town\\nwas founded in the seventh century, and has passed\\nthrough many vicissitudes, attaining the summit of\\nits glory under the Emperor Charles V., about the\\nclose of the fifteenth century. At that period it is", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "104 Travel\\nsaid that thousands of vessels lay in the Schelde at\\none time, and a hundred or more arrived and de-\\nparted daily. Its decline began under the Spanish\\nrule, when the terrors of the Inquisition banished\\nthousands of its most valuable citizens, who sought\\nrefuge in other countries, especially in England,\\nwhere they established silk factories, and assisted\\ngreatly in stimulating the commerce of the country.\\nAfter scenes of war and frightful devastation, varied\\nby brief seasons of prosperity, the tide of success\\nonce more returned to the old harbors about 1863,\\nand since then its commerce has increased in a\\ngreater ratio than that of any other European city.\\nThe Flemish population predominates, and its\\ncharacteristics are those of a German town.\\nWe enjoy many lovely views along the river\\nfrontage, where dozens upon dozens of ships lining\\nthe banks, offer a variety of pictures to the lover of\\nwater scenes, besides the fine prospect of the town\\nfrom the river.\\nThat the Cathedral is the first attraction for the\\ntourist goes without saying, and those are well re-\\npaid who climb far up into its magnificent spire,\\neven beyond the great group of bells that captivate\\nthe soul with their wonderful sweetness and melody.\\nAt a height of four hundred feet, the vast prospect", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "The largest ami handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands.\\n{See page /oj.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 107\\nspread out before one is indescribably beautiful.\\nThis Cathedral, the largest and handsomest Gothic\\nchurch in the Netherlands, was begun in 1352, but\\nwas not completed until about 1616. The chimes\\nconsist of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is\\nonly fifteen inches in circumference, while the largest\\nweighs eight tons. The chimes are rung every fifteen\\nminutes, a musical reminder that the soul of man,\\nno matter what his occupation, should be elevated\\nby continual aspiration toward the living God. Oh,\\nthese beautiful chimes! What wondrous harmony\\nthey peal forth, and what a multitude of loving\\nthoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very\\ngates of heaven!\\nA stranger in the town, and a traveller, made the\\nremark to me that these bells must be very annoy-\\ning, ringing at such short intervals, and especially\\nat night, it is worse than a swarm of mosqui-\\ntoes, he said, for one can escape the attentions\\nof these insects by placing a net over his couch, but\\nthe piercing sounds of these monstrous bells pen-\\netrate one like the chill of zero weather. This re-\\nminded me of a rnan who shared our compartment\\nin one of the French railway cars, who interrupted\\nmy enthusiastic remarks on Westminster Abbey, its\\nexquisite associations, and the sacred atmosphere", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "io8 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwhich impressed all who came within its hallowed\\nwalls, by an eager question regarding the luncheon\\nto be served an hour later.\\nThe interior of the Cathedral impresses one with\\nits grand simplicity, and the long vistas of its six\\naisles present a fine effect. Here is Rubens famous\\nmasterpiece, the Descent from the Cross, and his\\nearlier painting, the Elevation of the Cross, both\\nmagnificent works, remarkable for the easy and\\nnatural attitudes of the figures. The high altar-piece\\nis an Assumption by Rubens, in which the Virgin\\nis pictured in the clouds surrounded by a heavenly\\nchoir, with the apostles and other figures below.\\nThere are many other paintings here; also stained\\nglass windows, both ancient and modern. The\\ntower is an open structure of beautiful and elaborate\\ndesign, from which lovely viev/s may be seen dur-\\ning the journey to its summit.\\nAnother interesting landmark is the Steen\\noriginally forming part of the Castle of Antwerp,\\nbut in 1549 Charles V. made it over to the burghers\\nof Antwerp. It was afterward the seat of the\\nSpanish Inquisition. It is now occupied by the\\nMuseum van Oudheden, a collection of ancient and\\ncurious relics from the Roman times till the eight-\\neenth century. Within this building one may view", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 109\\nthe identical instruments of torture so mercilessly\\nused by the Spanish inquisitors in the name of re-\\nligion. It would not be difficult to photograph\\nthese diabolical inventions, for many of them are\\nquite free from the surrounding objects, and not en-\\ncased, in this collection we see also specimens of\\nantique furniture, and a variety of ornaments, coins,\\ncostumes, tapestry curtains, ancient prints and en-\\ngravings, and many other objects well worthy of\\nobservation.\\nIn Antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing\\nsome exquisite laces and embroideries. A visit to\\none of the many establishments here cannot fail to\\ninterest the stranger. At one of the shops we are\\nconducted to a room in which a dozen girls are at\\nwork upon a delicate piece of lace. They have been\\nengaged upon this masterpiece for about three\\nmonths, and the proprietor tells us that as much\\nmore time will be required to finish it. The design\\nis a huge web, in the centre of which is the sly\\nspider apparently watching the victims who have\\nstrayed beyond the line of safety. A number of\\nhandsome and rare specimens of this valuable hand-\\nwork are exhibited in the shop window, and one s\\ndesire to possess them may be satisfied by a\\nmoderate expenditure of money.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "no Odd Bits of Travel\\nAntwerp is the city of Rubens. We find his\\ntomb in the beautiful church of St. Jacques, rich in\\ncarvings and noble paintings, not far from the fine\\naltarpiece painted by his hand. He lies in the\\nRubens Chapef, and here too are monuments of two\\nof his descendants. The house in which the illus-\\ntrious artist died stands in a street named for him,\\nand in the Place Verte, formerly the churchyard of\\nthe Cathedral, stands a bronze statue of Rubens,\\nthirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet\\nhigh. At the feet of the master lie scrolls and\\nbooks, also brushes, palette and hat; allusions to\\nthe talented diplomatist and statesman, as well as to\\nthe painter.\\nOne need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in\\nthis charming old town, for comfortable accommo-\\ndations and good board may be enjoyed at less than\\nmoderate rates. I love this dear city, not only for\\nits magnificent Cathedral, its rare paintings, its\\npicturesque surroundings; but also for the re-\\nmarkable hospitality of its people, their genial\\nmanner, their smiling faces. Their candor and\\nhonesty win the admiration and the heart of the\\ntourist, and the stranger is quickly at home, and\\nable to enjoy most fully the many attractions which\\nthe place affords.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "The place is intersected everywhere by canals. [Si-e /a^r /j", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 113\\nBut the time has come to bid it adieu; we take\\nthe train and in two hours find ourselves in the ever\\nquaint and picturesque town of Rotterdam, fitly\\nnamed the City of Windmills.\\nComfortable quarters may be found here at the\\nMaas Hotel. Rotterdam, whose population is some-\\nthing over two hundred thousand, is the second\\ncity in commercial importance in Holland. Among\\nits numerous attractions are art galleries, parks,\\ngardens, the markets, bridges and canals, without\\nmentioning the many windmills which wave their\\narms in blessing over the city. The place is inter-\\nsected everywhere by canals, all deep enough for\\nthe passage of heavily laden ships, and with such\\nnames as the Oude Haven, Scheepmakershaven,\\nLeuvehaven, Nieuwe Haven, Wynhaven, Blaak, and\\nHaringvliet.\\nOur hotel is situated upon the bank of the Maas\\nRiver, and our windows overlook this body of\\nwater, which is in reality a highway. Instead\\nof wagons drawn by strong muscular horses,\\nhowever, barges, schooners, sail boats, and every\\nkind of small craft, overflowing with fruits, vege-\\ntables and other produce, traverse the river as well\\nas the canals. Looking over these watery roads,\\nthe mind is confused by the hundreds of boats", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "114 Travel\\nwhich seem inextricably mingled in one great mass,\\nand appear to form a blockade as far as the eye can\\nreach. Rotterdam might fitly add to its title of\\nCity of Windmills, that of the City of Canals.\\nHouses, stores and other buildings are built directly\\nupon the banks, and in fact, the foundations of\\nthese form the sides of the canals. In many cases\\nthe balconies of residences overhang the water, and\\npassages are ma^ie beneath, by means of which pro-\\nduce, freight and other articles are conveyed to and\\nfrom the buildings by boats, much as the wagons\\ndeliver goods in our cities from the streets to the\\nhouses.\\nAll these novel sights impress the visitor with the\\ngreat difference between the manners and customs\\nof this nation and our ov/n; the result of the pecul-\\niar environment of the two countries. A stroll\\nabout the city affords abundant opportunity for in-\\nteresting observations. Here one sees hundreds of\\nDutch women in their costly headgear of gold and\\nsilver, heirlooms of many generations. These head\\nornaments sometimes cover the entire scalp, and\\nhave curious filigree additions extending over the\\nears and temples. The head is first covered with a\\nscrupulously clean and beautiful lace cap, upon\\nwhich the gold or silver ornament is placed. These", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 115\\nheirlooms are valued beyond all price, and I have\\nhandled some which are two hundred years old,\\nand which are held as sacred charges to be trans-\\nmitted to posterity.\\nAs we traverse the streets of this quaint city, we\\nfeel indeed that fashion has stood still here for\\nmany years. The custom is universal throughout\\nHolland for the natives of the different provinces,\\nas Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in pub-\\nlic, and especially when travelling, the costume pe-\\nculiar to their own province, and it is by no means\\nuncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed\\nwomen in close proximity to one another, each one\\nrepresenting by some peculiarity, a different prov-\\nince or section of the country. For instance; when\\nI see the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds,\\nand worn with a jacket of striped red and white,\\nand the peaked bonnet trimmed v/ith red and white\\ntape, I know that the wearer is a native of the is-\\nland of Marken. These various costumes, all gay\\nand picturesque, are the source of great pleasure to\\nthe stranger, and add new life and interest to his\\ntravels in this country.\\nHere also we notice the huge, powerful draught\\nhorses, with their massive hoofs and shaggy legs,\\ndrawing strange looking wagons laden with curi-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "ii6 Odd Bits of Travel\\nous boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn\\nby the working classes also attract our attention\\nand many other novel sights and customs give us\\nthe impression that we have chartered one of Jules\\nVerne s original conveyances and wandered off to a\\ncountry not located on this earthly planet.\\nWishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a\\ncandy shop and ask the fair maid behind the counter\\nto put up a pound of this confection our amaze-\\nment is great when she replies that this form of\\nsweetmeat is not to be found in Rotterdam.\\nWhat, I exclaim, no sweets for the sweet girls\\nof Holland? No, only chocolate candy. And\\nthis indeed is the only kind of bonbon to be had in\\nRotterdam. The sweet chocolate is moulded into\\nvarious shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity\\nand flavor that which is made in any other part of\\nthe world.\\nOur guide is very attentive and energetic; and\\nanxious to show us everything of interest about the\\ntown, he conducts us through the numerous mar-\\nket-places. At one of these some amusement is\\nexcited by my photographs and sketches of the\\nmarket people and the buyers. The market man\\nstands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured\\nface that seems to say that the cares and worries of", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water.\\n(See page 1/4.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 119\\nthis world affect him not at all. The whole scene\\nis like some vividly colored picture, and I think as I\\nlook upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of\\nwhich we of the outside world know nothing.\\nApparently the people of this country possess the\\nrare blessing of contentment with the lot which\\nGod has bestowed upon them.\\nAn old man and woman are particularly anxious\\nfor me to photograph their daughter, who they as-\\nsure me is the belie of the market. This assertion,\\n1 think, may be true without much compliment to\\nthe girl, for a homelier set of human beings it\\nwould not be easy to find. After some prelimina-\\nries relating to posing and keeping back the curious\\ncountry people who crowd closely around me and\\nthe camera, I finally succeed in making a good pic-\\nture of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her\\nfather and mother on either side. They are all as\\nproud as Punch of this performance, and seem\\nquite set up by the occasion.\\nOne day being near to a manufacturer of the\\nwooden shoes worn by the peasants, our party of\\nfour slips within the shop, and are fitted after try-\\ning on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent de-\\nlight of Meinherr. It is necessary to wear a heavy\\nwoollen stocking to secure comfort in these shoes.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "120 Odd Bits of Travel\\nThe ordinary American stocking would soon be\\nrubbed into holes by the hard surface of the shoe.\\nIndeed it is quite a feat to be able to walk rapidly\\nand gracefully in this clumsy footwear.\\nOver many of the watery streets of the city draw-\\nbridges are built, which are opened at intervals to\\nallow the streams of boats to pass. The incessant\\nblowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the\\ntally-ho notifies the watchman of the approach of\\nboats. This sound may be heard at all hours of the\\nday or night in any part of the city, and is at first,\\nespecially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger,\\nbut like other annoyances which are inevitable, the\\nexercise of a little patience and endurance will en-\\nable one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to\\nbecome as deaf to them as old Dame Eleanor\\nSpearing.\\nI know of no place in which the lover of the an-\\ntique, whether he is a collector of ancient coins,\\njewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after rare curios\\nand relics, can experience greater delight than in\\nthis old city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of\\nshops, whose proprietors devote their whole lives\\nto the accumulation of such objects, and it is need-\\nless to say that their stock is rich and unique, and\\npossesses abundant variety. We visit a number of", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "Antwerp and the City of Windmills 121\\nthese establishments, and I succeed in gathering up\\na large assortment of old swords which please my\\nfancy. One of these is said to have been owned by\\nChristopher Columbus The shopkeeper vouches\\nfor the truth of the statement, and as I am willing\\nto believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary,\\nI label it as the sword of the great navigator who\\nadded a new hemisphere to our globe. The remain-\\ning swords have been the personal property of\\nlords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and\\nagain I take comfort in the thought that if the rec-\\nords are not truthful, it is a minor consideration\\nwhen taking into account the moderate prices\\nwhich I have paid for the articles.\\nThe artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of ma-\\nterial both for figure subjects, and odd and pictur-\\nesque bits of landscape. Here too are wonderful\\ninteriors, with all the quaint associations of a by-\\ngone age. Here are scenes on the canals, the\\nbridges, and the ever changing life on the river.\\nBy all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original\\nstudies for your sketch book.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "The belle of the Market. {See page iig.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands*\\nAmsterdam The People of Holland Amstel River Merry Ex-\\ncursionists Interesting Institutions Origin of the City\\nSource of Prosperity A Cousin to Venice Ninety Islands\\nBeams and Gables Block and Tackle Old Salesmen\\nStreet Markets Haarlem Railway Travel at Home and\\nAbroad Ancient Buildings Historic Associations In the\\nCanal Groote Kerk The Great Organ Picturesque Sub-\\njects Zandvoort Eau de Cologne The Beach Dutch Sail\\nBoats Seamen Hooded Chairs Peddlers Music in Hol-\\nland and Germany Gypsies We Meet an Artist Hospital-\\nity A Banquet.\\nMSTERDAM, the commercial capital of\\nHolland, is but a short ride from Rotter-\\ndam, and like all the other dam cities\\nof this region, possesses many attractions\\nof its own, besides being the centre or hub from\\nwhich radiate trips to many picturesque towns and\\nother points of interest.\\nThese irreverent sounding terminations do not by\\nany means imply that the cities so called are steeped in\\nwickedness and crime. On the contrary they are re-\\nmarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and\\nhonesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools\\n127", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "128 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwhich bear witness to the good and loving aspira-\\ntions of a conscientious Christian people.\\nThe natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in\\ndisposition, and fair in their dealings with one\\nanother. They are personally very attractive on\\naccount of the natural simplicity of their everyday\\nlives, and the high principle of honor and morality\\nupon which they conduct their business transactions.\\nThey train their children in accordance with these\\nprinciples, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate\\ntheir virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that\\nhe will receive fair and courteous treatment from\\nboth young and old.\\nThe Amstel River, viewed from the windows of\\nour hotel, presents a beautiful picture. Upon the op-\\nposite bank are handsome residences, of substantial,\\nsquare and regular architecture, while in slow, calm\\nmotion on the river may be seen boats of every de-\\nscription, many of them with a cargo of human\\nbeings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant\\nbunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala ap-\\npearance as the boats steam or row past our hotel.\\nMerry songs and happy laughter drift back to our\\nears, and it seems as though we have at last reached\\na land exempt from the cares and sorrows of the\\neveryday world.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 129\\nThe Dutch people are as a class happy and satis-\\nfied, with a cheerful manner, and a cordial and\\ngenuine welcome.\\nAmsterdam is indeed a great city, with number-\\nless points of interest for the visitor, without\\nmentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres,\\nlibraries, churches and other institutions; its botani-\\ncal garden, university, parks and tramways.\\nThe town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of\\nAmstel, who built a castle here in 1204, and con-\\nstructed the dam to which it owes its name. In the\\nfourteenth century it began to increase in impor-\\ntance, becoming at that time a refuge for the mer-\\nchants who were banished from Brabant. At the\\nclose of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was\\nruined by the Spanish war, and many merchants,\\nmanufacturers, artists and other men of talent and\\nenterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to\\nHolland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population,\\nand the conclusion of peace in 1609, and the estab-\\nlishment of the East India Company combined to\\nraise the town within a short time to the rank of\\nthe greatest commercial city in Europe. Its popula-\\ntion in 1890, excluding the suburbs, was 406,300.\\nAmsterdam is generally at first sight compared\\nwith Venice, which it certainly resembles in two", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "130 Odd Bits of Travel\\npoints. Both cities are intersected by numerous\\ncanals, and tlie buildings of both are constructed\\nupon piles; but there the similarity ends. There are\\nwide, bustling thoroughfares in Amsterdam, trav-\\nersed by wagons and drays which could have no\\nplace in the city of gondolas and ancient palaces.\\nThe canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amster-\\ndam in every direction, are of various sizes, and di-\\nvide the city into ninety islands; and these are con-\\nnected by nearly three hundred bridges. There are\\nfour principal, or grand canals, which are in broad,\\nhandsome avenues, bordered with trees, and with\\nsidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals inter-\\nsect these and serve to connect one part of the town\\nwith another, as short streets cross wide highways\\nand main thoroughfares in other places. Rows of\\nfine-looking houses line the banks of these water-\\ncourses, and as all the buildings are constructed on\\nfoundations of piles, the old quotation of a city\\nwhose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees Uke\\nrooks, is not without considerable truth. The\\nquaint old architecture of the stores and houses is of\\nitself a source of great interest to the visitor. We\\nhave seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and\\ntiled roofs overhanging the windows, that at first\\none has the impression of awakening from a dream", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "The Anistel River. [See page 128", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 13;^\\nto its reality. Remarkable order and cleanliness\\nprevail everywhere, adding to tliis feeling, for the\\nwear and tear of daily living do not seem to affect\\nthe almost immaculate atmosphere of the place.\\nWindows are as clear as crystal, and the woodwork\\nof the houses everywhere looks as if freshly\\nscrubbed and sanded. Projecting from the attic\\nwindows of many buildings may be seen a pole or\\nbeam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to\\nhoist furniture and other heavy or bulky articles\\nfrom the sidewalk to the upper stories. These\\nthings are not carried up the winding stairway, as\\nwith us, scratching and defacing the walls and\\npaint, as well as the furniture, and resulting in\\nmuch vexation and the utterance of unseemly swear\\nwords. All this is avoided by the methods of the\\npeople of Holland, and the citizens of America\\nwould profit by adopting them, if only as a means\\nof avoiding the temptation to express one s feelings\\nin violent and irreligious language.\\nAmong the thousand and one attractions of this\\ninteresting city, the curious-looking old junks, or\\nsalesmen and women stationed at various points on\\nthe streets, are not unworthy the notice of the pho-\\ntographer or artist. Their wares consist of old\\nscrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps toothless, hammers", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "134 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwithout handles, nails of every size, files, beds and\\nother articles of furniture apparently dating back to\\nscriptural ages. Such markets, where odds and\\nends of every imaginable kind are gathered into\\npiles and sold to the poorer classes of the people,\\nseem to be sanctioned by the authorities, and some-\\ntimes present a very active and thriving appearance.\\nThey are not unpicturesque in their odd combina-\\ntions of color, attitude and expression.\\nThe great windmills along the canal, with their\\nhuge revolving arms, and the boats with their loads\\nof merchandise the peasant women with their\\nquaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-\\ndresses; the tall Dutch houses with their red and\\nyellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and gables, the\\nbeautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten,\\nthe vast docks, with forests of masts, and countless\\nships from all parts of the world, and products of\\nevery country, the wonderful dikes, all form a suc-\\ncession of views of charming variety and individual\\nbeauty that are fascinating to the newcomer.\\nMany short trips may be taken from here either\\nby boat or train, and he who would fill his portfolio\\nwith quaint and lovely pictures, will find his en-\\nthusiasm aroused, no matter in which direction he\\nmay venture, or whether his expedition be on land", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 135\\nor water. Interesting localities are always within\\neasy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation\\nand accommodation render all points accessible to\\nthe traveller whose purse is of the most slender\\ndimensions.