{"1": {"fulltext": "Author\\nS.E\\n.Z.%1\\nTitle\\nImprint.\\n16\u00e2\u0080\u0094 -4737a-2 B\u00c2\u00bb 0", "height": "3508", "width": "2217", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3461", "width": "2238", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE\\nOF\\nHORSE TRAINING,\\no o N r A I N I N a\\nTHE HTSTOin OF TWENTY YEA]RS EXPERI-\\nENCE IN Tl?AJNliN(i HORSES AND RIJEAK-\\n1N(4 COl/rS: ALSO HINTS ON BRKAKING\\nSTEERS,.MANY VALl ABEE RECIPES,\\nC.\\nBy FIlANlv DONALD.\\nP.EKLIN, WIS.:\\nTRUKV AKNOl/n, P1UNTEU9.\\n1870.", "height": "2339", "width": "1643", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0006.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2334", "width": "1576", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0007.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0008.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION.\\nMany learned and elaborate works have been written\\nupon Iiorses, their breaking, driving and general man-\\nagement and also on their diseases and enres. Some\\nparts of these many works are very good, while others\\nare of no benefit whatever to the praetitioner, or to those\\nwho do not make it a business to break horses, but\\nyet break their own. On account of the great supply\\nof horse-doctoring books before the public, I have\\nmade it no point to write anything on the diseases and\\ncures of horses, although I have inserted a few recipes\\nsuch as I can recommend, and know to be good, by dai-\\nly use of them. But I wissh to introduce to the\\npeople, and especially the farmers, a work descriptive\\nof a new system of colt ))reaking and horse taming; a\\nwork which will be a benefit alike to the learned and\\nunlearned, and one wdiich has cost me much time and\\nlabor for the last twenty years and I trust I have\\nbrought to light a system as near perfect, in a j^raetical\\npoint of view, for handling colts and horses with ease\\nand safety, as any yet offered to horse owners. I have\\ncastrated and broke horses and colts in almost every\\ncounty in this State, and if my employers, and friends\\ntell me the truth, I have always given entire satis-\\nfaction, and they acknowledge that my system", "height": "2334", "width": "1576", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0009.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION.\\nis the system by which to break aiuJ train colts. My\\ncastriiting like my training, always speaks for itself.\\nIn a phi( e where I can get one job I can always get\\nmore another season.\\nHoping my new system will meet tlie approbation of\\nfarmers and horse; rais( rs, to such cheerfully le(li(;ate\\nand freely recouimend my little book and hoping every\\nperuser of it who has never given me the benetit of a\\ntrial, will do so at their earliest convenience and prove\\nfor themselves that I am no humbug.\\nFRANK DONALD.\\nBbrlin, Wis.", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0010.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "SCIENt^E OF HORSE TRAINING.\\nIn this ago of progression and iuiprovomont, why do\\nmen and boys persist in followi.:g th;it common and\\nharsli method of iiandling coltsV It is booausc they do\\nnot know nor seem to care to learn a better one. There\\nare a great variety of nvethods practiced by different\\nmen, and professed foUowers of Itarey, yet few, if any,\\nare ever successfnl in anything except teacliing others\\nwhat tliey tliemselves can not do. I cltiim to have found\\nthe true scicret of horse training. After twenty years\\nof ])ractical experience, liavi..g handled n(;arly thrive\\nthousand horses, 1 have learned that all the systems\\nwhich have been tauglit by traveling trainers who have\\ninfested the country for the past few years, iiave been\\nfailures so far as they have pretended to learn all per-\\nsons to be horses tamers, jxnd that they themselves have\\nfailed in bringing a really unmanagable horse or colt to\\na perfect state of subjection or usefulness. There are\\nbut few persons who hav(! the nerve to go into a small\\nenclosure with a wild or vicious colt. It is much easi\\ner to have the animul brought to them to a tent or barn\\nthan to catch it and lead it there, which but few of our\\nprofessional horse tamers ever attempt to do. J. S.\\nliarey has given the easiest method of getting a colt in-\\nto an enclosure, iu his book pamphlet on Horse Tam-\\ning, pages 7-8; few, however, have the patience, to", "height": "2334", "width": "1566", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0011.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "8 SCIEXCE OF nORSE TRAINING.\\ncatch and baiter it wben there. In going near an un-\\ntamed colt to halter it, you are in danger of being in-\\njured in various ways. In the first place, your colt has\\nnever been conquered and will make every endeavor to\\nget away, or in its fright show light, and drive you\\nfrom the yard or barn as the case may be. If you are\\nfortunate enough to get a halter on the beast you may\\nnot be able to hold it. If it starts from you the ten-\\ndency is for it to rear and f;xll over backwards. If you\\ntry to pull it along, it will l)racc back and pull you\\nflongwithit. If you attempt to take up its foot it\\nwill strike or kick, and you having no means of defease\\nare in danger of being hurt. You have no way of siib-\\ndiiiug the colt without runniiig a great risk of injury\\nbeing done both to yourself and the colt. .All trainers\\nsay you must throw the colt to subdue it and they teach\\nvarious ways to do this, but do not tell how the person\\nwho has the work of catching, su))daing and educating\\ncan do it witliout danger. No way lias been tauglit to\\nmake the colt follow you witliout tlic use of a whip or\\nby jerking the under jaw with a small cord methods\\nvery harsh and cruel and wdiich have sjjoiled many good\\nhorses; no way taught of compelling baulky horses to\\ngo or of curing them of that most vexatious liabit no\\nway to preventahorse from puUingat thehalteror bridle\\nor to make it stand when left alone in the field, or to\\nprevent it fnmi kicking the hor.se he stands beside, or\\nfrom carrying its head to one side when in the harness,\\nor to stand quiet while being shod, or to keep it irom\\nkicking while at wor-k in the harness. The methodi\\nwish to introduce to the public is new and safe, it does\\naway with the old, brutal style of jerking the animaFs\\nmouth by a cord until the blood runs, or of throwing\\nit dovyn, which treatment it does not understand and\\ncan not be made to understand.\\nIf you wanted your child to perform some service\\nwith which he was unacquainted, because he did not do\\nit immediately at your word of command, you would", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0012.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "SCIKNCK or HOKSK TK.MNINO. 5\\nWdt xise harsh and unseemly means to make him do it^\\nbut you would sU )w hini how or give; liim sueh instruc-\\ntions us would eiialile him to fully understand, what you\\nro((uire, I think it no more than fair tliat wc should\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2ijive the (iunib Itea^ts an equally goo(3 ehunco to learn\\nwhat you want them to do. When this is done we\\nshall have fewer maimed liorses, and horses with hrok-\\non legs, from cruel punishment iufli :tetl for disobedi-\\nence in(5uced by the horse not comprehending what is\\nwanted of him. The horse is a very obedi(;nt animal\\nif by proper treatment it is made to understancf what is\\nwanted of it. It is a good idea to make the horse un-\\nderstand that you mean what you say, and must he\\nobeyed. Better to take half an hour to make your liorse\\nunderstand a command than to h t him go without un-\\nderstanding it. The instinct of the horse is what rea-\\nson is to man. We reason fr(mi cjiuse and effect, and it\\nis much the sanu with the horse. If we .say whoa,\\nto the liorse and hav(! the power to make him stop and\\nstand still, he will soon learn that whoa, means .stop,\\nand stand still. If you hurt him in .stoppir.g it will\\nmake him out of temper and hi- will not oi)ey you\\nreailily or with good gr.ice. A horse will also soon learn\\nwhen you are out (d temper by the .sound of your voice.\\nHow (iocs he learn thisv almost invariably in this way;\\nVon speak quicker and in a higher key at the same\\ntime hurting him (itlier with th(- whip or by severely\\njerking the bits, and whenever he hears that peculiar\\ntone of voice he is frightened for he thinks he will be\\nhurt, and ho is then entirely incapabb; of understand-\\ning what you want. At all times keep your temper,\\nand practice patience and perseverance. My experi-\\nence teaches me that no colt is properly broke unless\\nhe is thoroughly conquered and not hurt in so doing.\\nIf you hurt him in subduing, he hates you if you ca-\\nress him, when he gives up he will think you are his\\nfriend still. Ifyoulassoa colt by the neck, which is\\nvery often done, it will be a long time before he will", "height": "2334", "width": "1566", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0013.