{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4255", "width": "2515", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3977", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4008", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4000", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN", "height": "4000", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4000", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "LONDON: GEORGE BELL AND SONS: 1898", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "MS\\nCHTSWICK PRESS I CHARLES WHITTINGHAM AND CO.\\nTOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS\\nPAGE\\nIntroduction ix\\nPreface xxi\\nCHAP.\\nI. Over the Border i\\nII. Journey from Belgrade to Constantin-\\nople 12\\nIII. Constantinople 26\\nIV. The Troad 35\\nV. Infidel Smyrna 42\\nVI. Greek Mariners 53\\nVII. Cyprus 62\\nVIII. Lady Hester Stanhope 69\\nIX. The Sanctuary 94\\nX. The Monks of the Holy Land .98\\nXI. From Nazareth to Tiberias .105\\nXII. My first Bivouac 109\\nXIII. The Dead Sea 117\\nXIV. The Black Tents 123\\nXV. Passage of the Jordan 126\\nXVI. Terra Santa 132\\nXVII. The Desert 149\\nXVIII. Cairo and the Plague 173\\nXIX. The Pyramids 198\\nXX. The Sphynx 202\\nXXI. Cairo to Suez 204\\nXXII. Suez 212\\nXXIII. Suez to Gaza 218\\nXXIV. Gaza to Nablous 225\\nXXV. Mariam 230\\nXXVI. The Prophet Damoor .239\\nXXVII. Damascus 244\\nXXVIII. Pass of the Lebanon 252\\nXXIX. Surprise of Satalieh 256\\nIndex of Names 265", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "ILLUSTRATIONS\\nEastern Travel Frontispiece\\n^Passage of the Jordan Face p. 130\\ni Map of the Author s Route End", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nTHE charm of a First Edition appeals to literary\\nrather f han to dilettante instinct. An Editio\\nPrinceps, the first appearance in type of a Book\\nlong extant in manuscript, illustrates the progress\\nnot of letters but of typography its value lies in\\nprinting, paper, colophon, irrespective of our interest\\nin the writer whom it embalms. But a First Edition\\nis the actual birth of a new book; it brings us\\nnearer to the author whom we love by the immediate\\ntransference into book form of his creations, fresh\\nfrom his devising and correcting pen, and reflecting\\nhis joy in their production. The development of\\nthis feeling during the last few years, evidenced by\\nthe extraordinary prices paid for earliest impressions\\nof books like The Vicar of Wakefield, The Com-\\nplete Angler, or The Essays of Elia, bespeak not\\nbibliomaniac craze but genuine literary feeling;\\nfeeling indeed so genuine as to be satisfied where\\nthe originals are unattainable with exact reprints,\\nrendering no less faithfully the spontaneous produce\\nof a favourite author s brain, free from the later\\nrevisions, which impair rather than improve its\\nfreshness.\\nThis volume therefore claims acceptance as an\\naccurate reprint of the now scarce First Edition. It\\npreserves the eccentric punctuation of an ungram-", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "X\\nINTRODUCTION\\nmatical Etonian in pre-local-examination days the\\noriginal headings of the chapters; words and\\nphrases, near seventy in number, altered in the later\\nissues; long paragraphs subsequently omitted or\\ntransposed. We read, for instance, in the third\\nedition that the author emerged from his Dead Sea\\nbath, his skin thickly encrusted with salt. It\\nstands here on p. 122 as sulphate of magnesia,\\na quaint venture by an unscientific man, which\\nwould have added pungency to Huxley s famous\\nsneer, as proving Lot s wife to have been changed\\ninto Epsom salts. The altered sentence, in that\\nthere was true hospitality, appears here on p. 179\\nas that touch was worthy of Jove while the\\nstill scarcely intelligible enure for salvation\\nstands (p. 142) originally as inure. Eothen appears\\nas Eothen. We find retained on p. 203 the com-\\npliment to Eliot Warburton restored too his in-\\nteresting note on p. 84, erased in the third edition\\nafter the publication of his Crescent and Cross.\\nThe large, curious, coloured folding plate, which\\nformed the frontispiece in the first edition, was\\nafterwards rendered by a coarser uncoloured litho-\\ngraph, not nearly so accurate as the picture here\\ntransferred. It was drawn and painted by Kinglake,\\nand was compared by the critics to a tea tray. The\\nTatar is perched upon his little steed, as he\\nappeared impressed in shining gold on the original\\ncover. The two foremost of the figures in the rear\\nstand for Mysseri, and Steel the Yorkshire servant,\\nhis striped pantry jacket coloured in the folding\\nplate, looking out for gentlemen s seats. Behind\\nis Methley, Lord Pollington, in a broad-brimmed\\nhat and the leg and boot of Kinglake, who", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nxi\\nmodestly hid his figure by a tree, but exposed his\\nfoot, of which he was very proud. Of the other\\ncharacters, Carrigaholt was Henry Stuart Burton of\\nCarrigaholt, County Clare; Our Lady of Bitter-\\nness, p. xxi, was the name given by Thackeray,\\nBrowning, and Kinglake to witty shrewish Ann\\nSkepper, daughter of Basil Montagu s third wife,\\nand herself the wife of Barry Cornwall whose\\nsarcasm once stung Crabb Robinson into his one\\nill-natured speech anecdotes of herself and of her\\ncrisp, biting talk are given in Fanny Kemble s\\nRecollections. An error rectified in the third\\nedition, the substitution of Jove for Neptune on\\npp. 40, 41, is here indicated in a note; another,\\non p. 245, deserves correction. It is true that\\nan attempt was made to non-placet Mr. Everett s\\nhonorary degree in the Oxford Theatre on the\\nground of his being a Unitarian not true that it\\nsucceeded. It was a conspiracy by the young lions\\nof the Newmania, who had organized a formidable\\nopposition to the degree, and would have created a\\npainful scene even if defeated. But the Proctor of\\nthat year, Jelf, happened to be the most-hated\\nofficial of the century; and the furious groans of\\nundergraduate displeasure at his presence, continu-\\ning unabated for three-quarters of an hour, com-\\npelled the Vice-Chancellor to break up the Assembly,\\nwithout recitation of the prizes, but not without\\nconferring the degrees in dumb show unconscious\\nMr. Everett smilingly took his place in red gown\\namong the Doctors, the Vice-Chancellor asserting\\nafterwards, what was true in the letter though not\\nin the spirit, that he did not hear the non-placets.\\nSo while Everett was obnoxious to the Puseyites,", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "xii\\nINTRODUCTION\\nJelf was obnoxious to the undergraduates the ca:\\nnonade of the angry youngsters drowned the odiui\\nof the theological malcontents\\nAnother lion gave another roar,\\nAnd the first lion thought the last a bore.\\nFor a complete Memoir of Kinglake there are n\\nmaterials by his dying request all his recoverabl\\nletters and papers were destroyed. The men wh\\nknew him in his prime, who dined with him an\\nshared his talk behind the glass screen at th\\nAthenaeum, Milnes, Hayward, Massey, Merivak\\nTwisleton, American Ticknor, and their brilliar\\nsodales, have all passed away as has his favourit\\nbrother, Dr. Kinglake, himself a man at once greatl\\nbeloved and highly gifted, and the brilliant sistc\\nwhom Thackeray noted as the cleverest woman h\\nhad ever met. Some Sibylline leaves there ar\\nwhich the wind has not scattered beyond recall j If\\nus gather and piece them while we may. He ws\\nborn at Taunton, arid\u00c2\u00ae nutrix for a young man c\\npromise its religion imbecile, its society Philistint\\nits politics consistently venal. But his mother wa\\na woman of great personal charm and with n\\nordinary powers of mind more than once he write\\nof her with devoted gratitude it is recorded that o\\nthe day of her funeral, at a churchyard five mile\\naway, he was missed from the family group reasserr\\nbled in the mourning home he was found to hav\\nordered his horse, and galloped back in the darl\\nness to his mother s grave. She belonged to an ol\\nSomersetshire family, the Woodfordes of Castl\\nCary it was as his mother s son that Lady Heste\\nStanhope, her neighbour long before at Burto", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nxiii\\nPynsent, received him in her Lebanon stronghold.\\nHe went to Eton and to Cambridge debarred by\\nshort-sightedness from the military profession which\\nabove all others he would have preferred, he was\\ncalled to the Bar and gained an extensive Chancery\\npractice. His visit to the East was in 1834 the\\ndate is given on p. 190, but he afterwards suppressed\\nit when he was only twenty-three years old, and\\nlasted fifteen months. Brought out in 1844, after\\nbeing rejected by several publishers, Eothen at\\nonce became popular, passing in the following year\\nthrough three fresh editions. In 1857 he entered\\nParliament for Bridgwater, broke down in his first\\nspeech, and it is said never spoke again he enjoyed,\\nhowever, his Parliamentary life, and was bitterly\\nmortified when in 1868 he was unseated for alleged\\nbribery on the part of his agents. He was never\\nmarried having observed, he used to say, that\\nwives always prefer other men to their own husbands\\nbut he was blandly alive to female charms the\\npictures in Eothen of the romping Bethlehem girls,\\nof the roguish Ottoman lady in Constantinople\\nstreets, of the majestic Smyrnians and bewitching\\nCypriots; his compassion for the ugly Bedouin\\nwomen, and for the Dead Sea goatherd with his\\nplain -faced wife; are pleasantly and healthily\\namorous, not villainous, as Iachimo distinguished\\nthe innocent freedom of poor Imogen his gallant\\nconfidences, ever playful and unsuggestive, bespeak\\nnot the tainted libertine, but the susceptible, soft-\\nhearted, wholesome-minded bachelor. He used to\\nwish that the Church had Priestesses as well as\\nPriests, the former to be the Egerias of men as the\\nlatter are the shepherds of women. In general", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "xiv\\nINTRODUCTION\\nsociety he was easily checked and most easily bored\\nI remember how once at a well-selected dinner party,\\nwhere Dr. Temple and Dean Lake were present,\\nand where he came inclined to talk his best, a\\nsecond-hand criticism on his Crimea by a foolish\\nparson, the official and incongruous element in the\\ngroup, stiffened him into persistent silence. A lady\\nused to say that his pulse ought to be felt always\\nafter the first course, and that if it showed languor\\nhe should be moved to the side of some other\\npartner. Mrs. Andrew Crosse, who if not the rose\\nwas very near the rose, and came in contact vicari-\\nously with Kinglake among other notables, relates\\nthat during his fatal illness the Duke of Bedford\\nregaled his dying friend by enlarging on the advant-\\nages of cremation. The Duke offers you crema-\\ntion, said he, as the Duchess would offer you a\\nbox at the opera. Cremated he was at Woking in\\n1 89 1, and the Duke was there to see.\\nEothen has long since soared into a classic\\neclipsed for a time by the contemporary interest\\nattaching to The Invasion of the Crimea, it\\nholds again the estimation which it secured at first,\\nas the book by which his name in English litera-\\nture will permanently survive. Narratives of cam-\\npaigns and wars abound read eagerly at the time,\\nthey pass to our upper shelves as the operations\\nwhich they commemorate are forgotten, emerging\\nonly as text-books for professional students. This\\nfate would seem already to have overtaken The\\nInvasion of the Crimea in the very qualities\\nwhich made it successful at the time, the glitter,\\nrapidity, point, effectiveness, as of the newspaper\\ncorrespondent or editorial, it missed the measured j", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nXV\\ngrace essential to the highest art its style declined,\\nto quote the imagery of Matthew Arnold, from\\nthe Attic to the Corinthian. He lavished on it\\nfar more pains than on Eothen passage after\\npassage was again and again re-written, a calligraphic\\nTaunton bookseller being employed to disentangle\\nfor the printers the chaotic manuscript of a hand\\nnot too legible at its best. But though the style was\\nincomparable for its immediate purpose of vindi-\\ncating, damaging, triumphing though the Battle of\\nthe Alma must ever probably take rank as the most\\ngraphic diorama in all military history, yet men\\nwere bored after a time by the Great Elchi the ag-\\ngressive strictures and strategic criticisms were seen\\nto be biassed by affection for Lord Raglan while\\nthe mercilessly vindictive portraiture of the Second\\nEmpire was notoriously prompted by personal ran-\\ncour C est un livre ignoble said Louis Napoleon\\nwhen he read the book. And so, as a Work of Art,\\nEothen recovered its pre-eminence, unrivalled\\nand unique among English books of travel, both as\\nregards style and treatment. The keynote of the\\ntreatment is its egotism it is, or it professes to be,\\nwritten to an intimate acquaintance, who will care\\nless for the towns and countries, scenes and char-\\nacters, Jews, Turks, and Infidels, amongst whom or\\nwhich his friend the writer moved, than for his own\\nI impression of these things, for the realities of Eastern\\ntravel as they affected his feelings and sensations.\\nIt was a venturesome assumption that talk so purely\\npersonal could succeed in interesting that wider\\npublic to whom the narrative must be everything\\nand the narrator nothing perhaps not one man in\\na hundred could have achieved it without becoming,\\nb", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "xvi\\nINTRODUCTION\\nsometimes at least, intrusive and ridiculous. But\\nKinglake was that one: under the spell of his reliant\\nindividuality we are flattered, not affronted, by the\\nconfidence of the proud, shy, eloquent man; we\\nprefer the experiential diary, such as no one else could\\ngive, to the mere scenic descriptions which form the\\nstaple of an ordinary traveller. When he ceases to\\nbe personal the spell is broken the tales of Mariam\\nand Damoor, in which he takes no part, form the least\\nattractive chapters in the book. Again, the writing\\nwooes us by its strong persuasive truthfulness. Dr.\\nJohnson at Iona, Charles Dickens at Niagara, say\\nthe correct thing put into epigram or rhapsody the\\nsentiments proper to the place we feel, like the\\nNorthern Farmer, that they have said what they\\nought to say, and we come away. Kinglake is too\\nwell-bred for gush, too idiocratic for conventional-\\nism that he can feel the genius of an old poetic\\nspot he lets us know from time to time, as in his\\npeep at the Mysian Olympus, his apostrophe to the\\ngardens of Damascus, his brief moralizing on the\\nSphynx, his meditations before the coast-line of the\\nTroad, that fixed horizon, unchanged in rock and\\nsand, on which for nine years the eyes of the Grecian\\nwarriors were daily and resentfully fixed and we\\nare told that in speaking of his travels he would\\nvividly recall his emotion in Jerusalem and Galilee\\nbut he will not court the sensibility which does not\\nnaturally spring; tells us that in Tibeiias the fleas\\nforbade sentiment, that the Pyramids plagued him\\nwith a De Quincey-like reminiscence of infantine\\ndreams, that at Gennesareth thoughts of Windermere\\nexpunged Gospel memories. He tries hard for Pagan\\nfervour at Paphos, for Christian ecstasy beside the", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION\\nxvii\\nVirgin s broken column at Nazareth gives us in\\neach case a page of rodomontade the only rodo-\\nmontade in the book then breaks off with a saucy\\nlaugh, as if to say See what I might have made\\nyou suffer Except in these two cynical experiments\\nthe relation is absolutely unforced; there are no\\npurple patches visibly sewn on as in Macaulay\\nnone of the limce labor, the poetic pains, which the\\npractised critic discerns in Ruskin s miracles of\\ndescription through the matchless polish overlying\\nthem easy, luxuriant, undulating, the facile strain\\nflows on, sown thick as was his happier talk with\\nnegligent epigrams and picked inevitable phrases,\\nrising now and then, as in the dismal vision of the\\nDead Sea, into eloquence naturally evolved, not\\nmechanically constructed, the momentary inspiration\\noverpowering the habitual self-restraint.\\nI am old enough to recall the welcome which the\\nbook received upon its first appearance. It arrested\\nold and young, men of the club and library, under-\\ngraduates, schoolboys, even domestic servants the\\nmessenger at New College, an eccentric college scout\\nold Wykehamists will remember Richard Swallow\\nknew the book by heart, and used to linger talking\\nof it in our rooms. And its spell is unbroken to-day;\\nalone of contemporary books of Oriental travel\\nLord Carlisle s, Lord Lindsey s, Lord Nugent s,\\nCurzon s, even Eliot Warburton s it is again and\\nagain reproduced with bibliopolist certainty of an au-\\ndience, is devoured senibus puerisque with unflagging\\nfreshness of enjoyment. If Macaulay s dictum be\\na sound one, that the books you read most joyously\\nare the books you know by heart, that condition of\\nappetite is ours. The inimitable conference with", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "xviii INTRODUCTION\\nthe Pasha, the glorification of Pope s Homer, the\\ncomparison between childish and schoolboy pupil-\\nage, the Dead Sea bivouac, the obituary of the\\nstricken Levantine, the invocation of Keate from\\nthe Shades, the tearful agony of the camels, con-\\nstrained to pass from their desert home within the\\nhated city walls, the splendid analysis of the Desert\\nride and halt, affect us with the two-fold magic\\nof present judgment satisfied and boyish delight\\nrevived. To gladden equally with the self-same\\nwords the reluctant inexperience of childhood and\\nthe acquired insight of maturity is a note of genius\\nas transcendent as it is rare it sparkles dominant,\\ncontinuous, enthralling, in every page and paragraph\\nof Eothen.\\nW. T.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "[Title of the First Edition]\\nEOTHEN\\nOR\\nTRACES OF TRAVEL\\nBROUGHT HOME\\nFROM THE EAST\\nITpo? hi ts not nkiov avctroXa? Itto .Uto tt)v obov.\\nHEROD. VII. 58.\\nLONDON\\nJOHN OLLIVIER, 59, PALL MALL\\n1844", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "I", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "PREFACE\\nADDRESSED BY\\nTHE AUTHOR TO ONE OF HIS FRIENDS\\nWHEN you first entertained the idea of travelling\\nin the East, you asked me to send you an out-\\nline of the tour which I had made, in order that you\\nmight the better be able to choose a route for yourself.\\nIn answer to this request, I gave you a large French\\nmap, on which the course of my journeys had been\\ncarefully marked; but I did not conceal from myself, that\\nthis was rather a dry mode for a man to adopt, when\\nhe wished to impart the results of his experience to a\\ndear, and intimate friend. Now, long before the period\\nof your planning an Oriental tour, I had intended to\\nwrite some account of my Eastern Travels. I had\\nindeed begun the task, and had failed I had begun it\\na second time, and failing again, had abandoned my\\nattempt with a sensation of utter distaste. I was un-\\nable to speak out, and chiefly, I think, for this reason\\nthat I knew not to whom I was speaking. It might\\nbe you, or, perhaps, our Lady of Bitterness, who would\\nread my story or it might be some member of the\\nRoyal Statistical Society, and how on earth was I to\\nwrite in a way that would do for all three?\\nWell your request for a sketch of my tour suggested\\nto me the idea of complying with your wish by a revival\\nof my twice-abandoned attempt. I tried, and the\\npleasure, and confidence which I felt in speaking to\\nyou, soon made my task so easy, and even amusing,", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "xxii\\nPREFACE\\nthat after a while, (though not in time for your tour,) I\\ncompleted the scrawl from which this book was origin-\\nally printed.\\nThe very feeling, however, which enabled me to\\nwrite thus freely, prevented me from robing my\\nthoughts in that grave and decorous style which I\\nshould have maintained if I had professed to lecture\\nthe public. Whilst I feigned to myself that you, and\\nyou only, were listening, I could not by possibility\\nspeak very solemnly. Heaven forbid that I should\\ntalk to my own genial friend, as though he were a great\\nand enlightened Community, or any other respectable\\nAggregate\\nYet I well understood that the mere fact of my pro-\\nfessing to speak to you rather than to the public\\ngenerally, could not perfectly excuse me for printing\\na narrative too roughly worded, and accordingly, in\\nrevising the proof sheets, I have struck out those\\nphrases which seemed to be less fit for a published\\nvolume than for intimate conversation. It is hardly\\nto be expected, however, that correction of this kind\\nshould be perfectly complete, or that the almost boister-\\nous tone in which many parts of the book were originally\\nwritten should be thoroughly subdued. I venture,\\ntherefore, to ask, that the familiarity of language still\\npossibly apparent in the work, may be laid to the\\naccount of our delightful intimacy, rather than to any\\npresumptuous motive I feel, as you know, much too\\ntimidly too distantly, and too respectfully towards the\\nPublic, to be capable of seeking to put myself on\\nterms of easy fellowship with strange and casual\\nreaders.\\nIt is right to forewarn people (and I have tried to do\\nthis as well as I can, by my studiously unpromising\\ntitle-page that the book is quite superficial in its\\n1 Eothen is, I hope, almost the only hard word to be found\\nin the book; it is written in Greek hSiQsv, (Attice, with an\\naspirated e instead of the and signifies, from the early\\ndawn, from the East. Bonn. Lex. 4th edition.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "PREFACE\\nxxiii\\ncharacter. I have endeavoured to discard from it all\\nvaluable matter derived from the works of others, and\\nit appears to me that my efforts in this direction have\\nbeen attended with great success I believe I may\\ntruly acknowledge, that from all details of geographical\\ndiscovery, or antiquarian research from all display of\\nsound learning, and religious knowledge M from all\\nhistorical and scientific illustrations from all useful\\nstatistics from all political disquisitions and from\\nall good moral reflections, the volume is thoroughly\\nfree.\\nMy excuse for the book is its truth you and I know\\na man fond of hazarding elaborate jokes, who, whenever\\na story of his happens not to go down as wit, will evade\\nthe awkwardness of the failure, by bravely maintaining\\nthat all he has said is pure fact. I can honestly take\\nthis decent, though humble mode of escape. My\\nnarrative is not merely righteously exact in matters of\\nfact (where fact is in question), but it is true in this\\nlarger sense it conveys not those impressions which\\nought to have been produced upon any well constituted\\nmind, but those which were really, and truly received\\nat the time of his rambles, by a headstrong, and not\\nvery amiable traveller, whose prejudices in favour of\\nother people s notions were then exceedingly slight.\\nAs I have felt, so I have written and the result is,\\nthat there will often be found in my narrative a jarring-\\ndiscord between the associations properly belonging to\\ninteresting sites, and the tone in which I speak of them.\\nThis seemingly perverse mode of treating the subject\\nis forced upon me by my plan of adhering to senti-\\nmental truth, and really does not result from any\\nimpertinent wish to teaze or trifle with readers. 1\\nought, for instance, to have felt as strongly in Judaea,\\nas in Galilee, but it was not so in fact the religious\\nsentiment (born in solitude) which had heated my\\nbrain in the Sanctuary of Nazareth was rudely chilled\\nat the foot of Zion, by disenchanting scenes, and this\\nchange is accordingly disclosed by the perfectly", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "xxiv\\nPREFACE\\nworldly tone in which I speak of Jerusalem and\\nBethlehem.\\nMy notion of dwelling precisely upon those matters\\nwhich happened to interest me, and upon none other,\\nwould of course be intolerable in a regular book of\\ntravels. If I had been passing through countries not\\npreviously explored, it would have been sadly perverse\\nto withhold careful descriptions of admirable objects,\\nmerely because my own feelings of interest in them\\nmay have happened to flag but where the countries\\nwhich one visits have been thoroughly, and ably de-\\nscribed, and even artistically illustrated by others, one\\nis fully at liberty to say as little (though not quite so\\nmuch) as one chooses. Now a traveller is a creature\\nnot always looking at sights he remembers (how\\noften I) the happy land of his birth he has, too, his\\nmoments of humble enthusiasm about fire, and food\\nabout shade, and drink and if he gives to these feel-\\nings anything like the prominence which really be-\\nlonged to them at the time of his travelling, he will not\\nseem a very good teacher once having determined to\\nwrite the sheer truth concerning the things which\\nchiefly have interested him, he must, and he will, sing\\na sadly long strain about Self he will talk for whole\\npages together about his bivouac fire, and ruin the\\nRuins of Baalbec with eight or ten cold lines.\\nBut it seems to me that the egotism of a traveller,\\nhowever incessant however shameless and obtrusive,\\nmust still convey some true ideas of the country\\nthrough which he has passed. His very selfishness\\nhis habit of referring the whole external world to his\\nown sensations, compels him, as it were, in his writings,\\nto observe the laws of perspective he tells you of\\nobjects, not as he knows them to be, but as they\\nseemed to him. The people, and the things that most\\nconcern him personally, however mean and insignific-\\nant, take large proportions in his picture, because they\\nstand so near to him. He shows you his Dragoman,\\nand the gaunt features of his Arabs his tent his", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "PREFACE\\nXXV\\nkneeling camels his baggage strewed upon the sand\\nbut the proper wonders of the land the cities the\\nmighty ruins, and monuments of bygone ages he throws\\nback faintly in the distance. It is thus that he felt, and\\nthus, he strives to repeat the scenes of the Elder\\nWorld. You may listen to him for ever without learn-\\ning much in the way of Statistics but, perhaps, if you\\nbear with him long enough, you may find yourself\\nslowly and slightly impressed with the realities of\\nEastern Travel.\\nMy scheme of refusing to dwell upon matters which\\nfailed to interest my own feelings, has been departed\\nfrom in one instance namely, in my detail of the late\\nLady Hester Stanhope s conversation on supernatural\\ntopics the truth is, that I have been much questioned\\non this subject, and I thought that my best plan would\\nbe to write down at once all that I could ever have to\\nsay concerning the personage whose career has excited\\nso much curiosity amongst Englishwomen. The result\\nis, that my account of the lady goes to a length which\\nis not justified either by the importance of the subject,\\nor by the extent to which it interested the narrator.\\nYou will see that I constantly speak of my People, 55\\nmy Party, 55 my Arabs, 55 and so on, using terms\\nwhich might possibly seem to imply that I moved\\nabout with a pompous retinue. This of course was not\\nthe case. I travelled with the simplicity proper to my\\nstation, as one of the industrious class, who was not\\nflying from his country because of ennui, but was\\nstrengthening his will, and tempering the metal of his\\nnature for that life of toil and conflict in which he\\nis now engaged. But an Englishman journeying in\\nthe East, must necessarily have with him Dragomen\\ncapable of interpreting the Oriental languages the\\nabsence of wheeled-carriages obliges him to use several\\nbeasts of burthen for his baggage, as well as for him-\\nself, and his attendants the owners of the horses, or\\ncamels, with their slaves or servants fall in as part of\\nhis train, and altogether the cavalcade becomes rather", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "xxyi\\nPREFACE\\nnumerous, without, however, occasioning any propor-\\ntionate increase of expense. When a traveller speaks\\nof all these followers in mass, he calls them his\\npeople, or his troop, or his party, 5 without in-\\ntending to make you believe that he is therefore a\\nSovereign Prince.\\nYou will see that I sometimes follow the custom of\\nthe Scots in f describing my fellow-countrymen by the\\nnames of their paternal homes.\\nOf course all these explanations are meant for casual\\nreaders. To you, without one syllable of excuse, or\\ndeprecation, and in all the confidence of a friendship\\nthat never yet was clouded, I give this long-promised\\nvolume, and add but one sudden Good-bye M for I\\ndare not stand greeting you here.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nCHAPTER I\\nOVER THE BORDER\\nAT Semlin I still was encompassed by the scenes,\\nand the sounds of familiar life the din of a busy\\nworld still vexed and cheered me the unveiled faces\\nof women still shone in the light of day. Yet, when-\\never I chose to look southward, I saw the Ottoman s\\nfortress austere, and darkly impending high over the\\nvale of the Danube historic Belgrade. I had come,\\nas it were, to the end of this wheel-going Europe, and\\nnow my eyes would see the Splendour and Havoc of\\nThe East.\\nThe two frontier towns are less than a cannon-shot\\ndistant, and yet their people hold no communion. The\\nHungarian on the North, and the Turk and Servian on\\nthe southern side of the Save are as much asunder as\\nthough there were fifty broad provinces that lay in the\\npath between them. Of the men that bustled around\\nme in the streets of Semlin, there was not, perhaps, one\\nwho had ever gone down to look upon the stranger\\nrace which dwells under the walls of that opposite\\ncastle. It is the Plague, and the dread of the Plague,\\nwhich divide the one people from the other. All\\ncoming and going stands forbidden by the terrors of\\nthe yellow flag. If you dare to break the laws of the\\nquarantine, you will be tried with military haste the\\ncourt will scream out your sentence to you from a tri-\\nB", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "2\\nEOTHEN\\nbunal some fifty yards off the priest, instead of gently\\nwhispering to you the sweet hopes of religion, will\\nconsole you at duelling distance, and after that you\\nwill find yourself carefully shot, and carelessly buried\\nin the ground of the Lazaretto.\\nWhen all was in order for our departure, we walked\\ndown to the precincts of the Quarantine Establishment,\\nand here awaited us a compromised 1 officer of the\\nAustrian Government, who lives in a state of perpetual\\nexcommunication. The boats, with their compro-\\nmised rowers, were also in readiness.\\nAfter coming in contact with any creature or thing\\nbelonging to the Ottoman Empire, it would be im-\\npossible for us to return to the Austrian territory with-\\nout undergoing an imprisonment of fourteen days in\\nthe odious Lazaretto we felt, therefore, that before we\\ncommitted ourselves, it was highly important to take\\ncare that none of the arrangements necessary for the\\njourney had been forgotten, and in our anxiety to avoid\\nsuch a misfortune, we managed the work of departure\\nfrom Semlin with nearly as much solemnity as if we\\nhad been departing this life. Some obliging persons\\nfrom whom we had received civilities during our short\\nstay in the place, came down to say their farewell at\\nthe river s side and now, as we stood with them at\\nthe distance of three or four yards from the compro-\\nmised officer, they asked if we were perfectly certain\\nthat we had wound up all our affairs in Christendom,\\nand whether we had no parting requests to make.\\nWe repeated the caution to our servants, and took\\nanxious thought lest by any possibility we might be cut\\noff from some cherished object of affection were\\nthey quite sure that there was no faithful portmanteau\\nno patient and longsuffering carpet-bag no fragrant\\n1 A compromised person is one who has been in contact\\nwith people or things supposed to be capable of conveying infec-\\ntion. As a general rule the whole Ottoman empire lies con-\\nstantly under this terrible ban. The 1 yellow flag is the ensign\\nof the Quarantine establishment.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "OVER- THE BORDER\\n3\\ndressing-case with its gold-compelling letters of credit\\nfrom which we might be parting for ever? No all\\nthese our loved ones lay safely stowed in the boat, and\\nwe were ready to follow them to the ends of the earth.\\nNow, therefore, we shook hands with our Semlin friends,\\nwho immediately retreated for three or four paces, so\\nas to leave us in the centre of a space between them\\nand the compromised officer the latter then advanced,\\nand asking once more if we had done with the civilized\\nworld, held forth his hand I met it with mine, and\\nthere was an end to Christendom for many a day to\\ncome.\\nWe soon neared the southern bank of the river, but\\nno sounds came down from the blank walls above, and\\nthere was no living thing that we could yet see, except\\none great hovering bird of the vulture race, flying low,\\nand intent, and wheeling round and round over the\\nPest-accused city.\\nBut presently there issued from the postern, a group\\nof human beings, beings with immortal souls, and\\npossibly some reasoning faculties, but to me the grand\\npoint was this, that they had real, substantia], and in-\\ncontrovertible turbans they made for the point towards\\nwhich we were steering, and when at last, I sprang\\nupon the shore, I heard, and saw myself now first sur-\\nrounded by men of Asiatic race I have since ridden\\nthrough the land of the Osmanlees, from the Servian\\nBorder to the Golden Horn, from the gulph of Satalieh\\nto the tomb of Achilles but never have I seen such\\nultra-Turkish looking fellows as those who received me\\non the banks of the Save they were men in the hum-\\nblest order of life, having come to meet our boat in the\\nhope of earning something by carrying our luggage up\\nto the city, but poor though they were, it was plain\\nthat they were Turks of the proud old school, and had\\nnot yet forgotten the fierce, careless bearing of the once\\nvictorious Ottomans.\\nThough the province of Servia generally, has obtained\\na kind of independence, yet Belgrade, as being a place", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "4\\nEOTHEN\\nof strength on the frontier, is still garrisoned by Turkish\\ntroops, under the command of a Pasha. Whether the\\nfellows who now surrounded us were soldiers, or peace-\\nful inhabitants, I did not understand they wore the\\nold Turkish costume vests and jackets of many and\\nbrilliant colours, divided from the loose petticoat-\\ntrowsers by masses of shawl, which were folded in\\nheavy volumes around their waists so as to give the\\nmeagre wearers something of the dignity of true cor-\\npulence. The shawl enclosed a whole bundle of\\nweapons no man bore less than one brace of im-\\nmensely long pistols, and a yataghan (or cutlass), with\\na dagger or two, of various shapes and sizes most of\\nthese arms were inlaid with silver, and highly burnished,\\nso that they contrasted shiningly with the decayed\\ngrandeur of the garments to which they were attached\\n(this carefulness of his arms is a point of honour with\\nthe Osmanlee, who never allows his bright yataghan\\nto suffer from his own adversity) then the long droop-\\ning mustachios, and the ample folds of the once white\\nturbans, that lowered over the piercing eyes, and the\\nhaggard features of the men, gave them an air of gloomy\\npride, and that appearance of trying to be disdainful\\nunder difficulties, which I have since seen so often in\\nthose of the Ottoman people who live, and remember\\nold times they seemed as if they were thinking that\\nthey would have been more usefully, more honourably,\\nand more piously employed in cutting our throats, than\\nin carrying our portmanteaus. The faithful Steel\\n(Methley s Yorkshire servant), stood aghast for a\\nmoment, at the sight of his master s luggage upon the\\nshoulders of these warlike porters, and when at last we\\nbegan to move up, he could scarcely avoid turning\\nround to cast one affectionate look towards Christen-\\ndom, but quickly again he marched on with the steps\\nof a man, not frightened exactly, but sternly prepared\\nfor death, or the Koran, or even for plural wives.\\nThe Moslem quarter of a city is lonely and desolate;\\nyou go up and down, and on over shelving and hillocky", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "OVER THE BORDER\\n5\\npaths through the narrow lanes walled in by blank,\\nwindowless dwellings you come out upon an open\\nspace strewed with the black ruins that some late fire\\nhas left you pass by a mountain of cast-away things,\\nthe rubbish of centuries, and on it you see numbers of\\nbig, wolf-like dogs lying torpid under the sun, with\\nlimbs outstretched to the full, as if they were dead\\nstorks, or cranes, sitting fearless upon the low roofs,\\nlook gravely down upon you the still air that you\\nbreathe is loaded with the scent of citron, and pome-\\ngranate rinds scorched by the sun, or (as you approach\\nthe Bazaar) with the dry, dead perfume of strange\\nspices. You long for some signs of life, and tread the\\nground more heavily, as though you would wake the\\nsleepers with the heel of your boot but the foot falls\\nnoiseless upon the crumbling soil of an eastern city,\\nand Silence follows you still. Again and again you\\nmeet turbans, and faces of men, but they have nothing\\nfor you no welcome no wonder no wrath no scorn\\nthey look upon you as we do upon a December s fall\\nof snow as a seasonable, unaccountable, uncom-\\nfortable work of God, that may have been sent for some\\ngood purpose, to be revealed hereafter.\\nSome people had come down to meet us with an in-\\nvitation from the Pasha, and we wound our way up to\\nthe castle. At the gates there were groups of soldiers,\\nsome smoking, and some lying flat like corpses upon\\nthe cool stones we went through courts, ascended\\nsteps, passed along a corridor, and walked into an airy,\\nwhite-washed room, with an European clock at one end\\nof it, and Moostapha Pasha at the other the fine, old,\\nbearded potentate looked very like Jove like Jove, too,\\nin the midst of his clouds, for the silvery fumes of the\\nNarguile 1 hung lightly circling round him.\\nThe Pasha received us with the smooth, kind, gentle\\n1 The Narguile is a water-pipe upon the plan of the Hookah,\\nbut more gracefully fashioned the smoke is drawn by a very\\nlong flexible tube that winds its snake -like way from the vase to\\nthe lips of the beatified smoker.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "6\\nEOTHEN\\nmanner that belongs to well-bred Osmanlees then he\\nlightly clapped his hands, and instantly the sound filled\\nall the lower end of the room with slaves a syllable\\ndropped from his lips which bowed all heads, and con-\\njured away the attendants like ghosts (their coming\\nand their going was thus swift and quiet, because their\\nfeet were bare, and they passed through no door, but\\nonly by the yielding folds of a purder). Soon the\\ncoffee bearers appeared, every man carrying separately\\nhis tiny cup in a small metal stand, and presently to\\neach of us there came a pipe-bearer, who first rested\\nthe bowl of the tchibouque^ at a measured distance on\\nthe floor, and then, on this axis, wheeled round the long\\ncherry stick, and gracefully presented it on half-bended\\nknee already the well-kindled fire was glowing secure\\nin the bowl, and so, when I pressed the amber lip to\\nmine, there was no coyness to conquer the willing\\nfume came up, and answered my slightest sigh, and\\nfollowed softly every breath inspired, till it touched me\\nwith some faint sense and understanding of Asiatic\\ncontentment. 1\\nAsiatic contentment Yet scarcely, perhaps, one\\nhour before, I had been wanting my bill, and ringing\\nfor waiters in a shrill and busy hotel.\\nIn the Ottoman dominions there is scarcely any\\nhereditary influence except that which belongs to the\\nfamily of the Sultan, and wealth, too, is a highly volatile\\nblessing, not easily transmitted to the descendants of\\nthe owner. From these causes it results, that the\\npeople standing in the place of nobles and gentry, are\\nofficial personages, and though many, (indeed the\\ngreater number), of these potentates are humbly born\\nand bred, you will seldom, I think, find them wanting\\nin that polished smoothness of manner, and those well\\nundulating tones which belong to the best Osmanlees.\\n1 Fine talking this, you will say, for one who can t smoke a\\ncigar but ask any Eastern traveller if it is not quite possible to\\nlove the tchibouque, and the narguile, without being able to\\nendure the European contrivances for smoking.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "OVER THE BORDER\\n7\\nThe truth is, that most of the men in authority have\\nrisen from their humble station by the arts of the\\ncourtier, and they preserve in their high estate, those\\ngentle powers of fascination to which they owe their\\nsuccess. Yet unless you can contrive to learn a little\\nof the language, you will be rather bored by your visits\\nof ceremony the intervention of the interpreter, or\\nDragoman as he is called, is fatal to the spirit of\\nconversation. I think I should mislead you if I were\\nto attempt to give the substance of any particular\\nconversation with Orientals. A traveller may write\\nand say that, the Pasha of So-and-Sowas particularly\\ninterested in the vast progress which has been made\\nin the application of steam, and appeared to under-\\nstand the structure of our machinery that he remarked\\nupon the gigantic results of our manufacturing industry\\nshewed that he possessed considerable knowledge of\\nour Indian affairs, and of the constitution of the Com-\\npany, and expressed a lively admiration of the many\\nsterling qualities for which the people of England are\\ndistinguished. But the heap of common-places thus\\nquietly attributed to the Pasha, will have been founded\\nperhaps on some such talking as this\\nPasha. The Englishman is welcome most blessed\\namong hours is this, the hour of his coming.\\nDragoman (to the Traveller). The Pasha pays you\\nhis compliments.\\nTraveller. Give him my best compliments in return,\\nand say Fm delighted to have the honour of seeing\\nhim.\\nDragoman (to the Pasha). His Lordship, this\\nEnglishman, Lord of London, S corner of Ireland,\\nSuppressor of France, has quitted his governments,\\nand left his enemies to breathe for a moment, and has\\ncrossed the broad waters in strict disguise, with a\\nsmall but eternally faithful retinue of followers, in\\norder that he might look upon the bright countenance\\nof the Pasha among Pashas the Pasha of the ever-\\nlasting Pashalik of Karagholookoldour.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "8\\nEOTHEN\\nTraveller (to his Dragoman). What on earth have\\nyou been saying about London? The Pasha will be\\ntaking me for a mere cockney. Have not I told you\\nalways to say, that I am from a branch of the family\\nof Mudcombe Park, and that I am to be a magistrate\\nfor the county of Bedfordshire, only I ve not qualified,\\nand that I should have been a Deputy-Lieutenant,\\nif it had not been for the extraordinary conduct of\\nLord Mountpromise, and that I was a candidate for\\nGoldborough at the last election, and that I should\\nhave won easy, if my committee had not been bought.\\nI wish to heaven that if you do say anything about\\nme, you d tell the simple truth.\\nDragoman [is silent].\\n^J^asha. What says the friendly Lord of London?\\nis there aught that I can grant him within the Pashalik\\nof Karagholookoldour\\nDragoinan (growing sulky and literal). This friendly\\nEnglishman this branch of Mudcombe this head-\\npurveyor of Goldborough this possible policeman of\\nBedfordshire is recounting his achievements, and the\\nnumber of his titles.\\nPasha. The end of his honours is more distant than\\nthe ends of the Earth, and the catalogue of his glorious\\ndeeds is brighter than the firmament of Heaven\\nDragoman (to the Traveller). The Pasha congratu-\\nlates your Excellency.\\nTraveller. About Goldborough The deuce he\\ndoes but I want to get at his views, in relation to\\nthe present state of the Ottoman Empire tell him\\nthe Houses of Parliament have met, and that there\\nhas been a Speech from the throne, pledging England\\nto preserve the integrity of the Sultan s dominions.\\nDragoman (to the Pasha). This branch of Mud-\\ncombe, this possible policeman of Bedfordshire, informs\\nyour Highness that in England the talking houses have\\nmet, and that the integrity of the Sultan s dominions has\\nbeen assured for ever and ever, by a speech from the\\nvelvet chair.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "OVER THE BORDER\\n9\\nPasha. Wonderful chair Wonderful houses\\nwhirr whirr all by wheels whiz whiz all by\\nsteam wonderful chair wonderful houses won-\\nderful people whirr whirr all by wheels whiz\\nwhiz all by steam\\nTraveller (to the Dragoman). What does the Pasha\\nmean by that whizzing he does not mean to say, does\\nhe, that our Government will ever abandon their pledges\\nto the Sultan\\nDragoman. No, your Excellency, but he says the\\nEnglish talk by wheels, and by steam.\\nTraveller. That s an exaggeration but say that\\nthe English really have carried machinery to great\\nperfection tell the Pasha (he ll be struck with that),\\nthat whenever we have any disturbances to put down,\\neven at two or three hundred miles from London, we\\ncan send troops by the thousand, to the scene of action,\\ng in a few hours.\\nDragoman (recovering his temper and freedom of\\nspeech). His Excellency, this Lord of Mudcombe,\\nobserves to your Highness, that whenever the Irish,\\nor the French, or the Indians rebel against the English,\\nwhole armies of soldiers, and brigades of artillery, are\\ndropped into a mighty chasm called Euston Square,\\nand in the biting of a cartridge they arise up again in\\nManchester, or Dublin, or Paris, or Delhi, and utterly\\nexterminate the enemies of England from the face of\\nthe earth.\\nPasha. I know it I know all the particulars have\\nbeen faithfully related to me, and my mind comprehends\\nlocomotives. The armies of the English ride upon the\\nvapours of boiling cauldrons, and their horses are\\nflaming coals whirr whirr all by wheels whiz\\nwhiz all by steam\\nTraveller (to his Dragoman). I wish to have the\\nopinion of an unprejudiced Ottoman gentleman, as to\\nthe prospects of our English commerce and manu-\\nfactures just ask the Pasha to give me his views on\\nthe subject.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "IO\\nEOTHEN\\nPasha (after having received the communication of\\nthe Dragoman). The ships of the English swarm like\\nflies their printed calicoes cover the whole earth,\\nand by the side of their swords the blades of Damas-\\ncus are blades of grass. All India is but an item in\\nthe Ledger-books of the Merchants, whose lumber-\\nrooms are filled with ancient thrones whirr whirr\\nall by wheels whiz whiz all by steam\\nDrago?nan. The Pasha compliments the cutlery of\\nEngland, and also the East India Company.\\nTraveller. The Pasha s right about the cutlery, (I\\ntried my scimitar with the common officers swords be-\\nlonging to our fellows at Malta, and they cut it like the\\nleaf of a Novel). Well, (to the Dragoman), tell the\\nPasha I am exceedingly gratified to find that he enter-\\ntains such a high opinion of our manufacturing energy,\\nbut I should like him to know, though, that we have\\ngot something in England besides that. These\\nforeigners are always fancying that we have nothing\\nbut ships, and railways, and East India Companies\\ndo just tell the Pasha, that our rural districts deserve\\nhis attention, and that even within the last two hun-\\ndred years there has been an evident improvement in\\nthe culture of the turnip, and if he does not take any\\ninterest about that, at all events, you can explain that\\nwe have our virtues in the country that the British\\nyeoman is still, thank God the British yeoman Oh\\nand by the by, whilst you are about it, you may as well\\nsay that we are a truth-telling people, and, like the\\nOsmanlees, are faithful in the performance of our\\npromises.\\nPasha (after hearing the Dragoman). It is true, it\\nis true through all Feringhistan the English are fore-\\nmost, and best for the Russians are drilled swine, and\\nthe Germans are sleeping babes, and the Italians are\\nthe servants of Songs, and the French are the sons of\\nNewspapers, and the Greeks they are weavers of lies,\\nbut the English, and the Osmanlees are brothers to-\\ngether in righteousness for the Osmanlees believe", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "OVER THE BORDER\\nii\\nin one only God, and cleave to the Koran, and destroy\\nidols, so do the English worship one God, and abomin-\\nate graven images, and tell the truth, and believe in\\na book, and though they drink the juice of the grape,\\nyet to say that they worship their prophet as God, or\\nto say that they are eaters of pork, these are lies,\\nlies born of Greeks, and nursed by Jews\\nDragoman. The Pasha compliments the English.\\nTraveller (rising). Well, Pve had enough of this.\\nTell the Pasha, I am greatly obliged to him for his\\nhospitality, and still more for his kindness in furnish-\\ning me with horses, and say that now I must be off.\\nPasha (after hearing the Dragoman, and standing\\nup on his Divan). 1 Proud are the sires, and blessed\\nare the dams of the horses that shall carry his Excel-\\nlency to the end of his prosperous journey. May the\\nsaddle beneath him glide down to the gates of the\\nhappy city, like a boat swimming on the third river of\\nParadise. May he sleep the sleep of a child, when\\nhis friends are around him, and the while that his\\nenemies are abroad, may his eyes flame red through\\nthe darkness more red than the eyes of ten tigers\\nfarewell\\nDragoman. The Pasha wishes your Excellency a\\npleasant journey.\\nSo ends the visit.\\n1 [That is, if he stands up at all Oriental etiquette would not\\nwarrant his rising, unless his visitor were supposed to be at least\\nhis equal in point of rank and station. Note in Third Edition.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II\\nJOURNEY FROM BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE\\nIN two or three hours our party was ready the\\nservants, the Tatars, the mounted Suridgees, and\\nthe baggage-horses altogether made up a strong caval-\\ncade. The accomplished Mysseri, of whom you have\\nheard me speak so often, and who served me so faith-\\nfully throughout my oriental journeys, acted as our\\ninterpreter, and was, in fact, the brain of our corps.\\nThe Tatar, you know, is a government courier pro-\\nperly employed in carrying despatches, but also sent\\nwith travellers to speed them on their way, and answer\\nwith his head for their safety. The man whose head\\nwas thus pledged for our precious lives was a glorious\\nlooking fellow, with the regular, and handsome cast of\\ncountenance, which is now characteristic of the Otto-\\nman race. 1 His features displayed a good deal of\\nserene pride, self-respect, fortitude, a kind of ingenuous\\nsensuality, and something of instinctive wisdom, with-\\nout any sharpness of intellect. He had been a Janis-\\nsary, (as I afterwards found) and kept up the odd strut\\nof his old corps, which used to affright the Christians\\nin former times that rolling gait is so comically\\npompous, that a close imitation of it, even in the\\nbroadest farce, would be looked upon as a very rough\\nover-acting of the character. It is occasioned in part\\nby the dress, and accoutrements. The heavy bundle\\n1 The continual marriages of these people, with the chosen\\nbeauties of Georgia and Circassia, have overpowered the original\\nugliness of their Tatar ancestors.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 13\\nof weapons carried upon the chest throws back the\\nbody so as to give it a wonderful portliness, whilst the\\nimmense masses of clothes that swathe bis limbs, force\\nthe wearer in walking, to swing himself heavily round\\nfrom left to right, and from right to left in truth, this\\ngreat edifice of woollen, and cotton, and silk, and\\nsilver, and brass, and steel, is not at all fitted for\\nmoving on foot it cannot even walk without ludi-\\ncrously deranging its architectural proportions, and as\\nto running, I once saw our Tatar make an attempt\\nat that laborious exercise, in order to pick up a\\npartridge which Methley had winged with a pistol-\\nshot, and really the attempt was one of the funniest\\nmisdirections of human energy that I ever beheld. It\\nused to be said, that a good man, struggling with\\nadversity, was a spectacle worthy of the gods a\\nTatar attempting to run would have been a sight\\nworthy of you. But put him in his stirrups, and then\\nis the Tatar himself again there you see him at his\\nease, reposing in the tranquillity of that true home,\\n(the home of his ancestors,) which the saddle seems\\nto afford him, and drawing from his pipe the calm\\npleasures of his own fireside, or else dashing sudden\\nover the earth, as though for a moment he were borne\\nby the steed of a Turkman chief, with the plains of\\ncentral Asia before him. It was not till his sub-\\nordinates had nearly completed their preparations for\\ntheir march that our Tatar, u commanding the forces,\\narrived he came sleek, and fresh from the bath, (for\\nso is the custom of the Ottomans when they start upon\\na journey), and was carefully accoutred at every\\npoint. From his thigh to his throat he was loaded\\nwith arms and other implements of a campaigning life.\\nThere is no scarcity of water along the whole road,\\nfrom Belgrade to Stamboul, but the habits of our\\nTatar were formed by his ancestors, and not by him-\\nself, so he took good care to see that his leather water-\\nflask was amply charged and properly strapped to the\\nsaddle, along with his blessed tchibouque. And now", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "14\\nEOTHEN\\nat last, he has cursed the Suridgees, in all proper\\nfigures of speech, and is ready for a ride of a thousand\\nmiles, but before he comforts his soul in the marble\\nbaths of Stamboul, he will be another and a smaller\\nman his sense of responsibility, his too strict abste-\\nmiousness, and his restless energy, disdainful of sleep,\\nwill have worn him down to a fraction of the sleek\\nMoostapha, that now leads out our party from the\\ngates of Belgrade.\\nThe Suridgees are the fellows employed to lead the\\nbaggage horses. They are most of them Gipsies.\\nPoor devils their lot is an unhappy one they are the\\nlast of the human race, and all the sins of their\\nsuperiors (including the horses) can safely be visited\\non them. But the wretched look often more pictur-\\nesque than their betters, and though all the world\\nlook down upon these poor Suridgees, their tawny\\nskins, and their grisly beards, will gain them honour-\\nable standing in the foreground of a landscape. We\\nhad a couple of these fellows with us, each leading a\\nbaggage horse, to the tail of which last, another\\nbaggage horse was attached. There was a world of\\ntrouble in persuading the stiff angular portmanteaus\\nof Europe to adapt themselves to their new condition,\\nand sit quietly on pack-saddles, but all was right at\\nlast, and it gladdened my eyes to see our little troop\\nfile off through the winding lanes of the city, and shew\\ndown brightly in the plain beneath; the one of our\\nparty that seemed to be most out of keeping with the\\nrest of the scene, was Methley s Yorkshire servant,\\nwho rode doggedly on in his pantry jacket, looking\\nout for gentlemen s seats.\\nMethley and I had English saddles, but I think we\\nshould have done just as well, (I should certainly have\\nseen more of the country) if we had adopted saddles\\nlike that of our Tatar, who towered so loftily over the\\nscraggy little beast that carried him. In taking thought\\nfor the East, whilst in England, I had made one capital\\nhit which you must not forget I had brought with me", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 15\\na pair of common spurs, which were a great comfort to\\nme throughout my travels by keeping up the cheerful-\\nness of the many unhappy nags which I had to bestride\\nthe angle of the oriental stirrup is a very poor substi-\\ntute for spurs.\\nThe Ottoman horseman, raised by his saddle to a\\ngreat height above the humble level of the back which\\nhe bestrides, and using an awfully sharp bit, is able to\\nlift the crest of his nag, and force him into a strangely\\nfast amble, which is the orthodox pace for the journey;\\nmy comrade and I thought it a bore to be followed by\\nour attendants for a thousand miles, and we generally,\\ntherefore, did duty as the rear-guard of our grand\\narmy we used to walk our horses till the party in\\nfront had got into the distance, and then retrieve the\\nlost ground by a gallop.\\nWe had ridden on for some two or three hours the\\nstir, and bustle of our commencing journey had ceased\\nthe liveliness of our little troop had worn off with the\\ndeclining day, and the night closed in as we entered\\nthe great Servian forest, through which our road was\\nto last for more than a hundred miles. Endless, and\\nendless now on either side, the tall oaks closed in their\\nranks, and stood gloomily lowering over us, as grim\\nas an army of giants with a thousand years pay in\\narrear. One strived with listening ear, to catch some\\ntidings of that Forest World within\u00e2\u0080\u0094 some stirring of\\nbeasts, some night bird s scream, but all was quite\\nhushed, except the voice of the cicalas that peopled\\nevery bough, and filled the depths of the forest through,\\nand through, with one same hum everlasting more\\nstilling than very silence.\\nAt first our way was in darkness, but after a while\\nthe moon got up, and touched the glittering arms, and\\ntawny faces of our men with light so pale, and mystic,\\nthat the watchful Tatar felt bound to look out for\\nDemons, and take proper means for keeping them off;\\nhe immediately determined that the duty of frightening\\naway our ghostly enemies, (like every other trouble-", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "16 EOTHEN\\nsome work,) should fall upon the poor Suridgees, who\\naccordingly lifted up their voices, and burst upon the\\ndreaded stillness of the forest with shrieks, and dismal\\nhowls. These precautions were kept up incessantly,\\nand were followed by the most complete success, for\\nnot one demon came near us.\\nLong before midnight, we reached the hamlet in\\nwhich we were to rest for the night it was made up\\nof about a dozen clay huts, standing upon a small tract\\nof ground which had been conquered from the forest.\\nThe peasants that lived there spoke a Slavonic dialect,\\nand Mysseri s knowledge of the Russian tongue, enabled\\nhim to talk with them freely. We soon took up our\\nquarters in a square room, with white walls, and an\\nearthen floor, quite bare of furniture and utterly void of\\nwomen. They told us, however, that these Servian\\nvillagers were very well off, but that they were careful\\nto conceal their wealth, as well as their wives.\\nThe burthens unstrapped from the packsaddles very\\nquickly furnished our den a couple of quilts spread\\nupon the floor, with a carpet bag at the head of each\\nbecame capital sofas portmanteaus, and hat boxes,\\nand writing cases, and books, and maps, and gleaming\\narms, were soon strewed around us in pleasant confusion.\\nMysseri s canteen too, began to yield up its treasures,\\nbut we relied upon finding some provisions in the\\nvillage. At first the natives declared that their hens\\nwere mere old maids, and all their cows unmarried, but\\nour Tatar swore such a grand, sonorous oath, and\\nfingered the hilt of his yataghan with such persuasive\\ntouch that the land soon flowed with milk, and moun-\\ntains of eggs arose.\\nAnd soon there was tea before us, with all its unspeak-\\nable fragrance, and as we reclined on the floor, we found\\nthat a portmanteau was just the right height for a table\\nthe duty of candlesticks was ably performed by a\\ncouple of intelligent natives the rest of them stood by\\nthe open door-way at the lower end of the room, and\\nwatched our banqueting with deep, and serious attention.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 17\\nThe first night of your first campaign, (though you\\nbe but a mere peaceful campaigner), is a glorious time\\nin your life. It is so sweet to find oneself free from the\\nstale civilization of Europe Oh my dear ally when\\nfirst you spread your carpet in the midst of these eastern\\nscenes, do think for a moment of those your fellow\\ncreatures, that dwell in squares, and streets, and even\\n(for such is the fate of many in actual country houses\\nthink of the people that are presenting their compli-\\nments, and requesting the honour, and much re-\\ngretting, of those that are pinioned at dinner tables,\\nor stuck up in ball-rooms, or cruelly planted in pews\\nay, think of these, and so remembering how many poor\\ndevils are living in a state of utter respectability, you\\nwill glory the more in your own delightful escape.\\nI am bound to confess, however, that with all its\\ncharms, a mud floor, (like a mercenary match) does\\ncertainly promote early rising. Long before daybreak\\nwe were up, and had breakfasted after this there was\\nnearly a whole tedious hour to endure, whilst the horses\\nwere laden by torch-light but this had an end, and at\\nlast we went on once more. Cloaked, and sombre, at\\nfirst we made our sullen way through the darkness,\\nwith scarcely one barter of words, but soon the genial\\nmorning burst over us, and stirred the blood so gladly\\nthrough our veins, that the very Suridgees, with all their\\ntroubles, could now look up for an instant, and almost\\nbelieve in the temporary goodness of God.\\nThe actual movement from one place to another, in\\nEuropeanized countries, is a process so temporary it\\noccupies, I mean, so small a proportion of the traveller s\\nentire time, that his mind remains unsettled, so long\\nas the wheels are going he is alive enough to the\\nexternal objects of interest, which the route may afford,\\nand to the crowding ideas which are often invited by\\nthe excitement of a changing scene, but he is still\\nconscious of being in a provisional state, and his mind\\nis constantly recurring to the expected end of his\\njourney; his ordinary ways of thought have been inter-\\nC", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "i8\\nEOTHEN\\nrupted, and before any new mental habits can be\\nformed he is quietly fixed in his hotel. It will be other-\\nwise with you when you journey in the East. Day\\nafter day, perhaps week after week, and month after\\nmonth, your foot is in the stirrup. To taste the cold\\nbreath of the earliest morn, and to lead, or follow your\\nbright cavalcade till sunset through forests, and moun-\\ntain passes, through valleys, and desolate plains, all\\nthis becomes your MODE OF LIFE, and you ride, eat,\\ndrink, and curse the mosquitoes, as systematically\\nas your friends in England eat, drink, and sleep. If\\nyou are wise, you will not look upon the long period of\\ntime thus occupied by your journeys as the mere gulfs\\nwhich divide you from the place to which you are\\ngoing, but rather as most rare and beautiful portions of\\nyour life, from which may come temper, and strength.\\nOnce feel this, and you will soon grow happy, and\\ncontented in your saddle home. As for me and my\\ncomrade, in this part of our journey we often forgot\\nStamboul, forgot all the Ottoman Empire, and only\\nremembered old times. We went back, loitering on\\nthe banks of Thames not grim old Thames, of after\\nlife that washes the Parliament Houses, and drowns\\ndespairing girls, but Thames the old Eton fellow\\nthat wrestled with us in our boyhood till he taught us\\nto be stronger than he. We bullied Keate, and scoffed\\nat Larrey Miller, and Okes we rode along loudly\\nlaughing, and talked to the grave Servian forest, as\\nthough it were the Brocas clump.\\nOur pace was commonly very slow, for the baggage-\\nhorses served us for a drag, and kept us to a rate of\\nlittle more than five miles in the hour, but now and\\nthen, and chiefly at night, a spirit of movement would\\nsuddenly animate the whole party the baggage-horses\\nwould be teazed into a gallop, and when once this was\\ndone, there would be such a banging of portmanteaus,\\nand such convulsions of carpet bags upon their panting\\nsides, and the Suridgees would follow them up with\\nsuch a hurricane of blows, and screams, and curses,", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 19\\nthat stopping or relaxing was scarcely possible then\\nthe rest of us would put our horses into a gallop, and\\nso all shouting cheerily, would hunt, and drive the\\nsumpter beasts like a flock of goats, up hill, and down\\ndale, right on to the end of their journey.\\nThe distances at which we got relays of horses varied\\ngreatly some were not more than fifteen or twenty\\nmiles, but twice, I think, we performed a whole day s\\njourney of more than sixty miles with the same beasts.\\nWhen, at last, we came out from the forest, our road\\nlay through scenes like those of an English park. The\\ngreen sward unfenced, and left to the free pasture of\\ncattle, was dotted with groups of stately trees, and here\\nand there darkened over with larger masses of wood,\\nthat seemed gathered together for bounding the do-\\nmain, and shutting out some infernal fellow-creature\\nin the shape of a new-made squire in one or two spots\\nthe hanging copses looked down upon a lawn below\\nwith such sheltering mien, that seeing the like in\\nEngland, you would have been tempted almost to ask\\nthe name of the spendthrift, or the madman who had\\ndared to pull down the old hall.\\nThere are few countries less infested by lions\\nthan the provinces in this part of your route you are\\nnot called upon to drop a tear over the tomb of\\nthe once brilliant any body, or to pay your tribute\\nof respect to anything dead, or alive there are no\\nServian, or Bulgarian Litterateurs with whom it would\\nbe positively disgraceful not to form an acquaintance\\nyou have no staring, no praising to get through the\\nonly public building of any interest which lies on the\\nroad is of modern date, but is said to be a good\\nspecimen of oriental architecture it is of a pyramidical\\nshape, and is made up of thirty thousand skulls which\\nwere contributed by the rebellious Servians in the early\\npart (I believe) of this century I am not at all sure of\\nmy date, but I fancy it was in the year 1 806 that the\\nfirst skull was laid. I am ashamed to say, that in\\nthe darkness of the early morning, we unknowingly", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "20\\nEOTHEN\\nwent by the neighbourhood of this triumph of art, and\\nso basely got off from admiring the simple grandeur\\nof the architect s conception, and the exquisite beauty\\nof the fretwork.\\nThere being no lions, we ought at least to have\\nmet with a few perils, but there were no women to\\nattack our peace (they were all wrapt up, or locked in)\\nand as for robbers, the only robbers we saw anything\\nof had been long since dead, and gone the poor\\nfellows had been impaled upon high poles, and so\\npropped up by the transverse spokes beneath them,\\nthat their skeletons, clothed with some white, wax-like\\nremains of flesh, still sat up lolling in the sunshine,\\nand listlessly stared without eyes.\\nOne day it seemed to me that our path was a little\\nmore rugged, and less level than usual, and I found\\nthat I was deserving for myself the title of Sabalkansky,\\nor Transcender of the Balcan. The truth is, that, as\\na military barrier, the Balcan is a fabulous mountain\\nsuch seems to be the view of Major Keppell, who looked\\non it towards the East with the eye of a soldier, and\\ncertainly in the Sophia pass, which I followed, there is\\nno narrow defile, and no ascent sufficiently difficult to\\nstop, or delay for long time, a train of siege artillery.\\nBefore we reached Adrianople, Methley had been\\nseized with we knew not what ailment, and when we\\nhad taken up our quarters in the city, he was cast to\\nthe very earth by sickness. Adrianople enjoyed an\\nEnglish Consul, and I felt sure that, in Eastern phrase,\\nhis house would cease to be his house, and would\\nbecome the house of my sick comrade I should have\\njudged rightly under ordinary circumstances, but the\\nlevelling plague was abroad, and the dread of it had\\ndominion over the consular mind. So now, (whether\\ndying or not, one could hardly tell) upon a quilt stretched\\nout along the floor, there lay the best hope of an ancient\\nline, without the material aids to comfort of even the\\nhumblest sort, and (sad to say) without the consolation\\nof a friend, or even a comrade worth having. I have a", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 21\\nnotion that tenderness, and pity are affections occa-\\nsioned in some measure by living within doors cer-\\ntainly, at the time I speak of, the open air life which I\\nhad been leading, or the wayfaring hardships of the\\njourney had so strangely blunted me, that I felt in-\\ntolerant of illness, and looked down upon my com-\\npanion as if the poor fellow in falling ill had betrayed\\na decided want of spirit I entertained, too, a most\\nabsurd idea an idea that his illness was partly affected.