\\nTake with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort.\\nProceeding to the Central Railroad Station, we pur-\\nchase tickets which entitle us to the short ride in\\nthe usual compartment car. And here one may\\nnote the difference between railroad travel through-\\nout England and on the Continent, and the Ameri-\\ncan system, instead of having one car into which\\npassengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and\\npoor, merchants and emigrants crowd as in free\\nAmerica, European trains are divided into three sec-\\ntions, viz: first, second and third class. Although\\nthe more general experience is that the second class\\ncompartments are quite as comfortable, clean and\\nattractive as the first class compartments, the price\\nof the latter is nearly double that of the former, and\\nthe fare of the second class nearly double that of\\nthe third. In many sections of England, Scotland\\nand Germany, the third class accommodations are\\nby no means unpleasant: but do not take third class\\ntickets when travelling in Ireland, for should you do\\nso, it is more than probable that just as you are", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "136 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwaxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic\\nand beautiful scenery around you, Paddy with his\\nwife and progeny, several pigs, and whatever other\\nsmall live stock can be conveniently or inconven-\\niently dragged along, will be planted by your side,\\nor roam about you in such unpleasant proximity as\\nto change all your romantic visions into the most\\nunromantic prose.\\nHere we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem,\\nfamous in past years for its tulips, and now noted\\nfor its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well as for\\nthe curious old houses of brick and stone v/hich are\\nthe delight of all the visitors to Holland. These\\nlofty steeples and rovv^s of ancient and picturesque\\nhouses have looked down upon many generations,\\nand witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance\\nthat have been registered on the pages of history\\nfor like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege\\nduring the war for independence, and stones of the\\nheroism of both men and women have come down\\nthrough the long centuries to tell us of experiences\\nof which these ancient structures, stately and silent,\\ngive no sign. So well cared for are the old build-\\nings, that one can readily imagine that they will ap-\\npear as they do to-day for many centuries to come.\\nHow we enjoy this historic old place! The very", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 137\\nair we breathe seems laden with odors of the past.\\nThe flower-beds are wonderfully attractive, with\\ntheir gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole\\nfields of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant\\nblooming plants in every shade of color are to be\\nseen here, and this town supplies many of the larg-\\nest gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne\\nRiver winds through the town, which possesses\\nthe characteristic cleanliness of the other cities of\\nHolland.\\nWhile driving along the bank of the canal here,\\nour attention is attracted by the sound of loud,\\nshrill cries which seem to come from the water.\\nWhat! I say, do the lurking spirits of the slain\\nthus make themselves known to the living.? Are\\nthere still lingering pale gliding ghosts, with fin-\\ngers dropping gore Whatever it may be, dead\\nor living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and\\nalighting, hasten to the edge of the canal. Looking\\ninto the dark muddy water, I see a lad of about\\ntwelve years, just able to keep his head above the\\nstream, and screaming lustily for help. A young\\nman reaches the spot at the sam.e moment, and\\nplunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the\\nboy who is too much frightened and exhausted to\\ngive any account of himself.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "138 Odd Bits of Travel\\nThe Groote market is in the middle of the\\ntown, and here is to be seen one of the finest old\\nbuildings in this part of the country. This is the\\nancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and\\nstone, and quaint and picturesque enough to charm\\nthe soul of an artist v/ith an irresistible desire to\\ncarry it home upon his canvas.\\nIn the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk,\\nan imposing and lofty structure, dating back to the\\nend of the fifteenth century, with its tower of two\\nhundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty\\nto the edifice. The interior will more than repay\\none for the time spent in examining it. The old\\nwalls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time\\nand cover the scars, many of which, history tells\\nus, are the results of the Spanish siege. Here\\nare odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive\\nbenches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling\\nalone would convince one of the antiquity of this\\nrelic of the middle ages. The organ, constructed\\nin 1735, was for many years looked upon as the\\nmost powerful in the world, and still ranks as one\\nof the largest instruments in existence. It contains\\nfour keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five thousand\\npipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in\\ndiameter, and thirty two feet in length. We en-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 139\\ndeavor to persuade the rector to allow us to play\\nupon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond\\nflattery, coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to\\nthe rigid rules, which decree that recitals shall be\\nheld only on certain regular days. How we long\\nto hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which\\nhas uplifted the soul of man, and bidden him look\\nto God in his times of tribulation, or fill this lofty\\ndome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving\\nin days of peace and prosperity. I think of the\\nstories these old walls could tell of the cruelties of\\nthe Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep\\nfor paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one\\ncould write interminably of these old towns with\\ntheir quaint and glowing pictures. At every turn a\\nnew and attractive scene presents itself, and we\\nreluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied,\\nand proceed to Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable\\nresort on the coast of the Noord Zee. At the railway\\nstations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne\\nwater in small glass bottles which is so popular\\nthroughout Holland, and which is sold much as\\npeanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The\\nquality is excellent, and the price is so moderate\\nthat the use of this perfume is really carried to ex-\\ncess by tourists, who find that it not only refreshes", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "140 Odd Bits of Travel\\none after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the\\nface from dust and cinders.\\nWe alight at a small unpretentious station, the\\nterminus of this railroad, and walk a short distance\\nto the beach. The pure salt air seems like a delight-\\nful tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping gradually\\nto the water which is very deep. With the white\\nsand for a carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting\\nour eyes upon the lovely scene which at every turn\\npresents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail\\nboats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is en-\\nhanced by the groups of sailors waiting for the\\ntide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged faces\\nand not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to\\nthe artist.\\nThe season seems to be either early or late, for\\nthe people along the shore are scant in number.\\nFresh looking wicker chairs, with large comfortable\\nseats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the\\nhotels and at the water s edge, and at a trifling cost,\\noffer rest to the weary pedestrian, and protection to\\nthe shy lovers who seek to escape the embarrassing\\ngaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and per-\\nsevering fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with\\nbasket suspended from the shoulder, pausing before\\nthe chairs, or waylaying passers-by with importuni-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "Wicker cliairs offer rest to tlie weary pedestrian. [See page 140.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 14^\\nties to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various\\nother dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians\\nwith stringed instruments, who charm us with their\\ndelightful melodies. Their music is superior to that\\nwhich greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia.\\nIn truth, in Holland and Germany, one rarely hears\\nanything but good music from these bands of itin-\\nerant players, and operatic selections of the higher\\nclass are frequently heard at the popular beer\\ngardens of these countries.\\nA short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy\\nencampment, and the quick witted members of\\nthese roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune tell-\\ning. We are told that they are always to be found\\nhere during the summer season, and are quite\\npopular among the young and the credulous, who\\nwillingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the\\nfuture, and the wonderful predictions of fame and\\nfortune made by these glib tongued southerners.\\nTheir gay dresses, in some of which are displayed\\nall the colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect:\\nand now I discover in one of the great hooded\\nchairs a lady artist, with a well covered canvas,\\nupon which she is painting the portrait of a hand-\\nsome gypsy girl, while the wagons and the sea\\nform a beautiful background. I enter into conver-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "144 Odd Bits of Travel\\nsation with her, and learn that she is from Amster-\\ndam, and is filled with enthusiasm for the charms\\nof this country. She says: If one will but open\\nhis eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every\\ncorner of the province. And it is true. Nature\\nhas indeed been lavish in her gifts to Holland.\\nHere are scenes and subjects unlimited in number,\\nand indescribably attractive.\\nThe citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and\\nhospitable. As an instance of their cordiality I\\nmention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor\\nby a townsman Mr. L who says we must not\\nreturn home without a glimpse of the social life of\\nthe city. The banquet is held at the largest and\\nmost popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier),\\nand besides our host and his family, a few intimate\\nfriends and some young people are present. At the\\nappointed hour we are driven to a spacious and\\nhandsome building, and are conducted to a beauti-\\nful apartment with most attractive surroundings.\\nThe first floor of this hall is elegantly furnished, and\\nlit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other\\ntropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a\\ncordial welcome from our host, we are led to the\\nbanqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the light\\nand beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "A City of Many Islands 145\\neffect. Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers,\\nplants and fruits are picturesquely arranged, and\\neven the electric lights exhibit various glowing de-\\nsigns. The feast is prepared under the direction of\\nan experienced chef, and here we speedily become\\naware that the city of Amsterdam is not one whit\\nbehind the great centres of the world in this line of\\nachievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and\\nits people have been responded to, the hospitalities\\nare concluded with one to America and its beauti-\\nful women, and we take our departure after three\\nhours most delightfully spent in social intercourse\\nwith our friends. Upon this occasion four lan-\\nguages, French, Dutch, German and English are\\nfluently spoken.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek and\\nthe Island of Marken.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken*\\nA Charming Journey Fellow-Passengers National Costumes\\nThe Children A Lovely Landscape Holstein Cattle\\nWindmills Irrigation Farmers A Typical Dutch Village\\nWashing-Day The Red, White and Blue Suppose a Bull\\nShould Appear A Brilliant Picture Drawing the Canal\\nBoat Honesty and Cleanliness A Thrifty and Industrious\\nPeople Farming and Cheesemaking As Evening Falls\\nScenes for an Artist Dead Cities of Holland Monnikendam\\nBehind the Age City Lamps Houses and People The\\nIsland of Marken An Isolated Wonderland First Impres-\\nsions Rare Holidays The Family Doctor Absence of the\\nMen The Fishing Healthy and Industrious population\\nThe Women of Marken\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Pretty Girls\u00e2\u0080\u0094 They Will not be\\nTaken A Valuable Experience Photographs,\\nBEAUTIFUL trip is that to Broek. We take\\nthe small steamer that lies in the river a\\nshort distance from our hotel, the Amstel,\\nand after a sail of three-quarters of an\\nhour, are landed at an insignificant station on the\\nopposite shore. Here a little car with bare wooden\\nseats running lengthwise, and a queer looking engine\\nwaits for passengers from the boat. And now we\\nride through a picturesque farming country, passing\\nnumerous small stations. This road terminates at\\n149", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "i^o Odd Bits of Travel\\nEdam, but we do not go that far. Our fellow-pas-\\nsengers are most interesting. Many of the women\\nwear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroid-\\nered caps which are so quaint and becoming, and\\nall wear the customary wooden shoes.\\nThe men have rugged brown faces, and sinewy\\narms: some of them wear the heavy wooden shoes,\\nothers slippers, while a number are barefooted.\\nHow they all stare at us, and it is just as impossible\\nfor us to withdraw our eyes from them. We are\\nnovel sights to each other. I wonder what they\\nthink of our appearance. Their faces are impassive,\\nbut ours must surely express wonder, admiration\\nand a strong desire on the part of one at least, to\\ncapture these studies in color and figure that sur-\\nround us on every side.\\nThe children, with their rosy cheeks and round\\nhealthy forms, seem merry and happy, although\\nnone of them are sociable or talkative with us. They\\nlook at us in amazement. This is a delightful ride\\nover a smooth velvety road, with rich pasture land\\non either side. Now we pass great dikes which\\nhold back the waters from these fertile fields; and\\nnow short canals with their little boats, on which\\nperhaps the Dutch vrow in her snowy cap and gold\\nheaddress is seated beside her husband who smokes", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle. {See page /jj.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek. 153\\nhis pipe with a meditative air. The flat landscape\\nis varied by innumerable herds of cattle, principally of\\nHolstein breed, with the great white bands encircling\\nthe bodies, which reminds me of the story of the\\nYankee who used this band for a foundation upon\\nwhich to paint his sign The finest milk and cream\\nin the world within. Price two cents per quart.\\nHundreds of windmills may be seen with their\\nlong wings gracefully moving at the touch of a\\ngentle breeze, in perfect harmony with the sur-\\nrounding landscape. These mills have been used\\nfor many centuries in Holland, which is their mother\\ncountry, and serve for draining the land, or for\\nmanufacturing purposes. They are placed upon a\\nsubstantial foundation of brick or stone, and their\\nenormous sails describe a circle of over a hundred\\nfeet in diameter: some run saws that cut through\\nlogs of great thickness, while others are huge grain\\nmills. The smaller windmills are made of wood\\nlike those seen in some portions of our own country.\\nThe system of irrigation by means of windmills is\\nvery complete in Holland, thus it is that we see\\neverywhere such beautiful fertile fields. Many of\\nthe farms in this locality employ three or four, and\\neven more windmills for this purpose.\\nWe see many farmers, with their wives and", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "154 O^d ^i ^s of Travel\\nchildren, working in the fields, and they all stop for\\nan instant as our train passes, to shout a merry\\ngreeting. Here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes\\nalong the road. Flocks of sheep stand in the shadow\\nof the trees, and armies of quacking ducks emerge\\nfrom a marshy pool and spread themselves across\\nthe green.\\nThe average speed of our antediluvian express is\\nfrom five to seven miles an hour, but it is perfectly\\nsatisfactory to these deliberate people and as to\\nourselves, we are enjoying everything too much\\nto wish it shortened by one minute. We ar-\\nrive, however, at Broek, which is celebrated as one\\nof the cleanest towns in the world. It contains\\nabout sixteen hundred inhabitants, and its narrow\\nstreets are paved with yellow bricks which are kept\\nscrupulously clean. The small frame houses have\\ntiled roofs, and with their flower gardens, present\\nan orderly appearance. The whole atmosphere of\\nthe place is one of primitive simplicity. Some of\\nthe buildings are painted white, some green, and\\nothers of a variety of hues. They all wear an in-\\ndescribable air of repose: and it is said that the\\nfront doors are not opened from the beginning to\\nthe end of the year, except on the occasion of a\\nwedding or a funeral. The gardens are veritable", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "Most of the houses have a canal at the back. {See page 7,-7.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek 157\\ncuriosities, with their old-fashioned flower-beds,\\nand box-bushes cut into various fantastic shapes,\\nand all so diminutive that one feels as though he has\\nfallen upon an animated edition of the Noah s Ark\\nof his childish days.\\nMost of the houses have a canal or small stream\\nat the back, and close by, upon a washing-day, the\\ngarments of the family may be seen flying in the\\nbreeze, displaying to the stranger the prevailing\\ncolors of the community, which are red, white and\\nblue. Red predominates, however, since red flan-\\nnel is universally worn by the middle and lower\\nclasses in Holland. I think of the fine bull which\\nwe saw but a short time ago, grazing so peacefully\\nin the meadow, and wonder what effect this expos-\\nure of tantalizing color would have upon his equa-\\nnimity. Should he be let loose among the back\\ngardens of Broek upon a washing-day, the order\\nof this immaculate village would certainly receive a\\nshock. For once in the history of the place, things\\nwould be topsy-turvy, and the excitement would\\ndoubtless surpass anything previously seen in this\\npeaceful town.\\nWhat beautiful and picturesque combinations are\\nhere! The varying shades of green and blue, min-\\ngled with harmonious tints of yellow, produce a", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "158 Odd Bits of Travel\\nscene for the impressionist, while the effect is en-\\nhanced by the streams and canals which wind in\\nand out with many a turn and twist, apparently for\\nthe sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this\\nquaint and unique locality.\\nOccasionally we see a canal boat of larger size\\ndrawn by a buxom Dutch maiden and her brother;\\nor not infrequently it is the old man and his wife,\\nand sometimes the entire family all strenuously tug-\\nging the stout rope which is securely fastened to\\nthe bow of the boat, while the dilapidated old craft,\\nladen with merchandise or produce creaks slowly\\non its way, breaking the placid surface of the wa-\\nter with a soft musical plash.\\nHonesty and truthfulness are unmistakably im-\\npressed upon the faces of all whom we meet in this\\nsection. The people hereabouts do not possess the\\nshrewd business capacity of our Wall Street bro-\\nkers, but they are mild and pleasant, with a whole-\\nsome appearance of health and good appetite.\\nThey are individually as clean and orderly as is their\\nvillage. Water is as cheap here as in America, but\\nin this place there seems to be an extravagance in\\nthe use of it which far exceeds that of the same\\nclass in our country.\\nThere are no beggars or idlers here. The people", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek 159\\nare so thrifty and industrious that no portion of the\\nday is wasted. Every one seems to have an ap-\\npointed task, even the small children, whom we\\nsee feeding the ducks and pigs. AH are engaged in\\nsome useful occupation.\\nFarming and cheesemaking are the principal in-\\ndustries, although other branches of business, such\\nas stock-raising, fishing, boat-making, and the\\nmanufacture of wooden shoes, are carried on to\\nsome extent.\\nOur visit to the village naturally attracts some at-\\ntention, as foreigners are rarely seen in these out of\\nthe way corners.\\nAs evening steals upon us, the scene grows inde-\\nscribably lovely, for the sun in his descent illumines\\nthe whole landscape with vivid gleams of many\\ncolors. The blue stream which finds its outlet in\\nthe larger river, changes its sombre hue to one of\\ndazzling gold, which throws out rich reflections of\\nclouds and foliage. A fairy-like transformation\\nseems to have taken place in the streets and houses;\\nand, as we leave the village and the shades of night\\nfall about us, my thoughts are with the artist, the\\nphotographer, the impressionist, who would feel\\nthe most exquisite delight in such an opportunity;\\nfor he who could do justice to this landscape either", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "i6o Odd Bits of Travel\\nwith brush or camera, would produce a picture\\nworthy of place among the noblest works of art.\\nWe have heard so much of the Dead cities of\\nHolland, and especially of the secluded life on the\\nisland of Marken, that we determine to see for our-\\nselves what this term really signifies. On our way\\nthither, we pass through the old town of Monniken-\\ndam, in which we behold many strange and curi-\\nous sights. People and buildings impress us with\\nthe idea that Father Time has forgotten this\\nplace altogether in his rounds of cutting down and\\nmaking place for newcomers. The ancient and\\npicturesque houses look as though coeval with Time\\nhimself; but in truth they are only mediaeval; it is\\nthe people who have stood still. The present age\\nhas no place in their lives.\\nThe population of the town numbers about\\ntwenty-three hundred, and this is largely made up\\nof children, judging from the appearance of the\\nstreets. The main street is wide and attractive, but\\nthe side streets are narrow, and all are paved with\\nhard bricks placed edgewise. At night the town is\\nlighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts: coal is\\ngenerally used for fuel, but some of the residents\\nuse gasoline, which also serves for light. The\\nhouses are primitive in construction, and the people", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "The blue stream tiiuU Us ouilet in the rivec. i^See J age /j y.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek 163\\nseem odd and inquisitive, but simple and econom-\\nical in dress and habit. As we expect to return in\\na short time, we direct our course without delay to\\nthe Island of Marken.\\nA good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the Zuyder Zee,\\nbeside the banks of Monnikendam. The captain is\\na full-blooded Markenite, born and bred on the\\nisland. Having made arrangements with him, we\\ngo on board and are soon on our way to the strange\\ncity: our hearts beat more quickly, and all eyes are\\neagerly strained toward it, when the distant island\\nappears in the direction of our yacht s bow. After\\nan hour s sail, we come to anchor in the harbor of\\nthis secluded wonderland. As we approach the\\ntown, the view from our boat seems to justify the\\ntitle which has been given to it of the Dead City.\\nIt lies away from everything and everybody, and\\nsave the deep sea which surrounds it, and which\\nsupplies its inhabitants with food, the island of\\nMarken has for centuries known no association out-\\nside its own boundaries.\\nNo news is carried to or from this isolated region.\\nAt rare intervals an islander, by temperament more\\nadventurous or enterprising than his fellows, makes\\nthe daring undertaking of a visit to Monnikendam,\\nor the bolder flight to Amsterdam, although there", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "164 Odd Bits of Travel\\nare but few instances on record of such a reckless\\nproceeding as the last. The place has a population\\nof about thirteen hundred souls, and one may form\\nan idea of the health of its inhabitants from the fact\\nthat one doctor, without an assistant, is the family\\nphysician for all the people on the island, and we\\nare told that calls upon his professional attention are\\nnot sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from\\nforming on his medicine chest.