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "10 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING.\\niiave ccnfideFiCO in you as lassoiiig produces the most\\nunplca?ant fccliigs imnginaMe. If yf ii hurt his mouth\\nhe will be tifraid to have it touched, and may pros e\\nvery troublesome about mauaglng.\\nTO GET A COLT INTO A BARN.\\nThere are hut few colts but what ca.i be induced to\\ngo into the barn yird, but this is scarcely \u00e2\u0096\u00a0the place to\\ntrain a colt unless it is very small. I have always found\\nthe barn floor the niDst suital)le and convenient place to\\nhandle a colt, but to g(;t him into the l)arn is generally a\\ntask of no small magnitude, that is, without seriously\\nalarming and worrying him. There are several means\\nwhich cm besucccssfnily used, such as driving him i.ito\\nthe birn in company with one or more old horses or gently\\ndriving him in alone l)y slowly working toward the\\nbarn door, letting him take his time to get fimiliar\\nwith everythiag tint miy appear suspicious or alarm-\\ning to him. Make no movement on your part to alarm\\nhim, by throwing up the arms, runui ;g to head iiim oif,\\nor speaking sharply. If he sh )uld run by you once do\\nnot make matters worse by trying to st )p him, but let\\nhim go, and work around him agiin. It is well known\\nthat the horse is naturally a timid a liniil, aud tryi ig to\\nforce him into the birn will excite his fears and make\\nhim think it necessary to eseape at all hazards for the\\nsafety of his life. In one instance I had a colt which\\nno amount of coaxing or driviiig could get into the barn\\n80 I had both doors thrown wide open, and placed a man\\nat the o])posite door out of sight of the colt. The colt\\nseeing a chance to get away from me made a dash\\nto go through the barn, but as soon as he was inside we\\nsuddenly closed both doors and we had our colt.\\nFIRST PROCESS OF BREAKING COLTS.\\nLet the barn be clear from all obstructions. After\\nthe colt is in the barn let him alone a few moments, to\\nallow him to examine the floor and all unfamiliar ob-\\njects then go in with a bow whip or switch aad walk", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0014.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "SCTEXCE OF nonSE TRAINING. 11\\nnronrul ;i few iii -nicntH after the colt, or until lie be-\\ncoiucs quiet. iS ow take a half-inch rcipe aljout thirty\\nfeet long, tie a ring in the end of it for the rope to run\\nthrouglj to fm-ui a noose. Place the nooKC in the cor-\\nner of the Ijarii far enough back for the colt to stand\\nhis lij t fore j ito:. inside it. By driving him around a few\\ntimes he can be mad(! to step inside it. If possible, ap-\\nproach within ten or fifteen feet of th( colt and jerk the\\nrope so as to ciitch the loop around his leg Ijelow the\\nknee. Ashe f-els. then opo tig iten he will jump and\\n[).-ob:t!)ly re:ir and kick. i)o not try to hold any tight-\\n.er than to keep the r;ipe from slipping until the colt\\nfinds tint he can not get ;i\\\\v;iy from it.. Kee|) as near be-\\nhind liiui as possit)le, as lie can not strain himself in the\\nleast when you are pulling from Ijehind, or in front.\\nYou need not speak until (he colt gives tip, for the less\\nnoise the belter As soon, after the colt is caught, as he\\nwill stand still enough i or you to move back and forth,\\nstep arountl l)ehind liim and draw the rope around his\\nhind legs abf)ve the gambrels and tighten it. If he\\nattempts to jumi), speak gently to him saying, whoa,\\nand li !d him, as you iiave the power to do .so. Now\\nstart iiim forward and when he has taken a few steps\\nsay, whoa, and pull the rope up enough so tiiat he can\\nnot take a step. Win n he finds he can not go make hiin\\nstep one iiind foot over the rope keeping it still around\\nthe hind leg on the same side as the fore leg to which\\nthe rope is attatched. Walk around toward his head\\nvery quietly and keeping the rope tight above the gam-\\nbrel. Caress him gently, rub him on the fore shoulder\\nand down tlie f)re l;g, along the side, and down the hi:. d\\nleg. He can n )t ki(;k or str.k- unless he jumps. When\\nyou have him sufficiently usid to your movements about\\nhim, put on tlie guard. 1 do n(;t think a horse is\\nproperly broke without the use of tliis. The guard is\\na strap one inch and a half in width with a ring in it,\\nthe strap being long enough to go around the horse s\\nleg. Buckle onearoundthe forelecr above the knee, and", "height": "2334", "width": "1566", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0015.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "12 gOIEWCK or ilOKSK TKAINING.\\none on tbe bind leg below tbo gambrel. Pass a thmf\\nquarter rope or strap through the ring on the fore itvg\\nfrom tbe front side and fasten it to tbu strap on the fund\\nleg. Tbe rope should Ix; about fourteen feet long.\\nTurn tbe rope around fron\\\\ tbe under side so as to form\\na kink in tbe rope behind tbe ring on tine fore leg and.\\nkeep a firm bold on tlie end of the rope. Thus you have\\ntbe eolt completely in your po\\\\,ver. As be can not get\\naway you ciu\\\\ compel hinii to stand as you please. He\\nean neitlxr go ahead, back, nor sideways. If you draw\\ntbe rope tight it draws th(^ hind fodt up to tbe knee and\\nlearns him to stand to be shod without leaab g upon tbe\\nsmith as sonu; horses do. You can now take your smalt\\nrope off and put the noose oviT tbe coH s neck, and ])ut\\nsmall stra]) around the under jaw under the tongue and\\nthrough the ring on tbe rope. Place the top of the\\nrope back of the crest of tbe neck. You can handle his\\nhead now at will, and do it very gently. While you\\nhave this guard on you can accustom him to tbe sigbt\\nof buffalo robes, Idankets, etc.,. by bri.iging them be-\\nfore him, laying them on bis back, and otherwise show-\\ning him they will not barm liim. If you wish to break\\nhim to ride, jump upon his back, slide off on bis gam-\\nbrels, etc., until he submits to be bandied all over and\\nstands still. Now put tbe guard on tbe off bind leg,\\nfasten tlx; small rope to the nigh fore leg below the\\nknee. One end is already on the neck and jaw. the\\nguard still remaining but long enough to allow the\\ncolt to take a natural step. Pull lightly on the rope\\nthat runs to his jaw, and give a smart pull on tbe fore\\nleg which will compel the colt to step ahead. You\\nhave not tbe power to pull the colt along by the bead,\\nbut you have by the leg by pulling a little sideways.\\nA severe pull on the bead will most generally cause the\\ncolt to rear, but a light ])ull on the head at the time of\\npulling forward tbe foot, will (!stablish the fact with\\nthe colt that it would be useless for him to 2)ull on a bri-\\ndle or halter. When you pull the colt toward you say,", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0016.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 13\\nCome here, .nui lie will soon Icmn that those words\\nmean for him to coum to you. When he comes close\\nup, caress him, with a rub ou the head, beneath the\\neyes, etc. If you wish your liorse to follow the crack\\nof the whip, cr.ick a whip as you pull him toward you\\nuntil he will come at that .sound alone. Let the colt\\nrest often or he will become tired and sullen.\\nIt might be well to say here that where the colt has\\nbeen used to running into the staljlc, sheds, or other out-\\nbuildings, drive several in at onceandthen separate l he\\none you wish to catch from the otln rs. Make him step\\ninto the noose before mentioned and hold liiin until the\\nothers can be driven out. If you wi.sh to take him to\\na .other ^tab]e or more convenient place before com-\\nmencing work, put a halter on him, and \\\\r-dd another\\nhorse, harnessed, sideways to the door on the outside,\\nwhich will prevent the colt from making his escape.\\nHitch tiierope on the colt s leg to the hame-ring of the\\nharness on the other horse aiul then work the colt along\\ntoward the horse at the door. When neai- Puough tie\\nthe halter-stale al.so in the hame-ring leaving the halter\\na little the hmgest so as not to pull the colt s head first.\\nBack up the horse and swing him around, thus jjulling\\nthe colt from the stable. Keep on the op|K)site side id\\nthe lior.-;c from the cojt so as not to frighten him and\\nyou can soon lead him to a safe place for treatment,\\n(\u00e2\u0080\u00a2are must be taken in handling colts in a low stable to\\nprevent them from injuring their heads by rearing\\nwhile you are pulling on the rope.\\nTO I EAltN THE COLT TO STAND.\\nPlace the colt in a narrow stall, containing a strong\\nhitching ring placed three or four feet above the floor.\\nPut a good halter on the colt one you can depend upon\\nRun the halter-stale through the ring from the back\\nside and down to a strap buckled to the nigh fore leg\\nabove the knee, leaving tBe stale long enough to allow\\nthe colt to stand back three feet, and the guard on the", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0017.