\\nYou see that I have made a confession this I hope\\nthat I may always hereafter look charitably upon the\\nhard, savage acts of peasants, and the cruelties of a\\nbrutal soldiery. God knows that I strived to melt\\nmyself into common charity, and to put on a gentleness\\nwhich I could not feel, but this attempt did not cheat\\nthe keenness of the sufferer he could not have felt the\\nless deserted, because that I was with him.\\nWe called to aid a solemn Armenian (I think he\\nwas) half soothsayer, half hakim, or doctor, who, all\\nthe while counting his beads, fixed his eyes steadily\\nupon the patient, and then suddenly dealt him a\\nviolent blow on the chest. Methley bravely dissembled\\nhis pain, for he fancied that the blow was meant to try\\nwhether or not the plague were on him.\\nHere was really a sad embarrassment no bed\\nnothing to offer the invalid in the shape of food, save\\na piece of thin, tough, flexible, drab-coloured cloth,\\nmade of flour and mill-stones in equal proportions,\\nand called by the name of bread .then the patient\\nof course, had no confidence in his medical man,\\nand on the whole, the best chance of saving my com-\\nrade seemed to be by taking him out of the reach of\\nhis doctor, and bearing him away to the neighbour-\\nhood of some more genial consul. But how was this\\nto be done Methley was much too ill to be kept in\\nthe saddle, and wheel-carriages as means of travelling,\\nwere unknown. There is, however, such a thing as an\\nAraba, a vehicle drawn by oxen, in which the wives\\nof a rich man are sometimes dragged four or five miles", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "22\\nEQTHEN\\nover the grass by way of recreation. The carriage is\\nrudely framed, but you recognize in the simple grandeur\\nof its design a likeness to things majestic in short, if\\nyour carpenter s son were to make a Lord Mayor s\\ncoach 33 for little Amy, he would build a carriage very\\nmuch in the style of a Turkish Araba. No one had\\never heard of horses being used for drawing a carriage\\nin this part of the world, but Necessity is the mother\\nof Innovation as well as of Invention. I was fully\\njustified, I think, in arguing that there were numerous\\ninstances of horses being used for that purpose in our\\nown country that the laws of nature are uniform in\\ntheir operation over all the world, (except Ireland)\\nthat that which was true in Piccadilly, must be true in\\nAdrianople that the matter could not fairly be treated\\nas an ecclesiastical question, for that the circumstance\\nof Methley s going on to Stamboul in an Araba drawn\\nby horses, when calmly, and dispassionately con-\\nsidered, would appear to be perfectly consistent with\\nthe maintenance of the Mahometan religion, as by\\nlaw established. Thus poor, dear, patient Reason\\nwould have fought her slow battle against Asiatic\\nprejudice, and I am convinced that she would have\\nestablished the possibility, (and perhaps, even the\\npropriety) of harnessing horses in a hundred and fifty\\nyears but in the meantime Mysseri, well seconded\\nby our Tatar, put a very quick end to the controversy,\\nby having the horses put to.\\nIt was a sore thing for me to see my poor comrade\\nbrought to this, for young though he was, he was a\\nveteran in travel when scarcely yet of age, he had\\ninvaded India from the frontiers of Russia, and that\\nso swiftly, that measuring by the time of his flight, the\\nbroad dominions of the King of Kings were shrivelled\\nup to a Dukedom, and now poor fellow, he was to be\\npoked up into an Araba, like a Georgian girl He\\nsuffered greatly, for there were no springs for the\\ncarriage, and no road for the wheels, and so the\\nconcern jolted on over the open country, with such", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 23\\ntwists, and jerks, and jumps, as might almost dislocate\\nthe supple tongue of Satan.\\nAll day the patient kept himself shut up within the\\nlattice-work of the Araba, and I could hardly know\\nhow he was faring until the end of the day s journey,\\nwhen I found that he was not worse, and was buoyed\\nup with the hope of some day reaching Constantinople.\\nI was always conning over my maps, and fancied\\nthat I knew pretty well my line, but after Adrianople I\\nhad made more southing than I knew for, and it was\\nwith unbelieving wonder, and delight, that I came\\nsuddenly upon the shore of the sea a little while, and\\nits gentle billows were flowing beneath the hoofs of my\\nbeast, but the hearing of the ripple was not enough\\ncommunion, and the seeing of the blue Propontis was\\nhot to know, and possess it I must needs plunge into\\nits depths, and quench my longing love in the palpable\\nwaves j and so when old Moostapha (defender against\\ndemons) looked round for his charge, he saw with\\nhorror and dismay, that he for whose life his own life\\nstood pledged, was possessed of some devil who had\\ndriven him down into the sea that the rider, and the\\nsteed had vanished from earth, and that out among the\\nwaves was the gasping crest of a post horse, and the\\npale head of the Englishman moving upon the face of\\nthe waters.\\nWe started very early indeed, on the last day of our\\njourney, and from the moment of being off, until we\\ngained the shelter of the imperial walls, we were\\nstruggling face to face with an icy storm that swept\\nright down from the steppes of Tartary, keen, fierce,\\nand steady as a northern conqueror. Methley s serv-\\nant, who was the greatest sufferer, kept his saddle\\nuntil we reached Stamboul, but was then found to be\\nquite benumbed in limbs, and his brain was so much\\naffected, that when he was lifted from his horse, he fell\\naway in a state of unconsciousness, the first stage of a\\ndangerous fever.\\nMethley, in his Araba, had been sheltered from the", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "24\\nEOTHEN\\nstorm, but he was sadly ill. I myself bore up capitally\\nfor a delicate person, but I was so well watered, and\\nthe blood of my veins had shrunk away so utterly from\\nthe chilling touch of the blast, that I must have looked\\nmore fit for a watery grave, than for the city of the\\nPrince, whom men call Brother of the Sun.\\nOur Tatar, worn down by care, and toil, and carry-\\ning seven heavens full of water, in his manifold jackets,\\nand shawls, was a mere weak, and vapid dilution of\\nthe sleek Moostapha, who scarce more than one fort-\\nnight before came out like a bridegroom from his\\nchamber, to take the command of our party.\\nMysseri seemed somewhat over-wearied, but he had\\nlost none of his strangely quiet energy he wore a grave\\nlook, however, for he now had learnt that the plague\\nwas prevailing at Constantinople, and he was fearing\\nthat our two sick men, and the miserable looks of our\\nwhole party, might make us unwelcome at Pera.\\nOur poor, dear portmanteaus, whose sharp angular\\nforms had rebelled so rudely against the pack-saddles\\nwere now reduced to soft, pulpy substances, and the\\nthings which were in them could plainly be of no\\nimmediate use to anybody but a merman, or a river-\\ngod; the carpet-bags seemed to contain nothing but\\nmere solutions of coats and boots, escaping drop by\\ndrop.\\nWe crossed the Golden Horn in a caique as soon as\\nwe had landed, some woe-begone looking fellows were\\ngot together, and laden with our baggage. Then, on\\nwe went, dripping, and sloshing, and looking very like\\nmen that had been turned back by the Royal Humane\\nSociety, as being incurably drowned. Supporting our\\nsick, we climbed up shelving steps, and threaded many\\nwindings, and at last came up into the main street of\\nPera, humbly hoping that we might not be judged\\nguilty of plague, and so be cast back with horror from\\nthe doors of the shuddering Christians.\\nSuch was the condition of our party, which fifteen\\ndays before had filed away so gaily from the gates of", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "BELGRADE TO CONSTANTINOPLE 1 25\\nBelgrade. A couple of fevers, and a north-easterly\\nstorm had thoroughly spoiled our looks.\\nThe interest of Mysseri with the house of Giuseppini\\nwas too powerful to be denied, and at once, though\\nnot without fear and trembling, we were admitted as\\nguests.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER III\\nCONSTANTINOPLE\\nEVEN if we don t take a part in the chaunt about\\nMosques, and Minarets, we can still yield praises\\nto Stamboul. We can chaunt about the harbour we\\ncan say, and sing, that nowhere else does the sea come\\nso home to a city there are no pebbly shores no sand\\nbars no slimy river-beds no black canals no locks,\\nnor docks to divide the very heart of the place from\\nthe deep waters if, being in the noisiest mart of\\nStamboul, you would stroll to the quiet side of the way\\namidst those Cypresses opposite, you will cross the\\nfathomless Bosphorus if you would go from your\\nhotel to the Bazaars, you must go by the bright, blue\\npathway of the Golden Horn, that can carry a thousand\\nsail of the line. You are accustomed to the Gondolas\\nthat glide among the palaces of St. Mark, but here at\\nStamboul it is a hundred-and-twenty-gun-ship that\\nmeets you in the street. Venice strains out from the\\nstedfast land, and in old times would send forth the\\nChief of the State to woo, and wed the reluctant sea\\nbut the stormy bride of the Doge is the bowing slave\\nof the Sultan she comes to his feet with the treasures\\nof the world she bears him from palace to palace by\\nsome unfailing witchcraft, she entices the breezes to\\nfollow her, 1 and fan the pale cheek of her lord she lifts\\nhis armed navies to the very gates of his garden she\\n1 There is almost always a breeze either from the Marmora, or\\nfrom the Black Sea, that passes along through the Bosphorus.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "CONSTANTINOPLE\\n27\\nwatches the walls of his Serail she stifles the intrigues\\nof his Ministers she quiets the scandals of his Court\\nshe extinguishes his rivals, and hushes his naughty\\nwives all one by one. So vast are the wonders of the\\nDeep\\nAll the while that I staid at Constantinople, the\\nPlague was prevailing, but not with any degree of viol-\\nence its presence, however, lent a mysterious, and\\nexciting, though not very pleasant interest to my first\\nknowledge of a great Oriental city it gave tone, and\\ncolour to all I saw, and all I felt a tone, and a colour\\nsombre enough, but true, and well befitting the dreary\\nmonuments of past power, and splendour. With all\\nthat is most truly oriental in its character, the Plague\\nis associated; it dwells with the faithful in the holiest\\nquarters of their city: the coats, and the hats of Pera,\\nare held to be nearly as innocent of infection, as they\\nare ugly in shape, and fashion but the rich furs, and\\nthe costly shawls, the broidered slippers, and the gold-\\nladen saddle-cloths the fragrance of burning aloes,\\nand the rich aroma of patchouli these are the signs\\nwhich mark the familiar home of Plague. You go out\\nfrom your living London the centre of the greatest,\\nand strongest amongst all earthly dominions you go\\nout thence, and travel on to the capital of an Eastern\\nPrince you find but a waning power, and a faded\\nsplendour, that inclines you to laugh, and mock, but\\nlet the infernal Angel of Plague be at hand, and he,\\nmore mighty than armies more terrible than Suley-\\nman in his glory, can restore such pomp, and majesty\\nto the weakness of the Imperial walls, that if, when\\nHE is there^ you must still go prying amongst the\\nshades of this dead Empire, at least you will tread the\\npath with seemly reverence, and awe.\\nIt is the firm faith of almost all the Europeans living\\nin the East, that Plague is conveyed by the touch of\\ninfected substances, and that the deadly atoms especi-\\nally lurk in all kinds of clothes, and furs it is held\\nsafer, to breathe the same air with a man sick of the", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "28\\nEOTHEN\\nPlague, and even to come in contact with his skin, than\\nto be touched by the smallest particle of woollen, or of\\nthread which may have been within the reach of possible\\ninfection. If this notion be correct, the spread of the\\nmalady must be materially aided by the observance of\\na custom which prevails amongst the people of Stam-\\nboul when an Osmanlee dies, it is usual to cut up one\\nof his dresses, and to send a small piece of it to each\\nof his friends, as a memorial of the departed. A fatal\\npresent is this, according to the opinion of the Franks,\\nfor it too often forces the living not merely to remem-\\nber the dead man, but to follow, and bear him com-\\npany.\\nThe Europeans during the prevalence of the Plague,\\nif they are forced to venture into the streets, will care-\\nfully avoid the touch of every human being whom they\\npass their conduct in this respect shews them\\nstrongly in contrast with the true believers the\\nMoslem stalks on serenely, as though he were under\\nthe eye of his God, and were equal to either fate the\\nFranks go crouching, and slinking from death, and\\nsome (those chiefly of French extraction) will fondly\\nstrive to fence out Destiny with shining capes of\\noilskin\\nFor some time you may manage by great care to\\nthread your way through the streets of Stamboul, with-\\nout incurring contact, for the Turks, though scornful\\nof the terrors felt by the Franks, are generally very\\ncourteous in yielding to that which they hold to be a\\nuseless, and impious precaution, and will let you pass\\nsafe, if they can. It is impossible, however, that your\\nimmunity can last for any length of time, if you move\\nabout much through the narrow streets, and lanes of a\\ncrowded city.\\nAs for me, I soon got compromised. After one\\nday of rest, the prayers of my hostess began to lose\\ntheir power of keeping me from the pestilent side of\\nthe Golden Horn. Faithfully promising to shun the\\ntouch of all imaginable substances, however enticing,", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "CONSTANTINOPLE\\n29\\nI set off very cautiously, and held my way uncom-\\npromised, till I reached the water s edge but during\\nthe moment that I was waiting for my caique, some\\nrueful-looking fellows came rapidly shambling down\\nthe steps with a plague-stricken corpse, which they\\nwere going to bury amongst the faithful on the other\\nside of the water. I contrived to be so much in the\\nway of this brisk funeral, that I was not only touched\\nby the men bearing the body, but also, I believe, by\\nthe foot of the dead man, which was lolling out of the\\nbier. This accident gave me such a strong interest in\\ndenying the soundness of the contagion theory, that I\\ndid in fact deny, and repudiate it altogether and\\nfrom that time, acting upon my own convenient view\\nof the matter, I went wherever I chose, without taking\\nany serious pains to avoid a touch. I have now some\\nreason to think that the Europeans may be right, and\\nthat the Plague may be really conveyed by contagion\\nbut whilst I remained in the East, I happily entertained\\nideas more approaching to those of the fatalist and\\nso, when I afterwards encountered the Plague in full\\nforce, I was able to live amongst the dying with much\\nless anxiety of mind, than I should have suffered, if I\\nhad believed that every touch which I met with, was a\\npossible death-stroke.\\nAnd perhaps as you make your difficult way, through\\na steep, and narrow alley, which winds between blank\\nwalls, and is little frequented by passers, you meet one\\nof those coffin-shaped bundles of white linen which\\nimplies an Ottoman lady. Painfully struggling against\\nthe obstacles to progression which are interposed by\\nthe many folds of her clumsy drapery, by her big mud\\nboots, and especially by her two pairs of slippers, she\\nwaddles along full awkwardly enough, but yet there is\\nsomething of womanly consciousness in the very labour,\\nand effort with which she tugs, and lifts the burthen of\\nher charms she is close followed by her women slaves.\\nOf her very self you see nothing, except the dark,\\nluminous eyes that stare against your face, and the tips", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "30\\nEOTHEN\\nof the painted fingers depending like rose-buds from\\nout the blank bastions of the fortress. She turns, and\\nturns again, and carefully glances around her on all\\nsides, to see that she is safe from the eyes of Mussul-\\nmans, and then suddenly withdrawing the yashmak, 1\\nshe shines upon your heart, and soul with all the pomp,\\nand might of her beauty. And this which so dizzies\\nyour brain, is not the light, changeful grace, which\\nleaves you to doubt whether you have fallen in love\\nwith a body, or only a soul it is the beauty that dwells\\nsecure in the perfectness of hard, downright outlines,\\nand in the glow of generous colour. There is fire,\\nthough too high courage, and fire enough in the un-\\ntamed mind, or spirit, or whatever it is, which drives\\nthe breath of pride through those scarcely parted lips.\\nYou smile at pretty women you turn pale before the\\nbeauty that is great enough to have dominion over you.\\nShe sees, and exults in your giddiness she sees and\\nsmiles then presently, with a sudden movement, she\\nlays her blushing fingers upon your arm, and cries out,\\nYumourdjak (Plague meaning, there is a\\npresent of the Plague for you This is her notion of\\na witticism it is a very old piece of fun, no doubt\\nquite an oriental Joe Miller but the Turks are fondly\\nattached, not only to the institutions, but also to the\\njokes of their ancestors so, the lady s silvery laugh\\nrings joyously in your ears, and the mirth of her women\\nis boisterous, and fresh, as though the bright idea of\\ngiving the Plague to a Christian had newly lit upon the\\nearth.\\nMethley began to rally very soon after we had\\nreached Constantinople, but there seemed at first to be\\nno chance of his regaining strength enough for travel-\\nling during the winter and I determined to stay with\\nmy comrade, until he had quite recovered so I got a\\n1 The Yashmak, you know, is not a mere, semi-transparent\\nveil, but rather a good substantial petticoat applied to the face\\nit thoroughly conceals all the features, except the eyes the way\\nof withdrawing it is by pulling it down.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "CONSTANTINOPLE\\n3i\\nhorse, and a pipe of tranquillity, 1 and took a Turkish\\nphrase-master. I troubled myself a great deal with the\\nTurkish tongue, and gained at last some knowledge of\\nits structure it is enriched, perhaps overladen, with\\nPersian and Arabic words, which have been imported\\ninto the language, chiefly for the purpose of represent-\\ning sentiments, and religious dogmas, and terms of art\\nand luxury, which were all unknown to the Tatar an-\\ncestors of the present Osmanlees but the body, and\\nspirit of the old tongue are yet alive, and the smooth\\nwords of the shop-keeper at Constantinople can still\\ncarry understanding to the ears of the untamed millions\\nwho rove over the plains of Northern Asia. The\\nstructure of the language, especially in its more lengthy\\nsentences, is very like to the Latin the subject matters\\nare slowly, and patiently enumerated, without disclosing\\nthe purpose of the speaker until he reaches the end of\\nhis sentence, and then at last there comes the clench-\\ning word, which gives a meaning, and connexion to all\\nthat has gone before. If you listen at all to speaking\\nof this kind, your attention, rather than be suffered to\\nflag, must grow more and more lively, as the phrase\\nmarches on.\\nThe Osmanlees speak well. In countries civilized\\naccording to the European plan, the work of trying to\\npersuade tribunals is almost all performed by a set of\\nmen, the great body of whom very seldom do any thing\\nelse but in Turkey, this division of labour has never\\ntaken place, and every man is his own advocate. The\\nimportance of the rhetorical art is immense, for a bad\\nspeech may endanger the property of the speaker, as\\nwell as the soles of his feet, and the free enjoyment of\\nhis throat. So it results that most of the Turks whom\\none sees, have a lawyer-like habit of speaking con-\\nnectedly, and at length. The treaties continually going\\n1 [The pipe of tranquillity is a tchibouque too long to be\\nconveniently carried on a journey the possession of it therefore\\nimplies that its owner is stationary, or at all events that he is en-\\njoying a long repose from travel. Note in Fourth Edition.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "32\\nEOTHEN\\non in the bazaar for the buying and selling of the merest\\ntrifles, are carried on by speechifying, rather than by\\nmere colloquies, and the eternal uncertainty as to the\\nmarket value of things in constant sale, gives room for\\nendless discussion. The seller is for ever demanding\\na price immensely beyond that for which he sells at last,\\nand so occasions unspeakable disgust to many English-\\nmen, who cannot see why an honest dealer should ask\\nmore for his goods than he will really take the truth\\nis, however, that an ordinary tradesman of Constantin-\\nople has no other way of finding out the fair market\\nvalue of his property. The difficulty under which he\\nlabours is easily shewn by comparing the mechanism\\nof the commercial system in Turkey, with that of our\\nown country. In England, or in any other great mer-\\ncantile country, the bulk of the things which are bought\\nand sold, goes through the hands of a wholesale dealer,\\nand it is he who higgles and bargains with an entire\\nnation of purchasers, by entering into treaty with retail\\nsellers. The labour of making a few large contracts is\\nsufficient to give a clue for finding the fair market value\\nof the things sold throughout the country but in Turkey,\\nfrom the primitive habits of the people, and partly from\\nthe absence of great capital, and great credit, the im-\\nporting merchant, the warehouseman, the wholesale\\ndealer, the retail dealer, and the shopman, are all one\\nperson. Old Moostapha, or Abdallah, or Hadgi Mo-\\nhamed waddles up from the water s edge with a small\\npacket of merchandise, which he has bought out of a\\nGreek brigantine, and when at last he has reached his\\nnook in the bazaar, he puts his goods before the counter,\\nand himself upon it then laying fire to his tchibouque\\nhe sits in permanence, and patiently waits to obtain\\nthe best price that can be got in an open market.\\nThis is his fair right as a seller, but he has no means\\nof finding out what that best price is, except by actual\\nexperiment. He cannot know the intensity of the de-\\nmand, or the abundance of the supply, otherwise than\\nby the offers which may be made for his little bundle", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "CONSTANTINOPLE\\n33\\nof goods so he begins by asking a perfectly hopeless\\nprice, and thence descends the ladder until he meets\\na purchaser, for ever\\nstriving to attain\\nBy shadowing out the unattainable.\\nThis is the struggle which creates the continual\\noccasion for debate. The vendor perceiving that the\\nunfolded merchandise has caught the eye of a possible\\npurchaser, commences his opening speech. He covers\\nhis bristling broadcloths, and his meagre silks, with the\\ngolden broidery of oriental praises, and as he talks,\\nalong with the slow, and graceful waving of his arms,\\nhe lifts his undulating periods, upholds, and poises them\\nwell, till they have gathered their weight, and their\\nstrength, and then hurls them bodily forward, with\\ngrave, momentous swing. The possible purchaser\\nlistens to the whole speech with deep, and serious atten-\\ntion but when it is over, his turn arrives he elabor-\\nately endeavours to shew why he ought not to buy the\\nthings at a price twenty times more than their value\\nbye-standers attracted to the debate, take a part in it\\nas independent members the vendor is heard in reply,\\nand coming down with his price, furnishes the materials\\nfor a new debate. Sometimes, however, the dealer, if\\nhe is a very pious Mussulman, and sufficiently rich to\\nhold back his ware, will take a more dignified part,\\nmaintaining a kind of judicial gravity, and receiving\\nthe applicants who come to his stall, as if they were\\nrather suitors, than customers. He will quietly hear\\nto the end, some long speech which concludes with an\\noffer, and will answer it all with the one monosyllable\\nYok, which means distinctly No.\\nI caught one glimpse of the old Heathen World.\\nMy habits of studying military subjects had been\\nhardening my heart against Poetry. For ever staring\\nat the flames of battle, I had blinded myself to the lesser,\\nand finer lights that are shed from the imaginations of\\nmen. In my reading at this time, I delighted to follow\\nD", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "34\\nEOTHEN\\nfrom out of Arabian sands, the feet of the armed believers,\\nand to stand in the broad, manifest storm-track of\\nTartar devastation and thus, though surrounded at\\nConstantinople, by scenes of much interest to the\\nclassical scholar, I had cast aside their associations\\nlike an old Greek grammar, and turned my face to the\\nshining Orient, forgetful of old Greece, and all the\\npure wealth she has left to this matter-of-fact-ridden\\nworld. But it happened to me one day to mount the\\nhigh grounds overhanging the streets of Pera I sated\\nmy eyes with the pomps of the city, and its crowded\\nwaters, and then I looked over where Scutari lay half\\nveiled in her mournful cypresses I looked yet farther,\\nand higher, and saw in the heavens a silvery cloud\\nthat stood fast, and still against the breeze it was pure,\\nand dazzling white as might be the veil of Cytherea,\\nyet touched with such fire, as though from beneath, the\\nloving eyes of an immortal were shining through and\\nthrough. I knew the bearing, but had enormously\\nmisjudged its distance, and underrated its height, and\\nso it was as a sign, and a testimony almost as a call\\nfrom the neglected Gods, that now I saw, and acknow-\\nledged the snowy crown of the Mysian Olympus", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IV\\nTHE TROAD\\nMETHLEY recovered almost suddenly, and we\\ndetermined to go through the Troad together.\\nMy comrade was a capital Grecian it is true that\\nhis singular mind so ordered, and disposed the classic\\nlore, which he had gained, as to impress it with some-\\nthing of an original, and barbarous character\u00e2\u0080\u0094 with an\\nalmost Gothic quaintness, more properly belonging to\\na rich native ballad, than to the poetry of Hellas there\\nwas a certain impropriety in his knowing so much\\nGreek-^an unfitness in the idea of marble fauns, and\\nsatyrs, and even Olympian Gods, lugged in under the\\noaken roof, and the painted light of an odd, old Norman\\nhall. But Methley abounding in Homer, really loved\\nhim (as I believe,) in all truth, without whim, or fancy\\nmoreover, he had a good deal of the practical sagacity\\nor sharpness, or whatever you may call it\\nof a Yorkshireman hippodamoio,\\nand this enabled him to apply his knowledge with\\nmuch more tact than is usually shewn by people so\\nlearned as he.\\nI too, loved Homer, but not with a scholar s love.\\nThe most humble, and pious amongst women was yet\\nso proud a mother that she could teach her firstborn\\nson, no Watts 7 hymns\u00e2\u0080\u0094no collects for the day she\\ncould teach him in earliest childhood, no less than this\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094to find a home in his saddle, and to love old Homer,", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "36\\nEOTHEN\\nand all that old Homer sung. True it is, that the\\nGreek was ingeniously rendered into English the\\nEnglish of Pope even, but it is not such a mesh as\\nthat, that can screen an earnest child from the fire of\\nHomer s battles.\\nI pored over the Odyssey as over a story-book,\\nhoping, and fearing for the hero whom yet I partly\\nscorned. But the Iliad\u00e2\u0080\u0094 line by line, I clasped it to\\nmy brain with reverence as well as with love. As an\\nold woman deeply trustful sits reading her Bible\\nbecause of the world to come, so, as though it would\\nfit me for the coming strife of this temporal world, I\\nread, and read the Iliad. Even outwardly it was not\\nlike other books it was throned in towering folios.\\nThere was a preface or dissertation printed in type\\nstill more majestic than the rest of the book this I\\nread, but not till my enthusiasm for the Iliad had\\nalready run high. The writer compiling the opinions\\nof many men, and chiefly of the ancients, set forth, I\\nknow not how quaintly, that the Iliad was all in all to\\nthe human race that it was history poetry revela-\\ntion that the works of men s hands were folly and\\nvanity, and would pass away like the dreams of a\\nchild, but that the kingdom of Homer would endure\\nfor ever and ever.\\nI assented with all my soul. I read, and still read\\nI came to know Homer. A learned commentator\\nknows something of the Greeks, in the same sense as\\nan oil and colour-man maybe said to know something\\nof painting, but take an untamed child, and leave him\\nalone for twelve months with any translation of Homer,\\nand he will be nearer by twenty centuries to the spirit\\nof old Greece he does not stop in the ninth year of\\nthe siege, to admire this or that group of words he\\nhas no books in his tent, but he shares in vital counsels\\nwith the King of men, and knows the inmost souls\\nof the impending Gods how profanely he exults over\\nthe powers divine, when they are taught to dread the\\nprowess of mortals and most of all how he rejoices", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "THE TROAD\\n37\\nwhen the God of War flies howling from the spear of\\nDiomed, and mounts into Heaven for safety Then\\nthe beautiful episode of the 6th Book the way to feel\\nthis is not to go casting about, and learning from\\npastors, and masters, how best to admire it the\\nimpatient child is not grubbing for beauties, but\\npushing the siege the women vex him with their\\ndelays, and their talking the mention of the nurse is\\npersonal, and little sympathy has he for the child that\\nis young enough to be frightened at the nodding plume\\nof a helmet, but all the while that he thus chafes at\\nthe pausing of the action, the strong vertical light of\\nHomer s Poetry is blazing so full upon the people, and\\nthings of the Iliad, that soon to the eyes of the child,\\nthey grow familiar as his mother s shawl yet of this\\ngreat gain he is unconscious, and on he goes, venge-\\nfully thirsting for the best blood of Troy, and never\\nremitting his fierceness, till almost suddenly it is\\nchanged for sorrow the new, and generous sorrow\\nthat he learns to feel, when the noblest of all his foes\\nlies sadly dying at the Scsean gate.\\nHeroic days were these, but the dark ages of school-\\nboy life came closing over them. I suppose it J s all\\nright in the end, yet, by Jove, at first sight it does\\nseem a sad intellectual fall from your mother s dressing-\\nroom to a buzzing school. You feel so keenly the\\ndelights of early knowledge you form strange mystic\\nfriendships with the mere names of mountains, and\\nseas, and continents, and mighty rivers you learn the\\nways of the planets, and transcend their narrow limits,\\nand ask for the end of space you vex the electric\\ncylinder till it yields you, for your toy to play with, that\\nsubtle fire in which our earth was forged you know of\\nthe nations that have towered high in the world, and\\nthe lives of the men who have saved whole Empires\\nfrom oblivion. What more will you ever learn Yet\\nthe dismal change is ordained, and then, thin, meagre\\nLatin (the same for every body,) with small shreds, and\\npatches of Greek, is thrown like a pauper s pall over", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "38\\nEOTHEN\\nall your early lore instead of sweet knowledge, vile,\\nmonkish, doggrell grammars, and graduses, Dic-\\ntionaries, and Lexicons, and horrible odds and ends of\\ndead languages are given you for your portion, and\\ndown you fall, from Roman story to a three inch scrap\\nof Scriptores Romani, from Greek poetry, down,\\ndown to the cold rations of Poetae Graeci, cut up by\\ncommentators, and served out by schoolmasters\\n4, It was not the recollection of school, nor college\\nlearning, but the rapturous, and earnest reading of my\\nchildhood which made me bend forward so longingly\\nto the plains of Troy.\\nAway from our people and our horses, Methley and\\nI went loitering along, by the willowy banks of a\\nstream that crept in quietness through the low, even\\nplain. There was no stir of weather over-head no\\nsound of rural labour no sign of life in the land, but\\nall the earth, was dead, and still, as though it had lain\\nfor thrice a thousand years under the leaden gloom of\\none unbroken sabbath.\\nSoftly, and sadly the poor, dumb, patient stream\\nwent winding, and winding along, through its shifting\\npathway in some places its waters were parted, and\\nthen again, lower down, they would meet once more.\\nI could see that the stream from year to year was\\nfinding itself new channels, and flowed no longer in its\\nancient track, but I knew that the springs which fed\\nit were high on Ida the springs of Simois and\\nScamander\\nIt was coldly, and thanklessly, and with vacant un-\\nsatisfied eyes that I watched the slow coming, and the\\ngliding away of the waters I tell myself now, as a\\nprofane fact, that I did indeed stand by that river,\\n(Methley gathered some seeds from the bushes that\\ngrew there,) but, since that I am away from his banks,\\ndivine Scamander has recovered the proper mystery\\nbelonging to him, as an unseen deity a kind of\\nindistinctness, like that which belongs to far antiquity,\\nhas spread itself over my memory, of the winding", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "THE TROAD\\n39\\nstream that I saw with these very eyes. One s mind\\nregains in absence that dominion over earthly things\\nwhich has been shaken by their rude contact you\\nforce yourself hardily into the material presence of a\\nmountain, or a river, whose name belongs to poetry,\\nand ancient religion, rather than to the external world\\nyour feelings wound up and kept ready for some sort\\nof half-expected rapture are chilled, and borne down\\nfor the time under all this load of real earth and water,\\nbut, let these once pass out of sight, and then again the\\nold fanciful notions are restored, and the mere realities\\nwhich you have just been looking at are thrown back\\nso far into distance, that the very event of your intrusion\\nupon such scenes, begins to look dim, and uncertain as\\nthough it belonged to mythology.\\nIt is not over the plain before Troy that the river\\nnow flows its waters have edged away far towards the\\nnorth, since the day that divine Scamander, (whom\\nthe Gods call Xanthus) went down to do battle for I lion,\\nwith Mars, and Phoebus, and Latona, and Diana\\nglorying in her arrows, and Venus the lover of smiles.\\nAnd now, when I was vexed at the migration of\\nScamander, and the total loss, or absorption of poor\\ndear Simois, how happily Methley reminded me that\\nHomer himself had warned us of some such changes\\nThe Greeks in beginning their wall had neglected the\\nhecatombs due to the Gods, and so, after the fall of\\nTroy, Apollo turned the paths of the rivers that flow\\nfrom Ida, and sent them flooding over the wall till all\\nthe beach was smooth, and free from the unhallowed\\nworks of the Greeks. It is true I see now, on looking\\nto the passage, that Neptune, when the work of\\ndestruction was done, turned back the rivers to their\\nancient ways\\niroretfjiovj; \u00c2\u00a3Yrps4 nzgQat\\nKap \u00c2\u00a3oov hjreg 7T\u00c2\u00a3o r0\u00c2\u00a3v ibv jtctXXt^oov vfifog, xii. 32.]\\nbut their old channels passing through that light\\npervious soil would have been lost in the nine days", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "40\\nEOTHEN\\nflood, and perhaps the God, when he willed to bring\\nback the rivers to their ancient beds, may have done\\nhis work but ill it is easier, they say, to destroy than\\nit is to restore.\\nWe took to our horses again, and went southward\\ntowards the very plain, between Troy and the tents of\\nthe Greeks, but we rode by a line at some distance\\nfrom the shore. Whether it was that the lay of the\\nground hindered my view, towards the sea, or that I\\nwas all intent upon Ida, or whether my mind was in\\nvacancy, or whether, as is most like, I had strayed\\nfrom the Dardan plains, all back to gentle England,\\nthere is now no knowing, nor caring, but it was not\\nquite suddenly indeed, but rather as it were, in the\\nswelling, and falling of a single wave, that the reality\\nof that very sea-view, which had bounded the sight of\\nthe Greeks, now visibly acceded to me, and rolled full\\nin upon my brain. Conceive how deeply that eternal\\ncoast-line that fixed horizon those island rocks\\nmust have graven their images upon the minds of the\\nGrecian warriors by the time that they had reached\\nthe ninth year of the siege conceive the strength, and\\nthe fanciful beauty, of the speeches with which a whole\\narmy of imagining men must have told their weariness,\\nand how the sauntering chiefs must have whelmed\\nthat daily, daily scene with their deep Ionian curses\\nAnd now it was that my eyes were greeted with a\\ndelightful surprise. Whilst we were at Constantinople,\\nMethley and I had pored over the map together we\\nagreed that whatever may have been the exact site\\nof Troy, the Grecian camp must have been nearly\\nopposite to the space betwixt the islands of Imbros\\nand Tenedos\\nMicrcnyvq TevbSoio na,i J^pov iranrcLhovro-nq xiii. 33.]\\nbut Methley reminded me of a passage in the Iliad in\\nwhich Jove is represented as looking at the scene of\\naction before Ilion from above the island of Samothrace.\\nNow, Samothrace, according to the map, appeared to", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "THE TROAD\\n4i\\nbe not only out of all seeing distance from the Troad,\\nbut to be entirely shut out from it by the intervening\\nImbros, which is a larger island, stretching its length\\nright athwart the line of sight from Samothrace to Troy.\\nPiously allowing that the eagle eye of Jove might have\\nseen the strife even from his own Olympus, I still felt\\nthat if a station were to be chosen from which to see\\nthe fight, old Homer, so material in his ways of thought,\\nso averse from all haziness, and overreaching, would\\nhave meant to give the Thunderer a station within the\\nreach of men s eyes from the plains of Troy. I think\\nthat this testing of the poet s words by map and\\ncompass, may have shaken a little of my faith in the\\ncompleteness of his knowledge. Well, now I had come\\nthere to the south was Tenedos, and here at my side\\nwas Imbros, all right, and according to the map, but\\naloft over Imbros aloft in a far away Heaven was\\nSamothrace, the watch-tower of Jove 1\\nSo Homer had appointed it, and so it was the map\\nwas correct enough, but could not, like Homer, convey\\nthe whole truth. Thus vain, and false are the mere\\nhuman surmises, and doubts which clash with Homeric\\nwrit\\nNobody, whose mind had not been reduced to the\\nmost deplorably logical condition, could look upon this\\nbeautiful congruity betwixt the Iliad and the material\\nworld, and yet bear to suppose that the poet may have\\nlearned the features of the coast from mere hearsay\\nnow then, I believed now I knew that Homer had\\npassed along here^ that this vision of Samothrace\\nover-towering the nearer island was common to him,\\nand to me.\\nAfter a journey of some few days by the route of\\nAdramiti and Pergamo, we reached Smyrna. The\\nletters which Methley here received obliged him to\\nreturn to England.\\n1 [In this passage the author has by an oversight (corrected in\\nlater editions) substituted Jove for Neptune. See xiii. 10:\\nov\u00c2\u00a5 a\\\\aog tntoirinv zT%z Kpeicov Ivoo-lyQiov h.t.A.]", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V\\nINFIDEL SMYRNA\\nSMYRNA, or Giaour Izmir, as the Mussulmans call\\nit, is the main point of commercial contact be-\\ntwixt Europe, and Asia you are there surrounded\\nby the people, and the confused customs of many, and\\nvarious nations you see the fussy European adopting\\nthe East, and calming his restlessness with the long\\nTurkish pipe of tranquillity you see Jews offering\\nservices, and receiving blows 1 on one side you have\\na fellow whose dress, and beard would give you a good\\nidea of the true oriental, if it were not for the gobe-\\nmouche expression of countenance with which he is\\nswallowing an article in the National, and there, just\\nby, is a genuine Osmanlee, smoking away with all the\\nmajesty of a Sultan, but before you have time to admire\\nsufficiently his tranquil dignity, and his soft Asiatic\\n1 The Jews of Smyrna are poor, and having little merchandise\\nof their own to dispose of, they are sadly importunate in offering\\ntheir services as intermediaries their troublesome conduct has\\nled to the custom of beating them in the open streets. It is\\nusual for Europeans to carry long sticks with them, for the express\\npurpose of keeping off the chosen people. I always felt ashamed\\nto strike the poor fellows myself, but I confess to the amusement\\nwith which I witnessed the observance of this custom by other\\npeople. The Jew seldom got hurt much, for he was always ex-\\npecting the blow, and was ready to recede from it the moment it\\ncame one could not help being rather gratified at seeing him\\nbound away so nimbly with his long robes floating out in the\\nair, and then again wheel round, and return with fresh impor-\\ntunities.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "INFIDEL SMYRNA\\n43\\nrepose, the poor old fellow is ruthlessly run down by\\nan English midshipman, who has set sail on a Smyrna\\nhack. Such are the incongruities of the infidel city,\\nat ordinary times but when I was there, our friend\\nCarrigaholt had imported himself, and his oddities as\\nan accession to the other, and inferior wonders of\\nSmyrna.\\nI was sitting alone in my room one day at Constan-\\ntinople, when I heard Methley approaching my door\\nwith snouts of laughter, and welcome, and presently\\nI recognized that peculiar cry by which our friend\\nCarrigaholt expresses his emotions he soon explained\\nto us the final causes by which the fates had worked\\nout their wonderful purpose of bringing him to Con-\\nstantinople. He was always, you know, very fond\\nof sailing, but he had got into such sad scrapes\\n(including I think a lawsuit) on account of his last\\nyacht, that he took it into his head to have a cruise in\\na merchant vessel, so he went to Liverpool, and looked\\nthrough the craft lying ready to sail, till he found a\\nsmart schooner which perfectly suited his taste the\\ndestination of the vessel was the last thing he thought of,\\nand when he was told that she was bound for Constan-\\ntinople, he merely assented to that as a part of the\\narrangement to which he had no objection. When the\\nvessel had sailed, the hapless passenger discovered\\nthat his skipper carried on board an enormous wife\\nwith an inquiring mind, and an irresistible tendency to\\nimpart her opinions. She looked upon her guest as\\nupon a piece of waste intellect that ought to be care-\\nfully tilled. She tilled him accordingly. If the Dons\\nat Oxford could have seen poor Carrigaholt thus abso-\\nlutely attending lectures in the Bay of Biscay, they\\nwould surely have thought him sufficiently punished\\nfor all the wrongs he did them, whilst he was preparing\\nhimself under their care for the other, and more\\nboisterous University. The voyage did not last more\\nthan six, or eight weeks, and the philosophy inflicted\\non Carrigaholt was not entirely fatal to him certainly", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "44 EOTHEN\\nhe was somewhat emaciated, and for aught I know, he\\nmay have subscribed somewhat too largely to the\\nFeminine-right-of-reason Society but it did not\\nappear that his health had been seriously affected.\\nThere was a scheme on foot, it would seem, for taking\\nthe passenger back to England in the same schooner\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\na scheme, in fact, for keeping him perpetually afloat,\\nand perpetually saturated with arguments but when\\nCarrigaholt found himself a shore, and remembered\\nthat the skipperina, (who had imprudently remained on\\nboard,) was not there to enforce her suggestions, he was\\nopen to the hints of his servant (a very sharp fellow),\\nwho arranged a plan for escaping, and finally brought\\noff his master to Giuseppini s Hotel.\\nOur friend afterwards went by sea to Smyrna, and\\nthere he now was in his glory. He had a good, or at\\nall events a gentleman-like judgment in matters of taste,\\nand as his great object was to surround himself with\\nall that his fancy could dictate, he lived in a state of\\nperpetual negotiation he was for ever on the point of\\npurchasing, not only the material productions of the\\nplace, but all sorts of such fine ware as intelligence,\\nfidelity, and so on. He was most curious, however,\\nas the purchaser of the affections. Sometimes he\\nwould imagine that he had a marital aptitude, and his\\nfancy would sketch a graceful picture, in which he\\nappeared reclining on a divan, with a beautiful Greek\\nwoman fondly couched at his feet, and soothing him\\nwith the witchery of her guitar having satisfied him-\\nself with the ideal picture thus created, he would pass\\ninto action the guitar he would buy instantly, and\\nwould give such intimations of his wish to be wedded\\nto a Greek, as could not fail to produce great excite-\\nment in the families of the beautiful Smyrniotes. Then\\nagain, (and just in time perhaps to save him from the\\nyoke,) his dream would pass away, and another would\\ncome in its stead he would suddenly feel the yearnings\\nof a father s love, and willing by force of gold to tran-\\nscend all natural preliminaries,, he would give instruc-", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "INFIDEL SMYRNA\\n45\\ntions for the purchase of some dutiful child that could\\nbe warranted to love him as a parent. Then at another\\ntime he would be convinced that the attachment of\\nmenials might satisfy the longings of his affectionate\\nheart, and thereupon he would give orders to his slave-\\nmerchant for something in the way of eternal fidelity\\nYou may well imagine that this anxiety of Carrigaholt\\nto purchase (not only the scenery) but the many dra-\\nmatis personam belonging to his dreams, with all their\\ngoodness, and graces complete, necessarily gave an\\nimmense stimulus to the trade, and intrigue of Smyrna,\\nand created a demand for human virtues which the\\nmoral resources of the place were totally inadequate to\\nsupply. Every day after breakfast, this lover of the\\nGood and the Beautiful, held a levee, which was often\\nexceedingly amusing in his ante-room, there would\\nbe not only the sellers of pipes, and slippers, and shawls,\\nand such like Oriental merchandise, not only embroi-\\nderers, and cunning workmen patiently striving to\\nrealize his visions of Albanian dresses not only the\\nservants offering for places, and the slave-dealer tender-\\ning his sable ware, but there would be the Greek master,\\nwaiting to teach his pupil the grammar of the soft\\nIonian tongue, in which he was to delight the wife of\\nhis imagination, and the music-master who was to teach\\nhim some sweet replies to the anticipated sounds of the\\nfancied guitar and then above all, and proudly eminent\\nwith undisputed preference of entree, and fraught with\\nthe mysterious tidings on which the realization of the\\nwhole dream might depend, was the mysterious match-\\nmaker, 1 enticing, and postponing the suitor, yet ever\\nkeeping alive in his soul the love of that pictured virtue\\nwhose beauty, (unseen by eyes) was half revealed to the\\nImagination.\\nYou would have thought that this practical dreaming,\\nmust have soon brought Carrigaholt to a bad end, but\\nhe was in much less danger than you would suppose\\n1 Marriages in the East are arranged by professed match-\\nmakers many of these, I believe, are Jewesses.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "4 6\\nEOTHEN\\nfor besides that the new visions of happiness almost\\nalways came in time to counteract the fatal completion\\nof the preceding scheme, his high breeding, and his\\ndelicately sensitive taste almost always came to his\\naid, at times, when he was left without any other pro-\\ntection, and the efficacy of these qualities in keeping a\\nman out of harm s way is really immense in all base-\\nness and imposture there is a coarse, vulgar spirit,\\nwhich, however artfully concealed for a time, must\\nsooner or later shew itself in some little circumstance,\\nsufficiently plain to occasion an instant jar upon the\\nminds of those whose taste is lively and true to such\\nmen a shock of this kind disclosing the ugliness of a\\ncheat, is more effectively convincing, than any mere\\nproofs could be.\\nThus guarded from isle to isle, and through Greece,\\nand through Albania, this practical Plato, with a purse\\nin his hand, carried on his mad chase after the Good\\nand the Beautiful, and yet returned in safety to his\\nhome. But now, poor fellow the lowly grave, that is\\nthe end of men s romantic hopes, has closed over all\\nhis rich fancies, and all his high aspirations he is\\nutterly married No more hope, no more change for\\nhim no more delays he must go on Vetturini-wise to\\nthe appointed end of his journey\\nSmyrna, I think, may be called the chief town, and\\ncapital of the Grecian race, against which you will be\\ncautioned so carefully as soon as you touch the Levant.\\nYou will say that I ought not to confound as one people\\nthe Greeks living under a constitutional government,\\nwith the unfortunate Rayahs who groan under the\\nTurkish yoke, but I can t see that political events have\\nhitherto produced any strongly marked difference of\\ncharacter. If I could venture to rely (which I feel that\\nI cannot at all do) upon my own observation, I should\\ntell you that there was more heartiness, and strength\\nin the Greeks of the Ottoman Empire than in those of\\nthe new kingdom the truth is, that there is a greater\\nfield for commercial enterprise, and even for Greek", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "INFIDEL SMYRNA\\n47\\nambitions under the Ottoman sceptre, than is to be\\nfound in the dominions of Otho. Indeed the people,\\nby their frequent migrations from the limits of the con-\\nstitutional kingdom, to the territories of the Porte, seem\\nto shew, that, on the whole, they prefer groaning under\\nthe Turkish yoke, to the honour of being the only\\ntrue source of legitimate power, in their own land.\\nFor myself, I love the race in spite of all their\\nvices, and even in spite of all their meannesses, I re-\\nmember the blood that is in them, and still love the\\nGreeks. The Osmanlees are, of course, by nature, by\\nreligion, and by politics, the strong foes of the Hellenic\\npeople, and as the Greeks, poor fellows happen to be\\na little deficient in some of the virtues which facilitate\\nthe transaction of commercial business, (such as vera-\\ncity, fidelity, c.) it naturally follows that they are\\nhighly unpopular with the European merchants. Now,\\nthese are the persons through whom, either directly or\\nindirectly, is derived the greater part of the informa-\\ntion which you gather in the Levant, and therefore you\\nmust make up your mind to hear an almost universal,\\nand unbroken testimony against the character of the\\npeople, whose ancestors invented Virtue. And strange\\nto say, the Greeks themselves do not attempt to disturb\\nthis general unanimity of opinion by any dissent on\\ntheir part. Question a Greek on the subject, and he\\nwill tell you at once that the people are traditori, and\\nwill then, perhaps, endeavour to shake off his fair share\\nof the imputation, by asserting that his father had been\\ndragoman to some foreign embassy, and that he, (the\\nson,) therefore, by the law of nations, had ceased to be\\nGreek.\\nE dunque no siete traditore\\nPossibile, Signor, ma almeno Io no sono Greco.\\nNot even the diplomatic representatives of the\\nHellenic kingdom are free from the habit of depreciat-\\ning their brethren. I recollect, that at one of the ports\\nin Syria, a Greek vessel was rather unfairly kept in\\nquarantine by order of the Board of Health, which", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "4 8\\nEOTHEN\\nconsisted entirely of Europeans. A consular agent\\nfrom the kingdom of Greece had lately hoisted his\\nflag in the town, and the captain of the vessel drew up\\na remonstrance, which he requested his consul to\\npresent to the Board.\\nNow, is this reasonable? said the consul, is it\\nreasonable that I should place myself in collision with\\nall the principal European gentlemen of the place for\\nthe sake of you, a Greek The skipper was greatly\\nvexed at the failure of his application, but he scarcely\\neven questioned the justice of the ground which his\\nconsul had taken. Well, it happened some time after-\\nwards, that I found myself at the same port, having\\ngone thither with the view of embarking for the port\\nof Syra. I was anxious of course to elude as carefully\\nas possible the quarantine detention which threatened\\nme on my arrival, and hearing that the Greek consul\\nhad a brother who was a man in authority at Syra, I\\ngot myself presented to the former, and took the\\nliberty of asking him to give me such a letter of introduc-\\ntion to his relative at Syra, as might possibly have the\\neffect of shortening the term of my quarantine he\\nacceded to this request with the utmost kindness, and\\ncourtesy, but when he replied to my thanks by saying\\nthat in serving an Englishman he was doing no more\\nthan his strict duty commanded, not even my gratitude\\ncould prevent me from calling to mind his treatment\\nof the poor captain who had the misfortune of not being\\nalien in blood to his consul, and appointed protector.\\nI think that the change which has taken place in the\\ncharacter of the Greeks, has been occasioned, in great\\nmeasure by the doctrines and practice of their religion.\\nThe Greek Church has animated the Muscovite peasant,\\nand inspired him with hopes, and ideas, which however\\nhumble, are still better than none at all but the faith,\\nand the forms, and the strange ecclesiastical literature\\nwhich act so advantageously upon the mere clay of the\\nRussian serf, seem to hang like lead upon the ethereal\\nspirit of the Greek. Never, in any part of the world,", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "INFIDEL SMYRNA\\n49\\nhave I seen religious performances so painful to witness\\nas those of the Greeks. The horror, however, with\\nwhich one shudders at their worship, is attributable in\\nsome measure, to the mere effect of costume. In all\\nthe Ottoman dominions, and very frequently too, in the\\nKingdom of Otho, the Greeks wear turbans, or other\\nhead-dresses, and shave their heads, leaving only a\\nrat s-tail at the crown of the head they of course keep\\nthemselves covered within doors, as well as abroad,\\nand never remove their head-gear, merely on account\\nof being in a church but when the Greek stops to\\nworship at his proper shrine, then, and then only, he\\nalways uncovers and as you see him thus with shaven\\nskull, and savage tail depending from his crown, kissing\\na thing of wood, and glass, and cringing with base\\nprostrations, and apparent terror before a miserable\\npicture, you see superstition in a shape, which, out-\\nwardly at least, looks sadly abject, and repulsive.\\nThe fasts, too, of the Greek Church, produce an ill\\neffect upon the character of the people, for they are\\ncarried to such an extent, as to bring about a bona fide\\n1 mortification of the flesh the febrile irritation of the\\nI frame operating in conjunction with the depression of\\nthe spirits occasioned by abstinence, will so far answer\\nI the objects of the rite, as to engender some religious\\nexcitement, but this is of a morbid, and gloomy\\nI character, and it seems to be certain, that along with\\nI the increase of sanctity, there comes a fiercer desire\\nj for the perpetration of dark crimes. The number of\\nI murders committed during Lent, is greater, I am told,\\nj than at any other time of the year. A man under the\\nI influence of a bean dietary (for this is the principal\\nI food of the Greeks during their fasts), will be in an apt\\nhumour for enriching the shrine of his Saint, and pass-\\ning a knife through his next door neighbour. The\\nmonies deposited upon the shrines are appropriated by\\npriests the priests are married men, and have families", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nto provide for; they take the good with the bad,\\nand continue to recommend fasts.\\nThen too, the Greek Church enjoins her followers to\\nkeep holy such a vast number of Saints days, as\\npractically to shorten the lives of the people very\\nmaterially. I believe that one third out of the number\\nof days in the year are kept holy, or rather, kept\\nstupid, in honour of the Saints no great portion of\\nthe time thus set apart is spent in religious exercises,\\nand the people don t betake themselves to any animat-\\ning pastimes, which might serve to strengthen the\\nframe, or invigorate the mind, or exalt the taste. On\\nthe contrary, the Saints days of the Greeks in Smyrna,\\nare passed in the same manner as the Sabbaths of well-\\nbehaved Protestant housemaids in London that is to\\nsay, in a steady, and serious contemplation of street\\nscenery. The men perform this duty at the doors of\\ntheir houses, the women at the windows, which the\\ncustom of Greek towns has so decidedly appropriated\\nto them as the proper station of their sex, that a man\\nwould be looked upon as utterly effeminate if he\\nventured to choose that situation for the keeping of the\\nSaints days. I was present one day at a treaty for\\nthe hire of some apartments at Smyrna, which was\\ncarried on between Carrigaholt, and the Greek woman\\nto whom the rooms belonged. Carrigaholt objected\\nthat the windows commanded no view of the street\\nimmediately the brow of the majestic matron was\\nclouded, and with all the scorn of a Spartan mother\\nshe coolly asked Carrigaholt and said, Art thou a\\ntender damsel that thou wouldest sit, and gaze from\\nwindows The man whom she addressed, however,\\nhad not gone to Greece with any intention of placing\\nhimself under the laws of Lycurgus, and was not to be\\ndiverted from his views by a Spartan rebuke, so he\\ntook care to find himself windows after his own heart,\\nand there, I believe, for many a month, he kept the\\nSaints days, and all the days intervening, after the\\nfashion of Grecian women.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "INFIDEL SMYRNA\\n5i\\nOh let me be charitable to all who write, and to all\\nwho lecture, and to all who preach, since even I, a\\nlay-man not forced to write at all, can hardly avoid\\nchiming in with some tuneful cant I have had the heart\\nto talk about the pernicious effects of the Greek holy-\\ndays, to which I owe some of my most beautiful visions\\nI will let the words stand, as a humbling proof that I am\\nsubject to that immutable law which compels a man\\nwith a pen in his hand to be uttering every now and\\nthen some sentiment not his own. It seems as though\\nthe power of expressing regrets and desires by written\\nsymbols were coupled with a condition that the writer\\nshould from time to time express the regrets and\\ndesires of other people as though, like a French\\npeasant under the old regime, one were bound to\\nperform a certain amount of work upon the public\\nhighways. I rebel as stoutly as I can against this\\nhorrible corvee\u00e2\u0080\u0094 I try not to deceive you I try to set\\ndown the thoughts which are fresh within me, and not\\nto pretend any wishes, or griefs, which I do not really\\nfeel, but no sooner do I cease from watchfulness in this\\nregard, than my right hand is as it were seized by\\nsome false demon, and even now, you see, I have been\\nforced to put down such words, and sentences as I\\nought to have written, if really, and truly I had wished\\nto disturb the Saints days of the beautiful Smyrniotes\\nWhich, Heaven forbid for as you move through the\\nnarrow streets of the city, at these times of festival, the\\ntransom-shaped windows suspended over your head, on\\neither side are filled with the beautiful descendants of\\nthe old Ionian race all (even yonder Empress that sits\\nthroned at the window of that humblest mud cottage,)\\nare attired with seeming magnificence their classic\\nheads are crowned with scarlet, and loaded with jewels,\\nI or coins of gold the whole wealth of the wearers l\\ntheir features are touched with a savage pencil, which\\n1 A Greek woman wears her whole fortune upon her person,\\nin the shape of jewels, or gold coins I believe that this mode of", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "52\\nEOTHEN\\nhardens the outline of eyes, and eye-brows, and lends\\nan unnatural fire to the stern, grave looks, with which\\nthey pierce your brain. Endure their fiery eyes as\\nbest you may, and ride on slowly, and reverently, for\\nfacing you from the side of the transom, that looks\\nlong-wise through the street, you see the one glorious\\nshape transcendant in its beauty you see the massive\\nbraid of hair as it catches a touch of light on its jetty\\nsurface and the broad, calm, angry brow the large\\nblack eyes, deep set, and self-relying like the eyes of a\\nconqueror, with their rich shadows of thought lying\\ndarkly around them, you see the thin fiery nostril,\\nand the bold line of the chin, and throat disclosing all\\nthe fierceness, and all the pride, passion, and power\\nthat can live along with the rare womanly beauty of\\nthose sweetly turned lips. But then there is a terrible\\nstillness in this breathing image it seems like the\\nstillness of a savage that sits intent, and brooding day\\nby day, upon some one fearful scheme of vengeance, but\\nyet more like it seems to the stillness of an Immortal,\\nwhose will must be known, and obeyed without sign, or\\nspeech. Bow down Bow down, and adore the young\\nPersephonie, transcendant Queen of Shades\\ninvestment is adopted in great measure for safety s sake. It has\\nthe advantage of enabling a suitor to reckon, as well as to admire\\nthe objects of his affection.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI\\nGREEK MARINERS\\nI SAILED from Smyrna in the Amphitrite, a Greek\\nbrigantine, which was confidently said to be bound\\nfor the coast of Syria, but I knew that this announce-\\nment was not to be relied upon with positive certainty,\\nfor the Greek mariners are practically free from the\\nstringency of ship s papers, and where they will, there\\nthey go. However, I had the whole of the cabin to\\nmyself, and my attendant Mysseri, subject only to the\\nsociety of the Captain at the hour of dinner being at\\nease in this respect, being furnished too with plenty of\\nbooks, and rinding an unfailing source of interest in\\nthe thorough Greekness of my Captain and my crew,\\nI felt less anxious than most people would have been\\nabout the probable length of the cruise I knew enough\\nof Greek navigation to be sure that our vessel would\\ncling to Earth like a child to its mother s knee, and that\\nI should touch at many an isle before I set foot upon\\nthe Syrian coast but I had no invidious preference\\nfor Europe, Asia, or Africa, and I felt that I could\\ndefy the winds to blow me upon a coast that was\\nblank, and void of interest. My. patience was ex-\\ntremely useful to me, for the cruise altogether endured\\nsome forty days, and that in the midst of winter.\\nAccording to me, the most interesting of all the\\nGreeks (male Greeks) are the Mariners, because their\\npursuits, and their social condition are so nearly the\\nsame, as those of their glorious ancestors you will\\nsay, that the occupation of commerce, must have", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "54\\nEOTHEN\\nsmoothed down the salience of their minds and this\\nwould be so perhaps, if their mercantile affairs were\\nconducted according to the fixed business-like routine\\nof Europeans but the ventures of the Greeks are sur-\\nrounded by such a multitude of imagined dangers, (and\\nfrom the absence of regular marts, in which the true\\nvalue of merchandise can be ascertained) are so entirely\\nspeculative, and besides are conducted in a manner, so\\nwholly determined upon by the wayward fancies, and\\nwishes of the crew, that they belong to Enterprize,\\nrather than to Industry, and are very far indeed from\\ntending to deaden any freshness of character.\\nThe vessels in which war, and piracy were carried\\non during the years of the Greek Revolution, became\\nmerchant men at the end of the war but the tactics\\nof the Greeks, as naval warriors were so exceedingly\\ncautious, and their habits as commercial mariners, are\\nso wild, that the change has been more slight than you\\nmight imagine. The first care of Greeks (Greek\\nRayahs) when they undertake a shipping enterprize,\\nis to procure for their vessel the protection of some\\nEuropean power this is easily managed by a little\\nintriguing with the Dragoman of one of the Embassies\\nat Constantinople, and the craft soon glories in the\\nensign of Russia, or the dazzling Tricolour, or the\\nUnion Jack thus, to the great delight of her crew,\\nshe enters upon the ocean world with a flaring lie at\\nher peak, but the appearance of the vessel does no\\ndiscredit to the borrowed flag she is frailer perhaps\\nthan the rest of her sex, but she does not look the\\nworse for this in harbour she is gracefully built, and\\nsmartly rigged she always carries guns, and in short\\ngives good promise of mischief, and speed.\\nThe privileges attached to the vessel and her crew,\\nby virtue of the borrowed flag are so great as to imply\\na degree of liberty, greater than that which is enjoyed\\nby individuals in our more strictly civilized countries,\\nso that there is no pretence for saying that the develop-\\nment of the true character belonging to Greek mariners,", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "GREEK MARINERS\\n55\\nis prevented by the dominion of the Ottomans they\\nare free too from the power of the great Capitalist\\nwhose imperial sway is more withering than despotism\\nitself, to the enterprizes of humble venturers. The\\ncapital employed is supplied by those whose labour is\\nto render it productive the crew receive no wages,\\nbut have all a share in the venture, and in general, I\\nbelieve, they are the owners of the whole freight they\\nchoose a Captain to whom they entrust just power\\nenough to keep the vessel on her course in fine weather,\\nbut not quite enough for a gale of wind they also\\nelect a cook, and a mate the cook whom we had on\\nboard was particularly careful about the ship s reckon-\\ning, and when under the influence of the keen sea\\nbreezes, we grew fondly expectant of an instant dinner,\\nthe great author of pilafs would be standing on deck\\nwith an ancient quadrant in his hands, calmly affect-\\ning to take an observation. But then to make up for\\nthis the Captain would be exercising a controlling\\ninfluence over the soup, so that all in the end went\\nwell. Our mate was a Hydriot, a native of that island\\nrock which grows nothing but mariners, and mariners\\nwives. His character seemed to be exactly that which\\nis generally attributed to the Hydriot race he was\\nfierce, and gloomy, and lonely in his ways. One of\\nhis principal duties seemed to be that of acting as\\ncounter-captain, or leader of the opposition, denouncing\\nthe first symptoms of tyranny, and protecting even the\\ncabin boy from oppression. Besides this, when things\\nwent smoothly, he would begin to prognosticate evil, in\\norder that his more light-hearted comrades might not\\nbe puffed up with the seeming good fortune of the\\nmoment.\\nIt seemed to me that the personal freedom of these\\nsailors, who own no superiors except those of their own\\nchoice, is as like as may be to that of their sea-faring\\nancestors. And even in their mode of navigation they\\nhave admitted no such an entire change as you would\\nsuppose probable it is true that they have so far", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "56\\nEOTHEN\\navailed themselves of modern discoveries as to look to\\nthe compass instead of the stars, and that they have\\nsuperseded the immortal Gods of their forefathers by\\nSt. Nicholas in his glass case, 1 but they are not yet so\\nconfident either in their needle, or their Saint, as to love\\nan open sea, and they still hug their shores as fondly as\\nthe Argonauts of old. Indeed they have a most un-\\nsailor-like love for the land, and I really believe that in\\na gale of wind they would rather have a rock-bound\\ncoast on their lee, than no coast at all. According to\\nthe notions of an English seaman this kind of naviga-\\ntion would soon bring the vessel on which it might be\\npractised to an evil end. The Greek however is un-\\naccountably successful in escaping the consequences of\\nbeing jammed in, as it is called, upon a lee shore\\nhe is favoured, I suppose, by the nature of the coasts\\nalong which he sails, especially those of the many\\nislands through which he threads his way in the ^Egean,\\nfor there is generally, I think, deep water home to the\\nvery cliffs, and besides there are innumerable coves in\\nwhich the dexterous sailor, who knows, and loves the\\nland so well, will contrive to find a shelter.