\\nThe Dutch language is spoken here, and it is so\\nrare to find any one who understands English, that\\nit is necessary to bring an interpreter as well as\\nguide in visiting this secluded spot. The inhabitants\\nlook upon us as though we have dropped from the\\nclouds, or sprung suddenly out of the earth. It is\\nunfortunate that we have come here on Monday, for\\non this day the men of the island go off in their\\nfishing boats, and do not return till Saturday night.\\nOnly the old and crippled are left with the women\\nand children. Sunday is the one day in the week\\nwhich the men may spend with their wives and\\nsweethearts. Fishing is the sole means of sub-\\nsistence here. The native inhabitants are industrious\\nand economical, but of a low type of intellect,\\nrarely if ever displaying interest in literary attain-\\nments. Health and good appetites seem to be their", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "All persuasions accomplish naught. [See age i68.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek 167\\nchief characteristics, and a more law-abiding, inno-\\ncent and virtuous people it would be difficult to\\nfind. The women are large, muscular and well\\nshaped, and appear fully able to protect and care\\nfor their households in the absence of the men.\\nI am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by\\nforce of arms, some of these rare types of strength\\nand beauty, and observing too pretty young girls\\nstanding in the doorway of one of the houses, both\\nperfect specimens of physical health, I think this an\\nopportunity not to be neglected. What a fine\\npicture they present with their erect forms, their\\nfirm round arms, rosy cheeks and bright eyes!\\nThey are well proportioned, and looking at their\\nsmiling faces one can readily understand that a phy-\\nsician in a locality whose residents are represented\\nby such glowing life as that which is now before\\nme, may easily find time to be absent from his\\nduties a year or two.\\nFired with enthusiasm, I approach the girls who\\nare talking to a couple of old women, and am about\\nto make a snap shot of the group, when sud-\\ndenly perceiving my intention, they fly into the\\nhouse like frightened deer, to the amusement of the\\nold women, and the grief of the writer. Deter-\\nmined not to be outdone, for now this picture be-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "i68 Odd Bits of Travel\\nyond all others is the desire of my heart, I enter the\\nhouse and learn that the young damsels have sought\\nrefuge in the loft, and are hiding, ostrich like, with\\ntheir heads buried in a mass of clothing. All my\\npersuasions, aided by those of the older women,\\naccomplish nought, even the liberal offer of silver\\nguilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate\\nmaids, and I am obliged to relinquish my desire.\\nHowever, I have made a valuable discovery, and\\nthat is that it is better under some circumstances not\\nto ask for the privilege, but to resort to strategy. I\\nrequest one or more of our party to engage the pro-\\nposed subject in conversation, while I retire to a\\nsuitable distance with my camera, focus the group,\\nthen fire away. This plan succeeds admirably, and\\nmy collection increases steadily and satisfactorily.\\nHowever, upon better acquaintance with the\\ntownspeople and the repeated assurances of our\\nskipper, who speaks some English, that our pur-\\npose is an innocent one, we are allowed to photo-\\ngraph the whole town freely, and all its valuable\\npossessions. Occasionally a guilder slipped quietly\\ninto the hand of one of the older women opens a\\nnew vein of good fortune, for they insist that the\\ngentleman shall be allowed to take the picture;\\nwhether it be an old-fashioned interior with its", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "One old woman is fascinated with the camera. {See page i-jt.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "Excursions to Broek 171\\nquaint belongings, or a pretty maid too shy to hold\\nher head up properly. One old woman is so fas-\\ncinated with the camera that she asks me to take\\npicture after picture of her homely wrinkled coun-\\ntenance. At first 1 do so to her extreme delight,\\nbut finally I only pretend to take her picture, and\\nthe last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles\\nare all wasted upon an unimpressionable plate.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "The Ancient Town\\nof Monnikendam.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "We walk along the narrow streets. [See page 177.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "The Ancient Town of Monnikendam*\\nMarken Homes Beds in the Wall Family Heirlooms An An-\\ncient Clock Precious Treasures Quaint Customs Betrothed\\nCouples The Hotel Its Interior A Lack of Patrons Cos-\\ntumes of a Bygone Age Farewell to Marken Remote Dis-\\ntricts Monnikendam Ancient Houses Hotel de Posthoorn\\nThe Postman of the Past A Difficult Stairway We Stroll\\nabout the Town Our Retinue In Front of the Hotel Such\\nCurious Children Supper We Visit the Shops Pantomime\\nA Novel Experience They Cannot Understand No\\nCandles We Attract a Crowd The Clothing Store A\\nMarken Suit Too High Bargaining A Stranger to the\\nRescue.\\nE walk along the narrow streets, some of\\nwhich are paved with little footways,\\nand now and then visit one of the\\nwhitewashed frame houses with their\\nred tiled roofs. These houses are built after one\\npattern, and resemble each other so closely in their\\ncrude architecture, that a stranger might easily make\\na mistake, and enter the wrong door, without hav-\\ning previously taken anything stronger than a glass\\nof water. The interior consists of four small rooms,\\nwhich are kept scrupulously clean and orderly.\\nOne of these is used as a living-room, and one as\\n177", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "178 Odd Bits of Travel\\ndining-room and kitchen. The beds of the family\\nare simply close, dark recesses in the wall, in which\\nthere are bunks or shelves, and on these the mat-\\ntresses and bed clothing are placed, the occupants\\nmounting by means of wooden steps to this ill-\\nventilated and most uninviting resting-place. We\\nshudder as we glance into these dismal closets, and\\nfeel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping\\nin one of them.\\nIn every house there seems to be reserved a spe-\\ncial apartment, as a storage-place for the family\\nheirlooms, and here are preserved articles which\\nhave been handed down from generation to genera-\\ntion for centuries. Dolls of various primitive shapes,\\nbroken and torn, with black, dusty clothing; clocks\\nlong since arrested in their career by age or acci-\\ndent; chairs of rude manufacture, with perhaps a\\nbroken leg or back; watches and jewelry of ancient\\ndesign; odd furniture and pieces of china, besides\\nother relics which would be useful only in an exhi-\\nbition of the antique. All these things are sacred\\nin the eyes of their owners, who would as soon\\nthink of parting with one of their children as of\\nallowing one of these treasures to pass out of the\\nfamily.\\nAt one of the houses I see stored among the heir-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikendam 179\\nlooms a clock, which the owner informs me has\\nbeen in the family for two hundred and fifty years.\\nI do not doubt the assertion, for it looks as though\\nthe dust of a thousand years has silently but stead-\\nily accumulated upon its venerable face. I am\\nabout with my handkerchief to brush off some of\\nthis precious dust, in order to see the wood and\\nbrass in their peculiar coloring and design, but am\\nquietly stopped by the hand of my host.\\nThere is a noticeable rivalry between the different\\nfamilies in regard to these treasures which are\\nplaced carefully away, as if too sacred for the light\\nof day, and are shown to the visitor much as the\\nguide employed in the mint allows one to touch a\\npiece of gold or silver in the early process of coin-\\nage. Each family tries to outdo the others in its\\ncollection, and in the ancient appearance of the\\nhoard. It is amusing to watch their faces, when\\nexhibiting the wonders: they seem very uneasy if\\nthe stranger offers to touch one of the pieces, as\\nthough in terror lest it should thus lose some of\\nthose precious particles which enhance its value.\\nAt another house I am allowed, as a great favor,\\nto examine one of the dolls, and really the anxiety\\nshown until the owner has placed it once more in\\nits place in his collection is ludicrous. The most", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "i8o Odd Bits of Travel\\ndelicate human being, or a piece of frail egg-shell\\nchina could not be more tenderly handled.\\nThese people are quite as quaint in appearance\\nas in their customs. The old-time costume of\\nthe island is worn as in other parts of Holland,\\nbut here there is an intensity of ancientness, if I\\nmay use the expression, which must be seen in\\norder to be fully appreciated. They really seem\\nthe remnants of a dead era, and in all their\\nways display a want of experience of the out-\\nside world, a lack of that perception which\\nthe men and women of to-day seem to inhale\\nwith the very atmosphere, which is truly astonish-\\ning. The marriage and betrothal customs are es-\\npecially peculiar. We learn that an engaged couple\\ncannot wed until five years have elapsed since the\\nannouncement of the betrothal; and should a death\\noccur in either family in the meantime, it is con-\\nsidered such an ill omen that the engagement is\\nbroken off altogether: at the end of a year, how-\\never, a new engagement may be entered into, and\\nafter a second long period of waiting the wedding\\nis consummated.\\nThere are many rigid rules of etiquette connected\\nwith these engagements; for instance: should the\\nyoung lover, upon each meeting, neglect to impress", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike scene.\\n[See page J Ss.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikendam 183\\na kiss upon the cheek of every member of the fam-\\nily of his fiancee, the contract is annulled. One\\ncan readily believe almost any statement regarding\\nthese strange people who seem like a peculiar race\\nstranded upon a desert island. Still from ocular\\ndemonstration, we feel very certain that notwith-\\nstanding these stringent rules, there is no lack of\\nweddings among the young people, for there is an\\noverwhelming number of children upon the island.\\nMarken boasts of a hotel, and the owner and\\nlandlord tells us as he stands proudly upon its\\nstoop, that this bold enterprise issued from his fer-\\ntile brain, and that he is looking for a rich return\\nfor his venture. I respond with as much enthu-\\nsiasm as I can gather upon this occasion, but fear\\nhe would receive but cold comfort from the true\\nstate of my mind on the subject. The building\\nconsists of six rooms which he pronounces quite\\nmodern. On the lower floor are a kitchen, ten feet\\nby ten, and a dining-room, twelve by fourteen,\\nwhich also serves as a barroom, sitting-room and\\nsmoking den, all rolled into one. Here the guests\\nare supposed to reach the acme of ease and com-\\nfort. A bare wooden table and six chairs comprise\\nthe furniture of the room, and there is nothing else\\nvisible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "184 Odd Bits of Travel\\nat the windows. Upstairs are three bedrooms,\\nscantily furnished; here too the windows are cur-\\ntained. The freshness of these rooms and their\\nsurroundings gives us the impression that they have\\nnever been occupied since the erection of the hotel\\na year ago, by any one of greater importance than\\nthe myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in\\nlazy groups to the walls and ceilings. My sym-\\npathy goes out to these ignorant creatures who do\\nnot seem to have strength enough to get away, and\\nseek their nourishment in other quarters.\\nWe find tolerably comfortable accommodations\\nhere, and view things very philosophically on ac-\\ncount of the curious and interesting life by which\\nwe are surrounded. The men and women in their\\nodd costumes are rare pictures. The clothing worn\\nhere is of a style worn hundreds of years ago, and\\nthere is no consciousness on the part of its wearers\\nthat there is anything unusual in its appearance.\\nWhere ignorance is bliss, tis folly to be wise,\\nand it is more than probable that they will continue\\nto wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to\\ncome.\\nMuch of the washing is done in the little canal\\nwhich flows through the town, and this is easily\\naccomplished, as linen is not worn to any great ex-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikendam 185\\ntent, as in other places, and the coarse homespun\\ngarments are cleansed by a very simple process.\\nSheep, grazing upon many of the green pasture\\nlands, form a homelike, peaceful scene which is very\\nattractive. The air is fresh, yet balmy, imparting\\ntone and vigor to the sturdy natives.\\nAt last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon\\nthe earth s surface, wondering if an earthquake or\\nany other startling event will ever happen here to\\nrouse it from its lethargy, and compel it to take its\\nplace in the march of the ages. If not, it will re-\\nmain as of old, a boon to the artist, an infinite\\nsource from which he may draw quaint, ideal and\\nmost original studies of a people and an era whose\\ncounterpart has long since vanished from our\\neveryday world.\\nIn our travels in the northern portion of Holland,\\nand away from the larger cities, as Amsterdam and\\nRotterdam, which are more visited by tourists, we\\nfind that our letters of credit extend over an aston-\\nishing space of time, for a little money goes a long\\nway among these people. The regions seem to be\\ntoo remote for the regular tourist, and as there is no\\ngreat influx of capital from that source, there is no\\ninducement for the people to change their simple\\nand primitive mode of living, hence honesty, fru-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "i86 Odd Bits of Travel\\ngality and contentment reign here, and the visitor\\nmay enjoy to its full extent, the beautiful country\\nand the pure, innocent life of its inhabitants.\\nThe quaint and simple town of Monnikendam\\nlies some fifteen or sixteen miles north of Amster-\\ndam, and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient\\nassociations. Eyes, ears and brain are almost be-\\nwildered by the exquisite strangeness of our sur-\\nroundings. Here are houses with the date of their\\nbirth inscribed over the doorways, and the odd de-\\nsigns of bygone centuries still clinging to thei\u00c2\u00bb\\nwalls.\\nThese ancient dates and the rich beauty of thesP\\naged tenements impress us with a feeling of awe,\\nand we walk softly as we pass the hallowed ground\\nupon which so many lives have risen, passed theif\\nlittle day, then vanished to make place for the next\\nplayers. Of the two hotels which the town sup-\\nports, we choose the oldest, the Hotel de Posthoorn^,\\nwhich derives its name from the fact that at an\\nearly date the building was used as a post office\\nstation. In those days the postman carried a horn,\\nwhich he blew when approaching a station, as a\\nnotice to the townfolk to have their mail ready for\\ncollection, that he might not be detained, as his\\nroute was long and wearisome.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "Hotel de I osthooni. {See page iSb.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikendam 189\\nWe are conducted to the second floor of the hotel\\nby a steep and narrow stairway, which requires\\nmuch ingenuity in the ascent, as the steps are con-\\nstructed at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult\\nto balance one s self upon them. We reach the top\\nas gracefully as possible under the circumstances,\\nand find two pleasant communicating rooms over-\\nlooking the main street. Rooms, beds and all our\\nsurroundings are wonderfully clean, and filled with\\nan atmosphere of the past, which is very charming.\\nThe rates charged here are seven dollars a week for\\neach person, and this includes meals and attend-\\nance: the latter simply a pleasant fiction, with no\\nmeaning whatever.\\nThe sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen\\nof good quality, but emitting such an odor of an-\\ntiquity, that there is no doubt whatever in our\\nminds that they are heirlooms of many generations,\\nand we wish that this genuine, ancient and unpleas-\\nant smell could be scattered abroad, or adulterated\\nin some way, even to the extent of a pair of mod-\\nern sheets, for concentrated age is more attractive\\nin sights than in odors.\\nOur hotel bears the date 1697 upon a fancifully\\ncarved tablet above the middle window, but the\\nStadhuis Tower is still older, dating back to 1592.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "190\\nOdd Bits of Travel\\nThe proprietor, his wife and daughter are pleasant,\\nhospitable people, who make our stay with them,\\nboth comfortable and enjoyable. Before supper we\\nstroll about the town, which consists of a main or\\ncentral avenue, with small narrow streets diverging\\nfrom it. As we walk along, a little crowd, com-\\nposed chiefly of children, follows us closely.\\nThese young people stare at us, and laugh as\\nthough we are a freshly imported menagerie. On\\nour return, we sit in front of the hotel where\\nsome chairs and small tables are placed for the con-\\nvenience of those who wish to rest and sip their\\nglass of beer or genuine Holland gin in the open.\\nThe favorite beverages in Holland are beer, porter\\nand gin, the latter of an excellent quality, and gen-\\nuinely old.\\nWe are soon surrounded by a group of children,\\nwho watch our motions and by words and gestures\\nfreely express their wonder and amusement at the\\nodd-looking stranger people. They seem greatly\\nsurprised that we do not understand their language:\\nnot even such simple phrases as Goeden avond,\\n(Good-evening), or Ja, (Yes), and Nee,\\n(No). When I make them understand that in\\nEnglish yes and no are the same as their ja and\\nnee, they laugh immoderately, and repeat in their", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikedam 191\\nown broad accents, yes and no, as if greatly\\namused.\\nAfter supper, which consists of cold fish, coffee,\\ncheese, boiled potatoes and tea with a private nip\\nof the real ancient Holland gin, we walk out again\\nwithout a guide, to do some shopping. We have\\na funny experience, as we are compelled to resort\\nto pantomime in making the various purchases.\\nEntering a general store in search of candles, we\\nat first ask for them in English: the good-natured\\nshopwoman smiles and shakes her head. I repeat\\nthe word candles, at the same time going through\\nthe motion of striking a match on the counter, and\\nholding it up to the end of my forefinger. This\\nstrange proceeding attracts the attention of a young\\nman and woman, who draw near the counter, fol-\\nlowed by several other members of the family, but\\nI cannot make them comprehend. We then try the\\nFrench language, but this also proves a failure, so\\nwe are obliged to depart without our candles, al-\\nthough I am confident they have them somewhere\\nin the store.\\nScene after scene of this kind is gone through\\nwith in the different shops, and now our curious\\nactions have attracted a large crowd of people who\\nfollow close at our heels, wondering what we will", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "192 Odd Bits of Travel\\ndo next, and thinking, no doubt, tliat we are a very\\ngood kind of free show. Such strange beings rarely\\nvisit their isolated town, and they are certainly en-\\njoying their opportunity to its full extent. When\\nwe stop to look into a shop-window, they stop too,\\nand follow our example like very shadows. The\\nexpression of wonder and merriment depicted on\\nthe countenances of both young and old is a fine\\nstudy for an artist.\\nAs we saunter leisurely along, we espy a clothing\\nstore, which we enter, and find half-a-dozen men\\nlounging about with long clay pipes in their mouths,\\nand their hands in the pockets of their baggy\\ntrousers. Their faces wear a peaceful, contented\\nexpression, which changes to a look of surprise as\\nwe approach them, and they scan our attire, as\\nsomething wholly different from anything to which\\nthey are accustomed. The gaping throng outside\\nbesieges the doorway. As the men still gaze curi-\\nously at us, 1 draw near the one who appears to be\\nthe proprietor of the establishment, and in panto-\\nmime, aided by English, interspersed with a little\\nFrench, ask for a Marken suit of clothes. The man\\nlaughs and looks perplexed; his companions also\\nshake their heads in token that they do not under-\\nstand. With serious countenances and widely-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "De Iloollstraat, Monnikendam. {See page igoi", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikedam 195\\nopened eyes, they follow the motions of my lips\\nand hands. Uttering slowly the words: Marken\\nsuit, I point to my own trousers, coat and vest.\\nTheir eyes follow my hands, first to my trousers,\\nthen to my coat and vest. It is a difficult position\\nbut what a treat to watch their puzzled counte-\\nnances, now smiling, now with a look of actual\\npain in their efforts to understand.\\nAt last my perseverance and their attention are\\nrewarded, and the storekeeper takes from a shelf\\na dusty bundle, and carefully unfolds it. Within\\nthe bundle is a Marken suit: yes, the very kind I\\nwish to possess, an entire woman s dress. I am\\nanxious to purchase it at any reasonable figure.\\nThe garment is passed to us for inspection. We\\nnod in indication that it is just what we desire.\\nNow for the tug of war; the price. Combien?\\nCombien Finally thirty guilders is named as the\\nprice set upon the dress. We motion, Too high,\\nand I point to the ceiling. The six weary men all\\nlook up in the direction of my finger: they smile,\\nand think it is a good joke, and look at me as\\nthough saying: What next? They laugh\\nheartily at my vain endeavors. Alas! How can\\nI make them understand? Fifteen guilders, I\\nsay. The proprietor seems to understand. Nee.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "196 Odd Bits of Travel\\nNee. Ik kan het niet doen. (No. No. I cannot\\ndo it.)\\nAfter long deliberation, still holding the cherished\\nsuit in his hands, he turns to his companions, and\\nseems to ask their opinion. Several shake their\\nheads and utter: Nee. Nee, others say: Ja.\\nJa. One suggests twenty-five guilders as the\\nprice; another twenty guilders. The bargaining\\ngoes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion,\\nwhen to our relief a gentleman enters the shop who\\nunderstands the language of these people. He has\\nlearned from the outsiders that some Americans are\\nin the store trying to buy a suit of clothes. Through\\nthe kindness of this stranger, matters are speedily\\nadjusted, and the sale effected, as he speaks both\\nDutch and English fluently. We purchase the com-\\nplete suit for fifteen guilders, or about six dollars in\\nthe currency of the United States.\\nThese suits are rarely made for sale, but only\\nwhen needed for immediate use. The natives of\\nthe island make them for personal wear, or for each\\nother. Every man and woman generally owns two\\nsuits: one to wear every day, and one for Sundays.\\nAs we move toward the door to take our de-\\nparture, after spending three-quarters of an hour\\nover this transaction, we perceive that the throng", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "Ancient Town of Monnikedam 197\\naround the door has increased in numbers. What\\nan assemblage! And we are the curiosities. I\\ncount them, and find there are thirty men, women\\nand children, all full of excitement at the presence\\nof strangers in Monnikendam. One young girl is\\nso shy and timid, that as we advance toward her on\\nour way out, she starts and runs hurriedly away,\\nand gazes at us from a distance of some twenty\\nfeet, as though we are dangerous animals.\\nWe make several other purchases; partly because\\nwe desire the articles, but chiefly on account of our\\nenjoyment of this novel mode of shopping.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "There is a young man whose walk is all his own. i^See page 211.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "old Customs and\\nQuaint Pictures.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean. I See page 211.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Quaint Pictures*\\nSegars and Tobacco Row Boats Goeden Morgen The\\nZuyder Zee By Candle Light Total Darkness The Town\\nby Night Women and Girls Shoes and Stockings The\\nShuffling Man Streets and Sidewalks The Town Crier\\nThe Daily News A Message to the People Draught Dogs\\nMilkmaids The Barber Shop Drug Stores Horretje\\nA Street Auction Selling Curios They Leave their Shoes\\nat the Door\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An Old Grist Mill\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Holland Draught Girl.