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "14 SCIENCE OP UOUSE TRAINING.\\noff legs rather sliort, and- then let him pull all he can.\\nHe can not hurt his h( ;ul by pulling us the act lifts o.e\\nof his main braces from the floor. The guard prevents\\nhim from pawing or rearing. Some colts will paw or\\nrear when left alone, or will kick the stall, whicii wili\\nbe prevented by p utting the guard on both f^ides iilike.\\nIf necessity com] els you to stand horses together tliat\\nare sharply shod, put a guard on each horse on the in-\\nside and it will .save you a maimed horse. If you wish\\nto leave y.iur horses in the field, or wish to have tliem\\nstand without Ixnng liitchcd, put the guard on the out\\nside l( gs very short and they can not run. Of course\\nthey will require some watching at fir.st.\\nTO LEARN A COI T TO KEIN.\\nThis is the most imjjortant pirt of a colt s education.\\nNo colt is pleasant to rid\u00c2\u00ab or drive unless he follows the\\nrein perfectly. There arc but few persons who have\\nnot .some. little experience in driving horses, and they\\nknow how their tempers have been tried when trying\\nto shun obstructions. They rein one side and the horse s\\nhead comes around, while the position of the body is\\nunchanged. Prompt obedience to the rein should be\\ntaught the colt from the beginning. J think I can safe-\\nly say that thi-re is not one man in a thousand who un-\\nderstands how to learn a c.nlt to rein properly. The\\nmethod commonly practiced is to pass the rein through\\nthe turrets on the b;ick-pad and to the bit. nnd then try\\nto turn the colt l)y pulling one rein or the other, which\\ngenerally gives the impression that you want him to\\nback, as it pulls the liit into his mouth. It ahso frets\\nthe horse and makes his mouth sore. My method of\\nteaching a colt to rein is to first show him how. Use a\\ngood leather bit with large cheek pieces which will not\\ndraw through the mouth. Fasten the rein into the ring\\nof the bit, and arcmnd the^ore leg below the knee on\\nthe same side. Take the line running to the bit with\\none hand, and the one running to the leg with the oth-", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0018.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "sciKNCR ov nonsi: rn.MNixa. 15\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0or. St(\\\\nd in front and to ono side say to liira, Come\\ntii-ound, iind pull on each stri .p lift the li g up and\\npull it sidinvajs, pnlling lightly on the rein so iie will\\nnot turn his lu^ad sid(!way^ as you make him cnn o\\nJiround. As you turn him kr-o]) stopping further hack\\niiutU you oa tt .rn him by pulling th e rein against his\\nflank. The pull on the l it should amount to a very\\nlightjerk. Aft(!r the colt will turn one way hy merely\\npulling with y-ur thumb a d fi^iger, phiee the rein on\\nthe other leg und lt^;irn him to t?uru tiie other v\\\\-ay also,\\nPulling the c )lt sideways by the leg shows him how to\\nlift uj) his feet to .step around, which can not l e done in\\nany other way. Wiien your cgit. turns readily, tsdce the\\nrein from the leg and fastca it to tlic other side of the\\nhit. Now stand on the near side at theshoulder; throw\\nthe off rein over the lilps and aijiive the g unhreU with\\nthe right hand, keej)ir g a firm hold on the hit with the\\nleft hand, to keep him from jun.jpijig ahead when you\\npull on the oft r( in, as it draws aroui d the flank. You\\nshould now turn the head fnuu you l)y pidling with a\\nfirm hand o.; the off rein. Keep turning him around\\nuntil he steps otf-quarely frmu you. Now change sides\\na .d priecied as before. When the colt learns to .step\\nsideways with nit turning his head, step away from him\\nand tell liim to g). If ]\\\\v. does not move pull him short\\ntoone side as he steps, giving him the rein loose. If he\\ntries to get away turn his head toward you, and as he\\ngets part way round you can stop him short by pulling\\nthe rein furtherest from you arouiul his gatrdjrels, hold-\\ning the other rein tight. By keej)ing the reins below\\nthe hips when driving him around you can prevent him\\nfrom turning his head around toward j ou, as he will\\nvvhc;! the reins run through the turrets. If you wish\\nto turn him to the left, step to the right side and pull\\nquickly with the left rein it being down as low as the\\nfla ik. By following these .directions you can learn a\\ncolt to step squarely and promptly to one side. When\\nyou pull ou the rein, as it learns him to step his fore", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0019.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "16 SCIENCE OP HOIiSB; TRAINING.\\nfeet to one side, and his liind feet to the other, you can\\neasily turn your liorse around on a space four feet\\nsquare.\\nTO UITCH Ul* A COI.T.\\nHere is the secret of having a quiet and trusty horse.\\nVery often we hear men say, My colt needs no brenk-\\ning. Tlie hoys can easily hitch him up. It is very\\nmuch like pUu-ing n peison ui)f)n a locomotive who is\\ntotally nnac(|u;iiiit( d witli it, or never saw one. lie may\\n.set it in motion but that is as far as his ability extends;\\nhe is incajjable and powerless to run it. A horse is\\nnever thoroughly broke or entirely .safe until he is con-\\nquered and learned vvh:it you want of him. The first\\nimpression a colt gets lasts the longest. Tie should\\nnever be hitched up with another horse until he has\\nbeen driven alone with the reins, and then plac(Hi in a\\nheavy pair of shafts with one end to drag ujion the\\nground, which will prevent him from backing and learn\\nhim the use of the thills at the same time. I he guard\\nshould be put on when the colt is first placed in the\\nshafts, as it will prevent him from running away or\\nkicking, until he g ts accustomed to the hnrness, shafts\\nand otlua- things ai)out him; also, when hitched to any\\nthing which frightens him, it prevents his rearing or\\nkicking. A horse kicks, rears and frets more from fear\\nin the first j)lace, and thenceforth from habit. A horse\\nwill soon learn to go cpiiet by wearing the guard short\\nat first, and longer when you wish him to go faster. I\\nwill give the reason why .some horses baulk and kick,\\nand some fret. First, you make your horst; fret by\\ncompelling or allowing him to go fast when first iiitch-\\ned up. Often we hear the remark, When you get the\\ncolt started, let him go, or he will t)aulk. You get\\nyour colt started the best you can and then have to use\\nthe whi]) to keep him moving. The whip frightens the\\ncolt and he .starts into a trot or run which causes the\\nwagon to rattle, or whatever vehicle he may be hitched", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0020.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OF HOKSE TRAINING. 17\\nto, and he is frightened still more; he commences to\\nkick, or fret, and soon your colt is reduced in vsilue or\\nspoiled entirely, for a fr(!tting, kicking horse is useless\\nto every one, except, perhaps, the jockey. With such\\nniiinner of treatniei.t almost any colt will learn to be-\\n-ome vicious, an l it is almost certain to make Ijaulky\\nh lrses, because you have i)een used to starting them\\nqiiick and at a rapid pace, and when hitched before a\\nJoad and find they can not start a.s usual, Hy back and\\nr :fuse togi). Soon you have some thing more ob.stinate\\nto deal with than a wild colt a baulky one.\\nTO MAKE A HORSE GO.\\n1 think there is no record of anyone using anything\\nto make a colt go. The Spanish halter, cords, whips, or\\nanything which can be put upon a horse s head or neck\\nmay be used, but they will not comj)el him to move.\\nSome jerk the colt along by the under jaw, but he only\\nmoves because it is extreme torture, nor does it learn a\\ncolt what is wanted of him. My experience on horses\\nfor th( pa.st twenty years has been the; meaJis of my\\nbringing out a system to be used l)y all in breaking\\ncolts. Some of the Spanish ranchc men know the pow-\\ner they have over a horse when they can lasso him by\\nthe fore leg with what ease they Ciin hold the most\\nI)owerful wild horse. Most severely h.as my patience\\nbeen tried, when I have attempted to lead a colt across\\na ridge, or into a barn, or tried to lead him while rid-\\ning nnothcr horse. I can obviate all these difficulties\\nsimply by a means I have of compelling a horse to go.\\nIf you wish to ride a horse and lead a colt, uekle a\\nstrap around the fore leg of the colt above the knee;\\nhitch a rope or strap to it, and the other end around the\\nhorse s neck, leaving the loop as large as the collar should\\nbe. Have the strap between the horses long enough for\\nthe colt to travel when he comes up even with the horse.\\nFasten a strap to the colt .s bit and to the girt of your\\nhorse, so he can not get too far ahead. Take your horse\\nby the head and turn him around a few times until the", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0021.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "18 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING.