{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4755", "width": "3229", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4456", "width": "2904", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4432", "width": "2916", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4480", "width": "2904", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4448", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4480", "width": "2844", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "WILEY AND PUTNAM S\\nLIBRARY OF\\nCHOICE READING.\\nEOTHEN,\\nOR\\nTRACES OF TRAVEL\\nBROUGHT HOME FROM THE EAST.", "height": "4448", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4480", "width": "2944", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN,\\nOR\\nTE ACE S OF TRAVEL\\nBROUGHT HOME\\nFROM THE EAST.\\nUpds )}co re Kal r/Xi ou dvaro\\\\as IxotisTO rh\u00c2\u00bb bSov.\\nHerod, vii., 58.\\nNEW YORK:\\nWILEY AND PUTNAM, 161 BROADWAY.\\n1845.", "height": "4460", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "R. CRAIGHKAD S Power Press 6\\n112 Fulton Street,", "height": "4480", "width": "2912", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nPAGE\\nPreface v\\nChap. I. Over the Border 1\\nII. Journey from Belgrade to Constantinople 11\\nIII. Constantinople 23\\nIV. The Troad 31\\nV. Infidel Smyrna 37\\nVI. Greek Mariners .47\\nVII. Cyprus 55\\nVIII. Lady Hester Stanhope .62\\nIX. The Sanctuary 84\\nX. The Monks of the Holy Land .87\\nXI. From Nazareth to Tiberias 93\\nXII. My First Bivouac .97\\nXIII. The Dead Sea 104\\nXIV. The Black Tents 110\\nXV. Passage of the Jordan 113\\nXVI. Terra Santa 118\\nXVII. The Desert 133\\nXVIII. Cairo and the Plague 154\\nXIX. The Pyramids 176\\nXX. The Sphynx .179\\nXXI. Cairo to Suez 181\\nXXII. Suez 188\\nXXIII. Suez to Gaza 193\\nXXIV. Gaza to Nablous 199\\nXXV. Mariam 203\\nXXVI. The Prophet Damoor .211\\nXXVII. Damascus 215\\nXXVIII. Pass of the Lebanon 222\\nXXIX. Surprise of Satalieh 226", "height": "4444", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "PREFACE\\nADDRESSED BY\\nTHE AUTHOR TO ONE OF HIS FRIENDS.\\nWhen you first entertained the idea of travelling in the\\nEast, you asked me to send you an outline of the tour\\nwhich I had made, in order that you might the better be\\nable to choose a route for yourself. In answer to this re-\\nquest, I gave you a large French map, on which the course\\nof my journeys had been carefully marked but I did not\\nconceal from myself, that this was rather a dry mode for a\\nman to adopt, when he wished to impart the results of his\\nexperience to a dear and intimate friend. Now, long be-\\nfore the period of your planning an Oriental tour, I had\\nintended to write some account of my Eastern Travels.\\nI had, indeed, begun the task, and had failed I had begun\\nit a second time, and failing again, had abandoned my at-\\ntempt with a sensation of utter distaste. I was unable to\\nspeak out, and chiefly, I think, for this reason that I knew\\nnot to whom I was speaking. It might be you, or, perhaps,\\nour Lady of Bitterness, who would read my story or it\\nmight be some member of the Royal Statistical Society,\\nand how on earth was I to write in a way that would do\\nfor all three\\nWell your request for a sketch of my tour suggested\\nto me the idea of complying with your wish by a revival\\nof my twice-abandoned attempt. I tried, and the pleasure\\nand confidence which I felt in speaking to you, soon made\\nmy task so easy, and even amusing, that after a while", "height": "4432", "width": "2848", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "PREFACE.\\n(though not in time for your tour), I completed the scrawl\\nfrom which this book was originally printed.\\nThe very feeling, however, which enabled me to write\\nthus freely, prevented me from robing my thoughts in that\\ngrave and decorous style which I should have maintained if\\nI had professed to lecture the public. Whilst I feigned to\\nmyself that you, and you only, were listening, I could not\\nby possibility speak very solemnly. Heaven forbid that I\\nshould talk to my own genial friend, as though he were a\\ngreat and enlightened Community, or any other respectable\\nAggregate\\nYet I well understood that the mere fact of my professing\\nto speak to you rather than to the public generally, could\\nnot perfectly excuse me for printing a narrative too roughly\\nworded, and accordingly, in revising the proof sheets, I\\nhave struck out those phrases which seemed to be less fit\\nfor a published volume than for intimate conversation. It\\nis hardly to be expected, however, that correction of this\\nkind should be perfectly complete, or that the almost bois-\\nterous tone in which many parts of the book were origi-\\nnally written should be thoroughly subdued. I venture,\\ntherefore, to ask, that the familiarity of language still pos-\\nsibly apparent in the work, may be laid to the account of\\nour delightful intimacy, rather than to any presumptuous\\nmotive I feel, as you know, much too timidly too dis-\\ntantly, and too respectfully, towards the Public, to be capa-\\nble of seeking to put myself on terms of easy fellowship\\nwith strange and casual readers.\\nIt is right to forewarn people (and I have tried to do this\\nas well as I can, by my studiously unpromising title-page\\nEothen is, I hope, almost the only hard word to be found in the\\nbook it is written in Greek i)u6ev, (Attice, with an aspirated e instead of", "height": "4480", "width": "2928", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "PREFACE.\\nVll\\nthat the book is quite superficial in its character. I have\\nendeavored to discard from it all valuable matter derived\\nfrom the works of others, and it appears to me that my\\nefforts in this direction have been attended with great suc-\\ncess I believe I may truly acknowledge, that from all de-\\ntails of geographical discovery, or antiquarian research\\nfrom all display of sound learning, and religious know-\\nledge from* all historical and scientific illustrations from\\nall useful statistics from all political disquisitions and\\nfrom all good moral reflections, the volume is thoroughly\\nfree.\\nMy excuse for the book is its truth you and I know a\\nman fond of hazarding elaborate jokes, who, whenever a\\nstory of his happens not to go down as wit, will evade the\\nawkwardness of the failure, by bravely maintaining that\\nall he has said is pure fact. I can honestly take this decent,\\nthough humble mode of escape. My narrative is not\\nmerely righteously exact in matters of fact (where fact is\\nin question), but it is true in this larger sense it conveys\\nnot those impressions which ought to have been produced\\nupon any well constituted mind/ but those which were\\nreally and truly received at the time of his rambles, by a\\nheadstrong, and not very amiable traveller, whose preju-\\ndices in favor of other people s notions were then exceed-\\ningly slight. As I have felt, so I have written and the\\nresult is, that there will often be found in my narrative a\\njarring discord between the associations properly belonging\\nto interesting sites, and the tone in which I speak of them.\\nThis seemingly perverse mode of treating the subject is\\nforced upon me by my plan of adhering to sentimental\\nthe ri,) and signifies, from the early dawn, from the East. Bonn,\\nLex. 4th edition.", "height": "4452", "width": "2836", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "viii\\nPREFACE.\\ntruth, and really does not result from any impertinent wish\\nto teaze or trifle with readers. I ought, for instance, to\\nhave felt as strongly in Judea, as in Galilee, but it was not\\nso in fact the religious sentiment (born in solitude) which\\nhad heated my brain in the Sanctuary of Nazareth was\\nrudely chilled at the foot of Zion, by disenchanting scenes,\\nand this change is accordingly disclosed by the perfectly\\nworldly tone in which I speak of Jerusalem and Beth-\\nlehem.\\nMy notion of dwelling precisely upon those matters\\nwhich happened to interest me, and upon none other,\\nwould of course be intolerable in a regular book of travels.\\nIf I had been passing through countries not previously\\nexplored, it would have been sadly perverse to withhold\\ncareful description of admirable objects, merely because\\nmy own feelings of interest in them may have happened to\\nflag but where the countries which one visits have been\\nthoroughly and ably described, and even artistically illus-\\ntrated by others, one is fully at liberty to say as little\\n(though not quite so much) as one chooses. Now a travel-\\nler is a creature not always looking at sights he remem-\\nbers (how often the happy land of his birth he has, too,\\nhis moments of humble enthusiasm about fire and food\\nabout shade and drink and if he gives to these feelings\\nanything like the prominence which really belonged to\\nthem at the time of his travelling, he will not seem a very\\ngood teacher .once having determined to write the sheer\\ntruth concerning the things which chiefly have interested\\nhim, he must, and he will, sing a sadly long strain about\\nSelf; he will talk for whole pages together about his\\nbivouac fire, and ruin the Ruins of Baalbec with eight or\\nten cold lines.", "height": "4480", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "PREFACE.\\nix\\nBut it seems to me that the egotism of a traveller, how-\\never incessant however shameless and obtrusive, must still\\nconvey some true ideas of the country through which he\\nhas passed. His very selfishness his habit of referring\\nthe whole external world to his own sensations, compels\\nhim, as it were, in his writings, to observe the laws of per-\\nspective he tells you of objects, not as he knows them to\\nbe, but as they seemed to him. The people and the things\\nthat most concern him personally, however mean and in-\\nsignificant, take large proportions in his picture, because\\nthey stand so near to him. He shows you his Dragomen,\\nand the gaunt features of his Arabs his tent his kneeling\\ncamels his baggage strewed upon the sand but the\\nproper wonders of the land the cities the mighty ruins\\nand monuments of bygone ages he throws back faintly in\\nthe distance. It is thus that he felt, and thus he strives to\\nrepeat the scenes of the Elder World. You may listen to\\nhim for ever without learning much in the way of statis-\\ntics but perhaps if you bear with him long enough, you\\nmay find yourself slowly and slightly impressed with the\\nrealities of Eastern Travel.\\nMy scheme of refusing to dwell upon matters which\\nfailed to interest my own feelings, has been departed from\\nin one instance namely, in my detail of the late Lady\\nHester Stanhope s conversation on supernatural topics the\\ntruth is, that I have been much questioned on this subject,\\nand I thought that my best plan would be to write down\\nat once all that I could ever have to say concerning the\\npersonage whose career has excited so much curiosity\\namongst Englishwomen. The result is, that my account\\nof the lady goes to a length which is not justified either by", "height": "4448", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "x H PREFACE.\\nthe importance of the subject, or by the extent to which it\\ninterested the narrator.\\nYou will see that I constantly speak of my People/\\nmy Party/ u my Arabs/ and so on, using terms which\\nmight possibly seem to imply that I movkd about with a\\npompous retinue. This of course was not the case. I\\ntravelled with the simplicity proper to my station, as one\\nof the industrious class, who was not flying from his coun-\\ntry because of ennui, but was strengthening his will, and\\ntempering the metal of his nature for that life of toil and\\nconflict in which he is now engaged. But an Englishman\\njourneying in the East, must necessarily have with him\\nDragomen capable of interpreting the Oriental language\\nthe absence of wheeled-carriages obliges him to use seve-\\nral beasts of burthen for his baggage, as well as for him-\\nself and his attendants the owners of the horses or cam-\\nels, with their slaves or servants, fall in as part of his train,\\nand altogether the cavalcade becomes rather numerous,\\nwithout, however, occasioning any proportionate increase\\nof expense. When a traveller speaks of all these followers\\nin mass, he calls them his people, or his troop, or his\\nparty, without intending to make you believe that he is\\ntherefore a Sovereign Prince.\\nYou will see that I sometimes follow the custom of the\\nScots in describing my fellow-countrymen by the names of\\ntheir paternal homes.\\nOf course all these explanations are meant for casual\\nreaders. To you, without one syllable of excuse or depre-\\ncation, and in all the confidence of a friendship that never\\nyet was clouded, I give this long-promised volume, and add\\nbut one sudden Good-by for I dare not stand greeting\\nyou here.", "height": "4480", "width": "2891", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "EOTIEI.\\nCHAPTER I.\\nOver the Border.\\nAt Semlin I still was encompassed by the scenes, and the\\nsounds of familiar life the din of a busy world still vexed and\\ncheered me the unveiled faces of women still shone in the\\nlight of day. Yet, whenever I chose to look southward, I saw\\nthe Ottoman s fortress austere, and darkly impending over the\\nvale of the Danube historic Belgrade. I had come, as it\\nwere, to the end of this wheel-going Europe, and now my eyes\\nwould see the Splendor and Havoc of the East.\\nThe two frontier towns are less than a cannon-shot distant,\\nand yet their people hold no communion. The Hungarian on\\nthe North, and the Turk and Servian on the southern side of\\nthe Save, are as much asunder as though there were fifty broad\\nprovinces that lay in the path between them. Of the men that\\nbustled around me in the streets of Semlin, there was not, per-\\nhaps, one who had ever gone down to look upon the stranger\\nrace which dwells under the walls of that opposite castle. It\\nis the Plague, and the dread of the Plague, which divide the\\none people from the other. All coming and going stands for-\\nbidden by the terrors of the yellow flag. If you dare to break\\nthe laws of the quarantine, you will be tried with military\\nhaste the court will scream out your sentence to you from a\\ntribunal some fifty yards off the priest, instead of gently whis-\\npering to you the sweet hopes of religion, will console you at\\n2", "height": "4456", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "2\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. i.\\nduelling distance, and after that you will find yourself care-\\nfully shot, and carelessly buried in the ground of the Lazaretto.\\nWhen all was in order for our departure, we walked down to\\nthe precincts of the Quarantine Establishment, and here awaited\\nus a compromised officer of the Austrian Government, who\\nlives in a state of perpetual excommunication. The boats,\\nwith their compromised rowers, were also in readiness.\\nAfter coming in contact with any creature or thing belonging\\nto the Ottoman Empire, it would be impossible for us to return\\nto the Austrian territory without undergoing an imprisonment\\nof fourteen days in the odious Lazaretto we felt, therefore,\\nthat before we committed ourselves, it was highly important to\\ntake care that none of the arrangements necessary for the jour-\\nney had been forgotten, and in our anxiety to avoid such a mis-\\nfortune, we managed the work of departure from Semlin with\\nnearly as much solemnity as if we had been departing this life.\\nSome obliging persons from whom we had received civilities\\nduring our short stay in the place, came down to say their fare-\\nwell at the river s side and now, as we stood with them at the\\ndistance of three or four yards from the compromised officer,\\nthey asked if we were perfectly certain that we had wound up\\nall our affairs in Christendom, and whether we had no parting\\nrequests to make. We repeated the caution to our servants, and\\ntook anxious thought lest by any possibility we might be cut off\\nfrom some cherished object of affection were they quite sure\\nthat there was no faithful portmanteau no patient and long-\\nsuffering carpet bag no fragrant dressing-case with its gold-\\ncompelling letters of credit from which we might be parting for\\never No all these our loved ones lay safely stowed in the\\nboat, and we were ready to follow them to the ends of the earth.\\nNow, therefore, we shook hands with our Semlin friends, who\\nimmediately retreated for three or four paces, so as to leave\\nus in the centre of a space between them and the compro-\\nmised officer the latter then advanced, and asking once more\\nA compromised person is one who has been in contact with people\\nor things supposed to be capable of conveying infection. As a general rule\\nthe whole Ottoman empire lies constantly under this terrible ban. The\\nyellow flag is the ensign of the Quarantine establishment.", "height": "4521", "width": "2971", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "CHAP. I.]\\nOVER THE BORDER.\\n3\\nif we had done with the civilized world, held forth his hand I\\nmet it with mine, and there was an end to Christendom for many\\na day to come.\\nWe soon neared the southern bank of the river, but no sounds\\ncame down from the blank walls above, and there was no living\\nthing that we could yet see, except one great hovering bird of\\nthe vulture race, flying low, and intent, and wheeling round and\\nround over the Pest-accused city.\\nBut presently there issued from the postern, a group of hu-\\nman beings, beings with immortal souls, and possibly some\\nreasoning faculties, but to me the grand point was this, that they\\nhad real, substantial, and incontrovertible turbans they made\\nfor the point towards which we were steering, and when at last\\nI sprang upon the shore, I heard, and saw myself now first sur-\\nrounded by men of Asiatic race I have since ridden through\\nthe land of the Osmanlees, from the Servian Border to the Gold-\\nen Horn, from the gulph of Satalieh to the tomb of Achilles\\nbut never have I seen such ultra-Turkish looking fellows as\\nthose who received me on the banks of the Save they were\\nmen in the humblest order of life, having come to meet our boat\\nin the hope of earning something by carrying our luggage up to\\nthe city, but poor though they were, it was plain that they were\\nTurks of the proud old school, and had not yet forgotten the\\nfierce, careless bearing of the once victorious Ottomans.\\nThough the province of Servia generally has obtained a kind\\nof independence, yet Belgrade, as being a place of strength on\\nthe frontier, is still garrisoned by Turkish troops, under the com-\\nmand of a Pasha. Whether the fellows who now surrounded\\nus were soldiers, or peaceful inhabitants, I did not understand\\nthey wore the old Turkish costume vests and jackets of many\\nbrilliant colors divided from the loose petticoat-trowsers by\\nmasses of shawl, which were folded in heavy volumes around\\ntheir waists, so as to give the meagre wearers something of the\\ndignity of true corpulence. The shawl enclosed a whole bundle\\nof weapons no man bore less than one brace of immensely\\nlong pistols, and a yataghan (or cutlass), with a dagger or two,\\nof various shapes and sizes most of these arms were inlaid\\nwith silver, and highly burnished, so that they contrasted", "height": "4464", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "4\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. I.\\nshiningly with the decayed grandeur of the garments to which\\nthey were attached (this carefulness of his arms is a point of\\nhonor with the Osmanlee, who never allows his bright yataghan\\nto suffer from his own adversity) then the long drooping mus-\\ntachios, and the ample folds of the once white turbans, that\\nlowered over the piercing eyes, and the haggard features of the\\nmen, gave them an air of gloomy pride, and that appearance of\\ntrying to be disdainful under difficulties, which I have since\\nseen so often in those of the Ottoman people who live, and re-\\nmember old times they seemed as if they were thinking that\\nthey would have been more usefully, more honorably, and\\nmore piously employed in cutting our throats, than in carrying\\nour portmanteaus. The faithful Steel Methley s Yorkshire\\nservant) stood aghast for a moment, at the sight of his master s\\nluggage upon the shoulders of these warlike porters, and when\\nat last we began to move up, he could scarcely avoid turning\\nround to cast one affectionate look towards Christendom, but\\nquickly again he marched on with the steps of a man, not fright-\\nened exactly, but sternly prepared for death, or the Koran, or\\neven for plural wives.\\nThe Moslem quarter of a city is lonely and desolate you\\ngo up and down, and on over shelving and hillocky paths\\nthrough the narrow lanes walled in by blank, windowless dwel-\\nlings you come out upon an open space strewed with the black\\nruins that some late fire has left you pass by a mountain of\\ncast-away things, the rubbish of centuries, and on it you see\\nnumbers of big, wolf-like dogs lying torpid under the sun, with\\nlimbs outstretched to the full, as if they were dead storks, or\\ncranes, sitting fearless upon the low roofs, look gravely down\\nupon you the still air that you breathe is loaded with the scent\\nof citron, and pomegranate rinds scorched by the sun, or (as you\\napproach the Bazaar) with the dry, dead perfume of strange spi-\\nces. You long for some signs of life, and tread the ground more\\nheavily, as though you would wake the sleepers with the heel\\nof your boot but the foot falls noiseless upon the crumbling soil\\nof an eastern city, and Silence follows you still. Again and\\nagain you meet turbans, and faces of men, but they have noth-\\ning for you\u00e2\u0080\u0094 no welcome no wonder no wrath no scorn", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "CHAP. I.]\\nOVER THE BORDER.\\n5\\nthey look upon you as we do upon a December s fall of snow\\nas a seasonable/ 5 unaccountable, uncomfortable work of God,\\nthat may have been sent for some good purpose, to be revealed\\nhereafter.\\nSome people had come down to meet us with an invitation\\nfrom the Pasha, and we wound our way up to the castle. At\\nthe gates there were groups of soldiers, some smoking, and some\\nlying flat like corpses upon the cool stones we went through\\ncourts, ascended steps, passed along a corridor, and walked into\\nan airy, white- washed room, with an European clock at one end\\nof it, and Moostapha Pasha at the other the fine, old, bearded\\npotentate looked very like Jove like Jove, too, in the midst of\\nhis clouds, for the silvery fumes of the Narguile* hung lightly\\ncircling round him.\\nThe Pasha received us with the smooth, kind, gentle manner\\nthat belongs to well-bred Osmanlees then he lightly clapped his\\nhands, and instantly the sound filled all the lower end of the\\nroom with slaves a syllable dropped from his lips which bowed\\nall heads, and conjured away the attendants like ghosts (their\\ncoming and their going was thus swift and quiet, because their\\nfeet were bare, and they passed through no door, but only by\\nthe yielding folds of a purder). Soon the coffee bearers ap-\\npeared, every man carrying separately his tiny cup in a small\\nmetal stand, and presently to each of us there came a pipe-\\nbearer, who first rested the bowl of the tchibouque at a measured\\ndistance on the floor, and then, on this axis, wheeled round the\\nlong cherry stick, and gracefully presented it on half-bended\\nknee already the well-kindled fire was glowing secure in the\\nbowl, and so, when I pressed the amber lip to mine, there was\\nno coyness to conquer the willing fume came up, and answered\\nmy slightest sigh, and followed softly every breath inspired, till it\\ntouched me with some faint sense and understanding of Asiatic\\ncontentment, f\\nThe Narguile is a water-pipe upon the plan of the Hookah, but more\\ngracefully fashioned the smoke is drawn by a very long flexible tube that\\nwinds its snake-like way from the vase to the lips of the beatified smoker.\\nf Fine talking this, you will say, for one who can t smoke a cigar but\\nask any Eastern traveller if it is not quite possible to love the tchibouque", "height": "4464", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "6\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. I.\\nAsiatic contentment! Yet scarcely, perhaps, one hour be-\\nfore, I had been wanting my bill, and ringing for waiters in a\\nshrill and busy hotel.\\nIn the Ottoman dominions there is scarcely any hereditary\\ninfluence except that which belongs to the family of the Sultan,\\nand wealth, too, is a highly volatile blessing, not easily trans-\\nmitted to the descendants of the owner. From these causes it\\nresults, that the people standing in the place of nobles and gen-\\ntry, are official personages, and though many (indeed the greater\\nnumber) of these potentates are humbly born and bred, you will\\nseldom, I think, find them wanting in that polished smoothness of\\nmanner, and those well undulating tones which belong to the\\nbest Osmanlees. The truth is, that most of the men in authority\\nhave risen from their humble stations by the arts of the courtier,\\nand they preserve in their high estate, those gentle powers of\\nfascination to which they owe their success. Yet unless you\\ncan contrive to learn a little of the language, you will be rather\\nbored by your visits of ceremony the intervention of the inter-\\npreter, or Dragoman as he is called, is fatal to the spirit of con-\\nversation. I think I should mislead you, if I were to attempt to\\ngive the substance of any particular conversation with Orientals.\\nA traveller may write and say that, the Pasha of So-and-So\\nwas particularly interested in the vast progress which has been\\nmade in the application of steam, and appeared to understand\\nthe structure of our machinery that he remarked upon the\\ngigantic results of our manufacturing industry\u00e2\u0080\u0094 showed that he\\npossessed considerable knowledge of our Indian affairs, and of\\nthe constitution of the Company, and expressed a lively admira-\\ntion of the many sterling qualities for which the people of Eng-\\nland are distinguished. But the heap of common-places thus\\nquietly attributed to the Pasha, will have been founded perhaps\\non some such talking as this\\nPasha. The Englishman is welcome most blessed among\\nhours is this, the hour of his coming.\\nDragoman (to the Traveller). The Pasha pays you his com-\\npliments.\\nand the narguile, without being able to endure the European contrivances\\nfor smoking,", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "CHAP. I.]\\nOVER THE BORDER.\\n7\\nTraveller. Give him my best compliments in return, and say\\nI m delighted to have the honor of seeing him.\\nDragoman (to the Pasha). His Lordship, this Englishman,\\nLord of London, Scorner of Ireland, Suppressor of France, has\\nquitted his governments, and left his enemies to breathe for a\\nmoment, and has crossed the broad waters in strict disguise, with a\\nsmall but eternally faithful retinue of followers, in order that he\\nmight look upon the bright countenance of the Pasha among Pashas\\nthe Pasha of the everlasting Pashalik of Karagholookoldour.\\nTraveller (to his Dragoman). What on earth have you been\\nsaying about London 1 The Pasha will be taking me for a mere\\ncockney. Have not I told you always to say, that I am from a\\nbranch of the family of Mudcombe Park, and that I am to be a\\nmagistrate for. the county of Bedfordshire, only Pve not qualified,\\nand that I should have been a Deputy-Lieutenant, if it had not\\nbeen for the extraordinary conduct of Lord Mountpromise, and\\nthat I was a candidate for Goldborough at the last election, and\\nthat I should have won easy, if my committee had not been\\nbought. I wish to heaven that if you do say anything about\\nme, you d tell the simple truth.\\nDragoman [is silent].\\nPasha. What says the friendly Lord of London is there\\naught that I can grant him within the pashalik of Karagholookol-\\ndour\\nDragoman (growing sulky and literal). This friendly Eng-\\nlishman this branch of Mudcombe this head-purveyor of\\nGoldborough this possible policeman of Bedfordshire is re-\\ncounting his achievements, and the number of his titles.\\nPasha.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The end of his honors is more distant than the ends\\nof the Earth, and the catalogue of his glorious deeds is brighter\\nthan the firmament of Heaven\\nDragoman (to the Traveller). The Pasha congratulates your\\nExcellency.\\nTraveller. About Goldborough The deuce he does but\\nI want to get at his views, in relation to the present state of the\\nOttoman Empire tell him the Houses of Parliament have met,\\nand that there has been a Speech from the throne, pledging\\nEngland to preserve the integrity of the Sultan s dominions,", "height": "4464", "width": "2828", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "8\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. i.\\nDragoman (to the Pasha). This branch of Mudcombe, this\\npossible policeman of Bedfordshire, informs your Highness that\\nin England the talking houses have met, and that the integrity\\nof the Sultan s dominions has been assured for ever and ever, by\\na speech from the velvet chair.\\nPasha. Wonderful chair Wonderful houses whirr\\nwhirr all by wheels whiz whiz all by steam wonderful\\nchair wonderful houses wonderful people whirr whirr\\nall by wheels whiz whiz all by steam\\nTraveller (to the Dragoman). What does the Pasha mean by\\nthe whizzing he does not mean to say, does he, that our Gov-\\nernment will ever abandon their pledges to the Sultan\\nDragoman. No, your Excellency but he says the English\\ntalk by wheels and by steam.\\nTraveller. That s an exaggeration but say that the English\\nreally have carried machinery to great perfection; tell the\\nPasha (he ll be struck with that), that whenever we have any\\ndisturbances to put down, even at two or three hundred miles\\nfrom London, we can send troops by the thousand, to the scene\\nof action, in a few hours.\\nDragoman (recovering his temper and freedom of speech).\\nHis Excellency, this Lord of Mudcombe, observes to your High-\\nness, that whenever the Irish, or the French, or the Indians rebel\\nagainst the English, whole armies of soldiers, and brigades of\\nartillery, are dropped into a mighty chasm called Euston Square,\\nand in the biting of a cartridge they arise up again in Manches-\\nter, or Dublin, or Paris, or Delhi, and utterly exterminate the\\nenemies of England from the face of the earth.\\nPasha.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 I know it I know all the particulars have been\\nfaithfully related to me, and my mind comprehends locomotives.\\nThe armies of the English ride upon the vapors of boiling caul-\\ndrons, and their horses are flaming coals! whirr! whirr! all by\\nwheels whiz whiz all by steam\\nTraveller (to his Dragoman). I wish to have the opinion of\\nan unprejudiced Ottoman gentleman, as to the prospects of our\\nEnglish commerce and manufactures just ask the Pasha to\\ngive me his views on the subject.\\nPasha (after having received the communication of the Dra~", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "CHAP. I.]\\nOVER THE BORDER.\\n9\\ngoman). The ships of the English swarm like flies their\\nprinted calicoes cover the whole earth, and by the side of their\\nswords the blades of Damascus are blades of grass. All India\\nis but an item in the Ledger-books of the Merchants, whose\\nlumber-rooms are filled with ancient thrones! whirr! whirr!\\nall by wheels whiz whiz all by steam\\nDragoman. The Pasha compliments the cutlery of England,\\nand also the East India Company.\\nTraveller. The Pasha s right about the cutlery (I tried my\\nscimitar with the common officers swords belonging to our fel-\\nlows at Malta, and they cut it like the leaf of a Novel). Well\\n(to the Dragoman), tell the Pasha I am exceedingly gratified to\\nfind that he entertains such a high opinion of our manufacturing\\nenergy, but I should like him to know, though, that we have got\\nsomething in England besides that. These foreigners are always\\nfancying that we have nothing but ships, and railways, and East\\nIndia Companies do just tell the Pasha that our rural districts\\ndeserve his attention, and that even within the last two hundred\\nyears, there has been an evident improvement in the culture of\\nthe turnip, and if he does not take any interest about that, at all\\nevents you can explain that we have our virtues in the country\\nthat the British yeoman is still, thank God the British yeo-\\nman Oh and by the by, whilst you are about it, you may\\nas well say that we are a truth-telling people, and, like the\\nOsmanlees, are faithful in the performance of our promises.\\nPasha (after hearing the Dragoman). It is true, it is true\\nthrough all Feringhistan the English are foremost and best for\\nthe Russians are drilled swine, and the Germans are sleeping\\nbabes, and the Italians are the servants of Songs, and the French\\nare the sons of Newspapers, and the Greeks they are weavers\\nof lies, but the English and the Osmanlees are brothers together\\nin righteousness for the Osmanlees believe in one only God,\\nand cleave to the Koran, and destroy idols so do the English\\nworship one God, and abominate graven images, and tell the\\ntruth, and believe in a book, and though they drink the juice of\\nthe grape, yet to say that they worship their prophet as God, or\\nto say that they are eaters of pork, these are lies, lies born of\\nGreeks, and nursed by Jews", "height": "4460", "width": "2840", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "10\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. I.\\nDragoman. The Pasha compliments the English.\\nTraveller (rising).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Well, I ve had enough of this. Tell the\\nPasha, I am greatly obliged to him for his hospitality, and still\\nmore for his kindness in furnishing me with horses, and say that\\nnow I must be off.\\nPasha (after hearing the Dragoman, and standing up on his\\nDivan).\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Proud are the sires, and blessed are the dams of the\\nhorses that shall carry his Excellency to the end of his prosper-\\nous journey.\u00e2\u0080\u0094 May the saddle beneath him glide down to the\\ngates of the happy city, like a boat swimming on the third river\\nof Paradise. May he sleep the sleep of a child, when his friends\\nare around him, and the while that his enemies are abroad, may\\nhis eyes flame red through the darkness\u00e2\u0080\u0094 more red than the eyes\\nof ten tigers ^farewell\\nDragoman. The Pasha wishes your Excellency a pleasant\\njourney.\\nSo ends the visit.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 11\\nCHAPTER II.\\nJourney from Belgrade to Constantinople.\\nIn two or three hours our party was ready the servants, the\\nTatars, the mounted Suridgees, and the baggage-horses alto-\\ngether made up a strong cavalcade. The accomplished Mysseri,\\nof whom you have heard me speak so often, and who served me\\nso faithfully throughout my oriental journeys, acted as our\\ninterpreter, and was, in fact, the brain of our corps. The Ta-\\ntar, you know, is a government courier properly employed in\\ncarrying despatches, but also sent with travellers to speed them\\non their way, and answer with his head for their safety. The\\nman whose head was thus pledged for our precious lives was a\\nglorious looking fellow, with the regular, and handsome cast of\\ncountenance, which is now characteristic of the Ottoman race.*\\nHis features displayed a good deal of serene pride, self-respect,\\nfortitude, a kind of ingenuous sensuality, and something of\\ninstinctive wisdom, without any sharpness of intellect. He had\\nbeen a Janissary (as I afterwards found), and kept up the odd\\nstrut of his old corps, which used to affright the Christians in\\nformer times that rolling gait is so comically pompous, that a\\nclose imitation of it, even in the broadest farce, would be looked\\nupon as a very rough over-acting of the character. It is occa-\\nsioned in part by the dress, and accoutrements. The heavy\\nbundle of weapons carried upon the chest throws back the body\\nso as to give it a wonderful portliness, whilst the immense masses\\nof clothes that swathe his limbs, force the wearer in walking, to\\nswing himself heavily round from left to right, and from right to\\nleft -in truth, this great edifice of woollen, and cotton, and silk\\nThe continual marriages of these people, with the chosen beauties of\\nGeorgia and Circassia, have overpowered the original ugliness of their Tatar\\nancestors.", "height": "4440", "width": "2832", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "12\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\nand silver, and brass, and steel, is not at all fitted for moving on\\nfoot it cannot even walk without ludicrously deranging its\\narchitectural proportions, and as to running, I once saw our\\nTatar make an attempt at that laborious exercise, in order to\\npick up a partridge which Methley had winged with a pistol-\\nshot, and really the attempt was one of the funniest misdirec-\\ntions of human energy that I ever beheld. It used to be said,\\nthat a good man, struggling with adversity, was a spectacle\\nworthy of the gods a Tatar attempting to run would have been\\na sight worthy of you. But put him in his stirrups, and then is\\nthe Tatar himself again there you see him at his ease, reposing\\nin the tranquillity of that true home (the home of his ancestors),\\nwhich the saddle seems to afford him, and drawing from his pipe\\nthe calm pleasures of his own fireside, 55 or else dashing sudden\\nover the earth, as though for a moment he were borne by the steed\\nof a Turkman chief, with the plains of central Asia before him.\\nIt was not till his subordinates had nearly completed their pre-\\nparations for their march that our Tatar, commanding the\\nforces, 55 arrived he came sleek, and fresh from the bath (for\\nso is the custom of the Ottomans when they start upon a jour-\\nney), and was carefully accoutred at every point. From his\\nthigh to his throat he was loaded with arms and other implements\\nof a campaigning life. There is no scarcity of water along the\\nwhole road, from Belgrade to Stamboul, but the habits of our\\nTatar were formed by his ancestors, and not by himself, so he\\ntook good care to see that his leather water-flask was amply\\ncharged and properly strapped to the saddle, along with his\\nblessed tchibouque. And now at last, he has cursed the Surid-\\ngees, in all proper figures of speech, and is ready for a ride of a\\nthousand miles, but before he comforts his soul in the marble\\nbaths of Stamboul, he will be another and a smaller man his\\nsense of responsibility, his too strict abstemiousness, and his rest-\\nless energy, disdainful of sleep, will have worn him down to a\\nfraction of the sleek Moostapha, that now leads out our party\\nfrom the gates of Belgrade.\\nThe Suridgees are the fellows employed to lead the baggage\\nhorses. They are most of them Gipsies. Poor devils their lot\\nis an unhappy one they are the last of the human race, and all", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY\u00e2\u0080\u0094 BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 13\\nthe sins of their superiors (including the horses) can safely be\\nvisited on them. But the wretched look often more picturesque\\nthan their betters, and though all the world look down upon these\\npoor Suridgees, their tawny skins, and their grisly beards, will\\ngain them honorable standing in the foreground of a landscape.\\nWe had a couple of these fellows with us, each leading a bag-\\ngage horse, r to the tail of which last, another baggage horse was\\nattached. There was a world of trouble in persuading the stiff\\nangular portmanteaus of Europe to adapt themselves to their new\\ncondition, and sit quietly on pack-saddles, but all was right at\\nlast, and it gladdened my eyes to see our little troop file off\\nthrough the winding lanes of the city, and show down brightly\\nin the plain beneath the one of our party that seemed to be\\nmost out of keeping with the rest of the scene, was Methley s\\nYorkshire servant, who rode doggedly on in his pantry jacket,\\nlooking out for gentlemen s seats. 99\\nMethley and I had English saddles, but I think we should have\\ndone just as well I should certainly have seen more of the\\ncountry), if we had adopted saddles like that of our Tatar, who\\ntowered so loftily over the scraggy little beast that carried him.\\nIn taking thought for the East, whilst in England, I had made\\none capital hit which you must not forget I had brought with\\nme a pair of common spurs, which were a great comfort to me\\nthroughout my travels by keeping up the cheerfulness of the\\nmany unhappy nags which I had to bestride the angle of the\\noriental stirrup is a very poor substitute for spurs.\\nThe Ottoman horseman, raised by his saddle to a great height\\nabove the humble level of the back which he bestrides, and\\nusing an awfully sharp bit, is able to lift the crest of his nag,\\nand force him into a strangely fast amble, which is the ortho-\\ndox pace for the journey my comrade and I thought it a bore\\nto be followed by our attendants for a thousand miles, and we\\ngenerally, therefore, did duty as the rear-guard of our grand\\narmy we used to walk our horses till the party in front had\\ngot into the distance, and then retrieve the lost ground by a\\ngallop.\\nWe had ridden on for some two or three hours the stir and\\nbustle of our commencing journey had ceased the liveliness of", "height": "4456", "width": "2816", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "14\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\nour little troop had worn off with the declining day, and the\\nnight closed in as we entered the Great Servian forest, through\\nwhich our road was to last for more than a hundred miles.\\nEndless, and endless now on either side, the tall oaks closed in\\ntheir ranks, and stood gloomily lowering over us, as grim as an\\narmy of giants with a thousand years pay in arrear. One\\nstrived with listening ear to catch some tidings of that Forest\\nWorld within some stirring of beasts, some night bird s scream,\\nbut all was quite hushed, except the voice of the cicalas that\\npeopled every bough, and filled the depths of the forest through,\\nand through, with one same hum everlasting more stilling than\\nvery silence.\\nAt first our way was in darkness, but after a while the moon\\ngot up and touched the glittering arms and tawny faces of our\\nmen with light so pale and mystic, that the watchful Tatar felt\\nbound to look out for Demons, and take proper means for keep-\\ning them off he immediately determined that the duty of fright-\\nening away our ghostly enemies (like every other troublesome\\nwork), should fall upon the poor Suridgees, who accordingly\\nlifted up their voices, and burst upon the dreadful stillness of\\nthe forest with shrieks and dismal howls. These precautions\\nwere kept up incessantly, and were followed by the most com-\\nplete success, for not one demon came near us.\\nLong before midnight, we reached the hamlet in which we\\nwere to rest for the night it was made up of about a dozen\\nclay huts, standing upon a small tract of ground which had\\nbeen conquered from the forest. The peasants that lived there\\nspoke a Slavonic dialect, and Mysseri s knowledge of the Rus-\\nsian tongue enabled him to talk with them freely. We soon\\ntook up our quarters in a square room, with white walls, and an\\nearthen floor, quite bare of furniture and utterly void of women.\\nThey told us, however, that these Servian villagers were very\\nwell off, but that they were careful to conceal their wealth, as\\nwell as their wives.\\nThe burthens unstrapped from the packsaddles very quickly\\nfurnished our den a couple of quilts spread upon the floor,\\nwith a carpet bag at the head of each, became capital sofas\\nportmanteaus, and hat boxes, and writing cases, and books, and", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY\u00e2\u0080\u0094 BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 15\\nmaps, and gleaming arms, were soon strewed around us in\\npleasant confusion Mysseri s canteen, too, began to yield up its\\ntreasures, but we relied upon finding some provisions in the vil-\\nlage. At first the natives declared that their hens were mere\\nold maids, and all their cows unmarried, but our Tatar swore\\nsuch a grand, sonorous oath, and fingered the hilt of his\\nyataghan with such persuasive touch, that the land soon flowed\\nwith milk, and mountains of eggs arose.\\nAnd soon there was tea before us, with all its unspeakable\\nfragrance, and as we reclined on the floor, we found that a port-\\nmanteau was just the right height for a table the duty of can-\\ndlesticks was ably performed by a couple of intelligent natives\\nthe rest of them stood by the open door- way at the lower end of\\nthe room, and watched our banqueting with deep and serious\\nattention.\\nThe first night of your first campaign (though you be but a\\nmere peaceful campaigner) is a glorious time in your life. It\\nis so sweet to find oneself free from the stale civilisation of\\nEurope Oh my dear ally when first you spread your car-\\npet in the midst of these eastern scenes, do think for a moment\\nof those your fellow creatures, that dwell in squares, and\\nstreets, and even (for such is the fate of many in actual coun-\\ntry houses think of the people that are presenting their com-\\npliments, 5 and requesting the honor, and much regretting,\\nof those that are pinioned at dinner tables, or stuck up in ball-\\nrooms, or cruelly planted in pews ay, think- of these, and so\\nremembering how many poor devils are living in a state of utter\\nrespectability, you will glory the more in your own delightful\\nescape.\\nI am bound to confess, however, that with all its charms, a\\nmud floor (like a mercenary match) does certainly promote\\nearly rising. Long before daybreak we were up, and had\\nbreakfasted after this there was nearly a whole tedious hour\\nto endure, whilst the horses were laden by torch-light but this\\nhad an end, and at last we went on once more. Cloaked, and\\nsombre, at first we made our sullen way through the darkness,\\nwith scarcely one barter of words, but soon the genial morning\\nburst over us, and stirred the blood so gladly through our veins,", "height": "4464", "width": "2784", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "16\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\nthat the very Suridgees, with all their troubles, could now look\\nup for an instant, and almost believe in the temporary goodness\\nof God.\\nThe actual movement from one place to another, in Europe-\\nanized countries, is a process so temporary it occupies, I\\nmean, so small a portion of the traveller s entire time, that his\\nmind remains unsettled, so long as the wheels are going he\\nis alive enough to the external objects of interest, which the\\nroute may afford, and to the crowding ideas which are often\\ninvited by the excitement of a changing scene, but he is still\\nconscious of being in a provisional state, and his mind is con-\\nstantly recurring to the expected end of his j\u00c2\u00a9urney his ordi-\\nnary ways of thought have been interrupted, and before any\\nnew mental habits can be formed he is quietly fixed in his\\nhotel. It will be otherwise with you when you journey in the East.\\nDay after day, perhaps week after week, and month after month,\\nyour foot is in the stirrup. To taste the cold breath of the ear-\\nliest morn, and to lead or follow your bright cavalcade till sun-\\nset through forests, and mountain passes, through valleys, and\\ndesolate plains, all this becomes your MODE OF LIFE, and\\nyou ride, eat, drink, and curse the mosquitoes, as systemati-\\ncally as your friends in England eat, drink, and sleep. If you\\nare wise, you will not look upon the long period of time thus\\noccupied by your journeys as the mere gulfs which divide you\\nfrom the place to which you are going, but rather as most rare\\nand beautiful portions of your life, from which may come tem-\\nper and strength. Once feel this, and you will soon grow\\nhappy and contented in your saddle home. As for me and my\\ncomrade, in this part of our journey we often forgot Stamboul,\\nforgot all the Ottoman Empire, and only remembered old times.\\nWe went back, loitering on the banks of Thames not grim old\\nThames of after life 55 that washes the Parliament House, and\\ndrowns despairing girls, but Thames the old Eton fellow\\nthat wrestled with us in our boyhood till he taught us to be\\nstronger than he. We bullied Keate, and scoffed at Larrey\\nMiller, and Okes we rode along loudly laughing, and talked\\nto the grave Servian forest, as though it were the Brocas\\nclump. 55 Our pace was commonly very slow, for the baggage", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 17\\nhorses served us for a drag, and kept us to a rate of little more\\nthan five miles in the hour, but now and then, and chiefly at\\nnight, a spirit of movement would suddenly animate the whole\\nparty the baggage horses would be teazed into a gallop, and\\nwhen once this was done, there would be such a banging of\\nportmanteaus, and such convulsions of carpet bags upon their\\npanting sides, and the Suridgees would follow them up with\\nsuch a hurricane of blows, and screams, and curses, that stop-\\nping or relaxing was scarcely possible then the rest of us\\nwould put our horses into a gallop, and so all shouting cheerily,\\nwould hunt, and drive the sumpter beasts like a flock of goats,\\nup hill and down dale, right on to the end of their journey.\\nThe distances at which we got relays of horses varied greatly\\nsome were not more than fifteen or twenty miles, but twice, I\\nthink, we performed a whole day s journey of more than sixty\\nmiles with the same beasts.\\nWhen, at last, we came out from the forest, our road lay\\nthrough scenes like those of an English park. The green\\nsward unfenced, and left to the free pasture of cattle, was dotted\\nwith groups of stately trees, and here and there darkened over\\nwith larger masses of wood, that seemed gathered together for\\nbounding the domain, and shutting out some infernal fellow-\\ncreature in the shape of a new-made squire in one or two spots\\nthe hanging copses looked down upon a lawn below with such\\nsheltering mien, that seeing the like in England, you would\\nhave been tempted almost to ask the name of the spendthrift, or\\nthe madman who had dared to pull down the old hall.\\nThere are few countries less infested by lions 5 than the\\nprovinces on this part of your route, you are not called upon\\nto drop a tear over the tomb of the once brilliant any-\\nbody, or to pay your tribute of respect to anything dead, or\\nalive there are no Servipxi? or Bulgarian Litterateurs with\\nwhom it would be positively disgraceful not to form an acquaint-\\nance; you have no scaring, no praising to get through; the\\nonly public building of any interest which lies on the road is of\\nmodern date, but is said to be a good specimen of oriental\\narchitecture it is of a pyramidical shape, and is made up of\\nthirty thousand skulls which were contributed by the rebellious\\n3", "height": "4440", "width": "2824", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "IS\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\nServians in the early part (I believe) of this century I am not\\nat all sure of my date, but I fancy it was in the year 1806 that\\nthe first skull was laid. I am ashamed to say, that in the dark-\\nness of the early morning, we unknowingly went by the\\nneighborhood of this triumph of art, and so basely got off from\\nadmiring the simple grandeur of the architect s conception,\\nand the exquisite beauty of the fretwork.\\nThere being no lions, we ought at least to have met with\\na few perils, but there were no women to attack our peace (they\\nwere all wrapt up, or locked in), and as for robbers, the only\\nrobbers we saw anything of had been long since dead and gone\\nthe poor fellows had been impaled upon high poles, and so\\npropped up by the transverse spokes beneath them, that their\\nskeletons, clothed with some white, wax-like remains of flesh,\\nstill sat up lolling in the sunshine, and listlessly stared without\\neyes.\\nOne day it seemed to me that our path was a little more\\nrugged and less level than usual, and I found that I was deserv-\\ning for myself the title of Sabalkansky, or Transcender of the\\nBalcan. The truth is, that, as a military barrier, the Balcan\\nis a fabulous mountain such seems to be the view of Major\\nKeppell, who looked on it towards the East with the eye of a\\nsoldier, and certainly in the Sophia pass, which I followed, there\\nis no narrow defile, and no ascent sufficiently difficult to stop, or\\ndelay for long time, a train of siege artillery.\\nBefore we reached Adrianople, Methley had been seized with\\nwe knew not what ailment, and when we had taken up our\\nquarters in the city, he was cast to the very earth by sickness.\\nAdrianople enjoyed an Eiwlish Consul, and I felt sure that, in\\nEastern phrase, his house w^uld cease to be his house, and\\nwould become the house of my sick comrade I should have\\njudged rightly under ordinary circumstances, but the levelling\\nplague was abroad, and the dread of h. had dominion over the\\nconsular mind. So now (whether dying or not, one could\\nhardly tell), upon a quilt stretched out alon^ the floor, there lay\\nthe best hope of an ancient line, without the material aids to\\ncomfort of even the humblest sort, and (sad to say) without the\\nconsolation of a friend, or even a comrade worth having. I", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 19\\nhave a notion that tenderness and pity are affections occasioned\\nin some measure by living within doors certainly, at the time\\nI speak of, the open air life which I had been leading, or the\\nwayfaring hardships of the journey had so strangely blunted\\nme, that I felt intolerant of illness, and looked down upon my\\ncompanion as if the poor fellow in falling ill had betrayed a\\ndecided want of spirit I entertained, too, a most absurd idea\\nan idea that his illness was partly affected. You see that I have\\nmade a confession this I hope that I may always hereafter\\nlook charitably upon the hard, savage acts of peasants, and the\\ncruelties of a brutal 55 soldiery. God knows that I strived to\\nmelt myself into common charity, and to put on a gentleness\\nwhich I could not feel, but this attempt did not cheat the keen-\\nness of the sufferer he could not have felt the less deserted,\\nbecause that I was with him.\\nWe called to aid a solemn Armenian (I think he was), half\\nsoothsayer, half hakim, or doctor, who, all the while counting\\nhis beads, fixed his eyes steadily upon the patient, and then\\nsuddenly dealt him a violent blow in the chest. Methley bravely\\ndissembled his pain, for he fancied that the blow was meant to\\ntry whether or not the plague were on him.\\nHere was really a sad embarrassment no bed nothing to\\noffer the invalid in the shape of food, save a piece of thin, tough,\\nflexible, drab-colored cloth, made of flour and mill-stones in\\nequal proportions, and called by the name of bread; 55 then\\nthe patient, of course, had no confidence in his medical man/ 5\\nand on the whole, the best chance of saving my comrade seemed\\nto be by taking him out of the reach of his doctor, and bearing\\nhim away to the neighborhood of some more genial consul.\\nBut how was this to be done Methley was much too ill to be\\nkept in the saddle, and wheel-carriages, as means of travelling,\\nwere unknown. There is, however, such a thing as an Ara-\\nba, 55 a vehicle drawn by oxen, in which the wives of a rich man\\nare sometimes dragged four or five miles over the grass by way\\nof recreation. The carriage is rudely framed, but you recog-\\nnize in the simple grandeur of its design a likeness to things\\nmajestic in short, if your carpenter s son were to make a\\nc Lord Mayor s coach for little Amy, he would build a carriage", "height": "4468", "width": "2820", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "20\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\nvery much in the style of a Turkish Araba. No one had ever\\nheard of horses being used for drawing a carriage in this part\\nof the world, but Necessity is the mother of Innovation, as well\\nas of Invention. I was fully justified, I think, in arguing that\\nthere were numerous instances of horses being used for that\\npurpose in our own country that the laws of nature are uniform\\nin their operation over all the world (except Ireland) that that\\nwhich was true in Piccadilly, must be true in Adrianople that\\nthe matter could not fairly be treated as an ecclesiastical ques-\\ntion, for that the circumstance of Methley s going on to Stam-\\nboul in an Araba drawn by horses, when calmly and dispassion-\\nately considered, would appear to be perfectly consistent with\\nthe maintenance of the Mahometan religion, as by law esta-\\nblished. Thus poor, dear, patient Reason would have fought\\nher slow battle against Asiatic prejudice, and I am convinced\\nthat she would have established the possibility (and perhaps,\\neven the propriety) of harnessing horses in a hundred and fifty\\nyears but in the meantime Mysseri, well seconded by our\\nTatar, put a very quick end to the controversy, by having the\\nhorses put to..\\nIt was a sore thing for me to see my poor comrade brought to\\nthis, for young though he was, he was a veteran in travel\\nwhen scarcely yet of age, he had invaded India from the fron-\\ntiers of Russia, and that so swiftly, that measuring by the time\\nof his flight, the broad dominions of the King of Kings were\\nshrivelled up to a Dukedom, and now poor fellow, he was to be\\npoked into an Araba, like a Georgian girl He suffered greatly,\\nfor there were no springs for the carriage, and no road for the\\nwheels, and so the concern jolted on over the open country, with\\nsuch twists, and jerks, and jumps, as might almost dislocate the\\nsupple tongue of Satan.\\nAll day the patient kept himself shut up within the lattice-\\nwork of the Araba, and I could hardly know how he was faring\\nuntil the end of the day s journey, when I found that he was not\\nworse, and was buoyed up with the hope of some day reaching\\nConstantinople.\\nI was always conning over my maps, and fancied that I knew\\npretty well my line, but after Adrianople I had made more", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "chap, ii.] JOURNEY BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 21\\nsouthing than I knew for, and it was with unbelieving wonder,\\nand delight, that I came suddenly upon the shore of the sea a\\nlittle while, and its gentle billows were flowing beneath the\\nhoofs of my beast, but the hearing of the ripple was not enough\\ncommunion, and the seeing of the blue Propontis was not to\\nknow and possess it I must needs plunge into its depths, and\\nquench my longing love in the palpable waves and so when\\nold Moostapha (defender against demons) looked round for his\\ncharge, he saw with horror and dismay, that he for whose life\\nhis own life stood pledged, was possessed of some devil who had\\ndriven him down into the sea that the rider and the steed had\\nvanished from earth, and that out among the waves was the\\ngasping crest of a post horse, and the pale head of the English-\\nman moving upon the face of the waters.\\nWe started very early indeed, on the last day of our journey,\\nand from the moment of being off, until we gained the shelter of\\nthe imperial walls, we were struggling face to face with an icy\\nstorm that swept right down from the steppes of Tartary, keen,\\nfierce, and steady as a northern conqueror. Methley s servant,\\nwho was the greatest sufferer, kept his saddle until we reached\\nStamboul, but was then found to be quite benumbed in limbs,\\nand his brain was so much affected, that when he was lifted from\\nhis horse, he fell away in a state of unconsciousness, the first\\nstage of a dangerous fever.\\nMethley, in his Araba, had been sheltered from the storm, but\\nhe was sadly ill. I myself bore up capitally for a delicate per-\\nson, but I was so well watered, and the blood of my veins had\\nshrunk away so utterly from the chilling touch of the blast, that\\nI must have looked more fit for a watery grave, than for the city\\nof the Prince, whom men call Brother of the Sun.\\nOur Tatar, worn down by care and toil, and carrying seven\\nheavens full of water, in his manifold jackets and shawls, was\\na mere weak and vapid dilution of the sleek Moostapha, who\\nscarce more than one fortnight before came out like a bride-\\ngroom from his chamber, to take the command of our party.\\nMysseri seemed somewhat over-wearied, but he had lost none\\nof his strangely quiet energy he wore a grave look, however\\nfor he now had learnt that the plague was prevailing at Constan-", "height": "4448", "width": "2804", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "22\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. II.\\ntinople, and he was fearing that our two sick men, and the\\nmiserable looks of our whole party, might make us unwelcome\\nat Pera.\\nOur poor, dear portmanteaus, whose sharp, angular forms had\\nrebelled so rudely against the pack-saddles, were now reduced to\\nsoft, pulpy substances, and the things which were in them could\\nplainly be of no immediate use to anybody but a merman, or a\\nriver-god the carpet bags seemed to contain nothing but mere\\nsolutions of coats and boots, escaping drop by drop.\\nWe crossed the Golden Horn in a caique as soon as we had\\nlanded, some wo-begone looking fellows were got together, and\\nladen with our baggage. Then, on we went, dripping, and\\nsloshing, and looking very like men that had been turned back\\nby the Royal Humane Society, as being incurably drowned.\\nSupporting our sick, we climbed up shelving steps, and threaded\\nmany windings, and at last came up into the main street of Pera,\\nhumbly hoping that we might not be judged guilty of plague,\\nand so be cast back with horror from the doors of the shuddering\\nChristians.\\nSuch was the condition of our party, which fifteen days before\\nhad filed away so gaily from the gates of Belgrade. A couple\\nof fevers, and a north-easterly storm, had thoroughly spoiled our\\nlooks.\\nThe interest of Mysseri with the house of Giuseppeni was too\\npowerful to be denied, and at once, though not without fear and\\ntrembling, we were admitted as guests.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "CHAP. III.]\\nCONSTANTINOPLE.\\n23\\nCHAPTER III.\\nConstantinople.\\nEven if we don t take a part in the chaunt about Mosques and\\nMinarets/ we can still yield praises to Stamboul. We can\\nchaunt about the harbor we can say and sing, that nowhere\\nelse does the sea come so home to a city there are no pebbly\\nshores\u00e2\u0080\u0094 no sand bars no slimy river-beds no black canals\\nno locks nor docks to divide the very heart of the place from the\\ndeep waters if, being in the noisiest mart of Stamboul, you\\nwould stroll to the quiet side of the way amidst those Cypresses\\nopposite, you will cross the fathomless Bosphorus if you would\\ngo from your hotel to the Bazaars, you must go by the bright,\\nblue pathway of the Golden Horn, that can carry a thousand sail\\nof the line. You are accustomed to the Gondolas that glide\\namong the palaces of St. Mark, but here at Stamboul it is a\\nhundred and twenty gun ship that meets you in the street.\\nVenice strains out from the steadfast land, and in old times would\\nsend forth the Chief of the State to woo, and wed the reluctant\\nsea but the stormy bride of the Doge is the bowing slave of the\\nSultan she comes to his feet with the treasures of the world\\nshe bears him from palace to palace by some unfailing witch-\\ncraft, she entices the breezes to follow her,* and fan the pale cheek\\nof her lord she lifts his armed navies to the very gates of his\\ngarden she watches the walls of his Serail she stifles the in-\\ntrigues of his Ministers she quiets the scandals of his Court-\\nshe extinguishes his rivals, and hushes his naughty wives all\\none by one. So vast are the wonders of the Deep\\nAll the while that I stayed at Constantinople, the Plague was\\nprevailing, but not with any degree of violence its presence,\\nThere is almost always a breeze, either from the Marmora, or from\\nthe Black Sea 5 that passes along through the Bosphorus.", "height": "4432", "width": "2776", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN.\\n[chap. III.\\nhowever, lent a mysterious, and exciting, though not very plea-\\nsant interest to my first knowledge of a great Oriental city it\\ngave tone and color to all I saw, and all I felt a tone, and a\\ncolor sombre enough, but true, and well befitting the dreary\\nmonuments of past power and splendor. With all that is most\\ntruly oriental in its character, the Plague is associated it dwells\\nwith the faithful in the holiest quarters of their city the coats\\nand the hats of Pera are held to be nearly as innocent of infec-\\ntion, as they are ugly in shape and fashion but the rich furs,\\nand the costly shawls, the broidered slippers, and the gold-laden\\nsaddle-cloths the fragrance of burning aloes, and the rich\\naroma of patchouli these are the signs which mark the familiar\\nhome of Plague. You go out from your living London the\\ncentre of the greatest and strongest among all earthly dominions\\nyou go out thence, and travel on to the capital of an Eastern\\nPrince you find but a waning power, and a faded splendor,\\nthat inclines you to laugh and mock but let the infernal Angel\\nof Plague be at hand, and he, more mighty than armies more\\nterrible than Suleyman in his glory, can restore such pomp and\\nmajesty to the weakness of the Imperial walls, that if, when HE\\nis there, you must still go prying amongst the shades of this dead\\nEmpire, at least you will tread the path with seemly reverence\\nand awe.\\nIt is the firm faith of almost all the Europeans living in the East,\\nthat Plague is conveyed by the touch of infected substances, and\\nthat the deadly atoms especially lurk in all kinds of clothes and\\nfurs it is held safer to breathe the same air with a man sick of the\\nPlague, and even to come in contact with his skin, than to be\\ntouched by the smallest particle of woollen, or of thread, which\\nmay have been within the reach of possible infection. If this\\nnotion be correct, the spread of the malady must be materially\\naided by the observance of a custom which prevails amongst the\\npeople of Stamboul when an Osmanlee dies, it is usual to cut\\nup one of his dresses, and to send a small piece of it to each of\\nhis friends, as a memorial of the departed. A fatal present is\\nthis, according to the opinion of the Franks, for it too often\\nforces the living not merely to remember the dead man, but to\\nfollow and bear him company.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "CHAP. III.]\\nCONSTANTINOPLE.\\n25\\nThe Europeans during the prevalence of the Plague, if they\\nare forced to venture into the streets, will carefully avoid the\\ntouch of every human being whom they pass their conduct in\\nthis respect shows them strongly in contrast with the true\\nbelievers; the Moslem stalks on serenely, as though he were\\nunder the eye of his God, and were equal to either fate the\\nFranks go crouching, and slinking from death, and some (those\\nchiefly of French extraction) will fondly strive to fence out\\nDestiny with shining capes of oilskin\\nFor some time you may manage by great care to thread your\\nway through the streets of Stamboul, without incurring contact,\\nfor the Turks, though scornful of the terrors felt by the Franks,\\nare generally very courteous in yielding to that which they\\nhold to be a useless and -impious precaution, and will let you\\npass safe, if they can. It is impossible, however, that your im-\\nmunity can last for any length of time, if you move about much\\nthrough the narrow streets and lanes of a crowded city.