\\nN Holland, segars and tobacco of very good\\nquality are sold at low prices: it is not un-\\ncommon to buy two segars for one cent\\n(United States currency) and should you be\\ndetected smoking an article costing more than a\\npenny, you are immediately stamped as a wealthy\\nand extravagant personage. This reputation is\\neasily acquired in a town of such thrifty habits as\\nMonnikendam, and here my fondness for a good\\nsmoke lays me open to both charges.\\nA row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day,\\nif you do your own rowing; with a man to row,\\nthe charge is forty cents. We find it convenient to\\nhire a man, who also serves as guide and inter-\\npreter, and who rows us to many lovely nooks and\\n205", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "2o6 Odd Bits of Travel\\nout-of-the-way spots, which we would otherwise\\nmiss seeing.\\nThe inhabitants of the town are kind and hos-\\npitable, and we are charmed with their good,\\nhonest countenances. We are always greeted with\\na pleasant Goeden morgen, or Goeden avond,\\nor it maybe: Hoe staat het leven? (How are\\nyou when we pass them on the street.\\nThe country about here is principally farm land,\\nwith rich and abundant pasturage. A short distance\\nfrom us is the placid Zuyder Zee, with its shining\\nwaters stretching eastward for miles. From its\\npicturesque banks may be seen boats of every size\\nand kind, from the tiniest row boat to craft of many\\ntons burden, and it is interesting to observe from\\nthis point the busy life upon the water, as produce,\\nfarm implements and merchandise are carried to\\nand fro.\\nAs I sit writing in my room, by the light of a\\nhomemade candle, I now and then pause in my\\noccupation to look around with an ever increasing\\nwonder, at the dark old furniture over which the\\nlight casts a ghostly gleam. The spirit of the past\\nseems lurking in the corners, with their long for-\\ngotten history, and around yonder ancient cupboard\\nand brass trimmed chest of drawers. I can almost", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "Tlie wliole place is a succe,ssi ii iiiHuanit and picturesque liouses.\\n(^See page 2/6.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Quaint Pictures 209\\nfeel upon my shoulder the touch of the hand which\\nhas carried this quaint old candlestick in those olden\\ndays, and in imagination, hear the rustle of her\\ngown as she stands behind me waiting for her own.\\nIt is ten o clock, and I walk to the window and\\ndraw aside the curtain, curious to see the life that is\\nabroad in the town at this hour. To my astonish-\\nment there are no signs of life of any kind. The\\ntown lies in total darkness. There is not a glimmer\\nof light anywhere, save the dim glow from a lantern\\ndangling carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who\\nmoves slowly and quietly along the sidewalk.\\nThere is no other evidence of any living thing.\\nEven the frogs and crickets, which enliven a night\\nscene at home, are not heard here. Dead silence\\nprevails, while\\nNight, sable goddess, from her ebon throne,\\nIn rayless majesty now stretches forth\\nHer leaden sceptre o er a slumbering world.\\nEven the stars are slumbering, or their sparkle has\\nbeen engulfed by this all-devouring darkness. The\\nlight of my candle seems out of harmony with the\\npeaceful repose around me: with a half-guilty feel-\\ning I extinguish it, and wrapping myself in sheets\\nof Holland linen, am soon slumbering with the rest\\nof the world.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "210 Odd Bits of Travel\\nIn the morning, when seated at the breakfast\\ntable, my first question to our host is as to the rea-\\nson for such all-pervading darkness, and the ab-\\nsence of the townspeople from the streets at night.\\nHe tells me that it is so rare for any one to be abroad\\nafter nine o clock in the evening, that the street\\nlamps, of which there are but few, are never\\nlighted. At ten o clock every one is supposed to\\nbe at home and in bed.\\nThe women and girls of this and the neighboring\\ntowns are thrifty and industrious. When resting\\nafter their daily labors, whether at noon or in the\\nevening, they will invariably take from their deep\\nside-pockets a ball of thread or yarn, and with the\\nshort knitting needle, or the long ones of steel, con-\\ntinue their work on an unfinished stocking, cap or\\nother article of wearing apparel.\\nThe prevailing foot-covering for men, women\\nand children is a heavy woolen stocking; this fits\\nthe foot snugly, and protects it from the hardness\\nof the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called.\\nThese shoes are carved from a single block of wood\\nwhen they are worn and shabby they are painted\\nblack, and a strap is placed across the instep. They\\nare of all sizes, but only one style or pattern. In\\nthe larger cities, however, such as Rotterdam, one", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Ouaint Pictures 2 1 1\\ncan obtain from the manufacturers a painted wooden\\nshoe, with buttons and stitches carved upon it as\\nornaments. But this variation is found only in\\nmen s shoes. In Holland the ordinary American\\nslipper is frequently worn by both men and women.\\nThe clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an un-\\npleasant sound, especially when several persons are\\nwalking together, but the ear soon becomes accus-\\ntomed to it, as to all other odd noises. There is a\\nyoung man in this place, who walks with a peculiar\\nshuffle, all his own. He is so strange looking alto-\\ngether that I snap my camera on him one day as he\\ninnocently passes by me. The peculiar sound of his\\nwalk has taught me to know that he is coming long\\nbefore his figure is visible. I sometimes feel like\\ntelling him in the words of Byron, that\\nHe has no singing education,\\nAn ignorant, noteless, timeless, tuneless fellow.\\nThe streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously\\nclean, as the women of each household scrub not\\nonly their sidewalks, but half-way across the street\\nin front of their dwellings. One may thus imagine\\nwhat a charming and inviting place this is for the\\npedestrian.\\nin this peaceful town where the golden rule is not\\nsimply a precept to frame and hang upon the wall,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "212 Odd Bits of Travel\\nit is not necessary to employ officials with such high\\nsounding but meaningless titles as Street Com-\\nmissioner, Director of the Highways, etc., etc.\\nNo, here each individual possesses sufficient honor\\nand self-respect to accomplish his own share of\\nmunicipal work, to the benefit and comfort of the\\nwhole community.\\nThere is one very ancient custom still existing\\nhere which interests and entertains us greatly. This\\nis the old fashion of employing a town crier, who\\nafter beating a brass disk which is suspended by a\\ncord from his shoulder, calls out in a loud, clear\\nvoice, the news of the day, events in foreign lands,\\ntransfers of property, sales and auctions which\\nhave already taken place or are to occur in the near\\nfuture, lost and found articles and the like. For in-\\nstance: he walks a distance of a block or two, then\\nstops in the middle of the street, beats the brass\\ndisk vigorously with a small striker, and casting his\\nhead heavenward, utters the phrases which have\\nbeen prepared and given to him in stereotyped\\ntones. Thus the town receives its news, and the\\ncrier keeps those who never stir from their homes\\nas well as the business men of the city informed of\\nthe most prominent events of their own and other\\ncountries. What better method could be employed", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "A street auction. [See /age 220).", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Quaint Pictures 215\\nin the absence of newspapers The community is\\nkept in touch with the outside world and with its\\nown members by means of this odd and ancient\\ncustom.\\nI have the pleasure of a personal association with\\nthe crier. Our party is so much annoyed by the\\ncontinual staring of the people, who seem unable\\nto become accustomed to our appearance in the\\ntown, and who follow us constantly day and even-\\ning when we walk upon the streets, that I decide\\nto try some means to stop it. The proprietor of\\nthe hotel, at my request, adds another sentence to\\nthe daily bulletin; it runs as follows: The three\\nAmericans now stopping at the Posthoorn Hotel\\nmust not be annoyed by the good people of this\\ntown. It is not good manners to stare at them\\nand follow them, and it is unpleasant to these\\nstrangers.\\nThe day following my request, I listen anxiously\\nfor the voice of the crier, and his appearance in our\\nneighborhood. Here he comes; and the message\\nis rolled forth in sonorous tones. I seek the land-\\nlord and ask him if the notice is to be circulated\\nthroughout the town; and he replies in the affirma-\\ntive. In justice to the inhabitants, 1 must state that\\nthey heed the request, and hereafter go on their way", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "2i6 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwithout undue excitement or comment when we\\nappear among them; much to our own comfort\\nand enjoyment.\\nFew horses are seen upon these streets: wagons\\nare drawn by two, three, or four huge draught\\ndogs, trained for this purpose. Men are also fre-\\nquently harnessed to wagons, as well as women,\\nand sometimes a woman and dog will appear to-\\ngether drawing a load of merchandise.\\nMilk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry\\non their shoulders a strong wooden yoke: from the\\nends of this the milk pails are suspended by ropes.\\nVegetables and other provisions are delivered in the\\nsame manner. The milkmaid passes from door to\\ndoor, rapping on each with the ancient brass\\nknocker, and serving her customer with the milk\\nas it is served with us.\\nThe whole place is a succession of quaint and\\npicturesque houses. The shapes are various, and\\nthe heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a\\ncharming effect as they stand in rows on either side\\nof the street. Each house seems to possess an indi-\\nvidual style of its own, and many are so old that\\nthey lean quite out of the perpendicular.\\nWhile travelling in Holland one is constantly con-\\nfronted with a sign in the form of a wooden arm", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "At Ihc fartliest end of the street stands an old windmill. [See page 2^^.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Quaint Pictures 219\\nstretched from a doorway, with a brass disk sus-\\npended from it containing the words:\\nHier scheeit en snyd men het haar,\\nwhich signifies that here one can be shaved and\\nhave his hair cut: in other words, it is the sign of a\\nbarber, who in America designates his calling by\\nthe gayly-colored pole. The brass disks in front\\nof these places are polished to a high state of\\nbrilliancy, and being suspended so that they swing\\nloosely in the breeze, they cast dazzling reflec-\\ntions in all directions which cannot fail to attract\\nthe attention of the passer-by. Another advertise-\\nment which differs greatly from those in our coun-\\ntry is that of the drug store. While with us huge\\nglass vases and globes of different colors are dis-\\nplayed in the window of the apothecary, in Holland\\na wooden head of a man in great agony, with pro-\\ntruding tongue, indicates that here the sufferer can\\nfind relief and medicine for all his aches and pains.\\nThis head is conspicuously placed over the entrance\\nto the drug store.\\nAnother odd custom in this strange country is\\nthat of placing a large screen called a Horetje in\\nthe front windows of private houses, or on the first\\nfloors. The screen is sometimes shaped like a fan,\\nsometimes it is heart-shaped or oval, and is intended", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "220 Odd Bits of Travel\\nto protect the person seated at the door or window\\nfrom the idle gaze of the pedestrian. Indeed it\\noften hides a charming picture of maiden grace and\\nmodesty.\\nOne day as I am sitting at the door of the hotel\\nattempting to sketch some of the picturesque houses\\nin the neighborhood, with many wondering eyes\\ndirected toward my canvas, I notice a crowd of\\npeople beginning to gather a short distance off. I\\ndo not see the centre of attraction, but seizing my\\ncamera, which is my constant companion, together\\nwith pencils and brushes, which are as close friends\\nas Robinson Crusoe and his man Friday, I hasten to\\nthe scene of action, feeling that probably something\\nis going to happen which will add a new page to\\nmy experience. It is true: something interesting is\\nabout to take place; and that is a street auction, a\\ncommon occurrence in this town. The auctioneer,\\nperched above the heads of his audience upon an\\nold wooden box, is calling out his sales in Dutch.\\nThe articles which he is about to dispose of to the\\nhighest bidders are dress goods, linen and wearing\\napparel. Much persuasion is necessary before a\\nsale is effected, as the strong desire of the customers\\nto obtain bargains is met by an equally strong de-\\ntermination on the part of the auctioneer to sell his", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town. {See page 224.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Ouaint Pictures 22 :i\\nstock at good prices. A funny sort of a seesaw is\\ntile result, wiiich is the source of much merriment\\namong the spectators. I join in some of these out-\\nbursts from pure sympathy, as most of the time I\\ndo not understand either the jokes or allusions. A\\nlively business is frequently carried on at these\\nauctions; but whether the purchaser really obtains\\nmore for his money than by the ordinary method of\\nbuying I cannot ascertain. I presume they think\\nthey have some advantage, or they would not flock\\nto the sales in such numbers.\\nAn active branch of business here is the sale of\\ncurios, antique silverware, china, gold, jewels, and\\nbric-a-brac; in fact ancient articles of every descrip-\\ntion.\\nAs we walk down the Main street, admiring the\\nclean highway and lovely old houses on either side\\nof us, we observe many pairs of wooden shoes\\nlying in front of the different residences near the\\ndoorways, and upon inquiry learn that when one\\nperson goes to call upon another, he leaves his\\nheavy wooden shoes outside the door, and enters in\\nhis stocking feet.\\nAt the farthest end of the street stands an old\\nwindmill with its huge arms moving slowly and\\nregularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "224\\nOdd Bits of Travel\\nblows across the Zuyder Zee. As we draw nearer,\\nwe see that it is an ancient grist mill, and here is the\\nowner, who invites us in to view the interior, and\\nwith whom we have a pleasant chat in our own\\ncolloquial style, adopted since our arrival in this\\ncity. Dozens of windmills can be seen from this\\npoint, and, as I have already said, they are used for\\nmany different purposes. The foundation story is\\nthe home of the family, and in a number of these\\nyou will find quaint, delightful pictures of old\\nDutch interiors, with their odd chairs and dressers,\\nancient clocks and brass bound chests, old-fashioned\\nchina, and tiled fireplaces.\\nThere is a beautifully shaded walk just outside\\nthe town, encircling the whole city. Large trees\\nhere protect Monnikendam from the heavy wind\\nand rain storms which come from the Zuyder Zee,\\nwhen old Neptune rises in one of his dreadful\\ntantrums. We enjoy this lovely walk, but what\\ndo we not enjoy in this town which surely has\\nbound us by some magic spell; for the longer we\\nstay here, the more loath we are to leave its bor-\\nders.\\nOne day we take a boat and direct our course\\nalong one of the canals, on which there is consider-\\nable traffic. Here we behold the pitiable sight of", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "Old Customs and Quaint Pictures 225\\ntwo young girls, harnessed like mules, and attached\\nto a lead rope, pulling inch by inch, and foot by\\nfoot, a large canal-boat filled with merchandise.\\nI can imagine no harder work than this, for the\\npoor creatures are exposed to the intense heat of\\nthe sun, with no protection against its direct rays,\\nand they have a long slow journey before them, ere\\nthe heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by\\nfoot shall reach its destination. The toil of the fac-\\ntory girl in America is play when compared with\\nthat of the draught girl in Holland.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "Land and water. [See age 224.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "A good road for the bicycle. (See page 2^g.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making Distnd*\\nA Cheese making Country Edam Cheese A Picturesque Inn\\nAn Interesting Interior A Thrifty Farmer At Sunrise In\\nthe Cow Stable\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Pretty Maid\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Stall and Parlor\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The\\nCheese Room The Process of Making Cheese I Have\\nListened and Listened A Trip to Volendam A Fine\\nCountry Road A Charming Day\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Muzzled Dogs The Only\\nStreet A Multitude of Children Gay Decorations A United\\nPeople As a Hen and Her Brood Their Wealth is Health\\nIn Sunday Dress Stalwart Men and Sturdy Women A\\nHigher Type I have enough Fishermen The Anchor-\\nage A Volendam Suit.\\n0-DAY we take the train for Edam, of\\nworld-wide fame as a cheese-making cen-\\ntre. This town, situated about five miles\\nnorth of Monnikendam, abounds in beau-\\ntiful old trees which protect it from the heat of the\\nsun, and render it very attractive. All of these\\ntowns seem to possess individual interest, and the\\ntraveller is constantly surprised in this region by\\nnew and unexpected scenes: but the imprint of\\ntruth and honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in\\nevery town, village and settlement in Holland is ob-\\nserved as the common bond of union, and leads us\\n233", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "234 ^its o^ Travel\\nto understand the happiness and prosperity for\\nwhich this region Is justly celebrated.\\nIt is hardly necessary to say that many cheese\\nfactories are scattered throughout this section of the\\ncountry. At one of these factories, located on the\\nbank of the canal, we see a large barge being\\nloaded with five thousand of the delicious Edam\\ncheeses, intended for foreign markets. We stop\\nfor rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on\\nthe way. This house is a fine subject for an artist.\\nThe room in which our meal is served is in itself a\\nmasterpiece. The floor, composed of large stone\\nflags, is spotlessly clean, and the walls are covered\\nwith odd pieces of china, evidently associated with\\nfamily history: the woodwork is as white as soap\\nand sand can make it, and the windows are as clear\\nas crystal. In a corner stands the old Dutch clock,\\nwith the moon, now nearly full, represented above\\nits time-worn face, and on one side is the dark\\ndresser, rich in ancient plates, and other quaint old-\\nfashioned crockery. The table at which we sit is\\ncovered with a snov/y cloth of homespun linen, and\\nthe blue and white dishes with the stories upon\\nthem which have been thus told for unknown ages\\nalmost charm us into forgetfulness of our luncheon\\nitself, until a healthy cheerful country girl appears,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 235\\nand with deft movements and smiling face places\\nbefore us the appetizing cheese, delicious bread,\\nfreshly churned butter, and new milk as well as\\nbuttermilk. For this but a trifling charge is made,\\nbut we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old\\nDutch interior, the sight of these brass-bound chests\\nand claw-footed chairs, and the picture of the cheer-\\nful Holland maid are worth many times the cost of\\nthe meal.\\nWe are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty\\nfarmer whose home is about a mile from Monniken-\\ndam. This well-to-do personage owns a large dairy\\nfarm, and learning that we are interested in this\\nsubject, invites us to be present at sunrise to wit-\\nness the process of cheese-making. An early hour\\nfinds us on the way, and in good time a rap on the\\ndoor of the farmhouse brings us into the presence\\nof a bright middle-aged Dutch vrow, who with a\\ncherry Goeden morgen bids us enter. We are\\nfirst ushered into the parlor, which is a room of con-\\nsiderable size, immaculately clean, with comfortable\\nchairs and sofas placed in various corners, and a\\nsupply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks\\nthat fill our hearts with longing. In a few mo-\\nments we are invited to the adjoining room, which\\nwe suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room, but", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "236 Odd Bits of Travel\\nto our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable, a\\nspacious, well lighted apartment, about seventy feet\\nlong and fifteen feet wide. A row of stalls runs\\nalong one side of the room, and here stand as many\\nof the genuine, full blooded Holstein cattle. They\\nare handsome creatures, looking as sleek and clean\\nas those which take the premiums at the state and\\ncounty fairs at home. Here they stand, patiently\\nawaiting the appearance of the milkmaid; not how-\\never the milkmaid, all forlorn of nursery rhyme,\\nbut in truth\\nThe pretty maid with dress so clean,\\nWith shining pail and face serene,\\nWho milks the cows with happy smile.\\nAnd sings her joyous songs the while.\\nThe stalls are as sweet, clean and orderly as is the\\nparlor which we have just left, and snowy curtains\\nhang above the windows over them, the only ap-\\nparent difference between the stable and the parlor\\nbeing that the cattle stand upon fresh, fragrant\\nstraw, instead of a clean carpet. From the stable\\nwe are conducted to an adjoining building, which\\nis the cheese factory, and to the room in which are\\nassembled the farmer, his wife and two servants.\\nEverything is in readiness: the fresh milk is poured\\ninto a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 237\\nand which is capable of holding about twenty gal-\\nlons: a small quantity of rennet is put into the milk,\\nand in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is\\npassed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass.\\nThese sieves or curd-knives have handles by which\\nthey are held while the blades are drawn from side\\nto side, cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes.\\nThen the farmer s wife rolls up her sleeves, ex-\\nposing to view a pair of round, shapely arms which\\nwould be the pride of a city belle, and dips both\\nhands and arms deep in the floating mass. She\\npresses, and kneads and rolls this thickening body\\nuntil it assumes the consistency of dough: the whey\\nis bluish in color, and as thin as water. This is\\ndrained off, and water is poured over the mass sev-\\neral times, until the cheese is thoroughly cleansed\\nof all the floating particles. It is now ready to be\\nplaced in five pound moulds made of wood: the\\nmoulds are put into a powerful press which shapes\\nthe cheese, and extracts any lurking remnants of\\nwater. After about eight hours in the press, the\\ncheeses are salted and placed on shelves to dry.\\nNow for a month it is necessary to turn them every\\nday, and after that, every other day for a month.\\nThey are also sponged with lukewarm water and\\ndried in the open air, and the final process is a thin", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "238 Odd Bits of Travel\\ncoat of linseed oil. It is a tedious operation; great\\ncare is necessary to keep the chamber in which they\\nare shelved perfectly clean and dry, and of an even\\ntemperature. At last the articles are ready for ship-\\nment to all parts of the world. This is an enormous\\nindustry: in North Holland alone, we are informed\\nthat twenty-six million pounds of cheese are pro-\\nduced per annum.\\nThe portion of the process witnessed by us oc-\\ncupies about an hour and a half: these cheeses are\\nworth from the farmer s hands fifty or sixty cents\\napiece.\\nThere is a little boy ten or twelve years of age\\nabout here who seems to derive great pleasure from\\nour society, although he cannot understand one\\nword of English. One day, after sitting quietly for\\na long time, while we are conversing together, he\\nrepeats impatiently in his own language: I have\\nlistened and listened to your talk, and I cannot un-\\nderstand one word. I do not think you are talking\\nsense at all.\\nAlas, poor child! You are not the only one who\\nhas listened and listened, trying in vain to find a\\ngleam of intelligence in the foreigner s gibberish.\\nIgnorance of the language of a nation causes\\nit to appear to one like a vast sealed volume,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 239\\nwhich he knows only by the pictures on the title\\npage.\\nI have written at length of the Island of Marken,\\none of the most noted of the Dead cities of Hol-\\nland, and now, let us take a peep at the sister city\\nof Volendam, which lies four miles north of Mon-\\nnikendam. As we do not wish to visit this place\\nwhen all the men are off on their fishing expedi-\\ntions, we choose for our excursion a clear bright\\nSunday, a day on which the men will surely be at\\nhome, and their sea horses at anchor in the harbor.