\\ncolt finds he has to step. Then mount your horse and\\nswing around towards the colt, and then start him off,\\nand you will have no further trouble. When you first\\nhitch a colt to a loaded wagon, fasten the strap from his\\nleg to the breast-ring of the other horse, which should\\nbe a gentle, well broken one. Start your team by turning\\nfrom the colt start the load by a stay chain on the\\nbroken horse s end of the evener. As soon as the colt\\nhas taken a few steps, say Whoa, stopping him. Ca-\\nress him and let him have time to think, as it were.\\nStart him by a word given to the other horse, and do\\nnot frigliteu him Ijy a display of the whip but keep\\nthat still. Walk him along as gently as possible, but\\nif he begins to prance, or plunge, or exhibit any signs\\nof fear, stop him instantly and let him know that he\\nmust go quiet. The lead-strap on his leg will compel\\nhim to go if he should hang back or refuse to step, and\\nwill also prevent him from swinging away from his\\nmate. When you have your team started, get into the\\nwagon and drive about as you please. The Iiorse will\\nalways be able to draw the colt along if he attempts to\\nstop, for he can not brace buck enough to stop the\\nhorse, and soon he will learn that it is useless to make\\nany such attempts. If he shows any signs of kicking\\nput the guard upon his outside legs and he will soon\\ngive that up, too. The guard will also learn him to\\nstand when stopped. Care should be taken to uncheck\\nthe colt when you stop him so that he may rest easy.\\nCAUTION.\\nI would say here that in hitching up a team which\\nis uneasy and will not stand still, fasten the neck-yoke\\nto the pole of the wagon, or sleigh, with a strong strap\\nso they can not start ahead after you have hitched one\\ntug, letting the tongue fall and frightening themselves.\\nWhile hitching a colt onto a wagon, he will very often\\nswing around away from the pole. In such a case I fast-\\nen a strap into the end of the tug. Standing on the op-\\nposite side, raise the tug above the gambrel and pull", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0022.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 19\\nhim toward the pole, and say, Stand in, as you pull\\nhira in. Hitch the outside tug first, so he can not\\nswing out while you are hitching the remaining\\ntug.\\nTO LEARN A COLT TO BACK\\nis a very easy matter if you know how to doit. But\\nvery few horses will hack without the aid of the lines.\\nNo one can learn a horse to back by jerking on the bits.\\nA very common way to learn a colt to back is to get\\nhim on a sidehill and jerk the bits, letting the load pull\\nhim back. Some say that you must press tlie hand against\\nthe front part of the arm, but this is useless, as it\\nsimply hurts the colt and does not show him what is re-\\nquired. I never spend more than twenty minutes, on an\\naverage, in learning a colt to back. With only the jjres-\\nsure of my finger on the bit, or rein, I can make any\\nhorse liack, which I never saw any one else do. I do\\nnot wish it understood that other men c^n not break a\\ncolt as well as myself, for we have a great many good\\nhorsemen in the country, who will teach a horse almost\\nany thing desired, but I wish the public to understand\\nthat my treatment does not liurt a colt, and he will\\nlearn what is wanted of him in one quarter of the time\\nit will take him to learn the same by the treatment he\\nwill receive from other meji who liave written about, or\\ntaught in public how to train colts, or drive liorses.\\nTo show a colt how to back, and to compel him to do\\nso, place a strap, or rope, around the front pastern, hav-\\ning it long enough to enal le you to stand behind the\\ncolt. Take the lilies in one hand, and witli the other\\ngrasp the rope. Pull his foot back under him which\\nwill cause liim to take a step backward, as it throws\\nhim oft* his balance, and he can not step forward. As\\nhe begins to move backward pull lightly on the reins,\\nMake him step a few steps backward, and then start\\nhim ahead as far as he went back. Tell him to back,\\ncalling his name, and if he does not step back readily,\\npull his foot back with a strong pull. Keep him at", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0023.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "210 SCIENCE OF lioRSE TRAINING.\\nthis until he backs at the word. It is better to havf\\na well broken horse with him when learning to back !)o\\nfore a wagon. Care should be taken when your colt is\\nlearning to back, tiiat he does not back too far, nor toi\\nfast. A colt should not move a distance exceeding his\\nown length at the word Back. If he backs too fast,\\ntouch him with the whip, or let your other horse stop\\nhim, if hitched before a wagon. I have known men to\\nspend boors trying to back a sullen colt out of a narrow\\nstall. They would coax, jerk with a cord attached to\\nthe under jaw, whip over the head and shoulders, and\\ntry to push him oat by main f )rce, but all to no pur-\\npose they could not conspel him to back out. if a\\nboy ten years old should put a strap on his fore log he\\ncould pull him out, by drawing tlje strap across the\\nedge of the stall for a purchase.\\nTO l.EAKN A COI/r TO GO STEADY,\\nhe should be learned to walk with a loose rein, which\\nis a difficult thing to do with a high spirited animal.\\nBut there is no horse in existence tlvat ctii not !\u00c2\u00bbe learn-\\ned to do this with proper treatment. I once found a\\nhorse that would prance from nu)rning till night, Ijoth\\nbefore a loaded and an empty wagon and he\\ncould not be induced to sober down to a walk, al-\\nthough frequently covered Avith sweat and foam. I\\ntried my method, and learned him to walk in less than\\na half day. I place the guard on, one end running back to\\nthe carriage. When the horse starts to trot, or prance,\\nI speak to him, saying, Whaa, and draw him up so\\nhe can not take a jjrancing step. If he gets very nerv-\\nous I pull on the guard and stop him until he gets qui\\net. Start him gently if he goes quiet, with the reiu\\nloose, I stop and caress him. Let him know that it is\\nwhat you want of hira. After he gives up prar.cing,\\nwhen you say Whaa, unhitch him and let him rest, as\\nsome horses fret only when they are tired. One import\\nant thing you should learn is the difference between\\nWhoa, and Whaa. The former means to stop and", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0024.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OF HORSE TnAINIKG 21\\nstiind the latter, to go steadily. Some men say\\nWh-o-o-o-o for the latter, arid Wlioa, when they\\nd(!sire the horse to stop, not making difterenee enough\\nbetween the two words to make it jjerceptible to tlic\\ncolt, and then because he does not readily obey he is\\nseverely dealt with. I do not believe in tlie frequent\\nuse of the whip, yet all colts should not be handled\\nalike. A sullen, stubborn colt should sometimes have\\na good sharp cut with the wiiip, but a severe whipping\\nwould make, him more stubborn, and even vicious. If\\na eolt is very sullen, and it is mo.st apt to be the case\\nwhile learning to back, the best way to remedy it is to\\nallow him to stand a while and then work upon hira\\nagain, I have worked with eolts until they were very\\nwarm and tired, so they wouhl neither rein nor baek,\\nnor auythiiig else I wished, withcnit using means to\\ncompel them but aft(;r putting on the guard and letting\\nthem rest for half an hour, or uiore, they would\\nobey without any trouble. There is little use in trying\\nto learn a colt anything when he is tired. You mu.st\\nhave patience if you would have kind and obedient\\nliorses, as a great many colts are spoiled by not takiirg\\ntime enough to break them. I repeat what I have al-\\nready said, exercise patience, and perseverance, and\\nkeep your temper, foi* the colt has enough to do to un-\\nderstand what you want of him, and is frightened\\neiuHigh with the jjroeeediiigs and strange objects around\\nhim, without your frightening him .still more l)y your\\nirritating voice and manners. Besides, when you are\\nangry you can not use proper judgment in handling a\\nliorse. You will blanie him for wh.at you are yoursi^lf\\nto blame. If you undertake to make a horse do a\\nthing, tirst sIk^v him how, and then persevere until you\\naccomplish the task, for if the horse beats you once he\\nwill try uiuch harder to do so again,\\nTO PKEVENT A HORSE PROM CARRVINO lltS HEAD TO\\nONE SIDE.\\nTo prevent this bad and unsightly practice on the", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0025.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "20 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TKAINIKO.