{"1": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3946", "width": "2557", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3724", "width": "2288", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3712", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "1", "height": "3736", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2156", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3724", "width": "2252", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "RIDES AND STUDIES IN THE\\nCANARY ISLANDS.", "height": "3744", "width": "2164", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "BY THE SAME AUTHOR.\\nLETTERS FROM CRETE.\\n{R. Bentley mid Son, 1887.)\\nExceedingly pleasant to read. Athenatim.\\nMr._ Edwardes has the gift of seeing in ordinary men and women\\nand ordinary occurrences more than other people would see in them.\\nBesides this, his impressions of nature are those of a painter only\\nthe suggestiveness of his imagination saves his descriptions from the\\nfault of word-painting and he possesses a considerable vein of\\nhumour. Academy.\\nA very vigorous and even brilliant picturing of the island and\\nits people. Pall Mall Gazette.\\nIt is difficult to imagine what one could want to know about\\nCrete that Mr. Edwardes has left untold. Spectator.\\nWe have seldom read epistles more bright in their gossipping.\\nMore than many books of statistics and diplomatic documents\\nit will help to the true understanding of the Eastern Question.\\nGraphic.\\nThese very interesting letters. St. James s Gazette.\\nWe heartily recommend the book. Guardian.", "height": "3720", "width": "2252", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2156", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "RIDES AND STUDIES\\nIN THE\\nCANARY ISLANDS\\nCHARLES EDWARDES\\nAUTHOR OF LETTERS FROM CRETE, C.\\nILLUSTRATED.\\nT. FISHER UNWIN\\n26, PATERNOSTER SQUARE", "height": "3744", "width": "2168", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "I", "height": "3728", "width": "2252", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "gjLn cvibe fr to\\nBENJAMIN RENSHAW,\\nOF\\nLAGUNA, TENERIFE.", "height": "3740", "width": "2288", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3720", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "INTRODUCTION.\\nThis book is written for the entertainment both of\\nthose who visit the Canary Islands and those who\\ndo not.\\nThe fortunate few who propose to sojourn under\\nthe palms and sunshine of Tenerife may be glad to\\nlearn from it something about the early Canarians,\\nwhose bones alone remain to us. The Guanches,\\nfor example, were a race deserving of a fair niche in\\nthe mausoleum of defunct human types.\\nThese fortunate few may also welcome the book,\\nbecause it assumes to give a description (inadequate\\nenough) of what they hope to see.\\nOn the other hand, the Rides and Studies\\nappeals no less to those discreeter travellers who\\ndo their journeying by the fireside. There is worse\\npastime than climbing a mountain with one s feet on\\nthe fender. And though it is a pleasure to ride,\\nagape with expectation, among strangers in a strange\\nland, it is even pleasanter to sit at ease in one s arm-\\nchair, under our dull homely skies, and amid familiar\\nfaces. This the sage majority who travel only among\\nthe octavos know by heaven-born instinct.", "height": "3744", "width": "2272", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "X\\nINTRODUCTION.\\nIn the building of this little book, I have had help\\nwhich I must gratefully acknowledge.\\nTo my comrade-in-affliction in the island of Palma,\\n(the Rev. C. V. Goddard), I am indebted for most of\\nthe sketches. Like other human creations, they are\\nimperfect; but, for that, circumstances are to\\nblame, rather than their author.\\nThe drawing on page 41 is by Miss Yeatman.\\nFor the photographs here reproduced, I render\\nthanks to Mr. A. Samler-Brown and Senor Baeza.\\nI have read and digested, with more or less effort,\\na quantity of literature about the Canary Islands\\nhistories, epics, rhymes, chronicles, and fables. The\\nusage that I have made of this literature seems\\nto empower me to set the somewhat respon-\\nsible term Studies a pillion to the Rides\\nof my title. But there is in truth nothing very\\nscholastic about the book. And if aught in it appear\\nto savour of erudition or antiquarian exploits, let\\npraise for this be offered at a venture to the memory\\nof the Abbe Viera who, a hundred years ago, un-\\nravelled the tangle of Canarian history.\\nFragments of the Rides and Studies have\\nalready appeared in print in sundry magazines. The\\nproprietors and editors of the Cornhill Magazine,\\nTemple Bar, The Graphic, the St. James s Gazette, and\\nother periodicals are hereby thanked afresh for their\\ncourteous permission to incorporate these fragments\\nin the structure of the book.\\nWolverhampton,\\nNov. 10, 1888.", "height": "3732", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nCHAPTER I.\\nPAGE\\nThe S.S. Niger West Coast merchants Santa Cruz from\\nthe sea The Anaga Hills The Mole Nelson and\\nJuly 25, 1797 The Churches of Santa Cruz The\\nworkhouse Street architecture and the Postigos\\nThe Alaineda Emigration Santa Cruz a Spanish\\nfoundation Statuary in the Plaza The defects of a\\ncosmopolitan seaport 1\\nCHAPTER II.\\nThe Grand Hotel and Sanatorium of Orotava Commercial\\ndecay of the islands\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An early ride Roads and road-\\nside scenes The ungallant driver Laguna The\\nnorth side of Tenerife Matanza Bencomo, the King\\nof Taoro Victoria The Valley of Orotava and Hum-\\nboldt s praise of it The Peak 16\\nCHAPTER III.\\nSweet idling in Puerto Trivial excitements of a health\\nresort Puerto as it is and as it was The old wine", "height": "3740", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "xii CONTENTS.\\nPAGE\\ntrade Irish monuments in the Church Puerto s har-\\nbour La Paz A Guanche sepulchre Guanche skulls\\nA southern villa The cochineal insect Sugar, to-\\nbacco, and wine The ruin of 1826 .28\\nCHAPTER IV.\\nVarious conjectural origins of the name, people, and land of\\nthe Canary Islands The island of San Borondon\\nThe legendary first inhabitants The Canaries and the\\nElysian Fields identical 55\\nCHAPTER V.\\nTacoronte Its museum and miraculous crucifix The\\nGuanches Their mummies and method of embalming\\nTheir polity Coronations Ceremony of ennobling\\nReligion The vestal virgins of Grand Canary\\nEducation Morals Trial by smoke Punishment of\\ncrime Dress General character Food The Palma\\nmode of dying Dwellings and furniture Inscription\\nof Belmaco Strength and agility Reflections 67\\nCHAPTER VI.\\nThe Gardens of Acclimatization Eccentric trees and\\nshrubs The dragon tree Orotava Villa The private\\ngardens of the Villa The Castillo monument The\\nVilla Church de la Concepcion\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Dominican nuns\\nand the Jesuit fathers Periodical eruptions of Teide\\nPhilosophy of life in the Villa 86\\nCHAPTER VII.\\nA tour round Tenerife The boys and the bell-tower The\\nconfiguration of Tenerife Barrancos Zones of tern-", "height": "3724", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. xiii\\nPAGE\\nperature Realejo, Upper and Lower Bencomo and\\nRealejo The Church of Rambla I cod The dragon\\ntree\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The sad citizen Garachico The story of 1706\\nThe drunken prisoner Sunset on the Peak Play-\\ning the pedagogue .104\\nCHAPTER VIII.\\nA trait of Icod character A fair morning Pumice plains\\nand lava beds Gomera On the Cahadas A vol-\\ncaneta The Peak at its toilette Palm Sunday service\\n\u00e2\u0080\u0094Garachico from above A valley bivouac Santiago\\nA severe mountain Chia\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Guia Excitement in\\nGuia Hospitality of Guia For and against country\\nlife 129\\nCHAPTER IX.\\nThe hot south side of Tenerife The Euphorbia Josd s\\nbragging Adeje Its Casa fuerte Its population\\nAscent to Chasna Chasna of the clouds The doctor\\nand his daughter A morning outlook Flower cus-\\ntoms The Eve of St. John Granadilla Its oranges\\nA sturdy gentleman Granadilla s church, club, and\\ntobacco factories Rio Barrancos and cave dwellings\\nFlies Arico The ex-dockman Fast life in Arico 146\\nCHAPTER X.\\nA dilemma Spanish generosity The Barranco de Herque\\nFasnea The genial householder A downpour\\nEscobonal and the Carretara View of Guimar The\\nprocession of Holy Thursday Fanaticism Candelaria\\nRude burial The camel Santa Cruz Strategy\\nLaguna Orotava 167", "height": "3744", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "XIV\\nCONTENTS.\\nCHAPTER XI. PAGE\\nEaster morning A Guanche festival Bencomo The city\\nof Laguna\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Its history The romance of Dacil and\\nCastillo\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The pestilence of Laguna Ecclesiastical\\nappropriations Public festivities and mourning The\\nmiraculous sweat Some governors of the Canaries\\nBishops, and Murga s injunctions The expulsion of\\nthe Jesuits Laguna as it is 184\\nCHAPTER XII.\\nThe Laguna Churches Social difficulties Scheme for the\\nemancipation of women A working men s club\\nEcclesiastical treasures The library The Professor\\nand his pamphlet Superstitions The burning of\\nJudas Iscariot A diocese without a head 200\\nCHAPTER XIII.\\nThe Anaga Hills The woods of Mercedes A dainty\\ngreensward The Anaga edges and abysses The\\nCruz del Carmen The Cruz de Afur Taganana\\nwoods and village The Cura A rustic beauty A\\nGuanche idyl El Roque de las Animas The monk\\nand the nuns Bencomo and Zebensin Tenerifah\\neconomics Return up the Vuelta 210\\nCHAPTER XIV.\\nTraditions about the Peak First account of an ascent\\nPreparations for the climb Our start Glorious day\\nIn the clouds Above the clouds El Pico de Teide\\nStages of the ascent The Retama Plain Obsolete", "height": "3740", "width": "2232", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. xv\\nPAGE\\nhardships At the foot of the pyramid The Estancia\\nBed-making and eating Sunset A restless night\\nOn by moonlight An unexpected meeting The\\nRambleta Sunrise On the summit In the crater\\nHot and cold Sulphur men\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The ice cave The\\ndescent 224\\nCHAPTER XV.\\nPalma from Tenerife The weekly correo The misery\\nof it A fair night at sea Topography of Palma\\nOrigin of its name Guayanfanta Conquest of Palma\\nThe brave king of the Caldera Alonso de Lugo s\\nmean shift Later history of Palma Tenerife named\\nby the people of Palma The Bishop and the convent\\ncake Independence of Palma The Vandewalle\\nfamily, past and present 261\\nCHAPTER XVI.\\nSanta Cruz of Palma A warm town The mole Steep\\nstreets Palma women Don Pedro and his wife\\nPalma fashions Morning routine The craterette of\\nSanta Cruz Architecture and industries of Santa Cruz\\nThe Church of San Salvador Altar machinery\\nOur Lady of the Snows The cockpit A series of\\nfights Palma s dependence on England Local wines\\nand tobacco Weevils Locusts Legend of the Peak\\nof Tenerife and the Caldera of Palma 270\\nCHAPTER XVII.\\nPreparations for a tour round Palma Barranco de Galga\\nA red land San Andre s\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Los Sauces Its merry mill\\nBarrancos de Herradura Gallegos and Peleos\\nAwful roads A beautiful country We lose our way\\nThe timid shepherd boys A fairy fog The kindly", "height": "3744", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nPAGE\\nproprietress and her hospitality Tricias Its elevation\\nPrimitive quarters A mill by cow-power More\\nbarrancos Bad water Candelaria Its ancient church\\nA gracious noonday rest On the Caldera edge In-\\ndescribable panorama The Caldera Its colours and\\nimmensity The Pico de Bejanao Volcanoes and lava\\nflows 290\\nCHAPTER XVIII.\\nLos Llanos 3 Its fenda Curious visitors and fellow\\nguests Argual Paso and the Alcalde Paso s\\nschool The Caldera by the Barranco Under the\\nPico de los Muchachos The Caldera bed The Cum-\\nbrecita Pass Steep crags Clouds brewing in the\\nCaldera The old and the new road over the Cordillera\\nThe volcano of Tocade We desert Don Pedro A\\ncruel voyage from Palma 310\\nCHAPTER XIX.\\nHistorical summary Bethencourt and his successors Dis-\\nputes about the Canaries between Spain and Portugal\\nGenerous native princes Rejon and the conquest of\\nGrand Canary Los Palmas Ascension Day in the\\ncathedral Bones and copes Paintings The hospital\\nThe English sailor among the Spaniards Theatre\\nand markets\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Spanish justice The harbour\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Cloudy\\nweather The evening promenade A funeral and\\nburial 325\\nCHAPTER XX.\\nCharacteristics of Grand Canary The noisy sleeper A\\nsudden idea Pancho and the Andalusian The Cal-", "height": "3744", "width": "2240", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS. xvii\\nPAGE\\ndera de Vandama Tafira Atalaya Probable pedi-\\ngree of the dwellers in Atalaya Santa Brigida San\\nMateo Pancho s relations The priest and his as-\\nsistants Across country Guimar A pretty prospect\\nTelde Troglodytes and aristocrats A brisk ride in\\nthe dark\u00e2\u0080\u0094 S.S. Opobo\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The last of the Peak 349\\nAPPENDIX 363", "height": "3744", "width": "2272", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3732", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "LIST 1 OF ILLUSTRATIONS.\\nPAGE\\nOLD CONVENT AND CHURCH TOWER IN SANTA CRUZ\\nOF palm A Frontispiece\\nMAP OF TENERIFE 7\\nA WATER CARRIER 19\\nTHE PEAK: FROM A ROOF IN PUERTO 30\\nA PICTURE IN PUERTO 34\\nA BUSY DAY IN PUERTO 38\\nVIEW FROM A GARDEN NEAR HUMBOLDT S VILLA 41\\nA GUANCHE SEPULCHRE 45\\nAN ENGLISH RESIDENCE BY PUERTO 4 8\\nA VILLA OF TENERIFE 5 2\\nTHE ISLAND OF SAN BORONDON 64\\nFACSIMILES OF THE INSCRIPTIONS OVER THE CAVE OF\\nBELMACO, IN THE ISLAND OF PALMA 82\\nSCENE ON THE ROAD TO THE VILLA 87\\nA DRAGON TREE 9 2\\nTHE VILLA IOI\\nLOOKING WEST FROM PUERTO I08", "height": "3744", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "xx LIST OF ILL USTRA TIONS.\\nPAGE\\nBALCONY IN SAN JUAN DE LA RAMBLA Il6\\nICOD AND THE PEAK 126\\nTHE PEAK IN MARCH: FROM ABOVE ICOD 1 36\\nA CLUMP OF EUPHORBIA 148\\nA TENERIFAN IN HIS MANTA I5 2\\nA LAGUNA PORTAL 198\\nA GOATHERD OF TENERIFE 229\\nA BEGGAR OF TENERIFE 234\\nTHE PEAK FROM PUERTO SHOWING THE TIGAYGA\\nRIDGE... 237\\nOUTLINE OF CHAHORA, AS SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF\\nTHE PEAK 260\\nMAP OF PALMA 271\\nMAP OF GRAND CANARY 333", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "RIDES AND STUDIES IN THE\\nCANARY ISLANDS.\\nCHAPTER I.\\nThe S.S. Niger West Coast merchants Santa Cruz from the\\nsea The Anaga Hills The Mole Nelson and July 25,\\n1 797 The churches of Santa Cruz The workhouse Street\\narchitecture and the Postigos The Alameda Emi-\\ngration Santa Cruz a Spanish foundation Statuary in the\\nPlaza The defects of a cosmopolitan seaport.\\nOur ship, the Niger, of the African Steamship\\nCompany, dropped anchor off Santa Cruz on the\\nmorning of Sunday, the 20th March. So many of\\nour country folk had come on board at the last\\nmoment, in a scamper from the east winds and sleet\\nof dear old England, that throughout the voyage\\nthe vessel had carried a freight of human flesh much\\nbeyond her capacity. Some of us had in conse-\\nquence been put, aft like stowaways. The Bay of\\nBiscay had drenched us by bucketfuls in our nightly\\nstumble and slide down the wet decks to these sad\\nquarters, and the pitching was as if we had been in\\na swing at the mercy of lusty arms. At Madeira\\n2", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "2\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncertain pale invalids and knickerbockered tourists\\nenlarged our circle, so that for the final two days of\\nthe eight from Liverpool to Tenerife people slept\\non the dining tables and under them, like the dregs\\nof a debauch. For the Steamship Company this\\nwas admirable, but for us who were not interested\\nin its dividends it was not so pleasant. Besides, the\\nprovisions had begun to fall off there was not\\nenough marmalade for the tenth day. Taking these\\nvarious circumstances into account, it was joy to\\nknow that the voyage was at an end. The twen-\\ntieth of March is a day on which, in the Catholic\\ncalendar, souls are released from the pains of Purga-\\ntory. It is also the first day of Spring, according to\\nSpanish reckoning. Thus our landing on Spanish\\nand Catholic soil was doubly auspicious.\\nWe parted with the half-dozen passengers whom\\nwe left on the Niger to proceed to Sierra Leone and\\nthe West Coast, much as one might part with an\\nexplorer bound for the North Pole. Over brandies\\nand sodas these heroes of commerce had told us of\\nthe heat, ennui, and flavour of doom that marked\\ntheir life at the lonely trading stations in the\\nmangrove swamps of the wide river mouths. King\\nChance rules in Benin during the wet season as\\ngrimly as when he held court in Paris, with\\nRobespierre for his prime puppet.\\nThese merchants were married. Their wives\\nlived in England, and made them welcome for a\\ncouple of months every alternate year. One gentle-\\nman, bolder or more pitiless than the rest, was, this\\ntrip, accompanied by his wife it was an experiment.", "height": "3736", "width": "2264", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "SANTA CRUZ.\\n3\\nSix weeks after- I left the Niger her death was in\\nthe papers.\\nIs it not ghastly Black men and women, gold\\ndust, elephants teeth, leopard skins, blue skies,\\npalm-trees, and freedom from the restraints of con-\\nvention, cannot give charm to these cruel shores,\\nwhich force white men to solace themselves with\\nthe old hectic and deluding cordial, Let us eat,\\ndrink, and be merry for to-morrow we die\\nFrom the water Santa Cruz has the gay air of a\\nLevantine city. Its bulk of white houses with flat\\nroofs, the two dark campaniles of its principal\\nchurches, the pale pink or ochre bodies and yet\\nbrighter turrets of mercantile and municipal buildings,\\nthe flutter of flags, and the heavy curl of surf on its\\nsandy beach, give it a lively look. But the town is\\nnothing to its surroundings. Imagine a mass of\\npointed and serrated mountains hedging it close on\\none side, and the long backbone of Tenerife, springing\\nbehind the town from these chaotic hills, and rising\\ngradually in the opposite direction until, thirty miles\\naway, it culminates in the Peak itself, 12,180 feet\\nabove the sea you may then have an idea of the mere\\nland frame of Santa Cruz.\\nThe Anaga hills, near our anchorage, drop into\\nthe sea by stern red precipices. Their summits,\\nwinningly fantastic, two and three thousand feet\\nhigh, are crested with laurels and heaths, the\\nleafage of which is wonderfully clear against the blue\\nbackground of sky. For the rest, there are many\\npalm trees among the houses of the city, and beyond\\nit, where the land swells to the watershed, are fields", "height": "3732", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "4\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nof barley, and patches of the cochineal cactus.\\nThese last, decked in their white rags, are curiously\\nsuggestive of extensive laundry grounds.\\nOne word, however, about the Peak. In Santa\\nCruz it is little more than a tradition. The but-\\ntresses of the Canadas, or old crater, eight or nine\\nthousand feet from the level, and upon which the\\nPeak proper is built as a precise pyramid, stand like\\na distant wall between the capital and the mountain\\ntop. Thanks to this foreshortening, only enlight-\\nened eyes can identify a tiny purple pimple, peering\\nover the great wall, as the Teide long believed to be\\nthe highest elevation in the world.\\nAfter eight days at sea, some of us were hasty in\\nour efforts to land on Tenerife. But the health\\nofficer had first to certify that we were bringing no\\ninfectious disease to this little island which has\\nsuffered so many scourges of various kinds since it\\ncame into civilised history. Patience therefore,\\nwas the word. Indeed, this was a plea to which\\nwe soon got habituated. If the dinner came not for\\nan hour or two after it was ordered, Patience,\\nsenor, murmured the landlord. If the horse I had\\nengaged for a week s riding tour appeared as an\\nanimated sheaf of bones, the livery man remarked\\nthat with patience the beast would improve in\\nlooks. If, in a clumsy attempt to eat a prickly pear,\\nI ran four or five spines into my thumb, and groaned\\nwhile trying to extract them, a swarthy native was\\nsure to be near to assure me that with patience\\nthe wound would fester comfortably and allow the\\nvenomous points to expel themselves. And when", "height": "3740", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "NELSON AND SANTA CRUZ.\\n5\\nthe southern husband, in a rare moment of petulance,\\ncomplains of the screaming of his babe, ten to one\\nthe mother will whisper Patience, and remind the\\nfather that by and by the squaller will become a man.\\nAbout three hundred years ago, when the popula-\\nlation of Santa Cruz was under a thousand, the\\ninhabitants began to build a mole for the protection\\nof their harbour. This mole is still unfinished. A\\nlong line of gigantic cubes of concrete are waiting to\\nbe hurled pell-mell into the sea for the due continu-\\nance of the work but it is impossible to say how\\nmany years they have thus been waiting, or when\\nthe mole will be completed. Patience however.\\nThis thick fragment of a pier, with the lighthouse\\nupon it, has strong interest for an Englishman. It\\nwas while he was standing on it during the night of\\nthe 24th July, 1797, that a brilliant shot from a\\nfield-piece under the alameda, about two hundred\\nyards distant, carried off Nelson s right arm, killed\\nBowen, the captain of the Terpsichore, wounded the\\ncaptain of the Seahorse and two seconds in command,\\nand killed a score of others. We had already cap-\\ntured the mole, but had been forced to abandon it.\\nIt was doubtful if Trowbridge and his thousand men\\nhad succeeded in their endeavour to row upon the\\nshore, march into the town, and bring the Governor-\\nGeneral to a surrender. In this strait Nelson him-\\nself came into the strife, just in time for the cannon\\nshot which, in the words of the Spanish rhymer\\nMate a Bowen atrevido,\\nA Nelson le quite nn brazo,\\nA veinte y dos de un balazo\\nMuertos, al ingles vencido,\\n..liHik", "height": "3740", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThe citizens of Santa Cruz are proud of the\\nmemory of this battle, and with good reason.\\nNelson was not accustomed to be beaten. His tone\\nin demanding the Philippine treasure-ship, Principe\\ndc Asturias, which was the ostensible cause of his\\ncoming to Tenerife, was, therefore, high-handed,\\nnot to say insolent. Trowbridge, when he had\\nsafely got through the surf in the teeth of the shore\\nguns, and brought his small body of men into the\\nheart of the city, was even more peremptory than\\nNelson. His force had got divided, so that he found\\nhimself in the Plaza, face to face with the castle and\\nits guns, with only about 340 men around him.\\nNelson s co-operation had failed. The rest of his\\ntroops were isolated elsewhere in the city. Never-\\ntheless, says the Spanish historian, in spite of this\\nfalse position, Trowbridge had the hardihood to send\\na sergeant to the castle, demanding its surrender, and\\nthreatening else to burn the town. Later, when\\nthe reunited British force had taken shelter in the\\nconvent of San Domingo, and Nelson s second\\nattempt to relieve him had been defeated, Trow-\\nbridge altered his tone. He sent to the Spanish\\ngeneral to say that he did not wish to injure the\\ntown, but that he was determined to have the bul-\\nlion of the Manila ship. Such persistence, in such\\na situation, was heroic. But when the Governor,\\nin reply, threatened at once to besiege the convent,\\nand to give no quarter, our sturdy Trowbridge re-\\nturned to his right senses. A flag of truce ended\\nthe engagement. The 675 survivors of the original\\n1,000 assailants marched with all honours of war", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "NELSON S LETTER. 7\\nthrough the Plaza, between the French and Spanish\\nsoldiery of the defence, and embarked for their ships.\\nIt is worth mention that the victors, as courteous\\nafter as they were brave and intelligent during the\\nbattle, gave our men a breakfast before allowing\\nthem to re-embark. 1\\nII a I leer Boutall sc\\nTenerife Extreme dimensions, 60 miles by 30.\\n1 Nelson s letter to the Governor shows how he appreciated\\ntins civility\\nTheseus,////)/ 26, 1797.\\nSir, I cannot quit this island without thanking your Ex-\\ncellency most sincerely for your extreme kindness to me, for\\nyour humanity in regard to our dead and wounded in your\\npower and under your care, and for your generosity towards all", "height": "3744", "width": "2380", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "3\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThe total number of men engaged in the defence of\\nSanta Cruz was only 1,669. Trowbridge estimated\\nthem at 8,000, and English historians have held to\\nhis estimate. But he did not know that, by a trick of\\nwar, the same troops were being marched backwards\\nand forwards, like pantomime dummies, to make an\\neffective show.\\nIt is the fashion with visitors to decry Santa Cruz.\\nThey use it as a stepping-stone to the other side of the\\nisland, and lament when they are obliged to return\\nto it. This is hard on the town, which is at least\\nworth a leisurely inspection. Its two large churches\\nare full of the heavy gilded carving and spiral\\nwooden pillars of which the Spaniards are so fond.\\nTheir canvasses, too, are characteristic. Either the\\nfigures portrayed are grotesquely out of drawing, or\\nthe colours have vanished. The subject of Purgatory,\\nwith the elect presided over by Popes and Jesuits,\\nis treated as coarsely in Santa Cruz as in every\\nlittle village church throughout the islands. When\\none has looked on Nelson s flags, in a chapel of the\\ncathedral, and admired the ingenious carved work of\\na certain Spaniard who died in 1743, leaving this as\\nhis monument, the real interest of the building is\\nexhausted. The flags are in elongated cases, under\\nlock and key, and hung on the wall high out of\\nreach. This was deemed essential after the rude\\nwho are disembarked. I will not fail to inform my sovereign\\nof this, and I look forward to an opportunity when I may\\npersonally assure your Excellency how much I am your Ex-\\ncellency s most obedient and humble servant,\\nHoratio Nelson.", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "THE WORKHOUSE.\\n9\\ntheft of them, once upon a time, by a British mid-\\nshipman, who thought his and his country s honour\\ndepended on their recovery.\\nThe workhouse of Santa Cruz seemed to me\\nalmost an ideal place for the long death of old age.\\nIt was far from depressing. The good sister who\\nled me through its airy, clean, whitewashed corri-\\ndors and wards laughed cheerfully all the while. I\\nfound fifty well-knit boys busy with slates and\\npencils and problems of long division. They rose\\nto their feet with pleased alacrity when we appeared,\\nand enjoyed the diversion. From the boys we went\\nto the girls. They were of ages from eight or nine\\nto fifteen, and some of them gave promise of great\\nbeauty. Dark eyes that go to the heart are common\\nin Spain; but here, among these well-bred orphaned\\ngirls, were also complexions worthy of England, as\\nwell as eyes lucid with sweet expression. The girls\\nwere variously employed some embroidering, some\\ncutting paper patterns for the decoration of church\\nstatuary, or devising bouquets of paper roses and\\ngeraniums, for use in this land teeming with natural\\nflowers. In this democratic establishment there was\\nwork for all who could work. Even the crones, poor\\nugly old creatures, found pastime in picking corn\\nfrom a mammoth heap in the midst of their apart-\\nment, and they chattered vociferously over their\\nlabour. For the men there was bootmaking, carpen-\\ntering, tailoring, c. None were degraded to the\\ntask, fit only for Bridewells, of meddling with oakum.\\nWe discovered seven little urchins making their\\nmidday meal, in truly national style, round one big", "height": "3744", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "IO\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nbowl of gofio. They paused with uplifted spoons at the\\nsight of us, but soon resumed their repast. Thus,\\ndown the scale, we arrived at the nursery, where a\\ncouple of young mothers began to tidy their babes,\\nbut a few weeks old, for our entertainment. That\\none is blacker than it ought to be, remarked the\\nsister, with a shake of the head, to one of the\\nmothers. But we did not tarry to listen to the\\nvoluble explanations which the girl offered on behalf\\nof the child and its parentage. Lastly, we went\\ninto the patio or inner courtyard of the building a\\ngarden full of flowers, with palms, bananas, and\\norange trees interlaced between the sky and the\\nearth. Here the veterans of the workhouse strolled\\nand sunned themselves, free from anxiety. I daresay\\nthe southern sun has something to do with it but\\nthe contrast between this workhouse in a colony of\\nSpain, and the prison-houses to which in England\\nour unfortunate paupers are consigned, was startling.\\nThe streets of Santa Cruz, though not elegant,\\nare by their narrowness adapted for the shade one\\nsighs for under a tropical sun. They are uneven\\nand cobbled, and to drive through them is torture.\\nThe houses are lofty, with carven balconies, doors,\\nand window shutters, painted green, with no small\\ndegree of individuality. Some of the older buildings\\non the Marina are palatial in their woodwork\\nespecially the consular houses.. From the patio of\\npalms and orange and lemon trees, with a fountain\\nin their midst, one looks up broad heavy staircases\\nwith twisted banisters at dainty supports with\\nelaborate capitals and embossed roofs that would", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE.\\n1 1\\nhave done credit to Nuremberg in its best days.\\nPiazzi Smyth reproaches the Canarians because\\ntheir liliputian panelling is of American deal,\\ninstead of the tougher olive or walnut wood. Of\\ncourse the labour of carving olive timber as they\\nhave carved the deal would have been greater but\\nthe work ought surely to be judged only according\\nto its pretensions. It assumes to be ornamental,\\nand it is ornamental. It does not assume to be high\\nart, and v therefore it merits no blame because it is\\nnot high art.\\nThese wooden window shutters play an important\\npart in the domestic life of the Canarians. They\\nkeep the house cool by the exclusion of light and\\nheat but they also bring the ladies of the house\\ninto immediate though delicate association with their\\nfriends and acquaintance outside. The shutters are\\ninvariably pierced at the base by a small movable\\ntrap which goes outwards on hinges and with this\\npostigo pressed open more or less wide by their\\nheads, the women pass hours of the day looking\\nforth into the street, their powdered cheeks level\\nwith the cheeks of the pedestrian. At first it is a\\nlittle embarrassing to walk down one of these long,\\nclose, empty streets between a file of faces, the black\\neyes of which are merciless and unswerving in their\\nconcentrated scrutiny. But, after a time, one per-\\nceives that it is a gracious custom whereby a stranger\\nmay at small cost see the pretty faces of the town in\\nvery agreeable contiguity, and contrast the one with\\nthe other as easily as if they were photographs in a\\nshop window.", "height": "3744", "width": "2288", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "12\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThe alameda (from alamo, a poplar the tree\\nfavoured in the Peninsular for these public places) of\\nSanta Cruz is a remarkable little tract of forestry in\\nthe middle of the town. Here the botanist may\\ntry his erudition with almost certain discomfiture.\\nAmong date palms and royal palms he will find\\nlaurels as tall as a house, and many a plant indi-\\ngenous to the tropics, but quite at home* in this dry,\\nwarm air, which knows hardly anything of a tem-\\nperature below 50 Fahrenheit. On the hottest of\\ndays one may breathe at ease under this thick\\nfoliage, or even indulge in a paddle in the fountains\\nof the alameda, like a certain maid whom I caught\\nknee-deep in the water, whiffing a cigarette.\\nThe familiarity gained by the Canarians with such\\ntropical vegetation as they see in the alamedas must\\nin some measure make the expatriation that is so\\ncommon here less irksome and harsh. We landed\\non the mole at a time when several score of agricul-\\nturists and their families were embarking on an\\nemigrant ship bound for Venezuela. The mother\\ncountry acts wisely in giving her colonists every\\nfacility for dispersion over her own colonies. The\\nadvantages of Porto Rico, Venezuela, and Cuba,\\nwith assisted passages and so forth, are broadly\\nplacarded in Tenerife and yearly the deportation\\nfrom the Canaries is large. People marry so young\\nhere, and the women are so prolific, that, considering\\nthe limited area of the archipelago (about 3,300\\nsquare miles), there is no resource but emigration.\\nPrior to the invasion of Spain, the old inhabitants\\nwere posed with the same difficulty. In Lanzarote,", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "GUANCHE NOMENCLATURE.\\nfor example, a law was passed, sentencing to death\\nall children of a family except the first-born. But\\nthis uncommon regulation was soon afterwards ren-\\ndered unnecessary by a pestilence which almost\\ndepopulated the island. It may not be generally\\nknown that the first civilizers of Florida were\\nCanarians, and the city of St. Augustine in that\\nstate, which claims to be the oldest European settle-\\nment of the United States, was founded in the six-\\nteenth century by a contingent of seventy families\\nfrom Santa Cruz.\\nBut it is early to begin sketching the past history\\nof the Canaries. This subject is so gigantic in pro-\\nportion to the smallness of the islands and their\\ndistance from the great centres of civilization in past\\nages, that it demands very careful and precise\\nboiling down to the degree at which it may\\ninterest and adequately instruct without being tedious\\nor pedantic.\\nEnough if for the present I remind my readers\\nthat Santa Cruz is a Spanish foundation in the midst\\nof the other towns and villages which mostly existed\\nwhen the Guanches held Tenerife. Orotava, Guimar,\\nTeide, Icod, Taganana are all immediate derivations\\nfrom the dead Guanche tongue. Santa Cruz, on the\\nother hand, merely marks the place where Alonso de\\nLugo, the conqueror of the island, first set foot in\\nTenerife, holding a great cross of wood in his arms.\\nLike other disseminators of European customs\\namong peoples who are so far barbarians that they\\nhave not yet succeeded in discovering gunpowder and\\nthe art of printing, De Lugo was, above all things,", "height": "3744", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nbent on Christianizing the Guanches. And so the\\ncross was set*in the ground, the chaplains said mass\\nin the open air, surrounded by the thousand grim\\nwarriors in armour, who had come from slaying the\\nMoors in Granada to a new kind of blood-shedding,\\nand the place was christened Santa Cruz, and\\nannexed to the domains of their Majesties of Spain.\\nIn the Plaza of Santa Cruz is a stately marble\\nobelisk which in its own way is pathetic. In the\\ncentre of it is a representation of the Virgin of\\nCandelaria, a village on the southern coast of Ten-\\nerife and this figure is flanked by four marble\\nsurvivals of the Guanche kings, clad in skins, and\\nbearing their royal sceptre the thigh-bone of Tinerfe,\\nthat Homeric and legendary first monarch of the\\nwhole island. I hope I may be able to show that\\nthe Guanches, who have been exterminated, were a\\npeople of many virtues and much nobility. As for\\nthe Virgin of Candelaria, that potent legend, with\\nall its influence over the minds of many generations\\nof island Catholics, may tell its own tale in due\\ncourse.\\nBut it is now time to leave Santa Cruz. It is\\na city of meagre entertainment after all, and of\\nvery mixed blood. Ships of many nations call here\\nweek by week, and the sight of tipsy tars and brawl-\\ning travellers does not work in the cause of virtue\\nupon the youth of cosmopolitan seaports like this.\\nIn back streets I was confronted with staring sign-\\nboards inviting the stranger, in bad English, to enter,\\ndrink rum, and have a good time. There are two\\nhotels, at least, where English is nearly as much the", "height": "3736", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "YOUNG BLOODS.\\n15\\nmother tongue as Spanish and each advertises its\\nrivalry to the other by conjuring me to believe that\\nit is the better, and that nowhere else in the town is\\nEnglish spoken. The Anglo-mania has touched\\nSanta Cruz. Pale ale in the familiar bottles is an\\narticle of common use here. And oh, horribile dictu\\nI cannot go into my hotel without passing two or\\nthree Spanish young men in large check coats and\\ntrousers, an attitude of supreme impertinence, their\\nhats cocked on one side, and the crook of their\\nwalking canes resting on their molars. These young\\ngentlemen think it chic to behave as they imagine\\nthe English behave and so they idle away the hours\\nin this way, and ogle everything female that comes\\nunder their gaze.", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER II.\\nThe Grand Hotel and Sanatorium of Orotava Commercial\\ndecay of the islands\u00e2\u0080\u0094 An early ride Roads and roadside\\nscenes The ungallant driver\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Laguna The north side\\nof Tenerife Matanza Bencomo, the King of Taoro\\nVictoria The Valley of Orotava, and Humboldt s praise\\nof it\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The Peak.\\nSince the opening of the English Sanatorium on the\\nnorthern side of the island, English faces are com-\\nmon objects along the road which joins Orotava and\\nSanta Cruz. Indeed, the islanders think their for-\\ntunes are to be made by the exodus hither year after\\nyear of an increasing number of strangers with their\\npockets full of money. A few years ago the mere\\nname of invalid made a Spaniard of Tenerife\\nshiver and turn away. He imagined that lung\\ndisease, for instance, was contagious so that, how-\\never poor he might be, he would not dream of letting\\nan empty house to a person affected with phthisis.\\nThe same reason makes it customary to hide the\\nfact when a native is in a decline.\\nI do not know how the change has been wrought,\\nbut wrought it has been. For a long time European\\nphysicians have praised the air of the Canaries as\\ncurative, ne plus ultra,) for certain maladies* Its dry*", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "BAD TRADE.\\n17\\nness is extraordinary. The average annual rainfall\\nis under fifteen inches. The average winter tem-\\nperature on the coast is 63*8\u00c2\u00b0. It was whispered\\nthat if only some millionaire could get from the\\nSpanish Government a concession of the island of\\nTenerife, he might, by judicious outlay, turn it into\\na health ground for Europe and the West Coast of\\nAfrica, such as the world would be grateful for. But\\nthe very extravagance of such a reputation seems\\nto have been fatal to its acceptance. Besides, of\\nwhat use was this admirable climate to the ordinary\\nhealth-seeker if there were no hotels to offer him the\\ncomforts on which, equally with the climate, his\\nhealth depended In a common wayside vcnta\\nhe might get a truckle-bed, an oily diet of little\\nvariety, and the companionship of innumerable\\nfleas but, not unwisely, he preferred to leave\\nTenerife to itself rather than accept these certain\\nevils as a part of his cure.\\nA year or two ago, however, a company of Spanish\\nnobility and others put their heads together. Bad times\\nhad come upon Tenerife, no less than upon England.\\nCochineal, of which, in i860, more than a million\\npounds weight had gone from the islands to Europe,\\nat a price of about a dollar a pound, had fallen before\\nthe modern invention of aniline dyes. The demand\\nhad become trifling, and the price had diminished to\\na quarter of a dollar. It was a severe blow to culti-\\nvators, many of whom at once gave up all hopes of\\nthe affluence they had expected. Later, the wines,\\nwhich of old, before the ravage of the oidium disease,\\nhad produced the most excellent Malvasia, were\\n3", "height": "3720", "width": "2344", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "iS\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nstudied with renewed interest. Tobacco also was\\nplanted largely where the cochineal cactus had\\nformerly held the ground. By these means, pros-\\nperity might be coaxed back to the islands, which no\\nlonger merited the name of Fortunate. Yet\\nanother opening* for capitalists was suggested. Why\\nshould not Tenerife bid for a few of the thousands\\nwho annually go from the north to the south, in terror\\nof the winter Why, indeed, with such claims as\\nhers\\nIt has eventuated in the Orotava Grand Hotel\\nSanatorium and health resort a speculation in the\\ninterest of humanity, for the profit of the various\\nmarquises and counts who have subscribed the\\ncapital for its institution. Thanks to the Sanatorium,\\nthe people in the north-east of Tenerife are already\\nfamiliarized with the sight of Englishmen. They\\nsee them by carriage-loads, or galloping themselves\\ninto health, pursued by swarms of flies. Their\\nenergy is a marvel to them. Their evident wealth\\nis an endless subject of conversation and envy to\\nthem. But the wisest and best-cultured of them\\nare beginning to fear that in course of time they may\\nhave to pray for deliverance from them, even as they\\nseek deliverance from the locusts when a south-east\\nwind brings a ravening scourge of them upon the\\nland.\\nI took the early mail coach from Santa Cruz\\nto Orotava, and sat by its coarse but hearty driver.\\nThe tender colour of the Oriental neighbourhood of\\nthe capital soon after dawn, the placid ocean, with\\nthe outline of Grand Canary, forty-five miles distant,", "height": "3740", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "A f WINDING HIGHWA Y.\\n19\\nand the warm fresh air, were alike exhilarating. But\\nthe Anaga hills are the supreme beauty of Santa\\nCruz. Their greenery on this spring morning was\\ndelicious, and their tortured summits, connected one\\nwith another by narrow edges that piqued the fancy,\\nmade my feet itch to be upon them.\\nThe distance from Santa Cruz to Orotava is about\\ntwenty-five miles. In the first five miles we rise\\nnearly 2,000 feet, to the ancient capital of Tenerife,\\nthe city of Laguna. Never was there a more erratic\\nroad. We take long sweeping curves to the right,\\nand then corresponding curves to the left. Of course\\nthis is for the good of the horses but here methinks\\nthe authorities have exceeded discretion. As en-\\ngineering work, however, these roads of the first\\nclass in the Canaries are beyond praise. The\\nRomans could not have made them better. But at\\npresent Tenerife is girdled hardly\\nmore than a third by the first\\nclass roads. The remaining\\ntracks are infamous and years\\nwill elapse before the tourist can\\norder his carriage to drive round\\nthe Peak as if it were the Acro-\\npolis of Athens.\\nThe scenes on the road outside\\nSanta Cruz are lively and in-\\nteresting. We meet files of\\nwomen of the most robust build,\\ntripping lightly down the incline,\\nwith eggs, poultry, vegetables, and fruit on their\\nheads* They move with their arms akimbo, laugh-", "height": "3736", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "120\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ning and joking, so that their fine, white teeth are\\nfor ever flashing across their dusky skins. There\\nare also mules and mule-carts laden with barrels of\\nwine of country pressing, or sacks of charcoal, cases\\nof bananas for shipment to England, and the like.\\nHere and there we pass a district customs house.\\nThe Canaries are a free port for strangers, but, in-\\nternally, there is a universal octroi. Thus, for every\\nfowl taken into Santa Cruz, the market woman pays\\nabout 2;jd., and the goatherd who drives his flock\\nfrom door to door, milking them according to the\\ndemand, pays a little more than a halfpenny a day\\nfor every goat thus employed.\\nAs I have said, the coachman was a rough fellow.\\nHe and I got to be good friends ere I left the island\\nbut his conduct towards his countrywomen was so\\nunchivalrous on this March morning, that I did not\\nat first think well of him. He flicked at their stout\\nbrown calves with his long whip, and made some of\\nthem dance their eggs into jeopardy. He did it all\\nin the merriest humour, however, and when his com-\\npliments were of the grossest they were met with\\nunvarying smiles or amiable retorts. But soon the\\nhorses exacted his attention in our pull up to the\\nlevel of Laguna. Go on, little boy On, white\\nhorse On post Thus he stimulated his\\nragged steeds to do their best. The bony animals\\nwere tied to our old green coach with bits of rope that\\nthreatened momentarily to break but they brought\\nus over our difficulties in praiseworthy style.\\nOf the mouldering, sombre old city of Laguna,\\nthan which there is none more poetical in the islands,", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "THE OROTAVA ROAD.\\n21\\nI shall have something to say by and by. It kindles\\nthe imagination. It resembles a white-haired old\\nman who has lived safely through a stormy youth\\nand a vigorous and influential prime, but who is now\\ncontent to glide down to oblivion and decay, sooth-\\ning his decline with harmless babble about the red\\ndays he has seen, and the history he flatters himself\\nhe has helped to make. But it is saturated with that\\nworst symptom a town can have silence.\\nFrom Laguna to Orotava is about twenty miles,\\nor four hours going in the coach. We are now\\non the north side of the island. The sunlit blue\\nof the sea is below us, at the base of the broad slopes\\nwhich fall to the coast from the high road. These\\nslopes are assiduously cultivated, for this is the\\nrichest part of the island. Fields of maize, lupins,\\npotatoes, vineyards, brakes of fig-trees, orchards,\\ngroves of orange trees, tufts of bananas, cover the\\nland, with the fullest suggestion of opulence and\\nfertility. We pass groups and avenues of superb\\npalm trees, standing among the grain, or leading to\\nthe villas which dot this divine stretch of country.\\nThus the villages of Tacoronte and Sauzal are left\\nbehind, and near noon we halt at the inn of Matanza,\\nsensibly browned by the sun, and already conscious\\nthat the flies are likely to prove a serious pest in this\\nGarden of the Hesperides.\\nIn all Tenerife there is no better country inn than\\nthat, or rather those (for there are a rival pair of\\nthem), at Matanza. The hostess of the one I favoured\\nwas buxom and comely, and she .had learnt to a nicety\\nhow to fracture the shell in which the common Eng-", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "22\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nlishman thinks fit to ensconce himself. None but the\\nstiffest of necks could stay unbent before her hospit-\\nable endeavours, and her sweet if flattering com-\\nmiserations with the wayfarer on the hard luck that\\nhas compelled him to battle with heat, flies, and\\ndust on that particular day. Her smartness, too,\\nwas a pattern for all Spain though this was no\\ndoubt due to the exigencies of the mail, and its\\nassumed punctuality in leaving when the half-hour for\\nluncheon had expired. Ere I was well settled in my\\nchair the ragout of eggs and meat and broth, which\\nstands in Tenerife for a soup de pays, was smoking\\nbefore me and beefsteaks, cutlets of kid, chickens,\\ndukes (biscuits and other sugary confections), and\\nfruit of bananas, figs, oranges, and apples succeeded\\neach other like the carriages of a train. Ah the\\ndear English she muttered, while bustling about\\nwith dishes and bottles and she carried her affection\\nfor us so far as to attack and rout the bevy of bare-\\nlegged beggar boys and girls and old crones who kept\\nup a tiresome clamour for coppers at the window of\\nthe inn.\\nMatanza is the Spanish for slaughter. The vil-\\nlage and its little church with a lozenge-shaped tower,\\nunder the lee of some high pine-clad bluffs facing\\nthe Atlantic, marks the site where Alonso de Lugo\\nand his first body of invading Spaniards were brought\\nto a pitiful plight. They supposed that they had but\\nto show themselves to the Guanches and to Ben-\\ncomo the king of Taoro and prince of the first Guan-\\nches, to ensure a victory and an immediate surrender\\nof the island. It was far otherwise. Here at Matanza", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "THE BATTLE OF MATANZA.\\nthe Guanches attacked the Spaniards, and put no\\nfewer than nine hundred hors de combat. The re-\\nmaining handful fled with all speed back to the coast\\nand the wooden cross which had been set in the\\nground, as a place of sanctuary. It was here that\\nthe Spaniards first learnt that the Guanches were as\\npowerful individually as the Canarians of Grand\\nCanary, of which island Lugo had recently completed\\nthe conquest. Certain armoured crossbowmen of\\nSpain plied their bows from an eminence so as to\\nannoy the Guanches. Their position was unassail-\\nable. What could the Guanches do This they\\ndeliberately undermined the rock itself, so that in a\\nshort time it collapsed, crossbowmen and all.\\nIt was a famous victory, and had Bencomo, the\\nking, followed it up by a pursuit of the remnant of\\nthe Spaniards, he might have postponed the conquest\\nof Tenerife until the sixteenth century. But this\\nmonarch was not only unwilling to harass a beaten\\nfoe he pitied the very prisoners he had taken, and\\nlet them go to swell the broken forces at Santa Cruz.\\nNot that he was wholly of a mild and gentle disposi-\\ntion. His indignation was prodigious when, on the\\neve of the invasion, a native seer dared to prophesy\\nmisfortunes for his country. I swear by the tower-\\ning Peak of Teide, by the blood of Tinerfe, by the\\nheavens with all their stars, and by the sun now\\nshining on the other world (it was night) by these\\nI swear that never will I thus be cast down. Thou\\na prophet, with knowledge of the future Dost thou,\\nvillain, liar, fool, and madman, dare thus to mock at\\nme Hang him up without loss of a moment", "height": "3744", "width": "2300", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "24\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nWhen the luckless augur was swaying in his death\\nagonies from the bough of the tree, Bencomo, uncon-\\nsciously plagiarising from the Scriptures, taunted him\\nwith his inability to foretell his own dismal ending.\\nAgain, when later the white wings of the Spanish\\nships appeared, and the herald of Spain presented\\nhimself before the king with three demands Peace\\nthe acceptance by the Guanches of Christianity and\\nthe acknowledgment of King Ferdinand of Spain for\\ntheir sovereign lord Bencomo treated the two first\\nproposals with bland indifference, but flew into a\\nroyal rage about the third demand. We are\\nnot so weak that we are unable to defend ourselves.\\nI was born a king, and a king I mean to die, in\\ndefence of my honour, my country, and my sub-\\njects.\\nMatanza was the first battle between invaders and\\ninvaded. Here, among the barley and potatoes and\\nvines, relics of the fight of 1495 are still upturned\\nfrom the reddish earth bones, fragments of jerkins,\\nhelmets, spurs, and weapons.\\nLeaving this place of slaughter, we now drive\\nthrough the villages of Victoria (where the Spaniards\\nsubsequently atoned for Matanza by a bloody mas-\\nsacre of Guanches) and Santa Ursula, gradually\\ndescending from the high ground of Laguna. The\\npalms thicken, and the country gets more and more\\nfertile. We are nearing the vale of Orotava the\\nmost beautiful valley in the world, said Humboldt\\nand also approaching the base of the Peak.\\nSoon after traversing Santa Ursula, a deep ravine\\nis crossed by a strong lava bridge, and then we mount", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "THE VALLEY OF OROTAVA.\\n25\\nthe intervening shoulder of mountain, and have Oro-\\ntava at our feet.\\nThis landscape, like so many others, does not, I\\nthink, captivate fully at first. It were better for\\nOrotava had Humboldt never given it such respon-\\nsible praise. One looks for such transcendent beauty,\\nand the fancy is heated to such a pitch of expecta-\\ntion, that nothing less than Eden could satisfy.\\nBesides, in a valley so laboriously cultivated as\\nOrotava, the colours which help so much to beautify\\nit vary greatly according to the season. In April\\nthe barley is ripe, and, amid the green vines, palm, and\\nfig trees, the bronzed hue of autumn shows with\\nbrilliant effect. A month later, when the sun has\\ngained in heat, and the fields are already nude and\\ngrey, the charm is distinctly lessened. And in mid-\\nsummer, when the very springs which in winter and\\nMarch and April send full currents down to the\\ngardens in the valley, are almost dried up, and a\\ncoat of dust covers even the leaves of the trees\\nthen a man must take with him a light heart if he is\\nto see aught extraordinary in Orotava, in spite of its\\nblossoms, its surrounding hills, its blue sea breaking\\nin high surf upon the shore, and its supreme guardian,\\nthe Peak.\\nI saw Orotava at its best. The valley is really an\\namphitheatre, about ten miles long by six from the\\nlip of the bowl to the Atlantic bordering its arena.\\nWhere the sea touches the centre of the so-called\\nvalley, is the red and white town of Port Orotava,\\nor Puerto, as it is known locally. Two miles higher,\\nand joined with Puerto by a road hung with blossom-", "height": "3744", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "26\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ning trees, and bushes of geraniums, heliotrope, jas-\\nmin, and red roses, is the city of Orotava, or the\\nVilla, an imposing coterie of tall buildings, from the\\nmidst of which the dome of its large parochial church\\nglints in the sunlight. Beyond Orotava, on all\\nsides, are villages and country houses, thickset in\\nverdure, though the nature of the verdure depends,\\nof course, upon the zone of vegetation which their\\nrespective height above the sea-level procures for\\nthem. Thus the highest of these villages, while we\\nlook upon the valley from our surroundings of\\nflowering geraniums, bananas, and prickly pear, is\\nin a wood of great chestnut trees, the purple hue of\\nwhich tells us more easily than the naked eye that\\nthey have not yet unfurled a single leaf. In one part\\nof the valley all is florid and tropical in another\\nwe are, as it were, in Norway or Sweden and both\\nare visible at the same time.\\nBut though the various greens of this Garden of\\nthe Hesperides are sufficiently pleasing for a con-\\nnoisseur of Nature s colours, without the Peak,\\nOrotava would have no claim to be called magnifi-\\ncent. The mountains which gird the valley are from\\nsix to seven thousand feet high. When I saw them\\nfirst from Santa Ursula they were in black shadow\\nindeed their summits were cloaked in the darkest of\\nclouds. But over these clouds, and glowing effulgent\\nagainst a zenith of intense blue sky, stood the Peak\\nlike a superhuman guardian, suspended above the\\nvalley between earth and heaven. It stood as a vast\\npyramid of snow, with glistening lines upon it where\\nrunlets of snow water were melting down to the hot", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "THE PEAK FROM OROTAVA.\\n27\\nvalley at its base. The Peak of Tenerife is 12,180\\nfeet above the sea, according to Humboldt s measure-\\nment. As the cloud stratum which, with remark-\\nable obstinacy, forms almost daily at nine or ten\\no clock round its great body, hangs at an elevation\\nnot exceeding five thousand feet above the level, the\\nmountain is then invisible from Orotava. At such\\ntimes the whole valley seems to be living in the\\ngloom precedent to a violent thunderstorm. But by\\nclimbing the hills sufficiently high, or getting an out-\\nside view of the valley, the Peak itself is seen pre-\\nsiding over valley, clouds, and sea alike. This is\\none of those memorable sights that the mind holds\\nfast to as a pure incomparable pleasure. Recalling\\nit, one is then willing enough to justify Humboldt\\nfor his bold commendation of the valley of Orotava.", "height": "3744", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER III.