\\nAs for me, I soon got compromised. After one day of\\nrest, the prayers of my hostess began to lose their power of\\nkeeping me from the pestilent side of the Golden Horn. Faith-\\nfully promising to shun the touch of all imaginable substances,\\nhowever enticing, I set off very cautiously, and held my way\\nuncompromised, till I reached the water s edge but during the\\nmoment that I was waiting for my caique, some rueful-looking\\nfellows came rapidly shambling down the steps with a plague-\\nstricken corpse, which they were going to bury amongst the\\nfaithful on the other side of the water. I contrived to be so\\nmuch in the way of this brisk funeral, that I was not only\\ntouched by the men bearing the body, but also, I believe, by\\nthe foot of the dead man, which was lolling out of the bier.\\nThis accident gave me such a strong interest in denying the\\nsoundness of the contagion theory, that I did in fact deny, and\\nrepudiate it altogether and from that time, acting upon my own\\nconvenient view of the matter, I went wherever I chose, without\\ntaking any serious pains to avoid a touch. I have now some\\nreason to think that the Europeans may be right, and that the\\nPlague may be really conveyed by contagion but whilst I\\nremained in the East, I happily entertained ideas more ap-", "height": "4448", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "26\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. III.\\nproaching to those of the fatalist and so, when I afterwards\\nencountered the Plague in full force, I was able to live amongst\\nthe dying with much less anxiety of mind, than I should have\\nsuffered, if I had believed that every touch which I met with,\\nwas a possible death-stroke.\\nAnd perhaps as you make your difficult way through a steep\\nand narrow alley, which winds between blank walls, and is\\nlittle frequented by passers, you meet one of those coffin-shaped\\nbundles of white linen which implies an Ottoman lady. Pain-\\nfully struggling against the obstacles to progression which are\\ninterposed by the many folds of her clumsy drapery, by her\\nbig mud boots, and especially by her two pairs of slippers, she\\nwaddles along full awkwardly enough, but yet there is some-\\nthing of womanly consciousness in the very labor and effort\\nwith which she tugs and lifts the burthen of her charms she is\\nclose followed by her women slaves. Of her very self you see\\nnothing, except the dark, luminous eyes that stare against your\\nface, and the tips of the painted fingers depending like rose-\\nbuds from out the blank bastions of the fortress. She turns, and\\nturns again, and carefully glances around her on all sides, to\\nsee that she is safe from the eyes of Mussulmans, and then sud-\\ndenly withdrawing the yashmak,* she shines upon your heart\\nand soul with all the pomp and might of her beauty. And this\\nwhich so dizzies your brain is not the light, changeful grace,\\nwhich leaves you to doubt whether you have fallen in love with\\na body, or only a soul it is the beauty that dwells secure in\\nthe perfectness of hard, downright outlines, and in the glow of\\ngenerous color. There is fire, though, too high courage, and\\nfire enough in the untamed mind, or spirit, or whatever it is,\\nwhich drives the breath of pride through those scarcely parted\\nlips.\\nYou smile at pretty women you turn pale before the beauty\\nthat is great enough to have dominion over you. She sees, and\\nexults in your giddiness she sees and smiles then presently,\\nThe Yashmak, you know, is not a mere semi-transparent veil, but rather\\na good substantial petticoat applied to the face it thoroughly conceals all\\nthe features, except the eyes the way of withdrawing it is by pulling it\\ndown.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "CHAP. III.]\\nCONSTANTINOPLE.\\n27\\nwith a sudden movement, she lays her blushing fingers upon\\nyour arm, and cries out, Yumourdjak (Plague meaning\\nthere is a present of the Plague for you This is her no-\\ntion of a witticism it is a very old piece of fun, no doubt quite\\nan oriental Joe Miller but the Turks are fondly attached, not\\nonly to the institutions, but also to the jokes of their ancestors\\nso, the lady s silvery laugh rings joyously in your ears, and\\nthe mirth of her women is boisterous and fresh, as though the\\nbright idea of giving the Plague to a Christian had newly lit\\nupon the earth.\\nMethley began to rally very soon after we had reached Con-\\nstantinople, but there seemed at first to be no chance of his re-\\ngaining strength enough for travelling during the winter and\\nI determined to stay with my comrade, until he had quite re-\\ncovered so I got a horse, and a pipe of tranquillity, and took\\na Turkish phrase-master. I troubled myself a great deal with\\nthe Turkish tongue, and gained at last some knowledge of its\\nstructure it is enriched, perhaps overladen, with Persian and\\nArabic words, which have been imported into the language,\\nchiefly for the purpose of representing sentiments and religious\\ndogmas, and terms of art and luxury, which were all unknown\\nto the Tartar ancestors of the present Osmanlees but the body\\nand spirit of the old tongue is yet alive, and the smooth words\\nof the shop-keeper at Constantinople can still carry understand-\\ning to the ears of the untamed millions who rove over the plains\\nof Northern Asia. The structure of the language, especially\\nin its more lengthy sentences, is very like to the Latin the\\nsubject matters are slowly and patiently enumerated, without\\ndisclosing the purpose of the speaker until he reaches the end\\nof his sentence, and then at last there comes the clenching word,\\nwhich gives a meaning and connexion to all that has gone\\nbefore. If you listen at all to speaking of this kind, your atten-\\ntion, rather than be suffered to flag, must grow more and more\\nlively, as the phrase marches on.\\nThe Osmanlees speak well. In countries civilized according\\nto the European plan, the work of trying to persuade tribunals\\nis almost all performed by a set of men, the great body of whom\\nvery seldom do anything else but in Turkey, this division of", "height": "4432", "width": "2808", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN.\\n[chap. III.\\nlabor has never taken place, and every man is his own advocate.\\nThe importance of the rhetorical art is immense, for a bad speech\\nmay endanger the property of the speaker, as well as the soles\\nof his feet, and the free enjoyment of his throat. So it results\\nthat most of the Turks whom one sees, have a lawyer-like habit\\nof speaking connectedly, and at length. The treaties continually\\ngoing on in the bazaar for the buying and selling of the merest\\ntrifles, are carried on by speechifying, rather than by mere\\ncolloquies, and the eternal uncertainty as to the market value of\\nthings in constant sale, gives room for endless discussion. The\\nseller is for ever demanding a price immensely beyond that for\\nwhich he sells at last, and so occasions unspeakable disgust to\\nmany Englishmen, who cannot see why an honest dealer should\\nask more for his goods than he will really take the truth is,\\nhowever, that an ordinary tradesman of Constantinople has no\\nother way of finding out the fair market value of his property.\\nThe difficulty under which he labors is easily shown by com-\\nparing the mechanism of the commercial system in Turkey,\\nwith that of our own country. In England, or in any other\\ngreat mercantile country, the bulk of the things which are\\nbought and sold, goes through the hands of a wholesale dealer,\\nand it is he who higgles and bargains with an entire nation of\\npurchasers, by entering into treaty with retail sellers. The\\nlabor of making a few large contracts is sufficient to give a clue\\nfor finding the fair market value of the things sold throughout\\nthe country but in Turkey, from the primitive habits of the\\npeople, and partly from the absence of great capital, and great\\ncredit, the importing merchant, the warehouseman, the whole-\\nsale dealer, and the shopman, are all one person. Old Moostapha,\\nor Abdallah, or Hadgi Mohamed, waddles up from the water s\\nedge with a small packet of merchandize, which he has bought\\nout of a Greek ,brigantine, and when at last he has reached his\\nnook in the bazaar, he puts his goods before the counter, and\\nhimself upon it then laying fire to his tchibouque he sits in\\npermanence, 5 and patiently waits to obtain the best price that\\ncan be got in an open market. This is his fair right as a sel-\\nler, but he has no means of finding out what that best price is,\\nexcept by actual experiment. He cannot know the intensity of", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "CHAP. III.]\\nCONSTANTINOPLE.\\n29\\nthe demand, or the abundance of the supply, otherwise than by\\nthe offers which may be made for his little bundle of goods so\\nhe begins by asking a perfectly hopeless price, and thence\\ndescends the ladder until he meets a purchaser, for ever\\nstriving to attain\\nBy shadowing out the unattainable.\\nThis is the struggle which creates the continual occasion for\\ndebate. The vendor, perceiving that the unfolded merchandize\\nhas caught the eye of a possible purchaser, commences his\\nopening speech. He covers his bristling broadcloths, and his\\nmeagre silks, with the golden broidery of oriental praises, and\\nas he talks, along with the slow and graceful waving of his\\narms, he lifts his undulating periods, upholds, and poises them\\nwell, till they have gathered their weight, and their strength,\\nand then hurls them bodily forward, with grave, momentous\\nswing. The possible purchaser listens to the whole speech with\\ndeep and serious attention but when it is over, his turn ar-\\nrives he elaborately endeavors to show why he ought not to\\nbuy the things at a price twenty times more than their value\\nbystanders, attracted to the debate, take a part in it as indepen-\\ndent members the vendor is heard in reply, and coming down\\nwith his price, furnishes the materials for a new debate. Some-\\ntimes, however, the dealer, if he is a very pious Mussulman,\\nand sufficiently rich to hold back his ware, will take a more\\ndignified part, maintaining a kind of judicial gravity, and receiv-\\ning the applicants who come to his stall, as if they were rather\\nsuitors, than customers. He will quietly he r to the end, some\\nlong speech which concludes with an offer, and will answer it\\nall with the one monosyllable Yok, which means distinctly\\nNo.\\nI caught one glimpse of the old Heathen World. My habits\\nof studying military subjects had been hardening my heart\\nagainst Poetry. For ever staring at the flames of battle, I had\\nblinded myself to the lesser and finer lights that are shed from the\\nimaginations of men. In my reading at this time, I delighted to\\nfollow from out of Arabian sands, the feet of the armed believers,", "height": "4460", "width": "2800", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "30\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. III.\\nand to stand in the broad, manifest storm-track of Tartar devas-\\ntation and thus, though surrounded at Constantinople, by scenes\\nof much interest to the classical scholar, I had cast aside their\\nassociations like an old Greek grammar, and turned my face to\\nthe shining Orient, forgetful of old Greece, and all the pure\\nwealth she has left to this matter-of-fact-ridden world. But it\\nhappened to me one day to mount the high grounds overhang-\\ning the streets of Pera I sated my eyes with the pomps of the\\ncity, and its crowded waters, and then I looked over where\\nScutari lay half veiled in her mournful cypresses I looked yet\\nfarther, and higher, and saw in the heavens a silvery cloud that\\nstood fast, and still against the breeze it was pure, and daz-\\nzling white as might be the veil of Cytherea, yet touched with\\nfire, as though from beneath, the loving eyes of an immortal\\nwere shining through and through. I knew the bearing, but\\nhad enormously misjudged its distance, and underrated its\\nheight, and so it was a sign and a testimony almost as a call\\nfrom the neglected gods, that now I saw and acknowledged the\\nsnowy crown of the Mysian Olympus", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "CHAP. IV.]\\nTHE TROAD.\\n31\\nCHAPTER IV.\\nThe Troad.\\nMethley recovered almost suddenly, and we determined to go\\nthrough the Troad together.\\nMy comrade was a capital Grecian it is true that his singu-\\nlar mind so ordered and disposed the classic lore which he had\\ngained, as to impress it with something of an original and bar-\\nbarous character with an almost Gothic quaintness, more\\nproperly belonging to a rich native ballad, than to the poetry of\\nHellas there was a certain impropriety in his knowing so much\\nGreek an unfitness in the idea of marble fauns, and satyrs,\\nand even Olympian Gods, lugged in under the oaken roof, and\\nthe painted light of an odd old Norman hall. But Methley\\nabounding in Homer, really loved him (as I believe) in all\\ntruth, without whim or fancy moreover, he had a good deal of\\nthe practical sagacity, or sharpness, or whatever you call it\\nof a Yorkshireman hippodamoio,\\nand this enabled him to apply his knowledge with much more\\ntact than is usually shown by people so learned as he.\\nI, too, loved Homer, but not with a scholar s love. The most\\nhumble and pious amongst women was yet so proud a mother\\nthat she could teach her first-born son, no Watts hymns no\\ncollects for the day she could teach him in earliest childhood,\\nno less than this to find a home in his saddle, and to love old\\nHomer, and all that Homer sung. True it is, that the Greek\\nwas ingeniously rendered into English the English of Pope\\neven, but it is not such a mesh as that, that can screen an\\nearnest child from the fire of Homer s battles.\\n1 pored over the Odyssey as over a story-book, hoping and\\nfearing for the hero whom yet I partly scorned. But the Iliad", "height": "4456", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "32\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. IV.\\nline by line, I clasped it to my brain with reverence as well as\\nwith love. As an old woman deeply trustful sits reading her\\nBible because of the world to come, so, as though it would fit\\nme for the coming strife of this temporal world, I read, and read\\nthe Iliad. Even outwardly it was not like other books it was\\nthroned in towering folios. There was a preface or dissertation\\nprinted in type still more majestic than the rest of the book\\nthis I read, but not till my enthusiasm for the Iliad had already\\nrun high. The writer, compiling the opinions of many men, and\\nchiefly of the ancients, set forth, I know not how quaintly, that\\nthe Iliad was all in all to the human race that it was history\\npoetry revelation that the works of men s hands were folly\\nand vanity, and would pass away like the dreams of a child,\\nbut that the kingdom of Homer would endure for ever and ever.\\nI assented with all my soul. I read, and still read I came\\nto know Homer. A learned commentator knows something of\\nthe Greeks, in the same sense as an oil-and-color-man may be\\nsaid to know something of painting, but take an untamed child,\\nand leave him alone for twelve months with any translation of\\nHomer, and he will be nearer by twenty centuries to the spirit\\nof old Greece he does not stop in the ninth year of the siege,\\nto admire this or that group of words he has no books in his\\ntent, but he shares in vital counsels with the King of men,\\nand knows the inmost souls of the impending Gods how pro-\\nfanely he exults over the powers divine, when they are taught\\nto dread the prowess of mortals and most of all how he rejoices\\nwhen the God of War flies howling from the spear of Diomed,\\nand mounts into Heaven for safety Then the beautiful episode\\nof the 6th Book the way to feel this is not to go casting about,\\nand learning from pastors, and masters, how best to admire it\\nthe impatient child is not grubbing for beauties, but pushing the\\nsiege the women vex him with their delays, and their talking\\nthe mention of the nurse is personal, and little sympathy has\\nhe for the child that is young enough to be frightened at the\\nnodding plume of a helmet, but all the while that he thus chafes\\nat the pausing of the action, the strong vertical light of Homer s\\nPoetry is blazing so full upon the people, and things of the Iliad,\\nthat soon to the eyes of the child, they grow familiar as his", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "CHAP. IV.]\\nTHE TROAD.\\n33\\nmother s shawl yet of this great gain he is unconscious, and\\non he goes, vengefully thirsting for the best blood of Troy, and\\nnever remitting Jiis fierceness, till almost suddenly it is changed\\nfor sorrow the new and generous sorrow that he learns to feel,\\nwhen the noblest of all his foes lies sadly dying at the Scsean\\ngate.\\nHeroic days were these, but the dark ages of school-boy life\\ncame closing over them. I suppose it s all right in the end, yet,\\nby Jove, at first sight, it does seem a sad intellectual fall from\\nyour mother s dressing-room to a buzzing school. You feel so\\nkeenly the delights of early knowledge you form strange\\nmystic friendships with the mere names of mountains, and seas,\\nand continents, and mighty rivers you learn the ways of the\\nplanets, and transcend their narrow limits, and ask for the end\\nof space you vex the electric cylinder till it yields you, for\\nyour toy to play with, that subtle fire in which our earth was\\nforged you know of the nations that have towered high in the\\nworld, and the lives of the men who have saved whole Empires\\nfrom oblivion. What more will you ever learn 1 Yet the dis-\\nmal change is ordained, and then, thin, meagre Latin (the same\\nfor everybody), with small shreds and patches of Greek, is\\nthrown like a pauper s pall over all your early lore instead of\\nsweet knowledge, vile, monkish, doggerel grammars, and\\ngraduses, Dictionaries, and Lexicons, and horrible odds and\\nends of dead languages are given you for your portion, and\\ndown you fall, from Roman story to a three inch scrap of\\nScriptores Romani, from Greek poetry, down, down to the\\ncold rations of Poetse Graeci, cut up by commentators, and\\nserved out by schoolmasters\\nIt was not the recollection of school, nor college learning, but\\nthe rapturous and earnest reading of my childhood which made\\nme bend forward so longingly to the plains of Troy.\\nAway from our people and our horses, Methley and I went\\nloitering along, by the willowy banks of a stream that crept in\\nquietness through the low, even plain. There was no stir of\\nweather over-head no sound of rural labor no sign of life in\\nthe land, but all the earth was dead, and still, as though it had\\n4", "height": "4424", "width": "2896", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "34\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. IV.\\nlain for thrice a thousand years under the leaden gloom of one\\nunbroken sabbath.\\nSoftly and sadly the poor, dumb, patient stream went wind-\\ning, and winding along through its shifting pathway in some\\nplaces its waters were parted, and then again, lower down, they\\nwould meet once more. I could see the stream from year to\\nyear was finding itself new channels, and flowed no longer in\\nits ancient track, but I knew that the springs which fed it were\\nhigh on Ida the springs of Simois and Scamander\\nIt was coldly, and thanklessly, and with vacant unsatisfied\\neyes that I watched the slow coming, and the gliding away of\\nthe waters I tell myself now, as a profane fact, that I did\\nindeed stand by that river (Methley gathered some seeds from\\nthe bushes that grew there), but, since that I am away from\\nhis banks, divine Scamander has recovered the proper\\nmystery belonging to him, as an unseen deity a kind of indis-\\ntinctness, like that which belongs to far antiquity, has spread\\nitself over my memory, of the winding stream that I saw with\\nthese very eyes. One s mind regains in absence that dominion\\nover earthly things which has been shaken by their rude contact\\nyou force yourself hardily into the material presence of a moun-\\ntain, or a river, whose name belongs to poetry and ancient reli-\\ngion, rather than to the external world your feelings wound up\\nand kept ready for some sort of half-expected rapture are\\nchilled, and borne down for the time under all this load of real\\nearth and water but, let these once pass out of sight, and then\\nagain the old fanciful notions are restored, and the mere realities\\nwhich you have just been looking at are thrown back so far into\\ndistance, that the very event of your intrusion upon such\\nscenes begins to look dim, and uncertain as though it belonged\\nto mythology.\\nIt is not over the plain before Troy that the river now flows\\nits waters have edged away far towards the north, since the day\\nthat divine Scamander (whom the gods call Xanthus) went\\ndown to do battle for Ilion, with Mars, and Phoebus, and Latona,\\nand Diana glorying in her arrows, and Venus the lover of\\nsmiles.\\nAnd now, when I was vexed at the migration of Scamander,\\nand the total loss or absorption of poor dear Simois, how happily", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "CHAP. IV.]\\nTHE TROAD.\\n35\\nMethley reminded me that Homer himself had warned us of\\nsome such changes The Greeks, in beginning their wall, had\\nneglected the hecatombs due to the gods and so, after the fall\\nof Troy, Apollo turned the paths of the rivers that flow from\\nIda, and sent them flooding over the wall till all the beach was\\nsmooth, and free from the unhallowed works of the Greeks. It\\nis true, I see now, on looking to the passage, that Neptune,\\nwhen the work of destruction was done, turned back the rivers\\nto their ancient ways\\nirorcifiovs S erpsxps veesBai\\nKa/ poov 7)irep rrpoo-dev tsv KaWippoov vdoip,\\nbut their old channels passing through that light pervious soil\\nwould have been lost in the nine days flood, and perhaps the\\ngod, when he willed to bring back the rivers to their ancient\\nbeds, may have done his work but ill it is easier, they say, to\\ndestroy than it is to restore.\\nWe took to our horses again, and went southward towards\\nthe very plain between Troy and the tents of the Greeks, but we\\nrode by a line at some distance from the shore. Whether it was\\nthat the lay of the ground hindered my view towards the sea, or\\nthat I was all intent upon Ida, or whether my mind was in\\nvacancy, or whether, as is most like, I had strayed from the\\nDardan plains, all back to gentle England, there is now no\\nknowing, nor caring, but it was not quite suddenly indeed, but\\nrather as it were, in the swelling and falling of a single wave,\\nthat the reality of that very sea-view, which had bounded the\\nsight of the Greeks, now visibly acceded to me, and rolled full\\nin upon my brain. Conceive how deeply that eternal coast-line\\nthat fixed horizon those island rocks must have graven their\\nimages upon the minds of the Grecian warriors by the time that\\nthey had reached the ninth year of the siege! conceive the\\nstrength, and the fanciful beauty, of the speeches with which a\\nwhole army of imagining men must have told their weariness,\\nand how the sauntering chiefs must have whelmed that daily,\\ndaily scene with their deep Ionian curses\\nAnd now it was that my eyes were greeted with a delightful\\nsurprise. Whilst we were at Constantinople, Methley and I had\\npored over the map together we agreed that whatever may", "height": "4396", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "36\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. IV.\\nhave been the exact site of Troy, the Grecian camp must have\\nbeen nearly opposite to the space betwixt the islands of Imbros\\nand Tenedos\\nMeocrryyvs TlsveSoio tcai IjiPpov 7ranra\\\\oe(r Tr)$\\nbut Methley reminded me of a passage in the Iliad in which Jove\\nis represented as looking at the scene of action before Ilion from\\nabove the Island of Samothrace. Now, Samothrace, according\\nto the map, appeared to be not only out of all seeing distance\\nfrom the Troad, but to be entirely shut out from it by the inter-\\nvening Imbros, which is a larger island, stretching its length\\nright athwart the line of sight from Samothrace to Troy.\\nPiously allowing that the eagle-eye of Jove might have seen\\nthe strife even from his own Olympus, I still felt that if a station\\nwere to be chosen from which to see the fight, old Homer, so\\nmaterial in his ways of thought, so averse from all haziness and\\nover-reaching, would have meant to give the Thunderer a sta-\\ntion within the reach of men s eyes from the plains of Troy.\\nI think that this testing of the poet s words by map and compass,\\nmay have shaken a little of my faith in the completeness of his\\nknowledge. Well, now I had come there to the south was\\nTenedos, and here at my side was Imbros, all right, and\\naccording to the map, but aloft over Imbros aloft in a far-away\\nHeaven was Samothrace, the watch-tower of Jove\\nSo Homer had appointed it, and so it was the map was cor-\\nrect enough, but could not, like Homer, convey the whole truth.\\nThus vain and false are the mere human surmises and doubts\\nwhich clash with Homeric writ\\nNobody, whose mind had not been reduced to the most de-\\nplorably logical condition, could look upon this beautiful con-\\ngruity betwixt the Iliad and the material world, and yet bear to\\nsuppose that the poet may have learned the features of the coast\\nfrom mere hearsay; now then, I believed now I knew that\\nHomer had passed along here that this vision of Samothrace\\nover-towering the nearer island was common to him and to me.\\nAfter a journey of some few days by the route of Adramiti\\nand Pergamo, we reached Smyrna. The letters which Methley\\nhere received obliged him to return to England.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "CHAP. V.]\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA.\\n37\\nCHAPTER V.\\nInfidel Smyrna.\\nSmyrna, or Giaour Izmir, as the Mussulmans call it, is the\\nmain point of commercial contact betwixt Europe and Asia\\nyou are there surrounded by the people, and the confused cus-\\ntoms of many, and various nations you see the fussy European\\nadopting the East, and calming his restlessness with the long\\nTurkish pipe of tranquillity you see Jews offering services,\\nand receiving blows* on one side you have a fellow whose\\ndress and beard would give you a good idea of the true oriental,\\nif it were not for the gobe-mouche expression of countenance\\nwith which he is swallowing an article in the National, and\\nthere, just by, is a genuine Osmanlee, smoking away with all\\nthe majesty of a Sultan, but before you have time to admire\\nsufficiently his tranquil dignity, and his soft Asiatic repose, the\\npoor old fellow is ruthlessly run down by an English mid-\\nshipman, who has set sail on a Smyrna hack. Such are the\\nincongruities of the infidel city, at ordinary times but when\\nI was there, our friend Carrigaholt had imported himself, and\\nhis oddities, as an accession to the other and inferior wonders\\nThe Jews of Smyrna are poor, and having little merchandize of their\\nown to dispose of, they are sadly importunate in offering their services as\\nintermediaries their troublesome conduct has led to the custom of beating\\nthem in the open streets. It is usual for Europeans to carry long sticks with\\nthem for the express purpose of keeping off the chosen people. I always\\nfelt ashamed to strike the poor fellows myself, but I confess to the amuse-\\nment with which I witnessed the observance of this custom by other people\\nthe Jew seldom got hurt much, for he was always expecting the blow, and\\nwas ready to recede from it the moment it came one could not help being\\nrather gratified at seeing him bound away so nimbly with his long robes\\nfloating out in the air, and then again wheel round, and return with fresh\\nimportunities.", "height": "4464", "width": "2868", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "38\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. v.\\nof Smyrna. I was sitting alone in my room one day at Con-\\nstantinople, when I heard Methley approaching my door with\\nshouts of laughter and welcome, and presently I recognized\\nthat peculiar cry by which our friend Carrigaholt expresses his\\nemotions he soon explained to us the final causes by which the\\nfates had worked out their wonderful purpose of bringing him\\nto Constantinople. He was always, you know, very fond of\\nsailing, but he had got into such sad scrapes (including I think\\na lawsuit) on account of his last yacht, that he took it into his\\nhead to have a cruise in a merchant vessel, so he went to Liver-\\npool, and looked through the craft lying ready to sail, till he\\nfound a smart schooner which perfectly suited his taste the\\ndestination of the vessel was the last thing he thought of, and\\nwhen he was told that she was bound for Constantinople, he\\nmerely assented to that as a part of the arrangement to which\\nhe had no objection. When the vessel had sailed, the hapless\\npassenger discovered that his skipper carried on board an enor-\\nmous wife with an inquiring mind, and an irresistible tendency\\nto impart her opinions. She looked upon her guest as upon a\\npiece of waste intellect that ought to be carefully tilled. She\\ntilled him accordingly. If the Dons at Oxford could have seen\\npoor Carrigaholt thus absolutely attending lectures in the\\nbay of Biscay, they would surely have thought him sufficiently\\npunished for all the wrongs he did them, whilst he was preparing\\nhimself under their care for the other, and more boisterous\\nUniversity. The voyage did not last more than six or eight\\nweeks, and the philosophy inflicted on Carrigaholt was not\\nentirely fatal to him certainly he was somewhat emaciated, and\\nfor aught I know, he may have subscribed somewhat too largely\\nto the Feminine-right-of-reason Society but it did not appear\\nthat his health had been seriously affected. There was a\\nscheme on foot, it would seem, for taking the passenger back to\\nEngland in the same schooner a scheme, in fact, for keeping\\nhim perpetually afloat, and perpetually saturated with argu-\\nments; but when Carrigaholt found himself ashore, and re-\\nmembered that the skipperina (who had imprudently remained\\non board), was not there to enforce her suggestions, he was open\\nto the hints of his servant (a very sharp fellow), who arranged", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "CHAP. V.]\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA.\\n39\\na plan for escaping, and finally brought off his master to Giu-\\nseppini s Hotel.\\nOur friend afterwards went by sea to Smyrna, and there he\\nnow was in his glory. He had a good, or at all events a gen-\\ntleman-like judgment in matters of taste, and as his great object\\nwas to surround himself with all that his fancy could dictate,\\nhe lived in a state of perpetual negotiation he was for ever on\\nthe point of purchasing, not only the material productions of\\nthe place, but all sorts of such fine ware as intelligence/\\nfidelity, and so on. He was most curious, however, as a\\npurchaser of the affections. Sometimes he would imagine\\nthat he had a marital aptitude, and his fancy would sketch a\\ngraceful picture, in which he appeared reclining on a divan,\\nwith a beautiful Greek woman fondly couched at his feet, and\\nsoothing him with the witchery of her guitar having satisfied\\nhimself with the ideal picture thus created, he would pass into\\naction the guitar he would buy instantly, and would give such\\nintimations of his wish to be wedded to a Greek, as could /iot\\nfail to produce great excitement in the families of the beautiful\\nSmyrniotes. Then again (and just in time perhaps to save\\nhim from the yoke), his dream would pass away, and another\\nwould come in its stead he would suddenly feel the yearnings\\nof a father s love, and willing by force of gold to transcend all\\nnatural preliminaries, he would give instructions for the pur-\\nchase of some dutiful child that could be warranted to love him\\nas a parent. Then at another time he would be convinced that\\nthe attachment of menials might satisfy the longings of his\\naffectionate heart, and thereupon he would give orders to his\\nslave-merchant for something in the way of eternal fidelity.\\nYou may well imagine that this anxiety of Carrigaholt to pur-\\nchase (not only the scenery) but the many dramatis personse\\nbelonging to his dreams, with all their goodness, and graces\\ncomplete, necessarily gave an immense stimulus to the trade\\nand intrigue of Smyrna, and created a demand for human vir-\\ntues which the moral resources of the place were totally inade-\\nquate to supply. Every day after breakfast, this lover of the\\nGood and the Beautiful held a levee, which was often exceedingly\\namusing in his ante-room, there would be not only the sellers", "height": "4452", "width": "2872", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "40:\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. v.\\nof pipes, and slippers, and shawls, and such like Oriental mer-\\nchandize, not only embroiderers, and cunning workmen patiently\\nstriving to realize his visions of Albanian dresses not only the\\nservants offering for places, and the slave-dealer tendering his\\nsable ware, but there would be the Greek master, waiting to\\nteach his pupil the grammar of the soft Ionian tongue, in which\\nhe was to delight the wife of his imagination, and the music-\\nmaster who was to teach him some sweet replies to the antici-\\npated sounds of the fancied guitar; and then above all, and\\nproudly eminent with undisputed preference of entree, and\\nfraught with the mysterious tidings on which the realization of\\nthe whole drama might depend, was the mysterious match-\\nmaker,* enticing, and postponing the suitor, yet ever keeping\\nalive in his soul the love of that pictured virtue whose beauty\\n(unseen by eyes) was half revealed to the Imagination.\\nYou would have thought that this practical dreaming must\\nhave soon brought Carrigaholt to a bad end, but he was in much\\nless danger than you would suppose for besides that the new\\nvisions of happiness almost always came in time to counteract\\nthe fatal completion of the preceding scheme, his high breeding\\nand his delicately sensitive taste almost always came to his aid,\\nat times, when he was left without any other protection, and the\\nefficacy of these qualities in keeping a man out of harm s way\\nis really immense in all baseness and imposture there is a\\ncoarse, vulgar spirit, which, however artfully concealed for a\\ntime, must sooner or later show itself in some little circum-\\nstance, sufficiently plain to occasion an instant jar upon the\\nminds of those whose taste is lively and true to such men a shock\\nof this kind disclosing the ugliness of a cheat, is more effec-\\ntively convincing than any mere proofs could be.\\nThus guarded from isle to isle, and through Greece, and\\nthrough Albania, this practical Plato, with a purse in his hand,\\ncarried on his mad chase after the Good and the Beautiful, and\\nyet returned in safety to his home. But now, poor fellow the\\nlowly grave, that is the end of men s romantic hopes, has closed\\nMarriages in the East are arranged by professed match-makers many\\nof these, I believe, are Jewesses.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "CHAP. V.]\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA.\\n41\\nover all his rich fancies, and all his high aspirations he is\\nutterly married No more hope, no mdre change for him no\\nmore relays he must go on Vetturini-wise to the appointed end\\nof his journey\\nSmyrna, I think, may be called the chief town, and capital of\\nthe Grecian race, against which you will be cautioned so care-\\nfully as soon as you touch the Levant. You will say that I\\nought not to confound as one people the Greeks living under a\\nconstitutional government, with the unfortunate Rayahs who\\ngroan under the Turkish yoke, but I can t see that political\\nevents have hitherto produced any strongly marked difference\\nof character. If I could venture to rely (which I feel that I\\ncannot at all do) upon my own observation, I should tell you\\nthat there was more heartiness and strength in the Greeks of\\nthe Ottoman Empire than in those of the new kingdom the\\ntruth is, that there is a greater field for commercial enterprise,\\nand even for Greek ambitions, under the Ottoman sceptre, than\\nis to be found in the dominions of Otho. Indeed the people, by\\ntheir frequent migrations from the limits of the constitutional\\nkingdom, to the territories of the Porte, seem to show, that, on\\nthe whole, they prefer groaning under the Turkish yoke, to\\nthe honor of being the only true source of legitimate power,\\nin their own land.\\nFor myself, I love the race in spite of all their vices, and\\neven in spite of all their meanness, I remember the blood that\\nis in them, and still love the Greeks. The Osmanlees are, of\\ncourse, by nature, by religion, and by politics, the strong foes\\nof the Hellenic people, and as the Greeks, poor fellows hap-\\npen to be a little deficient in some of the virtues which facilitate\\nthe transaction of commercial business (such as veracity, fidel-\\nity, c), it naturally follows that they are highly unpopular\\nwith the European merchants. Now, these are the persons\\nthrough whom, either directly or indirectly, is derived the\\ngreater part of the information which you gather in the Levant,\\nand therefore you must make up your mind to hear an almost\\nuniversal and unbroken testimony against the character of the\\npeople, whose ancestors invented Virtue. And strange to say,\\nthe Greeks themselves do not attempt to disturb this general una-", "height": "4464", "width": "2844", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "42\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. v.\\nnimity of opinion by any dissent on their part. Question a\\nGreek on the subject, and he will tell you at once that the people\\nare traditori, and will then, perhaps, endeavor to shake off\\nhis fair share of the imputation, by asserting that his father had\\nbeen dragoman to some foreign embassy, and that he (the son),\\ntherefore, by the law of nations, had ceased to be Greek.\\nE dunque no siete traditore\\nPossibile, Signor, ma almeno Io no sono Greco.\\nNot even the diplomatic representatives of the Hellenic king-\\ndom are free from the habit of depreciating their brethren. I\\nrecollect, that at one of the ports in Syria, a Greek vessel was\\nrather unfairly kept in quarantine by order of the Board of\\nHealth, which consisted entirely of Europeans. A consular\\nagent from the kingdom of Greece had lately hoisted his flag in\\nthe town, and the captain of the vessel drew up a remonstrance,\\nwhich he requested his consul to present to the Board.\\nNow, is this reasonable said the consul, is it reasonable\\nthat I should place myself in collision with all the principal\\nEuropean gentlemen of the place for the sake of you, a Greek\\nThe skipper was greatly vexed at the failure of his application,\\nbut he scarcely even questioned the justice of the ground which\\nhis consul had taken. Well, it happened some time afterwards,\\nthat I found myself at the same port, having gone thither with\\nthe view of embarking for the port of Syra. I was anxious of\\ncourse to elude as carefully as possible the quarantine detention\\nwhich threatened me on my arrival, and hearing that the Greek\\nconsul had a brother who was a man in authority at Syra, I got\\nmyself presented to the former, and took the liberty of asking\\nhim to give me such a letter of introduction to his relative at\\nSyra, as might possibly have the effect of shortening the term\\nof my quarantine, he acceded to this request with the utmost\\nkindness and courtesy but when he replied to my thanks by\\nsaying that in serving an Englishman he was doing no more\\nthan his strict duty commanded, not even my gratitude could\\nprevent me from calling to mind his treatment of the poor cap-\\ntain who had the misfortune of not being alien in blood to his\\nconsul, and appointed protector.\\nI think that the change which has taken place in the charac-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "CHAP. V.]\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA.\\n43\\nter of the Greeks has been occasioned, in great measure, by the\\ndoctrines and practice of their religion. The Greek Church\\nhas animated the Muscovite peasant, and inspired him with\\nhopes and ideas, which, however humble, are still better than\\nnone at all but the faith, and the forms, and the strange eccle-\\nsiastical literature which act so advantageously upon the mere\\nclay of the Russian serf, seem to hang like lead upon the\\nethereal spirit of the Greek. Never, in any part of the world,\\nhave I seen religious performances so painful to witness as those\\nof the Greeks. The horror, however, with which one shudders\\nat their worship, is attributable, in some measure, to the mere\\neffect of costume. In all the Ottoman dominions, and very fre-\\nquently too, in the Kingdom of Otho, the Greeks wear turbans,\\nor other head-dresses, and shave their heads, leaving only a\\nrat s-tail at the crown of the head they of course keep them-\\nselves covered within doors, as well as abroad, and never remove\\ntheir head-gear, merely on account of being in a church but\\nwhen the Greek stops to worship at his proper shrine, then, and\\nthen only, he always uncovers and as you see him thus with\\nshaven skull, and savage tail pending from his crown, kissing a\\nthing of wood and glass, and cringing with base prostrations,\\nand apparent terror, before a miserable picture, you see super-\\nstition in a shape, which, outwardly at least, looks sadly abject,\\nand repulsive.\\n*fc\\nThe fasts, too, of the Greek Church, produce an ill effect upon\\nthe character of the people, for they are carried to such an ex-\\ntent, as to bring about a bona fide mortification of the flesh the\\nfebrile irritation of the frame operating in conjunction with the\\ndepression of spirits occasioned by abstinence, will so far answer", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "44\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. v.\\nthe objects of the rite, as to engender some religious excitement,\\nbut this is of a morbid and gloomy character, and it seems to\\nbe certain, that along with the increase of sanctity, there comes\\na fiercer desire for the perpetration of dark crimes. The num-\\nber of murders committed during Lent is greater, I am told,\\nthan at any other time of the year. A man under the influence\\nof a bean dietary (for this is the principal food of the Greeks\\nduring their fasts), will be in an apt humor for enriching the\\nshrine of his Saint, and passing a knife through his next door\\nneighbor. The moneys deposited upon the shrines are appro-\\npriated by priests the priests are married men, and have fami-\\nlies to provide for they take the good with the bad, and con-\\ntinue to recommend fasts.\\nThen, too, the Greek Church enjoins her followers to keep\\nholy such a vast number of Saints days, as practically to\\nshorten the lives of the people very materially. I believe that\\none third out of the number of days in the year are 66 kept holy,\\nor rather, kept stupid, in honor of the Saints no great portion\\nof the time thus set apart is spent in religious exercises,\\nand the people don t betake themselves to any animating pas-\\ntimes, which might serve to strengthen the frame, or invigorate\\nthe mind, or exalt the taste. On the contrary, the Saints days\\nof the Greeks in Smyrna, are passed in the same manner as the\\nSabbaths of well-behaved Protestant housemaids in London\\nthat is to say, in a steady and serious contemplation of street\\nscenery. The men perform this duty at the doors of their\\nhouses, the women at the windows, which the custom of Greek\\ntowns has so decidedly appropriated to them as the proper station\\nof their sex, that a man would be looked upon as utterly effemi-\\nnate if he ventured to choose that situation for the keeping of\\nthe Saints days. I was present one day at a treaty for the hire\\nof some apartments at Smyrna, which was carried on between\\nCarrigaholt, and the Greek woman to whom the rooms belonged.\\nCarrigaholt objected that the windows commanded no view of\\nthe street: immediately the brow of the majestic matron was\\nclouded, and with all the scorn of a Spartan mother, she coolly\\nasked Carrigaholt and said, Art thou a tender damsel that\\nthou wouldest sit, and gaze from windows The man whom", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "CHAP. V.]\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA.\\n45\\nshe addressed, however, had not gone to Greece with any\\nintention of placing himself under the laws of Lycurgus, and\\nwas not to be diverted from his views by a Spartan rebuke, so\\nhe took care to find himself windows after his own heart, and\\nthere, I believe, for many a month, he kept the Saints days,\\nand all the days intervening, after the fashion of Grecian\\nwomen.\\nOh let me be charitable to all who write, and to all who\\nlecture, and to all who preach, since even I, a lay-man not\\nforced to write at all, can hardly avoid chiming in with some\\ntuneful cant I have had the heart to talk about the pernicious\\neffects of the Greek holidays, to which I owe some of my most\\nbeautiful visions I will let the words stand, as an humbling\\nproof that I am subject to that immutable law which compels a\\nman with a pen in his hand to be uttering every now and then\\nsome sentiment not his own. It seems as though the power of\\nexpressing regrets and desires by written symbols were coupled\\nwith a condition that the writer should from time to time express\\nthe regrets and desires of other people as though, like a French\\npeasant under the old regime, one were bound to perform a cer-\\ntain amount of work upon the public highways. I rebel as\\nstoutly as I can against this horrible corvee I try not to deceive\\nyou I try to set down the thoughts which are fresh within me,\\nand not to pretend any wishes, or griefs, which I do not really\\nfeel, but no sooner do I cease from watchfulness in this regard,\\nthan my right hand is, as it were, seized by some false demon,\\nand even now, you see, I have been forced to put down such\\nwords and sentences as I ought to have written if really and\\ntruly I had wished to disturb the Saints days of the beautiful\\nSmyrniotes\\nWhich, Heaven forbid for as you move through the narrow\\nstreets of the city, at these times of festival, the transom-shaped\\nwindows suspended over your head, on either side, are filled\\nwith the beautiful descendants of the old Ionian race all (even\\nyonder Empress that sits throned at the window of that humblest\\nmud cottage) are attired with seeming magnificence; their\\nclassic heads are crowned with scarlet, and loaded with jewels,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "46\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. v.\\nor coins of gold the whole wealth of the wearers their\\nfeatures are touched with a savage pencil, which hardens the\\noutline of eyes and eye-brows and lends an unnatural fire to\\nthe stern, grave looks, with which they pierce your brain.\\nEndure their fiery eyes as best you may, and ride on slowly\\nand reverently, for facing you from the side of the transom, that\\nlooks long-wise through the street, you see the one glorious\\nshape transcendant in its beauty you see the massive braid of\\nhair as it catches a touch of light on its jetty surface and the\\nbroad, calm, angry brow the large black eyes, deep set, and\\nself- relying like the eyes of a conqueror, with their rich shadows\\nof thought lying darkly around them, you see the thin fiery\\nnostril, and the bold line of the chin and throat disclosing all\\nthe fierceness, and all the pride, passion, and power, that can\\nlive along with the rare womanly beauty of those sweetly\\nturned lips. But then there is a terrible stillness in this breath-\\ning image it seems like the stillness of a savage that sits in-\\ntent, and brooding day by day, upon some one fearful scheme\\nof vengeance, but yet more like it seems to the stillness of an\\nImmortal, whose will must be known, and obeyed without sign\\nor speech. Bow down Bow down, and adore the young\\nPersephone, transcendant Queen of Shades\\nA Greek woman wears her whole fortune upon her person, in the shape\\nof jewels, or gold coins I believe that this mode of investment is adopted\\nin great measure for safety s sake. It has the advantage of enabling a suitor\\nto reckon, as well as to admire the objects of his affection.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VI.]\\nGREEK MARINERS.\\n47\\nCHAPTER VI.\\nGreek Mariners.\\nI sailed from Smyrna in the Amphitrite, a Greek brigantine,\\ni which was confidently said to be bound for the coast of Syria,\\nbut I knew that this announcement was not to be relied upon\\nwith positive certainty, for the Greek mariners are practically\\nfree from the stringency of ship s papers, and where they will,\\nthere they go. However, I had the whole of the cabin for my-\\nself, and my attendant, Mysseri, subject only to the society of\\nthe Captain at the hour of dinner being at ease in this respect,\\nbeing furnished too with plenty of books, and finding an unfail-\\ning source of interest in the thorough Greekness of my Captain\\nand my crew, I felt less anxious than most people would have\\nbeen about the probable length of the cruise I knew enough of\\nGreek navigation to be sure that our vessel would cling to Earth\\nlike a child to its mother s knee, and that I should touch at many\\nan isle before I set foot upon the Syrian coast but I had no\\ninvidious preference for Europe, Asia, or Africa, and I felt that\\nI could defy the winds to blow me upon a coast that was blank,\\nand void of interest. My patience was extremely useful to me,\\nfor the cruise altogether endured some forty days, and that in\\nthe midst of winter.\\nAccording to me, the most interesting of all the Greeks (male\\nGreeks) are the mariners, because their pursuits and their so-\\ncial condition are so nearly the same as those of their glorious\\nancestors you will say, that the occupation of commerce must\\nhave smoothed down the salience of their minds, and this would\\nbe so perhaps, if their mercantile affairs were conducted accord-\\ning to the fixed business-like routine of Europeans but the\\nventures of the Greeks are surrounded by such a multitude of\\nimagined dangers, and (from the absence of regular marts in", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "48\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VI.\\nwhich the true value of merchandize can be ascertained) are\\nso entirely speculative, and besides, are conducted in a manner\\nso wholly determined upon by the wayward fancies and wishes\\nof the crew, that they belong to Enterprise, rather than to in-\\ndustry, and are very far indeed from tending to deaden any\\nfreshness of character.\\nThe vessels in which war and piracy were carried on during\\nthe years of the Greek Revolution, became merchantmen at the\\nend of the war but the tactics of the Greeks, as naval war-\\nriors, were so exceedingly cautious, and their habits, as commer-\\ncial mariners, are so wild, that the change has been more slight\\nthan you might imagine. The first care of Greeks (Greek\\nRayahs) when they undertake a shipping enterprise, is to pro-\\ncure for their vessel the protection of some European Power\\nthis is easily managed by a little intriguing with the Dragoman\\nof one of the Embassies at Constantinople, and the craft soon\\nglories in the ensign of Russia, or the dazzling Tricolor, or the\\nUnion Jack thus, to the great delight of her crew, she enters\\nupon the ocean world with a flaring lie at her peak, but the\\nappearance of the vessel does no discredit to the borrowed flag\\nshe is frailer, perhaps, than the rest of her sex, but she does not\\nlook the worse for this in harbor she is gracefully built, and\\nsmartly rigged she always carries guns, and in short, gives\\ngood promise of mischief and speed.\\nThe privileges attached to the vessel and her crew, by virtue\\nof the borrowed flag, are so great as to imply a degree of liberty,\\ngreater than that which is enjoyed by individuals in our more\\nstrictly civilized countries, so that there is no pretence for say-\\ning that the development of the true character belonging to\\nGreek mariners is prevented by the dominion of the Ottomans\\nthey are free, too, from the power of the great capitalist whose\\nimperial sway, is more withering than despotism itself, to the\\nenterprises of humble adventurers. The capital employed is\\nsupplied by those whose labor is to render it productive the\\ncrew receive no wages, but have all a share in the venture, and\\nin general, I believe, they are the owners of the whole freight\\nthey choose a Captain to whom they entrust just power enough\\nto keep the vessel on her course in fine weather, but not quite", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VI.]\\nGREEK MARINERS.\\n49\\nenough for a gale of wind they also elect a cook and a mate\\nthe cook whom we had on board was particularly careful about\\nthe ship s reckoning, and when, under the influence of the keen\\nsea breeze, we grew fondly expectant of an instant dinner, the\\ngreat author of pilafs would be standing on deck with an ancient\\nquadrant in his hands, calmly affecting to take an observation.\\nBut then to make up for this, the Captain would be exercising a\\ncontrolling influence over the soup, so that all, in the end, went\\nwell. Our mate was a Hydriot, a native of that island rock\\nwhich grows nothing but mariners and mariners wives. His\\ncharacter seemed to be exactly that which is generally attribut-\\ned to the Hydriot race he was fierce, and gloomy, and lonely\\nin his ways. One of his principal duties seemed to be that of\\nacting as counter-captain, or leader of the opposition, denounc-\\ning, the first symptoms of tyranny, and protecting even the\\ncabin-boy from oppression. Besides this, when things went\\nsmoothly, he would begin to prognosticate evil, in order that his\\nmore light-hearted comrades might not be puffed up with the\\nseeming good fortune of the moment.\\nIt seemed to me that the personal freedom of these sailors,\\nwho own no superiors except those of their own choice, is as like\\nas may be to that of their sea-faring ancestors. And even in\\ntheir mode of navigation they have admitted no such an entire\\nchange as you would suppose probable it is true that they\\nhave so far availed themselves of modern discoveries as to look\\nto the compass instead of the stars, and that they have supersed-\\ned the immortal Gods of their forefathers by St. Nicholas in\\nhis glass case,* but they are not yet so confident either in their\\nneedle or their Saint, as to love an open sea, and they still hug\\ntheir shores as fondly as the Argonauts of old. Indeed, they\\nhave a most unsailorlike love for the land, and I really believe\\nthat in a gale of wind they would rather have a rock-bound\\ncoast on their lee, than no coast at all. According to the\\nnotions of an English seaman, this kind of navigation would\\nSt. Nicholas is the great patron of Greek sailors a small picture of\\nhim enclosed in a glass case is hung up like a barometer at one end of the\\ncabin.\\n5", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "50\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VI.\\nsoon bring the vessel on which it might be practised, to an evil\\nend. The Greek, however, is unaccountably successful in\\nescaping the consequences of being jammed in, as it is\\ncalled, upon a lee shore he is favored, I suppose, by the\\nnature of the coast along which he sails, especially those of the\\nmany islands through which he threads his way in the iEgean,\\nfor there is generally, I think, deep water home to the very\\ncliffs, and besides there are innumerable coves in which the\\ndexterous sailor, who knows and loves the land so well, will\\ncontrive to find a shelter.\\nThese seamen, like their forefathers, rely upon no winds\\nunless they are right a-stern, or on the quarter they rarely go\\non a wind if it blows at all fresh, and if the adverse breeze ap-\\nproaches to a gale, they at once fumigate St. Nicholas, and put\\nup the helm. The consequence, of course, is, that under the\\never-varying winds of the iEgean they are blown about in the\\nmost whimsical manner. I used to think that Ulysses, with his\\nten years voyage, had taken his time in making Ithaca, but my\\nexperience in Greek navigation soon made me understand that\\nhe had, in point of fact, a pretty good average passage.\\nSuch are now the mariners of the iEgean free, equal\\namongst themselves, navigating the seas of their forefathers\\nwith the same heroic, and yet child-like spirit of venture, the\\nsame half-trustful reliance upon heavenly aid, they are the\\nliveliest images of true old Greeks that time and the new\\nreligions have spared to us.\\nWith one exception, our crew were a solemn company,\\nand yet, sometimes, when all things went well, they would relax\\ntheir austerity, and show a disposition to fun, or rather to quiet\\nhumor when this happened, they invariably had recourse to\\none of their number, who went by the name of Admiral\\nNicolou he was an amusing fellow, the poorest, I believe,\\nand the least thoughtful of the crew, but full of rich humor\\nhis oft-told story of the events by which he had gained the\\nsobriquet of Admiral, never failed to delight his hearers, and\\nwhen he was desired to repeat it for my benefit, the rest of the\\nHanmer.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VI.]\\nGREEK MARINERS.\\n51\\ncrew crowded round with as much interest as if they were\\nlistening to the tale for the first time. A number of Greek\\nbrigs and brigantines were at anchor in the bay of Beyrout a\\nfestival of some kind, particularly attractive to the sailors, was\\ngoing on in the town, and whether with or without leave I know\\nnot, but the crews of all the craft, except that of Nicolou, had\\ngone ashore on board his vessel, however, which carried dol-\\nlars, there was, it would seem, a more careful, or more influen-\\ntial Captain, who was able to enforce his determination, that one\\nman, at least, should be left on board. Nicolou s good nature\\nwas with him so powerful an impulse, that he could not resist\\nthe delight of volunteering to stay with the vessel, whilst his\\ncomrades went ashore his proposal was accepted, and the\\ncrew and Captain soon left him alone on the deck of his vessel..\\nThe sailors, gathering together from their several ships, were\\namusing themselves in the town, when suddenly there came\\ndown from betwixt the mountains, one of those sudden hurricanes\\nwhich sometimes occur in southern climes Nicolou s vessel,\\ntogether with four of the craft which had been left unmanned,\\nbroke from her moorings, and all five of the vessels were car-\\nried out seaward the town is on a salient point at the southern\\nside of the Bay, so that the Admiral was close under the\\neyes of the inhabitants, and the shore-gone sailors, when he gal-\\nlantly drifted out at the head of his little fleet if Nicolou\\ncould not entirely control the manoeuvres of the Squadron,\\nthere was at least no human power to divide his authority, and\\nthus it was that he took rank as Admiral. Nicolou cut his\\ncable, and thus for the time saved his vessel for the rest of the\\nfleet, under his command, were quickly wrecked, whilst the\\nAdmiral got away clear to the open sea. The violence of the\\nsquall soon passed off, but Nicolou felt that his chance of one\\nday resigning his high duties as an admiral for the enjoyments\\nof private life on the steadfast shore, mainly depended upon his\\nsuccess in working the brig with his own hands, so after calling\\non his namesake, the saint (not for the first time, I take it), he\\ngot up some canvass, and took the helm he became equal, he\\ntold us, to a score of Nicolous, and the vessel, as he said, was\\nmanned with his terrors. For two days, it seems, he cruised", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "52\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VI.\\nat large, but at last, either by his seamanship, or by the natural\\ninstinct of the Greek mariners for finding land, he brought his\\ncraft close to an unknown shore, which promised well for his\\npurpose of running in the vessel, and he was preparing to give\\nher a good berth on the beach, when he saw a gang of ferocious\\nlooking fellows coming down to the point for which he was\\nmaking. Poor Nicolou was a perfectly unlettered and untu-\\ntored genius, and for that reason, perhaps, a keen listener to\\ntales of terror his mind had been impressed with some horrible\\nlegend of cannibalism, and he now did not doubt for a moment\\nthat the men awaiting him on the beach were the monsters at\\nwhom he had shuddered in the days of his childhood. The\\ncoast on which Nicolou was running his vessel, was somewhere,\\nI fancy, at the foot of the Anzairie mountains, and the fellows\\nwho were preparing to give him a reception were probably very\\nrough specimens of humanity it is likely enough that they\\nmay have given themselves the trouble of putting the Admi-\\nral to death, for the purpose of simplifying their claim to the\\nvessel, and preventing litigation, but the notion of their cannibal-\\nism was of course utterly unfounded Nicolou s terror had,\\nhowever, so graven the idea on his mind, that he could never\\nafterwards dismiss it. Having once determined the character\\nof his expectant hosts, the Admiral naturally thought that it\\nwould be better to keep their dinner waiting any length of time,\\nthan to attend their feast in the character of a roasted Greek, so\\nhe put about his vessel, and tempted the deep once more. After\\na farther cruise the lonely commander ran his vessel upon some\\nrocks at another part of the coast, where she was lost with all\\nher treasure, and Nicolou was but too glad to scramble ashore,\\nthough without one dollar in his girdle. These adventures seem\\nflat enough as I repeat them, but the hero expressed his terrors\\nby such odd terms of speech, and such strangely humorous ges-\\ntures, that the story came from his lips with an unfailing zest, so\\nthat the crew who had heard the tale so often, could still enjoy\\nto their hearts the rich fright of the Admiral, and still shuddered\\nwith unabated horror when he came to the loss of the dollars.\\nThe power of listening to long stories (for which by the bye I\\nam giving you large credit) is common I fancy to most sailors,", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VI.]\\nGREEK MARINERS.\\n53\\nand the Greeks have it to a great degree, for they can be per-\\nfectly patient under a narrative of two or three hours duration.\\nThese long stories are mostly founded upon Oriental topics, and\\nin one of them I recognized with some alterations an old friend\\nof the Arabian Nights; I inquired as. to the source from\\nwhich the story had been derived, and the crew all agreed that\\nit had been handed down unwritten from Greek to Greek their\\naccount of the matter does not, perhaps, go very far towards\\nshowing the real origin of the tale, but when I afterwards took\\nup the Arabian Nights, I became strongly impressed with a\\nnotion that they must have sprung from the brain of a Greek.\\nIt seems to me that these stories, whilst they disclose a complete\\nand habitual knowledge of things Asiatic, have about them so\\nmuch of freshness and life, so much of the stirring and volatile\\nEuropean character, that they cannot have owed their concep-\\ntion to a mere Oriental, who, for creative purposes, is a thing\\ndead and dry a mental mummy that may have been a live\\nKing just after the flood, but has since lain balmecl in spice.\\nAt the time of the Caliphat the Greek race was familiar enough\\nto Bagdad they were the merchants, the pedlars, the barbers,\\nand intriguers-general of South-western Asia, and therefore the\\nOriental materials with which the Arabian tales are wrought,\\nmust have been completely at the command of the inventive\\npeople to whom I would attribute their origin.\\nWe were nearing the isle of Cyprus, when there arose half a\\ngale of wind, with a heavy, chopping sea my Greek seamen\\nconsidered tjiat the weather amounted not to a half, but to an\\nintegral gale of wind at the very least, so they put up the helm,\\nand scudded for twenty hours when we n eared the main land\\nof Anadoli, the gale ceased, and a favorable breeze sprang up,\\nwhich brought us off Cyprus once more. Afterwards the wind\\nchanged again, but we were still able to lay our course by sail-\\ning close-hauled.\\nWe were, at length, in such a position, that by holding on our\\ncourse for about half an hour, we should get under the lee of\\nthe island, and find ourselves in smooth water, but the wind had\\nbeen gradually freshening it now blew hard, and there was a\\nheavy sea running.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "54\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VI.\\nAs the grounds for alarm arose, the crew gathered together in\\none close group they stood pale and grim under their hooded\\ncapotes like monks awaiting a massacre, anxiously looking by\\nturns along the pathway of the storm, and then upon each other,\\nand then upon the eye of the Captain who stood by the helms-\\nman. Presently the Hydriot came aft, more moody than ever,\\nthe bearer of fierce remonstrance against the continuing of\\nthe struggle he received a resolute answer, and still we held\\nour course. Soon there came a heavy sea, that caught the bow\\nof the brigantine as she lay jammed in betwixt the waves she\\nbowed her head low under the waters, and shuddered through\\nall her timbers then gallantly stood up again over the striving\\nsea, with bowsprit entire. But where were the crew It was\\na crew no longer, but rather a gathering of Greek citizens\\nthe shout of the seaman was changed for the murmuring of the\\npeople the spirit of the old Demos was alive. The men came\\naft in a body, and loudly asked that the vessel should be put\\nabout, and that the storm be no longer tempted. Now, then, for\\nspeeches the Captain, his eyes flashing fire, his frame all\\nquivering with emotion wielding his every limb, like another,\\nand a louder voice, pours forth the eloquent torrent of his\\nthreats, and his reasons, his commands, and his prayers he\\npromises he vows he swears that there is safety in holding\\non safety, if Greeks will he brave The men hear, and are\\nmoved, but the gale rouses itself once more, and again the\\nraging sea comes trampling over the timbers that are the life of\\nall. The fierce Hydriot advances one step more near to the\\nCaptain, and the angry growl of the people goes floating down\\nthe wind, hut they listen they waver once more, and once\\nmore resolve, then waver again, thus doubtfully hanging be-\\ntween the terrors of the storm, and the persuasion of glorious\\nspeech, as though it were the Athenian that talked, and Philip\\nof Macedon that thundered on the weather bow.\\nBrave thought winged on Grecian words gained their natural\\nmastery over Terror the brigantine held on her course, and\\nreached smooth water at last. I landed at Limesol, the west-\\nernmost port of Cyprus, leaving the vessel to sail for Larnecca,\\nwhere she was to remain for some days.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VII.]\\nCYPRUS.\\n55\\nCHAPTER VII.