\\nThese seamen like their forefathers rely upon no\\nwinds unless they are right a-stern, or on the quarter\\nthey rarely go on a wind if it blows at all fresh, and if\\nthe adverse breeze approaches to a gale, they at once\\nfumigate St. Nicholas, and put up the helm. The con-\\nsequence of course is that under the ever-varying\\nwinds of the yEgean they are blown about in the most\\nwhimsical manner. I used to think that Ulysses with\\nhis ten years voyage had taken his time in making\\nIthaca, but my experience in Greek navigation soon\\nmade me understand that he had had, in point of fact,\\na pretty good average passage.\\nSuch are now the mariners of the ^Egean free,\\n1 St. Nicholas is the great patron of Greek sailors a small\\npicture of him enclosed in a glass case is hung up like a baro-\\nmeter at one end of the cabin.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "GREEK MARINERS\\n57\\nequal amongst themselves, navigating the seas of their\\nforefathers with the same heroic, and yet child-like spirit\\nof venture, the same half-trustful reliance upon heavenly\\naid, they are the liveliest images of true old Greeks that\\ntime, and the new religions have spared to us.\\nWith one exception, our crew were a solemn com-\\npany, 1 and yet, sometimes, when all things went well,\\nthey would relax their austerity, and shew a disposition\\nto fun, or rather to quiet humour when this happened,\\nthey invariably had recourse to one of their number,\\nwho went by the name of Admiral Nicolou; he was\\nan amusing fellow, the poorest, I believe, and the least\\nthoughtful of the crew, but full of rich humour his\\noft-told story of the events by which he had gained the\\nsobriquet of Admiral, never failed to delight his\\nhearers, and when he was desired to repeat it for my\\nbenefit, the rest of the crew crowded round with as\\nmuch interest as if they were listening to the tale for the\\nfirst time. A number of Greek brigs and brigantines\\nwere at anchor in the bay of Beyrout a festival of some\\nkind, particularly attractive to the sailors, was going on\\nin the town, and whether with, or without leave I know\\nnot, but the crews of all the craft, except that of Nicolou,\\nhad gone ashore on board his vessel, however, which\\ncarried dollars, there was, it would seem, a more care-\\nful, or more influential Captain, who was able to enforce\\nhis determination, that one man, at least, should be left\\non board, Nicolou s good nature was with him so\\npowerful an impulse, that he could not resist the delight\\nof volunteering to stay with the vessel, whilst his com-\\nrades went ashore his proposal was accepted, and the\\ncrew and Captain soon left him alone on the deck of\\nhis vessel. The sailors, gathering together from their\\nseveral ships, were amusing themselves in the town,\\nwhen suddenly there came down from betwixt the\\nmountains, one of those sudden hurricanes which\\nsometimes occur in southern climes Nicolou s vessel,\\n1 Hanmer.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "58\\nEOTHEN\\ntogether with four of the craft which had been left un-\\nmanned, broke from her moorings, and all five of the\\nvessels were carried out seaward the town is on a\\nsalient point at the southern side of the Bay, so that\\nthe Admiral was close under the eyes of the inhabit-\\nants, and the shore-gone sailors, when he gallantly\\ndrifted out at the head of his little fleet if Nicolou\\ncould not entirely controul the manoeuvres of the\\nSquadron, there was at least no human power to divide\\nhis authority, and thus it was that he took rank as\\nAdmiral. Nicolou cut his cable, and thus for the\\ntime saved his vessel for the rest of the fleet, under\\nhis command, were quickly wrecked, whilst the Ad-\\nmiral got away clear to the open sea. The violence\\nof the squall soon passed off, but Nicolou felt that his\\nchance of one day resigning his high duties as an ad-\\nmiral for the enjoyments of private life on the stedfast\\nshore, mainly depended upon his success in working\\nthe brig with his own hands, so after calling on his\\nnamesake, the saint, (not for the first time, I take it)\\nhe got up some canvass, and took the helm he became\\nequal, he told us, to a score of Nicolous, and the vessel,\\nas he said, was manned with his terrors. For two\\ndays, it seems, he cruised at large, but at last, either\\nby his seamanship, or by the natural instinct of the\\nGreek mariners for finding land, he brought his craft\\nclose to an unknown shore, which promised well for\\nhis purpose of running in the vessel, and he was pre-\\nparing to give her a good berth on the beach, when he\\nsaw a gang of ferocious looking fellows coming down\\nto the point for which he was making. Poor Nicolou\\nwas a perfectly unlettered, and untutored genius, and\\nfor that reason, perhaps, a keen listener to tales of\\nterror his mind had been impressed with some hor-\\nrible legend of cannibalism, and he now did not doubt\\nfor a moment that the men awaiting him on the beach\\nwere the monsters at whom he had shuddered in the\\ndays of his childhood. The coast on which Nicolou\\nwas running his vessel was somewhere, I fancy, at the", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "GREEK MARINERS\\n59\\nfoot of the Anzairie mountains, and the fellows who\\nwere preparing to give him a reception were probably\\nvery rough specimens of humanity it is likely enough\\nthat they may have given themselves the trouble of\\nputting the Admiral to death, for the purpose of\\nsimplifying their claim to the vessel, and preventing\\nlitigation, but the notion of their cannibalism, was of\\ncourse utterly unfounded Nicolou s terror had, how-\\never, so graven the idea on his mind, that he could\\nnever afterwards dismiss it. Having once determined\\nthe character of his expectant hosts, the Admiral\\nnaturally thought that it would be better to keep their\\ndinner waiting any length of time, than to attend their\\nfeast in the character of a roasted Greek, so he put\\nabout his vessel, and tempted the deep once more.\\nAfter a farther cruise the lonely commander ran his\\nvessel upon some rocks at another part of the coast,\\nwhere she was lost with all her treasures, and Nicolou\\nwas but too glad to scramble ashore, though without\\none dollar in his girdle. These adventures seem flat\\nenough as I repeat them, but the hero expressed his\\nterrors by such odd terms of speech, and such strangely\\nhumorous gestures, that the story came from his lips\\nwith an unfailing zest, so that the crew who had heard\\nthe tale so often, could still enjoy to their hearts the\\nrich fright of the Admiral, and still shuddered with un-\\nabated horror when he came to the loss of the dollars.\\nThe power of listening to long stories (for which by\\nthe bye I am giving you large credit,) is common I\\nfancy to most sailors, and the Greeks have it to a great\\ndegree, for they can be perfectly patient under a narra-\\ntive of two or three hours duration. These long stories\\nare mostly founded upon Oriental topics, and in one of\\nthem I recognized with some alterations an old friend\\nof the Arabian Nights I inquired as to the source\\nfrom which the story had been derived, and the crew\\nall agreed that it had been handed down unwritten\\nfrom Greek to Greek their account of the matter does\\nnot, perhaps, go very far towards shewing the real", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "6o\\nEOTHEN\\norigin of the tale, but when I afterwards took up the\\nArabian Nights, I became strongly impressed with\\na notion that they must have sprung from the brain of\\na Greek. It seems to me that these stories whilst they\\ndisclose a complete, and habitual knowledge of things\\nAsiatic, have about them so much of freshness and life,\\nso much of the stirring, and volatile European character,\\nthat they cannot have owed their conception to a mere\\nOriental, who, for creative purposes, is a thing dead\\nand dry a mental mummy that may have been a live\\nKing just after the flood, but has since lain balmed in\\nspice. At the time of the Caliphat the Greek race was\\nfamiliar enough to Bagdad they were the merchants,\\nthe pedlars, the barbers, and intriguers-general of South-\\nwestern Asia, and therefore the Oriental materials with\\nwhich the Arabian tales are wrought, must have been\\ncompletely at the command of the inventive people to\\nwhom I would attribute their origin.\\nWe were nearing the isle of Cyprus, when there\\narose half a gale of wind, with a heavy, chopping sea\\nmy Greek seamen considered that the weather amounted\\nnot to a half, but to an integral gale of wind at the very\\nleast, so they put up the helm, and scudded for twenty\\nhours when we neared the main land of Anadoli, the\\ngale ceased, and a favourable breeze sprung up, which\\nbrought us off Cyprus once more. Afterwards the\\nwind changed again, but we were still able to lay our\\ncourse by sailing close-hauled.\\nWe were, at length, in such a position, that by hold-\\ning on our course for about half an hour, we should get\\nunder the lee of the island, and find ourselves in smooth\\nwater, but the wind had been gradually freshening; it\\nnow blew hard, and there was a heavy sea running.\\nAs the grounds for alarm arose, the crew gathered\\ntogether in one close group they stood pale, and grim\\nunder their hooded capotes like monks awaiting a\\nmassacre, anxiously looking by turns along the path-\\nway of the storm, and then upon each other, and then\\nupon the eye of the Captain who stood by the helms-", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "GREEK MARINERS\\n61\\nman. Presently the Hydriot came aft, more moody\\nthan ever, the bearer of fierce remonstrance against\\nthe continuing of the struggle he received a resolute\\nanswer, and still we held our course. Soon there came\\na heavy sea, that caught the bow of the brigantine as\\nshe lay jammed in betwixt the waves she bowed her\\nhead low under the waters, and shuddered through all\\nher timbers then gallantly stood up again over the\\nstriving sea, with bowsprit entire. But where were\\nthe crew? It was a crew no longer, but rather a\\ngathering of Greek citizens the shout of the seamen\\nwas changed for the murmuring of the people the\\nspirit of the old Demos was alive. The men came aft\\nin a body, and loudly asked that the vessel should be\\nput about, and that the storm should be no longer\\ntempted. Now, then, for speeches the Captain, his\\neyes flashing fire, his frame all quivering with emotion\\nwielding his every limb, like another, and a louder\\nvoice, pours forth the eloquent torrent of his threats,\\nand his reasons, his commands, and his prayers he\\npromises he vows he swears that there is safety in\\nholding on safety, if Greeks will be brave I The men\\nhear, and are moved, but the gale rouses itself once\\nmore, and again the raging sea comes trampling over\\nthe timbers that are the life of all. The fierce Hydriot\\nadvances one step more near to the Captain, and the\\nangry growl of the people goes floating down the wind,\\nbut they listen they waver once more, and once more\\nresolve, then waver again, thus doubtfully hanging\\nbetween the terrors of the storm, and the persuasion of\\n[glorious speech, as though it were the Athenian that\\ntalked, and Philip of Macedon that thundered on the\\nweather bow.\\nBrave thoughts winged on Grecian words gained\\ntheir natural mastery over Terror; the Brigantine held\\non her course, and reached smooth water at last. I\\nlanded at Limesol, the westernmost port of Cyprus,\\nleaving the vessel to sail for Larnecca, where she was\\nto remain for some days.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII\\nCYPRUS\\nTHERE was a Greek at Limesol, who hoisted his\\nflag as an English Vice-Consul, and he insisted\\nupon my accepting his hospitality with some difficulty,\\nand chiefly by assuring him that I could not delay my\\ndeparture beyond an early hour in the afternoon, I in-\\nduced him to allow my dining with his family, instead\\nof banqueting all alone with the representative of my\\nsovereign, in consular state and dignity the lady of\\nthe house, it seemed, had never sat at a table with an\\nEuropean she was very shy about the matter, and\\ntried hard to get out of the scrape, but the husband, I\\nfancy, reminded her, that she was theoretically an\\nEnglish-woman by virtue of the flag which waved over\\nher roof, and that she was bound to shew her nationality\\nby sitting at meat with me finding herself inexorably\\ncondemned to bear with the dreaded gaze of European\\neyes, she tried to save her innocent children from the\\nhard fate which awaited herself, but I obtained that all\\nof them (and I think there were four or five) should sit\\nat the table. You will meet with abundance of stately\\nreceptions, and of generous hospitality too in the East,\\nbut rarely, very rarely in those regions, (or even, so far\\nas I know, in any part of southern Europe) does one\\ngain an opportunity of seeing the familiar, and indoor\\nlife of the people.\\nThis family party of the good consul s (or rather of\\nmine, for I originated the idea, though he furnished the\\nmaterials) went off very well the mamma was shy at", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "CYPRUS\\n63\\nfirst, but she veiled the awkwardness which she felt by\\naffecting to scold her children, who had all of them, I\\nthink, immortal names names too which they owed to\\ntradition, and certainly not to any classical enthusiasm\\nof their parents every instant I was delighted by\\nsome such phrases as these Themistocles, my love,\\ndon t fight. Alcibiades, can t you sit still? So-\\ncrates, put down the cup. Oh, fie Aspasia, don t,\\nOh! don t be naughty! It is true that the names\\nwere pronounced, Socrahtie, Aspahsie that is, accord-\\ning to accent, and not according to quantity, but I\\nsuppose it is scarcely now to be doubted that they were\\nso sounded in ancient times.\\nTo me, it seems, that of all the lands I know, (you\\nwill see in a minute how I connect this piece of prose\\nwith the Isle of Cyprus,) there is none in which mere\\nwealth mere unaided wealth, is held half so cheaply\\ni none in which a poor devil of a millionaire without\\nbirth, or ability occupies so humble a place as in Eng-\\nland. My Greek host, and I were sitting together, I think\\nupon the roof of the house, (for that is the lounging\\nplace in Eastern climes,) when the former assumed a\\nserious air, and intimated a wish to converse upon the\\nsubject of the British Constitution, with which he\\nassured me that he was thoroughly acquainted he\\npresently, however, informed me that there was one\\nanomalous circumstance attendant upon the practical\\nworking of our political system which he had never\\nbeen able to hear explained in a manner satisfactory to\\nhimself. From the fact of his having found a difficulty\\nin his subject, I began to think that my host might\\nreally know rather more of it than his announcement of\\na thorough knowledge had led me to expect I felt\\ninterested at being about to hear from the lips of an\\nintelligent Greek, quite remote from the influence of\\nEuropean opinions, what might seem to him the most\\nastonishing, and incomprehensible of all those results\\nwhich have followed from the action of our political\\ninstitutions. The anomaly\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the only anomaly which", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "6 4\\nEOTHEN\\nhad been detected by the vice-consular wisdom, con-\\nsisted in the fact, that Rothschild, (the late money-\\nmonger,) had never been the Prime Minister of England\\nI gravely tried to throw some light upon the mysterious\\ncauses which had kept the worthy Israelite out of the\\nCabinet, but I think I could see that my explanation\\nwas not satisfactory. Go and argue with the flies of\\nsummer, that there is a Power divine, yet greater than\\nthe Sun in the heavens, but never dare hope to con-\\nvince the people of the South that there is any other\\nGod than Gold.\\nMy intended journey was to the site of the Paphian\\ntemple. I take no antiquarian interest in ruins, and\\ncare little about them, unless they are either striking\\nin themselves, or else serve to mark some spot on\\nwhich my fancy loves to dwell. I knew that the ruins\\nof Paphos were scarcely, if at all discernible, but there\\nwas a will, and a longing, more imperious than mere\\ncuriosity, that drove me thither.\\nFor this just then was my Pagan soul s desire that\\n(not forfeiting my Christian s inheritance for the life to\\ncome,) it were yet given me to live through this world\\nto live a favoured mortal under the old Olympian\\ndispensation to speak out my resolves to the listening\\nJove, and hear him answer with approving thunder\\nto be blessed with divine counsels from the lips of\\nPallas Athenie to believe aye, only to believe to\\nbelieve for one rapturous moment that in the gloomy\\ndepths of the grove, by the mountain s side, there were\\nsome leafy pathway that crisped beneath the glowing\\nsandal of Aphrodetie Aphrodetie, not coldly disdainful\\nof even a mortal s love And this vain, heathenish\\nlonging of mine was father to the thought of visiting\\nthe scene of the ancient worship.\\nThe isle is beautiful from the edge of the rich,\\nflowery fields on which I trod, to the midway sides of\\nthe snowy Olympus, the ground could only here, and\\nthere show an abrupt crag, or a high, straggling ridge,\\nthat up-shouldered itself from out of the wilderness of", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "[Hi\\nCYPRUS 65\\nmyrtles, and of the thousand bright-leaved shrubs that\\ntwined their arms together in lovesome tangles. The\\nair that came to my lips was warm, and fragrant as the\\nambrosial breath of the goddess, infecting me not, (of\\ncourse,) with a faith in the old religion of the isle, but\\nwith a sense, and apprehension of its mystic power\\na power that was still to be obeyed obeyed by me, for\\nwhy otherwise did I toil on with sorry horses to where,\\nfor HER, the hundred altars glowed with Arabian\\nincense, and breathed with the fragrance of garlands\\never fresh P 1\\nI passed a sadly disenchanting night in the cabin of\\na Greek priest not a priest of the Goddess, but of\\nthe Greek church there was but one humble room, or\\nrather shed, for man, and priest, and beast. The next\\nmorning I reached Baffa (Paphos), which is not far\\ndistant from the site of the temple there was a Greek\\nhusbandman there who (not for emolument, but for the\\nsake of the protection, and dignity which it afforded)\\nhad got leave from the man at Limesol to hoist his\\nflag as a sort of D eputy- pro visionary -sub- vice- pro\\nacting Pro-consul of the British Sovereign the poor\\nfellow instantly changed his Greek head-gear for the\\ncap of consular dignity, and insisted upon accompany-\\ning me to the ruins I would not have stood this, if I\\ncould have felt the faintest gleam of my yesterday s\\npagan piety, but I had ceased to dream, and had\\nnothing to dread from any new disenchanters.\\nThe ruins (the fragments of one or two prostrate\\npillars) stand upon a promontory, bare, and unmystified\\nby the gloom of surrounding groves my Greek friend\\nin his consular cap stood by, respectfully waiting to see\\nwhat turn my madness would take, now that I had\\ncome at last into the presence of the old stones. If\\nyou have no taste for research, and can t affect to look\\nfor inscriptions, there is some awkwardness in coming\\n1 ubi templum illi, centumque Sabaso\\nThure calent aree, sertisque recentibus halant.\\n^Eneid i. 415.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "66 EOTHEN\\nto the end of a merely sentimental pilgrimage, when\\nthe feeling, which impelled you, has gone you have\\nnothing to do but to laugh the thing off as well as you\\ncan, and, by the by, it is not a bad plan to turn the\\nconversation (or rather allow the natives to turn it)\\ntowards the subject of hidden treasures this is a topic\\non which they will always speak with eagerness, and if\\nthey can fancy that you, too, take an interest in such\\nmatters, they will not only think you perfectly sane,\\nbut will begin to give you credit for some more than\\nhuman powers of forcing the obscure earth to shew you\\nits hoards of gold.\\nWhen we returned to J3afTa, the Pro-consul seized a\\nclub, with the quietly determined air of a brave man,\\nresolved to do some deed of note he went into the\\nyard adjoining his cottage, where there were some thin,\\nthoughtful, canting cocks, and serious, low-church-\\nlooking hens, respectfully listening, and chickens of\\ntender years so well brought up, as scarcely to betray\\nin their conduct, the careless levity of youth. The\\nPro-consul stood for a moment quite calm collecting\\nhis strength then suddenly he rushed into the midst\\nof the congregation, and began to deal death, and\\ndestruction on all sides he spared neither sex, nor\\nage the dead and dying were immediately removed\\nfrom the field of slaughter, and in less than an hour, I\\nthink, they were brought to the table, deeply buried in\\nmounds of snowy rice.\\nMy host was in all respects a fine, generous fellow\\nI could not bear the idea of impoverishing him by my\\nvisit, and I consulted my faithful Mysseri, who not\\nonly assured me that I might safely offer money to the\\nPro-consul, but recommended that I should give no\\nmore to him, than to the others, meaning any other\\npeasant I felt, however, that there was something\\nabout the man, besides the flag, and the cap, which\\nmade me shrink from offering coin, and as I mounted\\nmy horse on departing, I gave him the only thing fit\\nfor a present which I happened to have with me, a", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "CYPRUS\\n67\\nrather handsome clasp-dagger, which I had brought\\nfrom Vienna the poor fellow was ineffably grateful,\\nand I had some difficulty in tearing myself from out of\\nthe reach of his thanks at last I gave him what I\\nsupposed to be the last farewell, and rode on, but I had\\nnot gained more than about a hundred yards, when my\\nhost came bounding and shouting after me, with a\\ngoafs milk cheese in his hand which he implored me\\nto accept In old times the shepherd of Theocritus,\\nor, (or to speak less dishonestly,) the shepherd of the\\nPoetas Grseci, sung his best song I in this latter\\nage presented my best dagger, and both of us received\\nthe same rustic reward.\\nIt had been known that I should return to Limesol,\\nand when I arrived there, I found that a noble old\\nGreek had been hospitably plotting to have me for his\\nguest I willingly accepted his offer. The day of my\\narrival happened to be the birthday of my host, and\\nin consequence of this there was a constant influx of\\nvisitors who came to offer their congratulations a\\nfew of these were men, but most of them were young,\\ngraceful girls almost all of them went through the\\nceremony with the utmost precision, and formality\\neach in succession spoke her blessing, in the tone of\\na person repeating a set formula, then deferentially\\naccepted the invitation to sit partook of the proffered\\nsweetmeats, and the cold, glittering water, remained\\nfor a few minutes either in silence, or engaged in very\\nthin conversation, then arose, delivered a second\\nbenediction followed by an elaborate farewell, and\\ndeparted.\\nThe bewitching power attributed at this day to the\\nwomen of Cyprus, is curious in connection with the\\nworship of the sweet goddess who called their isle her\\nown the Cypriote is not, I think, nearly so beautiful\\nin face as the Ionian queens of Izmir, but she is tall,\\nand slightly formed there is a high-souled meaning\\nand expression a seeming consciousness of gentle em-\\npire that speaks in the wavy lines of the shoulder, and", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "68\\nEOTHEN\\nwinds itself like Cytherea s own cestus around the\\nslender waist then the richly abounding hair (not\\nenviously gathered together under the head-dress)\\ndescends the neck, and passes the waist in sumptuous\\nbraids of all other women with Grecian blood in\\ntheir veins, the costume is graciously beautiful, but\\nthese, the maidens of Limesol their robes are more\\ngently, more sweetly imagined, and fall like Julia s\\nCashmere in soft, luxurious folds. The common voice\\nof the Levant allows that in face the women of Cyprus\\nare less beautiful than their brilliant sisters of Smyrna,\\nand yet, says the Greek, he may trust himself to one\\nand all of the bright cities of the ALgean, and may yet\\nweigh anchor with a heart entire, but that so surely as\\nhe ventures upon the enchanted Isle of Cyprus, so\\nsurely will he know the rapture, or the bitterness of\\nLove. The charm, they say, owes its power to\\nthat which the people call the astonishing politics\\n(TroXirtKn) of the women, meaning, I fancy, their tact,\\nand their witching ways the word, however, plainly\\nfails to express one half of that which the speakers\\nwould say I have smiled to hear the Greek, with all\\nhis plenteousness of fancy, and all the wealth of his\\ngenerous language, yet vainly struggling to describe\\nthe ineffable spell which the Parisians dispose of in\\ntheir own smart way, by a summary Je ne scai\\nquoi.\\nI went to Larnecca, the chief city of the isle, and\\nover the water at last to Beyrout.\\nThe writer takes leave to suggest that none should\\nattempt to read the following account of the late Lady\\nHester Stanhope, except those who may already chance to\\nfeel an interest in the personage to whom it relates. The\\nchapter (which has been written, and printed for the reasons\\nmentioned in the preface) is chiefly filled with the detailed\\nconversation, or rather discourse of a highly eccentric gentle-\\nwoman.", "height": "4025", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VIII\\nLADY HESTER STANHOPE\\nOEYROUT on its land side is hemmed in by the\\nJD Druses, who occupy all the neighbouring highlands.\\nOften enough I saw the ghostly images of the women\\nwith their exalted horns stalking through the streets,\\nand I saw too in travelling the affrighted groups of\\nthe mountaineers as they fled before me, under the fear\\nthat my party might be a company of Income-tax\\ncommissioners, or a press-gang enforcing the conscrip-\\ntion for Mehemet Ali, but nearly all my knowledge of\\nthe people, except in regard of their mere costume,\\nand outward appearance, is drawn from books, and\\ndespatches, to which I have the honour to refer you.\\nI received hospitable welcome at Beyrout, from the\\nEuropeans, as well as from the Syrian Christians, and\\nI soon discovered that their standing topic of interest\\nwas the Lady Hester Stanhope, who lived in an old\\nconvent on the Lebanon range, at the distance of\\nabout a day s journey from the town. The Lady s\\nhabit of refusing to see Europeans added the charm\\nof mystery to a character, which, even without that aid,\\nwas sufficiently distinguished to command attention.\\nMany years of Lady Hester s early womanhood had\\nbeen passed with Lady Chatham at Burton Pynsent,\\nand during that inglorious period of the heroine s life,\\nher commanding character, and (as they would have\\ncalled it, in the language of those days,) her ^con-\\ndescending kindness towards my mother s family,\\nhad increased in them those strong feelings of respect,", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "70\\nEOTHEN\\nand attachment, which her rank, and station alone\\nwould have easily won from people of the middle class.\\nYou may suppose how deeply the quiet women in\\nSomersetshire must have been interested, when they\\nslowly learned by vague, and uncertain tidings that\\nthe intrepid girl who had been used to break their\\nvicious horses for them, was reigning in sovereignty\\nover the wandering tribes of Western Asia I know\\nthat her name was made almost as familiar to me in\\nmy childhood as the name of Robinson Crusoe both\\nwere associated with the spirit of adventure, but whilst\\nthe imagined life of the cast-away manner never failed\\nto seem glaringly real, the true story of the English-\\nwoman ruling over Arabs always sounded to me like\\nfable. I never had heard, nor indeed, I believe, had\\nthe rest of the world ever heard anything like a certain\\naccount of the Heroine s adventures all I knew was,\\nthat in one of the drawers which were the delight of\\nmy childhood, along with attar of roses, and fragrant\\nwonders from Hindostan, there were letters carefully\\ntreasured, and trifling presents which I was taught to\\nthink valuable because they had come from the Queen\\nof the Desert, who dwelt in tents, and reigned over\\nwandering Arabs.\\nThe subject, however, died away, and from the end-\\ning of my childhood up to the period of my arrival in\\nthe Levant, I had seldom even heard a mentioning of\\nthe Lady Hester Stanhope, but now wherever I went,\\nI was met with the name so familiar in sound, and yet\\nso full of mystery from the vague, fairy-tale sort of\\nidea which it brought to my mind I heard it too con-\\nnected with fresh wonders, for it was said that the\\nwoman was now acknowledged as an inspired being by\\nthe people of the Mountains, and it was even hinted\\nwith horror that she claimed to be more than a prophet.\\nI felt at once that my mother would be sadly sorry\\nto hear that I had been w i thin a day s ride of her early\\nfriend without offering to see her, and I therefore des-\\npatched a letter to the Recluse, mentioning the maiden", "height": "4074", "width": "2345", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 71\\nname of my mother (whose marriage was subsequent\\nto Lady Hester s departure) and saying that if there\\nexisted on the part of her Ladyship any wish to hear of\\nher old Somersetshire acquaintance, I should make a\\npoint of visiting her. My letter was sent by a foot\\nmessenger who was to take an unlimited time for his\\njourney, so that it was not, I think, until either the\\nthird or the fourth day that the answer arrived. A\\ncouple of horsemen covered with mud suddenly dashed\\ninto the little court of the Locanda, in which I was\\nstaying, bearing themselves as ostentatiously, as though\\nthey were carrying a cartel from the Devil to the Angel\\nMichael one of these (the other being his attendant)\\nwas an Italian by birth, (though now completely\\norientalized) who lived in my Lady s establishment as\\na Doctor nominally, but practically as an upper servant\\nhe presented me a very kind, and appropriate letter of\\ninvitation.\\nIt happened that I was rather unwell at this time, so\\nthat I named a more distant day for my visit than I\\nshould otherwise have done, and after all, I did not\\nstart at the time fixed whilst still remaining at Beyrout\\nI received this letter, which certainly betrays no\\nsymptom of the pretensions to Divine power, which\\nwere popularly attributed to the writer\\nSir, I hope I shall be disappointed in seeing you on\\nWednesday, for the late rains have rendered the river Damoor\\nif not dangerous, at least very unpleasant to pass for a person\\nwho has been lately indisposed, for if the animal swims, you\\nwould be immerged in the waters. The weather will prob-\\nably change after the 21st of the moon, and after a couple of\\ndays the roads, and the river will be passable, therefore I\\nshall expect you either Saturday or Monday.\\nIt will be a great satisfaction to me to have an oppor-\\ntunity of inquiring after your mother, who was a sweet, lovely\\ngirl when I knew her.\\nBelieve me, Sir,\\nYours sincerely,\\nHester Lucy Stanhope.", "height": "4049", "width": "2350", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nEarly one morning I started from Beyrout. There\\nare no regularly established relays of horses in Syria,\\nat least not in the line which I took, and you therefore\\nhire your cattle for the whole journey, or at all events\\nfor your journey to some large town. Under these\\ncircumstances you have no occasion for a Tatar,\\n(whose principal utility consists in his power to compel\\nthe supply of horses.) In other respects the mode of\\ntravelling through Syria differs very little from that\\nwhich I have described as prevailing in Turkey. I\\nhired my horses, and mules (for I had some of both)\\nfor the whole of the journey from Beyrout to Jeru-\\nsalem the owner of the beasts (who had a couple of\\nfellows under him) was the most dignified member of\\nmy party he was, indeed, *a magnificent old man, and\\nwas called Shereef, or holy, a title of honour, which,\\nwith the privilege of bearing the green turban, he well\\ndeserved, not only from the blood of the Prophet which\\nglowed in his veins, but from the well-known sanctity\\nof his life, and the length of his blessed beard.\\nMysseri, of course, still travelled with me, but the\\nArabic was not one of the seven languages which he\\nspoke so perfectly, and I was, therefore, obliged to hire\\nanother interpreter. I had no difficulty in finding a\\nproper man for the purpose one Demetrius, or as\\nhe was always called, Dthemetri, a native of Zante,\\nwho had been tossed about by fortune in all directions.\\nHe spoke the Arabic very well, and communicated\\nwith me in Italian. The man was a very zealous mem-\\nber of the Greek church. He had been a tailor. He\\nwas as ugly as the devil, having a thoroughly Tatar\\ncountenance, which expressed the agony of his body,\\nor mind as the case might be, in the most ludicrous\\nmanner imaginable he embellished the natural cari-\\ncature of his person, by suspending about his neck,\\nand shoulders, and waist, quantities of little bundles,\\nand parcels, which he thought too valuable to be en-\\ntrusted to the jerking of pack-saddles. The mule which\\nfell to his lot on this journey, every now and then, for-", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 73\\ngetting that his rider was a saint, and remembering\\nthat he was a tailor, took a quiet roll upon the ground,\\nand stretched his limbs calmly, and lazily, as if he were\\npreparing to hear a long sermon. Dthemetri never\\ngot seriously hurt, but the subversion, and dislocation\\nof his bundles, made him for the moment a sad spec-\\ntacle of ruin, and when he regained his legs, his wrath\\nwith the mule became very amusing. He always ad-\\ndressed the beast in language which implied, that he,\\nas a Christian and saint, had been personally insulted\\nand oppressed by a Mahometan mule. Dthemetri,\\nhowever, on the whole, proved to be a most able, and\\ncapital servant I suspected him of now and then lead-\\ning me out of my way, in order that he might have an\\nopportunity of visiting the shrine of a saint, and on one\\noccasion, as you will see by and by, he was induced,\\nby religious motives, to commit a gross breach of duty\\nbut putting these pious faults out of the question, (and\\nthey were faults of the right side,) he was always faith-\\nful, and true to me.\\nI left Saide (the Sidon of ancient times,) on my right,\\nand about an hour, I think, before sunset, began to\\nascend one of the many low hills of Lebanon. On the\\nsummit before me, was a broad, grey mass of irregular\\nbuilding, which from its position, as well as from the\\ngloomy blankness of its walls, gave the idea of a\\nneglected fortress it had, in fact, been a convent of\\ngreat size, and like most of the religious houses in this\\npart of the world, had been made strong enough for\\nopposing an inert resistance to any mere casual band\\nof assailants who might be unprovided with regular\\nmeans of attack this was the dwelling-place of the\\nChatham s fiery grand-daughter.\\nThe aspect of the first court which I entered was\\nsuch as to keep one in the idea of having to do with a\\nfortress, rather than a mere peaceable dwelling-place.\\nA number of fierce-looking, and ill- clad Albanian sol-\\ndiers were hanging about the place, and striving to bear\\nthe curse of Tranquillity, as well as they could two or", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "74\\nEOTHEN\\nthree of them, I think, were smoking their tchibouques,\\nbut the rest of them were lying torpidly upon the flat\\nstones, like the bodies of departed brigands. I rode\\non to an inner part of the building, and at last, quitting\\nmy horses, was conducted through a door-way which\\nled me at once from an open court into an apartment\\non the ground floor. As I entered, an oriental figure\\nin male costume approached me from the farther end\\nof the room with many, and profound bows, but the\\ngrowing shades of evening, as well as my near-sighted-\\nness, prevented me from distinguishing the features\\nof the personage who was receiving me with this solemn\\nwelcome. I had always, however, understood that\\nLady Hester Stanhope wore the male attire, and I\\nbegan to utter in English the common civilities which\\nseemed to be proper on the commencement of a visit\\nby an uninspired mortal to a renowned Prophetess,\\nbut the figure which I addressed only bowed so much\\nthe more, prostrating itself almost to the ground, but\\nspeaking to me never a word I feebly strived not to\\nbe outdone in gestures of respect, but presently my\\nbowing opponent saw the error under which I was act-\\ning, and suddenly convinced me, that at all events, I\\nwas not yet in the presence of a superhuman being, by\\ndeclaring that he was not Miladi, but was, in fact,\\nnothing more or less god-like than the poor Doctor,\\nwho had brought his Mistress s letters to Beyrout.\\nHer Ladyship, in the right spirit of hospitality, now\\nsent, and commanded me to repose for a while after\\nthe fatigues of my journey, and to dine.\\nThe cuisine was of the Oriental kind, which is highly\\nartificial, and I thought it very good. I rejoiced, too, in\\nthe wine of the Lebanon.\\nSoon after the ending of the dinner the Doctor\\narrived with Miladi s compliments, and an intimation\\nthat she would be happy to receive me if I were so\\ndisposed. It had now grown dark, and the rain was\\nfalling heavily, so that I got rather wet in following my\\nguide through the open courts which I had to pass, in", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 75\\norder to reach the presence chamber. At last I was\\nushered into a small apartment, which was protected\\nfrom the drafts of air passing through the door- way by\\na folding screen passing this, I came alongside of a\\ncommon European sofa, where sat the Lady Prophetess.\\nShe rose from her seat very formally spoke to me a\\nfew words of welcome, pointed to a chair which was\\nplaced exactly opposite to her sofa, at a couple of yards\\ndistance, and remained standing up to the full of her\\nmajestic height, perfectly still, and motionless, until I\\nhad taken my appointed place she then resumed her\\nseat, not packing herself up according to the mode of\\nthe Orientals, but allowing her feet to rest on the floor,\\nor the footstool at the moment of seating herself she\\ncovered her lap with a mass of loose, white drapery,\\nwhich she held in her hand. It occurred to me at the\\ntime, that she did this in order to avoid the awkward-\\nness of sitting in manifest trowsers under the eye of an\\nEuropean, but I can hardly fancy now, that with her\\nwilful nature, she would have brooked such a compro-\\nmise as this.\\nThe woman before me had exactly the person of a\\nProphetess not, indeed, of the divine Sibyl imagined\\nby Domenichino, so sweetly distracted betwixt Love,\\nand Mystery, but of a good business-like, practical,\\nProphetess, long used to the exercise of her sacred\\ncalling. I have been told by those who knew Lady-\\nHester Stanhope in her youth, that any notion of a re-\\nsemblance betwixt her, and the great Chatham, must\\nhave been fanciful, but at the time of my seeing her,\\nthe large commanding features of the gaunt woman,\\nthen sixty years old or more, certainly reminded me of\\nthe Statesman that lay dying 1 in the House of Lords,\\naccording to Copley s picture her face was of the most\\nastonishing whiteness 2 she wore a very large turban,\\n1 Historically il fainting the death did not occur until long\\nafterwards.\\n2 I am told that in youth she was exceedingly sallow,", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "76\\nEOTHEN\\nwhich seemed to be of pale cashmere shawls, so dis-\\nposed as to conceal the hair her dress, from the chin\\ndown to the point at which it was concealed by the\\ndrapery which she held over her lap, was a mass of\\nwhite linen loosely folding an ecclesiastical sort of\\naffair more like a surplice than any of those blessed\\ncreations which our souls love under the names of\\ndress, and frock, and boddice, and collar,\\nand habit-shirt, and sweet chemisette.\\nSuch was the outward seeming of the personag e that\\nsat before me, and indeed she was almost bound by the\\nfame of her actual achievements, as well as by her\\nsublime pretensions, to look a little differently from\\nthe rest of woman-kind. There had been something\\nof grandeur in her career after the death of Lady\\nChatham, which happened in 1803, she lived under the\\nroof of her uncle, the second Pitt, and when he resumed\\nthe Government in 1804, she became the dispenser of\\nmuch patronage, and sole Secretary of State, for the\\ndepartment of Treasury banquets. Not having seen\\nthe Lady until late in her life, when she was fired with\\nspiritual ambition, I can hardly fancy that she could\\nhave performed her political duties in the saloons of\\nthe Minister with much of feminine sweetness, and\\npatience I am told, however, that she managed\\nmatters very well indeed perhaps it was better for the\\nlofty-minded leader of the House, to have his reception-\\nrooms guarded by this stately creature, than by a merely\\nclever, and managing woman it was fitting that the\\nwholesome awe with which he filled the minds of the\\ncountry gentlemen, should be aggravated by the pre-\\nsence of his majestic niece. But the end was approach-\\ning the sun of Austerlitz shewed the Czar madly sliding\\nhis splendid army like a weaver s shuttle, from his right\\nhand to his left, under the very eyes the deep, gray,\\nwatchful eyes of Napoleon before night came, the\\ncoalition was a vain thing meet for History, and the\\nheart of its great author was crushed with grief, when\\nthe terrible tidings came to his ears. In the bitterness", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 77\\nof his despair, he cried out to his niece, and bid her\\nRoll up the Map of Europe there was a little\\nmore of suffering, and at last, with his swollen tongue\\nstill muttering something for England, he died by the\\nnoblest of all sorrows.\\nLady Hester meeting the calamity in her own fierce\\nway, seems to have scorned the poor island that had\\nnot enough of God s grace, to keep the heaven-sent\\nminister alive. I can hardly tell why it should be, but\\nthere is a longing for the East, very commonly felt by\\nproud-hearted people, when goaded by sorrow. Lady\\nHester Stanhope obeyed this impulse for some time,\\nI believe, she was at Constantinople, where her mag-\\nnificence, and near alliance to the late minister, gained\\nher great influence. Afterwards she passed into Syria.\\nThe people of that country, excited by the achieve-\\nments of Sir Sydney Smith, had begun to imagine the\\npossibility of their land being occupied by the English,\\nand many of them looked upon Lady Hester as a\\nPrincess who came to prepare the way for the expected\\nconquest.** I don t know it from her own lips, or indeed\\nfrom any certain authority, but I have been told that\\nshe began her connection with the Bedouins by making\\na large present of money, (^500, it was said, immense\\nin piastres) to the Sheik whose authority was recognized\\nin that part of the Desert, which lies between Damascus\\nand Palmyra. The prestige created by the rumours\\nof her high, and undefined rank, as well as of her\\nwealth, and corresponding magnificence, was well sus-\\ntained by her imperious character, and her dauntless\\nbravery. Her influence increased. I never heard any\\nthing satisfactory as to the real extent, or duration of\\nher sway, but it seemed that for a time at least, she\\ncertainly exercised something like sovereignty amongst\\nthe wandering tribes. 1 And now that her earthly king-\\n1 [This was my impression at the time of writing the above\\npassage an impression created by the popular and uncontra-\\ndicted accounts of the matter, as well as by the tenor of Lady", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "78\\nEOTHEN\\ndom had passed away, she strove for spiritual power,\\nand impiously dared, as it was said, to boast some\\nmystic union with the very God of very God\\nA couple of black slave girls came at a signal, and\\nsupplied their mistress as well as myself, with lighted\\ntchibouques, and coffee.\\nThe custom of the East sanctions, and almost com-\\nmands some moments of silence whilst you are inhaling\\nthe first few breaths of the fragrant pipe the pause\\nwas broken, I think, by my Lady, who addressed to\\nme some inquiries respecting my mother, and particu-\\nlarly as to her marriage but before I had communicated\\nany great amount of family facts, the spirit of the\\nProphetess kindled within her, and presently, (though\\nwith all the skill of a woman of the world,) she shuffled\\naway the subject of poor, dear Somersetshire, and\\nbounded onward into loftier spheres of thought.\\nMy old acquaintance with some of the twelve,\\nenabled me to bear my part, (of course a very humble\\none,) in a conversation relative to occult science.\\nMilnes once spread a report, that every gang of gipsies\\nwas found upon inquiry to have come last from a place\\nto the westward, and to be about to make the next\\nmove in an eastern direction either therefore they\\nwere to be all gathered together towards the rising of\\nthe sun, by the mysterious finger of Providence, or\\nelse they were to revolve round the globe for ever, and\\never, and ever both of these suppositions were highly\\ngratifying, because they were both marvellous, and\\nthough the story on which they were founded plainly\\nsprung from the inventive brain of a poet, no one had\\never been so odiously statistical as to attempt a contra-\\ndiction of it. I now mentioned the story as a report\\nto Lady Hester Stanhope, and asked her if it were\\nHester s conversation. I have now some reason to think that I\\nwas deceived, and that her sway in the desert was much more\\nlimited than 1 had supposed. She seems to have had from the\\nBedouins a fair five-hundred-pounds worth of respect, and not.\\nmuch more. Note in Third EditonJ]", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 79\\ntrue I could not have touched upon any imaginable\\nsubject more deeply interesting to my hearer more\\nclosely akin to her habitual train of thinking she\\nimmediately threw off all the restraint belonging to an\\ninterview with a stranger and when she had received\\na few more similar proofs of my aptness for the mar-\\nvellous, she went so far as to say, that she would adopt\\nme as her eleve in occult science.\\nFor hours, and hours, this wondrous white woman\\npoured forth her speech, for the most part concerning\\nsacred, and profane mysteries but every now and\\nthen, she would stay her lofty flight, and swoop down\\nupon the world again whenever this happened, I was\\ninterested in her conversation.\\nShe adverted more than once to the period of her\\nlost sway amongst the Arabs, and mentioned some of\\nthe circumstances which aided her in obtaining in-\\nfluence with the wandering tribes. The Bedouin, so\\noften engaged in irregular warfare, strains his eyes to\\nthe horizon in search of a coming enemy just as\\nhabitually as the sailor keeps his bright look out\\nfor a strange sail. In the absence of telescopes, a far\\nreaching sight is highly valued, and Lady Hester pos-\\nsessed this quality to an extraordirary degree. She\\ntold me that on one occasion, when there was good\\nreason to expect a hostile attack, great excitement was\\nfelt in the camp by the report of a far-seeing Arab, who\\ndeclared that he could just distinguish some moving\\nobjects upon the very furthest point within the reach\\nof his eyes Lady Hester was consulted, and she in-\\nstantly assured her comrades in arms, that there were\\nindeed a number of horses within sight, but that they\\nwere without riders the assertion proved to be correct,\\nand from that time forth, her superiority over all others\\nin respect of far sight remained undisputed.\\nLady Hester related to me this other anecdote of her\\nArab life it was when the heroic qualities of the\\nEnglishwoman were just beginning to be felt amongst\\nthe people of the desert, that she was marching one", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "V\\n80 EOTHEN\\nday along with the forces of the tribe, to which she\\nhad allied herself. She perceived that preparations for\\nan engagement were going on, and upon her making\\ninquiry as to the cause, the Sheik at first affected\\nmystery, and concealment, but at last confessed that\\nwar had been declared against his tribe on account of\\nits alliance with the English Princess, and that they\\nwere now unfortunately about to be attacked by a very\\nsuperior force he made it appear that Lady Hester\\nwas the sole cause of hostility betwixt his tribe, and\\nthe impending enemy, and that his sacred duty of pro-\\ntecting the Englishwoman whom he had admitted as\\nhis guest, was the only obstacle which prevented an\\namicable arrangement of the dispute. The Sheik\\nhinted that his tribe was likely to sustain an almost\\noverwhelming blow, but at the same time declared, that\\nno fear of the consequences, however terrible to him,\\nand his whole people, should induce him to dream of\\nabandoning his illustrious guest. The Heroine instantly\\ntook her part it was not for her to be a source of\\ndanger to her friends, but rather to her enemies, so\\nshe resolved to turn away from the people, and trust\\nfor help to none, save only her haughty self. The\\nSheiks affected to dissuade her from so rash a course,\\nand fairly told her that although they (having been\\nfreed from her presence) would be able to make good\\nterms for themselves, yet that there were no means of\\nallaying the hostility felt towards her, and that the\\nwhole face of the desert would be swept by the horse-\\nmen of her enemies so carefully, as to make her escape\\ninto other districts almost impossible. The brave\\nwoman was not to be moved by terrors of this kind,\\nand bidding farewell to the tribe which had honoured,\\nand protected her, she turned her horse s head, and\\nrode straight away from them, without friend, or follower.\\nHours had elapsed, and for some time she had been\\nalone in the centre of the round horizon, when her quick\\neye perceived some horsemen in the distance. The\\nparty came nearer, and nearer soon it was plain that", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 81\\nthey were making towards her, and presently some\\nhundreds of Bedouins, fully armed, galloped up to her,\\nferociously shouting, and apparently intending to take\\nher life at the instant with their pointed spears. Her\\nface at the time was covered with the yashmack accord-\\ning to Eastern usage, but at the moment when the\\nforemost of the horsemen had all but reached her with\\ntheir spears, she stood up in her stirrups withdrew\\nthe yashmack that veiled the terrors of her counten-\\nance waved her arm slowly and disdainfully, and\\ncried out with a loud voice Avaunt 1 The horsemen\\nrecoiled from her glance, but not in terror. The\\nthreatening yells of the assailants were suddenly\\nchanged for loud shouts of joy, and admiration, at the\\nbravery of the stately English woman, and festive gun\\nshots were fired on all sides around her honoured head.\\nThe truth was, that the party belonged to the tribe with\\nwhich she had allied herself, and that the threatened\\nattack, as well as the pretended apprehension of an\\nengagement, had been contrived for the mere purpose\\nof testing her courage. The day ended in a great\\nfeast prepared to do honour to the heroine, and from\\nthat time her power over the minds of the people grew\\nrapidly. Lady Hester related this story with great\\nspirit, and I recollect that she put up her yashmack for\\na moment, in order to give me a better idea of the effect\\nwhich she produced by suddenly revealing the awful-\\nness of her countenance.\\nWith respect to her then present mode of life, Lady\\nHester informed me, that for her sin, she had sub-\\njected herself during many years to severe penance,\\nand that her self denial had not been without its\\nreward. Vain and false, said she, is all the pre-\\ntended knowledge of the Europeans their Doctors\\nwill tell you that the drinking of milk gives yellowness\\n1 She spoke it, I dare say in English the words would not\\nbe the less effective for being spoken in an unknown tongue.\\nLady Hester, I believe, never learnt to speak the Arabic with a\\nperfect accent.\\nG", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "82\\nEOTHEN\\nto the complexion milk is my only food, and you see\\nif my face be not white. Her abstinence from food\\nintellectual, was carried as far as her physical fasting\\nshe never, she said, looked upon a book, nor a news-\\npaper, but trusted alone to the stars for her sublime\\nknowledge she usually passed the nights in com-\\nmuning with these heavenly teachers, and lay at rest\\nduring the day-time. She spoke with great contempt\\nof the frivolity, and benighted ignorance of the modern\\nEuropeans, and mentioned in proof of this, that they\\nwere not only untaught in astrology, but were unac-\\nquainted with the common, and every day phenomena\\nproduced by magic art she spoke as if she would\\nmake me understand that all sorcerous spells were\\ncompletely at her command, but that the exercise of\\nsuch powers would be derogatory to her high rank in\\nthe heavenly kingdom. She said, that the spell by\\nwhich the face of an absent person is thrown upon a\\nmirror, was within the reach of the humblest, and most\\ncontemptible magicians, but that the practice of such\\nlike arts was unholy, as well as vulgar.\\nWe spoke of the bending twig by which it is said,\\nthat precious metals may be discovered. In relation\\nto this, the Prophetess told me a story rather against\\nherself, and inconsistent with the notion of her being\\nperfect in her science, but I think that she mentioned\\nthe facts as having happened before the time at which\\nshe attained to the great spiritual authority which she\\nnow arrogated she told me that vast treasures were\\nknown to exist in a situation which she mentioned,\\nif I rightly remember, as being near Suez that\\nNapoleon, profanely brave, thrust his arm into the\\ncave, containing the coveted gold, and that instantly\\nhis flesh became palsied, but the youthful hero, (for\\nshe said he was great in his generation), was not to\\nbe thus daunted he fell back characteristically upon\\nhis brazen resources, and ordered up his artillery but\\nman could not strive with demons, and Napoleon was\\nfoiled. In years after came Ibrahim Pasha, with", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 83\\nheavy guns, and wicked spells to-boot, but the infernal\\nguardians of the treasure were too strong for him. It\\nwas after this that Lady Hester passed by the spot,\\nand she described, with animated gesture, the force,\\nand energy with which the divining twig had suddenly\\nleaped in her hands she ordered excavations, and no\\ndemons opposed her enterprise the vast chest in\\nwhich the treasure had been deposited was at length\\ndiscovered, but lo and behold, it was full of pebbles\\nShe said, however, that the times were approaching,\\nin which the hidden treasures of the earth, would\\nbecome available to those who had true knowledge.\\nSpeaking of Ibrahim Pasha, Lady Hester said, that\\nhe was a bold, bad man, and was possessed of some of\\nthose common, and wicked magical arts, upon which\\nshe looked down with so much contempt she said, for\\ninstance, that Ibrahim s life was charmed against balls,\\nand steel, and that after a battle, he loosened the folds\\nof his shawl, and shook out the bullets like dust.\\nIt seems that the St. Simonians once made over-\\ntures to Lady Hester she told me that the Pere\\nEnfantin (the chief of the sect) had sent her a service\\nof plate, but that she had declined to receive it she\\ndelivered a prediction as to the probability of the St.\\nSimonians finding the mystic mother, and this she\\ndid in a way which would amuse you unfortunately\\nI am not at liberty to mention this part of the woman s\\nprophecies why, I cannot tell, but so it is, that she\\nbound me to eternal secrecy.\\nLady Hester told me that since her residence at\\nDjoun, she had been attacked by a terrible illness,\\nwhich rendered her for a long time perfectly helpless\\nall her attendants fled, and left her to perish. Whilst\\nshe lay thus alone, and quite unable to rise, robbers\\ncame, and carried away her property 1 she told me,\\n1 The proceedings thus described to me, by Lady Hester, as\\nhaving taken place during her illness, were afterwards re-enacted\\nat the time of her death. Since I wrote the words to which this\\nnote is appended, I received from an English traveller [Eliot", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "8 4\\nEOTHEN\\nthat they actually unroofed a great part of the building,\\nand employed engines with pullies, for the purpose of\\nhoisting out such of her valuables as were too bulky\\nto pass through doors. It would seem, that before\\nthis catastrophe, Lady Hester had been rich in the\\npossession of Eastern luxuries, for she told me that\\nWar burton] this interesting account of the heroine s death, or\\nrather of the circumstances attending the discovery of the event\\nthe letter is dated Djoun, (Lady Hester s late residence,) and\\ncontains the following passages I reached this strange hermi-\\ntage last night, and though time, and some naval officers are\\nurging my departure, I am too glad to find myself in a place\\nwhereof we have often discoursed, to allow the opportunity of\\nwriting to you to pass by. How beautiful must this convent-\\npalace have been when you saw it, its strange mistress doing its\\nhospitalities, and exercising her self- won regal power A friend\\nof has a letter from the Sultan to her, beginning 1 Cousin.\\nShe annihilated a village for disobedience, and burned a moun-\\ntain chalet with all its inhabitants, for the murder of a traveller.\\nShe held on gallantly to the last. Moore, our Consul at\\nBeyroot, heard she was ill, and rode over the mountains accom-\\npanied by a missionary, to visit her. A profound silence was\\nover all the palace no one met them they lighted their own\\nlamps in the outer court, and passed unquestioned through court\\nand gallery, till they came to where she lay a corpse was the\\nonly inhabitant of Djoun, and the isolation from her kind which\\nshe so long sought, was indeed completed. That morning\\nthirty-seven servants had watched every motion of her eye that\\nspell once darkened by death, every one fled with the plunder\\nnot a single thing was left in the room where she lay dead, ex-\\ncept upon her person no one had ventured to touch that, and\\neven in death she seemed able to protect herself. At midnight\\nthe missionary carried her out to a favourite resort of hers in the\\ngarden, and there they buried her. The buildings are fast\\nfalling into decay.\\n[In the third and later editions the author omits Warburton s\\nletter and substitutes the following I must now give up the\\nborrowed ornament, and omit my extract from my friend s letter,\\nfor the rightful owner has reprinted it in The Crescent and the\\nCross. I know what a sacrifice I am making, for in noticing\\nthe first edition of this book, reviewers turned aside from the\\ntext to the note, and remarked upon the interesting information\\nwhich Warburton s letter contained, and the descriptive force\\nwith which it was written.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 85\\nwhen the chiefs of the Ottoman force took refuge with\\nher after the fall of Acre, they brought their wives\\nalso in great numbers to all of these Lady Hester,\\nas she said, presented magnificent dresses, but her\\ngenerosity occasioned strife only instead of gratitude,\\nfor every woman who fancied her present less splendid\\nthan that of another, with equal or less pretension, be-\\ncame absolutely furious all these audacious guests\\nhad now been got rid of, but the Albanian soldiers\\nwho had taken refuge with Lady Hester at the same\\ntime, still remained under her protection.\\nIn truth, this half-ruined convent, guarded by the\\nproud heart of an English gentlewoman, was the only\\nspot throughout all Syria and Palestine in which the\\nwill of Mehemet Ali, and his fierce Lieutenant was not\\nthe law. More than once had the Pasha of Egypt\\ncommanded that Ibrahim should have the Albanians\\ndelivered up to him, but this white woman of the\\nmountain (grown classical, not by books, but by very\\npride,) answered only with a disdainful invitation to\\ncome and take them. Whether it was that Ibrahim\\nwas acted upon by any superstitious dread of inter-\\nfering with the Prophetess, (a notion not at all incom-\\npatible with his character as an able Oriental com-\\nmander,) or that he feared the ridicule of putting\\nhimself in collision with a gentlewoman, he certainly\\nnever ventured to attack the sanctuary, and so long as\\nthe Chatham s grand-daughter breathed a breath of life,\\nthere was always this one hillock, and that too, in the\\nmidst of a most populous district, which stood out,\\nand kept its freedom. Mehemet Ali used to say, I am\\ntold, that the English woman had given him more\\ntrouble than all the insurgent people of Syria and\\nPalestine.\\nThe Prophetess announced to me that we were\\nupon the eve of a stupendous convulsion, which would\\ndestroy the then recognized value of all property upon\\nearth, and declaring that those only who should be in\\nthe East at the time of the great change, could hope", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "86\\nEOTHEN\\nfor greatness in the new life that was now close at\\nhand, she advised me, whilst there was yet time, to\\ndispose of my property in fragile England, and gain a\\nstation in Asia she told me that, after leaving her, I\\nshould go into Egypt, but that in a little while I should\\nreturn into Syria. I secretly smiled at this last pro-\\nphecy as a bad shot, for I had fully determined,\\nafter visiting the pyramids to take ship from Alex-\\nandria for Greece, But men struggle vainly in the\\nmeshes of their Destiny the unbelieved Cassandra\\nwas right after all the Plague came, and the necessity\\nof avoiding the Quarantine to which I should have\\nbeen subjected, if I had sailed from Alexandria, forced\\nme to alter my route I went down into Egypt, and\\nstayed there for a time, and then crossed the Desert\\nonce more, and came back to the mountains of the\\nLebanon exactly as the Prophetess had foretold.\\nLady Hester talked to me long, and earnestly on the\\nsubject of Religion, announcing that the Messiah was\\nyet to come she strived to impress me with the vanity\\nand the falseness of all European creeds, as well as\\nwith a sense of her own spiritual greatness through-\\nout her conversation upon these high topics, she skil-\\nfully insinuated, without actually asserting her heavenly\\nrank.\\nAmongst other much more marvellous powers, the\\nLady claimed to have one which most women I fancy,\\npossess, namely, that of reading men s characters in their\\nfaces she examined the line of my features very atten-\\ntively,^ and told me the result, which, however, I mean\\nto keep hidden.\\nOne great subject of discourse was that of race,\\nupon which she was very diffuse, and yet rather mys-\\nterious she set great value upon the ancient French\\n(not Norman blood, for that she vilified), but did not\\nat all appreciate that which we call in this country, an\\nold family. 1 She had a vast idea of the Cornish miners,\\nIn a letter which I afterwards received from Lady Hester,\\nshe mentioned incidentally Lord Hardwicke, and said that he", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 87\\non account of their race, and said, if she chose, she\\ncould give me the means of rousing them to the most\\ntremendous enthusiasm.\\nSuch are the topics on which the Lady mainly con-\\nversed, but very often she would descend to more\\nworldly chat, and then she was no longer the prophetess,\\nbut the sort of woman that you sometimes see, I am\\ntold, in London drawing-rooms, cool unsparing of\\nenemies full of audacious fun, and saying the down-\\nright things that the sheepish society around her is\\nafraid to utter. I am told that Lady Hester was in her\\nyouth a capital mimic, and she shewed me that not all\\nthe queenly dullness to which she had condemned her-\\nself, not all her fasting, and solitude, had destroyed\\nthis terrible power. The first whom she crucified in\\nmy presence, was poor Lord Byron she had seen him,\\nit appeared, I know not where, soon after his arrival\\nin the East, and was vastly amused at his little affecta-\\ntions he had picked up a few sentences of the Romaic,\\nwith which he affected to give orders to his Greek serv-\\nant I can t tell whether Lady Hester s mimicry of\\nthe bard was at all close, but it was amusing she\\nattributed to him a curiously coxcombical lisp.\\nAnother person whose style of speaking the Lady\\ntook off very amusingly was one who would scarcely\\nobject to suffer by the side of Lord Byron, I mean\\nLamartine, who had visited her in the course of his\\ntravels the peculiarity which attracted her ridicule\\nwas an over-refinement of manner according to my\\nLady s imitation of Lamartine, (I have never seen him\\nmyself,) he had none of the violent grimace of his\\ncountrymen, and not even their usual way of talking,\\nwas the kindest-hearted man existing, a most manly, firm\\ncharacter. He comes from a good breed, all the Yorkes excel-\\nlent, with ancient French blood in their veins. [The under-\\nscoring of the word ancient, is by the writer of the letter, who\\nhad certainly no great love or veneration for the French of the\\npresent day she did not consider them as descended from her\\nfavourite stock. Added in Third Edition.]", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "88\\nEOTHEN\\nbut rather bore himself mincingly, like the humbler\\nsort of English dandy. 1\\nLady Hester seems to have heartily despised every\\nthing approaching to exquisiteness she told me, by\\nthe by, (and her opinion upon that subject is worth\\nhaving) that a downright manner, amounting even to\\nbrusqueness, is more effective than any other with the\\nOriental and that amongst the English, of all ranks,\\nand all classes, there is no man so attractive to the\\nOrientals no man who can negotiate with them half\\nso effectively, as a good, honest, open-hearted, and\\npositive naval officer of the old school.\\nI have told you I think that Lady Hester could deal\\nfiercely with those she hated one man above all others\\n(he is now uprooted from society, and cast away for ever)\\nshe blasted with her wrath you would have thought\\nthat in the scornfulness of her nature, she must have\\nsprung upon her foe with more of fierceness, than of\\nskill, but this was not so, for with all the force, and\\nvehemence of her invective, she displayed a sober,\\npatient, and minute attention to the details of vitupera-\\ntion, which contributed to its success a thousand times\\nmore than mere violence.\\nDuring the hours that this sort of conversation or\\nrather discourse was going on, our tchibouques were\\nfrom time to time replenished, and the Lady as well as\\nI, continued to smoke with little or no intermission,\\ntill the interview ended. I think that the fragrant\\nfumes of the Latakiah must have helped to keep me\\n1 It is said that deaf people can hear what is said concerning\\nthemselves, and it would seem that those who live without\\nbooks, or newspapers, know all that is written about them.\\nLady Hester Stanhope, though not admitting a book or news-\\npaper into her fortress, seems to have known the way in which\\nM. Lamartine mentioned her in his book, for in a letter which\\nshe wrote to me after my return to England, she says, although\\nneglected, as Monsieur Le M. (referring as I believe to M.\\nLamartine) describes, and without books, yet my head is\\norganized to supply the want of them, as well as acquired\\nknowledge.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 89\\non my good behaviour as a patient disciple of the\\nProphetess.