\\nSweet idling in Puerto \u00e2\u0080\u0094Trivial excitements of a health resort\\nPuerto as it is and as it was The old wine trade Irish\\nmonuments in the Church Puerto s harbour La Paz A\\nGuanche sepulchre Guanche skulls A southern villa\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nThe cochineal insect Sugar, tobacco, and wine The ruin\\nof 1826.\\nTwo or three days experience of life in Puerto makes\\none feel that if change is good in proportion to its\\ncompleteness, this is a royal health resort.\\nThe eye can look nowhere without being charmed.\\nThe sorriest palm tree among the chimney pots of\\nthe town seems as happy in its surroundings as if it\\nwere one of a grove in a desert oasis. The brilliant\\ngreen of the young vines and barley a stone s throw\\nfrom my window is not less beautiful than the olive\\nof the distant country, where it swells upwards to\\nthe dark pine forests on the slopes, 5,000 feet above\\nPuerto nor the deep clear blue of the Atlantic, where\\nit beats into surf against the black scoriated strand of\\nthe town, than the pure azure of the heavens above\\nthe white crest of Teide.\\nAll is cheerful from the rhythmical boom of the\\nsea-surge to the singing of the birds in the adjacent", "height": "3736", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "DOLCE FAR NIENTE.\\n3i\\nmagnolias and orange trees, the singing of men in\\nthe streets, and the tinkle of the bells of the goats as\\nthey browse towards their upland pasture grounds.\\nIt is warm, but not too warm. During the mid-\\nday heat, one may lounge the hours away under the\\nshade of the palms, in an atmosphere sweet with\\nheliotrope and orange blossom, and cooled by the\\nsplash of the water in the marble fountains among\\nthe trees.\\nBy and by the shadows slide fast to the west. The\\nday dies briefly in a wrack of blood-red vapour.\\nThe stars hurry forth their light. The little green\\nfrogs in the water tanks break into loud amorous\\nbabble. The clouds lift from the loins of the Peak,\\nand the great cone of glowing snow shines down on\\nthe valley with a lustre that mocks the ray of the\\nbaby moon, rising feebly behind it.\\nBut voluptuousness and inertia do not here rule\\nwith absolute despotism. There is a measure of\\nwhat is called life, even at this young health\\nresort. One day, for instance, with the early cup of\\ncoffee, news comes of the death of your neighbour.\\nIt is not unexpected, of course. Here nothing is unex-\\npected. But, within the next twenty-four hours, the\\npoor fellow is buried and nearly forgotten. It was a\\nlittle disturbing to have the men with the black\\ncoffin on their shoulders, cigarettes in their mouths,\\nand a bucket of quicklime in their hands come into\\nyour room by mistake. Yet even this gives occasion\\nfor some dry humour before the week is out. Again,\\nit made one wince for the moment, when, during the\\nfuneral service in the small whitewashed cemetery", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "33\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nfor those outside the Church, full of big scarlet\\ngeranium bushes, and shadowed by tall date palms,\\na lavender-coloured dog, like a wolf-hound, found his\\nway into the midst of the tearless throng of strangers\\nat the grave of their comrade who has gone into the\\nstrangest of all strange places, and sniffed unctuously\\nat the ill-made coffin ere he was kicked off by the\\nburly tourist in a pugaree. These little extraordinary\\nevents of the day are not such bad condiment for the\\nevening dinner, with its average hour and a half of\\ntediousness. As for the morrow, it may be devoted\\nto the dance at the Governor-General s in Santa\\nCruz, his Excellency, with a keen sense of the benefit\\nhis province is likely to get from the influx of foreign\\npurses, having sent an invitation for a score or so of\\nthe English of Puerto. And on the following day\\nthere is a riding party and a picnic for those who\\nthink it not unbecoming to take their pleasure on\\nSunday, and a new preacher for those who attend\\nservice.\\nAdd to these mild diversions the excitement that\\ncomes in with every steamer bearing its quota of new\\nvisitors, letters, newspapers, c, and the conscious-\\nness, individual and collective, that the place is\\nhealth-restoring in a remarkable degree, and you will\\nsee that this Grand Hotel of Orotava, with its\\ntropical gardens, lofty irreproachable rooms, and\\ncomforting cuisine, is not to be despised.\\nPuerto is a comatose little town of about 4,000\\ninhabitants, built on a bed of lava, which in the\\nthirteenth century flowed hither and into the sea\\nfrom one of the three small volcanic humps that", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "4", "height": "3744", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "PUERTO.\\n35\\nstand up with an air of menace in the midst of the\\nvalley of Orotava.\\nIn half an hour one may walk by a narrow and\\ntortuous river-bed, with pent precipitous walls like a\\nminiature canon, to the base of this pyramid of iri-\\ndescent ash, whence the foundations of Puerto issued\\nin fiery solution.\\nWith patience and another half-hour one may climb\\nto the top of the volcaneta. It is already crumbling\\naway, even as the lava it exuded is disintegrating,\\nand become a prey to vines, mulberry, and peach\\ntrees. Wild fig and euphorbia bushes have taken\\nroot in it, and their twigs are bound together by the\\nstout webs of fat, mottled spiders, who look able\\nand willing to resent the collapse of their careful\\nestablishments. From this vantage ground there is\\na broad view of the villages of Orotava and the sea,\\neven to the island of Palma, fifty miles away.\\nPuerto, like Laguna, is a moribund town. It has\\nmany substantial houses, with fascinating patios and\\nbalconies, and the urchins who ascend to the belfry\\nof its parish church, and work the clappers of the\\nbells, daily make noise enough for half a dozen active\\nseaports but the grass in the slippery streets bears\\nwitness against Puerto. In the seventeenth and\\neighteenth centuries the English agents of the Lon-\\ndon wine merchants who bought Canary wine,\\nmainly resided here. They were the authors of the\\nbest of Puerto s houses. They made much money,\\nlived jovially, married the prettiest Spanish girls of\\nTenerife, and left their progeny to perpetuate the\\nvirtues of Englishmen in the island. Indeed, they", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "36\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwere so keen commercially, that at one time they all\\nbut had the monopoly of the local wines. The growers\\ngot pinched under this mercantile pressure, and,\\nafter protesting in vain, attacked the English ware-\\nhouses. Thus it happened that in 1666, at Garachico,\\na few miles west of Puerto, scores of barrels of wine\\nwere burst in the night by bands of masked peasants,\\nand the liquor was sent flowing down the gutters\\ninto the sea. In the eighteenth century we had\\nbegun to tire of Canary wines Madeira was super-\\nseding them. Nevertheless, as Viera says, though\\nwe spoke ill of Canary, we still bought it. We\\ncontinued, in fact, to buy it, until the oidium disease,\\nearly in this century, came disastrously upon the\\nvineyards of Tenerife. The cloud which then fell\\nupon Puerto has not yet lifted.\\nBoth the church and the present inhabitants of Puerto\\nshow traces of Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Celtic blood.\\nOne, Don Bernardo Walsh vir bonus et justus\\nomnibus innocuus who died in 1713, is responsible\\nfor a chapel of St. Patrick in the church, and for a\\nred and green altar of stupendous ugliness. He also\\nwas the donor of the font. His wife, a dame of the\\nFitzgerald family, lies buried here by his side. In the\\nChapel of St. Joseph, opposite to that of St. Patrick,\\nis similar witness to the fellowship between Puerto\\nand Ireland. The handsome heavy wood screen\\nbehind the altar is surmounted by a harp, and here,\\ntoo, lie members of the family of Don Bernardo, who\\nseems to have assumed the euphonious alias of\\nValois, and the titles of nobility deserved fry such a\\nname. A certain medical man named Shee, Apollo", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2292", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "CONGRESS\\nINSTRUCTIONS\\nobtain a book, first consult the Card\\nCatalog for Book Number.\\nU out call slip, giving required information.\\nlect a desk, and place the desk number on\\nthe slip.\\njsent the slip at the Main Desk. If no\\nresponse is received within 30 minutes,\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2Jieck with an attendant at the Main Desk.\\nturn books to Main Desk.\\nference books, shelved in the Alcoves, are\\nor self-service. They may be taken to\\nour desk in the room.\\nassistance in locating material apply to\\nhe assistant-in-charge of the reference\\nsrvice in alcove 5.\\nGPO 16\u00e2\u0080\u009459325-1", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "BOOK NUMBER\\nAUTHOR\\nTITLE\\nVOLUME OR DATE\\nDESK NUMBER\\nNAME\\nso\\nADDRESS\\nMAIN READING R(\\nSTACK AND READER DIVISI\\ntie\\nCam\\nPOD;", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "PUERTO S HARBOUR.\\n39\\nHesperidum, who died in 1724, and whose earlier\\nassociations with Ireland are referred to on his\\ntombstone, shares this mortuary chapel with the\\nValois or Walshes. I do not know how to explain\\nthis exodus hither of Irishmen, apparently about the\\ntime of the War of the Spanish Succession. The\\nCanarians supported Philip V. against the Archduke\\nCharles, our candidate for the throne, and therefore\\nwe were on terms of enmity with them. Blue eyes,\\nwit, and a pleasant touch of Irish brogue, are, more-\\nover, the characteristics of several residents still in\\nPuerto.\\nTwo hundred years ago Puerto was dignified as\\nthe key of the island. This does but prove how\\ndeficient is Tenerife in harbourages. The port is a\\ntiny inlet made by the inclination of its mole towards\\nthe gnarled black rocks of lava on one side of it. It\\nwill hold a smack of a few score tons but so terrific\\nis the surf that the open sea is safer than the har-\\nbour. Even when there is no wind, the waves thunder\\ninto the little bay, and fly a hundred feet high into\\nspray against the roofs of the houses which perch on\\nthe shore rocks.\\nSouth-west of the bay is a battery as diminutive\\nas the harbour. It was erected to guard this precious\\nposition but I doubt if it ever had cause to fire one\\nof the toy guns with which it was furnished. For,\\nas old Glas, the first English historian of the\\nCanaries, says The surf that continually breaks\\nupon the shore is a better defence than a garrison of\\n10,000 of the best troops. Most of the Canarian\\nseaports at one time or another had to repel priva-", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "4 o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nteers, or submit to be sacked by them but Puerto\\nde la Cruz has no such records in its history. To\\nthe east of the port is a limited stretch of black\\nbasaltic sand, bordered with tamarisk bushes. A\\nshrine is the only guard-house here but, indeed,\\nthough rocks are wanting, the surf is even more\\nviolent than in the harbour.\\nAbove this hot black sand (Humboldt found its\\nrefracting power to be g\u00c2\u00b0 Reamur greater than that\\nof the ordinary white quartzose sand) is a precipitous\\nrock, which soon excites the interest of a visitor. It\\nrises about three hundred feet over the sea -level, and\\nits brow is daintily fringed with palms. The villa\\nproperty which runs to the very edge of this rock is\\nknown as La Paz (Peace). Here Humboldt spent a\\nday or two during his hasty view of Tenerife. He is\\nnow succeeded by a British officer and his family,\\nwho have rented the villa, and made it as like an\\nEnglish country house as a Spanish bungalow can\\nbe, with its surroundings of sugar cane, bananas,\\nplumbago bushes, and palms, instead of turf, trim\\ngarden plots, high elms, and oaks.\\nUnder the edge of this precipice, I found a trace of\\nold Guanche times that set me reflecting. In\\nscrambling obliquely down the rock sides among the\\neuphorbia, prickly pear, and scrub fig trees, I all but\\nslipped feet first into a pit which suddenly appeared\\nin the sand and scoriae of the surface. This hole,\\nabout twenty feet deep, held an immense medley of\\nhuman bones shins, ribs, arms, and crania, all\\nintermixed with the earth that had fallen in from the\\ntop of the cave. It was an ancient burial place of", "height": "3740", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "SEPULCHRAL CAVES.\\n43\\nthe aborigines of Tenerife, who made it a point of\\nhonour to inter their dead in holes almost inacces-\\nsible to ordinary human beings. I had ere this seen\\nfrom below a circular opening in the face of the cliff\\nwhere it is actually perpendicular, with a cluster of\\nthigh bones lolling in view against the parapet, like\\nmen and women in an opera box. This opening\\nseawards sufficed to throw a dim light into the\\nsepulchre.\\nBut, indeed, Tenerife must teem with the bones\\nand mummies of the Guanches. The problem is\\nto get at them. Given a ravine with sides more or\\nless precipitous, and one may be sure that the\\nnatural caves in its scoriated walls have been used\\nas chambers for the dead. Viera, the best historian\\nof the Canaries, had the luck to enter one of these\\ncaves, containing more than a thousand mummies,\\nsome recumbent, others erect and leaning against the\\nwalls. He attributed a fabulous age to these dead.\\nSome, he thought, might date from the time of Juba.\\nBut for ages it was the fashion with the apothecaries\\nof Europe to pay good prices for Guanche mummies,\\nwhich were esteemed as very valuable ingredients in\\ndivers mediaeval medicines. British sailors and\\nothers have therefore transported as many as they\\ncould lay hands upon, and these halls of the dead\\nare now denuded of their occupants.\\nDuring my stay in Orotava, however, a Swede with\\na rage for ethnic types, scented out a cave that had\\nnot been much disturbed, and carried off to his native\\nland, for the enrichment of the museums, a hamper\\nfull of skulls. Another cave was explored with dim-", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "-44\\nTHE CA NARY IS LA NDS.\\ncutty, aided by ladders and ropes, by some English-\\nmen, who trod knee-deep in brown dust and\\nskeletons, and contrived to dig from out this dry swamp\\nof dead humanity, fish hooks, needles of bone, and\\nscalps of the ruddy hair that adorned the Guanches,\\nIt appeared that the cave had long been the resort of\\na family of poor agriculturists, who found that its\\ndust was much liked by the beans and potatoes of\\ntheir garden.\\nThe cave of La Paz is too exposed to have been\\nexempt from rifling. It has yielded some well-de-\\nveloped heads to the collection of an enterprising\\nchemist of Puerto, and innumerable teeth for retail\\nby the Puerto boys at so much a dozen. We got\\ninto it one day with a rope, and toiled among the dry\\nbones, to little antiquarian purpose but we raised a\\ndust that was as pungent and operative as Scotch\\nrappee.\\nThe Guanche skulls are remarkable for their\\nbreadth at the cheek bones, and the fine preservation\\nof the teeth. In the museum of Tacoronte are heads\\nof admirable symmetry, and also heads of a base\\ntype. Probably the structural difference between a\\nGuanche noble and a common peasant, or a member\\nof the degraded class of butchers or embalmers, was\\nas emphatic as if they were of different human\\nfamilies.\\nBesides La Paz, there is another villa in the\\nneighbourhood of Puerto which may vie with it for\\nbeauty and luxuriant vegetation. This also is at\\npresent occupied by an English person, the widow of\\nan English gentleman who came here ill, and lived", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "A GUANCHE SEPULCHRE,", "height": "3744", "width": "2292", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3732", "width": "2364", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "THE COCHINEAL INSECT.\\n49\\nthrough several decades in excellent health. The\\ngarden contains some gems of the tropics, and\\nvery many dissimilar fruits and flowers. There\\nis also a croquet lawn enclosed by palm trees,\\njasmin, plumbago, and bougainvillea bushes, all in full\\nbloom, young dragon trees, and custard apple trees,\\nwith a bower of vines as a shelter at one end, and a\\nmixed perfume of incredible richness. When this\\nEnglish invalid came here, the land was malpais,\\nor good for nothing, because of the lava which over-\\nwhelmed it. Now, a gay ochre villa, with palm tufts\\nbefore and behind it, this glorious garden, and careful\\nvineyards, irrigated by as careful canals of flowing\\nwater, show what industry and energy can do with\\neven the worst of soil. But it must be admitted that\\nthe lava, which had then been out about five cen-\\nturies, and was friable from decomposition, only\\nneeded the hand of a master to turn it to account.\\nOn the skirts of this delightful property I was\\nintroduced to the cochineal insect as usual, in a\\ncloud of white dust, on the eccentric ear of the prickly\\npear. He is a fat, dark, spherical little creature, look-\\ning like a black currant, and with neither head, legs,\\nnor tail, to the casual observer. In fact, he is so\\ninanimate that one may squash him between finger\\nand thumb without any qualm of conscience. He is\\nnothing but a black currant, sure enough, though the\\nbright carmine or lake exusion from his body, which\\nserves him for blood and us for dye, is a better\\ncolour than the juice of the currant.\\nIt was the cultivation of these pleasant little indi-\\nviduals which, a score of years ago, put no less than\\n5", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\n40 per cent, per annum upon investments into the\\npockets of the cultivators. Such prosperity was too\\ngood to last. The insect was not introduced into\\nTenerife until 1825 and for a time it could not be\\nencouraged to propagate successfully. A priest was\\nthe discoverer of the right method of nurture, and to\\nhim it is due that from 1845 to 1866 an annual crop\\nof from two to six million pounds of cochineal was\\nproduced.\\nA cochineal plantation has a singular aspect. The\\nlarvae, being very delicate, and rather thick-witted,\\nhave to be tied upon the cactus plant, which is to be\\ntheir nursery and their nourishment at the same time.\\nThus one sees hundreds of the shoots of the prickly\\npear the cactus in question all bandaged with white\\nlinen, as if they had the toothache. In this way the\\ninsects are kept warm and dry during the winter, and\\ninduced to adhere to the plant itself. When they are\\nfull grown, they are ruthlessly swept from their\\nprickly quarters, shaken or baked to death, and dried\\nin the sun. The shrivelled anatomies are then packed\\nin bags, and sold as ripe merchandise at about \u00c2\u00a35 a\\nhundredweight.\\nBesides the cochineal, Tenerife grows a little sugar\\nand tobacco. A century and a half ago not fewer\\nthan a thousand negroes were employed on a single\\nplantation of the island that of Adeje. Nowadays,\\nhowever, the sugar industry has fallen, and the newer\\nindustry of tobacco is likely to supplant it.\\nThe local wines are in as low a state as the sugar\\nand cochineal of the island. They have lost ground\\nsadly since the time when Falstaff blurted their", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2292", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "A VILLA OF TENERIFE,", "height": "3732", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "A FLOOD IN PUERTO.\\n53\\npraises. As a matter of form, the hotel list included\\ntwo or three varieties of Tenerifan wine, though it\\nwas notorious that none but case-hardened stomachs\\ncould endure them. Even the Malvasia, in spite of\\nits reputation and agreeable savour, plays tricks in an\\nungenerous manner upon the man who patronises it.\\nHence the anomalous and humiliating custom of\\ndrinking Bordeaux and Burgundy in a country that\\nought to put France to the blush for its wines.\\nWhen I ordered a bottle of Malvasia at dinner, the\\nhead waiter, a good and considerate man, asked, in a\\nwhisper, if I knew what I was doing. It is considered\\nwise to talk with the doctor before making such a\\nbold experiment.\\nNo wonder, therefore, that there are so many\\nempty warehouses at Puerto, or warehouses that once\\nheld tuns of Canary, but now are stacked with maize,\\nor with salt fish for Lenten consumption. During my\\nstrolls through the silent streets I looked into deserted\\nhouses, conventual and other buildings, with over-\\ngrown gardens, and monstrous accumulations of foul\\ndirt and cobwebs. Ah if only the disease had not\\ncome to us wailed the son of one of the ruined\\nwine merchants. It was different before. And the\\nflood of 1826 too that was bad for Puerto It\\nrained for hours and hours, and for days in the moun-\\ntains, so that the water ran down the river beds with\\nthe noise of guns. But the river beds could not hold\\nit, there was so much And thus it swept into the\\ntown, and drowned hundreds of men and women and\\nbeasts, and carried them and the very houses out on\\nto the Atlantic.", "height": "3760", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "54\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nAs a matter of fact, this terrific inundation destroyed\\n225 houses, and drowned 235 people and 804 head of\\ncattle. In the district of Laguna, it was not satisfied\\nwith such superficial havoc. Whole estates were\\nwashed from the steep hill sides into the valleys so\\nthat the unfortunate proprietors saw nothing but the\\nbare rock-bed of their fields remaining to them.\\nForgetting for the moment the balmy luxurious air\\nand charming scenery of these islands, and turning\\nto the category of evils they have suffered from storms\\nlike this storm, from piratical ravages, locusts, pesti-\\nlence, drought and earthquakes, one cannot but\\nrealise that the term Fortunate Isles, applied to them\\nof old, has and has had only a comparative meaning\\nafter all.", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IV.\\nVarious conjectural origins of the name, people, and land of the\\nCanary Islands The island of San Borondon The legen-\\ndary first inhabitants The Canaries and the Elysian Fields\\nidentical.\\nI had hoped to be able in this little book to give a\\nconcise yet complete account of the early traditions\\nand history of the Canary Isles but I find it impos-\\nsible. Scores of learned and unlearned men, lay and\\necclesiastic, have, centuries ago, preceded me in this\\nwork. They have written it in various species of\\nprose, and in poetry of the epic kind. The facts of\\ncommon acquisition to them all have been swelled by\\nsome of them into gigantic exaggerations, and this un-\\ntruthful nucleus they have buried under a crust of new\\nconjectures, suggestions, hypotheses, and statements,\\nmost or all of which they owe to their own heated\\nbrains, and to their anxiety for the fame that attends\\neven upon presumptuous originality. These fantastic\\nand sinful writers have been followed by others,\\nlazy rather than imaginative, who have worked\\nafter the eclectic mode. They have chosen a pretty\\ntheory from one ancient, a monstrous lie from another,\\na ridiculous assertion from a third and, with a cer-", "height": "3744", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "56\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntain labour, have moulded the whole into what they\\nwere pleased to call a history. The amount of non-\\nsense in the Canarian bibliography is therefore pro-\\ndigious. A man might sift his wits away in the effort to\\nf extract the grains of sense from the piles of nonsense.\\nAt least, however, I will give a brief common epi-\\ntome of the conceived origin of the name, the inhabi-\\ntants, and the very bulk itself of the islands for\\nnothing has been taken for granted about these petty\\nspots in the Atlantic. The Abbe Viera, who wrote\\nin the last century, is the Canarian classic historian.\\nI rely upon the 1,700 octavo pages of his four volumes\\nfor my wisest words.\\nThe Canarian Archipelago consists of seven in-\\nhabited islands and five uninhabited islets, all rang-\\ning between latitude 27 30 and 29 25 north, and\\nbetween longitude 13 and 18 west of Greenwich.\\nTheir nearness to the north-west coast of Africa is\\ntherefore apparent.\\nThe islands, in the order of their size, are Tene-\\nrife, 1,946 square kilometres Fuerteventura\\n(with Lobos), 1,722 kilometres Grand Canary,\\n1,376 kilometres Lanzarote (with adjacent islets),\\n741 kilometres Palma, 726 kilometres Gomera,\\n378 kilometres Hierro, 278 kilometres. Their\\npresent population is nearly 300,000 of which\\nTenerife and Grand Canary provide more than half.\\nBut whence the name Canary, which, late in the\\nmiddle ages, superseded the title of Fortunate,\\napplied to them by King Juba, and recorded by Pliny\\nAh, whence indeed Here are a few solutions for\\nthe amusement of philologists.", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "EXERCISES IN NOMENCLATURE. 57\\nAntonio de Viana, a native of Tenerife, printed, in\\n1604, an epic poem in blank verse, beginning,\\nI sing the origin of the name Canary.\\nThe poem contains sixteen cantos, each averaging\\ntwenty-four pages, and thirty-six lines to the page.\\nBut it must be confessed that he does not give all the\\n13,000 lines of the epic to the single subject. He\\nis responsible for the hardy and unscriptural plea\\nthat Noah, late in life, had two children, Crano and\\nCrana, who put to sea, sailed into the Atlantic, and\\nlanded on the Canaries. Once here, the rest was\\neasy. They peopled these solitary rocks by their\\nown unaided efforts. The islands were also named\\nafter them Crana or Crano. For the sake of\\neuphony, their descendants decided to transpose the\\nletters of their great ancestors name. Hence arose\\nCanar whence Canaria.\\nThis thought of deducing from Noah the generic\\nname of the group seemed to subsequent writers so\\nbrilliant that they hesitated not to expand it. Thus\\nthat credulous old simpleton, Nunez de la Pena,\\nascribes Gomera to Gomer, a grandson of Noah, by\\nJaphet, and Hierro, the most westerly isle, to Hero,\\na great grandson.\\nAgain, it is assumed by some people that in the\\nCanaries there is a never-ending chorus of song from\\nthe little yellow birds, which, it is also assumed, have\\ngiven these islands their name. Both assumptions\\nare wrong. As for the first, were it so, the brain-\\nsick wanderer to Tenerife, in search of tranquillity,\\nmight as well take rooms in Cheapside. As for the", "height": "3756", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nsecond, though there were not wanting those who\\nderived Canada from the Latin cano, with refer-\\nence to the canary birds of the islands, others, with\\nmore intelligence, have pointed out that it is the\\ni birds who have taken the name of the islands, and\\nnot the islands a name derived from an attribute of\\nthe birds.\\nA third source of strife is hardly less absurd. Is it\\nnot clear, asks Ambrosio Calepino, that the word\\nCanary comes from the Spanish cana, or the Latin\\ncanna, which means a cane, and especially a sugar\\ncane The islands grow sugar cane that settles it.\\nBut this dull gentleman did not perceive that he had\\nlaboriously harnessed his cart to the horse. The\\naborigines called Grand Canary, Canada (whence\\nthe distinctive name of the group), long before the\\nSpaniards conquered it. And it is simple knowledge\\nthat the conquerors first introduced the sugar cane\\ninto the islands.\\nThomas Nicols, an Englishman, whose travels,\\nearly in the sixteenth century, appear in the Purchas\\ncollection, agrees somewhat with Calepino. He\\nsays he was informed by the natives that their land\\nwas called after the euphorbias, or cardons, which\\nabound in it. But the root of the matter is as in-\\nsecure as Calepino s. The euphorbias were called\\ncanas by the Spaniards, and Nicols did not see that\\na Spanish word could not explain a name that existed\\nere Spain influenced Canary.\\nA priest broaches the theory that Canary and\\nCanaan are identical in origin. The Canaanites who\\nfled before Joshua when he invaded Palestine took to", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "THE EVIDENCE OF PLINY.\\n59\\nthe sea like the children of Noah, and reached the\\nFortunate Isles. Again, the Canarians are the off-\\nspring of the tribes of Israel, dispersed by Shal-\\nmaneser. But, it has been well asked, what was there\\nin common between the luxury of Tyre and the ex-\\ntreme simplicity of the Canarians, alike in food and\\nclothing\\nThe adjacent mainland of Africa offers a sixth\\nelucidation. Ninety miles east of Grand Canary is\\nthe cape we call Bojadore or Mogadore, but which\\nPtolemy and others called Chaunaria extrema\\nwhence Caunaria and Canada. This derivation is\\nnot to be despised.\\nBut here comes Pliny, with an authoritative claim\\nin the christening. Writing about the Fortunate\\nIslands, and drawing his material from the manu-\\nscript of King Juba, who had visited them in person,\\nhe says explicitly that the island of Canary got its\\nname from the multitude of huge dogs in it two of\\nwhich dogs Juba took back with him to Africa.\\nViera holds to this as the most rational of all the\\ntheories and, indeed, it sufficiently accounts for the\\nname given to it by King Juba. It were, however, a\\ncurious problem for an antiquary to show why Canary\\nin after ages retained this Latin name, while five of\\nthe other islands, then known respectively as Ombrios,\\nJunonia, the greater and the less, Capraria, and\\nNivaria, lost completely their old designations. The\\ndogs of Canary are certainly a distinct breed. Even\\nNicols notices them and he accuses the natives of\\neating them.\\nA last reckless surmise is the association of the", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "6o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nisland peopled by Elishah, the son of Javan (Genesis\\nx. 4), and quoted in Ezekiel xxvii. 7, with the Elysian\\nFields of the ancients, which again have been iden-\\ntified with the Canary group.\\nBut the subject is bewildering, and I am glad to\\nturn my back upon it. There are they who doubt if\\nTenerife and its six companions are the Fortunate\\nIslands referred to by Pliny. Great Britain is pre-\\nferred in which case, of course, King Juba carried\\nhome a couple of bull-dogs for the improvement of\\nhis African kennels. In short, nothing but impudence\\nis needed to support the thesis that the Canary Isles\\nhave no fellowship whatever with Tenerife, Grand\\nCanary, and the others of this Archipelago.\\nFrom the name we fall to a consideration of the\\nstructural history of the islands. Were the Canaries\\nat one time a part of the continent of Africa? Was\\nit due to Noah s flood that they first became insu-\\nlated Are they identical with the Atlantis of Plato?\\nOr are they comparatively modern additions to the\\nlanded property of our globe, by submarine upheaval?\\nThere is no lack of evidence for the support of\\nthese various notions, and so the dilettante may pick\\nand choose at his leisure. The sandy soil and the\\ncamels of the eastern islands are held as conclusive\\ntestimony that they and the continent were formerly\\none. The flora of the islands and the continent is\\nalmost the same. The language of the Berbers, the\\nnearest uncivilized race of Africa, has been proved\\nto have close affinity with the individual languages\\nof the islanders before the conquest.\\nEverything indicates therefore that the islands are", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "SAN BORONDON.\\n6\\nmerely accidental parings from the mainland. If a\\nthousand fathoms of water intervene, it is nothing to\\nthe point.\\nSimilarly, in the words of a modern, everything\\nindicates that this whole island of Tenerife is, in its\\nentirety, but the summit of a half-risen mountain.\\n(Piazzi Smyth.)\\nAfter this, one cannot be surprised to learn that\\nfor several centuries the Spaniards did not know\\nexactly how many islands they ought to include in\\nthe number of the Canaries.\\nThe history of the enchanted island of San\\nBorondon is indeed a most singular geographical\\nromance. For nearly three centuries after the con-\\nquest, the authorities were frequently puzzled by\\nreports, having every apparent mark of truth, of the\\nobservation of an island in the neighbourhood of the\\nCanarian Archipelago, and which was believed to be\\nthe eighth member of the group. This island could\\nnever be found by direct search but, when it was\\nleast looked for, then, to the wonder of the mariners,\\nits strange high mountains were wont to loom in\\nsight. No one could account for such coquettish\\nconduct. Nevertheless, the island was duly registered\\nas a property of the Spanish Crown.\\nAmong the articles of the treaty of Evora, in\\n1519, between Spain and Portugal, in which treaty\\nPortugal ceded to Spain its claim of seignorage over\\nthe Canaries, San Borondon is included as the island\\nNon Trubada (not found). It was, however,\\nfancifully described as 87 leagues long and 28 broad\\nas being 40 leagues distant from Palma, 100 leagues", "height": "3756", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "62\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nfrom Hierro and 40, 15, 10, or 8 leagues (according\\nto the diversity of opinion) from the island of\\nGomera.\\nThe name of this mysterious island was derived\\nfrom a certain Scotch monk, Saint Brandon, or\\nBlandon, or Borondon, who, in the sixth century,\\nwith a fellow monk, Saint Maclovius, and eighteen\\ncompanions, is said to have set out on an evan-\\ngelizing tour from the north, and arrived in the\\nCanarian waters.\\nSigeberto, a mediaeval chronicler, gives the details\\nof what followed, with quaint circumstantiality.\\nThe monks had been long at sea without a sight of\\nland. Easter Sunday arrived, and they were bitterly\\ndistressed that they were unable to celebrate the\\nHoly Eucharist. In their sorrow they all went upon\\ntheir knees on the deck of the little ship, and prayed\\nto God to create some land in the middle of the\\nocean, available for the Paschal services. Hereupon\\nthe island of San Borondon or Brandon made its\\nfirst appearance, and, in a transport of joy, the monks\\nwent ashore, and built an altar.\\nAnother version of the story says that the Saint\\nMaclovius whose name is associated with Saint\\nBrandon, was not a companion, but a gigantic native\\nof the island, whom Saint Brandon found dead in a\\ncave, resuscitated, and baptized. But the amazed\\ngiant was not altogether satisfied with his involun-\\ntary resurrection. Fifteen days after the event, he\\nbegged that he might be allowed to return to his\\ngrave. His request was granted but, before his\\nsecond death, he informed his benefactor {sic) that", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "THE SEARCH FOR SAN BORONDON.\\n63\\nhis contemporaries had been acquainted with the\\nmystery of the Trinity and the Pains of Hell.\\nThen the monks sailed away, and left the island to\\nitself.\\nIt has been suggested that this temporary altar in\\nthe sea was only a whale, miraculously controlled.\\nBut this does not explain the constant reappearance\\nof the island, with its proper equipment of mountains,\\nwood, and water. Four times between 1526 and 1721\\nthe Spanish officials of the Canaries sent expeditions\\nin quest of San Borondon. Chaplains and artificers,\\nas well as warriors, were on board these boats. But\\neach expedition returned discomfited. The pilots\\nand mariners who had told such unprofitable tales\\nnever omitted one feature pertaining to the island.\\nA storm invariably drove them away from it, when\\nthey had watered the ship, and had had time to\\nadmire its beauty and fruitfulness. For centuries,\\nhowever, though San Borondon was truly an Apro-\\nsitus, or inaccessible island, no one seems to have\\ndoubted its existence. It was somewhere, but its\\nday had not yet come. So late as 1730, two fathers\\nof the Church, the one very short of sight and the\\nother of intelligence, while with their bishop in the\\nIsle of Palma, thought they saw San Borondon, and\\nimmediately wanted to go thither to preach the\\ngospel. One precise historian even endows it with\\nan archbishop and six bishops, seven wealthy cities,\\nharbours, rivers, and a Christian people, blessed with\\nall the blessings of prosperity. After this, one may\\nexcuse Gautier, the French geographer, who, in\\n1755, boldly set down the island of San Borondon", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "6 4\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\non his map. According to him, it stood 5 west of\\nHierro, and in latitude 29\\nIt were a thankless task to attempt to explain how\\nan error like this held the popular understanding for\\nso long a time. Where there is little knowledge\\nthere is much credulity.\\nThe Abbe himself, one of the most enlightened\\nSpaniards of his age (1731-1813), tried to explain\\nSan Borondon as a freak of refraction but Hum-\\nboldt soon afterwards demonstrated that this expla-\\nnation was as unsound as its predecessors.\\nThe island of San Borondon, or San^ Blandon, or San Brandon, or San\\nBrandan, according to Spanish belief in the fifteenth to the eighteenth\\ncentury. (From a drawing made in 1730 by a priest of Palma.)\\nI must add a few words about the mythical first\\ninhabitants of these islands, before I describe the\\nactual people whom the Spaniards, in the fifteenth\\ncentury, crushed into subjection to the Peninsula.\\nIt may be thought that this question has already\\nbeen sufficiently debated as part and parcel of the\\npuzzle of the origin of the word Canary. No\\nsuch thing. It has involved distinct treatises of", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "ORIGIN OF THE CANARIANS. 65\\nawful length, complexity, and weight, and the subject\\nis still open to discussion.\\nWe have seen that Canaan, Gomer and Hero, the\\ngrandson and great grandson of Noah, and Elishah\\nthe son of Javan, also a great grandson of the same\\npatriarch, have been made responsible for the peopling\\nof the isles. So also has the Phoenician Hercules\\n(from Harokel, a merchant), who, in a naval battle\\nwith the King of Mauritania, drove certain of the\\nAfricans into the archipelago, where they stayed\\nfrom that time forward. Others give the early\\nparents of some of the isles a low origin. They\\nwere a band of criminals whom Himbric, king of\\nthe Vandals, exiled from the mainland, having\\ndeprived them of their forefingers and thumbs, and\\nabbreviated their tongues. This seemed to account\\nfor the thick pronunciation which characterized\\nthe native speech when the Spaniards came upon\\nthe isles.\\nThen they are regarded as autochthones, the for-\\ntunate few who clung to the high lands of Atlantis,\\nwhen the greater part of that island of which the\\npresent Canaries are the survival went down into\\nthe sea.\\nAgain, Herodotus tells us of Egyptians who, in\\n616 b.c, sailed round the Cape of Good Hope, from\\neast to west. It were natural that, in their return\\nhome after this long voyage, certain of these brave\\nfellows should be tempted to land among the verdure\\nof the Canaries. Egypt, therefore, has a claim upon\\nthe stock of the country.\\nThese two or three of the possible progenitors of\\n6", "height": "3756", "width": "2312", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "66\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe Canarians will suffice for my purpose. I do\\nnot wish to enter upon controversy, whether ethno-\\nlogical or etymological\u00e2\u0080\u0094 especially about a group of\\nislands whose united superficies is less than the area\\nof a single English county. But I willingly admit\\nthat these islands may be the Elysian Fields at\\nthe extremity of the world, whither the happy\\nMenelaus was to go for the endless winter of his life\\nwhere men live sweet and tranquil days, where\\nthere is no snow, nor rain, nor severe winters but a\\nnever-changing balmy air, breathed from the sea.\\nThere is, in truth, so little rain in the island that\\na poet may be forgiven when he says that there\\nis none at all. But is it not odd that the island\\nof Tenerife a component part of this heaven on\\nearth should have been called by the Guanches\\nof the middle ages, Hell? and, therefore, also styled\\nInfernus in the early Bulls, issued by the Popes\\nof Rome in ecclesiastical matters that concerned\\nthe Canaries", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER V.\\nTacoronte Its museum and miraculous crucifix The Guanches\\nTheir mummies and method of embalming Their polity\\nCoronations Ceremony of ennobling Religion The\\nvestal virgins of Grand Canary Education Morals\\nTrial by smoke Punishment of crime Dress General\\ncharacter Food The Palma mode of dying Dwellings\\nand furniture Inscription of Belmaco Strength and\\nagility Reflections.\\nA visit to the pretty village of Tacoronte, on the\\nbreezy slopes between Orotava and Laguna, gives\\nme a fit opportunity to say something about the\\nGuanches of Tenerife, and their barbarian brethren\\nin the other Canarian islands.\\nTacoronte has only four or five thousand inhabi-\\ntants among its palm trees and red and white\\nvillas but it boasts a museum of native antiquities\\nnot to be matched in Tenerife.\\nHere, in pleasant disorder, one sees the mummies,\\nthe weapons, the unguents, the spices, and clothing\\nof these ancients, who, three centuries ago, were\\nstill talked of by the Spaniards who had suppressed\\nthem as ideals of Arcadian innocence and\\ngentle simplicity. The kingdom of this world is for\\nthe strong the poor dispossessed Guanches w r ere", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "68 THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwelcome to poetic excellence. Besides, those of\\nthem who had not died in the process of civilizing,\\nwere so degraded that it cost nothing to praise their\\nforefathers. It may be remembered also that, in\\nspite of this laudation, the governors of the six\\ngreat colleges of Spain made it a bar to the admis-\\nsion thereto of a boy, that he had Guanche blood\\nin him.\\nThis ancient town, the seat of the proud Acaymo,\\none of the nine kings, who, after Tinerfe, divided the\\nisland between them, contains other objects of interest,\\nas well as the museum. Its women are beautiful\\nbut what is one to say about the ladies of a land,\\neach little village of which claims to surpass all the\\nothers for its beautiful women There is an extra-\\nordinary sameness about black eyes, viewed in the\\nabstract and yet, putting in retrospect the women\\nof one place against those of another, I recall such\\nsweet varieties of charms as baffle all cold com-\\nparisons. In its church there is a silver chandelier,\\nweighing a quintal, or about a hundred pounds\\navoirdupois and also a wonder-working crucifix,\\nwhich the sacristan shows with a dubious glance\\nof appeal, as if imploring it to withhold any miracu-\\nlous proof of wrath which it might feel inclined to\\nmanifest, to punish him for his sins. A record\\nis kept of the attested miracles wrought by this\\nensanguined figure but they do not differ from\\nother miracles of the kind. A freak of the marvel-\\nlous that met us in Tacoronte, and made more\\nimpression than these tales, was a mule walking\\nup the street at a demure pace in two pair of", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "GUANCHE MUMMIES.\\n69\\nsackcloth breeches. It is because of the flies,\\nsenor, the cursed flies said the muleteer, with\\na smile of sympathy. I fancy the animal would\\nrather have had his red wounds exposed to the\\nflies venomous though they are than be pent in\\nsuch a stiff unnatural style.\\nThe mummies of Tacoronte have none of that\\ncheerful picturesqueness with which an Egyptian\\nmummy in his case invariably charms the eye.\\nThey are indeed very gruesome. There is a queen\\nwith a fine set of white teeth, and thick curly mouse-\\ncoloured hair on her head. She is wrapped in\\nseveral sheepskins, the wool being inside, and tied\\nup with parchment thongs. But her attitude and\\ngeneral appearance give her the look of a large\\ncat that has been done to death through much\\nagony, and mummified while in the last convulsive\\nparoxysm. A still more ghastly object is a loath-\\nsome dishevelled old man with his tongue out. But\\none notices with interest, that almond-shaped finger\\nand toe-nails were the fashion even among the\\nGuanches.\\nThe Guanche method of embalming differed from\\nthe Egyptian. The embalmers were a despised class\\nof people, but very skilful. They took charge of the\\ndead man, drew out his entrails through the mouth,\\nwashed him with salt and water, paying particular\\nattention to the ears, the nose, the fingers, nails,\\nand other tender parts, and then rubbed the body\\nwith an ointment of goat s butter, aromatic herbs,\\nturpentine, bark, pumice dust, wood ash, and other\\nabsorptive materials. Afterwards, it was placed in", "height": "3744", "width": "2196", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": ";o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe sun for fifteen days, during which time the\\nfuneral ceremonies lasted, with much lamentation\\nand weeping. Then the mummy was a finished\\nwork of art, dry and light as paper. It was lastly\\nswaddled in sheep or goat skins (sometimes as many\\nas ten or twelve), tied, ticketed for future recogni-\\ntion, and buried in a cave. Monarchs and the\\nnobility were put in coffins of hard wood, and either\\nset upright against the side of the cave in regular\\norder, or laid horizontally, about two feet from\\nthe ground, on crossed pieces of pine or tilo timber.\\nBut although we can give such circumstantial\\ndetails about their process of embalming, we could\\nno more practise the art with their success than we\\ncould preserve the dead in all the freshness of life,\\nwithout the secret of Ruysch or Swammerdam.\\nLet us now turn to the polity and manners of\\nthese people.\\nThe Guanche government was a kindly despotism.\\nTheir theory of the creation of human beings was\\nperhaps the most aristocratic ever conceived. At\\nfirst, they said, God made an equal number of men\\nand women, and provided them all with sufficient\\nmeans of subsistence. After a time, however, He\\ncreated others, whom He omitted to endow with\\nworldly goods. And when these applied to Him\\nfor sheep and goats, He bade them serve their\\nelders, who would then give them food and raiment\\nin return for their services.\\nThus originated the three orders of Guanche\\nsociety the kings, the nobles, and the common\\npeople or servants. The king, as the individual", "height": "3732", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "GUANCHE POLITY.\\n7i\\nrepresentative of the nobles, owned all the land, the\\nusufruct of which he gave to his people, in pro-\\nportion to the size of their families. At the death\\nof these vassals in chief (as they might be called)\\ntheir estates reverted to the sovereign, who then\\ndispersed them anew among the survivors.\\nThe kingship in Tenerife was hereditary. Until\\nabout a hundred years before the Conquest, there\\nwas but one monarch for the whole island. The\\ngreat Tinerfe, at his death, however, left nine sons,\\nand the realm fell into nine petty kingdoms or\\nprincipalities. In each kingdom the skull of the\\nfirst sovereign of that realm was preserved. A new\\nmonarch convened his nobles in the place of\\nassembly, and, having kissed his ancestor s skull,\\nsolemnly placed it on his head, saying, I swear\\nby this bone, which once wore the crown, to follow\\nthe example of him to whom it belonged, and to\\nstudy the happiness of my subjects. The nobles\\nthen one by one took the skull, and, respectfully\\nholding it on their right shoulder, kissed it and\\nsaid, I swear by thy coronation day to guard our\\nrealm, and the king thy descendant. The crown\\nassumed by the king was a garland of laurel, palm,\\nand sweet flowers, and the sceptre the thigh bone\\nof the monarch upon whose skull the oaths were\\nmade.\\nThe ceremony by which the son of a noble\\nGuanche was himself at a ripe age enrolled among\\nthe aristocracy was curious, The Faycan or high-\\npriest (the second person in the realm, and generally\\nthe king s brother) received the aspirant in the", "height": "3744", "width": "2236", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "72\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npresence of the people the youth s long hair\\nmarking the legitimacy of his claim to nobility.\\nThe Faycan then addressed the assembly, In the\\neternal name of God (Alcorac), I conjure you all\\nto declare if you have ever seen N the son of\\nM enter into the cattle yard to milk or kill\\nthe goats If you know that he has prepared\\nfood with his own hands If he has made raids\\nin time of peace If he has been uncivil or spoken\\namiss, especially to a woman. A favourable reply\\nhaving been given by his hearers, the pontiff then\\ncut the youth s hair below the ears, and gave him\\na lance to use in the service of the king. 1 Thence-\\nforward, he was a noble. But were he convicted\\nof soiling his hands by such ungentlemanly deeds as\\nthose mentioned, his hair was all snipped from his\\nhead, and he was condemned to be a villein for life.\\nIn the island of Grand Canary, a noble would\\nnever wound or kill any one, except in a stand-up\\nfight. And in time of war, when he had his enemy\\nat his feet, he would not kill him. This chivalrous\\nscrupulosity was such that it was held a most marked\\ninsult if raw meat of any kind were cut in his\\npresence.\\nIt must not be supposed that the religion of the\\nGuanches was an elaborate theological or ceremonial\\nsystem. They called the Deity by synonyms\\nmeaning the Preserver of the World The Sub-\\nlime One The Great Lord Even after the Con-\\n1 This lance was only a long piece of pine wood with a\\npointed extremity, hardened and blackened in the fire. The\\nTacoronte museum has specimens on its walls.", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "PRAYERS FOR RAIN.\\n73\\nquest, when the Spaniards introduced Mariolatry,\\nthey could not be persuaded to honour the Virgin\\nsave as the mother of the Preserver of the World\\nof the Sublime One, c. They had no idea of a Divine\\nrevelation, except the revelation of nature. Nor did\\nthey attempt the impossible by moulding images in\\nconceivable likeness to Him they called the Preserver\\nof the World. Only in times of drought they all be-\\ntook themselves to a high hill with a number of kids\\nand lambs and thence their petitions for rain, com-\\nmingled with the plaintive bleating of the motherless\\nlittle animals, were supposed to ascend to the\\nheavens.\\nIn Grand Canary, on the like occasions, the people,\\nwith palm leaves and sticks in their hands, went in\\nprocession, headed by the Vestal Virgins, carrying\\nvases of milk and butter. They danced and wailed\\non the mountain top, and left the milk and butter as\\na propitiatory offering to the Deity. Their subse-\\nquent conduct was extraordinary. Working them-\\nselves into a rage, they descended to the sea-shore,\\nwith angry shouts and gestures, and flogged the\\nwaves with their palm canes and sticks until they\\nwere tired. Perhaps they had a vague idea of the\\nprinciple of evaporation but surely not even the\\nspectacle of Canute in his throne upon our Kentish\\ncoast could be more ridiculous than this stern casti-\\ngation of the in-coming tide.\\nThe religion of the islanders of Palma was very\\nprimitive. In each of the twelve kingdoms of that\\ncountry was a pile of loose stones, which served them\\nfor divinities. The Caldera, however, was peculiar in", "height": "3740", "width": "2236", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "74\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nits possession of a natural isolated rock about one\\nhundred feet high, with which the destinies of the\\npeople of the district were thought to be allied. It\\nwas therefore periodically approached with offerings\\nof the entrails of pigs, sheep, c. Are you going\\nto fall one of the priests would say. It will\\nnot, if you give it what you have got, was the reply\\nfrom another priest. The offerings were then flung\\nagainst it, as a sacrifice.\\nIt is doubtful if the hierarchy of the Guanches\\nincluded the Vestal Virgins who were so greatly\\nreverenced and so important a part in the religious\\nceremonies of the Grand Canarians. These women\\n(admitted at a tender age, and absolutely chaste),\\ncalled Harimaguadas, attended upon newly born\\nchildren, poured water upon their heads, and gave\\nthem names. Unlike the Aztecs, however, who had\\nthe same form of ritual, they did not regard this\\nlavation as in any way concerned with the inherent\\nsinfulness of human nature. Among the Aztecs, again,\\na youth or a maiden on the threshold of adolescence\\nwas subjected to serious and formal lectures on the\\ndepravity of the heart, the evil that is in the world,\\nthe beneficial aridity of the paths of virtue, and so\\nforth. The moral education of the Guanches, on the\\nother hand, was very simple, and judiciously casual.\\nLook, my boy, an elder would say to his son, at\\nthose two men the one with a cheerful countenance,\\nrespected, possessing abundant flocks, and of a healthy\\nbody and the other, living like a dog, doing good\\nneither to himself nor to others, and held in con-\\ntempt by the rest of us. The one is a good, the other", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "MARRIAGE CEREMONIES.\\n75\\na bad man. You would, of course, like to resemble\\nthe good man, therefore follow his example.\\nThe Guanches really offer the bracing spectacle of\\na people whose enjoyment of life was quite un-\\ntinctured by the fancy that they were not as good as\\nthey might be. Their Faycan, indeed, was more of\\na temporal than a spiritual dignitary.\\nIn such a state of society, morality is likely to be\\na matter of convention only. A Guanche marriage\\nwas completed by the consent of the father to the\\napplicant for his daughter s hand her consent being\\npreviously obtained. But, according to some writers,\\nbefore the consummation of the marriage, the bride\\nhad to keep a recumbent position indoors for thirty\\ndays, during which time she was required to do\\nnothing but eat to the best of her ability and if at\\nthe end of the month this process had not fattened\\nher to the bridegroom s satisfaction, he repudiated her.\\nIn a land where all worldly pelf was the king s, a suitor\\nwas not despised for his poor circumstances. But the\\nmelancholy practice of prelibation kept the husband\\naloof until the king, or a Faycan, or one of the nobles,\\nrelieved the bride of her virginity. In the eastern isle\\nof Lanzarote, at one time, a woman was allowed to have\\nthree husbands. She maintained them in a sublime\\nstate of dependence, receiving them into her house,\\nmonth by month, in due rotation. This custom did\\nnot prevail among the Guanches. With them, how-\\never, divorce was as easy as marriage. A Guanche\\nking, who could ally himself with none but royal\\nblood, was at times obliged to marry his mother or\\nhis sister, But this habit cannot be imputed to", "height": "3744", "width": "2224", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "76\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nlicentiousness in a country where it was criminal in\\na man to address a word to a woman whom he did\\nnot know.\\nThe early history of Lanzarote has a singular\\nillustration of the value ascribed to legitimacy in\\nthe regal line. A Spanish vessel visited the island\\nin 1377, and the captain was amicably entertained by\\nthe king of the country. Nine months later the\\nqueen gave birth to a child which, from its fresh\\ncolour, rather mystified all except its mother. The\\nchild grew up, and in time became the wife of\\nGuanarame, an undoubted son of the king s.\\nGuanarame succeeded his father on the throne, and\\ndied, leaving a child as his heir. Certain of the\\nnobles now accused Ico, the widow of Guanarame, of\\nillegitimacy, whereby the child would be disinherited.\\nShe was condemned to a trial by smoke. Three\\nplebeian women were chosen to be her companions in\\na tiny chamber which was so rigorously enclosed\\nthat no air could enter to mitigate the effect of the\\nsmoke from fires of straw kindled within it. If she\\ndied, it was proof of her impure birth. The plebeian\\nwomen soon succumbed but Ico was saved by the\\nintervention of a friend, who had given her a damp\\nsponge through which to breathe for her salvation.\\nIn the punishment of crime, the Guanches were\\nvery lenient. Disrespect to women ranked high as\\na criminal offence. A homicide was merely ousted\\nfrom his lands. When the sentence included corporal\\npunishment, it was administered with the royal\\nsceptre the thigh bone of a king. But it was also\\ncustomary, immediately after the flogging, to apply", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "CRIME AND ITS PUNISHMENT.