\\nProcuring a large carriage and a powerful horse,\\na difficult thing to obtain at short notice, we direct\\nour driver to jog along slowly that we may enjoy\\nthe beauty of the surrounding country. We drive\\nover a fine road, level and well ballasted; a good\\nroad for the bicycle: in fact all the roads of Hol-\\nland, city and country, are kept in perfect condi-\\ntion. It is a charming day, and the balmy atmos-\\nphere and the refreshing breeze which sweeps over\\nthe Zuyder Zee have a soothing effect upon mind\\nand body. This would be a great country for in-\\nvalids, and those who seek rest and change from\\nthe demands of fashion and social life. There is\\nno fashion here; only pure air and lovely peaceful\\nbeauty everywhere, with good wholesome food", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "240 Odd Bits of Travel\\nand kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the\\nweary stranger. Added to this is the very moder-\\nate cost of a sojourn in this delightful region.\\nOccasionally we pass a small cart or wagon\\ndrawn by dogs, the driver a young girl who is\\ncomfortably seated in the vehicle, now and then\\nadministering to the animals, by means of a short\\nstick, reminders not to lag on the way. These\\ndogs are not the ordinary house dog which is seen\\nin our country; but are powerful and muscular\\ncreatures, as perhaps I have already said, and so\\ncross and savage when roused, that to secure the\\nsafety of the persons near them they are closely\\nmuzzled. Being ignorant of their peculiar traits,\\none day while admiring a couple of fine draught\\ndogs which are resting near a wagon, I approach\\nthem too closely; my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled\\nas one of them springs viciously at me, striking me\\nheavily on the chest, and he certainly would have\\nchipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body\\nhad his muzzle not prevented this catastrophe.\\nHereafter I keep a distance of many feet between\\nme and these animals, and others of their species.\\nAfter a lovely drive of an hour, we arrive at the\\nold town which is as wonderful and interesting as\\nits sister city. It too is built upon the banks of the", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "Tliis stiange looking highway runs lengthwise thiougli the town.\\n{Seepage 243.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 243\\nZuyder Zee. We stand upon the only street in the\\nplace, which in appearance resembles the back\\nbone of a whale, with small brick houses on either\\nside. This strange looking highway runs length-\\nwise through the town. The street is narrow:\\nhorses and dogs are never seen upon it, but there\\nare hundreds of children, who gather in great\\nthrongs around our horse, wondering at the strange\\nanimal, and declaring him to be a huge dog, for\\nmany of them have never seen a horse before. Our\\nappearance is also a great event to them, and the\\nvisit creates as much excitement on one side as the\\nother. It is a red letter day for both the towns-\\npeople and ourselves.\\nThe houses are roofed with red tiles, which ex-\\nhibit many different shapes and styles, and we per-\\nceive numerous flags floating from the windows,\\nand decorations of gay bunting. Upon asking the\\nreason of this festive appearance in the isolated and\\nusually quiet city, we are informed that they are in\\nhonor of a wedding which is to take place within a\\nfew days. A wedding in this town is an occasion\\nof great rejoicing, and every household enters into\\nthe spirit of the entertainment with enthusiasm, as\\nthe whole community resembles one large family,\\nand from the least to the greatest, they are all well", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "244 Travel\\nknown to each other. The affairs of one are the\\naffairs of all, hence a single marriage becomes the\\nfestive occasion of the entire population. This is\\nnot strange when one recollects that the people\\nhave no other means of entertainment, such as\\ntheatres, concert halls or libraries, whist or euchre\\nparties. They have nothing save the individual hap-\\npenings in the domestic lives of the different fam-\\nilies.\\nA woman whose children are sitting quietly upon\\nthe curb stone near us, looks hurriedly around the\\ndoor of her house, and seeing the commotion which\\nour arrival excites, calls anxiously for her kids\\nto come to her protecting arms, in mortal fear lest\\none of her brood should be carried off by these\\nstrange and unexpected visitors. As I look around,\\nand behold the robust and muscular physiques of\\nboth men and women, I think any one would be\\ndaring indeed who would attempt to carry off a\\nchild or any other possession from these people in\\nopposition to their wills.\\nThe women and children here are richly endowed\\nwith the blessings of health and strength. The\\nwhole population of thirteen hundred people em-\\nploy but one doctor, who has time to grow rusty in\\nhis profession, so few are the demands upon his", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "The hous 3 are roofed with red tiles. (^See page 24J.]", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 247\\nskill. I suggest to him on the occasion of a meet-\\ning, that he adopt the Chinese plan of remunera-\\ntion, that is that the people pay him an annuity as\\nlong as they are well, and that when they are sick,\\nthey be entitled to his services gratis.\\nThe natives of Holland are not inclined to ex-\\ncesses of any kind, and they thus enjoy the full\\nbenefit of naturally sound constitutions, and are\\nable to transmit to their children perfect, unim-\\npaired health. As we stroll along this backbone of\\na street without name or pretensions, we stop at\\nmany of the doorways to talk with the residents,\\nand soon become impressed with the hospitality of\\nthe people, who are arrayed in all the glory of their\\nSunday finery, and appear at the fronts of their\\nhomes happy in the consciousness that they as well\\nas all their surroundings are in apple pie order.\\nWe are as much interested in them as they are in\\nus, and that is saying a great deal.\\nThe great, stalwart fellows with their broad\\nshoulders and rugged faces are indeed true types of\\nall that is brave and manly. A loose shirt and\\nbaggy trousers, with a small cloth cap is the or-\\ndinary costume of the men, many of whom wear\\nwooden shoes; leather slippers are also worn. The\\nwomen are equally brave and strong in appearance,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "248 Odd Bits of Travel\\nand as large in proportion as the men. Tlieir sturdy\\nforms and healthy faces are rare models for the\\nartist s brush. Their dress is of homespun linen,\\ngenerally dyed blue, and is composed of several\\npieces; sometimes these are of various colors com-\\nbined in a picturesque and effective arrangement.\\nThe head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becom-\\ning: indeed many of our fashionable belles might\\ngreatly improve their appearance by adopting the\\ncharming coiffure of these pretty and apparently un-\\nconscious Holland girls and women. These people\\nrepresent a higher type of humanity than the in-\\nhabitants of Marken: their intelligence and refine-\\nment are more marked, but they have the sunny\\ntemperaments and contented dispositions character-\\nistic of the Hollanders, and though ignorant of the\\ncustoms of the outside world, and limited in their\\nlives to a narrow sphere, they are a happy and\\nsatisfied people. They seem in that happy state of\\nmind, so rarely possessed, in which they can say\\nhave enough. Happiness consists not in possess-\\ning much, but in being content with what we pos-\\nsess. He who wants little always has enough.\\nThese men, like those in the neighboring Island\\nof Marken, obtain their livelihood by fishing. They\\nleave their homes in small boats or yachts every", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "A Dutch Cheese-making District 249\\nMonday morning, and do not return until late\\nSaturday night, allowing them but one day in the\\nweek, Sunday, to spend in their homes. Close by\\nus is the anchorage, so called from the fact that\\ndozens of fishing boats anchor within its harbor. 1\\nsuppose that fully a hundred of these yachts are\\nlying there now, and, shifting from side to side as\\nthe wind stirs the waters of the Zuyder Zee, present\\nthe appearance of a city of masts in a hurricane.\\nAs we wander about it occurs to me that 1 should\\nlike to become the possessor of one of the odd and\\npicturesque suits of clothing worn here; especially\\none of the better kind of the men s suits, for I know\\nthat this quaint and ancient dress would be interest-\\ning to a number of friends far away in dear America.\\nFilled with the idea, I stop many of the natives, and\\nthrough our good and genial friend Mr. L inquire\\nif it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit\\nof clothing, and suggest that if they have none\\nthemselves to sell, perhaps one of their comrades\\nwould part with a suit in exchange for my bright\\nguilders. We talk to a great many men, but re-\\nceive the same answer from all: that is that each\\npossesses but two suits; a best or Sunday suit, and\\na week-day or fishing suit, neither of which it is\\npossible to sell for any price that I may offer. I ask", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "2^0 Odd Bits of Travel\\nagain if there is not some one else among the men\\nwho may be willing to oblige me, and learn that\\nmost of the men and women are in church, but that\\nif we will wait until the service is over, we can talk\\nwith them, and may succeed in our quest.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights and the\\nOldest Town on the Rhine.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces. [See /ta^e z^t.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on\\nthe Rhine*\\nChurch is out The Promenade Every man is a Volume An\\nOld Suit His Sunday Clothes Let him have it An\\nObedient Son The Silver Buttons The Last Straw An\\nUncommon Action The Hotel An Artist s Resort An Un-\\nfinished Painting Good-bye The Ancient City of Cologne\\nThe Cathedral\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Within the Dom \u00e2\u0080\u0094A Wonderful Collec-\\ntion Foundation of the Town History Vicissitudes Pub-\\nlic Gardens Eau de Cologne The Palace of Bruhl.\\nITHIN a short time we perceive a large\\nnumber of people slowly advancing in\\nour direction. Church is over, and it is\\ncustomary after the service for every\\none to promenade up and down this street. Here\\nfriends and relatives greet each other, exchange\\nitems of local interest and have their little gossips\\nover family affairs. The sight is one long to be re-\\nmembered. The round weather-beaten faces of\\nthe men, as they roll along in true sailor fashion,\\nthe merry chattering women and girls in their\\npicturesque costume, the children running hither\\nand thither, and the gayly decorated houses that line\\nthe long street are worthy the brush of an artist.\\n255", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "256 Odd Bits of Travel\\nTruly these people seem to practice the Golden\\nRule, for no one appears to be thinking of himself,\\nbut every one cares for the comfort and happiness\\nof his family, friends or neighbors. The delicate\\nlace caps of the women frame smiling faces, and\\nthe maidens in their quaint homespun gowns look\\nas though they are a part of a play at one of our\\ntheatres. As the congregation draws nearer, we\\nhalt before the foremost group, and having attracted\\ntheir attention by our novel appearance, ask through\\nour friend Mr. L the oft-repeated question\\nabout the suit of Volendam clothes, which we are\\nanxious to carry home to show our friends in\\nAmerica. In an instant they all shake their heads\\nin the negative, looking very serious at the idea of\\nsuch a proposition. Their manly and straightfor^\\nward manner charms me. I look into the open\\ncountenances, in which there is much individuality,\\nand say to myself: it is as true here as in the great\\ncities of the world that Every man is a volume if\\nyou know how to read him. There is a story in the\\nheart of each one of these sturdy fishermen, whether\\nit has seen the light of day or not, and many a no-\\nble deed and heroic action that in another town\\nwould receive a medal of honor, or at least the ap-\\nplause of the public, passes here as a common inci-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the foremost group.\\nSee page 2^6.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 259\\ndent of everyday life. These people do not live\\nfor show: the only medals which they wear, and\\nwhich they transmit to their children are the records\\nof pure, honest lives which are proudly handed\\ndov/n from one generation to another.\\nMeanwhile I stand before them watching the\\nvarying expressions and wondering if there is any\\nprospect of obtaining my desire. At last one man\\nsays hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home\\nthat he no longer wears, and if we will accompany\\nhim to his house, a few doors away, he will show it\\nto us. We turn and follow him, and a score or\\nmore of the people follow us. What must an old\\nsuit look like in this thrifty community where the\\nmen and women never discard anything until it is\\nutterly hopeless as regards service\\nA suit which one of these is willing to dispose of\\nmust indeed be a peculiar object. I wonder if it\\nhas that ancient and fish-like smell, described by\\nShakespeare, The fates forbid! Perhaps it is a\\nrelic of a beloved father or grandfather, handed\\ndown as a family heirloom. We enter the house,\\nstill surrounded by curious spectators, and our\\nobliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-\\nwrapped bundle, which upon being opened dis-\\ncloses a worn and aged suit: unfortunately its age", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "26o Odd Bits of Travel\\ndoes not add to its beauty or value as in the cases\\nof old masterpieces in art, as a painting by Murillo\\nor Rembrandt. The clothes are old, dirty, and\\nfaded, and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman,\\nbut they do not fail to serve their purpose, for\\nwhile this young athlete holds them out, with an\\nexpression of pride and pleasure, a sudden thought\\nfills me with hope. The suit which this young\\nman wears is of the highest type of the Volendam\\nfashion, and is quite new. The flannel blouse with\\nits gay undervest showing at the chest, and the\\nbaggy brown velveteen trousers form an ideal\\nspecimen of the costume of these people. I must\\nhave this suit. No other will answer my purpose.\\nWithout preliminaries, I boldly propose to him to\\nsell me the suit he wears, and put on the old one\\nuntil he can procure another. His countenance\\nfalls, and with a look of positive fear, he draws\\nback, shaking his head and repeating: Nee. Nee.\\nNee.\\nThen he moves farther away, as though in terror\\nlest I then and there strip him of his garments. He\\ncannot sell the suit, he says, especially as the wed-\\nding festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon\\nto take place. In a corner of the room, quietly\\nsmoking a clay pipe, sits the old father, watching", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 261\\nwithout a word the little drama taking place before\\nhim. As the boy reiterates his refusal, the man\\ntalks to him in expostulatory tones, and as we\\nlearn, says: The gentleman from America is a\\ngood man. Let him have the suit: you shall have\\nanother. At this advice the son, though looking\\nrather sulky, yields, and withdrawing to the adjoin-\\ning room, exchanges the suit he wears for the old\\none, and returns with the desire of my heart rolled\\nup and wrapped in a clean paper. The evidence of\\ngood will on the part of the parent, and the obedi-\\nence of the son charm me even more than the pos-\\nsession of the coveted garments. The boy is a\\nnoble lad. As we are about leaving, I suddenly\\nespy the silver coin buttons which are such an or-\\nnament to the dress, and which are considered a\\nmark of distinction, when worn by old or young.\\nThey are rare and valuable decorations, being but-\\ntons made of coins, and held together by a link, as\\nour sleeve-buttons. They are worn in the bands\\nof the trousers and shirts, serving the purpose of\\nsuspenders.\\nThe coins are brilliantly polished and present a\\nstriking appearance. They are generally heirlooms,\\nand some of them are of very ancient date.\\nIn general they are cherished as treasures beyond", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "262 Odd Bits of Travel\\nprice these worn by the boy are exceedingly rare,\\nand are more than a hundred years old, having be-\\nlonged to his great-grandfather. The outer and\\nlarger coins are three guilder pieces, the smaller\\nones one guilder.\\nTo ask for these is indeed the last straw, and\\nwhen the father requests his son to put them in the\\nbundle with the clothing, he bursts into tears, and\\nhis hands tremble as he gives them to me.\\nFor this final test of obedience I thank him heart-\\nily, and bestow upon him a liberal reward for the\\nsacrifice, together with much praise. As he looks\\nat the guilders with which I have filled his hand,\\nhis countenance brightens, and the rainfall is\\nchanged into radiant sunshine. The neighbors\\nlook on this scene with surprise, and many of them\\ndeclare that this is a very uncommon occurrence in\\nVolendam, as they have never known any one\\nheretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a for-\\neigner. It is unnecessary to say that I also value\\nthe coins beyond price, and treasure them for their\\nassociation, and the interesting picture which they\\nnever fail to bring before me.\\nThere is but one hotel in the place, and thither\\nwe resort. It is a small building without preten-\\nsions, containing about ten rooms, of no great size.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "Every man is a volume if you know how to read him. {^See J age 2jO.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 265\\nbut clean and comfortable. We learn that board\\nand accommodations may be had here for four guil-\\nders (one dollar) a day. This hotel has entertained\\nartists from all parts of the world. The good-na-\\ntured landlord will do everything in his power to\\nmake his guests comfortable. In the general sitting-\\nroom or parlor, there is abundant evidence that\\nthese efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful\\npaintings presented to him by some of the most\\nfamous artists of our day. He is a loyal upholder\\nof art and artists. His daughter, a fresh looking\\nmaiden, is so much pleased when I say that I too,\\nam an artist and photographer, that she insists upon\\ntaking me up to the third floor to see the fine view\\nfrom the v/indows which overlook the Zuyder Zee.\\nShe also shows me a room which was fitted up for\\na lady artist from New York. Here is an unfinished\\npicture upon the easel, of an old Volendam woman,\\nin her fancy cap and bright colored homespun cos-\\ntume.\\nThis secluded spot offers many attractions for\\nboth brush and camera in interesting studies of\\nfigures and landscape, as well as charming water\\nscenes. We would gladly spend a longer time\\namid these delightful pictures, but it is impossible,\\nso we take our departure amid a hundred good", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "266 Odd Bits of Travel\\nwishes, and as we drive away, the inhabitants who\\nhave gathered from all parts of the town to see the\\nqueer Americans, call after us: Goeden dag, and\\nTot weerziens, (Until we meet again). A dozen\\nor more children run by the side of the carriage\\nshouting and laughing for a considerable distance.\\nAnd so we bid farewell to a hearty and attractive\\npeople and their quaint surroundings.\\nLet us take a somewhat hasty glance at Cologne,\\nthe oldest city on the Rhine, and one of the largest\\ntowns in the Rhenish Province of Prussia. We\\ncannot afford to miss this town, were it only on\\naccount of the great Cathedral whose lofty towers\\nrise heavenward to a height of five hundred and\\ntwelve feet. How one longs to find himself within\\nthese sacred walls, to stand and gaze upon the\\nwondrous arches, pillars, and dome, the stained\\nglass and statues, the frescoes and carving, the work\\nof an endless succession of artists and artisans.\\nNext to St. Peter s at Rome, this Cathedral is the\\nlargest church in the world. It stands upon the old\\nRoman camping ground, and more than six centu-\\nries have passed since its foundations were laid. The\\nname of its architect is unknown, and even the\\noriginal designs have been forgotten. Its interior is\\nfour hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "Goeden dag. Tot weerziens. {See pao e 266.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 269\\nand forty feet broad. The portion appropriated to\\ndivine service covers an area of seventy thousand\\nsquare feet. It is useless to attempt to describe this\\nvast structure whose buttresses, turrets, gargoyles,\\ncanopies and tracery are innumerable and bewilder-\\ning. The Gothic arches and countless pillars form\\na grand perspective. There are seven chapels\\nwhich present a wealth of paintings, and relics.\\nIn the Chapel of the Three Magi is a marvellous\\ncasket of crystal, whose cover is set with precious\\nstones, which is said to contain the skulls of Caspar,\\nMelchior and Balthazar, the three Wise Men from\\nthe East who followed the star to the cradle of the\\ninfant Christ.\\nIn the great treasury of the Cathedral are untold\\ntreasures. Here are silver censers, paintings set in\\ndiamonds, shrines of silver, and rare and priceless\\nrelics of every description, besides gold and silver\\nchalices, fonts, and other church vessels, and a col-\\nlection of magnificent vestments.\\nMany are the vicissitudes through which this won-\\nderful structure has passed, since its commencement\\nin 1248. At times it seemed abandoned to ruin,\\nthen again the work was taken up and vast sums of\\nmoney contributed, and the masterpiece of Gothic\\narchitecture was carried on toward completion, un-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "270 Odd Bits of Travel\\ntil once more the money was exhausted. It seems\\nas though the old legend of the architect who sold\\nhis soul to the devil in exchange for the plan of the\\nedifice must have some foundation, for tradition re-\\nlates that Satan was finally outwitted by the archi-\\ntect, and in revenge vowed that the Cathedral\\nshould never be finished, and the architect s name\\nbe forgotten. Immense fortunes have been ex-\\npended upon it by monarchs and others of the faith-\\nful. The great southern portal alone cost half a\\nmillion dollars: the bells in the south tower, the\\nlargest of which was cast in 1874, from the metal\\nof French guns, weighs twenty-five tons. The\\ncombined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are required\\nto set it in motion. The next two in point of size,\\ncast in 1447 and 1448, weigh respectively eleven\\nand six tons. The magnificent stained glass win-\\ndows were contributed by famous and royal donors,\\nsuch as the Emperor Frederick III,, Archbishop Von\\nDaun, Archbishop Von Hessen, King Lewis I. of\\nBavaria, Emperor William I., and many others. A\\nnumber of these were executed as far back as 1508.\\nFew structures can compete with this in beauty^\\ngrace and elegance of form. How solemn is the\\natmosphere within these ancient walls! How im-\\npressive the picture of this apparently boundless in-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 271\\nterior! In one of the great pillars is a flight of one\\nhundred steps, which leads to a gallery extending\\nacross the transept, and still nearly forty steps\\nhigher one reaches the gallery which makes the\\ntour of the whole Cathedral, and upon this one has a\\nbeautiful view of the city of Cologne, the Rhine and\\nthe surrounding country. Within the church there\\nis a corresponding gallery, from which the visitor\\nmay observe the interior decorations, and from the\\nloftiest gallery of all, there is a vast and delightful\\npanorama which includes river and country as far\\nas the eye can see. What can be more beautiful\\nthan this scene? Where can one find a grander,\\nmore solemn atmosphere than within these walls\\nwhere the spirits and the hands of men have worked\\nfor ages Where can he experience more lofty as-\\npirations toward\\nThe glorious Author of the universe\\nWho reins the minds, gives the vast ocean bounds,\\nAnd circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds\\nThe city of Cologne was founded by the Ubii at\\nthe time when they were compelled by Agrippa to\\nmigrate from the right to the left bank of the Rhine,\\n(b. c. 38). In A. D. 51, Agrippina, daughter of Ger-\\nmanicus, and mother of Nero, founded here a colony\\nof Roman veterans which at first was called Colonia", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "272 Odd Bits of Travel\\nAgrippinensis, and afterward Colonia Claudia\\nAgrippina. In 308 Constantine the Great began a\\nstone bridge over the Rhine to Deutz. From the end\\nof the fifth century Cologne belonged to the Franks\\nand was long occupied by the Ripuarian kings.