\\npart of the horse while V ein r driven, has Ixcn the\\nstudy of many horsemen. The ])eanty of many a\\nmatched team is marred by one or Ijoth of them carry-\\ning his head to one side. Few men know how to pr\\nTent it. Many, while ph)wing, have a peg, or l rad fast-\\nened to the ojjposite horse, in such a manner that it\\nwill goad the side of the crowding horse, but this gets\\nthe team in the habit of kicking, oftener than it cures\\nthem of the other hal)it. Some farmers pay large sun\u00c2\u00abs\\nto jockeys to train tlieir carriage horses because they do\\nnot know how to do it themselves. I have known large\\nsums to t e offered l)y men who drove the l)est l\u00c2\u00bblooded\\nhorses to have them taught to carry their heads straight\\nwith their bodies. They ut on. tlie Ijitting harness,\\ndraw their heads up and draw them down, pull up thr\\nside braces, but all to no pui pose they are tlie same\\nstill. They want their horses to spread on the carriage,\\nand w-ant the nigh horse to keep iar enough away from\\nthe offone so the plow Avill run well to land, wlule plow-\\ning but know of no Avay to liring around the desired re-\\nsults. I will try to ex] lain how I prevent this disagree-\\nable habit, for I can call it nothing but a habit. Take\\na hickory stick, or one of some other tough timber,\\nabout three-fourths of an inch thick, having a knob on\\none end, or a pin through one end will do, so it will\\nnot draw through the turret-ring on the back-pad.\\nPass the stick through the ring from tlie back side,\\nthrough the ring on the hame, and tie it to the bit on\\nthe off side, if it is the nigh horse that crowds, and to\\nthe nigh side if it is tlu off horse. A horse will\\nnot crowd unless he turns his head to one side, and this\\nl)race prevents him from doing this. If your horses do\\nnot go far enough apart, you can make them do so by\\nputting one of these Vjraces on the inside of each horse,\\nand make your inside lines long enough to let them\\nspread apart. It will not prevent them from turning\\ntheir heads in an opposite direction, as tiie brace wall\\nslide through the rings and allow them to turn easily.", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0026.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE .OF HORSE TRAINING. 33\\nTliP end that comes next to the bit should be light\\nciunigh to spring a little, as it will make it more endur-\\nable tor the horse. It is a very good plan to put one of\\ntliese braces on a colt while learning him to drive sin-\\ngle, as it keeps his head straight with his body, and is\\nfar better than to tear his mouth with the bitting har-\\nness, such as is used by a majority of people in break-\\ning horses. Such harness should be banished to the\\nbarn garret, or some other place where they can not be\\nused in tonuenting a colt, and a more humau\u00c2\u00ab course of\\ntreatment sliould take its place.\\nTO BRIDLE X COLT\\nwhich tries to strike, rear, or throw himself back when\\nyou touch his mouth. Some colts, and even old horses\\nhave these faults. They can be easily broken up if you\\ndeal mildly with the horso. By fastening him in the\\nsame manniT as you would a horse that pulls at the halt-\\nter, that is, pass the halter through the hitching ring\\nand fasten it to the fore leg, above the knee, short\\nenough to keep him close to the manger, which pre-\\nvents him from holding his head too high, and he can\\nnot strike nor crowd j ou against the stall. To hold the\\nhorses head around toward you while putting in the\\nbit.s, rub the palm of the hand down the side of the\\ncolt s head until you can get the ends of your fingers\\nbetween his lips, in the corner of the mouth. Then\\npress the thuml) against the outside, and the fingers weW\\nup inside. Be careful not to get your fingers betw^een\\nthe animal s teeth. With this hold upon a horse you\\ncan bring his head toward you and open his mouth at\\nthe same time by spreading the two fingers in his mouth.\\nUse the left hand when on the nigh side, putting the\\nV)ridle on with the other, by crossing it above the left. This\\nis the easiest way of putting the bits into a colt s\\nmouth. Say, Take in, when you open his mouth, and\\nbe will soon learn to do it by speaking to him or touch-\\ning the bits to his lijis. If a boy wishes to bridle a", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0027.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "34 8cie:^ce of. horse training.\\nhigh-headed horse he can make him hohl down by tak-\\ning a turn arovuid beh)w the knee and drawing his head\\ndown in tliis way.\\nTO WOKK AN OLD, BAtTT.KY HORSE DOUBLE,\\nput the lead-strap from his knee to the breast-ring of the\\nother horse. If single, start him by a sharp })ull on\\nthe fore leg. You can have one thill spliced three fec t\\nbeyond the horse, with a ring or ])alley attached to the\\nend, ruiiningthe rope frmn his leg tlirougli tlie ring, or\\npulley; then you can pull him ahead from the cart or\\nwagon. Be quiet with him, as it is nervousness, and\\na lack of understandirg yi u, that makes him baulk, or\\nhe has been learned to baulk while being i)roken, or hurt\\nby a poor collar, or a sore breast.\\nTO DRIVE A KICKING HORSE\\nin shafts before a carriage. If you can not get one of\\nmy bits you can put on a common over-draw rein, which\\nis known as the Kimball Jackson chetrk, as Hiram\\nWoodruiT drove a horse owned by Jackson since I in-\\nvented it for my own use. It consists of a strap running\\nfrojn the bits, on each side of the nose, over the top of\\nthe head, and down to the cheek-hook, having a strap\\nrunning from the overdraw, along tlie back, through a\\nring fastened to the top of the crupper ar.d l)ranching\\noff to each end of the cross-bar of the thills; draw it\\ntight enough to keep your horse s head u]) high as lie\\nought to carry it. This over-draw, running fnun the\\nbit over the top of the head, to the cross-bar, and fast-\\nened, he can not kick, as that would throw up his head\\nby the upper jaw.\\nSHYING HORSES.\\nA few remarks about driving skittish horses may not\\nbe out of place here. Some horses shy from imperfect\\nvision, caused by wearing blinds, or blinkers, which have\\ninjured the sight to a great extent. Oth(;rs from ex-\\ntreme timidity, more apparent in some horses than in\\nothers others by driving them with a horse that is in", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0028.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING. 25\\ntlic habit of shying at every object along the roadside,\\nan a horse soon learns this habit from a mate. Often we\\nare told by persons avIio write on the subject, if a\\nhorse shies to make him go up to the frightening object,\\nand that he should touch it, or smell of it. This may\\ndo in some cases, but as a general thing I consider it\\nentirely wrong. It will but confirm the hal it. You\\nsiiould make your horse understajid that you are master,\\nand that he must obey you at alt times; that he must\\ngo where you direct that he must not be on the watch\\nfor something frightful. If he sees anything at which\\nto shy, he will turn iiis head towanls it, when you\\nshould give the o})posite rein a sharp pull, which will\\nattract his attention from the object, and prevent him\\nfrcmi turning out of the track. Your voice should nev-\\ner .shoAv fear, nor irrital)ility, but should he firm and de-\\ncisive. Always carry a good whip with such horses\\nand if they do not come to the rein, give them a sharp\\ncut with it (m the side opposite the oI)ject. The bit I use\\nthrows the horse s head up so his attention is attracted\\nfrom .small objects by the use of it. Some horses shy\\nonly from want of exercise, and will n(.t after having\\nbee n driven a short time. A good cut with the whip\\nwill, in this case, be of more service than anything else.\\nA horse should learn that he should not play wliile in\\nthe harneas. If he is allowed to do so he is unsafe to\\ndrive, by any but experienced horsemen. A boy or wo-\\nman can not drive him, for it reipiiresa strong arm to\\ncontrol a playing horse, and lie knows whether such\\nhave hold of the reins, and will ever take advantage un-\\nless well broken.\\nTO S.MIDI/E A C(\u00c2\u00bbLT.\\nSome colts will liecome accustomed to the use of the\\n.saddle readily, and with comparatively little trouble to\\nthe trainer, while others are very troul)lesome and re-\\nquire a vast amount of handling. In such cases, have\\nthe guard put on and held so that the colt can not get", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0029.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "26 SCIENCE OF nORSE TRAINING.\\naway. Take the .saddle in your hand, let him smell of\\nit, rub him with it along the sides, until he will stand\\nto have it tossed upon his back. Draw the girt up a lit-\\ntle at a time until he will let you draw it no tight\\nwithout flinching. Now draw the guard up short, take\\nthe reins i)i;tweeii your thumb and finger, drawing the\\noff rein abt)ut six inches -.shorter than the other, which\\nwill. make him turn his head from you, so he can not\\nstart ahead. When you raise yourself into the saddle\\nor .stirrup, if he tries to start, pull his head around to\\nhis .shf)uldcr, aad step down on the ground until he gets\\nquiet, and ag.ain raise yourself in the stirup, until he\\nwill allow you to put your knee over his back. If he\\n.starts, pull his head around quick, and he will not move\\nmuch. Let him feel your whole weight in the saddle,\\nand with some colt you will h;ive little more trouble,\\nwhile others are still not broken. With such, lengthen\\nout the guard aid hitch him to a well broken horse, by\\nthe leg, as you would to lead a colt ar.d ride a horse, as\\nspoken of before. 