\\n77\\nhealing ointments to the bruises inflicted by such a\\nhard rod.\\nHouse-breaking was a capital crime in Fuerteven-\\ntura and Grand Canary and also theft, rape,\\nperjury, and homicide. The felon in such cases was\\nlaid flat on the ground, with a rock under the\\nshoulder-blades, and the professional butchers beat\\nin his breast-bone with stones, so as to crush his\\nheart into his ribs.\\nIn Hierro, moreover, the lex talionis applied to\\nbodily injuries.\\nBut perhaps the humanity of the Guanches is\\nbest shown by their method of punishing certain\\nSpaniards whom they took prisoners during the\\nwar of the conquest. They set them to wash the\\ngoats, and kill the flies that worried them. Such\\nmenial offices were a supreme degradation. This\\nintolerance of bloodshed also made them keep their\\nbutchers as a clan apart, ostracized by the nature of\\ntheir work, but fully provided with all the necessaries\\nof life.\\nThough the islands of the archipelago are so near\\neach other, the islanders held remarkably divergent\\nopinions about the same action. Thus, while in\\nHierro a thief was deprived of one eye for the first\\noffence, the other eye for a second offence, and so on,\\nuntil the rogue had nothing but a sentient trunk re-\\nmaining, in Palma, as in Sparta, the man was most\\nesteemed who could lift cattle with the greatest\\ndexterity. I am indeed disposed to think badly of\\nthe natives of Palma from first to last. They did\\nnot resist the Spaniards very valorously they were", "height": "3744", "width": "2232", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "78\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nreputed a melancholy people, in uncommon subjection\\nto their women, who were, to the eye, as well made\\nand capable as the men.\\nIt has been said that a man is known by his dress,\\niln truth, however, the climate rather than the\\ncharacter is betrayed by a study of national costume.\\nThus we find among the Canaries that in Lanzarote,\\nthe most easterly island, nakedness, except as to the\\nshoulders, was the fashion whereas in Tenerife,\\nthe inhabitants of which were habituated to the\\nlook, if not to the sensation, of snow, no one went\\nout of doors unattired in the tamarco, a species of\\nmantle worn over the sleeveless chemise reaching\\nto the hips, and common to men and women alike.\\nViera attributes the morality of the Guanches in a\\nmeasure to the length of their skirts. Strangely\\nenough, a certain tribe of Central Africa, among whom\\nimmorality is very rare, explain this by the fact that\\ntheir unmarried women go about in a state of\\nnudity.\\nThe natives of Grand Canary were the most osten-\\ntatious in their attire. They dyed their goat-skins, and\\nworked them into helmets, as well as long-fringed and\\ndecorated gowns. In Fuerteventura, feathers were\\nworn in the caps. Sheep-skins, unshorn, were the\\nfashion in Hierro the woolly side served for the\\nwinter, and in summer the coat was reversed.\\nPedro Bontier and Juan le Verrier, the two chap-\\nlains who accompanied Bethencourt in his invasion of\\nthe Canaries in 1402, have left us a record of their\\ncomparative opinion of the islanders. As a whole,\\nthey considered them the finest people in the world", "height": "3736", "width": "2344", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "SOME CANARIAN CUSTOMS.\\n79\\nbut doubtless they wrote with a very limited know-\\nledge of the world. The natives of Lanzarote and\\nFuerteventura were compassionate, though stern\\nfriendly and sociable and fond of dancing and music.\\nThose of Gomera were clever at feats of skill and\\nthe chase. Hierro shared with Palma a people of\\nmelancholy temperament. The Grand Canarians\\nwere lively, brave, and amiable, though, according to\\nEuropean judgment, treacherous. The Guanches\\nwere strong, active, warlike, modest, generous, and\\nhonourable.\\nFuerteventura boasted of a giant twenty-two feet\\nhigh, and in Tenerife a Guanche of royal blood was\\nsaid to be fourteen feet in height, and furnished with\\neighty teeth.\\nLanzarote and Gomera were singular in certain\\nmatters. The women of the former island were said\\nto be without bosoms they gave their lips to their\\nchildren to suck, which much deformed their appear-\\nance. In Gomera, moreover, it was civil to offer a\\nstranger refreshment of women s milk.\\nPhysically, all the Canarians were robust and long\\nlived. They fed simply, and were abstemious in their\\nmedicines. Gofio, the national food (flour of maize,\\npease, barley, lupins, beans, c), and the meat of\\ntheir flocks, gave them all the solid nourishment they\\nneeded. In Tenerife they used to roast their meat\\nuntil it was almost black when, in their opinion, it\\nwas most nutritious and palatable. Rancid goat s\\nbutter was the foundation of most of their medica-\\nments. Whey served as a cathartic. They combated\\nwith honey the colics and diarrhoea which were", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "8o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntroublesome then as now in the islands. Surgical\\noperations were performed with knives of obsidian.\\nSosa, writing in 1678, says that in his day the same\\nrude knives were used, and used successfully, in the\\ncountry districts of Grand Canary, for letting blood,\\nand for chirurgery in general.\\nThus the islanders lived happily to the age of a\\nhundred, or thereabouts. Only in Palma do we hear\\nof them anticipating the summons of nature, near the\\nclose of life. Here, when an invalid came to the con-\\nclusion that death was preferable to life, he convoked\\nhis friends and relatives, and told them that he wished\\nto die. They seem to have regarded such a wish\\nas unalterable for the sick man was promptly carried\\nto a cave, laid on a pile of skins, with a jug of milk\\nby his head. The mouth of the cave was then blocked\\nup, and the invalid was left to die in solitude.\\nThe dwellings of the Canarians were as simple as\\ntheir manner of life. Caves abound in the volcanic\\ntufa of the islands, and they were largely in-\\nhabited.\\nTo this day, on the south side of Tenerife, and else-\\nwhere in the other islands, thousands of the people\\nmake these caves into commodious homes, delight-\\nfully cool in the summer heats. Small huts, thatched\\nwith straw or boughs, and centring round a natural\\npalm-trunk, were also used. In Lanzarote and Fuer-\\nteventura, the portals of the dwellings were some-\\ntimes fancifully chiselled but their entrances were\\nso diminutive that it was necessary to crawl through\\nthem and the smell within, from deficient ventila-\\ntion, and their habit of curing meat in the living", "height": "3740", "width": "2348", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "DOMESTIC FURNITURE.\\n8\\napartments, was disagreeable. In Hierro they built\\nround houses of stone, roofed and thatched with\\nboughs and straw.\\nThe furniture of these primitive abodes was not\\nluxurious. A hand mill for the gofio was essential.\\nThis consisted of two round stones, such as are still\\nin common use among the Canarian peasantry. The\\nbeds were of straw, and they and the stone seats\\nwhich served them for chairs were bespread with\\nskins. Sea shells made capital spoons. Fish bones\\nor palm spines were worked into needles. The\\nhorns of goats made rude but strong small ploughs.\\nSplinters of pine were natural torches still much in\\nrequest. Earthen pots of an uncouth kind were\\neasily made. Add to these trifles, the kid skins for\\nholding the gofio, cords of gut, and the various\\nweapons of the country (clubs studded with flints,\\nlances and javelins with fire-hardened points, shields\\nof dragon-wood, axes of obsidian, c.) and the house-\\nhold furniture was complete. It is doubtful if fer-\\nmented liquor was known to them. The Guanches\\nat any rate drank nothing but water and, to preserve\\ntheir teeth, they took this, not at meal-times, but\\nhalf an hour afterwards.\\nThe Guanches, strange to say, seem to have had\\nno method of expressing their ideas or thoughts in\\nwriting, glyphical or otherwise. The solitary dis-\\ncovery of anything of this kind in the archipelago was\\nmade in 1762, when some inscribed basaltic rocks\\nwere found over a cave in Palma. Here in Tacoronte\\nis a copy of these hieroglyphics, Which will probably\\nremain a puzzle to antiquarians to the end of time.\\n7", "height": "3756", "width": "2236", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "82\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nA modern Spanish writer sees in them the general\\nepitaph upon the sepulchre of the entire extinct race\\nof the primitive Palma people. This is conjectural,\\nFacsimiles of the inscriptions on the basaltic stones over the cave of\\nBelmaco, in the island of Palma assumed to have been the dwelling-\\nplace of the princes of Tigalate, one of the twelve royal provinces into\\nwhich the island was divided. The stones were found in 1762.\\nof course, and it is more than possible that their\\ntrue purport is not of so exalted a character.\\nIn concluding this concise record of the manners", "height": "3740", "width": "2340", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "CANARIAN ATHLETICS.\\nS3\\nand life of the old Canarians, two or three illustra-\\ntions of the muscular force and agility of these people\\nmay prove that the Spaniards were likely to find\\nthe acquisition of the Fortunate Isles a task less easy\\nthan they, not unreasonably, expected to find it.\\nThe Grand Canarians were trained from babyhood\\nto be brisk in self-defence. As soon as they could\\ntoddle, they were pelted with earth balls, that they\\nmight learn how to protect themselves. When they\\nwere boys, stones and wooden darts were substituted\\nfor the bits of clay. In this school they acquired the\\nrudiments which enabled them, during their wars\\nwith the Spaniards, to catch in their hands the\\narrows shot from their enemies crossbows.\\nAfter the conquest a Canarian was seen at Seville,\\nwho, for a shilling, let a man throw as many stones at\\nhim as he pleased, from a distance of eight paces.\\nWithout moving his left foot, he avoided every stone.\\nAnother Canarian used to defy any one to hurl an\\norange at him with such rapidity that he could not\\ncatch it. Three men tried this, each with a dozen\\noranges, and the islander caught every orange. On\\nthe same understanding, he hit his antagonists with\\neach of the oranges. Thus disciplined, would not\\nthe Canarians have made the best cricketers in the\\nworld\\nIn the eastern islands, the natives were so agile\\nthat many of them could achieve a high jump of not\\nless than seven to eight feet.\\nAthletic exercises were as much favoured by the\\nCanarians as by the Greeks. They held periodical\\ngames, which were esteemed so important that a", "height": "3744", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "34\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntruce suspended any wars the nation might be en-\\ngaged in. Guests were invited, and the popular\\nattention was wholly devoted to the dances, wrestling\\nmatches, races, stone throwing, jumping, and weight\\nlifting, which were their favourite tests of strength\\nand nimbleness. The games were enlivened by\\nmusic, which varied in the different isles. Sosa says\\nthe melodies of the natives of Hierro affected the\\nbowels of hearers in a singularly sympathetic way.\\nIn Grand Canary, on the other hand, the style was\\nlight and cheerful.\\nThese games were interspersed with a certain\\nnumber of tournaments, between individuals, which\\nhad first to be licensed by the Faycan or high priest.\\nThe combatants were rubbed with fat and the juice\\nof herbs, and, for the improvement of their muscles,\\nhugged the trunks of trees. In due time, they entered\\nthe arena, attended by their respective friends and\\nrelations, and took their stand on a small circular\\nplatform about a yard above the level of the ground.\\nHere they were visible to all the surrounders.\\nThen, each taking a staff with a nob at the end, three\\nsmooth flint pebbles, and some sharper bits of stone,\\nthey began their duel. Their skill in avoiding the\\nstones and blows aimed at each other was extra-\\nordinary, and it is credible that the spectators were\\nthe first- to weary of the monotony of their futile\\nattacks. When this was so, or when one of the\\ncombatants broke his club, the chief warrior who\\npresided at the tournament cried, enough enough\\nand the contest ended with lasting honour to both of\\nthem.", "height": "3736", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "THE RELICS OF THE GUANCHES.\\n85\\nI suppose there is a certain amount of affectation\\nor insincerity in the common phrases used to express\\nregret for the extinction of this or that race of noble\\nsavages. The weakness is sentimental and momen-\\ntary. But if ever it were worth while to wish for a\\nrevival of an uncivilized state of being, methinks one\\nmight welcome a resurrection of the Guanches.\\nAs it is, however, they are hopelessly dead. These\\nuncomely mummies the messes in jars and bottles,\\ncovered with the dust and congelation of ages the\\nblack clubs upon the walls, ludicrously trivial by the\\nside of the repeating rifles and revolvers of this\\ncentury and the jars, skins, and grindstones of their\\nsimple domestic life these trifles in the Tacoronte\\nMuseum, and the myriads of bones littering the caves\\nof the land, are the sole remains of them.\\nThey have been reproached for their feudal form\\nof society and government at the same time that\\nthey have been praised for their Arcadian simplicity\\nand happiness. It is only among such races as the\\nGuanches that feudalism and happiness can co-exist.", "height": "3740", "width": "2220", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VI.\\nThe Gardens of Acclimatization Eccentric trees and shrubs\\nThe dragon tree Orotava Villa The private gardens of\\nthe Villa The Castillo monument The Villa Church de\\nla Concepcion The Dominican nuns and the Jesuit fathers\\nPeriodical eruptions of Teide Philosophy of life in the\\nVilla.\\nFrom Puerto I rode again and again up the steep,\\nslippery, lava-paved highway to the Villa of Orotava.\\nIn two miles we rise two thousand feet. By con-\\ntinuing past the Villa to the top of the faldas or\\nslopes of Tenerife s backbone, in six miles the rise\\nwould be six to seven thousand feet.\\nIt was reckoned a feat of fair endurance to walk to\\nthe Villa on a bright afternoon. The sun then made\\nnothing of the attempts of the palms, eucalypti, and fig\\ntrees to throw shade upon the road and one envied\\nthe lizards that slid like quicksilver to and fro about\\nthe crannies of the walls, charmed with the heat.\\nWhite dresses and parasols could not save the ladies\\nfrom evident exhaustion and gentlemen, with green\\numbrellas and pith helmets, were commonly to be\\nseen resting heavily here and there at different stages\\nof the ascent.\\nThe famous Botanical Gardens or Gardens of", "height": "3740", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "ORIGIA OF THE GARDENS.\\n89\\nAcclimatization stand between the two towns,\\nabout 650 feet above the sea-level. They are en-\\nclosed within palings fit for the Brobdignagians, but\\ntheir cool luxuriance of shade was always welcome\\nwith suggestions of a halt amid the strange trees\\nand flowers which have given them a world-wide\\nreputation.\\nThese gardens owe their origin to the Marquis\\nde Villanueva del Prado, Governor-General of the\\nCanaries late in the eighteenth century. It was\\nthought that, by judicious transplantation from zone\\nto zone, the vegetation of the tropics might eventually\\nbe brought to so robust a condition that it would\\nthrive in Norway as in Brazil. Tenerife offered an\\nexcellent preliminary stage for this experiment. At\\nfirst there was lively hope. The plants of the\\nEquator took kindly to the climate of Orotava.\\nBut, subsequently, the visionary nature of the\\nscheme became evident. Transfer after transfer\\nwas made from Tenerife to Spain, apparently a step\\nof less consequence than from latitude o\u00c2\u00b0 to latitude\\n28 but these transplantations were unsuccessful.\\nAnd it is now acknowledged that such acclimatization\\nis only possible along the same isothermal lines.\\nThe Botanical Gardens of Orotava are therefore\\nmerely a picturesque failure. The Spanish authori-\\nties think they are doing enough in maintaining this\\nchimera at a cost of about \u00c2\u00a340 per annum to the\\nclever botanist who has it under his care. A sum of\\n\u00c2\u00a3200 annually is voted towards it, but of this the\\nbulk goes in expenses which do not benefit the\\ngardens or the gardener. Thus this unique place", "height": "3760", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "yo\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nis neglected and in the hands of a man less enthu-\\nsiastic than M. Wildpret, it would soon become a\\njungle.\\nWhat curious and magnificent specimens of the\\nworld s trees and flowers one sees here March is\\nnot the time for fruit, else I might have eaten custard\\napples and mangoes as if I were in India or the\\nSandwich Islands. Each hot country of the world\\nseems to have contributed a different kind of palm to\\nthe gardens. There are trees with fruit and flowers\\ngerminating in the most erratic manner. One, a single\\ntrunk about ten feet high, terminates skywards in\\na spiral salmon-coloured blossom. Others extrude\\nflowers crimson, blue, yellow, purple, c. in im-\\npossible places like the tips of the leaves. The\\nAustralian fig tree (Ficus impcrialis), a giant fellow,\\nhas clusters of hard figs round the base of the trunk,\\nwhere it rises from the ground. The caoutchouc is\\nas much at home here as in the East and the\\nbanyan tree, with its bevy of connected saplings,\\nsheltering under it like chickens under the hen. As\\nfor the eucalypti and pines of various kinds, the\\ndifficulty is not to induce them to grow, but to\\nprevent them from injuring other plants by their\\nexuberance.\\nThese gardens are a true banquet of the senses.\\nTo the Spaniards of the district, however, they are,\\nperhaps, more interesting as a rendezvous for occa-\\nsional concerts. At such a time one may admire,\\nunder brilliant conditions, the grace of movement\\nof the Spanish ladies in full toilet. But con-\\nceive how one is likely to be blind to the charms", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3732", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "A DRAGON TREE.", "height": "3744", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "THE DRAGON TREE.\\n93\\nof the brightest of eyes, when the cheeks beneath\\nthem are smeared with powder Under the garish\\nnoontide sun, these girls, in spite of their actual\\ninnocence and beauty, impressed me like a troop of\\nunfortunates patrolling between the London lamp-\\nposts, The peasant women, in their bright-coloured\\nsilk head-dresses, and natural brown, were, on the\\nother hand, attractive enough. And it was delight-\\nful to watch their excitement when, at intervals\\nduring the afternoon, common paper balloons were,\\nwith immense fuss, filled, and sent into the air by\\nthe public functionaries.\\nBut of all the odd trees in the Orotava Gardens,\\nif not in the world, the dragon tree (Dracczna draco)\\nis perhaps the oddest. It is common in the islands, but\\nuncommon elsewhere. Early in this century, in the\\ngarden of the Marquis de Sauzal, in the Villa, there\\nstood one of these trees measuring 60 feet in height,\\n48J feet in circumference at the base, and 23! feet\\nnearly five yards from the ground. Humboldt com-\\nputed its age at 10,000 years. No doubt he spoke\\nat random but, as there exists a little dragon tree\\nknown to be 400 years old, and as this tree is not yet\\na foot in circumference, it. is clear the veteran had\\nlived through many centuries. Since Humboldt s\\ntime, however, the tree has died of old age and\\nstorms, and only the memory of it remains.\\nMany are the legends begotten of the dragon tree\\nin the Canaries. It is supposed to have a close\\ninterest in the country and people round about its\\ntrunk. When it blossoms (which it does but seldom),\\na good harvest and myriads of common flowers are", "height": "3760", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "94\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nanticipated. When it bleeds, misfortune threatens\\nthe community or individuals. 1 And when it falls, I\\nsuppose the impending ruin is prodigious.\\nEven as the Canary Islands are said to be the\\nGardens of the Hesperides, so the dragon tree is\\nidentified with the dragon that guards the golden\\napples of these happy realms. The golden apples\\nare somewhat tamely associated with the modern\\norange.\\nOne antiquarian discerns the outline of a dragon\\nin the pulp of the fruit of this tree. A French writer\\ngoes further, and avers that the tree is no tree, but\\na congregation of living animalcule, 6,000,000 of\\nwhich go to a cubic inch. Such bizarre tricks will\\nthe imagination play even the best controlled of in-\\ntellects\\nBut, in truth, the tree seems to be merely a\\nmammoth breed of asparagus, gifted with extreme\\nlongevity. As for the dragon s blood, that is the\\nreddish sap of the tree. This resinous exusion,\\nwhich oozes easily from a knife-cut, was for long one\\nof the most valuable of the island exports. European\\napothecaries attracted by the name had as strong\\na fancy for it as for the Guanche mummies, which\\nthey beat with their pestles into various disagreeable\\nmedicines of price.\\nIn appearance, the dragon tree is a symmetrical\\ncandelabra. The corrugated trunk rises free from\\nbranches until it attains a certain altitude. Then\\nthe boughs diverge with extreme regularity, and in\\n1 Cuando la sangre del drago salta,\\nLlegar la desdicha nunca falta.", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "OROTAVA VILLA.\\n95\\ntheir turn beget symmetrical twigs, tufted with sharp\\nolive-coloured leaves. In justice to the tree, and in\\nthe face of its fabulous credentials, I ought to add\\nthat toothpicks made from its timber are reputed to\\nbe good for the gums. 1\\nFrom the Acclimatization Gardens it is a steep\\nbut beautiful stroll to the Villa. M. Leclerq, in the\\npleasant account of his impressions of Tenerife,\\nwrites of this part as une debauche de vegetation.\\nIt is truly a debauch of the most enjoyable kind.\\nNot even Corfu, with its high hedges of roses, can\\ncompare with the road beneath the Villa of Orotava\\nfor the luxuriance of its blossoms.\\nOrotava the Arautapala of the Guanches was\\nthe place in all Tenerife most favoured by the\\nSpaniards. The noblest of De Lugo s followers\\nreceived allotments here after the conquest: Trujillo,\\nJoven, Valdes, Vina, Gallego, Medina, c, are some\\nof the names that have helped to raise Orotava in its\\nown and its neighbours esteem. So early as 1522\\nthe town had a reputation for good blood, and\\nthereafter it continued to keep its celebrity by the\\nmagnificence of its residents and the number of con-\\nventual establishments it erected and supported.\\nNowadays, to the visitor who goes through its\\nsteep grassy streets, mindful of its past fortunes,\\nOrotava is hardly less forlorn than Laguna. Its\\nmonastic houses have fallen to ruin, or been turned\\nto secular purposes many of its ancient nobility\\n1 The dragon s blood was also one of the ingredients in the dye\\nused by the Venetian ladies in the production of their famous\\ngolden hair.", "height": "3736", "width": "2292", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "9 6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nhave vanished others have fallen in the world like\\nthe monasteries, and, though they still live in their\\nancestral houses, with imposing armorial bearings\\nover the portals, they have perforce put aside the\\nexclusiveness of the grandee, and turned their atten-\\ntion to trade and the science of money-making.\\nAmong the few nobles still in Orotava are the\\nMarquis de Sauzal, whose name will long be coupled\\nwith the phenomenal dragon tree already mentioned;\\nand the Marquis de la Candia, whose family name\\nof Cologan shows that Ireland has a prior claim to\\nhim. To the transitory visitor, these gentlemen are\\nmerely the proprietors of beautiful gardens, which,\\nwith a large generosity, they open to strangers as\\nfreely as to themselves. But the man who is privi-\\nleged to make their acquaintance in domestic life\\nwill remember them for other reasons. I hope I\\nmay not soon forget the dark eyes and sweet expres-\\nsion of Donna Eustachia, the younger daughter of\\nthe house of Cologan, or the wit and vivacity of\\nDonna Beatrix, the elder. These ladies themselves\\nacted as bright cicerones through their gardens.\\nThere was much to see, and notably the famous\\nchestnut tree dating from the conquest, which has\\ndied twice, and twice has renewed its life from the\\nheart of the ruin. The bulk of its timber is im-\\nmense, and so graciously contorted that the artist\\nwho sees it, and does not immediately want to make\\na drawing of it, is reckoned to be a very insensible\\ncreature.\\nThe garden of the Marquis de Sauzal is even more\\ninteresting, as a garden, than that of the Cologans.", "height": "3740", "width": "2324", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "THE FREEMASON S TOMB. 97\\nBut methought the liberality of its owner was some-\\nwhat abused by the invasion of it, through the\\nmarble halls of the dwelling-house, by a knot of\\nragged little boys, who sought for pence by showing\\nus its treasures, and who picked nosegays of rare\\nexotics, and offered them to us with as much courtesy\\nas impudence.\\nOne more of the many gardens which make the\\nVilla so enchanting must be mentioned. This is\\nreally a beautiful terrace of flowers looking down to\\nthe sea, all devoted to the embellishment of a single\\ntomb. The tomb is of Carrara marble, dome-shaped,\\nreplete with exquisite detail, and approached by a\\nstately tier of steps. But the occupant does not yet\\ninhabit the monument, though he died five years\\nago. The work is said to have cost $100,000. The\\ndead man, however, was a freemason and the\\nChurch withheld the licence necessary for an inter-\\nment of this kind. The bitterness of the inscription\\non the tomb may be forgiven to the mother of the\\nman it commemorates\\nMater ejus Domina D. Sebastiana del Castillo\\nHoc monumentum vovet, velut tarn cari capitis\\nDesiderio solatium datum et compensationem injuriae\\nOuam hinc Christiano benigno prsedito ingenio nobilique\\nlam mortuo conata est inferre intolerandia religiosa.\\nAnno MDCCCLXXXIL\\nTo my mind, the church of Orotava is the most\\npleasing in the island. Its exterior, thanks to the\\ndome and turrets, and the elaborate, if rather gross,\\nsculpture on its facade, is more imposing than the\\n8", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "9 8\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nCathedral of Laguna and its proportions are good\\nthroughout. The old frescoes in the dome are\\ncurious especially the one symbolical of the wash-\\ning away of the sins of the world through the blood\\nof Christ. The Virgin holds the child Jesus, while\\ncrimson streams flow from His hands and feet and\\nside over a blue globe beneath Him. The virtues\\nand vices are also boldly depicted in allegory. Near\\nthe pulpit itself a gem of simple design, there is\\nsome graceful originality in the sculptor s work.\\nThe base of the columns is chiselled into banana\\nleaves and pods they are so good that an acanthus\\nwould make but a poor figure by the side of them.\\nIn the Sauzal Chapel, to the north of the building,\\nmoreover, there is some woodwork, richly gilt, behind\\nand over the altar, which makes one think highly of\\nthe Spanish artificers of the sixteenth and seventeenth\\ncenturies. The life of the Virgin is depicted on this\\nscreen, wholly in carved work the annunciation,\\nconception, circumcision, c. The church is dedi-\\ncated to the Conception, and dates from the begin-\\nning of the sixteenth gentury. Proclamations of\\nrejoicing for the accession of Charles V. to the\\nthrone were made here on the 22nd June, 15 16, as\\nwell as in Laguna.\\nViera tells a story about the conduct of some\\nDominican nuns here, which gives a curious picture\\nof earlier life in Orotava. These Jadies migrated\\nfrom Laguna to Orotava in 1632, and lived in monastic\\nease in this fair valley for the term of their lives.\\nTheir successors had the misfortune to be burned out\\nof their convent in 1717. For the ensuing year, they", "height": "3736", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "THE UNSCRUPULOUS NUNS.\\n99\\naccepted temporary quarters, though their distaste\\nfor these unconventual walls waxed stronger every\\nday. It happened that there was in Orotava at that\\ntime a house of Jesuits which had lost its old impor-\\ntance, and, though commodious and healthy, gave\\nlodging to but two men, the Rector of the house,\\nand his assistant. Upon this building, the nuns cast\\ntheir eyes, and early one day a band of forty of them\\nadvanced against it, determined, if they could, to\\nappropriate it. By strategy, they induced the Jesuit\\nbrother to open the outer gate, and then they all\\ntrooped into the courtyard, and fell upon their knees,\\nto thank God for this preliminary success. Vain was\\nit for the Rector to join his subordinate in earnestly\\nrepresenting to them what a scandal they were likely\\nto cause by their behaviour. The nuns for the time\\nput aside their more sacred character, and appeared\\nmerely as very resolute women, strong in the knowledge\\nthat they were as twenty to one in the trial of power\\nthat was at hand. Father Andrew, this is a large\\ncage for so few birds! they exclaimed. A few, more\\nreasonable, calmly explained that they were in real\\nneed of a house to hold forty or more, and that they\\nhoped Father Andrew and his colleague would not\\nrefuse the spouses of Jesus this asylum that\\nseemed meant for them. The Rector then fled to\\nthe sacristy, locking the door behind him. From\\nthis safe retreat, he exhorted his colleague to be of\\ngood cheer. Patience, brother, and do your best\\nto extricate yourself from those ladies. The un-\\nsupported and harassed brother, however, with diffi-\\nculty saved himself from the nails of the excited nuns.\\nLofC.", "height": "3728", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "IOO\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThis lasted for three or four hours. The town\\nknew all about it, and bands of young men watched\\nthe proceedings from the bars of the outer gate, stu-\\ndiously neutral in their sympathies. But eventually\\nthe Jesuits had to yield, and abandon their building\\nto the ladies, who continued to occupy it until a new\\nconvent to their taste was duly erected.\\nThe Villa has endured many worse experiences than\\nthis revolt of its nuns. Conflagrations have .lowered\\nthe pride of its buildings. Locusts have swarmed\\nupon it, and eaten the vicinity as bare as a new-born\\nbabe. And, worst of all, earthquakes and volcanic\\neruptions, above or below it, have sent its inhabitants\\nflying over the fields in terror and neither our Lady\\nof Candelaria nor the Holy Eucharist, though with\\npriestly pomp brought into their midst, have been\\nable to comfort them, or avert the evil. For it can\\nnever be forgotten that Orotava lies at the foot\\nof Teide. Whether the mountain be visible, or\\nscreened by clouds, one feels that it is near. About\\nonce in a century, 1 it breaks forth in eruption.\\nFrom such perils, Orotava is fairly shielded by the\\ngreat bar of mountains which enclose it. Else it\\nwere a sublime sight to see the lava fall in a\\nfiery cascade over the lip of the rocks. As for\\nthe likelihood of the upheaval of another moun-\\ntain in the valley itself, though it might burst\\nup in the heart of the town (even as in Lanzarote, in\\n182S, a volcano abruptly rose in the middle of a field\\nof barley), no sensible resident will vex himself by\\n1 1390, 1430, 1492* 1603, 1605, 1705, 1706, 1798.", "height": "3732", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3756", "width": "2292", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "WISE INDIFFERENCE.\\n103\\nentertaining so very disquieting a fancy. A dweller\\non the thigh of an active volcano has no concern\\nwith the future. Thus the placid souls of the Villa\\nfly kites against each other from the roofs of their\\nhouses, attend mass and the cockfights, love, eat,\\nsing, and sleep, without a thought of what may at\\nany moment come down upon them like the crack\\nof doom.", "height": "3728", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VII.\\nA tour round Tenerife The boys and the bell-tower The con-\\nfiguration of Tenerife Barrancos Zones of temperature\\nRealejo, Upper and Lower Bencomo and Realejo The\\nChurch of Rambla Icod The dragon tree The sad\\ncitizen Garachico The story of 1706 The drunken\\nprisoner Sunset on the Peak Playing the pedagogue.\\nWhen first I projected my tour of the island, I had\\ndecided to go alone. It seemed both unwise and un-\\nnecessary to encumber myself with a guide who\\nwas sure to be ignorant of the country he professed\\nto know who might fall ill by the way, and require\\ncareful treatment and who would certainly be ham-\\npered by scruples, religious and otherwise, to deter\\nus from entering a town or village at festival time.\\nBut Lorenzo Despacho, from whom I hired the mare,\\nput pressure upon me.\\nIt is fifty leagues, Senor. The mare is a good\\nmare Caramba though it is her master that says\\nso. But suppose she lose a shoe\\nIn that case, my good Lorenzo, if she cannot\\nproceed without it, we must replace it, said I.\\nWithout doubt, Senor but how And who will\\nlook after her corn How will your worship know\\nthat she gets more than half what you pay for Not", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "THE BOY JOSE.\\nby the aspect of her stomach, Senor for it is a world\\nnot wholly good, and there are many bad ways of\\nswelling the mare, without properly nourishing her.\\nAnd perhaps if I may be pardoned for saying so\\nyou do not talk Spanish sufficiently well to relieve\\nyourself from a difficulty when you are among\\nstrangers.\\nWell, in effect, what am I to do\\nTake the boy Jose with you, Senor. He will be\\na comfort to you. Ave Maria I should think so.\\nWhenever you are in trouble, with perhaps a broken\\nleg or an arm, he will shout and the boy can make\\nhis sister, at work in the fields, a mile off, hear him\\nquite distinctly. He will call to some one, and ask,\\nand all will be well. As for the mare, she has an\\naffection for Jose, and will do at his bidding what I\\ndo not think, Senor, she would do for you and the\\nstick good quiet horse that she is And for the\\ncost, it shall be only a shilling the day the more,\\nwhich is, of course, nothing.\\nI did not want the boy, as I have said neverthe-\\nless, he came. He was not quite new to me, for a\\nday or two before, in visiting the parochial church of\\nPuerto, I had seen him, in company with other little\\nboys, amusing himself at the altar with a number of\\ncandles as long as his body. One of these boys, a\\nchild of twelve, had told me that he was the sacristan\\nof the church, and in that capacity he showed me\\nall the ecclesiastical treasures of the building, from\\nthe monster Maria behind the altar, already being\\nrobed in sad-coloured velvets for the stately proces-\\nsions of Holy Week, to the little glass flagon, silver-", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "io6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntopped, containing the residue of some sacramental\\nwine, much bescummed, which had been used I for-\\nget how many years ago. When I had seen the\\nchurch and its dull old pictures to my contentment,\\nwe all ascended to the bell tower, to look down upon\\nthe town. Here were three bells, the largest bearing\\ndate 1671 and I was so interested in this large bell\\nthat when the boy Jose suggested that I should sound\\nit, I did not hesitate to swing the tongue against the\\nsides in the common way. The tone was loud and mel-\\nlifluous; but on hearing it all the boys, headed by the\\nsacristan, fled down the steps, gasping with mirth.\\nHowever, as it was nothing to me if I had given un-\\ntimely warning of some holy hour, I stayed among\\nthe bells until I had seen enough of the town, and\\nthen descended, and went off to my hotel. From this\\nexperience, I fancied that Jose might prove a rogue.\\nOn the contrary, however, for in the matter of separa-\\nting his hours of business from his hours of play, he\\nwas a boy singularly gifted.\\nWe started betimes on a sunny March morning.\\nThe mare took kindly to me from the outset, and I\\nshall have nothing but praise to say of her. Jose\\ncarried my knapsack for it was unbecoming in a\\ncaballero to be burdened with aught save a bit of\\nstick tufted with horsehair, to use in warfare with the\\nflies. The boy wore his yellow leather boots until\\nwe were out of the town. Then he slung them over\\nhis shoulder instead, and chanted disturbing mad-\\nrigals at the top of his voice. I learnt to know that\\nwhenever I wished to depress the boy s spirits, I had\\nbut to tell him to get into his boots. Instantly there-", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3724", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "OUTLINE OF TENERIFE.\\n09\\nafter his lip fell, and in glum silence he trudged in\\nthe track of the mare, with the nerveless swing of a\\nsouth country tramp who has seen all his bright days.\\nBut as on such occasions he became also very\\nthickheaded, failing to understand the simplest re-\\nmark, however well accented, I was generally as\\nwilling to have him barefooted as he was glad to be so.\\nA few additional words about the configuration\\nand natural scenery of Tenerife are, I think, here\\nneedful for the better understanding of the scheme\\nand pleasures of our little tour. The importance\\nof the Peak is already made plain. Some geologists\\nsay indeed, that the Peak is all the island, that from\\nthe shoreline of the entire fifty leagues of circuit, the\\nland moulds itself upwards simply and solely to help\\nin the achievement of the Peak, its pinnacle. But\\nthis is a disputed point, soluble only by a very minute\\ninvestigation into the nature and age of the various\\nmountain masses of Tenerife. The Peak is thought\\nto be a very steep hill. In fact, however, the average\\nangle of its acclivity from the sea-level to the sum-\\nmit does not exceed 12 or 13 The ascent begins at\\nPuerto, about twelve miles distant from the sugar\\ncone, which is the top of it. It is this cone that one\\nsees from the Atlantic, fifty or a hundred miles\\naway. The rest of the island is usually mantled in\\nthe clouds which Teide draws around its loins during\\nthe greater part of the year. And it is the aspect of\\nthe abrupt isolated cone, suspended between heaven\\nand earth, that makes one think the mountain must\\nbe a very complete test of the pluck and tenacity of\\na climber.", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "no\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThe scenery of Tenerife is uniquely varied. You\\nmay choose your climate on this small island\\nin the Atlantic as emphatically as if you had a\\ncontinent at your disposal and of course the\\nvegetation varies with the temperature. In Puerto,\\nfor example, we lived amid palms, bananas and\\nflowering oleanders. Here the heat, even in March,\\nafter early morning, made movement laborious. Not\\nthat the thermometer marked a high register. But\\nthe air is so dry, that one s strength seemed to\\nevaporate from the body in quest of the moisture it\\nwould like, but cannot get. We lived under sub-\\ntropical conditions.\\nBut at an altitude of 3,000 feet above Puerto, the\\nclimate is, of course, colder and more bracing. From\\npotatoes and apple orchards, one looks down at the\\nsunlit rocks and sands of Orotava, a singular con-\\ntrast to the grey gloom of the cloud which up here\\nhangs motionless and indissoluble for days at a time.\\nIn this zone of country, the goats of Tenerife live\\nand thrive. They descend daily to the coast towns\\nto be milked, and then again climb the weary hills\\nto feed themselves fitly for the morrow s milking.\\nAbove this zone of chestnut and apple trees is the\\nzone of laurels. After the laurels come the heaths,\\ngrowing gigantic at a height of from four to five\\nthousand feet above the sea. The bright yet low\\nCanarian pines (Pinus Canaricnsis) follow the heaths,\\nand struggle into life among the arid disintegrating\\nlava and powdered pumice which here cover the hot\\nrocks.\\nBut when we have left the red roofs of Orotava", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "BARRANCOS. Ill\\nabout 7,000 feet below us, and have also overtopped\\nthe very cloud which girdles the island, there is no\\nvegetation to cheer the eye save the silver-grey\\nbushes of the retama [Spartium nubigenum). The\\nPeak rises from the centre of a parching infertile\\nplateau of yellow pumice sand about twenty miles in\\ncircuit. In the whole of this elevated expanse, there\\nis not one habitation. The solitary traveller who,\\nfrom fatigue or other disabling cause, here chanced\\nto die, might, by the action of the sun, and the pure\\ndesiccating air, be transformed into an excellent\\nmummy, ere a wandering goatherd, a iievcro (snow-\\ngatherer), or a sulphur worker discovered his body.\\nOne other characteristic of the country must be\\nnoticed the barrancos. These deep cuts in the\\nbody of the land radiate from the old crater or\\nplateau from which the cone of the Peak ascends, and\\nthey terminate only at the coast. I do not know\\nhow many dozen of them there are on the north-west\\nand south sides of the island, with depths to be\\nbottomed by the traveller varying from about\\nfifteen hundred to two thousand feet. Some are\\ndug with sides nearly perpendicular. In such\\ncases, the track of descent and ascent is a perilous\\nzigzag path scratched in the rock walls a path\\nmoreover which the prickly pear trees do their\\nbest to expunge by the persistency with which\\nthey mat their formidable arms across it. It is\\nprudent to leave horse or mule to itself in these\\nbavvancos one s own feet are a sufficiently onerous\\nresponsibility. And, that the stranger may have his\\nblood upon his own head, if he determine to be reck-", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "112\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nless in these ravines, sundry rude little crosses\\nappear in awkward places, to commemorate this or\\nthat fatal accident and the peasant whom destiny\\nhas given you for a temporary roadfellow, will enu-\\nmerate those of his acquaintance who have fallen\\nover the rocks into the dry blue river bed six or\\nseven hundred feet down just as you might fall if\\nyou slipped to the left that self-same moment. When\\nI had made acquaintance with two or three of the\\nbarrancos of Tenerife, I began to bless Lorenzo that\\nhe had given me Jose to hold the mare.\\nBut we were spared these particular trials on the\\nfirst day of our journey. We were to sleep at a\\nlittle town called Icod, whither the high road goes\\nnearly all the way. For the most part, we kept about\\na thousand feet above the sea, with a wall of rock\\nmany hundred feet high on the left hand, and, on the\\nright, a jungle of useful vegetation to the shoreline.\\nMaiden hair and other ferns grew large from the\\nmidst of a hanging garden of brambles, wild vines,\\nscrub fig and caroub, and the water drops dripped\\nfrom the leaves into a careful canal which dispersed\\nthe precious liquor among the beans, potatoes, and\\nbananas on the other side of the road.\\nThere are two pucblocitos or small towns, be-\\ntween Orotava and Icod Realejo and Rambla.\\nRealejo is built well up a steep slope, with a\\nravine crossing the slope, and dividing the town into\\ntwo parts. It is a pretty place, with its white church\\ntower rising above the houses, and the eccentric\\nbranches of its dragon trees one over the other*\\nIts warm climate is shown in the wealth of its", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "REALEJO.\\ngreenery and magnificent trees. The church of the\\nlower town is interesting for the queer carved heads\\non its portal, and for its very extraordinary picture\\non the ordinary subject of the world to come. In\\nthis picture, men and women are seen up to their\\ngirths in the fires of hell, looking as much at home\\nwith each other, and the element to which they are\\ncondemned, as a group of French people in the sea at\\nBoulogne.\\nThe two villages of Upper and Lower Realejo are\\nbuilt on the site of prime incidents in the history of\\nthe conquest. Bencomo, the king of Taoro, and\\nchief prince of Tenerife, had retreated before De\\nLugo and his Spaniards, to this the extremity of his\\nprincipality. For two years he had held the\\nSpaniards at bay. But the terrible pestilence of\\nLaguna, which carried off thousands of Guanches in\\na few weeks, made the rest of the natives weak, and\\nan easy prey to the scientific blockade which, later,\\nthe leader of the invaders instituted. After the\\npestilence, and thanks to it, the Spaniards held the\\nland at their mercy. But, for a crowning combat, the\\ntwo armies of Guanches armed with clubs, obsidian\\naxes, and fire-hardened javeJins of wood and of\\nSpaniards in coats of mail, leathern jerkins, and\\nwith all the weapons of contemporary European\\nusage put themselves into position on this slope,\\nabout 800 feet above the sea.\\nRealejo is the Spanish for camp. And it was\\nhere, where the spire of the church of Upper\\nRealejo marks the land, that poor old Bencomo\\ndetermined to arrest further slaughter of his people\\n9", "height": "3760", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "U4\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nby resigning his realm to the king of Spain, on con-\\ndition that the Guanche natives were not despoiled\\nof their property, and by accepting the baptism that\\nthe Spaniards pressed upon him as one of the chief\\narticles in his bond of surrender. But it is veiy\\nabsurd of Viana to make the Guanche king express\\njoy in his abdication of sovereignty, and a humble ac-\\nknowledgment of the superior claims of Ferdinand of\\nSpain to the island of the great Tinerfe Though\\nI lose in temporal things, I gain in eternal glory.\\nFerdinand alone is worthy of being king here and\\nthough I am unworthy to be his vassal, I am more\\nhonoured in obeying him than in being king of\\nTenerife. In fact, however, the generous\\nmonarch paid the penalty for his confidence in the\\nwords of the Spaniards. They took him to Europe,\\nagainst his wishes, where he graced the triumph of\\nDe Lugo, and afterwards died. If Viana, in his\\neccentric epic, narrating the love of Dacil. Bencomo s\\ndaughter, for Castillo, a lieutenant in De Lugo s\\narmy, had been able to tell us the real history of the\\nend of the king of Taoro, I doubt not the pathos of it\\nwould have been in singular contrast to the inflated\\ncantos in which he describes the king s gratitude for\\nand appreciation of his baptism.\\nOnce only on our way to Icod did we descend to\\nthe sea-level. This was at the cheerless little town\\nof Rambla. It is built on a black promontory of\\nlava, the rough edges and scoriae of which are dismal\\nto behold. Nevertheless, it is not wholly a place of\\ngloom. For the blue sea was breaking into white\\nfoam upon its distorted rocks, and the industry of", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3736", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "BALCONY IN SAN JUAN DE LA RAMBLA.", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "THE CHURCH OF RAMBLA.\\n117\\nthe townspeople had erected gardens in the middle\\nof this small wilderness so that the bright verdure\\nof vines, maize and potatoes, w T ith the dull red roofs\\nof the houses, and the olive and grey balconies, made\\na show of colour. Inland, we could track the lava\\nflow up the mountain side, until it was lost to sight\\namong the spurs of the Peak. But, in fact, the two\\nleagues of coast between Rambla and Garachico,\\nwhich is beyond Icod, is a tract of land terribly\\nruined by the outflows from Teide at one time or\\nanother. The road winds between monster cinder-\\nheaps, which recall the banks in our own Black\\nCountry. But the heat of this unshaded expanse is\\nhotter than Staffordshire at its hottest nor can our\\nBlack Country show the prickly pear and aloes which\\ngrow between the charred and decomposing boulders\\nof this forlorn part of Tenerife.\\nI visited the church of Rambla, but with no lively\\nexpectations. As a rule, the church architecture of\\nTenerife has little originality. It is the ambition of\\nevery small town to have a fine bell-tower, in which\\nthe boys may stand to knock the bells at their con-\\nvenience. After the bell-tower, I think an altar to\\nthe Virgin de la Concepcion is most fancied. I\\nwonder how many of these figures I have seen in\\nthe Canaries, all modelled upon Murillo s beautiful\\nVirgin in the Louvre Gallery, but with such variety\\nof execution and adornment S. Lorenzo is another\\nfamous subject for a local altar, and the statue is\\nsometimes provided with a large gridiron that could\\nonly have come from a Birmingham factory.\\nHere at Rambla, however, I was suddenly im-", "height": "3744", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "n8\\n\\\\THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nmersed in an atmosphere of perfume, when I pushed\\naside the heavy wooden door. It was the Friday\\nbefore Palm Sunday and in preparation for the day\\nthe pavement was littered with the petals of roses\\nand red geraniums, and the many little altars of\\nthis little church were bedecked with boughs of\\nbloom of various kinds. A number of women were\\nkneeling among the rose leaves, and, in the far\\nend, by the altar, there peeped from the eave of his\\nconfessional the round head of a priest, who was\\nlistening to the murmur of a penitent at his feet.\\nOf course the ladies for the moment forgot their\\ndevotions when they saw a man in riding dress and\\nheavy boots come crushing amid the flowers on the\\nfloor. They fell a whispering and fanning themselves,\\nand those of them who were very far gone in world-\\nliness touched their faces, to ascertain if the powder\\nstill lay upon their cheeks in a comely manner. But,\\nin justice to them and the father in his confessional,\\nwho peered forth several times with an unamiable\\nexpression on his broad countenance, and in justice\\nto myself also, I did not stay long in the little church.\\nSuch a curious, unreal, mannikin place of worship\\nI never saw before. From the coro in the west,\\nwith its banisters spotted with white mould, and its\\nrafters a dull scarlet, green, and gold, to the flash of\\nthe same colours in the east of the church, with a\\nlittle blue added to the prevalent green and gold, the\\nwhole seemed to me like a somewhat stale old dolls\\nhouse of a large size, with groups of eccentric moveable\\ndolls set about the pavement. The very lintel of the\\nporch, and the crossbeams within the church, were", "height": "3732", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "THE ICOD INN\\n119\\ncoloured with dry rot, and the flags under my feet\\noscillated as I moved from one to another. The dust\\nof the early Spaniards who lay under the loose\\nstones of the nave must long ago have evaporated\\namong the congregation, and got re-incorporated with\\nthem.\\nIt was one o clock before the mare set her hoofs\\nupon the slippery grass-grown cobbles of the streets\\nof Icod. Though we had done but half a day s\\nwork, we were all tired the animal of the rough\\ndusty track and the flies I of the heat of the sun,\\nand the labour entailed in freeing her from the more\\nvenomous of the flies and Jose of an empty\\nstomach. To the Plaza de la Concepcion, where\\nthere is an inn, we therefore made our anxious way,\\nfor the time heedless of the beauty of the town\\nand its surroundings.\\nThe landlady proved to be a kind soul, and a little\\nmore resolute than a Spanish hotel-keeper is wont\\nto be in the welcome of a guest to the bare boards\\nof his building. A bedroom was at my disposal. It\\ncontained nothing in the world save a couple of\\nsmall beds, and a coruscating chromo of the Virgin\\nbut, as she said, what more was wanted? And, while\\nmy breakfast was being prepared, I might choose\\nbetween the salon adjoining the bedroom, where was\\na dusty sofa on unsound legs, some chairs, and a\\nlarge mirror covered with tinsel to protect it from\\nthe flies, and the roof of the hotel, a promenade\\nrenowned for its splendour.\\nIndeed, once I was on this roof, I was ready to\\nvie with any one in praise of Icod. It has a won-", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "120\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nderful situation, on the actual northern slope of the\\nPeak. Imagine a glacial mass proceeding straight\\nfrom the summit of a mountain to the sea,\\nbetween high precipitous rocks, and with a town\\nbuilt on it, half-way in its course. Such, in some\\nsort, is the aspect of Icod. In a direct line, the cone\\nof the Peak cannot be more than six or seven miles\\nfrom the houses of the town and, from the white\\nroof of the little inn, I looked at the broad swelling\\nmountain, with its snowy cap closing the upland\\nview, all in the full glow of glorious sunshine, and\\npronounced Icod divine. And this was the place to\\nwhich the old inhabitants of Taoro used to banish\\ntheir criminals Here, too, in the last century, the\\nSpanish Government for awhile kept the Marquis de\\nla Villa de San Andres in exile, pending an inquiry\\ninto the guilt that was imputed to him\\nClose to the inn, among the onions and potatoes\\nof a useful patch, is a huge dragon tree, from\\nwhich, while examining it-, under the guidance of\\nits owner, I was allowed to cut off a shoot. What\\npain I caused to it I cannot of course tell. It\\ndid not shriek like the mandrake. But when, after-\\nwards, from sheer wantonness, I plunged my knife\\ninto its side, there trickled forth, one, two, three\\nthick drops of red blood. Oh, yes it lives, re-\\nmarked its owner, without doubt it lives Then\\nI retired, not without a fancy that there was a\\ndim but horrific menace in the myriads of its spear-\\nshaped leaves.\\nI bore a letter of introduction to a rich citizen,\\nwho was also the doctor of Icod. He came to see", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "THE ICOD CITIZEN.\\n121\\nme while I was engaged with the puchero,\\nMany years ago he had lived in the American\\nStates, but his English had rusted from disuse\\nand he was a man of so humble a turn that he\\nchose rather to speak little than to speak ill. I\\npraised the glory of the place he had fixed upon\\nto cheer him in the autumn of his life. His\\nhumour, however, was melancholic, and he retorted\\nabout the trials of life, and its sufferings. He was\\na kind man, of whom others spoke well but also,\\nI am afraid, one of those w r ho learn w r isdom and\\nacquire pelf only through much travail of ex-\\nperience. In the evening, lit by the moon and the\\nwhite beacon of Teide, I visited him at his house,\\nand I shall long remember him as I saw him,\\nimmured in his high well-filled library, reading by\\nthe light of a single candle. There was a skull on\\nhis table, and, when my friend came to meet me,\\nall else was so dark that I saw nothing distinctly\\nexcept the skull. For the moment, he affected a\\nmood of levity, and talked of billiards and whist at\\nthe club, but nature asserted itself by and by, and\\nhe made many distressful remarks as we paced up\\nand down the moonlit streets.\\nThis worthy but sorrow-stained man gave me a\\ncard to the Alcalde or Mayor of Garachico, whither\\nI walked on the afternoon of our arrival at Icod.\\nGarachico is a sad town. Three centuries ago it\\nwas rich in noble and conventual houses, and ships\\nfrom many countries came to its port. The green\\ncliffs of the land fell close to the sea. It was a local\\nvaunt that a man might shoot and fish thereon at", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe same time. But in 1706 Teide ruined Garachico.\\nA volcano suddenly appeared on the high ground\\nseveral hundred feet above the town, but perilously\\nnear to it. Then came the lava. It surged over the\\ncliffs, and step by step surrounded and tried to\\ndestroy Garachico. Monks and nuns, hidalgos and\\npeasants, hastened from the doomed place to Icod.