\\nCyprus.\\nThere was a Greek at Limesol, who hoisted his flag as an Eng-\\nlish Vice-Consul, and he insisted upon my accepting his hospi-\\ntality with some difficulty, and chiefly by assuring him that I\\ncould not delay my departure beyond an early hour in the after-\\nnoon, I induced him to allow my dining with his family, instead\\nof banqueting all alone with the representative of my sovereign,\\nin consular state and dignity the lady of the house, it seemed,\\nhad never sat at table with an European she was very shy\\nabout the matter, and tried hard to get out of the scrape, but\\nthe husband, I fancy, reminded her, that she was theoretically\\nan English-woman by virtue of the flag which waved over her\\nroof, and that she was bound to show her nationality by sitting\\nat meat with me finding herself inexorably condemned to bear\\nwith the dreaded gaze of European eyes, she tried to save her\\ninnocent children from the hard fate which awaited herself, but\\nI obtained that all of them (and I think there were four or five)\\nshould sit at the table. You will meet with abundance of\\nstately receptions, and of generous hospitality, too, in the East,\\nbut rarely, very rarely in those regions (or even, so far as I\\nknow, in any part of southern Europe), does one gain an oppor-\\ntunity of seeing the familiar and indoor life of the people.\\nThis family party of the good consul s (or rather of mine,\\nfor I originated the idea, though he furnished the materials)\\nwent off very well the mamma was shy at first, but she veiled\\nthe awkwardness which she felt by affecting to scold her chil-\\ndren, who had all of them, I think, immortal names names,\\ntoo, which they owed to tradition, and certainly not to any clas-\\nsical enthusiasm of their parents every instant I was delighted\\nby some such phrases as these Themistocles, my love, don t", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "50\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VII.\\nfight/ Alcibiades, can t you sit still? Socrates, put\\ndown the cup. Oh, fie Aspasia, don t, Oh don t be\\nnaughty It is true that the names were pronounced, Soerah-\\ntie, Aspahsie that is, according to accent, and not according\\nto quantity, but I suppose it is scarcely now to be doubted that\\nthey were so sounded in ancient times.\\nTo me it seems, that of all the lands I know (you will see in\\na minute how I connect this piece of prose with the Isle of Cy-\\nprus), there is none in which mere wealth mere unaided\\nwealth, is held half so cheaply none in which a poor devil of\\na millionaire without birth, or ability, occupies so humble a\\nplace as in England. My Greek host and I were sitting to-\\ngether, I think upon the roof of the house (for that is the loung-\\ning place in Eastern climes), when the former assumed a seri-\\nous air, and intimated a wish to converse upon the subject of\\nthe British Constitution, with which he assured me that he was\\nthoroughly acquainted he presently,, however, informed me\\nthat there was one anomalous circumstance attendant upon the\\npractical working of our political system which he had never\\nbeen able to hear explained in a manner satisfactory to him-\\nself. From the fact of his having found a difficulty in his sub-\\nject, I began to think that my host might really know rather\\nmore of it than his announcement of a thorough knowledge had\\nled me to expect I felt interested at being about to hear from\\nthe lips of an intelligent Greek, quite remote from the influence\\nof European opinions, what might seem to him the most aston-\\nishing and incomprehensible of all those results which have\\nfollowed from the action of our political institutions. The ano-\\nmaly the only anomaly which had been detected by the vice-\\nconsular wisdom, consisted in the fact, that Rothschild (the late\\nmoney-monger) had never been the Prime Minister of England\\nI gravely tried to throw some light upon the mysterious causes\\nwhich had kept the worthy Israelite out of the Cabinet, but I\\nthink I could see that my explanation was not satisfactory. Go\\nand argue with the flies of summer, that there is a* Power divine,\\nyet greater than the Sun in the heavens, but never dare hope to\\nconvince the people of the South that there is any other God\\nthan Gold.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VII.]\\nCYPRUS.\\n57\\nMy intended journey was to the site of the Paphian temple.\\nI take no antiquarian interest in ruins, and care little about\\nthem, unless they are either striking in themselves, or else\\nserve to mark some spot on which my fancy loves to dwell. I\\nknew that the ruins of Paphos were scarcely, if at all, discerni-\\nble, but there was a will, and a longing, more imperious than\\nmere curiosity, that drove me thither.\\nFor this, just then, was my Pagan soul s desire that (not\\nforfeiting my Christian s inheritance for the life to come), it\\nwere yet given me to live through this world to live a favored\\nmortal under the old Olympian dispensation to speak out my\\nresolves to the listening Jove, and hear him answer with\\napproving thunder to be blessed with divine counsels from the\\nlips of Pallas Athenie to believe aye, only to believe to\\nbelieve for one rapturous moment that in the gloomy depths of\\nthe grove, by the mountain s side, there were some leafy path-\\nway that crisped beneath the glowing sandal of Aphrodetie\\nAphrodetie, not coldly disdainful of even a mortal s love And\\nthis vain, heathenish longing of mine was father to the thought\\nof visiting the scene of the ancient worship.\\nThe isle is beautiful from the edge of the rich, flowery fields\\non which I trod, to the midway sides of the snowy Olympus, the\\nground could only here and there show an abrupt crag, or a\\nhigh, straggling ridge, that up-shouldered itself from out of the\\nwilderness of myrtles, and of the thousand bright-leaved shrubs\\nthat twined their arms together in lovesome tangles. The air\\nthat came to my lips was warm, and fragrant as the a mbrosial\\nbreath of the goddess, infecting me not (of course) with a\\nfaith in the old religion of the isle, but with a sense, and appre-\\nhension of its mystic power a power that was still to be obeyed\\nobeyed by ?ne, for why otherwise did I toil on with sorry\\nhorses to where, for HER, the hundred altars glowed with\\nArabian incense, and breathed with the fragrance of garlands\\never fresh\\nubi templum illi, centumque Sabaeo\\nThure calent arae, sertisque recentibus halant.\\n^Eneid i. 415,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "58\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. vii.\\nI passed a sadly disenchanting night in the cabin of a Greek\\npriest not a priest of the Goddess, but of the Greek church\\nthere was but one humble room, or rather shed, for man, and\\npriest, and beast. The next morning I reached BafFa (Paphos),\\nwhich is not far distant from the site of the temple there was\\na Greek husbandman there who (not for emolument, but for the\\nsake of the protection and dignity which it afforded) had got\\nleave from the man at Lime sol to hoist his flag as a sort of\\nDeputy-provisionary-sub-vice-pro-acting Pro-consul of the Brit-\\nish Sovereign the poor fellow instantly changed his Greek\\nhead-gear for the cap of consular dignity, and insisted upon\\naccompanying me to the ruins I would not have stood this, if\\nI could have felt the faintest gleam of my yesterday s pagan\\npiety, but I had ceased to dream, and had nothing to dread from\\nany new disenchanters.\\nThe ruins (the fragments of one or two prostrate pillars) stand\\nupon a promontory, bare, and unmystified by the gloom of sur-\\nrounding groves my Greek friend in his consular-cap stood by,\\nrespectfully waiting to see what turn my madness would take,\\nnow that I had come at last into the presence of the old stones.\\n]f you have no taste for research, and can t affect to look for\\ninscriptions, there is some awkwardness in coming to the end of\\na merely sentimental pilgrimage, when the feeling, which im-\\npelled you, has gone you have nothing to do but to laugh the\\nthing off as well as you can, and by the by, it is not a bad plan\\nto turn the conversation (or rather allow the natives to turn it)\\ntowards the subject of hidden treasures this is a topic on which\\nthey will always speak with eagerness, and if they can fancy\\nthat you, too, take an interest in such matters, they will not\\nonly think you perfectly sane, but will begin to give you credit\\nfor some more than human powers of forcing the obscure earth\\nto show you its hoards of gold.\\nWhen we returned to Baffa, the Pro-consul seized a club,\\nwith the quietly determined air of a brave man, resolved to do\\nsome deed of note he went into the yard adjoining his cottage,\\nwhere there were some thin, thoughtful, canting cocks, and\\nserious low-church-looking hens, respectfully listening, and", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VII.]\\nCYPRUS.\\n59\\nchickens of tender years so well brought up as scarcely to\\nbetray in their conduct the careless levity of youth. The Pro-\\nconsul stood for a moment quite calm collecting his strength;\\nthen suddenly he rushed into the midst of the congregation, and\\nbegan to deal death and destruction on all sides he spared\\nneither sex nor age the dead and dying were immediately\\nremoved from the field of slaughter, and in less than an hour,\\nI think, they were brought to the table, deeply buried in mounds\\nof snowy rice.\\nMy host was in all respects a fine, generous fellow I could\\nnot bear the idea of impoverishing him by my visit, and I con-\\nsulted my faithful Mysseri, who not only assured me that I\\nmight safely offer money to the Pro-consul, but recommended\\nthat I should give no more to him than to the others, mean-\\ning any other peasant I felt, however, that there was some-\\nthing about the man, besides the flag and the cap, which made\\nme shrink from offering coin, and as I mounted my horse on\\ndeparting, I gave him the only thing fit for a present which I\\nhappened to have with me, a rather handsome clasp-dagger,\\nwhich I had brought from Vienna the poor fellow was ineffa-\\nbly grateful, and I had some difficulty in tearing myself from\\nout of the reach of his thanks at last I gave him what I sup-\\nposed to be the last farewell, and rode on, but I had not gained\\nmore than about a hundred yards, when my host came bounding\\nand shouting after me, with a goat s milk cheese in his hand,\\nwhich he implored me to accept. In old times the shepherd of\\nTheocritus, or (to speak less dishonestly) the shepherd of the\\nPoetse Grseci, sung his best song; I, in this latter age, pre-\\nsented my best dagger, and both of us received the same rustic\\nreward.\\nIt had been known that I should return to Limesol, and when\\nI arrived there I found that a noble old Greek had been hospita-\\nbly plotting to have me for his guest I willingly accepted his\\noffer. The day of my arrival happened to be the birth-day of\\nmy host, and in consequence of this there was a constant influx\\nof visitors who came to offer their congratulations a few of\\nthese were men, but most of them were young, graceful girls", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "60\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VII.\\nalmost all of them went through the ceremony with the utmost\\nprecision and formality each in succession spoke her blessing,\\nin the tone of a person repeating a set formula then deferen-\\ntially accepted the invitation to sit partook of the proffered\\nsweetmeats, and the cold, glittering water remained for a few\\nminutes either in silence, or engaged in very thin conversation\\nthen arose, delivered a second benediction followed by an elabo-\\nrate farewell, and departed.\\nThe bewitching power attributed at this day to the women of\\nCyprus, is curious in connection with the worship of the sweet\\ngoddess who called their isle her own the Cypriote is not, I\\nthink, nearly so beautiful in face as the Ionian queens of Izmir,\\nbut she is tall, and slightly formed there is a high-souled mean-\\ning and expression a seeming consciousness of gentle empire\\nthat speaks in the wavy lines of the shoulder, and winds itself\\nlike Cytherea s own cestus around the slender waist then the\\nrichly abounding hair (not enviously gathered together under\\nthe head-dress) descends the neck, and passes the waist in sump-\\ntuous braids of all other women with Grecian blood in their\\nveins, the costume is graciously beautiful, but these, the\\nmaidens of Limesol their robes are more gently, more sweetly\\nimagined, and fall like Julia s Cashmere in soft, luxurious folds.\\nThe common voice of the Levant allows that in face the women\\nof Cyprus are less beautiful than their brilliant sisters of Smyrna,\\nand yet, says the Greek, he may trust himself to one and all of\\nthe bright cities of the iEgean, and may yet weigh anchor with\\na heart entire, but that so surely as he ventures upon the\\nenchanted Isle of Cyprus, so surely will he know the rapture, or\\nthe bitterness of Love. The charm, they say, owes its power to\\nthat which the people call the astonishing politics (^oW^) f\\nthe women, meaning, I fancy, their tact, and their witching\\nways the word, however, plainly fails to express one half of\\nthat which the speakers would say I have smiled to hear the\\nGreek, with all his plenteousness of fancy, and all the wealth of\\nhis generous language, yet vainly struggling to describe the\\nineffable spell which the Parisians dispose of in their own smart\\nway, by a summary Je ne scai quoi.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VII.]\\nCYPRUS.\\n61\\nI went to Larnecca, the chief city of the isle, and over the\\nwater at last to Beyrout.\\nThe writer takes leave to suggest that none should attempt to read the\\nfollowing account of the late Lady Hester Stanhope, except those who may\\nalready chance to feel an interest in the personage to whom it relates. The\\nchapter (which has been written and printed for the reasons mentioned in\\nthe preface) is chiefly filled with the detailed conversation, or rather dis-\\ncourse of a highly eccentric gentlewoman.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "62\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\nCHAPTER VIII.\\nLady Hester Stanhope.\\nBeyrotjt on its land side is hemmed in by the Druses, who\\noccupy all the neighbouring highlands.\\nOften enough I saw the ghostly images of the women with\\ntheir exalted horns stalking through the streets, and I saw too, in\\ntravelling, the affrighted groups of the mountaineers as they fled\\nbefore me, under the fear that my party might be a company of\\nIncome-tax commissioners, or a press-gang enforcing the con-\\nscription for Mehemet Ali, but nearly all my knowledge of the\\npeople, except in regard of their mere costume, and outward\\nappearance, is drawn from books, and despatches, to which I\\nhave the honor to refer you.\\nI received hospitable welcome at Beyrout, from the Europeans,\\nas well as from the Syrian Christians, and I soon discovered that\\ntheir standing topic of interest was the Lady Hester Stanhope,\\nwho lived in an old convent on the Lebanon range, at the dis-\\ntance of about a day s journey from the town. The lady s habit\\nof refusing to see Europeans added the charm of mystery to a\\ncharacter, which, even without that aid, was sufficiently distin-\\nguished to command attention.\\nMany years of Lady Hester s early womanhood had been\\npassed with Lady Chatham at Burton Pynsent, and during that\\ninglorious period of the heroine s life, her commanding charac-\\nter, and (as they would have called it, in the language of those\\ndays), her condescending kindness towards my mother s\\nfamily, had increased in them those strong feelings of respect\\nand attachment, which her rank and station alone would have\\neasily won from people of the middle class. You may suppose\\nhow deeply the quiet women in Somersetshire must have been\\ninterested, when they slowly learned by vague and uncertain", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "chap, viii.] LADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n03\\ntidings that the intrepid girl who had been used to break their\\nvicious horses for them, was reigning in sovereignty over the\\nwandering tribes of Western Asia I know that her name was\\nmade almost as familiar to me in my childhood as the name of\\nRobinson Crusoe both were associated with the spirit of adven-\\nture, but whilst the imagined life of the cast-away mariner never\\nfailed to seem glaringly real, the true story of the English-\\nwoman ruling over Arabs always sounded to me like fable. I\\nnever had heard, nor indeed, I believe, had the rest of the world\\never heard anything like a certain account of the Heroine s\\nadventures all I know was, that in one of the drawers which\\nwere the delight of my childhood, along with atta of roses, and\\nfragrant wonders from Hindostan, there were letters carefully\\ntreasured, and trifling presents which I was taught to think val-\\nuable because they had come from the Queen of the Desert, who\\ndwelt in tents, and reigned over wandering Arabs.\\nThe subject, however, died away, and from the ending of my\\nchildhood up to the period of my arrival in the Levant, I had\\nseldom even heard a mentioning of the Lady Hester Stanhope,\\nbut now wherever I went, I was met with the name so familiar\\nin sound, and yet so full of mystery from the vague, fairy-tale\\nsort of idea which it brought to my mind I heard it too con-\\nnected with fresh wonders, for it was said that the woman was\\nnow acknowledged as an inspired being by the people of the\\nMountains, and it was even hinted with horror that she claimed\\nto be more than a prophet.\\nI felt at once that my mother would be sadly sorry to hear\\nthat I had been within a day s ride of her early friend without\\noffering to see her, and I therefore despatched a letter to the\\nRecluse, mentioning the maiden name of my mother (whose\\nmarriage was subsequent to Lady Hester s departure), and say-\\ning that if there existed on the part of her Ladyship any wish to\\nhear of her old Somersetshire acquaintance, I should make a\\npoint of visiting her. My letter was sent by a foot messenger\\nwho was to take an unlimited time for his journey, so that it\\nwas not, I think, until either the third or the fourth day that the\\nanswer arrived. A couple of horsemen covered with mud sud-\\ndenly dashed into the little court of the Locanda, in which I", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "64\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VIII.\\nwas staying, bearing themselves as ostentatiously as though\\nthey were carrying a cartel from the Devil to the Angel\\nMichael one of these (the other being his attendant) was an\\nItalian by birth (though now completely orientalized), who lived\\nin my Lady s establishment as a Doctor nominally, but practi-\\ncally as an upper servant he presented me a very kind and\\nappropriate letter of invitation\\nIt happened that I was rather unwell at this time, so that I\\nnamed a more distant day for my visit than I should otherwise\\nhave done, and after all, I did not start at the time fixed whilst\\nstill remaining at Beyrout I received this letter, which certainly\\nbetrays no symptom of the pretensions to Divine power, which\\nwere popularly attributed to the writer\\nSir, I hope I shall be disappointed in seeing you on Wednesday, for\\nthe late rains have rendered the River Damoor if not dangerous, at least,\\nvery unpleasant to pass for a person who has been lately indisposed, for if\\nthe animal swims, you would be immerged in the waters. The weather\\nwill probably change after the 21st of the moon, and after a couple of days\\nthe roads and the river will be passable, therefore I shall expect you either\\nSaturday or Monday.\\nIt will be a great satisfaction to me to have an opportunity of inquiring\\nafter your mother, who was a sweet, lovely girl when I knew her.\\nBelieve me, Sir,\\nYours sincerely,\\nHester Lucy Stanhope.\\nEarly one morning I started from Beyrout. There are no\\nregularly established relays of horses in Syria, at least not in\\nthe line which I took, and you therefore hire your cattle for the\\nwhole journey, or, at all events, for your journey to some large\\ntown. Under these circumstances you have no occasion for a\\nTatar (whose principal utility consists in his power to compel\\nthe supply of horses). In other respects, the mode of travelling\\nthrough Syria differs very little from that which I have de-\\nscribed as prevailing in Turkey. I hired my horses and mules\\n(for I had some of both) for the whole of the journey from Bey-\\nrout to Jerusalem the owner of the beasts (who had a couple\\nof fellows under him) was the most dignified member of my\\nparty he was, indeed, a magnificent old man, and was called", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n65\\nShereef, or holy/ 5 a title of honor, which, with the privilege\\nof bearing the green turban, he well deserved, not only from the\\nblood of the Prophet which glowed in his veins, but from the\\nwell-known sanctity of his life, and the length of his blessed\\nbeard.\\nMysseri, of course, still travelled with me, but the Arabic was\\nnot one of the seven languages which he spoke so perfectly, and\\nI was, therefore, obliged to hire another interpreter. I had no\\ndifficulty in finding a proper man for the purpose one Deme-\\ntrius, or, as he was always called, Dthemetri, a native of\\nZante, who had been tossed about by fortune in all directions.\\nHe spoke the Arabic very well, and communicated with me in\\nItalian. The man was a very zealous member of the Greek\\nchurch. He had been a tailor. He was as ugly as the devil,\\nhaying a thoroughly Tatar countenance, which expressed the\\nagony of his body or mind, as the case might be, in the most\\nludicrous manner imaginable he embellished the natural cari-\\ncature of his person, by suspending about his neck, and shoul-\\nders, and waist, quantities of little bundles and parcels, which he\\nthought too valuable to be entrusted to the jerking of pack-\\nsaddles. The mule which fell to his lot on this journey, every now\\nand then, forgetting that his rider was a saint, and remembering\\nthat he was a tailor, took a quiet roll upon the ground, and\\nstretched his limbs calmly and lazily, as if he were preparing to\\nhear a long sermon. Dthemetri never got seriously hurt, but\\nthe subversion and dislocation of his bundles made him for the\\nmoment a sad spectacle of ruin, and when he regained his legs,\\nhis wrath with the mule became very amusing. He always\\naddressed the beast in language which implied, that he, as a\\nChristian and saint, had been personally insulted and oppressed\\nby a Mahometan mule. Dthemetri, however, on the whole,\\nproved to be a most able and capital servant I suspected him\\nof now and then leading me out of my way, in order that he\\nmight have an opportunity of visiting the shrine of a saint, and\\non one occasion, as you will see by and by, he was induced,\\nby religious motives, to commit a gross breach of duty but put-\\nting these pious faults out of the question (and they were faults\\nof the right side), he was always faithful and true to me.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "66\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\nI left Saide (the Sidon of ancient times), on my right, and\\nabout an hour, I think, before sunset, began to ascend one of the\\nmany low hills of Lebanon. On the summit before me, was a\\nbroad, grey mass of irregular building, which, from its position,\\nas well as from the gloomy blankness of its walls, gave the idea\\nof a neglected fortress it had, in fact, been a convent of great\\nsize, and like most of the religious houses in this part of the\\nworld, had been made strong enough for opposing an inert re-\\nsistance to any mere casual band of assailants who might be\\nunprovided with regular means of attack this was the dwelling-\\nplace of the Chatham s fiery grand-daughter.\\nThe aspect of the first court which I entered, was such as to\\nkeep one in the idea of having to do with a fortress, rather than\\na mere peaceable dwelling-place. A number of fierce-looking\\nand ill-clad Albanian soldiers were hanging about the place, and\\nstriving to bear the curse of tranquillity, as well as they could\\ntwo or three of them, I think, were smoking their tchibouques, but\\nthe rest of them were lying torpidly upon the flat stones, like the\\nbodies of departed brigands. I rode on to an inner part of the\\nbuilding, and at last, quitting my horses, was conducted through\\na door-way which led me at once from an open court into an\\napartment on the ground floor. As I entered, an oriental\\nfigure in male costume approached me from the farther\\nend of the room with many and profound bows, but the grow-\\ning shades of evening, as well as my near-sightedness, pre-\\nvented me from distinguishing the features of the personage who\\nwas receiving me with this solemn welcome. I had always,\\nhowever, understood that Lady Hester Stanhope wore the male\\nattire, and I began to utter in English the common civilities\\nwhich seemed to be proper on the commencement of a visit by\\nan uninspired mortal to a renowned Prophetess, but the figure\\nwhich I addressed only bowed so much the more, prostrating\\nitself almost to the ground, but speaking to me never a word\\nI feebly strived not to be outdone in gestures of respect, but\\npresently my bowing opponent saw the error under which I was\\nacting, and suddenly convinced me, that at all events I was not\\nyet in the presence of a superhuman being, by declaring that he\\nwas not Miladi, but was, in fact, nothing more or less god-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "CHAP, VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n67\\nlike than the poor Doctor, who had brought his mistress s letters\\nto Beyrout.\\nHer Ladyship,- in the right spirit of hospitality, now sent, and\\ncommanded me to repose for a while after the fatigues of my\\njourney, and to dine.\\nThe cuisine was of the Oriental kind, which is highly arti-\\nficial, and I thought it very good. I rejoiced, too, in the wine\\nof the Lebanon.\\nSoon after the ending of the dinner, the Doctor arrived with\\nMiladi s compliments, and an intimation that she would be happy\\nto receive me if I were so disposed. It had now grown dark,\\nand the rain was falling heavily, so that I got rather wet in fol-\\nlowing my guide through the open courts which I had to pass,\\nin order to reach the presence chamber. At last I was ushered\\ninto a small apartment, which was protected from the draughts of\\nair through the door-way by a folding screen passing this, I\\ncame alongside of a common European sofa, where sat the Lady\\nProphetess. She rose from her seat very formally spoke to\\nme a few words of welcome, pointed to a chair which was\\nplaced exactly opposite to her sofa, at a couple of yards distance,\\nand remained standing up to the full of her majestic height, per-\\nfectly still and motionless, until I had taken my appointed place\\nshe then resumed her seat, not packing herself up according to\\nthe mode of the Orientals, but allowing her feet to rest on the\\nfloor, or the footstool at the moment of seating herself, she\\ncovered her lap with a mass of loose, white drapery, which she\\nheld in her hand. It occurred to me at the time, that she did\\nthis, in order to avoid the awkwardness of sitting in manifest\\ntrowsers under the eye of an European, but I can hardly fancy\\nnow, that with her wilful nature, she would have brooked such\\na compromise as this.\\nThe woman before me had exactly the person of a Prophet-\\ness not, indeed, of the divine Sibyl imagined by Domenichino,\\nso sweetly distracted betwixt Love and Mystery, but of a good,\\nbusiness-like, practical Prophetess, long used to the exercise of\\nher sacred calling. I have been told by those who knew Lady\\nHester Stanhope in her youth, that any notion of a resemblance 1\\nbetwixt her, and the great Chatham, must have been fanciful,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "68\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\nbut at the time of my seeing her, the large commanding features\\nof the gaunt woman, then sixty years old or more, certainly\\nreminded me of the Statesman that lay dying* in the House of\\nLords, according to Copley s picture her face was of the most\\nastonishing whiteness ;f she wore a very large turban, which\\nseemed to be of pale cashmere shawls, so disposed as to conceal\\nthe hair her dress, from the chin down to the point at which it\\nwas concealed by the drapery which she held over her lap, was\\na mass of white linen loosely folding an ecclesiastical sort of\\naffair more like a surplice than any of those blessed creations\\nwhich our souls love under the names of dress/ 5 and frock,\\nand boddice, and collar, and habit-shirt, and sweet\\nu chemisette.\\nSuch was the outward seeming of the personage that sat\\nbefore me, and indeed she was almost bound by the fame of her\\nactual achievements, as well as by her sublime pretensions, to\\nlook a little differently from the rest of woman-kind. There\\nhad been something of grandeur in her career after the death\\nof Lady Chatham, which happened in 1803, she lived under the\\nroof of her uncle, the second Pitt, and when he resumed the\\nGovernment in 1804, she became the dispenser of much patron-\\nage, and sole Secretary of State, for the department of Treasury\\nbanquets. Not having seen the Lady until late in her life,\\nwhen she was fired with spiritual ambition, I can hardly fancy\\nthat she could have performed her political duties in the saloons\\nof the Minister with much of feminine sweetness and patience\\nI am told, however, that she managed matters very well indeed\\nperhaps it was better for the lofty-minded leader of the House,\\nto have his reception-rooms guarded by this stately creature,\\nthan by a merely clever and managing woman it was fitting\\nthat the wholesome awe with which he filled the minds of the\\ncountry gentlemen, should be aggravated by the presence of his\\nmajestic niece. But the end was approaching the sun of\\nAusterlitz showed the Czar madly sliding his splendid army like\\na weaver s shuttle, from his right hand to his left, under the\\nHistorically 66 fainting f the death did not occur until long afterwards.\\n1 1 am told that in youth she was exceedingly sallow.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n69\\nvery eyes the deep, grey, watchful eyes of Napoleon before\\nnight came, the coalition was a vain thing meet for History,\\nand the heart of its great author was crushed with grief, when\\nthe terrible tidings came to his ears. In the bitterness of his\\ndespair, he cried out to his niece, and bid her Roll up the\\nMap of Europe there was a little more of suffering, and at\\nlast, with his swollen tongue still muttering something for Eng-\\nland, he died by the noblest of all sorrows.\\nLady Hester, meeting the calamity in her own fierce way,\\nseems to have scorned the poor island that had not enough of\\nGod s grace to keep the heaven-sent minister alive. I can\\nhardly tell why it should be, but there is a longing for the East,\\nvery commonly felt by proud-hearted people, when goaded by\\nsorrow. Lady Hester Stanhope obeyed this impulse for some\\ntime, I believe, she was at Constantinople, where her magnifi-\\ncence, and near alliance to the late minister, gained her great\\ninfluence. Afterwards she passed into Syria. The people of\\nthat country, excited by the achievements of Sir Sydney Smith,\\nhad begun to imagine the possibility of their land being occupied\\nby the English, and many of them looked upon Lady Hester as\\na Princess who came to prepare the way for the expected con-\\nquest. I don t know it from her own lips, or indeed from any\\ncertain authority, but I have been told that she began her con-\\nnection with the Bedouins by making a large present of money\\n(\u00c2\u00a3500, it was said, immense in piastres) to the Sheik whose\\nauthority was recognized in that part of the Desert, which lies\\nbetween Damascus and Palmyra. The prestige created by the\\nrumors of her high and undefined rank, as well as of her wealth,\\nand corresponding magnificence, was well sustained by her impe-\\nrious character, and her dauntless bravery. Her influence\\nincreased. I never heard anything satisfactory as to the real\\nextent or duration of her sway, but it seemed that, for a time at\\nleast, she certainly exercised something like sovereignty amongst\\nthe wandering tribes. And now that her earthly kingdom had\\npassed away, she strove for spiritual power, and impiously dared,\\nas it was said, to boast some mystic union with the very God of\\nvery God\\nA couple of black slave girls came at a signal, and supplied", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "70\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\ntheir mistress as well as myself, with lighted tchibouques, and\\ncoffee.\\nThe custom of the East sanctions, and almost commands some\\nmoments of silence whilst you are inhaling the first few breaths\\nof the fragrant pipe the pause was broken, I think, by my\\nLady, who addressed to me some inquiries respecting my mother,\\nand particularly as to her marriage but before I had commu-\\nnicated any great amount of family facts, the spirit of the Pro-\\nphetess kindled within her, and presently (though with all the\\nskill of a woman of the world), she shuffled away the subject of\\npoor dear Somersetshire, and bounded onward into loftier spheres\\nof thought.\\nMy old acquaintance with some of the twelve, enabled me\\nto bear my part (of course a very humble one), in a conversa-\\ntion relative to occult science. Milnes once spread a report, that\\nevery gang of gipsies was found upon inquiry to have come last\\nfrom a place to the westward, and to be about to make the next\\nmove in an eastern direction either therefore they were to be all\\ngathered together towards the rising of the sun, by the mysteri-\\nous finger of Providence, or else they were to revolve round the\\nglobe for ever, and ever, and ever both of these suppositions\\nwere highly gratifying, because they were both marvellous, and\\nthough the story on which they were founded plainly sprung\\nfrom the inventive brain of a poet, no one had ever been so\\nodiously statistical as to attempt a contradiction of it. I now\\nmentioned the story as a report to Lady Hester Stanhope, and\\nasked her if it were true I could not have touched upon any\\nimaginable subject more deeply interesting to my hearer more\\nclosely akin to her habitual train of thinking she immediately\\nthrew off all the restraint belonging to an interview with a\\nstranger and when she had received a few more similar proofs\\nof my aptness for the marvellous, she went so far as to say, that\\nshe would adopt me as her eleve in occult science.\\nFor hours, and hours, this wondrous white woman poured forth\\nher speech, for the most part concerning sacred and profane\\nmysteries but every now and then, she would stay her lofty\\nflight, and swoop down upon the world again whenever this\\nhappened, I was interested in her conversation.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n71\\nShe adverted more than once to the period of her lost sway\\namongst the Arabs, and mentioned some of the circumstances\\nwhich aided her in obtaining influence with the wandering tribes.\\nThe Bedouin, so often engaged in irregular warfare, strains his\\neyes to the horizon in search of a coming enemy just as habitu-\\nally as the sailor keeps his bright look out for a strange sail.\\nIn the absence of telescopes, a far reaching sight is highly valued,\\nand Lady Hester possessed this quality to an extraordinary\\ndegree. She told me that on one occasion, when there was\\ngood reason to expect a hostile attack, great excitement was felt\\nin the camp by the report of a far-seeing Arab, who declared\\nthat he could just distinguish some moving objects upon the very\\nfurthest point within the reach of his eyes Lady Hester was\\nconsulted, and she instantly assured her comrades in arms, that\\nthere were indeed a number of horses within sight, but that they\\nwere without riders the assertion proved to be correct, and\\nfrom that time forth, her superiority over all others in respect of\\nfar sight remained undisputed.\\nLady Hester related to me this other anecdote of her Arab\\nlife it was when the heroic qualities of the Englishwoman\\nwere just beginning to be felt amongst the people of the desert\\nthat she was marching one day along with the forces of the\\ntribe, to which she had allied herself. She perceived that pre-\\nparations for an engagement were going on, and upon her making\\ninquiry as to the cause, the Sheik at first affected mystery and\\nconcealment, but at last confessed that war had been declared\\nagainst his tribe on account of its alliance with the English\\nPrincess, and that they were now unfortunately about to be\\nattacked by a very superior force he made it appear that Lady\\nHester was the sole cause of hostility betwixt his tribe and the\\nimpending enemy, and that his sacred duty of protecting the\\nEnglishwoman whom he had admitted as his guest, was the only\\nobstacle which prevented an amicable arrangement of the dis-\\npute. The Sheik hinted that his tribe was likely to sustain an\\nalmost overwhelming blow, but at the same time declared, that\\nno fear of the consequences, however terrible to him, and his\\nwhole people, should induce him to dream of abandoning his\\nillustrious guest. The Heroine instantly took her part it was", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "72\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VIII.\\nnot for her to be a source of danger to her friends, but rather to\\nher enemies, so she resolved to turn away from the people, and\\ntrust for help to none, save only her haughty self. The Sheiks\\naffected to dissuade her from so rash a course, and fairly told\\nher that although they (having been freed from her presence)\\nwould be able to make good terms for themselves, yet that there\\nwere no means of allaying the hostility felt towards her, and\\nthat the whole face of the desert would be swept by the horse-\\nmen of her enemies so carefully, as to make her escape into\\nother districts almost impossible. The brave woman was not to\\nbe moved by terrors of this kind, and bidding farewell to the\\ntribe which had honored and protected her, she turned her\\nhorse s head, and rode straight away from them, without friend,\\nor follower. Hours had elapsed, and for some time she had\\nbeen alone in the centre of the round horizon, when her quick\\neye perceived some horsemen in the distance. The party came\\nnearer, and nearer soon it was plain that they were making\\ntowards her, and presently some hundreds of Bedouins, fully\\narmed, galloped up to her, ferociously shouting, and apparently\\nintending to take her life at the instant with their pointed spears.\\nHer face at the time was covered with the yashmack according\\nto the Eastern usage, but at the moment when the foremost of\\nthe horsemen had all but reached her with their spears, she stood\\nup in her stirrups withdrew the yashmack that veiled the ter-\\nrors of her countenance waved her arm slowly and disdainfully,\\nand cried out with a loud voice, Avaunt! The horsemen\\nrecoiled from her glance, but not in terror. The threatening\\nyells of the assailants were suddenly changed for loud shouts of\\njoy, and admiration, at the bravery of the stately English woman,\\nand festive gun-shots were fired on all sides around her honored\\nhead. The truth was, that the party belonged to the tribe with\\nwhich she had allied herself, and that the threatened attack, as\\nwell as the pretended apprehension of an engagement, had been\\ncontrived for the mere purpose of testing her courage. The day\\nShe spoke it, I dare say, in English the words would not be the less\\neffective for being spoken in an unknown tongue. Lady Hester, I believe*\\nnever learnt to speak the Arabic with a perfect accent.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "CHAP, VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n73\\nended in a great feast prepared to do honor to the heroine, and\\nfrom that time her power over the minds of the people grew rap-\\nidly. Lady Hester related this story with great spirit, and I\\nrecollect that she put up her yashmack for a moment, in order\\nto give me a better idea of the effect which she produced by\\nsuddenly revealing the awfulness of her countenance.\\nWith respect to her then present mode of life, Lady Hester\\ninformed me, that for her sin, she had subjected herself during\\nmany years to severe penance, and that her self-denial had not\\nbeen without its reward. Vain and false/ 5 said she, is all\\nthe pretended knowledge of the Europeans their Doctors will\\ntell you that the drinking of milk gives yellowness to the com-\\nplexion milk is my only food, and you see if my face be not\\nwhite. Her abstinence from food intellectual, was carried as\\nfar as her physical fasting she never, she said, looked upon a\\nbook nor a newspaper, but trusted alone to the stars for her sub-\\nlime knowledge she usually passed the nights in communing\\nwith these heavenly teachers, and lay at rest during the day-\\ntime. She spoke with great contempt of the frivolity, and be-\\nnighted ignorance of the modern Europeans, and mentioned in\\nproof of this, that they were not only untaught in astrology, but\\nwere unacquainted with the common and every day phenomena\\nproduced by magic art she spoke as if she would make me\\nunderstand that all sorcerous spells were completely at her com-\\nmand, but that the exercise of such powers would be derogatory\\nto her high rank in the heavenly kingdom. She said, that the\\nspell by which the face of an absent person is thrown upon a\\nmirror, was within the reach of the humblest and most con-\\ntemptible magicians, but that the practice of such like arts was\\nunholy, as well as vulgar.\\nWe spoke of the bending twig by which it is said that pre-\\ncious metals may be discovered. In relation to this, the Pro-\\nphetess told me a story rather against herself, and inconsistent\\nwith the notion of her being perfect in her science, but I think\\nthat she mentioned the facts as having happened before the time\\nat which she attained to the great spiritual authority which she\\nnow arrogated she told me that vast treasures were known ta\\nexist in a situation which she mentioned, if I rightly remember*", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "74\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VIII.\\nas being near Suez that Napoleon, profanely brave, thrust his\\narm into the cave, containing the coveted gold, and that instantly\\nhis flesh became palsied, but the youthful hero (for she said he\\nwas great in his generation) was not to be thus daunted he\\nfell back characteristically upon his brazen resources, and\\nordered up his artillery but man could not strive with demons,\\nand Napoleon was foiled. In years after came Ibrahim Pasha,\\nwith heavy guns, and wicked spells to-boot, but the infernal\\nguardians of the treasure were too strong for him. It was after\\nthis that Lady Hester passed by the spot, and she described,\\nwith animated gesture, the force and energy with which the\\ndivining twig had suddenly leaped in her hands she ordered\\nexcavations, and no demons opposed her enterprise the vast\\nchest in which the treasure had been deposited was at length\\ndiscovered, but lo and behold, it was full of pebbles She\\nsaid, however, that the times were approaching, in which the\\nhidden treasures of the earth would become available to those\\nwho had true knowledge.\\nSpeaking of Ibrahim Pasha, Lady Hester said, that he was a\\nbold, bad man, and was possessed of some of those common and\\nwicked magical arts upon which she looked down with so much\\ncontempt she said, for instance, that Ibrahim s life was charmed\\nagainst balls and steel, and that after a battle, he loosened the\\nfolds of his shawl, and shook out the bullets like dust.\\nIt seems that the St. Simonians once made overtures to Lady\\nHester she told me that the Peer Enfantin (the chief of the\\nsect) had sent her a service of plate, but that she had declined\\nto receive it she delivered a prediction as to the probability of\\nthe St. Simonians finding the mystic mother, and this she did\\nin a way which would amuse you unfortunately, I am not at\\nliberty to mention this part of the woman s prophecies why, I\\ncannot tell, but so it is, that she bound me to eternal secrecy.\\nLady Hester told me, that since her residence at Djoun, she\\nhad been attacked by a terrible illness, which rendered her for a\\nlong time perfectly helpless all her attendants fled, and left her\\nto perish. Whilst she lay thus alone, and quite unable to rise,\\nrobbers came, and carried away her property she told me,\\nThe proceedings thus described to me by Lady Hester, as having taken", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n75\\nthat they actually unroofed a great part of the building, and em-\\nployed engines with pulleys for the purpose of hoisting out such\\nof her valuables as were too bulky to pass through doors. It\\nwould seem that, before this catastrophe, Lady Hester had been\\nrich in the possession of Eastern luxuries, for she told me that\\nwhen the chiefs of the Ottoman force took refuge with her after\\nthe fall of Acre, they brought their wives also in great numbers\\nto all of these Lady Hester, as she said, presented magnificent\\ndresses, but her generosity occasioned strife only instead of grati-\\ntude, for every woman who fancied her present less splendid than\\nthat of another, with equal or less pretension, became absolutely\\nfurious all these audacious guests had now been got $id of, but\\nthe Albanian soldiers who had taken refuge with Lady Hester at\\nthe same time, still remained under her protection.\\nIn truth, this half- ruined convent, guarded by the proud heart\\nplace during her illness, were afterwards re-enacted at the time of her\\ndeath. Since I wrote the words to which this note is appended, I received,\\nfrom an English traveller, this interesting account of the heroine s death, or\\nrather of the circumstances attending the discovery of the event the letter\\nis dated Djoun (Lady Hester s late residence) and contains the following\\npassages: I reached this strange hermitage last night, and though time\\nand some naval officers are urging my departure, I am too glad to find my-\\nself in a place whereof we have often discoursed, to allow the opportunity\\nof writing to you to pass by. How beautiful must this convent-palace have\\nbeen when you saw it, its strange mistress doing its hospitalities and exer-\\ncising her self- won regal power A friend of has a letter from the\\nSultan to her, beginning c Cousin. She annihilated a village for disobedi-\\nence, and burned a mountain chalet with all its inhabitants, for the murder\\nof a traveller. She held on gallantly to the last. Moore, our\\nConsul at Beyroot, heard she was ill, and rode over the mountains accom-\\npanied by a missionary, to visit her. A profound silence was over all the\\npalace no one met them they lighted their own lamps in the outer court,\\nand passed unquestioned through court and gallery, till they came to where\\nshe lay a corpse was the only inhabitant of Djoun, and the isolation from\\nher kind which she so long sought, was indeed completed. That morning\\nthirty-seven servants had watched every motion of her eye that spell once\\ndarkened by death, every one fled with the plunder not a single thing was\\nleft in the room where she lay dead, except upon her person no one had\\nventured to touch that, and even in death she seemed able to protect herself.\\nAt midnight the missionary carried her out to a favorite resort of hers in the\\ngarden, and there they buried her. The buildings are fast falling\\ninto decay.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "76\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\nof an English gentlewoman, was the only spot throughout all\\nSyria and Palestine in which the will of Mehemet Ali and his\\nfierce Lieutenant was not the law. More than once had the\\nPasha of Egypt commanded that Ibrahim should have the Alba-\\nnians delivered up to him, but this white woman of the mountain\\n(grown classical, not by books, but by very pride) answered\\nonly with a disdainful invitation to come and take them.\\nWhether it was that Ibrahim was acted upon by any superstitious\\ndread of interfering with the Prophetess (a notion not at all\\nincompatible with his character as an able Oriental commander),\\nor that he feared the ridicule of putting himself in collision with\\na gentlewspman, he certainly never ventured to attack the sanc-\\ntuary, and so long as the Chatham s grand-daughter breathed a\\nbreath of life, there was always this one hillock, and that, too, in\\nthe midst of a most populous district, which stood out and kept its\\nfreedom. Mehemet Ali used to say, I am told, that the English\\nwoman had given him more trouble than all the insurgent people\\nof Syria and Palestine.\\nThe Prophetess announced to me that we were upon the eve\\nof a stupendous convulsion, which would destroy the then recog-\\nnized value of all property upon earth, and declaring that those\\nonly who should be in the East at the time of the great change,\\ncould hope for greatness in the new life that was now close at\\nhand, she advised me, whilst there was yet time, to dispose of my\\nproperty in fragile England, and gain a station in Asia she told\\nme that, after leaving her, I should go into Egypt, but that in a\\nlittle while I should return into Syria. I secretly smiled at this\\nlast prophecy as a bad-shot, for I had fully determined, after\\nvisiting the pyramids, to take ship from Alexandria for Greece.\\nBut men struggle vainly in the meshes of their destiny the un-\\nbelieved Cassandra was right after all the Plague came, and\\nthe necessity of avoiding the Quarantine to which I should have\\nbeen subjected, if I had sailed from Alexandria, forced me to\\nalter my route I went down into Egypt, and stayed there for a\\ntime, and then crossed the Desert once more, and came back to\\nthe mountains of the Lebanon exactly as the Prophetess had\\nforetold.\\nLady Hester talked to me long and earnestly on the subject of", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "chap, viii.] LADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n77\\nReligion, announcing that the Messiah was yet to come she strived\\nto impress me with the vanity and the falseness of all European\\ncreeds, as well as with a sense of her own spiritual greatness\\nthroughout her conversation upon these high topics, she skilfully\\ninsinuated, without actually asserting, her heavenly rank.\\nAmongst other much more marvellous powers, the Lady\\nclaimed to have one which most women I fancy possess, namely,\\nthat of reading men s characters in their faces. she examined\\nthe line of my features very attentively, and told me the result,\\nwhich, however, I mean to keep hidden.\\nOne great subject of discourse was that of race/ upon which\\nshe was very diffuse, and yet rather mysterious she set great\\nvalue upon the ancient French (not Norman blood, for that she\\nvilified), but did not at all appreciate that which we call in this\\ncountry an old family. She had a vast idea of the Cornish\\nminers, on account of their race, and said, if she chose, she could\\ngive me the means of rousing them to the most tremendous\\nenthusiasm.\\nSuch are the topics on which the Lady mainly conversed, but\\nvery often she would descend to more worldly chat, and then she\\nwas no longer the prophetess, but the sort of woman that you\\nsometimes see, I am told, in London drawing-rooms, cool un-\\nsparing of enemies full of audacious fun, and saying the down-\\nright things that the sheepish society around her is afraid to\\nutter. I am told that Lady Hester was in her youth a capital\\nmimic, and she showed me that not all the queenly dullness to\\nwhich she had condemned herself, not all her fasting, and soli-\\ntude, had destroyed this terrible power. The first whom she\\ncrucified in my presence, was poor Lord Byron; she had seen\\nhim, it appeared, I know not where, soon after his arrival in the\\nEast, and was vastly amused at his little affectations he had\\npicked up a few sentences of the Romaic, with which he\\naffected to give orders to his Greek servant I can t tell whether\\nr\\nIn a letter which I afterwards received from Lady Hester, she mentioned\\nincidentally Lord Hardwicke, and said that he was the kindest-hearted\\nman existing a most manly, firm character. He comes from a good breed,\\nall the Yorkes excellent, with ancient French blood in their veins.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "78\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii.\\nLady Hester s mimicry of the bard was at all close, but it was\\namusing she attributed to him a curiously coxcombical lisp.\\nAnother person whose style of speaking the Lady took off\\nvery amusingly was one who would scarcely object to suffer by\\nthe side of Lord Byron, I mean Lamartine, who had visited\\nher in the course of his travels the peculiarity which attracted\\nher ridicule was an over- refinement of manner according to my\\nLady s imitation of Lamartine (I have never seen him myself),\\nhe had none of the violent grimace of his countrymen, and not\\neven their usual way of talking, but rather bore himself min-\\ncingly, like the humbler sort of English Dandy.*\\nLady Hester seems to have heartily despised everything\\napproaching to exquisiteness she told me, by the by (and her\\nopinion upon that subject is worth having), that a downright man-\\nner, amounting even to brusqueness, is more effective than any\\nother with the Oriental and that amongst the English, of all\\nranks, and all classes, there is no man so attractive to the Orien-\\ntals no man who can negotiate with them half so effectively, as\\na good, honest, open-hearted, and positive naval officer of the\\nold school.\\nI have told you, I think, that Lady Hester could deal fiercely\\nwith those she hated one man above all others (he is now up-\\nrooted from society, and cast away for ever) she blasted with\\nher wrath you would have thought that in the scornfulness of\\nher nature, she must have sprung upon her foe with more of\\nfierceness than of skill, but this was not so, for with all the\\nforce and vehemence of her invective, she displayed a sober,\\npatient and minute attention to the details of vituperation, which\\ncontributed to its success a thousand times more than mere vio-\\nlence.\\nIt is said that deaf people can hear what is said concerning themselves,\\nand it would seem that those who live without books, or newspapers, know\\nall that is written about them. Lady Hester Stanhope, though not admit-\\nting a book or newspaper into her fortress, seems to have known the way in\\nwhich M. Lamartine mentioned her in his book, for in a letter which\\nshe wrote to me after my return to England, she says, although neglected,\\nas Monsieur Le M. (referring as I believe to M. Lamartine) describes,\\nand without books, yet my head is organized to supply the want of them,\\nas well as acquired knowledge.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII.]\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n79\\nDuring the hours that this sort of conversation or rather dis-\\ncourse was going on, our tchibouques were from time to time re-\\nplenished, and the Lady as well as I, continued to smoke with little\\nor no intermission, till the interview ended. I think that the\\nfragrant fumes of Latakiah must have helped to keep me on\\nmy good behavior as a patient disciple of the Prophetess.\\nIt was not till after midnight that my visit for the evening\\ncame to an end when I quitted my seat the Lady rose, and stood\\nup in the same formal attitude (almost that of a soldier in a state\\nof attention/ which she had assumed at my entrance, at the\\nsame time she let go the drapery which she had held over her\\nlap whilst sitting, and allowed it to fall on the ground.\\nThe next morning after breakfast I was visited by my Lady s\\nSecretary the only European, except the Doctor, whom she\\nretained in her household. This Secretary, like the Doctor, was\\nItalian, but he preserved more signs of European dress and\\nEuropean pretensions, than his medical fellow-slave. He spoke\\nlittle or no English, though he wrote it pretty well, having been\\nformerly employed in a mercantile house connected with England.\\nThe poor fellow was in an unhappy state of mind. In order to\\nmake you understand the extent of his spiritual anxieties, I\\nought to have told you that the Doctor (who had sunk into the\\ncomplete Asiatic, and had condescended accordingly to the per-\\nformance of even menial services) had adopted the common\\nfaith of all the neighboring people, and had become a firm and\\nhappy believer in the divine power of his mistress. Not so the\\nSecretary when I had strolled with him to a distance from the\\nbuilding, which rendered him safe ,from being overheard by\\nhuman ears, he told me in a hollow voice, trembling with emo-\\ntion, that there were times at which he doubted the divinity of\\nMiledi. I said nothing to encourage the poor fellow in that\\nfrightful state of scepticism, which, if indulged, might end in\\npositive infidelity. I found that her Ladyship had rather arbi-\\ntrarily abridged the amusements of her Secretary, forbidding\\nhim from shooting small birds on the mountain side. This\\noppression had roused in him a spirit of inquiry that might end\\nfatally perhaps for himself perhaps for the religion of the\\nplace.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "so\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. viii. 1\\nThe Secretary told me that his Mistress was greatly disliked by\\nthe surrounding people whom she oppressed by her exactions,\\nand the truth of this statement was borne out by the way in\\nwhich my Lady spoke to me of her neighbors. But in Eastern\\ncountries, hate and veneration are very commonly felt for the\\nsame object, and the general belief in the superhuman power\\nof this wonderful white lady her resolute and imperious char-\\nacter, and above all, perhaps, her fierce Albanians (not back-\\nward to obey an order for the sacking of a village) inspired sin-\\ncere respect amongst the surrounding inhabitants. Now the\\nbeing respected amongst Orientals, is not an empty, or merely\\nhonorary distinction, for, on the contrary, it carries with it a\\nclear right to take your neighbor s corn, his cattle, his eggs, and\\nhis honey, and almost anything that is his, except his wives.\\nThis law was acted upon by the Princess of Djoun, and her\\nestablishment was supplied by contributions apportioned amongst\\nthe nearest of the villages.\\nI understood that the Albanians (restrained, I suppose, by\\ntheir dread of being delivered up to Ibrahim) had not given any\\nvery troublesome proofs of their unruly natures. The Secre-\\ntary told me that their rations, including a small allowance of\\ncoffee and tobacco, were served out to them with tolerable regu-\\nlarity.\\nI asked the Secretary, how Lady Hester was off for horses,\\nand said that I would take a look at the stable the man did not\\nraise any opposition to my proposal, and affected no mystery\\nabout the matter, but said that the only two steeds which then\\nbelonged to her Ladyship were of a very humble sort this\\nanswer, and a storm of rain which began to descend, prevented\\nme at the time from undertaking my journey to the stable,\\nwhich was at some distance from the part of the building in\\nwhich I was quartered, and I don t know that I ever thought o\\nthe matter afterwards, until my return to England, when I saw\\nLamartine s eye-witnessing account of the horse saddled by the\\nhands of his Maker\\nWhen I returned to my apartment (which, as my hostess told\\nme, was the only one in the whole building that kept out the rain)", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "chap, viii.] LADY HESTER STANHOPE.\\n81\\nher Ladyship sent to say that she would be glad to receive me\\nagain I was rather surprised at this, for I had understood that\\nshe reposed during the day, and it was now little later than\\nnoon. Really, said she, when I had taken my seat and my\\npipe, we were together for hours last night, and still I have\\nheard nothing at all of my old friends now do tell me some-\\nthing of your dear mother and her sister 1 never knew your\\nfather it was after I left Burton Pynsent that your mother mar-\\nried. I began to make slow answer, but my questioner soon\\nwent off again to topics more sublime, so that this second inter-\\nview, which lasted two or three hours, was occupied with the\\nsame sort of varied discourse as that which I have been\\ndescribing.\\nIn the course of the afternoon the captain of an English man-\\nof-war arrived at Djoun, and her Ladyship determined to receive\\nhim for the same reason as that which had induced her to allow\\nmy visit namely, an early intimacy with his family. I, and\\nthe new visitor, who was a pleasant, amusing person, dined\\ntogether, and we were afterwards invited to the presence of my\\nLady, with whom we sat smoking and talking till midnight. The\\nconversation turned chiefly, I think, upon magical science. I\\nhad determined to be off at an early hour the next morning, and\\nso at the end of this interview I bade my Lady farewell. With\\nher parting words she once more advised me to abandon Europe,\\nand seek my reward in the East, and she urged me, too, to give\\nthe like counsels to my father, and tell him that She had\\nsaid it. 33\\nLady Hester s unholy claim to supremacy in the spiritual\\nkingdom was, no doubt, the suggestion of fierce and inordinate\\npride, most perilously akin to madness, but I am quite sure that the\\nmind of the woman was too strong to be thoroughly overcome by\\neven this potent feeling. I plainly saw that she was not an un-\\nhesitating follower of her own system, and I even fancied that I\\ncould distinguish the brief moments during which she contrived\\nto believe in Herself, from those long and less happy intervals in\\nwhich her own reason was too strong for her.\\nAs for the Lady s faith in Astrology, and Magic science, you\\nare not for a moment to suppose that this implied any aberration\\n7", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "82\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. VIII.\\nof intellect. She believed these things in common with those\\naround her, for she seldom spoke to anybody, except crazy old\\ndervishes, who received her alms, and fostered her extrava-\\ngances, and even when (as on the occasion of my visit) she was\\nbrought into contact with a person entertaining different notions,\\nshe still remained uncontradicted. This entourage, and the\\nhabit of fasting from books and newspapers, were quite enough\\nto make her a facile recipient of any marvellous story.\\nI think that in England we are scarcely sufficiently conscious\\nof the great debt we owe to the wise and watchful press which\\npresides over the formation of our opinions, and which brings\\nabout this splendid result, namely, that in matters of belief the\\nhumblest of us are lifted up to the level of the most sagacious,\\nso that really a simple Cornet in the Blues is no more likely to\\nentertain a foolish belief about ghosts or witchcraft, or any other\\nsupernatural topic, than the Lord High Chancellor or the Leader\\nof the House of Commons. How different is the intellectual\\nregime of Eastern countries In Syria, and Palestine, and\\nEgypt, you might as well dispute the efficacy of grass or grain\\nas of Magic. There is no controversy about the matter. The\\neffect of this, the unanimous belief of an ignorant people upon\\nthe mind of a stranger, is extremely curious, and well worth\\nnoticing. A man coming freshly from Europe is at first proof\\nagainst the nonsense with which he is assailed, but often it hap-\\npens that after a little while the social atmosphere in which he\\nlives will begin to infect him, and if he has been unaccustomed\\nto the cunning of fence by which Reason prepares the means of\\nguarding herself against fallacy, he will yield himself at last to\\nthe faith of those around him, and this he will do by sympathy,\\nit would seem, rather than from conviction. I have been much\\ninterested in observing that the mere practical man, however\\nskilful and shrewd in his own way, has not the kind of power\\nwhich enables him to resist the gradual impression which is\\nmade upon his mind by the common opinion of those whom he\\nsees and hears from day to day. Even amongst the English\\n(whose good sense and sound religious knowledge would be\\nlikely to guard them from error), I have known the calculating\\nmerchant, the inquisitive traveller, and the post-captain, with his", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "CHAP. VIII. LADY HESTER STANHOPE. 83\\nbright, wakeful eye of command\u00e2\u0080\u0094 I have known all these sur-\\nrender themselves to the really magic-like influence of other\\npeople s minds their language at first is, that they are stag-\\ngered leading you by that expression to suppose that they had\\nbeen witnesses to some phenomenon, which it was very difficult\\nto account for otherwise than by supernatural causes, but when\\nI have questioned further, I have always found that these stag-\\ngering wonders were not even specious enough to be looked\\nupon as good tricks. A man in England, who gained his\\nwhole livelihood as a conjuror, would soon be starved to death if\\nhe could perform no better miracles than those which are wrought\\nwith so much effect in Syria and Egypt sometimes, no doubt, a\\nmagician will make a good hit (Sir Robert once said a good\\nthing but all such successes range, of course, under the head\\nof mere tentative miracles, as distinguished by the strong-\\nbrained Paley.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "64 EOTHEN. [chap. ix.\\nCHAPTER IX.\\nThe Sanctuary.\\nI crossed the plain of Esdraelon, and entered amongst the\\nhills of beautiful Galilee. It was at sunset that my path brought\\nme sharply round into the gorge of a little valley, and close upon\\na grey mass of dwellings that lay happily nestled in the lap of\\nthe mountain. There was one only shining point still touched\\nwith the light of the sun, who had set for all besides a brave\\nsign this to holy Shereef, and the rest of my Moslem men, for\\nthe one glittering summit was the head of a minaret, and the\\nrest of the seeming village that had veiled itself so meekly un-\\nder the shades of evening was Christian Nazareth\\nWithin the precincts of the Latin convent in which I was\\nquartered, there stands the great Catholic church which encloses\\nthe Sanctuary the dwelling of the blessed Virgin.* This is a\\nThe Greek Church does not recognize this as the true Sanctuary, and\\nmany Protestants look upon all the traditions, by which it is attempted to\\nascertain the holy places of Palestine, as utterly fabulous. For myself, I do\\nnot mean either to affirm or deny the correctness of the opinion which has\\nfixed upon this as the true site, but merely to mention it as a belief enter-\\ntained, without question, by my brethren of the Latin church, whose guest\\nI was at the time. It would be a great aggravation of the trouble of writing\\nabout these matters, if I were to stop in the midst of every sentence for the\\npurpose of saying so-called or so it is said, and would besides sound\\nvery ungraciously ;,yet I am anxious to be literally true in all I write. Now,\\nthus it is that I mean to get over my difficulty. Whenever in this great\\nbundle of papers, or book (if book it is to be), you see any words about mat-\\nters of religion which would seem to involve the assertion of my own\\nopinion, you are to understand me, just as if one or other of the qualifying\\nphrases above mentioned, had been actually inserted in every sentence. My\\ngeneral direction for you to construe me thus, will render all that I write as\\nstrictly and accurately true, as if I had every time lugged in a formal decla-\\nration of the fact, that I was merely expressing the notions of other people.