\\nCharlemagne raised the bishopric which had been\\nfounded here in the fourth century to an archbish-\\nopric, the first archbishop being the imperial chap-\\nlain Hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church,\\nand presented to it a valuable library which still\\nexists.\\nThe noble city has passed through many vicis-\\nsitudes, and it was not until after 181 5 under Prus-\\nsian rule that it began to enjoy a degree of permanent\\nprosperity. The rapid progress of its steamboat\\nand railway systems, and the enterprise of the citi-\\nzens, many of whom possess great wealth, have\\ncombined to make Cologne the centre of the Rhenish\\ntrade, and one of the most considerable commercial\\ncities in Germany.\\nThe town is built with long narrow streets curv-\\ning in semicircles toward the river. Its sidewalks\\nhave the peculiarity of frequently dwindling away\\nuntil only a few feet in width. The great Cathe-\\ndral tower may be seen for miles, reaching far above\\nthe surrounding buildings. Cologne is a city of", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 273\\nlegends and relics: old and historic buildings dating\\nback many centuries are scattered in all directions,\\nand here the visionary, the lover of myth and legend,\\ncan find abundant food for his imagination. The\\ngreat and valued possessions of the city are the\\nbones of the eleven thousand virgins. This is the\\nlegend: Fourteen hundred years ago, St. Ursula\\nand eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage\\nto Rome, and returning were all slain by the Huns.\\nTheir bones were gathered together and brought to\\nCologne, where they were buried, and later the\\nchurch of St. Ursula, now nearly nine hundred\\nyears old, was built over their tomb. Within this\\nchurch the bones of the virgins are enclosed in stone\\ncaskets, with apertures through which they may\\nbe seen. The skulls are covered with needlework\\nand ornamented with pearls and precious stones.\\nAmong other relics, is also to be found here the\\nalabaster vase or rather one of the vases, in which\\nthe Saviour turned the water into wine at the mar-\\nriage in Cana. The vase or jar is evidently a very\\nancient article: it is much cracked, and one handle\\nis broken off. There are many points of interest in\\nthis old city, for here are museums, gardens, gal-\\nleries and churches, and always the picturesque\\nriver with its countless views and pleasure trips.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "274 Odd Bits of Travel\\nIf one is weary of these legendary stories, or even\\nof sightseeing itself, let him rest with me in one of\\nthe many public gardens, listening to the charming\\nmusic of a good orchestra.\\nThere are skilled musicians in these gardens, and\\ntheir selections are always well rendered. No loud\\nor idle conversation is indulged in during these re-\\ncitals. Should any such breach of good manners\\noccur, the transgressors are requested to observe\\nthe rule of the garden, and if the offence is re-\\npeated, they are ejected from the premises. The\\nGermans, being such lovers of good music, tolerate\\nno other in their gardens. There is no admission\\nfee, but the expenses are supposed to be met by the\\nsale of beer, wine, pretzels and Frankfurt sausages.\\nBefore leaving Cologne I must not forget to men-\\ntion the refreshing perfume which has made this\\ncity famous all over the world. The celebrated\\nEau de Cologne is said to have been invented by\\nJean Antoine Marie Farina of Domodossola in the\\nyear 1709. One could almost bathe in the perfume\\nhere for the money it would cost to filter our muddy\\nPhiladelphia water. There is an enormous quantity\\nof it manufactured, and almost every store seems\\nto have it for sale.\\nA short distance from Cologne, or Koln as the", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "Palace of Briihl. {^See page 277.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "Volendam Sights 277\\nGermans call it, is the almost forsaken station of\\nBruhl. I would advise the tourist to alight here,\\nand take a close view of the imperial palace\\nknown as the Palace of Bruhl, a handsome build-\\ning erected about the year 1725. As v/e advance\\ntoward the beautiful and spacious grounds, it is\\nnot difficult to imagine the magnificent structure\\nlooming up in the distance as the home of royalty.\\nThe approach to the palace is studded with marble\\nstatues, and the palace itself is a classic example of\\nthe French and German rococo style of architecture;\\nfrom it radiate many lovely walks and bowery\\navenues which are adorned with fine statuary.\\nHere too are velvet lawns, noble trees and glowing\\nflower beds, and should one wish to view the in-\\nterior of this elegant palace, he will find that some\\nof the rooms are open to visitors.\\nOur stay within is necessarily brief. Retracing\\nour steps to the station, we take the train, and are\\ncarried swiftly toward the old town of Bonn.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "Lovely walks and bowery avenues. [See age 2 /j.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine,\\nBonn The Birthplace of Beethoven\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Museum Monument\\nA Famous Restaurant College Students Beer Mugs\\nSpecial Tables Affairs of Honor Konigswinter Mag-\\nnificent Views Drachenfels The Castle The Dombruch\\nSiegfried and the Dragon A Desecrated Ruin The Splendor\\nof the Mountains Many Visitors View from the Summit\\nThe Students Chorus German Life A German Breakfast\\nThe Camera Old Castles and Lofty Mountains Legends of\\nthe Rhine\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Waters of the Rhine Vineyards.\\nHIS town like its sister cities is of ancient\\nfoundation, having been one of tine first\\nRoman fortresses on the Rhine. It is the\\nseat of a university which attracts students\\nfrom all parts of the world. It is a prosperous\\nlooking place with pleasant villas on the river banks,\\nand ancient picturesque houses. There are lovely\\nshaded walks in the public gardens, and a fine view\\nfrom the Alte Zoll, but the chief interest of the\\ntown for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace\\nof Beethoven, In a small unpretentious house the\\ngreat musician was born in 1770, and here were\\ncomposed many of those wonderful harmonies\\nwhich have thrilled the souls of lovers of music all\\n283", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "284 Odd Bits of Travel\\nover the world. The room in which this noble\\ngenius first saw the light of day is in the top of the\\nhouse, a garret ten feet by twelve in size, and con-\\ntains no furniture whatever: nor is it necessary to\\nremind those who enter it, by aught save the\\nwreath of green which lies peacefully upon the\\nfloor, that the spirit whose earthly tabernacle dwelt\\nhere breathed forth the fire of heaven.\\nCi eative genius. From thy hand\\nWhat shapes of order, beauty rise,\\nWhere waves thy potent, mystic wand,\\nTo people ocean, earth and skies,\\nIn an adjoining room are stored some pieces of\\nfurniture which belonged to Beethoven, and the\\npiano used by him in the composition of some of\\nhis most famous sonatas. Some of the ladies of\\nour party are permitted to play upon this sacred in-\\nstrument. Do they hope to be inspired by the\\nmagic spell of the master s touch still lingering\\namong the keys The dwelling has been purchased\\nby lovers of the celebrated composer, and fitted up as\\na Beethoven Museum. Not far off stands the statue\\nof the artist and the monument dedicated to him.\\nBefore leaving Bonn, we visit the famous restau-\\nrant which is the nightly resort of the students dur-\\ning the college term. The spacious rooms compos-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 285\\ning this cafe communicate with each other by a\\nwide and lofty doorway. The furniture consists\\nof bare wooden tables, a long counter, and dozens\\nof shabby chairs which look as if they have seen\\nhard service. The corpulent and jovial proprietor\\ninforms us that these rooms are filled to overflow-\\ning with both gay and serious students every night\\nin the week, and that here, notwithstanding the\\nofttimes boisterous merriment, questions of grave\\nimport are often discussed, together with all the\\ncurrent topics of interest; and that speeches are\\nmade brilliant enough for publication in the daily\\npapers. Here the young orator first tests his pow-\\ners, and in all his future career, he will find no more\\ncritical audience than this composed of his fellow-\\nstudents. Here too are nights given up to fun and\\njollity, to college songs and wild and reckless mirth,\\nwhen there is not a serious countenance among the\\ncrowd.\\nHe cannot try to speak with gravity,\\nBut one perceives he wags an idle tongue\\nHe cannot try to look demure, but spite\\nOf all he does he shows a laugher s cheek\\nHe cannot e en essay to walk sedate,\\nBut in his very gait one sees a jest\\nThat s ready to break out in spite of all\\nHis seeming.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "286 Odd Bits of Travel\\nHundreds of voices make the roof ring with tune-\\nful harmony: choruses, glees and comic ballads\\nfollow each other, interspersed with jokes and puffs\\nat pipes and sips of beer, for the German student\\nis a\\nRare compound of oddity, frolic and fun,\\nTo relish a joke and rejoice at a pun.\\nPounds of poor tobacco are smoked, and gallons\\nof good beer consumed at these gatherings, and the\\nlandlord is always on the side of the boys when\\nthere is any trouble, and rejoices in all their collegiate\\nhonors and their success in every other line.\\nUpon the shelves above the tables are long rows\\nof individual beer mugs, with the owners names or\\ncrests conspicuously painted in gay colors upon\\nthem. These mugs vary in capacity from a pint to\\ntwo quarts, and the host assures me gravely that\\nmany of the students drain even the largest ones\\nnine or ten times in the course of an evening. I\\nponder, as he speaks, upon the wonderful power\\nof expansion of the human stomach which performs\\nthis feat.\\nAs a natural consequence of this enormous appe-\\ntite for beer, one sees in the restaurants in many of\\nthe German cities an especial table constructed with\\na deep semicircular curve in the side, which allows", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "Not far off stands Uie statue of the artist. [See /^tige 2S4.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 289\\nthe corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage\\nin comfortable proximity to the bottle. Such as\\nthese must have been in Shakespeare s mind, when\\nhe wrote: He was a man of an unbounded\\nstomach.\\nThe deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many\\nof the students, are matters of great pride with\\nthem, as evidences of the number of affairs of\\nhonor in which they have been engaged. They\\nlook with scorn upon the fellow collegian whose\\ncountenance does not display one or more of these\\nsigns of bloody combat, and are always ready to\\nseize an occasion of this kind for the exhibition of\\ntheir bravery or their skill at arms. Sometimes\\nthese duels are a result of the silliest arguments, at\\nothers they are sought by deliberate insult given by\\nthe one who wishes to fight. A glance is some-\\ntimes sufficient for a sanguinary meeting.\\nWill they ever learn that no stain can ever be\\nwashed out with blood, no honor redeemed by the\\nsword, no moral bravery displayed by an encounter\\nof this kind It is falling to the level of the brute,\\nwith perhaps a little more skill evinced in the choice\\nof the weapons of warfare. It cannot but detract\\nfrom the dignity of the human being, and this is\\ntrue to a far greater extent in the case of those who", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "290 Odd Bits of Travel\\nentertain themselves by witnessing such unnatural\\nsports as prize fights, cock fights, and most degrad-\\ning of all, but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized\\ncountries, the bull fight; all relics of barbarism.\\nLet us leave this unpleasant subject, however, and\\nallow ourselves to be spirited away to a veritable\\nfairy land of beauty, and quaint legendary associa-\\ntions. The little town of Konigswinter nestles at\\nthe foot of the Seven Mountains, from which there\\nare innumerable views of the Rhine and the sur-\\nrounding country. A halo of romance surrounds\\nthis region, and in the many excursions from this\\npoint, the lover of the wierd and visionary will\\nfind his every step accompanied by imaginary\\nmaidens of rare grace and beauty, brave knights,\\ncrafty priests, wild huntsmen, cruel dragons, super-\\nhuman heroes, and all the wonderful personages of\\nlegendary lore. The town is a thriving, modern\\nlooking place of about thirty-five hundred inhabit-\\nants, excluding the floating population of tourists\\nwho throng the hotels and scatter themselves\\namong the private families.\\nWe arrive here early in the afternoon, and estab-\\nlish ourselves in a comfortable and attractive hotel.\\nThe day is clear and pleasant, and desiring to make\\ngood use of the hours of daylight before us, we de-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 291\\ntermine to make the ascent of the Drachenfels.\\nThere are a number of different routes or paths, by\\nwhich one may reach the summit of this mountain\\non foot; or, should the tourist prefer to ride, he can\\nuse the Mountain Railway which approaches the\\ntop in a line almost straight. Protected by stout\\nshoes, carrying wraps, and armed with long and\\nstrong wooden staffs, we walk slowly along the\\nmountain road, pausing at intervals to gaze upon\\nthe beautiful scenes which surround us in every\\ndirection. The great peak known as the Drachen-\\nfels or Dragon rock, in which from the river a vast\\ncavern may be seen, owes its name to the numerous\\nlegends which are connected with it. In the cave,\\nit is said, lived a terrible monster who daily de-\\nmanded of the people the sacrifice of a young\\nmaiden, who was bound and decorated with flow-\\ners, and placed near the entrance to his lair. Sieg-\\nfried slew the dragon and by bathing in his blood,\\nbecame invulnerable. The maiden whose life he\\nthus saved was Hildegarde, the beautiful daughter\\nof the Lord of Drachenfels, whom he afterward\\nmarried and bore to the castle whose crumbling and\\npicturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag,\\nfifteen hundred feet above the Rhine. This castle\\nwas once a mighty stronghold of the robber chief-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "292 Odd Bits of Travel\\ntains; its foundation is associated with Arnold,\\nArchbishop of Cologne at the beginning of the\\ntwelfth century, who in 1 149 bestowed it upon the\\nCassius Monastery at Bonn. It was held as a fief by\\nthe counts of the castle.\\nHenry, Count of Drachenfels, furnished the chap-\\nter of the Cathedral of Cologne with the stone for\\nits construction from a quarry which from this fact\\nstill bears the name of Dombruch, or cathedral\\nquarry. In the Thirty Years War the half-ruined\\ncastle was occupied by the Svv^edes, but was be-\\nsieged and taken from them by Duke Ferdinand of\\nBavaria, Elector of Cologne, who completed its de-\\nstruction.\\nThe cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new\\ncastle, the Drachenburg, built in 1883 for the Baron\\nvon Sarter. It is in the Gothic style, and is elabo-\\nrately decorated with frescoes and stained glass.\\nThe upper part of the mountain is covered with\\ntrees below the cliff, the lower part with grape-\\nvines, while along the banks of the Rhine at its\\nfoot are picturesque cottages, nestling among trees\\nand vines. The Drachenfels is the loftiest of the\\nSeven Mountains, and its summit commands one of\\nthe finest prospects on the Rhine. In the ruins of\\nthe old castle, ingenious and progressive man has", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "The great peak known as the Diachenfels, or Dragon Rock.\\n[See /a^e ^9^-)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 295\\nseen fit to ignore sentiment, and thrust a modern\\nrestaurant, where in spite of his shocked sensibili-\\nties, the weary traveller may in return for German\\nmarks, rest and refresh himself with sparkling wine\\nwhich is famous for its fine quality and flavor, while\\nthe cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited\\nbrain.\\nOne lingers long, dazzled by the splendor of this\\nsuperb view. Mountains and valley, river and is-\\nlands unite in a glorious picture which entrances the\\nsoul, and thrills the heart with gladness; while the\\npure, bracing mountain air, laden with the perfume\\nof the grape, fills the lungs with a perpetual feast\\nof nectar s sweets.\\nMany tourists surround us, and we hear a perfect\\nbabel of tongues: French, English, German and\\nother languages greet our ears, assuring us that\\nvisitors from all parts of the world are enjoying\\nthis magnificent panorama with us.\\nWhat a pity the camera will not encompass the\\nwonderful scene.\\nThe castled crag of Draclienfels\\nFrowns o er the wide and winding Rhine,\\nWhose breast of waters broadly swells\\nBetween the banks which bear the vine\\nAnd hills all riched with blossom d trees,\\nAnd fields which promise corn and wine", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "296 Odd Bits of Travel\\nAnd scatter d cities crowning these,\\nWhose fair white walls along them shine,\\nHave strew d a scene which I should see,\\nWith double joy wert thou with me.\\nSeveral of the Siebengebirge are visible toward\\nthe east, the basaltic heights sloping toward the\\nRhine. Just below are Rhondorf, Honnef, Rhein-\\nbreitbach, Unkel, and Erpel; on the left bank of the\\nriver are Remagen and the Gothic church on the\\nApollinarisberg, with the heights of the Eifel and\\nthe ruin of Olbrilck Castle on a height of 1,550 feet.\\nIn the neighborhood are Oberwinter, the islands of\\nGrafenwerth and Nonnenworth and the beautiful\\nruins of Rolandseck with its surrounding villas and\\ngardens. To the right, one may behold Kreuzberg,\\nBonn and even the city of Cologne in the distance.\\nIt seems as though one could gaze upon this\\nscene of grandeur and beauty forever. As twilight\\nfalls, the picture receives a new and entrancing sub-\\nHmity. The weary sun hath made a golden set,\\nand silently the sparkling stars appear, one by one,\\nwhile the deepening shadows blend the scene into\\na vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the\\nsoul up to the very threshold of heaven.\\nWe descend the mountain rather silently, unwil-\\nling to break the impression made by our journey,", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 297\\nand slowly through the gloom make our way back\\nto the hotel.\\nWhile sitting upon the porch in the evening, sur-\\nrounded by the majestic watch towers of the Rhine,\\nand expatiating on the pleasures of the day, we\\nsuddenly hear a rich full chorus, harmoniously sung\\nby at least one hundred male and female voices.\\nThe singers are invisible, and the notes seem to\\nfloat out from one of the neighboring mountain\\ncaves. We all listen with delight to the sounds,\\nwhich now approaching nearer, convince us that\\nthe singers are not the denizens of another world,\\nbut are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves, in\\nthe distance we can discern a procession of gay and\\njovial students with their sweethearts at their sides.\\nThe young men are carrying lighted torches and\\nlanterns which illuminate them and the road, and are\\nmerrily singing the popular glees and college songs\\nas they wend their way to the boat landing close\\nby.\\nThe party is returning from a German students\\npicnic, and as they board the little steamer, which\\nimmediately leaves her moorings, the air is rent by\\ncheer after cheer, and we hear the gay laughter and\\nhappy voices long after the boat has disappeared\\nfrom our eyes down the silent flowing river. Such", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "298 Odd Bits of Travel\\nis the German student life, and sucli is the character\\nof the German people not averse to pleasure, so-\\nciable, jovial, kind and happy.\\nWe rise early this morning, and partake of a good\\nGerman breakfast; and of what do you suppose a\\ngood German breakfast consists Dishes of greasy\\nsausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy, kale\\nor saurkraut, onions and hot sauces, potatoes\\nsoaked in lard; black bread which has also been\\nsoaked in lard to save the expense of butter: and\\nall this washed down with innumerable mugs of\\nbeer or Rhine wine, with a thank heaven when\\nthe unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes\\nor olfactories? No, my dear friend; our breakfast\\nis a most agreeable contrast to the picture just drawn.\\nWe are served with deliciously cooked steak and\\nchops, and the connoisseur of any nationality would\\nnot disdain these meats or the daintily prepared\\nchicken, coffee and fresh rolls. The eggs are fresh\\nand not underdone: one can find no fault with the\\nbutter or the sweet new milk, and it is with a feel-\\ning of great satisfaction that we rise from the table\\nat the close of the meal, and exclaim that we have\\nhad a breakfast fit for a king.\\nA small steamer with an upper deck waits at the\\nlanding to convey passengers and a limited amount", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 299\\nof freight from Konigswinter to Bingen. It is ten\\no clock when we step on this attractive httie boat\\nwith our numerous wraps and parcels. We are\\nwell laden, for the camera occupies one hand, and is\\nalways ready for an unexpected shot at some\\npicturesque figure, group, building or landscape.\\nAnd I will here say to the tourist who wishes to il-\\nlustrate his notes, that it is best to keep camera and\\nsketch book handy, for you little know what fine\\nopportunities are missed while you are stopping to\\nunstrap your needed friend. Let your sketching\\noutfit hang over your shoulder, and as to the camera,\\nhave one which will respond to your touch within\\nfive seconds, or you will lose many a scene of\\nbeauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of\\nfriends at home. We are much amused at the\\nbulky apparatus of a friend, which is always carried\\nneatly strapped in its box, while mine hangs over my\\nshoulder, ready to snap instantly to a demand upon\\nit. The difference in the result of the two methods\\nis that I have a collection of many valuable pictures,\\nwhile our friend spends most of his time strapping\\nand unstrapping his camera. The day is chilly and\\nthreatening, and as we leave the landing, we find\\nourselves in a heavy fog, much to my disappoint-\\nment, for I have anticipated great pleasure in seeing", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "3oo Odd Bits of Travel\\nand photographing the many beautiful ruins of old\\ncastles and the landscape along our route. How-\\never as the mist lightens now and then, I shoot\\naway here and there with as much ardor as the cir-\\ncumstances will allow: not idly or carelessly, as the\\nenthusiastic amateur, reckless of plates and results,\\nbut at unquestionably fine points, such as lofty\\ncastles and picturesque mountains, half fearing\\nsometimes that in spite of my precautions the longed-\\nfor view will prove but a blur upon my plate. It\\nis. bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime\\npictures with such faulty exposures.\\nThe country around Konigswinter is extremely\\nbeautiful. Upon both sides of the Rhine rise the\\nlofty peaks of the wooded mountains, with in al-\\nmost every case a ruined castle upon the summit.\\nHow noble and defiant is the appearance of these\\nvenerable fortresses with their eventful histories\\nand wonderful legends. Here near Remagen within\\nfull view of the river is the church dedicated to St.\\nApollinaris, at one time a great resort for pilgrims.\\nIt is said to be beautifully decorated with ancient\\nand modern works of art; the view from the church\\ntower so charmed the artist who first ornamented\\nit that he painted his portrait upon the tower that\\nhis eyes might forever look upon the mountains and", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses.\\n{See page joo.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 303\\nvalleys and follow the winding course of the glis-\\ntening river. Near the church, at the foot of the\\nmountain, is the celebrated Apollinaris fountain,\\nwhose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the\\nworld for their medicinal properties.\\nAt times the blue breaks through the clouds, and\\nthen the pictures are surpassingly lovely. The\\ncastles in their sorrowful majesty are very imposing:\\nthey are generally built of stone, are of fine archi-\\ntectural design, and are frequently the centre of\\ncharming old gardens, or are embowered in trees\\nand shrubbery. Here they stand year after year,\\nlooking down upon the ever youthful river. Some\\nof them are occupied, while others are desolate\\nruins.\\nHigh towers, fair temples,\\nStrong walls, rich porches, princely palaces.\\nAll these (oh pity), now are turned to dust,\\nAnd overgrown with black oblivion s rust.