\\nNor did the lava rest when the town was burnt and\\nin great part submerged. It ran on into the harbour,\\nand choked the best port of Tenerife. Thus\\nGarachico got its death-blow. It was despoiled of its\\ncommercial importance. Its cultivable land was\\nburied under the lava, and the convenient cliff which\\nhad been its glory was scarred into ugliness by the\\ncongelation of the molten cascade that had streamed\\nover it. Tenerife has had to lament many scourges\\nsince it fell to the Spanish crown but the destruc-\\ntion of Garachico most of all.\\nThe path from Icod led me down through a\\nlovely valley beset with orange groves, nispcros,\\ntall maize, sugar-cane, vines, and fig trees. Groups\\nof feathery palms stood from its lower slopes, with\\nthe blue sea beyond them. The verdure of the pre-\\ncipitous rocks that hedged the valley was astonishing.\\nVines and brambles hung in unbroken trails, scores\\nof feet long crimson and yellow flowers bloomed in\\nthe crannies and the persevering zxrode a cir-\\ncular evergreen that seems to have no stem, stuck\\nlike a plaster to as much of the cliff sides as was\\notherwise unappropriated. The water that causes\\nthis verdure was carried from side to side of the\\nvalley in a thin spidery aqueduct of pine trunks,", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "GARACHICO S DISASTER.\\n123\\nfrom the many leaks of which the lower lands\\nenjoyed a perpetual shower-bath.\\nA great rock stands by the road where Garachico s\\nred roofs begin, and a crucifix surmounts the rock.\\nIn the contracted bay, which is now Garachico s\\napology for a harbour, there is another rock rising\\nperhaps two hundred feet out of the water. On this\\nalso a wooden cross meets the eye. Elsewhere are\\nother crosses, scratched on the lava boulders which\\nhave rolled from the heights, or set by the sea in the\\nblack volcanic sand, beyond the reach of the tide.\\nThus Garachico seems to plead with heaven that it\\nmay be spared future devastation like the flood of\\n1645, the fire of 1697, and the eruption of 1706.\\nThe Alcalde told me the story of 1706 with as\\nmuch feeling and exactitude as if he had been an\\ninterested witness of the wreck and from his roof\\nwe traced the current that had sped from Teide.\\nAnon we visited the parochial church, the pillars of\\nwhich show the mark, fifteen feet from the ground,\\nreached by the lava. In the streets are the shells\\nof many fair buildings with Corinthian portals,\\nchiselled balconies, and dainty heraldic work but\\nthere is nothing behind these imposing facades.\\nThe remains of Garachico s casa fuerte, or guard-\\nhouse, still stands by the sea, with two or three un-\\nlimbered guns by its battlements. But it is now a\\npurposeless fort, since the harbour it protected is\\ngone.\\nThe duties of the present recalled the Alcalde from\\nhis kindly retrospect. A sound that was half howl\\nand half sob broke upon the still air when we were", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "124\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npassing the Municipal Buildings. The Alcalde was\\nat first puzzled to explain it. But his memory did\\nnot long deceive him. With a smile and a shrug of\\nthe shoulder, he called to a slipshod man, and sent\\nhim to the town clerk for a key. He then entered\\nthe overgrown garden of the inner courtyard of a\\ndeserted monastery, and, unlocking a wicket, stood\\nin a little square of grassy ground with a stone seat\\nin a corner, the sky for a ceiling, and a wailing red-\\nfaced woman sitting on the seat. The woman\\nsprang towards the Alcalde s knees with a torrent of\\nwords and tears, appeals to the Virgin, promises to\\namend, c. She was the one prisoner in this the\\ngaol of Garachico, and was sentenced to three days\\nincarceration, with bread and water, for being drunk\\nand disorderly. This time, however, the Alcalde\\nremitted her punishment and, having picked up a\\ncrust that lay among the grass, the woman shuffled\\naway with many grateful adjectives upon her tongue.\\nIn the evening, from the azotea of the Icod inn,\\nwe watched the sun set. The Peak was at first\\nquite free from cloud its black lava streaks, its\\nsnow, and its rosy cone, were alike bathed in the\\nwarm yellow light of evening. But after a while a\\nburly cumulus crept round its shoulder two or three\\nthousand feet from the summit, and broke into\\nfragments that hung to all appearance motionless\\nabout its tremendous body. As the sun sank, these\\nfragments were dyed a light amber colour, through\\nwhich the purpling mountain slopes shone divinely\\nwhere they fell to the Canarian pines, yellow as\\nbuttercups, at the head of the Icod valley. Later,", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3724", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3744", "width": "2412", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "ENGLISH WINE.\\n127\\nthe clouds, and the spurs of Teide where there was\\nno snow, grew abruptly black. There was an air of\\nindescribable awe about the towering phantom that\\nthus brooded over the town so nearly, and was yet\\nso majestic that nothing could seem more remote\\nfrom the intrusion of restless mortals. All the\\nworld was by this time in cool shadow of hurrying\\ntwilight the mountain flanks, the pine woods at\\ntheir base, the fields of tobacco, barley, and pota-\\ntoes about the town, and the reddish roofs of the\\nhouses, interspersed with palms and dragon trees,\\nall sloping gently towards the sea all the world\\nexcept the Peak of Teide. As for the Peak, it\\nglowed with crimson light until the very moon over\\nour heads was lustrous enough to read by.\\nWhen this scene had passed, we descended to\\ndine. The company was scant but courteous the\\ndinner Spanish yet excellent, and the wine of the\\nbest native growth. It fell to my lot to settle a\\ndispute about the comparative worth of English and\\nSpanish wines. An elderly gentleman was surprised\\nto find that in defending the vintages of England,\\nwhich he confessed he had never tasted, he had been\\nwhipping a dead horse, or rather a horse that had\\nnot yet been foaled. Probably he mistook the pale\\nale of Burton, which is in every Canarian wine-\\nshop, for a strain of the British grape.\\nTowards bedtime, new diversion offered. The\\nhostess remarked that she had a daughter, and\\nupon such a possession I congratulated her.\\nMoreover, continued the good woman, she is\\nlearning the French, and speaks it a little not so", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "128\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwell as the senor speaks Spanish, but better than\\nnot at all.\\nThen, said I, the poor girl must have few\\nwords at command.\\nNo, it is not so, rejoined the landlady, laugh-\\ning civilly. Would the senor like me to fetch my\\ndaughter\\nShe was a well-grown girl of eighteen, and she\\nbrought her grammar with her. There was nothing\\nfor it but to sit side by side, and test each other s\\nacquirements. The mother meanwhile produced\\nher lacework, and, with a pleased expression of face,\\ncomposed herself on the other side of the table, now\\nand then proffering a word of encouragement when\\nher child s wits were wool-gathering, or centring in\\nher smiles and blushes. For, though her cheeks\\nwere bepowdered (ay, and her very ears so that\\nshe was pale as a corpse, the blood showed\\nthrough the powder, and her large dark eyes put\\nthese foolish artificial modes of adornment much to\\nshame. Occasionally a citizen sidled his head into\\nthe room, but I fancy the student s mother told them\\nwith a glance that their presence was not then de-\\nsired. Thus we spent an agreeable hour, and at the\\nend I wished Dolores sweet dreams.\\nI did not think the English had so much\\npatience said the hostess, in comment upon our\\nlabours. But I of course had to assure her that\\npatience was needed rather to help in bearing the\\ncessation than the continuance of such gracious\\ntasks.", "height": "3732", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER VIII.\\nA trait of Icod character A fair morning Pumice plains and\\nlava beds Gomera On the Canadas A volcaneta\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The\\nPeak at its toilet\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Palm Sunday service Garachico from\\nabove A valley bivouac Santiago A severe mountain\\nChia Guia Excitement in Guia Hospitality of Guia\\nFor and against country life.\\nAt ten o clock the next day, Jose and I set out for\\nthe Canadas, or lower and ancient crater of the\\nPeak. We were to ascend whither so many griev-\\nous torrents of lava have flown over the west and\\nsouth-west of the island. For it is on this south-\\nwestern slope of Teide that most of the recent\\nvolcanetas have arisen, and the great mouth of\\nChahora, which belched fiery fluid day after day\\nfor several weeks in 1798, adjoins the Peak on this\\nside, being only about 2,300 feet lower than it.\\nJose ingenuously confessed that he did not know\\nthe way to the Canadas on this side. For six pesetas\\n(5s.), however, I procured a responsible youth, who\\ngave me an insight into Canarian character by bar-\\ngaining with another youth to relieve him of the\\nwork for three pesetas. To this arrangement I did\\nnot object, as the latter guide was a merry fellow\\nwith a simple and honest expression. He spoke an\\n10", "height": "3744", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "i3o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\niniquitous dialect, but insisted that his bargain\\ncompelled him to carry the maize, bread, eggs, wine,\\nc, with which my boy had duly girt himself.\\nFrom the time of this betrayal of his simplicity, Jose\\nlorded it over him with patronizing kindliness.\\nThe day was perfect, and the mountain magnificent\\nin the morning light. Swallows circled about us in\\nthe clear warm air. The blue smoke from the fires\\nof the charcoal burners, two or three thousand feet\\nabove us, hung in straight firm columns. The very\\ngoats browsing amid the lower scrub and bracken\\nseemed full of elation on this glad invigorating day\\nthey skipped from hillock to hillock with a lively\\nringing of bells, and laughed to scorn the superin-\\ntendence of the goatherds in long white smocks, and\\nthe stones which the goatherds threw at them. In\\nthis rather populous region we met many a country-\\nwoman descending to the town with admirable poise\\nof her shapely body, and a basket of eggs upon her\\nhead, muleteers clad in cool linen, with their scarlet\\nvests loose upon them, and foresters laden with\\npine trunks that would have crushed you or me to\\nthe ground.\\nThus we passed from the infamously rough rocky\\nlanes of the lowlands, which kept my mare in a\\nsweat of anxiety, by woods of flowering gum cistus\\nand tall heaths, into the cheerful and odorous zone\\nof pines, the droppings from which lay so thick that\\nour footfalls were inaudible. Our progress was\\nindicated by the growing nearness of Teide on the\\nleft hand, and the appearance to our right, one\\nafter another, of sundry scarlet hillocks, which shone", "height": "3732", "width": "2324", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "AMONG THE LA VA.\\nlike blood through the gold of the pines, and, one\\nafter another, were left behind and below us.\\nAt a height of about 5,000 feet, we were out of the\\npines. The extreme dryness of the air, the heat of\\nthe sun in a cloudless sky, and the toil, had made\\nthe boys almost intolerably thirsty. But neither for\\nthem nor the mare was a drop of water obtainable,\\nfor we were close to the lava-beds, which, within the\\nlast century, have scorched the bowels of the land,\\nand whence no springs fall to the valleys. Thus we\\ntrod into the midst of the weird but fascinating\\nevidences of volcanic work. The mountain of\\nChahora seemed very near. But we could not have\\nclimbed the broad slope of primrose-coloured pumice\\ndust, studded with retama, which led to its summit,\\nin less than two or three hours. Its rounded peak,\\nseen from below, is not, however, very attractive.\\nViewed from Teide, it is vastly more interesting, for\\nthe great mouth of the new volcano is there seen to\\nadmiration.\\nFor many minutes we now kept to this yellow\\npumice, with a wavy bed of light-brown lava to the\\nright of us. Nothing could seem more impracticable\\nthan this rugged iron stream, with its surface rising\\ninto twisted pinnacles, humps, and chilling edges,\\nand sundered by crevices as deep as the fancy cared\\nto make them. Here were no signs of disintegration.\\nAs the iron band had unrolled itself upon the country\\nsome score of years ago, so it lay, rigid and inflexible.\\nNot even a hardy retama could find a fissure capable\\nof nurturing it. The desolation was absolute.\\nBut by and hy the pumice sand ceased, and we", "height": "3740", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "I 3 2\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwere face to face with a wide inky current which had\\nran from the lip of Chahora down towards the brown\\nlava, intersecting it at right angles. This was the\\nlast lava flow in the island the outcome of 1798. It\\nlay like a long coarse blot upon the land.\\nAt this point the delicate toil of the day began.\\nFor, though the stuff looked so impassable, we had\\nto cross it and much more ere the Caiiadas could be\\nreached. In preparation, Jose straightway put on\\nhis boots his epidermis was no doubt thick, but\\nthe keen points of the lava, unblunted after a century\\nof life, were too much for him.\\nHow we laboured over this awful tract I left the\\nmare to herself, of course. Even then the poor\\nbeast did not know where to put her feet. It was\\nthe work of an acrobat to step from point to point,\\nand, withal, to avoid slipping into the painful cran-\\nnies between the points. A fall from the animal\\nwould have brought me in peril of an impalement.\\nThus we struggled along for a couple of hours,\\nrising all the time. Lava bed succeeded lava bed,\\nwith brief spaces of level dust cr easier rocks\\nbetween the different beds. We were so high that\\nwe could see the island of Gomera lying close to\\nthe south-west. Its appearance was charming. We\\nlooked down upon its mountains in such a manner\\nthat they had the form of an irregular shadow cast\\nupon the placid silvery sea. Gomera is little visited,\\nin spite of its Valley Beautiful and the best\\nharbour in the Canaries. It was from this harbour\\nthat Columbus sailed west. After Gomera, he had\\ndone with Europe, and the outskirts of Europe. The", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "GO M ERA.\\n133\\nold inhabitants of this island were, among other\\nderivations, thought to be allied with the Cumri of\\nCambria, and their fellow Celts Gomera was held\\nto be an expansion of Gombri, which of course had\\naffinity with Cimbri. But, whatever their origin,\\nthese islanders, whether as aborigines or Spaniards,\\nwere a brave race. Drake could do nothing against\\nthem in 1585, when he purposed sacking the chief\\ntown, and carrying off a thousand skins of wine for\\nthe enlivenment of his voyage to Peru. Nor had\\nWindon, in 1743, better luck when he threatened to\\nravage the island unconditionally if his demand for\\nprovisions was not acceded to. He shot five thou-\\nsand balls into the town, killing two men and a\\nwoman, and then withdrew.\\nWe were 7,000 feet above the glittering sea round\\nGomera, when a sudden clap of wind buffeted us in\\nthe face. Immediately afterwards, a surge of mist\\nswept with a roar across the great plateau of the\\nCanadas. The mare was terrified, and began to\\nplunge. She had got used to the stillness of these\\nupper regions, which have nothing to do with life or\\ndeath. In time, however, she got used to the mist\\nalso and it was enveloped in this dry hurtling\\nvapour that, at three o clock in the afternoon, we sat\\non the sharp edge of the Canadas crater, and ate our\\ndinner with much appetite. Now and then the mist\\nparted, and showed us the serrated peaks of the Cana-\\ndas mountains which fringe the crater. Some of them\\nare 9,000 feet above the sea level, and they are boldly\\ncontorted. The snow still lay thick on their sides,\\nin fine contrast with the brilliant reds and browns of", "height": "3744", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "134\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntheir rocks, and the yellowish stretches of sand at\\ntheir base, studded, like a great leopard s skin, with\\nmany light spots\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the clusters of retama. There\\nwas snow, too, within twenty yards of our dinner-\\ntable and, in fact, neither our wine nor our noses\\nlacked the property of coolness.\\nOn the return journey, we made a detour to\\nexamine a little volcano which uprose about forty\\nfeet from the midst of one of the brown lava streams.\\nFamiliarity had bred in me some disrespect for the\\ndangers of the lava as a result, I lost blood and\\nskin ere we were at the base of the hillock. This\\nproved to be a dainty excrescence, in shape like a\\nconical lime-kiln. In its side was the rift whence the\\nlava had seethed upwards to join the stream that\\nwas already pressing past it. I suppose the teeming\\nflank of Teide, which had burst primarily higher up,\\nwas here glad to get another vent. This little bubble\\nof stuff was extended as a tap subordinate to the\\nmain outflow. Within the volcaneta were traces of\\nsheep and goats. They had probably rested here on\\ntheir way to the retama of the plains. But what a\\ntemptation to Dame Nature to cook their mutton\\nwhile they slumbered in trustful security within one\\nof her ovens\\nLeaving the volcaneta, we dropped gaily down the\\nslopes of Teide, with the full evening light upon the\\nyellow pines. The boys sang, very much in dis-\\nunison, but with exceeding heartiness. For my part,\\nhowever, I was a willing victim to the charms of\\nTeide, and nothing but Teide. The mountain seemed\\nto come nearer as the sun went west. Its snowy", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "THE PEAK IN MARCH FROM ABOVE ICOD.", "height": "3740", "width": "2324", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "PALM SUNDA Y IN ICOD 137\\npyramid, and the pink cone cresting it, with soft\\ninward curves, were dazzling to look at. Anon, a\\npurple shadow fell upon the base of the mountain,\\nand crept slowly upwards. And in this stage of the\\nday, with a sky of the purest blue above, and never\\na cloud in the heavens, Teide wove gossamer\\nveils one after another for the tiring of her head,\\nand discarded them as fast as she put them on.\\nThey were the most patent of shams absolutely\\ntransparent but how they enhanced her beauty\\nAnd one by one they stole from her, and lay in glossy\\nhorizontal strata, until they dissipated into nothing-\\nness. To speak more exactly, the sulphureous\\nvapours, which are at all times exhaling from the\\ncone of the Peak, now became visible in the chilling\\nair.\\nThe third day of our travel was Palm Sunday a\\nfestival of great honour in Tenerife. While I dressed,\\nI watched the populous gathering of town and\\ncountry folk on the greensward in front of the\\nchurch, and in the Plaza beneath my window. The\\nwomen wore silk handkerchiefs of gay colours, bound\\nround their heads, and tiny straw hats, fit for a large-\\nsized doll, poised upon their crowns. Otherwise\\ntheir attire was not singular clean prints being the\\ncommon material of their gowns. There was more\\nactual dandyism among the men. One young buck,\\nfor example, in a tight-fitting white and black cotton\\njacket, a large crimson neckcloth, and snowy pants,\\npranced superbly into the Plaza, twirling his mous-\\ntaches while he managed his horse. Like most of\\nthe others, he carried a broad palm-leaf in one hand.", "height": "3756", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "138\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nWhen the hour of mass was rung, I entered the\\nchurch with the rest. Every foot of standing room\\nwas soon occupied. The women went to one side,\\nand very lively was the effect of the hundreds of\\nkerchiefed heads purple, yellow, crimson, and blue\\nfrom which the small straw hats were removed.\\nThe men were hardly less reverent than the women\\nduring the function. The two or three exceptions\\nwere spruce adolescents who leaned against the\\ncolumns, and chattered at their leisure, with their\\neyes upon the ladies. But even they held palm-\\nleaves. The flutter of the fronds in all parts of the\\nchurch cooled the air amazingly. Drawn from side\\nto side of the choir was a thin veil of gauze, to\\nsymbolize the veil of the Temple. On the ensuing\\nFriday this would be dramatically rent in twain, and\\nafterwards the dolorous effigies of the crucified\\nChrist, and the tear-stained, heart-broken Virgin,\\nwould proceed clown the aisle, and through the streets,\\ntowards the Calvary where, amid much sobbing, the\\nburial scene in the cave of Arimathea would be\\nenacted. But to-day the veil seemed to cool the\\nheated church, like the palm-leaves.\\nJose attended mass, like the rest of Icod, and\\nafter the service confessed himself ready for the\\ntwenty miles of roadway which I proposed for the day s\\nstage. Dolores came to the door to see us off. She\\nhad powdered her fair young face again, so that\\nthere was no divining whether her expression was\\none of sadness or relief. I, however, at sight of her\\nmade a resolution that has not been kept. I vowed\\nthat when next we met I would put into irreproach-", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "GARACHICO FROM ABOVE.\\n139\\nable Castilian that beauty unadorned is beauty at\\nits best, and whisper it insidiously into her receptive\\nmind. But I fear fashion is omnipotent, even in\\nTenerife.\\nBearing across the valley, we at once struck\\nupwards by a path, which an hour later brought us\\nto the summit of the cliff that overhangs Garachico.\\nHere we halted, under a torrid sun, with nothing\\naround us but the grey lava which in 1705 sped\\nhence down to the town. We looked below. A few\\nred specks, with a hand s breadth of green turf\\nbetween them this was all that Garachico appeared\\nto be. The black rim framed it all too closely. At\\nfirst it seemed odd to find, in two or three places,\\nthis upland lava sufficiently decomposed for the\\ngrowth upon it of some small fig trees, a few square\\nyards of potatoes and vines, and some sprigs of\\nflowing gorse whereas elsewhere it was unyielding.\\nBut this material is very capricious in its surrender\\nto time a recent outflow not seldom breaking up\\nbefore an earlier one.\\nThe morning passed in uneventful labour. The\\nprevious day we had been where water of any kind\\nis not. This day we struggled through the hottest\\nhours seeking in vain for drinkable water. The soil\\nwas a moist vermilion sort of loam, and acres of\\npotatoes stretched to the eyeline on both sides of\\nus, at an altitude of about 3,000 feet above the sea.\\nWe were, in fact, in the midst of English greenery\\nand English hedgerows; larks sung over our heads;\\nand the air was damp. But we tried puddle after\\npuddle in the red earth, and rejected them all", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "140\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nAt length a valley opened at our feet, and the thin\\nglistening line that meandered through it was hailed\\nas sweet water. Thither we descended briskly,\\nfor it was long past the hour of lunch and then, by\\nthe side of a stream, secluded from the outer world\\nby smooth, rounded hills, mottled with gorse and\\nheath, we spread the contents of the saddle-bags,\\nand let the mare bury her nose in a sack of barley.\\nTwo or three huts like pigsties held the population\\nof the nook and ere long we had a wondering\\nthrong of savage little faces within hail of our meats\\nand bottles. The hill scenery of this valley, and\\nthe large, staring eyes of these grimy children\\nfresh from play with the pigs and poultry alike\\nreminded me of Marathon. By and by a man\\nappeared, leading a cow by the horn. He sat at a\\ndistance that he might not disturb us by his presence.\\nWhen Jose marched up to him, with his hands full\\nof food, and the conventional, Hagdme el favor\\ndo me the favour to eat something), he declined,\\nbut with a bow down almost to the ground. After-\\nwards, however, he joined the youngsters in appro-\\npriating the fragments we left.\\nIt was cruelly against the grain to forsake this\\ngrassy Eden for the hard hillsides, when our meal\\nwas done. Even the mare feigned to be mightily\\nstiff. Maybe she had presentiment about the state\\nof the road on the other side of the hill. We as-\\ncended to the brow of a ridge, and looked down at\\nthe large village of Santiago, embosomed in a plateau\\non the other side, and with the peaks of two or three\\nsoaring red mountains casting shadows over its low,", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "SANTIAGO.\\n141\\nrude houses. These conical red hills to the left\\nwere the same which, yesterday, on our way to the\\nCanadas, we had kept to the right hand. The\\ndescent into Santiago was detestable. It was all\\nthe mare could do to keep on her feet so slippery\\nwere the broad inclined planes of naked rock which\\nled by degrees into the valley.\\nSantiago is a poblacion of about 2,000 inhabitants,\\nvery rich in fruits and cereals, and picturesque\\nfrom the irregular shape of its environing moun-\\ntains but else uninviting. The citizens and their\\nwives were so much astounded at sight of us that I\\nthought the church bell would be rung in our honour.\\nBut the houses had a dilapidated air very dissonant\\nwith comfort, especially in a place nearly 3,000 feet\\nabove the sea, nor was I sorry when, at some cost,\\nJose had thrown off the last of his interrogators, and\\nwe were stumbling over gray lava pebbles towards\\nanother upland track. The whole of this country is\\nvolcanic, and the very basin in which Santiago\\nstands must, in remote ages, have been repeatedly\\ndeluged with lava from the volcanoes around it.\\nFrom Santiago we climbed the face of a mountain\\nby a monstrously steep trail. For my life s sake, I\\nwould not have ridden down it. But these Tene-\\nrifian horses go at the severest ascents with surpris-\\ning pluck, and I had rather to curb the good panting\\nmare than to stimulate her.\\nWe rose until we were a thousand feet or more\\nabove Santiago and another like village in a green\\nplateau nearer the sea. A trick of vice or terror in\\nthe mare would here have sent us both rolling down", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "142\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe abrupt declivity. Where the ledge was nar-\\nrowest, moreover, we met a muleteer with an ass\\nso laden with brushwood that it took the space of\\nthree asses. Jose was a little anxious, but contrived\\nto give the ass the outside berth, where it passed\\nwith two of its feet considerably lower than the\\nothers.\\nBut when we had done with the ass, we had done\\nwith the hard work of the day also. Thenceforward,\\nuntil five o clock, we gradually lowered towards the\\ntown of Guia, to which I was recommended for the\\nnight.\\nHereabouts, we said goodbye to the Peak for four\\ndays. Its tiny cone just looked over the hither\\nthighs of the vastly-broken country which intervenes\\nbetween it and the coast in this part of Tenerife.\\nThin woods of pine shaded the higher of these\\nintermediate hills, but ere we reached Guia the\\nclouds had settled upon the ridges in a long, steady,\\nblack bank of vapour.\\nIn the meantime, we passed through the village of\\nChia, where the inhabitants seemed as degraded as\\nthose of Santiago. Ancient crones, squatting on- the\\nthresholds of ramshackle houses, thatched loosely\\nwith maize stalks, were taking snuff out of small\\ntin boxes, or smoking cigars in social knots, their\\nbrown breasts exposed to the air, and chaffering\\nwith each other in loud, unfeminine tones. The\\nmen, however, were fine fellows to the eye, in their\\nred waistcoats and Sunday finery. They and the\\nlads of Chia greeted us with a running fire of\\nquestions and ejaculations, and acknowledged Jose s", "height": "3736", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "GUI A.\\n143\\nproud record of our feats of travel (for so they were\\nregarded) with many an Ave Maria! and Caramba of\\nstupefaction. But we hastened past them all, and\\non across the desiccated lava fields, in which the\\nbarley grew miserably, but the prickly pear and the\\nfig-trees attained a hugh size. Jose had an uncle\\nborn at Guia, and he boasted the salubrity and\\nscenic charms of the place with such a flourish of\\nsuperlatives that I looked forward to our arrival.\\nIt promised little, however, in appearance. A coterie\\nof low, flat-topped, white houses, with but scant\\ngreenery among the houses all set on a naked\\nslope of mountain, surrounded by stony fields and\\nunprotected from the sun such was Guia. Fortu-\\nnately, it stands about 1,800 feet above the sea,\\nvisible at the base of its long slope. Otherwise, its\\nheat were like to rival that of Timbuctoo.\\nThe excitement we provoked here was greater\\neven than at Chia. The citizens, with their wives\\nand daughters, flew to the roofs of their houses, and\\nwith telescopes, opera-glasses, and their own dark\\neyes subjected us to a very critical ordeal. There\\nwas no evading it, for the mare aroused loud echoes\\nby her clatter over the rough stones of the streets.\\nThe windows were filled with faces, and at the door\\nof the Casino, or club-house, a crowd of young men\\nstood with billiard cues in their hands to see us go\\nby. Thus we reached the house that was longer\\nfinis vice. Jose had of course donned his boots for\\nthe occasion but his feet had swelled, and this,\\nwith the tormenting cobbles, made him limp lament-\\nably. Nevertheless, he prated with glee of the", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "144\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nmare s performance to any that would listen to\\nhim.\\nHere, in Guia, as elsewhere in the Canaries, I\\nlearnt to love the Spanish nature. With much\\nmerely external courtliness, it includes an earnest\\ndesire to be hospitable towards a stranger that is as\\nwinning as it ought to be. The town lacks an inn,\\nbut, thanks to Dr. Montez and his family, I was\\nfain to be glad of it. The ordinary English person\\nwould not (perhaps because he could not) give\\nhimself away to a stranger with the absolute\\nabandon of kindness which makes this house memor\\nable to me. At dinner, for example, with a grace\\nthat barred all thought save of gratitude, the ladies\\n(of whom there were five or six) vied with each\\nother to put tit-bits of this viand and that upon my\\nplate. It was a bright meal, illumined by black\\neyes. My friend s mother sat at the head of the\\ntable. In the drawing-room, she also held the place\\nof honour, in the middle of the sofa. So manifest\\na rule of the mother-in-law would agree well with\\nbut few English wives. Here it seemed to go with\\nadmirable smoothness.\\nLate in the evening, the doctor armed me through\\nthe quiet, moonlit streets of the town. There is\\nnothing to seen in Guia nothing at all, he said.\\nHe had migrated to Tenerife from Seville for family\\nreasons, but found the contrast between Guia and\\nSeville hardly supportable. Speaking professionally,\\nhowever, he admitted that the climate of Tenerife\\nwas marvellously healthy Drier than Madiera,\\nand better than Madiera. The cheapness of living", "height": "3740", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "I SOLA TION.\\n145\\nin Tenerife was also in its favour. Upon an income\\nof 2,500 pesetas (\u00c2\u00a3100), it was possible to keep an\\nestablishment of seven or eight human beings,\\nbesides horses and dogs. The common necessaries\\nof life cost little. The supply of fruit is infinite.\\nPartridges and rabbits represent the game of the\\nneighbourhood.\\nYet, putting these positive advantages against the\\nisolation of life in Guia, for a man of ardent tempera-\\nment, my friend pronounced it a terrible trial. This\\nno doubt it is for though Tenerife is but a speck\\non the ocean, he could not make the journey to the\\ncapital of the island in less than two very hard days\\nwork.\\nTI", "height": "3744", "width": "2340", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER IX.\\nThe hot south side of Tenerife the Euphorbia Jose s brag-\\nging Adeje Its Casa fuerte Its population Ascent to\\nChasna Chasna of the clouds The doctor and his\\ndaughter A morning outlook Flower customs The Eve\\nof St. John Granadilla Its oranges A sturdy gentleman\\nGranadilla s church, club, and tobacco factories Rio\\nBarrancos and cave dwellings Flies Arico The ex-\\ndockman\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Fast life in Arico.\\nLed by a new guide, we left Guia at 8 a.m., and\\nreached Chasna, high in the mountains, at 7 p.m.\\nWe were in the sun all the day, with not an inch of\\nshade about us on this burning south side of Tenerife.\\nThe scant vegetation was largely African. Barley,\\nhowever, stood up, yellow, thin, and stalky, among the\\ngrey lava stones. Cornflowers and poppies beat the\\ngrain on its own ground. No potatoes grew here.\\nTobacco, in patches, took its place and jungles of\\nlow fig-trees, loaded with purpling fruit. But the chief\\nshrubs of all were the euphorbia, or cardon, of both\\nkinds the poisonous and the harmless. The bar-\\nrancos, which here clove the land with tremendous\\nenergy, were thick with the olive brown-mottled\\norgan-pipes of the poisonous euphorbia, eight feet\\nhigh, and with roots extended over many square", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3736", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3736", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "THE EUPHORBIA.\\n149\\nyards of surface. Both the good and bad cardon,\\nand the prickly pear (bearing crimson and lemon-\\ncoloured blosoms, and myriads of ripe fruit, 1 were\\nwoven with webbing of the Tenerifan spider, which\\nclaims to be as venomous as the bad cardon itself.\\nIt was by no means a pleasant land. The ther-\\nmometer tarried at 120 the barrancos held no\\nsweet water; and it was necessary to dismount from\\nthe mare two or three times hourly for the passage\\nof the ravines.\\nA few words may be acceptable about this euphor-\\nbia, which is so constant a scenic addition to the\\nrocks of the Canaries. The good kind is said to have\\nbeen named by King Juba after his physician\\nEuphorbio, who discovered its valuable properties.\\nBoth kinds, when cut, exude a milky liquor but the\\npoison of the one induces a convulsive movement of\\nthe lips, and, in some cases, death whereas the\\nother is even an antidote to it. Viera associates the\\nfatal cardon, when read as cardon, and the sardonic\\nlaughter which it causes. Pomponius Mela, in his\\nessay on the Fortunate Isles, mentions two fountains,\\nthe one poisonous, making a man to die of laugh-\\ning, and the other its antidote. The expression\\nfountain might readily be used in error by a com-\\npiler who did not write of the euphorbia from actual\\nknowledge.\\nWe halted in the heat of the day at a wretched\\nlittle venta. The boys could not resist the muddy\\nwine in its dirty bottles. Besides the wine, this\\n1 Called lingua tinta, because the juice dyes the palate\\nand tongue.", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npoor place offered for sale nothing except some reels\\nof cotton, a button or two, and some oranges and\\nlemons. The delight of the dame who sold us the\\nwine was so great at seeing us that she wished to\\npresent us with our entertainment. Madre de\\nDios she ejaculated many times when she under-\\nstood the scheme of our tour to think that I\\nshould live to see such a caballcro Such courage\\nYou see, Jose had a knack of exalting our perform-\\nances most unduly but his eyes sparkled with\\nrapture while telling his fibs, and he so enjoyed what\\nrenown he got by reflection, that it was impossible\\nto bid him check his ever-ready tongue. Indeed, con-\\nsidering that the poor boy was afoot all the while, he\\ndeserved what satisfaction and praise he could get\\nfor his pluck in the journey.\\nHow heartily glad were we all when the happy\\nhour of bivouac arrived It came late, however, for\\nwe had first to victual at the old town of Adeje, and\\nthen proceed until we found water in a barmnco fit\\nfor the mare to drink. Above Adeje the ravines are\\nterrific, notably the one called Infernal and it was\\nin the lower part of barranco Inferno, under a\\nbrooding pile of black crags and crag-riven clouds,\\nthat we lunched upon cheese and comfits and wine,\\nwhile the mare paddled in the snow water, and\\nmunched her beans.\\nAdeje is said to have been the royal abode of the\\ngreat Tinerfe. He did not live in a palace nor are\\nthere any remains of his court and puissance. The\\nSpaniards also took a fanc} r to the place, which, with\\nits frame north and east of giant mountains, and its", "height": "3744", "width": "2392", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "ADEJE.\\nfertile, because well-watered, slopes towards the sea,\\nno doubt appeared an ideal settlement. Here the\\nbest tobacco of Tenerife is grown, and acres of\\ntufted sugar-cane. Indeed, the sun is concentrated\\nupon this naked incline so intensely, that nothing in\\nneed of heat ought to fail in Adeje.\\nFor the protection of his estates here and in the\\nadjoining island of Gomera, in 1568, the Count of\\nGomera built what he called a casa fucrte or strong-\\nhold, close to the mountain wall, in a position com-\\nmanding the town. This castle still stands, as\\npregnable as ever it was, and a wonder in the eyes\\nof the people. It has a drawbridge spanning a moat\\nthat one may take at a jump, and its battlements are\\nguarded by a number of toy cannon. But though one\\nmay now laugh at this nursery fortification, probably\\nin the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries it did\\ngood work in frightening back to their ships many a\\npiratical bluejacket or turbaned Moor, who had been\\ndrawn towards Adeje by the rumour of its wealth and\\naccessibility.\\nThe modern town is one long street of red and\\nwhite houses, with sweet water from the mountains\\nrunning down its gutters. Its people seem rough\\nand unsophisticated and the gathering of bronzed\\nand wrinkled crones, half-naked children, and bright-\\neyed girls whom we attracted, made such a clatter\\nwith their tongues that they frightened the tired mare\\ninto a wild irresponsible canter through the borough.\\nOur five hours labour after lunch were an un-\\nceasing ascent. Adeje is only a few hundred feet\\nabove the sea Chasna is 4,270. We had panoramic", "height": "3760", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "152\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nviews of the valleys towards the sea south-east of\\nAdeje of Arona and its orange trees, girt with russet\\nvolcanic hills and of San Miguel, in a similar\\nvalley. The country became more and more im-\\npoverished, colder, gloomier. The barley was\\nmiserable. The prickly pear were but just budding;\\nin view, and we seemed\\nA TENERIFAN IN HIS MANTA.\\nover a red, stony soil. But, with a suddenness that\\nhad a brisk effect on our laggard energies, the mist\\nfell away as we turned a hill side. Above, we\\ncould see the graceful shading of thick forests of\\npines, and the outline of eccentric mountains dim\\nbeyond while, below the pines, in a bower of\\ngreenery, red roofs and white blossoms appeared.\\nWe hurried on. for this was Chasna, the renowned\\nthe lupins only a few\\ninches above the ground\\nthe fig trees hardly in leaf.\\nThe rare countrymen we\\nmet were cloaked from\\nchin to knee in the heavy\\nwhite ponchos which Wit-\\nney makes specially for the\\nhighlanders of Tenerife.\\nBy and by we got into\\nthe clouds, and for a\\ncouple of hours plodded\\ncn in chill, wetting mist,\\nmuch in contrast with the\\ndry heat of Guia and\\nAdeje. There was nothing\\nto be ascending nowhere,", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "CHASNA BY TWILIGHT.\\n153\\nsummer watering place and hygienic resort of the\\nisland and soon we climbed its stony streets through\\norchards of pear, apple, and cherry, all in a blaze of\\nflower, and sparkling in the twilight with the drops\\nleft on their leaves by the fleeting clouds. Groups\\nof men in white cloaks stood at the doors of the\\nhouses and high, time-stained, and carved buildings\\nbespoke the importance of this, the most elevated of\\nthe towns of Tenerife. To me it seemed that I was\\nin Gloucestershire, breathing the air of a moist April\\nevening. Yet I doubt if even Gloucestershire in the\\nbest of seasons could match Chasna, 4,270 feet above\\nthe sea, for the luxuriance of its grass and its\\nblossoms.\\nIt fell dark while we were yet in the streets of this\\ntown, and the inhabitants withdrew to their houses,\\nbarring their windows with heavy wooden shutters.\\nI feared we were in a quandary, for the doctor to\\nwhom I bore a letter had left his former house.\\nBut it came right in the end, though neither the\\nmare nor ourselves tasted dinner before 10 p.m.\\nIn the meantime, I sat, unkempt and unwashed,\\nvis-a-vis with my host in a large bare upper room,\\nshot with draughts from all its sides. He plied me\\nwith questions, commented somewhat cynically on\\nthe answers, and took snuff. He was pleased to think\\nthat the English were likely to be periodical visitors\\nto Tenerife, and hoped those who stayed through the\\nsummer would pay him a visit at Chasna. Medi-\\ncally, the place suited stomach and renal affections,\\ndyspepsia, c, but it was agreeable for the sick and\\nthe well alike.", "height": "3760", "width": "2312", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "154\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nAmong the pretty faces of Tenerife, I shall long\\nrecall the doctor s little daughter. She was but\\ntwelve or thirteen, but quite angelic. Her features\\nwere regular, and not so heavy as with most Spanish\\ngirls. But the beauty and brilliancy of her eyes\\nwere incomparable. And when, with her mother s\\nhelp, she had laid the supper table, and came and\\nstood by the one candle which lit me and the room,\\nher small hands folded one in the other, she was\\nloveliness incarnate. Yet, though so young, she\\nhad the dignity and grace of a woman, and was self-\\npossessed to a marvel. Her small brother, a baby of\\nsix or seven, brought his picture books, dolls, and\\ngo-carts for me to see and with bright eyes of\\ninterest she interpreted his childish lingo, adding\\nexplanations in a charming manner. Three years\\nhence, this little one will be a Hebe worth the\\nwinning. God go with you, serior, she said, in\\ncustomary farewell, when she gave me her hand the\\nnext day; and the conventional rejoinder, May He\\nguard you, too, seiiorita, could not but be spoken\\nwith peculiar sincerity.\\nThis night in Chasna (or Villaflor, as it is more\\noften called) was cold for Tenerife, and I used all\\nthe bed-covering I could get. But how delightful\\nwas the morning outlook when, aroused by a sunbeam\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2through a chink of the window, I opened the\\nslmtters Such glowing verdure and scent of\\nblossoms in the cool, moist, sunlit air The vege-\\ntation so various from cacti, aloes, lemon and\\norange trees, and budding figs, to cherry and apple\\nand poplar trees In the Plaza below was the shell", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "ABOVE THE CLOUDS.\\n155\\nof a decorated stone building. Grass and fig trees\\ngrew dense within its walls and by one side of it\\nstood a tall cypress, healthy and strong as an Oriental\\ntree. This was a ruined conventual establishment\\nthe expulsion of the Jesuits in 1767 suspended its\\ncompletion. Beyond were the red-roofed houses of\\nthe town, their white bodies looming through the\\ngreenery which enwrapped them, and blue smoke\\nsoared in spiral columns from the chimneys into the\\nstill, fresh air. The lowing of kine, the chirping of\\nbirds, and the crowing of cocks, sounded in cheerful\\ntumult from all parts of the town.\\nChasna is remarkable in that its inhabitants live\\nmost of their time above the clouds. From my\\nwindow, the gay pine-clad hills (being the southern\\nside of the Canadas, with the conical Sombrecita as\\nthe dominant and most striking of the cliffs) which\\nframe the town at from one to four thousand feet\\nabove it, were visible in detail a charming study of\\npurple and gold and crimson but, below the houses,\\nwhere the land falls abruptly seawards, nothing was\\nto be seen except a mass of woolly vapour, with here\\nand there a dark shadow upon it. The clouds were\\nabout a thousand feet lower than us, while we were\\nunder a blue sky and a warm unmitigated sun.\\nWe left Chasna (which boasts of no antiquities)\\nsoon after 7 a.m., equipped with a gigantic bouquet\\nof boughs of orange, pear, and apple blossom, and\\none little violet from the doctor s daughter. The last\\nis now dry and scentless, but I keep it as an amulet\\nof value.\\nThis giving and taking of flowers, so common in", "height": "3760", "width": "2300", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "1 5 6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nTenerife, is a kindly and gracious custom. In Eng-\\nland, I suppose a lady would hesitate ere she offered\\na gentleman a sprig of orange blossom. But here\\nit is an every-day civility, ft is also more than this.\\nThanks to the embargo that Spanish etiquette places\\nupon intercourse between unmarried girls and the\\nrest of the world, the young of both sexes have estab-\\nlished a very adequate code of signals expressible by\\nflowers. The language of flowers is in fact a lan-\\nguage very much alive, and not a mere sentimental\\nfiction. The hapless lover, in the heat of his passion,\\nmay not be able to sit by the side of his mistress in\\nher father s house or elsewhere. But it is permissi-\\nble and easy to take a loose nosegay in his hand, and,\\nstationing himself in a plaintive attitude on that side\\nof the street which affords him the better view of the\\ngirl s fair face, as she sits sighing towards him, weave\\npretty messages of admiration and love with the\\nroses and jasmine and heliotrope.\\nThe maiden, too, depends on flowers as a means of\\ndivination. When she yearns to know who shall\\nmarry her, she throws a bouquet into the street. He\\nwho picks it up has the claim upon her. But no\\ndoubt she will not resort to this hazardous method of\\ninquiry, unless she believes her heart s lover to be near\\nat hand. If a pig touch the flowers with his snout,\\nit is a sign that the lady is doomed to a Portuguese,\\nand not a Spaniard.\\nThe great season for these experiments is the 22nd\\nof June, the eve of St. John. It is the custom then to\\nlight bonfires at the doors of those w r ho bear the\\nsaint s name Juan or Juana. A maiden listening", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "SUPERSTITIONS.\\n157\\nat her window to the chatter in the street is wont to\\ngive credence to the fancy that the first male Christian\\nname which she hears spoken after the lighting of\\nthe fires is the name of her future husband. Another\\nplan is to break a new-laid egg into a glass of water,\\nand let it stand through the night. By rising at\\ndawn the next day, the votary may distinguish marks\\nin the commixture of egg and water, indicative of the\\ntrade or profession of her beloved. Another less\\ncheerful superstition belongs to this St. John s Eve.\\nA dish of water being set out on the eve, may be\\nlooked into at daybreak. If the reflection be clear,\\nthe augury is good otherwise, the dimness forebodes\\ndeath to the experimentalist within the year.\\nFrom Villaflor we rapidly descended in the bracing\\natmosphere, to the town of Granadilla, some two\\nthousand feet lower down. The tract was broken\\nbut distinct, bordered by asphodels, and red and\\nyellow poppies now leading us into a steep gulley\\ncoated with scrub, and now by rough barley fields\\nand down broad steps of slippery white rock. As\\nwe proceeded, the sun melted the clouds at our feet.\\nThus the lowlands were gradually uncovered, and\\nrounded hills, green basins, and inclined reaches of\\nuncultivable lava came into view, to the water s\\nedge. Ere we neared the orange groves of Grana-\\ndilla, the atmosphere had cleared so that the moun-\\ntains of Grand Canary, fifty miles away, stood forth\\nboldly.\\nThe entrance to this balmy town was by a series\\nof awkward rock slabs, which brought the mare upon\\nher haunches twice or thrice. At its outskirts we", "height": "3744", "width": "2312", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "i 5 8\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncame to a lava monument, surmounted by a monk in\\nthe attitude of preaching. Then a bountiful fountain\\ntestified to the supply of- that best commodity of\\na Tenerifan town. But Granadilla is more famous\\nfor its oranges. Not Florida has its trees weighted\\nmore profusely. The perfume of the blossom was too\\nsweet. Oranges lay in piles in the gutters. A beggar\\nwoman, sitting by the roadside, was making her\\nbreakfast from them. She did but squeeze out their\\njuice, and the heap of indented carcasses by her toe-\\nless shoe marked the measure of her indulgence.\\nAt Granadilla, I made the acquaintance of a type\\nof Spaniard new to me. The Guia guide carried my\\nintroduction to him, while I waited in the large inner\\nquadrangle of his house, watching the brisk move-\\nments of the milkmaids and ostlers, all by their\\nactivity betokening a master of no common kind.\\nSuch, in fact, Don Ramon Garcia proved to be.\\nHe was a little man, preternaturally broad, with a\\nfull round red face, and a minute moustache neatly\\nwaxed and turned at the ends. Jose winced at the\\nsight of him and the thunderous bidding of Don\\nRamon to take the mare to a stable and do all that\\nwas necessary, seemed to be no more than his intui-\\ntion made him expect.\\nWith me, of course, Don Ramon was less authori-\\ntative, until breakfast was served. We sat in his\\ndrawing-room at the window, and he talked loud,\\nso that the people in the street gathered at the\\ncorner to see what was happening. He offered\\nme Madrid journals six weeks old, discussed the\\ntelegrams about Castillo, and bade some one fetch", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "A MASTERFUL MASTER.\\n159\\nthe cur a of the parish church. His reverence\\nduly appeared a sheepish, dirty, blushing young\\npriest, who, it was clear from his obsequious\\ndemeanour, was in most things my friend s very\\nobedient servant. In two words, Don Ramon told\\nhis business. He was to have the church unlocked\\nand everything on view for us in an hour s time.\\nYes, sir, said the cura, who with a bow and a new\\nblush, withdrew like a domestic.\\nBreakfast was soon ready and then Don Ramon,\\nwith generous hospitality, enrolled me among his\\nslaves. He plyed me with his best wines till my\\nhead thickened, and made a feint of emptying his\\nglass at every toast, so that he might have\\nexcuse for refilling mine. While we ate, a maid\\nwhisked the flies from our head with a peacock s\\nfeather. She was alert enough, but not to Don\\nRamon s satisfaction. The senor s head Car-\\namba Do you not see there is a fly upon him\\nDios mio what a simpleton Thus he bullied the\\ngirl, while he feted me. Once he caught her smiling,\\nand abused her so that she replied, and then he\\nstormed her out of the room. Jose, the Guia guide,\\nand two or three others, stood in the quadrangle, on\\nthe other side, smiling and shrugging their shoulders\\nbut whenever Don Ramon turned his head that way\\nall such levity ended. I never saw such a domestic\\ntyrant. He was a bachelor to tame a Xantippe.\\nAfter a cup of chocolate of unrivalled excellence\\nyou would not get such chocolate in the house of a\\nmarried man, said my friend, with elation), we went\\nout to view the town. The church came first a", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "i6o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nbuilding newly restored, with white walls, and\\ngreen railings in its white bell-tower. Don Ramon\\nwould not enter the church. He committed me to\\nthe cura] and himself stood outside with his back\\nto the porch, his short legs wide apart, smoking a\\nstout cigar from his own factory. As for the priest,\\nhe was a very ignorant person. He guessed at the\\nmeaning of the daubs on the walls, and guessed\\nwrongly. To show the date of the ancient missals\\nstill in use, he put his unclean thumb on the epoch of\\nthe enunciation of a certain canon. The silver can-\\ndlesticks, monstrances, figures of the crucified Christ\\nand the Virgin being decked for the festival of the\\nweek, the bier for the dead, draped with festoons of\\ndusty paper flowers these things, however, he took\\npride in showing me and in dilating upon their\\nintrinsic worth and magnificence.\\nDon Ramon was more anxious to show a stranger\\nthe town club than the town church. In its estab-\\nlishment he had been prime mover and the billiard\\nroom, library replete with old periodicals, and theatre,\\nwere all deducible from him. The drop scene of the\\nstage of the theatre was a particular wonder. The\\nblinds of the room had to be drawn, the lamps lit,\\nand the day turned into night that I might admire\\nthe artist s ingenuity, and guessthe subject his genius\\nhad evoked for the joy of Granadilla. The perspec-\\ntive was shocking, and it was not without an effort\\nthat I recognised the church just visited, and the\\norange trees which proclaimed Granadilla itself.\\nAfter the club, we visited a tobacco factory, one of\\nDon Ramon s own. The fields were within hail of the", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "ON TO ARICO.\\n161\\ntown, and here, in the different rooms of two small\\nhouses, their produce was dried, sorted, rolled by the\\ndeft fingers of three men, and finally packed and\\nlabelled by sundry girls. At Don Ramon s kind\\ncommand, an embarrassing cigar, a foot long, was\\nmade and presented to me, and others of various\\nbrands the most costly selling in Madrid for 40s.\\nthe hundred.\\nBy this, it was time to say good-bye to my odd\\ngood friend. At parting I was rude enough to ex-\\npress the wish that he might soon change his state\\nof single blessedness. But he received the wish with\\na hard smile that told how ill it fitted with his as-\\npirations. No, no, senor, soltero sicmpre (always\\na bachelor he said, with decision a Dios\\nThe Guia guide was eager to gossip about Don\\nRamon as soon as we were out of the town. Rich\\nI believe it, senor, said he, Why, Don Ramon owns\\nhouses and lands, and mills for tobacco, sugar, and\\ngofio and only one mouth to feed with it all\\nAve Maria! that is a rich man, without doubt\\nIn the nine miles of track from Granadilla to Arico\\nwe passed over much hot stony land, divested of\\ntrees. The red and white rocks were in some places\\npicturesque, and the clouded mountains to the left\\nwere so throughout. At the entrance to the village\\nof Rio, six miles on our way, we had to cross a\\nyawning bavranco of the most tiresome kind. A\\nman might throw a stone over it, and yet we spent\\nnearly an hour in descending its precipitous walls\\nto the stagnant yellow puddles in its bed, and then\\ntoiling up the light-brown rock on the other side.\\n12", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nIn the neighbourhood of Rio, where the surface is\\nformed of singularly even strata of hard grayish\\ntufa, are several hundred troglodytes. They may\\nbe regarded as direct descendants of the Guanches,\\nwho, five hundred years ago, also lived in caves on\\nthis side of the island, and may be, in the same caves.\\nThe holes run in regular streets, and vents cut in the\\nupper layer of rock serve as chimneys. At the in-\\nvitation of a proprietor, I entered his house. It was\\nin two parts, the sleeping-room divided by a natural\\nwall from the stable and kitchen, where an ass lay\\namong the pots and pans. The ceiling was certainly\\nlow, but had been chiselled smoothly. But the\\nchief charm of these dwellings is their coolness.\\nThe Governor- General at Santa Cruz, with a bower\\nof orange trees and tropical shrubs enclosing his\\npalace, cannot enjoy so exhilarating a temperature\\nas these poor troglodytes, who depend for their\\nlivelihood upon the one little ass they let for hire\\nwhen an occasion offers, upon the roots of this hard\\nungenerous soil, and the rare opportunities of manual\\nlabour. This particular cave also held a weaving\\nframe of a rude kind, and the swarthy housewife\\ncontroled it while watching her various children,\\nand calming the squeals of her baby. The gofio\\nmill, besides, is an essential in every household.\\nIt is difficult to say whether travel has an\\nenlarging or a repressive effect upon the human\\nsympathies as a whole. But, in some respects, I am\\nafraid it tends inevitably to harden the heart. In\\nthis cave the flies were upon the walls in clots.