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "CHAP. IX.]\\nTHE SANCTUARY.\\nS3\\ngrotto of about ten feet either way, forming a little chapel or\\nrecess, to which you descend by steps. It is decorated with\\nsplendor on the left hand a column of granite hangs from the\\ntop of the grotto, to within a few feet of the ground immediately\\nbeneath it is another column of the same size, which rises from\\nthe ground as if to meet the one above but between this and\\nthe suspended pillar, there is an interval of more than a foot\\nthese fragments once formed a single column, against which the\\nangel leant, when he spoke, and told to Mary the mystery of her\\nawful blessedness. Hard by, near the altar, the holy Virgin\\nwas kneeling.\\nI had been journeying (cheerily indeed, for the voices of my\\nfollowers were ever within my hearing, but yet) as it were, in\\nsolitude, for I had no comrade to whet the edge of my reason,\\nor wake me from my noon-day dreams. I was left all alone to\\nbe taught and swayed by the beautiful circumstances of Pales-\\ntine travelling by the clime, and the land, and the name of the\\nland with all its mighty import by the glittering freshness of\\nthe sward, and the abounding masses of flowers that furnished\\nmy sumptuous pathway by the bracing and fragrant air, that\\nseemed to poise me in my saddle, and to lift me along like a\\nplanet appointed to glide through space.\\nAnd the end of my journey was Nazareth the home of the\\nBlessed Virgin In the first dawn of my manhood, the old\\npainters of Italy had taught me their dangerous worship of the\\nbeauty that is more than mortal, but those images all seemed\\nshadowy now, and floated before me so dimly, the one overcast-\\ning the other, that they left me no one sweet idol on which I\\ncould look, and look again, and say, Maria mia Yet they\\nleft me more than an idol they left me (for to them I am wont\\nto trace it) a faint apprehension of Beauty not compassed with\\nlines and shadows they touched me (forgive, proud Marie of\\nAnjou they touched me with a faith in loveliness transcending\\nmortal shapes.\\nI came to Nazareth, and was led from the convent to the\\nSanctuary. Long fasting will sometimes heat my brain, and\\ndraw me away out of the world will disturb my judgment,\\nconfuse my notions of right and wrong, and weaken my power", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "86\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. IX.\\nof choosing the right I had fasted perhaps too long, for I was\\nfevered with the zeal of an insane devotion to the Heavenly\\nQueen of Christendom. But I knew the feebleness of this gen-\\ntle malady, and I knew how easily my watchful reason, if ever\\nso slightly provoked, would drag me back to life let there but\\ncome one chilling breath of the outer world, and all this loving\\npiety would cower, and fly before the sound of my own bitter\\nlaugh. And so as I went, I trod tenderly, not looking to the\\nright, nor to the left, but bending my eyes to the ground.\\nThe attending friar served me well he led me down quietly,\\nand all but silently to the Virgin s home. The mystic air was\\nso burnt with the consuming flames of the altar, and so laden\\nwith incense, that my chest labored strongly, and heaved with\\nluscious pain. There there with beating heart the Virgin\\nknelt, and listened I strived to grasp and hold with my rivet-\\ned eyes some one of the feigned Madonnas, but of all the\\nheaven-lit faces imagined by men, there was none that would\\nabide with me in this the very Sanctuary. Impatient of va-\\ncancy, I grew madly strong against Nature, and if by some\\nawful spell some impious rite, I could Oh most sweet\\nReligion that bid me fear God, and be pious, and yet not cease\\nfrom loving Religion and gracious Custom commanded me\\nthat I fall down loyally, and kiss the rock that blessed Mary\\npressed. With a half consciousness with the semblance of a\\nthrilling hope that I was plunging deep, deep into my first\\nknowledge of some most holy mystery, or of some new, raptur-\\nous, and daring sin, I knelt, and bowed down my face till I met\\nthe smooth rock with my lips. One moment one moment\\nmy heart, or some old Pagan demon within me woke up, and\\nfiercely bounded my bosom was lifted, and swung as though\\nI had touched Her warm robe. One moment one more, and\\nthen the fever had left me. I rose from my knees. I felt\\nhopelessly sane. The mere world re-appeared. My good old\\nMonk was there, dangling his key with listless patience, and as\\nhe guided me from the Church, and talked of the Refectory,\\nand the coming repast, I listened to his words with some atten-\\ntion and pleasure.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "chap, x.] THE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND.\\n87\\nCHAPTER X.\\nThe Monks of the Holy Land.\\nWhenever you come back to me from Palestine, we will find\\nsome golden wine, of Lebanon, that we may celebrate with\\napt libations the monks of the Holy Land, and, though the poor\\nfellows be theoretically dead to the world, we will drink to\\nevery man of them a good, long life, and a merry one Grace-\\nless is the traveller who forgets his obligations to these saints\\nupon earth little love has he for merry Christendom, if he has not\\nrejoiced with great joy to find in the very midst of water-drink-\\ning infidels, those lowly monasteries, in which the blessed juice\\nof the grape is quaffed in peace. Ay Ay We will fill our\\nglasses till they look like cups of amber, and drink profoundly to\\nour gracious hosts in Palestine.\\nYou would be likely enough to fancy that these monastics are\\nmen who have retired to the sacred sites of Palestine, from an\\nenthusiastic longing to devote themselves to the exercise of reli-\\ngion in the midst of the very land on which its first seeds were\\ncast, and this is partially, at least, the case with the monks of\\nthe Greek Church, but it is not with enthusiasts that the Catholic\\nestablishments are filled. The monks of the Latin convents are\\nchiefly persons of the peasant class, from Italy and Spain, who\\nhave been handed over to these remote asylums, by order of their\\necclesiastical superiors, and can no more account for their being\\nin the Holy Land, than men of marching regiments can explain\\nwhy they are in stupid quarters. I believe that these monks\\nare for the most part well conducted men, punctual in their\\nceremonial duties, and altogether humble-minded Christians\\ntheir humility is not at all misplaced, for you see at a glance\\n(poor fellows) that they belong to the lag remove of the hu-\\nVino d oro.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "88\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. x.\\nman race if the taking of the cowl does not imply a complete\\nrenouncement of the world, it is at least (in these days) a bona\\nfide farewell to every kind of useful and entertaining knowledge,\\nand accordingly, the low bestial brow, and the animal caste of\\nthose almost Bourbon features, show plainly enough that all the\\nintellectual vanities of life have been really and truly abandon-\\ned. But it is hard to quench altogether the spirit of Inquiry that\\nstirs in the human breast, and accordingly these monks inquire,\\nthey are always inquiring, inquiring for news Poor fel-\\nlows they could scarcely have yielded themselves to the sway\\nof any passion more difficult of gratification, for they have no\\nmeans of communicating with the journalized world, except\\nthrough European travellers and these in consequence, I sup-\\npose, of that restlessness and irritability which generally haunt\\ntheir wanderings, seem to have always avoided the bore of giv-\\ning any information to their hosts as for me, I am more patient\\nand good-natured, and when I found that the kind monks who\\ngathered round me at Nazareth were longing to know the real\\ntruth about the General Bonaparte, who had recoiled from the\\nsiege of Acre, I softened my heart down to the good humor of\\nHerodotus, and calmly began to sing History, telling my\\neager hearers of the French Empire, and the greatness of its\\nglory, and of Waterloo, and the fall of Napoleon Now my\\nstory of this marvellous ignorance on the part of the poor monks\\nis one upon which (though depending on my own testimony) I\\nlook with considerable suspicion; it is quite true (how silly it\\nwould be to invent anything so witless and yet I think I could\\nsatisfy the mind of a reasonable man, that it is false. Many\\nof the older monks must have been in Europe at a time when the\\nItaly and the Spain from which they came, were in act of taking\\ntheir French lessons, or had parted so lately with their teachers,\\nthat not to know of the Emperor, was impossible, and these\\nmen could scarcely, therefore, have failed to bring with them\\nsome tidings of Napoleon s career. Yet I say that that which I have\\nwritten is true, the one who believes because I have said it, will\\nbe right (she always is), while poor Mr. reasonable man,\\nwho is convinced by the weight of my argument, will be com-\\npletely deceived.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "CHAP. X.]\\nTHE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND.\\nSO\\nIn Spanish politics, however, the monks are better instructed\\nthe revenues of the monasteries, which had been principally\\nsupplied by the bounty of their most Catholic Majesties, have\\nbeen withheld since Ferdinand s death, and the interests of these\\nestablishments being thus closely involved in the destinies of\\nSpain, it is not wonderful that the brethren should be a little more\\nknowing in Spanish affairs, than in other branches of history.\\nBesides, a large proportion of the monks were natives of the\\nPeninsula to these, I remember, Mysseri s familiarity with the\\nSpanish language and character was a source of immense\\ndelight they were always gathering around him, and it seemed to\\nme that they treasured like gold the few Castilian words which\\nhe deigned to spare them.\\nChristianity permits, and sanctions the drinking of wine, and of\\nall the holy brethren of Palestine, there are none who hold fast to\\nthis gladsome rite so strenuously as the monks of Damascus\\nnot that they are more zealous Christians than the rest of their\\nfellows in the Holy Land, but that they have better wine.\\nWhilst I was at Damascus, I had my quarters at the Franciscan\\nconvent there, and very soon after my arrival I asked one of the\\nmonks to let me know something of the spots which deserved to\\nbe seen I made my inquiry in reference to the associations\\nwith which the city had been hallowed by the sojourn and adven-\\ntures of St. Paul. There is nothing in all Damascus, said\\nthe good man, half so well worth seeing as our cellars, and\\nforthwith he invited me to go, see, and admire the long ranges\\nof liquid treasure which he and his brethren had laid up for\\nthemselves on earth. And these, I soon found, were not as the\\ntreasures of the miser that lie in unprofitable disuse, for day by\\nday, and hour by hour, the golden juice ascended from the dark\\nrecesses of the cellar to the uppermost brains of the monks\\ndear old fellows in the midst of that solemn land, their Christian\\nlaughter rang loudly and merrily their eyes flashed with\\nunceasing bonfires, and their heavy woollen petticoats could no\\nmore weigh down the springiness of their paces, than the nominal\\ngauze of a danseuse can clog her bounding step.\\nThe monks do a world of good in their way and there can be\\nno doubting that previously to the arrival of Bishop Alexander.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "90\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. x.\\nwith his numerous young family, and his pretty English nurse-\\nmaids, they were the chief Propagandists of Christianity in\\nPalestine. My old friends of the Franciscan convent at Jerusa-\\nlem, some time since, gave proof of their goodness by deliver-\\ning themselves up to the peril of death for the sake of Duty.\\nWhen I was their guest, they were forty, I believe, in number,\\nand I don t recollect that there was one of them whom I should\\nhave looked upon as a desirable life-holder of any property to\\nwhich I might be entitled in expectancy. Yet these forty were\\nreduced in a few days to nineteen the Plague was the messen-\\nger that summoned them to a taste of real death, but the circum-\\nstances under which they perished are rather curious, and\\nthough I have no authority for the story except an Italian news-\\npaper, I harbor no doubt of its truth, for the facts were detailed\\nwith minuteness, and strictly corresponded with all that I knew\\nof the poor fellows to whom they related.\\nIt was about three months after the time of my leaving Jeru-\\nsalem, that the Plague set his spotted foot on the Holy City.\\nThe monks felt great alarm they did not shrink from their\\nduty, but for its performance they chose a plan most sadly well\\nfitted for bringing down upon them the very death which they\\nwere striving to ward off. They imagined themselves almost\\nsafe, so long as they remained within their walls but then it\\nwas quite needful that the Catholic Christians of the place, who\\nhad always looked to the convent for the supply of their spiritual\\nwants, should receive the aids of religion in the hour of death.\\nA single monk, therefore, was chosen either by lot, or by some\\nother fair appeal to Destiny being thus singled out, he was to\\ngo forth into the plague-stricken city, and to perform with exact-\\nness his priestly duties then he was to return, not to the interior\\nof the Convent, for fear of infecting his brethren, but to a de-\\ntached building (which I remember) belonging to the establish-\\nment, but at some little distance from the inhabited rooms he\\nwas provided with a bell, and at a certain hour in the morning\\nhe was ordered to ring it, if lie could but if no sound was heard\\nat the appointed time, then knew his brethren that he was either\\ndelirious, or dead, and another martyr was sent forth to take his\\nplace. In this way twenty-one of the monks were carried off.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "chap, x.] THE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND.\\n91\\nOne cannot well fail to admire the steadiness with which the dis-\\nmal scheme was carried through but if there be any truth in\\nthe notion, that disease may be invited by a frightening imagi-\\nnation, it is difficult to conceive a more dangerous plan than that\\nwhich was chosen by these poor fellows. The anxiety with\\nwhich they must have expected each day the sound of the bell\\nthe silence that reigned instead of it, and then the drawing of\\nthe lots (the odds against death being one point lower than yes-\\nterday) and the going forth of the newly doomed man all this\\nmust have widened the gulf that opens to the shades below\\nwhen his victim had already suffered so much of mental torture,\\nit was but easy work for big, bullying Pestilence to follow a for-\\nlorn monk from the beds of the dying, and wrench away his\\nlife from him, as he lay all alone in an outhouse.\\nIn most, I believe in all of the Holy Land convents, there are\\ntwo personages so strangely raised above their brethren in all\\nthat dignifies humanity, that their bearing the same habit their\\ndwelling under the same roof their worshipping the same God\\n(consistent as all this is with the spirit of their religion), yet\\nstrikes the mind with a sense of wondrous incongruity the men\\nI speak of are the Padre Superiore, and the 66 Padre Mission-\\nario. The former is the supreme and absolute governor of the\\nestablishment, over which he is appointed to rule the latter is\\nentrusted with the more active of the spiritual duties which\\nattach to the Pilgrim Church. He is the shepherd of the good\\nCatholic flock whose pasture is prepared in the midst of Mussul-\\nmans and schismatics he keeps the light of the true faith ever\\nvividly before their eyes reproves their vices supports them\\nin their good resolves consoles them in their afflictions, and\\nteaches them to hate the Greek church. Such are his labors,\\nand you may conceive that great tact must be needed for con-\\nducting with success the spiritual interests of the church under\\ncircumstances so odd as those which surround it in Palestine.\\nBut the position of the Padre Superiore is still more delicate\\nhe is almost unceasingly in treaty with the powers that be, and\\nthe worldly prosperity of the establishment over which he pre-\\nsides, is in great measure dependent upon the extent of diplo-\\nmatic skill which he can employ in its favor. I know not from\\nt", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "92\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. x.\\nwhat class of churchmen these personages are chosen, for there\\nis a mystery attending their origin, and the circumstance of their\\nbeing stationed in these convents, which Rome does not suffer to\\nbe penetrated I have heard it said that they are men of great\\nnote, and perhaps, of too high ambition in the Catholic Hierar-\\nchy, who, having fallen under the grave censure of the Church,\\nare banished for fixed periods to these distant monasteries. I\\nbelieve that the term during which they are condemned to\\nremain in the Holy Land, is from eight to twelve years. By\\nthe natives of the country, as well as by the rest of the brethren,\\nthey are looked upon as superior beings and rightly too, for\\nnature seems to have crowned them in her own true way.\\nThe chief of the Jerusalem convent was a noble creature\\nhis worldly and spiritual authority seemed to have surrounded\\nhim, as it were, with a kind of Court/ and the manly grace-\\nfulness of his bearing did honor to the throne which he filled.\\nThere were no lords of the bedchamber, and no gold sticks and\\nstones in waiting, yet everybody who approached him looked as\\nthough he were being presented every interview which he\\ngranted wore the air of an audience the brethren, as often\\nas they came near, bowed low, and kissed his hand, and if he\\nwent out, the Catholics of the place that hovered about the con-\\nvent, would crowd around him with devout affection, and almost\\nscramble for the blessing which his touch could give. He bore\\nhis honors all serenely, as though calmly conscious of his power\\nto bind and to loose.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "chap. XT.] FROM NAZARETH TO TIBERIAS.\\n93\\nCHAPTER XL\\nFrom Nazareth to Tiberias.\\nNeither old Sacred himself, nor any of his helpers, knew\\nthe road which I meant to take from Nazareth to the Sea of\\nGalilee, and from thence to Jerusalem, so I was forced to add\\nanother to my party, by hiring a guide. The associations of\\nNazareth, as well as my kind feeling towards the hospitable\\nmonks, whose guest I had been, inclined me to set at naught the\\nadvice which I had received against employing Christians. I\\naccordingly engaged a lithe, active young Nazarene, who was\\nrecommended to me by the monks, and who affected to be\\nfamiliar with the line of country through which I intended to\\npass. My disregard of the popular prejudice against Chris-\\ntians was not justified in this particular instance, by the result\\nof my choice. This you will see by and by.\\nI passed by Cana, and the house in which the water had been\\nturned into wine I came to the field in which our Saviour had\\nrebuked the Scotch Sabbath-keepers of that period, by suffering\\nhis disciples to pluck corn on the Lord s day I rode over the\\nground on which the fainting multitude had been fed, and they\\nshowed me some massive fragments the relics, they said, of\\nthat wondrous banquet, now turned into stone. The petrifac-\\ntion was most complete.\\nI ascended the height on which our Lord was standing when\\nhe wrought the miracle. The hill was lofty enough to show me\\nthe fairness of the land on all sides, but I have an ancient love\\nfor the mere features of a lake, and so forgetting all else when\\nI reached the summit, I looked away eagerly to the Eastward.\\nThere she lay, the Sea of Galilee. Less stern than Wastwater\\nShereef.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "94\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XI.\\nless fair than gentle Windermere, she had still the winning\\nways of an English lake she caught from the smiling heavens\\nunceasing light, and changeful phases of beauty, and with all\\nthis brightness on her face, she yet clung so fondly to the dull\\nhe-looking mountain at her side as though she would\\nSoothe him with her finer fancies,\\nTouch him with her lighter thought.\\nIf one might judge of men s real thoughts by their writings,\\nit would seem that there are people who can visit an interesting\\nlocality, and follow up continuously the exact train of thought\\nwhich ought to be suggested by the historical associations of the\\nplace. A person of this sort can go to Athens, and think of\\nnothing later than the age of Pericles can live with the Scipios\\nas long as he stays in Rome can go up in a balloon, and think\\nhow resplendently in former times the now vacant and desolate\\nair was peopled with angels how prettily it was crossed at in-\\ntervals by the rounds of Jacob s ladder I don t possess this\\npower at all it is only by snatches, and for few moments to-\\ngether, that I can really associate a place with its proper history.\\nThere at Tiberias, and along this western shore towards the\\nNorth, and upon the bosom too of the lake, our Saviour and his dis-\\nciples away flew those recollections, and my mind strained\\nEastward, because that that farthest shore was the end of the\\nworld that belongs to man the dweller the beginning of the\\nother and veiled world that is held by the strange race, whose\\nlife (like the pastime of Satan) is a going to and fro upon the\\nface of the earth. From those grey hills right away to the\\ngates of Bagdad stretched forth the mysterious Desert not\\na pale, void, sandy tract, but a land abounding in rich pastures\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094a land without cities or towns, without any respectable\\npeople, or any respectable things, yet yielding its eighty\\nthousand cavalry to the beck of a few old men. But once\\nmore Tiberias the plain of Gennesareth the very earth on\\nwhich I stood that the deep, low tones of the Saviour s voice\\nshould have gone forth into Eternity from out of the midst of\\nTennyson.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XI.]\\nFROM NAZARETH TO TIBERIAS.\\n9-3\\nthese hills, and these valleys Ay, Ay, but yet again the calm\\nface of the Lake was uplifted, and smiled upon my eyes with\\nsuch familiar gaze, that the deep low tones were hushed\\nthe listening multitudes all passed away, and instead there came\\nto me a dear old memory from over the seas in England a\\nmemory sweeter than the veriest Gospel to that poor, wilful\\nmortal, me.\\nI went to Tiberias, and soon got afloat upon the water. In\\nthe evening I took up my quarters in the Catholic Church, and,\\nthe building being large enough, the whole of my party were\\nadmitted to the benefit of the same shelter. With portmanteaus,\\nand carpet bags, and books, and maps, and fragrant tea, Mys-\\nseri soon made me a home on the southern side of the church.\\nOne of old Shereef s helpers was an enthusiastic Catholic, and\\nwas greatly delighted at having so sacred a lodging. He lit up\\nthe altar with a number of tapers, and when his preparations\\nwere complete, he began to perform his orisons in the strangest\\nmanner imaginable his lips muttered the prayers of the Latin\\nChurch, but he bowed himself down, and laid his forehead to\\nthe stones beneath him, after the manner of a Mussulman. The\\nuniversal aptness of a religious system for all stages of civilisa-\\ntion, and for all sorts and conditions of men, well befits its\\nclaim of divine origin. She is of all nations, and of all times,\\nthat wonderful Church of Rome\\nTiberias is one of the four holy cities,* according to the\\nTalmud, and it is from this place or the immediate neighborhood\\nof it, that the Messiah is to arise.\\nExcept at Jerusalem, never think of attempting to sleep in a\\nholy city. Old Jews from all parts of the world go to lay\\ntheir bones upon the sacred soil, and as these people never re-\\nturn to their homes, it follows that any domestic vermin which\\nthey may bring with them are likely to become permanently\\nresident, so that the population is continually increasing. No\\nrecent census had been taken when I was at Tiberias, but I\\nknow that the congregation of fleas which attended at my church\\nThe other three cities held holy by Jews are Jersualem, Hebron, and\\nSafet.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "90\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XI.\\nalone, must have been something enormous. It was a carnal,\\nself-seeking congregation, wholly inattentive to the service\\nwhich was going on, and devoted to the one object of having\\nmy blood. The fleas of all nations were there. The smug,\\nsteady, importunate flea from Holywell street the pert, jump-\\ning puce from hungry France the wary, watchful pulce\\nwith his poisoned stiletto the vengeful pulga of Castile with\\nhis ugly knife the German floh with his knife and fork\\ninsatiate not rising from table whole swarms from all the\\nRussias, and Asiatic hordes unnumbered all these were there,\\nand all rejoiced in one great international feast. I could no\\nmore defend myself against my enemies, than if I had been\\npain a discretion 5 in the hands of a French patriot, or Eng-\\nlish gold in the claws of a Pennsylvanian Quaker. After\\npassing a night like this, you are glad to pick up the wretched\\nremains of your body, long, long before morning dawns. Your\\nskin is scorched your temples throb your lips feel withered\\nand dried your burning eye-balls are screwed inwards against\\nthe brain. You have no hope but only in the saddle, and the\\nfreshness of the morning air.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XII.]\\nMY FIRST BIVOUAC.\\n97\\nCHAPTER XII.\\nMy first bivouac.\\nThe course of the Jordan is from the north to the south, and in\\nthat direction, with very little of devious winding, it carries the\\nshining waters of Galilee straight down into the solitudes of the\\nDead Sea. Speaking roughly, the river in that meridian, is a\\nboundary between the people living under roofs, and the tented\\ntribes that wander on the farther side. And so, as I went down\\nin my way from Tiberias towards Jerusalem, along the western\\nbank of the stream, my thinking all propended to the ancient\\nworld of herdsmen, and warriors, that lay so close over my\\nbridle arm.\\nIf a man, and an Englishman, be not born of his mother with\\na natural Chifmey-bit in his mouth, there comes to him a time\\nfor loathing the wearisome ways of society a time for not liking\\ntamed people a time for not dancing quadrilles not sitting in\\npews a time for pretending that Milton, and Shelley, and all\\nsorts of mere dead people, were greater in death than the first\\nliving Lord of the Treasury a time in short for scoffing and\\nrailing for speaking lightly of the very opera, and all our most\\ncherished institutions. It is from nineteen, to two or three and\\ntwenty perhaps, that this war of the man against men is like to\\nbe waged most sullenly. You are yet in this smiling England,\\nbut you find yourself wending away to the dark sides of her\\nmountains, climbing the dizzy crags, exulting in the fellow-\\nship of mists and clouds, and watching the storms how they\\ngather, or proving the mettle of your mare upon the broad and\\ndreary downs, because that you feel congenially with the yet\\nunparcelled earth. A little while you are free, and unlabelled,\\nlike the ground that you compass, but Civilisation is coming,\\nand coming j you, and your much loved waste lands will be\\n8", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "98\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XII.\\nsurely inclosed, and sooner, or later, you will be brought down\\nto a state of utter usefulness the ground will be curiously\\nsliced into acres, and roods, and perches, and you, for all you\\nsit so smartly in your saddle, you will be caught you will\\nbe taken up from travel, as a colt from grass, to be trained,\\nand tired, and matched, and run. All this in time, but first\\ncome continental tours, and the moody longing for Eastern\\ntravel the downs and the moors of England can hold you no\\nlonger with larger stride you burst away from these slips and\\npatches of free land you thread your path through the crowds\\nof Europe, and at last on the banks of Jordan, you joyfully\\nknow that you are upon the very frontier of all accustomed re-\\nspectabilities. There, on the other side of the river (you can\\nswim it with one arm), there reigns the people that will be like\\nto put you to death for not being a vagrant, for not being a rob-\\nber, for not being armed, and houseless. There is comfort in\\nthat health, comfort, and strength to one who is dying from\\nvery weariness of that poor, dear, middle-aged, deserving, ac-\\ncomplished, pedantic, and pains-taking governess Europe.\\nI had ridden for some hours along the right bank of Jordan,\\nwhen I came to the Djesr el Medjame (an old Roman bridge, I\\nbelieve), which crossed the river. My Nazarene guide was\\nriding ahead of the party, and now, to my surprise and delight, he\\nturned leftwards, and led on over the bridge. I knew that the\\ntrue road to Jerusalem must be mainly by the right bank of\\nJordan, but I supposed that my guide was crossing the bridge at\\nthis spot in order to avoid some bend in the river, and that he\\nknew of a ford lower down by which we should regain the west-\\nern bank. I made no question about the road, for I was but\\ntoo glad to set my horse s hoofs upon the land of the wandering\\ntribes. None of my party, except the Nazarene, knew the\\ncountry. On we went through rich pastures upon the Eastern\\nside of the water. I looked for the expected bend of the river,\\nbut far as I could see, it kept a straight southerly course I\\nstill left my guide unquestioned.\\nThe Jordan is not a perfectly accurate boundary betwixt roofs\\nand tents, for soon after passing the bridge I came upon a clus-\\nter of huts. Some time afterwards the guide, upon being closely", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XII.]\\nMY FIRST BIVOUAC.\\n99\\nquestioned by my servants, confessed that the village which we\\nhad left behind was the last that we should see, but he de-\\nclared that he knew a spot at which we should find an encamp-\\nment of friendly Bedouins, who would receive me with all hos-\\npitality. I had long determined not to leave the East without\\nseeing something of the wandering tribes, but I had looked for-\\nward to this as a pleasure to be found in the Desert between El\\nArish and Egypt I had no idea that the Bedouins on the East\\nof Jordan were accessible. My delight was so great at the near\\nprospect of bread and salt in the tent of an Arab warrior, that I\\nwilfully allowed my guide to go on and mislead me I saw that\\nhe was taking me out of the straight route towards Jerusalem,\\nand was drawing me into the midst of the Bedouins, but the idea\\nof his betraying me seemed (I know not why) so utterly absurd,\\nthat I could not entertain it for a moment I fancied it possible\\nthat the fellow had taken me out of my route in order to attempt\\nsome little mercantile enterprise with the tribe for which he was\\nseeking, and I was glad of the opportunity which I might thus\\ngain of coming in contact with the wanderers.\\nNot long after passing the village, a horseman met us it ap-\\npeared that some of the cavalry of Ibrahim Pasha had crossed\\nthe river for the sake of the rich pastures on the eastern bank,\\nand that this man was one of the troopers he stopped, and\\nsaluted he was obviously surprised at meeting an unarmed, or\\nhalf-armed cavalcade, and at last fairly told us that we were on\\nthe wrong side of the river, and that if we proceeded, we must\\nlay our account with falling amongst robbers. All this while,\\nand throughout the day, my Nazarene kept well ahead of the\\nparty, and was constantly up in his stirrups, straining forward,\\nand searching the distance for some objects which still remained\\nunseen.\\nFor the rest of the day we saw no human being we pushed on\\neagerly in the hope of coming up with the Bedouins before night-\\nfall. Night came, and we still went on in our way till about ten^\\no clock. Then the thorough darkness of the night and the wea-\\nriness of our beasts (which had already done two good days\\njourney in one) forced us to determine upon coming to a stand-\\nstill. Upon the heights to the eastward we saw lights these", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "100\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XII.\\nshone from caves on the mountain-side, inhabited, as the Naza-\\nrene told us, by rascals of a low sort not real Bedouins men\\nwhom we might frighten into harmlessness, but from whom there\\nwas no willing hospitality to be expected.\\nWe heard at a little distance the brawling of a rivulet, and on\\nthe banks of this it was determined to establish our bivouac we\\nsoon found the stream, and following its course for a few yards,\\ncame to a spot which was thought to be fit for our purpose. It\\nwas a sharply cold night in February, and when I dismounted I\\nfound myself standing upon some wet, rank herbage, that pro-\\nmised ill for the comfort of our resting-place. I had bad hopes\\nof a fire, for the pitchy darkness of the night was a great obsta-\\ncle to any successful search for fuel, and besides, the boughs of\\ntrees or bushes would be so full of sap in this early spring, that\\nthey would not be easily persuaded to burn. However, we were\\nnot likely to submit to a dark and cold bivouac without an effort,\\nand my fellows groped forward through the darkness, till after\\nadvancing a few paces, they were happily stopped by a complete\\nbarrier of dead prickly bushes. Before our swords could be\\ndrawn to reap this glorious harvest, it was found, to our surprise,\\nthat the precious fuel was already hewn, and strewed along the\\nground in a thick mass. A spot fit for the fire was found with\\nsome difficulty, for the earth was moist, and the grass high and\\nrank. At last there was a clicking of flint and steel, and pre-\\nsently there stood out from darkness one of the tawny faces of\\nmy muleteers, bent down to near the ground, and suddenly lit up\\nby the glowing of the spark, which he courted with careful\\nbreath. Before long there was a particle of dry fibre, or leaf,\\nthat kindled to a tiny flame then another was lit from that, and\\nthen another. Then small, crisp twigs, little bigger than bod-\\nkins, were laid athwart the growing fire. The swelling cheeks\\nof the muleteer laid level with the earth, blew tenderly at first,\\nand then more boldly, upon the young flame, which was daintily\\nnursed and fed, and fed more plentifully when it gained good\\nstrength. At last a whole armful of dry bushes was piled up\\nover the fire, and presently with loud, cheery cracking and crack-\\nling, a royal tall blaze shot up from the earth, and showed me\\nonce more the shapes and faces of my men, and the dim outlines\\nof the horses and mules that stood grazing hard by.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0120.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XII.]\\nMY FIRST BIVOUAC.\\n101\\nMy servants busied themselves in unpacking the baggage, as\\nthough we had arrived at an hotel Shereef and his helpers un-\\nsaddled their cattle. We had left Tiberias without the slightest\\nidea that we were to make our way to Jerusalem along the deso-\\nlate side of the Jordan, and my servants (generally provident in\\nthose matters) had brought with them only, I think, some unlea-\\nvened bread, and a rocky fragment of goat s-milk cheese.\\nThese treasures were produced. Tea, and the contrivances for\\nmaking it, were always a standing part of my baggage. My\\nmen gathered in circle around the fire. The Nazarene was in\\na false position, from having misled us so strangely, and he\\nwould have shrunk back, poor devil, into the cold and outer\\ndarkness, but I made him draw near, and share the luxuries of\\nthe night. My quilt and my pelisse were spread, and the rest\\nof my party had all their capotes, or pelisses, or robes of some\\nsort, which furnished their couches. The men gathered in cir-\\ncle, some kneeling, some sitting, some lying reclined around our\\ncommon hearth. Sometimes on one, sometimes on another, the\\nflickering light would glare more fiercely. Sometimes it was\\nthe good Shereef that seemed the foremost, as he sat with vene-\\nrable beard, the image of manly piety unknowing of all\\ngeography, unknowing where he was, or whither he might go,\\nbut trusting in the goodness of God, and the clenching power of\\nfate, and the good star of the Englishman. Sometimes like\\nmarble, the classic face of the Greek Mysseri would catch the\\nsudden light, and then again by turns the ever-perturbed Dthe-\\nmetri, with his odd Chinaman s eyes, and bristling, terrier-like\\nmoustache, shone forth illustrious.\\nI always liked the men who attended me on these Eastern\\ntravels, for they were all of them brave, cheery-hearted fellows,\\nand although their following my career brought upon them a\\npretty large share of those toils and hardships which are so much\\nmore amusing to gentlemen than to servants, yet not one of\\nthem ever uttered or hinted a syllable of complaint, or even\\naffected to put on an air of resignation I always liked them,\\nbut never perhaps so much as when they were thus gi ouped\\ntogether under the light of the bivouac fire. I felt towards\\nthem as my comrades, rather than as my servants, and took", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0121.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "102\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xii.\\ndelight in breaking bread with them, and merrily passing the\\ncup.\\nThe love of tea is a glad source of fellow-feeling between\\nthe Englishman and the Asiatic in Persia it is drunk by all,\\nand although it is a luxury that is rarely within the reach of the\\nOsmanlees, there are few of them who do not know and love the\\nblessed tchai. Our camp-kettle filled from the brook hum-\\nmed doubtfully for awhile then busily bubbled under the side-\\nlong glare of the flames cups clinked and rattled the fragrant\\nsteam ascended, and soon this little circlet in the wilderness\\ngrew warm and genial as my lady s drawing-room.\\nAnd after this there came the tchibouque great comforter of\\nthose that are hungry and way-worn. And it has this virtue\\nit helps to destroy the gene and awkwardness which one some-\\ntimes feels at being in company with one s dependents; for\\nwhilst the amber is at your lips, there is nothing ungracious in\\nyour remaining silent, or speaking pithily in short inter- whiff\\nsentences. And for us that night there was pleasant and plen-\\ntiful matter of talk for the where we should be on the morrow,\\nand the wherewithal we should be fed whether by some ford\\nwe should regain the western banks of Jordan, or find bread and\\nsalt under the tents of a wandering tribe, or whether we should\\nfall into the hands of the Philistines, and so come to see Death\\nthe last, and greatest of all the fine sights that there be\\nthese were questionings not dull nor wearisome to us, for we\\nwere all concerned in the answers. And it was not an ill-\\nimagined morrow that we probed with our sharp guesses, for the\\nlights of those low Philistines the men of the caves still hung\\nover our heads, and we knew by their yells that the fire of our\\nbivouac had shown us.\\nAt length we thought it well to seek for sleep. Our plans\\nwere laid for keeping up a good watch through the night. My\\nquilt, and my pelisse, and my cloak, were spread out so that\\nI might lie spokewise, with my feet towards the central fire. I\\nwrapped my limbs daintily round, and gave myself positive\\norders to sleep like a veteran soldier. But I found that my\\nattempt to sleep upon the earth that God gave me was more\\nnew and strange than I had fancied it. I had grown used to", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0122.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XII.]\\nMY FIRST BIVOUAC.\\n103\\nthe scene which was before me whilst I was sitting, or reclining\\nby the side of the fire, but now that I laid myself down at length,\\nit was the deep black mystery of the heavens that hung over my\\neyes not an earthly thing in the way from my own very fore-\\nhead right up to the end of all space. I grew proud of my\\nboundless bed-chamber. I might have found sermons in all\\nthis greatness (if I had I should surely have slept), but such was\\nnot then my way. If this cherished Self of mine had built the\\nUniverse, I should have dwelt with delight on the wonders of\\ncreation. As it was, I felt rather the vain-glory of my pro-\\nmotion from out of mere rooms and houses into the midst of that\\ngrand, dark, infinite palace.\\nAnd then, too, my head, far from the fire, was in cold lati-\\ntudes, and it seemed to me strange that I should be lying so\\nstill, and passive, whilst the sharp night breeze walked free\\nover my cheek, and the cold damp clung to my hair, as though\\nmy face grew in the earth, and must bear with the footsteps of\\nthe wind, and the falling of the dew, as meekly as the grass of\\nthe field. Besides, I got puzzled and distracted by having to\\nendure heat and cold at the same time, for I was always con-\\nsidering whether my feet were not over-devilled, and whether\\nmy face was not too well iced. And so when from time to time\\nthe watch quietly and gently kept up the languishing fire, he\\nseldom, I think, was unseen to my restless eyes. Yet, at last,\\nwhen they called me, and said that the morn would soon be\\ndawning, I rose from a state of half-oblivion, not much unlike\\nto sleep, though sharply qualified by a sort of vegetable s con-\\nsciousness of having been growing still colder and colder, for\\nmany, and many an hour.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0123.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "104\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xm.\\nCHAPTER XIII.\\nThe Dead Sea.\\nThe grey light of the morning showed us for the first time, the\\nground which we had chosen for our resting-place. We found\\nthat we had bivouacked upon a little patch of barley, plainly\\nbelonging to the men of the caves. The dead bushes which we\\nfound so happily placed in readiness for our fire, had been\\nstrewn as a fence for the protection of the little crop. This\\nwas the only cultivated spot of ground which we had seen for\\nmany a league, and I was rather sorry to find that our night\\nfire and our cattle had spread so much ruin upon this poor soli-\\ntary slip of corn land.\\nThe saddling and loading of our beasts, was a work which\\ngenerally took nearly an hour, and before this was half over,\\ndaylight came. We could now see the men of the caves.\\nThey collected in a body, amounting, I should think, to nearly\\nfifty, and rushed down towards our quarters with fierce shouts\\nand yells. But the nearer they came, the slower they went\\ntheir shouts grew less resolute in tone, and soon ceased alto-\\ngether. The fellows advanced to a thicket within thirty yards\\nof us, and behind this took up their position. 55 My men with-\\nout premeditation did exactly that which was best they kept\\nsteadily to their work of loading the beasts without fuss, or\\nhurry, and whether it was that they instinctively felt the wisdom\\nof keeping quiet, or that they merely obeyed the natural incli-\\nnation to silence, which one feels in the early morning I can-\\nnot tell, but I know that except when they exchanged a syllable\\nor two relative to the work they were about, not a word was\\nsaid. I now believe, that this quietness of our party created\\nan undefined terror in the minds of the cave-holders, and scared\\nthem from coming on it gave them a notion that we were re-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0124.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XIII.]\\nTHE DEAD SEA.\\n105\\nlying on some resources which they knew not of. Several\\ntimes the fellows tried to lash themselves into a state of excite-\\nment which might do instead of pluck. They would raise a\\ngreat shout, and sway forward in a dense body from behind the\\nthicket but when they saw that their bravery, thus gathered\\nto a head, did not even suspend the strapping of a portmanteau,\\nor the tying of a hat-box, their shout lost its spirit, and the whole\\nmass was irresistibly drawn back like a wave receding from\\nthe shore.\\nThese attempts at an onset were repeated several times, but\\nalways with the same result I remained under the apprehen-\\nsion of an attack for more than half an hour, and it seemed to\\nme that the work of packing and loading had never been done\\nso slowly. I felt inclined to tell my fellows to make their best\\nspeed, but just as I was going to speak, I observed that every\\none was doing his duty already I therefore held my peace, and\\nsaid not a word, till at last Mysseri led up my horse, and asked\\nme if I were ready to mount.\\nWe all marched off without hindrance.\\nAfter some time, we came across a party of Ibrahim s cavalry,\\nwhich had bivouacked at no great distance from us. The\\nknowledge that such a force was in the neighborhood may have\\nconduced to the forbearance of the cave-holders.\\nWe saw a scraggy-looking fellow nearly black, and wearing\\nnothing but a cloth round the loins he was tending flocks.\\nAfterwards I came up with another of these goat-herds, whose\\nhelpmate was with him. They gave us some goat s milk, a wel-\\ncome present. I pitied the poor devil of a goat-herd for having such\\na very plain wife. I spend an enormous quantity of pity upon\\nthat particular form of human misery.\\nAbout mid-day I began to examine my map, and to question\\nmy guide, who at last fell on his knees, and confessed that he\\nknew nothing of the country in which we were. I was thus thrown\\nupon my own resources, and calculating that on the preceding\\nday, we had nearly performed a two days journey, I concluded\\nthat the Dead Sea must be near. In this I was right, for at\\nabout 3 or 4 o clock in the afternoon, I caught a first sight of its\\ndismal face.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0125.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "106\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xiii.\\nI went on, and came near to those waters of Death they\\nstretched deeply into the southern desert, and before me, and all\\naround, as far away as the eye could follow, blank hills piled\\nhigh over hills, pale, yellow, and naked, walled up in her tomb\\nfor ever, the dead, and damned Gomorrah. There was no fly\\nthat hummed in the forbidden air, but instead a deep stillness\\nno grass grew from the earth no weed peered through the void\\nsand, but in mockery of all life, there were trees borne down by\\nJordan in some ancient flood, and these grotesquely planted upon\\nthe forlorn shore, spread out their grim skeleton arms all scorch-\\ned, and charred to blackness, by the heats of the long, silent\\nyears.\\nI now struck off towards the debouchure of the river but I\\nfound that the country, though seemingly quite flat, was inter-\\nsected by deep ravines, which did not show themselves until\\nnearly approached. For some time my progress was much\\nobstructed but at last I came across a track which led towards\\nthe river, and which might, as I hoped, bring me to a ford. I\\nfound, in fact, when I came to the river s side, that the track\\nreappeared upon the opposite banks, plainly showing that the\\nstream had been fordable at this place. Now, however, in con-\\nsequence of the late rains, the river was quite impracticable for\\nbaggage horses. A body of waters, about equal to the Thames\\nat Eton, but confined to a narrower channel, poured down in a\\ncurrent so swift and heavy, that the idea of passing with laden\\nbaggage horses was utterly forbidden. I could have swum\\nacross myself, and I might, perhaps, have succeeded in swim-\\nming a horse over. But this would have been useless, because\\nin such case I must have abandoned, not only my baggage, but\\nall my attendants, for none of them were able to swim, and with-\\nout that resource, it would have been madness for them to rely\\nupon the swimming of their beasts across such a powerful\\nstream. I still hoped, however, that there might be a chance of\\npassing the river at the point of its actual junction with the Dead\\nSea, and I therefore went on in that direction.\\nNight came upon us whilst laboring across gullies, and sandy\\nmounds, and we were obliged to come to a stand-still quite sud-\\ndenly, upon the very edge of a precipitous descent. Every step", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0126.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XIII.]\\nTHE DEAD SEA.\\n107\\ntowards the Dead Sea had brought us into a country more, and\\nmore dreary and this sand-hill, which we were forced to choose\\nfor our resting-place, was dismal enough. A few slender blades\\nof grass, which here and there singly pierced the sand, mocked\\nbitterly the hunger of our jaded beasts, and with our small\\nremaining fragment of goat s milk rock, by way of supper, we\\nwere not much better off than our horses we wanted, too, the\\ngreat requisite of a cheery bivouac fire. Moreover, the spot on\\nwhich we had been so suddenly brought to a stand-still was rela-\\ntively high, and unsheltered, and the night wind blew swiftly,\\nand cold.\\nThe next morning I reached the debouchure of the Jordan,\\nwhere I had hoped to find a bar of sand that might render its\\npassage possible. The river, however, rolled its eddying waters\\nfast down to the sea/ in a strong, deep stream that shut out all\\nhope of crossing. It was always said that no vegetation could\\nlive in the neighborhood of the Dead Sea, but now I began to\\nlook upon my party and myself as forming a very fine planta-\\ntion for never in the hunting sense of the term were men more\\nthoroughly planted.\\nIt now seemed necessary either to construct a raft of some\\nkind, or else to retrace my steps, and remount the banks of the\\nJordan. 1 had once happened to give some attention to the sub-\\nject of military bridges a branch of military science which\\nincludes the construction of rafts, and contrivances of the like\\nsort, and I should have been very proud indeed, if I could have\\ncarried my party and my baggage across by dint of any idea\\ngathered from Sir Howard Douglas, or Robinson Crusoe. But\\nwe were all faint, and languid from want of food, and besides\\nthere were no materials. Higher up the river there were bushes,\\nand river plants, but nothing like timber, and the cord with\\nwhich my baggage was tied to the pack-saddles amounted\\naltogether to a very small quantity not nearly enough to haul\\nany sort of craft across the stream.\\nAnd now it was, if I remember rightly, that Dthemetri sub-\\nmitted to me a plan for putting to death the Nazarene, whose\\nmisguidance had been the cause of our difficulties. There was\\nsomething fascinating in. this suggestion, for the slaying of the", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0127.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "108\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XIII.\\nguide was of course easy enough, and would look like an act of\\nwhat politicians call vigor. If it were only to become known\\nto my friends in England that I had calmly killed a fellow crea-\\nture for taking me out of my way, I might remain perfectly quiet\\nand tranquil for all the rest of my days, quite free from the\\ndanger of being considered slow I might ever after live on\\nupon my reputation like single-speech Hamilton in the last\\ncentury, or single-sin in this, without being obliged to\\ntake the trouble of doing any more harm in the world. This\\nwas a great temptation to an indolent person, but the motive was\\nnot strengthened by any sincere feeling of anger with the Na-\\nzarene whilst the question of his life and death was debated,\\nhe was riding in front of our party, and there was something in the\\nanxious writhing of his supple limbs that seemed to express a\\nsense of his false position, and struck me as highly comic I\\nhad no crotchet at that time against the punishment of the\\ndeath, but I was unused to blood, and the proposed victim looked\\nso thoroughly capable of enjoying life (if he could only get to\\nthe other side of the rive), that I thought it would be hard for\\nhim to die, merely in order to give me a character for energy.\\nActing on the result of these considerations, and reserving to\\nmyself a free and unfettered discretion to have the poor villain\\nshot at any future moment, I magnanimously decided that for\\nthe present he should live, and not die.\\nI bathed in the Dead Sea. The ground covered by the water,\\nsloped so gradually, that I was not only forced to sneak in,\\nbut to walk through the water nearly a quarter of a mile before\\nI could get out of my depth. When at last I was able to attempt,\\na dive, the salts held in solution made my eyes smart so sharply\\nthat the pain which I thus suffered acceding to the weakness\\noccasioned by want of food, made me giddy and faint for some\\nmoments, but I soon grew better. I knew beforehand the im-\\npossibility of sinking in this buoyant water, but I was surprised\\nto find that I could not swim at my accustomed pace my legs\\nand feet were lifted so high and dry out of the lake, that my\\nstroke was baffled, and I found myself kicking against the thin\\nair, instead of the dense fluid upon which I was swimming. The\\nwater is perfectly bright and clear; its taste detestable. After", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0128.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XIII.]\\nTHE DEAD SEA.\\n109\\nfinishing my attempts at swimming and diving, I took some time\\nin regaining the shore, and before I began to dress, I found that\\nthe sun had already evaporated the water which clung to me,\\nand that my skin was thickly encrusted with sulphate of mag-\\nnesia.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0129.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "110\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xiv.\\nCHAPTER XIV.\\nThe Black Tents.\\nMy steps were reluctantly turned towards the north. I had\\nridden some way and still it seemed that all life was fenced, and\\nbarred out from the desolate ground over which I was jour-\\nneying. On the west there flowed the impassable Jordan\\non the east stood an endless range of barren mountains, and on\\nthe south lay that desert sea that knew not the plashing of an\\noar greatly therefore was I surprised, when suddenly there\\nbroke upon my ear, the long, ludicrous, persevering bray of a\\nliving donkey. I was riding at this time some few hundred\\nyards a-head of all my party, except the Nazarene (who by a\\nwise instinct kept closer to me than to Dthemetri), and I instantly\\nwent forward in the direction of the sound, for I fancied that\\nwhere there were donkeys, there too most surely would be men.\\nThe ground on all sides of me seemed thoroughly void and life-\\nless, but at last I got down into a hollow, and presently a sudden\\nturn brought me within thirty yards of an Arab encampment.\\nThe low black tents which I had so long lusted to see were right\\nbefore me, and they were all teeming with live Arabs men,\\nwomen, and children.\\nI wished to have let my party behind know where I was, but\\nI recollected that they would be able to trace me by the prints\\nof my horse s hoofs in the sand, and having to do with Asiatics,\\nI felt the danger of the slightest movement which might be\\nlooked upon as a sign of irresolution. Therefore, without look-\\ning behind me without looking to the right or to the left, I rode\\nstraight up towards the foremost tent. Before this was strewn a\\nsemicircular fence of dead boughs, through which there was an\\nopening opposite to the front of the tent. As I advanced, some\\ntwenty or thirty of the most uncouth looking fellows imaginable", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0130.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XIV.]\\nTHE BLACK TENTS.\\nIll\\ncame forward to meet me. In their appearance they showed\\nnothing of the Bedouin blood they were of many colors, from\\ndingy brown to jet black, and some of these last had much of\\nthe negro look about them. They were tall, powerful fellows,\\nbut awfully ugly. They wore nothing but the Arab shirts,\\nconfined at the waist by leathern belts.\\nI advanced to the gap left in the fence, and at once alighted\\nfrom my horse. The chief greeted me after his fashion by alter-\\nnately touching first my hand and then his own forehead, as if\\nhe were conveying the virtue of the touch like a spark of elec-\\ntricity. Presently I found myself seated upon a sheep-skin,\\nwhich was spread for me under the sacred shade of Arabian\\ncanvass. The tent was of a long, narrow, oblong form, and\\ncontained a quantity of men, women and children, so closely\\nhuddled together, that there was scarcely one of them who was\\nnot in actual contact with his neighbor. The moment I had\\ntaken my seat, the chief repeated his salutations in the most en-\\nthusiastic manner, and then the people having gathered densely\\nabout me, got hold of my unresisting hand, and passed it round\\nlike a claret jug for the benefit of everybody. The women soon\\nbrought me a wooden bowl full of buttermilk, and welcome in-\\ndeed came the gift to my hungry and thirsty soul.\\nAfter some time my party, as I had expected, came up, and\\nwhen poor Dthemetri saw me on my sheep-skin, the life and\\nsoul of this ragamuffin party, he was so astounded that he even\\nfailed to check his cry of horror he plainly thought that now,\\nat last, the Lord had delivered me (interpreter and all) into the\\nhands of the lowest Philistines.\\nMysseri carried a tobacco pouch slung at his belt, and as soon\\nas its contents were known, the whole population of the tent be-\\ngan begging like spaniels for bits of the beloved weed. I con-\\ncluded, from the abject manner of those people, that they could\\nnot possibly be thorough-bred Bedouins, and I saw too, that they\\nmust be in the very last stage of misery, for poor indeed is the\\nman in these climes, who cannot command a pipeful of tobacco.\\nI began to think that I had fallen amongst thorough savages,\\nand it seemed likely enough that they would gain their very first\\nknowledge of civilisation by ravishing and studying the con-", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0131.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "112\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XIV.\\ntents of my dearest portmanteaus, but still my impression was\\nthat they would hardly venture upon such an attempt I observ-\\ned, indeed, that they did not offer me the bread and salt, which\\nI had understood to be the pledges of peace amongst wandering\\ntribes, but I fancied that they refrained from this act of hospi-\\ntality, not in consequence of any hostile determination, but in\\norder that the notion of robbing me might remain for the present-\\nan open question. I afterwards found that the poor fellows\\nhad no bread to offer. They were literally out at grass it is\\ntrue that they had a scanty supply of milk from goats, but they\\nwere living almost entirely upon certain grass stems, which\\nwere just in season at that time of the year. These, if not\\nhighly nourishing, are pleasant enough to the taste, and their\\nacid juices came gratefully to thirsty lips.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0132.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XV.]\\nPASSAGE OF THE JORDAN.\\n113\\nCHAPTER XV.\\nPassage of the Jordan.\\nAnd now Dthemetri began to enter into a negotiation with my\\nhosts for a passage over the river. I never interfered with my\\nworthy Dragoman upon these occasions, because from my entire\\nignorance of the Arabic, I should have been quite unable to\\nexercise any real control over his words, and it would have\\nbeen silly to break the stream of his eloquence to no purpose.\\nI have reason to fear, however, that he lied transcendantly, and\\nespecially in representing me as the bosom friend of Ibrahim\\nPasha. The mention of that name produced immense agitation\\nand excitement, and the Sheik explained to Dthemetri the\\ngrounds of the infinite respect which he and his tribe entertained\\nfor the Pasha. A few weeks before Ibrahim had craftily sent\\na body of troops across the Jordan. The force went warily\\nround to the foot of the mountains on the East, so as to cut off\\nthe retreat of this tribe, and then surrounded them as they lay\\nencamped in the vale their camels, and indeed all their\\npossessions worth taking, were carried off by the soldiery, and\\nmoreover the then Sheik, together with every tenth man of the\\ntribe, was brought out and shot. You would think that this\\nconduct on the part of the Pasha might not procure for his\\nfriend 5 a very gracious reception amongst the people whom\\nhe had thus despoiled and decimated, but the Asiatic seems to\\nbe animated with a feeling of profound respect, almost border-\\ning upon affection, for all who have done him any bold and\\nviolent wrong, and there is always too, so much of vague and\\nundefined apprehension mixed up with his really well-founded\\nalarms, that I can see no limit to the yielding and bending of\\nhis mind when it is worked upon by the idea of power.\\nAfter some discussion the Arabs agreed, as I thought, to con-\\n9", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0133.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "114\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XV.\\nduct me to a ford, and we moved on towards the river, followed\\nby seventeen of the most able-bodied of the tribe, under the\\nguidance of several grey-bearded elders, and Sheik Ali Djoub-\\nran at the head of the whole detachment. Upon leaving the\\nencampment a sort of ceremony was performed, for the purpose,\\nit seemed, of ensuring, if possible, a happy result for the under-\\ntaking. There was an uplifting of arms, and a repeating of\\nwords, that sounded like formulae, but there were no prostra-\\ntions, and I did not understand that the ceremony was of a re-\\nligious character. The tented Arabs are looked upon as very\\nbad Mahometans.\\nWe arrived upon the banks of the river not at a ford, but at\\na deep and rapid part of the stream, and I now understood that\\nit was the plan of these men, if they helped me at all, to trans-\\nport me across the river by some species of raft. But a reac-\\ntion had taken place in the opinions of many, and a violent dis-\\npute arose, upon a motion which seemed to have been made by\\nsome honorable member, with a view to robbery. The fellows\\nall gathered together in circle, at a little distance from my party,\\nand there disputed with great vehemence and fury, for nearly\\ntwo hours. I can t give a correct report of the debate, for it\\nwas held in a barbarous dialect of the Arabic, unknown to my\\nDragoman. I recollect, I sincerely felt at the time that the\\narguments in favor of robbing me must have been almost un-\\nanswerable, and I gave great credit to the speakers on my side\\nfor the ingenuity and sophistry which they must have shown in\\nmaintaining the fight so well.\\nDuring the discussion, I remained lying in front of my bag-\\ngage, which had all been taken from the pack-saddles, and\\nplaced upon the ground. I was so languid from want of food,\\nthat I had scarcely animation enough to feel as deeply inter-\\nested as you would suppose, in the result of the discussion. I\\nthought, however, that the pleasantest toys to play with, during\\nthis interval, were my pistols, and now and then, when I list-\\nlessly visited my loaded barrels with the swivel ramrods, or\\ndrew a sweet, musical click from my English firelocks, it\\nseemed to me that I exercised a slight and gentle influence on\\nthe debate. Thanks to Ibrahim Pasha s terrible visitation, the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0134.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XV.]\\nPASSAGE OF THE JORDAN.\\n115\\nmen of the tribe were wholly unarmed, and my advantage in\\nthis respect might have counter-balanced in some measure the\\nsuperiority of numbers.\\nMysseri (not interpreting in Arabic) had no duty to perform,\\nand he seemed to be faint and listless as myself. Shereef\\nlooked perfectly resigned to any fate. But Dthemetri (faithful\\nterrier was bristling with zeal and watchfulness he could\\nnot understand the debate, which indeed was carried on at a\\ndistance too great to be easily heard, even if the language had\\nbeen familiar but he was always on the alert, and now and\\nthen conferring with men who had straggled out of the assembly\\nat last he found an opportunity of making a proposal, which at\\nonce produced immense sensation he offered, on my behalf,\\nthat if the tribe should bear themselves loyally towards me, and\\ntake my party and my baggage in safety to the other bank of\\nthe river, I should give them a teskeri, or written certificate\\nof their good conduct, which might avail them hereafter in the\\nhour of their direst need. This proposal was received, and in-\\nstantly accepted by all the men of the tribe there present, with\\nthe utmost enthusiasm. I was to give the men, too, a bak-\\nsheish, that is, a present of money, which is usually made\\nupon the conclusion of any sort of treaty but, although the\\npeople of the tribe were so miserably poor, they seemed to look\\nupon the pecuniary part of the arrangement as a matter quite\\ntrivial in comparison with the teskeri. Indeed the sum\\nwhich Dthemetri promised them was extremely small, and not\\nthe slightest attempt was made to extort any further reward.\\nThe Council now broke up, and most of the men rushed madly\\ntowards me, and overwhelmed me with vehement gratulations\\nthey caressed my boots with much affection, and my hands\\nwere severely kissed.\\nThe Arabs now went to work in right earnest to effect the\\npassage of the river. They had brought with them a great\\nnumber of the skins which they use for carrying water in the\\ndesert these they filled with air, E*nd fastened several of them\\nto small boughs which they cut from the banks of the river. In\\nthis way they constructed a raft not more than about four feet\\nsquare, but rendered buoyant by the inflated skins which sup-", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0135.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "116\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xv.\\nported it. On this a portion of my baggage was placed, and\\nwas firmly tied to it by the cords used on my pack-saddles.\\nThe little raft, with its weighty cargo, was then gently lifted\\ninto the water, and I had the satisfaction to see that it floated well.\\nTwelve of the Arabs now stripped, and tied inflated skins to\\ntheir loins six of the men went down into the river, got in\\nfront of the little raft, and pulled it off a few feet from the bank.