\\nIt was not till after midnight that my visit for the\\nevening came to an end when I quitted my seat the\\nlady rose, and stood up in the same formal attitude\\n(almost that of a soldier in a state of attention,\\nwhich she had assumed at my entrance at the same\\ntime she let go the drapery which she had held over her\\nlap whilst sitting, and allowed it to fall to the ground.\\nThe next morning after breakfast I was visited by\\nmy Lady s Secretary the only European, except the\\nDoctor, whom she retained in her household. This\\nSecretary, like the Doctor, was Italian, but he preserved\\nmore signs of European dress, and European preten-\\nsions, than his medical fellow-slave. He spoke little\\nor no English, though he wrote it pretty well, having\\nbeen formerly employed in a mercantile house connected\\nwith England. The poor fellow was in an unhappy\\nstate of mind. In order to make you understand the\\nextent of his spiritual anxieties, I ought to have told\\nyou that the Doctor 1 (who had sunk into the complete\\nAsiatic, and had condescended accordingly to the per-\\nformance of even menial services) had adopted the\\ncommon faith of all the neighbouring people, and had\\nbecome a firm, and happy believer in the divine power\\nof his mistress. Not so the Secretary when I had\\nstrolled with him to a distance from the building, which\\nrendered him safe from being overheard by human\\nears, he told me in a hollow voice, trembling with\\nemotion, that there were times at which he doubted\\nthe divinity of Miledi. I said nothing to encourage\\nthe poor fellow in that frightful state of scepticism,\\nwhich, if indulged, might end in positive infidelity. I\\n1 [I have been recently told that this Italian s pretensions to\\nthe healing art were thoroughly unfounded. My informant is a\\ngentleman who enjoyed, during many years, the esteem and\\nconfidence of Lady Hester Stanhope his adventures in the\\nLevant were most curious and interesting, and will soon be im-\\nparted to the public\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Note in Third Edition.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "90\\nEOTHEN\\nfound that her ladyship had rather arbitrarily abridged\\nthe amusements of her Secretary, forbidding him from\\nshooting small birds on the mountain side. This op-\\npression had aroused in him a spirit of inquiry that\\nmight end fatally perhaps for himself perhaps for\\nthe religion of the place.\\nThe Secretary told me that his Mistress was greatly\\ndisliked by the surrounding people, whom she oppressed\\nby her exactions, and the truth of this statement was\\nborne out by the way in which my Lady spoke to me of\\nher neighbours. But in Eastern countries, hate and\\nveneration are very commonly felt for the same object,\\nand the general belief in the superhuman power of this\\nwonderful white lady her resolute and imperious\\ncharacter, and above all, perhaps, her fierce Albanians\\n(not backward to obey an order for the sacking of a\\nvillage) inspired sincere respect amongst the surround-\\ning inhabitants. Now the being respected amongst\\nOrientals, is not an empty, or merely honorary distinc-\\ntion, for, on the contrary, it carries with it a clear right\\nto take your neighbour s corn, his cattle, his eggs, and\\nhis honey, and almost any thing that is his, except his\\nwives. This law was acted upon by the Princess of\\nDjoun, and her establishment was supplied by con-\\ntributions apportioned amongst the nearest of the\\nvillages.\\nI understood that the Albanians (restrained, I sup-\\npose, by the dread of being delivered up to Ibrahim)\\nhad not given any very troublesome proofs of their\\nunruly natures. The Secretary told me that their\\nrations, including a small allowance of coffee, and\\ntobacco, were served out to them with tolerable\\nregularity.\\nI asked the Secretary, how Lady Hester was off for\\nhorses, and said that I would take a look at the stable\\nthe man did not raise any opposition to my proposal,\\nand affected no mystery about the matter, but said that\\nthe only two steeds which then belonged to her Lady-\\nship were of a very humble sort this answer, and a", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 91\\nstorm of rain which began to descend, prevented me\\nat the time from undertaking my journey to the stable,\\nwhich was at some distance from the part of the\\nbuilding in which I was quartered, and I don t know\\nthat I ever thought of the matter afterwards, until my\\nreturn to England, when I saw Lamartine s eye-\\nwitnessing account of the horse saddled by the hands\\nof his Maker\\nWhen I returned to my apartment (which, as my\\nhostess told me, was the only one in the whole building\\nthat kept out the rain) her Ladyship sent to say that\\nshe would be glad to receive me again I was rather\\nsurprised at this, for I had understood that she reposed\\nduring the day, and it was now little later than noon.\\nReally, said she, when I had taken my seat, and my\\npipe, we were together for hours last night, and still\\nI have heard nothing at all of my old friends now do\\ntell me something of your dear mother, and her sister\\nI never knew your father it was after I left Burton\\nPynsent that your mother married. I began to make\\nslow answer, but my questioner soon went off again to\\ntopics more sublime, so that this second interview,\\nwhich lasted two or three hours, was occupied by the\\nsame sort of varied discourse as that which I have\\nbeen describing.\\nIn the course of the afternoon the captain of an\\nEnglish man-of-war arrived at Djoun, and her Lady-\\nship determined to receive him for the same reason as\\nthat which had induced her to allow my visit namely,\\nan early intimacy with his family. I, and the new\\nvisitor, who was a pleasant, amusing person, dined\\ntogether, and we were afterwards invited to the pre-\\nsence of my Lady, with whom we sat smoking, and\\ntalking till midnight. The conversation turned chiefly,\\nI think, upon magical science. I had determined to\\nbe off at an early hour the next morning, and so at the\\nend of this interview, I bade my Lady farewell. With\\nher parting words she once more advised me to abandon\\nEurope, and seek my reward in the East, and she", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "92\\nEOTHEN\\nurged me too, to give the like counsels to my father,\\nand tell him that She had said tt\\nLady Hester s unholy claim to supremacy in the\\nspiritual kingdom was, no doubt, the suggestion of\\nfierce, and inordinate pride most perilously akin to\\nmadness, but I am quite sure that the mind of the\\nwoman was too strong to be thoroughly overcome by\\neven this potent feeling. I plainly saw that she was\\nnot an unhesitating follower of her own system, and I\\neven fancied that I could distinguish, the brief moments\\nduring which she contrived to believe in Herself, from\\nthose long, and less happy intervals in which her own\\nreason was too strong for her.\\nAs for the Lady s faith in Astrology, and Magic\\nscience, you are not for a moment to suppose, that this\\nimplied any aberration of intellect. She believed these\\nthings in common with those around her, for she\\nseldom spoke to anybody, except crazy old dervishes,\\nwho received her alms, and fostered her extravagances,\\nand even when (as on the occasion of my visit) she was\\nbrought into contact with a person entertaining different\\nnotions, she still remained uncontradicted. This\\nentourage, and the habit of fasting from books, and\\nnewspapers were quite enough to make her a facile\\nrecipient of any marvellous story.\\nI think that in England we are scarcely sufficiently\\nconscious of the great debt we owe to the wise, and\\nwatchful press which presides over the formation of our\\nopinions, and which brings about this splendid result,\\nnamely, that in matters of belief the humblest of us are\\nlifted up to the level of the most sagacious, so that\\nreally a simple Cornet in the Blues is no more likely to\\nentertain a foolish belief about ghosts, or witchcraft, or\\nany other supernatural topic, than the Lord High-\\nChancellor, or the Leader of the House of Commons.\\nHow different is the intellectual regime of Eastern\\ncountries In Syria, and Palestine, and Egypt, you\\nmight as well dispute the efficacy of grass, or grain, as\\nof Magic. There is no controversy about the matter.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "LADY HESTER STANHOPE 93\\nThe effect of this, the unanimous belief of an ignorant\\npeople upon the mind of a stranger, is extremely curious,\\nand well worth noticing. A man coming freshly from\\nEurope is at first proof against the nonsense with which\\nhe is assailed, but often it happens that after a little\\nwhile the social atmosphere in which he lives will\\nbegin to infect him, and if he has been unaccustomed\\nto the cunning of fence by which Reason prepares the\\nmeans of guarding herself against fallacy, he will yield\\nrrjmself at last to the faith of those around him, and\\nthis he will do by sympathy, it would seem, rather than\\nfrom conviction. I have been much interested in\\nobserving that the mere practical man, however skil-\\nful, and shrewd in his own way, has not the kind of\\npower which enables him to resist the gradual impres-\\nsion which is made upon his mind by the common\\nopinion of those whom he sees, and hears from day to\\nday. Even amongst the English (whose good sense\\nand sound religious knowledge would be likely to\\nguard them from error), I have known the calculating\\nmerchant, the inquisitive traveller, and the post-captain,\\nwith his bright, wakeful eye of command I have\\nknown all these surrender themselves to the really\\nmagic-like influence of other people s minds their\\nlanguage at first is that they are staggered leading\\nyou by that expression to suppose that they had been\\nwitnesses to some phenomenon, which it was very\\ndifficult to account for otherwise than by super-natural\\ncauses, but when I have questioned further, I have\\nalways found that these staggering wonders were\\nnot even specious enough to be looked upon as good\\ntricks. A man in England, who gained his whole liveli-\\nhood as a conjuror, would soon be starved to death if he\\ncould perform no better miracles than those which are\\nwrought with so much effect in Syria, and Egypt some^\\ntime^ no doubt, a magician will make a good hit, (Sir\\nRobert once said a good thing, but all such successes\\nrange, of course, under the head of mere tentative mira-\\ncles, as distinguished by the strong-brained Paley.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX\\nTHE SANCTUARY\\nI CROSSED the plain of Esdraelon, and entered\\namongst the hills of beautiful Galilee. It was at\\nsunset that my path brought me sharply round into the\\ngorge of a little valley, and close upon a gray mass of\\ndwellings that lay happily nestled in the lap of the\\nmountain. There was one only shining point still\\ntouched with the light of the sun, who had set for all\\nbesides a brave sign this to holy Shereef, and the\\nrest of my Moslem men, for the one glittering summit\\nwas the head of a minaret, and the rest of the seeming\\nvillage that had veiled itself so meekly under the shades\\nof evening was Christian Nazareth\\nWithin the precincts of the Latin convent in which I\\nwas quartered, there stands the great Catholic church\\nwhich encloses the Sanctuary the dwelling of the\\nblessed Virgin. 1 This is a grotto of about ten feet\\n1 The Greek Church does not recognize this as the true Sanc-\\ntuary, and many Protestants look upon all the traditions, by\\nwhich it is attempted to ascertain the holy places of Palestine as\\nutterly fabulous. For myself, I do not mean either to affirm, or\\ndeny the correctness of the opinion which has fixed upon this as\\nthe true site, but merely to mention it as a belief entertained,\\nwithout question, by my brethren of the Latin church, whose\\nguest I was at the time. It would be a great aggravation of the\\ntrouble of writing about these matters, if I were to stop in the\\nmidst of every sentence for the purpose of saying so-called, or\\nso it is said, and would besides sound very ungraciously yet\\nI am anxious to be literally true in all I write. Now, thus it is\\nthat I mean to get over my difficulty. Whenever in this great", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "THE SANCTUARY\\n95\\neither way, forming a little chapel or recess, to which\\nyou descend by steps. It is decorated with splendour\\non the left hand a column of granite hangs from the top\\nof the grotto, to within a few feet of the ground im-\\nmediately beneath it is another column of the same\\nsize, which rises from the ground as if to meet the one\\nabove but between this, and the suspended pillar,\\nthere is an interval of more than a foot these frag-\\nments once formed a single column, against which the\\nangel leant, when he spoke, and told to Mary the\\nmystery of her awful blessedness. Hard by, near the\\naltar, the holy Virgin was kneeling.\\nI had been journeying (cheerily indeed, for the voices\\nof my followers were ever within my hearing, but yet)\\nas it were, in solitude, for I had no comrade to whet\\nthe edge of my reason, or wake me from my noon-day\\ndreams. I was left all alone to be taught, and swayed\\nby the beautiful circumstances of Palestine travelling\\nby the clime, and the land, and the name of the land\\nwith all its mighty import by the glittering freshness\\nof the sward, and the abounding masses of flowers that\\nfurnished my sumptuous pathway by the bracing, and\\nfragrant air that seemed to poise me in my saddle, and\\nto lift me along like a planet appointed to glide through\\nspace.\\nAnd the end of my journey was Nazareth the home\\nof the Blessed Virgin In the first dawn of my man-\\nhood, the old painters of Italy had taught me their\\ndangerous worship of the beauty that is more than\\nmortal, but those images all seemed shadowy now, and\\nfloated before me so dimly, the one overcasting the\\nbundle of papers, or book, (if book it is to be,) you see any words\\nabout matters of religion which would seem to involve the asser-\\ntion of my own opinion, you are to understand me, just as if one\\nor other of the qualifying phrases above mentioned, had been\\nactually inserted in every sentence. My general direction for\\nyou to construe me thus, will render all that I write, as strictly\\nand accurately true, as if I had every time lugged in a formal\\ndeclaration of the fact, that I was merely expressing the notions\\nof other people.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "96\\nEOTHEN\\nother, that they left me no one sweet idol on which I\\ncould look, and look again, and say, Maria mia w\\nYet they left me more than an idol they left me (for to\\nthem I am wont to trace it) a faint apprehension of\\nBeauty not compassed with lines, and shadows they\\ntouched me (forgive, proud Marie of Anjou they\\ntouched me with a faith in loveliness transcending\\nmortal shapes.\\nI came to Nazareth, and was led from the convent to\\nthe Sanctuary. Long fasting will sometimes heat my\\nbrain, and draw me away out of the world will disturb\\nmy judgment, confuse my notions of right, and wrong,\\nand weaken my power of choosing the right I had\\nfasted perhaps too long, for I was fevered with the zeal\\nof an insane devotion to the Heavenly Queen of\\nChristendom. But I knew the feebleness of this gentle\\nmalady, and knew how easily my watchful reason, if\\never so slightly provoked, would drag me back to life\\nlet there but come one chilling breath of the outer\\nworld, and all this loving piety would cower, and fly\\nbefore the sound of my own bitter laugh. And so as I\\nwent, I trod tenderly, not looking to the right, nor to\\nleft, but bending my eyes to the ground.\\nThe attending friar served me well he led me down\\nquietly, and all but silently to the Virgin s home. The\\nmystic air was so burnt with the consuming flames of\\nthe altar, and so laden with incense, that my chest\\nlaboured strongly, and heaved with luscious pain.\\nThere there with beating heart the Virgin knelt, and\\nlistened I strived to grasp, and hold with my rivetted\\neyes some one of the feigned Madonnas, but of all the\\nheaven-lit faces imagined by men, there was none that\\nwould abide with me in this the very Sanctuary. Im-\\npatient of vacancy, I grew madly strong against Nature,\\nand if by some awful spell some impious rite, I could\\nOh most sweet Religion that bid me fear God, and\\nbe pious, and yet not cease from loving Religion and\\ngracious Custom commanded me that I fall down\\nloyally, and kiss the rock that blessed Mary pressed", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "THE SANCTUARY\\n97\\nWith a half consciousness with the semblance of a\\nthrilling hope that I was plunging deep, deep into my\\nfirst knowledge of some most holy mystery, or of some\\nnew, rapturous, and daring sin, I knelt, and bowed\\ndown my face till I met the smooth rock with my lips.\\nOne moment one moment my heart, or some old\\nPagan demon within me woke up, and fiercely bounded\\nmy bosom was lifted, and swung as though I had\\ntouched Her warm robe. One moment\u00e2\u0080\u0094 one more,\\nand then the fever had left me. I rose from my knees.\\nI felt hopelessly sane. The mere world re-appeared.\\nMy good old Monk was there, dangling his key with\\nlistless patience, and as he guided me from the Church,\\nand talked of the Refectory, and the coming repast, I\\nlistened to his words with some attention, and pleasure.\\nH", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X\\nTHE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND\\nWHENEVER you come back to me from Pales-\\ntine, we will find some golden wine, 1 of\\nLebanon, that we may celebrate with apt libations the\\nmonks of the Holy Land, and, though the poor fellows\\nbe theoretically dead to the world, we will drink to\\nevery man of them a good, long life, and a merry one\\nGraceless is the traveller who forgets his obligations to\\nthese saints upon earth little love has he for merry\\nChristendom, if he has not rejoiced with great joy to\\nfind in the very midst of water-drinking infidels, those\\nlowly monasteries, in which the blessed juice of the\\ngrape is quaffed in peace. Ay Ay We will fill our\\nglasses till they look like cups of amber, and drink\\nprofoundly to our gracious hosts in Palestine.\\nYou would be likely enough to fancy that these\\nmonastics are men who have retired to the sacred sites\\nof Palestine, from an enthusiastic longing to devote\\nthemselves to the exercise of religion in the midst of\\nthe very land on which its first seeds were cast, and\\nthis is partially, at least, the case with the monks of\\nthe Greek Church, but it is not with enthusiasts that\\nthe Catholic establishments are filled. The monks of\\nthe Latin convents are chiefly persons of the peasant\\nclass, from Italy and Spain, who have been handed\\nover to these remote asylums, by order of their eccle-\\nsiastical superiors, and can no more account for their\\n1 Vino d oro.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "THE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND 99\\nbeing in the Holy Land, than men of marching regi-\\nments can explain why they are in stupid quarters.\\nI believe that these monks are for the most part well\\nconducted men, punctual in their ceremonial duties,\\nand altogether humble-minded Christians their hu-\\nmility is not at all misplaced, for you see at a glance\\n(poor fellows) that they belong to the lag remove\\nof the human race. If the taking of the cowl does\\nnot imply a complete renouncement of the world, it is\\nat least (in these days,) a bona fide farewell to every\\nkind of useful and entertaining knowledge, and accord-\\ningly, the low bestial brow, and the animal caste of\\nthose almost Bourbon features, shew plainly enough\\nthat all the intellectual vanities of life have been really,\\narid truly abandoned. But it is hard to quench alto-\\ngether the spirit of Inquiry that stirs in the human\\nbreast, and accordingly these monks inquire, they\\nare always inquiring, inquiring for news Poor\\nfellows they could scarcely have yielded themselves\\nto the sway of any passion more difficult of gratifica-\\ntion, for they have no means of communicating with\\nthe journalized world, except through European travel-\\nlers and these in consequence, I suppose, of that\\nrestlessness, and irritability which generally haunt\\ntheir wanderings, seem to have always avoided the\\nbore of giving any information to their hosts as for\\nme, I am more patient, and good-natured, and when I\\nfound that the kind monks who gathered round me at\\nNazareth were longing to know the real truth about\\nthe General Bonaparte, who had recoiled from the\\nsiege of Acre, I softened my heart down to the good\\nhumour of Herodotus, and calmly began to sing\\nHistory, telling my eager hearers of the French Em-\\npire, and the greatness of its glory, and of Waterloo,\\nand the fall of Napoleon Now my story of this\\nmarvellous ignorance on the part of the poor monks is\\none upon which, (though depending on my own testi-\\nmony,) I look with considerable suspicion it is\\nquite true, (how silly it would be to inveiit anything so", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "IOO\\nEOTHEN\\nwitless and yet I think I could satisfy the mind of a\\nreasonable man, that it is false. Many of the older\\nmonks must have been in Europe, at a time when the\\nItaly and the Spain from which they came, were in\\nact of taking their French lessons, or had parted so\\nlately with their teachers, that not to know of the\\nEmperor was impossible, and these men could scarcely,\\ntherefore, have failed to bring with them some tidings\\nof Napoleon s career. Yet I say that that which I\\nhave written is true, the one who believes because I\\nhave said it, will be right, (she always is,) whilst\\npoor Mr. reasonable man, who is convinced by the\\nweight of my argument, will be completely deceived.\\nIn Spanish politics, however, the monks are better\\ninstructed the revenues of the monasteries, which had\\nbeen principally supplied by the bounty of their most\\nCatholic Majesties, have been withheld since Ferdi-\\nnand s death, and the interests of these establishments\\nbeing thus closely involved in the destinies of Spain,\\nit is not wonderful that the brethren should be a little\\nmore knowing in Spanish affairs, than in other branches\\nof history. Besides, a large proportion of the monks\\nwere natives of the Peninsula to these, I remember,\\nMysseri s familiarity with the Spanish language, and\\ncharacter was a source of immense delight they were\\nalways gathering around him, and it seemed to me that\\nthey treasured like gold the few Castilian words which\\nhe deigned to spare them.\\nChristianity permits, and sanctions the drinking of\\nwine, and of all the holy brethren in Palestine, there\\nare none who hold fast to this gladsome rite so strenu-\\nously as the monks of Damascus not that they are\\nmore zealous Christians than the rest of their fellows\\nin the Holy Land, but that they have better wine.\\nWhilst I was at Damascus, I had my quarters at the\\nFranciscan convent there, and very soon after my\\narrival I asked one of the monks to let me know\\nsomething of the spots which deserved to be seen\\nI made my inquiry in reference to the associations", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "THE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND 101\\nwith which the city had been hallowed by the sojourn,\\nand adventures of St. Paul. There is nothing in all\\nDamascus, said the good man, half so well worth\\nseeing as our cellars, and forthwith he invited me to\\ngo, see, and admire the long ranges of liquid treasure\\nwhich he and his brethren had laid up for themselves\\non earth. And these, I soon found, were not as the\\ntreasures of the miser that lie in unprofitable disuse,\\nfor day by day, and hour by hour, the golden juice\\nascended from the dark recesses of the cellar to the\\nuppermost brains of the monks dear old fellows in\\nthe midst of that solemn land, their Christian laughter\\nrang loudly, and merrily their eyes flashed with un-\\nceasing bonfires, and their heavy woollen petticoats\\ncould no more weigh down the springiness of their\\npaces, than the nominal gauze of a danseuse can clog\\nher bounding step.\\nThe monks do a world of good in their way, and\\nthere can be no doubting that previously to the arrival\\nof Bishop Alexander, with his numerous young family,\\nand his pretty English nursemaids, they were the chief\\nPropagandists of Christianity in Palestine. My old\\nfriends of the Franciscan convent at Jerusalem, some\\ntime since, gave proof of their goodness by delivering\\nthemselves up to the peril of death for the sake of\\nDuty. When I was their guest, they were forty, I be-\\nlieve, in number, and I don t recollect that there was\\none of them whom I should have looked upon as a\\ndesirable life-holder of any property to which I might\\nbe entitled in expectancy. Yet these forty were re-\\nduced in a few days to nineteen the Plague was the\\nmessenger that summoned them to a taste of real death,\\nbut the circumstances under which they perished are\\nrather curious, and though I have no authority for the\\nstory except an Italian newspaper, I harbour no doubt\\nof its truth, for the facts were detailed with minuteness,\\nand strictly corresponded with all that I knew of the\\npoor fellows to whom they related.\\nIt was about three months after the time of my", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "102\\nEOTHEN\\nleaving Jerusalem, that the Plague set his spotted foot\\non the Holy City. The monks felt great alarm they\\ndid not shrink from their duty, but for its performance\\nthey chose a plan most sadly well fitted for bringing\\ndown upon them the very death which they were\\nstriving to ward off. They imagined themselves almost\\nsafe, so long as they remained within their walls but\\nthen it was quite needful that the Catholic Christians\\nof the place, who had always looked to the convent for\\nthe supply of their spiritual wants, should receive the\\naids of religion in the hour of death. A single monk,\\ntherefore, was chosen either by lot, or by some other\\nfair appeal to Destiny being thus singled out, he was\\nto go forth into the plague-stricken city, and to perform\\nwith exactness his priestly duties then he was to re-\\nturn, not to the interior of the Convent, for fear of in-\\nfecting his brethren, but to a detached building, (which\\nI remember) belonging to the establishment, but at\\nsome little distance from the inhabited rooms he was\\nprovided with a bell, and at a certain hour in the morn-\\ning he was ordered to ring it, if he could: but if no\\nsound was heard at the appointed time, then knew his\\nbrethren that he was either delirious, or dead, and\\nanother martyr was sent forth to take his place. In\\nthis way twenty-one of the monks were carried off.\\nOne cannot well fail to admire the steadiness with\\nwhich the dismal scheme was carried through but if\\nthere be any truth in the notion, that disease may be\\ninvited by a frightening imagination, it is difficult to\\nconceive a more dangerous plan than that which was\\nchosen by these poor fellows. The anxiety with which\\nthey must have expected each day the sound of the\\nbell, the silence that reigned instead of it, and then\\nthe drawing of the lots, (the odds against death being\\none point lower than yesterday) and the going forth of\\nthe newly doomed man all this must have widened\\nthe gulf that opens to the shades below when his\\nvictim had already suffered so much of mental torture,\\nit was but easy work for big, bullying Pestilence to", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "THE MONKS OF THE HOLY LAND 103\\nfollow a forlorn monk from the beds of the dying, and\\nwrench away his life from him, as he lay all alone in\\nan outhouse.\\nIn most, I believe in all of the Holy Land convents,\\nthere are two personages so strangely raised above\\ntheir brethren in all that dignifies humanity, that their\\nbearing the same habit their dwelling under the same\\nroof their worshipping the same God, (consistent as\\nall this is with the spirit of their religion) yet strikes\\nthe mind with a sense of wondrous incongruity the\\nmen I speak of are the Padre Superiore, and the\\nPadre Missionario. The former is the supreme and\\nabsolute governor of the establishment, over which he\\nis appointed to rule the latter is entrusted with the\\nmore active of the spiritual duties which attach to the\\nPilgrim Church. He is the shepherd of the good\\nCatholic flock whose pasture is prepared in the midst\\nof Mussulmans, and schismatics he keeps the light of\\nthe true faith ever vividly before their eyes reproves\\ntheir vices supports them in their good resolves\\nconsoles them in their afflictions, and teaches them to\\nhate the Greek church. Such are his labours, and\\nyou may conceive that great tact must be needed for\\nconducting with success the spiritual interests of the\\nchurch under circumstances so odd as those which\\nsurround it in Palestine.\\nBut the position of the Padre Superiore is still more\\ndelicate he is almost unceasingly in treaty with the\\npowers that be, and the worldly prosperity of the\\nestablishment over which he presides, is in great\\nmeasure dependent upon the extent of diplomatic skill\\nwhich he can employ in his favour. I know not from\\nwhat class of churchmen these personages are chosen,\\nfor there is a mystery attending their origin, and the\\ncircumstance of their being stationed in these convents,\\nwhich Rome does not suffer to be penetrated I have\\nheard it said that they are men of great note, and\\nperhaps, of too high ambition in the Catholic Hierarchy,\\nwho having fallen under the grave censure of the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nChurch, are banished for fixed periods to these distant\\nmonasteries. I believe that the term during which\\nthey are condemned to remain in the Holy Land, is\\nfrom eight to twelve years. By the natives of the\\ncountry, as well as by the rest of the brethren, they\\nare looked upon as superior beings and rightly too,\\nfor nature seems to have crowned them in her own\\ntrue way.\\nThe chief of the Jerusalem convent was a noble\\ncreature his worldly, and spiritual authority seemed\\nto have surrounded him, as it were, with a kind of\\nCourt, and the manly gracefulness of his bearing,\\ndid honour to the throne which he filled. There were\\nno lords of the bedchamber, and no gold sticks, and\\nstones in waiting, yet every body who approached him\\nlooked as though he were being presented every\\ninterview which he granted wore the air of an audi-\\nence the brethren as often as they came near, bowed\\nlow, and kissed his hand, and if he went out, the\\nCatholics of the place that hovered about the convent,\\nwould crowd around him with devout affection, and\\nalmost scramble for the blessing which his touch could\\ngive. He bore his honours all serenely, as though\\ncalmly conscious of his power, to bind, and to loose.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XI\\nFROM NAZARETH TO TIBERIAS\\nNEITHER old Sacred 1 himself, nor any of his\\nhelpers, knew the road which I meant to take\\nfrom Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee, and from thence\\nto Jerusalem, so I was forced to add another to my\\nparty, by hiring a guide. The associations of Nazareth,\\nas well as my kind feeling towards the hospitable\\nmonks whose guest I had been, inclined me to set at\\nnought the advice which I had received against em-\\nploying Christians. I accordingly engaged a lithe,\\nactive young Nazarene, who was recommended to me\\nby the monks, and who affected to be familiar with the\\nline of country through which I intended to pass. My\\ndisregard of the popular prejudice against Christians\\nwas not justified in this particular instance, by the\\nresult of my choice. This you will see by and by.\\nI passed by Cana, and the house in which the water\\nhad been turned into wine I came to the field in which\\nour Saviour had rebuked the Scotch Sabbath -keepers\\nof that period, by suffering his disciples to pluck corn\\non the Lord s day I rode over the ground on which\\nthe fainting multitude had been fed, and they shewed\\nme some massive fragments the relics, they said, of\\nthat wondrous banquet, now turned into stone. The\\npetrifaction was most complete.\\nI ascended the height on which our Lord was stand-\\ning when he wrought the miracle. The hill was lofty\\nenough to shew me the fairness of the land on all sides,\\n,1 Shereef.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "io6\\nEOTHEN\\nbut I have an ancient love for the mere features of a\\nlake, and so forgetting all else when I reached the\\nsummit, I looked away eagerly to the Eastward. There\\nshe lay, the Sea of Galilee. Less stern than Wast-\\nwater less fair than gentle Windermere, she had still\\nthe winning ways of an English lake she caught from\\nthe smiling heavens unceasing light, and changeful\\nphases of beauty, and with all this brightness on her\\nface, she yet clung so fondly to the dull he-looking\\nmountain at her side, as though she would\\nSoothe him with her finer fancies,\\nTouch him with her lighter thought. 1\\nIf one might judge of men s real thoughts by their\\nwritings, it would seem that there are people who can\\nvisit an interesting locality, and follow up continuously\\nthe exact train of thought which ought to be suggested\\nby the historical associations of the place. A person\\nof this sort can go to Athens, and think of nothing later\\nthan the age of Pericles can live with the Scipios as\\nlong as he stays in Rome can go up in a balloon,\\nand think how resplendently in former times the now\\nvacant, and desolate air was peopled with angels how\\nprettily it was crossed at intervals by the rounds of\\nJacob s ladder I don t possess this power at all it is\\nonly by snatches, and for few moments together that I\\ncan really associate a place with its proper history.\\nThere at Tiberias, and along this western shore\\ntowards the North, and upon the bosom too of the lake,\\nour Saviour and his disciples away flew those\\nrecollections, and my mind strained Eastward, because\\nthat that farthest shore was the end of the world that\\nbelongs to man the dweller the beginning of the other\\nand veiled world that is held by the strange race, whose\\nlife (like the pastime of Satan) is a going to and fro\\nupon the face of the earth. From those gray hills\\nright away to the gates of Bagdad stretched forth the\\n3 Tennyson.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "FROM NAZARETH TO TIBERIAS 107\\nmysterious Desert not a pale, void, sandy tract,\\nbut a land abounding in rich pastures a land without\\ncities or towns, without any respectable people, or\\nany respectable things, yet yielding its eighty thou-\\nsand cavalry to the beck of a few old men. But once\\nmore Tiberias the plain of Gennesareth the very\\nearth on which I stood that the deep, low tones of\\nthe Saviour s voice should have gone forth into Eternity\\nfrom out of the midst of these hills, and these vallies\\nAy, Ay, but yet again the calm face of the Lake was\\nuplifted, and smiled upon my eyes with such familiar\\ngaze, that the deep low tones were hushed the\\nlistening multitudes all passed away, and instead there\\ncame to me a dear old memory from over the seas in\\nEngland a memory sweeter than veriest Gospel to\\nthat poor, wilful mortal, me.\\nI went to Tiberias, and soon got afloat upon the\\nwater. In the evening I took up my quarters in the\\nCatholic Church, and, the building being large enough,\\nthe whole of my party were admitted to the benefit of\\nthe same shelter. With portmanteaus, and carpet\\nbags, and books, and maps, and fragrant tea, Mysseri\\nsoon made me a home on the southern side of the\\nchurch. One of old Shereefs helpers was an enthusi-\\nastic Catholic, and was greatly delighted at having so\\nsacred a lodging. He lit up the altar with a number\\nof tapers, and when his preparations were complete, he\\nbegan to perform his orisons in the strangest manner\\nimaginable his lips muttered the prayers of the Latin\\nChurch, but he bowed himself down, and laid his fore-\\nhead to the stones beneath him, after the manner of a\\nMussulman. The universal aptness of a religious\\nsystem for all stages of civilization, and for all sorts,\\nand conditions of men, well befits its claim of divine\\norigin. She is of all nations, and of all times, that\\nwonderful Church of Rome\\nTiberias is one of the four holy cities, 1 according to\\n1 The other three cities held holy by Jews are Jerusalem,\\nHebron, and Safet.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "io8\\nEOTHEN\\nthe Talmud, and it is from this place, or the immediate\\nneighbourhood of it, that the Messiah is to arise.\\nExcept at Jerusalem, never think of attempting to\\nsleep in a holy city. Old Jews from all parts of the\\nworld go to lay their bones upon the sacred soil, and as\\nthese people never return to their homes, it follows that\\nany domestic vermin which they may bring with them\\nare likely to become permanently resident, so that the\\npopulation is continually increasing. No recent census\\nhad been taken when I was at Tiberias, but I know that\\nthe congregation of fleas which attended at my church\\nalone, must have been something enormous. It was a\\ncarnal, self-seeking congregation, wholly inattentive to\\nthe service which was going on, and devoted to the one\\nobject of having my blood. The fleas of all nations\\nwere there. The smug, steady, importunate flea from\\nHolywell street the pert, jumping puce from hungry\\nFrance the wary, watchful pulce with his poisoned\\nstiletto the vengeful pulga of Castile with his ugly\\nknife the German floh with his knife, and fork\\ninsatiate not rising from table whole swarms from\\nall the Russias, and Asiatic hordes unnumbered all\\nthese were there, and all rejoiced in one great inter-\\nnational feast. I could no more defend myself against\\nmy enemies, than if I had been pain a discretion in\\nthe hands of a French patriot, or English gold in the\\nclaws of a Pennsylvanian Quaker. After passing a\\nnight like this, you are glad to pick up the wretched\\nremains of your body, long, long before morning dawns.\\nYour skin is scorched your temples throb your lips\\nfeel withered and dried your burning eye-balls are\\nscrewed inwards against the brain. You have no hope\\nbut only in the saddle, and the freshness of the morn-\\ning air.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XII\\nMY FIRST BIVOUAC\\nTHE course of the Jordan is from the north to the\\nsouth, and in that direction, with very little of\\ndevious winding, it carries the shining waters of Galilee\\nstraight down into the solitudes of the Dead Sea.\\nSpeaking roughly, the river in that meridian, is a\\nboundary between the people living under roofs, and\\nthe tented tribes that wander on the farther side. And\\nso, as I went down in my way from Tiberias towards\\nJerusalem, along the western bank of the stream, my\\nthinking all propended to the ancient world of herds-\\nmen, and warriors, that lay so close over my bridle arm.\\nIf a man, and an Englishman, be not born of his\\nmother with a natural Chifmey-bit in his mouth, there\\ncomes to him a time for loathing the wearisome ways\\nof society a time for not liking tamed people a time\\nfor not dancing quadrilles not sitting in pews a time\\nfor pretending that Milton, and Shelley, and all sorts\\nof mere dead people, were greater in death than the\\nfirst living Lord of the Treasury a time in short for\\nscoffing and railing for speaking lightly of the very\\nopera, and all our most cherished institutions. It is\\nfrom nineteen, to two or three and twenty perhaps,\\nthat this war of the man against men is like to be\\nwaged most sullenly. You are yet in this smiling\\nEngland, but you find yourself wending away to the\\ndark sides of her mountains, climbing the dizzy crags,\\nexulting in the fellowship of mists, and clouds, and\\nwatching the storms how they gather, or proving the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "no\\nEOTHEN\\nmettle of your mare upon the broad, and dreary downs,\\nbecause that you feel congenially with the yet un-\\nparcelled earth. A little while you are free, and\\nunlabelled, like the ground that you compass, but\\nCivilization is coming, and coming you, and your\\nmuch-loved waste lands will be surely enclosed, and\\nsooner, or later, you will be brought down to a state of\\nutter usefulness the ground will be curiously sliced\\ninto acres, and roods, and perches, and you, for all you\\nsit so smartly in your saddle, you will be caught you\\nwill be taken up from travel, as a colt from grass, to be\\ntrained, and tried, and matched, and run. All this in\\ntime, but first come continental tours, and the moody\\nlonging for Eastern travel the downs, and the moors\\nof England can hold you no longer with larger stride\\nyou burst away from these slips, and patches of free\\nland you thread your path through the crowds of\\nEurope, and at last on the banks of Jordan, you joy-\\nfully know that you are upon the very frontier of all\\naccustomed respectabilities. There, on the other side\\nof the river, (you can swim it with one arm,) there\\nreigns the people that will be like to put you to death\\nfor not being a vagrant, for not being a robber, for not\\nbeing armed, and houseless. There is comfort in that\\nhealth, comfort, and strength to one who is dying\\nfrom very weariness of that poor, dear, middle-aged,\\ndeserving, accomplished, pedantic, and pains-taking\\ngoverness Europe.\\nI had ridden for some hours along the right bank of\\nJordan, when I came to the Djesr el Medjame, (an old\\nRoman bridge, I believe,) which crossed the river.\\nMy Nazarene guide was riding ahead of the party, and\\nnow, to my surprise and delight, he turned leftwards,\\nand led on over the bridge. I knew that the true road\\nto Jerusalem must be mainly by the right bank of\\nJordan, but I supposed that my guide was crossing the\\nbridge at this spot in order to avoid some bend in the\\nriver, and that he knew of a ford lower down by which\\nwe should regain the western bank. I made no", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "MY FIRST BIVOUAC\\nin\\nquestion about the road, for I was but too glad to set my\\nhorse s hoofs upon the land of the wandering tribes.\\nNone of my party, except the Nazarene, knew the\\ncountry. On we went through rich pastures upon the\\nEastern side of the water. I looked for the expected\\nbend of the river, but far as I could see, it kept a\\nstraight southerly course I still left my guide un-\\nquestioned.\\nThe Jordan is not a perfectly accurate boundary\\nbetwixt roofs and tents, for soon after passing the\\nbridge, I came upon a cluster of huts. Some time\\nafterwards, the guide, upon being closely questioned by\\nmy servants confessed that the village which we had\\nleft behind, was the last that we should see, but he\\ndeclared that he knew a spot at which we should find\\nan encampment of friendly Bedouins, who would receive\\nme with all hospitality. I had long determined not to\\nleave the East without seeing something of the wander-\\ning tribes, but I had looked forward to this as a\\npleasure to be found in the Desert between El Arish\\nand Egypt I had no idea that the Bedouins on the\\nEast of Jordan were accessible. My delight was so\\ngreat at the near prospect of bread, and salt in the\\ntent of an Arab warrior, that I wilfully allowed my\\nguide to go on, and mislead me I saw that he was\\ntaking me out of the straight route towards Jerusalem,\\nand was drawing me into the midst of the Bedouins,\\nbut the idea of his betraying me, seemed (I know not\\nwhy) so utterly absurd, that I could not entertain it for\\na moment I fancied it possible that the fellow had\\ntaken me out of my route in order to attempt some\\nlittle mercantile enterprize with the tribe for which he\\nwas seeking, and I was glad of the opportunity which\\nI might thus gain of coming in contact with the\\nwanderers.\\nNot long after passing the village a horseman met\\nus it appeared that some of the cavalry of Ibrahim\\nPasha had crossed the river, for the sake of the rich\\npastures on the eastern bank, and that this man was", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "112\\nEOTHEN\\none of the troopers he stopped, and saluted he was\\nobviously surprised at meeting an unarmed, or half-\\narmed cavalcade, and at last fairly told us that we were\\non the wrong side of the river, and that if we proceeded,\\nwe must lay our account with falling amongst robbers.\\nAll this while, and throughout the day, my Nazarene\\nkept well a-head of the party, and was constantly up\\nin his stirrups, straining forward, and searching the\\ndistance for some objects which still remained unseen.\\nFor the rest of the day we saw no human being\\nwe pushed on eagerly in the hope of coming up with\\nthe Bedouins before nightfall. Night came, and we\\nstill went on in our way, till about ten o clock. Then the\\nthorough darkness of the night and the weariness of\\nOur beasts, (which had already done two good days\\njourney in one) forced us to determine upon coming\\nto a stand-still. Upon the heights to the eastward we\\nsaw lights these shone from caves on the mountain-\\nside, inhabited, as the Nazarene told us, by rascals of\\na low sort not real Bedouins men whom we might\\nfrighten into harmlessness, but from whom there was\\nno willing hospitality to be expected.\\nWe heard at a little distance the brawling of a\\nrivulet, and on the banks of this it was determined to\\nestablish our bivouac we soon found the stream, and\\nfollowing its course for a few yards came to a spot\\nwhich was thought to be fit for our purpose. It was a\\nsharply cold night in February, and when I dismounted,\\nI found myself standing upon some wet, rank herbage\\nthat promised ill for the comfort of our resting place.\\nI had bad hopes of a fire, for the pitchy darkness of\\nthe night was a great obstacle to any successful search\\nfor fuel, and besides the boughs, of trees or bushes,\\nwould be so full of sap in this early spring, that they\\nwould not be easily persuaded to burn. However, we\\nwere not likely to submit to a dark, and cold bivouac,\\nwithout an effort, and my fellows groped forward\\nthrough the darkness, J till after advancing a few paces\\nthey were happily stopped by a complete barrier of", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "MY FIRST BIVOUAC 113\\ndead, prickly bushes. Before our swords could be\\ndrawn to reap this glorious harvest, it was found to\\nour surprise, that the precious fuel was already hewn,\\nand strewed along the ground in a thick mass. A\\nspot fit for the fire was found with some difficulty, for\\nthe earth was moist, and the grass high, and rank. At\\nlast there was a clicking of flint, and steel, and pre-\\nsently there stood out from darkness one of the tawny\\nfaces of my muleteers, bent down to near the ground,\\nand suddenly lit up by the glowing of the spark, which\\nhe courted with careful breath. Before long there was\\na particle of dry fibre, or leaf, that kindled to a tiny\\nflame then another was lit from that, and then another.\\nThen small, crisp twigs, little bigger than bodkins,\\nwere laid athwart the growing fire. The swelling\\ncheeks of the muleteer laid level with the earth, blew\\ntenderly at first, and then more boldly upon the young\\nflame, which was daintily nursed and fed, and fed more\\nplentifully when it gained good strength. At last a\\nwhole armful of dry bushes was piled up over the fire,\\nand presently with a loud, cheery cracking, and crack-\\nling, a royal tall blaze shot up from the earth, and\\nshewed me once more the shapes, and faces of my\\nmen, and the dim outlines of the horses, and mules, that\\nstood grazing hard by.\\nMy servants busied themselves in unpacking the\\nbaggage, as though we had arrived at an hotel She-\\nreef and his helpers unsaddled their cattle. We had\\nleft Tiberias without the slightest idea that we were to\\nmake our way to Jerusalem along the desolate side of\\nthe Jordan, and my servants (generally provident in\\nthose matters) had brought with them only, I think,\\nsome unleavened bread, and a rocky fragment of goat s\\nmilk cheese. These treasures were produced. Tea,\\nand the contrivances for making it, were always a\\nstanding part of my baggage. My men gathered in\\ncircle around the fire. The Nazarene was in a false\\nposition, from having misled us so strangely, and he\\nwould have shrunk back, poor devil, into the cold and\\nI", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "H4\\nEOTHEN\\nouter darkness, but I made him draw near, and share\\nthe luxuries of the night. My quilt, and my pelisse\\nwere spread, and the rest of my party had all their\\ncapotes, or pelisses, or robes of some sort, which\\nfurnished their couches. The men gathered in circle,\\nsome kneeling, some sitting, some lying reclined around\\nour common hearth. Sometimes on one, sometimes\\non another, the flickering light would glare more\\nfiercely. Sometimes it was the good Shereef that\\nseemed the foremost, as he sat with venerable beard,\\nthe image of manly piety unknowing of all geography,\\nunknowing where he was, or whither he might go, but\\ntrusting in the goodness of God, and the clenching\\npower of fate, and the good star of the Englishman.\\nSometimes like marble, the classic face of the Greek\\nMysseri would catch the sudden light, and then again\\nby turns the ever-perturbed Dthemetri with his odd\\nChinaman s eyes, and bristling, terrier-like moustache\\nshone forth illustrious.\\nI always liked the men who attended me on these\\nEastern travels, for they were all of them brave, cheery-\\nhearted fellows, and although their following my career\\nbrought upon them a pretty large share of those toils,\\nand hardships which are so much more amusing to\\ngentlemen than to servants, yet not one of them ever\\nuttered, or hinted a syllable of complaint, or even\\naffected to put on an air of resignation I always liked\\nthem, but never perhaps so much as when they were\\nthus grouped together under the light of the bivouac\\nfire. I felt towards them as my comrades, rather than\\nas my servants, and took delight in breaking bread\\nwith them, and merrily passing the cup.\\nThe love of tea is a glad source of fellow-feeling\\nbetween the Englishman and the Asiatic in Persia it\\nis drunk by all, and although it is a luxury that is\\nrarely within the reach of the Osmanlees, there are\\nfew of them who do not know, and love the blessed\\ntchai. Our camp-kettle filled from the brook hummed\\ndoubtfully for a while, then busily bubbled under the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "MY FIRST BIVOUAC 115\\nsidelong glare of the flames cups clinked and rattled\\nthe fragrant steam ascended, and soon this little\\ncirclet in the wilderness grew warm, and genial as my\\nlady s drawing-room.\\nAnd after this there came the tchibouque great\\ncomforter of those that are hungry, and way-worn.\\nAnd it has this virtue it helps to destroy the gene and\\nawkwardness which one sometimes feels at being in\\ncompany with one s dependants for whilst the amber\\nis at your lips, there is nothing ungracious in your re-\\nmaining silent, or speaking pithily in short inter-whiff\\nsentences. And for us that night there was pleasant\\nand plentiful matter of talk for the where we should\\nbe on the morrow, and the wherewithal we should be\\nfed whether by some ford we should regain the\\nwestern banks of Jordan, or find bread, and salt under\\nthe tents of a wandering tribe, or whether we should\\nfall into the hands of the Philistines, and so come to\\nsee Death the last, and greatest of all the fine\\nsights that there be these were questionings not\\ndull, nor wearisome to us, for we were all concerned in\\nthe answers. And it was not an all-imagined morrow\\nthat we probed with our sharp guesses, for the lights of\\nthose low Philistines the men of the caves still hung\\nover our heads, and we knew by their yells that the fire\\nof our bivouac had shewn us.\\nAt length we thought it well to seek for sleep. Our\\nplans were laid for keeping up a good watch through\\nthe night. My quilt, and my pelisse, and my cloak\\nwere spread out so that I might lie spoke wise, with my\\nfeet towards the central fire. I wrapped my limbs\\ndaintily round, and gave myself positive orders to sleep\\nlike a veteran soldier. But I found that my attempt to\\nsleep upon the earth that God gave me was more new,\\nand strange than I had fancied it. I had grown used\\nto the scene which was before me whilst I was sitting,\\nor reclining by the side of the fire, but now that I laid\\nmyself down at length, it was the deep black mystery\\nof the heavens that hung over my eyes not an earthly", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "n6\\nEOTHEN\\nthing in the way from my own very forehead right up\\nto the end of all space. I grew proud of my boundless\\nbedchamber. I might have found sermons in all\\nthis greatness, (if I had I should surely have slept) but\\nsuch was not then my way. If this cherished Self of\\nmine had built the Universe, I should have dwelt with\\ndelight on the wonders of creation. As it was, I felt\\nrather the vain-glory of my promotion from out of mere\\nrooms, and houses into the midst of that grand, dark,\\ninfinite palace.\\nAnd then, too, my head, far from the fire, was in cold\\nlatitudes, and it seemed to me strange that I should be\\nlying so still, and passive, whilst the sharp night breeze\\nwalked free over my cheek, and the cold damp clung\\nto my hair, as though my face grew in the earth, and\\nmust bear with the footsteps of the wind, and the fall-\\ning of the dew, as meekly as the grass of the field.\\nBesides, I got puzzled, and distracted by having to\\nendure heat, and cold at the same time, for I was\\nalways considering whether my feet were not over-\\ndevilled, and whether my face was not too well iced.\\nAnd so when from time to time the watch quietly, and\\ngently kept up the languishing fire, he seldom, I think,\\nwas unseen to my restless eyes. Yet, at last, when\\nthey called me, and said that the morn would soon be\\ndawning, I rose from a state of half-oblivion, not much\\nunlike to sleep, though sharply qualified by a sort of\\nvegetable s consciousness of having been growing still\\ncolder, and colder, for many, and many an hour.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIII\\nTHE DEAD SEA\\nTHE gray light of the morning shewed us for the first\\ntime, the ground which we had chosen for our\\nresting place. We found that we had bivouacked upon\\na little patch of barley, plainly belonging to the men\\nof the caves. The dead bushes which we found so\\nhappily placed in readiness for our fire, had been strewn\\nas a fence for the protection of the little crop. This\\nwas the only cultivated spot of ground which we had\\nseen for many a league, and I was rather sorry to find\\nthat our night fire, and our cattle had spread so much\\nruin upon this poor solitary slip of corn land.\\nThe saddling, and loading of our beasts, was a work\\nwhich generally took nearly an hour, and before this\\nwas half over, day light came. We could now see the\\nmen of the caves. They collected in a body, amount-\\ning, I should think, to nearly fifty, and rushed down\\ntowards our quarters with fierce shouts, and yells.\\nBut the nearer they came, the slower they went their\\nshouts grew less resolute in tone, and soon ceased\\naltogether. The fellows advanced to a thicket within\\nthirty yards of us, and behind this took up their\\nposition. My men without premeditation did exactly\\nthat which was best they kept steadily to their work\\nof loading the beasts without fuss, or hurry, and whether\\nit was that they instinctively felt the wisdom of keeping\\nquiet, or that they merely obeyed the natural inclination\\nto silence, which one feels in the early morning I\\ncannot tell, but I know that except when they exchanged", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "n8\\nEOTHEN\\na syllable or two relative to the work they were about,\\nnot a word was said. I now believe, that this quietness\\nof our party created an undefined terror in the minds\\nof the cave-holders, and scared them from coming on\\nit gave them a notion that we were relying on some\\nresources which they knew not of. Several times the\\nfellows tried to lash themselves into a state of excite-\\nment which might do instead of pluck. They would\\nraise a great shout, and sway forward in a dense body\\nfrom behind the thicket but when they saw that their\\nbravery, thus gathered to a head, did not even suspend\\nthe strapping of a portmanteau, or the tying of a hat-\\nbox, their shout lost its spirit, and the whole mass was\\nirresistibly drawn back like a wave receding from the\\nx shore.\\nThese attempts at an onset were repeated several\\ntimes, but always with the same result I remained\\nunder the apprehension of an attack for more than half\\nan hour, and it seemed to me that the work of packing,\\nand loading, had never been done so slowly. I felt\\ninclined to tell my fellows to make their best speed,\\nbut just as I was going to speak, I observed that every\\none was doing his duty already I therefore held my\\npeace, and said not a word, till at last Mysseri led up\\nmy horse, and asked me if I were ready to mount.\\nWe all marched off without hindrance.\\nAfter some time, we came across a party of Ibrahim s\\ncavalry, which had bivouacked at no great distance\\nfrom us. The knowledge that such a force was in the\\nneighbourhood may have conduced to the forbearance\\nof the cave-holders.\\nWe saw a scraggy looking fellow nearly black, and\\nwearing nothing but a cloth round the loins he was\\ntending flocks. Afterwards I came up with another of\\nthese goat-herds, whose helpmate was with him. They\\ngave us some goat s milk, a welcome present. I pitied\\nthe poor devil of a goat-herd for having such a very\\nplain wife. I spend an enormous quantity of pity upon\\nthat particular form of human misery.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "THE DEAD SEA\\n119\\nAbout mid-day I began to examine my map, and to\\nquestion my guide, who at last fell on his knees, and\\nconfessed that he knew nothing of the country in which\\nwe were. I was thus thrown upon my own resources,\\nand calculating that on the preceding day, we had\\nnearly performed a two days journey, I concluded that\\nthe Dead Sea must be near. In this I was right, for\\nat about 3 or 4 o clock in the afternoon, I caught a first\\nsight of its dismal face.\\nI went on, and came near to those waters of Death\\nthey stretched deeply into the southern desert, and\\nbefore me, and all around, as far away as the eye could\\nfollow, blank hills piled high over hills, pale, yellow,\\nand naked, walled up in her tomb for ever, the dead,\\nand damned Gomorrah. There was no fly that\\nhummed in the forbidden air, but instead a deep still-\\nness no grass grew from the earth no weed peered\\nthrough the void sand, but in mockery of all life, there\\nwere trees borne down by Jordan in some ancient\\nflood, and these grotesquely planted upon the forlorn\\nshore, spread out their grim skeleton arms all scorched,\\nand charred to blackness, by the heats of the long, silent\\nyears.\\nI now struck off towards the debouchure of the river\\nbut I found that the country, though seemingly quite\\nflat, was intersected by deep ravines, which did not\\nshew themselves until nearly approached. For some\\ntime my progress was much obstructed but at last I\\ncame across a track which led towards the river, and\\nwhich might, as I hoped, bring me to a ford. I found,\\nin fact, when I came to the river s side, that the track\\nreappeared upon the opposite banks, plainly shewing\\nthat the stream had been fordable at this place. Now,\\nhowever, in consequence of the late rains, the river was\\nquite impracticable for baggage horses. A body of\\nwaters, about equal to the Thames at Eton, but con-\\nfined to a narrower channel, poured down in a current\\nso swift and heavy, that the idea of passing with laden\\nbaggage horses was utterly forbidden. I could have", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "120\\nEOTHEN\\nswum across myself, and I might, perhaps, have\\nsucceeded in swimming a horse over. But this would\\nhave been useless, because in such case I must have\\nabandoned, not only my baggage, but all my attendants,\\nfor none of them were able to swim, and without that\\nresource, it would have been madness for them to rely\\nupon the swimming of their beasts across such a\\npowerful stream. I still hoped, however, that there\\nmight be a chance of passing the river at the point of\\nits actual junction with the Dead Sea, and I therefore\\nwent on in that direction.\\nNight came upon us whilst labouring across gullies,\\nand sandy mounds, and we were obliged to come to a\\nstand-still quite suddenly, upon the very edge of a\\nprecipitous descent. Every step towards the Dead\\nSea had brought us into a country more and more\\ndreary and this sand-hill, which we were forced to\\nchoose for our resting place, was dismal enough. A\\nfew slender blades of grass, which here and there singly\\npierced the sand, mocked bitterly the hunger of our\\njaded beasts, and with our small remaining fragment\\nof goat s milk rock, by way of supper, we were not\\nmuch better off than our horses we wanted, too, the\\ngreat requisite of a cheery bivouac fire. Moreover,\\nthe spot on which we had been so suddenly brought to\\na stand-still was relatively high, and unsheltered, and\\nthe night wind blew swiftly, and cold.\\nThe next morning I reached the debouchure of the\\nJordan, where I had hoped to find a bar of sand that\\nmight render its passage possible. The river, however,\\nrolled its eddying waters fast down to the sea, in a\\nstrong, deep stream that shut out all hope of crossing.\\nIt was always said that no vegetation could live in the\\nneighbourhood of the Dead Sea, but now I began to\\nlook upon my party and myself as forming a very fine\\nplantation; for never in the hunting sense of the\\nterm were men more thoroughly planted.\\nIt now seemed necessary either to construct a raft of\\nsome kind, or else to retrace my steps, and remount", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "THE DEAD SEA\\n121\\nthe banks of the Jordan. I had once happened to give\\nsome attention to the subject of military bridges a\\nbranch of military science which includes the con-\\nstruction of rafts, and contrivances of the like sort, and\\nI should have been very proud indeed, if I could have\\ncarried my party, and my baggage across by dint\\nof any idea gathered from Sir Howard Douglas, or\\nRobinson Crusoe. But we were all faint, and languid\\nfrom want of food, and besides there were no materials.\\nHigher up the river there were bushes, and river plants,\\nbut nothing like timber, and the cord with which my\\nbaggage was tied to the pack-saddles amounted alto-\\ngether to a very small quantity not nearly enough to\\nhaul any sort of craft across the stream.\\nAnd now it was, if I remember rightly, that Dthemetri\\n.uibmitted to me a plan for putting to death the\\nNazarene, whose misguidance had been the cause of\\nour difficulties. There was something fascinating in\\nthis suggestion, for the slaying of the guide was of\\ncourse easy enough, and would look like an act of what\\npol ticians call vigour. If it were only to become\\nknown to my friends in England that I had calmly\\nkilled a fellow creature for taking me out of my way, I\\nmight remain perfectly quiet, and tranquil for all the\\nrest of my days, quite free from the danger of being\\nconsidered slow; I might ever after live on upon\\nmy reputation like single-speech Hamilton in the\\nlast century, or single-sin in this, without being\\nobliged to take the trouble of doing any more harm in\\nthe world. This was a great temptation to an indolent\\nperson, but the motive was not strengthened by any\\nsincere feeling of anger with the Nazarene whilst the\\nquestion of his life, and death was debated, he was\\nriding in front of our party, and there was something\\nin the anxious writhing of his supple limbs that seemed\\nto express a sense of his false position, and struck me\\nas highly comic I had no crotchet at that time against\\nthe punishment of the death, but I was unused to\\njlood, and the proposed victim looked so thoroughly", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "122\\nEOTHEN\\ncapable of enjoying life, (if he could only get to the\\nother side of the river) that I thought it would be hard\\nfor him to die, merely $n order to give me a character\\nfor energy. Acting on the result of these considerations,\\nand reserving to myself a free, and unfettered discretion\\nto have the poor villain shot at any future moment, I\\nmagnanimously decided that for the present he should\\nlive, and not die.\\nI bathed in the Dead Sea. The ground covered by\\nthe water, sloped so gradually, that I was not only\\nforced to sneak in, but to walk through the water\\nnearly a quarter of a mile before I could get out of my\\ndepth. When at last I was able to attempt a dive, the\\nsalts held in solution made my eyes smart so sharply,\\nthat the pain which I thus suffered acceding to the weak-\\nness occasioned by want of food, made me giddy, and\\nfaint for some moments, but I soon grew better. I\\nknew beforehand the impossibility of sinking in this\\nbuoyant water, but I was surprised to find that I could\\nnot swim at my accustomed pace my legs, and feet\\nwere lifted so high and dry out of the lake, that my\\nstroke was baffled, and I found myself kicking against\\nthe thin air, instead of the dense fluid upon which I\\nwas swimming. The water is perfectly bright, and\\nclear its taste detestable. After finishing my attempts\\nat swimming, and diving, I took some time in regain-\\ning the shore, and before I began to dress, I found\\nthat the sun had already evaporated the water which\\nclung to me, and that my skin was thickly encrusted\\nwith sulphate of magnesia. 1\\n1 [Altered to salts in the third edition.]", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIV\\nTHE BLACK TENTS\\nMY steps were reluctantly turned towards the north.\\nI had ridden some way, and still it seemed that\\nall life was fenced, and barred out from the desolate\\nground over which I was journeying. On the west\\nthere flowed the impassable Jordan on the east stood\\nan endless range of barren mountains, and on the south\\nlay that desert sea that knew not the plashing of an\\noar greatly therefore was I surprised, when suddenly\\nthere broke upon my ear the long, ludicrous, persever-\\ning bray of a living donkey. I was riding at this time\\nsome few hundred yards a-head of all my party,\\nexcept the Nazarene, (who by a wise instinct kept\\ncloser to me than to Dthemetri) and I instantly went\\nforward in the direction of the sound, for I fancied that\\nwhere there were donkeys, there too most surely would\\nbe men. The ground on all sides of me seemed\\nthoroughly void and lifeless, but at last I got down into\\na hollow, and presently a sudden turn brought me\\nwithin thirty yards of an Arab encampment. The low,\\nblack tents which I had so long lusted to see were\\nright before me, and they were all teeming with live\\nArabs men, women, and children.\\nI wished to have let my party behind know where I\\nwas, but I recollected that they would be able to trace\\nme by the prints of my horse s hoofs in the sand, and\\nhaving to do with Asiatics, I felt the danger of the\\nslightest movement which might be looked upon as\\na sign of irresolution. Therefore, without looking be-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "124\\nEOTHEN\\nhind me without looking to the right, or to the left, I\\nrode straight up towards the foremost tent. Before\\nthis was strewed a semicircular fence of dead boughs,\\nthrough which there was an opening opposite to the\\nfront of the tent. As I advanced, some twenty or thirty\\nof the most uncouth looking fellows imaginable came\\nforward to meet me. In their appearance they shewed\\nnothing of the Bedouin blood they were of many\\ncolours, from dingy brown to jet black, and some of\\nthese last had much of the negro look about them.\\nThey were tall, powerful fellows, but awfully ugly.\\nThey wore nothing but the Arab shirts, confined at\\nthe waist by leathern belts.\\nI advanced to the gap left in the fence, and at once\\nalighted from my horse. The chief greeted me after\\nhis fashion by alternately touching first my hand and\\nthen his own forehead, as if he were conveying the\\nvirtue of the touch like a spark of electricity. Presently\\nI found myself seated upon a sheep-skin, which was\\nspread for me under the sacred shade of Arabian\\ncanvas. The tent was of a long, narrow, oblong form,\\nand contained a quantity of men, women, and children\\nso closely huddled together, that there was scarcely\\none of them who was not in actual contact with his\\nneighbour. The moment I had taken my seat, the\\nchief repeated his salutations in the most enthusiastic\\nmanner, and then the people having gathered densely\\nabout me, got hold of my unresisting hand, and passed\\nit round like a claret jug for the benefit of everybody.\\nThe women soon brought me a wooden bowl full of\\nbuttermilk, and welcome indeed came the gift to my\\nhungry and thirsty soul.