\\nOutside it was worse. Mv mare was in an agony.", "height": "3732", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "FLIES.\\n163\\nThey stung her where she could not protect herself.\\nThe consequence was that she kicked methodically\\nas some relief for her pain. How many of the flies\\nI killed with the handle of my fly-whip, prone upon\\nthe neck of the mare, I should shudder to conjecture\\ndid I think that retribution awaited whomsoever\\ndeprived a living being of its life. In fact, I learnt\\nto pity Nero that, by the ignorance of those who live\\nin temperate regions, and know little of the pests\\nthat appertain to heat, he should have been gibbeted\\nin the minds of so many well-princrpled boys and\\ngirls as the very king of cowardly tyrants, because\\nhe found pastime in the massacre of flies. How\\nshould you like to be eaten alive by these industrious\\nlittle creatures Yet this is the fate of numerous\\nasses and horses that are prevented from using the\\nmeans of protection supplied to them by nature.\\nThe animal does not disappear in infinitesimal\\nmorsels, all at once, in the midst of a swarm of\\ncountless house-flies. Hardly. But this is true,\\nthat many a one begins the summer with a stout,\\nunfractured hide, and ends it covered with red\\nwounds and holes, due more or less to the flies.\\nA weak animal may readily succumb to this inces-\\nsant torture, and thus be the victim, absolutely, of\\nthese same flies.\\nHaving drunk a little of the yellow water which\\nwas the best these poor cave-dwellers could offer us,\\nwe went on to Arico. We were in the aridest part\\nof Tenerife a land scorched by the sun throughout\\nthe year, and with little or no soil over its rocks.\\nThe outer fringe of the Cariadas falls steeply here,", "height": "3744", "width": "2300", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "1 64\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nintersected by vast ravines. The entire slope is\\nveined with lava deposits and the blue sea that\\nwashes its shores breaks into foam upon the sharp\\nedges of caves which at one time were undisturbed\\ncells (gaseous bubbles) in the stream of scoriae from\\nthe Canadas. On this torrid incline, among some\\npatches of languishing barley and beans, are a few\\nwhite houses the majority dilapidated, not one im-\\nposing. This is the village of Arico, a forlorn place\\nand thither we went, with but dim assurance of a\\nreception, still, less a welcome, from any one.\\nBut here again the Guia guide proved his discre-\\ntion and thoughtfulness. He went straight to the\\nhouse that seemed in best repair, and stated our case\\nwith homely eloquence. And, after a brief confabu-\\nlation between two or three burgesses and their\\nwives, I was installed in the upper room of a house,\\napproached by an outside wooden ladder. The\\nmaster of the house, a stout, sly, sleek man, was\\neffusive in his welcome, and unduly apologetic.\\nCasa dc campo only, senor, he said. But the\\nheart is as warm in a poor cottage as in a king s\\npalace. He had migrated years ago to Havana, and\\nthere been so uncivilly used by fortune that he had\\nserved as a dock porter. And my health suffered. I\\nwas glad, therefore, to come home again. And now\\nhere I am with a wife, several little children, and an\\nold mother, all upon my hands. I do my best, but\\nit is hard, senor, and me not much money.\\nThese last words were in English, he having\\npicked up shreds of the language by intercourse with\\nEnglish dockmen and others. Out of compliment,", "height": "3732", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "EXCITEMENT IN ARICO.\\n165\\nI suppose, he continued to afflict me by remember-\\ning other unpleasant phrases and adjectives, and\\nproferring them with a whine. I am afraid it is fair\\nto assume that the man who harps on his own mis-\\nfortunes is either soft of wit, or devoid of principle.\\nIn Arico I met a brother of Don Ramon of\\nGranadilla, a gentleman with fewer prejudices than\\nthe Spanish grandee commonly possesses. He was\\nstupefied at the idea of English ladies ascending the\\nPeak but, on the other hand, he admitted that if the\\nCanarian girls were allowed to run about and play\\nlike their English sisters, unrestrained by rules of\\netiquette, it would be better for them than their\\npresent confined life. Serior Garcia, unlike his\\nbrother, was married, and he too was very rich.\\nLater in the evening, I found him in an outhouse\\ntossing dice with half a dozen ill-looking men.\\nSuch condescension costs a Spaniard but little.\\nHe avers that gentility is of blood, not money and\\nwhere is the Spaniard whose blood is not as blue as\\nhe would have it to be\\nAfter dinner my landlord thought to amuse me\\nwith a little of life behind the scenes in a country\\nvillage of Tenerife. He summoned two or three of\\nthe gilded youth of Arico, and we all walked to the\\noutskirts of the place, to a little cavern cut in the\\nrock. It was a comfortless hole, with the rain that\\nchanced to be falling filtering through the tufa of\\nthe ceiling in our midst but I sat on a stool, willing\\nto be entertained. An ancient hag kept this den,\\nand, being bidden, put before us a dish of salted\\nwater, raw beans, and a bottle of wine. The", "height": "3756", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nyoung men fillipped the beans at the nose of the old\\nlad} 7 and as her nose was large and red, it was a\\nmark easy to hit. But this was not proper usage\\nfor the beans. They were to be eaten from the\\nsalted water with the wine. Later, in came three\\ngirls. They were very alluring by the faint light of\\nour one tallow candle. But they were not modest\\ngirls, and when the bean fillipping was extended to\\nthem they accepted the challenge with such vigour\\nthat in a few moments the place was like a battle-\\nfield. The worst of it was that the boldest (indeed\\nshe was also the prettiest) of the girls asked me\\npoint blank if I was not in love with her black\\neyes. Having given her the admiration she wanted,\\nI found myself yawning with such determination that\\nthere was nothing for it but to wish the merrymakers\\ngood-night and go off to bed, leaving behind,\\nno doubt, a desperately low opinion of English\\ngallantry.", "height": "3740", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER X.\\nA dilemma Spanish generosity The Barranco de Herque\\nFasnea The genial householder A downpour Escobonal\\nand the carretara View of Guimar\u00e2\u0080\u0094 The procession of\\nHoly Thursday Fanaticism Candelaria Rude burial\\nThe camel Santa Cruz Strategy Laguha Orotava.\\nMuch rain fell during this night at Arico, and the\\ncountry looked very lowering early the next day.\\nThe clouds hung in slow-moving masses over the\\nmountain sides, and their big shadows embraced us\\nand the town, and reached even to the shore. Here,\\nhowever, the sparkling blue of the sea, lit by the\\nsun, was in brilliant contrast to our gloom. The\\nrain had had a wonderfully freshening effect upon\\nour surroundings. The close atmosphere reeked\\nwith the perfume of wild mint and thyme, and the\\nlean yellow barley, and the poppies thick among it,\\nwere strung with water-drops. This rain was also\\nthe talk of the town. Everyone out of doors was\\nwrapped to the mouth in his white mauta, and, while\\nspeaking, held his hand before his lips for fear of the\\ndamp. Of course you will not go on to-day!\\nthey said to me. And then they told dubious tales\\nabout the perils of the barrancos, and the roaring\\ntorrents that the mountain downpour would cast", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "i68\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS,\\ninto them. Jose, too, sidled up, with a straw in his\\nmouth, and said the mare could not do more than\\nshe could.\\nLittle as I cared to stay in Arico, a deterrent\\nworse than the weather was like to have kept me\\nthere for a time. The worthy ex-Havana dockman\\npresented me with a bill out of all proportion to\\nreason and as I had no inordinate supply of money\\nwith me, the payment of it would have left me\\npenniless for the two days hence to Santa Cruz.\\nExpostulation did but make the man whine about\\nhis duty to his family, and the few travellers who\\ncame that way it is therefore necessary to make\\nthe most of one when he does come, said he) he\\ncould neither abate nor trust me. But in the midst\\nof the turmoil appeared Senor Garcia, the brother of\\nDon Ramon. He was no sooner enlightened about\\nthe matter than he sent a servant for a roll of\\ndollars, and put them into my hands. Take what\\nyou want, he said, and turned his back. I was\\nrejoiced, of course. But the good Spaniard, on his\\npart, would not even receive an acknowledgment of\\nthe loan. Nor was this the limit of his benefaction.\\nHe summoned a weatherwise man, and by the side\\nof a well held solemn debate about the clouds and\\nthe barrancos, until the danger of our way grew\\ntenuous and even visionary. Then he procured a\\nguide towards the next village, and, everything being\\nin order, I mounted the mare and left Arico. I have\\nbeen thus prolix in the narrative of our trouble in\\nthis place that I might the better portray the kind-\\nness and courtesy of this typical Spanish gentleman.", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "THE BARRANCO DE HER QUE.\\n169\\nTo know such a man is more educative than an\\noctavo volume of solid moral maxims.\\nThe new guide did not stay with us long. He\\nwent off to his goats, bequeathing to Jose so verbose\\na description of his duties and the country that the\\nboy wrinkled his forehead with anxiety. It was in\\ntruth a frightful tract of land. But for occasional\\npuny little parallelograms of barley, growing miser-\\nably in the red, stony soil, I should have said it was\\nabsolutely sterile. The heat, too, got suffocating.\\nBoth of us, and the mare, panted for breath as we\\nclimbed wearily over the whitened rocks towards the\\ntown, high up in the hills, which was to be our first\\nstage that day. The flies were insufferable. But\\ntowards noon even they seemed overmastered by the\\nclose atmosphere, and we three creatures struggling\\nupwards were the only movables in sight. In spite\\nof the prognostications of Arico, we found no water\\nin the ravines until we reached the clouds, about\\n2,000 feet above the sea.\\nOn our way we were confronted with the barranco\\nde Herque, celebrated as the site of the catacomb or\\nPantheon wherein Viera saw a thousand Guanche\\nmummies. It is a gigantic rift, with sides so nearly\\nperpendicular that we had to proceed to its very\\nmouth, where it debouches upon the sea in a cove of\\nfine smooth sand, before we could cross it and then\\nfollow its hot stony bed inland until a feasible incline\\nof its brown walls, clumped with euphorbia, is per-\\nceptible. This inviting little cove has doubtless been\\noften visited by English and other sailors in search\\nof Guanche mummy medicaments. But it would try", "height": "3744", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "i7o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe nerve of the most skilful mastheadman to climb\\nto the caves of this barranco, which, from their posi-\\ntion and aspect, were most likely to reward the\\nexplorer for his pains.\\nWe reached the village of Fasnea and the skirt of\\nthe clouds at about 2 p.m. Fasnea is only a league\\nfrom Arico, yet it had cost us four hours of our time\\nWe were glad to have done with the repellent\\nvicinity of Arico. The sun had scorched and\\nblistered us like the near flames of a furnace. If\\nsuch were the case early in April, one might well\\nperspire at the mere thought of the same country in\\nJuly or August, with the added charm of a south\\nwind blowing hot from the Sahara upon the shore.\\nBelow Fasnea we stepped into a water flood that soon\\nsoaked us to the skin. Jose wore nothing over his\\nbrown body but a thin cotton jacket, and this now\\nadhered to him like a new skin. For an hour we\\nfought against the downpour then the apparition of\\na pleasant house, with blue and green paint upon it,\\ndrew us to a pause. It was lunch time, moreover.\\nBut what was the housewife likely to say to such\\nsopped rats as us Jose, however, did not give her\\nmuch chance of objecting. He even treated the\\nmatter so cavalierly as to offsaddle the mare, carry\\nher gear into the reception room, and set it down, all\\nslobbering with rain, under an engraving of the\\npatron saint of gardeners (St. Fiacre). It is\\nnothing, caballcro nothing at all exclaimed the\\nhousewife. She was a stout, hearty young matron,\\nwith a dark moustache and she laughed at our\\nproceedings. She did more she gave us dried figs", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "A LITTLE DAMP.\\n171\\nfrom her own garden, wine of her own pressing, and\\nhunches of barley bread, the material for a sound\\nmeal and she uttered monosyllables of satisfaction\\nin a deep bass voice while she stood with her arms\\nin her fat sides, watching us eat. During the feast\\nthe mare, with all her grace of deportment drowned\\nout of her, put her head into the room through the\\nwindow. It was a pretty scene, this cheerful apart-\\nment, with its mirrors and pictures of uncommon\\nsaints, adorned with tinsel paper the portly, dark-\\nskinned lady filling the foreground the tender face\\nof the good mare bending over the senora s shoulder\\nto get the bread with which she tempted it Jose,\\nshowing his teeth with spasmodic grins and the\\ndripping foliage of the fir trees and shrubs in the\\ngarden behind the mare But the lady marred the\\nromance of the situation by accepting, in conclusion,\\nabout four times as much money as the worth of\\nwhat we, including the mare, had consumed.\\nProbably, after all, the wetted boards went to her\\nstout heart.\\nThe rain continued to swill from the clouds in\\nspite of our tarrying. Once again we went into\\nbrief shelter. This time we were on the edge of a\\nbarranco, but, at the invitation of a countrywoman,\\nwith a cock in a basket on her head, we joined her\\nunder a slab of rock. Here we saw the rapid growth\\nof a torrent in the ravine. At first the barranco was\\nhardly more than moist. But while we crouched,\\nnumberless brown frothing streamlets drained down\\nfrom its sides into its bed. We did not delay long\\nfor an hour later it promised to hurl about the", "height": "3756", "width": "2220", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "172\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nimmense bluish boulders, which are ordinarily the\\nonly litter of these dry, hot crevices.\\nFrom Fasnea to Escobonal, still in the mountains,\\nis only about half an hour and here, with mixed\\nfeelings, we clambered up from the old track we had\\nfollowed for the last four days, and attained the\\ncarrctara, or coach road, which is completed from\\nSanta Cruz thus far in this direction. Jose sighed\\nwith contentment. Thenceforward, he would have\\nmuch less care for the mare s shoes, and it would be\\nimpossible to lose the way. But to me it was not so\\npleasant thus to come plump upon the methods of\\ncivilization after our rough but happy shifts for\\nnearly a week. However, it is one thing for a\\nNational Board of Works to make admirable roads,\\nand another for the people to use them. Between\\nEscobonal and Guimar (about five miles) we met\\nnot one vehicle of any kind. But now and again we\\nsaw an agile man or woman, who, in following the\\nold, more direct, though steeper, path, had to climb\\nover the walls of the new road. This and the grass\\non the excellent highway were somewhat insulting\\nto the authorities but what could be done in\\nremedy An innovation so serious probably affected\\nthe country folk here much as the railway affected\\nour own peasantry fifty years ago. As a spectacle it\\nwas superb, but rather demoniacal.\\nA sudden turn round a cape of rock in the vicinity\\nof Escobonal gave us an impressive view of Santa\\nCruz, about twenty-eight miles away. The capital\\nwas in sunlight, while we were in black shadow. It\\nstretched from the mainland as a dazzling white", "height": "3744", "width": "2304", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "THE VALE OF GUIMAR.\\n173\\nline, with the Anaga peaks behind it. Hence, also,\\nthe island of Grand Canary about thirty-five miles\\ndistant was very clear.\\nWe now crossed the grandiose barranco Badajos,\\nand mounted gradually, to descend into the Vale of\\nGuimar. The barrancos were no longer a trial, for\\nthey were all spanned by the blue and white lava-\\nstone bridges, which are so creditable a feature of\\nthe carretara of Tenerife. But Jose, like the natives,\\nshunned the carretara. I constantly thought he\\nwas lost, and was only reassured by seeing him\\nappear in front, dropping down the sides of a\\nred or purple bluff of rock, heedless of the nopals\\nand euphorbia which threatened him on all\\nquarters. Thus it happened that the Vale of\\nGuimar burst upon me, all unprepared, with another\\nabrupt turning round the edge of an immense moun-\\ntain wall. It was a satisfying sight. Humboldt\\naffirmed that the Vale of Orotava is the most beauti-\\nful in the world. To my mind, Guimar is more\\nbeautiful than Orotava, although it lacks the Peak\\nitself as an element in its picture. But Humboldt\\ndid not see Guimar.\\nI was about a thousand feet above the valley or\\namphitheatre when it was unfolded to me, the road\\nbeing cut in the side of a precipitous mountain. The\\ntown lay below, a brilliant congeries of white houses,\\ndotted with palm trees, and set on a slope of the Cor-\\ndillera running from the Cailadas towards Laguna.\\nThe mountains of this cordillera are 6,000 to 7,000\\nfeet high, and so steep from Guimar that the sharp\\nvermillion and olive summits are little more than a", "height": "3760", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "174\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nleague from the houses of the town. Angular\\nshoulders fall from the range into the valley, shaded\\nwith pines on their crests, and with thickets of wild\\nfig, quince, and other fruit trees, and myriads of\\nprickly pear lower down. The background to Guimar\\nis therefore much bolder than that of Orotava, from\\nwhich its amphitheatre of mountains is several miles\\ndistant. At Guimar, as at Orotava, the country\\nbetween the town and the sea in the foreground is\\ndiversified by volcanic ash humps, monstrous me-\\nmentoes of the troubled past that may at any time be\\nrepeated in fresh trouble.\\nBut it is the singular broad scene of devastation\\nthat makes the valley so much more impressive than\\nOrotava. Viewed from above, the area of decom-\\nposing lava south of the town seems prodigious. It\\nis mapped out into hundreds of little paddocks,\\nwhere vines and fig trees are gradually thrusting\\ntheir roots into the soil underneath the crust of ruin\\nwhich has covered it for scores of years. Yet, in\\nstern and most emphatic proof that all this labour\\nmay at any time become labour lost, are two wide\\nlines, intensely black, permeating the valley, and\\nrunning seawards. They proceed from one of the\\nhinder peaks, and are the lava streams of 1704 and\\n1705, when the hapless residents of Guimar experi-\\nenced ten or twelve earthquake shocks every day for\\nthree continuous months. These inky scores give\\ngrand colouring to this extraordinary landscape. The\\nglory of the crimson mountain tops, the vivid greenery\\nof many tints where tobacco, sugar-cane, maize,\\nand every vegetable of common use, dye the fields", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "THE INN OF GUIMAR.\\n175\\nrecovered from the old lava, the white houses, the\\nwisps of cloud floating about the hill slopes, and the\\nred-brown walls of rock, west of the valley, studded\\nwith a various garb of shrubs, cannot reconcile one\\nto the fatal significance of these two dark still rivers\\nof destruction. Nature is here distinctly a fearful\\nmonster, for ever devouring her own offspring.\\nWith such thoughts in my head, and listening to\\nthe sweet tones of the Guimar bells, the mare and I\\nslowly descended into the valley. It was the eve of\\nHoly Thursday. We were just in time for the cere-\\nmonies of Holy Week.\\nGuimar is a town of some importance, with about\\n5000 inhabitants, and daily coach service connection\\nwith Santa Cruz. It has, therefore, an inn an inn\\nSpanish to the backbone. At the outset, Jose had\\nto stand for a few minutes, cap in hand, pleading\\nearnestly with the innkeeper to give us a lodging.\\nThe man was of great size, and eyed me and the\\nmare for some time, questioning Jose about both of\\nus, ere he preferred any sort of an invitation to enter\\nhis house. Moreover, as he kept a shop as well as an\\ninn, and customers were numerous, during this period\\nof uncertainty he vanished now and again to attend\\nto his clients. This apparent neglect seemed to send\\nthe mare to sleep, and whilst she slept I smoked\\ncigarettes upon her stalwart back. Perhaps, in the\\nend, it was our common affectation of indifference\\nto the shocks and slights of fortune, that made the\\nman at last order the boy to lead the mare to the\\nstable, and bring out a three-legged stool for my use.\\nA bed, seflor said he, like one solving a pro-", "height": "3764", "width": "2224", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "176\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nblem why, without doubt But it is my wife s\\naffair: she will arrange it. What I want to know is\\nwhat your worship (su merced) would like for dinner.\\nAfterwards, tell me what you think of the country.\\nIt was a comfort to know the matter was settled.\\nI had heard hard tales about this Guimar inn. But\\nthe truth is that its master and mistress were people\\nto be approached with tact, and rather flattered into\\ncomplaisance than forced into anything. It was only\\nafter delicate manoeuvring that I contrived to make\\nthe lady of the house understand how grateful I\\nshould feel if she gave me clean sheets to my bed.\\nBut when I put the request before her so as to cast\\nno slur upon her establishment, she humoured my\\neccentric tastes in this and other particulars. Later,\\nshe served the dinner with her own hands, in a mas-\\nterful but kindly way. It was an excellent meal, with\\nfair wine. Her face shone with pleasure when I\\npraised it, and I believe I made her completely happy\\nfor an hour when, over the bananas and oranges, I\\nquestioned her little boy about his studies, and com-\\nplimented him upon his erudition. The youngster\\ncould not, I am glad to say, devote much time to\\nthis sort of cross-examination. The tolling of the\\nbells made him run away to church, where he was to\\njoin the procession as a scarlet acolyte.\\nHe has a sweet voice, remarked his mother,\\nand the cum thinks much of his singing. But for my\\npart she added, with a sigh I wish the poor boy\\ndid not squint in his left eye. He might have a\\nvoice Hke a crow, but I would be happy, Ave Maria\\nif he could only see straight also. It was true that", "height": "3744", "width": "2400", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "THE PROCESSION OF HOLY THURSDA Y. 177\\nthe lad squinted, but he was so intelligent that the\\nmisfortune seemed lost upon him.\\nFrom my bedroom, with a saint on each of the\\nwalls, I soon followed the boy towards the church of\\nGuimar. The people of the town are reputed to be\\nthe most fanatical in the island in religious matters.\\nTheir priests are omnipotent. A word from them\\nwould almost suffice for an auto da fe and he were\\na bold person who dared to air an heretical or\\nliberal notion within their jurisdiction.\\nUnluckily, I did not learn that Guimar bore this\\ncharacter until I had left it. I thought it no wrong\\nto go into the town in riding attire and a white hat.\\nTo be sure, it was soon evident that the citizens and\\ntheir families at the windows of the houses and on\\nthe roofs, were all in black and bareheaded. But, as\\na stranger, methought I might be excused for only\\npartial conformity to their customs. It was not so,\\nhowever. For a time, all went well. I joined the\\nthrong who followed the statues of Christ bearing\\nthe cross, and the Mater Dolorosa in purple velvet,\\nas they were carried through the street by a file of\\ncrimson-robed ecclesiastics, boys with lamps and can-\\ndles, and a band of musicians who marched with\\ninverted muskets, and played sad, moving melodies.\\nBut the scene and its surroundings, with the dull,\\nunintelligent faces of the men and boys of the crowd,\\nsoon depressed me to such a degree that I left the\\nprocession and went to the side path of the Plaza,\\nthrough which the images were being borne to the\\nchurch at its extremity. Here I caused displeasure\\nby putting on my hat. I did wrong, no doubt, in\\n13", "height": "3756", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "178\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nforgetting where I was but I am sorry to say that\\nthe harsh, insolent, and even savage cries of the by-\\nstanders acted upon me like an irritant. The con-\\nsequence was that for the length of the Plaza (about\\na hundred and fifty yards), I ran the gauntlet of gibes,\\nsneers, and even menaces, to the very door of the\\nchurch. One youth approached to unbonnet me,\\nbut he forbore to do so. It was a wholly discomfort-\\ning and merited humiliation, and I wished myself\\nfar from this parish church of Guimar. The very\\npriests, who ought to have poured oil on this public\\nexhibition of ill-feeling, did but scowl on me where I\\nstood within the porch, while they all passed by to-\\nwards the sanctuary and men, women, and children\\nwere not slow to follow the example of their spiritual\\nrulers. The little acolyte of the inn, with a gilded\\nlamp in his hand, seemed no better than the rest.\\nHe stared with horror, as if I had nothing in com-\\nmon with the person to whom he had so recently\\ndiscoursed, in calm mental unrestraint, about the\\ncountries of Europe and their respective capitals.\\nBut perhaps the poor lad s affection of the eye made\\nhis looks discordant with his feelings.\\nHowever, as I had no mind to humble myself in\\npublic after these various slights and insults, I stayed\\nin the church as long as I pleased, and then retraced\\nmy steps through the Plaza, to all appearance, I hope,\\noblivious of the existence of the hundreds of Guimar\\ncitizens and youths who still kept at their doors.\\nThey, on their part, did not hesitate to continue their\\ncoarse and derisive remarks, which I allowed to enter\\nat one ear and go out into the air by the other. But", "height": "3736", "width": "2408", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "BROUGHT UP ON GOFIO.\\n179\\nwhen I reached the inn, and had well considered the\\nmatter with a cigar, upon the roof of the building,\\naided by a mild, bright moon, and a sweet aroma of\\ncut sugar canes, I passed judgment upon myself. It\\nwas certain that I had met with my deserts. In\\nGuimar, as in Rome, one ought to follow the fashion.\\nEarly on Holy Thursday, we left Guimar for our\\nlast stage but one. The day was warm, and the\\nscenery, for Tenerife, tame. For the whole twenty\\nmiles we followed the carretara, now almost touching\\nthe sea, and again bending inland, until the coast was\\nscreened by intervening hills.\\nWe halted but once during this brisk journey. It\\nwas at a lowly wayside wine shop, nearly as full of\\nchildren as flies and all mine, said the country-\\nwoman who kept the shop, referring to the children.\\nI counted nine, and others were with their father,\\npelting stones at the goats on the hill sides. In\\nTenerife it costs little to rear a large family.\\nGofio is the common food, as in the days of the\\nGuanches. It is taken dry, by mouthfuls, with\\nglasses of wine or water to wash it down or it is\\nmade into dough, and so eaten or, if the peasant\\ncan afford to be luxurious, it is mixed with honey,\\nmilk, or coffee. For the man unused to gofio, no-\\nthing is more apt to induce death by choking. But\\nit is a nutriment well suited to the Canarians. They\\nwill walk all day upon the strength of a couple of\\nhandfuls of it.\\nA few miles from Guimar, nestling by the coast, is\\nthe ancient port and shrine of Candelaria. This little\\nvillage used to be the holiest place of pilgrimage in", "height": "3744", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "i8o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe islands. Here, in the time of the Guanches, the\\nVirgin appeared and consented to dwell in a lowly\\ncave which the troubled natives prepared for her. Of\\ncourse the Guanches did not identify her as Maria\\nSantissima; but the legend says that they so revered\\nher (although she severely punished the ignorant goat-\\nherds who on first seeing her threw stones to frighten\\nher away from their flocks) as to regret nothing so\\nmuch as her removal by the early Spaniards, who\\nwere astounded to discover the image in a land they\\nthought absolutely heathen. Afterwards, the Virgin\\nwas restored to her original cave, which grew into a\\ngrotto, surrounded by monastic and other buildings\\nfor those who came to do her honour. When the\\nisland was disturbed by war, pestilence, locusts,\\nfloods, or volcanoes, it was to the Virgin of Cande-\\nlaria that the people ran as a supreme resource.\\nThe statue was then ceremoniously paraded through\\nthe stricken district, and the wonder was worked.\\nBut, in 1705, when the locality was shaken by\\nnumerous earthquakes, the image itself was trans-\\nported, for safety, to Laguna. This Virgin of\\nCandelaria, the main theme of Viana s epic,\\nwas in 1826 washed out to sea by a flood in the\\nbarranco which held the grotto. The present glory\\nof Candelaria is therefore posthumous glory. But\\nif, as certain irreverent writers aver, the original\\nimage was only the figure-head of a ship, driven\\nashore, the sea did but receive its own again.\\nThe country between Guimar and Santa Cruz\\nis thinly populated. We passed two or three old\\nchurches or hermitages, but at considerable distances", "height": "3744", "width": "2408", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "THE UNWELCOME CAMEL. 181\\nfrom each other. This explained the presence of a\\nblack and yellow coffin in a certain rock hole near the\\nroad side. The coffin contained an occupant lying\\nunder a loose lid, fast decomposing in the lime which\\nhad been heaped over it. It may be that nothing\\nexcept bones will remain when a convenient oppor-\\ntunity for burial arrives or burial in consecrated\\nground may be avoided altogether.\\nAnother trivial incident of our journey may be\\nmentioned. We were nearing the capital when the\\nungainly form of a camel came swinging along the\\nhigh road. There are but two or three of these\\nbrutes in Tenerife, though Lanzarote and Fuerteven-\\ntura have them by hundreds. The mare could hardly\\nbe expected therefore to take kindly to the apparition.\\nA brace of paniers were hung across the camel s\\nbackbone, and on each side sat a peasant woman,\\nrising and falling as if she were on the sea. The\\nbeast approached the mare stopped still, set her\\nears back, trembled, and then bounded off at a\\ntangent, almost transfixing me upon a hedge of aloes.\\nHere I kept her until the grinning countrywomen\\nhad slouched uneasily by but for the rest of the\\nmorning she saw camels in every gate or building by\\nthe highway.\\nThus we descended into the white city of Santa\\nCruz, on the afternoon of Holy Thursday, in time for\\na surfeit of religious processions, and to hear so inces-\\nsant a clapping of muffled church bells that one s\\nhead revolted against the noise. Most of the shops\\nwere shut. The ships in the harbour carried their\\nflags at half-mast. Citizens, with their wives and", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "182\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nchildren, all in sleek black, walked about the\\nstreets with an air of depression, or entered the\\nchurches at intervals, to kneel with the crowd that\\ncovered the pavements throughout the day. Now\\nand then, the precise step of a body of soldiers\\nsounded heavily at the church porches. Headed by\\ntheir officers, they marched up the aisle to the altar\\nrails, knelt for two or three minutes, and then, with\\nmilitary clatter, retraced their way into the street.\\nOn the following day, Good Friday, we had to use\\nstrategy to leave the town. An official order for-\\nbade other vehicles than the mail coach to pass\\nthrough the streets. It was thought that the mare\\nwould be included as a vehicle. Accordingly, by tor-\\ntuous ways, we avoided the viceregal palace, on the\\nhigh road, where a military cordon was stationed to\\nprevent such desecration of the day. The same\\ntrouble threatened us at Laguna, and might have kept\\nus between the two towns for four and twenty hours.\\nIt was therefore with some trembling that we trod\\nthe grassy streets of the old capital. The mare\\nmade a pitiless uproar, poor beast, irritated by flies\\nand the slippery stones, and many a citizen turned a\\nhard eye of condemnation on us both as, wrapped to\\nthe nose in his cloak, he bent his steps towards the\\nCathedral. However, we got safely through, and a\\ngood gallop carried us far from the fringe of danger.\\nAfter Santa Cruz and Laguna, we were careless of\\nthe knots of villagers in their best clothes at\\nTacoronte, Matanza, Victoria, and Santa Ursala\\nthough they muttered, and tried to make the mare\\nshy. The road between the various churches and", "height": "3744", "width": "2400", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "RETURN TO PUERTO.\\n183\\nthe Calvaries, whither the statues of the dead Christ\\nwere taken for the night, was bestrewn with rose\\nand geranium leaves, and palm fronds were set in the\\nground in avenues. We caught glimpses of these\\nprocessions here and there priests in red robes,\\nacolytes, lamps, banners, and images, and heard the\\ndirges which went with them. But neither the mare\\nnor I were disposed to stop for anything during this\\nride to Orotava. The flies goaded the poor animal\\nso that she was almost beside herself. She found no\\nrelief except in brisk movement. As for Jose, it was\\nvain to think that he could keep up with us on this\\nroad worthy of Macadam. He did not reach his\\nstable in Puerto until the mare had been warmly\\nembraced and welcomed by Lorenzo, her master, and\\nhad rested for two full hours after the various labours\\nof the past week.", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XL\\nEaster morning A Guanche festival Bencomo The city of\\nLaguna Its history The romance of Dacil and Castillo\\nThe pestilence of Laguna Ecclesiastical appropriations\\nPublic festivities and mourning The miraculous sweat\\nSome governors of the Canaries Bishop Murga s in-\\njunctions\u00e2\u0080\u0094The expulsion of the Jesuists Laguna as\\nit is.\\nI rode from Orotava to Laguna on the morning of\\nEaster day. The air was fresh and moist from noc-\\nturnal rains. The vines were beaded with water-\\ndrops. Canaries and thrushes carolled from amid\\nthe blossoms of the roadside trees. The sea to the\\nfarthest promontories of the land was quiet and glis-\\ntening. The white head of the Peak uprose through\\nthe clouds, against the blue. Nature was gay, as if\\nshe too .were celebrating a resurrection and she was\\ncalm, as if she were content with herself.\\nAccording to Viana, the Guanches held a festival\\nwhich in the calendar corresponds nearly with the\\nChristian Easter. The last nine days of April were\\nholidays. If the kings of Tenerife were at war one\\nwith another, they then established a truce. It was\\nthe time of harvest. And when this was got in,", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "BENCOM O, THE KING.\\n185\\ngames, feasting, and jollity were the order of the day\\nuntil the truce ended.\\nThese joyous festivities were ushered in with cer-\\ntain feudal ceremonies. The king sat in state, and\\nreceived the annual homage of his people. The nobles\\nbent the knee to him, kissed his right hand and said,\\nI am thy vassal. The more considerable of the\\ncommons followed their example, kissing the left\\ninstead of the right hand of the monarch. Lastly,\\nthe multitude of plebeians humbly presented skins\\nand flowers, and, prostrate, kissed the king s feet, in\\ntoken of their abject obedience as well as their vas-\\nsalage.\\nIf there were any privileges to be confirmed or\\ngrievances to be ventilated, no doubt such business\\nfollowed this acknowledgment of fealty. But it is\\nprobable the Guanches neither had nor wanted a\\nMagna Charta. From their Westminster Hall, they\\nall flocked gaily to the sports which then were cele-\\nbrated. The king sat on a scaffold shaded by boughs\\nand leafage, with his grandfather s thigh-bone in his\\nhand, and gave the word for the troops of his realm\\nto deploy before him in the sight of all the people.\\nWould you have a sketch of King Bencomo as\\nhe was on this occasion, in 1494, while the ships\\nof the Spaniards were already on the sea approach-\\ning the island He was a gigantic man, with\\na fabulous number of teeth in his head (sesenta\\nmuelas sin los dientes), broad and brown of face,\\nwith a wrinkled brow, loose hair, piercing black\\neyes, thick prominent eyebrows, a large, wide-\\nnostrilled nose, heavy curled moustaches, fat lips,", "height": "3744", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "i86\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\na white beard down to the girth, brawny arms,\\ncovered with scars, sturdy legs, and small feet. His\\nclothing was of the finest skins. He was choleric\\nand fierce but otherwise he had every kingly virtue.\\nThus he sat, with his son and daughter (the fair\\nDacil), and his chief captains around him, and\\nscrutinized his ten thousand warriors as they marched\\nbefore him.\\nSuddenly, this placid review is disturbed. Two\\ncaptains, smitten with love for Dacil, disagree and\\nfight, and their men join in the quarrel so that the\\nhurly-burly of battle brews in a twinkling. In a rage\\nthe king leaps from his throne, and is about to speak\\nand act with severity, when the combatants, at sight\\nof him, draw apart. The enamoured captains ask\\npardon. It is granted, and straightway the next\\nscene in the Easter festival begins.\\nTables are spread, and weighted Homerically.\\nWe see gofio, or flour of barley, milk, butter, honey\\namong fruits, red strawberries and black cherries\\nmushrooms and other fungi kidlings and lambs,\\ngoats and sheep roasted whole, and dripping with\\ngravy cheese, old and new and other toothsome\\nfood. The feast continues merrily until the stars\\nare out. Then there is singing and dancing, until it\\nis time for sleep.\\nThe next day and the next are devoted to athletic\\ngames and thus, amid wrestlings and tournaments,\\neating, drinking, and all manner of junketing, the\\nnine days of holiday draw to a close.\\nIt was at such a time as this, when the fun was at\\nits height, that a hapless augur dared to forewarn", "height": "3744", "width": "2376", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "GROWTH OF LAGUNA.\\n187\\nBencomo that his kingdom was in peril from certain\\nwhite wings then sailing over the sea. By the\\nbone of my grandfather swore the king; and,\\nas we know, for his candour, the augur was strung\\nto a tree, to die ignominiously. It was a sad Easter\\nfor him, and the first of other sad Easters for the king\\nand all his men.\\nThese picturesque events occurred in the neigh-\\nbourhood of Laguna, which has since seen many\\ncurious sights, and now has an English hotel in its\\nmidst.\\nThis city of Laguna, or, to give it its full name, San\\nCristobal de la Laguna, is a very solemn place. It\\nstands on a delicious plateau in the mountains, nearly\\n2,000 feet higher than Santa Cruz, and five or six\\nmiles distant from it. In the sixteenth and the two\\nfollowing centuries, the Spanish colony with a capital\\non the seaboard, was doomed to suffer much at the\\nhands of foemen. But Laguna, safe in its mountain\\nnest, could laugh at Drake and Blake, and defy them\\nto burn its records, or ravage its church plate from\\nthe sanctuaries.\\nSo early in the history of the Spanish occupation\\nas 1561, Laguna had 7,220 inhabitants. Santa Cruz\\nthen numbered but 770. In 1670, Santa Cruz had\\nrisen to 3,728, and in 1706 to 6,847. This increase\\ncontinued though Laguna still held the lead. In\\n1797, however, by its successful resistance to Nelson,\\nSanta Cruz gained the pre-eminence in Tenerife.\\nThanks to this, it was in 1803 declared to be May\\nleal, noble I Invicta Villa, much to the rapture of\\nthe citizens and in 1821 it was made the capital of\\nthe province of the Canaries.", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "i88\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nIn vain did Laguna plead its age, its salubrious-\\nness, gentility, holiness, and central position. In the\\nintensity of its hatred for Santa Cruz, it even begged\\nthat the seat of the capital might be transferred to\\nthe island of Grand Canary, since the honour had\\ngone from itself irrecoverably. This was very currish\\nbut it was in vain. The democratic seaport had\\ntriumphed, and Laguna began to decay in earnest.\\nThis old city had, like all cities, a very small be-\\nginning. At first it was but a coterie of native huts,\\nset amid the woods bordering the small lake which\\ngave it its name. Its stragetic value was recognized\\neven by the Guanches, and as soon as the conquest\\nwas finished, the Spaniards chose it for the seat of\\nGovernment. The land rises from the north and\\nsouth shores of Tenerife, and forms an intermediate\\nplateau about ten miles long and two broad, fertile\\nand healthy. Here the city is built, surrounded by\\norchards and orange groves, with red volcanic hills\\ncumbered east and west of it, and, twenty miles\\naway, the cone of the great Peak soaring over the\\nnearer mountain shoulders. The lake has now been\\ndrained away, and vines, grain, beans and potatoes\\nhave supplanted the woods of the plain.\\nIt was in the neighbourhood of Laguna, that Dacil,\\nBencomo s pretty daughter, and Castillo, one of the\\nchief captains of the invading Spaniards, romantically\\nmet and loved. The augur who foreboded the ruin\\nof the king, told the king s daughter that her husband\\nwas to come from across the sea, but that a thousand\\ndisasters of war were to happen ere they were married.\\nThe girl believed him, though her father believed him", "height": "3744", "width": "2376", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "A GUANCHE ROMANCE.\\n189\\nnot and, clad in her native skins, with her long\\ngolden hair over her shoulders, a string of beads\\nround her fair neck, and bright eyes of expectancy,\\nshe wandered about the wood of Laguna, awaiting her\\nfortune. Then came the ships, and, by a gracious\\naccident, Castillo was commissioned to reconnoitre\\nthe land. Thirsty, he drew near to a spring, in the\\nboughs of the laurel overhanging which lay hid the\\nprincess, fearful yet exultant. Her reflection in the\\nwater met his eyes, and, heedless of its source, he fell\\nfast in love with it. Later, he looked for the reality\\nthus brightly mirrored, and, having with difficulty dis-\\ncovered her amid the leaves, he gives her his heart at\\nonce. His eyes alone bear witness for him and he\\nfreely curses that proud tower of Babel, which, by\\nconfusing the tongues of the earth, makes it impossi-\\nble for him to speak what he feels. In his sweet\\ndespair he offers her his hand, which Dacil, having\\nfrom the outset been favourably moved towards the\\nsoldier, takes as if for guidance. Then Castillo vows\\nthat he is hers for life I live in you, and without\\nyou I die, and the first act in the drama is ended.\\nTheir love being reciprocal, let it go forth for the\\nsatisfaction of all romancers that the hidalgo and the\\nsavage were eventually united by Holy Church.\\nThe cruellest scene of all in the history of the\\nGuanches, was also enacted here at Laguna. In\\nthe beginning of the war, the Spaniards were crushed\\nby Bencomo. They had to withdraw to Santa Cruz\\nto recruit and regain heart. In the meantime, the\\nGuanches mustered in great force by the lake where\\nnow stands the city of Laguna. Here, while they", "height": "3744", "width": "2288", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "190\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntarried in arms, a pestilence came upon them. In\\nten days, 6,000 of them died. The dead bodies lay\\ncorrupting in heaps, adding to the mortality. Dogs\\npreyed upon them, and grew so used to human flesh\\nthat they dared to attack the living Guanches as\\nwell as the dead. Thus, while the reinforced\\nSpaniards on the coast were timidly speculating\\nabout the wisdom of an assault upon the strong\\nposition of the natives, these were dying fast by the\\nvisitation of God. At length, an old woman en-\\nlightened them about the state of affairs on the\\nplateau. What keeps you from going into the\\nland she asked, bitterly, since every one is dead\\nof the plague. This was exaggeration. Never-\\ntheless, the scourge was fatal to the native army.\\nThe Spaniards advanced, and, with a loss of only\\nforty-five, killed seventeen hundred of the sickly\\nand enfeebled Guanches. Within little more than\\nanother year of desultory skirmishes, the island was\\nformally surrendered to Spain, Bencomo deposed, and\\nthe Princess Dacil baptized and married to Castillo.\\nThe later annals of Laguna have at least been\\nfree from bloodshed of this kind. With the founding\\nby De Lugo of the Church de la Concepcion, the\\ncity grew apace, so that in a few years thousands of\\nstout Spaniards and their wives were established\\non its lands. So early as 1500, we find the city\\na municipality, enforcing the erection of houses in\\nthe plain, by ostracizing those people who built\\non the slope or the upper town, and inflicting a\\nheavyfine upon whomsoeversupplied them withbread\\nwine, vegetables, and the other necessaries of life.", "height": "3744", "width": "2412", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "THE QUARREL OF THE CHURCHES.\\n191\\nThe clergy soon asserted themselves among these\\nsuperstitious, blustering freebooters, who were now\\ncontent to live and die in a state of civilized peace.\\nThey acquired grant after grant of property. The city\\nbecame an assemblage of monasteries and convents\\nabsolutely church-ridden. But, just as in later\\ntimes Laguna was perpetually quarrelling with Santa\\nCruz, so, in the sixteenth century, it was ever full of\\nintestine discord. The churches of the Concepcion\\nand los Remedios, both built soon after the con-\\nquest, disputed for the privilege of the Corpus Christi\\nprocessions. The municipal authorities decided in\\nfavour of los Remedios, because it was the better\\nbuilding in finish and situation. The clergy of the\\nConcepcion then laid the matter before Charles V.,\\nwho, in 1523, decreed that the two churches should\\nrespectively have charge of the procession in alter-\\nnate years. But even this great king s order had\\nno permanent effect for, in 1746, the same question\\nis brought before the sovereign, who again ruled\\nthat the church de los Remedios do not call\\nitself the principal, since the two churches are of\\nequal eminence.\\nNever was a city so promptly made amenable to\\nthe clerical yoke. For example, in 1526, it chanced\\nthat an important citizen married a certain woman,\\nin disregard of the prohibition of the Bishop s\\nVicar-General. He was at once put under an inter-\\ndict for his contumaciousness. It transpired then\\nthat, in spite of this, many of his fellow-citizens held\\nintercourse with the spiritual outlaw. The city itself\\nwas therefore excommunicated. Public service was", "height": "3760", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "192\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nsuspended. The dead were buried in uneonsecrated\\nground, c. In their esteem for their fellow-citizen,\\nthe stalwart worthies of Laguna bore this awful\\npenance for a while. Finally, however, it was\\narranged that the cause of the calamity should\\ntemporarily go into exile.\\nLaguna ever professed to be a city of extreme\\nloyalty. The king s accession and marriage, the\\nbirth of his offspring, and his death, were all cele-\\nbrated with great earnestness. The words Let\\nGod be thanked, with bulls, illuminations, and other\\ntestimonies of joy were often heard in the City\\nCouncil chamber. Thus, in 1527, on the birth of the\\nchild who afterwards became Philip II., there were\\njousts and sports in abundance. Races were run for\\nlengths of satin and damask (six yards for the first,\\nfour for the second, and three for the third) wine was\\nset flowing in the streets twelve bulls were devoted\\nto the amusement of the people and a sixpenny\\nlottery was instituted. All the blue-blooded Spaniards\\nwho had left the old country, and found rich settle-\\nment in Tenerife, were convoked to join in the cele-\\nbration and they were bidden to deck themselves\\nand their horses with all the splendour of apparel at\\ntheir command.\\nSeldom, however, has Laguna been so aroused as,\\nin 1648, by the miraculous sweat on the picture of\\nSt. John the Evangelist in the church of the Con-\\ncepcion. The face of this painting was one morning\\nfound bedewed with what appeared to be common\\nhuman sweat. Dignitaries, lay and ecclesiastical,\\nhurried to see the miracle. To convince the", "height": "3744", "width": "2404", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "THE MIR A CULOUS S WE A T.\\n193\\ndoubting, and to confirm the faith of believers, the\\npicture was wiped, the church closed, and every\\nmeans of ingress officially sealed. Notwithstanding\\nthis, the painting continued to sweat, and so for\\nforty days. It is easy now to explain this wonder as\\ndue to the separation (from sun, bad air, c.) of the\\nmercury and sulphur which composed the ver-\\nmilion used in colouring the face of the picture\\nand, therefore, to identify as the sweat the little\\nglobular points of quicksilver which would naturally\\ntrickle down the canvas. But it is not so easy to\\nunderstand the excitement caused throughout the\\nwhole island by what in those days could not fail to\\nbe regarded as a most conspicuous and local revela-\\ntion of Divine power and favour.\\nThe many governors of the islands who lived at\\nLaguna have provided some strange characters and\\nsuffered some curious vicissitudes. One governor\\nembarked at Garachico for the island of Palma,\\non an official visit, and was transported as a fat\\nprey to the Netherlands, then at war with Spain.\\nThe ship was a disguised Dutch privateer. Another\\ngovernor spent six months as a prisoner among the\\nMoors, who captured him and his vessel on their way\\nto Spain. Don Miguel de Otazo, again, is memor-\\nable for his quaint exit from the world. Though\\nalmost at the last gasp, he chose to be dressed and\\narmed from head to foot, set in a chair of state, and\\nallowed to brandish his sword with his dying\\narm. Michael! Michael! what are you doing?\\nexpostulated a father confessor who was present\\nremember that you are but dust and ashes. A\\nH", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "194\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nfew minutes afterwards he died. Don Luis Mayony\\nSalazar, a septuagenarian when he began his rule,\\nwas as obstinate a dying man as Don Miguel. The\\ndoctor wished to give him a narcotic. Take it\\nyourself retorted the invalid. Excuses did but\\nincrease the governor s determination to be obeyed,\\nand so from his death-bed he had the satisfaction to\\nsee his medical man swallow the dose, and fall\\nfast asleep instead of himself. The old gentleman\\nthen died at his ease with a smile on his lips. Don\\nDiego Navarro, another governor, by his arbitrary\\nmeasures, wrought the mild Canarians into such\\nhot hatred of him, that one night a multitude\\nassembled under the moon, rang the church bells,\\ntook the obnoxious man out of his house, mounted\\nhim on a horse, accompanied him to Santa Cruz,\\nand did not leave him until he was safely on board a\\nsailing vessel just about to lift anchor for Europe.\\nDon Andres Bonito, on the other hand, gained\\ninnocent fame as the first governor who climbed\\nthe Peak.\\nOf the long line of bishops who have governed the\\nislands in spiritual concerns, perhaps Don Cristobal\\nde la Camara y Murga made the liveliest stir. He did\\nnot use brute force to gain the respect or at least the\\nfear of his flock, like another Canarian bishop. This\\nlatter summoned the people together, and then,\\ntaking a cheese, cut it in half, and excommunicated\\none half which half, to the popular alarm, was\\nseen to be black, while the other half was of the\\ncommon colour of cheese. Don Cristobal choose\\nrather to reform abuses than work wonders. Thus", "height": "3744", "width": "2424", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "CLERICAL INJUNCTIONS.. 195\\nno sooner did he set foot in Grand Canary than he\\nissued a pastoral, convoking a diocesan synod, for\\nthe reformation of manners, and the establishment of\\na spiritual polity in the church in harmony with the\\ndecrees of the Council of Trent. Some of the insti-\\ntutes here ordained are singular and instructive of\\nthe state of Canarian society in the year 1629. The\\nclergy were to teach the Christian doctrine at least\\nevery Sunday, and during Lent and Advent, either\\nin class-rooms, or by chanting it in the streets. They\\nwere to adapt their sermons to their hearers, and\\navoid eccentric, subtle, dubious, scandalous, and the\\nlike subjects. The confessionals were to be in the\\nmost public possible parts of the church. Women\\nwere not to be shrived in the chapels nor in private\\nhouses but in open confessionals, separated from\\nthe confessor by a screen, grating or net and not\\nbefore dawn or after vespers. Privilege to receive\\nthe Holy Communion daily was rarely to be granted,\\nespecially in the case of girls of doubtful virtue. The\\nEucharist was to be denied to felons under sentence\\nof death. In treating of the clergy, it was\\nordained that their beards should be different to the\\nbeards of the laity low and rounded, to facili-\\ntate reception of the Body and Blood of Jesus\\nChrist. They were to wear the biretta, except\\nwhen it rained, or the sun was hot, or at night,\\nwhen a hat with a broad brim was allowable. Their\\ngowns were to be of serge or cloth, black, and\\nreaching to the instep. Their underclothing was to\\nbe clean, and their shoes were to be properly tied.\\nExcept for a journey, they were not to go abroad in", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "196\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nshort clothes, and then in gray, violet, or black\\nstuffs. In travelling, they might carry a sword, but\\nno other arms. They were not to use a cloak in the\\nstreets, squares, or markets. It was forbidden\\nthem to play at ball, to gossip, indulge in festivities,\\ntake part in politics, follow the chase, or keep dogs.\\nThey were not to take snuff before saying mass,\\nnor for two hours afterwards, c. On the important\\nsubject of images, it was properly decreed that old\\nand misshapen ones, provocative of laughter rather\\nthan devotion, were to be destroyed.\\nIn this elaborate work, Bishop Murga s energy\\nwas admirable but it was not universally appre-\\nciated, and many rejoiced when, in 1635, he was\\ntranslated to Salamanca.\\nIn dwelling thus largely upon the clerical element\\nof Laguna, one is historically just. It was the defect\\nof the city that it was dominated by priests and\\npriestly influences. It was also its ruin. In 1767\\ncame the expulsion of the Jesuits, and from that day\\nLaguna, with its many churches and monastic\\nestablishments, lost ground. There was brief con-\\ngratulation when, in 1817, the city received royal\\nsanction for a provincial university. But in 1846\\nthis was degraded into a mere provincial institute,\\nand now its spacious buildings, library of rare old\\nquartos, and overgrown gardens, are the lounge and\\nresort of barely half a dozen schoolboys.\\nLaguna is a place to dream in. Its narrow, cobbled\\nstreets, are bordered by high, old mullioned houses,\\nmany with Corinthian portals, and exquisitely chiselled\\nmarble heraldic bearings over the doorways. Empty", "height": "3736", "width": "2416", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3736", "width": "2272", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "A LAGUNA PORTAL.", "height": "3728", "width": "2440", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "THE DESOLATION OF LAGUNA.\\n199\\npalaces meet the eye, with cobwebs thick across their\\nupper windows, fractured escutcheons, and basements\\nnow given up to hucksters who sell pimento and salt\\nfish. Nor can the perfume of orange blossom, which\\nblows from the tangled gardens of these mansions,\\ncharm away the melancholy that clings to them.