\\nThe other six then dashed into the stream with loud shouts,\\nand swam along after the raft, pushing it from behind. Off\\nwent the craft in capital style at first, for the stream was easy\\non the eastern side, but I saw that the tug was to come, for the\\nmain torrent swept round in a bend near the western banks of\\nthe river.\\nThe old men with their long grey grisly beards stood shout-\\ning and cheering, praying and commanding. At length the\\nraft entered upon the difficult part of its course the whirling\\nstream seized and twisted it about, and then bore it rapidly\\ndownwards the swimming men flagged, and seemed to be beat\\nin the struggle. But now the old men on the bank, with their\\nrigid arms uplifted straight, sent forth a cry and a shout that\\ntore the wide air into tatters, and then to make their urging yet\\nmore strong, they shrieked out the dreadful syllables, brahim\\nPasha The swimmers, one moment before so blown, and so\\nweary, found lungs to answer the cry, and shouting back the\\nname of their great destroyer, they dashed on through the tor-\\nrent and bore the raft in safety to the western bank.\\nAfterwards the swimmers returned with the raft, and attached\\nto it the rest of my baggage. I took my seat upon the top of the\\ncargo, and the raft thus laden, passed the river in the same way\\nand with the same struggle as before. The skins, however, not\\nbeing perfectly air-tight, had lost a great part of their buoyan-\\ncy, so that I, as well as the luggage that passed on this last voy-\\nage, got wet in the waters of Jordan. The raft could not be\\ntrusted for another trip, and the rest of my party passed the river\\nin a different, and (for them*) much safer way. Inflated skins\\nwere fastened to their loins, and thus supported, they were tug-\\nged across by Arabs swimming on either side of them. The\\nhorses and mules were thrown into the water, and forced to\\nswim over the poor beasts had a hard struggle for their lives", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0136.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "chap, xv.] PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN.\\n117\\nin that swift stream, and I thought that one of the horses would\\nhave been drowned, for he was too weak to gain a footing on\\nthe western bank, and the stream bore him down. At last,\\nhowever, he swam back to the side from which he had come.\\nBefoi*e dark all had passed the river except this one horse and\\nold Shereef. He, poor fellow, was shivering on the eastern\\nbank, for his dread of the passage was so great that he delayed\\nit as long as he could, and at last it became so dark that he was\\nobliged to wait till the morning.\\nI lay that night on the banks of the river, and at a little dis-\\ntance from me the Arabs made a fire, round which they sat in a\\ncircle. They were made most savagely happy by the tobacco\\nwith which I supplied them, and they had determined to make\\nthe whole night one smoking festival. The poor fellows had only\\none broken bowl, without any tube at all, but this morsel of a\\npipe they passed round from one to the other, allowing to each\\na fixed number of whiffs. In that way they passed the whole\\nnight.\\nThe next morning old Shereef was brought across. It was a\\nstrange sight to see this solemn old Mussulman with his shaven\\nhead, and his sacred beard, sprawling and puffing upon the sur-\\nface of the water. When at last he reached the bank, the peo-\\nple told him that by his baptism in Jordan he had surely become\\na mere Christian. Poor Shereef! the holy man the descen-\\ndant of the Prophet he was sadly hurt by the taunt, and the\\nmore so as he seemed to feel there was some foundation for it,\\nand that he really may have absorbed some Christian errors.\\nWhen all was ready for departure, I wrote the Teskeri 5\\nin French, and delivered it to Sheik Ali Djoubran, together\\nwith the promised baksheish he was exceedingly grateful,\\nand I parted upon very good terms from this ragged tribe.\\nIn two or three hours I gained Rihah, a village which is said\\nto occupy the site of ancient Jericho. There was one building\\nthere which I observed with some emotion, for although it may\\nnot have been actually standing in the days of Jericho, it con-\\ntained at this day a most interesting collection of modern\\nloaves.\\nSome hours after sun-set I reached the Convent of Santa\\nSaba, and there remained for the night.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0137.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "118\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvi.\\nCHAPTER XVI.\\nTerra Santa.\\nThe enthusiasm that had glowed, or seemed to glow, within me\\nfor one blessed moment when I knelt by the shrine of the\\nBlessed Virgin at Nazareth, was not rekindled at Jerusalem.\\nIn the stead of the solemn gloom, and the deep stillness that of\\nright belonged to the Holy City, there was the hum and the\\nbustle of active life. It was the height of the season. The\\nEaster ceremonies drew near the Pilgrims were flocking in\\nfrom all quarters, and although their objects were partly at\\nleast of a religious character, yet their arrivals brought as\\nmuch stir and liveliness to the city, as if they had come up to\\nmarry their daughters.\\nThe votaries who every year crowd to the Holy Sepulchre\\nare chiefly of the Greek and Armenian Churches. They are\\nnot drawn into Palestine by a mere longing to stand upon the\\nground trodden by our Saviour, but rather they perform the\\npilgrimage as a plain duty, which is strongly inculcated by their\\nreligion. A very great proportion of those who belong to the\\nGreek Church, contrive at some time or other in the course of\\ntheir lives, to achieve the enterprise. Many, in their infancy\\nand childhood, are brought to the holy sites by their parents,\\nbut those who have not had this advantage will often make it\\nthe main object of their lives to save money enough for this holy\\nundertaking.\\nThe Pilgrims begin to arrive in Palestine some weeks before\\nthe Easter festival of the Greek Church they come from\\nEgypt from all parts of Syria from Armenia and Asia\\nMinor from Stamboul, from Roumelia, from the provinces of\\nthe Danube, and from all the Russias. Most of these people\\nbring with them some articles of merchandize, but I myself be-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0138.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n119\\nlieve (notwithstanding the common taunt against pilgrims), that\\nthey do this rather as a mode of paying the expenses of their\\njourney, than from a spirit of mercenary speculation they\\ngenerally travel in families, for the women are of course more\\nardent than their husbands in undertaking these pious enter-\\nprises, and they take care to bring with them all their children,\\nhowever young, for the efficacy of the rites does not depend\\nupon the age of the votary, so that people whose careful\\nmothers have obtained for them the benefit of the pilgrimage in\\nearly life, are saved from the expense and trouble of under-\\ntaking the journey at a later age. The superior veneration so\\noften excited by objects that are distant and unknown, shows\\nnot perhaps the wrongheadedness of a man, but rather the\\ntranscendant power of his Imagination however this may\\nbe, and whether it is by mere obstinacy that they poke their\\nway through intervening distance, or whether they come\\nby the winged strength of Fancy, quite certainly the Pilgrims\\nwho flock to Palestine from the most remote homes are the peo-\\nple most eager in the enterprise, and in number, too, they bear a\\nvery high proportion to the whole mass.\\nThe great bulk of the Pilgrims make their way by sea to the\\nport of Jaffa. A number of families will charter a vessel\\namongst them, all bringing their own provisions, which are of the\\nsimplest and cheapest kind. On board every vessel thus\\nfreighted, there is, I believe, a Priest who helps the people in\\ntheir religious exercises, and tries (and fails) to maintain some-\\nthing like order and harmony. The vessels employed in this\\nservice are usually Greek brigs or brigantines, and schooners,\\nand the number of passengers stowed in them is almost always\\nhorribly excessive. The voyages are sadly protracted, not\\nonly by the land-seeking, storm-flying habits of the Greek sea-\\nmen, but also by their endless schemes and speculations, which\\nare for ever tempting them to touch at the nearest port. The\\nvoyage, too, must be made in winter, in order that Jerusalem\\nmay be reached some weeks before the Greek Easter, and thus\\nby the time they attain to the holy shrines, the Pilgrims have\\nreally and truly undergone a very respectable quantity of suf-\\nfering. I once saw one of these pious cargoes put ashore on", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0139.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "120\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xvi.\\nthe coast of Cyprus, where they had touched for the purpose of\\nvisiting (not Paphos, but) some Christian sanctuary. I never\\nsaw (no, never even in the most horridly stuffy ball room)\\nsuch a discomfortable collection of human beings. Long hud-\\ndled together in a pitching and rolling prison fed on beans\\nexposed to some real danger, and to terrors without end, they\\nhad been tumbled about for many wintry weeks in the chopping\\nseas of the Mediterranean as soon as they landed, they stood\\nupon the beach and chaunted a hymn of thanks the chaunt\\nwas morne and doleful, but really the poor people were looking so\\nmiserable that one could not fairly expect from them any lively\\noutpouring of gratitnde.\\nWhen the Pilgrims have landed at Jaffa they hire camels,\\nhorses, mules or donkeys, and make their way as well as they\\ncan to the Holy City. The space fronting the Church of the\\nHoly Sepulchre soon becomes a kind of Bazaar, or rather, per-\\nhaps, reminds you of an English Fair. On this spot the Pil-\\ngrims display their merchandize, and there too the trading resi-\\ndents of the place offer their goods for sale. I have never, I\\nthink, seen elsewhere in Asia, so much commercial animation\\nas upon this square of ground by the Church door the money\\nchangers seemed to be almost as brisk and lively as if they\\nhad been within the Temple.\\nWhen I entered the Church I found a Babel of worshippers.\\nGreek, Roman, and Armenian priests were performing their\\ndifferent rites in various nooks and corners, and crowds of dis-\\nciples were rushing about in all directions, -some laughing\\nand talking,\u00e2\u0080\u0094 some begging, but most of them going about in a\\nregular and methodical way to kiss the sanctified spots, and\\nspeak the appointed syllables, and lay down the accustomed\\ncoin. If this kissing of the shrines had seemed as though it\\nwere done at the bidding of Enthusiasm, or of any poor senti-\\nment, even feebly approaching to it, the sight would have been\\nless odd to English eyes but as it was, I stared to see grown\\nmen thus steadily and carefully embracing the sticks and the\\nstones not from love or from zeal (else God forbid that I should\\nhave stared), but from a calm sense of duty they seemed to", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0140.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n121\\nbe not working out, but transacting the great business of Sal-\\nvation.\\nDthemetri, however, who generally came with me when I\\nwent out, in order to do duty as interpreter, really had in him\\nsome enthusiasm he was a zealous and almost fanatical mem-\\nber of the Greek Church, and had long since performed the\\npilgrimage, so now great indeed was the pride and delight with\\nwhich he guided me from one holy spot to another. Every\\nnow and then, when he came to an unoccupied shrine, he fell\\ndown on his knees and performed devotion he was almost dis-\\ntracted by the temptations that surrounded him there were so\\nmany stones absolutely requiring to be kissed, that he rushed\\nabout happily puzzled and sweetly teased, like Jack among\\nthe maidens.\\nA Protestant, familiar with the Holy Scriptures, but ignorant\\nof tradition and the geography of Modern Jerusalem, finds\\nhimself a good deal mazed when he first looks for the sacred\\nsites. The Holy Sepulchre is not in a field without the walls,\\nbut in the midst, and in the best part of the town under the roof\\nof the great Church which I have been talking about it is a\\nhandsome tomb of oblong form, partly subterranean and partly\\nabove ground and closed in on all sides, except the one by\\nwhich it is entered. You descend into the interior by a few\\nsteps, and there find an altar with burning tapers. This is the\\nspot which is held in greater sanctity than any other at Jerusa-\\nlem. When you have seen enough of it, you feel perhaps\\nweary of the busy crowd and inclined for a gallop you ask\\nyour Dragoman whether there will be time before sunset to\\nprocure horses and take a ride to Mount Calvary. Mount Cal-\\nvary, Signor eccolo it is up stairs on the first floor. In\\neffect you ascend, if I remember rightly, just thirteen steps,\\nand then you are shown the now golden sockets in which the\\ncrosses of our Lord and the two thieves were fixed. All this\\nis startling, but the truth is, that the city having gathered round\\nthe Sepulchre, which is the main point of interest, has crept\\nnorthward, and thus in a great measure are occasioned the\\nmany geographical surprises which puzzle the Bible Chris-\\ntian.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0141.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "122\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvi.\\nThe church of the Holy Sepulchre comprises very compendi-\\nously almost all the spots associated with the closing career of\\nour Lord. Just there, on your right, he stood and wept; by the\\npillar on your left he was scourged on the spot just before you\\nhe was crowned with the crown of thorns up there he was cru-\\ncified, and down here he was buried. A locality is assigned to every\\nthe minutest event connected with the recorded history of our Sa-\\nviour even the spot where the cock crew, when Peter denied\\nhis Master, is ascertained and surrounded by the walls of an\\nArmenian convent. Many Protestants are wont to treat these\\ntraditions contemptuously, and those who distinguish themselves\\nfrom their brethren by the appellation of Bible Christians,\\nare almost fierce in their denunciation of these supposed errors.\\nIt is admitted, I believe, by everybody, that the formal sanc-\\ntification of these spots was the act of the Empress Helena,\\nthe mother of Constantine, but I think it is fair to suppose that\\nshe was guided by a careful regard to the then prevailing tra-\\nditions. Now the nature of the ground upon which Jerusalem\\nstands, is such that the localities belonging to the events there\\nenacted might have been more easily and permanently ascer-\\ntained by tradition than those of any city that I know of. Jeru-\\nsalem, whether ancient or modern, was built upon and surrounded\\nby sharp, salient rocks, intersected by deep ravines. Up to the\\ntime of the siege, Mount Calvary, of course, must have been\\nwell enough known to the people of Jerusalem the destruction\\nof the mere buildings could not have obliterated from any man s\\nmemory the names of those steep rocks and narrow ravines in\\nthe midst of which the city had stood. It seems to me, therefore,\\nhighly probable that in fixing the site of Calvary, the Empress\\nwas rightly guided. Recollect, too, that the voice of tradition at\\nJerusalem is quite unanimous, and that Romans, Greeks, Arme-\\nnians, and Jews, all hating each other sincerely, concur in\\nassigning the same localities to the events told in the Gospel. I\\nconcede, however, that the attempt of the Empress to ascertain\\nthe sites of the minor events cannot be safely relied upon. With\\nrespect, for instance, to the certainty of the spot where the cock\\ncrew, I am far from being convinced.\\nSupposing that the Empress acted arbitrarily in fixing the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0142.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n123\\nholy sites, it would seem that she followed the Gospel of St.\\nJohn, and that the geography sanctioned by her can be more\\neasily reconciled with that history than with the accounts of the\\nother Evangelists.\\nThe authority exercised by the Mussulman Government in re-\\nlation to the Holy sites, is in one view somewhat humbling to the\\nChristians, for it is almost as an arbitrator between the contend-\\ning sects (this always, of course, for the sake of pecuniary\\nadvantage), that the Mussulman lends his contemptuous aid he\\nnot only grants but enforces toleration. All persons, of what-\\never religion, are allowed to go as they will into every part of\\nthe church of the Holy Sepulchre, but in order to prevent inde-\\ncent contests, and also from motives arising out of money pay-\\nments, the Turkish Government assigns the peculiar care of\\neach sacred spot to one of the ecclesiastic bodies. Since this\\nguardianship carries with it the receipt of the coins which the\\npilgrims leave upon the shrines, it is strenuously fought for by\\nall the rival Churches, and the artifices of intrigue are busily\\nexerted at Stamboul in order to procure the issue or revocation\\nof the Firmans, by which the coveted privilege is granted. In\\nthis strife the Greek Church has of late years signally triumph-\\ned, and the most famous of the shrines are committed to the care\\nof their priesthood. They possess the golden socket in which\\nstood the cross of our Lord, whilst the Latins are obliged to con-\\ntent themselves with the apertures in which were inserted the\\ncrosses of the two thieves they are naturally discontented with\\nthat poor privilege, and sorrowfully look back to the days of\\ntheir former glory the days when Napoleon was Emperor, and\\nSeb astiani was minister at the Porte. It seems that the citi-\\nzen Sultan, old Louis Philippe,, has done very little indeed for\\nHoly Church in Palestine.\\nAlthough the Pilgrims perform their devotions at the several\\nshrines with so little apparent enthusiasm, they are driven to\\nthe verge of madness by the miracle which is displayed to them\\non Easter Saturday. Then it is that v the heaven-sent fire issues\\nfrom the Holy Sepulchre. The Pilgrims all assemble in the\\ngreat Church, and already, long before the wonder is worked,\\nthey are wrought by anticipation of God s sign, as well as by", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0143.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "124\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVI.\\ntheir struggles for room and breathing space, to a most frightful\\nstate of excitement. At length the Chief Priest of the Greeks,\\naccompanied (of all people in the world) by the Turkish Gov-\\nernor, enters the tomb. After this there is a long pause, and\\nthen, suddenly, from out of the small apertures on either side of\\nthe Sepulchre, there issue long, shining flames. The pilgrims\\nnow rush forward, madly struggling to light their tapers at the\\nholy fire. This is the dangerous moment, and many lives are\\noften lost.\\nThe year before that of my going to Jerusalem, Ibrahim Pa-\\nsha, from some whim or motive of policy, chose to witness the\\nmiracle. The vast Church was of course thronged, as it always\\nis on that awful day. It seems that the appearance of the fire\\nwas delayed for a very long time, and that the growing frenzy\\nof the people was heightened by suspense. Many, too, had\\nalready sunk under the effect of the heat and the stifling atmo-\\nsphere, when at last the fire flashed from the Sepulchre. Then\\na terrible stfuggle ensued many sunk and were crushed.\\nIbrahim had taken his station in one of the galleries, but now,\\nfeeling perhaps his brave blood warmed by the sight and sound\\nof such strife, he took upon himself to quiet the people by his\\npersonal presence, and descended into the body of the Church\\nwith only a few guards he had forced his way into the midst\\nof the dense crowd, when unhappily he fainted away his guards\\nshrieked out, and the event instantly became known. A body of\\nsoldiers recklessly forced their way through the crowd, trampling\\nover every obstacle that they might save the life of their gene-\\nral. Nearly two hundred people were killed in the struggle.\\nThe following year, however, the Government took better\\nmeasures for the prevention of^hese calamities. I was not pre-\\nsent at the ceremony, having gone away from Jerusalem some\\ntime before, but I afterwards returned into Palestine, and I then\\nlearned that the day had passed off without any disturbance of\\na fatal kind. It is, however, almost too much to expect that so\\nmany ministers of peace can assemble without finding some\\noccasion for strife, and in that year a tribe of wild Bedouins\\nbecame the subject of discord these men, it seems, led an Arab\\nlife in some of the desert tracts bordering on the neighborhood of", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0144.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n125\\nJerusalem, but were not connected with any of the great ruling\\ntribes. Some whim or notion of policy had induced them to\\nembrace Christianity, but they were grossly ignorant of the\\nrudiments of their adopted faith, and having no priests with them\\nin their desert, they had as little knowledge of religious cere-\\nmonies as of Religion itself they were not even capable of\\nconducting themselves in a place of worship with ordinary\\ndecorum, but would interrupt the service with scandalous cries\\nand warlike shouts. Such is the account the Latins give of\\nthem, but I have never heard the other side of the question.\\nThese wild fellows, notwithstanding their entire ignorance of all\\nreligion, are yet claimed by the Greeks, not only as proselytes\\nwho have embraced Christianity generally, but as converts to\\nthe particular doctrines and practice of their church. The\\npeople thus alleged to have concurred in the great schism of the\\nEastern Empire, are never, I believe, within the walls of a\\nchurch, or even of any building at all, except upon this occa-\\nsion of Easter, and as they then never fail to find ^row of some\\nkind going on by the side of the Sepulchre, they fancy, it seems,\\nthat the ceremonies there enacted are funeral games, of a mar-\\ntial character, held in honor of a deceased chieftain, and that a\\nChristian festival is a peculiar kind of battle fought between\\nwalls and without cavalry. It does not appear, however, that\\nthese men are guilty of any ferocious acts, or that they attempt\\nto commit depredations. The charge against them is merely,\\nthat by their way of applauding the performance by their hor-\\nrible cries and frightful gestures, they destroy the solemnity of\\ndivine service, and upon this ground the Franciscans obtained\\na firman for the exclusion of such tumultuous worshippers.\\nThe Greeks, however, did not ^hoose to lose the aid of their\\nwild converts, merely because they were a little backward in\\ntheir religious education, and they therefore persuaded them to\\ndefy the firman by entering the city en masse, and overawing\\ntheir enemies. The Franciscans, as well as the Government\\nauthorities, were obliged to give way, and the Arabs triumph-\\nantly marched into the church. The festival, however, must\\nhave seemed to them rather flat, for although there may have\\nbeen some casualties in the way of black eyes, and noses", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0145.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "126\\nbloody, and women missing, there was no return of\\nkilled.\\nFormerly the Latin Catholics concurred in acknowledging\\n(but not I hope in working) the annual miracle of the heavenly\\nfire, but they have for many years withdrawn their countenance\\nfrom this exhibition, and they now repudiate it as a trick of the\\nGreek church. Thus, of course, the violence of feeling with\\nwhich the rival churches meet at the Holy Sepulchre, on Easter\\nSaturday, is greatly increased, and a disturbance of some kind is\\ncertain. In the year I speak of, though no lives were lost, there\\nwas, as it seems, a tough struggle in the church. I was amused\\nat hearing of a taunt that was thrown that day upon an English\\ntraveller he had taken his station in a convenient part of the\\nchurch, and was no doubt displaying that peculiar air of serenity\\nand gratification with which an English gentleman usually\\nlooks on at a row, when one of the Franciscans came by, all\\nreeking from the fight, and was so disgusted at the coolness and\\nplacid contentment of the Englishman (who was a guest at the\\nconvent, that he forgot his monkish humility as well as the duties\\nof hospitality, and plainly said, You sleep under our roof you\\neat our bread\u00e2\u0080\u0094 you drink our wine, and then when Easter Satur-\\nday comes you don t fight for us\\nYet these rival churches go on quietly enough till their blood\\nis up. The terms on which they live remind one of the peculiar\\nrelation subsisting at Cambridge between town and gown.\\nThese contests and disturbances certainly do not originate\\nwith the lay pilgrims, the great body of whom are, as I believe,\\nquiet and inoffensive people it is true, however, that their pious\\nenterprise is believed by them to operate as a counterpoise for a\\nmultitude of sins, whether past or future, and perhaps they\\nexert themselves in after life to restore the balance of good and\\nevil. The Turks have a maxim, which, like most cynical\\napothegms carries with it the buzzing trumpet of falsehood, as\\nwell as the small, fine sting of truth. If your friend has\\nmade the pilgrimage once, distrust him if he has made the pil-\\ngrimage twice, cut him dead The caution is said to be as\\napplicable to the visitants of Jerusalem as to those of Mecca, but", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0146.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n127\\nI cannot help believing that the frailties of all the Hadjis,* whether\\nChristian or Mahometan, are greatly exaggerated. I certainly\\nregarded the pilgrims to Palestine as a well-disposed, orderly\\nbody of people, not strongly enthusiastic, but desirous to comply\\nwith the ordinances of their religion, and to attain the great end\\nof salvation as quietly and economically as possible.\\nWhen the solemnities of Easter are concluded, the pilgrims\\nmove off in a body to complete their good work, by visiting the\\nsacred scenes in the neighborhood of Jerusalem, including the\\nWilderness of John the Baptist, Bethlehem, and above ail the\\nJordan, for to bathe in those sacred waters is one of the chief\\nobjects of the expedition. All the pilgrims men, women, and\\nchildren, are submerged, en chemise, and the saturated linen is\\ncarefully wrapped up, and preserved as a burial dress that shall\\ninure for salvation in the realms of death.\\nI saw the burial of a pilgrim; he was a Greek miserably\\npoor and very old he had just crawled into the Holy City, and\\nhad reached at once the goal of his pious journey and the end of\\nhis sufferings upon earth there was no coffin nor wrapper, and\\nas I looked full upon the face of the dead, I saw how deeply it\\nwas rutted with the ruts of age and misery. The priest, strong\\nand portly, fresh, fat, and alive with the life of the animal king-\\ndom unpaid, or ill paid for his work, would scarcely deign to\\nmutter out his forms, but hurried over the words with shocking\\nhaste presently he called out impatiently Yalla Goor\\n(Come look sharp and then the dead Greek was seized his\\nlimbs yielded inertly to the rude men that handled them, and\\ndown he went into his grave, so roughly bundled in that his neck\\nwas twisted by the fall, so twisted, that if the sharp malady of\\nlife were still upon him the old man would have shrieked and\\ngroaned, and the lines of his face would have quivered w r ith\\npain the lines of his face were not moved, and the old man lay\\nstill and heedless so well cured of that tedious life-ache, that\\nnothing could hurt him now. His clay was itself again cool,\\nfirm, and tough. The pilgrim had found great rest I threw\\nthe accustomed handful of the holy soil upon his patient face,\\nHadji a pilgrim.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0147.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "128\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvi.\\nand then, and in less than a minute, the earth closed coldly\\nround him.\\nI did not say Alas (nobody ever does that I know of,\\nthough the word is so frequently written). I thought the old\\nman had got rather well out of the scrape of being alive and poor.\\nThe destruction of the mere buildings in such a place as Jeru-\\nsalem would not involve the permanent dispersion of the inhabit-\\nants, for the rocky neighborhood in which the town is situate\\nabounds in caves, which would give an easy refuge to the peo-\\nple until they gained an opportunity of rebuilding their dwell-\\nings. Therefore I could not help looking upon the Jews of\\nJerusalem, as being in some sort the representatives, if not the\\nactual descendants, of the rascals who crucified our Saviour.\\nSupposing this to be the case, I felt that there would be some\\ninterest in knowing how the events of the Gospel History were\\nregarded by the Israelites of modern Jerusalem. The result of\\nmy inquiry upon this subject, was, so far as it went, entirely\\nfavorable to the truth of Christianity. I understood that\\nthe performance of the miracles was not doubted by any of the\\nJews in the place all of them concurred in attributing the\\nworks of our Lord to the influence of magic, but they were\\ndivided as to the species of enchantment from which the power\\nproceeded the great mass of the Jewish people believed, I\\nfancy, that the miracles had been wrought by aid of the powers\\nof darkness, but many, and those the more enlightened, would\\ncall Jesus the good Magician. To Europeans repudiating\\nthe notion of all magic, good or bad, the opinion of the Jews as\\nto the agency by which the miracles were worked, is a matter\\nof no importance, but the circumstance of their admitting that\\nthose miracles -were in fact performed, is certainly curious, and\\nperhaps not quite immaterial.\\nIf you stay in the Holy City long enough to fall into anything\\nlike regular habits of amusement and occupation, and to become\\nin short for the time a man about town at Jerusalem,, you\\nwill necessarily lose the enthusiasm which you may have felt\\nwhen you trod the sacred soil for the first time, and it will then\\nseem almost strange to, you to find yourself so thoroughly sur-\\nrounded in all your daily pursuits by the signs and sounds of re-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0148.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n129\\nligion. Your Hotel is a monastery your rooms are cells the\\nlandlord is a stately abbot and the waiters are hooded monks.\\nIf you walk out of the town you find yourself on the Mount of\\nOlives, or in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, or on the Hill of Evil\\nCounsel. If you mount your horse and extend your rambles,\\nyou will be guided to the wilderness of St. John, or the birth-\\nplace of our Saviour. Your club is the great Church of the\\nHoly Sepulchre, where everybody meets everybody every day.\\nIf you lounge through the town, your Bond Street is the Via\\nDolorosa, and the object of your hopeless affections is some\\nmaid or matron all forlorn, and sadly shrouded in her pilgrim s\\nrobe. If you would hear music, it must be the chaunting of\\nfriars if you look at pictures, you see Virgins with mis-fore-\\nshortened arms, or devils out of drawing, or angels tumbling up\\nthe skies in impious perspective. If you make any purchases\\nyou must go again to the church doors, and when you inquire for\\nthe manufactures of the place, you find that they consist of\\ndouble-blessed beads and sanctified shells. These last are the\\nfavorite tokens which the pilgrims carry off with them; the\\nshell is graven or rather scratched on the white side with a rude\\ndrawing of the Blessed Virgin, or of the Crucifixion, or some\\nother scriptural subject and having passed this stage, it goes\\ninto the hands of a priest by him it is subjected to some pro-\\ncess for rendering it efficacious against the schemes of our ghostly\\nenemy the manufacture is then complete, and deemed to be fit\\nfor use.\\nThe village of Bethlehem lies prettily couched on the slope of\\na hill. The sanctuary is a subterranean grotto, and is committed\\nto the joint-guardianship of the Romans, Greeks, and Arme-\\nnians, who vie with each other in adorning it. Beneath an altar\\ngorgeously decorated, and lit with everlasting fires, there stands\\nthe low slab of stone which marks the holy site of the Nativity\\nand near to this is a hollow scooped out of the living rock. Here\\nthe infant Jesus was laid. Near the spot of the Nativity is the\\nrock against which the Blessed Virgin was leaning when she\\npresented her babe to the adoring shepherds.\\nMany of those Protestants who are accustomed to despise tra-\\ndition, consider that this sanctuary is altogether unscriptural\\n10", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0149.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "130\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvi.\\nthat a grotto is not a stable, and that mangers are made of wood.\\nIt is perfectly true, however, that the many grottos and caves\\nwhich are found among the rocks of Judea were formerly used\\nfor the reception of cattle they are so used at this day I have\\nmyself seen grottos appropriated to this purpose.\\nYou know what a sad and sombre decorum it is that outward-\\nly reigns through the lands oppressed by Moslem sway. The\\nMahometans make beauty their prisoner, and enforce such a\\nstern and gloomy moraftty, or at all events such a frightfully\\nclose semblance of it, that far and long the wearied traveller\\nmay go without catching one glimpse of outward happiness. By\\na strange chance in these latter days, it happened, that alone of\\nall the places in the land, this Bethlehem, the native village of\\nour Lord, escaped the moral yoke of the Mussulmans, and heard\\nagain, after ages of dull oppression, the cheering clatter of social\\nfreedom and the voices of laughing girls. It was after an insur-\\nrection which had been raised against the authority of Mehemet\\nAli, that Bethlehem was freed from the hateful laws of Asiatic\\ndecorum. The Mussulmans of the village had taken an active\\npart in the movement, and when Ibrahim had quelled it, his\\nwrath was still so hot that he put to death every one of the few\\nMahometans of Bethlehem who had not already fled. The effect\\nproduced upon the Christian inhabitants by the sudden removal\\nof this restraint was immense. The village smiled once more.\\nIt is true that such sweet freedom could not long endure. Even\\nif the population of the place should continue to be entirely\\nChristian, the sad decorum of the Mussulmans, or rather of the\\nAsiatics, would sooner or later be restored by the force of\\nopinion and custom. But for a while the sunshine would last,\\nand when I was at Bethlehem, though long after the flight of the\\nMussulmans, the cloud of Moslem propriety had not yet come\\nback to cast its cold shadow upon life. When you reach that\\ngladsome village, pra3 r Heaven there still may be heard there\\nthe voice of free, innocent girls. It will sound so dearly wel-\\ncome\\nTo a Christian, and thorough-bred Englishman, not even the\\nlicentiousness which generally accompanies it, can compensate\\nfor the oppressiveness of that horrible outward decorum, which", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0150.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVI.]\\nTERRA SANTA.\\n131\\nturns the cities and the palaces of Asia into, deserts and gaols.\\nSo, I say, when you see, and hear them, those romping girls of\\nBethlehem will gladden your very soul. Distant at first, and\\nthen nearer and nearer, the timid flock will gather around you\\nwith their large, burning eyes gravely fixed against yours, so\\nthat they see into your brain, and if you imagine evil against\\nthem, they will know of your ill thought before it is yet well\\nborn, and will fly, and be gone in the moment. But presently\\nif you will only look virtuous enough to prevent alarm, and\\nvicious enough to avoid looking silly, the blithe maidens will\\ndraw nearer and nearer J;o you, and soon there will be one, the\\nbravest of the sisters, who will venture right up to your side,\\nand touch the hem of your coat, in playful defiance of the\\ndanger, and then the rest will follow the daring of their youth-\\nful leader, and gather close round you, and hold a shrill con-\\ntroversy on the wondrous formation that you call a hat, and the\\ncunning of the hands that clothed you with cloth so fine and\\nthen growing more profound in their researches, they will pass\\nfrom the study of your mere dress, to a serious contemplation\\nof your stately height, and your nut-brown hair, and the ruddy\\nglow of your English cheeks. And if they catch a glimpse of\\nyour ungloved fingers, then again will they make the air ring\\nwith their sweet screams of wonder and amazement, as they\\ncompare the fairness of your hand with their warmer tints, and\\neven with the hues of your own sunburnt face; instantly the\\nringleader of the gentle rioters imagines a new sin with tremu-\\nlous boldness she touches then grasps your hand, and smoothes\\nit gently betwixt her own, and pries curiously into its make and\\ncolor, as though it were silk of Damascus, or shawl of Cash-\\nmere. And when they see you even then, still sage and gentle,\\nthe joyous girls will suddenly, and screamingly, and all at once,\\nexplain to each other that you are surely quite harmless, and\\ninnocent a lion that makes no spring a bear that never hugs,\\nand upon this faith, one after the other, they will take your\\npassive hand, and strive to explain it, and make it a theme and\\na controversy. But the one the fairest, and the sweetest of\\nall, is yet the most timid she shrinks from the daring deeds of\\nher playmates, and seeks shelter behind their sleeves, and strives", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0151.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "132\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvi.\\nto screen her glowing consciousness from the eyes that look upon\\nher; but her laughing sisters will have none of this cowardice\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094they vow that the fair one shall be their complice shall share\\ntheir dangers shall touch the hand of the stranger they\\nseize her small wrist, and drag her forward by force, and at\\nlast, whilst yet she strives to turn away, and to cover up her\\nwhole soul under the folds of downcast eyelids, they vanquish\\nher utmost strength they vanquish your utmost modesty, and\\nmarry her hand to yours. The quick pulse springs from her\\nfingers, and throbs like a whisper upon your listening palm.\\nFor an instant her large, timid eyes are upon you in an instant\\nthey are shrouded again, and there comes a blush so burning,\\nthat the frightened girls stay their shrill laughter, as though\\nthey had played too perilously, and harmed their gentle sister.\\nA moment, and all, with a sudden intelligence, turn away, and\\nfly like deer, yet soon again, like deer they wheel round, and\\nreturn, and stand and gaze upon the danger, until they grow\\nbrave once more.\\nI regret to observe that the removal of the moral restraint\\nimposed by the presence of the Mahometan inhabitants, has led\\nto a certain degree of boisterous, though innocent levity, in the\\nbearing of the Christians, and more especially in the demeanor\\nof those who belong to the younger portion of the female popu-\\nlation, but I feel assured that a more thorough knowledge of the\\nprinciples of their own pure religion, will speedily restore these\\nyoung people to habits of propriety, even more strict than those\\nwhich were imposed upon them by the authority of their Ma-\\nhometan brethren. Bah thus you might chaunt, if you\\nchose but loving the truth, you will not so disown sweet\\nBethlehem\u00e2\u0080\u0094 you will not disown, nor dissemble the right good\\nhearty delight, with which, in the midst of the arid waste, you\\nfound this gushing spring of fresh and joyous girlhood.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0152.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n133\\nCHAPTER XVIL\\nThe Desert.\\nGaza is upon the edge of the Desert, to which it stands in the\\nsame relation as a sea-port to the sea. It is there that you char-\\nter your camels the ships of the Desert and lay in your\\nstores for the voyage.\\nThese preparations kept me in the town for some days dis-\\nliking restraint, I declined making myself the guest of the Gov-\\nernor (as it is usual and proper to do), but took up my quarters\\nat the Caravanserai, or Khan, as they call it in that part of\\nAsia.\\nDthemetri had to make the arrangements for my journey, and\\nin order to arm himself with sufficient authority for doing all\\nthat was required, he found it necessary to put himself in com-\\nmunication with the Governor. The result of this diplomatic\\nintercourse was that the Governor, with his train of attend-\\nants, came to me one day at my Caravanserai, and formally\\ncomplained that Dthemetri had grossly insulted him. I was\\nshocked at this, for the man was always attentive and civil to\\nme, and I was disgusted at the idea of his having been reward-\\ned with insult. Dthemetri was present when the complaint was\\nmade, and I angrily asked him whether it was true that he had\\nreally insulted the Governor, and what the deuce he meant by\\nIt. This I asked, with the full certainty that Dthemetri, as a\\nmatter of course, would deny the charge would swear that a\\nwrong construction had been put upon his words, and that noth-\\ning was further from his thoughts, c. c, after the manner\\nof the parliamentary people, but to my surprise, he very plainly\\nanswered that he certainly had insulted the Governor, and that\\nrather grossly, but, he said, it was quite necessary to do this, in\\norder to strike terror, and inspire respect Terror and", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0153.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "134\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nrespect What on earth do you mean by that nonsense V\\nYes, but without striking terror, and inspiring respect, he\\n(Dthemetri) would never be able to force on the arrangements\\nfor my journey, and Vossignoria would be kept at Gaza for a\\nmonth This would have been awkward, and certainly I\\ncould not deny that poor Dthemetri had succeeded in his odd\\nplan of inspiring respect, for at the very time that this explana-\\ntion was going on in Italian, the Governor seemed more than\\never, and more anxiously disposed to overwhelm me with assur-\\nances of good will, and proffers of his best services. All this\\nkindness, or promise of kindness, I naturally received with\\ncourtesy a courtesy that greatly perturbed Dthemetri, for he\\nevidently feared that my civility would undo all the good that\\nhis insults had achieved.\\nYou will find, I think, that one of the greatest drawbacks to\\nthe pleasure of travelling in Asia, is the being obliged more or\\nless to make your way by bullying. It is true that your own\\nlips are not soiled by the utterance of all the mean words that\\nare spoken for you, and that you don t even know of the sham\\nthreats, and the false promises, and the vain-glorious boasts put\\nforth by your dragoman but now and then there happens some\\nincident of the sort which I have just been mentioning, which\\nforces you to believe, or suspect, that your dragoman is habitu-\\nally fighting your battles for you in a way that you can hardly\\nbear to think of.\\nA Caravanserai is not ill adapted to the purposes for which it\\nis meant it forms the four sides of a large quadrangular court.\\nThe ground floor is used for warehouses, the first floor for guests,\\nand the open court for the temporary reception of the camels,\\nas well as for the loading and unloading of their burthens, and\\nthe transaction of mercantile business generally. The apart-\\nments used for the guests are small cells opening into a corri-\\ndor, which runs round the four sides of the court.\\nWhilst I lay near the opening of my cell, looking down into\\nthe court below, there arrived from the Desert a caravan, that\\nis, a large assemblage of travellers it consisted chiefly of Mol-\\ndavian pilgrims, who, to make their good work even more than\\ncomplete 2 had begun by visiting the shrine of the Virgin in", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0154.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n135\\nEgypt, and were now going on to Jerusalem. They had been\\novertaken in the Desert by a gale of wind, which so drove the\\nsand, and raised up such mountains before them, that their jour-\\nney had been terribly perplexed and obstructed, and their pro-\\nvisions (including water, the most precious of all) had been\\nexhausted long before they reached the end of their toilsome\\nmarch. They were sadly way-worn. The arrival of the\\ncaravan drew many and various groups into the court. There\\nwas the Moldavian pilgrim with his sable dress, and cap of fur,\\nand heavy masses of bushy hair the Turk with his various\\nand brilliant garments the Arab superbly stalking under his\\nstriped blanket, that hung like royalty upon his stately form\\nthe jetty Ethiopian in his slavish frock the sleek, smooth-faced\\nscribe with his comely pelisse, and his silver ink-box stuck in\\nlike a dagger at his girdle. And mingled with these were the\\ncamels some standing some kneeling and being unladen\\nsome twisting round their long necks, and gently stealing the\\nstraw from out of their own pack-saddles.\\nIn a couple of days I was ready to start. The way of pro-\\nviding for the passage of the Desert is this there is an agent\\nin the town who keeps himself in communication with some of\\nthe desert Arabs that are hovering within a day s journey of the\\nplace a party of these upon being guaranteed against seizure,\\nor other ill-treatment at the hands of the Governor, come into\\nthe town bringing with them the number of camels which you\\nrequire, and then they stipulate for a certain sum to take you to\\nthe place of your destination in a given time the agreement\\nwhich they thus enter into, includes a safe-conduct, through their\\ncountry, as well as the hire of the camels. According to the\\ncontract made with me, I was to reach Cairo within ten days\\nfrom the commencement of the journey. I had four camels, one\\nfor my baggage, one for each of my servants, and one for my-\\nself. Four Arabs, the owners of the camels, came with me on\\nfoot. My stores were a small soldier s tent, two bags of dried\\nbread brought from the convent at Jerusalem, and a couple of\\nbottles of wine from the same source\u00e2\u0080\u0094 two goat-skins filled with\\nwater, tea, sugar, and cold tongue, and (of all things in the\\nworld) a jar of Irish butter, which Mysseri had purchased from", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0155.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "136\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nsome merchant. There was also a small sack of charcoal, for\\nthe greater part of the desert, through which we were to pass,\\nis destitute of fuel.\\nThe camel kneels to receive her load, and for a while she will\\nallow the packing to go on with silent resignation, but when she\\nbegins to suspect that her master is putting more than a just\\nburthen upon her poor hump, she turns round her supple neck\\nand looks sadly upon the increasing load, and then gently remon-\\nstrates against the wrong with the sigh of a patient wife if sighs\\nwill not move you, she can weep you soon learn to pity, and\\nsoon to love her for the sake of her gentle and womanish ways.\\nYou cannot, of course, put an English or any other riding\\nsaddle upon the back of the camel, but your quilt, or carpet, or\\nwhatever you carry for the purpose of lying on at night, is fold-\\ned and fastened on the pack-saddle upon the top of the hump,\\nand on this you ride, or rather sit. You sit as a man sits on a\\nchair when he sits astride and faces the back of it. I made an\\nimprovement on this plan I had my English stirrups strapped\\non to the cross-bars of the pack-saddle, and thus by gaining rest\\nfor my dangling legs, and gaining, too, the power of varying\\nmy position more easily than I could otherwise have done, I add-\\ned very much to my comfort. Don t forget to do as I did.\\nThe camel, like the elephant, is one of the old-fashioned sort\\nof animals that still walk along upon the (now nearly exploded)\\nplan of the ancient beasts that lived before the flood she moves\\nforward both her near legs at the same time, and then awkward-\\nly swings round her off shoulder and haunch, so as to repeat the\\nmanoeuvre on that side her pace, therefore, is an odd, disjoint-\\ned and disjoining sort of movement that is rather disagreeable at\\nfirst, but you soon grow reconciled to it the height to which\\nyou are raised is of great advantage to you in passing the burn-\\ning sands of the desert, for the air at such a distance from the\\nground is much cooler and more lively than that which circulates\\nbeneath.\\nFor several miles beyond Gaza, the land which had been\\nplentifully watered by the rains of the last week, was covered\\nwith rich verdure, and thickly jewelled with meadow flowers, so\\nfresh and fragrant that I began to grow almost uneasy to fancy", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0156.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n137\\nthat the desert was receding before me, and that the long-desired\\nadventure of passing its burning sands, was to end in a mere\\nride across a field. But as I advanced the true character of the\\ncountry began to display itself with sufficient clearness to dispel\\nmy apprehensions, and before the close of my first day s jour-\\nney I had the gratification of finding that I was surrounded on\\nall sides by a tract of real sand, and had nothing at all to com-\\nplain of, except that there peeped forth at intervals a few isolated\\nblades of grass, and many of those stunted shrubs which are the\\naccustomed food of the camel.\\nBefore sunset I came up with an encampment of Arabs (the\\nencampment from which my camels had been brought), and my\\ntent was pitched amongst theirs. I was now amongst the true\\nBedouins almost every man of this race closely resembles his\\nbrethren almost every man has large and finely formed fea-\\ntures, but his face is so thoroughly stripped of flesh, and the\\nwhite folds from his head-gear fall down by his haggard cheeks,\\nso much in the burial fashion, that he looks quite sad and\\nghastly his large dark orbs roll slowly and solemnly over the\\nwhite of his deep-set eyes his countenance shows painful\\nthought and long-suffering the suffering of one fallen from a\\nhigh estate. His gait is strangely majestic, and he marches\\nalong with his simple blanket, as though he were wearing the\\npurple. His common talk is a series of piercing screams and\\ncries,* more painful to the ear than the most excruciating fine\\nmusic that I ever endured.\\nThe Bedouin women are not treasured up like the wives and\\ndaughters of other Orientals, and indeed they seemed almost\\nentirely free from the restraints imposed by jealousy the feint\\nwhich they made of concealing their faces from me was always\\nslight they never, I think, wore the yashmack properly fixed\\nwhen they first saw me, they used to hold up a part of their\\ndrapery with one hand across their faces, but they seldom perse-\\nvered very steadily in subjecting me to this privation. Unhappy\\nbeings they were sadly plain. The awful haggardness which\\nMilnes cleverly goes to the French for the exact word which conveys\\nthe impression produced by the voice of the Arabs, and calls them un\\npeuple criard", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0157.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "138\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\ngave something of character to the faces of the men, was sheer\\nugliness in the poor women. It is a great shame, but the truth\\nis that except when we refer to the beautiful devotion of the\\nmother to her child, all the fine things we say and think about\\nwoman, apply only to those who are tolerably good-looking or\\ngraceful. These Arab women were so plain and clumsy that\\nthey seemed to me to be fit for nothing but another and a better\\nworld. They may have been good women enough, so far as\\nrelates to the exercise of the minor virtues, but they had so\\ngrossly neglected the prime duty of looking pretty in this tran-\\nsitory life, that I could not at all forgive them they seemed to\\nfeel the weight of their guilt and to be truly and humbly peni-\\ntent. I had the complete command of their affections, for at any\\nmoment I could make their young hearts bound, and their old\\nhearts jump, by offering a handful of tobacco, and yet, believe\\nme, it was not in the first soiree that my store of Lataksea was\\nexhausted\\nThe Bedouin women have no religion this is partly the cause\\nof their clumsiness perhaps, if from Christian girls they would\\nlearn how to pray, their souls might become more gentle, and\\ntheir limbs be clothed with grace.\\nYou who are going into their country, have a direct personal\\ninterest in knowing something about Arab hospitality; but\\nthe deuce of it is, that the poor fellows with whom I have hap-\\npened to pitch my tent were scarcely ever in a condition to exer-\\ncise that magnanimous virtue with much eclat indeed Mysseri s\\ncanteen generally enabled me to outdo my hosts in the matter of\\nentertainment. They were always courteous, however, and\\nwere never backward in offering me the youart, or curds and\\nwhey, which is the principal delicacy to be found amongst the\\nwandering tribes.\\nPractically, I think, Childe Harold would have found it a\\ndreadful bore to make the desert his dwelling-place, for at\\nall events if he adopted the life of the Arabs, he would have\\ntasted no solitude. The tents are partitioned, not so as to divide\\nthe Childe and the fair spirit, who is his minister, from\\nthe rest of the world, but so as to separate the twenty or thirty\\nbrown men that sit screaming in the one compartment, from the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0158.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n139\\nfifty or sixty brown women and children that scream and squeak\\nin the other. If you adopt the Arab life for the sake of seclu-\\nsion, you will be horribly disappointed, for you will find your-\\nself in perpetual contact with a mass of hot fellow-creatures.\\nIt is true that all who are inmates of the same tent are related\\nto each other, but I am not quite sure that that circumstance\\nadds much to the charm of such a life. At all events before\\nyou finally determine to become an Arab, try a gentle experi-\\nment take one of those small, shabby houses in May Fair, and\\nshut yourself up in it with forty or fifty shrill cousins for a\\ncouple of weeks in July.\\nIn passing the Desert you will find your Arabs wanting to\\nstart and to rest at all sorts of odd times they like, for in-\\nstance, to be off at one in the morning, and to rest during the\\nwhole of the afternoon you must not give way to their wishes\\nin this respect I tried their plan once, and found it very\\nharassing and unwholesome. An ordinary tent can give you\\nvery little protection against heat, for the fire strikes fiercely\\nthrough single canvas, and you soon find that whilst you lie\\ncrouching, and striving to hide yourself from the blazing face\\nof the sun, his power is harder to bear than it is where you\\nboldly defy him from the airy heights of your camel.\\nIt had been arranged with my Arabs, that they were to bring\\nwith them all the food which they would want for themselves\\nduring the passage of the Desert, but as we rested at the end of\\nthe first day s journey, by the side of an Arab encampment,\\nmy camel-men found all that they required for that night in the\\ntents of their own brethren. On the evening of the second day,\\nhowever, just before we encamped for the night, my four Arabs\\ncame to Dthemetri, and formally announced that they had not\\nbrought with them one atom of food, and that they looked\\nentirely to my supplies for their daily bread. This was awk-\\nward intelligence we were now just two days deep in the\\nDesert, and I had brought with me no more bread than might\\nbe reasonably required for myself, and my European atten-\\ndants I believed at the moment (for it seemed likely enough)\\nthat the men had really mistaken the terms of the arrangement,\\nand feeling that the bore of being put upon half rations would", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0159.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "140\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nbe a less evil (and even to myself a less inconvenience) than\\nthe starvation of my Arabs, I at once told Dthemetri to assure\\nthem that my bread should be equally shared with all. Dthe-\\nmetri, however, did not approve of this concession he assured\\nme quite positively that the Arabs thoroughly understood the\\nagreement, and that if they were now without food, they had\\nwilfully brought themselves into this strait, for the wretched\\npurpose of bettering their bargain, by the value of a few paras\\nworth of bread. This suggestion made me look at the affair in\\na new light I should have been glad enough to put up with\\nthe slight privation to which my concession would subject me,\\nand could have borne to witness the semi-starvation of poor\\nDthemetri with a fine, philosophical calm, but it seemed to me\\nthat the scheme, if scheme it were, had something of audacity\\nin it, and was well enough calculated to try the extent of my\\nsoftness I well knew the danger of allowing such a trial to\\nresult in a conclusion that I was one who might be easily\\nmanaged and therefore, after thoroughly satisfying myself\\nfrom Dthemetri s clear and repeated assertions, that the Arabs\\nhad really understood the arrangement, I determined that they\\nshould not now violate it by taking advantage of my position in\\nthe midst of their big desert, so I desired Dthemetri to tell them\\nthat they should touch no bread of mine. We stopped, and the\\ntent was pitched the Arabs came to me, and prayed loudly\\nfor bread I refused them.\\nThen we die\\nGod s will be done.\\nI gave the Arabs to understand, that I. regretted their perish-\\ning by hunger, but that I should bear this calmly, like any\\nother misfortune not my own that in short I was happily\\nresigned to their fate. The men would have talked a great\\ndeal, but they were under the disadvantage of addressing me\\nthrough a hostile interpreter they looked hard upon my face,\\nbut they found no hope there, so at last they retired, as they\\npretended, to lay them down, and die.\\nIn about ten minutes from this time, I found that the Arabs\\nwere busily cooking their bread Their pretence of having\\nbrought no food was false, and was only invented for the pur-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0160.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n141\\npose of saving it. They had a good bag of meal which they\\nhad contrived to st@w away under the baggage, upon one of the\\ncamels, in such a way as to escape notice. In Europe the\\ndetection of a scheme like this would have occasioned a dis-\\nagreeable feeling between the master and the delinquent, but\\nyou would no more recoil from an Oriental, on account of a\\nmatter of this sort, than in England you would reject a horse\\nthat had tried, and failed to throw you. Indeed I felt quite\\ngood-humoredly towards my Arabs, because they had so wo-\\nfully failed in their wretched attempt, and because, as it turned\\nout, I had done what was right they too, poor fellows, evidently\\nbegan to like me immensely, on account of the hard-heartedness\\nwhich had enabled me to baffle their scheme.\\nThe Arabs adhere to those ancestral principles of bread-\\nbaking which have been sanctioned by the experience of ages.\\nThe very first baker of bread that ever lived, must have done\\nhis work exactly as the Arab does at this day. He takes some\\nmeal and holds it out in the hollow of his hands, whilst his\\ncomrade pours over it a few drops of water he then mashes up\\nthe moistened flour into a paste, which he pulls into small\\npieces, and thrusts into the embers his way of baking exactly\\nresembles the craft or mystery of roasting chestnuts, as practised\\nby children there is the same prudence and circumspection in\\nchoosing a good berth for the morsel the same enterprise, and\\nself-sacrificing valor, in pulling it out with the fingers.\\nThe manner of my daily march was this. At about an hour\\nbefore dawn, I rose, and made the most of about a pint of water\\nwhich I allowed myself for washing. Then I breakfasted upon\\ntea, and bread. As soon as the beasts were loaded, I mounted\\nmy camel, and pressed forward my poor Arabs being on foot\\nwould sometimes moan with fatigue, and pray for rest, but I was\\nanxious to enable them to perform their contract for bringing\\nme to Cairo within the stipulated time, and I did not therefore\\nallow a halt until the evening came. About mid-day, or soon\\nafter, Mysseri used to bring up his camel alongside of mine, and\\nsupply me with a piece of bread softened in water (for it was\\ndried hard like board), and also (as long as it lasted) with a\\npiece of the tongue after this there came into my hand (how", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0161.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "142\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nwell I remember it!) the little tin cup half filled with wine and\\nwater.\\nAs long as you are journeying in the interior of the Desert\\nyou have no particular point to make for as your resting-place.\\nThe endless sands yield nothing but small stunted shrubs even\\nthese fail after the first two or three days, and from that time\\nyou pass over broad plains you pass over newly reared hills\\nyou pass through valleys that the storm of the last week has\\ndug, and the hills and the valleys are sand, sand, sand, still\\nsand, and only sand, and sand, and sand again. The earth is\\nso samely, that your eyes turn towards heaven towards heaven,\\nI mean, in the sense of sky. You look to the Sun, for he is your\\ntask-master, and by him you know the measure of the work that\\nyou have done, and the measure of the work that remains for\\nyou to do He comes when you strike your tent in the early\\nmorning, and then, for the first hour of the day, as you move\\nforward on your camel, he stands at your near side, and makes\\nyou know that the whole day s toil is before you then for a\\nwhile and a long while you see him no more, for you are veiled,\\nand shrouded, and dare not look upon the greatness of his glory,\\nbut you know where he strides over head, by the touch of his\\nflaming sword. No words are spoken, but your Arabs moan,\\nyour camels sigh, your skin glows, your shoulders ache, and for\\nsights you see the pattern and the web of the silk that veils\\nyour eyes, and the glare of the outer light. Time labors on\\nyour skin glows, and your shoulders ache, your Arabs moan,\\nyour camels sigh, and you see the same pattern in the silk,\\nand the same glare of light beyond, but conquering Time\\nmarches on, and by and by the descending Sun has compassed\\nthe Heaven, and -now softly touches your right arm, and throws\\nyour lank shadow over the sand, right along on the way for\\nPersia then again you look upon his face, for his power is\\nall veiled in his beauty, and the redness of flames has become\\nthe redness of roses the fair, wavy cloud that fled in the morn-\\ning now comes to his sight once more comes blushing, yet still\\ncomes on comes burning with blushes, yet hastens, and clings\\nto his side.\\nThen arrives your time for resting. The world about you is", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0162.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n143\\nall your own, and there, where you will, you pitch your solitary\\ntent there is no living thing to dispute your choice. When\\nat last the spot had been fixed upon, and we came to a halt, one\\nof the Arabs would touch the chest of my camel, and utter at\\nthe same time a peculiar gurgling sound the beast instantly\\nunderstood, and obeyed the sign, and slowly sunk under me till\\nshe brought her body to a level with the ground then gladly\\nenough I alighted the rest of the camels were unloaded, and\\nturned loose to browse upon the shrubs of the Desert, where\\nshrubs there were, or where these failed, to wait for the small\\nquantity of food which was allowed them out of our stores.\\nMy servants, helped by the Arabs, busied themselves in\\npitching the tent and kindling the fire. Whilst this was doing I\\nused to walk away towards the East, confiding in the print of my\\nfoot as a guide for my return. Apart from the cheering voices\\nof my attendants I could better know and feel the loneliness of\\nthe Desert. The influence of such scenes, however, was not of\\na softening kind, but filled me rather with a sort of childish\\nexultation in the self-sufficiency which enabled me to stand thus\\nalone in the wilderness of Asia a short-lived pride, for wher-\\never man wanders, he still remains tethered by the chain that\\nlinks him to his kind and so when the night closed round me,\\nI began to return to return as it were to my own gate.\\nReaching at last some high ground, I could see, and see with\\ndelight, the fire of our small encampment, and when, at last,\\nI regained the spot, it seemed to me a very home that had sprung\\nup for me in the midst of these solitudes. My Arabs were busy\\nwith their bread, Mysseri rattling tea-cups, the little kettle\\nwith her odd, old-maidish looks sat humming away old songs\\nabout England, and two or three yards from the fire my tent\\nstood prim and tight with open portal, and with welcoming look,\\nlike the old arm chair of our Lyrist s sweet Lady Anne.\\nAt the beginning of my journey, the night breeze blew coldly\\nwhen that happened, the dry sand was heaped up outside round\\nthe skirts of the tent, and so the Wind that everywhere else\\ncould sweep as he listed along those dreary plains was forced to\\nturn aside in his course, and make way, as he ought, for the\\nEnglishman. Then within my tent, there were heaps of luxu-", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0163.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "144\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVII.\\nries, dining rooms, dressing rooms, libraries, bed rooms,\\ndrawing rooms, oratories, all crowded in the space of a hearth\\nrug. The first night, I remember, with my books, and maps\\nabout me, I wanted light, they brought me a taper, and imme-\\ndiately from out of the silent Desert there rushed in a flood of life,\\nunseen before. Monsters of moths of all shapes and hues, that\\nnever before perhaps had looked upon the shining of a flame,\\nnow madly thronged into my tent, and dashed through the fire\\nof the candle till they fairly extinguished it with their burning\\nlimbs. Those who had failed in attaining this martyrdom, sud-\\ndenly became serious, and clung despondingly to the canvas.\\nBy and by there was brought to me the fragrant tea, and big\\nmasses of scorched and scorching toast, that minded me of old\\nEton days, and the butter that had come all the way to me in this\\nDesert of Asia, from out of that poor, dear, starving Ireland. I\\nfeasted like a King, like four Kings, like a boy in the fourth\\nform.