\\nAfter some time my party, as I had expected, came\\nup, and when poor Dthemetri saw me on my sheep-\\nskin, the life and soul of this ragamuffin party, he\\nwas so astounded that he even failed to check his cry\\nof horror he plainly thought that now, at last, the\\nLord had delivered me (interpreter and all) into the\\nhands of the lowest Philistines.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "THE BLACK TENTS\\nMyssert carried a tobacco pouch slung at his belt,\\nand as soon as its contents were known, the whole\\npopulation of the tent began begging like spaniels for\\nbits of the beloved weed. I concluded, from the abject\\nmanner of these people, that they could not possibly\\nbe thorough-bred Bedouins, and I saw, too, that they\\nmust be in the very last stage of misery, for poor in-\\ndeed is the man in these climes who cannot command\\na pipeful of tobacco. I began to think that I had\\nfallen amongst thorough savages, and it seemed likely\\nenough that they would gain their very first knowledge\\nof civilization by ravishing, and studying the contents\\nof my dearest portmanteaus, but still my impression\\nwas that they would hardly venture upon such an\\nattempt I observed, indeed, that they did not offer\\nme the bread and salt, which I had understood to be\\nthe pledges of peace amongst wandering tribes, but I\\nfancied that they refrained from this act of hospitality,\\nnot in consequence of any hostile determination, but in\\norder that the notion of robbing me might remain for\\nthe present an open question. I afterwards found\\nthat the poor fellows had no bread to offer. They were\\nliterally out at grass it is true that they had a\\nscanty supply of milk from goats, but they were living\\nalmost entirely upon certain grass stems, which were\\njust in season at that time of the year. These, if not\\nhighly nourishing, are pleasant enough to the taste,\\nand their acid juices came gratefully to thirsty lips.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XV\\nPASSAGE OF THE JORDAN\\nAND now Dthemetri began to enter into a negotia-\\ntion with my hosts for a passage over the river.\\nI never interfered with my worthy Dragoman upon\\nthese occasions, because from my entire ignorance of\\nthe Arabic, I should have been quite unable to exercise\\nany real control over his words, and it would have been\\nsilly to break the stream of his eloquence to no purpose.\\nI have reason to fear, however, that he lied transcend-\\nantly, and especially in representing me as the bosom\\nfriend of Ibrahim Pasha. The mention of that name\\nproduced immense agitation, and excitement, and the\\nSheik explained to Dthemetri the grounds of the infinite\\nrespect which he and his tribe entertained for the\\nPasha. A few weeks before Ibrahim had craftily sent\\na body of troops across the Jordan. The force went\\nwarily round to the foot of the mountains on the East,\\nso as to cut off the retreat of this tribe, and then sur-\\nrounded them as they lay encamped in the vale their\\ncamels, and indeed all their possessions worth taking,\\nwere carried off by the soldiery, and moreover the then\\nSheik, together with every tenth man of the tribe, was\\nbrought out and shot. You would think that this\\nconduct on the part of the Pasha might not procure\\nfor his friend a very gracious reception amongst the\\npeople whom he had thus despoiled and decimated,\\nbut the Asiatic seems to be animated with a feeling of\\nprofound respect, almost bordering upon affection, for\\nall who have done him any bold, and violent wrong,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN 127\\nand there is always too, so much of vague, and unde-\\nfined apprehension mixed up with his really well-\\nfounded alarms, that I can see no limit to the yielding,\\nand bending of his mind when it is worked upon by\\nthe idea of power.\\nAfter some discussion the Arabs agreed, as I thought,\\nto conduct me to a ford, and we moved on towards the\\nriver, followed by seventeen of the most able-bodied of\\nthe tribe, under the guidance of several gray-bearded\\nelders, and Sheik Ali Djoubran at the head of the whole\\ndetachment. Upon leaving the encampment a sort of\\nceremony was performed, for the purpose it seemed, of\\nensuring, if possible, a happy result for the undertaking.\\nThere was an uplifting of arms, and a repeating of\\nwords, that sounded like formulae, but there were no\\nprostrations, and I did not understand that the\\nceremony was of a religious character. The tented\\nArabs are looked upon as very bad Mahometans.\\nWe arrived upon the banks of the river not at a\\nford, but at a deep and rapid part of the stream, and I\\nnow understood that it was the plan of these men, if\\nthey helped me at all, to transport me across the river\\nby some species of raft. But a reaction had taken\\nplace in the opinions of many, and a violent dispute\\narose, upon a motion which seemed to have been made\\nby some honourable member, with a view to robbery.\\nThe fellows all gathered together in circle, at a little\\ndistance from my party, and there disputed with great\\nvehemence and fury, for nearly two hours. I can J t\\ngive a correct report of the debate, for it was held in a\\nbarbarous dialect of the Arabic, unknown to my\\nDragoman. I recollect, I sincerely felt at the time,\\nthat the arguments in favour of robbing me must have\\nbeen almost unanswerable, and I gave great credit to\\nthe speakers on my side for the ingenuity, and sophistry\\nwhich they must have shewn in maintaining the fight\\nso well.\\nDuring the discussion, I remained lying in front of\\nmy baggage, which had all been taken from the pack-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "128\\nEOTHEN\\nsaddles, and placed upon the ground. I was so languid\\nfrom want of food, that I had scarcely animation enough\\nto feel as deeply interested as you would suppose, in\\nthe result of the discussion. I thought, however, that\\nthe pleasantest toys to play with, during this interval,\\nwere my pistols, and now and then, when I listlessly\\nvisited my loaded barrels with the swivel ramrods, or\\ndrew a sweet, musical click from my English firelocks,\\nit seemed to me, that I exercised a slight, and gentle\\ninfluence on the debate. Thanks to Ibrahim Pasha s\\nterrible visitation, the men of the tribe were wholly un-\\narmed, and my advantage in this respect might have\\ncounterbalanced in some measure the superiority of\\nnumbers.\\nMysseri (not interpreting in Arabic) had no duty to\\nperform, and he seemed to be faint, and listless as my-\\nself. Shereef looked perfectly resigned to any fate.\\nBut Dthemetri (faithful terrier was bristling with zeal,\\nand watchfulness he could not understand the debate,\\nwhich indeed was carried on at a distance too great to\\nbe easily heard, even if the language had been familiar\\nbut he was always on the alert, and now and then\\nconferring with men who had straggled out of the as-\\nsembly at last he found an opportunity of making a\\nproposal, which at once produced immense sensation\\nhe offered, on my behalf, that if the tribe should bear\\nthemselves loyally towards me, and take my party, and\\nmy baggage in safety to the other bank of the river, I\\nshould give them a teskeri, or written certificate of\\ntheir good conduct, which might avail them hereafter\\nin the hour of their direst need. This proposal was re-\\nceived, and instantly accepted by all the men of the\\ntribe, there present, with the utmost enthusiasm. I was\\nto give the men, too, a baksheish, that is, a present\\nof money, which is usually made upon the conclusion\\nof any sort of treaty but, although the people of the\\ntribe were so miserably poor, they seemed to look upon\\nthe pecuniary part of the arrangement as a matter quite\\ntrivial in comparison with the teskeri. Indeed the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN 129\\nsum which Dthemetri promised them was extremely\\nsmall, and not the slightest attempt was made to extort\\nany further reward.\\nThe Council now broke up, and most of the men\\nrushed madly towards me, and overwhelmed me with\\nvehement gratulations they caressed my boots with\\nmuch affection, and my hands were severely kissed.\\nThe Arabs now went to work in right earnest to effect\\nthe passage of the river. They had brought with them\\na great number of the skins which they use for carry-\\ning water in the desert these they filled with air, and\\nfastened several of them to small boughs which they\\ncut from the banks of the river. In this way they con-\\nstructed a raft not more than about four feet square,\\nbut rendered buoyant by the inflated skins which sup-\\nported it. On this a portion of my baggage was placed,\\nand was firmly tied to it by the cords used on my pack-\\nsaddles. The little raft, with its weighty cargo, was\\nthen gently lifted into the water, and I had the satis-\\nfaction to see that it floated well.\\nTwelve of the Arabs now stripped, and tied inflated\\nskins to their loins six of the men went down into the\\nriver, got in front of the little raft, and pulled it off a few\\nfeet from the bank. The other six then dashed into\\nthe stream with loud shouts, and swam along after the\\nraft, pushing it from behind. Off went the craft in\\ncapital style at first, for the stream was easy on the\\neastern side, but I saw that the tug was to come, for the\\nmain torrent swept round in a bend near the western\\nbanks of the river.\\nThe old men with their long gray grisly beards stood\\nshouting and cheering, praying and commanding. At\\nlength the raft entered upon the difficult part of its\\ncourse the whirling stream seized, and twisted it about,\\nand then bore it rapidly downwards the swimmers\\nflagged, and seemed to be beat in the struggle. But\\nnow the old men on the bank, with their rigid arms up-\\nlifted straight, sent forth a cry, and a shout that tore\\nthe wide air into tatters, and then to make their urging\\nK", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "130\\nEOTHEN\\nyet more strong, they shreiked out the dreadful syllables\\nbrahim Pasha The swimmers, one moment before\\nso blown, and so weary, found lungs to answer the cry,\\nand shouting back the name of their great destroyer,,\\nthey dashed on through the torrent, and bore the raft;\\nin safety to the western bank.\\nAfterwards the swimmers returned with the raft, and\\nattached to it the rest of my baggage. I took my seat\\nupon the top of the cargo, and the raft thus laden, passed\\nthe river in the same way, and with the same struggle\\nas before. The skins, however, not being perfectly air\\ntight, had lost a great part of their buoyancy, so that I,\\nas well as the luggage that passed on this last voyage,\\ngot wet in the waters of Jordan. The raft could not be\\ntrusted for another trip, and the rest of my party passed\\nthe river in a different, and (for them) much safer way.\\nInflated skins were fastened to their loins, and thus\\nsupported, they were tugged across by Arabs swimming\\non either side of them. The horses and mules were\\nthrown into the water, and forced to swim over the\\npoor beasts had a hard struggle for their lives in that\\nswift stream, and I thought that one of the horses would\\nhave been drowned, for he was too weak to gain a foot-\\ning on the western bank, and the stream bore him down.\\nAt last, however, he swam back to the side from which\\nhe had come. Before dark all had passed the river\\nexcept this one horse, and old Shereef. He, poor fellow,\\nwas shivering on the eastern bank, for his dread of the\\npassage was so great, that he delayed it as long as he\\ncould, and at last it became so dark, that he was obliged\\nto wait till the morning.\\nI lay that night on the banks of the river, and at a\\nlittle distance from me the Arabs made a fire, round\\nwhich they sat in a circle. They were made most sav-\\nagely happy by the tobacco with which I supplied them,\\nand they had determined to make the whole night one\\nsmoking festival, The poor fellows had only one broken\\nbowl, without any tube at all, but this morsel of a pipe\\nthey passed round from one to the other, allowing to", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "PASSAGE OF THE JORDAN 131\\neach a fixed number of whiffs. In that way they passed\\nthe whole night.\\nThe next morning old Shereef was brought across.\\nIt was a strange sight to see this solemn old Mussul-\\nman with his shaven head, and his sacred beard, sprawl-\\ning, and puffing upon the surface of the water. When\\nat last he reached the bank, the people told him that,\\nby his baptism in Jordan, he had surely become a mere\\nChristian. Poor Shereef the holy man the de-\\nscendant of the Prophet he was sadly hurt by the\\ntaunt, and the more so as he seemed to feel there was\\nsome foundation for it, and that he really may have\\nabsorbed some Christian errors.\\nWhen all was ready for departure, I wrote the\\nTeskeri in French, and delivered it to Sheik Ali\\nDjoubran, together with the promised baksheish\\nhe was exceedingly grateful, and I parted upon very\\ngood terms from this ragged tribe.\\nIn two or three hours I gained Rihah, a village which\\nis said to occupy the site of ancient Jericho. There\\nwas one building there which I observed with some\\nemotion, for although it may not have been actually\\nstanding in the days of Jericho, it contained at this day\\na most interesting collection of modern loaves.\\nSome hours after sun-set I reached the Convent of\\nSanta Saba, and there remained for the night.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVI\\nTERRA SANTA\\nTHE enthusiasm that had glowed, or seemed to\\nglow, within me, for one blessed moment, when\\nI knelt by the shrine of the Blessed Virgin at Nazareth,\\nwas not rekindled at Jerusalem. In the stead of the\\nsolemn gloom, and the deep stillness that of right be-\\nlonged to the Holy City, there was the hum, and the\\nbustle of active life. It was the height of the season.\\nThe Easter ceremonies drew near the Pilgrims were\\nflocking in from all quarters, and although their objects\\nwere partly at least of a religious character, yet their\\narrivals brought as much stir, and liveliness to the\\ncity, as if they had come up to marry their daughters.\\nThe votaries who every year crowd to the Holy\\nSepulchre are chiefly of the Greek, and Armenian\\nChurches. They are not drawn into Palestine by a\\nmere longing to stand upon the ground trodden by our\\nSaviour, but rather they perform the pilgrimage as\\na plain duty, which is strongly inculcated by their\\nreligion. A very great proportion of those who belong\\nto the Greek Church, contrive at some time or other,\\nin the course of their lives, to achieve the enterprise.\\nMany in their infancy and childhood, are brought to\\nthe holy sites by their parents, but those who have not\\nhad this advantage will often make it the main object\\nof their lives to save money enough for this holy\\nundertaking.\\nThe Pilgrims begin to arrive in Palestine some weeks\\nbefore the Easter festival of the Greek Church they", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA 133\\ncome from Egypt from all parts of Syria\u00e2\u0080\u0094 from\\nArmenia, and Asia Minor\u00e2\u0080\u0094from Stamboul, from\\nRoumelia, from the provinces of the Danube, and\\nfrom all the Russias, Most of these people bring with\\nthem some articles of merchandise, but I myself be-\\nlieve, (notwithstanding the common taunt against pil-\\ngrims,) that they do this rather as a mode of paying\\nthe expenses of their journey, than from a spirit of\\nmercenary speculation they generally travel in families,\\nfor the women are of course more ardent than their\\nhusbands in undertaking these pious enterprises, and\\nthey take care to bring with them all their children,\\nhowever young, for the efficacy of the rites does not\\ndepend upon the age of the votary, so that people\\nwhose careful mothers have obtained for them the\\nbenefit of the pilgrimage in early life, are saved from\\nthe expense, and trouble of undertaking the journey at\\na later age. The superior veneration so often excited\\nby objects that are distant, and unknown, shews not\\nperhaps the wrongheadedness of a man, but rather the\\ntranscendant power of his Imagination however this\\nmay be, and whether it is by mere obstinacy that they\\npoke their way through intervening distance, or whether\\nthey come by the winged strength of Fancy, quite\\ncertainly the Pilgrims who flock to Palestine from\\nthe most remote homes are the people most eager\\nin the enterprise, and in number too they bear a\\nvery high proportion to the whole mass.\\nThe great bulk of the Pilgrims make their way by\\nsea to the port of Jaffa. A number of families will\\ncharter a vessel amongst them, all bringing their own\\nprovisions, which are of the simplest, and cheapest\\nkind. On board even/ vessel thus freighted, there is,\\nI believe, a Priest, who helps the people in their\\nreligious exercises, and tries, (and fails) to maintain\\nsomething like order, and harmony. The vessels em-\\noyed in this service are usually Greek brigs, or brigan-\\nnes, and schooners, and the number of passengers\\ntowed in them is almost always horribly excessive.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "134\\nEOTHEN\\nThe voyages are sadly protracted, not only by the\\nland-seeking, storm-flying habits of the Greek seamen,\\nbut also by their endless scheme 3, and speculations,\\nwhich are for ever tempting them to touch at the\\nnearest port. The voyage, too, must be made in\\nwinter, in order that Jerusalem may be reached some\\nweeks before the Greek Easter, and thus by the time\\nthey attain to the holy shrines, the Pilgrims have really,\\nand truly undergone a very respectable quantity of\\nsuffering. I once saw one of these pious cargoes put\\nashore on the coast of Cyprus, where they had touched\\nfor the purpose of visiting (not Paphos, but) some\\nChristian sanctuary. I never saw (no, never even in\\nthe most horridly stuffy ball room) such a discomfort-\\nable collection of human beings. Long huddled to-\\ngether in a pitching, and rolling prison fed on beans\\nexposed to some real danger, and to terrors without\\nend, they had been tumbled about for many wintry\\nweeks in the chopping seas of the Mediterranean as\\nsoon as they landed, they stood upon the t beach,\\nand chaunted a hymn of thanks; the chaunt was\\nmorne, and doleful, but really the poor people were\\nlooking so miserable, that one could not fairly expect\\nfrom them any lively outpouring of gratitude.\\nWhen the Pilgrims have landed at Jaffa, they hire\\ncamels, horses, mules or donkeys, and make their way\\nas well as they can to the Holy City. The space\\nfronting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, soon\\nbecomes a kind of Bazaar, or rather perhaps reminds\\nyou of an English Fair. On this spot the Pilgrims\\ndisplay their merchandise, and there too the trading\\nresidents of the place offer their goods for sale. I\\nhave never, I think, seen elsewhere in Asia, so much\\ncommercial animation as upon this square of ground\\nby the Church door the money-changers, seemed\\nto be almost as brisk, and lively as if they had been\\nwithin the Temple.\\nWhen I entered the Church, I found a Babel c\\nworshippers. Greek, Roman, and Armenian priest.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n135\\nwere performing their different rites in various nooks,\\nand corners, and crowds of disciples were rushing\\nabout in all directions, some laughing, and talking,\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094some begging, but most of them going about in\\na regular, and methodical way to kiss the sanctified\\nspots, and speak the appointed syllables, and lay down\\nthe accustomed coin. If this kissing of the shrines\\nhad seemed as though it were done at the bidding of\\nEnthusiasm, or of any poor sentiment, even feebly\\napproaching to it, the sight would have been less odd\\nto English eyes but as it was, I stared to see grown\\nmen thus steadily, and carefully embracing the sticks,\\nand the stones not from love or from zeal, (else God\\nforbid that 1 should have stared,) but from a calm\\nsense of duty they seemed to be not working out,\\nbut transacting the great business of Salvation.\\nDthemetri, however, who generally came with me\\nwhen I went out, in order to do duty as interpreter,\\nreally had in him some enthusiasm he was a zealous,\\nand almost fanatical member of the Greek Church,\\nand had long since performed the pilgrimage, so now\\ngreat indeed was the pride, and delight with which he\\nguided me from one holy spot to another. Every now\\nand then, when he came to an unoccupied shrine, he\\nfell down on his knees, and performed devotion he\\nwas almost distracted by the temptations that sur-\\nrounded him there were so many stones absolutely\\nrequiring to be kissed, that he rushed about happily\\npuzzled, and sweetly teazed, like Jack among the\\nmaidens.\\nA Protestant, familiar with the Holy Scriptures but\\nignorant of tradition, and the geography of Modern\\nJerusalem, finds himself a good deal mazed when\\nhe first looks for the sacred sites. The Holy Sepul-\\nchre is not in a field without the wails, but in the\\nmidst, and in the best part of the town under the roof\\nof the great Church which I have been talking about\\nit is a handsome tomb of oblong form, partly sub-\\nterranean, and partly above ground; and closed in on", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "136\\nEOTHEN\\nall sides, except the one by which it is entered. You\\ndescend into the interior by a few steps, and there\\nfind an altar with burning tapers. This is the spot\\nwhich is held in greater sanctity than any other at\\nJerusalem. When you have seen enough of it, you\\nfeel perhaps weary of the busy crowd, and inclined for\\na gallop you ask your Dragoman, whether there will\\nbe time before sunset to procure horses, and take a\\nride to Mount Calvary. Mount Calvary, Signor?\\neccolo it is upstairs on the first floor. In effect you\\nascend, if I remember rightly, just thirteen steps, and\\nthen you are shewn the now golden sockets in which\\nthe crosses of our Lord, and the two thieves were\\nfixed. All this is startling, but the truth is, that the\\ncity having gathered round the Sepulchre, which is the\\nmain point of interest, has crept northward, and thus\\nin great measure are occasioned the many geogra-\\nphical surprises which puzzle the Bible Christian.\\nThe church of the Holy Sepulchre comprises very\\ncompendiously almost all the spots associated with the\\nclosing career of our Lord. Just there, on your right,\\nhe stood and wept by the pillar on your left he was\\nscourged on the spot just before you he was crowned\\nwith the crown of thorns up there he was crucified,\\nand down here he was buried. A locality is assigned\\nto every the minutest event connected with the recorded\\nhistory of our Saviour even the spot where the cock\\ncrew, when Peter denied his Master is ascertained, and\\nsurrounded by the walls of an Armenian convent.\\nMany Protestants are wont to treat these traditions\\ncontemptuously, and those who distinguish themselves\\nfrom their brethren by the appellation of Bible Chris-\\ntians, are almost fierce in their denunciation of these\\nsupposed errors.\\nIt is admitted, I believe, by every body, that the\\nformal sanctification of these spots was the act of the\\nEmpress Helena, the mother of Constantine, but I\\nthink it is fair to suppose that she was guided by a care-\\nful regard to the then prevailing traditions. Now the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n137\\nnature of the ground upon which Jerusalem stands, is\\nsuch that the localities belonging to the events there\\nenacted might have been more easily, and permanently\\nascertained by tradition, than those of any city that I\\nknow of. Jerusalem, whether ancient, or modern, was\\nbuilt upon and surrounded by sharp, salient rocks,\\nintersected by deep ravines. Up to the time of the\\nsiege, Mount Calvary of course must have been well\\nenough known to the people of Jerusalem the de-\\nstruction of the mere buildings could not have ob-\\nliterated from any man s memory the names of those\\nsteep rocks, and narrow ravines in the midst of which\\nthe city had stood. It seems to me therefore highly\\nprobable that in fixing the site of Calvary, the Empress\\nwas rightly guided. Recollect, too, that the voice of\\ntradition at Jerusalem is quite unanimous, and that\\nRomans, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews, all hating\\neach other sincerely, concur in assigning the same\\nlocalities to the events told in the Gospel. I concede,\\nhowever, that the attempt of the Empress to ascertain\\nthe sites of the minor events cannot be safely relied\\nupon. With respect, for instance, to the certainty of\\nthe spot where the cock crew, I am far from being\\nconvinced.\\nSupposing that the Empress acted arbitrarily in\\nfixing the holy sites, it would seem that she followed\\nthe Gospel of St. John, and that the geography\\nsanctioned by her, can be more easily reconciled with\\nthat history, than with the accounts of the other\\nEvangelists.\\nThe authority exercised by the Mussulman Govern-\\nment in relation to the Holy sites, is in one view some-\\nwhat humbling to the Christians, for it is almost as an\\narbitrator between the contending sects, (this always\\nof course fofcthe sake of pecuniary advantage,) that\\nthe Mussulman lends his contemptuous aid he not\\nonly grants, but enforces toleration. All persons, of\\nwhatever religion, are allowed to go as they will into\\nevery part of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, but in", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "138\\nEOTHEN\\norder to prevent indecent contests, and also from\\nmotives arising out of money payments, the Turkish\\nGovernment assigns the peculiar care of each sacred\\nspot to one of the ecclesiastic bodies. Since this\\nguardianship carries with it the receipt of the coins\\nwhich the pilgrims leave upon the shrines, it is\\nstrenuously fought for by all the rival Churches, and\\nthe artifices of intrigue are busily exerted at Stamboul\\nin order to procure the issue, or revocation of the\\nFirmans, by which the coveted privilege is granted.\\nIn this strife the Greek Church has of late years\\nsignally triumphed, and the most famous of the shrines\\nare committed to the care of their priesthood. They\\npossess the golden socket in which stood the cross of\\nour Lord, whilst the Latins are obliged to content\\nthemselves with the apertures in which were inserted\\nthe crosses of the two thieves they are naturally dis-\\ncontented with that poor privilege, and sorrowfully\\nlook back to the days of their former glory the days\\nwhen Napoleon was Emperor, and Sebastiani was\\nminister at the Porte. It seems that the citizen\\nSultan, old Louis Philippe, has done very little indeed\\nfor Holy Church in Palestine.\\nAlthough the Pilgrims perform their devotions at the\\nseveral shrines with so little apparent enthusiasm, they\\nare driven to the verge of madness by the miracle\\nwhich is displayed to them on Easter Saturday. Then\\nit is that the heaven-sent fire issues from the Holy\\nSepulchre. The Pilgrims all assemble in the great\\nChurch, and already, long before the wonder is worked,\\nthey are wrought by anticipation of God s sign, as well\\nas by their struggles for room, and breathing space, to\\na most frightful state of excitement. At length the\\nChief Priest of the Greeks, accompanied (of all people\\nin the world) by the Turkish Governor, enters the tomb.\\nAfter this there is a long pause, and then suddenly\\nfrom out of the small apertures on either side of the\\nSepulchre, there issue long, shining flames. The\\npilgrims now rush forward, madly struggling to light", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n139\\ntheir tapers at the holy fire. This is the dangerous\\nmoment, and many lives are often lost.\\nThe year before that of my going to Jerusalem,\\nIbrahim Pasha, from some whim, or motive of policy,\\nchose to witness the miracle. The vast Church was of\\ncourse thronged, as it always is on that awful day. It\\nseems that the appearance of the fire was delayed for a\\nvery long time, and that the growing frenzy of the\\npeople was heightened by suspense. Many, too, had\\nalready sunk under the effect of the heat, and the\\nstifling atmosphere, when at last the fire flashed from\\nthe Sepulchre. Then a terrible struggle ensued many\\nsunk, and were crushed. Ibrahim had taken his station\\nin one of the galleries, but now, feeling perhaps his\\nbrave blood warmed by the sight, and sound of such\\nstrife, he took upon himself to quiet the people by his\\npersonal presence, and descended into the body of the\\nChurch with only a few guards he had forced his way\\ninto the midst of the dense crowd, when unhappily he\\nfainted away his guards shrieked out, and the event\\ninstantly became known. A body of soldiers recklessly\\nforced their way through the crowd, trampling over\\nevery obstacle that they might save the life of their\\ngeneral. Nearly two hundred people were killed in\\nthe struggle.\\nThe following year, however, the Government took\\nbetter measures for the prevention of these calamities.\\nI was not present at the ceremony, having gone away\\nfrom Jerusalem some time before, but I afterwards\\nreturned into Palestine, and I then learned, that the day\\nhad passed off without any disturbance of a fatal kind.\\nIt is, however, almost too much to expect that so many\\nministers of peace can assemble without finding some\\noccasion for strife, and in that year a tribe of wild\\nBedouins became the subject of discord these men, it\\nseems, led an Arab life in some of the desert tracts\\nbordering on the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, but\\nwere not connected with any of the great ruling tribes.\\nSome whim, or notion of policy had induced them to", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nembrace Christianity, but they were grossly ignorant\\nof the rudiments of their adopted faith, and having no\\npriests with them in their desert, they had as little\\nknowledge of religious ceremonies, as of Religion it-\\nself they were not even capable of conducting them-\\nselves in a place of worship with ordinary decorum, but\\nwould interrupt the service with scandalous cries, and\\nwarlike shouts. Such is the account the Latins give\\nof them, but I have never heard the other side of the\\nquestion. These wild fellows, notwithstanding their\\nentire ignorance of all religion, are yet claimed by the\\nGreeks, not only as proselytes who have embraced\\nChristianity generally, but as converts to the particular\\ndoctrines, and practice of their church. The people\\nthus alleged to have concurred in the great schism of\\nthe Eastern Empire, are never, I believe, within the\\nwalls of a church, or even of any building at all, except\\nupon this occasion of Easter, and as they then never\\nfail to find a row of some kind going on by the side of\\nthe Sepulchre, they fancy, it seems, that the ceremonies\\nthere enacted are funeral games, of a martial character,\\nheld in honour of a deceased chieftain, and that a\\nChristian festival is a peculiar kind of battle, fought\\nbetween walls, and without cavalry. It does not appear,\\nhowever, that these men are guilty of any ferocious acts,\\nor that they attempt to commit depredations. The\\ncharge against them is merely, that by their way of\\napplauding the performance by Tfheir horrible cries,\\nand frightful gestures, they destroy the solemnity of\\ndivine service, and upon this ground the Franciscans\\nobtained a firman, for the exclusion of such tumultuous\\nworshippers. The Greeks, however, did not choose to\\nlose the aid of their wild converts, merely because they\\nwere a little backward in their religious education, and\\nthey therefore persuaded them to defy the firman by\\nentering the city en masse, and over-awing their\\nenemies. The Franciscans, as well as the government\\nauthorities were obliged to give way, and the Arabs\\ntriumphantly marched into the church. The festival,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n141\\nhowever, must have seemed to them rather flat, for\\nalthough there may have been some casualties in\\nthe way of eyes black, and noses bloody, and women\\nmissing, there was no return of killed.\\nFormerly the Latin Catholics concurred in acknow-\\nledging, (but not I hope in working,) the annual\\nmiracle of the heavenly fire, but they have for many\\nyears withdrawn their countenance from this exhibition,\\nand they now repudiate it as a trick of the Greek\\nchurch. Thus, of course, the violence of feeling with\\nwhich the rival churches meet at the Holy Sepulchre,\\non Easter Saturday, is greatly increased, and a dis-\\nturbance of some kind is certain. In the year I speak\\nof, though no lives were lost, there was, as it seems, a\\ntough struggle in the church. I was amused at hearing\\nof a taunt that was thrown that day upon an English\\ntraveller he had taken his station in a convenient part\\nof the church, and was no doubt displaying that\\npeculiar air of serenity and gratification with which an\\nEnglish gentleman usually looks on at a row, when one\\nof the Franciscans came by, all reeking from the fight,\\nand was so disgusted at the coolness, and placid con-\\ntentment of the Englishman, (who was a guest at the\\nconvent,) that he forgot his monkish humility, as well\\nas the duties of hospitality, and plainly said, You\\nsleep under our roof you eat our bread you drink\\nour wine, and then when Easter Saturday comes, you\\ndon t fight for us\\nYet these rival churches go on quietly enough till\\ntheir blood is up. The terms on which they live re-\\nmind one of the peculiar relation subsisting at Cam-\\nbridge between town, and gown.\\nThese contests, and disturbances, certainly do not\\noriginate with the lay-pilgrims, the great body of\\nwhom are, as I believe, quiet, and inoffensive people\\nit is true, however that their pious enterprise is be-\\nlieved by them to operate as a counterpoise for a\\nmultitude of sins, whether past, or future, and perhaps\\nthey exert themselves in after life to restore the balance", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "142\\nEOTHEN\\nof good, and evil. The Turks have a maxim, which,\\nlike most cynical apothegms carries with it the buzzing\\ntrumpet of falsehood, as well as the small, fine sting\\nof truth. If your friend has made the pilgrimage\\nonce, distrust him if he has made the pilgrimage\\ntwice, cut him dead The caution is said to be as\\napplicable to the visitants of Jerusalem, as to those of\\nMecca, but I cannot help believing that the frailties of\\nall the Hadjis, 1 whether Christian, or Mahometan, are\\ngreatly exaggerated. I certainly regarded the pilgrims\\nto Palestine as a well-disposed, orderly body of people,\\nnot strongly enthusiastic, but desirous to comply with\\nthe ordinances of their religion, and to attain the great\\nend of salvation as quietly, and economically as\\npossible.\\nWhen the solemnities of Easter are concluded, the\\npilgrims move off in a body to complete their good\\nwork, by visiting the sacred scenes in the neighbour-\\nhood of Jerusalem, including the Wilderness of John\\nthe Baptist, Bethlehem, and above all the Jordan, for\\nto bathe in those sacred waters is one of the chief\\nobjects of the expedition. All the pilgrims men,\\nwomen, and children, are submerged, en chemise, and\\nthe saturated linen is carefully wrapped up, and pre-\\nserved as a burial dress that shall inure for salvation\\nin the realms of death.\\nI saw the burial of a pilgrim he was a Greek\\nmiserably poor, and very old\u00e2\u0080\u0094 he had just crawled into\\nthe Holy City, and had reached at once the goal of his\\npious journey, and the end of his sufferings upon earth\\nthere was no coffin, nor wrapper, and as I looked full\\nupon the face of the dead, I saw how deeply it was\\nrutted with the ruts of age, and misery. The priest,\\nstrong, and portly, fresh, fat, and alive with the life of\\nthe animal kingdom unpaid, or ill paid for his work,\\nwould scarcely deign to mutter out his forms, but\\nhurried over the words with shocking haste presently\\nhe called out impatiently Yalla Goor (Come\\n1 Hadji a pilgrim.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n143\\nlook sharp and then the dead Greek was seized his\\nlimbs yielded inertly to the rude men that handled them,\\nand down he went into his grave, so roughly bundled\\nin, that his neck was twisted by the fall, so twisted,\\nthat if the sharp malady of life were still upon him, the\\nold man would have shrieked, and groaned, and the\\nlines of his face would have quivered with pain the\\nlines of his face were not moved, and the old man lay\\nstill, and heedless so well cured of that tedious life-\\nache, that nothing could hurt him now. His clay was\\nitself again cool, firm, and tough. The pilgrim had\\nfound great rest I threw the accustomed handful of\\nthe holy soil upon his patient face, and then, and in less\\nthan a minute, the earth closed coldly round him.\\nI did not say Alas (nobody ever does that I\\nknow of, though the word is so frequently written). I\\nthought the old man had got rather well out of the\\nscrape of being alive, and poor.\\nThe destruction of the mere buildings in such a place\\nas Jerusalem, would not involve the permanent disper-\\nsion of the inhabitants, for the rocky neighbourhood in\\nwhich the town is situate abounds in caves, which\\nwould give an easy refuge to the people, until they\\ngained an opportunity of rebuilding their dwellings.\\nTherefore I could not help looking upon the Jews of\\nJerusalem, as being in some sort the representatives, if\\nnot the actual descendants of the rascals who crucified\\nour Saviour. Supposing this to be the case, I felt that\\nthere would be some interest in knowing how the\\nevents of the Gospel History were regarded by the\\nIsraelites of modern Jerusalem. The result of my in-\\nquiry upon this subject, was, so far as it went, entirely\\nfavourable to the truth of Christianity. I understood\\nthat the performance of the miracles was 7iot doubted by\\nany of the Jews in the place; all of them concurred in\\nattributing the works of our Lord to the influence of\\nmagic, but they were divided as to the species of\\nenchantment from which the power proceeded the\\ngreat mass of the Jewish people believed, I fancy, that", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "144\\nEOTHEN\\nthe miracles had been wrought by aid of the powers of\\ndarkness, but many, and those the more enlightened,\\nwould call Jesus the good Magician. To Europeans\\nrepudiating the notion of all magic, good, or bad, the\\nopinion of the Jews as to the agency by which the\\nmiracles were worked, is a matter of no importance,\\nbut the circumstance of their admitting that those\\nmiracles were in fact performed, is certainly curious,\\nand perhaps not quite immaterial.\\nIf you stay in the Holy City long enough to fall\\ninto anything like regular habits of amusement and\\noccupation, and to become in short for the time a\\nman about town at Jerusalem, you will necessarily\\nlose the enthusiasm which you may have felt when\\nyou trod the sacred soil for the first time, and it will\\nthen seem almost strange to you to find yourself so\\nthoroughly surrounded in all your daily pursuits by the\\nsigns, and sounds of religion. Your Hotel is a monas-\\ntery your rooms are cells the landlord is a stately\\nabbot and the waiters are hooded monks. If you walk\\nout of the town you find yourself on the Mount of\\nOlives, or in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, or on the Hill\\nof Evil Counsel. If you mount your horse and extend\\nyour rambles, you will be guided to the wilderness of\\nSt. John, or the birth-place of our Saviour. Your club\\nis the great Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where\\neverybody meets everybody every day. If you lounge\\nthrough the town, your Bond Street is the Via Dolo-\\nrosa, and the object of your hopeless affections is some\\nmaid, or matron all forlorn, and sadly shrouded in her\\npilgrim s robe. If you would hear music, it must be\\nthe chaunting of friars if you look at pictures, you see\\nVirgins with mis-foreshortened arms, or devils out of\\ndrawing, or angels tumbling up the skies in impious\\nperspective. If you would make any purchases you\\nmust go again to the Church doors, and when you in-\\nquire for the manufactures of the place, you find that\\nthey consist of double-blessed beads, and sanctified\\nshells. These last are the favourite tokens which the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n145\\npilgrims carry off with them the shell is graven or\\nrather scratched on the white side with a rude drawing\\nof the Blessed Virgin, or of the Crucifixion, or some\\nother scriptural subject and having passed this stage,\\nit goes into the hands of a priest by him it is sub-\\njected to some process for rendering it efficacious\\nagainst the schemes of our ghostly enemy the manu-\\nfacture is then complete, and is deemed to be fit for\\nuse.\\nThe village of Bethlehem lies prettily couched on the\\nslope of a hill. The sanctuary is a subterranean\\ngrotto, and is committed to the joint-guardianship of\\nthe Romans, Greeks, and Armenians, who vie with\\neach other in adorning it. Beneath an altar gorgeously\\ndecorated, and lit with everlasting fires there stands\\nthe low slab of stone which marks the holy site of the\\nNativity and near to this is a hollow scooped out of\\nthe living rock. Here the infant Jesus was laid. Near\\nthe spot of the Nativity is the rock against which the\\nBlessed Virgin was leaning when she presented her\\nbabe to the adoring shepherds.\\nMany of those Protestants who are accustomed to\\ndespise tradition, consider that this sanctuary is alto-\\ngether unscriptural that a grotto is not a stable, and\\nthat mangers are made of wood. It is perfectly true,\\nhowever, that the many grottos, and caves which are\\nfound among the rocks of Judea were formerly used\\nfor the reception of cattle; they are so used at this\\nday I have myself seen grottos appropriated to this\\npurpose.\\nYou know what a sad, and sombre decorum it is\\nthat outwardly reigns through the lands oppressed by\\nMoslem sway. The Mahometans make beauty their\\nprisoner, and enforce such a stern, and gloomy mo-\\nrality, or at all events, such a frightfully close sem-\\nblance of it, that far and long the wearied traveller\\nmay go, without catching one glimpse of outward hap-\\npiness. By a strange chance in these latter days, it\\nhappened, that alone of all the places in the land, this", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "146\\nEOTHEN\\nBethlehem, the native village of our Lord, escaped the\\nmoral yoke of the Mussulmans, and heard again, after\\nages of dull oppression, the cheering clatter of social\\nfreedom, and the voices of laughing girls. It was after\\nan insurrection which had been raised against the\\nauthority of Mehemet Ali, that Bethlehem was freed\\nfrom the hateful laws of Asiatic decorum. The Mus-\\nsulmans of the village had taken an active part in the\\nmovement, and when Ibrahim had quelled it, his wrath\\nwas still so hot, that he put to death every one of the\\nfew Mahometans of Bethlehem who had not already\\nfled. The effect produced upon the Christian in-\\nhabitants, by the sudden removal of this restraint, was\\nimmense. The village smiled once more. It is true\\nthat such sweet freedom could not long endure. Even\\nif the population of the place should continue to be\\nentirely Christian, the sad decorum of the Mussulmans,\\nor rather of the Asiatics, would sooner, or later be\\nrestored by the force of opinion, and custom. But for\\na while the sunshine would last, and when I was at\\nBethlehem, though long after the flight of the Mussul-\\nmans, the cloud of Moslem propriety had not yet come\\nback to cast its cold shadow upon life. When you\\nreach that gladsome village, pray Heaven, there still\\nmay be heard there, the voice of free, innocent girls.\\nIt will sound so dearly welcome\\nTo a Christian, and thorough-bred Englishman, not\\neven the licentiousness which generally accompanies\\nit, can compensate for the oppressiveness of that\\nhorrible outward decorum, which turns the cities and\\nthe palaces of Asia into deserts, and gaols. So, I say,\\nwhen you see, and hear them, those romping girls of\\nBethlehem will gladden your very soul. Distant at\\nfirst, and then nearer, and nearer the timid flock will\\ngather around you with their large burning eyes\\ngravely fixed against yours, so that they see into your\\nbrain, and if you imagine evil against them, they will\\nknow of your ill thought before it is yet well born, and\\nwill fly, and be gone in the moment. But presently, if", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "TERRA SANTA\\n147\\nyou will only look virtuous enough to prevent alarm,\\nand vicious enough to avoid looking silly, the blithe\\nmaidens will draw nearer, and nearer to you, and soon\\nthere will be one, the bravest of the sisters, who will\\nventure right up to your side, and touch the hem of\\nyour coat, in playful defiance of the danger, and then\\nthe rest will follow the daring of their youthful leader,\\nand gather close round you, and hold a shrill con-\\ntroversy on the wondrous formation that you call a\\nhat, and the cunning of the hands that clothed you\\nwith cloth so fine and then growing more profound\\nin their researches, they will pass from the study of\\nyour mere dress, to a serious contemplation of your\\nstately height, and your nut-brown hair, and the ruddy\\nglow of your English cheeks. And if they catch a\\nglimpse of your ungloved fingers, then again will they\\nmake the air ring with their sweet screams of wonder,\\nand amazement, as they compare the fairness of your\\nhand with their warmer tints, and even with the hues\\nof your own sunburnt face instantly the ringleader of\\nthe gentle rioters imagines a new sin with tremulous\\nboldness she touches then grasps your hand, and\\nsmoothes it gently betwixt her own, and prys curiously\\ninto its make, and colour, as though it were silk of\\nDamascus, or shawl of Cashmere. And when they\\nsee you even then, still sage, and gentle, the joyous\\ngirls will suddenly, and screamingly, and all at once,\\nexplain to each other that you are surely quite harm-\\nless, and innocent a lion that makes no spring a\\nbear that never hugs, and upon this faith, one after the\\nother, they will take your passive hand, and strive to\\nexplain it, and make it a theme, and a controversy. But\\nthe one\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the fairest, and the sweetest of all, is yet the\\nmost timid she shrinks from the daring deeds of her\\nplaymates, and seeks shelter behind their sleeves, and\\nstrives to screen her glowing consciousness from the\\neyes that look upon her but her laughing sisters will\\nhave none of this cowardice they vow that the fair\\none shall be their complice shall share their dangers", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "148\\nEOTHEN\\nshall touch the hand of the stranger they seize her\\nsmall wrist, and drag her forward by force, and at last,\\nwhilst yet she strives to turn away, and to cover up her\\nwhole soul under the folds of downcast eyelids, they\\nvanquish her utmost strength they vanquish your\\nutmost modesty, and marry her hand to yours. The\\nquick pulse springs from her fingers, and throbs like a\\nwhisper upon your listening palm. For an instant her\\nlarge, timid eyes are upon you in an instant they are\\nshrouded again, and there comes a blush so burning,\\nthat the frightened girls stay their shrill laughter, as\\nthough they had played too perilously, and harmed\\ntheir gentle sister. A moment, and all with a sudden\\nintelligence turn away, and fly like deer, yet soon again\\nlike deer they wheel round, and return, and stand, and\\ngaze upon the danger, until they grow brave once\\nmore.\\nI regret to observe that the removal of the moral\\nrestraint imposed by the presence of the Mahometan\\ninhabitants, has led to a certain degree of boisterous,\\nthough innocent levity, in the bearing of the Christians,\\nand more especially in the demeanour of those who\\nbelong to the younger portion of the female population,\\nbut I feel assured that a more thorough knowledge of\\nthe principles of their own pure religion, will speedily\\nrestore these young people to habits of propriety, even\\nmore strict than those which were imposed upon them\\nby the authority of their Mahometan brethren. Bah\\nthus you might chaunt, if you chose but loving the\\ntruth, you will not so disown sweet Bethlehem you\\nwill not disown, nor dissemble the right good hearty\\ndelight, with which in the midst of the arid waste, you\\nfound this gushing spring of fresh, and joyous girlhood.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVII\\nTHE DESERT\\nGAZA is upon the edge of the Desert, to which it\\nstands in the same relation as a sea port to the\\nsea. It is there that you charter your camels, the\\nships of the Desert and lay in your stores for the\\nvoyage.\\nThese preparations kept me in the town for some\\ndays disliking restraint I declined making myself the\\nguest of the Governor (as it is usual and proper to do)\\nbut took up my quarters at the Caravanserai, or\\nKhan, as they call it in that part of Asia.\\nDthemetri had to make the arrangements for my\\njourney, and in order to arm himself with sufficient\\nauthority for doing all that was required, he found it\\nnecessary to put himself in communication with the\\nGovernor. The result of this diplomatic intercourse\\nwas that the Governor, with his train of attendants,\\ncame to me one day at my Caravanserai, and formally\\ncomplained that Dthemetri had grossly insulted him.\\nI was shocked at this, for the man was always atten-\\ntive, and civil to me, and I was disgusted at the idea\\nof his having been rewarded with insult. Dthemetri\\nwas present when the complaint was made, and I\\nangrily asked him whether it was true that he had\\nreally insulted the Governor, and what the deuce he\\nmeant by it. This I asked with the full certainty that\\nDthemetri, as a matter of course, would deny the charge\\nwould swear that a wrong construction had been\\nput upon his words, and that nothing was further from", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nhis thoughts, c. c, after the manner of the parlia-\\nmentary people, but to my surprise, he very plainly\\nanswered that he certainly had insulted the Governor,\\nand that rather grossly, but, he said, it was quite neces-\\nsary to do this, in order to strike terror, and inspire\\nrespect. Terror and respect What on earth do\\nyou mean by that nonsense Yes, but without\\nstriking terror, and inspiring respect, he, (Dthemetri)\\nwould never be able to force on the arrangements for\\nmy journey, and Vossignoria would be kept at Gaza\\nfor a month This would have been awkward, and\\ncertainly I could not deny that poor Dthemetri had\\nsucceeded in his odd plan of inspiring respect, for at\\nthe very time that this explanation was going on in\\nItalian, the Governor seemed more than ever, and\\nmore anxiously disposed to overwhelm me with assur-\\nances of good will, and proffers of his best services. All\\nthis kindness, or promise of kindness, I naturally re-\\nceived with courtesy a courtesy that greatly perturbed\\nDthemetri, for he evidently feared that my civility\\nwould undo all the good that his insults had achieved.\\nYou will find, I think, that one of the greatest draw-\\nbacks to the pleasure of travelling in Asia, is the being\\nobliged more, or less, to make your way by bullying.\\nIt is true that your own lips are not soiled by the\\nutterance of all the mean words that are spoken for\\nyou, and that you don t even know of the sham threats,\\nand the false promises, and the vain-glorious boasts,\\nput forth by your dragoman but now, and then there\\nhappens some incident of the sort which I have just\\nbeen mentioning, which forces you to believe, or\\nsuspect, that your dragoman is habitually fighting your\\nbattles for you in a way that you can hardly bear to\\nthink of.\\nA Caravanserai is not ill adapted to the purposes for\\nwhich it is meant it forms the four sides of a large\\nquadrangular court. The ground floor is used for ware-\\nhouses, the first floor for guests, and the open court for\\nthe temporary reception of the camels, as well as for", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\nthe loading, and unloading of their burthens, and the\\ntransaction of mercantile business generally. The\\napartments used for the guests are small cells opening\\ninto a corridor, which runs round the four sides of the\\ncourt.\\nWhilst I lay near the opening of my cell, looking\\ndown into the court below, there arrived from the\\nDesert a caravan that is, a large assemblage of\\ntravellers it consisted chiefly of Moldavian pilgrims,\\nwho, to make their good work even more than complete,\\nhad begun by visiting the shrine of the Virgin in Egypt,\\nand were now going on to Jerusalem. They had been\\novertaken in the Desert by a gale of wind, which so\\ndrove the sand, and raised up such mountains before\\nthem, that their journey had been terribly perplexed,\\nand obstructed, and their provisions (including water,\\nthe most precious of all) had been exhausted long be-\\nfore they reached the end of their toilsome march.\\nThey were sadly way-worn. The arrival of the caravan\\ndrew many and various groups into the court. There\\nwas the Moldavian pilgrim with his sable dress, and\\ncap of fur, and heavy masses of bushy hair the Turk\\nwith his various, and brilliant garments the Arab\\nsuperbly stalking under his striped blanket, that hung\\nlike royalty upon his stately form the jetty Ethiopian\\nin his slavish frock, the sleek, smooth-faced scribe\\nwith his comely pelisse, and his silver ink-box stuck in\\nlike a dagger at his girdle. And mingled with these\\nwere the camels some standing some kneeling and\\nbeing unladen some twisting round their long necks,\\nand gently stealing the straw from out of their own\\npack-saddles.\\nIn a couple of days I was ready to start. The way\\nof providing for the passage of the Desert is this there\\nis an agent in the town who keeps himself in com-\\nmunication with some of the desert Arabs that are\\nhovering within a day s journey of the place a party\\nof these upon being guaranteed against seizure, or\\nother ill-treatment at the hands of the Governor, come", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\ninto the town bringing with them the number of camels\\nwhich you require, and then they stipulate for a certain\\nsum to take you to the place of your destination in a\\ngiven time the agreement which they thus enter into,\\nincludes a safe-conduct, through their country, as well\\nas the hire of the camels. According to the contract\\nmade with me, I was to reach Cairo within ten days\\nfrom the commencement of the journey. I had four\\ncamels, one for my baggage, one for each of my\\nservants, and one for myself. Four Arabs, the owners\\nof the camels, came with me on foot. My stores were\\na small soldier s tent, two bags of dried bread brought\\nfrom the convent at Jerusalem, and a couple of bottles\\nof wine from the same source two goat-skins filled\\nwith water, tea, sugar, a cold tongue, and (of all things\\nin the world) a jar of Irish butter which Mysseri had\\npurchased from some merchant. There was also a\\nsmall sack of charcoal, for the greater part of the\\ndesert, through which we were to pass, is destitute of fuel.\\nThe camel kneels to receive her load, and for a while\\nshe will allow the packing to go on with silent resigna-\\ntion, but when she begins to suspect that her master is\\nputting more than a just burthen upon her poor hump,\\nshe turns round her supple neck, and looks sadly upon\\nthe increasing load, and then gently remonstrates\\nagainst the wrong with the sigh of a patient wife if\\nsighs will not move you, she can weep you soon learn\\nto pity, and soon to love her for the sake of her gentle,\\nand womanish ways.\\nYou cannot, of course, put an English or any other\\nriding saddle upon the back of the camel, but your\\nquilt, or carpet, or whatever you carry for the purpose\\nof lying on at night, is folded, and fastened on to the\\npack-saddle upon the top of the hump, and on this you\\nride, or rather sit. You sit as a man sits on a chair\\nwhen he sits astride, and faces the back of it. I made\\nan improvement on this plan I had my English\\nstirrups strapped on to the cross bars of the pack-\\nsaddle, and thus by gaining rest for my dangling legs,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT 153\\nand gaining, too, the power of varying my position\\nmore easily than I could otherwise have done, I added\\nvery much to my comfort. Don t forget to do as I did.\\nThe camel, like the elephant, is one of the old\\nfashioned sort of animals that still walk along upon the\\n(now nearly exploded) plan of the ancient beasts that\\nlived before the flood she moves forward both her\\nnear legs at the same time, and then awkwardly swings\\nround her off shoulder and haunch, so as to repeat the\\nmanoeuvre on that side her pace, therefore, is an odd,\\ndisjointed, and disjoining sort of movement that is\\nrather disagreeable at first, but you soon grow recon-\\nciled to it the height to which you are raised is of\\ngreat advantage to you in passing the burning sands\\nof the desert, for the air at such a distance from the\\nground is much cooler, and more lively than that\\nwhich circulates beneath.\\nFor several miles beyond Gaza, the land which had\\nbeen plentifully watered by the rains of the last week,\\nwas covered with rich verdure, and thickly jewelled\\nwith meadow flowers, so fresh and fragrant, that I\\nbegan to grow almost uneasy to fancy that the very-\\ndesert was receding before me, and that the long-\\ndesired adventure of passing its burning sands, was\\nto end in a mere ride across a field. But as I advanced,\\nthe true character of the country began to display itself,\\nwith sufficient clearness to dispel my apprehensions,\\nand before the close of my first day s journey, I had\\nthe gratification of finding that I was surrounded on\\nall sides by a tract of real sand, and had nothing at all to\\ncomplain of, except that there peeped forth at intervals\\na few isolated blades of grass, and many of those\\nstunted shrubs which are the accustomed food of the\\ncamel.\\nBefore sunset I came up with an encampment of\\nArabs, (the encampment from which my camels had\\nbeen brought) and my tent was pitched amongst theirs.\\nI was now amongst the true Bedouins almost every\\nman of this race closely resembles his brethren almost", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nevery man has large and finely formed features, but his\\nface is so thoroughly stripped of flesh, and the white\\nfolds from his head-gear fall down by his haggard\\ncheeks, so much in the burial fashion, that he looks\\nquite sad, and ghastly his large dark orbs, roll slowly\\nand solemnly over the white of his deep-set eyes his\\ncountenance shews painful thought and long suffering\\nthe suffering of one fallen from a high estate. His\\ngait is strangely majestic, and he marches along with\\nhis simple blanket, as though he were wearing the\\npurple. His common talk is a series of piercing\\nscreams, and cries, 1 more painful to the ear than the\\nmost excruciating fine music that I ever endured.\\nThe Bedouin women are not treasured up like the\\nwives and daughters of other Orientals, and indeed\\nthey seemed almost entirely free from the restraints\\nimposed by jealousy the feint which they made of\\nconceiling their faces from me was always slight they\\nnever I think, wore the yashmack properly fixed when\\nthey first saw me, they used to hold up a part of their\\ndrapery with one hand across their faces, but they\\nseldom persevered very steadily in subjecting me to\\nthis privation. Unhappy beings they were sadly\\nplain. The awful haggardness which gave some-\\nthing of character to the faces of the men, was sheer\\nugliness in the poor women. It is a great shame,\\nbut the truth is that except when we refer to the\\nbeautiful devotion of the mother to her child, all the\\nfine things we say, and think about woman, apply\\nonly to those who are tolerably good-looking, or grace-\\nful. These Arab women were so plain, and clumsy\\nthat they seemed to me to be fit for nothing but\\nanother, and a better world. They may have been\\ngood women enough, so far as relates to the exercise\\nof the minor virtues, but they had so grossly neglected\\nthe prime duty of looking pretty in this transitory life,\\n1 Milnes cleverly goes to the French for the exact word which\\nconveys the impression produced by the voice of the Arabs, and\\ncalls them un peuple criard.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\nthat I could not at all forgive them they seemed to\\nfeel the weight of their guilt and to be truly, and\\nhumbly penitent. I had the complete command of\\ntheir affections, for at any moment I could make\\ntheir young hearts bound, and their old hearts jump\\nby offering a handful of tobacco, and yet, believe me,\\nit was not in the first soiree, that my store of Latakasa\\nwas exhausted\\nThe Bedouin women have no religion this is partly\\nthe cause of their clumsiness perhaps, if from Chris-\\ntian girls they would learn how to pray, their souls\\nmight become more gentle, and their limbs be clothed\\nwith grace.\\nYou who are going into their country, have a direct\\npersonal interest in knowing something about Arab\\nhospitality but the deuce of it is, that the poor\\nfellows with whom I have happened to pitch my tent\\nwere scarcely ever in a condition to exercise that\\nmagnanimous virtue with much eclat indeed Mysseri s\\ncanteen generally enabled me to outdo my hosts in the\\nmatter of entertainment. They were always courteous,\\nhowever, and were never backward in offering me the\\nyouart, or curds and whey, which is the principal\\ndelicacy to be found amongst the wandering tribes.\\nPractically, I think, Childe Harold would have found\\nit a dreadful bore to make the desert his dwelling-\\nplace, for at all events if he adopted the life of the\\nArabs, he would have tasted no solitude. The tents\\nare partitioned, not so as to divide the Childe, and the\\nfair spirit, who is his minister, from the rest of the\\nworld, but so as to separate the twenty or thirty brown\\nmen that sit screaming in the one compartment, from\\nthe fifty or sixty brown women, and children that\\nscream and squeak in the other. If you adopt the\\nArab life for the sake of seclusion, you will be horridly\\ndisappointed, for you will find yourself in perpetual\\ncontact with a mass of hot fellow creatures. It is true\\nthat all who are inmates of the same tent are related\\nto each other, but I am not quite sure that that circum-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "156\\nEOTHEN\\nstance adds much to the charm of such a life. At all\\nevents before you finally determine to become an\\nArab, try a gentle experiment take one of those\\nsmall, shabby houses in May Fair, and shut yourself\\nup in it with forty or fifty shrill cousins for a couple of\\nweeks in July.\\nIn passing the Desert you will find your Arabs\\nwanting to start, and to rest at all sorts of odd times\\nthey like, for instance, to be off at one in the morning,\\nand to rest during the whole of the afternoon you\\nmust not give way to their wishes in this respect I\\ntried their plan once, and found it very harassing, and\\nunwholesome. An ordinary tent can give you very\\nlittle protection against heat, for the fire strikes fiercely\\nthrough single canvas, and you soon find that whilst\\nyou lie crouching, and striving to hide yourself from\\nthe blazing face of the sun, his power is harder to bear\\nthan it is where you boldly defy him from the airy\\nheights of your camel.\\nIt had been arranged with my Arabs, that they were\\nto bring with them all the food which they would want\\nfor themselves during the passage of the Desert, but\\nas we rested at the end of the first day s journey, by\\nthe side of an Arab encampment, my camel-men found\\nall that they required for that night in the tents of their\\nown brethren. On the evening of the second day,\\nhowever, just before we encamped for the night, my\\nfour Arabs came to Dthemetri, and formally announced\\nthat they had not brought with them one atom of food,\\nand that they looked entirely to my supplies for their\\ndaily bread. This was awkward intelligence we were\\nnow just two days deep in the Desert, and I had brought\\nwith me no more bread than might be reasonably\\nrequired for myself, and my European attendants I\\nbelieved at the moment (for it seemed likely enough)\\nthat the men had really mistaken the terms of the\\narrangement, and feeling that the bore of being put\\nupon half rations would be a less evil (and even to\\nmyself a less inconvenience) than the starvation of my", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n157\\nArabs, I at once told Dthemetri to assure them that\\nmy bread should be equally shared with all. Dthemetri,\\nhowever, did not approve of this concession he assured\\nme quite positively that the Arabs thoroughly under-\\nstood the agreement, and that if they were now with-\\nout food, they had wilfully brought themselves into\\nthis strait, for the wretched purpose of bettering their\\nbargain, by the value of a few paras worth of bread.\\nThis suggestion made me look at the affair in a new\\nlight I should have been glad enough to put up with\\nthe slight privation to which my concession would\\nsubject me, and could have borne to witness the semi-\\nstarvation of poor Dthemetri with a fine, philosophical\\ncalm, but it seemed to me that the scheme, if scheme\\nit were, had something of audacity in it, and was well\\nenough calculated to try the extent of my softness I\\nwell knew the danger of allowing such a trial to result\\nin a conclusion that I was one who might be easily\\nmanaged and therefore, after thoroughly satisfying\\nmyself from Dthemetri s clear, and repeated assertions,\\nthat the Arabs had really understood the arrangement,\\nI determined that they should not now violate it by\\ntaking advantage of my position in the midst of their\\nbig desert, so I desired Dthemetri to tell them that\\nthey should touch no bread of mine. We stopped,\\nand the tent was pitched the Arabs came to me, and\\nprayed loudly for bread I refused them.\\nThen we die\\nGod s will be done.\\nI gave the Arabs to understand, that I regretted\\ntheir perishing by hunger, but that I should bear this\\ncalmly, like any other misfortune not my own that in\\nshort I was happily resigned to their fate. The men\\nwould have talked a great deal, but they were under\\nthe disadvantage of addressing me through a hostile\\ninterpreter they looked hard upon my face, but they\\nfound no hope there, so at last they retired, as they\\npretended, to lay them down, and die.\\nIn about ten minutes from this time, I found that", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "i 5 8\\nEOTHEN\\nthe Arabs were busily cooking their bread Their\\npretence of having brought no food was false, and was\\nonly invented for the purpose of saving it. They had\\na good bag of meal which they had contrived to stow\\naway under the baggage, upon one of the camels, in\\nsuch a way as to escape notice. In Europe the de-\\ntection of a scheme like this would have occasioned\\na disagreeable feeling between the master, and the\\ndelinquent, but you would no more recoil from an\\nOriental, on account of a matter of this sort, than in\\nEngland you would reject a horse that had tried, and\\nfailed to throw you. Indeed I felt quite good-humouredly\\ntowards my Arabs, because they had so woefully failed\\nin their wretched attempt, and because, as it turned\\nout, I had done what was right they too, poor fellows,\\nevidently began to like me immensely, on account of\\nthe hard-heartedness which had enabled me to baffle\\ntheir scheme.\\nThe Arabs adhere to those ancestral principles of\\nbread -baking which have been sanctioned by the\\nexperience of ages. The very first baker of bread that\\never lived, must have done his work exactly as the\\nArab does at this day. He takes some meal, and\\nholds it out in the hollow of his hands, whilst his\\ncomrade pours over it a few drops of water he then\\nmashes up the moistened flour into, a paste,* which he\\npulls into small pieces, and thrusts into the embers\\nhis way of baking exactly resembles the craft or mystery\\nof roasting chestnuts, as practised by children there\\nis the same prudence and circumspection in choosing\\na good berth for the morsel the same enterprise, and\\nself-sacrificing valour, in pulling it out with the fingers.\\nThe manner of my daily march was this. At about\\nan hour before dawn, I rose, and made the most of\\nabout a pint of water which I allowed myself for wash-\\ning. Then I breakfasted upon tea, and bread. As\\nsoon as the beasts were loaded, I mounted my camel,\\nand pressed forward my poor Arabs being on foot\\nwould sometimes moan with fatigue, and pray for rest,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n159\\nbut I was anxious to enable them to perform their\\ncontract for bringing me to Cairo within the stipulated\\ntime, and I did not therefore allow a halt until the\\nevening came. About mid-day, or soon after, Mysseri\\nused to bring up his camel alongside of mine, and\\nsupply me with a piece of bread softened in water, (for\\nfor it was dried hard like board), and also (as long as\\nit lasted) with a piece of the tongue after this there\\ncame into my hand (how well I remember it the little\\ntin cup half filled with wine and water.