\\nThe tiresome streets are as empty as the palaces.\\nThe echoing click of his horse s shoes upon the stones\\nis the only sound the traveller hears though he may\\nbe suddenly startled by the clashing of bells from\\none or other of the tall dark church towers peering\\nabove the houses. This riot perchance sends his\\nhorse pelting through the silent thoroughfares, with\\na noise apt to wake the dead that lie dense under the\\npavements of the churches. But however it may\\naffect the dead, it does not disturb the living of\\nLaguna. Two or three postigos move on their\\nhinges, and as many pair of black eyes look forth\\nwith mild inquisitiveness. That is all. Apparently,\\nthis old city is under a witch s spell, or some\\nhorrific ban of the Church, which still holds it inert\\nand speechless. And no sooner is the traveller out of\\nits depressing radius, past the final one of its many\\nwayside crosses, and again between the cheerful\\nhedgerows of the red volcanic fields, than he looks\\nback upon the sombre place, its tall grey houses,\\ntouched with dingy green, and studded with mould,\\nand its dark church turrets, with feelings of wonder\\nalmost akin to awe.", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XII.\\nThe Laguna Churches Social difficulties Scheme for the\\nemancipation of women A working men s club Ecclesi-\\nastical Treasures The library The Professor and his\\npamphlet Superstitions The burning of Judas Iscariot\\nA diocese without a head.\\nHere in Laguna I fell among friends, and for five\\npleasant days lived like a Spanish knight successful\\nin the lists. The large drawing-room of the house\\nwas littered with velvets and silks, lent to the church\\nfor the recent processions, and now to be stored out\\nof sight. The sadness of Passion Week was over,\\nand on this Easter evening, like Indians home with\\nvictims after a raid, we danced amid the silks and\\nvelvets.\\nThe next morning we went from church to church,\\nto see the silver bravery of the altars, and the waxen\\nflowers made by the deft fingers of the nuns. Much\\nof the glory of these churches has evaporated, but\\nthere is still a wealth of woodwork, gilding, dis-\\ncomforting pictures, and grotesque figures of saints,\\nto satisfy the craving after antiquities. In the\\nDominican church, we got as near to the inmates of\\nthe adjoining nunnery as unregenerate man may get.\\nThere are only four and twenty maidens in the estab-", "height": "3744", "width": "2428", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "NUNNERIES.\\n20I\\nlishment now but their isolation is as emphatic as\\nwhen there were three score. A stout iron trellis\\nbarricades the west end of the church. Behind it\\nthe nuns hear the echo of the mass and the sermons.\\nThis trellis is pierced at either end by a little hole.\\nThe one hole serves as station for the Dominican\\nconfessor, within the church, who thus listens to the\\ninvisible nun on the other side, while she disburthens\\nherself of her trivial sins. The other orifice is large\\nenough for the passage of a small cup. Hence, daily,\\nthe nuns receive the Eucharist. Man gets no nearer\\nto them through the tiresome pilgrimage of their\\nlives, than this priest pushing the holy wine from\\nthe church to the convent precincts.\\nThere is something in the Spanish temperament\\nthat, at least as much as her education, impels a girl\\nto sigh for the seclusion of the convent. Were the\\nnumber of nunneries in the island as great now as it\\nwas two hundred years ago, it is probable they would\\nall soon have their full complement of inmates.\\nNot long ago, indeed, a young girl, notwithstanding\\nthe protests of her parents, expressed her determina-\\ntion to enter this Dominican nunnery of Laguna and,\\nafter other vain attempts to gain her purpose, stole to\\nthe church one day, and climbed the twenty feet of\\niron bars which separated the outer from the inner\\nconventual life. Once within the nunnery, she stayed,\\nand there she is to this day.\\nTo us, of England, it seems that the women of\\nSpain are hardly used. They may not grow up, un-\\ntrammelled by irksome etiquette, like our own girls.\\nThey are pruned by that stupid blunt old knife of", "height": "3756", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "202\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npropriety until it is a wonder if, as maidens, they\\nhave any measure of self-confidence left to them, and\\nno wonder at all if, as married women, they resolve\\nto indemnify themselves for the many restraints\\nwhich were formerly, with so much injustice, put\\nupon them. The unmarried woman, so long as she\\nis under the paternal roof, may be said to have no\\ncharacter. She bends, unresistingly, whichever way\\nthe string pulls. Until she is emancipated in spirit,\\ntherefore, it were imprudent to set her face to face\\non even terms with the outside world. And when\\nthe maiden becomes a wife, bred up as she has been\\nbred, she is at the best but an indifferent companion\\nfor her husband. He therefore goes his way largely,\\nand she, forsooth, may look abroad for her entertain-\\nment, if entertainment she needs. At the club he\\nfinds congenial souls and she may without difficulty\\ngather to her other wives, who, like herself, pine for\\nsociety, whether conjugal or otherwise. He loses his\\nmoney at monte, or wagering in the cock-pits and\\nshe, willing to follow in his steps, according to her\\npromise at the altar, finds she may just as easily\\nempty the domestic purse at the feminine card-parties,\\nwhich are the only dissipation at her command. Is\\nit a marvel, then, that married life here is not as a rule\\nvery satisfying Or that maidens still crave, for lack\\nof other chance of escape from the certain woes of\\nthe world, the cold retreat of the convent walls?\\nHere are some suggestions for the amendment of\\nsociety in the Canaries, taken from a recent novelette\\npublished in Tenerife with a purpose. It is a\\ngentleman who dares thus to champion the weaker", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "CANARIAN SOCIAL LIFE.\\n203\\nsex and did not these propositions so forcibly indi-\\ncate a manner of existence that must be grievous\\nindeed to the sufferers, one could be amused at\\nthem\\nFirst. The duenna must be suppressed.\\nSecond. From sunrise to sunset, let it be per-\\nmissible for a lady to go out-of-doors in our towns\\nwhenever she pleases.\\nThird. Outside the town and in the country, let\\nit be permissible for two ladies to go about unattended\\nfrom sunrise to sunset only, of course.\\nFourth. That when a young man pays a visit, it\\nbe not obligatory for the mamma to stay in the\\ndrawing-room the whole time, but that her daughters\\nmay safely be left to entertain the callers.\\nFifth. That in the hours of darkness a lady may\\ngo out in the company of a gentleman who is either\\na friend or a relation.\\nSixth. That unnecessary or absurd regulations\\nbe no longer protected simply and solely because they\\nwere in vogue in times past.\\nOf course it is not difficult to understand why these\\nsevere rules of life have been instituted in a southern\\ncountry like the Canaries. But here the end does\\nnot justify the means employed for its attainment.\\nNeither priests nor people can aver that the morality\\nof a people who have foundling hospitals in every\\ntown has touched the bounds of perfection. Com-\\nmon sense, not coercion this is the cry among the\\nmore chivalrous men of the islands and they stand\\njustified with their motives by their unswerving\\nfidelity to the Church, although it is the Church", "height": "3760", "width": "2232", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "204\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwhich has to be thanked for the initiation and per-\\npetuity of this social slavery.\\nBut if Laguna bears witness to its past in its two\\nor three surviving monastic establishments, it can\\nboast of an effort of concession to the march of\\nmodern enlightenment. The most splendid of its\\nold palaces, that of the Marquis de Salazar, is now\\na working men s club. The builder of this superb\\npiece of decorated work was one of the descendants\\nfrom that stalwart old grandee of Castille, Lope\\nGarcia de Salazar, who, in the time of Alonso the\\nWise (circ. 1284), is said to have had a hundred and\\ntwenty sons, who went to the wars escorted by a troop\\nof forty of his sons, and who died in harness at the age\\nof a hundred, fighting in siege of Algeciras. In con-\\nnection with this house, a tale is told also of a certain\\nnative Tenerifan, one Botazo, who from his name\\nmay have had Guanche blood in him. Botazo,\\nwhile engaged with others in its construction, killed\\na man in a brawl, and fled to Spain for safety. Here\\nhe had the luck to meddle in another brawl, whereby\\nhe saved the life of a courtier in so creditable a manner\\nthat the king summoned him to the palace. What\\ncan I do for you asked his Majesty. Botazo could\\nthink of nothing more congenial to his tastes than a\\nskin of wine. The monarch straightway, without a\\nthought of the consequences, awarded him a skin\\nof wine daily for the term of his life. It is not\\nrecorded how long Botazo lived to enjoy this bene-\\nfaction.\\nThis palace, then, is now a club house, and we\\nwalked through the long high chambers, transformed", "height": "3744", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "THE WORKING MEN S CLUB. 205\\ninto library, theatre, billiard-room, c. saw the\\nLaguna working man playing at chess, practising on\\nthe violin, and reading the daily paper and des-\\ncended the broad cool staircase of lava into the\\ndishevelled patio. My friend, one of the organizers\\nof the innovation, was proud, with reason, of the\\nsuccess of the movement, but I would fain have had\\nhis marquiship back in his palace, silken hangings\\ncovering the bare walls as of yore, and the gentle\\nfaces of young high-born women brightening the\\nrooms, instead of the squeak of violins, the rustle of\\njournals, and the loud political arguments of a knot\\nof contented cobblers.\\nThe churches of Laguna, though rich in tradi-\\ntional interest, are not in themselves remarkable.\\nThe Cathedral is the Church de los Remedios, in\\nspite of the struggles of the Church of the Concep-\\ncion. The white marble pulpit, supported by the\\nfigure of an angel, is beautiful, and, added to the\\ninfluence of the Four Evangelists who are sculptured\\non its panels, ought to help in inspiring those who\\nmount it. Here also lie the bones of Alonso de\\nLugo, the conquistador, whose image is reproduced,\\ncap-a-pie, as a finial to the decorated reredos of\\nmost of the churches of Tenerife. In the Church\\nof the Concepcion one may see the wonderful picture\\nof St. John, which has now exhausted its ability to\\nwork miracles like the miracle of 1648. I was better\\npleased with a dainty little bronze bell, brought\\nforward by the cur a of one of the older churches.\\nAn inscription in old German, and the date, 1551,\\nseemed to link it with the Netherland States, then", "height": "3760", "width": "2244", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "2o6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\non the eve of their disruption from the Spanish\\nEmpire. The cur a himself, however, thought\\nlightly of the relic, and would have sold it for a\\ndollar. To him, a rude and horrifying wooden Christ,\\nlife size, blotched with blood and wounds, and elo-\\nquent of painful dying, was a treasure indeed. This\\ngrotesque horror, which ought to have been con-\\ndemned under Bishop s Murga s rubric, was centuries\\nof age, and had movable limbs. I daresay the\\nsight of it, cunningly manipulated, has scared many\\na conscience, and moved hearts that a royal mandate\\nwould nowadays leave wholly unaffected.\\nThe library of Laguna, incorporated with the\\neducational institute, would gladden a bibliomaniac.\\nIt holds about 20,000 volumes but such volumes\\nHardly a duodecimo among them For the most\\npart they are portly quartos in parchment or vellum,\\nfirst editions, issued from the more famous printing\\noffices of Europe. They fill one large room from\\nfloor to ceiling, and stay on their shelves from the\\nbeginning to the end of the year, pleading in vain\\nfor patrons. The classics, and patristic, and\\nCanarian literature seem to predominate. But\\nlighter reading also has its niche, for during two or\\nthree hours of the day I spent within it, a chubby\\nboy, one of the members of the deposed university,\\nsat opposite to me enthralled in a big Robinson\\nCrusoe, such as a book-loving cleptomaniac would\\nhave thought it his duty to lay hands upon. In\\nCanarian literature that Stygian pool the library\\nis of course particularly strong. A man might read\\nfor a year, and not exhaust this one subject. Perez", "height": "3744", "width": "2340", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "A RECENT DISCOVERY.\\n207\\nde el Christo s reason in 1619 for putting forth his\\nbook served but too well as a precedent, so that later\\nit seemed as if no one had a right to esteem himself\\na patriot unless he could point to a volume or a\\npamphlet about the islands from his own pen. It\\nis my own country, says Perez in his pathetic pre-\\nface, I was born and baptized in it, and that\\nsuffices to make me undertake this work.\\nFrom the public library, we went to the private\\nstudy of a modern savant, the Professor of Natural\\nHistory to the Institute. This gentleman had re-\\ncently made a discovery. Digging in a cave upon a\\nseaside property, he had found a spear-head, in material\\nlike a stalagmite. This, to his joy, upon inspection,\\nproved to bear certain marks, which were at once\\nassumed to be relics of the Guanche language in\\nfact, the only existing relic of the kind. The good\\nProfessor was now, therefore, composing a pamphlet,\\nto be published with the records of a Madrid learned\\nsociety, and containing a full description of the\\ninnocent spear-head, with I know not what bulk of\\nconjectures as an appendix. The age of the stone\\nwas put at B.C. 300: the scratches were to be read\\nfrom right to left. Thus weighted with honourable\\nresponsibilities, it will be criminal ingratitude if the\\nthing do not, in fact, turn out to be, as it is conjec-\\ntured to be, veritable testimony of the Berber or\\nPhoenician origin of the Guanches; and so, with the\\nbest intentions, led by his own amiable enthusiasm,\\nthis worthy man is adding his mite to the hillock of\\nCanarian bibliography.\\nI learn that in the Laguna district, as well as in", "height": "3744", "width": "2224", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "2o8\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nother parts of the island, belief in the mal d ojo\\n(the evil eye) is common. An old woman with an\\nugly expression gets exalted into a witch, no doubt\\nmuch to her delight and profit, as it is then con-\\nsidered advisable to propitiate her. Again, when I\\nmeet a yoke of oxen in a wood, I must instantly\\nlook away, lest by inadvertence evil goes from out\\nof me and enters into the beast, to the detriment of\\nits owner. Laguna is full of broad-hatted priests,\\nwho can have nothing to do for most of their time.\\nIt would be a good work if they were to try to free\\ntheir flock from some of their superstitions. But\\nthey no doubt would find it hard to discriminate\\nequitably between one superstition and another.\\nHad I arrived at Laguna in Holy Week instead\\nof later, I might have had a surfeit of vestments,\\nprocessions, and grievous singing. Religion here then\\nputs forth all the pomp at its disposal. I am dis-\\nappointed of another spectacle. In olden times, and\\neven of late years, it was the custom to concoct a\\nfigure kin to our Guy Faux, dress him in smug\\nrespectable clothes and Hessian boots, embroider\\nhim with crackers and squibs, and, after subjecting\\nhim to much abuse, set him on fire. The dummy\\nwas of course Judas Iscariot, and the excitement of\\nHoly Week never failed to bring the people, by\\nEaster, to such a pitch of hatred for the traitor, that\\nthey vented their malice and revenge against it in a\\nmost realistic manner. Sometimes, indeed, the\\nfigure was gigantic, with a large hollow stomach,\\ninto which certain hapless cats were put. When, on\\nEaster Day, the match was set to Judas, the cats natu-", "height": "3744", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "THE BURNING OF JUDAS. 209\\nrally began to scream, and with the advance of the\\nflames, and the tumult of abuse from the spectators,\\ntheir screams waxed diabolical. The poor creatures\\nwere fortunate if, when the fire burnt an opening in the\\ndummy, they could leap forth ere they were roasted.\\nIn Orotava, the holocaust used to end with a noisy\\nlugging of the remains towards the sea-shore. The\\npeople whipped the body with all their might while\\nit was within reach but eventually what was left\\nof it was tied to a boat, taken into deep water, and\\nthere finally sunk out of sight.\\nThis year, alas there is no such spectacle.\\nFunds are wanting, it is said. Perhaps, however, it\\nmay be due to the fact that the islands are tempora-\\nrily without a religious head, and therefore supposi-\\ntiously in a state of spiritual anarchy. The bishop\\ndied recently, and though a successor has been\\nappointed, this gentleman declines the honour. I\\nask if the nominee holds the bishopric in contempt\\nand learn that it is quite otherwise. It is etiquette\\nto demur to promotion in the Church. Only when\\nthe higher authorities have convinced the bishop-\\ndesignate that he is a better man than he thinks\\nhe is, and have argued him out of the last shreds of\\nhis humility only then will he consent to take the\\ndignity. In the meantime, however, he is as surely\\nthe bishop as if he had already been consecrated.\\n15", "height": "3740", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIII.\\nThe Anaga Hills The woods of Mercedes A dainty greens-\\nward The Anaga edges and abysses The Cruz del\\nCarmen The Cruz de Afur Taganana woods and\\nvillage The Cura A rustic beauty A Guanche idyl\\nEl Roque de las Animas The monk and the nuns\\nBencomo and Zebensin\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Tenerifan economics Return up\\nthe Vuelta 53\\nEarly one hot April day, my good friend of Laguna\\nand I started for the romantic village of Taganana.\\nThis village nestles in a mountain hollow, facing the\\nAtlantic to the north, and is only accessible by a\\ntrack which winds along the summits of the central\\npeaks of the Anaga Mountains. These mountains\\nrise to the height of 3,000 feet, and are as fantastic\\nas a crazy imagination can make them. Their steep\\nsides and ravines are clothed with brushwood, ferns,\\nand flowers, and forests of laurel and heaths but\\nthe peaks themselves are stern trachytic humps and\\npinnacles, grey and red, round which the cloud\\nmasses of one aerial current love to clash and\\nstruggle with those of another and contrary current.\\nOur path was often therefore sublime, as well as\\ndizzy and beautiful.\\nMy friend gave me his own horse, a white pink-", "height": "3720", "width": "2356", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "THE LAGUNA LANES.\\n2it\\nnosed Andalusian, more than twenty years old, with\\nan original sort of movement, but much vigour. The\\nanimal was sick in the lungs, I think, for it wheezed\\nlike an asthmatical subject, and sweated so that it\\nsoon soaked a coat I had laid athwart it. But the\\npoor beast worked well. We were also accompanied\\nby a man for each of our horses, and to carry the\\ndinner which we proposed to eat sooner or later in\\nTaganana.\\nThough we were in the saddle by eight o clock,\\nthe heat was oppressive, even in Laguna. A south\\nwind was blowing, which in summer brings Santa\\nCruz to a purgatorial condition, and is at all times\\nvery warm. But it served our purpose, as in all\\nother winds the Anaga hills begin to cloud over soon\\nafter dawn, whereas a south wind often leaves them\\nwholly free for the day.\\nNothing could be more lovely than the country\\nthrough which we rode from the grassy streets\\nof the old city in the fresh morning air. The\\norchards were in heavy blossom, and as full of song\\nas of perfume. Geraniums, aloes, wild roses, and\\nthe homely bramble, made a thick hedge by the track\\nside. And we tripped between the big stones of the\\npath, summoned every minute to return the hearty\\ngreeting of a peasant with an axe on his shoulder,\\na troop of bare-legged lasses bound for the city,\\nsinging at full pitch while they walked, or older\\nwomen taking their eggs to the Easter market.\\nThus we rode into the woods of Mercedes, which\\nform a cul de sac to the plateau of Laguna in the\\nnorth-east and from the burning sun we stepped", "height": "3736", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "212\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ninto a close cool shade as absolute as that of a\\npyramid of Cheops. From under our green canopy,\\nwe looked back at the glittering city, its fringe of\\nscarlet hills, and the prodigious Pico de Teide, which\\nswelled behind it towards a blue sky without a cloud.\\nThese woods of Mercedes are in every way charm-\\ning. Miniature cascades trickle down miniature\\ndefiles, and no drop of their precious liquid is wasted.\\nIn the valley below, the sum of the waters is collected\\nin a conduit, and carried to Laguna and Santa Cruz.\\nHere, the ilex, laurels, and other trees show their\\ngratitude for the moisture by sheathing themselves\\nin a verdure of moss and ferns that even Devonshire\\nmight be proud of. And the narrow red ruts in the\\nsoil, along which we stumbled uneasily, showed\\nthat in this part of Tenerife rain is an institution,\\nand at times abundant enough to be embarrassing.\\nFrom these cool natural grots and mossy glens, we\\nascended to the summit of the woods, and suddenly\\nbroke upon a stretch of turf, whence the hills fell\\nboldly towards Santa Cruz and the south. There lay\\nthe city, like an irregular patch of snow by the blue\\nsea. Over the water, too, the island of Grand Canary\\nwas very clear. But though beauty lay all around\\nus, it was fairest under our very feet. The green\\nturf was the brighter for countless bugloss and white\\niris.\\nLeaving this heavenly spot, we made for the\\nmountains and the mountain air. What indescrib-\\nable vistas to the right and left of us, as we rode on\\nthe watershed of the acclivities In this part of\\nTenerife, the island forms a peninsula about ten miles", "height": "3740", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "PEAKS AND PRECIPICES.\\n213\\nlong by five or six in width. Imagine, then, with how\\ndelicate and reserved a hand Nature has had to work\\nto bring within this small compass mountains and\\nvalleys as high and as deep, and, I might almost say,\\nas numerous as those comprised in the two or three\\nhundred square miles of area of our own precious\\nLake District Giddy spurs sprang from our narrow\\npath, and plunged down by a series of barbed pinna-\\ncles, until their course was hid by their perpendicu-\\nlarity, or veiled by the light haze which lay at the\\nbottom of the abysses. Here were dozens of exten-\\nsions of the Crib Goch which has given old Snowdon\\nits one element of awe. And contorted into the\\nweirdest shapes, as if a sudden chill had come upon\\nthem in the midst of agonized writhings, and thus\\nperpetuated their woes\\nWith an instinct of worship common to Orientals\\nand Southerners, the Spaniards of Tenerife have built\\na chapel on the crest of this path to Taganana. The\\ncross which precedes it, and still stands amid the\\nherbs and wild flowers of the restricted plateau, is\\ncalled La Cruz del Carmen and here the peasants\\nkeep periodic festivals, dancing and singing among\\nthe clouds, and on the edges of the precipices. There\\nis but little level space around the chapel. This little,\\nhowever, is bisected by two paths, each equally\\ntrodden. Men follow the path to the left women\\nthat to the right. This is an explicit survival of\\nGuanche times, when it was a law that men and\\nwomen when they met should go on their way by\\ndifferent roads, without interchange of speech in-\\nfraction of which law was punishable with death.", "height": "3744", "width": "2204", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "214\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nA little further along the ridge, and we came to\\nanother cross, the Cruz de Afur, set against a\\ngrey precipitous wall of lichened rock, tufted with\\nheath. A third cross, the Cruz de Taganana,\\nmarked the turning point on the very steep mountain\\nwhich, concavely, guards the village to the south,\\neast, and west.\\nBetween Mercedes and Taganana we passed only\\ntwo or three habitations on these breezy heights,\\nwooden chalets perched on precarious green slopes,\\nthat seemed apt to slide down to the depths with but\\nslight stimulus from the winds and the rains. The\\ntinkling of goat bells, and the horned heads of the\\ngoats among the bushes, told us that these were the\\nmountain dairy farms of Tenerife. We saw also, in\\na dark glen, that seemed as unattainable by the mere\\naid of legs as the bottom of a coal mine, the small\\nvillage of Tavorna, with a sugar-loaf hill brooding\\nnarrowly over its white houses.\\nThe wood of Taganana, through which we de-\\nscended with difficulty to the village, takes first rank\\nwith the very few sylvan spots in this hot Atlantic\\nisland. It is as dense as a tropical forest. Its laurels\\ngrow to timber, and, with the heaths, all moss-clad\\nand fern-becovered as to their trunks, are fifty and\\nsixty feet high. Springs burst from the summit of\\nthis mountain about 3,000 feet above the sea, and\\nperenially tumble their waters, by cascades and pel-\\nlucid pools, into the village below. Northern vegeta-\\ntion follows the descent of the rivulets, the ferns and\\ngrasses attaining a gigantic size and when, after two\\nhours work, we get clear of the decaying trunks and", "height": "3740", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "IN TAG A NANA.\\n215\\nstones, and are on the hem of the village, we find\\nbananas and palm trees as eager to profit by the\\nwater as, 2,500 feet higher, were the brackens and\\nivies of England and Scandinavia.\\nThe path down to Taganana is a severe task for a\\nhorse. La Vuelta de Taganana (the turning or zig-\\nzag of Taganana), as it is called, is a spiral with sixty-\\nfour twists in it, some of which are at so small an\\nangle that a horse slides down them, whether he\\nlikes it or not.\\nOnce again we rode at length from the shade of\\nthe forest into the full blaze of a southern sun. The\\nheat in the red-roofed little village was indeed quite\\nsuffocating. The very sea in front of us shone with\\na quiet but intense glare that made one gasp to look\\nat it. And so by the time we had stumbled into the\\nPlaza, and to the door of the white church, we felt\\ncompletely unstrung, and demoralized in body. We\\nsat on a low wall sheltered by some pepper trees,\\ngave up the horses, and left to the men the work of\\nfinding a hospitable citizen who would lend us a\\ncellar, as the most desirable of dining-rooms on such a\\nday.\\nThen came the priest of the village, a white-haired\\nold man, and a friend of my friend s. He had lived\\nin this quiet little nook for thirty or forty years, hardly\\never leaving it for a day or two in the large towns so\\nnear and yet so hard to reach. Inn there was none\\nin the place but his own house, a square ochre\\nbuilding, with a clump of dragon trees and palms at\\nits eastern corner, was at our disposal. It was on\\na ledge of rock two hundred feet above us a climb", "height": "3760", "width": "2204", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "2l6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nout of the question on such a day And so we ate\\nour eggs and bread, and drunk our wine where we\\nwere, under the curious gaze of the women of the\\nhouse.\\nTaganana claims to rear the finest women in\\nTenerife. Even the priest acquiesced when my friend\\nquoted a saying about the virtue and the beauty of\\nthe ladies of his flock. But, he added, they\\nare neither so good nor so beautiful as they ought to\\nbe. Like others, they are getting to have their own\\nway too much, and it does not become them. How-\\never, we had the fortune to see one swarthy, blue-\\neyed woman with long black hair, who might well\\nhave moved a misanthrope. She had the bold, almost\\nimpudent, expression of a gipsy, and suckled a child\\nin public. Her mother was reputed to have been\\neven handsomer than herself and for many years an\\nobject of interest to visitors as the beauty of Taga-\\nnana. These two women may be representatives of\\nthe Northmen, who, according to a legend, set foot\\nin the place before the Spaniards came. They may,\\non the other hand, be descendants of royal Guanches;\\nfor it was in these overhanging woods, to the music\\nof doves and falling water, that the Princess Guaci-\\nmara, daughter of the king of Anaga, and the love-\\nstricken Ruyman, carried on their sweet unconscious\\ncourtships, disguised from each other, what time\\ntheir sires and friends were straining nerve and sinew\\nagainst the Spanish invaders. Viana tells the story\\nin his epic.\\nBut the mildest sketch of Taganana would be\\nimperfect if no mention were made of the extra^", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "THE CLIFFS OF TAGANANA. 217\\nordinary rocks on the east of the village, and the\\nno less eccentric mountain pinnacles to the west.\\nThe former are two in number, the one conical, and\\nthe other abrupt, precipitous, and unscalable. The\\nbolder of the two is indeed a fair diminutive of the\\nMatterhorn, though its red scar knows nothing of\\nsnow. Where it falls into the sea it may be fifteen\\nhundred feet perpendicular, and it offers a tempt-\\ning climb of many hundred feet, nearly as steep as\\na house, from the level of the village. The priest\\ncalled it, El Roque de las Animas (the Rock of\\nPurgatory) and the name is a good one. The two\\nmountains are commonly called the Men.\\nAs for the serrated pinnacles in the west, wrought by\\nrude Titanic gashes in the ridge of a mountain, the\\ninsulated rocks shapen fantastically by wind and\\nweather, they are known as the Monks and the\\nNuns. The good priest had no difficulty in dis-\\ntinguishing the ladies from the gentlemen but the\\nstory itself was too scandalous to be communicated.\\nSeen from the north-western extremity of the\\nTaganana hollow, they are very striking, with bushes\\nof golden gorse where they break from the mountain\\nmass.\\nIn spite of the heat, we suffered the cur a to lead\\nus to the seaward boundary of his parish. Else,\\nhe said, we should miss a grand scene of shore\\ncliffs and surf and he was right. From the edge\\nof the valley of Taganana, where the land slopes\\nsteeply into the sea, we looked east at the pointed\\nislets of Anaga, basaltic rocks not unlike our home\\nNeedles and west to the Punta del Hidalgo,", "height": "3760", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "218\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nanother astounding agglomeration of mountain-tops,\\nlike the fretwork of a huge saw running out into\\nthe sea.\\nWhere we stood among the aloes and dusty fig-\\ntrees on the boundary of the village, we were also,\\nunconsciously, on the limits of the old principalities\\nof Anaga and Hidalgo. For into such petty realms\\nwas Tenerife subdivided after Tinerfe s decease. Of\\nthe master of this Cape of Hidalgo, a story survives\\nwhich is but another tribute to the sterling worth\\nof Bencomo, the King of Taoro. Zebensin, the\\nAchimencey of the district, was son of a bastard\\nof Tinerfe, and as such was of less esteem than the\\nlegitimate princes of the nine greater divisions of the\\nisland. The appellation Achimencey (poor knight\\nHidalgo or ruler) was given to him in contrast\\nwith that of Mencey, borne by the other sons.\\nAnd he seems to have exemplified the hard con-\\ndemnation whereby the sins of the fathers (if among\\nthe Guanches bastardy could have been regarded\\nas a sin in the sire) are visited upon the children.\\nHis principality was only a seabound promontory,\\nand so he stole what he needed from his neighbours.\\nThe aggrieved shepherds bore their losses for a\\ntime, but eventually complained to Bencomo. This\\nsturdy king at once set forth from his palace,\\nalone, and incognito. When he reached the cave of\\nZebensin, he found that princeling about to dine\\non a kid which he had cooked with his own hands.\\nWithout preface, and using the roast meat as a\\ntext for his upbraidings, Bencomo dilated to his\\nhalf-cousin on the iniquity of his conduct, in living", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "THE SCAPEGRACE PRINCE.\\n219\\nupon the hard-acquired possessions of others. The\\nHidalgo (Achimencey) stammered excuses, and, on\\nthe pretext of seeking food fit to be set before the\\nKing of Taoro, tried to leave the cave. But Ben-\\ncomo, taking him by the arm, detained him, and,\\nwith angry eyes, bade him take no trouble about\\npreparing meat and drink for him. Be warned,\\nhe said, and know that a prince must not live upon\\nthe blood of his unfortunate vassals, whom he ought\\nalways to regard with the loving care of a father.\\nGive me gofio and water, and that will be for me a\\nbanquet delicious beyond anything.\\nBencomo, with his own fingers, mixed the flour and\\nwater, and then ate the dough, unseasoned even with\\nsalt. Ah, cousin Zebensin, he continued, if only\\nyou knew how savoursome this is, when compounded\\nby clean hands, and eaten at the expense of no\\ntears from the poor Tender kids and fat lambkins,\\ncooked in milk, but cruelly reft from their dams, and\\nfrom the bosoms of the helpless shepherds, will, so\\nfar from making you rich, only make you detestable\\nand deserving of all my wrath.\\nOne is glad to know that the scapegrace prince\\ntook this lesson to heart. He professed repentance\\nand determination to amend his life and, confiding\\nin him, Bencomo recommended the convert to his\\ncousin the Prince of Tegueste, who gave him the\\ncontrol of a hundred shepherds.\\nThe poor knight of the Punta no doubt rejoiced\\nin his reclamation to the paths of virtue. For\\nTegueste is now, as it was then, one of the most\\nsmiling provinces in Tenerife. A carriage road runs", "height": "3744", "width": "2204", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "220\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ndown to it, between the mountains, bordered by\\nblue gum trees, cork trees, and geraniums, and its\\nrich lands are devoted to vines and country estates\\nfor the prosperous merchants and officials of\\nLaguna and Santa Cruz. The Punta, on the other\\nhand, is a hard sterile rock, projecting into the\\nsea.\\nTaganana, from its situation at the base of a\\ngreat amphitheatrical mountain, boasts of good soil,\\nand abundant harvests of everything except barley,\\nwhich seems choked by the heat. But elsewhere\\nin the neighbourhood, and indeed all over the\\nisland, the inevitable results of reckless denuda-\\ntion are being felt. No sooner were the Spaniards\\nin Tenerife than they began to cut down and even\\nto fire the forests, without a thought of posterity.\\nTwo centuries of this work changed the character\\nof the island largely water grew scarcer every year\\nand then the Government interfered. But even now\\nthe charcoal burners give the high pines little rest\\nand though the Government nominally preserves the\\nforests, it seems to be indifferent to the wisdom of\\nreplantation. Thus, when phenomenal rains come,\\nthe more precarious vineyards and grainfields,\\ndeprived of the shelter they got from the patches\\nof woodland behind or above them, yield before\\nthe downrush of the quick waters, and, like the\\nswine of Gadarene, slide headlong into the sea or\\nthe subjacent valleys. Every score of years many\\nscore of careful acres disappear wholly from the\\nbare rocks upon which they were either laboriously\\nraised, or had been brought into cultivation, when", "height": "3736", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "PRIMITIVE HUSBANDRY.\\n221\\nlaurels, chestnuts, or pines, offered them some pro-\\ntection and encouragement.\\nUnder these circumstances, and considering the\\nfabulous fertility of the best kind of it, land in\\nTenerife is very costly. Everything, however,\\ndepends on its vicinity to water, without which\\nit were but dust and ashes, save in certain parts\\nof the Laguna district, and in the cloud zones.\\nIn the Vale of Orotava, \u00c2\u00a3300 an acre is paid but,\\nas a set off, it must be remembered that the returns\\nare there almost mathematically sure. The fields\\nare irrigated by strong canals of cement, and by due\\npayment of the water rate for so many hours flow\\nper week, this, the only incentive to full crops that\\nis needed, is assured. In the Laguna district, how-\\never, where irrigation is not thought to be essential,\\nbecause of the frequent rains, occasional years of\\nruin diversify the life of the agriculturist, as with\\nus in England.\\nFarming implements are primitive in Tenerife.\\nAn improved exhibition plough serves as a spectacle\\nof wonder but no one thinks of substituting such\\nan invention for the simple cross-sticks, like the\\nold Highland caschroms or cascheedas. These have\\nserved generations, and are likely to serve as many\\nmore generations. The other day someone intro-\\nduced washballs among the peasantry in a certain\\npart of Tenerife. They were tried for a brief time,\\nthen universally discarded. Clear spring water, a\\ncouple of pebbles, and some native soap, were much\\npreferred.\\nThe principles of economics seem to be but feebly", "height": "3744", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "222\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nunderstood here. A man wishing to buy an estate\\nor a house would be asked to pay a preposterous\\nsum. He could get the same property, however,\\nby advancing upon it in mortgage half, or even a\\nquarter, of its market worth. A man does not borrow\\nmoney upon his land until he has brought his mind\\nto the wrench of parting with it. When he borrows,\\ntherefore, he assumes that he is selling. He does\\nnot think of repaying the loan or mortgage, but\\nchuckles if he can coax the mortgagee, in a friendly\\nway, to advance him a little more money upon the\\ntitle deeds. Thus the chain tightens, and in time\\nhe quite acquiesces in the legal conveyance to which\\nhe was from the first thoroughly resigned. In this\\nway, property worth twenty thousand dollars passes\\ninto other hands for five thousand dollars.\\nBut I am wandering indeed from sunny Taganana.\\nWhen the cum had shown us his landscapes and\\nthe more beautiful of his parishioners, and the little\\nchurch, odorous with rose-leaves, and curious for\\nan emblematic picture where Death is portrayed\\nhewing his victims limb from limb with a madman s\\nferocity then, he said, we had exhausted Taganana.\\nBesides, we had the terrible ascent of the Vuelta\\nbefore us. In truth, this was a most formidable\\nbusiness. One of our men had drunk all the wine\\nwe had left, which was much and he was therefore\\nincapable. My horse sweated and stumbled and\\ngasped till the still woods echoed with its groans and\\nefforts. Of course I did not ride the poor animal.\\nBut I could not prevent the drunken man hanging\\non to her long white tail, though at the peril of his", "height": "3740", "width": "2328", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "A STEEP ASCENT.\\n223\\nlife. The other day, in the course of this climb, a\\nhorse had fallen over into the stream, where it purled\\neighty to a hundred feet below but neither that\\nnor any humanitarian notions would prevent a tipsy\\nSpaniard from working his beast to the uttermost.\\nAfter an absence of ten or eleven hours, we\\nreached Laguna in the short gloaming, when the\\nPeak in the distance was capping itself for the night.", "height": "3756", "width": "2204", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIV.\\nTraditions about the Peak First Account of an Ascent\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nPreparations for the Climb Our Start Glorious Day\\nIn the Clouds Above the Clouds El Pico de Teide\\nStages of the Ascent The Retama Plain Obsolete Hard-\\nships At the Foot of the Pyramid The Estancia Bed-\\nmaking and Eating Sunset A Restless Night On by\\nMoonlight An Unexpected Meeting The Rambleta\u00e2\u0080\u0094\\nSunrise On the Summit In the Crater Hot and Cold\\nSulphur Men The Ice Cave The Descent.\\nSince experience proves that a man cannot breathe\\non the top of the Peak of Tenerife From this\\nunsound predicate, Jacob la Pereyre, an ancient\\nauthor, writing about the Universal Deluge, makes\\nthe terrible deduction that, if the Flood had risen a\\nfew yards higher, no one would have been able to\\nbreathe in the Ark.\\nBefore mountain climbing came into fashion, others\\nbesides this old writer had exaggerated ideas of the\\nPeak. Gregorio Leti, a biographer of Philip II.,\\nsays of it, There is in Tenerife a mountain so im-\\nmeasurably high, that it is impossible to climb it\\nwithout great difficulty, and in less than three days.\\nHence it is believed to be the highest in the world.\\nNevertheless, it is said that from its base to its very\\nsummit are to be found the dwelling-places of a", "height": "3732", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "EARLY ASCENTS OF THE PEAK.\\nnumber of people, absolutely wild and cruel, and\\nthat they are more like ferocious beasts than reason-\\nable beings. Even so late as the beginning of this\\ncentury, certain geographers held to the opinion that\\nthe Peak was nowhere surpassed in height. But the\\nipse dixit of Leti s about natives residing on its sum-\\nmit is very odd, when we remember that for cen-\\nturies this has been a crater of hot sulphur. A man\\nmight as reasonably be said to reside in a half-\\nquiescent lime-kiln.\\nNeither the Guanches nor the early Spaniards felt\\nmuch affection for the Peak itself. Its very name\\nwas hurtful to polite ears Echeyde (Hell) from\\nwhich, of course, the more modern Teide is a simple\\ntransition. So long ago as 1402, in a navigation\\ntreaty between England and France, reference is\\nmade to the piracies of a certain Norman, Bethen-\\ncourt, the original conqueror of Lanzarote and\\nFuerteventura, and to Tenerife as the He d Enfer!\\nAnd certainly, if, in the middle ages, the cone rising\\nfrom the sea more than 12,000 feet was then (as it is\\nsaid to have been) in a state of constant eruption,\\nthe sight of it, visible, according to Humboldt, for a\\ncircuit of 260 leagues, must have been very impres-\\nsive to generations of men prone to see diabolical\\nagency in all uncomfortable phenomena of nature.\\nHence, too, the Spanish peasantry called it the\\ndevil s cauldron, in which all the food of hell is\\ncooked.\\nPerhaps the first detailed account of an ascent of\\nthe Peak is that by Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, in\\nthe infantine days of the Royal Society. It narrates\\n16", "height": "3744", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "226\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe trials of certain English merchants in 1650.\\nThese gentlemen were probably the local agents for the\\nsale in England of the wine of the Canaries, which\\nwas then in full fame. But their loyalty was soon\\nto be shrewishly requited by the marriage of Charles\\nII. with a Portuguese princess, and the consequent\\npatronage of Portuguese, and notably Madeira\\nwines, to the detriment of the Canarian trade. They\\ngot to the top, having felt many portentous trem-\\nblings of the earth on the way. But, when they\\ncame to open the luncheon-basket, they found their\\nwine so congealed that it had to be thawed, the\\nbrandy debilitated, and the wind so strong that they\\ncould scarcely drink the health of the King of\\nEngland, or fire a volley in honour of His Majesty.\\nThese good royalists were doubtless made much of\\nwhen they safely returned to the lowlands and their\\nperformance has gained them immortal fame in the\\nTransactions of the Royal Society.\\nBut let the truth be told. Among all the moun-\\ntains of the globe, there can be few of the same\\nheight as the Peak to compare with it for the ease\\nwith which it may be ascended. Though its final\\n3,500 feet are steep, with an inclination of from\\n35 to 42\u00c2\u00b0, the average slope is not more than 12*30\u00c2\u00b0.\\nFrom first to last, life is never endangered. It is not\\neven necessary to pass a night on it. By leaving\\nOrotava in the evening, and travelling through the\\ndarkness by the aid of the moon or torches, it is\\npossible to be on Teide before sunrise. Nor is the\\nnight that is conventionally spent between the big\\nboulders, known as the English halting-place", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "OUR BOLD COUNTRYWOMEN. 227\\n(Estancia de los Ingleses), by any means so arduous\\nan experience as one expects to find it. A camp in\\nthe open air at an elevation of 10,000 feet ought to\\nbe a little trying and that is all that it is. But\\nwhen the deed is done, and duly subjected to quiet\\nanalysis in retrospect, one is forced to admit that the\\ntoil is trivial, and amply compensated by the scenic\\nand other rewards attendant upon it.\\nWe made our ascent on May 11 and 12. By\\nthe Spaniards, it was thought to be rather soon in\\nthe year to their warm imaginations the least snow\\nseems a very formidable obstacle to mountain climb-\\ning. What, then, were they likely to think of the\\ntwo Englishmen who, so early as March 12, to-\\ngether with two or three ladies, had dared to make\\nthe trip Indeed, events seemed to prove that these\\nbrave compatriots of ours were somewhat hare-\\nbrained. For, though they safely reached the top,\\nover the sheets of ice which masked the Piton, as\\nthe cone is called, it was at no little risk, seeing that\\nthey were unprovided with ice-axes. Moreover, they\\nfell out with their guides, who stayed below, leaving\\nthem to their own bold wills. And as for the ladies,\\nthey gave it up after a while, reserving what little\\nstrength and breath remained to them for the con-\\ngratulation of their lords when these descended with\\nthe glow of victory upon them. But for many weeks\\nafter this exploit the Spaniards of Tenerife used the\\nword loco (fool, or madman, according to your humour)\\nand Englishman almost as if they were synony-\\nmous. Nor dare I repeat for English readers what\\na stalwart old hidalgo said to me in free comment", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "228\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nupon the part played by our countrywomen in the\\nexcursion.\\nWe started from Puerto at seven o clock in the\\nmorning, under the care of Diego Zamorra, a guide.\\nZamorra is not the best guide of the place, but his\\nbetters happened, on this occasion, to be out of the\\nway. We were a party of three caballeros, and, to\\nlook after our horses, and attend the two mules that\\naccompanied us, laden with overcoats and wraps to\\nkeep us warm in the night, Diego took with him a\\nbrace of stout boys so that in all we mustered six\\nhuman beings and five brute beasts. As provisions,\\nwe carried good store of roast chickens, soup, eggs,\\nbread, butter, and cheese, and some bottles of wine,\\nall provided by our hotel a sack of potatoes and\\ngofio for the boys supper and, lastly, a barrel of\\nwater. The water was a very important article of\\nfreight, for we had to traverse a parching desert of\\npumice sand, quite innocent of springs, and for more\\nthan twenty-four hours, to be wholly dependent for\\nour supply upon what we carried.\\nOur cavalcade made a stir as we rode through the\\nstreets of the red-roofed little town. Diego and the\\nboys knew everyone we met from the big, brown,\\nbare-chested driver of the span of oxen going out\\ninto the fields, to the withered little old crone hurry-\\ning her one goat from door to door, with a tin cup in\\nher hand to measure the milk she sold as she went\\nalong. It is not every day that Teide is assailed,\\nand therefore people of all ages, and many different\\nprofessions, came to their doors when they heard our\\nmen s proud babble to their friends about the English-\\nmen and El Pico.", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "A\\nGOATHERD OF TEXERIFE.", "height": "3732", "width": "2268", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "OUR START.\\n231\\nNor was I less elated than the men. It was a\\nglorious day. The sea below us did but ripple under\\nthe blue sky, save where it throbbed into white foam\\non the rough black lava shore. The country was in\\nsummer beauty. The geraniums were still in flower,\\nas pertinaciously as if they bloomed but for one\\nmonth instead of twelve months in the year.\\nOleanders sweetened the air. The vines had leafed\\nand begun to blossom. The fig-trees and mulberries\\nwere darkening with ripe fruit. Myriads of poppies,\\nred and yellow, twinkled in the grain fields, though\\nmany a bronze patch showed where barley had\\nalready been cut and carried. Stately palms, broad,\\nragged bananas, glossy eucalypti, and great aloes\\nwere on all sides of us, cheek by jowl with our own\\nhumble daisies. The villas of this happy country\\nwere as gay as its vegetation. They stood forth\\nfrom a bower of foliage red, blue, buff, green, yellow,\\nwhite, or brown, sometimes stencilled in pretty\\npatterns they and their surroundings alike reflected\\nin the still pools of the water tanks, which are a\\nnecessary appurtenance of every garden. Of the\\nVale of Taoro or Orotava as a whole, I have already\\nsaid something. But on this particular day, to its\\nother constituent parts must be added a straight bank\\nof motionless black cloud, which hangs down the\\nmountain-side to within about 3,000 feet of the sea.\\nWe cannot see through or above the cloud. But our\\nclimb through and above the cloud is to be one of\\nthe stages of our work towards the Peak. The Peak\\nitself is invisible the bank of cloud over the valley\\nhad not lifted for nearly a fortnight. Out at sea,", "height": "3756", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "232\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nfifty miles away, it could be seen but to us, close at\\nhand, it was a mere matter of faith.\\nWe climb through the valley, past the two remark-\\nable volcanic humps which are so bold a feature of it\\nto the village of Palo Blanco, almost on the hem of\\nthe [overhanging vapour. Tropical vegetation is\\nnow below us we are among budding chestnut\\ntrees, potato fields two months later than those on\\nthe sea level, meagre barley, and pear and cherry\\ntrees instead of figs, bananas, and oranges. Close\\nat hand, to the right, is the precipitous wall of\\nTigayga (so named after a brave Guanche warrior),\\nabout 7jOOO feet above the sea. It is in the pro-\\nfoundest shadow, thanks to the clouds. Not even\\nthe profuse fresh verdure of its steep ravines can do\\nmuch to modify the gloom of its great precipices.\\nAnd here we leave behind us the two famous villages\\nof the Upper and Lower Realejo, so closely asso-\\nciated with the history of the conquest.\\nAs Palo Blanco offers us our last chance of fresh\\nwater, we halt by its fountain. One by one, the\\nanimals are allowed to take a long and a strong pull.\\nPoor beasts they seem to understand that they\\nhave an unpleasant prospect before them. They\\ndrink and drink, until Diego wrenches them violently\\nfrom the trough and then they stand aside, and\\nwatch the next animal having its turn, with eager\\neyes and nervous ears, ready to make a rush the\\nmoment the man s attention is relaxed.\\nHitherto, the track has been a thoroughfare of\\nsome importance. We have had rocks and stones to\\nclamber over which we would have avoided if we", "height": "3740", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2236", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "A BEGGAR OF TENERIFE.", "height": "3756", "width": "2312", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "GEXIAL MENDICANTS.\\n235\\ncould but we have never been out of touch with\\nhuman beings. Country people descending to sell\\ntheir market stuffs were constantly, to their surprise,\\ncoming upon us. In the fields, too, were men and\\nboys, weeding or hoeing their potatoes. And children\\nof all ages, bright-eyed and alert, seemed ever on the\\nlook-out for such objects of interest as strangers.\\nMariquita screams a beldame from her hovel\\nporch to a well-grown lass at work in the fields a few\\nhundred yards ahead of us, make haste, and be\\nready to ask the gentlemen for a quartite when they\\npass you. A quartite is rather less than a half-\\npenny, but it is enough to stir the desire of Mariquita\\nand so, when we reach the boundary of her field,\\nthere she stands, with her large dark eyes full of ap-\\npeal, and her brown little palms outstretched as she\\nbeseeches for a quartite, senor, quartite I\\nThis unabashed begging is quite a strong feature\\nin Tenerife, since the English have acquired the habit\\nof visiting the island. The children beg, whether\\nthey want anything or not. Their parents turn them\\nall loose upon a stranger whenever the chance offers.\\nThey plead laughingly, but with a perseverance\\nthat does not incite their victims to laugh. How-\\never, this time we sent Mariquita back to her\\npotatoes with a smile of real contentment on her\\nface and, ere we were in the clouds, we could hear\\nher singing away like the larks above her, while\\nshe broke the red earth with her old-fashioned hoe.\\nFor the next half-hour or more, we ascend through\\na sparse wood of heaths, with the fog grey and per-\\nsistent all around us. We naturally button our", "height": "3760", "width": "2232", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "236\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncoats as we enter this zone of vapour. But it is\\nonly for a minute or two as we soon realise that the\\ncloud is a dry cloud, and that we are rising through\\nit to approach a region of heat instead of cold.\\nWe have gone but a little way, in fact, ere it is\\napparent that the sun is shining brilliantly above\\nus. And so, at an altitude of 4,030 feet, we\\nemerge from the shadows, and look around to dis-\\ncover that we are in the clear upper air, with a sky\\nof the purest blue over our heads, and a powerful\\nsun in the heavens. The summits of the lower\\nslopes of the Peak, and the long back of Tigayga,\\nseem close to us in this refined atmosphere. They\\nare suffused with a lovely coral-pink and blue haze,\\nthrough which the scant bushes of retama, which\\nalone diversify them, gleam like spots of silver.\\nTowards the head of the Guimar valley, on the\\nsouth side of the island, the rocks are a dazzling\\ncrimson, due to the ferruginous nature of their\\nvolcanic earth. But the oddest impression of all is\\nthat of the very clouds just left beneath us. They\\nstretch from the one great mountain flank of the\\nvalley to the other the dark masses looming\\nfrom them like islets in a sea. The vapour hangs\\nimmobile in mid-air, with a broad, undulated sur-\\nface, in the most singular of contrasts with the\\ndistant fringe of blue sea, which forms our horizon,\\nI know not how many miles away. The cloud\\nwas tenuous enough when we were enfolded in it\\nbut, viewing it at our feet, and from the untroubled\\nupper air, we pity our friends in Orotava, that\\nthey are cloaked from the sun by a nebulous stratum", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3724", "width": "2380", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "THE RETAMA.\\n239\\nof such apparent weight, opacity, and obstinate de-\\ntermination. It is a distinct migration from northern\\nto southern climes. Swallows are soaring about our\\nheads, happy in the sunlight, and quite careless of\\nthe serious fact that they are nearly a vertical mile\\nabove the sea.\\nBut with this change in our surroundings begins\\nthe real heat and toil of the day. Of course, there\\nis no more shade to be expected. The only vegeta-\\ntion hence to the other side of the Peak, ten\\nmiles away, is the retama, a shrub in close affinity\\nwith the\\nOdorata ginestra,\\nContenta dei deserti\\nand though on the pumice plains the retama broadens\\nso that its branches attain a total girth of forty or\\nfifty feet, it is never tall enough to cast a shadow of\\nservice to man. The track winds upwards by tiny\\ndefiles in the grey rock debris, until it brings us to a\\nland of absolute desolation. From slopes of yellow\\npumice dust, hard to climb, and suffocating alike to\\nman and beast, we clamber towards masses of reddish\\nlava, sharp and irregular, and to the eye as fresh and\\ncapable of annoyance as if it had flown forth from\\nthe side of the Peak only the other year. The\\nbrilliant lichens which fasten upon the lower lava,\\nand hasten its decomposition, are lacking here.