\\nWhen the cold, sullen morning dawned, and my people began\\nto load the camels, I always felt loath to give back to the waste\\nthis little spot of ground that had glowed for a while with the\\ncheerfulness of a human dwelling. One by one the cloaks, the\\nsaddles, the baggage, the hundred things that strewed the ground,\\nand made it look so familiar all these were taken away, and\\nlaid upon the camels. A speck in the broad tracts of Asia\\nremained still impressed with the mark of patent portmanteaus,\\nand the heels of London boots the embers of the fire lay black\\nand cold upon the sand, and these were the signs we left.\\nMy tent was spared to the last, but when all else was ready for\\nthe start, then came its fall the pegs were drawn, the canvas\\nshivered, and in less than a minute there was nothing that\\nremained of my genial home but only a pole and a bundle.\\nThe encroaching Englishman was off, and instant, upon the fall\\nof the canvas, like an owner, who had waited, and watched, the\\nGenius of the Desert stalked in.\\nTo servants, as I suppose to any other Europeans not much\\naccustomed to amuse themselves by fancy, or memory, it often\\nhappens that after a few days journeying, the loneliness of the\\ndesert will become frightfully oppressive. Upon my poor fel-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0164.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n145\\nlows the access of melancholy came heavy, and all at once, as a\\nblow from above they bent their necks, and bore it as best they\\ncould, but their joy was great on the fifth day, when we came to\\nan Oasis called Gatieth, for here we found encamped a caravan\\n(that is an assemblage of travellers) from Cairo. The Orientals\\nliving in cities, never pass the Desert, except in this way many\\nwill wait for weeks, and even for months, until a sufficient num-\\nber of persons can be found ready to undertake the journey at\\nthe same time until the flock of sheep is big enough to fancy\\nitself a match for wolves. They could not, I think, really\\nsecure themselves against any serious danger by this contri-\\nvance, for though they have arms, they are so little accustomed\\nto, use them, and so utterly unorganized, that they never could\\nmake good their resistance to robbers of the slightest respectability.\\nIt is not of the Bedouins that such travellers are afraid, for the\\nsafe-conduct granted by the Chief of the ruling tribe is never, I\\nbelieve, violated, but it is said that there are deserters and\\nscamps of various sorts who hover about the skirts of the Desert,\\nparticularly on the Cairo side, and are anxious to succeed to the\\nproperty of any poor devils whom they may find more weak\\nand defenceless than themselves.\\nThese people from Cairo professed to be amazed at the ludi-\\ncrous disproportion between their numerical forces and mine.\\nThey could not understand, and they wanted to know by what\\nstrange privilege it is that an Englishman with a brace of pistols\\nand a couple of servants rides safely across the Desert, whilst\\nthey, the natives of the neighboring cities, are forced to travel in\\ntroops, or rather in herds. One of them got a few minutes of\\nprivate conversation with Dthemetri, and ventured to ask him\\nanxiously, whether the English did not travel under the protec-\\ntion of Evil Demons. I had previously known (from Methley\\nI think, who travelled in Persia) that this notion, so conducive\\nto the safety of our countrymen, is generally prevalent among\\nOrientals it owes its origin partly to the strong wilfulness of\\nthe English gentleman (which not being backed by any visible\\nauthority, either civil or military, seems perfectly superhuman\\nto the soft Asiatic), but partly too to the magic of the Banking\\nsystem, by force of which the wealthy traveller will make all\\n11", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0165.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "146\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nhis journeys, without carrying a handful of coin, and yet when\\nhe arrives at a city, will rain down showers of gold. The\\ntheory is that the English traveller has committed some sin\\nagainst God and his conscience, and that for this, the Evil\\nSpirit has hold of him and drives him from his home, like a vic-\\ntim of the old Grecian Furies, and forces him to travel over\\ncountries far and strange, and most chiefly over Deserts and\\ndesolate places, and to stand upon the sites of cities that once\\nwere, and are now no more, and to grope among the tombs of\\ndead men. Often enough there is something of truth in this\\nnotion; often enough the wandering Englishman is guilty (if\\nguilt it be) of some pride, or ambition, big or small, imperial\\nor parochial, which being offended has made the lone places\\nmore tolerable than ball rooms to him, a sinner.\\nI can understand the sort of amazement of the Orientals at\\nthe scantiness of the retinue with which an Englishman passes\\nthe Desert, for I was somewhat struck myself when I saw one\\nof my countrymen making his way across the wilderness in\\nthis simple style. At first there was a mere moving speck in\\ntfee horizon my party, of course, became all alive with excite-\\nment, and there were many surmises soon it appeared that\\nthree laden camels were approaching, and that two of them\\ncarried riders in a little while we saw that one of the riders\\nwore the European dress, and at last the travellers were pro-\\nnounced to be an English gentleman and his servant by their\\nside there were a couple, I think, of Arabs on foot, and this was\\nthe whole party.\\nYou,\u00e2\u0080\u0094 you love sailing, in returning from a cruise to the\\nEnglish coast, you see often enough a fisherman s humble boat\\nfar away from all shores, with an ugly black sky above, and\\nan angry sea beneath, you watch the grisly old man at the\\nhelm, carrying his craft with strange skill through the turmoil\\nof waters, and the boy, supple-limbed, yet weather-worn al-\\nready, and with steady eyes that look through the blast, you\\nsee him understanding commandments from the jerk of his\\nfather s white eyebrow, now belaying, and now letting go,\\nnow scrunching himself down into mere ballast, or baling out\\nDeath with a pipkin. Stale enough is the sight, and yet when", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0166.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n147\\njl see it I always- stare anew, and with a kind of Titanic exulta-\\ntion, because that a poor boat with the brain of a man, and the\\nhands of a boy on board, can match herself so bravely against\\nblack Heaven and Ocean well, so when you have travelled\\nfor days and days, over an Eastern Desert, without meeting the\\nlikeness of a human being, and at last see an English shooting-\\njacket and his servant come listlessly slouching along from out\\nthe forward horizon, you stare at the wide unproportion between\\nthis slender company, and the boundless plains of sand through\\nwhich they are keeping their way.\\nThis Englishman, as I afterwards found, was a military man\\nreturning to his country from India, and crossing the Desert at this\\npart in order to go through Palestine. As forme, I had come pretty\\nstraight from England, and so here we met in the wilderness at\\nabout half way from our respective starting points. As we ap-\\nproached each other it became with me a question whether we\\nshould speak I thought it likely that the stranger would accost\\nme, and in the event of his doing so I was quite ready to be as\\nsociable and chatty as I could be, according to my nature, but\\nstill I could not think of anything in particular that I had to\\nsay to him of course among civilized people the not having\\nanything to say is no excuse at all for not speaking, but I was\\nshy and indolent, and I felt no great wish to stop and talk like\\na morning visitor, in the midst of those broad solitudes. The\\ntraveller, perhaps, felt as I did, for except that we lifted our\\nhands to our caps and waved our arms in courtesy, we passed\\neach other as if we had passed in Bond Street. Our attendants,,\\nhowever, were not to be cheated of the delight that they felt in\\nspeaking to new listeners, and hearing fresh voices once more.\\nThe masters, therefore, had no sooner passed each other than\\ntheir respective servants quietly stopped and entered into con-\\nversation. As soon as my camel found her companions were\\nnot following her, she caught the social feeling and refused to.\\ngo on. I felt the absurdity of the situation and determined to\\naccost the stranger, if only to avoid the awkwardness of re-\\nmaining stuck fast in the Desert, whilst our servants were amus-\\ning themselves. When with this intent I turned round my\\ncamel, I found that the gallant officer who had passed me by", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0167.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "148\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nabout thirty or forty yards, was exactly in the same predica-\\nment as myself. I put my now willing camel in motion and\\nrode up towards the stranger, who, seeing this, followed my ex-\\nample and came forward to meet me. He was the first to\\nspeak he was much too courteous to address me as if he ad-\\nmitted of the possibility of my wishing to accost him from any\\nfeeling of mere sociability, or civilian-like love of vain talk\\n*on the contrary, he at once attributed my advances to a lauda-\\nble wish of acquiring statistical information, and accordingly,\\nwhen we got within speaking distance, he said, I dare say you\\nwish to know how the Plague is going on at Cairo and then\\nhe went on to say, he regretted that his information did not enable\\nhim to give me in numbers a perfectly accurate statement of the\\ndaily deaths he afterwards talked pleasantly enough upon other\\nand less ghastly subjects. I thought him manly and intelligent\\na worthy one of the few thousand strong Englishmen to whom\\nthe Empire of India is committed.\\nThe night after the meeting with the people of the caravan,\\nDthemetri, alarmed by their warnings, took upon himself to\\nkeep watch all night in the tent no robbers came except a\\njackal that poked his nose into my tent from some motive of ra-\\ntional curiosity Dthemetri did not shoot him for fear of wak-\\ning me. These brutes swarm in every part of Syria and\\nthere were many of them even in the midst of the void sands,\\nthat would seem to give such poor promise of food I can hardly\\ntell what prey they could be hoping for, unless it were that they\\nmight find, now and then, the carcase of some camel that had\\ndied on the journey. They do not marshal themselves into\\ngreat packs like the wild dogs of Eastern cities, but follow their\\nprey in families, like the place-hunters of Europe their voices\\nare frightfully like to the shouts and cries of human beings if\\nyou lie awake in your tent at night, you are almost continually\\nhearing some hungry family as it sweeps along in full cry you\\nhear the exulting scream with which the sagacious dam first\\nwinds the carrion, and the shrill response of the unanimous\\ncubs as they snuff the tainted air Wha wha wha wha\\nwha wha Whose gift is it in, mamma\\nOnce, during this passage, my Arabs lost their way among the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0168.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n149\\nhills of loose sand that surrounded us, but after a while we were\\nlucky enough to recover our right line of march. The same\\nday we fell in with a Sheik, the head of a family, that actually\\ndwells at no great distance from this part of the desert during\\nnine months of the year. The man carried a match-lock, of\\nwhich he was very proud we stopped and sat down, and rested\\nawhile for the sake of a little talk; there was much that I\\nshould have liked to ask this man, but he could not understand\\nDthemetri s language, and the process of getting at his know-\\nledge by double interpretation through my Arabs was unsatis-\\nfactory. I discovered, however (and my Arabs knew of that\\nfact), that this man and his family lived habitually for nine\\nmonths of the year, without touching or seeing either bread or\\nwater. The stunted shrub growing at intervals through the sand\\nin this part of the desert, is fed by the dews which fall at night,\\nand enables the camel mares to yield a little milk, which fur-\\nnishes the sole food and drink of their owner and his people.\\nDuring the other three months (the hottest of the months, I sup-\\npose) even this resource fails, and then the Sheik and his people\\nare forced to pass into another district. You would ask me why\\nthe man should not remain always in that district which supplies\\nhim with water during three months of the year, but I don t\\nknow enough of Arab politics to answer the question. The\\nSheik was not a good specimen of the effect produced by the diet\\nto which he is subjected he was very small, very spare, and\\nsadly shrivelled a poor, over-roasted snipe, a mere cinder of a\\nman I made him sit down by my side, and gave him a piece of\\nbread and a cup of water from out of my goat-skins. This\\nwas not very tempting drink to look at, for it had become turbid,\\nand was deeply reddened by some coloring matter contained in\\nthe skins, but it kept its sweetness and tasted like a strong de-\\ncoction of Russia leather. The Sheik sipped this, drop by drop,\\nwith ineffable relish, and rolled his eyes solemnly round between\\nevery draught, as though the drink were the drink of the Prophet,\\nand had come from the seventh heaven.\\nAn inquiry about distances led to the discovery that this Sheik\\nhad never heard of the division of time into hours my Arabs\\nthemselves, I think, were rather surprised at this.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0169.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "150\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xvii.\\nAbout this part of my journey, I saw the likeness of a fresh-\\nwater lake I saw, as it seemed, a broad sheet of calm water\\nthat stretched far and fair towards the south stretching deep\\ninto winding creeks, and hemmed in by jutting promontories, ancT\\nshelving smooth off towards the shallow side on its bosom the\\nreflected fire of the sun lay playing and seeming to float upon\\nwaters deep and still.\\nThough I knew of the cheat, it was not till the spongy foot of\\nmy camel had almost trodden in the seeming waters, that I could\\nundeceive my eyes, for the shore line was quite true and natural.\\nI soon saw the cause of the phantasm. A sheet of water\\nheavily impregnated with salts, had filled this great hollow and\\nwhen dried up by evaporation had left a white saline deposit\\nthat exactly marked the space which the waters had covered,\\nand thus sketched a true shore-line. The minute crystals of\\nthe salt sparkled in the sun, and so looked like the face of a lake\\nthat is calm and smooth.\\nThe pace of the camel is irksome, and makes your shoulders\\nand loins ache from the peculiar way in which you are obliged\\nto suit yourself to the movements of the beast, but you soon of\\ncourse become inured to this, and after the first two days this\\nway of travelling became so familiar to me, that (poor sleeper\\nas I am) I now and then slumbered for some moments together,\\non the back of my camel. On the fifth day of my journey the\\nair above lay dead, and all the whole earth that I could reach\\nwith my utmost sight and keenest listening, was still and life-\\nless as some dispeopled and forgotten world, that rolls round and\\nround in the heavens, through wasted floods of light. The .sun,\\ngrowing fiercer and fiercer, shone down more mightily now than\\never on me he shone before, and as I drooped my head under his\\nfire and closed my eyes against the glare that surrounded me, I\\nslowly fell asleep, for how many minutes or moments, I cannot\\ntell, but after a while I was gently awakened by a peal of church\\nbells my native bells the innocent bells of Marlen, that never\\nbefore sent forth their music beyond the Blaygon hills My\\nfirst idea naturally was, that I still remained fast under the\\npower of a dream. I roused myself and drew aside the silk\\nthat covered my eyes, and plunged my bare face into the light.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0170.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n151\\nThen at least I was well enough wakened, but still those old\\nMarlen bells rung on, not ringing for joy, but properly, prosily,\\nsteadily, merrily ringing for church. After a while the\\nsound died away slowly it happened that neither I nor any of\\nmy party had a watch by which to measure the exact time of its\\nlasting, but it seemed to be that about ten minutes had passed\\nbefore the bells ceased. I attributed the effect to the great heat\\nof the sun, the perfect dryness of the clear air through which I\\nmoved, and the deep stillness of all around me it seemed to me\\nthat these causes, by occasioning a great tension, and consequent\\nsusceptibility of the hearing organs, had rendered them liable to\\ntingle under the passing touch of some mere memory, that must\\nhave swept across my brain in a moment of sleep. Since my\\nreturn to England it has been told me that like sounds have been\\nheard at sea, and that the sailor becalmed under a vertical sun\\nin the midst of the wide ocean, has listened in trembling wonder\\nto the chime of his own village bells.\\nAt this time I kept a poor, shabby pretence of a journal,\\nwhich just enabled me to know the day of the month and the\\nweek, according to the European calendar, and when in my tent\\nat night I got out my pocket-book, I found that the day was Sun-\\nday, and roughly allowing for the difference of time in this lon-\\ngitude, I concluded that at the moment of my hearing that\\nstrange peal, the church-going bells of Marlen must have been\\nactually calling the prim congregation of the parish to morning\\nprayer. The coincidence amused me faintly, but I could not\\npluck up the least hope that the effect which I had experienced\\nwas anything other than an illusion an illusion liable to be\\nexplained (as every illusion is in these days) by some of the\\nphilosophers who guess at nature s riddles. It would have been\\nsweeter to believe that my kneeling mother, by some pious\\nenchantment, had asked, and found this spell to rouse me from\\nmy scandalous forgetfulness of God s holy day, but my fancy\\nwas too weak to carry a faith like that. Indeed, the vale\\nthrough which the bells of Marlen send their song is a highly\\nrespectable vale, and its people (save one, two, or three) are\\nwholly unaddicted to the practice of magical arts.\\nAfter the fifth day of my journey, I no longer travelled over", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0171.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "152\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVII.\\nshifting hills, but came upon a dead level a dead level bed of\\nsand, quite hard, and studded with small shining pebbles.\\nThe heat grew fierce there was no valley nor hollow, nor\\nhill, no mound, no shadow of hill nor of mound by which I\\ncould mark the way I was making. Hour by hour I advanced,\\nand saw no change I was still the very centre of a round horizon\\nhour by hour I advanced, and still there was the same, and the\\nsame, and the same the same circle of flaming sky the same\\ncircle of sand still glaring with light and fire. Over all the\\nheaven above over all the earth beneath, there was no visible\\npower that could balk the fierce will of the sun he rejoiced\\nas a strong man to run a race his going forth was from the\\nend of the heaven, and his circuit unto the ends of it and there\\nwas nothing hid from the heat thereof. From pole to pole, and\\nfrom the East to the West, he brandished his fiery sceptre as\\nthough he had usurped all Heaven and Earth. As he bid the\\nsoft Persian in ancient times, so now and fiercely too, he bid\\nme bow down and worship him so now in his pride he seemed\\nto command me and say, Thou shalt have none other gods\\nbut me. I was all alone before him. There were these two\\npitted together, and face to face the mighty sun for one, and\\nfor the other this poor, pale, solitary self of mine, that I\\nalways carry about with me.\\nBut on the eighth day, and before I had yet turned away from\\nJehovah for the glittering god of the Persians, there appeared\\na dark line upon the edge of the forward horizon, and soon the\\nline deepened into a delicate fringe that sparkled here and\\nthere as though it were sown with diamonds. There, then,\\nbefore me were the gardens and the minarets of Egypt, and the\\nmighty works of the Nile, and I (the eternal Ego that I am\\nI had lived to see, and I saw them.\\nWhen evening came I was still within the confines of the\\ndesert, and my tent was pitched as usual, but one of my Arabs\\nstalked away rapidly towards the West without telling me of\\nthe errand on which he was bent. After a while he returned\\nhe had toiled on a graceful service he had travelled all the\\nway on to the border of the living world, and brought me back\\nfor token an ear of rice, full, fresh, and green.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0172.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVII.]\\nTHE DESERT.\\n153\\nThe next day I entered upon Egypt, and floated along (for the\\ndelight was as the delight of bathing) through green, wavy fields\\nof rice, and pastures fresh and plentiful, and dived into the\\ncold verdure of groves and gardens, and quenched my hot eyes\\nin shade, as though in deep rushing waters.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0173.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "154\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVIII.\\nCHAPTER XVIII.\\nCairo and the Plague.*\\nCairo and Plague During the whole time of my stay, the\\nPlague was so master of the city, and showed himself so star-\\ningly in every street and every alley, that I can t now affect to\\ndissociate the two ideas.\\nWhen coming from the desert, I rode through a village which\\nlies near to the city on the eastern side, there approached me\\nwith busy face and earnest gestures, a personage in the Turkish\\ndress his long flowing beard gave him rather a majestic look,\\nbut his briskness of manner and his visible anxiety to accost\\nme, seemed strange in an Oriental. The man, in fact, was\\nFrench or of French origin, and his object was to warn me of\\nthe Plague and prevent me from entering the city.\\nArretez-vous, Monsieur, je vous en prie arretez-vous il ne\\nfaut pas entrer dans la ville la Peste y regne partout.\\nThere is some semblance of bravado in my manner of talking about the\\nPlague. I have been more careful to describe the terrors of other people\\nthan my own. The truth is, that during the whole period of my stay at\\nCairo, I remained thoroughly impressed with a sense of my danger. I may\\nalmost say that I lived in perpetual apprehension, for even in sleep, as I\\nfancy, there remained with me some faint notion of the peril with which I\\nwas encompassed. But Fear does not necessarily damp the spirits on the\\ncontrary, it will often operate as an excitement, giving rise to unusual ani-\\nmation, and thus it affected me. If I had not been surrounded at this time\\nby new faces, new scenes, and new sounds, the effect produced upon my\\nmind by one unceasing cause of alarm, may have been very different. As\\nit was, the eagerness with which I pursued my rambles among the wonders\\nof Egypt was sharpened and increased by the sting of the fear of Death.\\nThus my account of the matter plainly conveys an impression that I re-\\nmained at Cairo without losing my cheerfulness and buoyancy of spirits.\\nAnd this is the truth, but it is also true, as I have freely confessed, that my\\nsense of danger during the whole period was lively and continuous.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0174.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n155\\nOui, je sais,* mais\\nMais, Monsieur, je dis la Peste la Peste c est de La Peste\\nqu il est question.\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nMais, Monsieur, je dis encore la Peste la Peste. Je vous\\nconjure de ne pas entrer dans la ville vous seriez dans une\\nville empestee.\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nMais Monsieur, je dois done vous avertir tout bonnement que\\nsi vous entrez dans la ville, vous serez enfin vous serez Com-\\npromis !f\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nThe Frenchman was at last convinced that it was vain to\\nreason with a mere Englishman who could not understand what\\nit was to be compromised. I thanked him most sincerely for\\nhis kindly meant warning in hot countries it is very unusual\\nindeed for a man to go out in the glare of the sun, and give free\\nadvice to a stranger.\\nWhen I arrived at Cairo I summoned Osman EfFendi, who\\nwas, as I knew, the owner of several houses, and would be able\\nto provide me with apartments he had no difficulty in doing\\nthis, for there was not one European traveller in Cairo besides\\nmyself. Poor Osman he met me with a sorrowful counte-\\nnance, for the fear of the Plague sat heavily on his soul he\\nseemed as if he felt that he was doing wrong in lending me a\\nresting-place, and he betrayed such a listlessness about temporal\\nmatters, as one might look for in a man who believed that his\\ndays were numbered. He caught me, too, soon after my arri-\\nval, coming out from the public baths,^: and from that time for-\\nAnglice for je le sais. These answers of mine as given above, are\\nnot meant for specimens of mere French, but of that fine, terse, nervous,\\nContinental English, with which I and my compatriots make our way\\nthrough Europe. This language, by the bye, is one possessing great force\\nand energy, and is not without its literature a literature of the very highest\\norder. Where will you find more sturdy specimens of downright, honest,\\nand noble English, than in the Duke of Wellington s French despatches\\nf The import of the word compromised when used in reference to\\ncontagion, is explained in page 2.\\nIt is said, that when a Mussulman finds himself attacked by the Plague,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0175.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "156\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nward he was sadly afraid of me, for he shared the opinions of\\nEuropeans with respect to the effect of contagion.\\nOsman s history is a curious one-. He was a Scotchman\\nborn, and when very young, being then a drummer-boy, he\\nlanded in Egypt with Mackensie Fraser s force. He was\\ntaken prisoner, and according to Mahometan custom, the alter-\\nnative of Death or the Koran was offered to him he did not\\nchoose Death, and therefore went through the ceremonies which\\nwere necessary for turning him into a good Mahometan. But\\nwhat amused me most in -his history was this that very soon\\nafter having embraced Islam, he was obliged in practice to be-\\ncome curious and discriminating in his new faith to make war\\nupon Mahometan dissenters, and follow the orthodox standard of\\nthe Prophet in fierce campaigns against the Wahabees, who are\\nthe Unitarians of the Mussulman world. The Wahabees were\\ncrushed, and Osman returning home in triumph from his holy\\nwars, began to flourish in the world he acquired property and\\nbecame effendi, or gentleman. At the time of my visit to Cairo\\nhe seemed to be much respected by his brother Mahometans, and\\ngave pledge of his sincere alienation from Christianity by keep-\\ning a couple of wives. He affected the same sort of reserve in\\nmentioning them as is generally shown by Orientals. He invit-\\ned me, indeed, to see his hareem, but he made both his wives\\nbundle out before I was admitted he felt, as it seemed to me,\\nthat neither of them would bear criticism, and I think that this\\nidea, rather than any motive of sincere jealousy, induced him\\nto keep them out of sight. The rooms of the hareem reminded\\nme of an English nursery, rather than of a Mahometan para-\\ndise. One is apt to judge of a woman before one sees her, by\\nthe air of elegance or coarseness with which she surrounds her\\nhome I judged Osman s wives by this test, and condemned them\\nboth. But the strangest feature in Osman s character was his\\ninextinguishable nationality. In vain they had brought him\\nhe goes and takes a bath. The couches on which the bathers recline would\\ncarry infection, according to the notion of the Europeans. Whenever,\\ntherefore, I took the bath at Cairo (except the first time of my doing so) I\\navoided that part of the luxury which consists in being put up to dry\\nupon a kind of bed.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0176.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "chap, xviii.] CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n157\\nover the seas in. early boyhood in vain had he suffered captivity,\\nconversion, circumcision in vain they had passed him through\\nfire in their Arabian campaigns they could not cut away or\\nburn out poor Osman s inborn love of all that was Scotch in\\nvain men called him Effendi in vain he swept along in eastern\\nrobes in vain the rival wives adorned his hareem the joy of\\nhis heart still plainly lay in this, that he had three shelves of\\nbooks, and that the books were thorough-bred Scotch the Edin-\\nburgh this the Edinburgh that, and above all, I recollect, he\\nprided himself upon the Edinburgh Cabinet Library.\\nThe fear of the Plague is its forerunner. It is likely enough\\nthat at the time of my seeing poor Osman, the deadly taint was\\nbeginning to creep through his veins, but it was not till after I\\nleft Cairo that he was visibly stricken. He died.\\nAs soon as I had seen all that I wanted to see in Cairo, and\\nin the neighborhood, I wished to make my escape from a city\\nthat lay under the terrible curse of the Plague, but Mysseri fell\\nill in consequence, I believe, of the hardships which he had\\nbeen suffering in my service after a while he recovered suffi-\\nciently to undertake a journey, but then there was some difficul-\\nty in procuring beasts of burden, and it was not till the nine-\\nteenth day of my sojourn that I quitted the city.\\nDuring all this time the power of the Plague was rapidly in-\\ncreasing. When I first arrived it was said that the daily num-\\nber of accidents by plague, out of a population of about\\n200,000, did not exceed four or five hundred, but before I went\\naway the deaths were reckoned at twelve hundred a day. I\\nhad no means of knowing whether the numbers (given out, as\\nI believe they were, by officials) were at all correct, but I could\\nnot help knowing that from day to day the number of the dead\\nwas increasing. My quarters were in a street which was one\\nof the chief thoroughfares of the city. The funerals in Cairo\\ntake place between day-break and noon, and as I was generally\\nin my rooms during this part of the day, I could form some\\nopinion as to the briskness of the Plague. I don t mean this for\\na sly insinuation that I got up every morning with the sun. It\\nwas not so, but the funerals of most people in decent circum-\\nstances at Cairo are attended by singers and howlers, and the", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0177.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "158\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVIII.\\nperformances of these people woke me in the early morning,\\nand prevented me from remaining in ignorance of what was\\ngoing on in the street below.\\nThese funerals were very simply conducted. The bier was\\na shallow wooden tray carried upon a light and weak wooden\\nframe. The tray had, in general, no lid, but the body was\\nmore or less hidden from view by a shawl or scarf. The whole\\nwas borne upon the shoulders of men who contrived to cut\\nalong with their burdens at a great pace. Two or three singers\\ngenerally preceded the bier the howlers (who are paid for\\ntheir vocal labors) followed after, and last of all came such of\\nthe dead man s friends and relations as could keep up with such\\na rapid procession these, especially the women, would get ter-\\nribly blown, and would straggle back into the rear many were\\nfairly beaten off. I- never observed any appearance of\\nmourning in the mourners the pace was too severe for any\\nsolemn affectation of grief.\\nWhen first I arrived at Cairo the funerals that daily passed\\nunder my windows were many, but still there were frequent\\nand long intervals without a single howl. Every day, however\\n(except one, when I fancied I observed a diminution of funerals),\\nthese intervals became less frequent, and shorter, and at last\\nthe passing of the howlers from morn to noon was almost inces-\\nsant. I believe that about one half of the whole people was\\ncarried off by this visitation. The Orientals, however, have\\nmore quiet fortitude than Europeans under afflictions of this\\nsort, and they never allow the Plague to interfere with their re-\\nligious usages. I rode one day round the burial ground. The\\ntombs are strewed over a great expanse, among the vast moun-\\ntains of rubbish (the accumulations of many centuries) which\\nsurround the city. The ground, unlike the Turkish cities of\\nthe dead, which are made so beautiful by their dark cypresses,\\nhas nothing to sweeten melancholy nothing to mitigate the\\nodiousness of death. Carnivorous beasts and birds possess the\\nplace by night, and now in the fair morning it was all alive\\nwith fresh comers alive with dead. Yet at this very time\\nwhen the Plague was raging so furiously, and on this very\\nground which resounded so mournfully with the howls of arriv-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0178.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "CHAP; XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n159\\ning funerals, preparations were going on for the religious\\nfestival called the Kourban Bairam. Tents were pitched\\nand swings hung for the amusement of children a ghastly holli-\\nday but the Mahometans take a pride, and a just pride, in fol-\\nlowing their ancient customs undisturbed by the shadow of\\ndeath.\\nI did not hear whilst I was at Cairo that any prayer for a re-\\nmission of the Plague had been offered up in the mosques. I\\nbelieve that, however frightful the ravages of the disease may\\nbe, the Mahometans refrain from approaching Heaven with their\\ncomplaints until the Plague has endured for a long space, and\\nthen at last they pray God, not that the Plague may cease, but\\nthat it may not go to another city\\nA good Mussulman seems to take pride in repudiating the\\nEuropean notion that the will of God can be eluded by eluding\\nthe touch of a sleeve. When I went to see the Pyramids of\\nSakkara, I was the guest of a noble old fellow an Osmanlee,\\nwhose soft rolling language it was a luxury to hear, after suf-\\nfering as I had suffered of late from the shrieking tongue of the\\nArabs this man was aware of the European ideas about conta-\\ngion, and his first care, therefore, was to assure me that not a sin-\\ngle instance of Plague had occurred in his village he then in-\\nquired as to the progress of the Plague at Cairo I had but a\\nbad account to give. Up to this time my host had carefully re-\\nfrained from touching me, out of respect to the European theory\\nof contagion, but as soon as it was made plain that he, and not\\nI, would be the person endangered by contact, he gently laid\\nhis hand upon my arm, in order to make me feel sure that the\\ncircumstance of my coming from an infected city did not occa-\\nsion him the least uneasiness. That touch was worthy of Jove.\\nVery different is the faith and the practice of the Europeans,\\nor rather I mean of the Europeans settled in the East, and com-\\nmonly called Levantines. When I came to the end of my\\njourney over the desert, I had been so long alone that the pros-\\npect of speaking to somebody at Cairo seemed almost a new\\nexcitement. I felt a sort of consciousness that I had a little of\\nthe wild beast about me, but I was quite in the humor to be\\ncharmingly tame, and to be quite engaging in my manners if I", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0179.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "160\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nshould have an opportunity of holding communion with any of\\nthe human race whilst at Cairo. I knew no one in the place,\\nand had no letters of introduction, but I carried letters of credit,\\nand it often happens in places remote from England that those\\nadvices operate as a sort of introduction, and obtain for the\\nbearer (if disposed to receive them) such ordinary civilities as\\nit may be in the power of the banker to offer.\\nVery soon after my arrival I went to the house of the Levan-\\ntine, to whom my credentials were addressed. At his door\\nseveral persons (all Arabs) were hanging about and keeping\\nguard. It was not till after some delay, and the passing of some\\ncommunications with those in the interior of the citadel, that I\\nwas admitted. At length, however, I was conducted through the\\ncourt and up a flight of stairs, and finally into the apartment\\nwhere business was transacted. The room was divided by an\\nexcellent, substantial fence of iron bars, and behind this grille\\nthe banker had his station. The truth was, that from fear of\\nthe plague he had adopted the course usually taken by Euro-\\npean residents, and had shut himself up in strict quarantine,\\nthat is to say, that he had, as he hoped, cut himself off from all\\ncommunication with infecting substances. The Europeans long\\nresident in the East, without any, or with scarcely any excep-\\ntion, are firmly convinced that the plague is propagated by con-\\ntact and by contact only that if they can but avoid the\\ntouch of an infecting substance, they are safe, and if they can-\\nnot, they die. This belief induces them to adopt the contrivance\\nof putting themselves in that state of siege which they call\\nQuarantine. It is a part of their faith that metals and\\nhempen rope, and also, I fancy, one or two other substances will\\nnot carry the infection and they likewise believe that the germ\\nof pestilence which lies in an infected substance, may be\\ndestroyed by submersion in water, or by the action of smoke.\\nThey therefore guard the doors of their houses with the utmost\\ncare against intrusion, and condemn themselves and all the\\nmembers of their family, including any European servants, to a\\nstrict imprisonment within the walls of their dwelling. Their\\nnative attendants are not allowed to enter at all, but they make\\nthe necessary purchases of provisions, which are hauled up", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0180.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n161\\nthrough one of the windows by means of a rope, and are then\\nsoaked in water.\\nI knew nothing of these mysteries, and was not therefore pre-\\npared for the sort of reception which I met with. I advanced to\\nthe iron fence, and putting my letter between the bars, politely\\nproffered it to Mr. Banker. Mr. Banker received me with a\\nsad and dejected look, and not with open arms, or with any\\narms at all, but with a pair of tongs I placed my letter\\nbetween the iron fingers which picked it up as if it were a viper,\\nand conveyed it away to be scorched and purified by fire and\\nsmoke. I was disgusted at this reception, and at the idea that\\nanything of mine could carry infection to the poor wretch, who\\nstood on the other side of the grille pale and trembling, and\\nalready meet for Death. I looked with something of the Maho-\\nmetan s feeling upon these little contrivances for eluding Fate\\nand in this instance at least they were vain a few more days\\nand the poor money-changer who had strived to guard the days\\nof his life (as though they were coins) with bolts and bars of iron\\nhe was seized by the Plague and he died.\\nTo people entertaining such opinions as these respecting the\\nfatal effect of contact, the narrow and crowded streets of Cairo\\nwere terrible as the easy slope that leads to Avernus. The\\nroaring Ocean and the beetling crags owe something of their\\nsublimity to this that if they be tempted, they can take the\\nwarm life of a man. To the contagionist, filled as he is with\\nthe dread of final causes, having no faith in Destiny, nor in the\\nfixed will of God, and with none of the devil-may-care indiffer-\\nence which might stand him instead of creeds to such one, every\\nrag that shivers in the breeze of a Plague-stricken city has this\\nsort of sublimity. If by any terrible ordinance he be forced to\\nventure forth, he sees Death dangling from every sleeve, and as\\nhe creeps forward he poises his shuddering limbs between the\\nimminent jacket that is stabbing at his right elbow and the mur-\\nderous pelisse that threatens to mow him clean down, as it\\nsweeps along on his left. But most of all he dreads that which\\nmost of all he should love the touch of a woman s dress, for\\nmothers and wives hurrying forth on kindly errands from the\\nbedsides of the dying, go slouching along through the streets\\n12", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0181.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "162\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nmore wilfully and less courteously than the men. For a while\\nit may be that the caution of the poor Levantine may enable him\\nto avoid contact, but sooner or later, perhaps, the dreaded chance\\narrives that bundle of linen, with the dark tearful eyes at the\\ntop of it, that labors along with the voluptuous clumsiness of\\nGrisi s he has touched the poor Levantine with the hem of her\\nsleeve from that dread moment his peace is gone his mind\\nfor ever hanging upon the fatal touch, invites the blow which he\\nfears he watches for the symptoms of plague so carefully, that\\nsooner or later they come in truth. The parched mouth is a\\nsign his mouth is parched the throbbing brain his brain does\\nthrob the rapid pulse he touches his own wrist (for he dares\\nnot ask counsel of any man lest he be deserted), he touches his\\nwrist, and feels how his frighted blood goes galloping out of his\\nheart there is nothing but the fatal swelling that is wanting to\\nmake his sad conviction complete immediately he has an odd\\nfeel under the arm no pain, but a little straining of the skin\\nhe would to God it were his fancy that were strong enough to\\ngive him that sensation this is the worst of all it now seems\\nto him that he could be happy and contented with his parched\\nmouth, and his throbbing brain and his rapid pulse, if only he\\ncould know that there were no swelling under the left arm but\\ndares he try in a moment of calmness and deliberation he\\ndares not, but when for a while he has writhed under the torture\\nof suspense, a sudden strength of will drives him to seek and\\nknow his fate he touches the gland and finds the skin sane and\\nsound, but under the cuticle there lies a small lump like a pistol\\nbullet that moves as he pushes it. Oh but is this for all cer-\\ntainty, is this the sentence of death feel the gland of the other\\narm there is not the same lump exactly, yet something a little\\nlike it have not some people glands naturally enlarged would\\nto Heaven he were one So he does for himself the work of the\\nPlague, and when the Angel of Death, thus courted, does indeed\\nand in truth come, he has only to finish that which has been so\\nwell begun he passes his fiery hand over the brain of the vic-\\ntim, and lets him rave for a season, but all chance-wise, of peo-\\nple and things once dear, or of people and things indifferent.\\nOnce more the poor fellow is back at his home in fair Provence,", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0182.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "chap, xviii.] CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n163\\nand sees the sun-dial that stood in his childhood s garden sees\\npart of his mother, and the long-since-forgotten face of that little\\ndead sister (he sees her, he says, on a Sunday morning, for all\\nthe church bells are ringing) he looks up and down through the\\nuniverse, and owns it well piled with bales upon bales of cotton,\\nand cotton eternal so much so, that he feels he knows he\\nswears that he could make that winning hazard, if the billiard\\ntable would not slant upwards, and if the cue were a cue worth\\nplaying with but it is not it s a cue that won t move his own\\narm won t move in short, there s the devil to pay in the brain\\nof the poor Levantine, and, perhaps, the next night but one he\\nbecomes the life and the soul of some squalling jackal\\nfamily, who fish him out by the foot from his shallow and sandy\\ngrave.\\nBetter fate was mine by some happy perverseness (occa-\\nsioned perhaps by my disgust at the notion of being received\\nwith a pair of tongs), I took it into my pleasant head that all the\\nEuropean notions about contagion were thoroughly unfounded\\nthat the Plague might be providential, or epidemic (as they\\nphrase it)., but was not contagious, and that I could not be killed\\nby the touch of a woman s sleeve, nor yet by her blessed breath.\\nI therefore determined that the Plague should not alter my habits\\nand amusements in any one respect. Though I came to this\\nresolve from impulse, I think that I took the course which was\\nin effect the most prudent, for the cheerfulness of spirits which\\nI was thus enabled to retain, discouraged the yellow- winged\\nAngel, and prevented him from taking a shot at me. I how-\\never so far respected the opinion of the Europeans, that I avoid-\\ned touching, when I could do so without privation or inconve-\\nnience. This endeavor furnished me with a sort of amusement\\nas I passed through the streets. The usual mode of moving\\nfrom place to place in the city of Cairo, is upon donkeys, of\\nwhich great numbers are always in readiness, with donkey-\\nboys attached. I had two who constantly (until one of them\\ndied of the Plague) waited at my door upon the chance of being\\nwanted. I found this way of moving about exceedingly plea-\\nsant, and never attempted any other. I had only to mount my\\nbeast, and tell my donkey boy the point for which I was bound,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0183.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "164\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nand instantly I began to glide on at a capital pace. The streets\\nof Cairo are not paved in any way, but strewed with a dry sandy\\nsoil so deadening to sound that the foot-fall of my donkey could\\nscarcely be heard. There is no trottoir, and as you ride\\nthrough the streets, you mingle with the people on foot those\\nwho are in your way, upon being warned by the shouts of the\\ndonkey-boy, move very slightly aside so as to leave you a nar-\\nrow lane through which you pass at a gallop. In this way you\\nglide on delightfully in the very midst of crowds, without being\\ninconvenienced or stopped for a moment it seems to you that it\\nis not the donkey but the donkey-boy who wafts you on with his\\nshouts through pleasant groups and air that feels thick with the\\nfragrance of burial spice. Eh Sheik, Eh Bint, regga-\\nlek shumalek, c, c. O old man, O virgin, get out of the\\nway on the right O virgin, O old man, get out of the way on\\nthe left, this Englishman comes, he comes, he comes The\\nnarrow alley which these shouts cleared for my passage made\\nit possible, though difficult, to go on for a long way without\\ntouching a single person, and my endeavors to avoid such con-\\ntact were a sort of game for me in my loneliness, which was\\nnot without interest. If I got through a street without being\\ntouched, I won if I was touched, I lost, lost a deuce* of a\\nstake, according to the theory of the Europeans, but that I\\ndeemed to be all nonsense, I only lost that game, and would\\ncertainly win the next.\\nThere is not much in the way of public buildings to admire\\nat Cairo, but I saw one handsome mosque, to which an instruc-\\ntive history is attached. A Hindostanee merchant, having\\namassed an immense fortune, settled in Cairo, and soon found\\nthat his riches in the then state of the political world gave him\\nvast power in the city power, however, the exercise of which\\nwas much restrained by the counteracting influence of other\\nwealthy men. With a view to extinguish every attempt at\\nrivalry the Hindostanee merchant built this magnificent mosque\\nat his own expense when the work was complete, he invited all\\nthe leading men of the city to join him in prayer within the\\nwalls of the newly built temple, and he then caused to be mas-\\nsacred all those who were sufficiently influential to cause him", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0184.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "chap, xviii.] CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n165\\nany jealousy or uneasiness in short, all the respectable men\\nof the place after this he possessed undisputed power in the\\ncity, and was greatly revered he is revered to this day. It\\nseemed to me that there was a touching simplicity in the mode\\nwhich this man so successfully adopted for gaining the confi-\\ndence and good will of his fellow-citizens. There seems to be\\nsome improbability in the story (though not nearly so gross as\\nit might appear to an European ignorant of the East, for wit-\\nness Mehemet Ali s destruction of the Mamelukes, a closely\\nsimilar act and attended with the like brilliant success*), but\\neven if the story be false, as a mere fact, it is perfectly true as\\nan illustration, it is a true exposition of the means by which\\nthe respect and affection of Orientals may be conciliated.\\nI ascended one day to the citadel, which commands a superb\\nview of the town. The fanciful and elaborate gilt- work of the\\nmany minarets gives a light and florid grace to the city as seen\\nfrom this height, but before you can look for many seconds at\\nsuch things, your eyes are drawn westward drawn westward,\\nand over the Nile, till they rest with a heavy stare upon the\\nmassive enormities of the Ghizeh pyramids. I saw within the\\nfortress many yoke of men, all haggard and wo-begone, and a\\nkennel of very fine lions well fed and flourishing I say yoke of\\nmen, for the poor fellows were working together in bonds I say\\na kennel of lions for the beasts were not enclosed in cages, but\\nsimply chained up like dogs.\\nI went round the Bazaars it seemed to me that pipes and\\narms were cheaper here than at Constantinople, and I should\\nadvise you therefore if you go to both places to prefer the market\\nof Cairo. I had previously bought several of such things at\\nConstantinople, and did not choose to encumber myself, or to\\nspeak more honestly I did not choose to disencumber my purse\\nby making any more purchases. In the open slave-market I\\nsaw about fifty girls exposed for sale, but all of them black, or\\n66 invisible brown. A slave agent took me to some rooms in\\nthe upper story of the building, and also into several obscure\\nMehemet Ali invited the Mamelukes to *k feast, and murdered them in\\nthe Banquet Hall.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0185.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "166\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nhouses in the neighborhood, with a view to show me some white\\nwomen. The owners raised various objections to the display of\\ntheir ware, and well they might, for I had not the least notion of\\npurchasing some refused on account of the illegality of the\\nproceeding,* and others declared that all transactions of this\\nsort were completely out of the question as long as the Plague\\nwas raging. I only succeeded in seeing one white slave who\\nwas for sale, but on this one the owner affected to set an immense\\nvalue, and raised my expectations to a high pitch, by saying\\nthat the girl was Circassian, and was fair as the full Moon. 55\\nAfter a good deal of delay, I was at last led into a room, at the\\nfarther end of which was that mass of white linen which indi-\\ncates an Eastern woman she was bid to uncover her face, and\\nI presently saw that though very far from being good looking\\naccording to my notion of beauty, she had not been inaptly\\ndescribed by the man, who compared her to the full Moon, for\\nher large face was perfectly round and perfectly white.\\nThough very young, she was nevertheless extremely fat. She\\ngave me the idea of having been got up for sale of having been\\nfattened and whitened by medicines, or by some peculiar diet.\\nI was firmly determined not to see any more of her than the\\nface she was perhaps disgusted at this my virtuous resolve, as\\nwell as with my personal appearance perhaps she saw my dis-\\ntaste and disappointment perhaps she wished to gain favor\\nwith her owner by showing her attachment to his faith at all\\nevents she holloaed out very lustily and very decidedly that\\nshe would not be bought by the Infidel.\\nWhilst I remained at Cairo, I thought it worth while to see\\nsomething of the Magicians, who may be considered as it were\\nthe descendants of those who contended so stoutly against the\\nsuperior power of Aaron. I therefore sent for an old man who\\nwas held to be the chief of the Magicians, and desired him to\\nshow me the wonders of his art. The old man looked and\\ndressed his character exceedingly well the vast turban, the\\nflowing beard, and the ample robes, were all that one could wish\\nin the way of appearance. The first experiment (a very stale\\nIt is not strictly lawful to sell white slaves to a Christian.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0186.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n167\\none), which he attempted to perform for me, was that of\\nattempting to show the forms and faces of my absent friends,\\nnot to me, but to a boy brought in from the streets for the pur-\\npose, and said to be chosen at random. A mangale (pan of\\nburning charcoal) was brought into my room, and the Magician\\nbending over it, sprinkled upon the fire some substances which\\nmust have consisted partly of spices, or sweetly burning woods,\\nfor immediately a fragrant smoke arose, which curled round the\\nbending form of the Wizard, the while that he pronounced his\\nfirst incantations when these were over, the boy was made to\\nsit down, and a common green shade was bound over his brow\\nthen the Wizard took ink, and still continuing his incantations,\\nwrote certain mysterious figures upon the boy s palm, and\\ndirected him to rivet his attention to these marks, without look-\\ning aside for an instant again the incantations proceeded, and\\nafter a while the boy being seemingly a little agitated, was asked\\nwhether he saw anything on the palm of his hand he declared\\nthat he saw a kind of military procession with flags and banners,\\nwhich he described rather minutely. I was then called upon\\nto name the absent person whose form was to be made visible.\\nI named Keate. You were not at Eton, and I must tell you,\\ntherefore, what manner of man it was that I named, though I\\nthink you must have some idea of him already, for wherever\\nfrom utmost Canada to Bundelcund wherever there was the\\nwhite-washed wall of an officer s room, or of any other apart-\\nment in which English gentlemen are forced to kick their heels,\\nthere, likely enough (in the days of his reign), the head of Keate\\nwould be seen scratched, or drawn with those various degrees of\\nskill which one observes in the representations of Saints. Any-\\nbody without the least notion of drawing could still draw a\\nspeaking, nay scolding likeness of Keate. If you had no pen-\\ncil, you could draw him well enough with a poker, or the leg of\\na chair, or the smoke of a candle. He was little more (if more\\nat all) than five feet in height, and was not very great in girth,\\nbut in this space was concentrated the pluck of ten battalions.\\nHe had a really noble voice, which he could modulate with great\\nskill, but he had also the power of quacking like an angry duck,\\nand he almost always adopted this mode of communication", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0187.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "166\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nin order to inspire respect he was a capital scholar, but his\\ningenuous learning had not softened his manners/ 5 and had\\npermitted them to be fierce tremendously fierce he had the\\nmost complete command over his temper I mean over his good\\ntemper, which he scarcely ever allowed to appear you could\\nnot put him out of humor that is out of the z7Z-humor which he\\nthought to be fitting for a head master. His red, shaggy eye-\\nbrows were so prominent, that he habitually used them as arms\\nand hands, for the purpose of pointing out any object towards\\nwhich he wished to direct atte ntion the rest of his features\\nwere equally striking in their way, and were all and all his\\nown he wore a fancy dress, partly resembling the costume of\\nNapoleon, and partly that of a widow-woman. I could not by\\nany possibility have named anybody more decidedly differing\\nin appearance from the rest of the human race.\\nWhom do you name? I name John Keate. Now\\nwhat do you see said the Wizard to the boy. I see, an-\\nswered the boy, I see a fair girl with golden hair, blue eyes,\\npallid face, rosy lips. There was a shot I shouted out my\\nlaughter to the horror of the Wizard, who, perceiving the gross-\\nness of his failure, declared that the boy must have known sin\\n(for none but the innocent can see truth), and accordingly kicked\\nhim down stairs.\\nOne or two other boys were tried, but none could see truth\\nthey all made sadly bad shots.\\nNotwithstanding the failure of these experiments, I wished to\\nsee what sort of mummery my Magician would practise if I\\ncalled upon him to show me some performances of a higher\\norder than those which had been attempted I therefore entered\\ninto a treaty with him, in virtue of which he was to descend\\nwith me into the tombs near the Pyramids, and there evoke the\\nDevil. The negotiation lasted some time, for Dthemetri, as in\\nduty bound, tried to beat down the Wizard as much as he could?\\nand the Wizard, on his part, manfully stuck up for his price,,\\ndeclaring that to raise the Devil was really no joke, and insinu-\\nating that to do so was an awesome crime. I let Dthemetri have\\nhis way in the negotiation, but I felt in reality very indifferent\\nabout the sum to be paid, and for this reason,, namely,, that the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0188.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "chap, xviii.] CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE,\\n169\\npayment (except a very small present, which I might make, or\\nnot, as I chose) was to be contingent on success. At length the\\nbargain was made, and it was arranged that after a few days to\\nbe allowed for preparation, the Wizard, should raise the Devil\\nfor two pounds ten, play or pay no Devil, no piastres.\\nThe Wizard failed to keep his appointment. I sent to know\\nwhy the deuce he had not come to raise the Devil. The truth\\nwas, that my Mahomet had gone to the mountain. The Plague\\nhad seized him, and he died.\\nAlthough the Plague had now spread terrible havoc around\\nhim, I did not see very plainly any corresponding change in the\\nlook of the streets until the seventh day after my arrival I then\\nfirst observed that the city was silenced. There were no out-\\nward signs of Despair, nor of violent terror, but many of the\\nvoices that had swelled the busy hum of men were already\\nhushed in death, and the survivors, so used to scream and\\nscreech in their earnestness whenever they bought or sold, now\\nshowed an unwonted indifference about the affairs of this world\\nit was less worth while for men to haggle, and haggle, and crack\\nthe sky with noisy bargains, when the Great Commander was\\nthere, who could pay all their debts with the roll of his drum. 7\\nAt this time (the year was 1835), I was informed that of\\ntwenty-five thousand people at Alexandria, twelve thousand had\\ndied already the Destroyer had come rather later to Cairo, but\\nthere was nothing of weariness in his strides. The deaths came\\nfaster than ever they befell in the Plague of London, but the\\ncalmness of Orientals under such visitations, and the habit of\\nusing biers for interment, instead of burying coffins along with\\nthe bodies, rendered it practicable to dispose of the Dead in the\\nusual way, without shocking the people by any unaccustomed\\nspectacle of horror. There was no tumbling of bodies into carts,\\nas in the Plague of Florence and the Plague of London every\\nman, according to his station, was properly buried, and that in\\nthe usual way, except that he went to his grave at a more hur-\\nried pace than might have been adopted under ordinary circum-\\nstances.\\nThe funerals, which poured through the streets, were not the\\nonly public evidence of deaths. In Cairo this custom prevails", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0189.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "170\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVIII.\\nat the instant of a man s death (if his property is sufficient to\\njustify the expense), professional howlers are employed; I be-\\nlieve that these persons are brought near to the dying man,\\nwhen his end appears to be approaching, and the moment that\\nlife is gone, they lift up their voices, and send forth a loud wail\\nfrom the chamber of Death. Thus I knew when my near\\nneighbors died sometimes the howls were near sometimes\\nmore distant. Once I was awakened in the night by the wail of\\ndeath in the next house, and another time by a like howl from\\nthe house opposite and there were two or three minutes, I\\nrecollect, during which the howl seemed to be actually running\\nalong the street.\\nI happened to be rather teazed at this time by a sore throat,\\nand I thought it would be well to get it cured, if I could, before\\nI again started on my travels. I therefore inquired for a Frank\\ndoctor, and was informed that the only one then at Cairo was a\\nyoung Bolognese Refugee, who was so poor that he had not been\\nable to take flight, as the other medical men had done. At such\\na time as this, it was out of the question to send for an European\\nphysician a person thus summoned would be sure to suppose\\nthat the patient was ill of the Plague, and would decline to come.\\nI therefore rode to the young Doctor s residence after expe-\\nriencing some little difficulty in finding where to look for him, I\\nascended a flight or two of stairs, and knocked at his door. No\\none came immediately, but after some little delay the Medico\\nhimself opened the door and admitted me. I, of course, made\\nhim understand that I had come to consult him, but before enter-\\ning upon my throat grievance, I accepted a chair, and exchanged\\na sentence or two of common-place conversation. Now, the\\nnatural common-place of the city at this season was of a gloomy\\nsort Come va la peste (how goes the plague and this was\\nprecisely the question I put. A deep sigh, and the words Sette\\ncento per giorno, Signor (seven hundred a day), pronounced in\\na tone of the deepest sadness and dejection, were the answer I\\nreceived. The day was not oppressively hot, yet I saw that the\\nDoctor was transpiring profusely, and even the outside surface\\nof the thick shawl dressing-gown, in which he had wrapped him-\\nself, appeared to be moist he was a handsome, pleasant-looking", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0190.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n171\\nyoung fellow, but the deep melancholy of his tone did not tempt\\nme to prolong the conversation, and without farther delay I re-\\nquested that my throat might be looked at. The Medico held\\nmy chin in the usual way, and examined my throat he then\\nwrote me a prescription, and almost immediately afterwards I\\nbid him farewell, but as he conducted me towards the door I\\nobserved an expression of strange and unhappy watchfulness in\\nhis rolling eyes. It was not the next day, but the next day but\\none, if I rightly remember, that I sent to request another inter-\\nview with my Doctor in due time Dthemetri, who was my\\nmessenger, returned, looking sadly aghast he had met the\\nMedico, for so he phrased it, coming out from his house in\\na bier\\nIt was of course plain that when the poor Bolognese was look-\\ning at my throat, and almost mingling his breath with mine, he\\nwas stricken of the Plague. I suppose that the violent sweat in\\nwhich I found him, had been produced by some medicine which\\nhe must have taken in the hope of curing himself. The\\npeculiar rolling of the eyes which I had remarked, is, I\\nbelieve, to experienced observers, a pretty sure test of the\\nPlague. A Russian acquaintance of mine, speaking from the\\ninformation of men who had made the Turkish campaigns of\\n1828 and 1829, told me that by this sign the officers of Sabal-\\nkansky s force were able to make out the Plague-stricken soldiers\\nwith a good deal of certainty.\\nIt so happened that most of the people with whom I had any-\\nthing to do, during my stay at Cairo, were seized with Plague,\\nand all these died. Since I had been for a long time en route\\nbefore I reached Egypt, and was about to start again for another\\nlong journey over the Desert, there were of course many little\\nmatters touching my wardrobe, and my travelling equipments,\\nwhich required to be attended to whilst I remained in the city.\\nIt happened so many times that Dthemetri s orders in respect to\\nthese matters were frustrated by the deaths of the tradespeople,\\nand others whom he employed, that at last I became quite ac-\\ncustomed to the peculiar manner which he assumed when he\\nprepared to announce a new death to me. The poor fellow na-\\nturally supposed that I should feel some uneasiness at hearing of", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0191.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "172\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XVIII.\\nthe accidents which happened to persons employed by me,\\nand he therefore communicated their deaths, as though they\\nwere the deaths of friends he would cast down his eyes,\\nand look like a man abashed, and then gently, and with a\\nmournful gesture allow the words, Morto, Signor, to come\\nthrough his lips. I don t know how many of such instan-\\nces occurred, but they were several, and besides these (as I\\ntold you before), my banker, my doctor, my landlord, and my\\nmagician, all died of the Plague. A lad who acted as a helper\\nin the house which I occupied, lost a brother and a sister within\\na few hours. Out of my two established donkey-boys one died.\\nI did not hear of any instance in which a plague-stricken patient\\nhad recovered.\\nGoing out one morning, I met unexpectedly the scorching\\nbreath of the Khamseen wind, and fearing that I should faint\\nunder the horrible sensations which it caused, I returned to my\\nrooms. Reflecting, however, that I might have to encounter\\nthis wind in the desert, where there would be no possibility of\\navoiding it, I thought it would be better to brave it once more\\nin the city, and to try whether I could really bear it or not. I\\ntherefore mounted my ass, and rode to old Cairo, and along the\\ngardens by the banks of the Nile. The wind was hot to the\\ntouch as though it came from a furnace it blew strongly, but\\nyet with such perfect steadiness, that the trees bending under its\\nforce remained fixed in the same curves without perceptibly\\nwaving the whole sky was obscured by a veil of yellowish\\ngrey, which shut out the face of the sun. The streets were\\nutterly silent, being indeed almost entirely deserted, and not\\nwithout cause, for the scorching blast, whilst it fevers the blood,\\ncloses up the pores of the skin, and is terribly distressing, there-\\nfore, to every animal that encounters it. I returned to my rooms\\ndreadfully ill. My head ached with a burning pain, and my\\npulse bounded quick, and fitfully, but perhaps (as in the instance\\nof the poor Levantine, whose death I was mentioning), the fear\\nand excitement which I felt in trying my own wrist, may have\\nmade my blood flutter the faster.