1 generally take him away from\\nhome, riding the broken horse and leading the colt by\\nhis side until he becomes accustomed to seeing a person\\nabove him while in motion. Ride four or five miles out\\non a walk, if necessary. Remove the guard as soon as\\nhe gets so he will go quiet at your side, and will let\\nyour foot touch him without flinching. When you start\\n])ack place tln guard on again, and mount him. While\\nhe is fast to the other horse, and the guard is on, he can\\nnot run, rear ncu plunge about, the guard preventing\\nthat, and the other horse making him go.\\nOne of my ovcr-dr.aw safety-reins is the best to ride\\na colt or horse with, as it makes him carry a graceful\\nhead and neck.\\nAfter you have ridden the colt half a mile, or such a\\nmatter, dismount and take the guard off to let your colt\\nrest a few moments. Mount again without replacing\\nthe guard. After he gets to going quietly, have some\\ncue ride the broke horse and take them apart. Watch", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0030.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "KCIEN CE O t IlORSti TRAIMKQ. 1^7\\nyour colt closely, and if he gets friglitened and tries to\\njump, or ruii,4)ull his head around to one side quick,\\nand hold it there until he gives up. If he tries to go\\nin a diflferent direction fri.ui what you wish, and will\\nnot follow the rein, pull his head around sideways so\\nhe can iiot step to one side. When he gets his head\\nturned the way you want him to go, let the rein loose\\nuntil he gets started. The best way is to ride hinv two\\nor three times in company with the horse you broke him\\nwitii, and if he gets restive or unmanagable, put the\\nlead-straps on again.\\nTO SHOK A KICKING HOKSE.\\nPlace the guard on. If you are alone you should han\\ndie the foot and make him stand on three legs, by pull-\\ning the h-ind leg up to the fore knee. You can take\\nhold of the rope that is fastened to the Iiind leg, with\\nf)ue hand, and hold the rope after it is passed through\\nthe ring on the tore leg raise the hind foot a few tinns\\n!)y the rope. If he tries to kick you hold him by the\\nother end of the rope, which you can do bj^ stef)pirig\\nbehind him. After he submits to have iiis foot han-\\nllcd, set the foot ujjon your knee, as you would to shoe\\nit. Let the rope out so you can get the foot back far\\nenough to work upon it. The rope prevents him from\\nthrowing his foot back of your lap. If he draws it for\\nward, tighten the rope as you come back toward his fore\\nleg. Shorten the rope to clinch tlie nails. If you have\\nhelp they can hold the rope and you can shoe the horse\\nwith ease.\\nTHE HABIT OF BITINO,\\nis one of the worst that a horse can have. No one ia\\nsafe around him. A person can guard against a horse\\nthat strikes by keeping to one side, can dodge his\\nheels, but if he is inclined to bite, he will get hold of\\nyou in spite of all you can do. You may whip him un-\\ntil he trembles from head to foot with fear of you, and\\nhe will turn around and nip you as soon as you turn", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0031.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "28 6C1ENCK OF HORSE TRAIRIKO.\\nyour back toward him. Many horses, and especially\\nKtallions, can not be led without the aid\u00c2\u00bbot a long bar,\\nattached to their bits, to keep them from turning and\\nbiting their leader. In some horses the hal it of bitiiig\\namounts almost to a species of madness, or insanity. I\\nhave overcome this great impediment to the agreeable-\\nness of taking care of horses, by a very simple means,\\nafter trying and exhausting every other method I eould\\nhear of. By learning the horse that his head or nose\\ngoes into the air when you cry Take care, with per-\\nseverance you can break up the habit. My plan is this:\\nStand in front or to one side of the horse and prevent\\nhim from biting yon, procuring first a small Idt made to\\nfit the roof of tiu Uioutli. (N. B. I always keep them\\non hand.) Put on an over-draw check, passing the over-\\ndraw through a loop fastened on the top of the halter,\\nwith the bit in the mouth. Let the bit be fastened .so\\nthere will be no danger of its dropping from the mouth.\\nThis bit will not prevent the horse from eating or\\ndrinking. Next, put on a surcingle, with a ring on tlu;\\ntoj) of the back Pass the end of the over-draw\\nthrough this ring and let it hang down by his side, hav-\\ning it long enough to permit his nose to reach the floor.\\nHave a leather on the end of the strap so it will not\\ndrop from the ring on the surcingle. As you come up\\nto the side of the horse, take hold of the strap, if the\\nhorse snaps at you or lears give the strajj a sharp pull,\\nand cry, Take care! You can draw his head up so it\\nwill be impossible for him to bite. It is something he\\ndoes not understand but he will soon learn its object.\\nThe worst biting horse can be lead by passing the end\\nof the lead-rein through the ring of the bit and fasten-\\ning it to the end of the over-draw, after the latter ha\u00c2\u00bb\\nbeen passed through the ring on the back.\\nTO THROW A HOUSE.\\nAs this is very often necessary in surgical operations\\nI will give the easiest way of doing it one in which", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0032.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "SCIENCE OP HOUSE TRAINING. 29\\nno risk will he run of injuring the horse, as is very\\nfrequently done by Harey s plan, as well as by other\\nmethods. I throw a horse in the same manner in which\\nhe lies down of his own accord. If a horse wishes to\\nlie on his left side, he steps his left hind foot forward,\\nand toward the right fore foot, and then drops on his\\nknees and is down. To force ahorse down, place a rope\\nor strap around the neck where the collar comes, loose\\nenough so it will not choke the horse, run the end be-\\ntAveen the fore legs, through a ring fastened to the left\\nhind pastern; from there to one around the right fore\\npastern, and the end over the back. Now strap up the\\nnigh fore foot and take hold of the rope with one hand\\nand pull on it, which will l)ringhim on his knees, and\\ndraw his hind foot urder him, which prevents him from\\nrearing, as he will when thrown by Karey s method, or\\nthe more inhuman way of pulling the animal s head\\naround to its shoulder by a cord attached to the under\\njaw, which strains his neck and throws him very vio-\\nlently some times. By my method, a colt unless he is\\nvery hard to handle, can be made to lie down in a double\\nNtall without danger of hurting him.", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0033.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "KEMARKS OK CASTRATINa\\nINHERE are differences of opinion as to the mode and\\ntime of castrating. I buve traveled through tlie coun\\ntry for the last tliirteen years and njade a business of\\ncastrating, and I find, by experience, and eh)so oI serva\\ntion, tliat the most approved method is that of chinip\\ning, or using two pieces of timber to fasten the cord.\\nThe best time is at tlie age of one, as a colt operated on\\nat that time makes the most perfect horse, yet, there is\\nno danger in castrating the animal at any age provided\\nhis blood is pure, and care is taken not to give him\\ntoo much pain. The only danger is in drawing his feet\\nfrom under him by means of a rope around the pasterns\\n\u00e2\u0096\u00a0which brings all the strain (mthe loins. The operation\\nof castrating should be performed by competent hands,\\nafter which the person who takes oif the clamps\\nshould pass his fingers around the cord and loosen it\\nfrom the membrane to which it sometimes adheres, and\\nit will readily draw up, unless it has been strained to in-\\njure its elasticity, and in such cases it will be necessary\\nto apply some powerful medicine, such as the Black\\nOil recommended in this work, which will take it back\\nto its place.\\nThere are but few persons who know how to stop the\\nblood where a horse is castrated, if he gets to bleeding\\nfrom any cause. Sometimes the veins on the cord get\\nruptured, and sometimes the cord itself gets torn, and\\n1 have known many instances in which colts have bled", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0034.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "VvEMAKKS ON CASTRATING. 81\\nto (l(^\u00e2\u0080\u00a2\\\\th, liocraiso tboir ownors were ignorant of a meth-\\nod .-)f .stopping th( in from l)}ecding. This may be done\\nby any one in a f(!