\\nEverything, in short, is lacking, save the burning\\nsun above us, which radiates from the fused iron\\nunder our feet to a degree that makes us gasp.\\nThis being so, it is hard to condemn our guides\\nfor the want of self-control that is proverbial with", "height": "3760", "width": "2248", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthem in an ascent of Teide. They are for ever\\nfalling into the wake of the mule that carries the\\nwater-barrel, and one after another seizes a moment\\nwhen he thinks he is unobserved, to pull out the\\nplug, and tilt some liquor down his parched throat.\\nMuy bonito (very pretty!), remarks Diego, with\\nan indefinite wave of his hand over these hideous\\nmounds of red and russet lava and, under this\\npretence of devotion to the interests of his employers,\\nwhom he hopes he has thereby adequately diverted\\nfrom himself, he goes in the rear to the barrel.\\nAfter a time, however, we decide to keep our water\\nmule in front. A little of such larceny is permissible,\\nwhereas much might be disastrous.\\nWe are more than 5,000 feet up before we round\\nthe mountain shoulders sufficiently to get our first\\nview of the Peak from high ground. It peeps over a\\nnear heap of scoriae with an. affectation of littleness\\nthat might have deceived us. But the guides were of\\ncourse on terms of acquaintance with it, and hailed\\nthe diminutive pink-purple cone with a convincing\\nshout of, El Pico de Teide El Pico El\\nPico By and by, we saw more of it. The\\nethereal beauty of its summit was modified by\\nthe stern black lava pyramid upon which it appeared\\nto stand, even though the lava, in its turn, was\\nmade somewhat less depressingly gloomy by the\\nwhite veins of snow which scored it. It continued\\nto swell upwards as, little by little, we rose to the\\nlevel of the great crater-bed of the Canadas, in one\\npart of the circumference of which it is set with\\nthe completest symmetry so that, by one o clock,", "height": "3740", "width": "2416", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "THE PEAK IN SIGHT.\\n241\\nwhen we were on the skirts of the crater, and 6,000\\nfeet above the sea, we saw it before us from base\\nto summit. It was then a superb spectacle, but\\nits angle of elevation seemed so very steep that I\\nfancy we viewed it with feelings of alarmed respect\\nas much as admiration. But we were tired and\\nscorched, and not in a fit state for judicious ap-\\npraisal of the old volcano s difficulties. And long\\nere we had finished our lunch sprawled on the hot\\nsand, in the middle of a Titanic coil of scoriae, and\\nunder an improvised screen of wraps and retama\\nbushes we voted the Peak a hill of infinite as-\\nsumption, and ourselves able to manage a mountain\\ntwice its height, with guides or without them.\\nThe ascent of Teide, from Orotava, may be con-\\nveniently divided into a certain number of stages.\\nOf these the first must end with the Monte Verde,\\nor Green Mountain, where we were in the clouds and\\namong the heaths. The second is the Portillo, or\\nentrance to the Canadas. We were close to it when\\nwe lunched at mid-day. It is an imaginary gate to\\nthe third stage, on the Piano de Retamo, or Plain of\\nthe Retama, a wearisome plateau of yellow pumice,\\nvaried with blocks and small fragments of obsidian,\\nand studded with the welcome shrub that gives it its\\nname. This plain is the ancient crater of Tenerife,\\nfrom which the Pico proper soars upwards. It is\\nabout eight miles in diameter, from 7,000 to 8,000\\nfeet above the sea, and girdled by the angular rocks\\nof the Canadas, striking contortions of superb reds\\nand browns, and in places rising nearly 2,000\\nfeet above the plateau itself. Where we enter the\\n17", "height": "3740", "width": "2236", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "242\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nplain by the Portillo, the Canadas rocks seem to have\\nbeen carried away by a ponderous stream of old lava.\\nThe gate is, in fact, forced the toilsome climb\\nacross the scoriae antecedent to our lunch time was\\nover the molten mass which, ages ago, had wrought\\ntheir ruin on the circle of the Canadas. The fourth\\nstage of the ascent is the passage of the Montana\\nBlanca, a rounded hump at the foot of the Peak,\\nand of a pumice material rather whiter than that in\\nthe plain. The fifth stage includes the first thousand\\nfeet of the climb of the pyramid a tedious course,\\namid lava and obsidian in immense blocks, and ter-\\nminating at the Estancia de los Ingleses. Here is a\\nlevel space upon which are poised two or three great\\nboulders of rock about twenty feet high. It has ac-\\nquired so recommendatory a name from the fact that\\nour countrymen have been content to try and sleep\\nbetween these stones on their way up to the final\\ncrater. I do not know when the place was \u00c2\u00abso\\nchristened. Early in the eighteenth century it had\\nthe name. Possibly, therefore, it memorialises the\\nhalt of the party of scientists who paid the Peak a\\nvisit in the reign of Charles II. These gentlemen\\nobtained special ambassadorial permission to make\\nexperiments upon Teide. The Spanish envoy at the\\nCourt of St. James s thought they were joking when\\nthey declared their purpose of crossing the sea to\\nweigh the air on the summit of the Peak of Tenerife.\\nHe repeated the joke to Charles II. himself, with\\nmuch added laughter of his own, and was then\\nrather disturbed to find that the King of England\\nchanced to be one of the promoters of the Royal", "height": "3736", "width": "2376", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "HOT AND COLD.\\n243\\nSociety, under whose auspices the expedition was\\nbeing arranged. Accordingly, one may assume\\nthat these valorous servants of science have given\\nus this creditable mark of fame in a distant island\\nof Spain. From the Estancia, one ascends another\\nthousand feet, over sliding pumice of a vexatious\\nkind, to the site called Alta Vista. Here is a\\nwhite wooden house in a sheltered recess. It is a\\nsolid erection that would soon be provided with a\\nrefreshment contractor, and two or three beds for\\ntravellers interested in the sunrise, if the Peak of\\nTenerife were in England. As it is, the house\\nbelongs to a sulphur company, still engaged in\\nexploiting the sulphur of the Peak. Its door is\\nkept locked, and only by its window is it possible to\\nenter, in acrobatic fashion, among the pickaxes and\\nmattocks. It was close to this house, 10,700 feet\\nabove the sea, that Piazzi Smythe, in his laborious\\nsurveyal of the characteristics of the Peak, set up\\nhis tent some years ago, and lived for a while in ex-\\ntreme cold and extreme heat. Here also, a few years\\nlater, Dr. Marcet followed Piazzi Smythe s example,\\nand wondered with professional wonder how a con-\\nstitution merely human could bear the test to which\\nit was subjected by a temperature of the sun s rays\\nduring the daytime of about 212 and a temperature\\nat night of but 35 or 40 a variation in twenty-four\\nhours of 175 The ledge of Alta Vista is the sixth\\nstage of the ascent. The seventh is a slight semi-\\ncircuit of the final cone of the Peak, known as the\\nRambleta about another thousand feet higher than\\nthe sulphur house. This is a dreadful pile of obsidian", "height": "3744", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "244\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nblocks of lava, thrown into confused association by\\na pre-historic eruption. Between the masses there\\nare innumerable fissures into which it would be awk-\\nward to slip. And yet, for all this thousand feet of\\nvertical rise, the ascent has to be made by a series\\nof careful skippings from lava point to obsidian\\nedge, and from obsidian edge to lava point. One\\nis fortunate to reach the Rambleta with no worse\\nwounds than barked shins and frayed hands. At\\nthe Rambleta, the work seems done. The rosy Peak\\nis just above, at the head of a fine straight slope,\\nonly some five hundred feet high. But this slope is\\nat an angle of from 40 to 42 Moreover, it is little\\nelse than a cone of fine ash and dust. Humboldt\\nhas averred that an angle of 42 is the steepest that\\ncan be climbed over ground covered with volcanic\\nash. We may, therefore, take it for granted that\\nthis final pull up the cone of the Peak to the\\ncrater rim, which is the eighth and last stage of the\\nclimb, is all but impossible. It is certainly an in-\\nsufferable flounder. But it may be avoided or\\nmitigated by bearing to the left, and scaling a\\nlava flow which dives from the actual crater.\\nAfter luncheon amid the lava, we were ready for\\nthe third stage of our travel the Retama Plain. In\\nthe records of those ancient explorers who published\\ntheir narratives in quartos, or among the pages of\\nlearned periodicals, the trials to be endured from this\\npumice are said to be severe. I expected to be\\nblinded by the glare of the sun reflected from it, and\\nchoked by the dust eddied by the wind and stirred by\\nthe feet of our horses. No such thing, however.", "height": "3720", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "THE PLAIN OF THE RETAMA.\\n245\\nThe sun was hot, but was so far from depriving the\\nlandscape of interest by the torture it inflicted that\\nI recall this pale yellow plain, broken with purpled\\npinnacles of molten rocks, and bestrewn with the\\nsilver-grey retama bushes, as one of the most pic-\\nturesque tracts of country in my experience. Here\\nand there the retama had been burnt, and the long\\nwhitened trunks and roots, where they had been\\npulled from the soil, lay along it like the bleached\\nbones of an extinct race of mammoths. But\\nlittle imagination was necessary to make us fancy\\nourselves in a section of the Sahara, untrodden by\\nman, and invaded by beasts only at the peril of their\\nlives.\\nAgain, according to the old voyagers, who ought\\nto have been tough enough, the cold on this plain is\\nas acute as the heat of the sun is prodigious. Their\\nfinger-nails became discoloured, they lost the use of\\ntheir hands, and the skin of their lips roughened to\\nsuch a degree that these bled when they talked.\\nWell, I would not discredit such records but\\nnone of these incidents came to relieve the monotony\\nof our tramp across the desert. After the Peak, with\\nwhich by this time we were thoroughly at home,\\nnothing took our attention like the water-barrel. Of\\ncourse the dust irritated our eyes but this was only\\na trivial novelty in the midst of a scene which, with\\nits various parts, was wholly novel and absorbing.\\nTwo or three patches of snow in the sheltered side of\\nthe Montana Blanca informed us of our slow but\\ncertain progress upwards. Two or three hawks\\nskimming in this clear blue air were the only objects", "height": "3744", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "246\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nto remind us that we had other living beings in our\\nvicinity. The almost inaudible thud of our animals\\nhoofs in the hot sand, their quickened breathing, and\\nthat of the men, were the only sounds to be heard in\\nthis still, soundless plain. The clouds, now far be-\\nlow us, yet fenced the lower world from us like the\\nbroad brim of a hat. We seemed in another zone of\\nlife, with a bluer sky and an intenser sun dominant\\nover us.\\nWith occasional brief halts to rest the animals, and\\nallow the men to wipe their streaming faces and\\nbegin a fresh cigarette, we continued thus to the foot\\nof the actual pyramid. The view upwards is here in-\\nstructive and extraordinary. All of the steep slope\\nthat we can see at one glance is seamed with black\\nlava rivers. These are of lengths as various as their\\ncourses. Some have run down to the plain, and\\nmixed with the pumice. For the most part, however,\\nthey do not overstep the slope. Here they have\\ncooled, and here, under ordinary atmospheric in-\\nfluences, they ought long ago to have decomposed,\\nand formed a soil more or less cultivable. But the\\natmosphere at this altitude is extraordinary, and so\\nthese rivers are preserved in all their freshness. The\\npumice beneath them is also littered with a number\\nof vast red-brown spherical boulders, natural bomb-\\nshells spewed from the Peak in the course of centuries,\\nand sent rolling down the slopes until they have come\\nto rest about 4,000 feet from their starting point.\\nOrotava lies north-east of the Peak but we have to\\nmake a detour ere beginning to climb the pyramid.\\nSo sharp is the rise from the sea to the north and", "height": "3740", "width": "2380", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "BIVOUAC ON THE PEAK.\\n247\\nnorth-west that, with a good impetus, a stone might\\nbound from the crater mouth, and never cease mov-\\ning until it fell into the sea, several miles distant.\\nOur day s work is almost over at this point. It\\nis already four o clock time we were making our\\nbeds, building a house, and laying the supper table.\\nWith this cheerful prospect before us, therefore, we\\nworm our way up the shoulder, breasting current\\nafter current of lava, and grinding the pumice into a\\npowder that soon paints us all a bilious ochre colour\\nfrom head to toe. The men do not dissemble their\\ngroans. Even the water cannot give them much\\nsatisfaction now for the heat and the shaking have\\nmade it look and taste like a puddle in a clay-pit.\\nIn fact, we all hail the rocks of the Estancia; and\\neven the bits of beer-bottles, the rigid crusts, and the\\nrelics of tins that once held potted lobster, are wel-\\ncomed as genial indications that we are, in a measure,\\nat home, rather than as nauseating proofs that\\nnothing is sacred from the invasion of civilised beings.\\nThe horses are soon tethered. They know the\\nEstancia, and instinctively go to the spot where they\\nlingered through a restless night the last time they\\nwere up the Peak, may be a month ago. As for the\\nmen, their first impulse is to indulge in dolcc far\\nnientc. We have, therefore, to brisken them a\\nlittle, point to the mellow glow creeping over the\\nmountains and plains beneath us, as signs of the\\ncoming night mark out our bedrooms, and send our\\nchamberlains in quest of retama for our couches, for\\nthe big fire we propose keeping up through the night\\nto warm us, and for the little fire that is the first step", "height": "3760", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "248\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntowards supper. We take upon ourselves the more\\nartistic task of building a wall on the weather side of\\nthe opening between the rocks, of laying the table-\\ncloth, and drawing corks. And when all these agree-\\nable preliminaries are ended, there is time to walk to\\nand fro in the pumice alongside the Estancia, and\\nwatch the death of the day. Our thermometer, set\\nin a niche of our bed-chamber wall, is at 45 while\\nthe sun is yet above the horizon. But the sun s heat\\nis by this time quite withdrawn from us, as we are on\\nthe south-east side of the mountain. Nor do we ex-\\npect a much greater accession of cold than we already\\nfeel at this bracing height of 9,770 feet above the\\nsea.\\nThe sunset pageant was very odd, and entrancingly\\nbeautiful. The stratum of cloud which we had\\ntraversed some six or seven thousand feet lower than\\nthe Estancia, still hung thick and unmoved below us.\\nIn fact, it girdled what of the island was visible to\\nus, and the sea also to the horizon line. But, seventy\\nmiles away, the mountains of the island of Grand\\nCanary pierced this dull grey corrugated cloud plain,\\nand were dyed with rosy light. It was the same with\\nthe nearer island of Gomera, between Grand Canary\\nand the west. As for the reddish rocks over Guimar,\\nwhich we had already noticed earlier in the day, they\\nwere all of the colour of fresh blood. Again, the\\nplateau beneath us and the Canadas cliffs put on the\\ntenderest of tints. The pumice grew to a pale prim-\\nrose and saffron, and the mountain pinnacles were\\nof crimson, and brown, and red, merging into purple.\\nBut how rapidly the scenes changed The shadows", "height": "3736", "width": "2380", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "THE SUNSET SPLENDOUR. 249\\npursued the lights at a measurable speed. The air\\nseemed to chill as the intenser colours faded. We\\nthought it was all over, and were turning towards\\nour camp, when suddenly another great beam of\\ncrimson light broke upon the land, the clouds, and\\nthe sea, this time from the western side of our slope.\\nIn the midst of the sunset splendour there was now\\na triangular shadow, clearly defined, the apex over\\nthe mountains of Grand Canary. As the sun sank,\\nthis shadow rose. It rose fast, so that soon it seemed\\nto hang in the heavens, isolated, with the blanching\\nhues of sunset on all sides of it. A few minutes later,\\nand the stars were out. This shadow was the outline\\nof the Peak, traced by the sun, and projected scores\\nof miles seaward.\\nWe were reminded of our altitude by a singular\\ncontrast during this sunset spectacle. About thirty\\nmiles from the Peak, in the north-east extremity of\\nTenerife, we could see the infantine mountains of\\nAnaga, peeping grey and subdued from under the\\nclouds, while our upper air was still transfigured with\\nsunlight. For them there had long been no sun. It\\nwas only for such monarchs as Teide that the sun\\ncontinued to shine.\\nOf the night bivouac that followed, I cannot speak\\nwith enthusiasm. We made a roaring fire of retama\\nlogs, the thick smoke of which periodically drove into\\nour faces. The men lay down in a concentric circle,\\nwrapped in their blanket cloaks, with their heads to-\\nwards the fire. They snored contentedly, and were\\nas indifferent to the renewal of the fire as to the ex-\\ncitement of my horse the beast had some good blood", "height": "3756", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "250\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nin him, and neighed and tossed up the dust whenever\\nhe saw anything he could not account for. How-\\never, the sparks now and then fell on a soft part of\\ntheir skins, and made them jump up in despite of\\ntheir wishes.\\nAlthough the thermometer went no lower than 42\\nit was bitter cold. The rarity of the air had some-\\nthing to do with this, no doubt. I could not sleep at\\nall, and found more pleasure in keeping patrol, tend-\\ning the fire, and watching the ascent toward the\\nzenith of the half moon that was to guide us to the\\nsummit, than in trying to sleep. Moreover, one of\\nmy comrades had succumbed to the situation. The\\nair and the exertion had made him sick. We mixed\\nhim some grog in a saucepan, using a lump of hard\\nsnow instead of water but even the grog did not do\\neverything. He admitted his disinclination to go on\\nwhen the time came; and so there was nothing for it\\nbut to arrange a division of the party. They would\\nnot consent to my return, unsatisfied, with them it\\nwas decided, therefore, that Diego should take me to\\nthe top, and one of the other men should accompany\\nthem back to Orotava. We were to start simulta-\\nneously at about two o clock. The boy who was\\nnominated to guide my friends homewards at first said\\nhe would do no such thing. He pleaded timidity;\\nhe wanted more sleep he wished to proceed to the\\ntop, c. I will not go, he said, flatly. But a\\nbribe made him revert from this lofty strain of obsti-\\nnacy, and, at the appointed time, my friends and I\\nseparated with an interchange of good wishes.\\nIt was full night when we started upwards in the", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "ALTA VISTA.\\n251\\nteeth of a gentle wind that pinched me like an Arctic\\nzephyr. The moon was bright above us too small\\nto illumine our path completely, but sufficiently lus-\\ntrous to cast a bewitching glamour over all the scene\\nthat was visible to us. The clouds lay below, still as\\never, silvered like mother-o -pearl. Irregular patches\\nof snow, frozen hard, now and again loomed to the right\\nand left of us, from the stern, almost palpable black-\\nness of the lava. Had I had any superfluous energy\\nto put at the disposal of my imagination, these phan-\\ntom forms might have played pretty pranks with my\\nhead. But of this there was not the least chance.\\nThe climb was so severe that it monopolised every\\nfaculty. We slipped and slid on the pumice, stumbled\\nover scoriae half in shadow, and sent blocks of obsi-\\ndian speeding down to our friends at the Estancia,\\nin our attempts to move upwards. It is possible to\\nmake this stage of the ascent on horseback. Some\\npeople have the hardihood to accomplish it. But to\\nthe animals it is a terrible effort, and their riders at\\ntimes have to pay for it by a fall backwards that\\nmight end disagreeably.\\nHumboldt said it took him two hours to reach Alta\\nVista from the Estancia. Diego and I did the work\\nin less than an hour and a half, including the time\\nspent in a humiliating number of rests. These were\\nunavoidable so great was the call upon our\\nmuscles, so persistently did I pant in this high\\natmosphere. But it was sweet encouragement at\\nlast to see the wooden sides of the sulphur house close\\nto us, and to realize that we were now only about\\n1,500 feet from the summit. Though doubtful if our", "height": "3756", "width": "2224", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "252\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nfriends could hear us, we signalled to them with loud\\nwhoops, which echoed with weird emphasis from the\\nenormous masses of sublimity, as James Mont-\\ngomery might have called the dark shapes in our\\nvicinity.\\nBut a surprise was in store for us. If ever a man\\nmay assure himself that he is unlikely to meet any\\nof his fellow beings, and most unlikely to come\\nacross an acquaintance, might he not do so on a\\nsmall island in the Atlantic, 11,000 feet above the\\nlevel of that island, and at three o clock in the\\nmorning One would suppose so. At the moment,\\nhowever, when I had given the word to Diego to\\nmove forward, the figure of a man appeared from\\nbelow. At first this gentleman did not perceive us,\\nthough our shouts must have forewarned him of our\\nproximity and no sooner was he on the smooth\\nground than he thrust his fists into his sides, and\\nbegan to dance a hornpipe under the vague light of\\nthe moon. But I soon arrested this uncanny ex-\\nhibition of vitality by asking him who and what he\\nwas; and then we found that we were acquaintances.\\nHe was a Frenchman, the Count de la Moussaye,\\nwith only a few days holiday at his disposal and\\nhe had come direct from Orotava, resting not at all\\non the way. Here, at Alta Vista, he purposed\\nsupping at the fine Parisian hour of three a.m. His\\nguide followed him with the supper, and, after a short\\nsurvey of the house, which was only to be entered\\nby a heavy wooden window-flap, high up, one after\\nthe other, we climbed to this vent, and vanished like\\nharlequins within. A couple of candles were pro-", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "THE HOUR BEFORE THE DAWN.\\n253\\nduced, a bottle of Madeira was uncorked, and the\\ntemptation to devote an hour to my new friend was\\nso irresistible that I suspended work with Diego.\\nThe two guides forthwith rolled themselves up in\\ntheir blankets, and slept outside until our pleasure\\nwas over. It was really colder within than without\\nthe house we discovered afterwards that a slab of\\nice several inches thick lay between the boards and\\nthe ground, adapting the building for a refrigerator\\nwith complete success.\\nAt four o clock, we renewed the climb. It was\\nthat most cold of hours\u00e2\u0080\u0094 the hour before the dawn.\\nWe were gradually narrowing the area of mountain\\nshoulder which shielded us from the gusts that now\\nwhistled about us. And we had for a task the\\nclamber over as pitiless a wreck of rocks and molten\\nsubstances as the world can show. The least pres-\\nsure of a finger upon the sharp points and edges of\\nthese scoriae resulted in a scratch or an abrasion.\\nBetween the masses were crevices and fissures of\\nuncertain depth. The snow lay hard as iron in some\\nof them. Others were caked with ice, where the\\ninternal heat of the mountain had melted the snow.\\nOver this unpleasant tract we stepped daintily from\\npinnacle to pinnacle, in clear profile against the\\nsky. Of little use was my alpenstock here. Rather,\\nit became a snare, for the smooth obsidian boulders\\ngave it no secure purchase, and more than once it\\nearned me a fall that made me groan. After a while\\nI turned it to account as a balancing-pole and as\\nsuch it was not amiss. Thus, going in a very\\nleisurely manner, we attained the Rambleta, or last\\nstage but one of our work.", "height": "3760", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "254\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThis is really another ancient crater of the Peak, from\\nout of which, on an awful day or succession of days,\\ncenturies or even millenniums ago, the sugar cone, or\\nPiton of ash and lava, was suddenly ejected, raising\\nthe height of the volcano by some five or six hundred\\nnew feet, and carrying the active crater upwards for\\nthe same distance. The Piton, or actual summit, is\\ntherefore the representative or survival of two old and\\nexpunged craters the Rambleta and the Canadas.\\nJust as the Rambleta superseded the Canadas, so\\nthe Piton has superseded the Rambleta. Before the\\nlast eruption from the centre of the mountain, the\\nPeak of Tenerife was a truncated cone, like so many\\nof the South American volcanos. In fact, it is still\\nso but the area of the terminal crater now bears\\nso very small a proportion to the great bulk of the\\nmountain, that one almost forgets that it is not\\nabsolutely pyramidal in shape an isosceles triangle\\nmoulded by the hands of nature.\\nFrom the Rambleta we saw the sun rise. It was\\nas memorable a show as the sunset of the previous\\nevening. The clouds below were at first almost terri-\\nfying in their vastness and immobility, but they took\\nglow after glow of brilliant hues that soon changed\\ntheir character. Before the sun touched them they\\nwere like a limitless prairie of opaline billows,\\nmaterialized by superhuman alchemy. But the\\nlong, crimson line in the east, many minutes before\\nthe appearance of the sun, coloured them divinely,\\nand prepared them for the saturating flood of golden\\nlight which streamed upon them when the sun did\\nappear. The shifting scene of splendour that ensued", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "SUNRISE FROM THE PEAK.\\n255\\nis quite indescribable. At the outset, only the cone\\nof the Peak was touched by the dawnlight. The\\nlower slopes, the hills, the valleys, and the sea,\\nwere all in grey shadow when this early flush came\\nover us. It seemed to pause for a few moments on\\nthe dimpled crest of Teide, and then it moved down-\\nwards with smooth continuous speed as the sun rose\\nhigh. We were soon absorbed in it. Then the\\nmountains of Grand Canary came within its radius\\nand the island of Gomera, close to the left of us.\\nThe Canadas next caught the glory, and in one\\nrapturous instant the Plain of the Retama was\\nspread with cloth of gold. Thus, for long minutes\\nof time, we watched the gradual illumination of the\\nlower world, until at length we knew that the sun\\nhad risen for the ships at sea as well as for us,\\n12,000 feet above them. The Peak sees the sun\\nnearly twelve minutes before it is visible from its\\nbase. Of course the day is similarly protracted in the\\nevening. Hence the Peak s day is about twenty-four\\nminutes longer than the common clay in latitude 28\\nThe curious phenomenon of the shadow of Teide\\nwas now repeated. The enormous pyramidal phantom\\nwas thrown from east to west. At its origin, it fell\\nover Gomera, only fifteen miles from Tenerife, and\\nwas distinctly of an isosceles shape. But the ad-\\nvance of the sun broadened its base and changed its\\ndirection, so that when, half-an-hour later, we saw\\nit from the summit of the mountain, it was a burly\\nequilateral, with the apex resting on the rosy tops\\nof the Caldera of Palma, an island sixty miles to\\nthe west of Tenerife.", "height": "3760", "width": "2232", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "2 5 6\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nIn the meantime, we had to scale the Piton of ash\\nand pumice. The first hundred feet were trying in\\nthe extreme so abrupt is the slope, and so insecure\\nthe foothold. But, afterwards, the going is firmer,\\nthough very steep. We were here in an atmosphere\\nmarkedly sulphureous. Jets of vapour oozed from\\nholes in the rock to the right and left of us, and the\\ntemperature of the vapour was insupportable to the\\nhand. Sulphur in various forms took the place of\\npumice. We sank deep in the soft, adhesive crust,\\nwhich burnt my boots so that they yawned con-\\nspicuously. It was really hard to breathe at all,\\nwhat with the asphyxiating smell of the sulphur,\\nthe extreme rarity of the air, the nipping winds from\\nall points, and the labour of the final climb. Dr.\\nP of Puerto, had suggested that I should feel\\nmy pulse on the top of Teide it was 140 But\\nwhat did it matter We had climbed the Peak,\\nand here we were at six o clock in the morning, with\\nthe world at our feet, and a blue sky above us that\\nput all other blues to shame.\\nCertainly nothing could be more expressive than the\\nname Caldera, or cauldron, applied to the crater\\nof volcanoes like Teide. It is but one step from the\\nouter rim of the cone to the inner sheathing of the\\ncrater. A rugged wall of fused rock skirts the basin;\\nthere is an opening in the wall one passes through\\nthis opening; and, immediately, the foot sinks in the\\nblanched, burning sulphur, where it slopes to the\\nbottom of the crater. The rocks of this outer wall\\nare a few feet higher in one part than elsewhere.\\nThis is the highest point of the Pico de Teide and", "height": "3744", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT, 257\\nhere, for two or three mortally cold minutes, I perched\\nmyself, half persuaded that the feeling of vertigo\\nwhich has thrilled several respectable travellers in\\nthe same position was a sensation not to be doubted.\\nThis rock point is scarcely a yard in diameter. A\\nmountain 12,000 feet high could not culminate in a\\npinnacle much more satisfying to the imagination.\\nHad not the impermeable barrier of cloud, nearly\\ntwo miles down, hung between us and the greater part\\nof Tenerife, our view from the summit would no doubt\\nhave been prodigious. Even with the clouds, it is\\nnot to be forgotten. Of the seven large islands of\\nthe Canarian archipelago, the mountains of Palma\\nand Grand Canary, and the greater part of Gomera,\\nwere alone visible. It was easier to-day to see the\\ncoast of Africa than the coast line of Tenerife\\nbut we saw neither. The whole circuit of the\\nCanadas was distinct in every detail, and the scarlet\\nswellings on the south-west flank of the Peak.\\nThese are the result of Teide s more recent lateral\\neruptions. Probably none of them are two cen-\\nturies old. Their brilliant colouring, and that of\\nthe forest of vivid yellow pines, diving to the\\ncloud-zone, refreshed the eye. But, in the same\\ndirection, between the Peak and these hills, is one\\nconspicuous volcanic boil that, must not escape\\nnotice. It is the mountain of Chahora, only about\\n2,300 feet lower than Tei-de, and with a crater of\\nbeautiful formation nearly a league in girth. From\\nour standpoint, we looked into this crater, and\\ncould mark the passage of the lava that streamed\\nfrom it in 1798, when it was active for several weeks\\n18", "height": "3756", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "2 5 8\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nin succession. The rugged areas of desolation over\\nwhich it broods tell their own story. But, however\\none might try to be judiciously sympathetic in one s\\nsurvey, it was easier to admire the sombre bronzed\\nand jetty colours of this lava, under the unclouded\\nsun, than to think of the ruin it indicated.\\nThe descent into Teide s crater is a matter of no\\ndifficulty. It is but fifty or sixty feet deep, with a\\ndiameter of perhaps three hundred feet. True, with\\npressure, my alpenstock went to the handle into the\\nsoft sulphur but there was no danger of my sinking\\nto the same extent. The heat was oppressive the\\nwarm fumes stirred by our every displacement of the\\nsoil were very strong, and the white banks tried the\\neyes. Nevertheless, the crystals of sulphur, of\\nmany shades between pale yellow and dark orange,\\nwere quite irresistible, and I had soon given Diego as\\nmany specimens as he cared to carry. Humboldt\\ndwells upon the iniquity of his guides in this par-\\nticular. When his back was turned, they threw away\\nthe blocks of obsidian and pumice with which he\\nburdened them. In praise of Diego, therefore, I\\nmust say that he did no such thing. But perhaps it\\nwas rather because he had no vigour for revolt left\\nin him. For he was by this time a piteously frozen\\nobject the red and blue handkerchief which he had\\ntied from his pate to his chin, to put warmth into his\\ncheeks, harmonized only too well with their wintry\\nhue and all the while we were on the summit he\\nwas enthusiastic but once in his hearty Si, senor,\\nof assent to my proposition that we should leave it.\\nNo doubt it will be supposed that when we de-", "height": "3716", "width": "2348", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "WORKERS IN THE CRATER. 259\\nparted, these sublime solitudes were left to them-\\nselves, to be untroubled by humanity for weeks and\\nmonths. It were natural to think so. But ere we\\nleft it, the romance of the Peak was totally destroyed\\nby the arrival of ten stout countrymen, with mattocks\\non their shoulders. We watched them climbing the\\nash cone, not a little amazed at the sight of them.\\nThey were merely beginning their day s work, how-\\never. No sooner had they accosted us with ten\\naffable good mornings, than each man plunged into\\nthe crater, and began to dig up the sulphur. Con-\\nceive a person going nearly two miles and a half sky-\\nwards ere he enters upon his daily labour As for\\nthe risks attendant upon such labour, they are as\\nnothing compared to the hideous desecration it im-\\nplies. There is even a hut in the bottom of the\\ncrater, for the convenience of the Sulphur Company,\\nand these brawny-legged workers of it\\nIn our descent, we visited the famous ice-cavern\\nof Teide. It has the appearance of a chamber or big\\nbubble in the lava, going far within the bowels of\\nthe mountain but investigation is difficult. Within\\nwas a pool of lustrous green ice, large enough to\\nskate on and the huge contorted icicles, uniting the\\npool to the roof of the chamber, were beautiful\\nbeyond the dreams of a manufacturer of chandeliers.\\nHither in summer come the confectioners of Santa\\nCruz, to fetch ice for the compound of sweet cooling\\ndrinks. Alas how Teide s majesty seems lessened\\nwhen one knows that it serves such various useful\\npurposes\\nAnon, we are once more at the Estancia. The", "height": "3728", "width": "2216", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "26o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nsun is broiling, and we cling to the shadow of the\\nrocks of our bedchamber. Breakfast is spread, and\\nwe have fresh snow to cool our wine. M. le Comte\\nprotests that he is not tired, and indeed he talks like\\na man refreshed. But, as for me, I am dead beat, so\\nthat when later we cross the terrible desert of\\npumice, with 120 of heat in the air around us, I\\nsleep fast in my saddle. At four o clock in the after-\\nnoon, we are again in Orotava, after an absence of\\nthirty-six hours.\\nN\\nOUTLINE OF CHAHORA, AS SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK.", "height": "3712", "width": "2380", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XV.\\nPalma from Tenerife The weekly correo The misery of it\\nA fair night at sea\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Topography of Palma Origin of its\\nname\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Guayanfanta Conquest of Palma The brave king\\nof the Caldera\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Alonso de Lugo s mean shift Later\\nhistory of Palma\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Tenerife named by the people of Palma\\nThe Bishop and the convent cake Independence of\\nPalma The Vandewalle family, past and present.\\nThe island of Palma is hardly more than a plausible\\nmyth to the stranger who spends a few days at\\nOrotava, and then goes away. He is told, may be,\\nthat it is about fifty-five miles west of Tenerife and\\nthat if he looks steadily towards the golden glamour\\nof the clouds at sundown he may distinguish four or\\nfive purple paps rising with an air of substantiality\\nin the midst of the glory and that these paps are\\nthe mountain tops of Palma. But much deter-\\nmination must second him in his attempt to see\\nmountains where, to the common eye, clouds only\\nare to be seen.\\nOnce a week, in the evening, a battered, frittered,\\nand ineffably dirty little smack of about fifty tons\\nburden sails from Puerto, at a venture, for Palma.\\nThis barque carries the royal mails and merchandise.\\nAs an after-thought, passengers also are carried,", "height": "3756", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "262\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nrather as ballast than as a source of profit. They\\npay a trifle (about 6s.) for the convenience and it is\\nunderstood on both sides that nothing whatever will\\nbe done for their comfort on board the barque. They\\nmay lie where they can, and must accept the conse-\\nquences if they get in the way of the crew, or if a\\nstorm comes on, and it is found that the ship goes\\nheavily, to the imperilment of the mails.\\nWith only a dim presentiment of the nature of the\\nboat, the English chaplain at Orotava (Mr. Goddard)\\nand myself agreed to cross to Palma, view the island,\\nand return in a few days. Alas man proposes, and\\nGod disposes\\nTo get on board was easy, speaking comparatively.\\nTrue, the day was lowering, and the sea ran high on\\nthe coast. But the bulwarks of the correo, or\\nmail boat, were so low that we had only to wait until\\na wave lifted the shore boat to their level, and then\\nleap to the deck. Here we found ourselves among a\\nmedley of chains, ropes, sacks of potatoes, and boxes,\\nsome two score swarthy men and boys, and several\\nrestless cats and at every roll of the ship her mis-\\ncellaneous live and dead cargo was mixed in a most\\nconfusing manner. With such favourable conditions\\nfor sea-sickness, no wonder some of us were ill long\\nere the barque lifted her anchor and the gracious\\npanorama of olive slopes, dark headlands, and billows\\nof cloud, touched by the setting sun, where they\\nswayed round the base of the Peak this was nothing\\nto us, in spite of its beauty.\\nThen the stars shone forth, and meteors shot by\\nhundreds across the bright heavens. There was a", "height": "3740", "width": "2424", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE CORREO.\\n263\\npaltry moon but this was put to shame by the\\nglowing cone of the Peak, which, when we got from\\nunder the lee of its clouds, shone down upon us, with\\na silver track in the phosphorescent waters, like a\\ndivine beacon. The coppery crew now left the ship\\nto sail unaided, trusting in the land wind. They\\nsmoked and spat, and sang shrill songs, and lurched\\nto and fro in the wake of a big pot over the\\ngalley fire, and caught the red beams of the fire on\\ntheir faces and their bare skins, and tripped over the\\npassengers who lay groaning, prone upon the boards,\\namong the chains. It was a diabolical night, not\\nwithout a charm through all its agony. But, even-\\ntually, the dawn came to cheers us, and the bold,\\njagged peaks of Palma s higher cordillera all crim-\\nson and clear under the first beams of the sun-\\nbrooded over us with a kindly affectation of nearness\\nwhile yet we were a dozen miles off. And so we\\nlanded on this strange shore as we had got on the\\nboat, w r ith a timely jump, heedful of the brisk reces-\\nsion of the long wave which gave us our oppor-\\ntunity.\\nPalma is the third of the Canaries in size. It is,\\nroughly speaking, twenty-five miles long by fifteen\\nbroad, with a configuration similar to that of Tenerife.\\nTenerife has for its nucleus the Peak the barrancos and\\nslopes which trend thence to the coast-line are, with\\nthe exception of the appendix of Anaga, the material\\nof the island. And Palma, in like manner, centres\\nupon the Caldera, that prodigious old extinct volcano,\\nthe very measurement of which must be conjectural,\\nbut with a crater said to be six miles in diameter,", "height": "3756", "width": "2264", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "264\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nand girt by mountains 7,000 feet high. Save the\\ntract on the west of Palma known as Los Llanos\\n(the Plains), all the island is mountain or plateau\\nand the barvancos which radiate from the Caldera\\nare tremendous ravines, as formidable to the travel-\\nler as the worst of those of Tenerife. Viera com-\\npared Palma to a palm tree. Its gorges stand for\\nthe fronds of the palm, and the cordillera running\\nfrom the Caldera to the south is the stem of the palm.\\nThe similitude is ingenious, and may explain the\\nname of the island. But, since we once more touch\\nthe etymological puzzle, it may be remarked that the\\nMallorquinos, cruising in these seas in the fourteenth\\ncentury, reached the island and landed. It is not\\nimprobable, therefore, that these mariners, with their\\nthoughts veering to Palma, the capital of their own\\nisland of Mallorca, are responsible for the true\\nchristening of the Canarian Palma. Of course there\\nare other conjectures, but we will not concern our-\\nselves with them.\\nThis island has less claim on the historian than any\\nof the other six islands of the archipelago. I have\\nmentioned the melancholy character of its robust\\naborigines, their singular religious ritual, and their\\nstoical manner of leaving the world when life grew\\nburdensome. Their women seem to have had the\\nnobler souls, as well as muscular bodies. Of their\\nstrength, the sad story of Guayanfanta may give an\\nexample. Guayanfanta w r as a beautiful and majestic\\nnative woman, who aroused the admiration of certain\\nmarauders from Hierro. These men saw T and pursued\\nher. Fearing to fall into their hands, Guayanfanta", "height": "3728", "width": "2440", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "FANCIFUL HISTORY.\\n265\\nturned, seized the nearest of her assailants, put\\nhim under her arm, and hurried to a near ravine,\\nwhere she purposed holding him over an abyss until\\nshe had arranged for her own safety with the others.\\nUnfortunately, the poor woman was overtaken and\\nthe ruffians, angry at being so treated by a woman,\\nbroke both her legs, and left her to die.\\nAlonso de Lugo, the conquistador of Tenerife,\\nhad subjugated Palma before attacking the Guan-\\nches. He landed at Tazacorte, on the west coast\\nof the island, on St. Michael s Day, 1-491, and on May\\n3, 1493, he achieved what he called a glorious\\nvictory over Tanausu, the King of the Caldera, the\\nlast monarch of the twelve in Palma to hold out\\nagainst the invaders. As usual, the particulars of\\nthe conquest vary with the chronicler. According to\\nNunez de la Pena, all the force of Palma mustered\\nnear the shore, to oppose the nine hundred men whom\\nthe Spaniard disembarked. The two armies sat\\ninactive, each doubtful of the prudence of attacking\\nthe other. De Lugo, in this extremity, fell on his\\nknees, and with fervour invoked the Virgin and his\\nown patron saint, Michael, to help him, promising\\nSaint Michael that the land should be dedicated to\\nhim if the Spanish arms were victorious. Simul-\\ntaneously, a panic seized the natives. It is better\\nto obey than to die, they cried; and thus they all\\naccepted the sovereignty of Spain, without striking\\none blow for their independence. Nunez de la Pena s\\nversion of the conquest may accord with what one\\nwould expect from a nation of men in subjection to\\ntheir wives, but it is on the whole incredible.", "height": "3756", "width": "2268", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "266\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThe likelier narrative tells us that Alonso had no\\ndifficulty with eleven of the kings or princes of Palma:\\nthey dubbed themselves vassals, were baptized, and\\nsubscribed to the Christian religion as soon as they\\nunderstood the alternative course but that he was\\nfor a time seriously defied by the King of the Caldera.\\nTanausu lived in the vast crater of Palma, a retreat\\neasily made impregnable and he, with his subjects,\\nbroke the necks and backs of the Spaniards by\\nshowering pine trunks and rocks upon them when\\nthey attempted to enter the defile leading to the\\nroyal residence. Marking these failures, Alonso tried\\ntreachery. He invited Tanausu to a conference in\\nthe plains outside the Caldera, pledging his word\\nthat no harm should be done to him. The poor bar-\\nbarian was not rogue enough readily to scent the\\nroguery of others. He left his fortress, and this was\\nat once possessed by the Spaniards. A captive, he\\nbitterly refused the Christianity offered to him by his\\nlying foes, who then tried to transport him, uninjured,\\nto Spain, to be exhibited at court as a king in chains.\\nBut Tanausu had the spirit of a Roman patriot. No\\nsooner did he understand what his lot was to be,\\nthan he leaped from the ship into the sea, and was\\ndrowned.\\nThis was in 1493. During the intervening four\\nhundred years, Palma s history has been of a parochial\\ncharacter. The conquest ended, the land was divided\\namong the conquerors, and the natives were shipped\\nto Cadiz to be sold as merchandise, not the less\\nattractive, commercially, for the rude garments of\\nskins which they wore in Spain as they had worn in", "height": "3744", "width": "2424", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "P ALMA S SECLUSION.\\n267\\ntheir own hot valleys. Alonso then prepared for war\\nwith the Guanches. From Palma the Peak of\\nTenerife is a magnificent spectacle, and the con-\\nquistador would be encouraged in his plans by the\\nconstant sight of the mountain, apparently sus-\\npended between the waters and the heavens. 1\\nCertain of the new proprietors of the land cared less\\nfor their estates than for the chance of more war,\\nand they therefore left the peopling of Palma to\\ndeputies. Convents, churches, and monasteries\\nsprang up in different parts of the island. Later,\\nsome noble emigrants from Spain and Flanders\\nbrought hither a wholesome leaven of good blood.\\nEverything, in short, seemed done that was needful\\nto incite Palma to become a distinguished addition\\nto the Empire.\\nBut the island has, in fact, lived ever since in a\\nstate of happy obscurity. It has been spared the\\ncares and hazards of greatness or conspicuousness.\\nThe other islands of the Canaries duly gained laurels\\nin self-defence against Drake, Blake, Jennings, Nel-\\nson, and other sea captains but Palma achieved no\\nvictories. In 1553, the capital, Santa Cruz de la\\nPalma, was sacked by a body of seven hundred\\nFrenchmen the town s archives and several houses\\nfell to the flames. In 1570, again, a community of\\nPalma Jesuits, forty in number, were attacked at sea,\\nand all murdered by the French. These are the\\n1 Tenerife is said to owe its name to the people of Palma,\\nwho, being able to view it as a whole, had better right to the\\nchristening than the Guanches themselves Tenerife\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Tener,\\nwhite snow and Ife, a high mountain.", "height": "3744", "width": "2248", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "268\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nchief sorrows of the island during the last four cen-\\nturies.\\nPalma was also largely left to itself both by the civil\\nand ecclesiastical rulers of the Canarian province. It\\nwas not quite so oblivious of the passage of time as\\nits neighbour, Hierro, the people of which island were\\nfor long wont to despatch a ship annually to Palma to\\nask when Lent ought to begin. But its distance from\\nTenerife kept the authorities aloof from it. During a\\nhundred and seventeen years, it was traversed but twice\\nby the bishop of the diocese. On one of these two\\noccasions, an event occurred indeed which may have\\nfrightened subsequent bishops. The nuns of a con-\\nvent in the capital, in congratulating their spiritual\\nlord on his presence among them, sent him a superb\\ncake, home-made, and elaborately decorated with\\nsugar and almond excrescences. But, in their ner-\\nvousness, the girls seem to have put poison into the\\ncake as an ingredient. Luckily, they discovered their\\nmistake ere the prelate tasted the cake. As it was,\\nthe prelate s pages, who had picked at its ornaments,\\nwere the only sufferers.\\nBut this very isolation and abandonment, which\\nwould tend to degrade most communities, has been\\nof some service to Palma. The merchants of its\\ncapital have established a trade, quite their own,\\nwith Havana and the West Indies. Their ships go\\nbackwards and forwards, independently of the other\\nislands and the peninsula, and thus the foundation\\nof a robust individuality has been laid in this small\\nisland.\\nIn spite of this mercantile energy, however", "height": "3736", "width": "2456", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "THE VANDEWALLE FAMILY. 269\\nPalma is bound by a long series of unfractured\\nlinks to its calm past history. In 1555, a certain\\nnative of Bruges named Vandewalle, who, with\\nhis father, a burgomaster of Bruges, and thirteen\\nbrothers, had fought through various wars in the\\nNetherlands, sailed from Cadiz, of which city he\\nhad been the governor, for this Atlantic island.\\nHere the Vandewalles soon acquired fame as civic\\nadministrators and religious benefactors. This fame\\nhas gained fresh increment with each century, and\\nnow, in 1887, it is still, as in 1587, the Vandewalles\\nwho are looked upon as the prime notables of Palma.\\nThe family has in the meantime been ennobled.\\nI was fortunate enough to have a letter of introduc-\\ntion to the Marquis de Guisla, the present head of\\nthe house, a gentleman who bears his official respon-\\nsibilities lightly, though he fulfils them none the less\\neffectually therefore. He and the friends who fre-\\nquented his house devoted their leisure to stamp-\\ncollecting. Whenever I paid the Marquis a visit, I\\nfound his stamp album open on the table, and him-\\nself, with his friends, busily engaged in pasting or\\npreparing his stamps with the earnest assiduity of a\\nschoolboy. Our talk was of duplicates and pro-\\nvisionals, rather than of local commerce, politics, and\\nthe other subjects of current use for casual acquain-\\ntances and to these gentlemen in the prime of life\\nthe impending exhibition in Antwerp of collections\\nof foreign stamps was a more serious matter than\\nthe movements of all the European Powers put\\ntogether.", "height": "3756", "width": "2300", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVI.\\nSanta Cruz of Palma A warm town The mole Steep streets\\nPalma women Don Pedro and his wife Palma fashions\\nMorning routine The craterette of Santa Cruz Archi-\\ntecture and industries of Santa Cruz The Church of San\\nSalvador Altar machinery Our Lady of the Snows The\\ncockpit A series of fights Palma s dependence on Eng-\\nland Local wines and tobacco Weevils Locusts Le-\\ngend of the Peak of Tenerife, and the Caldera of Palma.\\nSanta Cruz de la Palma, the capital of the Island\\nof Palma, is a hot, but markedly picturesque town.\\nIt is built, in fact, on the extremity of a section of a\\ncrater, which faces the sea on its southern side, with\\na remarkable brown precipice terminating in the\\nwater. North, the city is pent by long bare promon-\\ntories, falling from the buttresses of the great Cal-\\ndera, three and four thousand feet above the sea level.\\nSouth, this crater cliff, a thousand feet high, with a\\nbroad plateau of rich cultivated country proceeding\\nfrom it in a south-westerly direction inland, shields\\nthe city from breezes in that quarter. While, lastly,\\ntier after tier of high, wooded mountains rise steeply\\nbehind the city, to form the backbone or cordillera of\\nPalma; so that the ascent west, in little more than a\\nmile from the main street of Santa Cruz, is between", "height": "3732", "width": "2444", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "A WARM CITY.\\n271\\na thousand and fifteen thousand feet. The city gets\\na breeze from the sea, east and south-east. But as\\nAly.\\n9 ///9 \\\\8^ b\\nfico. GAroi\\nfico. rfe J or ado\\n/da\\niimf Tazacorie\\n(I\\nTor rente de Lai\\neruption de 1 51\\nCaleia de los Pajaros\\\\\\n\\\\1A\\nsi.\\n1\\nCrtleTa de 7n,hor\u00c2\u00a5)\\nj(iW oFuencaliente\\nI ll\\nPta.de Fuencaliente\\no. c/e Sd. Juan\\n^Piedad\\n..CRUZ DE LA PALMA\\nmta. de Bajamar\\nfeo .We Ayiwcncio\\ntta.ldel Ganado\\nde Tigalate\\nPalma Extreme dimensions 26 miles by 16.\\nthese quarters are notorious for their heat, the breeze\\nis not so refreshing as it might be,", "height": "3744", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "272\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nAlready, in mid- April, we found it very warm here.\\nIn the shade of the roof of our hotel, the thermometer\\nregistered 84\u00c2\u00b0, and our bed-room seldom marked\\nless than 70 night and day. Notwithstanding this,\\nthe people of Palma are curiously loyal in defending\\ntheir climate. They learn that the English have\\nmade Tenerife a health resort, and they also are\\ndetermined to build a sanatorium or a big hotel on a\\ncliff a thousand feet over the city. To question the\\nwisdom of this step is to touch a native gentleman\\non his most sensitive part: to point to the thermome-\\nter, and to ridicule the corrco as a means whereby\\ndelicate people are to get to their haven of rest, is\\nto risk a quarrel. Thermometers are not to be\\nbelieved the correo will be superseded by a fine\\nsteamer If we ask when this will take place, the\\nreply is, Paciencia\\nIn the meantime, the city is working hard at its\\nmole, in readiness for the visitors who are to come\\nto it. Scores of men are employed making huge\\nblocks of concrete, thirty to thirty-five tons in weight.\\nThese are one by one lugged to the end of the mole,\\nand foisted into the sea, where they make a rough\\nbut ponderous foundation for the pier itself. I know\\nnot how many hundred of the blocks are required,\\nbut if five in a week are tumbled over the edge, it is\\nthought a good week s work. The director of the\\nundertaking is a skilled engineer, with a medal from\\nthe Philadelphia Exhibition of 1876, and under his\\ngreen umbrella he defies the sun for the good of his\\ncountry.\\nIn other respects, there is more energy here than", "height": "3716", "width": "2456", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "THE WOMEN OF PALMA.\\n273\\none looks for. The chief streets, O Daly Street (evi-\\ndently of Irish origin), and Santiago Street, are\\nflanked with large shops and warehouses of astonish-\\ning importance. They would not be out of place in\\nRegent Street and yet they and their crowd of gen-\\nteel shopmen all have an air of prosperity that it is\\nhard to deduce from a population of but ten or twelve\\nthousand people. There is not much traffic. The\\nstreets, save those parallel with the shore, are\\nabominably steep. Their cobbles, too, seem made\\nfor the fracture of limbs. Thus, in all the town there\\nseems but one span of oxen, used for the concrete\\nblocks already mentioned, and a single shrewd, flat\\nmule cart, which the mule drags about with oscilla-\\ntions suggestive of the sea. Pack-mules and asses do\\nthe hard work. Of good horses there is a distinct\\ndearth, and when a rich proprietor comes clattering\\ninto the city, with the tail of his steed distended be-\\nhind him, all the shopmen hurry to the doors, and\\nthe ladies in a hundred houses appear at the windows\\nto see the curiosity.\\nMethinks the women of Palma in a measure main-\\ntain their old supremacy over the men. Some of\\nthem are tall and stalwart enough for grenadiers,\\nbut their beauty seems to be rather coarse, and of the\\nmasculine order. The landlady of our hotel is a fine\\nexample of a Palma woman. She is large and dark,\\nwith strong features, and a deep, melodious bass\\nvoice. Her husband, on the other hand, is small,\\ndapper, and hysterical in his movements and man-\\nners. He is, moreover, so completely in thrall to his\\nown excitable feminine temperament, that it brings\\n19", "height": "3732", "width": "2352", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "274\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nhim to serious humiliation ten times a day. He and\\nhis wife quarrel across the banisters or the patio of\\nthe building but the bass voice always has the best\\nof it, and Don Pedro, the small man, goes away\\nwiping his moist face with his silk handkerchief, and\\nmuttering something about women and the weather.