\\nIt is a thoroughly well believed theory, that during the con-\\ntinuance of the Plague, you can t be ill of any other febrile", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0192.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XVIII.]\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n173\\nmalady an unpleasant privilege that for ill I was, and ill of\\nfever, and I anxiously wished that the ailment might turn out to\\nbe anything rather than Plague. I had some right to surmise\\nthat my illness may have been merely the effect of the hot wind,\\nand this notion was encouraged by the elasticity of my spirits,\\nand by a strong forefeeling that much of my destined life in this\\nworld was yet to come, and yet to be fulfilled. That was my\\ninstinctive belief, but when I carefully weighed the probabilities\\non the one side, and on the other, I could not help seeing that\\nthe strength of argument was all against me. There was a\\nstrong antecedent likelihood in favor of my being struck by the\\nsame blow, as the rest of the people who had been dying around\\nme. Besides, it occurred to me, that after all, the universal\\nopinion of the Europeans upon a medical question, such as that\\nof contagion, might probably be correct, and if it were, I was so\\nthoroughly compromised, and especially by the touch and\\nbreath of the dying Medico, that I had no right to expect any\\nother fate than that which now seemed to have overtaken me.\\nBalancing as well as I could all the considerations which hope\\nand fear suggested, I slowly and reluctantly came to the con-\\nclusion that according to all merely reasonable probability the\\nPlague had come upon me.\\nYou would suppose that this conviction would have induced\\nme to write a few farewell lines to those who were dearest, and\\nthat having done that, I should have turned my thoughts towards\\nthe world to come. Such however was not the case I believe\\nthat the prospect of death often brings with it strong anxieties\\nabout matters of comparatively trivial import, and certainly\\nwith me the whole energy of the mind was directed towards the\\none petty object of concealing my illness until the latest pos-\\nsible moment until the delirious stage. I did not believe that\\neither Mysseri, or Dthemetri, who had served me so faithfully\\nin all trials, would have deserted me (as most Europeans are\\nwont to do) when they knew that I was stricken by Plague, but\\nI shrank from the idea of putting them to this test, and I dreaded\\nthe consternation which the knowledge of my illness would be\\nsure to occasion.\\nI was very ill indeed at the moment when my dinner was", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0193.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "174\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nserved, and my soul sickened at the sight of the food, but I had\\nluckily the habit of dispensing with the attendance of servants\\nduring my meal, and as soon as I was left alone, I made a mel-\\nancholy calculation of the quantity of food which I should have\\neaten if I had been in my usual health, and filled my plates ac-\\ncordingly, and gave myself salt, and so on, as though I were\\ngoing to dine I then transferred the viands to a piece of the\\nomnipresent Times newspaper, and hid them away in a cup-\\nboard, for it was not yet night, and I dared not to throw the food\\ninto the street until darkness came. I did not at all relish this\\nprocess of fictitious dining, but at length the cloth was removed,\\nand I gladly reclined on my divan (I would not lie down), with\\nthe Arabian Nights in my hand.\\nI had a feeling that tea would be a capital thing for me, but I\\nwould not order it until the usual hour. When at last the time\\ncame, I drank deep draughts from the fragrant cup. The effect\\nwas almost instantaneous. A plenteous sweat burst through my\\nskin, and watered my clothes through and through. I kept my-\\nself thickly covered. The hot, tormenting weight which had\\nbeen loading my brain was slowly heaved away. The fever was\\nextinguished. I felt a new buoyancy of spirits, and an unusual\\nactivity of mind. I went into my bed under a load of thick\\ncovering, and when the morning came, and I asked myself how\\nI was, I found that I was thoroughly well.\\nI was very anxious to procure, if possible, some medical\\nadvice for Mysseri, whose illness prevented my departure.\\nEvery one of the European practising doctors, of whom there\\nhad been many, had either died or fled it was said, however,\\nthat there was an Englishman in the medical service of the\\nPasha, who quietly remained at his post, but that he never en-\\ngaged in private practice. I determined to try if I could obtain\\nassistance in this quarter. I did not venture at first, and at such\\na time as this, to ask him to visit a servant who was prostrate on\\nthe bed of sickness, but thinking that I might thus gain an op-\\nportunity of persuading him to attend Mysseri, I wrote a note\\nmentioning my own affair of the sore throat, and asking for the\\nbenefit of his medical advice he instantly followed back my\\nmessenger, and was at once shown up into my room I entreated", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0194.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "chap, xviii.] CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE.\\n175\\nhim to stand off, telling him fairly how deeply I was compro-\\nmised, and especially by my contact with a person actually ill,\\nand since dead of Plague. The generous fellow, with a good-\\nhumored laugh at the terrors of the contagionists, marched\\nstraight up to me, and forcibly seized my hand, and shook it\\nwith manly violence. I felt grateful indeed, and swelled with\\nfresh pride of race, because that my countryman could carry\\nhimself so nobly. He soon cured Mysseri, as well as me, and\\nall this he did from no other motives than the pleasure of doing\\na kindness, and the delight of braving a danger.\\nAt length the great difficulty* which I had had in procuring\\nbeasts for my departure was overcome, and now, too, I was to\\nhave the new excitement of travelling on dromedaries. With\\ntwo of these beasts, and three camels, I gladly wound my way\\nfrom out of the pest-stricken city. As I passed through the\\nstreets, I observed a fanatical-looking elder, who stretched forth\\nhis arms, and lifted up his voice in a speech which seemed to\\nhave some reference to me requiring an interpretation, I found\\nthat the man had said, The Pasha seeks camels, and he finds\\nthem not the Englishman says, let camels be brought, and\\nbehold there they are\\nI no sooner breathed the free, wholesome air of the desert,\\nthan I felt that a great burthen which I had been scarcely con-\\nscious of bearing, was lifted away from my mind. For nearly\\nthree weeks I had lived under peril of death the peril ceased,\\nand not till then did 1 know how much alarm and anxiety I had\\nreally been suffering.\\nThe difficulty was occasioned by the immense exertions which the Pasha\\nwas making to collect camels for military purposes.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0195.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "17G\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xviii.\\nCHAPTER XIX.\\nThe Pyramids.\\nI went to see, and to explore the Pyramids.\\nFamiliar to one from the days of early childhood are the forms\\nof the Egyptian Pyramids, and now, as I approached them from\\nthe banks of the Nile, I had no print, no picture before me, and\\nyet the old shapes were there there was no change they were\\njust as I had always known them. I straightened myself in my\\nstirrups, and strived to persuade my understanding that this was\\nreal Egypt, and that those angles which stood up between me\\nand the West were of harder stuff, and more ancient than the\\npaper pyramids of the green portfolio. Yet it was not till I\\ncame to the base of the great Pyramid, that reality began to\\nweigh upon my mind. Strange to say, the bigness of the dis-\\ntinct blocks of stone was the first sign by which I attained to feel\\nthe immensity of the whole pile. When I came, and trod, and\\ntouched with my hands, and climbed, in order that by climbing\\nI might come to the top of one single stone, then, and almost\\nsuddenly, a cold sense and understanding of the Pyramid s\\nenormity came down overcasting my brain.\\nNow try to endure this homely, sick-nursish illustration of the\\neffect produced upon one s mind by the mere vastness of the great\\nPyramid when I was very young (between the ages, I believe,\\nof three and five years old), being then of delicate health, I was\\noften in time of night the victim of a strange kind of mental\\noppression I lay in my bed perfectly conscious, and with open\\neyes, but without power to speak, or to move, and all the while\\nmy brain was oppressed to distraction by the presence of a single\\nand abstract idea, the idea of solid Immensity. It seemed to\\nme in my agonies, that the horror of this visitation arose from\\nits coming upon me without form or shape that the close", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0196.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XIX.]\\nTHE PYRAMIDS.\\n177\\npresence of the direst monster ever bred in Hell would have\\nbeen a thousand times more tolerable, than that simple idea of\\nsolid size my aching mind was fixed, and riveted down upon\\nthe mere quality of vastness, vastness, vastness and was not\\npermitted to invest with it any particular object. If I could have\\ndone so, the torment would have ceased. When at last I was\\nroused from this state of suffering, I could not of course in those\\ndays (knowing no verbal metaphysics, and no metaphysics at all,\\nexcept by the dreadful experience of an abstract idea), I could\\nnot of course find words to describe the nature of my sensations,\\nand even now I cannot explain why it is that the forced con-\\ntemplation of a mere quality, distinct from matter, should be so\\nterrible. Well, now- my eyes saw and knew, and my hands\\nand my feet informed my understanding, that there was nothing\\nat all abstract about the great Pyramid, it was a big triangle,\\nsufficiently concrete, easy to see, and rough to the touch it\\ncould not, of course, affect me with the peculiar sensation which\\nI have been talking of, but yet there was something akin to that\\nold night-mare agony in the terrible completeness with which a\\nmere mass of masonry could fill and load my mind.\\nAnd Time too the remoteness of its origin, no less than the\\nenormity of its proportions, screens an Egyptian Pyramid from\\nthe easy and familiar contact of our modern minds at its base\\nthe common Earth ends, and all above is a world one not created\\nof God, not seeming to be made by men s hands, but rather,\\nthe shear giant- work of some old dismal age weighing down this\\nyounger planet.\\nFine sayings but the truth seems to be, after all, that the\\nPyramids are quite of this world that they were piled up into\\nthe air for the realization of some kingly crotchets about immor-\\ntality, some priestly longing for burial fees and that as for the\\nbuilding they were built like coral rocks by swarms of insects,\\nby swarms of poor Egyptians, who were not only the abject\\ntools and slaves of power, but who also eat onions for the reward\\nof their immortal labors The Pyramids are quite of this\\nworld.\\nHerodotus, in an after age, stood by with his note book, and got, as he\\nthought, the exact returns of all the rations served out.\\n13", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0197.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "178\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xix.\\nI of course ascended to the summit of the great Pyramid, and\\nalso explored its chambers, but these I need not describe. The\\nfirst time that I went to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, there were a\\nnumber of Arabs hanging about in its neighborhood, and want-\\ning to receive presents on various pretences their Sheik was\\nwith them. There was also present an ill looking fellow in\\nsoldier s uniform. This man on my departure claimed a reward,\\non the ground that he had maintained order and decorum\\namongst the Arabs his claim was not considered valid by my\\nDragoman, and was rejected accordingly my donkey-boys after-\\nwards said they had overheard this fellow propose to the Sheik\\nto put me to death whilst I was in the interior of the great\\nPyramid, and to share with him the booty fancy a struggle for\\nlife in one of those burial chambers, with acres and acres of solid\\nmasonry between oneself and the daylight I felt exceedingly\\nglad that I had not made the rascal a present.\\nI visited the very ancient Pyramids of Aboucir and Sakka-\\nra there are many of these, and of various shapes and sizes,\\nand it struck me that taken together they might be considered\\nas showing the progress and perfection (such as it is) of Pyra-\\nmidical Architecture. One of the Pyramids at Sakkara is\\nalmost a rival for the full grown monster of Ghizeh others are\\nscarcely more than vast heaps of brick and stone these last\\nsuggested to me the idea that* after all the Pyramid is nothing\\nmore nor less than a variety of the sepulchral mound so com-\\nmon in most countries (including I believe Hindostan, from\\nwhence the Egyptians are supposed to have come). Men ac-\\ncustomed to raise these structures for their dead Kings, or con-\\nquerors, would carry the usage with them in their migrations,\\nbut arriving in Egypt, and seeing the impossibility of finding\\nearth sufficiently tenacious for a mound, they would approxi-\\nmate as nearly as might be to their ancient custom by raising\\nup a round heap of these stones, in short, conical pyramids\\nof these there are several at Sakkara, and the materials of some\\nare thrown together without any order or regularity. The\\ntransition from this simple form to that of the square angular\\npyramid, was easy and natural, and it seemed to me that the\\ngradations through which the style passed from infancy up to its\\nmature enormity, could plainly be traced at Sakkara.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0198.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XX.]\\nTHE SPHYNX.\\n179\\nCHAPTER XX.\\nThe Sphynx.\\nAnd near the Pyramids, more wondrous, and more awful than\\nall else in the land of Egypt, there sits the lonely Sphynx.\\nComely the creature is, but the comeliness is not of this world\\nthe once worshipped beast is a deformity and a monster to this\\ngeneration, and yet you can see that those lips, so thick and\\nheavy, were fashioned according to some ancient mould of\\nbeauty some mould of beauty now forgotten forgotten be-\\ncause that Greece drew forth Cytherea from the flashing foam of\\nthe JEgean, and in her image created new forms of beauty, and\\nmade it a law among men that the short and proudly wreathed\\nlip should stand for the sign and the main condition of loveli-\\nness, through all generations to come. Yet still there lives on\\nthe race of those who were beautiful in the fashion of the elder\\nworld, and Christian girls of Coptic blood, will look on you with\\nthe sad, serious gaze, and kiss you your charitable hand with\\nthe big, pouting lips of the very Sphynx.\\nLaugh, and mock if you will at the worship of stone idols,\\nbut mark ye this, ye breakers of images, that in one regard, the\\nstone idol bears awful semblance of Deity unchangefulness in\\nthe midst of change the same seeming will and intent for ever\\nand ever inexorable Upon ancient dynasties of Ethiopian and\\nEgyptian Kings upon Greek and Roman, upon Arab and\\nOttoman conquerors upon Napoleon dreaming of an Eastern\\nEmpire upon battle and pestilence upon the ceaseless misery\\nof the Egyptian race upon keen-eyed travellers Herodotus\\nyesterday, and Warburton* to-day upon all, and more this un-\\nEliot Warburton, who is known to be the author of those brilliantly\\nsparkling papers, the Episodes of Eastern Travel, which lit up our last\\nNovember. His book The Crescent and the Cross must, and will be\\ncapital.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0199.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "ISO\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xx.\\nworldly Sphynx has watched, and watched like a Providence\\nwith the same earnest eyes, and the same sad, tranquil mien.\\nAnd we, we shall die, and Islam will wither away, and the\\nEnglishman, leaning far over to hold his loved India, will plant\\na firm foot on the banks of the Nile, and sit in the seats of the\\nFaithful, and still that sleepless rock will lie watching and\\nwatching the works of the new, busy race, with those same sad,\\nearnest eyes, and the same tranquil mien everlasting. You\\ndare not mock at the Sphynx.\\n4ft", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0200.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "chap, xxi.] CAIRO TO SUEZ. 181\\nCHAPTER XXI.\\nCairo to Suez.\\nThe Dromedary of Egypt and Syria, is not the two-humped\\nanimal described by that name in books of natural history, but\\nis in fact of the same family as the camel, to which it stands in\\nabout the same relation as a racer to a cart-horse. The fleet-\\nness and endurance of this creature are extraordinary. It is\\nnot usual to force him into a gallop, and I fancy from his make\\nthat it would be quite impossible for him to maintain that pace\\nfor any length of time, but the animal is on so large a scale\\nthat the jog-trot at which he is generally ridden implies a pro-\\ngress of perhaps ten or twelve miles an hour, and this pace, it\\nis said, he can keep up incessantly without food, or water, or\\nrest, for three whole days and nights.\\nOf the two dromedaries which I had obtained for this journey,\\nI mounted one myself, and put Dthemetri on the other. My\\nplan was, to ride on with Dthemetri to Suez as rapidly as the\\nfleetness of the beasts would allow, and to let Mysseri (who was\\nstill weak from the effects of his late illness) come quietly on\\nwith the camels and baggage.\\nThe trot of the Dromedary is a pace terribly disagreeable to\\nthe rider, until he becomes a little accustomed to it but after\\nthe first half hour I so far schooled myself to this new exercise,\\nthat I felt capable of keeping it up (though not without aching\\nlimbs) for several hours together. Now, therefore, I was anx-\\nious to dart forward, and annihilate at once the whole space that\\ndivided me from the Red Sea. Dthemetri, however, could not\\nget on at all every attempt which he made to trot seemed to\\nthreaten the utter dislocation of his whole frame, and indeed I\\ndoubt whether any one of Dthemetri s age (nearly forty I think)\\nand unaccustomed to such exercise, could have borne it at all", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0201.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "182\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxi.\\neasily besides, the dromedary which fell to his lot was evi-\\ndently a very bad one he every now and then came to a dead\\nstop, and coolly knelt down as though suggesting that the rider\\nhad better get off at once, and abandon the attempt as one that\\nwas utterly hopeless.\\nWhen for the third or fourth time I saw Dthemetri thus planted,\\nI lost my patience, and went on without him. For about two hours,\\nI think, I advanced without once looking behind me. I then\\npaused, and cast my eyes back to the western horizon. There\\nwas no sign of Dthemetri, nor of any other living creature.\\nThis I expected, for I knew that I must have far out-distanced\\nall my followers. I had ridden away from my party merely by\\nway of gratifying my impatience, and with the intention of\\nstopping as soon as I felt tired, until I was overtaken. I now\\nobserved, however (which I had not been able to do whilst ad-\\nvancing so rapidly), that the track which I had been following\\nwas seemingly the track of only one or two camels. I did not\\nfear that I had diverged very largely from the true route, but\\nstill I could not feel any reasonable certainty, that my party\\nwould follow any line of march within sight of me.\\nI had to consider, therefore, whether I should remain where I\\nwas, upon the chance of seeing my people come up, or whether\\nI would push on alone, and find my way to Suez. I had now\\nlearned that I could not rely upon the continued guidance of any\\ntrack, but I knew that (if maps were right) the point for which\\nI was bound bore just due East of Cairo, and I thought that\\nalthough I might miss the line leading most directly to Suez, I\\ncould not well fail to find my way sooner or later to the Red\\nSea. The worst of it was that I had no provision of food or\\nwater with me, and already I was beginning to feel thirst. I\\ndeliberated for a minute, and then determined that I would\\nabandon all hope of seeing my party again in the desert, and\\nwould push forward as rapidly as possible towards Suez.\\nIt was not, I confess, without a sensation of awe that I swept\\nwith my sight the vacant round of the horizon, and remembered\\nthat I was all alone and unprovisioned in the midst of the arid\\nwaste but this very awe gave tone and zest to the exultation\\nwith which I felt myself launched. Hitherto, in all my wander-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0202.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXI.]\\nCAIRO TO SUEZ.\\n183\\nings I had been under the care of other people sailors, Tatars,\\nguides and Dragomen had watched over my welfare, but now at\\nlast, I was here in this African desert, and I myself, and no other,\\nhad charge of my life I liked the office well I had the great-\\nest part of the day before me, a very fair dromedary, a fur pe-\\nlisse, and a brace of pistols, but no bread, and no water for\\nthat I must ride, and ride I did.\\nFor several hours I urged forward my beast at a rapid,\\nthough steady pace, but now the pangs of thirst began to tor-\\nment me. I did not relax my pace, however, and I had not suf-\\nfered long, when a moving object appeared in the distance be-\\nfore me. The intervening space was soon traversed, and I\\nfound myself approaching a Bedouin Arab mounted on a camel,\\nattended by another Bedouin on foot. They stopped. I saw\\nthat, as usual, there hung from the pack-saddle of the camel, a\\nlarge skin water-flask which seemed to be well filled I steered\\nmy dromedary close up alongside of the mounted Bedouin,\\ncaused my beast to kneel down, then alighted, and keeping the\\nend of the halter in my hand, went up to the mounted Bedouin\\nwithout speaking, took hold of his water-flask, opened it, and\\ndrank long and deep from its leathern lips. Both of the Be-\\ndouins stood fast in amazement and mute horror, and really if\\nthey had never happened to see an European before, the appari-\\ntion was enough to startle them. To see for the first time a coat\\nand a waistcoat with the pale semblance of a human head at\\nthe top, and for this ghastly figure to come swiftly out of the\\nhorizon, upon a fleet dromedary approach them silently, and\\nwith a demoniacal smile, and drink a deep draught from their\\nwater-flask this was enough to make the Bedouins stare a\\nlittle they, in fact, stared a great deal not as Europeans stare,\\nwith a restless and puzzled expression of countenance, but with\\nfeatures all fixed, and rigid, and with still, glassy eyes before\\nthey had time to get decomposed from their state of petrifaction, I\\nhad remounted my dromedary, and was darting away towards\\nthe East.\\nWithout pause, or remission of pace, I continued to press for-\\nward, but after a while, I found to my confusion, that the slight\\ntrack, which had hitherto guided me, now failed altogether I", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0203.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "184\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXI.\\nbegan to fear that I must have been all along following the\\ncourse of some wandering Bedouins, and I felt that if this were\\nthe case, my fate was a little uncertain. To comfort myself, I\\nbegan to nurse up a theory that death by thirst was not so terri-\\nble as inexperienced people were apt to imagine. (Say what\\nyou will, there is comfort in theories some of the repudiating\\nAmericans of the United States entertain a theory that they are\\ndistinguishable from common swindlers, and the national pride\\nof the young Republic is wholly supported by the indulgence\\nof this singular fancy.)\\nI had no compass with me, but I determined upon the eastern\\npoint of the horizon as accurately as I could, by reference to the\\nsun, and so laid down for myself a way over the pathless sands.\\nBut now my poor dromedary, by whose life and strength I held\\nmy own, she began to show signs of distress a thick, clammy,\\nand glutinous kind of foam gathered about her lips, and piteous\\nsobs burst from her bosom in the tones of human misery I\\ndoubted for a moment, whether I would give her a little rest, or\\nrelaxation of pace, but I decided that I would not, and continued\\nto push forward as steadily as before.\\nThe character of the country became changed I had ridden\\naway from the level tracts, and before me now, and on either\\nside, there were vast hills of sand, and calcined rocks that inter-\\nrupted my progress, and baffled my doubtful road, but I did my\\nbest with rapid steps 1 swept round the base of the hills,\\nthreaded the winding hollows, and at last, as I rose in my swift\\ncourse to the crest of a lofty ridge, Thalatta Thalatta by\\nJove I saw the Sea\\nMy tongue can tell where to find the clue to many an old pagan\\ncreed, because that (distinctly from all mere admiration of the\\nbeauty belonging to Nature s works) I acknowledge a sense of\\nmystical reverence, when first I look to see some illustrious\\nfeature of the globe some coast-line of Ocean some mighty\\nriver or dreary mountain range, the ancient barrier of kingdoms.\\nBut the Red Sea It might well claim my earnest gaze by force\\nof the great Jewish migration which connects it with the history\\nof our own Religion. From this very ridge, it is likely enough,\\nthe panting Israelites first saw that shining inlet of the sea. Ay", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0204.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXI.]\\nCAIRO TO SUEZ.\\n185\\nay but moreover, and best of all, that beckoning Sea assured\\nmy eyes, and proved how well I had marked out the East for my\\npath, and gave me good promise that sooner or later the time\\nwould come for me to rest and drink. It was distant, the Sea,\\nbut I felt my own strength, and I had heard of the strength of\\ndromedaries. I pushed forward as eagerly as though I had\\nspoiled the Egyptians, and were flying from Pharaoh s police.\\nI had not yet been able to discover any symptoms of Suez,\\nbut after a while I descried in the distance a large, blank, iso-\\nlated building I made towards this, and in time got down to it.\\nThe building was a fort, and had been built there for the protec-\\ntion of a well, which it contained within its precincts. A cluster\\nof small huts adhered to the fort, and in a short time I was\\nreceiving the hospitality of the inhabitants who were grouped\\nupon the sands near their hamlet. To quench the fires of my\\nthroat with about a gallon of muddy water, and to swallow a\\nlittle of the food placed before me, was the work of few minutes,\\nand before the astonishment of my hosts had even begun to sub-\\nside, I was pursuing my onward journey. Suez, I found, was\\nstill three hours distant, and the Sun going down in the West\\nwarned me that I must find some other guide to keep me in the\\nright direction. This guide I found in the most fickle and un-\\ncertain of the elements. For some hours the wind had been\\nfreshening, and it now blew a violent gale it blew not fitfully,\\nand in squalls, but with such remarkable steadiness that I felt\\nconvinced it would come from the same quarter for several\\nhours. When the Sun set, therefore, I carefully looked for the\\npoint from which the wind was blowing, and found that it came\\nfrom the very West, and was blowing exactly in the direction of\\nmy route. I had nothing to do therefore but to go straight to\\nleeward, and this was not difficult, for the gale blew with such\\nimmense force that if I diverged at all from its line I instantly\\nfelt the pressure of the blast on the side towards which I was\\ndeviating. Very soon after sun-set there came on complete\\ndarkness, but the strong wind guided me well, and sped me, too,\\non my way.\\nI had pushed on for about, I think, a couple of hours after\\nnight-fall, when I saw the glimmer of a light in the distance, and", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0205.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "186\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxi.\\ntliis I vontarcd to hope must be Suez. Upon approaehing it,\\nhowever, I found that it was only a solitary fort, and I passed on\\nwithout stopping.\\nOn I went, still riding down the wind, when an unlucky acci-\\ndent occurred, for which, if you like, you can have your laugh\\nagainst me. I have told you already what sort of lodging it is\\nwhich you have upon the back of a camel. You ride the drome-\\ndary in the same fashion you are perched rather than seated\\nupon a bunch of carpets or quilts upon the summit of the hump.\\nIt happened that my dromedary veered rather suddenly from her\\nonward course meeting the movement, I mechanically turned\\nmy left wrist as though I were holding a bridle rein, for the com-\\nplete darkness prevented my eyes from reminding me that I had\\nnothing but a halter in my hand the expected resistance failed,\\nfor the halter was hanging upon that side of the dromedary s\\nneck towards which I was slightly leaning I toppled over, head\\nforemost, and then went falling and falling through air till my\\ncrown came whang against the ground. And the ground too\\nwas perfectly hard (compacted sand), but the thickly wadded\\nhead-gear which I wore for protection against the sun saved my\\nlife. The notion of my being able to get up again after falling\\nhead-foremost from such an immense height seemed to me at first\\ntoo paradoxical to be acted upon, but I soon found that I was not\\na bit hurt. My dromedary utterly vanished I looked round me\\nand saw the glimmer of a light in the fort which I had lately\\npassed, and I began to work my way back in that direction.\\nThe violence of the gale made it hard for me to force my way\\ntowards the West, but I succeeded at last in regaining the fort.\\nTo this, as to the other fort which I had passed, there was\\nattached a cluster of huts, and I soon found myself surrounded\\nby a group of villanous, gloomy-looking fellows. It was a\\nhorrid bore for me to have to swagger and look big at a time\\nwhen I felt so particularly small on account of my tumble, and\\nmy lost dromedary, but there was no help for it I had no\\nDthemetri now to strike terror for me. I knew hardly one\\nword of Arabic, but somehow or other I contrived to announce\\nit as my absolute will and pleasure that these fellows should find\\nme the means of gaining Suez. They acceded, and having a", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0206.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXI.]\\nCAIRO TO SUEZ.\\n187\\ndonkey, they saddled it for me, and appointed one of ihoir num-\\nber to attend me on foot.\\nI afterwards found that these fellows were not Arabs, but\\nAlgerine refugees, and that they bore the character of being sad\\nscoundrels. They justified this imputation to some extent on the\\nfollowing day. They allowed Mysseri with my baggage, and\\nthe camels, to pass unmolested, but an Arab lad belonging to the\\nparty happened to lag a little way in the rear, and him (if they\\nwere not maligned) these rascals stripped and robbed. Low in-\\ndeed is the state of bandit morality, when men will allow the\\nsleek traveller with well laden camels to pass in quiet, reserving\\ntheir spirit of enterprise for the tattered turban of a miserable\\nboy.\\nI reached Suez at last. The British Agent, though roused\\nfrom his midnight sleep, received me in his home with the utmost\\nkindness and hospitality. Oh by Jove, how delightful it was to\\nlie on fair sheets, and to dally with sleep, and to wake, and to\\nsleep, and to wake once more, for the sake of sleeping again", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0207.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN. [chap. xxii.\\nCHAPTER XXII.\\nSuez.\\nI was hospitably entertained by the British Consul or Agent, as he\\nis there styled he is the employe of the East India Company,\\nand not of the Home Government. Napoleon, during his stay of\\nfive days at Suez, had been the guest of the Consul s father, and\\nI was told that the divan in my apartment had been the bed of\\nthe great Commander.\\nThere are two opinions as to the point at which the Israelites\\npassed the Red Sea one is that they traversed only the very\\nsmall creek at the Northern extremity of the inlet, and that they\\nentered the bed of the water at the spot on which Suez now\\nstands the other that they crossed the sea from a point eighteen\\nmiles down the coast. The Oxford theologians who, with Mil-\\nman their Professor,* believe that Jehovah conducted his chosen\\npeople without disturbing the order of Nature, adopt the first\\nview, and suppose that the Israelites passed during an ebb tide\\naided by a violent wind. One among many objections to this\\nsupposition is, that the time of a single ebb would not have been\\nsufficient for the passage of that vast multitude of men and\\nbeasts, or even for a small fraction of it. Moreover the creek\\nto the north of this point can be compassed in an hour, and in\\ntwo hours you can make the circuit of the salt marsh over which\\nthe sea may have extended in former times if therefore the\\nIsraelites crossed so high up as Suez, the Egyptians, unless in-\\nfatuated by divine interference, might easily have recovered their\\nstolen goods from the encumbered fugitives, by making a slight\\ndetour. The opinion which fixes the point of passage at eighteen\\nmiles distance, and from thence right across the Ocean depths to\\nSee Milman s History of the Jews. 1st Edit. Family Library.\\nISS", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0208.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXII.]\\nSUEZ.\\n189\\nthe Eastern side of the sea, is supported by the unanimous tra-\\ndition of the people, whether Christians or Mussulmans, and is\\nconsistent with Holy writ the waters were a wall unto them\\non their right hand, and on their left The Cambridge Mathe-\\nmaticians seem to think that the Israelites were enabled to pass\\nover dry land by adopting a route not usually subject to the\\ninflux of the Sea this notion is plausible in a merely hydrosta-\\ntical point of view, and is supposed to have been adopted by\\nmost of the fellows of Trinity, but certainly not by Thorp, who\\nis one of the most amiable of their number it is difficult to\\nreconcile this theory with the account given in Exodus, unless\\nwe can suppose that the words sea and waters are there\\nused in a sense implying dry land.\\nNapoleou, when at Suez, made an attempt to follow the sup-\\nposed steps of Moses by passing the creek at this point, but it\\nseems, according to the testimony of the people at Suez, that he\\nand his horsemen managed the matter in a way more resembling\\nthe failure of the Egyptians, than the success of the Israelites.\\nAccording to the French account, Napoleon got out of the diffi-\\nculty by that warrior-like presence of mind which served him\\nso well when the fate of nations depended on the decision of a\\nmoment he ordered his horsemen to disperse in all directions,\\nin order to multiply the chances of finding shallow water, and\\nwas thus enabled to discover a line by which he and his people\\nwere extricated. The story told by the people of Suez is very\\ndifferent they declare that Napoleon parted from his horse, got\\nthoroughly submerged, and was only fished out by the assistance\\nof the people on shore.\\nI bathed twice at the point assigned to the passage of the\\nIsraelites, and the second time that I did so, I chose the time of\\nlow water, and tried to walk across, but I soon found myself out\\nof my depth, or at least in water so deep that I could only\\nadvance by swimming.\\nThe dromedary which had bolted into the Desert, was brought\\ninto Suez the day after my arrival, but my pelisse and my pis-\\ntols, which had been attached to the saddle, had disappeared\\nthese articles were treasures of great importance to me at that\\ntime, and I moved the Governor of the town to make all possible", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0209.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "190\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxii.\\nexertions for their recovery he acceded to my wishes as well\\nas he could, and very obligingly imprisoned the first seven poor\\nfellows he could lay his hands on.\\nAt first the Governor acted in the matter from no other mo-\\ntive than that of courtesy to an English traveller, but afterwards,\\nand when he saw the value which I set upon the lost property,\\nhe pushed his measures with a degree of alacrity and heat,\\nwhich seemed to show that he felt a personal interest in the mat-\\nter it was supposed either that he expected a large present in\\nthe event of succeeding, or that he was striving by all means to\\ntrace the property in order that he might lay his hands on it after\\nmy departure.\\nI went out sailing for some hours, and when I returned I was\\nhorrified to find that two men had been bastinadoed by order of\\nthe Governor, with a view to force them to a confession of their\\ntheft. It appeared, however, that there really was good ground\\nfor supposing them guilty, since one of the holsters was actually\\nfound in their possession. It was said, too (but I could hardly\\nbelieve it), that whilst one of the men was undergoing the bas-\\ntinado, his comrade was overheard encouraging him to bear the\\ntorment without peaching. Both men, if they had the secret,\\nwere resolute in keeping it, and were sent back to their dungeon.\\nI, of course, took care that there should be no repetition of the\\ntorture, at least as long as I remained at Suez.\\nThe Governor was a thorough Oriental, and until a com-\\nparatively recent period had shared in the old Mahometan feel-\\ning of contempt for Europeans. It happened, however, one day\\nthat an English gun-brig had appeared off Suez, and sent her\\nboats ashore to take in fresh water. Now fresh water at Suez\\nis a somewhat scarce and precious commodity it is kept in\\ntanks, the chief of which is at some distance from the place.\\nUnder these circumstances the request for fresh water was\\nrefused, or at all events was not complied with. The Cap-\\ntain of the brig was a simple-minded man, with a strongish\\nwill, and he at once declared that if his casks were not filled\\nin three hours, he would destroy the whole place. A great\\npeople indeed said the Governor a wonderful people, the\\nEnglish He instantly caused every cask to be filled to the", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0210.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXII.]\\nSUEZ.\\n19J\\nbrim from his own tank, and ever afterwards entertained for the\\nEnglish a degree of affection and respect for which I felt in-\\nfinitely indebted to the gallant Captain.\\nThe day after the abortive attempt to extract a confession\\nfrom the prisoners, the Governor, the Consul and I, sat in Council,\\nI know not how long, with a view of prosecuting the search for\\nthe stolen goods. The sitting, considered in the light of a crim-\\ninal investigation, was characteristic of the East. The proceed-\\nings began as a matter of course by the Prosecutor s smoking a\\npipe, and drinking coffee with the Governor, who was Judge,\\nJury, and Sheriff. I got on very well with him (this was not\\nmy first interview), and he gave me the pipe from his lips in\\ntestimony of his friendship. I recollect, however, that my prime\\nadviser, thinking me, I suppose, a great deal too shy and retiring\\nin my manner, entreated me to put up my boots, and to soil the\\nGovernor s divan, in order to inspire respect, and strike terror.\\nI thought it would be as well for me to retain the right of res-\\npecting myself, and that it was not quite necessary for a well\\nreceived guest to strike any terror at all.\\nOur deliberations were assisted by the numerous attendants\\nwho lined the three sides of the room not occupied by the divan.\\nAny one of these who took it into his head to offer a suggestion,\\nwould stand forward, and humble himself before the Governor,\\nand then state his views, which were always more or less attend-\\ned to.\\nAfter a great deal of fruitless planning, the Governor directed\\nthat the prisoners should be brought in. I was shocked when\\nthey entered, for I was not prepared to see them come carried\\ninto the room upon the shoulders of others. It had not occurred\\nto me that their battered feet would be too sore to bear the con-\\ntact of the floor. They persisted in asserting their innocence.\\nThe Governor wanted to recur to the torture, but that I pre-\\nvented, and the men were carried back to their dungeon.\\nA scheme was now suggested by one of the attendants which\\nseemed to me childishly absurd, but it was nevertheless tried.\\nThe plan was to send a man to the prisoners, who was to make\\nthem believe that he had obtained entrance into their dungeon\\nupon some otl^er pretence, but that he had in reality come to", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0211.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "192\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXII.\\ntreat with them for the purchase of the stolen goods. This\\nshallow expedient of course failed.\\nThe Governor himself had not nominally the power of life\\nand death over the people in his district, but he could if he chose\\nsend them to Cairo, and have them hanged there. I proposed\\ntherefore that the prisoners should be threatened with this fate.\\nThe answer of the Governor made me feel rather ashamed of\\nmy effeminate suggestion he said that if I wished it he would\\nwillingly threaten them with death, but he also said that if he\\nthreatened, lie should execute the threat.\\nThinking at last that nothing was to be gained by keeping the\\nprisoners any longer in confinement, I requested that they might\\nbe set free. To this the Governor acceded, though only, as he\\nsaid, out of favor to me, for he had a strong impression that the\\nmen were guilty. I went down to see the prisoners let out with\\nmy own eyes. They were very grateful, and fell down to the\\nearth, kissing my boots. I gave them a present to console them\\nfor their wounds, and they seemed to be highly delighted.\\nAlthough the matter terminated in a manner so satisfactory to\\nthe principal sufferers, there were symptoms of some angry ex-\\ncitement in the place it was said that public opinion was much\\nshocked at the fact that Mahometans had been beaten on ac-\\ncount of a loss sustained by a Christian. My journey was to\\nrecommence the next day, and it was hinted that if I persever-\\ned in my intention of proceeding, the people would have an\\neasy and profitable opportunity of wreaking their vengeance on\\nme. If ever they formed any scheme of the kind, they at all\\nevents refrained from any attempt to carry it into effect.\\nOne of the evenings during my stay at Suez was enlivened\\nby a triple wedding. There was a long and slow procession.\\nSome carried torches, and others were thumping drums, and\\nfiring pistols. The bridegrooms came last, all walking abreast\\nmy only reason for mentioning the ceremony (which was other-\\nwise uninteresting) is that I scarcely ever in all my life saw any\\nphenomena so ridiculous, as the meekness and gravity of those\\nthree young men, whilst being led to the altar.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0212.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXIII.]\\nSUEZ TO GAZA.\\n193\\nCHAPTER XXIII.\\nSuez to Gaza.\\nThe route over the Desert from Suez to Gaza is not frequented\\nby merchants, and is seldom passed by a traveller. This part\\nof the country is less uniformly barren than the tracts of shifting\\nsand which lie on the El Arish route. The shrubs on which the\\ncamels feed are more frequent, and there are many spots on\\nwhich the sand is mingled with so much of productive soil as to\\nadmit the growth of corn. The Bedouins are driven out of this\\ndistrict during the summer by the total want of water, but be-\\nfore the time for their forced departure arrives, they succeed in\\nraising little crops of barley from these comparatively fertile\\npatches of ground they bury the fruit of their labors, leaving\\nmarks by which, upon their return, they may be able to recog-\\nnize the spot. The warm dry sand stands them for a safe gra-\\nnary. The country, at the time I passed it (in the month of\\nApril), was pretty thickly sprinkled with Bedouins expecting\\ntheir harvest several times my tent was pitched along side of\\ntheir encampments I have told you already what the impres-\\nsions were which these people produced upon my mind.\\nI saw several creatures of the antelope kind in this part of the\\nDesert, and one day my Arabs surprised in her sleep, a young\\ngazelle (for so I call her), and took the darling prisoner. I\\ncarried her before me on my camel for the rest of the day, and\\nkept her in my tent all night I did all I could to coax her, but\\nthe trembling beauty refused to touch food, and would not be\\ncomforted whenever she had a seeming opportunity of escap-\\ning, she struggled with a violence so painfully disproportioned\\nto her fine, delicate limbs, that I could not continue the cruel\\nattempt to make her my own. In the morning, therefore, I set\\nher free, anticipating some pleasure from seeing the joyous\\n14", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0213.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "194\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xxiii.\\nbound with which, as I thought, she would return to her native\\nfreedom. She had been so stupefied, however, by the exciting\\nevents of the preceding day and night, and was so puzzled as\\nto the road she should take, that she went off very deliberately,\\nand with an uncertain step. She went away quite sound in\\nlimb, but her intellect may have been upset. Never, in all\\nlikelihood, had she seen the form of a human being, until the\\ndreadful moment when she woke from her sleep, and found her-\\nself in the gripe of an Arab. Then her pitching and tossing\\njourney on the back of a camel, and lastly, a soiree with me\\nby candlelight I should have been glad to know, if I could,\\nthat her heart was not utterly broken.\\nMy Arabs were somewhat excited one day by discovering the\\nfresh print of a foot the foot, as they said, of a lion. I had no\\nconception that the Lord of the forest (better known as a crest)\\never stalked away from his jungles to make inglorious war in\\nthese smooth plains against antelopes and gazelles. I supposed\\nthat there must have been some error of interpretation, and that\\nthe Arabs meant to speak of a tiger. It appeared, however,\\nthat this was not the case either the Arabs were mistaken, or\\nthe noble brute, uncooped and unchained, had but lately crossed\\nmy path.\\nThe camels with which I traversed this part of the Desert,\\nwere very different in their ways and habits from those which\\nyou get on a frequented route. They were never led. There\\nwas not the slightest sign of a track in this part of the Desert,\\nbut the camels never failed to choose the right line. By the\\ndirection taken at starting, they knew, I suppose, the point (some\\nencampment) for which they were to make. There is always a\\nleading camel (generally, I believe, the eldest), who marches\\nforemost and determines the path for the whole party. If it\\nhappens that no one of the camels has been accustomed to lead\\nthe others, there is very great difficulty in making a start if you\\nforce your beast forward for a moment he will contrive to wheel\\nand draw back, at the same time looking at one of the other\\ncamels with an expression and gesture exactly equivalent to\\napres vous. The responsibility of finding the way is evi-\\ndently assumed very unwillingly. After some time, however.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0214.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXIII.]\\nSUEZ TO GAZA.\\n195\\nit becomes understood that one of the beasts has reluctantly con-\\nsented to take the lead, and he accordingly advances for that\\npurpose. For a minute or two he goes on with much indecision,\\ntaking first one line and then another, but soon, by the aid of\\nsome mysterious sense, he discovers the true direction and fol-\\nlows it steadily from morning to night. When once the leader-\\nship is established, you cannot by any persuasion, and can\\nscarcely by any force, induce a junior camel to walk one single\\nstep in advance of the chosen guide.\\nOn the fifth day I came to an Oasis, called the Wady el Arish,\\na ravine, or rather a gully, through which during a part of the\\nyear there runs a stream of water. On the sides of the gully\\nthere were a number of those graceful trees which the Arabs\\ncali Tarfa. The channel of the stream was quite dry in the\\npart at which we arrived, but at about half a mile off some\\nwater was found, which, though very muddy, was tolerably\\nsweet. This was a happy discovery, for the water which we\\nhad brought from the neighborhood of Suez was rapidly putri-\\nfying.\\nThe want of foresight is an anomalous part of the Bedouin s\\ncharacter, for it does not result either from recklessness or stu-\\npidity. I know of no human being whose body is so thoroughly\\nthe slave of mind as that of the Arab. His mental anxieties\\nseem to be for ever torturing every nerve and fibre of his body,\\nand yet with all this exquisite sensitiveness to the suggestions of\\nthe mind, he is grossly improvident. I recollect, for instance,\\nthat when setting out upon this passage of the Desert, my Arabs,\\nin order to lighten the burthen of their camels, were most anx-\\nious that we should take with us only two days supply of water.\\nThey said that by the time that supply was exhausted, we should\\narrive at a spring which would furnish us for the rest of the\\njourney. My servants very wisely, and with much pertinacity,\\nresisted the adoption of this plan, and took care to have both\\nthe large skins well filled. We proceeded, and found no water\\nat all, either at the expected spring, or for many days after-\\nwards, so that nothing but the precaution of my own people\\nsaved us from the very severe suffering which we should have\\nendured if we had entered upon the Desert with only a two days*", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0215.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "196\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXIII.\\nsupply. The Arabs themselves being on foot would have suf-\\nfered much more than I from the consequences of their im-\\nprovidence.\\nThis unaccountable want of foresight prevents the Bedouin\\nfrom appreciating at a distance of eight or ten days the amount\\nof the misery which he entails upon himself at the end of that\\nperiod. The Bedouin s dread of a city is one of the most pain-\\nful mental affections that I have ever observed, and yet when\\nthe whole breadth of the Desert lies between him and the town\\nto which you are going, he will freely enter into an agreement to\\nland you in the city for which you are bound. When, however,\\nafter many a day of toil, the distant minarets at length appear,\\nthe poor Bedouin relaxes the vigor of his pace his step becomes\\nfaltering and undecided every moment his uneasiness increases,\\nand at length he fairly sobs aloud, and embracing your knees,\\nimplores with the most piteous cries and gestures, that you will\\ndispense with him and his camels and find some other means of\\nentering the city. This, of course, one can t agree to, and the\\nconsequence is, that one is obliged to witness and resist the most\\nmoving expressions of grief and fond entreaty. I had to go\\nthrough a most painful scene of this kind when I entered Cairo,\\nand now the horror which these wilder Arabs felt at the notion of\\nentering Gaza led to consequences still more distressing. The\\ndread of cities results partly from a kind of wild instinct which\\nhas always characterized the descendants of Ishmael, but partly\\ntoo, from a well-founded apprehension of ill-treatment. So often\\nit happens that the poor Bedouin, when once jammed in between\\nwalls, is seized by the Government authorities for the sake of his\\ncamels, that his innate horror of cities becomes really well jus-\\ntified by results.\\nThe Bedouins with whom I performed this journey were wild\\nfellows of the Desert, quite unaccustomed to let out themselves\\nand their beasts for hire, and when they found that by the natural\\nascendency of Europeans they were gradually brought down to\\na state of subserviency to me, or rather to my attendants, they\\nbitterly repented, I believe, of having placed themselves under\\nour control*. They were rather difficult fellows to manage, and\\ngave Dthemetri a good deal of trouble, but I liked them all the\\nbetter for that.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0216.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXIII.]\\nSUEZ TO GAZA.\\n197\\nSelim, the chief of the party and the man to whom all our\\ncamels belonged, was a fine, wild, stately fellow there were, I\\nthink, five other Arabs of the party, but when we approached the\\nend of the journey, they, one by one, began to make off towards\\nthe neighboring encampments, and by the time that the minarets\\nof Gaza were in sight, Selim, the owner of the camels, was the\\nonly one who remained he, poor fellow, as we neared the\\nTown, began to discover the same terrors that my Arabs had\\nshown when I entered Cairo. I could not possibly accede to his\\nentreaties and consent to let my baggage be laid down on the\\nbare sands, without any means of having it brought on into the\\ncity. So at length when poor Selim had exhausted all his rhe-\\ntoric of voice and action and tears, he fixed his despairing eyes\\nfor a minute upon the cherished beasts that were his only wealth,\\nand then wildly and suddenly dashed away into the farther\\nDesert. I continued my course and reached the city at last, but\\nit was not without immense difficulty that we could constrain the\\npoor camels to pass under the hated shadow of its walls. They\\nwere the genuine beasts of the Desert, and it was sad and painful\\nto witness the agony which they suffered when thus they w r ere\\nforced to encounter the fixed habitations of men they shrank\\nfrom the beginning of every high narrow street, as though from\\nthe entrance of some horrible cave, or bottomless pit they\\nsighed and wept like women. When at last we got them within\\nthe court-yard of the Khan, they seemed to be quite broken-hearted,\\nand looked round piteously for their loving master, but no Selim\\ncame. I had imagined that he would enter the town secretly\\nby night, in order to carry off those five fine camels, his only\\nwealth in this world, and seemingly the main objects of his affec-\\ntion. But no his dread of civilisation was too strong during\\nthe whole of the three days that I remained at Gaza, he failed\\nto show himself, and thus sacrificed, in all probability, not only\\nhis camels but the money which I had stipulated to pay him for\\nthe passage of the Desert. In order, however, to do all I could\\ntowards saving him from this last misfortune, I resorted to a\\ncontrivance which is frequently adopted by the Asiatics. I\\nassembled a group of grave and worthy Mussulmans in the\\ncourt-yard of the Khan, and in their presence paid over the", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0217.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "198\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xxiii.\\ngold to a Sheik who was accustomed to communicate with the\\nArabs of the Desert. All present solemnly promised that if\\never Selim should come to claim his rights they would bear\\ntrue witness in his favor.\\nI saw a great deal of my old friend the Governor of Gaza.\\nHe had received orders to send back all persons coming from\\nEgypt, and force them to perform quarantine at El Arish he\\nknew so little of quarantine regulations, however, that his dress\\nwas actually in contact with mine, whilst he insisted upon the\\nstringency of the orders which he had received. He was in-\\nduced to make an exception in my favor, and I rewarded him\\nwith a musical snuff-box which I had bought at Smyrna, for the\\npurpose of presenting it to any man in authority who might hap-\\npen to do me an important service. The Governor was im-\\nmensely delighted with this toy, and took it off to his harem with\\ngreat exultation he soon, however, returned with an altered\\ncountenance his wives, he said, had got hold of the box, and put\\nit out of order. So short-lived is human happiness in this frail\\nworld\\nThe Governor fancied that he should incur less risk if I re-\\nmained at Gaza for two or three days more, and he wanted me\\nto become his guest I persuaded him, however, that it would be\\nbetter for him to let me depart at once he wanted to add to my\\nbaggage a roast lamb, and a quantity of other cumbrous viands,\\nbut I escaped with half a horse-load of leaven bread, which was\\nvery good of its kind, and proved a most useful present. The\\nair with which the Governor s slaves affected to be almost break-\\ning down under the weight of the gifts which they bore on their\\nshoulders, reminded me of the figures one sees in some of the old\\npictures.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0218.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXIV.]\\nGAZA TO NABLOUS.\\n199\\nCHAPTER XXIV.\\nGaza to Nablous.\\nPassing now once again through Palestine and Syria, I retained\\nthe tent which I had used in the Desert, and found that it added\\nvery much to my comfort in travelling. Instead of turning out\\na family from some wretched dwelling, and depriving them of a\\nrepose which I was sure not to find for myself, I now, when\\nevening came, pitched my tent upon some smiling spot within a\\nfew hundred yards of the village to which I looked for my sup-\\nplies that is, for milk and bread, if I had it not with me, and\\nsometimes also for eggs. The worst of it is, that the needful\\nviands are not to be obtained by coin, but only by intimidation.\\nI at first tried the usual agent money Dthemetri, with one or\\ntwo of my Arabs, went into the village near which I was en-\\ncamped, and tried to buy the required provisions, offering liberal\\npayment, but he came back empty-handed. I sent him again,\\nbut this time he held different language he required to see the\\nelders of the place, and threatening dreadful vengeance, directed\\nthem upon their responsibility to take care that my tent should\\nbe immediately and abundantly supplied. He was obeyed at\\nonce, and the provisions which had been refused to me as a\\npurchaser soon arrived, trebled, or quadrupled, when demanded\\nby way of a forced contribution. I quickly found (I think it re-\\nquired two experiments to convince me) that this peremptory\\nmethod was the only one which could be adopted with success\\nit never failed. Of course, however, when the provisions have\\nbeen actually obtained, you can, if you choose, give money ex-\\nceeding the value of the provisions to somebody an English a\\nthorough-bred English traveller will always do this (though it is\\ncontrary to the custom of the country), for the quiet (false quiet\\nthough it be) of his own conscience, but so to order the matter,", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0219.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "200\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXIV.\\nthat the poor fellows who have been forced to contribute, should\\nbe the persons to receive the value of their supplies, is not pos-\\nsible for a traveller to attempt anything so grossly just as that,\\nwould be too outrageous. The truth is, that the usage of the\\nEast, in old times, required the people of a village, at their own\\ncost, to supply the wants of travellers, and the ancient custom\\nis now adhered to, not in favor of travellers generally, but in\\nfavor of those who are deemed sufficiently powerful to enforce\\nits observance if the villagers, therefore, find a man waiving\\nthis right to oppress them, and offering coin for that which he is\\nentitled to take without payment, they suppose at once that he is\\nactuated by fear (fear of them, poor fellows and it is so delight-\\nful to them to act upon this flattering assumption, that they will\\nforego the advantage of a good price for their provisions, rather\\nthan the rare luxury of refusing for once in their lives to part\\nwith their own property.\\nThe practice of intimidation, thus rendered necessary, is\\nutterly hateful to an Englishman he finds himself forced to\\nconquer his daily bread by the pompous threats of the Drago-\\nman, his very subsistence, as well as his dignity and personal\\nsafety, being made to depend upon his servants assuming a tone\\nof authority which does not at all belong to him. Besides, he\\ncan scarcely fail to see, that as he passes through the country,\\nhe becomes the innocent cause of much extra injustice many\\nsupernumerary wrongs. This he feels to be especially the case\\nwhen he travels with relays. To be the owner of a horse or a\\nmule, within reach of an Asiatic potentate, is to lead the life of\\nthe hare and the rabbit hunted down and ferreted out. Too\\noften it happens that the works of the field are stopped in the day-\\ntime, that the inmates of the cottage are roused from their mid-\\nnight sleep by the sudden coming of a Government officer, and\\nthe poor husbandman, driven by threats and rewarded by curses\\nif he would not lose sight for ever of his captured beasts, must\\nquit all and follow them this is done that the Englishman may-\\ntravel he would make his way more harmlessly if he could,,\\nbut horses or mules he must have, and these are his ways and\\nmeans.\\nThe town of Nablous is beautiful it lies in a valley hemmed", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0220.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXIV.]\\nGAZA TO NABLOUS.\\n201\\nin with olive groves, and its buildings are interspersed with fre-\\nquent palm-trees. It is said to occupy the site of the ancient\\nSychem. I know not whether it was there, indeed, that the\\nfather of the Jews was accustomed to feed his flooks but the\\nvalley is green and smiling, and is held at this day by a race\\nmore brave and beautiful than Jacob s unhappy descendants.\\nNablous is the very furnace of Mahometan bigotry, and I be-\\nlieve that only a few months before the time of my going there,\\nit would have been quite unsafe for a man, unless strongly\\nguarded, to show himself to the people of the town in a Frank\\ncostume but since their last insurrection, the Mahomedans of\\nthe place had been so far subdued by the severity of Ibrahim\\nPasha, that they dared not now offer the slightest insult to an\\nEuropean. It was quite plain, however, that the effort with\\nwhich the men of the old school refrained from expressing their\\nopinion of a hat and a coat, was horribly painful to them as I\\nwalked through the streets and b azaars, a dead silence prevailed\\nevery man suspended his employment, and gazed on me with a\\nfixed, glassy look, which seemed to say, God is good, but how\\nmarvellous and inscrutable are his ways that thus he permits\\nthis white-faced dog of a Christian to hunt through the paths of\\nthe faithful\\nThe insurrection of these people had been more formidable\\nthan any other that Ibrahim Pasha had to contend with he was\\nonly able to crush them at last by the assistance of a fellow\\nrenowned for his resources in the way of stratagem and cunning,\\nas well as for his knowledge of the country. This personage\\nwas no other than Aboo Goosh the father of lies who was\\ntaken out of prison for the purpose. The 66 father of lies ena-\\nbled Ibrahim to hem in the insurrection, and extinguish it he\\nwas rewarded with the Governorship of Jerusalem, which he\\nheld when I was there I recollect, by the bye, that he tried one\\nof his stratagems upon me. I did not go to see him as I ought\\nin courtesy to have done, during my stay at Jerusalem, but I\\nhappened to be the owner of a rather handsome amber tchibouk\\nThis is an appellation, not implying blame, but merit; the lies which\\nit purports to affiliate are feints and cunning stratagems rather than the baser\\nkind of falsehoods. The expression in short has nearly the same meaning\\nas the English word Yorkshireman.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0221.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "202\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXIV.\\npiece which the Governor heard of, and by some means contriv-\\ned to see he sent to me, and dressed up a statement that he\\nwould give me a price immensely exceeding the sum which I\\nhad given for it. He did not add my tchibouk to the rest of his\\ntrophies.\\nThere was a small number of Greek Christians resident in\\nNablous, and over these the Mussulmans held a high hand, not\\neven permitting them to speak to each other in the open streets\\nbut if the Moslems thus set themselves above the poor Christians\\nof the place, I, or rather my servants, soon took the ascendant\\nover them, I recollect that just as we were starting from the\\nplace, and at a time when a number of people had gathered\\ntogether in the main street to see our preparations, Mysseri,\\nbeing provoked at some piece of perverseness on the part of\\na true Believer, coolly thrashed him with his horsewhip before the\\nassembled crowd of fanatics. I was much annoyed at the time,\\nfor I thought that the people would probably rise against us.\\nThey turned rather pale, but stood still.\\nThe day of my arriving at Nablous was a fete the new\\nyear s day of the Mussulmans.* Most of the people were amus-\\ning themselves in the beautiful lawns and shady groves without\\nthe city. The men (except myself) were all remotely apart\\nfrom the other sex. The women in groups were diverting them-\\nselves and their children with swings. They were so handsome\\nthat they could not keep up their yashmaks I believe that they\\nhad never before looked upon a man in the European dress, and\\nwhen they now saw in me that strange phenomenon, and saw,\\ntoo, how they could please the creature by showing him a\\nglimpse of beauty, they seemed to think it was better fun to do\\nthis, than to go on playing with swings. It was always, how-\\never, with a sort of Zoological expression of countenance that\\nthey looked on the horrible monster from Europe, and whenever\\none of them gave me to see for one sweet instant, the blushing of\\nher unveiled face, it was with the same kind of air as that with\\nwhich a young, timid girl will edge her way up to an elephant,\\nand tremblingly give him a nut from the tips of her rosy\\nfingers.