\\nAs long as you are journeying in the interior of the\\nDesert you have no particular point to make for as\\nyour resting place. The endless sands, yield nothing\\nbut small stunted shrubs even these fail after the first\\ntwo or three days, and from that time you pass over\\nbroad plains you pass over newly reared hills you\\npass through valleys that the storm of the last week\\nhas dug, and the hills, and the valleys are sand, sand,\\nsand, still sand, and only sand, and sand, and sand\\nagain. The earth is so samely, that your eyes turn\\ntowards heaven towards heaven, I mean, in the sense\\nof sky. You look to the Sun, for he is your task-master,\\nand by him you know the measure of the work that\\nyou have done, and the measure of the work that\\nremains for you to do He comes when you strike\\nyour tent in the early morning, and then, for the first\\nhour of the day, as you move forward on your camel,\\nhe stands at your near side, and makes you know that\\nthe whole day s toil is before you then for a while,\\nand a long while you see him no more, for you are\\nveiled, and shrouded, and dare not look upon the\\ngreatness of his glory, but you know where he strides\\nover head, by the touch of his flaming sword. No\\nwords are spoken, but your Arabs moan, your camels\\nsigh, your skin glows, your shoulders ache, and for\\nsights you see the pattern, and the web of the silk that\\nveils your eyes, and the glare of the outer light. Time\\nlabours on your skin glows, and your shoulders ache,\\nyour Arabs moan, your camels sigh, and you see the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "i6o\\nEOTHEN\\nsame pattern in the silk, and the same glare of light\\nbeyond, but conquering Time marches on, and by and\\nby the descending Sun has compassed the Heaven,\\nand now softly touches your right arm, and throws\\nyour lank shadow over the sand, right along on the\\nway for Persia then again you look upon his face, for\\nhis power is all veiled in his beauty, and the redness of\\nflames has become the redness of roses the fair, wavy\\ncloud that fled in the morning now comes to his sight\\nonce more comes blushing, yet still comes on comes\\nburning with blushes, yet hastens, and clings to his\\nside.\\nThen arrives your time for resting. The world about\\nyou is all your own, and there, where you will, you\\npitch your solitary tent there is no living thing to\\ndispute your choice. When at last the spot had been\\nfixed upon, and we came to a halt, one of the Arabs\\nwould touch the chest of my camel, and utter at the\\nsame time a peculiar gurgling sound the beast in-\\nstantly understood, and obeyed the sign, and slowly\\nsunk under me till she brought her body to a level with\\nthe ground then gladly enough I alighted the rest\\nof the camels were unloaded, and turned loose to browse\\nupon the shrubs of the Desert, where shrubs there\\nwere, or where these failed, to wait for the small\\nquantity of food which was allowed them out of our\\nstores.\\nMy servants, helped by the Arabs, busied them-\\nselves in pitching the tent, and kindling the fire.\\nWhilst this was doing I used to walk away towards\\nthe East, confiding in the print of my foot as a guide\\nfor my return. Apart from the cheering voices of my\\nattendants I could better know and feel the loneliness\\nof the Desert. The influence of such scenes, however,\\nwas not of a softening kind, but filled me rather with\\na sort of childish exultation in the self-sufficiency which\\nenabled me to stand thus alone in the wideness of\\nAsia a short-lived pride, for wherever man wanders,\\nhe still remains tethered by the chain that links him to", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n161\\nhis kind; and so when the night closed round me,\\nI began to return to return as it were to my own\\ngate. Reaching at last some high ground, I could see,\\nand see with delight, the fire of our small encampment,\\nand when, at last, I regained the spot, it seemed to me\\na very home that had sprung up for me in the midst of\\nthese solitudes. My Arabs were busy with their bread,\\nMysseri rattling tea-cups, the little kettle with her\\nodd, oldmaidish looks sat humming away old songs\\nabout England, and two or three yards from the fire\\nmy tent stood prim, and tight with open portal, and\\nwith welcoming look, like the own arm chair, of our\\nLyrist s sweet Lady Anne.\\nAt the beginning of my journey, the night breeze\\nblew coldly; when that happened, the dry sand was\\nheaped up outside round the skirts of the tent, and so\\nthe Wind that every where else could sweep as he\\nlisted along those dreary plains was forced to turn aside\\nin his course, and make way, as he ought, for the\\nEnglishman. Then within my tent, there were heaps\\nof luxuries, dining rooms, dressing rooms, libraries,\\nbed rooms, drawing rooms, oratories, all crowded into\\nthe space of a hearth rug. The first night, I remember,\\nwith my books, and maps about me, I wanted light,\\nthey brought me a taper, and immediately from out of\\nthe silent Desert there rushed in a flood of life, unseen\\nbefore. Monsters of moths of all shapes, and hues,\\nthat never before perhaps had looked upon the shining\\nof a flame, now madly thronged into my tent, and\\ndashed through the fire of the candle till they fairly\\nextinguished it with their burning limbs. Those who\\nhad failed in attaining this martyrdom, suddenly\\nbecame serious, and clung despondingly to the\\ncanvass.\\nBy and by there was brought to me the fragrant tea,\\nand big masses of scorched and scorching toast, that\\nminded me of old Eton days, and the butter that had\\ncome all the way to me in this Desert of Asia, from\\nout of that poor, dear, starving Ireland. I feasted like\\nM", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\na King, like four Kings, like a boy in the fourth\\nform.\\nWhen the cold, sullen morning dawned, and my\\npeople began to load the camels, I always felt loath to\\ngive back to the waste this little spot of ground that\\nhad glowed for a while with the cheerfulness of a\\nhuman dwelling. One by one the cloaks, the saddles,\\nthe baggage, the hundred things that strewed the\\nground, and made it look so familiar all these were\\ntaken away, and laid upon the camels. A speck in\\nthe broad tracts of Asia remained still impressed with\\nthe mark of patent portmanteaus, and the heels of\\nLondon boots the embers of the fire lay black, and\\ncold upon the sand, and these were the signs we left.\\nMy tent was spared to the last, but when all else was\\nready for the start, then came its fall the pegs were\\ndrawn, the canvass shivered, and in less than a minute\\nthere was nothing that remained of my genial home\\nbut only a pole, and a bundle. The encroaching Eng-\\nlishman was off, and instant upon the fall of the can-\\nvass, like an owner, who had waited, and watched, the\\nGenius of the Desert stalked in.\\nTo servants, as I suppose to any other Europeans\\nnot much accustomed to amuse themselves by fancy,\\nor memory, it often happens that after a few days\\njourneying, the loneliness of the desert will become\\nfrightfully oppressive. Upon my poor fellows the\\naccess of melancholy came heavy, and all at once, as\\na blow from above they bent their necks, and bore it\\nas best they could, but their joy was great on the fifth\\nday, when we came to an Oasis called Gatieh, for here\\nwe found encamped a caravan, (that is an assemblage\\nof travellers) from Cairo. The Orientals living in\\ncities, never pass the Desert, except in this way many\\nwill wait for weeks, and even for months, until a suf-\\nficient number of persons can be found ready to under-\\ntake the journey at the same time until the flock of\\nsheep is big enough to fancy itself a match for wolves.\\nThey could not, I think, really secure themselves", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT 163\\nagainst any serious danger by this contrivance, for\\nthough they have arms, they are so little accustomed\\nto use them, and so utterly unorganized, that they\\nnever could make good their resistance to robbers of\\nthe slightest respectability. It is not of the Bedouins\\nthat such travellers are afraid, for the safe-conduct\\ngranted by the Chief of the ruling tribe is never, I be-\\nlieve, violated, but it is said that there are deserters and\\nscamps of various sorts who hover about the skirts of\\nthe Desert, particularly on the Cairo side, and are\\nanxious to succeed to the property of any poor devils\\nwhom they may find more weak, and defenceless than\\nthemselves.\\nThese people from Cairo professed to be amazed at\\nthe ludicrous disproportion between their numerical\\nforces and mine. They could not understand, and they\\nwanted to know by what strange privilege it is that an\\nEnglishman with a brace of pistols, and a couple of\\nservants rides safely across the Desert, whilst they, the\\nnatives of the neighbouring cities are forced to travel\\nin troops, or rather in herds. One of them got a few\\nminutes of private conversation with Dthemetri, and\\nventured to ask him anxiously, whether the English\\ndid not travel under the protection of Evil Demons. I\\nhad previously known, (from Methley, I think, who had\\ntravelled in Persia,) that this notion, so conducive to\\nthe safety of our countrymen, is generally prevalent\\namongst Orientals it owes its origin partly to the\\nstrong wilfulness of the English gentleman, (which\\nnot being backed by any visible authority either civil,\\nor military, seems perfectly superhuman to the soft\\nAsiatic,) but partly too to the magic of the Banking\\nsystem, by force of which the wealthy traveller will\\nmake all his journeys, without carrying a handful of\\ncoin, and yet when he arrives at a city, will rain down\\nshowers of gold. The theory is that the English\\ntraveller has committed some sin against God, and his\\nconscience, and that for this, the Evil Spirit has hold\\nof him, and drives him from his home, like a victim of", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "164\\nEOTHEN\\nthe old Grecian Furies, and forces him to travel over\\ncountries far, and strange, and most chiefly over\\nDeserts, and desolate places, and to stand upon the\\nsites of cities that once were, and are now no more,\\nand to grope among the tombs of dead men. Often\\nenough there is something of truth in this notion\\noften enough the wandering Englishman is guilty, (if\\nguilt it be,) of some pride, or ambition, big, or small,\\nimperial, or parochial, which being offended has made\\nthe lone places more tolerable than ball rooms, to\\nhim, a sinner.\\nI can understand the sort of amazement of the\\nOrientals at the scantiness of the retinue with which\\nan Englishman passes the Desert, for I was somewhat\\nstruck myself when I saw one- of my countrymen\\nmaking his way across the wilderness in this simple\\nstyle. At first there was a mere moving speck in the\\nhorizon my party, of course, became all alive with\\nexcitement, and there were many surmises soon it\\nappeared that three laden camels were approaching,\\nand that two of them carried riders in a little while\\nwe saw that one of the riders wore the European\\ndress, and at last the travellers were pronounced to be\\nan English gentleman, and his servant by their side\\nthere were a couple, I think, of Arabs on foot, and this\\nwas the whole party.\\nYou, you love sailing, in returning from a cruise\\nto the English coast, you see often enough a fisher-\\nman s humble boat far away from all shores, with an\\nugly, black sky above, and an angry sea beneath, you\\nwatch the grisly old man at the helm, carrying his\\ncraft with strange skill through the turmoil of waters,\\nand the boy, supple-limbed, yet weather-worn already,\\nand with steady eyes that look through the blast, you\\nsee him understanding commandments from the jerk\\nof his father s white eye-brow, now belaying, and\\nnow letting go, now scrunching himself down into\\nmere ballast, or baling out Death with a pipkin. Stale\\nenough is the sight, and yet when I see it, I always", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n165\\nstare anew, and with a kind of Titanic exultation,\\nbecause that a poor boat with the brain of a man, and\\nthe hands of a boy on board can match herself so\\nbravely against black Heaven, and Ocean well, so\\nwhen you have travelled for days, and days, over an\\nEastern Desert, without meeting the likeness of a\\nhuman being, and then at last see an English shoot-\\ning-jacket, and his servant come listlessly slouching\\nalong from out the forward horizon, you stare at the\\nwide unproportion between this slender company, and\\nthe boundless plains of sand through which they are\\nkeeping their way.\\nThis Englishman, as I afterwards found, was a\\nmilitary man returning to his country from India, and\\ncrossing the Desert at this part in order to go through\\nPalestine. As for me, I had come pretty straight from\\nEngland, and so here we met in the wilderness at about\\nhalf way from our respective starting points. As we\\napproached each other, it became with me a question\\nwhether we should speak I thought it likely that the\\nstranger would accost me, and in the event of his doing\\nso, I was quite ready to be as sociable, and chatty as I\\ncould be, according to my nature, but still I could not\\nthink of any thing particular that I had to say to him\\nof course among civilised people, the not having any-\\nthing to say is no excuse at all for not speaking, but I\\nwas shy, and indolent, and I felt no great wish to stop,\\nand talk like a morning visitor, in the midst of those\\nbroad solitudes. The traveller, perhaps, felt as I did,\\nfor except that we lifted our hands to our caps, and\\nwaved our arms in courtesy, we passed each other, as\\nif we had passed in Bond Street. Our attendants,\\nhowever, were not to be cheated of the delight that\\nthey felt in speaking to new listeners, and hearing\\nfresh voices once more. The masters, therefore, had\\nno sooner passed each other than their respective\\nservants quietly stopped, and entered into conversation.\\nAs soon as my camel found that her c ompanions were\\nnot following her, she caught the social feeling and", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nrefused to go on. I felt the absurdity of the situation,\\nand determined to accost the stranger, if only to avoid\\nthe awkwardness of remaining stuck fast in the Desert,\\nwhilst our servants were amusing themselves. When\\nwith this intent I turned round my camel, I found that\\nthe gallant officer, who had passed me by about thirty\\nor forty yards, was exactly in the same predicament as\\nmyself. I put my now willing camel in motion, and\\nrode up towards the stranger, who, seeing this, followed\\nmy example, and came forward to meet me. He was\\nthe first to speak he was much too courteous to\\naddress me as if he admitted the possibility of my wish-\\ning to accost him from any feeling of mere sociability,\\nor civilian-like love of vain talk on the contrary, he\\nat once attributed my advances to a laudable wish of\\nacquiring statistical information, and, accordingly,\\nwhen we got within speaking distance, he said, I\\ndare say, you wish to know how the Plague is going\\non at Cairo and then he went on to say, he regretted\\nthat his information did not enable him to give me in\\nnumbers a perfectly accurate statement of the daily\\ndeaths he afterwards talked pleasantly enough upon\\nother, and less ghastly subjects. I thought him manly,\\nand intelligent a worthy one of the few thousand\\nstrong Englishmen, to whom the Empire of India is\\ncommitted.\\nThe night after the meeting with the people of the\\ncaravan, Dthemetri, alarmed by their warnings, took\\nupon himself to keep watch all night in the tent no\\nrobbers came, except a jackal that poked his nose into\\nmy tent from some motive of rational curiosity\\nDthemetri did not shoot him for fear of waking me.\\nThese brutes swarm in every part of Syria and there\\nwere many of them even in the midst of the void\\nsands, that would seem to give such poor promise of\\nfood I can hardly tell what prey they could be hoping\\nfor, unless it were that they might find, now and then,\\nthe carcase of some camel that had died on the journey.\\nThey do not marshal themselves into great packs like", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n167\\nthe wild dogs of Eastern cities, but follow their prey in\\nfamilies, like the place-hunters of Europe their voices\\nare frightfully like to the shouts, and cries of human\\nbeings if you lie awake in your tent at night, you are\\nalmost continually hearing some hungry family as it\\nsweeps along in full cry you hear the exulting scream\\nwith which the sagacious dam first winds the carrion,\\nand the shrill response of the unanimous cubs as they\\nsnuff the tainted air Wha wha wha wha wha\\nwha Whose gift is it in, mamma\\nOnce, during this passage, my Arabs lost their way\\namong the hills of loose sand that surrounded us, but\\nafter a while we were lucky enough to recover our\\nright line of march. The same day we fell in with a\\nSheik, the head of a family, that actually dwells at no\\ngreat distance from this part of the desert, during nine\\nmonths of the year. The man carried a match-lock,\\nof which he was very proud we stopped, and sat\\ndown, and rested awhile, for the sake of a little talk\\nthere was much that I should have liked to ask this\\nman, but he could not understand Dthemetri s language,\\nand the process of getting at his knowledge by double\\ninterpretation through my Arabs was unsatisfactory.\\nI discovered, however, (and my Arabs knew of that\\nfact) that this man and his family lived habitually for\\nnine months of the year, without touching, or seeing\\neither bread, or water. The stunted shrub growing at\\nintervals through the sand in this part of the desert, is\\nfed by the dews which fall at night, and enables the\\ncamel mares to yield a little milk, which furnishes the\\nsole food and drink of their owner and his people.\\nDuring the other three months, (the hottest of the\\nmonths, I suppose) even this resource fails, and then\\nthe Sheik and his people are forced to pass into\\nanother district. You would ask me why the man\\nshould not remain always in that district which supplies\\nhim with water during three months of the year, but I\\ndon t know enough of Arab politics to answer the\\nquestion. The Sheik was not a good specimen of the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\neffect produced by the diet to which he is subjected\\nhe was very small, very spare, and sadly shrivelled a\\npoor over-roasted snipe, a mere cinder of a man I\\nmade him sit down by my side, and gave him a piece\\nof bread, and a cup of water, from out of my goat-\\nskins. This was not very tempting drink to look at,\\nfor it had become turbid, and was deeply reddened by\\nsome colouring matter contained in the skins, but it\\nkept its sweetness, and tasted like a strong decoction\\nof Russia leather. The Sheik sipped this, drop by\\ndrop, with ineffable relish, and rolled his eyes solemnly\\nround between every draught, as though the drink\\nwere the drink of the Prophet, and had come from the\\nseventh heaven.\\nAn inquiry about distances, led to the discovery\\nthat this Sheik had never heard of the division of time\\ninto hours my Arabs themselves, I think, were rather\\nsurprised at this.\\nAbout this part of my journey, I saw the likeness of\\na freshwater lake I saw, as it seemed, a broad sheet\\nof calm water, that stretched far, and fair towards\\nthe south stretching deep into winding creeks, and\\nhemmed in by jutting promontories, and shelving\\nsmooth off towards the shallow side on its bosom the\\nreflected fire of the sun lay playing, and seeming to\\nfloat upon waters deep, and still.\\nThough I knew of the cheat, it was not till the\\nspongy foot of my camel had almost trodden in the\\nseeming waters, that I could undeceive my eyes, for\\nthe shore line was quite true, and natural. I soon saw\\nthe cause of the phantasm. A sheet of water, heavily\\nimpregnated with salts, had filled this great hollow\\nand when dried up by evaporation had left a white\\nsaline deposit, that exactly marked the space which\\nthe waters had covered, and thus sketched a true shore-\\nline. The minute crystals of the salt sparkled in the\\nsun, and so looked like the face of a lake that is calm,\\nand smooth.\\nThe pace of the camel is irksome, and makes your", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\nshoulders, and loins ache from the peculiar way in\\nwhich you are obliged to suit yourself to the move-\\nments of the beast, but you soon of course become\\ninured to this, and after the first two days, this way of\\ntravelling became so familiar to me, that (poor sleeper\\nas I am) I now and then slumbered for some moments\\ntogether, on the back of my camel. On the fifth day\\nof my journey, the air above lay dead, and all the whole\\nearth that I could reach with my utmost sight, and\\nkeenest listening was still, and lifeless, as some dis-\\npeopled, and forgotten world, that rolls round and\\nround in the heavens, through wasted floods of light.\\nThe sun, growing fiercer, and fiercer, shone down\\nmore mightily now than ever on me he shone before,\\nand as I dropped my head under his fire, and closed\\nmy eyes against the glare that surrounded me, I slowly\\nfell asleep, for how many minutes, or moments, I can-\\nnot tell, but after a while I was gently awakened by a\\npeal of church bells\u00e2\u0080\u0094 my native bells the innocent\\nbells of Marlen, that never before sent forth their\\nmusic beyond the Blaygon hills My first idea\\nnaturally was, that I still remained fast under the\\npower of a dream. I roused myself, and drew aside\\nthe silk that covered my eyes, and plunged my bare\\nface into the light. Then at least I was well enough\\nawakened, but still those old Marlen bells rung on, not\\nringing for joy, but properly, prosily, steadily, merrily\\nringing for church. After a while the sound died\\naway slowly it happened that neither I, nor any of my\\nparty had a watch by which to measure the exact time\\nof its lasting, but it seemed to me that about ten\\nminutes had passed before the bells ceased. I attri-\\nbuted the effect to the great heat of the sun, the perfect\\ndryness of the clear air through which I moved, and\\nthe deep stillness of all around me it seemed to me\\nthat these causes by occasioning a great tension, and\\nconsequent susceptibility of the hearing organs had\\nrendered them liable to tingle under the passing touch\\nof some mere memory, that must have swept across", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "I JO\\nEOTHEN\\nmy brain in a moment of sleep. Since my return to\\nEngland it has been told me that like sounds have\\nbeen heard at sea, and that the sailor becalmed under\\na vertical sun in the midst of the wide ocean, has\\nlistened in trembling wonder to the chime of his own\\nvillage bells.\\nAt this time I kept a poor, shabby pretence of a\\njournal, which just enabled me to know the day of the\\nmonth, and the week, according to the European\\ncalendar, and when in my tent at night I got out my\\npocket book, I found that the day was Sunday, and\\nroughly allowing for the difference of time in this\\nlongitude, I concluded that at the moment of my hear-\\ning that strange peal, the church-going bells of Marlen\\nmust have been actually calling the prim congregation\\nof the parish to morning prayer. The coincidence\\namused me faintly, but I could not pluck up the least\\nhope that the effect which I had experienced was any-\\nthing other than an illusion an illusion liable to be\\nexplained (as every illusion is in these days) by some\\nof the philosophers who guess at nature s riddles. It\\nwould have been sweeter to believe that my kneeling\\nmother by some pious enchantment, had asked, and\\nfound this spell to rouse me from my scandalous for-\\ngetfulness of God s holy day, but my fancy was too\\nweak to carry a faith like that. Indeed, the vale through\\nwhich the bells of Marlen sent their song is a highly\\nrespectable vale, and its people (save one, two, or\\nthree,) are wholly unaddicted to the practice of magical\\narts.\\nAfter the fifth day of my journey, I no longer tra-\\nvelled over shifting hills, but came upon a dead level\\na dead level bed of sand, quite hard, and studded-\\nwith small shining pebbles.\\nThe heat grew fierce there was no valley, nor\\nhollow, no hill, no mound, no shadow of hill, nor of\\nmound, by which I could mark the way I was making.\\nHour by hour I advanced, and saw no change I was\\nstill the very centre of a round horizon hour by hour", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "THE DESERT\\n171\\nI advanced, and still there was the same, and the\\nsame, and the same the same circle of flaming sky\\nthe same circle of sand still glaring with light, and\\nfire. Over all the heaven above over all the earth\\nbeneath, there was no visible power that could balk\\nthe fierce will of the Sun he rejoiced as a strong\\nman to run a race his going forth was from the end\\nof the heaven, and his circuit unto the ends of it and\\nthere was nothing hid from the heat thereof. From\\npole to pole, and from the East to the West, he brand-\\nished his fiery sceptre as though he had usurped all\\nHeaven, and Earth. As he bid the soft Persian in\\nancient times, so now, and fiercely too, he bid me bow\\ndown, and worship him so now in his pride he seemed\\nto command me, and say Thou shalt have none other\\ngods but me. I was all alone before him. There\\nwere these two pitted together, and face to face the\\nmighty Sun for one, and for the other this poor,\\npale, solitary Self of mine, that I always carry about\\nwith me.\\nBut on the eighth day, and before I had yet turned\\naway from Jehovah, for the glittering god of the Per-\\nsians, there appeared a dark line upon the edge of the\\nforward horizon, and soon the line deepened into a\\ndelicate fringe, that sparkled here and there as though\\nit were sewn with diamonds. There, then, before me\\nwere the gardens, and the minarets of Egypt, and the\\nmighty works of the Nile, and I (the eternal Ego that\\nI am I) I had lived to see, and I saw them.\\nWhen evening came, I was still within the confines\\nof the Desert, and my tent was pitched as usual, but\\none of my Arabs stalked away rapidly towards the\\nWest, without telling me of the errand on which\\nhe was bent. After a while he returned he had\\ntoiled on a graceful service he had travelled all\\nthe way on to the border of the living world, and\\nbrought me back for token an ear of rice, full, fresh,\\nand green.\\nThe next day I entered upon Egypt, and floated along", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "172\\nEOTHEN\\n(for the delight was as the delight of bathing) through\\ngreen, wavy fields of rice, and pastures fresh, and\\nplentiful, and dived into the cold verdure of groves,\\nand gardens, and quenched my hot eyes in shade, as\\nthough in deep, rushing waters.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVIII\\nCAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 1\\nCAIRO, and Plague During the whole time of\\nmy stay, the Plague was so master of the city, and\\nshewed himself so staringly in every street, and every\\nalley, that I can t now affect to dissociate the two\\nideas.\\nWhen, coming from the Desert, I rode through a\\nvillage which lies near to the city on the eastern side,\\nthere approached me with busy face, and earnest\\ngestures, a personage in the Turkish dress his long\\nflowing beard gave him rather a majestic look, but\\n1 There is some semblance of bravado in my manner of talk-\\ning about the Plague. I have been more careful to describe the\\nterrors of other people than my own. The truth is, that during\\nthe whole period of my stay at Cairo, I remained thoroughly im-\\npressed with a sense of my danger. I may almost say that I\\nlived in perpetual apprehension, for even in sleep, as I fancy,\\nthere remained with me some faint notion of the peril with which\\nI was encompassed. But Fear does not necessarily damp the\\nspirits on the contrary, it will often operate as an excitement,\\ngiving rise to unusual animation, and thus it affected me. If I\\nhad not been surrounded at this time by new faces, new scenes,\\nand new sounds, the effect produced upon my mind by one un-\\nceasing cause of alarm, may have been very different. As it was,\\nthe eagerness with which I pursued my rambles among the\\nwonders of Egypt was sharpened, and increased by the sting of\\nthe fear of Death. Thus my account of the matter plainly con-\\nveys an impression that I remained at Cairo without losing my\\ncheerfulness, and buoyancy of spirits. And this is the truth, but\\nit is also true, as I have freely confessed, that my sense of danger\\nduring the whole period was lively, and continuous.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "174\\nEOTHEN\\nhis briskness of manner, and his visible anxiety to\\naccost me seemed strange in an Oriental. The man\\nin fact was French, or of French origin, and his object\\nwas to warn me of the Plague, and prevent me from\\nentering the city.\\nArretez-vous, Monsieur, je vous en prie arretez-\\nvous il ne faut pas entrer dans la ville la Peste y\\nregne partout.\\nOui, je sais, 1 mais\\nMais Monsieur, je dis la Peste la Peste c est de\\nLa Peste qu il est question.\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nMais Monsieur, je dis encore la Peste la Peste.\\nJe vous conjure de ne pas entrer dans la ville vous\\nseriez dans une ville empestee.\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nMais Monsieur, je dois done vous avertir tout bonne-\\nment que si vous entrez dans la ville, vous serez enfin\\nvous serez Compromis 2\\nOui, je sais, mais\\nThe Frenchman was at last convinced that it was\\nvain to reason with a mere Englishman, who could\\nnot understand what it was to be compromised. I\\nthanked him most sincerely for his kindly meant warn-\\ning in hot countries it is very unusual indeed for a\\nman to go out in the glare of the sun, and give free\\nadvice to a stranger.\\nWhen I arrived at Cairo, I summoned Osman\\nEfTendi, who was, as I knew, the owner of several\\n1 Anglice for je le sais. These answers of mine as given\\nabove, are not meant for specimens of mere French, but of that\\nfine, terse, nervous Continental English, with which I, and my\\ncompatriots make our way through Europe. This language, by\\nthe bye, is one possessing great force, and energy, and is not\\nwithout its literature a literature of the very highest order.\\nWhere will you find more sturdy specimens of downright, honest,\\nand noble English than in the Duke of Wellington s M French\\ndespatches\\n2 The import of the word compromised, when used in re-\\nference to contagion is explained in page 2.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 175\\nhouses, and would be able to provide me with apart-\\nments he had no difficulty in doing this, for there was\\nnot one European traveller in Cairo besides myself.\\nPoor Osman he met me with a sorrowful countenance,\\nfor the fear of the Plague sat heavily on his soul he\\nseemed as if he felt that he was doing wrong in lend-\\ning me a resting-place, and he betrayed such a listless-\\nness about temporal matters, as one might look for in\\na man who believed that his days were numbered.\\nHe caught me too, soon after my arrival, coming\\nout from the public baths, 1 and from that time\\nforward he was sadly afraid of me, for he shared the\\nopinions of Europeans, ,with respect to the effect of\\ncontagion.\\nOsman s history is a curious one. He was a Scotch-\\nman born, and when very young, being then a drummer-\\nboy, he landed in Egypt, with Mackensie Eraser s\\nforce. He was taken prisoner, and according to\\nMahometan custom, the alternative of Death, or the\\nKoran, was offered to him he did not choose Death,\\nand therefore went through the ceremonies which were\\nnecessary for turning him into a good Mahometan.\\nBut what amused me most in his history, was this\\nthat very soon after having embraced Islam, he was\\nobliged in practice to become curious, and discriminat-\\ning in his new faith to make war upon Mahometan\\ndissenters, and follow the orthodox standard of the\\nProphet in fierce campaigns against the Wahabees,\\nwho are the Unitarians of the Mussulman world. The\\nWahabees were crushed, and Osman returning home\\nin triumph from his holy wars, began to flourish in the\\nworld he acquired property, and became effendi, or\\n1 It is said, that when a Mussulman finds himself attacked by\\nthe Plague, he goes, and takes a bath. The couches on which\\nthe bathers recline, would carry infection, according to the notion\\nof the Europeans. Whenever, therefore, I took the bath, at\\nCairo, (except the first time of my doing so) I avoided that part\\nof the luxury which consists in being put up to dry, upon a\\nkind of bed.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "176\\nEOTHEN\\ngentleman. At the time of my visit to Cairo, he\\nseemed to be much respected by his brother Maho-\\nmetans, and gave pledge of his sincere alienation from\\nChristianity by keeping a couple of wives. He affected\\nthe same sort of reserve in mentioning them as is\\ngenerally shewn by Orientals. He invited me, indeed,\\nto see his hareem, but he made both his wives bundle\\nout before I was admitted he felt, as it seemed to me,\\nthat neither of them would bear criticism, and I think\\nthat this idea, rather than any motive of sincere\\njealousy, induced him to keep them out of sight. The\\nrooms of the hareem reminded me of an English\\nnursery, rather than of a Mahometan paradise. One\\nis apt to judge of a woman before one sees her, by the\\nair of elegance, or coarseness, with which she surrounds\\nher home I judged Osman s wives by this test, and\\ncondemned them both. But the strangest feature in\\nOsman s character was his inextinguishable nationality.\\nIn vain they had brought him over the seas in early\\nboyhood in vain had he suffered captivity, conversion,\\ncircumcision in vain they had passed him through\\nfire in their Arabian campaigns they could not cut\\naway or burn out poor Osman s inborn love of all that\\nwas Scotch in vain men called him Effendi in vain\\nhe swept along in eastern robes in vain the rival\\nwives adorned his hareem the joy of his heart still\\nplainly lay in this, that he had three shelves of books,\\nand that the books were thorough-bred Scotch the\\nEdinburgh this the Edinburgh that, and above all, I\\nrecollect, he prided himself upon the Edinburgh\\nCabinet Library.\\nThe fear of the Plague is its forerunner. It is likely\\nenough, that at the time of my seeing poor Osman, the\\ndeadly taint was beginning to creep through his veins,\\nbut it was not till after I had left Cairo that he was\\nvisibly stricken. He died.\\nAs soon as I had seen all that I wanted to see in\\nCairo, and in the neighbourhood, I wished to make my\\nescape from a city that lay under the terrible curse of", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 177\\nthe Plague, but Mysseri fell ill, in consequence, I\\nbelieve, of the hardships which he had been suffering\\nin my service after a while he recovered sufficiently\\nto undertake a journey, but then there was some\\ndifficulty in procuring beasts of burthen, and it was not\\ntill the nineteenth day of my sojourn that I quitted the\\ncity.\\nDuring all this time the power of the Plague was\\nrapidly increasing. When I first arrived, it was said\\nthat the daily number of accidents by plague, out of\\na population of about 200,000, did not exceed four or\\nfive hundred, but before I went away, the deaths were\\nreckoned at twelve hundred a day. I had no means\\nof knowing whether the numbers (given out, as I be-\\nlieve they were by officials) were at all correct, but I\\ncould not help knowing that from day to day the\\nnumber of the dead was increasing. My quarters\\nwere in a street which was one of the chief thorough-\\nfares of the city. The funerals in Cairo take place\\nbetween daybreak and noon, and as I was generally in\\nmy rooms during this part of the day, I could form\\nsome opinion as to the briskness of the Plague. I\\ndon t mean this for a sly insinuation that I got up\\nevery morning with the sun. It was not so, but the\\nfunerals of most people in decent circumstances at\\nCairo are attended by singers and howlers, and the\\nperformances of these people woke me in the early\\nmorning, and prevented me from remaining in ignor-\\nance of what was going on in the street below.\\nThese funerals were very simply conducted. The\\nbier was a shallow wooden tray carried upon a light,\\nand weak wooden frame. The tray had, in general,\\nno lid, but the body was more or less hidden from view\\nby a shawl, or scarf. The whole was borne upon the\\nshoulders of men, who contrived to cut along with\\ntheir burthen at a great pace. Two or three singers\\ngenerally preceded the bier the howlers (who are\\npaid for their vocal labours) followed after, and last of\\nall came such of the dead man s friends, and relations\\nN", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "178\\nEOTHEN\\nas could keep up with such a rapid procession these,\\nespecially the women, would get terribly blown, and\\nwould straggle back into the rear many were fairly\\nbeaten off. I never observed any appearance of I\\nmourning in the mourners the pace was too severe j\\nfor any solemn affectation of grief.\\nWhen first I arrived at Cairo, the funerals that daily\\npassed under my windows were many, but still there\\nwere frequent, and long intervals without a single howl.\\nEvery day, however, (except one, when I fancied that\\nI observed a diminution of funerals) these intervals\\nbecame i ess frequent, and shorter, and at last, the\\npassing of the howlers from morn to noon was almost\\nincessant. I believe that about one half of the whole\\npeople was carried off by this visitation. The Orientals,\\nhowever, have more quiet fortitude than Europeans j\\nunder afflictions of this sort, and they never allow the\\nPlague to interfere with their religious usages. I rode\\none day round the great burial ground. The tombs\\nare strewed over a great expanse, among the vast\\nmountains of rubbish (the accumulations of many\\ncenturies) which surround the city. The ground, un- j\\nlike the Turkish cities of the dead, which are made\\nso beautiful by their dark cypresses, has nothing to\\nsweeten melancholy nothing to mitigate the odious-\\nness of death. Carnivorous beasts, and birds possess\\nthe place by night, and now in the fair morning it was\\nall alive with fresh comers alive with dead. Yet at\\nthis very time when the Plague was raging so furiously,\\nand on this very ground which resounded so mourn-\\nfully with the howls of arriving funerals, preparations\\nwere going on for the religious festival, called the\\nKourban Bairam. Tents were pitched, and swings\\nhung for the amusement of children a ghastly holiday\\nbut the Mahometans take a pride, and a just pride in\\nfollowing their ancient customs undisturbed by the\\nshadow of death.\\nI did not hear, whilst I was at Cairo, that any prayer\\nfor a remission of the Plague had been offered up in", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 179\\nthe mosques. I believe that, however frightful the\\nravages of the disease may be, the Mahometans re-\\nfrain from approaching Heaven with their complaints\\nuntil the Plague has endured for a long space, and\\nthen at last they pray God, not that the Plague may\\ncease, but that it may go to another city\\nA good Mussulman seems to take pride in repudiat-\\ning the European notion that the will of God can be\\neluded by eluding the touch of a sleeve. When I went\\nto see the Pyramids of Sakkara, I was the guest of a\\nnoble old fellow an Osmanlee, whose soft, rolling\\nlanguage it was a luxury to hear, after suffering as I\\nhad suffered of late from the shrieking tongue of the\\nArabs this man was aware of the European ideas\\nabout contagion, and his first care, therefore, was to\\nassure me that not a single instance of Plague had\\noccurred in his village he then inquired as to the\\nprogress of the Plague at Cairo I had but a bad\\naccount to give. Up to this time my host had care-\\nfully refrained from touching me, out of respect to the\\nEuropean theory of contagion, but as soon as it was\\nmade plain that he, and not I, would be the person en-\\ndangered by contact, he gently laid his hand upon my\\narm, in order to make me feel sure that the circumstance\\nof my coming from an infected city did not occasion\\nhim the least uneasiness. That touch was worthy of\\nJove.\\nVery different is the faith and the practice of the\\nEuropeans, or rather I mean of the Europeans settled\\nin the East, and commonly called Levantines. When\\nI came to the end of my journey over the desert, I had\\nbeen so long alone, that the prospect of speaking to\\nsomebody at Cairo seemed almost a new excitement.\\nI felt a sort of consciousness that I had a little of the\\nwild beast about me, but I was quite in the humour to\\nbe charmingly tame, and to be quite engaging in my\\nmanners, if I should have an opportunity of holding\\ncommunion with any of the human race whilst at Cairo.\\nI knew no one in the place, and had no letters of in-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "i8o\\nEOTHEN\\ntroduction, but I carried letters of credit, and it often\\nhappens in places remote from England, that those\\nadvices operate as a sort of introduction, and obtain\\nfor the bearer (if disposed to receive them) such\\nordinary civilities as it may be in the power of the\\nbanker to offer.\\nVery soon after my arrival, I went to the house of\\nthe Levantine, to whom my credentials were addressed.\\nAt his door several persons (all Arabs) were hanging\\nabout, and keeping guard. It was not till after some\\ndelay, and the passing of some communications with\\nthose in the interior of the citadel, that I was admitted.\\nAt length, however, I was conducted through the court,\\nand up a flight of stairs, and finally into the apart-\\nment where business was transacted. The room was\\ndivided by an excellent, substantial fence of iron bars,\\nand behind this grille, the banker had his station.\\nThe truth was, that from fear of the Plague, he had\\nadopted the course usually taken by European residents,\\nand had shut himself up in strict quarantine, that\\nis to say, that he had, as he hoped, cut himself off from\\nall communication with infecting substances. The\\nEuropeans long resident in the East, without any, or\\nwith scarcely any exception, are firmly convinced that\\nthe plague is propagated by contact, and by contact\\nonly that if they can but avoid the touch of an infecting\\nsubstance, they are safe, and that if they cannot, they\\ndie. This belief induces them to adopt the contrivance\\nof putting themselves in that state of siege which they\\ncall Quarantine. It is a part of their faith that\\nmetals, and hempen rope, and also, I fancy, one or two\\nother substances, will not carry the infection and they\\nlikewise believe that the germ of Pestilence, which lies\\nin an infected substance, may be destroyed by sub-\\nmersion in water, or by the action of smoke. They,\\ntherefore, guard the doors of their houses with the\\nutmost care against intrusion, and condemn themselves,\\nand all the members of their family, including any\\nEuropean servants, to a strict imprisonment within", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 181\\nthe walls of their dwelling. Their native attendants\\nare not allowed to enter at all, but they make the\\nnecessary purchases of provisions, which are hauled\\nup through one of the windows by means of a rope,\\nand are then soaked in water.\\nI knew nothing of these mysteries, and was not\\ntherefore prepared for the sort of reception which I\\nmet with. I advanced to the iron fence, and putting\\nmy letter between the bars, politely proffered it to Mr.\\nBanker. Mr. Banker received me with a sad, and\\ndejected look, and not with open arms, or with any\\narms at all, but with a pair of tongs I placed my\\nletter between the iron fingers which picked it up as if\\nit were a viper, and conveyed it away to be scorched,\\nand purified by fire, and smoke. I was disgusted at\\nthis reception, and at the idea that anything of mine\\ncould carry infection to the poor wretch, who stood on\\nthe other side of the grille pale, and trembling, and\\nalready meet for Death. I looked with something of\\nthe Mahometan s feeling upon these little contrivances\\nfor eluding fate and in this instance at least they\\nwere vain a few more days, and the poor money-\\nchanger who had strived to guard the days of his life\\n(as though they were coins) with bolts, and bars of\\niron he was seized by the Plague, and he died.\\nTo people entertaining such opinions as these re-\\nspecting the fatal effect of contact, the narrow, and\\ncrowded streets of Cairo were terrible as the easy slope\\nthat leads to Avernus. The roaring Ocean, and the\\nbeetling crags owe something of their sublimity to this\\nthat if they be tempted they can take the warm life\\nof a man. To the contagionist, filled as he is with the\\ndread of final causes, having no faith in Destiny, nor\\nin the fixed will of God, and with none of the devil-\\nmay-care indifference which might stand him instead\\nof creeds to such one, every rag that shivers in the\\nbreeze of a Plague-stricken city has this sort of sublimity.\\nIf by any terrible ordinance he be forced to venture\\nforth, he sees Death dangling from every sleeve, and", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "182\\nEOTHEN\\nas he creeps forward, he poises his shuddering limbs\\nbetween the imminent jacket that is stabbing at his\\nright elbow, and the murderous pelisse, that threatens\\nto mow him clean down, as it sweeps along on his left.\\nBut most of all he dreads that which most of all he\\nshould love the touch of a woman s dress, for mothers,\\nand wives hurrying forth on kindly errands from the\\nbedsides of the dying, go slouching along through the\\nstreets more wilfully, and less courteously than the\\nmen. For a while it may be, that the caution of the\\npoor Levantine may enable him to avoid contact, but\\nsooner, or later, perhaps, the dreaded chance arrives\\nthat bundle of linen, with the dark tearful eyes at the\\ntop of it, that labours along with the voluptuous clumsi-\\nness of Grisi she has touched the poor Levantine\\nwith the hem of her sleeve from that dread moment\\nhis peace is gone his mind for ever hanging upon the\\nfatal touch, invites the blow which he fears he watches\\nfor the symptoms of plague so carefully, that sooner\\nor later they come in truth. The parched mouth is a\\nsign his mouth is parched the throbbing brain his\\nbrain does throb the rapid pulse he touches his own\\nwrist (for he dares not ask counsel of any man lest he\\nbe deserted), he touches his wrist, and feels how his\\nfrighted blood goes galloping out of his heart there is\\nnothing but the fatal swelling that is wanting to make\\nhis sad conviction complete immediately he has an\\nodd feel under the arm no pain, but a little strain-\\ning of the skin he would to God it were his fancy that\\nwere strong enough to give him that sensation this is\\nthe worst of all it now seems to him that he could be\\nhappy, and contented with his parched mouth, and his\\nthrobbing brain, and his rapid pulse, if only he could\\nknow that there were no swelling under the left arm\\nbut dares he try in a moment of calmness, and de-\\nliberation he dares not, but when for a while he has\\nwrithed under the torture of suspense, a sudden strength\\nof will drives him to seek, and know his fate he\\ntouches the gland, and finds the skin sane, and sound,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 183\\nbut under the cuticle there lies a small lump like a\\npistol bullet that moves as he pushes it. Oh but is\\nthis for all certainty, is this the sentence of death feel\\nthe gland of the other arm there is not the same lump\\nexactly, yet something a little like it have not some\\npeople glands naturally enlarged would to Heaven\\nhe were one So he does for himself the work of the\\nPlague, and when the Angel of Death, thus courted,\\ndoes indeed, and in truth come, he has only to finish\\nthat which has been so well begun he passes his fiery\\nhand over the brain of the victim, and lets him rave\\nfor a season, but all chance-wise of people, and things\\nonce dear, or of people, and things indifferent. Once\\nmore the poor fellow is back at his home in fair Pro-\\nvence, and sees the sun-dial that stood in his child-\\nhood^ garden sees part of his mother, and the long-\\nsince-forgotten face of that little dead sister (he sees\\nher, he says, on a Sunday morning, for all the church\\nbells are ringing he looks up and down through the\\nuniverse, and owns it well piled with bales, upon bales\\nof cotton, and cotton eternal so much so, that he feels\\nhe knows he swears he could make that winning\\nhazard, if the billiard table would not slant upwards,\\nand if the cue were a cue worth playing with; but it is\\nnot it s a cue that won t move his own arm won t\\nmove in short, there s the devil to pay in the brain\\nof the poor Levantine, and, perhaps, the next night\\nbut one he becomes the life and the soul of some\\nsqualling jackal family, who fish him out by the foot\\nfrom his shallow, and sandy grave.\\nBetter fate was mine by some happy perverseness,\\n(occasioned perhaps by my disgust at the notion of\\nbeing received with a pair of tongs,) I took it into my\\npleasant head that all the European notions about con-\\ntagion were thoroughly unfounded, that the Plague\\nmight be providential, or epidemic, (as they phrase\\nit,) but was not contagious, and that I could not be\\nkilled by the touch of a woman s sleeve, nor yet by\\nher blessed breath. I therefore determined that the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "184\\nEOTHEN\\nPlague should not alter my habits and amusements in\\nany one respect. Though I came to this resolve from\\nimpulse, I think that I took the course which was in\\neffect the most prudent, for the cheerfulness of spirits\\nwhich I was thus enabled to retain, discouraged the\\nyellow-winged Angel, and prevented him from taking\\na shot at me. I however so far respected the opinion\\nof the Europeans, that I avoided touching, when I\\ncould do so without privation, or inconvenience. This\\nendeavour furnished me with a sort of amusement as I\\npassed through the streets. The usual mode of moving\\nfrom place to place in the city of Cairo, is upon donkeys,\\nof which great numbers are always in readiness, with\\ndonkey-boys attached. I had two, who constantly\\n(until one of them died of the Plague) waited at my\\ndoor upon the chance of being wanted. I found this\\nway of moving about exceedingly pleasant, and never\\nattempted any other. I had only to mount my beast,\\nand tell my donkey-boy the point for which I was\\nbound, and instantly I began to glide on at a capital\\npace. The streets of Cairo are not paved in any way,\\nbut strewed with a dry sandy soil, so deadening to\\nsound, that the foot-fall of my donkey could scarcely\\nbe heard. There is no trottoir, and as you ride through\\nthe streets, you mingle with the people on foot those\\nwho are in your way, upon being warned by the shouts\\nof the donkey-boy move very slightly aside, so as to\\nleave you a narrow lane through which you pass at a\\ngallop. In this way you glide on delightfully in the\\nvery midst of crowds, without being inconvenienced or\\nstopped for a moment it seems to you that it is not\\nthe donkey, but the donkey-boy who wafts you on with\\nhis shouts through pleasant groups, and air that\\nfeels thick with the fragrance of burial spice. Eh\\nSheik, Eh Bint, reggalek, shumalek, c. c.\\nO old man, O virgin, get out of the way on the right\\nO virgin, O old man, get out of the way on the left,\\nthis Englishman comes, he comes, he comes The\\nnarrow alley which these shouts cleared for my passage", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 185\\nmade it possible, though difficult, to go on for a long\\nway without touching a single person, and my en-\\ndeavours to avoid such contact were a sort of game for\\nme in my loneliness, which was not without interest.\\nIf I got through a street without being touched, I won\\nif I was touched, I lost, lost a deuce of a stake,\\naccording to the theory of the Europeans, but that I\\ndeemed to be all nonsense, I only lost that game, and\\nwould certainly win the next.\\nThere is not much in the way of public buildings\\nto admire at Cairo, but I saw one handsome mosque,\\nto which an instructive history is attached. A Hindo-\\nstanee merchant, having amassed an immense fortune,\\nsettled in Cairo, and soon found that his riches in the\\nthen state of the political world gave him vast power\\nin the city, power, however, the exercise of which was\\nmuch restrained by the counteracting influence of other\\nwealthy men. With a view to extinguish every attempt\\nat rivalry the Hindostanee merchant built this mag-\\nnificent mosque at his own expense when the work\\nwas complete, he invited all the leading men of the\\ncity to join him in prayer within the walls of the\\nnewly-built temple, and he then caused to be massacred\\nall those who were sufficiently influential to cause him\\nany jealousy, or uneasiness, in short, all the respect-\\nable men of the place after this he possessed un-\\ndisputed power in the city, and was greatly revered,\\nhe is revered to this day. It seemed to me that\\nthere was a touching simplicity in the mode which this\\nman so successfully adopted for gaining the confidence,\\nand good will of his fellow-citizens. There seems to\\nbe some improbability in the story, (though not nearly\\nso gross as it might appear to an European ignorant of\\nthe East, for witness Mehemet Ali s destruction of the\\nMamelukes, a closely similar act, and attended with\\nthe like brilliant success, 1 but even if the story be\\n1 Mehemet Ali invited the Mamelukes to a feast, and murdered\\nthem in the Banquet Hall.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "i86\\nEOTHEN\\nfalse, as a mere fact, it is perfectly true as an illus-\\ntration, it is a true exposition of the means by\\nwhich the respect, and affection of Orientals may be\\nconciliated.\\nI ascended one day to the citadel which commands\\na superb view of the town. The fanciful, and elaborate\\ngilt-work of the many minarets gives a light, and florid\\ngrace to the city as seen from this height, but before\\nyou can look for many seconds at such things, your\\neyes are drawn westward drawn westward, and over\\nthe Nile till they rest with a heavy stare upon the\\nmassive enormities of the Ghizeh pyramids.\\nI saw within the fortress many yoke of men, all\\nhaggard, and woe-begone, and a kennel of very fine\\nlions well fed and flourishing; I say yoke of men, for\\nthe poor fellows were working together in bonds I\\nsay a kennel of lions for the beasts were not enclosed\\nin cages, but simply chained up like dogs.\\nI went round the Bazaars it seemed to me that\\npipes, and arms were cheaper here than at Constan-\\ntinople, and I should advise you therefore if you go to\\nboth places to prefer the market of Cairo. I had pre-\\nviously bought several of such things at Constantinople,\\nand did not choose to encumber myself, or to speak\\nmore honestly I did not choose to disencumber my\\npurse by making any more purchases. In the open\\nslave-market I saw about fifty girls exposed for sale,\\nbut all of them black, or invisible M brown. A slave\\nagent took me to some rooms in the upper story of the\\nbuilding, and also into several obscure houses in the\\nneighbourhood, with a view to shew me some white\\nwomen. The owners raised various objections to the\\ndisplay of their ware, and well they might, for I had\\nnot the least notion of purchasing some refused on\\naccount of the illegality of the proceeding, 1 and others\\ndeclared that all transactions of this sort were com-\\npletely out of the question as long as the Plague was\\n1 It is not strictly lawful to sell white slaves to a Christian.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 187\\nraging. I only succeeded in seeing one white slave\\nwho was for sale, but on this one the owner affected to\\nset an immense value, and raised my expectations to\\na high pitch, by saying that the girl was Circassian,\\nand was fair as the full Moon. After a good deal of\\ndelay, I was at last led into a room, at the farther end\\nof which was that mass of white linen which indicates\\nan Eastern woman she was bid to uncover her face,\\nand I presently saw that though very far from being\\ngood looking according to my notion of beauty, she\\nhad not been inaptly described by the man who com-\\npared her to the full Moon, for her large face was per-\\nfectly round, and perfectly white. Though very young,\\nshe was nevertheless extremely fat. She gave me the\\nidea of having been got up for sale, of having been\\nfattened, and whitened by medicines, or by some\\npeculiar diet. I was firmly determined not to see any\\nmore of her than the face she was perhaps disgusted\\nat this my virtuous resolve, as well as with my personal\\nappearance, perhaps she saw my distaste, and dis-\\nappointment perhaps she wished to gain favour with\\nher owner by shewing her attachment to his faith\\nat all events she holloaed out very lustily, and very\\ndecidedly that, she would not be bought by the\\nInfidel.\\nWhilst I remained at Cairo, I thought it worth while\\nto see something of the Magicians, who may be con-\\nsidered as it were the descendants of those who con-\\ntended so stoutly against the superior power of Aaron.\\nI therefore sent for an old man who was held to be the\\nchief of the Magicians, and desired him to shew me\\nthe wonders of his art. The old man looked, and\\ndressed his character exceedingly well the vast\\nturban, the flowing beard, and the ample robes were\\nall that one could wish in the way of appearance. The\\nfirst experiment (a very stale one,) which he attempted\\nto perform for me, was that of attempting to shew\\nthe forms, and faces of my absent friends, not to me,\\nbut to a boy brought in from the streets for the", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\npurpose, and said to be chosen at random. A mangale\\n(pan of burning charcoal) was brought into my room,\\nand the Magician bending over it, sprinkled upon the\\nfire some substances which must have consisted partly\\nof spices, or sweetly burning woods, for immediately a\\nfragrant smoke arose, which curled round the bending\\nform of the Wizard, the while that he pronounced his\\nfirst incantations when these were over, the boy was\\nmade to sit down, and a common green shade was\\nbound over his brow then the Wizard took ink, and\\nstill continuing his incantations, wrote certain mys-\\nterious figures upon the boy s palm, and directed him\\nto rivet his attention to these marks, without looking\\naside for an instant again the incantations proceeded,\\nand after a while the boy being seemingly a little\\nagitated, was asked whether he saw anything on the\\npalm of his hand he declared that he saw a kind of\\nmilitary procession with flags, and banners which he\\ndescribed rather minutely. I was then called upon to\\nname the absent person whose form was to be made\\nvisible. I named Keate. You were not at Eton, and\\nI must tell you, therefore, what manner of man it was\\nthat I named, though I think you must have some\\nidea of him already, for wherever from utmost Canada\\nto Bundelcund, wherever there was the white-washed\\nwall of an officer s room, or of any other apartment in\\nwhich English gentlemen are forced to kick their\\nheels, there, likely enough (in the days of his reign,)\\nthe head of Keate would be seen, scratched, or drawn\\nwith those various degrees of skill which one observes\\nin the representations of Saints. Any body without\\nthe least notion of drawing could still draw a speaking,\\nnay scolding likeness of Keate. If you had no pencil,\\nyou could draw him well enough with a poker, or the\\nleg of a chair, or the smoke of a candle. He was little\\nmore (if more at all) than five feet in height, and was\\nnot very great in girth, but in this space was con-\\ncentrated the pluck of ten battalions. He had a really\\nnoble voice, which he could modulate with great skill,", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 189\\nbut he had also the power of quacking like an angry-\\nduck, and he almost always adopted this mode of\\ncommunication in order to inspire respect he was a\\ncapital scholar, but his ingenuous learning had not\\nsoftened his manners, and had permitted them to\\nbe fierce tremendously fierce he had the most\\ncomplete command over his temper I mean, over his\\ngood temper, which he scarcely ever allowed to appear\\nyou could not put him out of humour that is out of\\nthe ///-humour which he thought to be fitting for a\\nhead master. His red, shaggy eyebrows were so pro-\\nminent, that he habitually used them as arms, and\\nhands for the purpose of pointing out any object\\ntowards which he wished to direct attention and the\\nrest of his features were equally striking in their way,\\nand. were all and all his own he wore a fancy dress,\\npartly resembling the costume of Napoleon, and partly\\nthat of a widow-woman. I could not by any pos-\\nsibility have named anybody more decidedly differing\\nin appearance from the rest of the human race.\\nWhom do you name I name John Keate.\\nNow, what do you see said the Wizard to the\\nboy. I see, answered the boy, I see a fair girl\\nwith golden hair, blue eyes, pallid face, rosy lips.\\nThere was a shot I shouted out my laughter to the\\nhorror of the Wizard, who perceiving the grossness of\\nhis failure, declared that the boy must have known\\nsin, (for none but the innocent can see truth) and ac-\\ncordingly kicked him down stairs.\\nOne or two other boys were tried, but none could\\nsee truth they all made sadly bad shots.\\nNotwithstanding the failure of these experiments, I\\nwished to see what sort of mummery my Magician\\nwould practise if I called upon him to shew me some\\nperformances of a higher order than those which had\\nbeen attempted I therefore entered into a treaty with\\nhim, in virtue of which he was to descend with me into\\nthe tombs near the Pyramids, and there evoke the\\nDevil. The negotiation lasted some time, for Dthe-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "190\\nEOTHEN\\nmetri, as in duty bound, tried to beat down the Wizard\\nas much as he could, and the Wizard on his part, man-\\nfully stuck up for his price, declaring that to raise the\\nDevil was really no joke, and insinuating that to do so\\nwas an awesome crime. I let Dthemetri have his way\\nin the negotiation, but I felt in reality very indifferent\\nabout the sum to be paid, and for this reason, namely,\\nthat the payment, (except a very small present, which\\nI might make, or not, as I chose) was to be contingent\\non success. At length the bargain was made, and it\\nwas arranged that after a few days to be allowed for\\npreparation, the Wizard should raise the Devil for two\\npounds ten, play or pay no Devil, no piastres.\\nThe Wizard failed to keep his appointment. I sent\\nto know why the deuce he had not come to raise the\\nDevil. The truth was, that my Mahomet had gone to\\nthe mountain. The Plague had seized him, and he\\ndied.\\nAlthough the Plague had now spread terrible havoc\\naround him, I did not see very plainly any correspond-\\ning change in the look of the streets until the seventh\\nday after my arrival I then first observed that the\\ncity was silenced. There was no outward signs of\\nDespair, nor of violent terror, but many of the voices\\nthat had swelled the busy hum of men were already\\nhushed in death, and the survivors, so used to scream,\\nand screech in their earnestness whenever they bought,\\nor sold, now shewed an unwonted indifference about\\nthe affairs of this world it was less worth while for\\nmen to haggle, and haggle, and crack the sky with\\nnoisy bargains, when the Great Commander was there,\\nwho could pay all their debts with the roll of his\\ndrum.\\nAt this time, (the year was 1835,) waLS informed\\nthat of 25,000 people at Alexandria, 12,000 had died\\nalready the Destroyer had come rather later to Cairo,\\nbut there was nothing of weariness in his strides. The\\ndeaths came faster than ever they befell in the Plague\\nof London, but the calmness of Orientals under such", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 191\\nvisitations, and the habit of using biers for interment,\\ninstead of burying coffins along with the bodies,\\nrendered it practicable to dispose of the Dead in the\\nusual way, without shocking the people by any un-\\naccustomed spectacle of horror. There was no tum-\\nbling of bodies into carts as in the Plague of Florence,\\nand the Plague of London every man, according to\\nhis station, was properly buried, and that in the usual\\nway, except that he went to his grave at a more hurried\\npace than might have been adopted under ordinary\\ncircumstances.\\nThe funerals, which poured through the streets, were\\nnot the only public evidence of deaths. In Cairo this\\ncustom prevails at the instant of a man s death, (if\\nhis property is sufficient to justify the expense) pro-\\nfessional howlers are employed I believe that these\\npersons are brought near to the dying man, when his\\nend appears to be approaching, and the moment that\\nlife is gone, they lift up their voices, and send forth a\\nloud wail from the chamber of Death. Thus I knew\\nwhen my near neighbours died sometimes the howls\\nwere near sometimes more distant. Once I was\\nawakened in the night by the wail of death in the next\\nhouse, and another time by a like howl from the house\\nopposite and there were two or three minutes, I\\nrecollect, during which the howl seemed to be actually\\nrunning along the street.\\nI happened to be rather teazed at this time by a sore\\nthroat, and I thought it would be well to get it cured,\\nif I could, before I again started on my travels. I\\ntherefore inquired for a Frank doctor, and was in-\\nformed that the only one then at Cairo was a young\\nBolognese Refugee, who was so poor that he had not\\nbeen able to take flight, as the other medical men had\\ndone. At such a time as this, it was out of the question\\nto send for an European physician a person thus\\nsummoned would be sure to suppose that the patient\\nwas ill of the Plague, and would decline to come. I\\ntherefore rode to the young Doctor s residence after", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "192\\nEOTHEN\\nexperiencing some little difficulty in finding where to\\nlook for him, I ascended a flight or two of stairs, and\\nknocked at his door. No one came immediately, but\\nafter some little delay the Medico himself opened the\\ndoor, and admitted me. I, of course, made him under-\\nstand that I had come to consult him, but before enter-\\ning upon my throat grievance, I accepted a chair, and\\nexchanged a sentence or two of common-place con-\\nversation. Now the natural common-place of the city at\\nthis season was of a gloomy sort Come va la peste\\n(how goes the plague?) and this was precisely the\\nquestion I put. A deep sigh, and the words Sette\\ncento per giorno, Signor, (seven hundred a day), pro-\\nnounced in a tone of the deepest sadness and dejection,\\nwere the answer I received. The day was not oppres-\\nsively hot, yet I saw that the Doctor was transpiring\\nprofusely, and even the outside surface of the thick\\nshawl dressing gown, in which he had wrapped him-\\nself appeared to be moist he was a handsome,\\npleasant-looking, young fellow, but the deep melancholy\\nof his tone did not tempt me to prolong the conversa-\\ntion, and without farther delay, I requested that my\\nthroat might be looked at. The Medico held my chin\\nin the usual way, and examined my throat he then\\nwrote me a prescription, and almost immediately after-\\nwards I bid him farewell, but as he conducted me\\ntowards the door I observed an expression of strange,\\nand unhappy watchfulness in his rolling eyes. It was\\nnot the next day, but the next day but one, if I rightly\\nremember, that I sent to request another interview with\\nmy Doctor in due time Dthemetri, who was my\\nmessenger, returned, looking sadly aghast he had\\nmet the Medico, for so he phrased it, coming out\\nfrom his house in a bier\\nIt was of course plain that when the poor Bolognese\\nwas looking at my throat, and almost mingling his\\nbreath with mine, he was stricken of the Plague. I\\nsuppose that the violent sweat in which I found him\\nhad been produced by some medicine, which he must", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 193\\nhave taken in the hope of curing himself. The peculiar\\nrolling of the eyes which I had remarked, is, I believe,\\nto experienced observers, a pretty sure test of the\\nPlague. A Russian acquaintance of mine, speaking\\nfrom the information of men who had made the Turkish\\ncampaigns of 1828, and 1829, told me that by this sign\\nthe officers of Sabalkansky s force were able to make\\nout the Plague-stricken soldiers with a good deal of\\ncertainty.