\\\\v nionients by putting on the guard\\nto hold the coJt still, with raw cotton batting. Crowd\\ntli(! cotton into the cut around the cord, and draw the\\noutside skin tight over it, putting on a clamp to lioid\\nthe edges together. Let it remain on from twenty-four\\nto forty-eight iiours, acco -ding to the age of the horse.\\nIf the l)lood rUi.s up, causing it to swell much, rub it\\nwith eamphejie liniment a liniu)cnt every horse owner\\nshould have V)y him. I give a recipe for its maiuifacture\\nin tliis book. If the cord bleeds when the cotton is re-\\nmoved, try and take up the vein if you can not do it,\\nput more cotton in and go after some one wlio can.\\nI n( ver knew a case which could not Ije stopped by one\\napplication of the cotton, or needed any further care af-\\nter it was removed. The parts should be washed with\\n.sour nnlk before the rianoval of the cotton. Care must\\nnhvays betaken to keep the cord loose from the skin, as\\nit must not be allowed to grow fa.st. This has l)een\\nneglected I y miiny horse raisers, on account of the trou-\\nble encountered in handling the colt without throwing\\nhim, Imt my invention of the Guard will do away\\nv/ith that inconvenience, as any one can cut of the\\nclamps by cutting the strings on eacli end and prying\\nthe sticks apart. Be careful in taking olT the clamps\\nnot to pull down on tlie cord, as it is apt to hang down\\nif pulled when it is sore.\\nAny one desiring the services of tlie author of this\\nwork, may address him at his residence, at Berlin,\\nGreen Lake couiity, Wisconsin, stating their place of\\nresidence. He will come, for the sum of ten dollars, to\\nany place within fifty miles, to castrate, where there are\\nten colts at one phice. My method of casting is ex-\\npliiined in this work, rolling the colt on his back to\\nsu])port his loins, to castrate.\\nif my direct-ions are strictly followed after castrating,\\nI warrant the doiiig well of each colt.", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0035.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "HINTS ON BREAKING STEERS.\\nPlace them in a small inclosure from whicli they\\ncan not escape. Procure a half-inch rope twenty feet\\nlong and make a running noose at one end of it. Lay\\nit in one corner of the yard and drive your steers over\\nit until one of them steps his nigli fore foot into it\\nthen jerk it up around the leg, below the knee. After\\nyou catch the animal, if he is vicious, you can stand on\\nthe fence, or outside the yard and hold the rope until\\nlie gives up, or lead him up to a post and get liis mate\\nbeside him. But if not vicious, get into the yard with\\na good bow whip and follow him around a few times,\\nholding him back so that he can not go faster than a\\nwalk. After he goes quiet, come up to his side, within\\nreach of his nose, and say, Whoa, and stroke him\\nlightly on the nose, at the same time pulling on the rope\\nattached to his leg, standing as near behind him as your\\nwhip will admit of When he becomes quiet go up to\\nhis shoulder and pat him on the side If he starts away\\ntouch him on the nose and draw him up with the rojie\\nas before. Use the whip as little as possible and make\\nhim mind. After your subject will stand to be caressed\\nstart him ahead by a light blow with the whip around\\nthe iianks. Let him walk around the yard a few times,\\nturning him to the left. When you turn him touch him", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0036.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "HIKTS ON BREAKING STEERS 33\\nlightly with the whip on the near shoulder, whicli will\\nlearn him to turn toward the whip. If he refuses to\\nturn toward you, you have the power to compel him to\\ndo so by pulling his leg sideways. When you touch\\nhim with the whip keep him turning toward the left\\nand say, Haw, not Whoa, until he learns that\\nHaw means to turn to the left, and Wlioa, means\\nto stop and stand still. When he learns to stop readily\\nat the word Whoa, and to turn readily to the left at\\nthe word Haw, place the rope on the off fore leg arid\\ngo through the same process, saying Gee, when you\\nTurn him to the right. Always touch the ahimal on the\\nshoulder on the same side as the direction you wish him\\nto tui-n. After you have learned him to turn readily\\nAvith the rope, lay it over his back and make him go\\nthrough the exercise with the whip alone. If he gets\\nunruly, or ol^stinate you can catch the rope and jerk him\\nup. Now hang a bow upon his neck and drive him\\nwith it on then hang a cliaiu on and let the ends drag.\\nYou should also learn him to stand around when you\\nhave the rojie on by stepping around behind him and\\ndrawing the rope around his gambrels j nd pulling him\\nsideways, as by standing on the off side, with the rope\\nfa.stened to the nigh fore leg, drawing across the hind\\nleg. Learn him to back by drop23ing the rope close to\\nhis foot, standing behind and pulling his foot under\\nhim, and giving him a light stroke across the upper\\npart of fore leg, saying, Back, which will soon learn\\nhim to back readily at that word. Drive the animal\\nout of the yard, place hjm by himself, and put a guard\\non him in the same manner as you would on a horse,\\nmaking it rather short. Caress, and give him some-\\nthing to eat, and allow him to rest a little while, first\\nputting on and taking off the yoke a few times. Train\\nthe animal intended for the off side first. Now get the\\nnigh one in the yard and go through the same exercises\\nas with the first. W^hen that one is well tamed, length-\\nen the guard on the off animal and drive him into the", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0037.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "34 HINTS ON BKEAKING STEERS.\\nyard again. Then shorten the guard so he can not step\\nand pnt the yoke on. Let tlie end rest on the ground.\\nWalk around him and earess him while in this position.\\nThe guard will prevei.t liim from whirling around with\\nthe yoke, as they will .sometimes do, if no precaution is\\ntaken against it. After the off ox will submit to have\\nthe end of the yoke held up and dropp d. bring the\\nnear ox up beside him and yoke them together. The\\nbest way to learn an ox to come under the yoke is to\\nplace your off ox three or four feet from a post, tie a\\nrope to one end of the yoke and to the post, and then\\nelevate the other end of the yoke so the nigh ox can\\ncome under it. Stop him when under the yoke, and\\nput the bow in and caress him. Place a guard on the\\nnigh ox after you have them yoked, and let them ryst a\\nwhile, after which train the pair as you woukl one ox,\\ntaking off the guard and using the rope, on the nigh fore\\nleg otf the nigh ox when learning them to haw, and on\\nthe oif ox when learning them to gee. When you want\\nthem to haw, touch the nigli one on the four shoulder,\\nand the off one the .same. Caress more than you whip.\\nLoad lightly at first. Pay attention where you strike.\\nSpeak your words plainly and do not mix them up, thus\\nfor instance Whoa, back, hush, haw, as we very oft-\\nen heur, when some men are driving cattle. Learn your\\ncattle to Ijack by showing them how. When you stop\\nand want to leave your cattle put a guard on each one.\\nWhen you wish to unyoke oxen, start them forward\\nalways calling by name the ox yon wi.-^h to move.\\nLearn this method and practice it and you will have\\nkind oxen", "height": "2308", "width": "1533", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0038.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "DONALD S PRACTICAL RECIPES.\\nTO TEl.Iv A riOIlSi: S AGE.\\nAfter horses are five years old they liave a ring\\naround the tail near the u])per part of it, and every five\\nyears after a similar one appears.\\nDISTEMPER.\\nTake sulphur halfoz., a.saf(etida, liipiorice powdered,\\nVenice Turpentine one oz. Mi.K, ami divide into four\\ndoses in four succeeding nights. To relieve the throat\\nrub it with the cainpheiie liniment.\\nHOTS.\\nTo cure a horse attacked with bots, wash four quarts\\nraw potatoes and mash them fine, add a little water and\\ndrench it down him. A bot will die in from two to five\\nseconds, placed on a raw potato.\\nDISEASES OF THE KIDNEYS.\\nGive catechu one oz., uva ursi powdered one half oz.,\\nopium powdered, half drachm rub thoroughly with\\ncampheue liniment over the kidneys.\\nCAMPHENE LINIMENT.\\nTake of hartshorn one and a half ounces, camphor", "height": "2313", "width": "1545", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0039.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "36 conald s practical recipes.\\none oz., spirits of turpentine two oz., sweet oil three oz.,\\nalchohol four oz. Slmke before using.\\nPOLI -EVIL.\\nTake garden rue one pound, and a half a pound of\\nlard simmer tog-ether, strain and cool. Put one table-\\nspoonful in each ear of a horse for six days, until the\\nsore is loosened tlien dress with green ointment.\\nFISTULA.\\nAfter the pipe is formed insert a needle at the top and\\nran it out at the bottom, and draw or* pour through,\\nwhile warm the green ointment.