\\nThe 29th of April.\\n9", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0222.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXV.]\\nMARIAM.\\n203\\nCHAPTER XXV.\\nMariam.\\nThere is no spirit of Propagandism in the Mussulmans of the\\nOttoman dominions. True it is that a prisoner of War, or a\\nChristian condemned to death, may on some occasions save his\\nlife by adopting the religion of Mahomet, but instances of this\\nkind are now exceedingly rare, and are quite at variance with\\nthe general system. Many Europeans I think would be sur-\\nprised to learn that which is nevertheless quite true, namely that\\nan attempt to disturb the religious repose of the Empire by the\\nconversion of a Christian to the Mahometan faith is positively\\nillegal an incident which occurred at Nablous, and which I\\nam going to mention, showed plainly enough that the unlawful-\\nness of such interference is recognized even in the most big-\\noted stronghold of Islam.\\nDuring my stay at this place I took up my quarters at the\\nhouse of the Greek Papa, as he is called, that is, the Greek\\nPriest the priest himself had gone to Jerusalem upon the busi-\\nness I am going to tell you of, but his wife remained at Nablous,\\nand did the honors of her home.\\nSoon after my arrival, a deputation from the Greek Christians\\nof the place came to request my interference in a matter which\\nhad occasioned vast excitement.\\nAnd now I must tell you how it came to happen, as it did\\ncontinually, that people thought it worth while to claim the as-\\nsistance of a mere traveller who was totally devoid of all just\\npretensions to authority, or influence of even the humblest de-\\nscription, and especially I must explain to you how it was that\\nthe power thus attributed, did really belong to me, or rather to\\nmy Dragoman. Successive political convulsions had at length\\nfairly loosed the people of Syria from their former rules of con-", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0223.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "204 EOTHEN. [chap. xxv.\\nduct, and from all their old habits of reliance. The violence i 1\\nand success with which Mehemet Ali crushed the insurrections of\\nthe Mahometan population, had utterly beaten down the head of\\nIslam, and extinguished for the time at least, those virtues and\\nvices which had sprung from the Mahometan Faith. Success so\\ncomplete as Mehemet Ali s, if it had been attained by an ordi-\\nnary Asiatic potentate, would have induced a notion of stability.\\nThe readily bowing mind of the Oriental would have bowed\\nlow and long under the feet of a conqueror whom God had thus\\nstrengthened. But Syria was no field for contests strictly\\nAsiatic Europe was involved, and though the heavy masses of\\nEgyptian troops clinging down with strong gripe upon the land,\\nmight seem to hold it fast, yet every peasant practically felt and\\nknew that in Vienna, or Petersburg, or London, there were four\\nor five pale looking men who could pull down the star of the\\nPasha with shreds of paper and ink. The people of the country\\nknew, too, that Mehemet Ali was strong with the strength of the\\nEuropeans, strong by his French General, his French tactics,\\nand his English engines. Moreover, they saw that the person,\\nthe property, and even the dignity of the humblest European\\nwas guarded with the most careful solicitude. The consequence\\nof all this was, that the people of Syria looked vaguely, but\\nconfidently, to Europe for fresh changes many would fix upon\\nsome nation, France or England, and steadfastly regard it as\\nthe arriving sovereign of Syria those whose minds remained in\\ndoubt, equally contributed to this new state of public opinion,\\nwhich no longer depended upon Religion and ancient habits,\\nbut upon bare hopes and fears. Every man wanted to know,\\nnot who was his neighbor, but who was to be his ruler whose\\nfeet he was to ,kiss, and by whom his feet were to be ultimately\\nbeaten. Treat your friend, says the proverb, as though he were\\none day to become your enemy, and your enemy as though he\\nwere one day to become your friend. The Syrians went fur-\\nther, and seemed inclined to treat every stranger as though he\\nmight one day become their Pasha. Such was the state of cir-\\ncumstances and of feeling which now for the first time had\\nthoroughly opened the mind of Western Asia for the reception\\nof Europeans and European ideas. The credit of the English", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0224.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXV.]\\nMARIAM.\\n205\\nespecially was so great, that a good Mussulman flying from the con-\\nscription, or any other persecution, would come to seek from the\\nformerly despised hat, that protection which the turban could no\\nlonger afford, and a man high in authority (as for instance the\\nGovernor in command of Gaza) would think that he had won a\\nprize, or at all events a valuable lottery ticket, if he obtained a\\nwritten approval of his conduct from a simple traveller.\\nStill, in order that any immediate result should follow from\\nall this unwonted readiness in the Asiatic to succumb to the\\nEuropean, it was necessary that some one should be at hand,\\nwho could see, and would push the advantage I myself had\\nneither the inclination nor the power to do so, but it happened\\nthat Dthemetri, who as my Dragoman represented me on all\\noccasions, was the very person of all others best fitted to avail\\nhimself with success of this yielding tendency in the Oriental\\nmind. If the chance of birth and fortune had made poor Dthe-\\nmetri a tailor during some part of his life, yet Religion and the\\nliterature of the Church which he served, had made him a Man,\\nand a brave Man, too. The lives of Saints with which he was\\nfamiliar, were full of heroic actions, which invited imitation,\\nand since faith in a creed involves a faith in its ultimate triumph,\\nDthemetri was bold from a sense of true strength his educa-\\ntion, too, though not very general in its character, had been\\ncarried quite far enough to justify him in pluming himself upon\\na very decided advantage over the great bulk of the Mahometan\\npopulation, including the men of authority. With all this con-\\nsciousness of religious and intellectual superiority, Dthemetri\\nhad lived for the most part in countries lying under Mussulman\\nGovernments, and had witnessed (perhaps, too, had suffered\\nfrom) their revolting cruelties the result was that he abhorred\\nand despised the Mahometan faith, and all who clung to it.\\nAnd this hate was not of the dry, dull, and inactive sort Dthe-\\nmetri was in his sphere a true Crusader, and whenever there\\nappeared a fair opening in the defences of Islam, he was ready\\nand eager to make the assault. These sentiments, backed by a\\nconsciousness of understanding the people with whom he had to\\ndo, made Dthemetri not only firm and resolute in his constant\\ninterviews with men in authority, but sometimes, also (as you", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0225.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "206\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxv.\\nmay know already), very violent, and even insulting. This\\ntone, which I always disliked, though I was fain to profit by it,\\ninvariably succeeded it swept away all resistance there was\\nnothing in the then depressed and succumbing mind of the Mus-\\nsulman that could oppose a zeal so warm and fierce.\\nAs for me, I of course stood aloof from Dthemetri s crusades,\\nand did not even render him any active assistance when he was\\nstriving (as he almost always was, poor fellow) on my behalf;\\nI was only the death s head and white sheet with which he\\nscared the enemy I think, however, that I played this spectral\\npart exceedingly well, for^l seldom appeared at all in any dis-\\ncussion, and whenever I did, I was sure to be pale and calm.\\nThe event which induced the Christians of Nablous to seek\\nfor my assistance was this. A beautiful young Christian, between\\nfifteen and sixteen years old, had lately been married to a man\\nof her own creed. About the same time (probably on the\\noccasion of her wedding) she was accidentally seen by a Mus-\\nsulman Sheik of great wealth and local influence, who instantly\\nbecame madly enamored of her. The strict morality, which\\nso generally prevails where the Mussulmans have complete\\nascendency, prevented the Sheik from entertaining any such\\nsinful hopes as an European might have ventured to cherish\\nunder the like circumstances, and he saw no chance of gratify-\\ning his love, except by inducing the girl to embrace his own\\ncreed if he could induce her to take this step, her marriage\\nwith the Christian would be dissolved, and then there would be\\nnothing to prevent him from making her the last, and brightest\\nof his wives. The Sheik was a practical man, and quickly\\nbegan his attack upon the theological opinions of the bride he\\ndid not assail her with the eloquence of any Imaums or Mussul-\\nman Saints he did not press upon her the eternal truths of the\\nCow, or the beautiful morality of the Table, he sent\\nher no tracts not even a copy of the holy Koran. An old\\nwoman acted as missionary. She brought with her a whole\\nbasket full of arguments jewels, and shawls, and scarfs, and all\\nThese are the names given by the Prophet to certain chapters of the\\nKoran.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0228.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXV.]\\nMARIAM.\\n207\\nkinds of persuasive finery. Poor Mariam she put on the jewels,\\nand took a calm view of the Mahometan Religion in a little hand\\nmirror she could not be deaf to such eloquent ear-rings, and\\nthe great truths of Islam came home to her young bosom in the\\ndelicate folds of the Cashmere she was ready to abandon her\\nfaith.\\nThe Sheik knew very well that his attempt to convert an\\ninfidel w r as illegal, and that his proceedings would not bear\\ninvestigation, so he took care to pay a large sum to the Governor\\nof Nablous in order to obtain his connivance.\\nAt length Mariam quitted her home, and placed herself under\\nthe protection of the Mahometan authorities, who, however,\\nrefrained from delivering her into the arms of her lover, and\\ndetained her in a mosque until the fact of her real conversion\\n(which had been indignantly denied by her relatives) should be\\nestablished. For two or three days the mother of the young\\nconvert was prevented from communicating with her child by\\nvarious evasive contrivances, but not, it would seem, by a flat\\nrefusal. At length it was announced that the young lady s pro-\\nfession of faith might be heard from her own lips. At an hour\\nappointed, the friends of the Sheik and the relatives of the\\ndamsel met in the mosque. The young convert addressed her\\nmother in a loud voice, and said, God is God, and Mahomet\\nis the Prophet of God, and thou, oh my mother, art an infidel\\nfeminine dog\\nYou would suppose that this declaration, so clearly enounced,\\nand that, too, in a place where Mahometanism is, perhaps,\\nmore supreme than in any other part of the Empire, would have\\nsufficed to confirm the pretensions of the lover. This, however,\\nwas not the case. The Greek Priest of the place was despatched\\non a mission to the Governor of Jerusalem (Aboo Goosh) in\\norder to complain against the proceedings of the Sheik, and\\nobtain a restitution of the bride. Meanwhile the Mahometan\\nauthorities at Nablous were so conscious of having acted unlaw-\\nfully, in conspiring to disturb the faith of the beautiful infidel,\\nthat they hesitated to take any further step, and the girl was still\\ndetained in the mosque.\\nThus matters stood when the Christians of the place came and\\nsought to obtain my assistance.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0229.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "208 EOTHEN. [chap. xxv.\\nI felt (with regret) that I had no personal interest in the matter,\\nand I also thought that there was no pretence for my interfering\\nwith the conflicting claims of the Christian husband, and the\\nMahometan lover, and I therefore declined to take any step.\\nMy speaking of the husband, by the by, reminds me that he\\nwas extremely backward about the great work of recovering his\\nyouthful bride. The relations of the girl, who felt themselves\\ndisgraced by her conduct, were vehement, and excited to a high\\npitch, but the Menelaus of Nablous was exceedingly calm and\\ncomposed.\\nThe fact that it was not technically my duty to interfere in a\\nmatter of this kind, was a very sufficient, and yet a very unsatis-\\nfactory reason for my refusal of all assistance. Until you are\\nplaced in situations of this kind, you can hardly tell how painful\\nit is to refrain from intermeddling in other people s affairs to\\nrefrain from intermeddling when you feel that you can do so\\nwith happy effect, and can remove a load of distress by the use\\nof a few small phrases. Upon this occasion, however, an\\nexpression fell from one of the girl s kinsmen, which not only\\ndetermined me against all interference, but made me hope that\\nall attempts to recover the proselyte would fail this person,\\nspeaking with the most savage bitterness, and with the cordial\\napproval of all the other relatives, said that the girl ought to be\\nbeaten to death. I could not fail to see that if the poor child\\nwere ever restored to her family, she would be treated with the\\nmost frightful barbarity I heartily wished, therefore, that the\\nMussulmans might be firm, and preserve their young prize from\\nany fate so dreadful as that of a return to her own relations.\\nThe next day the Greek Priest returned from his mission to\\nAboo Goosh, hut the father of lies, 5 it would seem, had been\\nwell plied with the gold of the enamored Sheik, and contrived\\nto put off the prayers of the Christians by cunning feints. Now,\\ntherefore, a second and more numerous deputation than the first\\nwaited upon me, and implored my intervention with the Gover-\\nnor. I informed the assembled Christians that since their last\\napplication I had carefully considered the matter. The reli-\\ngious question I thought might be put aside at once, for the ex-", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0230.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXV.]\\nMARIAM.\\n209\\ncessive levity which the girl had displayed proved clearly that,\\nin adopting Mahbmetanism, she was not quitting any other reli-\\ngion her mind must have been thoroughly blank upon religious\\nquestions, and she was not, therefore, to be treated as a Chris-\\ntian that had strayed from the flock, but rather as a child with-\\nout any religion at all, who was willing to conform to the usa-\\nges of those who would deck her with jewels, and clothe her\\nwith Cashmere shawls.\\nSo much for the religious part of the question. Well, then,\\nin a merely temporal sense, it appeared to me that (looking\\nmerely to the interests of the damsel, for I rather unjustly put\\npoor Menelaus quite out of the question), the advantages were\\nall on the side of the Mahometan match. The Sheik was\\nin a much higher station of life than the superseded husband,\\nand had given the best possible proof of his ardent affection, by\\nthe sacrifices which he had made, and the risks which he had\\nincurred for the sake of the beloved object. I therefore stated\\nfairly, to the horror and amazement of all my hearers, that the\\nSheik, in my view, was likely to make a most capital husband,\\nand that I entirely approved of the match.\\nI left Nablous under the impression that Mariam would soon\\nbe delivered to her Mussulman lover I afterwards found, how-\\never, that the result was very different. Dthemetri s religious\\nzeal and hate had been so much excited by the account of these\\nevents, and by the grief and mortification of his co-religionists,\\nthat when he found me firmly determined to decline all in f erfer-\\nence in the matter, he secretly appealed to the Governor in my\\nname and (using, I suppose, many violent threats, and tellings no\\ndoubt, many lies about my station and influence) extorted a\\npromise that the proselyte should be restored to her relatives. I\\ndid not understand that the girl had been actually given up\\nwhilst I remained at Nablous, but Dthemetri certainly did not de-\\nsist from his instances until he had satisfied himself by some means\\nor other (for mere words amounted to nothing) that the promise\\nwould be actually performed. It was not till I had quitted Syria\\nand when Dthemetri was no longer in my service, that this vil-\\nlainous though well-motived trick of his came to my know-\\nledge Mysseri, who informed me of the step which had been\\n15", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0231.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "210 EOTHEN. [chap. xxv.\\ntaken, did not know it himself until some time after we had quit-\\nted Nablous, when Dthemetri exultingly confessed his success-\\nful enterprise. I know not whether the engagement which my\\nzealous Dragoman extorted from the Governor was ever com-\\nplied with. I shudder to think of the fate which must have be-\\nfallen poor Mariam, if she fell into the hands of her husband.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0232.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "chap, xxvi.] THE PROPHET DAMOOR\\n211\\nCHAPTER XXVI.\\nThe Prophet Damoor.\\nFor some hours I passed along the shores of the fair Lake of\\nGalilee, and then turning a little to the westward, I struck into\\na mountainous country, the character of which became more\\nbold and beautiful as I advanced. At length I drew near to\\nSafet, which sits as proud as a fortress upon the summit of a\\ncraggy height, and yet because of its minarets, and stately\\ntrees, the place looks bright and beautiful. It is one of the holy\\ncities of the Talmud, and according to this authority, the Mes-\\nsiah will reign there forty years before he takes possession of\\nSion. The sanctity thus attributed to the city renders it a favor-\\nite place of retirement for Israelites, of whom it contains four\\nthousand, a number nearly balancing that of the Mahometan in-\\nhabitants. I knew by my experience of Tabarieh that a holy\\ncity was sure to have a population of vermin somewhat pro-\\nportionate to the number of its Israelites, and I therefore caused 1\\nmy tent to be pitched upon a green spot of ground at a respect-\\nful distance from the walls of the town.\\nWhen it had become quite dark (for there was no moon that\\nnight) I was informed that several Jews had secretly come from\\nthe city, in the hope of obtaining some assistance from me in\\ncircumstances of imminent danger I was also informed that\\nthey claimed my aid upon the ground that some of their\\nnumber were British subjects. It was arranged that the two\\nprincipal men of the party should speak for the rest, and these\\nwere accordingly admitted into my tent. One of the two called\\nhimself the British Vice-Consul, and he had with him his con-\\nsular cap, but he frankly said that he could not have dared to\\nassume this emblem of his dignity in the day time, and that\\nnothing but the extreme darkness of the night rendered it safe", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0233.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "212\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXVI.\\nfor him to put it on upon this occasion. The other of the\\nspokesmen was a Jew of Gibraltar, a tolerably well-bred per-\\nson, who spoke English very fluently.\\nThese men informed me that the Jews of the place, who were\\nexceedingly wealthy, had lived peaceably in their retirement\\nuntil the insurrection which took place in 1834, but about the\\nbeginning of that year a highly religious Mussulman, called\\nMohammed Damoor, went forth into the market-place, crying\\nwith a loud voice, and prophesying, that on the fifteenth of the\\nfollowing June the true Believers would rise up in just wrath\\nagainst the Jews, and despoil them of their gold, and their silver,\\nand their jewels. The earnestness of the prophet produced\\nsome impression at the time, but all went on as usual, until at\\nlast the fifteenth of June arrived. When that day dawned, the\\nwhole Mussulman population of the place assembled in the\\nstreets, that they might see the result of the prophecy. Sud-\\ndenly Mohammed Damoor rushed furious into the crowd, and the\\nfierce shout of the prophet soon ensured the fulfilment of his\\nprophecy. Some of the Jews fled, and some remained, but they\\nwho fled, and they who remained, alike and unresistingly left\\ntheir property to the hands of the spoilers. The most odious of\\nall outrages, that of searching the women for the base purpose of\\ndiscovering such things as gold and silver concealed about their\\npersons, was perpetrated without shame. The poor Jews were\\nso stricken with terror, that they submitted to their fate, even\\nwhere resistance would have been easy. In several instances a\\nyoung Mussulman boy, not more than ten or twelve years of\\nage, walked straight into the house of a Jew, and stripped him\\nof his property before his face, and in the presence of his whole\\nfamily.* When the insurrection was put down, some of the\\nMussulmans (most probably those who had got no spoil where-\\nwith they might buy immunity) were punished, but the greater\\npart of them escaped none of the booty was restored, and the\\npecuniary redress which the Pasha had undertaken to enforce\\nfor them, had been hitherto so carefully delayed, that the hope\\nof ever obtaining it had grown very faint. A new Governor\\nIt was after the interview which I am talking of, and not from the\\nJews themselves, that I learnt this fact.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0234.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVI.]\\nTHE PROPHET DAMOOR.\\n213\\nhad been appointed to the command of the place, with stringent\\norders to ascertain the real extent of the losses, and to discover\\nthe spoilers, with the view of compelling them to make restitu-\\ntion. It was found that, notwithstanding the urgency of the in-\\nstructions which the Governor had received, he did not push on\\nthe affair with the vigor which had been expected the Jews\\ncomplained, and either by the protection of the British Consul at\\nDamascus, or by some other means, had influence enough to in-\\nduce the appointment of a special Commissioner they called\\nhim the Modeer whose duty it was to watch for, and prevent\\nanything like connivance on the part of the Governor, and to\\npush on the investigation with vigor and impartiality.\\nSuch were the instructions with which some few weeks since\\nthe Modeer came fraught the result was that the investigation\\nhad made no practical advance, and that the Modeer, as well as\\ni the Governor, was living upon terms of affectionate friendship\\nwith Mohammed Damoor, and the rest of the principal spoilers.\\nThus stood the chances of redress for the past, but the cause\\nof the agonizing excitement under which the Jews of the place\\nnow labored, was recent, and justly alarming Mohammed\\nDamoor had again gone forth into the market-place, and lifted\\nup his voice, and prophesied a second spoliation of the Israelites.\\nThis was grave matter the words of such a practical man as\\nMohammed Damoor were not to be despised. I fear I must\\nhave smiled visibly, for I was greatly amused, and even, I think,\\ngratified at the account of this second prophecy. Nevertheless,\\nmy heart warmed towards the poor oppressed Israelites, and I\\nwas flattered too, in the point of my national vanity, at the no-\\ntion of the far-reaching link, by which a Jew in Syria, who\\nhad been born on the rock of Gibraltar, was able to claim me\\nas his fellow-countryman. If I hesitated at all between the\\nimpropriety of interfering in a matter which was no business\\nof mine, and the horrid shame of refusing my aid at such a\\nconjuncture, I soon came to a very ungentlemanly decision\\nnamely, that I would be guilty of the impropriety, and not of\\nthe horrid shame. It seemed to me that the immediate ar-\\nrest of Mohammed Damoor was the one thing needful to the\\nsafety of the Jews, and I felt confident (for reasons which I have", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0235.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "214\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXVI.\\nalready mentioned in speaking of the Nablous affair) that I\\nshould be able to obtain this result by making a formal appli-\\ncation to the Governor. I told my applicants that I would take\\nthis step on the following morning they were very grateful,\\nand were for a moment much pleased at the prospect of safety\\nwhich might thus be opened to them, but the deliberation of a\\nminute entirely altered their views, and filled them with new\\nterror they declared, that any attempt, or pretended attempt on\\nthe part of the Governor to arrest Mohammed Damoor would\\ncertainly produce an immediate movement of the whole Mus-\\nsulman population, and a consequent massacre and robbery of\\nthe Israelites. My visitors went out, and occupied considerable\\ntime, if I rightly remember, in consulting their brethren, but all\\nagreed that their present perilous and painful position was better\\nthan the certain and immediate attack which would be made if\\nMohammed Damoor were seized that their second estate\\nwould be worse than their first. I myself did not think that\\nthis would be the case, but I could not, of course, force my\\naid upon the people against their will, and moreover the day\\nfixed for the fulfilment of this second prophecy was not very\\nclose at hand a little delay, therefore, in providing against the\\nimpending danger, would not necessarily be fatal. The men\\nnow confessed that although they had come with so much\\nmystery, and as they thought, at so great a risk, to ask my as-\\nsistance, they were unable to suggest any mode in which I\\ncould aid them, except, indeed, by mentioning their grievances\\nto the Consul-general at Damascus. This I promised to do, and\\nthis I did.\\nMy visitors were very thankful to me for the readiness which\\nI had shown to intermeddle in their affairs, and the grateful\\nwives of the principal Jews sent to me many compliments, with\\nchoice wines, and elaborate sweetmeats.\\nThe course of my travels soon drew me so far from Safet\\nthat I never heard how the dreadful day passed off which had\\nbeen fixed for the accomplishment of the second prophecy. If\\nthe predicted spoliation was prevented, poor Mohammed Damoor\\nmust have been forced, I suppose, to say that he had prophesied\\nin a metaphorical sense. This would be a sad falling off from\\nthe brilliant and substantial success of the first experiment.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0236.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVII.]\\nDAMASCUS.\\n215\\nCHAPTER XXVII.\\nDamascus.\\nFor a part of two days I wound under the base of the snow-\\ncrowned Djibel el Sheik, and then entered upon a vast and deso-\\nlate plain, rarely pierced at intervals by some sort of withered\\nstem. The earth in its length and its breadth, and all the deep\\nuniverse of sky, was steeped in light and heat. On I rode\\nthrough the fire, but long before evening came, there were strain-\\ning eyes that saw and joyful voices that announced the sight of\\nShaum Shereef the Holy, the Blessed Damascus.\\nBut that which at last I reached with my longing eyes, was\\nnot a speck in the horizon, gradually expanding to a group of\\nroofs and walls, but a long, low line of blackest green that ran\\nright across in the distance from East to West. And this, as I\\napproached, grew deeper grew wavy in its outline soon for-\\nest trees shot up before my eyes and robed their broad shoulders\\nso freshly that all the throngs of olives as they rose into view\\nlooked sad in their proper dimness. There were even now no\\nhouses to see, but only the minarets peered out from the midst\\nof shade into the glowing sky and bravely touched the Sun.\\nThere seemed to be here no mere city, but rather a province,\\nwide and rich, that bounded the torrid waste.\\nUntil within a year or two of the time at which I went there,\\nDamascus had kept up so much of the old bigot zeal, against\\nChristians, or rather against Europeans, that no one dressed as\\na Frank could have dared to show himself in the streets but\\nthe firmness and temper of Mr. Farren, who hoisted his flag in\\nthe city as Consul-general for the district, had soon put an end\\nto all intolerance of Englishmen. Damascus was safer than\\nOxford.* When I entered the city, in my usual dress, there\\nAn enterprising American traveller, Mr. Everett, lately conceived the", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0237.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "216\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXVII.\\nwas but one poor fellow that wagged his tongue, and him, in the\\nopen streets, Dthemetri horse- whipped. During my stay I went\\nwherever I chose, and attended the public baths without molesta-\\ntion. Indeed my relations with the pleasanter portion of the\\nMahometan population were upon a much better footing here\\nthan at most other places.\\nIn the principal streets of Damascus there is a path for foot\\npassengers, which is raised, I think, a foot or two above the\\nbridle road. Until the arrival of the British Consul-general,\\nnone but a Mussulman had been permitted to walk upon the\\nupper way Mr. Farren would not, of course, suffer that the\\nhumiliation of any such exclusion should be submitted to by an\\nEnglishman, and I always walked upon the raised path as free\\nand unmolested as if I had been striding through Bond Street\\nthe old usage was, however, maintained with as much strictness\\nas ever against the Christian Rayahs and Jews not one of\\nthem could have set his foot upon the privileged path without\\nendangering his life.\\nI was lounging one day, I remember, along the paths of the\\nfaithful, when a Christian Rayah from the bridle-road below\\nsaluted me with such earnestness, and craved so anxiously to\\nspeak, and be spoken to, that he soon brought me to a halt he\\nhad nothing to tell, except only the glory, and exultation with\\nwhich he saw a fellow Christian stand level with the imperious\\nMussulmans perhaps he had been absent from the place for\\nsome time, for otherwise I hardly know how it could have hap-\\npened that my exaltation was the first instance he had seen. His\\njoy was great so strong and strenuous was England (Lord\\nPalmerston reigned in those days) that it was a pride and de-\\nI bold project of penetrating to the University of Oxford, and this, notwith-\\nstanding that he had been in his infancy (they begin very young those\\nAmericans) an Unitarian preacher. Having a notion, it seems, that the\\nAmbassadorial character would protect him from insult, he adopted the\\nstratagem of procuring credentials from his government as Minister Pleni-\\npotentiary at the Court of her Britannic Majesty he also wore the exact\\ncostume of a Trinitarian, but all his contrivances were vain Oxford dis-\\ndained and rejected him (not because he represented a swindling community,\\nbut) because that his infantine sermons were strictly remembered against\\nhim the enterprise failed.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0238.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVII.]\\nDAMASCUS.\\n217\\nlight for a Syrian Christian to look up, and say that the Eng-\\nlishman s faith was his too if I was vexed at all that I could\\nnot give the man a lift, and shake hands with him on level\\nground, there was no alloy to his pleasure he followed me on,\\nnot looking to his own path, but keeping his eyes on me he saw,\\nas he thought, and said (for he came with me on to my quar-\\nters) the period of the Mahometan s absolute ascendency the\\nbeginning of the Christian s. He had so closely associated\\nthe insulting privilege of the path with actual dominion, that see-\\ning it now in one instance abandoned, he looked for the quick\\ncoming of European troops. His lips only whispered, and that\\ntremulously, but his fiery eyes spoke out their triumph in long\\nand loud hurrahs I, too, am a Christian. My foes are the\\nfoes of the English. We are all one people, and Christ is our\\nKing.\\nIf I poorly deserved, yet I liked this claim of brotherhood.\\nNot all the warnings which I heard against their rascality could\\nhinder me from feeling kindly towards my fellow-Christians in\\nthe East. English travellers, from a habit perhaps of depre-\\nciating sectarians in their own country, are apt to look down\\nupon the Oriental Christians as being dissenters from the\\nestablished religion of a Mahometan Empire. I never did\\nthus. By a natural perversity of disposition, which my nurse-\\nmaids called contrariness, I felt the more strongly for my creed\\nwhen I saw it despised among men. I quite tolerated the\\nChristianity of Mahometan countries, notwithstanding its humble\\naspect, and the damaged character of its followers I went\\nfurther, and extended some sympathy towards those who, with\\nall the claims of superior intellect, learning, and industry, were\\nkept down under the heel of the Mussulmans by reason of their\\nhaving our faith. I heard, as I fancied, the faint echo of an old\\nCrusader s conscience, that whispered, and said, Common\\ncause V J The impulse was, as you may suppose, much too\\nfeeble to bring me into trouble it merely influenced my actions\\nin a way thoroughly characteristic of this poor sluggish cen-\\ntury that is, by making me speak almost as civilly to the\\nfollowers of Christ as I did to their Mahometan foes.\\nThis Holy Damascus, this earthly paradise of the Pro-", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0239.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "218\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xxvii.\\nphet, so fair to the eyes, that he dared not trust himself to tarry\\nin her blissful shades, she is a city of hidden palaces, of copses,\\nand gardens, and fountains, and bubbling streams. The juice\\nof her life is the gushing and ice-cold torrent that tumbles from\\nthe snowy sides of Anti-Lebanon. Close along on the river s\\nedge through seven sweet miles of rustling boughs, and deepest\\nshade, the city spreads out her whole length as a man falls\\nflat, face forward on the brook, that he may drink, and drink\\nagain, so Damascus, thirsting for ever, lies down with her lips\\nto the stream, and clings to its rushing waters.\\nThe chief places of public amusement, or rather, of public\\nrelaxation, are the baths, and the great cafe this last, which\\nis frequented at night by most of the wealthy men, and by many\\nof the humbler sort, consists of a number of sheds very simply\\nframed, and built in a labyrinth of running streams, which foam\\nand roar on every side. The place is lit up in the simplest man-\\nner by numbers of small, pale lamps, strung upon loose cords,\\nand so suspended branch to branch, that the light, though it looks\\nso quiet amongst the darkening foliage, yet leaps and brightly\\nflashes, as it falls upon the troubled waters. All around, and\\nchiefly upon the very edge of the torrents, groups of people are\\ntranquilly seated. They all drink coffee, and inhale the cold\\nfumes of the narguile they talk rather gently the one to the\\nother, or else are silent. A father will sometimes have two or\\nthree of his boys around him, but the joyousness of the Oriental\\nchild is all of the sober sort, and never disturbs the reigning\\ncalm of the land.\\nIt has been generally understood, I believe, that the houses of\\nDamascus are more sumptuous than those of any other city in the\\nEast. Some of these said to be the most magnificent in the\\nplace I had an opportunity of seeing.\\nEvery rich man s house stands detached from its neighbors,\\nat the side of a garden, and it is from this cause, no doubt, that\\nthe city has hitherto escaped destruction. You know some parts\\nof Spain, but you have never, I think, been in Andalusia if you\\nhad, I could easily show you the interior of a Damascene house,\\nby referring you to the Alhambra, or Alcanzar of Seville. The\\nlofty rooms are adorned with a rich inlaying of many colors, and", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0240.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVII.]\\nDAMASCUS.\\n219\\nilluminated writing on the walls. The floors are of marble.\\nOne side of any room intended for noon-day retirement is gene-\\nrally laid open to a quadrangle, in the centre of which there\\ndances the jet of a fountain. There is no furniture that can in-\\nterfere with the cool, palace-like emptiness of the apartments.\\nA divan (which is a low and doubly broad sofa) runs round the\\nthree walled sides of the room a few Persian carpets (which\\nought to be called Persian rugs, for that is the word which indi-\\ncates their shape and dimension), are sometimes thrown about\\nnear the divan they are placed without order, the one partly\\nlapping over the other, and thus disposed, they give to the room\\nan appearance of uncaring luxury except these (of which I saw\\nfew, for the time was summer and fiercely hot), there is nothing\\nto obstruct the welcome air, and the whole of the marble floor\\nfrom one divan to the other, and from the head of the chamber\\nacross to the murmuring fountain, is thoroughly open and free.\\nSo simple as this is Asiatic luxury The Oriental is not a\\ncontriving animal there is nothing intricate in his magnificence.\\nThe impossibility of handing down property from father to son,\\nfor any long period consecutively, seems to prevent the existence\\nof those traditions by which, with us, the refined modes of apply-\\ning wealth are made known to its inheritors. We know that in\\nEngland a newly-made rich man cannot, by taking thought and\\nspending money, obtain even the same-looking furniture as a\\nGentleman. The complicated character of an English estab-\\nlishment allows room for subtle distinctions between that which\\nis comme ilfaut and that which is not. All such refinements are\\nunknown in the East the Pasha and the peasant have the same\\ntastes. The broad, cold marble floor the simple couch the air\\nfreshly waving through a shady chamber a verse of the Koran\\nemblazoned on the walls the sight and the sound of falling\\nwater the cold, fragrant smoke of the narguile, and a small\\ncollection of wives and children in the inner apartments all\\nthese, the utmost enjoyments of the grandee, are yet such as to\\nbe appreciable by the humblest Mussulman in the empire.\\nBut its gardens are the delight the delight and the pride of\\nDamascus they are not the formal parterres which you might\\nexpect from the Oriental taste they rather bring back to your", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0241.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "220\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap, xxvii.\\nmind the memory of some dark old shrubbery in our northern\\nisle, that has been charmingly wn-kept up for many and\\nmany a day. When you see a rich wilderness of wood in decent\\nEngland, it is like enough that you see it with some soft regrets.\\nThe puzzled old woman at the lodge can give small account of\\nThe family. She thinks it is Italy that has. made the\\nwhole circle of her world so gloomy and sad. You avoid the\\nhouse in lively dread of a lone housekeeper, but you make your\\nway on by the stables you remember that gable with all its\\nneatly nailed trophies of fitches, and hawks, and owls, now\\nslowly falling to pieces you remember that stable, and that, but\\nthe doors are all fastened that used to be standing ajar the\\npaint of things painted is blistered and cracked grass grows in\\nthe yard just there, in October mornings, the keeper would\\nwait with the dogs and the guns no keeper now you hurry\\naway, and gain the small wicket that used to open to the touch\\nof a lightsome hand it is fastened with a padlock (the only new-\\nlooking thing), and is stained with thick, green damp you climb\\nit, and bury yourself in the deep shade, and strive but lazily\\nwith the tangling briars, and stop for long minutes to judge and\\ndetermine whether you will creep beneath the long boughs, and\\nmake them your archway, or whether perhaps you will lift your\\nheel, and tread them down under foot. Long doubt, and scarcely\\nto be ended, till you wake from the memory of those days when\\nthe path was clear, and chase that phantom of a muslin sleeve\\nthat once weighed warm upon your arm.\\nWild as that the nighest woodland of a deserted home in Eng-\\nland, but without its sweet sadness, is the sumptuous garden of\\nDamascus. Forest trees, tall and stately enough if you could\\nsee their lofty crests, yet lead a tustling life of it below with\\ntheir branches struggling against strong numbers of bushes\\nand wilful shrubs. The shade upon the earth is black as night\\nHigh, high above your head and on every side all down to the\\nground, the thicket is hemmed in and choked up by the inter-\\nlacing boughs that droop with the weight of roses, and load the\\nslow air with their damask breath.* There are no other flow.\\nThe rose trees which I saw were all of the kind we call damask\\nthey grow to an immense height and size.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0242.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVII.]\\nDAMASCUS.\\n221\\ners. Here and there, there are patches of ground made clear\\nfrom the cover, and these are either carelessly planted with\\nsome common and useful vegetable, or else are left free to the\\nwayward ways of Nature, and bear rank weeds, moist-looking\\nand cool to your eyes, and freshening the sense with their\\nearthy and bitter fragrance. There is a lane opened through\\nthe thicket so broad in some places that you can pass along side\\nby side in some so narrow (the shrubs are for ever encroach-\\ning) that you ought, if you can, to go on the first and hold back\\nthe bough of the rose tree. And through this wilderness there\\ntumbles a loud rushing stream which is halted at last in the\\nlowest corner of the garden, and there tossed up in a fountain by\\nthe side of the simple alcove. This is all.\\nNever for an instant will the people of Damascus attempt to\\nseparate the idea of bliss from these wild gardens and rushing\\nwaters. Even where your best affections are concerned, and\\nyou prudent preachers hold hard, and turn aside when\\nthey come near the mysteries of the happy state, and we (pru-\\ndent preachers too), we will hush our voices and never reveal\\nto. finite beings the joys of the Earthly Paradise.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0243.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "222\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXVIII.\\nCHAPTER XXVIII.\\nPass of the Lebanon.\\nThe ruins of Baalbec Shall I scatter the vague, solemn\\nthoughts and all the airy phantasies which gather together when\\nonce those words are spoken, that I may give you instead tall\\ncolumns, and measurements true, and phrases built with ink\\nNo, no the glorious sounds shall still float on as of yore, and\\nstill hold fast upon your brain with their own dim and infinite\\nmeaning.\\nCome Baalbec is over I got rather well out of that.\\nThe pass by which I crossed the Lebanon is like, I think, in\\nits features to one which you must know, namely, that of the\\nFoorca in the Bernese Oberland. For a great part of the way I\\ntoiled rather painfully through the dazzling snow, but the labor\\nof ascending added to the excitement with which I looked for\\nthe summit of the pass. The time came. There was a minute\\nin the which I saw nothing but the steep white shoulder of the\\nmountain, and there was another minute, and that the next,\\nwhich showed me a nether Heaven of fleecy clouds that floated\\nalong far down in the air beneath me, and showed me beyond\\nthe breadth of all Syria west of the Lebanon. But chiefly I\\nclung with my eyes to the dim steadfast line of the sea which\\nclosed my utmost view I had grown well used of late to the\\npeople and the scenes of forlorn Asia well used to tombs and\\nruins, to silent cities and deserted plains, to tranquil men and\\nwomen sadly veiled and now that I saw the even plain of the\\nsea, I leapt with an easy leap to its yonder shores, and saw all\\nthe kingdoms of the West in that fair path that could lead me\\nfrom out of this silent land straight on into shrill Marseilles, or\\nround by the pillars of Hercules, to the crash and roar of Lon-\\ndon. My place upon this dividing barrier was as a man s", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0244.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "CHAP. XXVIII.]\\nPASS OF THE LEBANON.\\n223\\npuzzling station in eternity, between the birthless Past and the\\nFuture that has no end. Behind me I left an old decrepid World\\nReligions dead and dying calm tyrannies expiring in silence\\nwomen hushed and swathed, and turned into waxen dolls\\nLove flown, and in its stead mere Royal and Paradise plea-\\nsures. Before me there waited glad bustle and strife, Love\\nitself, an emulous game, Religion a Cause and a Controversy,\\nwell smitten and well defended, men governed by reasons and\\nsuasion of speech, wheels going, steam buzzing, a mortal\\nrace and a slashing pace, and the Devil taking the hindmost,\\ntaking me, by Jove (for that was my inner care), if I lingered\\ntoo long upon the difficult Pass that leads from Thought to\\nAction.\\nI descended, and went towards the West.\\nThe group of Cedars, remaining on this part of the Lebanon,\\nis held Sacred by the Greek Church, on account of a prevailing\\nnotion that the trees were standing at a time when the Temple\\nof Jerusalem was built. They occupy three or four acres on\\nthe mountain s side, and many of them are gnarled in a way\\nthat implies great age, but except these signs I saw nothing in\\ntheir appearance or conduct that tended to prove them contem-\\nporaries of the cedars employed in Solomon s Temple. The\\nfinal cause to which these aged survivors owed their preserva-\\ntion, was explained to me in the evening by a glorious old fel-\\nlow (a Christian Chief), who made me welcome in the valley\\nof Eden. In ancient times, the whole range of the Lebanon\\nhad been covered with cedars, but as the fertile plains beneath\\nbecame more and more infested with Government officers and\\ntyrants of high and low degree, the people by degrees aban-\\ndoned them, and flocked to the rugged mountains which were\\nless accessible to their indolent oppressors. The cedar forests\\ngradually shrank under the axe of the encroaching multitudes,\\nand seemed at last to be on the point of disappearing entirely,\\nwhen an aged Chief who ruled in this district, and who had\\nwitnessed the great change effected even in his own life-time,\\nchose to say that some sign or memorial should be left of the\\nvast woods with which the mountains had formerly been clad,\\nand commanded accordingly that this group of trees (which was", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0245.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "224\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXVIII.\\nprobably situate at the highest point to which the forest had\\nreached), should remain untouched. The Chief, it seems, was\\nnot moved by the notion I have mentioned as prevailing in the\\nGreek Church, but rather by some sentiment of veneration for\\na great natural feature, a sentiment akin, perhaps, to that old\\nand earthborn Religion, which made men bow down to Creation\\nbefore they had yet learnt how to know and worship the Creator.\\nThe Chief of the valley in which I passed the night was a\\nman of large possessions, and he entertained me very sumptu-\\nously he was highly intelligent, and had had the sagacity to\\nforesee that Europe would intervene authoritatively in the affairs\\nof Syria. Bearing this idea in mind, and with a view to give\\nhis son an advantageous start in the ambitious career for which\\nhe was destined, he had hired for him a teacher of the Italian\\nlanguage, the only accessible European tongue. The tutor,\\nhowever, who was a native of Syria, either did not know, or did\\nnot choose to teach the European forms of address, but contented\\nhimself with instructing his pupil in the mere language of Italy.\\nThis circumstance gave me an opportunity (the only one I ever\\nhad, or was likely to have),* of hearing the phrases of Oriental\\ncourtesy in an European tongue. The boy was about twelve\\nor thirteen years old, and having the advantage of being able to\\nspeak to me without the aid of an interpreter, he took a very\\nprominent part in doing the honors of his father s house. He\\nwent through his duties with untiring assiduity, and with a kind\\nof gracefulness which can scarcely be conveyed by mere de-\\nscription to those who are unacquainted with the manners of the\\nAsiatics. The boy s address resembled a little that of a highly\\npolished and insinuating Roman Catholic Priest, but had more\\nof girlish gentleness. It was strange to hear him gravely and\\nslowly enunciating the common and extravagant compliments\\nof the East in good Italian, and in soft, persuasive tones I\\nrecollect that I was particularly amused at the gracious obsti-\\nnacy with which he maintained that the house in which I was\\nso hospitably entertained, belonged not to his father, but to me\\nto say this once, was only to use the common form of speech,\\nA Dragoman never interprets in terms the courteous language of the\\nEast.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0246.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "chap, xxviii.] PASS OF THE LEBANON.\\n225\\nsignifying no more than our sweet word welcome, but the\\namusing part of the matter was that, whenever in the course of\\nconversation I happened to speak of his father s house or the\\nsurrounding domain, the boy invariably interfered to correct my\\npretended mistake, and to assure me once again with a gentle\\ndecisiveness of manner that the whole property was really and\\nexclusively mine, and that his father had not the most distant\\npretensions to its ownership.\\nI received from my host much and (as I now know) most true\\ninformation respecting the people of the mountains, and their\\npower of resisting Mehemet Ali. The Chief gave me very\\nplainly to understand that the Mountaineers being dependent\\nupon others for bread and gunpowder (the two great necessaries\\nof martial life), could not long hold out against a power which\\noccupied the plains and commanded the sea, but he also assured\\nme, and that very significantly, that if this source of weakness\\nwere provided against, the Mountaineers were to be depended\\nupon he told me that in ten or fifteen days the Chiefs could\\nbring together some fifty thousand fighting men,\\n16", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0247.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "226\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxix.\\nCHAPTER XXIX.\\nSurprise of Satalieh.\\nWhilst I was remaining upon the coast of Syria, I had the\\ngood fortune to become acquainted with the Russian Sataliefsky,*\\na General Officer, who, in his youth, had fought and 9 bled at\\nBorodino, but was now better known among Diplomats by the\\nimportant trust committed to him at a period highly critical for\\nthe affairs of Eastern Europe I must not tell you his family\\nname my mention of his title can do him no harm, for it is I,\\nand I only, who have conferred it in consideration of the mili-\\ntary and diplomatic services performed under my own eyes.\\nThe General as well as I was bound for Smyrna, and we\\nagreed to sail together in an Ionian Brigantine. We did not\\ncharter the vessel, but we made our arrangement with the\\ncaptain upon such terms that we could be put ashore upon any\\npart of the coast which we might think proper. We sailed, and\\nday after day the vessel lay dawdling on the sea with calms and\\nfeeble breezes for her portion. I myself was well repaid for\\nthe painful restlessness which such weather occasions, because\\nI gained from my companion a little of that vast fund of inte-\\nresting knowledge with which he was stored knowledge, a\\nthousand times the more highly to be prized, since it was not of\\nthe sort that is to be gathered from books, but only from the lips\\nof those who have acted a part in the world.\\nWhen after nine days of sailing, or trying to sail, we found\\nourselves still hanging by the mainland to the north of the Isle\\nof Cyprus, we determined to disembark at Satalieh and to proceed\\nfrom thence by land. A light breeze favored our purpose, and\\nit was with great delight that we neared the fragrant land, and\\nA title signifying Transcender or Conqueror of Satalieh.", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0248.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "chap, xxix.] SURPRISE OF SATALIEH.\\n227\\nsaw our anchor go down in the bay of Satalieh, within two or\\nthree hundred yards of the shore.\\nThe town of Satalieh* is the chief place of the Pashalik in\\nwhich it is situate, and its citadel is the residence of the Pasha.\\nWe had scarcely dropped our anchor when a boat from the\\nshore came alongside, with officers on board, who announced\\nthat the strictest orders had been received for maintaining a qua-\\nrantine of three weeks against all vessels coming from Syria,\\nand directed accordingly that no one from the vessel should dis-\\nembark. In reply we sent a message to the Pasha, setting forth\\nthe rank and titles of the General, and requiring permission to\\ngo ashore. After a while the boat came again alongside, and the\\nofficers declaring that the orders received from Constantinople\\nwere imperative and unexceptional, formally enjoined us in the\\nname of the Pasha to abstain from any attempt to land.\\nI had been hitherto much less impatient of our slow voyage\\nthan my gallant friend, but this opposition made the smooth sea\\nseem to me like a prison from which I must and would break\\nout. I had an unbounded faith in the feebleness of Asiatic Po-\\ntentates, and I proposed that we should set the Pasha at defiance.\\nThe General had been worked up to a state of the most painful\\nagitation by the idea of being driven from the shore which\\nsmiled so pleasantly before his eyes, and he adopted my sugges-\\ntion with rapture.\\nWe determined to land.\\nTo approach the sweet shore after a tedious voyage, and then\\nto be suddenly and unexpectedly prohibited from landing, this\\nis so maddening to the temper that no one who had ever experi-\\nenced the trial would say that even the most violent impatience\\nof such restraint is wholly inexcusable. I am not going to pre-\\ntend, however, that the course which we chose to adopt on this\\noccasion can be perfectly justified. The impropriety of a tra-\\nveller s setting at naught the regulations of a foreign state is\\nclear enough, and the bad taste of compassing such a purpose\\nby mere gasconading, is still more glaringly plain. I knew\\nSpelt Attalia and sometimes Adalia in English books and\\nmaps.", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0249.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "228\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. xxix.\\nperfectly well that if the Pasha understood his duty, and had\\nenergy enough to perform it, he would order out a file of soldiers the\\nmoment we landed, and cause us both to be shot upon the beach,\\nwithout allowing more contact than might be absolutely necessary\\nfor the purpose of making us stand fire, but I also firmly believed\\nthat the Pasha would not see the line of conduct which he ought to\\nadopt nearly so well as I did, and that even if he did know his duty\\nhe would never be able to find resolution enough to perform it.\\nWe ordered the boat to be got in readiness, and the officers on\\nshore seeing these preparations, gathered together a number of\\nguards who assembled upon the sands we saw that great ex-\\ncitement prevailed, and that messengers were continually going\\nto and fro between the shore and the citadel. Our Captain, out\\nof compliment to his Excellency, had provided the vessel with a\\nRussian war-flag, which he had hoisted alternately with the\\nUnion Jack, and we agreed that we would attempt our disem-\\nbarkation under this, the Russian standard I was glad when\\nwe came to that resolution, for I should have been very sorry to\\nengage the honored flag of England in such an affair as that\\nwhich we were undertaking. The Russian ensign was there-\\nfore committed to one of the sailors, who took his station at the\\nstern of the boat. We gave particular instructions to the Captain\\nof the Brigantine, and when all was ready, the General and I\\nwithout our respective servants got into the boat, and were slow-\\nly rowed towards the shore. The guards gathered together at\\nthe point for which we were making, but when they saw our\\nboat went on without altering her course, they ceased to stand\\nvery still none of them ran away or even shrank back, but\\nthey looked as if the pack were being shuffled, every man seem-\\ning desirous to change places with his neighbor. They were\\nstill at their post however when our oars went in, and the bow\\nof our boat ran up well up upon the beach.\\nThe General was lame by an honorable wound which he had\\ngained at Borodino, and required some assistance in getting out\\nof the boat I, therefore, landed the first. My instructions to\\nthe Captain were attended to with the most perfect accuracy, for\\nscarcely had my foot indented the sand, when the four six-\\npounders of the Brigantine sublimely rolled out their brute", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0250.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "chap, xxix.] SURPRISE OF SATALIEH.\\n229\\nthunder. Precisely as I had expected, the guards, and all the\\npeople who had gathered about them, gave way under the shock\\nproduced by the mere sound of guns, and we were all allowed\\nto disembark without the least molestation.\\nWe immediately formed a little column, or rather, as I should\\nhave called it, a procession, for we had no fighting aptitude in\\nus, and were only trying, as it were, how far we could go in\\nfrightening full-grown children. First marched the sailor with\\nthe Russian flag of war bravely flying in the breeze then came\\nthe General and I then our servants, and lastly, if I rightly\\nrecollect, two more of the Brigantine s crew. Our flag-bearer\\nentered into the spirit of the enterprise, and bore the standard\\naloft with so much pomp and dignity, that I found it exceedingly\\nhard to keep a grave countenance. We advanced towards the\\ncastle, but the people had now had time to recover from the\\neffect of the six-pounders (which were only, of course, loaded\\nwith powder), and they could not help seeing, not only the weak-\\nness of our party, but the very slight amount of pomp and power\\nwhich it seemed to imply they began to hang round us more\\nclosely, and just as this reaction was beginning, the General,\\nwho was perfectly unacquainted with the Asiatic character,\\nthoughtlessly turned round in order to speak to one of the ser-\\nvants the effect of this slight move was magical the people\\nthought we were going to give way, and instantly closed round\\nus. In two words, and with one touch, I showed my comrade\\nthe danger he was running, and in the next instant we were\\nboth advancing more pompously than ever. Some minutes\\nafterwards there was a second appearance of reaction, followed\\nao-ain by wavering and indecision on the part of the Pasha s\\npeople, but at length it seemed to be understood that we should\\ngo unmolested into the audience hall.\\nConstant communication had been going on between the re-\\nceding crowd and the Pasha, and so when we reached the gates\\nof the citadel we saw that preparations were made for giving\\nus an awe-striking reception. Parting at once from the sailors\\nand our servants, the General and I were conducted into the\\naudience hall and there at least I suppose the Pasha hoped\\nthat he would confound us by his greatness. The hall was", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0251.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "230\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXIX.\\nnothing more than a large white-washed room Oriental poten-\\ntates have a pride in that sort of simplicity when they can\\ncontrast it with the exhibition of power, and this the Pasha was\\nable to do, for the lower end of the hall was filled with his offi-\\ncers these men, of whom I thought there were about fifty or\\nsixty, were all handsomely though plainly dressed in the mili-\\ntary frock-coats of Europe they stood in mass and so as to\\npresent a hollow, semicircular front towards the upper end of\\nthe hall at which the Pasha sat they opened a narrow lane for\\nus when we entered, and as soon as we had passed they again\\nclosed up their ranks. An attempt was made to induce us to\\nremain at a respectful distance from his Mightiness to have\\nyielded in this point would have been fatal to our success, perhaps\\nto our lives but the General and I had already determined\\nupon the place which we should take, and we rudely pushed on\\ntowards the upper end of the hall.\\nUpon the divan and close up against the right hand corner of\\nthe room there sat the Pasha his limbs gathered in the whole\\ncreature coiled up like an adder. His cheeks were deadly pale,\\nand his lips had turned white, for without moving a muscle the\\nman impressed me with an immense idea of wrath within him.\\nHe kept his eyes inexorably fixed, as if upon vacancy, and with\\nthe look of a man accustomed to refuse the prayers of those\\nwho sue for life. We soon discomposed him, however, from\\nthis studied fixity of feature, for we marched straight up to the\\ndivan and sat down, the Russian close to the Pasha, and I by\\nthe side of the Russian. This act astonished the attendants and\\nplainly disconcerted the Pasha he could no longer maintain\\nthe glassy stillness of the eyes which he had affected, and evi-\\ndently became -much agitated. At the feet of the Satrap there\\nstood a trembling Italian this man was a sort of medico in the\\npotentate s service, and now, in the absence of our attendants,\\nhe was to act as interpreter. The Pasha caused him to tell us\\nthat we had openly defied his authority, and had forced our way\\nupon shore in the teeth of his own officers.\\nUp to this time I had been the planner of the enterprise, but\\nnow that the moment had come when all would depend upon able\\nand earnest speechifying, I felt at once the immense superiority", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0252.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "chap, xxix.] SURPRISE OF SATALIEH.\\n231\\nof my gallant friend, and gladly left to him the whole conduct\\nof the discussion indeed he had vast advantages over me, not\\nonly by his superior command of language, and his far more\\nspirited style of address, but also in his consciousness of a good\\ncause, for whilst I felt myself completely in the wrong, his\\nExcellency had really worked himself up to believe that the\\nPasha s refusal to permit our landing was a gross outrage and\\ninsult. Therefore, without deigning to defend our conduct, he\\nat once commenced a spirited attack upon the Pasha. The poor\\nItalian Doctor translated one or two sentences to the Pasha, but\\nhe evidently mitigated their import the Russian, growing warm,\\ninsisted upon his attack with redoubled energy and spirit but\\nthe medico, instead of translating, began to shake violently with\\nterror, and at last he came out with his non ardisco, and\\nfairly confessed that he dared not interpret fierce words to his\\nmaster.\\nNow then, at a time when everything seemed to depend upon\\nthe effect of speech, we were left without an interpreter.\\nBut this very circumstance, which at first appeared so un-\\nfavorable, turned out to be advantageous. The General, finding\\nthat he could not have his words translated, ceased to speak in\\nItalian, and recurred to his accustomed French he became\\neloquent no one present, except myself, understood one syllable\\nof what he was saying, but he had drawn forth his passport, and\\nthe energy and violence with which, as he spoke, he pointed to\\nthe graven Eagle of Russia, began to make an impression the\\nPasha saw at his side a man, who not only seemed to be entirely\\nwithout fear, but to be raging with just indignation, and thence-\\nforward he plainly began to think that in some way or other (he\\ncould not tell how), he must certainly have been in the wrong.\\nIn a little time he was so much shaken, that the Italian ventured\\nto resume his interpretation, and my comrade had again the op-\\nportunity of pressing his attack upon the Pasha his argument,\\nif I rightly recollect its import, was to this effect If the vilest\\nJews were to come into the harbor, you would but forbid them\\nto land, and force them to perform quarantine, yet this is the\\nvery, course, O Pasha, which your rash officers dared to think of\\nadopting with us those mad and reckless men would have", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0253.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "232\\nEOTHEN.\\n[chap. XXIX.\\nactually dealt towards a Russian General Officer and an Eng-\\nlish Gentleman as if they had been wretched Israelites Never,\\nnever, will we submit to such an indignity. His Imperial\\nMajesty knows how to protect his nobles from insult, and would\\nnever endure that a General of his army should be treated in\\nmatter of quarantine, as though he were a mere Eastern Jew\\nThis argument told with great effect the Pasha fairly admitted\\nthat he felt its weight, and he now only struggled to obtain a\\ncompromise, which might seem to save his dignity he wanted\\nus to perform a quarantine of one day for form s sake, and in\\norder to show his people that he was not utterly defied, but\\nfinding that we were inexorable, he not only abandoned his\\nattempt, but promised to supply us with horses.\\nWhen the discussion had arrived at this happy conclusion,\\ntchibouques and coffee were brought, and we passed, I think,\\nnearly an hour in friendly conversation. The Pasha, it now ap-\\npeared, had once been a prisoner of war in Russia, and the con-\\nviction of the Emperor s power, which he must have acquired\\nduring his captivity, probably rendered him more alive than an\\nuntravelled Turk would have been to the force of my comrade s\\neloquence.\\nThe Pasha now gave us a generous feast our promised hor-\\nses were brought without much delay I gained my loved saddle\\nonce more, and when the moon got up and touched the heights\\nof Taurus, we were joyfully winding our way through one of\\nhis rugged defiles.\\nTHE END.\\n3)477-7", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0254.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0255.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0256.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0257.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "Deacidiiied using the Bookkeeper process.\\nNeutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide\\nTreatment Date: Dec. 2002\\nPreservationTechnologies\\nA WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION\\n1 1 1 Thomson Park Drive\\nCranberry Township, PA 16066\\n(724) 779-2111", "height": "4512", "width": "2924", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0258.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4468", "width": "2864", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0259.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4786", "width": "3172", "jp2-path": "eothenortracesof00king_1_0260.jp2"}}