\\nOne can hardly realize the grandeur of this scen-\\nery. Every turn of the river presents a different\\nview: it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of natural\\nbeauty. Now we behold the mountains with their\\nmasses of foliage reaching to the very summits;\\nnow the charming village amid its vineyards, with\\nits odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "304 Odd Bits of Travel\\nhouses with plain roofs and quaint gables. While\\nsitting silently on deck gazing upon the old castles\\nand ever changing scenes which border this beauti-\\nful body of water, I hear solemn tones proceeding\\nfrom the belfry of an old church, and behold a little\\nprocession of mourners slowly following the hearse\\nwhich is bearing the remains of some loved relative\\nor friend to their final resting-place; a pathetic little\\ngroup walking sadly along through the drenching\\nrain from the church to the burying ground.\\nOne is compelled to notice here the numerous\\nsigns with huge letters emblazoned upon them, in-\\nforming the passers-by that here are bottled popular\\nwaters of medicinal qualities. The tottering estab-\\nlishments are, I observe, close to the water s edge,\\nand whether or not the Rhine contributes the\\ngreater part in the composition of these famous\\nwaters is an open question. However it may be,\\nthe waters, or mineral springs, of genuine virtue or\\notherwise, are the source of a considerable profit in\\nthis region. Water as a beverage is seldom used\\nby the Germans, for the light Rhine wines are to\\nbe had in perfection at a trifling cost.\\nWe glide along, passing island and vineyard, and\\ncastle crowned height, with now and then a wide\\ncurve in the river, which looks with its smiling face", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "Every turn of the river presents a different view. [See page joj^", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "Along the Banks of the Rhine 307\\nto-day much as it did centuries ago when the old\\nstrongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal\\nsplendor, and noble retinues defiled down the nar-\\nrow mountain paths to the water s edge.\\nThou, unchanged from year to year\\nGayly shalt play and glitter here\\nAmid young flowers and tender grass,\\nThine endless infancy shalt pass\\nAnd, singing down thy narrow glen,\\nShall mock the fading race of men.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine\\nto Frankfort-on-the-Main.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "Now we behold the Htlle church surrounded by picturesque houses.\\n{See page joj.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "From Bitigen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-\\nthe-Matn*\\nVast Vineyards Bingen The Hotel The Down Quilt A Ger-\\nman Maid Taverns The Mouse Tower Riidesheim\\nNiederwald The Rheingau The National Monument\\nThe Castle of Niederburg Wine Vaults The River Street\\nMusicians A Misunderstanding Frankfort-on-the-Main\\nThe Crossing of the Ford A Free City Monument of Goethe\\nHistory A Convocation of Bishops The City Monument\\nof Gutenberg The House in which Rothschild was Born\\nLuther.\\nFTER leaving Konigswinter, we pass vast\\nvineyards on both sides of the Rhine, and\\nas v/e approach Bingen we see them cov-\\nering the whole mountain-side. Among\\nthe vines may be seen what seem like steps encir-\\ncling the mountain to its very summit, but which\\nin reality are roads or paths through the vineyard.\\nThe sturdy and prolific vines grow close to these\\nwalks. In this section of the country the greatest\\ncare is given to grape culture, hence in Bingen is to\\nbe found the finest wine made in the country. In\\nthis region are located great breweries and wine\\nvaults extending into the mountain-sides for hun-\\n313", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "314 Odd Bits of Travel\\ndreds of feet. On arriving at Bingen we proceed\\nat once to the Victoria Hotel, a quiet house situated\\nat a convenient distance from both railroad station\\nand steamboat landing. The charges are moderate,\\nand the accommodations good.\\nUpon entering our sleeping apartment, I observe\\nupon the beds huge fluffy quilts stuffed with soft\\nfeathers, and forming a pile at least two feet in\\nthickness, which covers the entire surface from\\nbolster to footboard. This ominous appearance\\nfills me with strange forebodings and wondering\\nthoughts. I say to myself: God made the country,\\nand man made the town, but who on earth has\\nmanufactured these monstrous counterpanes, and\\nfor what purpose? Surely not for ornament, for\\nthey are the most unsightly objects I have ever\\nbeheld in the line of needlework, and look as if\\nintended to smother hydrophobia patients. But as\\nfew dogs are seen hereabout, this does not seem\\nprobable. The appearance of a smiling innocent-\\nfaced chambermaid interrupts my meditations.\\nShe informs me that these great masses of feathers\\nare used to keep the body warm at night. I con-\\nclude from this that the Germans are a cold-blooded\\npeople, since such a slaughter of the feathery\\ntribe is necessary to maintain their normal tern-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": ":f$a0lS\\nApproaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side.\\n(\u00e2\u0096\u00a0See/ai^ej/j.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 317\\nperature when in a state of repose. As night ad-\\nvances, I summon up courage to crawl under this\\nfluffy mountain, and in a few moments feel as if a\\ngreat loaf of freshly-baked bread is lying upon me.\\nThe heat is intense, and makes me think of Eternal\\ntorments, baths of boiling sulphur, vicissitudes of\\nfires. I cast it off, and as the nights are chilly, soon\\nfind myself too cool. But I will not allow the enemy\\nto return and overpower me, for there is much to\\nbe seen hereabout on the morrow, and I know that\\novergrown spread would absorb all the strength\\nreserved for the occasion. Placing my steamer rug\\nupon the bed, I am soon oblivious to all surround-\\nings and happy in a land of pleasant dreams.\\nThis house is indeed delightfully located in the\\nmidst of a beautiful country. Bingen is a lovely\\ntown at the entrance of the romantic Nahe valley,\\nlooking out upon mountain, glen and river on\\nevery side, upon lofty castles and vine-embowered\\ncottages. Quaint narrow streets and ancient build-\\nings, whose history is buried in the distant cen-\\nturies, tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger\\nin this neighborhood. The place was known to\\nthe Romans, who erected a castle here, which was\\ndestroyed by the French in 1689, but which has\\nbeen restored and extended. There is a beautiful", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "3i8 Odd Bits of Travel\\nview from the tower, and footpaths ascend to it\\nboth from the Nahe and the Rhine.\\nHere are old historic taverns, whose floors are\\ncomposed of large slabs of stone. The primitive\\nchairs and tables are of rude workmanship, and de-\\nvoid of paint or style, but heavy and strong enough\\nto support the weary travellers who resort thither.\\nWe wander about, revelling in nature s enchant-\\ning pictures, and rejoicing in the mysterious atmos-\\nphere of the dense forests, which form the back-\\nground. The smiling river, with its silver sheen\\nbeneath the moon, or its golden reflections of the\\nsetting sun, is ever an inspiration and a suggestion\\nfor some new trip or point of vantage. Yes, here\\nare scenes for the artist, and pictures ready for the\\ncamera. Here too, on a quartz rock in the middle\\nof the Rhine is the Mouse Tower which is said to\\nowe its name to the well-known legend of the\\ncruel Archbishop Hatto of Mayence.\\nIn the year 914, a protracted rain ruined the har-\\nvest in this region, and a terrible famine ensued\\namong the poor people, who in their distress finally\\napplied to the archbishop, as his granaries were\\noverflowing with the harvests of former years.\\nBut the hard-hearted prelate would not listen to\\nthem. At last they wearied him so with their im-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 319\\nportunities, that he bade them assemble in an empty\\nbarn, promising to meet them on a certain day and\\nquiet their demands.\\nDelighted with the prospect of relief, the people\\ngathered on the appointed day in such numbers\\nthat the barn was soon filled. The archbishop\\nordered his servants to fasten all the doors and\\nwindows so that none could escape, and then set\\nfire to the building, declaring that they were as\\ntroublesome as rats, and should perish in the same\\nway.\\nThe following day, when the bishop entered his\\ndining-room, he found that the rats had gnawed his\\nrecently finished portrait from the frame, and it lay\\nin a heap of fragments on the floor. While he\\nstood gazing at it a messenger burst into the room\\nwith the news that a great army of fierce looking\\nrats were coming toward the castle. Without a\\nmoment s delay the archbishop flung himself on a\\nhorse and rode rapidly away followed by thousands\\nof rats ail animated by the revengeful spirits of the\\nstarving population he had burned. He had scarcely\\ndismounted and entered a small boat on the Rhine,\\nwhen the rats fell upon his horse and devoured it.\\nRowing to his tower in the middle of the Rhine, he\\nlocked himself in, thinking he had escaped his vo-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "320 Odd Bits of Travel\\nracious foes; but the rats boldly swam across the\\nBingerloch, and gnawed thousands of holes in the\\ntower, through which they rushed to their victim.\\nSouthey in his ballad, thus describes their entrance\\ninto the tower:\\nAnd in at the windows, and in at the door,\\nAnd through the walls, helter-skelter they pour,\\nAnd down from the ceihng, and up from the floor,\\nFrom the right and the left, from behind and before,\\nFrom within and without, from above and below,\\nAnd all at once to the bishop they go.\\nThey have whetted their teeth against the stones,\\nAnd now they pick the bishop s bones\\nThey knawed the flesh from every limb.\\nFor they were sent to do judgment on him.\\nThis is the old legend; but now comes the\\nsearcher after truth with the information that the\\ntower was in reality erected in the middle ages as a\\nwatch tower, and the name is derived from the old\\nGerman musen, to spy. These ruins were again\\nconverted into a station for signalling steamers,\\nwhich in descending the Rhine are required to\\nslacken speed here when other vessels are coming\\nup the river.\\nTaking one of the small steamboats which run\\nfrom Bingen to the opposite bank, we land at the\\nlittle town of Rudesheim which lies at the base of", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 321\\nthe mountain. This old town is one of the most\\nfamous on the river, not only for its wines but for\\nthe legend of the beautiful Gisela, who was com-\\nmanded by her father to become a nun in fulfill-\\nment of his vow made in Palestine during the\\ncrusade against the Saracens. The maiden had a\\nlover, and finding that no entreaties could save her\\nfrom her fate, Gisela leaped from a tower into the\\nriver, and the fishermen declare that her spirit still\\nlingers about the Bingerloch, and her voice is often\\nheard amid the rushing torrent.\\nThe first vineyards here are said to have been\\nplanted by Charlemagne, who observed that the\\nsnow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the\\ntown than from other regions in the neighborhood.\\nThe Riidesheimer Berg is covered with walls and\\narches, and terrace rises above terrace, to prevent\\nthe falling of the soil.\\nWe drive to the top of this charming hill whose\\nsunny slopes are clothed with vineyards. Upon the\\nsummit, as on most of the others in the neighbor-\\nhood, there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out,\\nand here one may remain and enjoy the pure air\\nand enchanting views, for a day, a week, or for the\\nwhole season.\\nHere, too, is the National Monument, in describ-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "322\\nOdd Bits of Travel\\ning which I will copy the words of my guide\\nbook:\\nThe National Monument on the Niederwald,\\nerected in commemoration of the unanimous rising\\nof the people and the foundation of the new Ger-\\nman Empire in 1870-71, stands upon a projecting\\nspur of the hill (980 feet above the sea level; 740\\nfeet above the Rhine), opposite Bingen, and is con-\\nspicuous far and wide. It was begun in 1877 from\\nthe designs of Professor Schilling of Dresden, and\\nwas inaugurated in 1883 in presence of Emperor\\nWilliam I. and numerous other German princes.\\nThe huge architectural basis is seventy-eight feet\\nhigh, v/hile the noble figure of Germania, with the\\nimperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword, an\\nemblem of the unity and strength of the empire, is\\nthirty-three feet in height. The principal relief on\\nthe side of the pedestal facing the river, symbolizes\\nthe Wacht am Rhein. It contains portraits of\\nKing William of Prussia and other German princes\\nand generals, together with representatives of the\\ntroops from the different parts of Germany, with\\nthe text of the famous song below; to the right and\\nleft are allegorical figures of Peace and War, while\\nbelow are Rhenus and Mosella, the latter as the\\nfuture guardian of the western frontier of the em-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0330.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 323\\npire. The fine reliefs on the sides of the pedestal\\nrepresent the departure and the return of the\\ntroops.\\nWe visit many of the most noted breweries and\\nwine vaults in the neighborhood. Those of Herr\\nJ, Hufnagel are the largest in this section of the\\ncountry. They are cut in the base of the moun-\\ntain, and extend inward many hundred feet. Here\\nthe choice wines are stored, many of the enormous\\ncasks containing upwards of twenty thousand\\nquarts. Hundreds of barrels and hogsheads are\\nseen; in fact every nook and corner of the vault is\\nfilled, and so extensive is this subterranean apart-\\nment, that avenues are made from one part to an-\\nother, and along these we walk, the guide bearing\\na lamp to light the way.\\nAfter visiting these great storerooms, we are in-\\nvited to the hotel of the proprietor, which is close\\nby, and on the porch we are served with an enjoy-\\nable lunch flavored with choice German wine.\\nThere is a beautiful drive along the river bank,\\nand if one is tired, he may stop at one of the invit-\\ning restaurants in this neighborhood, and while\\nresting and refreshing himself, look out at the tour-\\nists and others passing along the wide airy street,\\nor as is a common custom, he may have his", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0331.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "324 Odd Bits of Travel\\nluncheon served upon the porch, from which there\\nis a delightful and extended view of the Rhine.\\nWith plenty of shade and comfortable chairs, and\\nthe beautiful river before us, how swiftly the time\\npasses! Sometimes, in consequence of our igno-\\nrance of the language, laughable mistakes are made\\nin the ordering of our meals, which seem to increase\\nthe jollity of both the waiters and our party. On\\none of these occasions, while eating our luncheon\\nin the open air, a band of eight or ten street musi-\\ncians station themselves upon the porch but a few\\nfeet from us. They are healthy, hearty-looking\\nmen, but contrary to our previous experience in this\\ncountry, they play the most inharmonious airs.\\nWe endure this for a short time, then as the dis-\\ncordant sounds become more and more annoying,\\nwe bestow upon the leader a number of small coins,\\nand entreat them to begone. They evidently mis-\\nunderstand us, and think, from our liberal contribu-\\ntion, that we appreciate their efforts, for they con-\\ntinue their playing with increased vigor and discord.\\nWe do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters, so\\nresign ourselves to the situation. After repeating\\ntheir repertoire, which seems endless, with profuse\\nsmiling bows and thanks they leave us at last to the\\npeaceful enjoyment of the day.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0332.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 325\\nThe Niederberg is a massive rectangular castle\\nwhose three vaulted stories, belonging to Ihe twelfth\\ncentury, were joined to the remains of a structure\\nof earlier date. It was originally the seat of the\\nKnights of Rudesheim, who were compelled to be-\\ncome vassals of the Archbishop of Mayence. for\\nbrigandage.\\nAt Rudesheim begins the Rheingau, which is the\\nvery vineyard of this country. Here every foot\\nof ground is cultivated, and the grape is the mon-\\narch of the land. All the hillsides are covered with\\nthe vines, and here in the midst of the verdure ap-\\npears the picturesque villa of the planter or wine\\nmerchant. It is a rich and beautiful region.\\nFrom Bingen and Rudesheim we go to Frank-\\nfort-on-the-Main. This town which has witnessed\\nthe coronation of many of the German emperors, is\\nnoted for its ancient legends, and to one of these it\\nis said it owes its name. This is the story: Charle-\\nmagne, having penetrated into the forests to wage\\nwar against the Saxons, was once compelled to re-\\ntreat with his brave Franks. A heavy fog lay over\\nthe country which was unknown to him.~ Fearing\\nthat his little army would be cut to pieces if he lin-\\ngered, and unable to see more than a few feet ahead\\nof him, Charlemagne prayed to the Lord for help", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0333.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "326 Odd Bits of Travel\\nand guidance. The next moment the heavy fog\\nparted, and the emperor saw a doe leading her\\nyoung through the stream. He instantly called to\\nhis men, and they forded the river in safety. The\\nfog closed behind them and hid them from the pur-\\nsuing enemy.\\nIn commemoration of his deliverance, Charle-\\nmagne called the place Frankford (the ford of the\\nFranks), and the city which grew up shortly after-\\nward retained the name.\\nThis, one of the important cities of Germany, is\\nsaid to have been a small Roman military station in\\nthe first century, a. d.\\nIt is first mentioned as Franconoford and the seat\\nof the royal residence in 793; and the following\\nyear Charlemagne held a convocation of bishops\\nand dignitaries of the empire here. The town at-\\ntained such a degree of prosperity that in 876, at\\nthe death of Lewis the German, it was looked upon\\nas the capital of the east Franconian Empire. On\\nthe dissolution of the empire in 1806, Frankfort\\nwas made over to the Primate of the Rhenish Con-\\nfederation, and in 1810 it became the capital of the\\ngrand-duchy of Frankfort.\\nIt was one of the four free cities of the German\\nConfederation, and the seat of the Diet from 181 5", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0334.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 327\\nto 1866, in which year it passed to Prussia. To-day\\nwe find it a handsome city of two hundred and\\ntwenty-nine thousand inhabitants, vv ith beautiful\\nstreets, stately houses surrounded by lovely gar-\\ndens, and fine stores, parks, monuments and many\\nattractions for the tourist. Here are churches,\\ntheatres, libraries and museums, and an opera\\nhouse which will accommodate two thousand\\nspectators.\\nIn the Rossmarkt stands the monument of Guten-\\nberg, which consists of three figures, Gutenberg in\\nthe centre with Fust and Schoffer on either side,\\nupon a large sandstone pedestal. On the frieze are\\nportrait heads of celebrated printers, and in the\\nniches beneath are the arms of the four towns\\nwhere printing was first practiced: Mayence,\\nFrankfort, Venice and Strassburg. Around the\\nbase are figures representing Theology, Poetry,\\nNatural Science and Industry. This monument\\nwas erected in 1858.\\nThis is the birthplace of Goethe, and here is the\\nhouse in which the poet was born, with its inscrip-\\ntion recording that event, (August 28, 1749). The\\nhandsome monument of Goethe, erected in 1844,\\ntwelve years after his death adorns the Goethe-\\nPlatz. The pedestal of the monument bears alle-", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0335.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "328 Odd Bits of Travel\\ngorical figures in relief in front, while on the sides\\nare figures from the poems of the great writer.\\nThere are twenty-three thousand Jews in Frank-\\nfort, and in the quarter to which these people are\\nlimited, we are shown the house in which the Sen-\\nior Rothschild was born. It is an unassuming brick\\nbuilding of three stories, in good repair. As I gaze\\nupon this modest dwelling, I think of the man who\\nfrom such unpromising beginning, became the\\nfounder of the greatest financial firm the world has\\nknown.\\nThere is a stone effigy of Luther not far from the\\nCathedral, in memory of a tradition that the great\\nreformer preached a sermon here on his journey to\\nWorms. It is true that these associations are to be\\nfound in almost every European town but none\\nthe less are we impressed as we stand before the\\nmonuments of the great ones of the earth the men\\nwho have left their indelible marks footprints on\\nthe sands of time which the years have no power\\nto efface. These men must have truly lived.\\n}ie most lives\\nWho thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best.\\nThe Cathedral of Frankford is a conspicuous\\nedifice towering above the other buildings, quaint\\nand picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0336.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "From Bingen on the Rhine 329\\nmany of its details. From the platform of the\\ntower, one may have a beautiful view of the city,\\nwith its thick border of trees, and of the fields and\\nmeadows beyond along the shining waters of the\\nMain. This Church of St. Bartholomew was\\nfounded by Lewis the German in 852, and was re-\\nbuilt in the Gothic style 1235-39. The different por-\\ntions represent various periods. The tower, left\\nunfinished in 1512, now three hundred and twelve\\nfeet high, was completed from the designs of the\\narchitect which were discovered in the municipal\\narchives.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0337.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0338.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital and\\na Fashionable Resort.", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0339.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0340.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable\\nResort*\\nWe Start for Berlin Mountain andValley Harvesters Villages\\nA Great City Unter den Linden Kroll Theatre and Garden\\nThe City Streets Ostend A Fashionable Watering Dace\\nThe Promenade The Kursaal On the Beach Bathing\\nMachines Studies for an Artist The Race Course Sunday\\nThe Winning Horse Fickle Dame Fortune The English\\nChannel A Bureau of Information Queenstown An Irish\\nLass The Last Stop The End of the Journey.\\nHE journey from Frankfort to Berlin is\\nthrough a pleasant and interesting country.\\nFor many miles we look from the car\\nwindows upon an undulating landscape:\\nhills and valleys follow each other in rapid succes-\\nsion as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a\\nminute. Now and then we pass men and women\\nin the fields; and now young girls with bare feet\\nand short skirts busily raking the hay, true pictures\\nof Maud Muller on a summer day. And here is\\na whole group of nut brown maids laughing\\nmerrily at their work, while over in a corner of the\\nfield is the belle of the countryside listening shyly\\n333", "height": "2728", "width": "1725", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0341.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "334 Odd Bits of Travel\\nto -the stalwart young harvester who stands on the\\nborder of the adjoining meadow.\\nHer tresses loose behind\\nPlay on her neck and wanton with the wind\\nThe rising blushes which her cheeks o erspread\\nAre opening roses in the hly s bed.\\nNow we pass the harvesters at rest, sitting under\\nthe green trees and hedges with their dinner pails\\nbeside them. It is a pleasant, peaceful picture.\\nHere is a picturesque village with quaint looking\\nhouses, and a little gurgling brook in the fore-\\nground. An echo from the distant mountain an-\\nswers the shrill whistle of our engine and we can\\nsee the silvery cloud of smoke that follows us\\nwander off to the right, then fade away in misty\\nfragments. In many of these settlements, there are\\nshaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed,\\nand here the villagers are sipping their beer, in\\nhappy social converse.\\nThe young people wave their hands and caps to\\nus as we pass, and with their bright costumes ani-\\nmate the lovely scenes which, although so close to\\neach other, are of such different character. At last\\nwe reach Berlin, and our great iron horse stands\\npuffing in the station, defying man to detect upon\\nhim any sign of exhaustion.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0342.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 335\\nIn this large city entertainment can be found for\\npeople of every kind and taste. Thie street known\\nthrougliout the world as Unter-den-Linden is a\\nsplendid avenue, one hundred and sixty-five feet in\\nwidth, and takes its name from the double row of\\nlinden trees with which it is ornamented. It is the\\nbusiest portion of the city, contains handsome\\nhotels, beautiful palaces, large shops, and many fine\\nstatues of celebrated men.