\\nBOG OR BLOOD SPAVIN.\\nSaturate a woolen cloth with the Indian liniment and\\nbind around the joint rub hard with the hand eye i y\\nday.\\nSPLINTS. RINGBONE SPAVINS.\\nTwo oz. each of oil of spike, oil organum, British oil,\\noil smoke and oil of amber. Mix well together, bathe\\nand heat in.\\nWINDGALLS.\\nTake a piece of leather, drive it full of tacks one\\nfourth of an inch apart, nail the heads on a piece of\\nwood, make the horse bear his weight on it, drive the\\nnail8 into the puff, bandage it with linen rags dipped in\\ncamphene liniment.\\nCONDITION POWDERS.\\nOne pound comfrey root, half pound antimony, half\\npound sulphur, three ounces salti^etre, half pound laurel\\nberries, half pound juniper berries, half pound anise\\nseed, half pound rosin, three ounces alum, half pound\\ncopperas, half pound masterwort, half pound gun pow-\\nder. Mix all to powder, feed once a day, keej) the", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0040.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "Donald s practical recipes. 37\\nhorse dry, a.id from cold water for six hours after using\\nit.\\nSADDLE, OR COLLAR LINIMENT.\\nSpirits of turi^entine half oz., oil of spike half oz.,\\neastilc soap half oz., gum camphor half oz., sulphur eth-\\ner half oz., ess. wormwood half oz., alchohol half pint.\\nWash freely.\\nSTIFLE SPRAINS.\\nBoil half a bushel of white oak bark, add half a\\n])ound of alum, when cold add the whites of a dozen\\neggs and a handful of salt. Bathe well.\\nFLATULENT COLIC.\\nGive soap and new milk.\\nTO TAKE A FILM FROM THE EYE.\\nTake sugar and salt in equal parts; pulverize tine and\\nblow in the eye, and melt fresh butter and put in the\\nLAMPASS.\\nPrick with a sharp knife until they bleed.\\nSCRATCHES.\\nGive the horse sassafras tea with a little saltpetre, and\\ndress with green ointment.\\nFOUNDER OR STIFFS.\\nBleed in the cornet ring with a small fleam half an\\ninch above the hoof, the vein will be found from three\\nto five inches from the point of the heel cord as in any\\nother vein. Take one quart of blood from each foot\\nand tie human manure on the bit, to be changed as oft-\\nen as the horse gets it off for twenty-four hours.\\nTO STOP BLEEDING.\\nWhere the bleeding part can not be tied up, burnt", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0041.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "38 Donald s pkacticai. recipe*;.\\ncopperas finely pulverized should be I un(l oit )it..\\nGREEN OINTMENT.\\nFor the cure of burns, w ounds and old sores, on man\\nor beast, this ointment will effect more cures than any\\nother. Care must be taken not to let it burn wliile\\nmaking. Rosin two oz., beeswax two oz., white pine\\npitch four oz. melt them and add half a pound of lard,\\nand half oz. finely ground verdigris.\\nTO CURE SCAI.D HEAD ON CHILDREN.\\nTo be rubbed on once a day until cured One pound\\nfresh butter, heat hot, add two ounces burgundy pitch,\\ntwo oz. spirits turpentine. Simmer all together, and\\nwhen cool, add of red precipitate one oz., golden litli-\\narge one oz.\\nTO CURE SWEENY IN HORSES.\\nWhen first done, take one pound smoked bacon chop-\\nped fine, the whites of four eggs, three tablespoonsfal\\nof salt; heat so as to melt the grease. Rul) on when\\nthe disease is of long standing, so as to shrink the\\nshoulder. Cut a slit ia the skia at tlie top of the shrunk\\nflesh, so as to put in a tablespoonful of salt. Let it re-\\nmain ten days; then insert a seton at the bottom: as\\nsoon as it discharges, cut it. Cure effectual.\\nTO CURE CORNS ON HORSES.\\nPare the hoof until you can see the corn, which is of a\\nreddish color. Put on spirits of salts, and dress with\\ngreen ointment.\\nWood ashes, and common salt wet with water, will\\nstop cracks in stoves.\\nTO GET RID OF RED ANTS,\\nSprinkle the place they infest with ground coffee.", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0042.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "Donald s practical recipes. 39\\nto get rid of rats.\\nPut nitric acid in the holts through whi(h they pass\\nin and out.\\nTO PRESERVE FENCE POSTS.\\nDip the end you insert in the ground, in a solution of\\nIjIuc vitriol.\\nTO PRESERVE POTATOES.\\nTiike thcisethat are sound and kiln dry th(m and put\\nin a dry place.\\nScotch snufi put in the hole where crickets come out\\nwill destroy them.\\nTO CUKE CHILBLAINS.\\nRubwitli green ointment.\\nTO CURE BURNS AND SCALDS.\\nWrap uj) the part i)urned iji green ointment si)read\\non linen cloth.s.\\nTO CURE CURBS ON HORSES.\\nThe Indian liniment should be used heating it in.\\nBLACK OIL.\\nFor the cure of old sores, proudflesh and sjjrains.\\nTwo oz. oil of vitriol, one gill spirits of turpentine, one\\nl^int winter strained oil, one beeves gall. Putinto a\\nthick glass bottle.\\nTO CURE THE AGUE FEVER.\\nTake one pill of tar every night until cured.\\nINDIAN LINIMENT.\\nCures rheumatism, sj^rains, numbness, headache and.\\ntoothache. Two ozs. spirits heartshorn, one oz camphor\\ngum, one oz. oil spike, one oz. organum, one oz. amber,", "height": "2339", "width": "1540", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0043.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "40 Donald s practical recipes.\\none oz oil peppermint, one oz. British oil, one oz. beeves\\ngall, one quart alchohol. Shake together and warm by\\nthe fire twelve hours, in a stone jug.\\nFEVER AND AGUE.\\nQuinine thirty grains, prussiate of iron and sulphate\\nof iron eight grains, cayenne pepper sixty grains mix\\nwell. Divide tlie above into si.\\\\ doses, and give\\none powder every three hours until four are taken,\\nthen give one the next morning. In all cases give of\\nthe bitters, after the powders are taken, a teaspoonful\\nthree times a day.\\nTo make^the bitters, take twelve grains alloes, fifteen\\ngrains quinine, prussiate of iron four grains, cayenne\\npepper thirty grains. Put into a pint of brandy and\\nshake well.\\ncough syrup.\\nOne oz. sweet spirits nitre, one oz. elixer of vitriol,\\none oz.laudnum, half pound clarified honey. Take a\\nteaspoonful three times a day.\\nTO REPAIR BROKEN GLASS.\\nDissolve isinglass in gin make the broken parts\\nwarm dip theiu in the liquid and tie them up for some\\ntime.\\nGood, fresh yeast is a sovereign remedy when taken\\ninternally, for putrid sore throat, scarlet fever and dip-\\ntheria.\\nTO cure cancer.\\nTake a quantity of red oak bark and burn to ashes, to\\nthis add water, and boil to the consistency of molasses.\\nApply to the part affected and leave on for an hour.\\nAfterward cover the plaster with tar remove in a few\\ndays. If protuberances appear on the wound apply the", "height": "2303", "width": "1523", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0044.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "Donald s practical rkcipks. 41\\nplaster and tar alternatfly until they all disappear, af-\\nter which apply any healing- salve.\\nBKK STIN\\nBind on salt moistened.\\nNOSE BLEKDING.\\nRoll up a piece of paper and press under the upper\\nlip, and cord one arm.\\nFOR BURNS.\\nApply the wliite of an egg.\\nCERTAIN CURE FOR HEADACHE.\\nTo be applied as any other lotion. Opodeldoc, spir-\\nits of wine, and salmoniac, in equal parts.\\nCHOLERA MOIUUS.\\nTake a ciiicken just killed and boil in three quarts of\\nwater, and drink freely of the broth.\\nCiMl.TICE FOR A FESTER.\\nBoil bread in strong beer and poultice with it.\\nFOR COTfillS.\\nA tablespoonful of mohisses, two teaspoonsful castor\\noil, one teaspoonful of paregoric. Dose, half a tea-\\nspoonful.\\nTO RESTORE GREY HAIR.\\nLac sulphur one drachm, sugar of lead half drachm,\\nrose water four oz. Mix.\\nCURE FOR INFLAMATORY RHEUMATISM.\\nHalf OZ. pulverized saltpetre put into a half pint of\\nsweet oil. Bath the i)arts affected.\\nLIQUID GLUE.\\nGum arable two oz., boiling water one pint dissolve\\nand add of spirits ten oz.", "height": "2288", "width": "1555", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0045.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "INDEX.\\nPAGE.\\nIntroduction. 5\\nTo Get a Colt into a Barn, 10\\nFirst Process of Breaking Colts, 10\\nTo Learn the Colt to Stand, 13\\nTo Learn a Colt to Rein, 14\\nTo Hitch up a Colt, 16\\nTo Make a Horse Go, 17\\nTo Learn a Colt to Back, 19\\nTo Learn a Colt to Go Steady. 20\\nTo Prevent a Horse From Carrying his Head to One\\nSide, 21\\nTo Bridle a Colt, 23\\nTo Work an Old, Baulky Horse, 24\\nTo Drive a Kicking Horse, 24\\nShyinw Horses, 24\\nTo Saddlea Colt, 25\\nTo Shoe a Kicking Horse, 27\\nThe Habit of Biting, 27\\nTo Throw a Horse. 2\u00c2\u00a7\\nlleuiarks on Castrating, 30\\nHints on Breaking Steers, 33\\nPractical Recipes, 35", "height": "2323", "width": "1518", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0046.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3483", "width": "2135", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0047.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3514", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "scienceofhorsetr00dona_0048.jp2"}}