\\nIt so happened that most of the people with whom I\\nhad anything to do, during my stay at Cairo, were\\nseized with Plague, and all these died. Since I had\\nbeen for a long time en route before I reached Egypt,\\nand was about to start again for another long journey\\nover the Desert, there were of course many little\\nmatters touching my wardrobe, and my travelling\\nequipments, which required to be attended to whilst I\\nremained in the city. It happened so many times\\nthat Dthemetri s orders in respect to these matters\\nwere frustrated by the deaths of the tradespeople, and\\nothers whom he employed, that at last I became quite\\naccustomed to the peculiar manner which he assumed\\nwhen he prepared to announce a new death to me.\\nThe poor fellow naturally supposed that I should feel\\nsome uneasiness at hearing of the accidents which\\nhappened to persons employed by me, and he therefore\\ncommunicated their deaths, as though they were the\\ndeaths of friends he would cast down his eyes, and\\nlook like a man abashed, and then gently, and with a\\nmournful gesture allow the words Morto, Signor, to\\ncome through his lips. I don t know how many of\\nsuch instances occurred, but they were several, and\\nbesides these (as I told you before,) my banker, my\\ndoctor, my landlord, and my magician, all died of the\\nPlague. A lad who acted as a helper in the house\\nwhich I occupied, lost a brother, and a sister within a\\nfew hours. Out of my two established donkey-boys\\none died. I did not hear of any instance in which a\\nplague-stricken patient had recovered.\\nO", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "194\\nEOTHEN\\nGoing out one morning, I met unexpectedly the\\nscorching breath of the Khamseen wind, and fearing\\nthat I should faint under the horrible sensations which\\nit caused, I returned to my rooms. Reflecting, how-\\never, that I might have to encounter this wind in the\\ndesert, where there would be no possibility of avoiding\\nit, I thought it would be better to brave it once more\\nin the city, and to try whether I could really bear it or\\nnot. I therefore mounted my ass, and rode to old\\nCairo, and along the gardens by the banks of the Nile.\\nThe wind was hot to the touch as though it came from\\na furnace it blew strongly, but yet with such perfect\\nsteadiness, that the trees bending under its force re-\\nmained fixed in the same curves without perceptibly\\nwaving the whole sky was obscured by a veil of\\nyellowish gray, which shut out the face of the sun.\\nThe streets were utterly silent, being indeed almost\\nentirely deserted, and not without cause, for the scorch-\\ning blast, whilst it fevers the blood, closes up the pores\\nof the skin, and is terribly distressing, therefore, to\\nevery animal that encounters tit. I returned to my\\nrooms dreadfully ill. My head ached with a burning\\npain, and my pulse bounded quick, and fitfully, but\\nperhaps, (as in the instance of the poor Levantine,\\nwhose death I was mentioning,) the fear, and excite-\\nment which I felt in trying my own wrist, may have\\nmade my blood flutter the faster.\\nIt is a thoroughly well believed theory, that during\\nthe continuance of the Plague, you can t be ill of any\\nother febrile malady an unpleasant privilege that\\nfor ill I was, and ill of fever, and I anxiously wished\\nthat the ailment might turn out to be anything rather\\nthan Plague. I had some right to surmise that my\\nillness may have been merely the effect of the hot\\nwind, and this notion was encouraged by the elasticity\\nof my spirits, and by a strong forefeeling that much of\\nmy destined life in this world was yet to come, and yet\\nto be fulfilled. That was my instinctive belief, but\\nwhen I carefully weighed the probabilities on the one", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 195\\nside, and on the other, I could not help seeing that the\\nstrength of argument was all against me. There was\\na strong antecedent likelihood in favour of my being\\nstruck by the same blow, as the rest of the people who\\nhad been dying around me. Besides, it occurred to\\nme, that after all, the universal opinion of the Euro-\\npeans upon a medical question, such as that of con-\\ntagion might probably be correct, and if it were^ I was\\nso thoroughly compromised, and especially by the\\ntouch, and breath of the dying Medico, that 1 had no\\nright to expect any other fate than that which now\\nseemed to have overtaken me. Balancing as well as\\nI could all the considerations which hope, and fear\\nsuggested, I slowly, and reluctantly came to the con-\\nclusion that according to all merely reasonable prob-\\nability the Plague had come upon me.\\nYou would supfpose that this conviction would have\\ninduced me to write a few farewell lines to those who\\nwere dearest, and that having done that, I should have\\nturned my thoughts towards the world to come. Such,\\nhowever, was not the case I believe that the prospect\\nof death often brings with it strong anxieties about\\nmatters of comparatively trivial import, and certainly\\nwith me the whole energy of the mind was directed\\ntowards the one petty object of concealing my illness\\nuntil the latest possible moment until the delirious\\nstage. I did not believe that either Mysseri, or\\nDthemetri, who had served me so faithfully in all\\ntrials, would have deserted me (as most Europeans\\nare wont to do) when they knew that I was stricken\\nby Plague, but I shrank from the idea of putting them\\nto this test, and I dreaded the consternation which the\\nknowledge of my illness would be sure to occasion.\\nI was very ill indeed at the moment when my dinner\\nwas served, and my soul sickened at the sight of the\\nfood, but I had luckily the habit of dispensing with the\\nattendance of servants during my meal, and as soon as\\nI was left alone, I made a melancholy calculation of\\nthe quantity of food which I should have eaten if I", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "EOTHEN\\nhad been in my usual health, and filled my plates\\naccordingly, and gave myself salt, and so on, as though\\nI were going to dine; I then transferred the viands to\\na piece of the omnipresent Times newspaper, and\\nhid them away in a cupboard, for it was not yet night,\\nand I dared not to throw the food into the street until\\ndarkness came. I did not at all relish this process of\\nfictitious dining, but at length the cloth was removed,\\nand I gladly reclined on my divan, (I would not lie\\ndown,) with the Arabian Nights in my hand.\\nI had a feeling that tea would be a capital thing for\\nme, but I would not order it until the usual hour.\\nWhen at last the time came, I drank deep draughts\\nfrom the fragrant cup. The effect was almost instan-\\ntaneous. A plenteous sweat burst through my skin,\\nand watered my clothes through and through. I kept\\nmyself thickly covered. The hot, tormenting weight\\nwhich had been loading my brain was slowly heaved\\naway. The fever was extinguished. I felt a new\\nbuoyancy of spirits, and an unusual activity of mind.\\nI went into my bed under a load of thick covering,\\nand when the morning came, and I asked myself how\\nI was, I found that I was thoroughly well.\\nI was very anxious to procure, if possible, some\\nmedical advice for Mysseri, whose illness prevented\\nmy departure. Every one of the European practising\\ndoctors, of whom there had been many, had either\\ndied or fled it was said, however, that there was an\\nEnglishman in the medical service of the Pasha, who\\nquietly remained at his post, but that he never engaged\\nin private practice. I determined to try if I could\\nobtain assistance in this quarter. I did not venture at\\nfirst, and at such a time as this to ask him to visit\\na servant who was prostrate on the bed of sickness,\\nbut thinking that I might thus gain an opportunity of\\npersuading him to attend Mysseri, I wrote a note\\nmentioning my own affair of the sore throat, and ask-\\ning for the benefit of his medical advice he instantly\\nfollowed back my messenger, and was at once shewn", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "CAIRO AND THE PLAGUE 197\\nup into my room I entreated him to stand off, telling\\nhim fairly how deeply I was compromised, and\\nespecially by my contact with a person actually ill, and\\nsince dead of Plague. The generous fellow, with a\\ngood-humoured laugh at the terrors of the contagion-\\nists, marched straight up to me, and forcibly seized my\\nhand, and shook it with manly violence. I felt grate-\\nful indeed, and swelled with fresh pride of race, because\\nthat my countryman could carry himself so nobly. He\\nsoon cured Mysseri, as well as me, and all this he did\\nfrom no other motives than the pleasure of doing a\\nkindness, and the delight of braving a danger.\\nAt length the great difficulty 1 which I had had in\\nprocuring beasts for my departure was overcome, and\\nnow, too, I was to have the new excitement of travel-\\nling on dromedaries. With two of these beasts, and\\nthree camels, I gladly wound my way from out of the\\npest-stricken city. As I passed through the streets, I\\nobserved a fanatical-looking elder, who stretched forth\\nhis arms, and lifted up his voice in a speech which\\nseemed to have some reference to me requiring an\\ninterpretation, I found that the man had said, The\\nPasha seeks camels, and he finds them not the Eng-\\nlishman says, let camels be brought, 5 and behold\\nthere they are\\nI no sooner breathed the free, wholesome air of the\\ndesert, than I felt that a great burthen which I had\\nbeen scarcely conscious of bearing, was lifted away\\nfrom my mind. For nearly three weeks I had lived\\nunder peril of death the peril ceased, and not till then\\ndid I know how much alarm, and anxiety I had really\\nbeen suffering.\\n1 The difficulty was occasioned by the immense exertions\\nwhich the Pasha was making to collect camels for military pur-\\nposes.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIX\\nTHE PYRAMIDS\\nI WE NT to see, and to explore the Pyramids.\\nFamiliar to one from the days of early childhood\\nare the forms of the Egyptian Pyramids, and now, as\\nI approached them from the banks of the Nile, I had\\nno print, no picture before me, and yet the old shapes\\nwere there there was no change they were just as I\\nhad always known them. I straightened myself in my\\nstirrups, and strived to persuade my understanding\\nthat this was real Egypt, and that those angles which\\nstood up between me and the West were of harder\\nstuff, and more ancient than the paper pyramids of the\\ngreen portfolio. Yet it was not till I came to the base\\nof the great Pyramid, that reality began to weigh\\nupon my mind. Strange to say, the bigness of the\\ndistinct blocks of stone was the first sign by which I\\nattained to feel the immensity of the whole pile. When\\nI came, and trod, and touched with my hands, and\\nclimbed, in order that by climbing I might come to\\nthe top of one single stone, then, and almost suddenly,\\na cold sense and understanding of the Pyramid s\\nenormity, came down overcasting my brain.\\nNow try to endure this homely, sick-nursish illustra-\\ntion of the effect produced upon one s mind by the\\nmere vastness of the great Pyramid when I was very\\nyoung (between the ages, I believe, of three, and five\\nyears old,) being then of delicate health, I was often\\nin time of night the victim of a strange kind of mental\\noppression I lay in my bed perfectly conscious, and", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "THE PYRAMIDS\\n199\\nwith open eyes, but without power to speak, or to\\nmove, and all the while my brain was oppressed to\\ndistraction by the presence of a single, and abstract\\nidea, the idea of solid Immensity. It seemed to me\\nin my agonies, that the horror of this visitation arose\\nfrom its coming upon me without form, or shape that\\nthe close presence of the direst monster ever bred in\\nHell would have been a thousand times more tolerable,\\nthan that simple idea of solid size my aching mind\\nwas fixed, and ri vetted down upon the mere quality of\\nvastness, vastness, vastness and was not permitted\\nto invest with it any particular object. If I could have\\ndone so, the torment would have ceased. When at\\nlast I was roused from this state of suffering, I could\\nnot of course in those days (knowing no verbal meta-\\nphysics, and no metaphysics at all, except by the\\ndreadful experience of an abstract idea,) I could not\\nof course find words to describe the nature of my\\nsensations, and even now I cannot explain why it is\\nthat the forced contemplation of a mere quality, dis-\\ntinct from matter, should be so terrible. Well, now\\nmy eyes saw and knew, and my hands and my feet in-\\nformed my understanding that there was nothing at\\nall abstract about the great Pyramid, it was a big\\ntriangle, sufficiently concrete, easy to see, and rough\\nto the touch it could not, of course, affect me with\\nthe peculiar sensation which I had been talking of,\\nbut yet there was something akin to that old night-\\nmare agony in the terrible completeness with which\\na mere mass of masonry could fill, and load my\\nmind.\\nAnd Time too the remoteness of its origin, no less\\nthan the enormity of its proportions, screens an\\nEgyptian Pyramid from the easy, and familiar contact\\nof our modern minds at its base the common Earth\\nends, and all above is a world, one not created of\\nGod, not seeming to be made by men s hands, but\\nrather, the sheer giant-work of some old dismal age\\nweighing down this younger planet.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "200\\nEOTHEN\\nFine sayings but the truth seems to be, after all,\\nthat the Pyramids are quite of this world that they\\nwere piled up into the air for the realization of some\\nkingly crotchets about immortality, some priestly\\nlonging for burial fees and that as for the building\\nthey were built like coral rocks by swarms of insects,\\nby swarms of poor Egyptians, who were not only the\\nabject tools, and slaves of power, but who also eat\\nonions for the reward of their immortal labours 1\\nThe Pyramids are quite of this world.\\n1 of course ascended to the summit of the great\\nPyramid, and also explored its chambers, but these I\\nneed not describe. The first time that I went to the\\nPyramids of Ghizeh, there were a number of Arabs\\nhanging about in its neighbourhood, and wanting to\\nreceive presents on various pretences their Sheik was\\nwith them. There was also present an ill-looking\\nfellow in soldier s uniform. This man on my departure\\nclaimed a reward, on the ground that he had main-\\ntained order and decorum amongst the Arabs his\\nclaim was not considered valid by my Dragoman, and\\nwas rejected accordingly my donkey-boys afterwards\\nsaid they had overheard this fellow propose to the\\nSheik to put me to death whilst I was in the interior\\nof the great Pyramid, and to share with him the booty\\nfancy a struggle for life in one of those burial chambers,\\nwith acres, and acres of solid masonry between one-\\nself, and the daylight I felt exceedingly glad that I\\nhad not made the rascal a present.\\nI visited the very ancient Pyramids of Aboucir, and\\nSakkara there are many of these, and of various\\nshapes, and sizes, and it struck me that taken together\\nthey might be considered as shewing the progress and\\nperfection (such as it is,) of Pyramidical Architecture.\\nOne of the Pyramids at Sakkara is almost a rival for\\nthe full grown monster of Ghizeh others are scarcely\\nmore than vast heaps of brick and stone these last\\n1 Herodotus, in an after age, stood by with his note book, and\\ngot, as he thought, the exact returns of all the rations served out.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "THE PYRAMIDS\\n20I\\nsuggested to me the idea that after all the Pyramid is\\nnothing more nor less than a variety of the sepulchral\\nmound so common in most countries (including I believe\\nHindostan, from whence the Egyptians are supposed\\nto have come). Men accustomed to raise these struc-\\ntures for their dead Kings, or conquerors, would carry\\nthe usage with them in their migrations, but arriving\\nin Egypt, and seeing the impossibility of finding earth\\nsufficiently tenacious for a mound, they would approxi-\\nmate as nearly as might be to their ancient custom by\\nraising up a round heap of these stones, in short,\\nconical pyramids of these there are several at Sakkara,\\nand the materials of some are thrown together without\\nany order, or regularity. The transition from this\\nsimple form to that of the square angular pyramid,\\nwas easy and natural, and it seemed to me that the\\ngradations through which the style passed from infancy\\nup to its mature enormity, could plainly be traced at\\nSakkara.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XX\\nTHE SPHYNX\\nAND near the Pyramids, more wondrous, and more\\nawful than all else in the land of Egypt, there sits\\nthe lonely Sphynx. Comely the creature is, but the\\ncomeliness is not of this world the once worshipped\\nbeast is a deformity, and a monster to this generation,\\nand yet you can see that those lips, so thick and heavy,\\nwere fashioned according to some ancient mould of\\nbeauty some mould of beauty now forgotten for-\\ngotten because that Greece drew forth Cytherea from\\nthe flashing foam of the ^Egean, and in her image\\ncreated new forms of beauty, and made it a law among\\nmen that the short, and proudly wreathed lip should\\nstand for the sign and the main condition of loveliness,\\nthrough all generations to come. Yet still there lives\\non the race of those who were beautiful in the fashion\\nof the elder world, and Christian girls of Coptic blood\\nwill look on you with the sad, serious gaze, and kiss\\nyou your charitable hand with the big, pouting lips of\\nthe very Sphynx.\\nLaugh, and mock if you will at the worship of stone\\nidols, but mark ye this, ye breakers of images, that in\\none regard, the stone idol bears awful semblance of\\nDeity unchangefulness in the midst of change the\\nsame seeming will, and intent for ever, and ever in-\\nexorable Upon ancient dynasties of Ethiopian and\\nEgyptian Kings upon Greek, and Roman, upon Arab,\\nand Ottoman conquerors\u00e2\u0080\u0094 upon Napoleon dreaming\\nof an Eastern Empire upon battle and Pestilence", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "THE SPHYNX\\n203\\nupon the ceaseless misery of the Egyptian race upon\\nkeen-eyed travellers Herodotus yesterday, and War-\\nburton 1 to-day upon all, and more this unworldly\\nSphynx has watched, and watched like a Providence\\nwith the same earnest eyes, and the same sad, tranquil\\nmien. And we, we shall die, and Islam will wither\\naway, and the Englishman leaning far over to hold his\\nloved India, will plant a firm foot on the banks of the\\nNile, and sit in the seats of the Faithful, and still that\\nsleepless rock will lie watching, and watching the\\nworks of the new, busy race, with those same sad,\\nearnest eyes, and the same tranquil mien everlasting.\\nYou dare not mock at the Sphynx.\\n1 Eliot Warburton, who is known to be the author of those\\nbrilliantly sparkling papers, the Episodes of Eastern Travel,\\nwhich lit up our last November. His book The Crescent and\\nthe Cross, must, and will be capital.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXI\\nCAIRO TO SUEZ\\nTHE Dromedary, of Egypt, and Syria is not the\\ntwo-humped animal described by that name in\\nbooks of natural history, but is in fact of the same\\nfamily as the camel, to which it stands in about the\\nsame relation as a racer to a cart-horse. The fleetness,\\nand endurance of this creature are extraordinary. It\\nis not usual to force him into a gallop, and I fancy\\nfrom his make that it would be quite impossible for\\nhim to maintain that pace for any length of time, but\\nthe animal is on so large a scale, that the jog-trot at\\nwhich he is generally ridden implies a progress of per-\\nhaps ten or twelve miles an hour, and this pace, it is\\nsaid, he can keep up incessantly without food, or water,\\nor rest for three whole days, and nights.\\nOf the two dromedaries which I had obtained for\\nthis journey, I mounted one myself, and put Dthemetri\\non the other. My plan was, to ride on with Dthemetri\\nto Suez as rapidly as the fleetness of the beasts would\\nallow, and to let Mysseri, (who was still weak from the\\neffects of his late illness) come quietly on with the\\ncamels, and baggage.\\nThe trot of the Dromedary is a pace terribly dis-\\nagreeable to the rider, until he becomes a little\\naccustomed to it but after the first half hour I so far\\nschooled myself to this new exercise, that I felt capable\\nof keeping it up (though not without aching limbs) for\\nseveral hours together. Now, therefore, I was anxious\\nto dart forward, and annihilate at once the whole space", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "CAIRO TO SUEZ\\n205\\nthat divided me from the Red Sea. Dthemetri, how-\\never, could not get on at all every attempt which he\\nmade to trot seemed to threaten the utter dislocation\\nof his whole frame, and indeed I doubt whether any\\none of Dthemetri s age (nearly forty I think,) and un-\\naccustomed to such exercise could have borne it at all\\neasily besides, the dromedary which fell to his lot was\\nevidently a very bad one he every now and then\\ncame to a dead stop, and coolly knelt down as though\\nsuggesting that the rider had better get off at once,\\nand abandon the attempt as one that was utterly hope-\\nless.\\nWhen for the third, or fourth time I saw Dthemetri\\nthus planted, I lost my patience, and went on without\\nhim. For about two hours, I think, I advanced with-\\nout once looking behind me. I then paused, and cast\\nmy eyes back to the western horizon. There was no\\nsign of Dthemetri, nor of any other living creature.\\nThis I expected, for I knew that I must have far\\nout-distanced all my followers. I had ridden away\\nfrom my party merely by way of gratifying my im-\\npatience, and with the intention of stopping as soon as\\nI felt tired, until I was overtaken. I now observed,\\nhowever, (which I had not been able to do whilst ad-\\nvancing so rapidly) that the track which I had been\\nfollowing was seemingly the track of only one, or two\\ncamels. I did not fear that I had diverged very largely\\nfrom the true route, but still I could not feel any\\nreasonable certainty, that my party would follow any\\nline of march within sight of me.\\nI had to consider, therefore, whether I should remain\\nwhere I was, upon the chance of seeing my people\\ncome up, or whether I would push on alone, and find\\nmy way to Suez. I had now learned that I could not\\nrely upon the continued guidance of any track, but I\\nknew that (if maps were right) the point for which I\\nwas bound bore just due East of Cairo, and I thought\\nthat although I might miss the line leading most\\ndirectly to Suez, I could not well fail to find my way", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "206\\nEOTHEN\\nsooner or later to the Red Sea. The worst of it was\\nthat I had no provision of food or water with me, and\\nalready I was beginning to feel thirst. I deliberated\\nfor a minute, and then determined that I would\\nabandon all hope of seeing my party again in the\\ndesert, and would push forward as rapidly as possible\\ntowards Suez.\\nIt was not, I confess, without a sensation of awe that\\nI swept with my sight the vacant round of the horizon,\\nand remembered that I was all alone, and unprovi-\\nsioned in the midst of the arid waste, but this very awe\\ngave tone, and zest to the exultation with which I felt\\nmyself launched. Hitherto, in all my wanderings I\\nhad been under the care of other people sailors,\\nTatars, guides, and Dragomen had watched over my\\nwelfare, but now at last, I was here in this African\\ndesert, and I myself, and no other had chai ge of my\\nlife j I liked the office well I had the greatest part of\\nthe day before me, a very fair dromedary, a fur pelisse,\\nand a brace of pistols, but no bread, and no water; for\\nthat I must ride, and ride I did.\\nFor several hours I urged forward my beast at a\\nrapid, though steady pace, but now the pangs of thirst\\nbegan to torment me. I did not relax my pace how-\\never, and I had not suffered long, when a moving\\nobject appeared in the distance before me. The in-\\ntervening space was soon traversed, and I found my-\\nself approaching a Bedouin Arab mounted on a camel,\\nattended by another Bedouin on foot. They stopped.\\nI saw that, as usual, there hung from the pack-saddle\\nof the camel, a large skin water-flask, which seemed\\nto be well filled I steered my dromedary close up\\nalongside of the mounted Bedouin, caused my beast\\nto kneel down, then alighted, and keeping the end of\\nthe halter in my hand, went up to the mounted Bedouin\\nwithout speaking, took hold of his water-flask, opened\\nit, and drank long, and deep from its leathern lips.\\nBoth of the Bedouins stood fast in amazement, and\\nmute horror and really if they had never happened", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "CAIRO TO SUEZ\\n207\\nto see an European before, the apparition was enough\\nto startle them. To see for the first time a coat, and\\na waistcoat with the pale semblance of a human head\\nat the top, and for this ghastly figure to come swiftly\\nout of the horizon, upon a fleet dromedary approach\\nthem silently, and with a demoniacal smile, and drink\\na deep draught from their water-flask this was enough\\nto make the Bedouins stare a little they, in fact,\\nstared a great deal not as Europeans stare with a\\nrestless, and puzzled expression of countenance, but\\nwith features all fixed, and rigid, and with still, glassy\\neyes before they had time to get decomposed from\\ntheir state of petrifaction, I had remounted my drome-\\ndary, and was starting away towards the East.\\nWithout pause, or remission of pace, I continued to\\npress forward, but after a while, I found, to my con-\\nfusion, that the slight track, which had hitherto guided\\nme, now failed altogether I began to fear that I must\\nhave been all along following the course of some\\nwandering Bedouins, and I felt that if this were the case,\\nmy fate was a little uncertain. To comfort myself, I\\nbegan to nurse up a theory that death by thirst was not\\nso terrible as inexperienced people were apt to imagine.\\n(Say what you will, there is comfort in theories some\\nof the repudiating Americans of the United States\\nentertain a theory that they are distinguishable from\\ncommon swindlers, and the national pride of the\\nyoung Republic is wholly supported by the indul-\\ngence of this singular fancy.)\\nI had no compass with me, but I determined upon\\nthe eastern point of the horizon as accurately as I could,\\nby reference to the sun, and so laid down for myself a\\nway over the pathless sands.\\nBut now my poor dromedary, by whose life and\\nstrength I held my own, she began to shew signs of\\ndistress; a thick, clammy, and glutinous kind of foam\\ngathered about her lips, and piteous sobs burst from\\nher bosom in the tones of human misery; I doubted,\\nfor a moment, whether I would give her a little rest,", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "208\\nEOTHEN\\nor relaxation of pace, but I decided that I would\\nnot, and continued to push forward as steadily as\\nbefore.\\nThe character of the country became changed I\\nhad ridden away from the level tracts, and before me\\nnow, and on either side, there were vast hills of sand,\\nand calcined rocks that interrupted my progress, and\\nbaffled my doubtful road, but I did my best with\\nrapid steps I swept round the base of the hills, threaded\\nthe winding hollows, and at last, as I rose in my swift\\ncourse to the crest of a lofty ridge, Thalatta Thalatta\\nby Jove I saw the Sea\\nMy tongue can tell where to find the clue to many an\\nold pagan creed, because that (distinctly from all mere\\nadmiration of the beauty belonging to Nature s works,)\\nI acknowledge a sense of mystical reverence, when\\nfirst I look, to see some illustrious feature of the globe\\nsome coast-line of Ocean some mighty river, or\\ndreary mountain range, the ancient barrier of king-\\ndoms. But the Red Sea It might well claim my\\nearnest gaze by force of the great Jewish migration\\nwhich connects it with the history of our own Religion.\\nFrom this very ridge, it is likely enough, the panting\\nIsraelites first saw that shining inlet of the sea. Ay\\nay but moreover, and best of all, that beckoning Sea\\nassured my eyes, and proved how well I had marked\\nout the East for my path, and gave me good promise\\nthat sooner, or later the time would come for me to\\nrest, and drink. It was distant, the Sea, but I felt my j\\nown strength, and I had heard of the strength of dro-\\nmedaries. I pushed forward as eagerly as though I j\\nhad spoiled the Egyptians, and were flying from Pha- j\\nraoh s police.\\nI had not yet been able to discover any symptoms of j\\nSuez, but after a while I descried in the distance a!\\nlarge, blank, isolated building I made towards this,\\nand in time got down to it. The building was a fort, j\\nand had been built there for the protection of a well,\\nwhich it contained within its precincts. A cluster of!", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "CAIRO TO SUEZ\\n209\\nsmall huts adhered to the fort, and in a short time I\\nwas receiving the hospitality of the inhabitants who\\nwere grouped upon the sands near their hamlet. To\\nquench the fires of my throat with about a gallon of\\nmuddy water, and to swallow a little of the food placed\\nbefore me, was the work of few minutes, and before\\nthe astonishment of my hosts had even begun to sub-\\nside, I was pursuing my onward journey. Suez, I\\nfound was still three hours distant, and the Sun going\\ndown in the West warned me that I must find some\\nother guide to keep me in the right direction. This\\nguide I found in the most fickle and uncertain of the\\nelements. For some hours the wind had been freshen-\\ning, and it now blew a violent gale it blew not fitfully,\\nand in squalls, but with such remarkable steadiness\\nthat I felt convinced it would come from the same\\nquarter, for several hours. When the Sun set, there-\\nfore, I carefully looked for the point from which the\\nwind was blowing, and found that it came from the\\nvery West, and was blowing exactly in the direction\\nof my route. I had nothing to do therefore but to go\\nstraight to leeward, and this was not difficult, for the\\ngale blew with such immense force that if I diverged\\nat all from its line I instantly felt the pressure of the\\nblast on the side towards which I was deviating. Very\\nsoon after sun-set there came on complete darkness,\\nbut the strong wind guided me well, and sped me too\\non my way.\\nI had pushed on for about, I think, a couple of hours\\nafter night-fall, when I saw the glimmer of a light in\\nthe distance, and this I ventured to hope must be\\nSuez. Upon approaching it, however, I found that it\\nwas only a solitary fort, and I passed on without\\nstopping.\\nOn I went, still riding down the wind, when an un-\\nlucky accident occurred, for which, if you like, you can\\nhave your laugh against me. I have told you already\\nwhat sort of lodging it is which you have upon the\\nback of a camel. You ride the dromedary in the\\np", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "2IO\\nEOTHEN\\nsame fashion you are perched rather than seated\\nupon a bunch of carpets, or quilts upon the summit of\\nthe hump. It happened that my dromedary veered\\nrather suddenly from her onward course meeting the\\nmovement, I mechanically turned my left wrist as\\nthough I were holding a bridle rein, for the complete\\ndarkness prevented my eyes from reminding me that\\nI had nothing but a halter in my hand the expected\\nresistance failed, for the halter was hanging upon that\\nside of the dromedary s neck towards which I was\\nslightly leaning I toppled over, head foremost, and\\nthen went falling, and falling through air till my crown\\ncame whang against the ground. And the ground too\\nwas perfectly hard, (compacted sand) but the thickly\\nwadded head-gear which I wore for protection against\\nthe sun saved my life. The notion of my being able\\nto get up again after falling head-foremost from such\\nan immense height seemed to me at first too para-\\ndoxical to be acted upon, but I soon found that I was\\nnot a bit hurt. My dromedary utterly vanished I\\nlooked round me, and saw the glimmer of a light in\\nthe fort which I had lately passed, and I began to\\nwork my way back in that direction. The violence of\\nthe gale made it hard for me to force my way towards\\nthe West, but I succeeded at last in regaining the fort.\\nTo this, as to the other fort which I had passed, there\\nwas attached a cluster of huts, and I soon found my-\\nself surrounded by a group of villanous, gloomy look-\\ning fellows. It was a horrid bore for me to have to\\nswagger, and look big at a time when I felt so par-\\nticularly small on account of my tumble, and my lost\\ndromedary, but there was no help for it; I had no\\nDthemetri now to strike terror for me. I knew\\nhardly one word of Arabic, but somehow, or other I\\ncontrived to announce it as my absolute will, and\\npleasure that these fellows should find me the means\\nof gaining Suez. They acceded, and having a donkey,\\nthey saddled it for me, and appointed one of their\\nnumber to attend me on foot.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "CAIRO TO SUEZ\\n211\\nI afterwards found that these fellows were not Arabs,\\nbut Algerine refugees, and that they bore the character\\nof being sad scoundrels. They justified this imputa-\\ntion to some extent on the following day. They allowed\\nMysseri with my baggage, and the camels to pass un-\\nmolested, but an Arab lad belonging to the party\\nhappened to lag a little way in the rear, and him (if\\nthey were not maligned) these rascals stripped, and\\nrobbed. Low indeed is the state of bandit morality,\\nwhen men will allow the sleek traveller with well laden\\ncamels to pass in quiet, reserving their spirit of enter-\\nprise for the tattered turban of a miserable boy.\\nI reached Suez at last. The British Agent, though\\nroused from his midnight sleep, received me in his\\nhome with the utmost kindness and hospitality. Oh\\nby Jove, how delightful it was to lie on fair sheets, and\\nto dally with sleep, and to wake, and to sleep, and to\\nwake once more, for the sake of sleeping again", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXII\\nSUEZ\\nI WAS hospitably entertained by the British Consul\\nor Agent, as he is there styled he is the employe\\nof the East India Company^ and not of the Home\\nGovernment. Napoleon during his stay of five days\\nat Suez, had been the guest of the Consul s father, and\\nI was told that the divan in my apartment had been\\nthe bed of the great Commander.\\nThere are two opinions as to the point at which the\\nIsraelites passed the Red Sea one is that they tra-\\nversed only the very small creek at the Northern\\nextremity of the inlet, and that they entered the bed of\\nthe water at the spot on which Suez now stands, the\\nother that they crossed the sea from a point eighteen\\nmiles down the coast. The Oxford theologians who\\nwith Milman their Professor, 1 believe that Jehovah\\nconducted his chosen people without disturbing the\\norder of Nature, adopt the first view, and suppose that\\nthe Israelites passed during an ebb tide aided by a\\nviolent wind. One among many objections to this\\nsupposition is, that the time of a single ebb would not\\nhave been sufficient for the passage of that vast multi-\\ntude of men and beasts, or even for a small fraction of\\nit. Moreover the creek to the north of this point can\\nbe compassed in an hour, and in two hours you can\\nmake the circuit of the salt marsh over which the sea\\nmay have extended in former times if therefore the\\n1 See Milman s History of the Jews. ist Edit. Family\\nLibrary.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "SUEZ\\n213\\nIsraelites crossed so high up as Suez, the Egyptians,\\nunless infatuated by divine interference, might easily\\nhave recovered their stolen goods from the encumbered\\nfugitives, by making a slight detour. The opinion\\nwhich fixes the point of passage at eighteen miles\\ndistance, and from thence right across the Ocean depths\\nto the Eastern side of the sea, is supported by the\\nunanimous tradition of the people, whether Christians,\\nor Mussulmans, and is consistent with Holy writ\\nthe waters were a wall unto them on their right hand,\\nand on their left The Cambridge Mathematicians\\nseem to think that the Israelites were enabled to pass\\nover dry land by adopting a route not usually subject\\nto the influx of the Sea this notion is plausible in a\\nmerely hydrostatical point of view, and is supposed to\\nhave been adopted by most of the fellows of Trinity,\\nbut certainly not by Thorp, who is one of the most\\namiable of their number it is difficult to reconcile this\\ntheory with the account given in Exodus, unless we\\ncan suppose that the words sea, and waters are\\nthere used in a sense implying dry land.\\nNapoleon, when at Suez, made an attempt to follow\\nthe supposed steps of Moses by passing the creek at\\nthis point, but it seems, according to the testimony of\\nthe people at Suez, that he, and his horsemen managed\\nthe matter in a way more resembling the failure of the\\nEgyptians, than the success of the Israelites. Accord-\\ning to the French account, Napoleon got out of the\\ndifficulty by that warrior-like presence of mind which\\nserved him so well when the fate of nations depended\\non the decision of a moment he ordered his horsemen\\nto disperse in all directions, in order to multiply the\\nchances of finding shallow water, and was thus enabled\\nto discover a line by which he and his people were\\nextricated. The story told by the people of Suez is\\nvery different they declare that Napoleon parted\\nfrom his horse, got thoroughly submerged, and was\\nonly fished out by the assistance of the people on\\nshore.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "214\\nEOTHEN\\nI bathed twice at the point assigned to the passage\\nof the Israelites, and the second time that I did so, I\\nchose the time of low water, and tried to walk across,\\nbut I soon found myself out of my depth, or at least in\\nwater so deep that I could only advance by swimming.\\nThe dromedary which had bolted in the Desert, was\\nbrought into Suez the day after my arrival, but my\\npelisse and my pistols, which had been attached to the\\nsaddle, had disappeared; these articles were treasures\\nof great importance to me at that time, and I moved\\nthe Governor of the town to make all possible exertions\\nfor their recovery he acceded to my wishes as well\\nas he could, and very obligingly imprisoned the first\\nseven poor fellows he could lay his hands on.\\nAt first the Governor acted in the matter from no\\nother motive than that of courtesy to an English\\ntraveller, but afterwards, and when he saw the value\\nwhich I set upon the lost property, he pushed his\\nmeasures with a degree of alacrity, and heat, which\\nseemed to shew that he felt a personal interest in the\\nmatter it was supposed either that he expected a large\\npresent in the event of succeeding, or that he was\\nstriving by all means to trace the property in order\\nthat he might lay his hands on it after my departure.\\nI went out sailing for some hours, and when I re-\\nturned I was horrified to find that two men had been\\nbastinadoed by order of the Governor, with a view to\\nforce them to a confession of their theft. It appeared,\\nhowever, that there really was good ground for sup-\\nposing them guilty, since one of the holsters was\\nactually found in their possession. It was said, too,\\n(but I could hardly believe it,) that whilst one of the\\nmen was undergoing the bastinado, his comrade was\\noverheard encouraging him to bear the torment with-\\nout peaching. Both men if they had the secret were\\nresolute in keeping it, and were sent back to their\\ndungeon. I, of course, took care that there should be\\nno repetition of the torture, at least so long as I re-\\nmained at Suez.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "SUEZ\\n215\\nThe Governor was a thorough Oriental, and until a\\ncomparatively recent period had shared in the old\\nMahometan feeling of contempt for Europeans. It\\nhappened, however, one day that an English gun-brig\\nhad appeared off Suez, and sent her boats ashore to\\ntake in fresh water. Now fresh water at Suez is a some-\\nwhat scarce, and precious commodity it is kept in tanks,\\nthe chief of which is at some distance from the place.\\nUnder these circumstances the request for fresh water\\nwas refused, or at all events was not complied with.\\nThe Captain of the brig was a simple minded man,\\nwith a strongish will, and he at once declared that if\\nhis casks were not filled in three hours, he would\\ndestroy the whole place. A great people indeed\\nsaid the Governor a wonderful people, the English\\nHe instantly caused every cask to be filled to the brim\\nfrom his own tank, and ever afterwards entertained for\\nthe English a degree of affection, and respect for which\\nI felt infinitely indebted to the gallant Captain.\\nThe day after the abortive attempt to extract a con-\\nfession from the prisoners, the Governor, the Consul,\\nand I sat in Council, I know not how long, with a view\\nof prosecuting the search for the stolen goods. The\\nsitting, considered in the light of a criminal investiga-\\ntion, was characteristic of the East. The proceedings\\nbegan as a matter of course by the Prosecutors\\nsmoking a pipe, and drinking coffee with the Governor\\nwho was Judge, Jury, and Sheriff. I got on very well\\nwith him, (this was not my first interview,) and he\\ngave me the pipe from his lips in testimony of his\\nfriendship. I recollect, however, that my prime adviser,\\nthinking me I suppose a great deal too shy, and retiring\\nin my manner, entreated me to put up my boofs, and\\nto soil the Governor s divan, in order to inspire respect,\\nand strike terror. I thought it would be as well for me\\nto retain the right of respecting myself, and that it was\\nnot quite necessary for a well received guest to strike\\nany terror at all.\\nOur deliberations were assisted by the numerous", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "2l6\\nEOTHEN\\nattendants who lined the three sides of the room not\\noccupied by the divan. Any one of these who took it\\ninto his head to offer a suggestion, would stand forward,\\nand humble himself before the Governor, and then\\nstate his views which were always more or less at-\\ntended to.\\nAfter a great deal of fruitless planning, the Governor\\ndirected that the prisoners should be brought in. I\\nwas shocked when they entered, for I was not prepared\\nto see them come carried into the room upon the\\nshoulders of others. It had not occurred to me that\\ntheir battered feet would be too sore to bear the contact\\nof the floor. They persisted in asserting their innocence.\\nThe Governor wanted to recur to the torture, but that\\nI prevented, and the men were carried back to their\\ndungeon.\\nA scheme was now suggested by one of the attendants\\nwhich seemed to me childishly absurd, but it was\\nnevertheless tried. The plan was to send a man to\\nthe prisoners who was to make them believe that he\\nhad obtained entrance into their dungeon upon some\\nother pretence, but that he had in reality come to treat\\nwith them for the purchase of the stolen goods. This\\nshallow expedient of course failed.\\nThe Governor himself had not nominally the power\\nof life and death over the people in his district, but he\\ncould if he chose send them to Cairo, and have them\\nhanged there. I proposed therefore that the prisoners\\nshould be threatened with this fate. The answer of the\\nGovernor made me feel rather ashamed of my effemi-\\nnate suggestion he said that if I wished it he would\\nwillingly threaten them with death, but he also said\\nthat if he threatened, he should execute the threat.\\nThinking at last that nothing was to be gained by\\nkeeping the prisoners any longer in confinement, I\\nrequested that they might be set free. To this the\\nGovernor acceded, though only, as he said, out of\\nfavour to me, for he had a strong impression that the\\nmen were guilty. I went down to see the prisoners", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "SUEZ\\n217\\nlet out with my own eyes. They were very grateful,\\nand fell down to the earth, kissing my boots. I gave\\nthem a present to console them for their wounds, and\\nthey seemed to be highly delighted.\\nAlthough the matter terminated in a manner so\\nsatisfactory to the principal sufferers, there were\\nsymptoms of some angry excitement in the place it\\nwas said that public opinion was much shocked at the\\nfact that Mahometans had been beaten on account of\\na loss sustained by a Christian. My journey was to\\nrecommence the next day, and it was hinted that if I\\npersevered in my intention of proceeding, the people\\nwould have an easy and profitable opportunity of wreak-\\ning their vengeance on me. If ever they formed any\\nscheme of the kind, they at all events refrained from\\nany attempt to carry it into effect.\\nOne of the evenings during my stay at Suez was\\nenlivened by a triple wedding. There was a long, and\\nslow procession. Some carried torches, and others\\nwere thumping drums, and firing pistols. The bride-\\ngrooms came last, all walking abreast my only reason\\nfor mentioning the ceremony (which was otherwise un-\\ninteresting) is that I scarcely ever in all my life saw\\nany phenomena so ridiculous, as the meekness, and\\ngravity of those three young men, whilst being led to\\nthe altar.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIII\\nSUEZ TO GAZA\\nTHE route over the Desert from Suez to Gaza is\\nnot frequented by merchants, and is seldom passed\\nby a traveller. This part of the country is less uni-\\nformly barren than the tracts of shifting sand which\\nlie on the El Arish route. The shrubs on which the\\ncamel feeds are more frequent, and there are many\\nspots on which the sand is mingled with so much of\\nproductive soil as to admit the growth of corn. The\\nBedouins are driven out of this district during the\\nsummer by the total want of water, but before the time\\nfor their forced departure arrives, they succeed in rais-\\ning little crops of barley from these comparatively\\nfertile patches of ground they bury the fruit of their\\nlabours, leaving marks by which, upon their return,\\nthey may be able to recognize the spot. The warm\\ndry sand stands them for a safe granary. The country,\\nat the time I passed it, (in the month of April) was\\npretty thickly sprinkled with Bedouins expecting their\\nharvest several times my tent was pitched alongside\\nof their encampments I have told you already what\\nthe impressions were which these people produced\\nupon my mind.\\nI saw several creatures of the antelope kind in this\\npart of the Desert, and one day, my Arabs surprised\\nin her sleep, a young gazelle, (for so I called her), and\\ntook the darling prisoner. I carried her before me on\\nmy camel for the rest of the day, and kept her in my\\ntent all night I did all I could to coax her, but the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "SUEZ TO GAZA\\n219\\ntrembling beauty refused to touch food, and would not\\nbe comforted whenever she had a seeming opportunity\\nof escaping, she struggled with a violence so painfully\\ndisproportioned to her fine, delicate limbs, that I could\\nnot continue the cruel attempt to make her my own.\\nIn the morning, therefore, I set her free, anticipating\\nsome pleasure from seeing the joyous bound with\\nwhich, as I thought, she would return to her native\\nfreedom. She had been so stupified, however, by the\\nexciting events of the preceding day, and night, and\\nwas so puzzled as to the road she should take, that she\\nwent off very deliberately, and with an uncertain step.\\nShe went away quite sound in limb, but her intellect,\\nmay have been upset. Never, in all likelihood, had\\nshe seen the form of a human being, until the dreadful\\nmoment when she woke from her sleep, and found her-\\nself in the gripe of an Arab. Then her pitching and\\ntossing journey on, the back of a camel, and lastly, a\\nsoiree with me by candlelight I should have been\\nglad to know, if I could, that her heart was not utterly\\nbroken.\\nMy Arabs were somewhat excited one day by dis-\\ncovering the fresh print of a foot\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the foot, as they\\nsaid, of a lion. I had no conception that the Lord of\\nthe forest (better known as a crest) ever stalked away\\nfrom his jungles to make inglorious war in these\\nsmooth plains against antelopes, and gazelles. I sup-\\nposed that there must have been some error of inter-\\npretation, and that the Arabs meant to speak of a tiger.\\nIt appeared, however, that this was not the case\\neither the Arabs were mistaken, or the noble brute un-\\ncooped, and unchained, had but lately crossed my path.\\nThe camels, with which I traversed this part of the\\nDesert, were very different in their ways and habits\\nfrom those which you get on a frequented route. They\\nwere never led. There was not the slightest sign of a\\ntrack in this part of the Desert, but the camels never\\nfailed to choose the right line. By the direction taken\\nat starting, they knew, I suppose, the point (some en-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "220\\nEOTHEN\\ncampment) for which they were to make. There is\\nalways a leading camel, (generally, I believe, the eldest)\\nwho marches foremost, and determines the path for the\\nwhole party. If it happens that no one of the camels\\nhas been accustomed to lead the others, there is very\\ngreat difficulty in making a start if you force your\\nbeast forward for a moment, he will contrive to wheel,\\nand draw back, at the same time looking at one of the\\nother camels with an expression, and gesture, exactly\\nequivalent to apres vous. The responsibility of\\nfinding the way is evidently assumed very unwillingly.\\nAfter some time, however, it becomes understood that\\none of the beasts has reluctantly consented to take the\\nlead, and he accordingly advances for that purpose.\\nFor a minute, or two he goes on with much indecision,\\ntaking first one line, and then another, but soon, by the\\naid of some mysterious sense, he discovers the true\\ndirection, and follows it steadily from morning to night.\\nWhen once the leadership is established, you cannot\\nby any persuasion, and can scarcely by any force in-\\nduce a junior camel to walk one single step in advance\\nof the chosen guide. I\\nOn the fifth day I came to an Oasis, called the\\nWady el Arish, a ravine, or rather a gully, through\\nwhich, during a part of the year, there runs a stream\\nof water. On the sides of the gully there were a num-\\nber of those graceful trees which the Arabs call Tarfa.\\nThe channel of the stream was quite dry in the part at\\nwhich we arrived, but at about half a mile off some\\nwater was found, which, though very muddy, was\\ntolerably sweet. This was a happy discovery, for the\\nwater which we had brought from the neighbourhood\\nof Suez was rapidly putrifying.\\nThe want of foresight is an anomalous part of the\\nBedouin s character, for it does not result either from\\nrecklessness, or stupidity. I know of no human being\\nwhose body is so thoroughly the slave of mind as that\\nof the Arab. His mental anxieties seem to be for ever\\ntorturing every nerve, and fibre of his body, and yet", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "SUEZ TO GAZA\\n221\\nwith all this exquisite sensitiveness to the suggestions\\nof the mind, he is grossly improvident. I recollect,\\nfor instance, that when setting out upon this passage\\nof the Desert, my Arabs, in order to lighten the burthen\\nof their camels, were most anxious that we should take\\nwith us only two days supply of water. They said that\\nby the time that supply was exhausted, we should\\narrive at a spring which would furnish us for the rest\\nof the journey. My servants very wisely, and with\\nmuch pertinacity, resisted the adoption of this plan,\\nand took care to have both the large skins well filled.\\nWe proceeded, and found no water at all, either at the\\nexpected spring, or for many days afterwards, so that\\nnothing but the precaution of my own people saved us\\nfrom the very severe suffering which we should have\\nendured, if we had entered upon the Desert with only\\na two days supply. The Arabs themselves being on\\nfoot would have suffered much more than I, from the\\nconsequences of their improvidence.\\nThis unaccountable want of foresight prevents the\\nBedouin from appreciating at a distance of eight or ten\\ndays the amount of the misery which he entails upon\\nhimself at the end of that period. The Bedouin s\\ndread of a city is one of the most painful mental affec-\\ntions that I have ever observed, and yet when the\\nwhole breadth of the Desert lies between him, and the\\ntown to which you are going, he will freely enter into\\nan agreement to land you in the city for which you are\\nbound. When, however, after many a day of toil, the\\ndistant minarets at length appear, the poor Bedouin\\nrelaxes the vigour of his pace his step becomes falter-\\ning, and undecided every moment his uneasiness\\nincreases, and at length he fairly sobs aloud, and em-\\nbracing your knees, implores, with the most piteous\\ncries, and gestures, that you will dispense with him,\\nand his camels, and find some other means of entering\\nthe city. This, of course, one can t agree to, and the\\nconsequence is, that one is obliged to witness, and\\nresist the most moving expressions of grief, and fond", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "222\\nEOTHEN\\nentreaty. I had to go through a most painful scene of\\nthis kind when I entered Cairo, and now the horror\\nwhich these wilder Arabs felt at the notion of entering\\nGaza led to consequences still more distressing. The\\ndread of cities results partly from a kind of wild instinct\\nwhich has always characterized the descendants of\\nIshmael, but partly, too, from a well founded apprehen-\\nsion of ill treatment. So often it happens, that the\\npoor Bedouin, when once jammed in between walls, is\\nseized by the Government authorities for the sake of\\nhis camels, that his innate horror of cities becomes\\nreally well justified by results.\\nThe Bedouins with whom I performed this journey\\nwere wild fellows of the Desert, quite unaccustomed to\\nlet out themselves, or their beasts for hire, and when\\nthey found that by the natural ascendancy of Euro-\\npeans they were gradually brought down to a state of\\nsubserviency to me, or rather to my attendants, they\\nbitterly repented, I believe, of having placed themselves\\nunder our controul. They were rather difficult fellows\\nto manage, and gave Dthemetri a good deal of trouble,\\nbut I liked them all the better for that.\\nSelim, the chief of the party, and the man to whom\\nall our camels belonged, was a fine, wild, stately fellow\\nthere were, I think, five other Arabs of the party, but\\nwhen we approached the end of the journey, they one\\nby one, began to make off towards the neighbouring\\nencampments, and by the time that the minarets of\\nGaza were in sight, Selim, the owner of the camels,\\nwas the only one who remained he, poor fellow, as we\\nneared the Town, began to discover the same terrors\\nthat my Arabs had shewn when I entered Cairo. I\\ncould not possibly accede to his entreaties, and consent\\nto let my baggage be laid down on the bare sands,\\nwithout any means of having it brought on into the\\ncity. So at length when poor Selim had exhausted all\\nhis rhetoric of voice, and action, and tears, he fixed his\\ndespairing eyes for a minute upon the cherished beasts\\nthat were his only wealth, and then wildly, and sud-", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "SUEZ TO GAZA\\n223\\ndenly dashed away into the farther Desert. I con-\\ntinued my course, and reached the city at last, but it\\nwas not without immense difficulty that we could con-\\nstrain the poor camels to pass under the hated shadow\\nof its walls. They were the genuine beasts of the\\nDesert, and it was sad, and painful to witness the\\nagony which they suffered when thus they were forced\\nto encounter the fixed habitations of men they shrank\\nfrom the beginning of every high, narrow street as\\nthough from the entrance of some horrible cave, or\\nbottomless pit they sighed, and wept like women.\\nWhen at last we got them within the court yard of the\\nKhan, they seemed to be quite broken-hearted, and\\nlooked round piteously for their loving master, but no\\nSelim came. I had imagined that he would enter the\\ntown secretly, by night, in order to cany off those five\\nfine camels, his only wealth in this world, and seem-\\ningly the main objects of his affection. But no his\\ndread of civilization was too strong during the whole\\nof the three days that I remained at Gaza, he failed to\\nshew himself, and thus sacrificed in all probability,\\nnot only his camels, but the money which I had stipu-\\nlated to pay him for the passage of the Desert. In\\norder, however, to do all I could towards saving him\\nfrom this last misfortune, I resorted to a contrivance\\nwhich is frequently adopted by the Asiatics. I assem-\\nbled a group of grave, and worthy Mussulmans in the\\ncourt yard of the Khan, and in their presence paid over\\nthe gold to a Sheik who was accustomed to communi-\\ncate with the Arabs of the Desert All present solemnly\\npromised, that if ever Selim should come to claim his\\nrights, they would bear true witness in his favour.\\nI saw a great deal of my old friend the Governor of\\nGaza. He had received orders to send back all persons\\ncoming from Egypt, and force them to perform quaran-\\ntine at El Arish he knew so little of quarantine\\nregulations, however, that his dress was actually in\\ncontact with mine, whilst he insisted upon the stringency\\nof the orders which he had received. He was induced", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "224\\nEOTHEN\\nto make an exception in my favour, and I rewarded\\nhim with a musical snuff-box which I had bought at\\nSmyrna, for the purpose of presenting it to any man in\\nauthority who might happen to do me an important\\nservice. The Governor was immensely delighted with\\nthis toy, and took it off to his harem with great exulta-\\ntion he soon, however, returned with an altered\\ncountenance his wives, he said, had got hold of the\\nbox, and put it out of order. So short-lived is human\\nhappiness in this frail world\\nThe Governor fancied that he should incur less risk,\\nif I remained at Gaza for two, or three days more, and\\nhe wanted me to become his guest I persuaded him,\\nhowever, that it would be better for him to let me de-\\npart at once he wanted to add to my baggage a roast\\nlamb, and a quantity of other cumbrous viands, but I\\nescaped with half a horse load of leaven bread, which\\nwas very good of its kind, and proved a most useful\\npresent. The air with which the Governor s slaves\\naffected to be almost breaking down under the weight\\nof the gifts which they bore on their shoulders, re-\\nminded me of the figures one sees in some of the old\\npictures.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIV\\nGAZA TO NABLOUS\\nPASSING now once again through Palestine and\\nSyria, I retained the tent which I had used in the\\nDesert, and found that it added very much to my\\ncomfort in travelling. Instead of turning out a family\\nfrom some wretched dwelling, and depriving them of a\\nrepose which I was sure not to find for myself, I now,\\nwhen evening came, pitched my tent upon some smiling\\nspot within a few hundred yards of the village to which\\nI looked for my supplies that is, for milk, and bread,\\nif I had it not with me, and sometimes also for eggs.\\nThe worst of it is that the needful viands are not to be\\nobtained by coin, but only by intimidation. I at first\\ntried the usual agent money Dthemetri, with one or\\ntwo of my Arabs, went into the village near which I\\nwas encamped, and tried to buy the required provisions,\\noffering liberal payment, but he came back empty-\\nhanded. I sent him again, but this time he held\\ndifferent language he required to see the elders of\\nthe place, and threatening dreadful vengeance, directed\\nthem upon their responsibility to take care that my\\ntent should be immediately, and abundantly supplied.\\nHe was obeyed at once, and the provisions which had\\nbeen refused to me as a purchaser soon arrived, trebled,\\nor quadrupled, when demanded by way of a forced con-\\ntribution. I quickly found (I think it required two\\nexperiments to convince me) that this peremptory\\nmethod was the only one which could be adopted with\\nsuccess it never failed. Of course, however, when\\nQ", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "226\\nEOTHEN\\nthe provisions have been actually obtained, you can, if\\nyou choose, give money exceeding the value of the\\nprovisions to somebody; an English a thoroughbred\\nEnglish traveller will always do this, (though it is\\ncontrary to the custom of the country) for the quiet\\n(false quiet though it be) of his own conscience, but so\\nto order the matter, that the poor fellows who have\\nbeen forced to contribute, should be the persons to\\nreceive the value of their supplies, is not possible for\\na traveller to attempt anything so grossly just as that,\\nwould be too outrageous. The truth is, that the usage\\nof the East in old times, required the people of the\\nvillage, at their own cost, to supply the wants of tra-\\nvellers, and the ancient custom is now adhered to, not\\nin favour of travellers generally, but in favour of those\\nwho are deemed sufficiently powerful to enforce its\\nobservance if the villagers, therefore, find a man\\nwaiving this right to oppress them, and offering coin\\nfor that which he is entitled to take without payment,\\nthey suppose at once that he is actuated by fear, (fear\\nof them) poor fellows and it is so delightful to them\\nto act upon this flattering assumption, that they will\\nforego the advantage of a good price for their provisions,\\nrather than the rare luxury of refusing for once in their\\nlives to part with their own property.\\nThe practice of intimidation, thus rendered necessary,\\nis utterly hateful to an Englishman he finds himself\\nforced to conquer his daily bread by the pompous\\nthreats of the Dragoman, his very subsistence, as well\\nas his dignity, and personal safety being made to\\ndepend upon his servant s assuming a tone of authority\\nwhich does not at all belong to him. Besides, he can\\nscarcely fail to see that as he passes through the country,\\nhe becomes the innocent cause of much extra injustice\\nmany supernumerary wrongs. This he feels to be\\nespecially the case when he travels with relays. To\\nbe the owner of a horse, or a mule within reach of an\\nAsiatic potentate, is to lead the life of the hare, and\\nthe rabbit hunted down, and ferreted out. Too often", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "GAZA TO NABLOUS 227\\nit happens that the works of the field are stopped in\\nthe day time, that the inmates of the cottage are roused\\nfrom their midnight sleep by the sudden coming of a\\nGovernment officer, and the poor husbandman driven\\nby threats, and rewarded by curses, if he would not\\nlose sight for ever of his captured beasts, must quit all,\\nand follow them this is done that the Englishman\\nmay travel he would make his way more harmlessly\\nif he could, but horses, or mules he must have, and\\nthese are his ways and means.\\nThe town of Nablous is beautiful it lies in a valley\\nhemmed in with olive groves, and its buildings are\\ninterspersed with frequent palm trees. It is said to\\noccupy the site of the ancient Sychem. I know not\\nwhether it was there, indeed, that the father of the\\nJews was accustomed to feed his flocks, but the valley\\nis green, and smiling, and is held at this day by a\\nrace more brave, and beautiful than Jacob s unhappy\\ndescendants.\\nNablous is the very furnace of Mahometan bigotry,\\nand I believe that only a few months before the time\\nof my going there, it would have been quite unsafe for\\na man, unless strongly guarded, to shew himself to the\\npeople of the town in a Frank costume but since their\\nlast insurrection, the Mahometans of the place had\\nbeen so far subdued by the severity of Ibrahim Pasha,\\nthat they dared not now offer the slightest insult to an\\nEuropean. It was quite plain, however, that the effort\\nwith which the men of the old school refrained from\\nexpressing their opinion of a hat, and a coat, was\\nhorribly painful to them as I walked through the\\nstreets, and bazaars, a dead silence prevailed every\\nman suspended his employment, and gazed on me with\\na fixed, glassy look which seemed to say, God is\\ngood, but how marvellous, and inscrutable are his\\nways that thus he permits this white-faced dog of a\\nChristian to hunt through the paths of the faithful.\\nThe insurrection of these people had been more\\nformidable than any other that Ibrahim Pasha had to", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "228\\nEOTHEN\\ncontend with he was only able to crush them at last\\nby the assistance of a fellow renowned for his resources\\nin the way of stratagem, and cunning as well as for his\\nknowledge of the country. This personage was no\\nother than Aboo Goosh, the father of lies 1 who\\nwas taken out of prison for the purpose. The father\\nof lies enabled Ibrahim to hem in the insurrection,\\nand extinguish it he was rewarded with the Governor-\\nship of Jerusalem, which he held when I was there I\\nrecollect, by the bye, that he tried one of his stratagems\\nupon me. I did not go to see him as I ought in courtesy\\nto have done, during my stay at Jerusalem, but I\\nhappened to be the owner of a rather handsome amber\\ntchibouque piece which the Governor heard of, and by\\nsome means contrived to see he sent to me, and\\ndressed up a statement that he would give me a price\\nimmensely exceeding the sum which I had given for\\nit. He did not add my tchibouque to the rest of his\\ntrophies.\\nThere was a small number of Greek Christians\\nresident in Nablous, and over these the Mussulmans\\nheld a high hand, not even permitting them to speak\\nto each other in the open streets but if the Moslems\\nthus set themselves above the poor Christians of the\\nplace, I, or rather my servants soon took the ascendant\\nover them. I recollect that just as we were starting\\nfrom the place, and at a time when a number of people\\nhad gathered together in the main street to see our\\npreparations, Mysseri, being provoked at some piece\\nof perverseness on the part of a true Believer, coolly\\nthrashed him with his horsewhip before the assembled\\ncrowd of fanatics. I was much annoyed at the time,\\nfor I thought that the people would probably rise\\nagainst us. They turned rather pale, but stood still.\\n1 This is an appellation, not implying blame, but merit the\\nlies which it purports to affiliate are feints, and cunning\\nstratagems rather than the baser kind of falsehoods. The ex-\\npression in short has nearly the same meaning as the English\\nword Yorkshireman.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "GAZA TO NABLOUS\\n229\\nThe day of my arriving at Nablous was a fete the\\nnew year s day of the Mussulmans. 1 Most of the people\\nwere amusing themselves in the beautiful lawns, and\\nshady groves without the city. The men (except my-\\nself) were all remotely apart from the other sex. The\\nwomen in groups were diverting themselves, and their\\nchildren with swings. They were so handsome, that\\nthey could not keep up their yashmaks I believe that\\nthey had never before looked upon a man in the\\nEuropean dress, and when they now saw in me that\\nstrange phenomenon, and saw, too, how they could\\nplease the creature by shewing him a glimpse of beauty,\\nthey seemed to think it was better fun to do this, than\\nto go on playing with swings. It was always, however,\\nwith a sort of Zoological expression of countenance\\nthat they looked on the horrible monster from Europe,\\nand whenever one of them gave me to see for one\\nsweet instant, the blushing of her unveiled face, it was\\nwith the same kind of air as that with which a young,\\ntimid girl will edge her way up to an elephant, and\\ntremblingly give him a nut from the tips of her rosy\\nringers.\\n1 The 29th of April.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXV\\nMARIAM\\nTHERE is no spirit of Propagandism in the Mus-\\nsulmans of the Ottoman dominions. True it is\\nthat a prisoner of War, or a Christian condemned to\\ndeath, may on some occasions save his life by adopting\\nthe religion of Mahomet, but instances of this kind are\\nnow exceedingly rare, and are quite at variance with\\nthe general system. Many Europeans, I think, would\\nbe surprised to learn that which is nevertheless quite\\ntrue, namely that an attempt to disturb the religious\\nrepose of the Empire, by the conversion of a Christian\\nto the Mahometan faith is positively illegal an in-\\ncident which occurred at Nablous, and which I am\\ngoing to mention, shewed plainly enough that the un-\\nlawfulness of such interference is recognized even in\\nthe most bigoted stronghold of Islam.