\\nThe first day or two after your arrival in the city,\\nengage a carriage and take in the general appear-\\nance of the city, its parks and suburbs; then visit\\nthe art galleries, museums, palaces and churches\\nuntil the brain becomes accustomed to the bewilder-\\ning array of subjects which demand attention.\\nStroll quietly along Unter-den-Linden stopping\\nnow and then at one of the many stores which line\\nthis beautiful avenue. At one end of this thorough-\\nfare is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a sort of\\ntriumphal arch. It is a fine structure, two hundred\\nfeet wide and seventy-five feet high, supported by\\nDoric columns. There are five entrances, the central\\none being reserved for the passage of members of\\nthe royal family.\\nThe KroU Theatre and Gardens are a popular re-\\nsort for the people of Berlin. These gardens are", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0343.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "336 Odd Bits of Travel\\nilluminated every evening by thousands of electric\\nlights, arranged in various designs, as flowers,\\nharps and other graceful forms, and this illuminated\\nscene is the centre of a gay throng of pleasure seek-\\ners, who promenade the paths, or sit about in\\ngroups listening to the music of the fine orchestras\\nstationed at each end of the spacious grounds. The\\nentertainment is not over until a very late hour.\\nThere are a number of these gardens throughout\\nthe city, which are not, as may be supposed, fre-\\nquented by the lower classes of the people, but by\\npersons of every rank in society. One can hardly\\nappreciate this scene without having passed an\\nevening amid its light-hearted crowds. Here may\\nbe seen officers of many honors, with conspicuous\\ngold and silver badges, mingling with the groups\\ngathered around the tables, or sauntering up and\\ndown the garden walks, as well as the private sol-\\ndier in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer\\nwith his sweetheart by his side. Title and rank\\nhere as well as elsewhere throughout Germany, are\\nhonored and respected by all classes, and the salute\\nis gracefully made whenever one of the army or\\nnavy men meets his superior officer.\\nBerlin with its life and gayety, its grandeur and\\nsimplicity, its hospitality and good cheer, captivates", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0344.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this promenade.\\n{See page 34S.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0345.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0346.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 339\\nour hearts, and we enter joyously into the many\\ndiversions it offers; as we sit among the honest\\nand kind-hearted people, we feel the charm of their\\nsocial atmosphere and wonder why other nations\\ndo not allow themselves more time for relaxation\\nand the simple pleasures which abound here.\\nThe Friedrichs-Strasse is the longest street in the\\ncity: it is well laid out, and contains many hand-\\nsome stores. Wilhelms-Strasse is a beautiful\\navenue, and is considered the most aristocratic\\nstreet in Berlin, as it contains the palaces of princes,\\nministers and other distinguished personages. A\\nhandsome square opens from this avenue, orna-\\nmented with flower-beds and fine statuary.\\nThe museums here are called the Old Museum\\nand the New Museum; they are connected by a\\npassage gallery. The entrance to the Old Museum\\nis adorned by handsome statuary, and the grand\\nportico is beautifully painted with allegorical and\\nmythological subjects: within, the walls are deco-\\nrated with frescoes representing barbarous and civi-\\nlized life, and in the great rotunda are ancient stat-\\nues of gods and goddesses. From this one passes\\nto the Gallery of Gods and Heroes, the Grecian\\ncabinet, the Hall of the Emperors, and that of\\nGreek, Roman and Assyrian sculptures. But it is", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0347.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "340 Odd Bits of Travel\\nvain to attempt a description of this vast collection\\nof paintings, and otlier works of art in the short\\nspace 1 have to devote to the subject. To appreci-\\nate a collection of this kind, one should visit it in\\nperson.\\nThe Thiergarten is a great park, two miles long,\\nbeautifully laid out, and containing many splendid\\nold trees, rustic paths, and artificial ponds and\\nstreams. The grounds are ornamented with statu-\\nary, and the fine zoological collection is in good\\ncondition and well arranged. But we must leave\\nfascinating Berlin, and pass on to other scenes.\\nNow we reach Ostend on the coast of Belgium,\\none of the most fashionable watering-places of\\nEurope. During the season it attracts thousands of\\nvisitors, especially from Belgium and Holland. It\\nwas originally a fishing station, but was enlarged\\nby Philip the Good, and fortified by the Prince of\\nOrange in 1583, In the early part of the seven-\\nteenth century it sustained one of the most remark-\\nable sieges on record, holding out against the Span-\\nish for a period of three years, and finally surren-\\ndering only at the command of the States General\\nTo-day promenades take the places of the old\\nfortifications, and handsome residences stand where\\nthe simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt in their cot-", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0348.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "There are many odd and fantastic sights here. [See page j4y.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0349.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0350.jp2"}, "351": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 343\\ntages. The tide of fashion rolls where a simple\\npeople lived their daily life of care and toil. Here\\ncongregate people of every nation, the old and the\\nyoung; and the cosmopolitan character of the prom-\\nenade is a source of great entertainment to the\\nstranger. As we approach the Digue or chief\\npromenade, which is elevated fully a hundred feet\\nabove the beach, we are struck with the beauty of\\nthis grand esplanade, a hundred feet wide and ex-\\ntending miles along the shore. On the city side\\nare many handsome buildings; residences, hotels,\\ncafes and some stores. These buildings occupy a\\nspace fully a mile in length, but the promenade\\nwith its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many\\nmiles. Chairs and benches are placed at convenient\\nintervals for the use of the public, and every day,\\nespecially in the afternoon, thousands of fashionably\\ndressed people appear upon this walk, rejoicing in\\nthe opportunity to display elaborate gowns; some\\nby strolling to and fro before the benches and\\nchairs, and others by more ostentatiously driving\\nby in handsome equipages, with coachmen and\\nfootmen in appropriate livery.\\nYet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening,\\nlistening to the harmonious melody of the sea, as it\\nmingles its voice with the strains of a fine orches-", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0351.jp2"}, "352": {"fulltext": "344 Travel\\ntra, and watching the merry throng passing and re-\\npassing. The silent night afar out on the glisten-\\ning waters seems like a brooding spirit.\\nThou boundless, shining, glorious sea,\\nWith ecstasy I gaze on thee\\nAnd as I gaze, thy billowy roll\\nWakes the deep feelings of my soul.\\nWe extend our walk and take in the Kursaai, a\\nhandsome structure of marble and iron built upon\\nthe side of the promenade. It covers a large area,\\nand within its walls, the sounds of choice music\\nare constantly heard. Dances, concerts and many\\nother forms of entertainment keep this fashionable\\nresort in a whirl both day and night. On many of\\nthese occasions the dressing is the most important\\nfeature of the affair. The people who resort thither\\nare families of considerable wealth, and can, when\\nthey choose, run to extremes in paying court to\\nDame Fashion.\\nLet us descend about noon, by the long low\\nsteps, from the promenade to the beach below, and\\nhere we will find a long unbroken line of wagons\\nfacing the sea. These wagons have large numbers\\npainted conspicuously on their backs: upon one\\nside is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn,\\nand a pair of strong shafts is attached to each ve-", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0352.jp2"}, "353": {"fulltext": "One s portfolio might soon e (illcil with interesting subjects.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0353.jp2"}, "354": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0354.jp2"}, "355": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 347\\nhide. The stranger will wonder what on earth\\nthese unsightly things are designed for, and why\\nthey thus mar the beauty of the beach. Have pa-\\ntience; inexperienced stranger, and you will see\\nthese inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks and\\nnow one, now another be hauled rapidly forward,\\nsome to the water s edge, others into the ocean up\\nto the hubs. In explanation of this I would state\\nthat when the bathing hour arrives, a horse is at-\\ntached to each wagon, and the occupant or occu-\\npants, when it reaches the water s edge, open the\\ndoor and spring forth a nymph and her compan-\\nions, in their scant bathing robes, ready for the\\nplunge. The costumes of both men and women\\nare not such as find favor with fastidious mortals,\\nand many of the scenes witnessed on this beach\\nwould not be tolerated at any of our American\\nwatering-places.\\nIt is quite common for men, women and children\\nto remove their shoes and stockings and wade ankle\\ndeep in the surf.\\nHowever, there are many odd and fantastic sights\\nhere, and many pretty tableaux on the beach which\\nwould delight the eyes of an artist, and I often\\nthink that one s portfolio might soon be filled with\\ninteresting subjects.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0355.jp2"}, "356": {"fulltext": "348 Odd Bits of Travel\\nAs the races are to be held this afternoon at the\\nCourse, a mile beyond the Kursaal, and just off the\\npromenade, we wend our way thither. The race-\\ncourse is similar to those in England and France.\\nAs the appointed hour approaches, a throng of fash-\\nionable people seat themselves upon the grand\\nstand, until every place is filled, and even the aisles\\nare crowded with the elite of Ostend,\\nI forgot to mention the fact that the day is Sun-\\nday, but this seems to make little difference to these\\ngayety-loving people.\\nThe horses start, and now betting and excitement\\ngo hand in hand.\\nSome play for gain to pass time, others play\\nFor nothing both do play the fool.\\nI have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion,\\nof predicting the winning horse a number of con-\\nsecutive times in my conversation with one of our\\nparty who sits beside me. These lucky guesses at-\\ntract the attention of a stranger who is on my other\\nside, and considering them as so many evidences of\\nremarkable judgment or knowledge, he resolves to\\nprofit thereby. Accordingly before the next run-\\nning, as the horses walk slowly before the specta-\\ntors and the judges stand, the man quietly asks me\\nto name the winner in the next race. I quickly", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0356.jp2"}, "357": {"fulltext": "WiS W-^\u00c2\u00abi-^ rT ^^^^^^^^H\\ni^^^Efl^H\\nU*-^-^ l. V x^\\nJb\\n^^HBHf^Ka^H^S^^^H\\nn^rpfTli^jg\\ni\\n.^IVksto^\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0A ^iiSL r.\\ni\u00c2\u00ab!\\n?i^K^ wi\\n^H\\n-^m^ ,..j\\nm^\\nMany typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel. pcg^ 353-)", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0357.jp2"}, "358": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0358.jp2"}, "359": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 351\\nmake a choice and mention the horse s name. The\\nstranger bids me good-day and hastens away to\\nplace his pile with some bookmaker on the\\nidentical horse which I have named.\\nWith a rush of spirit and courage the noble ani-\\nmals fly over the course, and every jockey seated in\\na saddle looks determined to win. Faster and faster\\nthey urge the flying steeds with spur and voice, and\\nthe animals themselves, with distended nostrils and\\nsteaming breath dash past the judges stand in\\nfrenzied effort. The merry jingle of the bell pro-\\nclaims that the goal is reached: the great sign-board\\nwith the winner s name upon it is visible to all.\\nWhat has become of my luck And what has be-\\ncome of the stranger who relied on my judgment a\\nfew moments ago? My horse has lost. Goodness!\\n1 feel as though I have committed a crime, and I am\\nvery sure that Dame Fortune receives from me in\\nprivate a score of epithets, not the most complimen-\\ntary in the world for her unprincipled desertion.\\nI feel sure that if I had my instantaneous camera,\\nor pencil handy, this disappointed man s face\\nwould make a foreground in the picture that would\\nsurely be a winner.\\nWe leave Ostend on the steamer La Flandre.\\nThe schedule time is 10: 40 a. m. We go on board", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0359.jp2"}, "360": {"fulltext": "352 Odd Bits of Travel\\namid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on\\nshore. As it is a dear bright day with a delightful\\nsalt breeze, there is much pleasure in sitting on deck\\nand enjoying the view. The English Channel is\\ngenerally a turbulent body of water, noted for its\\nmany victories over the unfortunates who trust\\nthemselves in its power, but to-day it is mild and\\ncalm, probably plotting mischief to the next boat\\nload of passengers that shall come its way.\\nIndescribable confusion reigns in our hotel, at\\nLiverpool, for more than a hundred of its guests are\\non the point of sailing for America. Innumerable\\npackages, grips, umbrellas and walking sticks\\nline the corridors. Every one is moving to and\\nfro in hot haste. One lady asks me if I know at\\nwhat hour the steamer on which she has taken pas-\\nsage will sail: another wants information in regard to\\nher steamer: a man with perspiration trickling down\\nhis face begs me to tell him how to send his five\\ntrunks and other baggage to the landing stage.\\nThese and many more annoying and importunate\\npeople make life a burden to me. I do not know\\nwhy they choose me to share in their misery. Do\\nI look like a walking bureau of information, 1 won-\\nder! If I do, I shall learn how to change my ex-\\npression. But in truth the faces of these bewildered", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0360.jp2"}, "361": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 353\\npeople are a study, and I am genuinely sorry for\\nthem.\\nThe steamer cuts loose from her moorings, and\\nmoves gracefully out into the great ocean. As we\\napproach Queenstown, we observe the small farms\\nand dwellings close to the edge of the water.\\nThen the lighthouse and the forts which guard the\\nentrance to the harbor come into view, and now\\nwe drop anchor and wait for passengers and the\\nmails. A little steam tug becomes visible, and as\\nshe draws nearer, we learn that she is bearing the\\nmails and passengers to our ship. At last she is\\nclose beside us, and when made fast, the transfer\\ntakes place. Now is the time for the camera or\\nsketch book, for many typical Irish characters come\\naboard our vessel, with strange, half-frightened faces,\\nand their worldly belongings carried on their backs,\\nor clutched tightly in their hands. Among the\\ngroup 1 notice a middle-aged woman with a young\\npig nestling peacefully under her arm. Whether it\\nis a pet, or simply a piece of live stock to begin\\nhousekeeping v/ith in the new country, I cannot say,\\nbut with a contented expression on both faces,\\nBridget and her pig disappear into the special quar-\\nters which are reserved for the emigrants. This\\nwhole scene is very interesting. The old-fashioned", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0361.jp2"}, "362": {"fulltext": "354 Travel\\nblack glazed oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspic-\\nuous part in the picture, and here and there are\\nseen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs\\nand carried on the end of a stick, which is slung\\nover the shoulder, while the corduroy knee breeches,\\nwoollen stockings, heavy shoes and pea-jackets with\\ncaps to match give us a fine representation of the\\nIrishman on his native heath.\\nSeveral small boats are floating at our side from\\none of these a rope is thrown to a sailor on our\\ndeck, and a bright and comely Irish girl climbs\\nnimbly up, hand over hand, and stands among the\\ncabin passengers. With quick, deft movements she\\npulls up a basket filled with Irish knickknacks, such\\nas pipes, crosses, pigs, spoons and forks made of\\nbog-wood; these, with knit shawls and similar\\narticles, she displays on deck, and it would be diffi-\\ncult to find a prettier, wittier, more attractive speci-\\nmen of old Ireland s lasses than this. By means of\\nher ready tongue she disposes of all her wares, and\\nwhen the whistle warns all hands to leave the deck,\\nshe glides gracefully down the rope, and settling\\nherself in her little boat, pulls for the shore.\\nThis is our last stop until we reach New York.\\nThe anchor is pulled up, and away we go steaming\\non our homeward voyage. The little steam tug", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0362.jp2"}, "363": {"fulltext": "Several small boats are floating at our side. {See page jj4.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0363.jp2"}, "364": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0080\u00a2I", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0364.jp2"}, "365": {"fulltext": "A Prussian Capital 357\\nruns along beside us for a time, then the whistles of\\nboth vessels blow a farewell to each other, and our\\nlittle comrade gradually fades from our sight.\\nSuddenly a heavy fog comes up, and the incessant\\nblowing of the fog-horn is a tiresome sound: but\\nthe wind follows up the mist and scatters it far and\\nwide, and now we have the boundless prospect of\\nthe ocean before us.\\nStrongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows,\\nNothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the\\nocean.\\nAs we gaze upon it day after day, its beauty and\\ngrandeur grow upon us more and more. I can think\\nof no better words than those of Childe Harold\\nwhich so beautifully express the thoughts the scene\\ninspires.\\nRoll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll.\\nTen thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain\\nMan marks the earth with ruin his control\\nStops with the shore upon the watery plain\\nThe wrecks are all thy deeds, nor doth remain\\nA shadow of man s ravage, save his own.\\nWhen, for a moment, like a drop of rain.\\nHe sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan.\\nWithout a grave, unknelled, uncoffined and unknown.\\nThen, as if by magic, the huge waves lessen in\\ntheir angry murmurs, the surface becomes quiet and", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0365.jp2"}, "366": {"fulltext": "358 Odd Bits of Travel\\ncalm; evening creeps on, and the glow from a de-\\nscending sun illuminates the scene. As I look upon\\nthis beautiful and restful picture, I think how true\\nthe words:\\nBeyond is all abyss,\\nEternity, whose end no eye can reach.\\nThe reading of this book has no doubt been a\\npleasure and a profit to you. Then why not recom-\\nmend it to your friends You will find cards on\\nthe inside of the bach cover to assist you.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0366.jp2"}, "367": {"fulltext": "Beyond is all aljyss,\\nEternity, whose end no eye can reach.\\n{See page J jS.)", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0367.jp2"}, "368": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0368.jp2"}, "369": {"fulltext": "BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS\\nThe British Isles through an Opera Glass\\nBy CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.\\nAuthor of Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan. AVith\\n48 full-page illustrations, principally from photographs.\\nCrown 8vo, about 350 pages, deckle edge paper, cloth\\njacket, in box, $2.00.\\nWhat is said of The British Isles\\nMr. Taylor has the knack of making the story of his j ourney ings enter-\\ntaining to the public. The usual descriptions of time-worn scenes give\\nplace to charming personal narrative, and a wealth of incident and episode\\ngives to the book an exceptional interest. The fine half-tones of English\\nscenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance its charm.\\nThe Philadelphia Call.\\nIt is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of travel,\\nnot only in England, but in Scotland and Ireland. The author takes little\\nfrom the guide books and their familiar histories, but notes many interesting\\ndetails that attracted his own attention. Furthermore he has illustrated his\\nbook witn a large number of photographs, both of places and people, that\\nare quite out of the common run, and the pictures alone would suffice to\\ngive ihe volume distinction. The Philadelphia Times.\\nThe book is all the eye could wish, and as we turn the pages quickly\\nfrom one to another of the forcy-eight beautiful photographic illustrations a\\nveritable panorama passes before us. The author is enthusiastic over what\\nhe saw in the British Isles, and he is evidently desirous of sharing his pleas-\\nure with those who have not been privileged to see for themselves. The\\nPhiladelphia American.\\nIt is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who\\nknows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love travel\\nwould like to be. The Bookseller.\\nMr. Taylor traveled through the British Isles with an observing eye,\\na ready note-book, and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence.\\nThe narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote, while the per-\\nsonal point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy. The volume\\nis beautifully made, and the photographs, about fifty in number, are par-\\nticularly well reproduced in half-tones The Philadelphia Press.\\nFor sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of\\nthe price by the publishers\\nGEORGE W, JACOBS CO.\\nX03-105 South Fifteenth Street Philadelphia, Pa,", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0369.jp2"}, "370": {"fulltext": "BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS\\nVacation Days in Hawaii and Japan\\nBy CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.\\nWith over loo half-tone illustrations, principally from\\nphotographs. Crown 8vo. 361 pages, gilt top, uncut\\nedges. With unique cover design. Price, $2.00.\\nWhat is said of Vacation Days\\nMr. Taylor is a keen observer, who penetrated beyond the beaten\\ntrack of the usual tourist, and his sketches of Home Life, Natural Beauties\\nand Every-day scenes, have individuality and charm. Literary News,\\nThe narrative is written in a clear, easy style, with an aptitude for\\ngiving just that kind of information concerning every-day Ufe which people\\nmiss too often in books of travel. Philadelphia Press.\\nA very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from\\nphotographs taken by the author of Japanese people, men, women and\\nchildren, engaged at their ordinary vocations, also pictures of Japanese\\nscenery, shops, living rooms and temples. These illustrations are remark-\\neble for their realism. Indianapolis Journal.\\nThe book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through Hawaii and\\nJapan. The special value of the narrative is that it covers points of in-\\nterest in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded in the\\nguide books and ordinary books of travel. The Philadelphia Call.\\nA four months trip through Hawaii and Japan is narrated in this com-\\npact and entertaining volume. Mr. Taylor applies systematic methods to\\nhis sight-seeing. He is an appreciative observer as well. He was not con-\\ntent with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear, picturesque and\\nfresh. The Philadelphia Ledger.\\nTwo conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average\\nin its class it describes new grounds and scenes, and the narrative ripples\\nalong with the ease and liveliness of a brook. Without professing to be\\nspecially instructive, Mr. Taylor conveys a great amount of information\\nsuch as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant way, blending the matter\\nof fact with the entertaining. The Philadelphia American.\\nFor sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of\\nthe price by the publishers\\nGEORGE W. JACOBS S, CO.\\n103-105 South Fifteenth Street Philadelphia, Pa.", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0370.jp2"}, "371": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0371.jp2"}, "372": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0372.jp2"}, "373": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0373.jp2"}, "374": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0374.jp2"}, "375": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0375.jp2"}, "376": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0376.jp2"}, "377": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2728", "width": "1677", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0377.jp2"}, "378": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2885", "width": "1851", "jp2-path": "oddbitsoftravelw00tayl_0378.jp2"}}