\\nDuring my stay at this place I took up my quarters\\nat the house of the Greek Papa, as he is called,\\nthat is, the Greek Priest the priest himself had gone\\nto Jerusalem upon the business I am going to tell you\\nof, but his wife remained at Nablous, and did the\\nhonours of her home.\\nSoon after my arrival, a deputation from the Greek\\nChristians of the place came to request my interference\\nin a matter which had occasioned vast excitement.\\nAnd now I must tell you how it came to happen, as\\nit did continually, that people thought it worth while\\nto claim the assistance of a mere traveller who was\\ntotally devoid of all just pretensions to authority, or", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "MARIAM\\n231\\ninfluence of even the humblest description, and especi-\\nally I must explain to you how it was that the power\\nthus attributed, did really belong to me, or rather to\\nmy Dragoman. Successive political convulsions had\\nat length fairly loosed the people of Syria from their\\nformer rules of conduct, and from all their old habits\\nof reliance. The violence, and success with which\\nMehemet Ali crushed the insurrections of the Maho-\\nmetan population, had utterly beaten down the head of\\nIslam, and extinguished for the time at least, those\\nvirtues, and vices which had sprung from the Ma-\\nhometan Faith. Success so complete as Mehemet\\nAli s, if it had been attained by an ordinary Asiatic\\npotentate, would have induced a notion of stability.\\nThe readily bowing mind of the Oriental would have\\nbowed low, and long under the feet of a conqueror\\nwhom God had thus strengthened. But Syria was\\nno field for contests strictly Asiatic Europe was in-\\nvolved, and though the heavy masses of Egyptian\\ntroops clinging down with strong gripe upon the land,\\nmight seem to hold it fast, yet every peasant practically\\nfelt, and knew that in Vienna, or Petersburg, or Lon-\\ndon, there were four or five pale looking men who\\ncould pull down the star of the Pasha with shreds of\\npaper, and ink. The people of the country knew, too,\\nthat Mehemet Ali was strong with the strength of the\\nEuropeans, strong by his French General, his French\\ntactics, and his English engines. Moreover, they saw\\nthat the person, the property, and even the dignity of\\nthe humblest European was guarded with the most\\ncareful solicitude. The consequence of all this was,\\nthat the people of Syria looked vaguely, but confidently\\nto Europe for fresh changes many would fix upon\\nsome nation, France, or England, and steadfastly\\nregard it as the arriving sovereign of Syria those\\nwhose minds remained in doubt, equally contributed\\nto this new state of public opinion, which no longer\\ndepended upon Religion, and ancient habits, but upon\\nbare hopes, and fears. Every man wanted to know,", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "232\\nEOTHEN\\nnot who was his neighbour, but who was to be his\\nruler whose feet he was to kiss, and by whom his\\nfeet were to be ultimately beaten. Treat your friend,\\nsays the proverb, as though he were one day to become\\nyour enemy, and your enemy as though he were one\\nday to become your friend. 1 The Syrians went further,\\nand seemed inclined to treat every stranger as though\\nhe might one day become their Pasha. Such was the\\nstate of circumstances, and of feeling which now for\\nthe first time had thoroughly opened the mind of\\nWestern Asia for the reception of Europeans and\\nEuropean ideas. The credit of the English especially\\nwas so great, that a good Mussulman flying from the\\nconscription, or any other persecution, would come to\\nseek from the formerly despised hat, that protection\\nwhich the turban could no longer afford, and a man high\\nin authority, (as for instance the Governor in command\\nof Gaza,) would think that he had won a prize, or at all\\nevents a valuable lottery ticket, if he obtained a written\\napproval of his conduct from a simple traveller.\\nStill, in order that any immediate result should\\nfollow from all this unwonted readiness in the Asiatic\\nto succumb to the European, it was necessary that\\nsome one should be at hand, who could see, and would\\npush the advantage I myself had neither the inclina-\\ntion, nor the power to do so, but it happened that\\nDthemetri, who as my Dragoman represented me on\\nall occasions, was the very person of all others best\\nfitted to avail himself with success of this yielding\\ntendency in the Oriental mind. If the chance of birth\\nand fortune had made poor Dthemetri a tailor during\\nsome part of his life, yet Religion, and the literature of\\nthe Church which he served, had made him a Man,\\nand a brave Man too. The lives of Saints with which\\nhe was familiar, were full of heroic actions, which in-\\nvited imitation, and since faith in a creed involves\\na faith in its ultimate triumph, Dthemetri was bold\\n1 Soph. Ajax, 677.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "MARIAM\\n233\\nfrom a sense of true strength his education too,\\nthough not very general in its character, had been\\ncarried quite far enough to justify him in pluming\\nhimself upon a very decided advantage over the great\\nbulk of the Mahometan population, including the men\\nin authority. With all this consciousness of religious,\\nand intellectual superiority Dthemetri had lived for\\nthe most part in countries lying under Mussulman\\nGovernments, and had witnessed, (perhaps too had\\nsuffered from) their revolting cruelties the result was\\nthat he abhorred, and despised the Mahometan faith,\\nand all who clung to it. And this hate was not of the\\ndry, dull, and inactive sort Dthemetri was in his\\nsphere a true Crusader, and whenever there appeared\\na fair opening in the defences of Islam, he was ready,\\nand eager to make the assault. These sentiments,\\nbacked by a consciousness of understanding the people\\nwith whom he had to do, made Dthemetri not only\\nfirm and resolute in his constant interviews with men\\nin authority, but sometimes also (as you may know\\nalready,) very violent, and even insulting. This tone,\\nwhich I always disliked, though I was fain to profit by\\nit, invariably succeeded it swept away all resistance\\nthere was nothing in the then depressed, and succumb-\\ning mind of the Mussulman that could oppose a zeal so\\nwarm, and fierce.\\nAs for me, I of course stood aloof from Dthemetri s\\ncrusades, and did not even render him any active\\nassistance when he was striving, (as he almost always\\nwas, poor fellow) on my behalf I was only the death s\\nhead, and white sheet with which he scared the enemy;\\nI think, however, that I played this spectral part\\nexceedingly well, for I seldom appeared at all in any\\ndiscussion, and whenever I did, I was sure to be pale,\\nand calm.\\nThe event which induced the Christians of Nablous\\nto seek for my assistance was this. A beautiful young\\nChristian, between fifteen and sixteen years old, had\\nlately been married to a man of her own creed. About", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "234\\nEOTHEN\\nthe same time, (probably on the occasion of her\\nwedding) she was accidentally seen by a Mussulman\\nSheik of great wealth, and local influence, who in-\\nstantly became madly enamoured of her. The strict\\nmorality, which so generally prevails where the Mus-\\nsulmans have complete ascendancy, prevented the\\nSheik from entertaining any such sinful hopes as an\\nEuropean might have ventured to cherish under the\\nlike circumstances, and he saw no chance of gratifying\\nhis love, except by inducing the girl to embrace his\\nown creed if he could induce her to take this step,\\nher marriage with the Christian would be dissolved,\\nand then there would be nothing to prevent him from\\nmaking her the last, and brightest of his wives. The\\nSheik was a practical man, and quickly began his\\nattack upon the theological opinions of the bride he\\ndid not assail her with the eloquence of any Imaums,\\nor Mussulman Saints he did not press upon her the\\neternal truths of the Cow, 1 or the beautiful morality\\nof the Table, he sent her no tracts not even a\\ncopy of the holy Koran. An old woman acted as\\nmissionary. She brought with her a whole basket full\\nof arguments jewels, and shawls, and scarfs, and all\\nkinds of persuasive finery. Poor Mariam she put on\\nthe jewels, and took a calm view of the Mahometan\\nReligion in a little hand mirror she could not be deaf\\nto such eloquent ear-rings, and the great truths of\\nIslam came home to her young bosom in the delicate\\nfolds of the Cashmere she was ready to abandon her\\nfaith.\\nThe Sheik knew very well that his attempt to con-\\nvert an infidel was illegal, and that his proceedings\\nwould not bear investigation, so he took care to pay a\\nlarge sum to the Governor of Nablous in order to\\nobtain his connivance.\\nAt length Mariam quitted her home, and placed\\n1 These are the names given by the Prophet to certain chap-\\nters of the Koran.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "MARIAM\\n235\\nherself under the protection of the Mahometan au-\\nthorities, who, however, refrained from delivering her\\ninto the arms of her lover, and detained her in a\\nmosque until the fact of her real conversion (which\\nhad been indignantly denied by her relatives) should\\nbe established. For two or three days the mother of\\nthe young convert was prevented from communicating\\nwith her child by various evasive contrivances, but not,\\nit would seem, by a flat refusal. At length it was an-\\nnounced that the young lady s profession of faith might\\nbe heard from her own lips. At an hour appointed,\\nthe friends of the Sheik, and the relatives of the damsel\\nmet in the mosque. The young convert addressed her\\nmother in a loud voice, and said, God is God, and\\nMahomet is the Prophet of God, and thou oh my\\nmother, art an infidel feminine dog 55\\nYou would suppose that this declaration, so clearly\\nenounced, and that, too, in a place where Mahometan-\\nism is, perhaps, more supreme than in any other part\\nof the Empire, would have sufficed to confirm the pre-\\ntensions of the lover. This, however, was not the case.\\nThe Greek Priest of the place was despatched on a\\nmission to the Governor of Jerusalem, (Aboo Goosh) in\\norder to complain against the proceedings of the Sheik,\\nand obtain a restitution of the bride. Meanwhile the\\nMahometan authorities at Nablous were so conscious\\nof having acted unlawfully, in conspiring to disturb the\\nfaith of the beautiful infidel, that they hesitated to take\\nany further step, and the girl was still detained in the\\nmosque.\\nThus matters stood when the Christians of the place\\ncame and sought to obtain my assistance.\\nI felt (with regret) that I had no personal interest in\\nthe matter, and I also thought that there was no pre-\\ntence for my interfering with the conflicting claims of\\nthe Christian husband, and the Mahometan lover, and\\nI, therefore, declined to take any step.\\nMy speaking of the husband, by the by, reminds me\\nthat he was extremely backward about the great work", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "236\\nEOTHEN\\nof recovering his youthful bride. The relations of the\\ngirl, who felt themselves disgraced by her conduct,\\nwere vehement, and excited to a high pitch, but the\\nMenelaus of Nablous was exceedingly calm, and\\ncomposed.\\nThe fact, that it was not technically my duty to in-\\nterfere in a matter of this kind, was a very sufficient,\\nand yet a very unsatisfactory reason for my refusal of\\nall assistance. Until you are placed in situations of\\nthis kind, you can hardly tell how painful it is to refrain\\nfrom intermeddling in other people s affairs to refrain\\nfrom intermeddling when you feel that you can do so\\nwith happy effect, and can remove a load of distress by\\nthe use of a few small phrases. Upon this occasion,\\nhowever, an expression fell from one of the girPs kins-\\nmen, which not only determined me against all interfer-\\nence, but made me hope that all attempts to recover\\nthe proselyte would fail this person, speaking with\\nthe most savage bitterness, and with the cordial\\napproval of all the other relatives, said that the girl\\nought to be beaten to death. I could not fail to see\\nthat if the poor child were ever restored to her family,\\nshe would be treated with the most frightful barbarity\\nI heartily wished, therefore, that the Mussulmans\\nmight be firm, and preserve their young prize from any\\nfate so dreadful as that of a return to her own relations.\\nThe next day the Greek Priest returned from his\\nmission to Aboo Goosh, but the father of lies, it\\nwould seem, had been well plied with the gold of the\\nenamoured Sheik, and contrived to put off the prayers\\nof the Christians by cunning feints. Now, therefore,\\na second, and more numerous deputation than the first\\nwaited upon me, and implored my intervention with\\nthe Governor. I informed the assembled Christians\\nthat since their last application I had carefully con-\\nsidered the matter. The religious question I thought\\nmight be put aside at once, for the excessive levity\\nwhich the girl had displayed proved clearly that, in\\nadopting Mahometanism, she was not quitting any", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "MARIAM\\n237\\nother religion her mind must have been thoroughly\\nblank upon religious questions, and she was not, there-\\nfore, to be treated as a Christian that had strayed from\\nthe flock, but rather as a child without any religion at\\nall, who was willing to conform to the usages of those\\nwho would deck her with jewels, and clothe her with\\ncashmere shawls.\\nSo much for the religious part of the question. Well,\\nthen, in a merely temporal sense, it appeared to me\\nthat (looking merely to the interests of the damsel, for\\nI rather unjustly put poor Menelaus quite out of the\\nquestion,) the advantages were all on the side of the\\nMahometan match. The Sheik was in a much higher\\nstation of life than the superseded husband, and had\\ngiven the best possible proof of his ardent affection, by\\nthe sacrifices which he had made, and the risks which\\nhe had incurred for the sake of the beloved object. I,\\ntherefore, stated fairly, to the horror and amazement\\nof all my hearers, that the Sheik, in my view, was\\nlikely to make a most capital husband, and that I\\nentirely approved of the match.\\nI left Nablous under the impression that Mariam\\nwould soon be delivered to her Mussulman lover I\\nafterwards found, however, that the result was very\\ndifferent. Dthemetri s religious zeal, and hate had\\nbeen so much excited by the account of these events,\\nand by the grief and mortification of his co-religionists,\\nthat when he found me firmly determined to decline all\\ninterference in the matter, he secretly appealed to the\\nGovernor in my name, and (using, I suppose, many\\nviolent threats, and, telling, no doubt, many lies about\\nmy station, and influence,) extorted a promise that the\\nproselyte should be restored to her relatives. I did\\nnot understand that the girl had been actually given\\nup whilst I remained at Nablous, but Dthemetri cer-\\ntainly did not desist from his instances until he had\\nsatisfied himself by some means or other (for mere\\nwords amounted to nothing) that the promise would\\nbe actually performed. It was not till I had quitted", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "238\\nEOTHEN\\nSyria, and when Dthemetri was no longer in my service,\\nthat this villanous, though well-motived trick of his\\ncame to my knowledge Mysseri, who informed me of\\nthe step which had been taken, did not know it himself\\nuntil some time after we had quitted Nablous, when\\nDthemetri exultingly confessed his successful enter-\\nprise. I know not whether the engagement which my\\nzealous Dragoman extorted from the Governor was\\never complied with. I shudder to think of the fate\\nwhich must have befallen poor Mariam, if she fell into\\nthe hands of her husband.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVI\\nTHE PROPHET DAMOOR\\nFOR some hours I passed along the shores of the\\nfair Lake of Galilee, and then turning a little to\\nthe westward, I struck into a mountainous country, the\\ncharacter of which became more beautiful as I advanced.\\nAt length I drew near to Safet, which sits as proud as\\na fortress upon the summit of a craggy height, and yet\\nbecause of its minarets, and stately trees, the place\\nlooks bright, and beautiful. It is one of the holy cities\\nof the Talmud, and according to this authority, the\\nMessiah will reign there forty years before he takes\\npossession of Sion. The sanctity thus attributed to\\nthe city renders it a favourite place of retirement for\\nIsraelites, of whom it contains four thousand, a number\\nnearly balancing that of the Mahometan inhabitants.\\nI knew by my experience of Tabarieh that a holy\\ncity was sure to have a population of vermin some-\\nwhat proportionate to the number of its Israelites, and\\nI therefore caused my tent to be pitched upon a green\\nspot of ground at a respectful distance from the walls\\nof the town.\\nWhen it had become quite dark (for there was no\\nmoon that night,) I was informed that several Jews had\\nsecretly come from the city, in the hope of obtaining\\nsome assistance from me in circumstances of imminent\\ndanger I was also informed that they claimed my aid\\nupon the ground that some of their number were\\nBritish subjects. It was arranged that the two prin-\\ncipal men of the party should speak for the rest, and", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "240\\nEOTHEN\\nthese were accordingly admitted into my tent. One\\nof the two called himself the British Vice-Consul, and\\nhe had with him his consular cap, but he frankly said\\nthat he could not have dared to assume this emblem\\nof his dignity in the day time, and that nothing but the\\nextreme darkness of the night rendered it safe for him\\nto put it on upon this occasion. The other of the\\nspokesmen was a Jew of Gibraltar, a tolerably well-\\nbred person, who spoke English very fluently.\\nThese men informed me that the Jews of the place,\\nwho were exceedingly wealthy, had lived peaceably in\\ntheir retirement until the insurrection which took place\\nin 1834, but about the beginning of that year a highly\\nreligious Mussulman, called Mohammed Damoor, went\\nforth into the market-place, crying with a loud voice,\\nand prophesying, that on the fifteenth of the following\\nJune the true Believers would rise up in just wrath\\nagainst the Jews, and despoil them of their gold, and\\ntheir silver, and their jewels. The earnestness of the\\nprophet produced some impression at the time, but all\\nwent on as usual, until at last the fifteenth of June\\narrived. When that day dawned, the whole Mussul-\\nman population of the place assembled in the streets,\\nthat they might see the result of the prophecy.\\nSuddenly Mohammed Damoor rushed furious into the\\ncrowd, and the fierce shout of the prophet soon ensured\\nthe fulfilment of his prophecy. Some of the Jews fled,\\nand some remained, but they who fled, and they who\\nremained, alike and unresistingly left their property to\\nthe hands of the spoilers. The most odious of all\\noutrages, that of searching the women for the base\\npurpose of discovering such things as gold, and silver\\nconcealed about their persons, was perpetrated without\\nshame. The poor Jews were so stricken with terror,\\nthat they submitted to their fate, even where resistance\\nwould have been easy. In several instances a young\\nMussulman boy, not more than ten or twelve years of\\nage, walked straight into the house of a Jew, and\\nstripped him of his property before his face, and in the", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "THE PROPHET DAMOOR 241\\npresence of his whole family. 1 When the insurrection\\nwas put down, some of the Mussulmans (most probably\\nthose who had got no spoil wherewith they might buy\\nimmunity), were punished, but the greater part of them\\nescaped none of the booty was restored, and the\\npecuniary redress which the Pasha had undertaken to\\nenforce for them, had been hitherto so carefully delayed,\\nthat the hope of ever obtaining it had grown very faint.\\nA new Governor had been appointed to the command\\nof the place, with stringent orders to ascertain the real\\nextent of the losses, and to discover the spoilers, with\\na view of compelling them to make restitution. It was\\nfound that, notwithstanding the urgency of the instruc-\\ntions which the Governor had received, he did not\\npush on the affair with the vigour which had been\\nexpected the Jews complained, and either by the\\nprotection of the British Consul at Damascus, or by\\nsome other means, had influence enough to induce the\\nappointment of a special Commissioner they called\\nhim the Modeer whose duty it was to watch for,\\nand prevent anything like connivance on the part of\\nthe Governor, and to push on the investigation with\\nvigour and impartiality.\\nSuch were the instructions with which some few\\nweeks since the Modeer came fraught the result was\\nthat the investigation had made no practical advance,\\nand that the Modeer, as well as the Governor, was\\nliving upon terms of affectionate friendship with\\nMohammed Damoor, and the rest of the principal\\nspoilers.\\nThus stood the chances of redress for the past, but\\nthe cause of the agonizing excitement under which\\nthe Jews of the place now laboured, was recent, and\\njustly alarming Mohammed Damoor had again gone\\nforth into the market place, and lifted up his voice, and\\nprophesied a second spoliation of the Israelites. This\\n1 It was after the interview which I am talking of, and not\\nfrom the Jews themselves that I learnt this fact.\\nR", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "242\\nEOTHEN\\nwas grave matter the words of such a practical man\\nas Mohammed Damoor were not to be despised. I\\nfear I must have smiled visibly, for I was greatly\\namused, and even, I think, gratified at the account of\\nthis second prophecy. Nevertheless, my heart warmed\\ntowards the poor oppressed Israelites, and I was flat-\\ntered, too, in the point of my national vanity at the\\nnotion of the far-reaching link, by which a Jew in\\nSyria, who had been born on the rock of Gibraltar,\\nwas able to claim me as his fellow-countryman. If I\\nhesitated at all between the impropriety of inter-\\nfering in a matter which was no business of mine, and\\nthe horrid shame of refusing my aid at such a con-\\njecture, I soon came to a very ungentlemanly decision\\nnamely, that I would be guilty of the impropriety,\\nand not of the horrid shame. It seemed to me that\\nthe immediate arrest of Mohammed Damoor was the\\none thing needful to the safety of the Jews, and I felt\\nconfident, (for reasons which I have already mentioned\\nin speaking of the Nablous affair) that I should be\\nable to obtain this result by making a formal applica-\\ntion to the Governor. I told my applicants that I\\nwould take this step on the following morning they\\nwere very grateful, and were for a moment much\\npleased at the prospect of safety which might thus be\\nopened to them, but the deliberation of a minute\\nentirely altered their views, and filled them with new\\nterror they declared, that any attempt, or pretended\\nattempt on the part of the Governor to arrest Mo-\\nhammed Damoor would certainly produce an im-\\nmediate movement of the whole Mussulman popula-\\ntion, and a consequent massacre and robbery of the\\nIsraelites. My visitors went out, and occupied con-\\nsiderable time, if I rightly remember, in consulting\\ntheir brethren, but all agreed that their present peril-\\nous, and painful position was better than the certain,\\nand immediate attack which would be made if Mo-\\nhammed Damoor were seized that their second estate\\nwould be worse than their first. I myself did not", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "THE PROPHET DAMOOR\\nthink that this would be the case, but I could not of\\ncourse, force my aid upon the people against their\\nwill, and moreover the day fixed for the fulfilment of\\nthis second prophecy was not very close at hand a\\nlittle delay, therefore, in providing against the impend-\\ning danger, would not necessarily be fatal. The men\\nnow confessed that although they had come with so\\nmuch mystery, and, as they thought, at so great a risk\\nto ask my assistance, they were unable to suggest any\\nmode in which I could aid them, except, indeed, by\\nmentioning their grievances to the Consul-general at\\nDamascus. This I promised to do, and this I did.\\nMy visitors were very thankful to me for the readi-\\nness which I had shewn to intermeddle in their affairs,\\nand the grateful wives of the principal Jews sent to me\\nmany compliments, with choice wines, and elaborate\\nsweetmeats.\\nThe course of my travels soon drew me so far from\\nSafet, that I never heard how the dreadful day passed\\noff which had been fixed for the accomplishment of the\\nsecond prophecy. If the predicted spoliation was pre-\\nvented, poor Mohammed Damoor must have been\\nforced, I suppose, to say that he had prophesied in a\\nmetaphorical sense. This would be a sad falling off\\nfrom the brilliant and substantial success of the first\\nexperiment.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVII\\nDAMASCUS\\nOR a part of two days I wound under the base of\\nthe snow-crowned Djibel el Sheik, and then en-\\ntered upon a vast, and desolate plain, rarely pierced at\\nintervals by some sort of withered stem. The earth in\\nits length, and its breadth, and all the deep universe\\nof sky, was steeped in light, and heat. On I rode\\nthrough the fire, but long before evening came, there\\nwere straining eyes that saw, and joyful voices that\\nannounced the sight of Shaum Shereef the Holy,\\nthe Blessed Damascus.\\nBut that which at last I reached with my longing\\neyes, was not a speck in the horizon, gradually expand-\\ning to a group of roofs and walls, but a long, low line\\nof blackest green, that ran right across in the dis-\\ntance from East to West. And this, as I approached,\\ngrew deeper grew wavy in its outline soon forest\\ntrees shot up before my eyes, and robed their broad\\nshoulders so freshly, that all the throngs of olives as\\nthey rose into view looked sad in their proper dimness.\\nThere were even now no houses to see, but only the\\nminarets peered out from the midst of shade into the\\nglowing sky, and bravely touched the Sun. There\\nseemed to be here no mere city, but rather a province,\\nwide, and rich, that bounded the torrid waste.\\nUntil within a year or two of the time at which I\\nwent there, Damascus had kept up so much of the old\\nbigot zeal against Christians, or rather against Euro-\\npeans, that no one dressed as a Frank could have", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "DAMASCUS\\n245\\ndared to shew himself in the streets but the firmness\\nand temper of Mr. Farren, who hoisted his flag in the\\ncity as Consul-general for the district, had soon put an\\nend to all intolerance of Englishmen. Damascus was\\nsafer than Oxford. 1 When I entered the city, in my\\nusual dress, there was but one poor fellow that wagged\\nhis tongue, and him, in the open streets, Dthemetri\\nhorse-whipped. During my stay I went wherever I\\nchose, and attended the public baths without molesta-\\ntion. Indeed my relations with the pleasanter portion\\nof the Mahometan population, were upon a much better\\nfooting here than at most other places.\\nIn the principal streets of Damascus there is a path\\nfor foot passengers, which is raised, I think, a foot or\\ntwo above the bridle-road. Until the arrival of the\\nBritish Consul-general, none but a Mussulman had\\nbeen permitted to walk upon the upper way Mr.\\nFarren would not, of course, suffer that the humiliation\\nof any such exclusion should be submitted to by an\\nEnglishman, and I always walked upon the raised\\npath as free and unmolested as if I had been striding\\nthrough Bond Street the old usage was, however,\\nmaintained with as much strictness as ever against the\\nChristian Rayahs, and Jews not one of them could\\nhave set his foot upon the privileged path without en-\\ndangering his life.\\nI was lounging one day, I remember, along the\\n1 An enterprising American traveller, Mr. Everett, lately con-\\nceived the bold project of penetrating to the University of\\nOxford, and this, notwithstanding that he had been in his in-\\nfancy (they begin very young those Americans) an Unitarian\\npreacher. Having a notion, it seems, that the Ambassadorial\\ncharacter would protect him from insult, he adopted the stratagem\\nof procuring credentials from his government as Minister Pleni-\\npotentiary at the Court of her Britannic Majesty he also wore\\nthe exact costume of a Trinitarian, but all his contrivances were\\nvain; Oxford disdained, and rejected him (not because he repre-\\nsented a swindling community, but) because that his infantine\\nsermons were strictly remembered against him the enterprise\\nfailed.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "246\\nEOTHEN\\npaths of the faithful, when a Christian Rayah from the\\nbridle-road below saluted me with such earnestness, and\\ncraved So anxiously to speak, and be spoken to, that\\nhe soon brought me to a halt he had nothing to tell,\\nexcept only the glory, and exultation with which he\\nsaw a fellow Christian stand level with the imperious\\nMussulmans perhaps he had been absent from the\\nplace for some time, for otherwise I hardly know how\\nit could have happened that my exaltation was the first\\ninstance he had seen. His joy was great so strong,\\nand strenuous was England, (Lord Palmerston reigned\\nin those days) that it was a pride, and delight for a\\nSyrian Christian to look up, and say that the English-\\nman s faith was his too; if I was vexed at all that I\\ncould not give the man a lift, and shake hands with\\nhim on level ground, there was no alloy to his pleasure;\\nhe followed me on, not looking to his own path, but\\nkeeping his eyes on me he saw, as he thought, and\\nsaid (for he came with me on to my quarters) the\\nperiod of the Mahometan s absolute ascendancy the\\nbeginning of the Christian s. He had so closely asso-\\nciated the insulting privilege of the path with actual\\ndominion, that seeing it now in one instance aban-\\ndoned, he looked for the quick coming of European\\ntroops. His lips only whispered, and that tremulously,\\nbut his fiery eye spoke out their triumph in long, and\\nloud hurrahs I, too, am a Christian. My foes are\\nthe foes of the English. We are all one people, and\\nChrist is our King.\\nIf I poorly deserved, yet I liked this claim of brother-\\nhood. Not all the warnings which I heard against\\ntheir rascality could hinder me from feeling kindly\\ntowards my fellow-Christians in the East. English\\ntravellers, from a habit perhaps of depreciating sect-\\narians in their own country, are apt to look down upon\\nthe Oriental Christians as being dissenters from the\\nestablished religion of a Mahometan Empire. I never\\ndid thus. By a natural perversity of disposition, which\\nmy nursemaids called contrariness, I felt the more", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "DAMASCUS\\n247\\nstrongly for my creed when I saw it despised among\\nmen. I quite tolerated the Christianity of Mahometan\\ncountries notwithstanding its humble aspect, and the\\ndamaged character of its followers I went further,\\nand extended some sympathy towards those who, with\\nall the claims of superior intellect, learning, and in-\\ndustry, were kept down under the heel of the Mussul-\\nmans by reason of their having our faith. I heard, as\\nI fancied, the faint echo of an old Crusader s conscience,\\nthat whispered, and said, Common cause The\\nimpulse was, as you may suppose, much too feeble to\\nbring me into trouble it merely influenced my actions\\nin a way thoroughly characteristic of this poor, sluggish\\ncentury that is, by making me speak almost as civilly\\nto the followers of Christ as I did to their Mahometan\\nfoes.\\nThis Holy Damascus, this earthly paradise of\\nthe Prophet, so fair to the eyes, that he dared not trust\\nhimself to tarry in her blissful shades, she is a city of\\nhidden palaces, of copses, and gardens, and fountains,\\nand bubbling streams. The juice of her life is the\\ngushing, and ice-cold torrent that tumbles from the\\nsnowy sides of Anti-Lebanon. Close along on the\\nriver s edge through seven sweet miles of rustling\\nboughs, and deepest shade, the city spreads out her\\nwhole length as a man falls flat, face forward on the\\nbrook, that he may drink, and drink again, so Damas-\\ncus, thirsting for ever, lies down with her lips to the\\nstream, and clings to its rushing waters.\\nThe chief places of public amusement, or, rather, of\\npublic relaxation, are the baths, and the great cafe\\nthis last, which is frequented at night by most of the\\nwealthy men, and by many of the humbler sort, consists\\nof a number of sheds very simply framed, and built in a\\nlabyrinth of running streams, which foam, and roar on\\nevery side. The place is lit up in the simplest manner\\nby numbers of small, pale lamps, strung upon loose\\ncords, and so suspended from branch to branch, that\\nthe light, though it looks so quiet amongst the darken-", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "248\\nEOTHEN\\ning foliage, yet leaps, and brightly flashes, as it falls\\nupon the troubled waters. All around, and chiefly\\nupon the very edge of the torrents, groups of people\\nare tranquilly seated. They all drink coffee, and inhale\\nthe cold fumes of the narguile they talk rather gently\\nthe one to the other, or else are silent. A father will\\nsometimes have two, or three of his boys around him,\\nbut the joyousness of an Oriental child is all of the\\nsober sort, and never disturbs the reigning calm of the\\nland.\\nIt has been generally understood, I believe, that the\\nhouses of Damascus are more sumptuous than those of\\nany other city in the East. Some of these said to be\\nthe most magnificent in the place I had an oppor-\\ntunity of seeing.\\nEvery rich man s house stands detached from its\\nneighbours, at the side of a garden, and it is from this\\ncause, no doubt, that the city has hitherto escaped de-\\nstruction. You know some parts of Spain, but you\\nhave never, I think, been in Andalusia if you had, I\\ncould easily shew you the interior of a Damascene\\nhouse, by referring you to the Alhambra, or Alcanzar\\nof Seville. The lofty rooms are adorned with a rich\\ninlaying of many colours, and illuminated writing on\\nthe walls. The floors are of marble. One side of any\\nroom intended for noon-day retirement is generally\\nlaid open to a quadrangle, in the centre of which there\\ndances the jet of a fountain. There is no furniture\\nthat can interfere with the cool, palace-like emptiness\\nof the apartments. A divan (which is a low, and\\ndoubly broad sofa,) runs round the three walled sides\\nof the room a few Persian carpets (which ought to be\\ncalled Persian rugs, for that is the word which indicates\\ntheir shape and dimension,) are sometimes thrown\\nabout near the divan they are placed without order,\\nthe one partly lapping over the other, and thus dis-\\nposed, they give to the room an appearance of uncaring\\nluxury except these, (of which I saw few, for the time\\nwas summer, and fiercely hot,) there is nothing to", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "DAMASCUS\\n249\\nobstruct the welcome air, and the whole of the marble\\nfloor from one divan to the other, and from the head of\\nthe chamber across to the murmuring fountain, is\\nthoroughly open, and free.\\nSo simple as this is Asiatic luxury The Oriental\\nis not a contriving animal there is nothing intricate\\nin his magnificence. The impossibility of handing\\ndown property from father to son for any long period\\nconsecutively, seems to prevent the existence of those\\ntraditions by which, with us, the refined modes of\\napplying wealth are made known to its inheritors.\\nWe know that in England a newly made rich man can-\\nnot, by taking thought, and spending money, obtain\\neven the same-looking furniture as a Gentleman. The\\ncomplicated character of an English establishment\\nallows room for subtle distinctions between that which\\nis comme il faut, and that which is not. All such re-\\nfinements are unknown in the East the Pasha and the\\npeasant have the same tastes. The broad, cold marble\\nfloor the simple couch the air freshly waving through\\na shady chamber a verse of the Koran emblazoned\\non the walls\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the sight and the sound of falling water\\nthe cold, fragrant smoke of the narguile, and a small\\ncollection of wives, and children in the inner apart-\\nments all these, the utmost enjoyments of the grandee,\\nare yet such as to be appreciable by the humblest\\nMussulman in the empire.\\nBut its gardens are the delight the delight, and the\\npride of Damascus they are not the formal parterres\\nwhich you might expect from the Oriental taste they\\nrather bring back to your mind the memory of some\\ndark old shrubbery in our northern isle, that has been\\ncharmingly un- kept up for many and many a day.\\nWhen you see a rich wilderness of wood in decent\\nEngland, it is like enough that you see it with some\\nsoft regrets. The puzzled old woman at the lodge can\\ngive small account of The family. She thinks it is\\nItaly that has made the whole circle of her world so\\ngloomy, and sad. You avoid the house in lively dread", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "250\\nEOTHEN\\nof a lone housekeeper, but you make your way on by\\nthe stables you remember that gable with all its\\nneatly nailed trophies of fitches, and hawks, and owls,\\nnow slowly falling to pieces you remember that stable,\\nand that, but the doors are all fastened that used to be\\nstanding ajar the paint of things painted is blistered,\\nand cracked grass grows in the yard just there, in\\nOctober mornings, the keeper would wait with the dogs\\nand the guns no keeper now you hurry away, and\\ngain the small wicket that used to open to the touch of\\na lightsome hand it is fastened with a padlock (the\\nonly new-looking thing) and is stained with thick,\\ngreen damp you climb it, and bury yourself in the\\ndeep shade, and strive but lazily with the tangling\\nbriars, and stop for long minutes to judge, and deter-\\nmine whether you will creep beneath the long boughs,\\nand make them your archway, or whether perhaps you\\nwill lift your heel, and tread them down underfoot.\\nLong doubt, and scarcely to be ended, till you wake\\nfrom the memory of those days when the path was\\nclear, and chase that phantom of a muslin sleeve that\\nonce weighed warm upon your arm.\\nWild as that the nighest woodland of a deserted\\nhome in England, but without its sweet sadness, is the\\nsumptuous garden of Damascus. Forest trees, tall,\\nand stately enough, if you could see their lofty crests,\\nyet lead a tussling life of it below, with their branches\\nstruggling against strong numbers of bushes, and wilful\\nshrubs. The shade upon the earth is black as night\\nHigh, high above your head, and on every side all\\ndown to the ground the thicket is hemmed in, and\\nchoked up by the interlacing boughs that droop with\\nthe weight of roses, and load the slow air with their\\ndamask breath. 1 There are no other flowers. Here\\nand there, there are patches of ground made clear from\\nthe cover, and these are either carelessly planted with\\n1 The rose trees which I saw were all of the kind we call\\ndamask they grow to an immense height, and size.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "DAMASCUS\\n251\\nsome common and useful vegetable, or else are left free\\nto the wayward ways of Nature, and bear rank weeds,\\nmoist-looking, and cool to your eyes, and freshening\\nthe sense with their earthy, and bitter fragrance.\\nThere is a lane opened through the thicket, so broad\\nin some places, that you can pass along side by side\\nin some, so narrow (the shrubs are for ever encroach-\\ning) that you ought, if you can, to go on the first, and\\nhold back the bough of the rose tree. And through\\nthis wilderness there tumbles a loud rushing stream,\\nwhich is halted at last in the lowest corner of the\\ngarden, and there tossed up in a fountain by the side\\nof the simple alcove. This is all.\\nNever for an instant will the people of Damascus\\nattempt to separate the idea of bliss from these wild\\ngardens, and rushing waters. Even where your best\\naffections are concerned, and you prudent preachers\\nhold hard, and turn aside when they come near the\\nmysteries of the happy state, and we, (prudent preachers\\ntoo) we will hush our voices, and never reveal to finite\\nbeings the joys of the Earthly Paradise.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXVIII\\nPASS OF THE LEBANON\\nTHE ruins of Baalbec! Shall I scatter the\\nvague, solemn thoughts, and all the airy phan-\\ntasies which gather together, when once those words\\nare spoken, that I may give you instead, tall columns,\\nand measurements true, and phrases built with ink\\nNo, no the glorious sound shall still float on as of\\nyore, and still hold fast upon your brain with their own\\ndim, and infinite meaning.\\nCome Baalbec is over I got rather well out\\nof that.\\nThe pass by which I crossed the Lebanon is like, I\\nthink, in its features to one which you must know,\\nnamely, that of the Foorca in the Bernese Oberland.\\nFor a great part of the way I toiled rather painfully\\nthrough the dazzling snow, but the labour of ascending\\nadded to the excitement with which I looked for the\\nsummit of the pass. The time came. There was a\\nminute in the which, I saw nothing but the steep, white\\nshoulder of the mountain, and there was another\\nminute, and that the next, which shewed me a nether\\nHeaven of fleecy clouds that floated along far down in\\nthe air beneath me, and shewed me beyond, the breadth\\nof all Syria west of the Lebanon. But chiefly I clung\\nwith my eyes to the dim, steadfast line of the sea which\\nclosed my utmost view I had grown well used of late\\nto the people, and the scenes of forlorn Asia well used\\nto tombs, and ruins, to silent cities and deserted plains,\\nto tranquil men, and women sadly veiled and now", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "PASS OF THE LEBANON 253\\nthat I saw the even plain of the sea, I leapt with an\\neasy leap to its yonder shores, and saw all the king-\\ndoms of the West in that fair path that could lead me\\nfrom out of this silent land straight on into shrill\\nMarseilles, or round by the pillars of Hercules, to the\\ncrash, and roar of London. My place upon this divid-\\ning barrier was as a man s puzzling station in eternity,\\nbetween the birthless Past, and the Future that has no\\nend. Behind me I left an old, decrepit World\\nReligions dead and dying calm tyrannies expiring in\\nsilence women hushed, and swathed, and turned into\\nwaxen dolls \u00e2\u0080\u0094Love flown, and in its stead mere Royal,\\nand Paradise pleasures. Before me there waited\\nglad bustle and strife, Love itself, an emulous game,\\nReligion a Cause and a Controversy, well smitten\\nand well defended, men governed by reasons, and\\nsuasion of speech, wheels going, steam buzzing, a\\nmortal race, and a slashing pace, and the Devil taking\\nthe hindmost, taking me by Jove, (for that was my\\ninner care,) if I lingered too long, upon the difficult\\nPass that leads from Thought to Action.\\nI descended and went towards the West.\\nThe group of Cedars, remaining on this part of the\\nLebanon is held sacred by the Greek Church, on\\naccount of a prevailing notion that the trees were\\nstanding at a time when the Temple of Jerusalem was\\nbuilt. They occupy three or four acres on the moun-\\ntain s side, and many of them are gnarled in a way\\nthat implies great age, but except these signs I saw\\nnothing in their appearance or conduct that tended to\\nprove them contemporaries of the cedars employed in\\nSolomon s Temple. The final cause to which these\\naged survivors owed their preservation, was explained\\nto me in the evening by a glorious old fellow, (a\\nChristian Chief,) who made me welcome in the valley\\nof Eden. In ancient times, the whole range of the\\nLebanon had been covered with cedars, and as the\\nfertile plains beneath became more and more infested\\nwith Government officers and tyrants of high and low", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "254\\nEOTHEN\\ndegree, the people by degrees abandoned them, and\\nflocked to the rugged mountains which were less\\naccessible to their indolent oppressors. The cedar\\nforests gradually shrank under the axe of the encroach-\\ning multitudes, and seemed at last to be on the point\\nof disappearing entirely, when an aged Chief who\\nruled in this district, and who had witnessed the great\\nchange effected even in his own life-time, chose to say\\nthat some sign or memorial should be left of the vast\\nwoods with which the mountains had formerly been\\nclad, and commanded accordingly that this group of\\ntrees (which was probably situate at the highest point\\nto which the forest had reached,) should remain un-\\ntouched. The Chief, it seems, was not moved by the\\nnotion I have mentioned as prevailing in the Greek\\nChurch, but rather by some sentiment of veneration\\nfor a great natural feature, a sentiment akin, perhaps,\\nto that old and earthborn Religion, which made men\\nbow down to Creation before they had yet learnt how\\nto know and worship the Creator.\\nThe Chief of the valley in which I passed the night\\nwas a man of large possessions, and he entertained me\\nvery sumptuously he was highly intelligent, and had\\nhad the sagacity to foresee that Europe would intervene\\nauthoritatively in the affairs of Syria. Bearing this\\nidea in mind, and with a view to give his son an\\nadvantageous start in the ambitious career for which\\nhe was destined, he had hired for him a teacher of the\\nItalian language, the only accessible European tongue.\\nThe tutor, however, who was a native of Syria, either\\ndid not know, or did not choose to teach the European\\nforms of address, but contented himself with instruct-\\ning his pupil in the mere language of Italy. This\\ncircumstance gave me an apportunity (the only one I\\never had, or was likely to have, 1 of hearing the phrases\\nof Oriental courtesy in an European tongue. The boy\\nwas about twelve or thirteen years old, and having the\\n1 A Dragoman never interprets in terms the courteous lan-\\nguage of the East.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "PASS OF THE LEBANON 255\\nadvantage of being able to speak to me without the\\naid of an interpreter, he took a very prominent part in\\ndoing the honours of his father s house. He went\\nthrough his duties with untiring assiduity, and with a\\nkind of gracefulness which can scarcely be conveyed\\nby mere description to those who are unacquainted\\nwith the manners of the Asiatics. The boy s address\\nresembled a little that of a highly polished, and in-\\nsinuating Roman Catholic Priest, but had more of girlish\\ngentleness. It was strange to hear him gravely, and\\nslowly enunciating the common and extravagant com-\\npliments of the East in good Italian, and in soft,\\npersuasive tones I recollect that I was particularly\\namused at the gracious obstinacy with which he main-\\ntained that the house in which I was so hospitably\\nentertained belonged, not to his father, but to me to\\nsay this once, was only to use the common form of\\nspeech, signifying no more than our sweet word\\nwelcome, but the amusing part of the matter was\\nthat, whenever in the course of conversation I happened\\nto speak of his father s house, or the surrounding\\ndomain, the boy invariably interfered to correct my\\npretended mistake, and to assure me once again with\\na gentle decisiveness of manner that the whole property\\nwas really, and exclusively mine, and that his father\\nhad not the most distant pretensions to its ownership.\\nI received from my host much, and (as I now know)\\nmost true information respecting the people of the\\nmountains, and their power of resisting Mehemet Ali.\\nThe Chief gave me very plainly to understand that\\nthe Mountaineers being dependent upon others for\\nbread, and gunpowder, (the two great necessaries of\\nmartial life,) could not long hold out against a power\\nwhich occupied the plains, and commanded the sea,\\nbut he also assured me, and that very significantly,\\nthat, if this source of weakness were provided against,\\nthe Mountaineers were to be depended upon j he told\\nme that, in ten or fifteen days, the Chiefs could bring\\ntogether some fifty thousand fighting men.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XXIX\\nSURPRISE OF SATALIEH\\nWHILST I was remaining upon the coast of Syria,\\nI had the good fortune to become acquainted\\nwith the Russian Sataliefsky, 1 a General Officer, who,\\nin his youth, had fought, and bled at Borodino, but\\nwas now better known among Diplomats by the im-\\nportant trust committed to him at a period highly\\ncritical for the affairs of Eastern Europe I must not\\ntell you his family name my mention of his title can\\ndo him no harm, for it is I, and I only, who have con-\\nferred it, in consideration of the military and diplo-\\nmatic services performed under my own eyes.\\nThe General, as well as I, was bound for Smyrna,\\nand we agreed to sail together in an Ionian Brigan-\\ntine. We did not charter the vessel, but we made our\\narrangement with the Captain upon such terms that\\nwe could be put ashore upon any part of the coast\\nwhich we might think proper. We sailed, and day\\nafter day the vessel lay dawdling on the sea with calms\\nand feeble breezes for her portion. I, myself, was well\\nrepaid for the painful restlessness which such weather\\noccasions, because I gained from my companion a\\nlittle of that vast fund of interesting knowledge with\\nwhich he was stored knowledge, a thousand times\\nthe more highly to be prized, since it was not of\\nthe sort that is to be gathered from books, but only\\n1 A title signifying Transcender or Conqueror of Satalieh.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "SURPRISE OF SATALIEH 257\\nm the lips of those who have acted a part in the\\nrld.\\nWhen, after nine days of sailing, or trying to sail,\\n3 found ourselves still hanging by the mainland to\\ne north of the Isle of Cyprus, we determined to dis-\\nibark at Satalieh, and to proceed from thence by\\nnd. A light breeze favoured our purpose, and it was\\nth great delight that we neared the fragrant land,\\nid saw our anchor go down in the bay of Satalieh,\\nithin two or three hundred yards of the shore.\\nThe town of Satalieh 1 is the chief place of the\\nishalik in which it is situate, and its citadel is the\\nsidence of the Pasha. We had scarcely dropped\\nir anchor, when a boat from the shore came along-\\nde, with officers on board, who announced that the\\nrictest orders had been received for maintaining a\\nlarantine of three weeks against all vessels coming\\nom Syria, and directed accordingly that no one from\\ne vessel should disembark. In reply, we sent a\\nessage to the Pasha, setting forth the rank and titles\\nthe General, and requiring permission to go ashore,\\nfter a while the boat came again alongside, and the\\nrlcers, declaring that the orders received from Con-\\nantinople were imperative, and unexceptional, form-\\nly enjoined us in the name of the Pasha, to abstain\\nom any attempt to land.\\nI had been hitherto much less impatient of our slow\\nyage, than my gallant friend, but this opposition\\nade the smooth sea seem to me like a prison from\\nhich I must, and would break out. I had an un-\\nDunded faith in the feebleness of Asiatic Potentates,\\nid I proposed that we should set the Pasha at de-\\nince. The General had been worked up to a state of\\nost painful agitation by the idea of being driven\\nom the shore which smiled so pleasantly before his\\n;es, and he adopted my suggestion with rapture.\\n1 Spelt Attalia and sometimes Adalia in English books,\\nid maps.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "258 EOTHEN\\nWe determined to land.\\nTo approach the sweet shore after a tedious voyage,\\nand then to be suddenly, and unexpectedly prohibited\\nfrom landing, this is so maddening to the temper,\\nthat no one who had ever experienced the trial would\\nsay, that even the most violent impatience of such\\nrestraint is wholly inexcusable. I am not going to\\npretend, however, that the course which we chose to\\nadopt on this occasion can be perfectly justified. Tljie\\nimpropriety of a traveller s setting at nought the regu-\\nlations of a foreign state is clear enough, and the bad\\ntaste of compassing such a purpose by mere gasconad-\\ning, is still more glaringly plain. I knew perfectly\\nwell that if the Pasha understood his duty, and had\\nenergy enough to perform it, he would order out a fijle\\nof soldiers the moment we landed, and cause us boj:l\\nto be shot upon the beach, without allowing mojre\\ncontact than might be absolutely necessary for the\\npurpose of making us stand fire, but I also firmjly\\nbelieved that the Pasha would not see the line jof\\nconduct which he ought to adopt nearly so well as\\nI did, and that even if he did know his duty, Ijie\\nwould never be able to find resolution enough to per-\\nform it. j\\nWe ordered the boat to be got in readiness, and tme\\nofficers on shore seeing these preparations, gathered\\ntogether a number of guards who assembled upon the\\nsands we saw that great excitement prevailed, arjid\\nthat messengers were continually going to and fjro\\nbetween the shore, and the citadel. Our Captain, opt\\nof compliment to his Excellency, had provided tljie\\nvessel with a Russian war-flag, which he had hoisted\\nalternately with the Union Jack, and we agreed thjat\\nwe would attempt our disembarkation under this, the\\nRussian standard I was glad when we came to that\\nresolution, for I should have been sorry to engage the\\nhonoured flag of England in such an affair as that\\nwhich we were undertaking. The Russian ensign was\\ntherefore committed to one of the sailors who took his", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "SURPRISE OF SATALIEH 259\\nstation at the stern of the boat. We gave particular\\ninstructions to the Captain of the Brigantine, and\\nwhen all was ready, the General and I, with our re-\\nspective servants, got into the boat, and were slowly\\nrowed towards the shore. The guards gathered toge-\\nther at the point for which we were making, but when\\nthey saw that our boat went on without altering her\\ncourse, they ceased to stand very still j none of them\\nran away, or even shrank back, but they looked as if\\nthe pack were being shuffled, every man seeming\\ndesirous to change places with his neighbour. They\\nwere still at their post, however, when our oars went\\nin, and the bow of our boat ran up well up upon the\\nbeach.\\nThe General was lame by an honourable wound\\nwhich he had gained at Borodino, and required some\\nassistance in getting out of the boat I, therefore,\\nlanded the first. My instructions to the Captain were\\nattended to with the most perfect accuracy, for scarcely\\nhad my foot indented the sand, when the four six-\\npounders of the Brigantine sublimely rolled out their\\nbrute thunder. Precisely as I had expected, the guards,\\nand all the people who had gathered about them, gave\\nway under the shock produced by the mere sound of\\nguns, and we were all allowed to disembark without\\nthe least molestation.\\nWe immediately formed a little column, or rather,\\nas I should have called it, a procession, for we had no\\nfighting aptitude in us, and were only trying, as it\\nwere, how far we could go in frightening full-grown\\nchildren. First marched the sailor with the Russian\\nflag of war bravely flying in the breeze then came the\\nGeneral and I then our servants, and lastly, if I\\nrightly recollect, two more of the Brigantine s crew.\\nOur flag-bearer entered into the spirit of the enter-\\nprise, and bore the standard aloft with so much of\\npomp and dignity, that I found it exceedingly hard to\\nkeep a grave countenance. We advanced towards the\\ncastle, but the people had now had time to recover", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "260\\nEOTHEN\\nfrom the effect of the six-pounders, (which were only,\\nof course, loaded with powder,) and they could not\\nhelp seeing, not only the weakness of our party, but\\nthe very slight amount of pomp and power which it\\nseemed to imply they began to hang round us more\\nclosely, and just as this reaction was beginning, the\\nGeneral, who was perfectly unacquainted with the\\nAsiatic character, thoughtlessly turned round, in order\\nto speak to one of the servants the effect of this slight\\nmove was magical the people thought we were going\\nto give way, and instantly closed round us. In two\\nwords, and with one touch, I shewed my comrade the\\ndanger he was running, and in the next instant we\\nwere both advancing more pompously than ever. Some\\nminutes afterwards there was a second appearance of\\nreaction, followed again by wavering, and indecision on\\nthe part of the Pasha s people, but at length it seemed\\nto be understood that we should go unmolested into\\nthe audience hall.\\nConstant communication had been going on between\\nthe receding crowd and the Pasha, and so when we\\nreached the gates of the citadel, we saw that prepara-\\ntions were made for giving us an awe-striking recep-\\ntion. Parting at once from the sailors, and our servants,\\nthe General and I were conducted into the audience\\nhall and there, at least, I suppose, the Pasha hoped\\nthat he would confound us by his greatness. The hall\\nwas nothing more than a large white-washed room\\nOriental potentates have a pride in that sort of sim-\\nplicity, when they can contrast it with the exhibition of\\npower, and this the Pasha was able to do, for the lower\\nend of the hall was filled with his officers these men,\\nof whom I thought there were about fifty or sixty, were\\nall handsomely, though plainly, dressed in the military\\nfrock-coats of Europe they stood in mass, and so as\\nto present a hollow, semicircular front towards the\\nupper end of the hall, at which the Pasha sat they\\nopened a narrow lane for us when we entered, and as\\nsoon as we had passed they again closed up their", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "SURPRISE OF SATALIEH 261\\nranks. An attempt was made to induce us to remain\\nat a respectful distance from his Mightiness to have\\nyielded in this point would have been fatal to our\\nsuccess, perhaps to our lives but the General and I\\nhad already determined upon the place which we\\nshould take, and we rudely pushed on towards the\\nupper end of the hall.\\nUpon the divan, and close up against the right\\nhand corner of the room there sat the Pasha his\\nlimbs gathered in the whole creature coiled up like\\nan adder. His cheeks were deadly pale, and his lips\\nperhaps had turned white, for without moving a muscle\\nthe man impressed me with an immense idea of the\\nwrath within him. He kept his eyes inexorably fixed,\\nas if upon vacancy, and with the look of a man\\naccustomed to refuse the prayers of those who sue for\\nlife. We soon discomposed him, however, from this\\nstudied fixity of feature, for we marched straight up to\\nthe divan, and sat down, the Russian close to the\\nPasha, and I by the side of the Russian. This act\\nastonished the attendants, and plainly disconcerted\\nthe Pasha; he could no longer maintain the glassy\\nstillness of the eyes which he had affected, and evidently\\nbecame much agitated. At the feet of the Satrap\\nthere stood a trembling Italian this man was a sort\\nof medico in the potentate s service, and now, in the\\nabsence of our attendants, he was to act as inter-\\npreter. The Pasha caused him to tell us that we had\\nopenly defied his authority, and had forced our way\\nupon shore in the teeth of his own officers.\\nUp to this time I had been the planner of the enter-\\nprise, but now that the moment had come when all\\nwould depend upon able, and earnest speechifying, I\\nfelt at once the immense superiority of my gallant\\nfriend, and gladly left to him the whole conduct of\\nthe discussion; indeed he had vast advantages over\\nme, not only by his superior command of language,\\nand his far more spirited style of address, but also in\\nhis consciousness of a good cause, for whilst I felt\\nS 2", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "262\\nEOTHEN\\nmyself completely in the wrong, his Excellency had\\nreally worked himself up to believe that the Pasha s\\nrefusal to permit our landing was a gross outrage, and\\ninsult. Therefore, without deigning to defend our\\nconduct, he at once commenced a spirited attack upon\\nthe Pasha. The poor Italian doctor translated one or\\ntwo sentences to the Pasha, but he evidently mitigated\\ntheir import the Russian, growing warm, insisted\\nupon his attack with redoubled enery, and spirit but\\nthe medico, instead of translating, began to shake\\nviolently with terror, and at last he came out with his\\nnon ardisco, and fairly confessed that he dared not\\ninterpret fierce words to his master.\\nNow then, at a time when everything seemed to de-\\npend upon the effect of speech, we were left without\\nan interpreter.\\nBut this very circumstance, which, at first, appeared\\nso unfavourable turned out to be advantageous. The\\nGeneral, finding that he could not have his words\\ntranslated, ceased to speak in Italian, and recurred to\\nhis accustomed French he became eloquent no one\\npresent, except myself, understood one syllable of\\nwhat he was saying, but he had drawn forth his pass-\\nport, and the energy, and violence with which, as be\\nspoke, he pointed to the graven Eagle of Russia began\\nto make an impression the Pasha saw at his side\\na man, who not only seemed to be entirely without\\nfear, but to be raging with just indignation, and thence-\\nforward he plainly began to think that in some way or\\nother, (he could not tell how,) he must certainly have\\nbeen in the wrong. In a little time he was so much\\nshaken, that the Italian ventured to resume his inter-\\npretation, and my comrade had again the opportunity\\nof pressing his attack upon the Pasha his argument,\\nif I rightly recollect its import, was to this effect If\\nthe vilest Jews were to come into the harbour, you\\nwould but forbid them to land, and force them to per-\\nform quarantine, yet this is the very course, O Pasha,\\nwhich your rash officers dared to think of adopting with", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "SURPRISE OF SATALIEH 263\\nus those mad, and reckless men would have actually\\ndealt towards a Russian General Officer, and an Eng-\\nlish Gentleman as if they had been wretched Israel-\\nites Never, never will we submit to such an in-\\ndignity. His Imperial Majesty knows how to protect\\nhis nobles from insult, and would never endure that a\\nGeneral of his army should be treated in matter of\\nquarantine, as though he were a mere Eastern Jew\\nThis argument told with great effect the Pasha fairly\\nadmitted that he felt its weight, and he now only\\nstruggled to obtain a compromise, which might seem\\nto save his dignity he wanted us to perform a quaran-\\ntine of one day for form s sake, and in order to shew\\nhis people that he was not utterly defied, but finding\\nthat we were inexorable, he not only abandoned his\\nattempt, but promised to supply us with horses.\\nWhen the discussion had arrived at this happy con-\\nclusion, tchibouques and coffee were brought, and we\\npassed, I think, nearly an hour in friendly conver-\\nsation. The Pasha, it now appeared, had once been a\\nprisoner of war in Russia, and the conviction of the\\nEmperor s vast power, which he must have acquired\\nduring his captivity, probably rendered him more alive\\nthan an untravelled Turk would have been to the force\\nof my comrade s eloquence.\\nThe Pasha now gave us a generous feast our\\npromised horses w r ere brought without much delay I\\ngained my loved saddle once more, and when the\\nmoon got up, and touched the heights of Taurus, we\\nwere joyfully winding our way through one of his\\nrugged defiles.\\nTHE END.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "V", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "Ill", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "", "height": "1311", "width": "1202", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "INDEX OF NAMES\\nAboo Goosh Father of\\nlies Governor of Jeru-\\nsalem, 228, 235.\\nAdmiral Nicolau, 57.\\nAdrianople, 20.\\nAli Djoubran, Sheik, 127, 131.\\nAmy, 22.\\nAraba, Turkish vehicle, 21, 23.\\nArabian Nights, The, 59.\\nArabs of the Jordan, 123.\\nBaffa (Paphos), 65.\\nBairam, festival of, 178.\\nBalcan, the, 20.\\nBedouin Arabs, 79, 153, 206,\\n220; Shiek, 167.\\nBelgrade, 1, 3.\\nBethlehem, 145.\\nBeyrout, 69.\\nBivouac, a first, 115.\\nBrocas clump, 18.\\nByron, Lord, 87.\\nCairo, plague, 174 banker,\\n180; slave dealers, 186; ma-\\ngician, 187 Italian doctor,\\n191 English doctor, 196.\\nCalvary, Mount, 136.\\nCamels, customs of, 219.\\nCana of Galilee, 105.\\nCarrigaholt, 43, 50.\\nChatham, Lord, 75.\\nCompromised person, a,\\n2 n. 28, 174.\\nConstantinople, 24 the Otto-\\nman lady, 29 buying and\\nselling, 31.\\nCypriote women, 67.\\nCyprus, 64.\\nDamascus, 100, 244 the Chris-\\ntian Rajah, 246 great cafe\\\\\\n247 gardens, 249.\\nDead Sea, the, 119; swimming\\nin, 122.\\nDesert, daily life in the, 158.\\nDjesr el Medjame (bridge over\\nthe Jordan), no.\\nDjibel el Sheik, 244.\\nDjoun (Lady H. Stanhope s\\nresidence), 73, 83.\\nDromedary, the, 204.\\nDruses, 69.\\nDthemetri (interpreter), 72,\\n114, 121, I24, I35, I49, 205,\\n232.\\nEden, valley of, 253 chief of,\\nand his son, 254.\\nEl Arish, in, (Wady) 220.\\nEnfantin, Pere, and Lady H.\\nStanhope, 83.\\nEnglishmen, travelling, 163.\\nEnglish officer in the Desert,\\n165.\\nEton, 18 Dr. Keate, 188\\nlag-remove, 99; toast,\\n161.\\nEverett, Mr. at Oxford, 245 n.\\nFarren, Mr., English consul\\nat Damascus, 245.\\nGalilee, Sea of, 106.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "266\\nEOTHEN\\nGatieh (oasis), 162.\\nGaza, 149, 222.\\nGiuseppini s Hotel, Pera, 25,\\n44.\\nGreek family at Limesol, 62.\\nGreek rayahs, 46 religion, 49\\nsailors, 53.\\nHoly cities of the Jews, 107,\\n239.\\nHoly places of Palestine, 94 n.\\nHoly Sepulchre, the, 135.\\nHomer, 35.\\nHydriot mate, the, 55, 61.\\nIbrahim Pasha, 83, 85, 126\\nat the Holy Sepulchre, 139.\\nIsraelites, the Passage of the\\nRed Sea, 212.\\nJackals in the Desert, 166.\\nJericho (Rihah), 131.\\nJerusalem, Plague at, 102\\npilgrims, 132 as a place of\\nresidence, 144 holy sites at,\\n137.\\nJews at Smyrna, 42 of Safet\\npersecuted, 240.\\nJordan, passage of, 129 pil-\\ngrims bathing, 142.\\nJulia, 68.\\nKeate, Dr., 18, 188.\\nLamartine and Lady H. Stan-\\nhope, 87, 90.\\nLebanon, 73 cedars of, 253.\\nLevantine banker at Cairo,\\nthe, 180.\\nLimesol, Greek family at, 62.\\nMariam, the perverted bride,\\n234.\\nMarie of Anjou, 96.\\nMarlen, church bells of, 169.\\nMehemet Ali, 85, 185, 231.\\nMethley, 4, 20, 30, 35, 38, 41,\\n43, 163.\\nMiller, Larrey, 18.\\nMilnes, 78, 154 n.\\nMohammed Damoor, 240.\\nMonks in Syria, 98.\\nMoostapha Pasha, of Belgrade,\\n5.\\nMoostapha, the Tatar courier,\\n12, 23, 24.\\nMysseri, 12, 72, 196, et passim.\\nNablous, 227.\\nNapoleon at Suez, 212, 213.\\nNarguile, 5 n.\\nNazarene guide, the, 105, no,\\n115, 121.\\nNazareth, 94.\\nNicholas, St., 56.\\nOkes, 18.\\nOlympus (Mysian), 34.\\nOlympus in Cyprus, 64.\\nOsman Effendi of Cairo, 174.\\nOur Lady of Bitterness, xxi.\\nPaphos, 64.\\nPilgrims to Jerusalem, 132.\\nPlague contagion, 27, 28, 173 n.\\ntest of, 193.\\nPlague at Cairo, 174; at Con-\\nstantinople, 27 and the\\nmonks of Jerusalem, 101.\\nPropontis, 23.\\nPyramids, the, 198.\\nRed Sea, the, 206, 212.\\nSafet (Holy City), 107 n., 239.\\nSakkara, pyramids at, 200.\\nSamothrace, 40.\\nSataliefsky, General, 256.\\nSatalieh, 257.\\nScamander, 38.\\nSelim (the Arab), 222.\\nSeralin, 1.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "Shereef, 72, 94, 105, 114,\\nI 3 I\\n11 Sir Robert, 93.\\nSmyrna (Izmir), 42 women\\nof, 51, 67.\\nSphynx, the, 202.\\nSt. Simonians and the mystic\\nmother, 83.\\nStamboul, 26.\\nStanhope, Lady Hester, her\\nappearance, 75 her death,\\n84 n.\\nSteel (Methley s servant),\\n4. 23.\\nSuez, Governor of, 215.\\nSuridgees, 14.\\nINDEX OF NAMES 267\\nSweet Lady Anne, 161.\\nTaurus, 263.\\nTennyson quoted, 106.\\nTeskeri, A (certificate), 128,\\n131.\\nThorp, fellow of Trinity, 213.\\nTiberias (Tabarieh), 107, 2^9.\\nTwelve, The, 78.\\nUlysses, voyage of, 56.\\nWarburton, Eliot, 84 n., 203.\\nYashmak, 30 n.", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "CHISWICK PRESS CHARLES WHITTINGHAM AND CO.\\nTOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON.", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "i\\ni", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4033", "width": "2353", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3983", "width": "2326", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "", "height": "4289", "width": "2567", "jp2-path": "eothen00king_0314.jp2"}}