\\nThere is more character in the dress of the Palma\\nwomen than in Tenerife, or rather in the head dress\\nonly. Some of them wear ridiculously little white\\nstraw hats, a few inches in diameter, and set, with\\na forward inclination, upon the silk handkerchief\\nwhich first covers their hair. Others, in common\\nwith some men, adopt the montera, a unique thing.\\nThis is a cylinder of dark blue cloth, with a head-\\npiece attached at right angles. When put on, the\\ntwo open extremities hang one on each side as if for\\nventilation. Neither of these fashions is becoming,\\nbut then it is probable that these stern women would\\nlaugh to scorn the notion that they decked them-\\nselves to ensnare the affection of such nonentities as\\nthe men.\\nThe fashions and physiognomies of Palma are best\\nto be seen early in the morning. Soon after dawn,\\nthe tinkle of goat-bells sounds in the streets, and\\ncountrymen with calves and vegetables and eggs\\ncollect on the two sides of a dry river-bed which bi-\\nsects the street of Santiago, near the old church and\\nthe stately post-office of the city. Here the hum of\\ngossip and chaffering continues until the sun is high.\\nMen of the north of the island, in goats-hair caps,\\nwith a peak and a tailpiece like a coal-heaver s bonnet,\\nin short cotton drawers, and leathern. aprons, meet", "height": "3724", "width": "2472", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "ROUTINE IN PALM A.\\nthe more ordinary costumes of the rest of the island.\\nThe congregation by the iron bridge, with the dry\\nstones of the river, the flutter of palms higher up\\nthe bed of the stream, the towering mountains, clear\\nof cloud for a few hours after sunrise, the nearer\\narchitecture the decorated portico of the parish\\nchurch the sumptuous chiselling of the sixteenth\\ncentury post-office and the tall houses, with green\\nand scarlet balconies all make a pretty and lively\\npicture.\\nIndeed, one must live early here. Every sensible\\nman, woman, and child gets out of bed when the\\ngoats give the signal. Then is the time to bathe in\\nthe Atlantic rollers, from the black volcanic sands of\\nthe shore, upon which nothing but a tamarisk bush\\nor two obtain a footing. One may then see many\\na pretty face taking the air, innocent of the powder\\nwhich later covers its beauties without mercy. The\\ncitizen and his wife then take their constitutional\\nand the gay youth who may have lost a year s pocket-\\nmoney at the card table last night, forgets everything\\nin dutiful attention to his mother, whom he now\\nescorts up and down the sands with amiable in-\\ngenuousness. For the aged and infirm, there is the\\nroof of the house. They take their morning cup of\\nchocolate among the geraniums and roses, with an\\nunimpeded view of the mountains on one side, and\\nthe pale blue tranquil sea, with the divine white cone\\nof the Peak far away on the other side. So still is\\nthe air in this brief interregnum, when there is wind\\nneither from the land nor the sea, that it is easy to\\ntalk from a roof in one street to a roof in another.", "height": "3736", "width": "2352", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "276\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nAnd it is also easy in the clear atmosphere to mark\\nDonna Isabella s smiling acknowledgment of the\\nvarious glances of admiration which proceed through\\nas many telescopes, cavalierly levelled at her from\\nroofs far and near. But all too soon the heat is fit to\\ncrack the cement of the azoteas; and the ladies who\\nwere so graceful when seen watering their flowers,\\nor pacing the roof arm-in-arm, retire indoors nor\\ndo they re-appear until the sun is down.\\nThe crater, or craterette, seeing that it is only half\\na crater, close to the south of Palma, offers a pretty\\npiece of exploration for the morning hours. It seems\\nvery near indeed but it is a long hour s climb to the\\ntop of it. The bare basaltic and gritty masses, which\\nlie from it in sharply-inclined planes towards its base,\\nare soon heated and while yet Santa Cruz is cool,\\nthousands of bronze and purple butterflies and locusts\\nare here disporting themselves in congenial tempera-\\nture. The shape is boldly amphitheatrical, with an\\nupper edge from twelve to fifteen hundred feet above\\nthe sea. This is tufted in two or three places with\\npalm trees; a white convent crowns the bracing height\\nat its loftiest and a crucifix looks down from a per-\\npendicular crag at the city and the Atlantic. We\\nclambered along its edge, amid clusters of bugloss and\\nwhite iris, conjecturing about the origin of the volcano,\\nand the singular offshoot from its summit of the\\ninland plateau of Buenavista, with its rich fincas\\nand groves of palms. A man proceeding from the\\ncountry to the coast, in ignorance of local geography,\\nmight well be surprised suddenly to find himself on\\nthe top of so gigantic a concavity as this. But to-", "height": "3712", "width": "2448", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "LOCAL INDUSTRIES.\\n277\\nwards the city, the crater gets somewhat isolated\\na well-defined moat, with abrupt outer sides, marking\\nthe ancient Piton of the dead and mutilated volcano.\\nAs we were the only English who had visited\\nPalma that year, our acquaintances in Santa Cruz\\ncivilly made much of us. None of the treasures and\\nantiquities of the city were hid from us. There was\\nthe flag which Alonso de Lugo,in 1492, led through the\\nisland, at the head of his 900 filibusters Its crimson\\nsilk and silver thread bore the arms of Spain and De\\nLugo on different sides. It is kept in the town hall\\nthe stately colonnaded building which is also the\\npost-office. The city also boasts a museum, spick\\nand span, meagre, but in careful hands. A few\\nGuanche skulls, as they are called, may be seen\\nbut the people of Palma were not Guanches,\\nand the heads are local heads. The geological\\ncollection is neat, if not extensive. It is much\\nsurpassed by the private collection of a friend of\\nthe Marquis de Guisla s. But the good people of\\nPalma were proudest of all to show us their indus-\\ntries. There was a silk factory, for instance, which\\nwe entered through the circular arch of an old con-\\nvent the bell tower, with its red balconies, looking\\ndown at us from above. Here the history of a silk\\ndress was unfolded, from the green cocoons, purchas-\\nable at three shillings per pound, to the soft fabric\\nwhich in the machine-room came forth from the loom,\\ncrimson and delicate, ready for the milliner. The\\nworms were on large trays, from those at a day old,\\nof the size of ants, and as lively to those at twelve\\ndays, respectable in size, sobered with age, and full", "height": "3760", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "278\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nof staid energy for the due fulfilment of the business\\nof life. Their surroundings were charming. From\\ntheir trays they might look forth at a cool little\\ngarden of palm and orange trees, geraniums and\\nchina roses, all centring upon a marble fountain.\\nOn the. other hand was the disused refectory of the\\nconvent, with a rough defaced fresco of Christ on the\\ncross at one extremity, and a knot of swarthy men\\nstitching the white sails of their ships, seated on the\\nsteps of the building. The industry is under the\\ncontrol of a skilled Frenchman from Lyons, and\\nmuch is expected from it. Aniline dyes are not\\nadmitted to the laboratory the local cochineal is,\\nwith good reason, preferred.\\nThe parochial church of San Salvador is, within\\nand without, one of the most tasteful in the archi-\\npelago. The chiselling of its portico is minute and\\nelegant, and the dark woodwork of its interior is\\ncleanly carven. Inside, it feels and looks like the\\nchurch of an opulent people, though its pavements\\nmay be crowded by barelegged peasants bearing every\\nmark of poverty. Among its curios is a painting by\\nEsquibel, in 1841, of the Transfiguration, at a cost of\\n\u00c2\u00a3150. The fine colouring of this picture gladdens the\\neyes after the rubbish that generally fills the Canarian\\nchurches. But San Salvador is richest in its actual\\nbullion and its vestments. We were dazzled by the\\nglint and value of the gold and silver of its monstrances\\nand chalices, and patens some antique, and curious\\nin shape and design by the number of the silver\\ncandlesticks and silver-cased staves which are part\\nof the formulas of the church s processions. There", "height": "3736", "width": "2456", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "CHURCH TREASURES.\\n279\\nwere sets of silver sheathing for the altar and some\\ncareful relievo work on silver book-rests and book-\\ncovers. As for the vestments, their gorgeousness\\nholds the tongue mute. We looked upon embroidered\\ncopes and chasubles, heavy with gold and silver lace\\nwoven upon silks and velvets and satins, purple,\\ncrimson, green, and blue, until we wearied of the\\nmagnificence. One of these robes, made at Toledo,\\nrepresented in gold and silver upon silk and satin, all\\nthe native flowers of Palma. They told us a curious\\ntale about a certain cope of gold and silver and\\ndamask, and the broad marble font, thickly decorated\\nwith figures and landscapes. Both were said to be\\nfrom our Cathedral of St. Paul s, of the time of\\nHenry VIII., and presentations to Palma. Else-\\nwhere in the Canaries, one hears the same story. It\\nmay be, however, that they are wrong about the\\ndate. For it is possible enough that when Philip II.\\nof Spain was also king consort of England, certain of\\nour church properties got distributed to aliens.\\nHere in San Salvador an uncommon mechanical\\napparatus is used to relieve the officiating priest at\\nthe altar. At a word of command, the sanctuary\\nopens and shuts, contracts or expands, by invisible\\nagency. Another signal educes a short flight of\\nwooden steps from the body of the altar and when\\nthe priest has used these steps for reaching the Host\\nwithin the sanctuary, they vanish as mysteriously as\\nthey appear, the breach closes, and no sign of the\\nmagic remains. Few theatres have their stage\\nmachinery so well in hand.\\nBut though the parochial church of San Salvador", "height": "3760", "width": "2332", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "28o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nis the most ornate in the island, it does not hold the\\naffections of the people like the lesser building dedi-\\ncated to our Lady of the Snows. This stands on a\\ngreen knoll of volcanic tufa at the head of a deep\\nbarranco near the capital, and with the wooded peaks\\nof Palma s cordillera soaring almost from the church\\nwalls. Since 1646 the islanders have loved this little\\nchurch with an intensity we Northern Protestants\\ncan but dimly understand. In that year Palma was\\nterrified by one of the worst volcanic eruptions in its\\nmodern history. Four streams of lava were running\\nat the same time. All the south-west of the island\\nwas menaced with destruction. Then, in their dis-\\ntress, the people besought our Lady of the Snows,\\nand a procession carried her image from the chapel\\nin the barranco to the capital. On the following\\nmorning, snow was seen on the summits of the moun-\\ntains, and the eruption had ceased. As this happened\\nto be the festival of our Lady of the Snows, and the\\ntime of summer (August 5), the miracle and the\\nmediation were both equally definite. And thus, in\\ngrateful memory of the past, Santa Cruz continues\\nto honour the chapel in the barranco, and every five\\nyears carries her image into the town, with a pomp\\nand thunder of cannons, and general festivities, that\\ndraw the other islanders hither by hundreds.\\nIt is in this famous little chapel, moreover, that\\nthe seamen plying between Havana and Palma still\\nmake their vows. Its walls are hung with grotesque\\nold pictures, signifying the miracles wrought at sea\\nby this gracious Virgin. In 1704, for instance, the\\ncaptain of a Canarian barque, in conflict with a", "height": "3744", "width": "2448", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS.\\n2S1\\nTurkish pirate, invoked the Virgin of the Snows, with\\nsuch success, that during a three hours fight not one\\nSpaniard was killed, but many Turks. Here again\\nis another simple story: The barque of Nicolas\\nMarques, having gone from this port for the isle of\\nSt. Michael, the 25th February, on the 26th day of\\nthe voyage, in the night, there came on a fierce\\nstorm, and having in the strife seen a star, they in-\\nvoked Our Lady of the Snows, and the trouble was\\nsoon at an end the year 1702. The ship figures\\nas a little boat tossed in the white water, while a star\\nlike a sun is shining in a blue sky over a bank of\\npurpled vanishing cloud. Elsewhere in the church,\\na heap of old sails, and innumerable waxen legs,\\nheads, and arms testify, as thank-offerings, to the\\nthaumaturgic worth of the shrine.\\nWith such a reputation, the chapel is likely to be\\nrich. Two hundred pounds a year is gathered from its\\nalms-boxes alone no small sum in an island where\\nit is hard to exchange money s worth for money. It\\nis, indeed, the wealthiest establishment in Palma,\\nand the happy priest who has it in charge lives in a\\nsequestered house hard by, in a garden of many fruit\\ntrees, and sheltered from all rude winds by the\\nverdant slopes and cliffs of the mountains, cloud-\\ncapped as to their heads.\\nIn enumerating the chief buildings of Palma s\\ncapital, I have omitted one the cock-pit. This is a\\nwhite octagonal, with a cupola of crimson glass, and\\na gilt vane. From the sea, nothing in the town is\\nmore conspicuous and one is prone to assume that\\nit is the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor.", "height": "3744", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": "282\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nDuring the earlier centuries of the Spanish occu-\\npation, bulls were brought into the island arenas, as\\nin Spain still. Subsequently, for some unknown\\nreason, the bulls were discarded and game-cocks,\\nof English extraction, now supply the populace with\\nthat surfeit of blood and death which seems to be a\\nneed of the Spanish temperament. Don Pedro, our\\nlandlord, at first fancied we were drawn to Palma by\\na certain cock-fight in which a famous veteran was\\nto take part. He appealed to us, as authorities, on\\nseveral technical points in the frays, and was amazed\\nto learn that in England it was illegal to practise the\\nsport which he conceived to be one of the most\\nbrilliant features of English life.\\nThe series of duels I witnessed in this white arena\\none Sunday morning differed but little from the duels\\nthat take place daily in every lusty farmyard, save\\nthat they were to the death. Five or six hundred\\ntownspeople crowded the building, the brown legs of\\nthe boys hanging down from the gallery towards the\\nmore aristocratic vicinity of the cockpit. Not Epsom\\npaddock five minutes before the Derby start ever\\npresented such a scene of tumult as this small place\\nwhen the birds were rubbed beak to beak as a pre-\\nliminary to each main. The lads roared their wagers\\nin cents the richer citizens and the nobility offered\\ndollars and tens of dollars. A marquis, with his own\\nhands, untied the blue or crimson ribbons which\\nattached the sheath to the maiden spurs of the birds.\\nAnother estimable gentleman held the scales while\\nthe combatants were weighed, and plucked feathers\\nfrom the tailpieces, where this was necessary to", "height": "3716", "width": "2504", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "COCKFIGHTING.\\n283\\nequalize their bulk. Then the poor proud pugilists\\nwere set at each other, amid a yell of encouraging\\nshouts, which dazed the novices and made them an\\neasy prey to the older birds, who had already tasted\\nblood, and been often caressed by their happy owners.\\nWhat mean pitiful pastime this cock-fighting is\\nOnly the more brutalized of the birds have their heart\\nin it, beyond a certain point. When one stately\\nwarrior, having lost an eye. and got half choked with\\nits own gore, lowers its head, quails, groans, and\\nflies in pain and terror before its antagonist, the\\nlatter, left to its own instincts, is disposed to throw\\ndown the sword, and sign a truce. At least, I hope\\nthe common barnyard bantam, undebauched by\\nhuman applause, has so much of chivalry in its\\nnature. But here such conduct was unacceptable.\\nThe bedraggled, bleeding victim had to be pursued,\\novertaken, wounded again and again, bereft of its\\nother eye, stabbed in the throat, and worried slowly\\ninto insensibility. Even this did not suffice. When\\nat length the poor creature had rolled on to its back,\\nand lay with its feet in the air, laboriously sobbing in\\nits death agony, the conqueror must needs perch on\\nthe dying body, peck it finally and completely to\\ndeath, and hoarsely crow forth its conceit.\\nOnly one of the five mains on the programme\\ngave me any pleasure. The birds in this case were\\nsuperb fellows. They carried their heads high,\\nswaggered like Alsatians, shook their gay plumage,\\nand were no sooner introduced than they crowed in\\neach other s faces with a loud bluster of challenge\\nthat brought roars of applause upon them. A rare", "height": "3760", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "28 4\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ntussle prophesied every one, from the marquis\\ndownwards. In fact, however, when the warriors\\nwere released from their owners warm hands, and\\nset on their own legs, they viewed their responsi-\\nbilities in another light. Instead of leaping straight\\nat each other s throats, each went smartly to the\\nright about face, and began to run round the arena\\nin flight. When, in their scamper, they met, simul-\\ntaneously they turned again, and continued their\\nflight. Their running was beyond praise they had\\nsuch long, strong legs But fight they would not,\\nfor all the maledictions of their backers, or the in-\\nsidious cajolements of their masters. So that, after\\na while, all Santa Cruz joined in a shout of con-\\ntumel} and the cocks that were willing to race but\\nnot to fight were caught by the tails, and thrown out\\nof the ring, as cravens unworthy of further notice.\\nDon Pedro, among others, went red in the face over\\nthis humiliating scene. Nor would he believe that I\\ndid not mock him and the national pastime when I\\nvowed it was the best fight of all, and the only one\\nfit to be seen by a man of humane impulses and\\nsensibility.\\nDon Pedro vaunted the English origin of the game-\\ncocks of the town. He also flouted in the faces of\\nhis Spanish guests at the dinner-table that his\\ncutlery, rum, plates, tumblers, and much of the\\ntinned meats he gave us hailed equally from\\nEngland. Moreover, every little vent a in Palma, as in\\nTenerife, has its row of beer bottles from Burton or\\nEdinburgh. But this anomalous dependence upon\\nour island was complete when we came to be offered", "height": "3732", "width": "2480", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "WINE AND TOBACCO.\\n285\\nEnglish cigars in a country that has close and con-\\nstant intercourse with Havana. Palma herself,\\nindeed, grows fair tobacco. It is the one absorbing\\ndesire of certain of her planters to get their produce\\ntried in London. Yet I do not think they would\\nprofit by the fulfilment of their wish in this respect.\\nTheir prices are certainly cheap but strong cigars\\nwith an aroma that brings tears into the eyes are\\ndear even at but three to four shillings per hundred.\\nWe tested several growths of local excellence, and\\ndissatisfaction generally ensued.\\nIt is the same with the wines of the country.\\nThere are as many different qualities as parishes.\\nIn one village we were discomfited by a juice as sweet\\nas the wine of Samos in the next by a strong liquor\\nthat stopped the breath; and in the next by a wine\\nthat even the famous resinata of Greece can-\\nnot match for nastiness. Perhaps improved pro-\\ncesses will change both wine and tobacco for the\\nbetter.\\nIt is much to the credit of Palma that it rears no\\nnoxious animals. To be sure, fleas abound wherever\\nthere are human beings, the lower classes are in-\\nfested with lice, and in summer there is no lack of\\nmosquitoes. Moreover, the prickly pear and eu-\\nphorbia bushes which mass the rocky slopes are\\nlinked together by the tough intricate webbing of\\nlarge spotted brown or black spiders. But these\\nfeeble vermin are of small account.\\nThe island is reputed to contain an indigenous bat,\\nbut naturalists are not, I believe, quite sure about\\nthis. Thanks to the abundant pasture of the eu-", "height": "3744", "width": "2180", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "286\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nphorbia, there is also an extraordinary number of\\nweevils here. We found them now and then in the\\nvery hard bread of the hotel but as Don Pedro only\\nlaughed pleasantly while taking them between his\\nfinger and thumb, and the other guests were not\\naghast, the weevil in Palma is no doubt a dainty\\nfeeder, and by his presence stamps the food he\\nfavours with the hallmark of quality.\\nBut the locust claims mention, if only for the\\nsuggestion of doom that accompanies him as he hops,\\nchirping, in the sunlight. About once in a century,\\nthese insects come in desolating hordes. In 1812,\\nfor instance, they lay in parts of Fuerteventura to a\\ndepth of four feet. Then the Canarians take prompt\\nmeasures. The military are ordered out to dig\\ntrenches all over the land to shovel the locusts into\\nthese pits, and cover them up for their extinction.\\nBut such trivial opposition seldom saves the islands\\nfrom total ravagement for the year. If, by burning\\nand burying the bodies, they may avert the pesti-\\nlence that is apt to ensue upon a dearth of food, and\\nthe stench of the decaying layers of insects upon the\\nsea shore, this is as much as can be expected.\\nHappily for Palma, however, it is somewhat pro-\\ntected from this scourge by the intermediate islands\\nof Grand Canary and Tenerife.\\nIndeed, the shadow of Tenerife is, and always has\\nbeen, a potent factor in the routine of life in Palma.\\nAccording to a legend, the Caldera of the one island\\nand the Peak of the other are as closely related as a\\nsword to its scabbard. For, long ago, it is said, a\\ndiabolical storm raged in Palma, and, in the course", "height": "3744", "width": "2464", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "THE PEAK FROM PALMA.\\n287\\nof it, a mass of rock five thousand feet deep was torn\\nfrom the mountains, and whisked over the waters to\\nTenerife. Here it righted itself upon some high ground;\\nand it is now known as the Peak. The fable gives an\\nidea of the stupendous hole of the Caldera. To the\\npeople of Palma, the Peak acts in some sort as a\\nweather guide. Like the ancients, who supposed that\\nit linked the heavens to the earth, perhaps they are\\nwont to think of it with an exaggerated respect. To\\nclimb it was to be heroic indeed, in their esteem.\\nIn fact, from Palma it has a look of profound majesty\\nwhether at dawn or sunset, with a lingering ruddy\\nlight upon its cone or at noon, when the clouds lie\\nthick along its flanks, and only its head caresses the\\nblue. But, day by day, during our sojourn in Palma,\\nthe hot April sun melted the snow from inimitable\\nTeide, as Viana calls it, so that when, after long\\ndelay, we once more went aboard the detested\\nschooner, the mountain was changed from white\\nto black, with only a delicate pencilling where the\\nsnow still lay in the ravines of inky lava down its\\nsides.", "height": "3744", "width": "2176", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVII.\\nPreparations for a tour round Palma Barranco de Galga A\\nred land\u00e2\u0080\u0094 San Andres Los Sauces\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Its merry mill\\nBarrancos de Herradura, Gallegos, and Peleos Awful\\nroads A beautiful country We lose our way The timid\\nshepherd boys A fairy fog The kindly proprietress and\\nher hospitality Tricias Its elevation Primitive quarters\\nA mill by cow-power\u00e2\u0080\u0094 More barrancas\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Bad water\\nCandelaria Its ancient church A gracious noonday rest\\nOn the Caldera edge Indescribable panorama The\\nCaldera Its colours and immensity The Pico de Bejanao\\nVolcanoes and lava flows.\\nWe stewed for a week in the town of Santa Cruz\\nof Palma, getting daily more limp and indisposed\\nfor exertion of any kind. Then, with an effort, we\\ndecided to throw off the inertia that gained so fast\\nupon us, by a methodical tour in and round the\\nisland. Forgetting where we were, we proposed\\nat first to walk; but Don Pedro s impertinent laughter\\nat such a notion changed our pedestrian into an\\nequestrian tour. During two days we discussed\\nthe essential preparations studied maps with the\\nMarquis de Guisla, cross-examined men with horses,\\nasses, or mules to let and wondered whether the\\ncountry fleas and smells could rival those of our\\ntown hotel. Don Pedro confessed to the smells, and", "height": "3744", "width": "2472", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "PALMA BARRANCOS.\\n289\\nto relieve us he periodically burnt certain herbs and\\nmesses in our room, which exhaled a brief fragrance,\\nbut were no match for their antagonists. But he\\nsaid the fleas were trivial, and that we should meet\\nwith more in the villages than we had an idea of.\\nA mule and a lean white mare were therefore\\nbrought to the portico one bright morning late in\\nApril and, having provisioned ourselves with eggs\\nand bread, cheese and wine, we clattered away to\\nthe north for the first of the many barrancos we were\\nto cross in the next four days. I need not again\\ndescribe the glorious outlook from the capital on a\\nsunny morning. The scene seldom varied. The\\nPeak over the blue water was but more or less dis-\\ntinct; the wooded escarpments behind the town were\\nalways green against the pale blue sky, that seemed\\nalready veiled by a foreboding of the thick clouds\\nwhich in an hour or two were sure to blow up round\\nthe mountain peaks, and slowly descend until they\\nhung about two thousand feet from the sea level.\\nSuch were the routine scenic effects of Santa Cruz\\nsoon after dawn.\\nOur day s march was not destined to be extensive\\nin direct mileage. We were to sleep at Los Sauces,\\nfifteen miles distant. But direct distance in these\\nislands gives no idea of the actual toil. We crossed\\nnine barrancos of size on the way one, the\\nbarranco de Galga, about eight miles from Santa\\nCruz, being really a compound or involution of\\nbarrancos the main rift broken into pinnacles and\\nridges which had to be passed independently. The\\nmagnitude of this typical cleft may perhaps be better\\n20", "height": "3720", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "2go\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nunderstood when I say that it proceeds from the\\nsummits of some of the highest of Palma s mountains,\\nwhere they are not more than seven or eight miles from\\nthe sea. Before beginning our descent into the\\nbarranco de Galga, we stood on its turfy edge in\\nthe zone of heaths, and almost on the fringe of the\\npines; but we descended to the Atlantic level, and in\\nthe hot contracted channels sweated amid new\\nsurroundings of darting lizards, prickly pear, and\\neuphorbia.\\nThe road throughout our tour was on the whole\\nbad. In places, it was indescribably bad. This is in\\npart due to the hard lava surface, and in part to the\\nneglect of the authorities, who spend thousands\\nof pounds on two or three miles of first-class\\nroad on the skirts of the capital, but are reckless\\nof the maintenance, still less improvement, of the\\nremote tracks which are locally known as high-\\nroads. For use on the high roads between one village\\nand another, the peasant always carries his lanza,\\na long wooden pole, spiked at the end and, indeed,\\nhe needs it.\\nWe breakfasted at a miserable little wine-shop set\\non a nude hill slope. Here they used stones for\\nweights, in sellingthe men their gqfio. I ought to\\nsay that in Palma a man has to be hired with his\\nbeast. We therefore had two guides, because two\\nanimals. The men ate figs, sugar with their gqfio,\\nbiscuits, and any small indiscriminate luxury among\\nthe wine-shop store which chanced to please them.\\nThey hoped we would pay for it all. We did so on this\\noccasion, but not until we had made them blanch", "height": "3708", "width": "2528", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "A FRUITFUL HEN.\\n291\\nthrough their brownness by assuring the wine-shop\\nkeeper that their indulgences were their own affair.\\nThen, for three melting hours, we climbed and\\ndescended among some picturesque red hills, with a\\nsoil good for lupins, but otherwise uninteresting.\\nWe got up to the chestnuts, then fell quickly to aloes\\nand palms. Shade there was none, and the men a-foot\\nstreamed with moisture. Even the animals lagged,\\nand had to be baited forward with bunches of young\\nbarley, unceremoniously plucked from the adjacent\\nfields. The lizards ran about underneath us by\\nscores. Once my mule bit at a fine thistle, and\\nalmost swallowed the large bee that was upon it.\\nThis sensation made the poor fellow go smartly for\\nseveral minutes.\\nAt noon we halted by the village of S. Juan,\\nwhich does not appear on Berthelot s map. The\\nfountain here was notable for its abundance, and the\\nbeautiful drapery of red geraniums, nasturtiums,\\ncacti, and a red-berried shrub which hung down from\\nthe wall of rock above it. We ate by it, in the cool\\nof its waters, with the villagers looking down upon\\nus. The dress of the people was simple, home-\\nspun being the basis of the women s clothes, while\\nthe men wore as little of anything as they could.\\nSome prolific orange trees near tempted us to try\\nand negotiate a purchase but when the proprietor\\nheard of our needs, he generously sent us pro-\\nvision as a present. One curiosity of S. Juan must\\nnot be forgotten. On our way out of the village, we\\nsaw an old lady holding a hen by a string tied to its\\nleg. This hen was attended by thirty-six chickens,", "height": "3724", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "292\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nall her own and she still had energy enough left in\\nher to struggle mightily with the string that kept her\\naloof from her children.\\nAt five o clock we entered the village of San Andres,\\nbetween Los Sauces and the coast. This place, with\\nits ancient church, was founded in 1614 by Captain\\nDon Juan de Guisla Vandewalle, an ancestor of the\\nMarquis de Guisla. The church stands in its dis-\\nhevelled little Plaza. It is remarkable for nothing\\nexcept its melodramatic paintings, its altar, dated\\n1694, and an antique wooden ceiling. The sacristan\\nshowed us everything, even to the cura s mildewed\\nboots and socks, which he kept in the vestry, along-\\nside the holy vessels.\\nSan Andres and Los Sauces are now a single town,\\nof which the former is the lower part. The district\\nis famous for its waters, its fertility, and its sweet\\nbracing air. If Palma must have a sanatorium, it\\nmay be built at Los Sauces, the upper part of which\\nis over a thousand feet above the sea. Sundry large\\nhandsome houses, and fincas, with gardens attached,\\ngive a degree of splendour to the outskirts of the\\ntown, which is belied by its rough bare interior. One\\nextensive old monastic establishment, as solid as a\\ncitadel, has a superb perch; and the Plaza boasts an\\nItalian garden of palms, orange trees, and a multi-\\ntude of shrubs and flowers interspersed with statuary.\\nBut this garden has for long known no gardener, and\\nits graces struggle with and strangle each other.\\nThere is no inn at Los Sauces, but we carried a\\nletter to a certain proprietor, who made us comfort-\\nable. I know not how many local tatterdemalions", "height": "3696", "width": "2536", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "LOS SA UCES.\\n293\\nfollowed its, in wonder, to this gentleman s door\\nand while we stayed with him we had no privacy the\\nAlcalde, or this or that friend of our host, or the\\nmuleteers came to see us eat, and strolled about in\\nthe drawing-room which had been turned into our\\nbedchamber, quite careless of the chairs which, in the\\nlatter case, had to be pushed from the door ere we\\nallowed our cage to be forced. Our host, good man,\\ncould not understand how we longed for rest after\\nour fatigue in the sun. Before dinner, he led us\\na-foot nearly two miles into the mountains, that we\\nmight see ere sunset the best thing in Los Sauces.\\nThis treasure was only a watermill but so strong a\\nstream straight from the Caldera, is, to a native, worth\\nseeing. The mill was merrily grinding gofio for\\nthe housewives, who no sooner got their measures\\nthan they hurried home to eat it ere the aroma fled.\\nPotatoes and barley were abundant in the Los Sauces\\ndistrict but our host bewailed the scarcity of money.\\nEveryone had enough to eat this he acknowledged\\nbut, since the decay of the cochineal industry, save a\\nlittle wine to Cuba and England, there was no lucra-\\ntive export left to them.\\nPunctually at five o clock the next morning, our\\nchief muleteer awoke us. From pur windows the\\nCaldera summits, only four or five miles distant,\\nwere then a clear crimson. But we had a very long\\nday s work before us, and could give no time to the\\nexclusive enjoyment of natural beauties. Everyone,\\nexcept ourselves, said it was preposterous to think of\\ntrying to reach Garafia between sunrise and sunset.\\nTrusting to our maps, however, we said it must be", "height": "3756", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "294\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ndone and then, with shrugs of the shoulder, Ave\\nMarias and Carambas the Alcade agreed with our\\nhost that the thing was certainly possible, though\\ndifficult.\\nThus, half an hour after dawn, we plunged into the\\nfirst of the twelve bavrancos which were to give in-\\ndividuality to the day the barranco de Herradura\\n(Horse-shoe), a yawning abyss that began almost at\\nthe door of our friend s house. On the other side of\\nit, we trotted cheerfully through many acres of rich\\narable land, grain, jewelled with red and yellow\\npoppies, and fields of lupins. We then rose to a\\nplateau of crimsoned soil, equally fertile, past the\\nvillage of Barlovento, studded with eccentric wind-\\nmills, and famous in Palma for the lighthouse which\\nguards this, its north-eastern extremity. We\\nascended until we were among the heaths, with the\\npines of the mountains, cloud-swept by this time,\\nclose to us on the left. Then, as the northern coun-\\ntry of the island appeared below us in broad slopes to-\\nwards a rocky surf-beaten shore, we were able to guess\\nat the obstacles before us. Barranco after barranco\\nto the horizon From the edge of these superb gullies,\\nwe looked down precipitous sides eight hundred and\\na thousand feet deep, and. wondered how they were\\nto be passed. In fact, the paths were not free from\\ndanger. They were cut in sharp zigzags down the face\\nof the brown cliffs, and, where it seemed easier to do so,\\npine trunks had been bored into the rock, set parallel\\nto each other, loosely covered with furze and dirt,\\nthus composing a hanging road, three or four feet\\nwide, to fall through or over which were a method of", "height": "3736", "width": "2480", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "BREAKFAST IN A RA VINE.\\n295\\nctying as certain as it were simple Even the mule\\ndid not think highly of such engineering. He had\\nto be lugged carefully by the man ahead, and pushed\\nand coaxed behind. The trunks of the road were in\\nplaces rotten, and once the animal put his foot through\\nthe track.\\nBut though so laborious, these barrancos (and\\nespecially the barrancos de Gallegos and Peleos)\\nwere so grand that they stilled our groaning. In\\ntheir upper parts, the woods were thick we could see\\nand hear thin cascades falling into their deep beds\\nthrough brakes of creepers and, now and again, the\\nclouds which hurtled about their heads lifted to show\\nus huge peaks and pinnacles, startlingly near, with\\nblotches and heaps of snow in the crannies of their\\nsides.\\nOur two places of bivouac this day were both,\\nthough differently, engaging. We breakfasted on some\\ngreensward by the blue stones of a barranco bed,\\nwith walls of rock hung with brambly withes of\\ngreat length up the ravine, and a contracting outlet\\nseawards. About eight hundred feet above us was a\\nlittle black house, the last we should see for hours,\\nsaid the men. Hither, after breakfast, we toiled, to\\nbuy raw eggs at two for three halfpence, and eat\\ncurds and whey, with a few grains of sugar, carefully\\nweighed by the housewife like a precious drug. This\\nwas at 9 a.m. At 2 p.m. we thought we were justi-\\nfied in again calling a halt. What lovely country\\nwe had traversed in the meantime Wholly un-\\ncultivated, if not wholly uncultivable From ridges\\nof turf set with asphodels and Canarian buttercups,", "height": "3756", "width": "2208", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "296\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nwe had climbed to pinnacles of rock crowned by\\ngigantic pine trees, with trunks a yard in diameter,\\nstraight and unbranched for eighty to a hundred feet.\\nNow we were winding through a thicket of laurels and\\ngum-cistus, and now treading softly on a carpet of\\npine-droppings, with an interminable vista of tree\\ntrunks on both sides of us, and in an air as balmy as\\nit was bracing. Thus we got to a small glen, arched\\nby intermingled laurels and pines, and full of the\\nsong of blackbirds. Here was a spring, and by the\\nside of the water we gave ourselves half an hour s\\nrest in the cool shade.\\nFor seven or eight hours we moved briskly forward\\nthrough this broken upland country. Then, when\\nthe light began to mellow across the bright tops of\\nthe pines, the men admitted that they had lost their\\nway. It was no wonder, but somewhat annoying.\\nThey shouted, one after the other, as we went\\ndubiously along, up hills and down hills, hoping some\\nstray shepherd might hear us. In this we were for-\\ntunate for after a time we heard the tinkling of\\ngoatbells, and on a grassy pine-topped conical hill,\\nwe- saw the horned flock and a couple of boys in long-\\nwhite cloaks. The boys were so frightened that\\nthey said Yes, sir, to our every inquiry. Only\\nwhen we had left them, did the bolder of them\\nvolunteer in stentorian voice some sort of advice.\\nThis direction led us up into the mountains again.\\nOn our way we stepped into a local fog, dry and in-\\nnocuous, through which the sun partly pierced, so\\nas to play strange tricks of beauty with our sur-\\nroundings. The gold of the lateral branches of the", "height": "3744", "width": "2500", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "A FRIEND IN NEED.\\n297\\npines was tipped with purple, the rocks flushed\\ncrimson, and the house-leeks, which here covered\\nthem thickly, were like so many amethysts in a\\ngorgeous setting. The very moss under our feet\\nwas dyed prismatically, and thus, for a few brief\\nminutes, we and everything suffered a transfiguration\\nas romantic as it was exquisite.\\nBut help came to us through this fairy glamour,\\nin the form of a rich lady, travelling home from a\\ndistant town, in company with her maid. She was\\na tall graceful woman about thirty, and wore her\\nblack glossy hair in two thick tails which reached to\\nher hips. What objects of interest we were to her!\\nAnd how she invoked the Virgin when she heard the\\ntale of our day s proceedings We had wandered\\nmiles from the right track, and, instead of being on\\nthe skirts of Garafia, we were within half an hour\\nof Tricias, a village much farther towards the west\\nof the island. To Tricias, therefore, we turned, glad\\nif the light would hold until we were within view of\\nits houses. Our lady friend, however, would not let\\nus part with her so abruptly. We were to pause in\\nthe woods, while she and her maid sped to her house\\nbehind an acclivity and then accept what she sent\\nus. This came duly a decanter of wine, plates and\\nnapkins, figs, walnuts, and almonds and while we\\nate and drank, the two kindly souls stood on the hill-\\ntop, and waved their handkerchiefs. The transition\\nfrom despair to mental tranquillity, and such sensual\\nenjoyment as nuts and wine, was too much for our\\nguides. They emptied the decanter, and, after inciting\\nthe animals into a mad-cap gallop, brought us among", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "298\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthe red roofs and squab-shaped cottages of Tricias\\nwith disgraceful hullabaloo. We had covered about\\ntwenty-four miles of country, equal in its configura-\\ntion to at least forty-five of but common irregularity.\\nTricias is only a small village between the more\\nimportant townlets of Garafia and Puntagorda. It\\nstands high, at least 3,000 feet above the sea, and\\noverlooks the broken plain of Puntagorda, with a\\nforest of magnificent pines in the south-west, and\\none bold volcanic hill by the coast, over Puntagorda\\ntown. While the men reconnoitred for a lodging, the\\nlast glory of the sunset seemed to burn this volcano\\ntop its indented crest glowed like fire, while the sea\\nbeyond, and the lower country, was a pale saffron.\\nBut a rush of cold clouds from the Pico de los\\nMuchachos made us shiver in spite of this warm\\npanorama. Tricias is the nearest place in Palma to\\nthis Pico, 7,234 feet high, and the chief mountain\\nof the Caldera. On this, its western side, it falls to\\nthe coast in graduated ridges, pinnacles of varie-\\ngated volcanic rocks, and slopes of shaly debris\\nclumped with pines. It ought to be scalable either\\nfrom Garafia or Tricias. But, save for the view down\\nits precipices into the Caldera, it has little pre-\\neminence over the other edges and needles which\\nform the rim of Palma s supreme natural curiosity.\\nWe had rough but hospitable quarters in Tricias.\\nThe miller of the place received us into his\\nhouse and a small adjacent building, of untrimmed\\nstones inside and out, provided us with a bedroom.\\nTwo trestle beds in this airy chamber gave us the\\ncontent of kings, and, having guided the trembling", "height": "3744", "width": "2432", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "A COLD SNAP.\\n299\\nhands of our nervous hostess in the preparation of\\nsupper, we ate it among the boxes, linen chests,\\nsheepskins, knives, axes, and miscellaneous odds\\nand ends of the family living-room. Splints of pitch\\npine were stuck in the kitchen walls for lights, and\\nthe only water obtainable was brown and stag-\\nnant, from a big elaborate tank outside. Notwith-\\nstanding the fleas, a thermometer at 42 a room\\nstifling with smoke from the kitchen fire, and the\\nwails of our host s baby, we slept soundly in Tricias.\\nBefore starting at 5.30 the next morning, we were\\ntaken to see the mill of Tricias, worked by a couple\\nof cows. It did not interest me hugely but our\\nguide s enthusiasm was extreme. With him the\\nmill was always the measure of the village, and his\\nfirst question to a peasant in an outlying part of the\\ncountry was about the nearest mill and its charac-\\nteristics.\\nWe left Tricias in a driving fog, cold and wet.\\nAll the household were coughing or clearing their\\nthroats, while the land three miles below us was\\nbright and verdant under a southern sun. There\\nis some phthisis up here, said our host but down\\nthere, oh, no. Very soon, however, we in the up-\\nlands had also as much sun as we wanted, and the\\nvineyards in the purpled loam, the fields of poppies\\nand barley, and the pines and heaths round about us\\nput on their full beauty.\\nThis clay s journey along the western side of\\nPalma was monotonous compared to its predecessor.\\nThe barrancos were less formidable than those to\\nthe north the pines disappeared and, as we got", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "3oo\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nnearer to the mouth of the Caldera, the soil thinned,\\nand we found ourselves gradually ascending obliquely\\nto the summit of a long broad back of a mountain\\nwhich fell smoothly below us to the sea. But\\namong the dozen barvancos which we traversed, two\\nor three deserve notice. In the bavranco de Garome,\\nnear Puntagorda, there is a precipitous volcanic\\nrock, the natural cells of which have been appro-\\npriated as residences and storehouses. How these\\nvarious flats were to be attained by their occupiers\\nwe could but surmise for the doors let immediately\\nupon a serious abyss. The bavranco de Tinizara, the\\nnext of importance, boasts of a spring; its waters\\ntrickle down a rock clad with ferns, lichens, and\\nbramble but the supply is not abundant, and it is\\nsoon absorbed by the dry thirsty land below it. This\\nwas in fact the only fountain we passed in fifteen miles.\\nTanks are essential appurtenances to a dwelling be-\\ntween Tricias and Time on the Caldera but the\\ntank water is often fetid. The bavranco de la Cueva\\ngets its name from a spacious cave in its upper part.\\nThe cave is utilised as a house, with a stout wooden\\ndoor, and geranium bushes at its postern. The\\nbavvanco de Jorado is bridged by some serrated\\nrocks the arch below is devoted to a crucifix, and\\nby the crucifix is an old shrine, now inhabited by\\ncommonplace mortals, who climb to their eyrie by a\\nladder. From the blue and brown stones of this\\nbavvanco bed, the cross and the shrine in this\\nnatural tunnel, prominent against the farther sky,\\nstrike the fancy.\\nAbout halfway between. Tricias and Los Llanos,", "height": "3736", "width": "2424", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "CANDELARIA.\\n301\\nour destination, we reached the townlet of Cande-\\nlaria, a place of disappointment. We had postponed\\nbreakfast four hours that we might eat it here. But\\nall the town clubbed together could with difficulty,\\nand after a weary hour of tarrying, give us nothing\\nbut a bowl of eggs, some bread, and insufferable\\nwine. The sacristan of the church, the mayor, and\\na knot of others made a pother about us that was\\nbrutally vexing in our hungry and heated state and\\nuncertain whether we were to fast or be fed, we\\nmoved backwards and forwards between the church\\nand a dull room that had been offered us. Luckily,\\nwe had nuts and figs in our saddle bags for the men\\nhad not scrupled to take and store all the fruit\\nthe good Samaritan lady had sent to us the evening\\nbefore in the forest.\\nThe church of Candelaria is reputed the oldest in\\nthe island, after S. Andres. It was certainly built\\nfor a larger congregation than the dismal little town\\nwhich now surrounds it can muster for its broken\\npavements and rickety chairs. The reredos, too,\\nhas not its equal in Palma for ornateness. The\\nApostles are set in niches upon it, bearing marks of\\ntheir identity. St. Peter of course carries his keys\\nSt. Simon, a long iron saw, in memory of his mar-\\ntyrdom, c. Above these images are paintings,\\ncoarse indeed, but suggestive, But the cruellest\\npicture of all is a great black representation of a\\nwindow, daubed on the northern chancel wall, to\\nmatch a real window on the opposite wall. The ex-\\nterior of the northern porch of this uncouth old\\nchurch is decorated in fresco with a beamed sun", "height": "3740", "width": "2320", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "3\u00c2\u00b0 2\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nand the artist has given the planet nose, eyes, and\\na mouth. The west porch is similarly frescoed\\nwith a rude tower. It was not to be expected that\\nthe sacristan could explain these insignia. They\\nhad been there a long time, he said and that threw\\nthe burden of explanation upon his ancestors.\\nCandelaria s population is 2,308. I am glad to\\nstate it exactly, out of gratitude to the Mayor, who,\\nafter a long consultation with his fellow-citizens,\\nand some sort of an impromptu census, thus gave us\\nthe figures. The district claims to be very poor\\nbut our friends, lay and ecclesiastical, were able to\\nbring twenty-five eggs, hard-boiled, to satisfy the\\nappetite of a couple of men. A sixpence for the\\ngood of the Church almost brought tears of grati-\\ntude into the eyes of the burly sacristan who\\naccepted it. Though hens were plentiful, minted\\nmoney was no doubt very scarce in Candelaria.\\nHence we rode over some grilling rocks in the\\nheat of the day, with a fellow-traveller. He was a\\nlanded proprietor in the district, and civilly went out\\nof his way to take us for an hour s rest to one of his\\nfarms. The tenant was a cobbler, who was anxious\\nto mend our boots when he saw the sorry plight to\\nwhich they were reduced. He admired the magnifi-\\ncence of the ruins, as you or I might admire the\\nParthenon. But though the rest was grateful to us,\\nwe did not stay long among the leather of our friend s\\ntenant s workshop. Allow me to catch a flea for\\nyou said our entertainer, in the midst of conversa-\\ntion. His quick eyes detected the insect on my\\ncoat. It needed no inordinate amount of sensibility", "height": "3736", "width": "2420", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0330.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "APPROACH TO THE C ALDER A.\\n303\\nto realize that many others were about us, though\\ninvisible.\\nAn ascent of another hour s duration brought us\\nat last in sight of the great goal for all travellers\\nin this small Atlantic island. The smooth greyish\\nslope, the summit of which had for long been our\\nhorizon, suddenly ended. We stood upon the\\ncrest of the ridge. Below us was the bavranco de\\nlas Augustias, which puts all other bavrancos to the\\nblush. To the left, through a clear purple light, was\\nthe wonderful Caldera. Beyond the bavranco the\\nlaughing country of Los Llanos sloped to the sea,\\nin a profusion of greenery. And beyond this fertile\\nvillage-dotted plateau was Palma s cordillcva, or\\nmountain backbone, detaching towards the south of\\nthe island into isolated volcanic peaks of brilliant\\ncolours and exquisite symmetry. We had stepped\\nfrom the uninforming conventional soil of the outer\\nslope, upon the inner section of the great cliff, torn\\nasunder by the bavvanco, upon masses of red-brown\\nscoria, and cellular crags still eloquent of the torture\\nwhich once held them molten and plastile. Words\\ncannot describe this extraordinary prospect, which,\\nas a landscape, can have few rivals throughout the\\nlength and breadth of the globe.\\nTo compare the Titanic with the infinitesimal,\\nimagine the Caldera as a pear divested of its pulp,\\nand laid longitudinally on a table. Remove the\\nupper part of the skin of the pear, and then we have\\nin miniature a model of this long-extinct volcano,\\nwith its portly nucleus and narrowing elongated\\nstem, where a river flows out by the bavranco de", "height": "3744", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0331.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "3\u00c2\u00b04\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nlas Augustias into the sea. But the sides of the pear\\nmust be six and seven thousand feet high, soaring\\ninto peaks and edges of every conceivable shape\\nand, precipitous though these environing mountains\\nare, they do not now, like the walls of the pear, bend\\nconcavely towards their base. The pear, too, must\\nbe twelve or thirteen miles from head to stem, and\\nmore than six miles across in its broadest part.\\nIn truth, however, the Caldera baffles pen or\\npencil. Its immensity defies the artist, and a pen\\nmust here be inspired, indeed, to reproduce for others\\nthe effect it strives at. One may tell of its length\\nand breadth, enumerate the mountains that hem it so\\nzealously from the outer world, or even analyze the\\nrocks and pebbles that cumber its terrific bed, and\\nguess at the millenniums which have sped since its\\ndeep fires illumined the precipices that sink into it,\\nthousands of feet, almost perpendicular, from its\\ncircuitous lip. But what, after all, will such dry\\nrecords represent The colours of this great basin\\ncannot be caught. It is impossible to do more than\\nmerely suggest the vivid contrasts between the\\ntremendous walls of rock where they stand in\\nshadow, and where, again, the sun brings forth their\\nbeauty by tracing the crimson, purple, and white\\ncrystalline lines which score them irregularly from\\npeak to base between the sombre trunks of the firs\\nthat have died from old age, untroubled by the\\nwoodman s axe, and the fresh young pines glowing\\nunder the noonday sky with a vigorous intensity of\\nlife between the size of this gap, isolated from the\\nworld, and the stillness of it, broken but rarefy by", "height": "3740", "width": "2440", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0332.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "THE CALDERA.\\n3o5\\nthe echoing crash of an avalanche into its tumul-\\ntuous depths.\\nLong ages ago, the Caldera was probably inacces-\\nsible from above. The mountains then did actually\\nframe it concavely and from the Pico de los\\nMuchachos, now about 7,500 feet above the sea,\\none might have looked fearfully over into this crater,\\nat that time maybe 10,000 feet below, from an\\nedge that positively impended. But, since the ex-\\ntinction of the Caldera, its inner configuration has\\nundergone a vast change. The mountains have\\nfallen in every avalanche that still echoes through\\nthe chasm helps to prove it. Their own elevation\\nhas been reduced, and the bed of the crater raised to\\nits present level, about 2,000 feet above the sea.\\nThus the Caldera has become what it is, little more\\nthan the meeting place of the long slopes of debris\\nthat shoot down into it. Pines and firs clothe the\\nslopes goats browse on them and in the heart of\\nthe pit a farmer has set up his dwelling. In short,\\nbut for the history told by the rocks in the Caldera\\nbed, and the unmistakable marks of fusion in the\\nrifts of the mountain side, one might well doubt its\\nvolcanic origin. 1\\nThe southern side of the Caldera, unlike the\\nnorthern, swells into a single shapely mountain, that\\n1 Leopold von Buch well terms the Caldera the great chim-\\nney or vent for the energy which raised the island above the sea-\\nlevel. Looking down into it from the edge of one of its\\nprecipices, four thousand feet high, he, like the rest of us,\\nexclaims Where can anything so prodigious be found to\\nrival this\\n21", "height": "3732", "width": "2320", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0333.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "306\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nof Bejanao, crag upon crag, until a castellated\\nturret crowns the pile. The outer bulk of Bejanao\\nfalls smoothly towards Los Llanos (the plains),\\njust as the western slopes of Candelaria, Tigarafe,\\nc, rest upon the axis of the Pico de los\\nMuchachos.\\nFrom this Olympian standpoint, we were able to\\ndraw a precise line between the old and the modern\\nvolcanoes of Palma. The Caldera and all the north\\nof the island have suffered volcanic ravages, but they\\nare now at rest. On the southern side of Los\\nLlanos, however, the faint yellow and purpled cones\\nof two or three mountains show the symmetry of\\nvolcanoes recently in action. More than this.\\nFrom depressions in their sides, we can trace broad\\ngray-purple lines of lava trending seawards down\\nthe incline of the land. One stream is that of 1585,\\nwhich is said to have cooked the fish in the sea for a\\ndistance of two miles from the coast. Another, of a\\nlighter colour, makes a bold curved score upon the\\nland, due to the diversion of older outflows, and then\\nmeanders past the red-roofed town of Los Llanos,\\nstopping a little way from the shore. In the midst of\\nthese rivers of ruin are two or three islets, fertile and\\ngreen with fig-trees and grain. Nor are the stereo-\\ntyped cinder hills wanting to Los Llanos. One is a\\nrich maroon colour another green with tobacco-\\nplants a third yellow to its base and a fourth is\\ncarefully terraced into vineyards. Around and be-\\nyond them are the towns of Los Llanos, Argual, El\\nPaso, and Tazacorte, while countless gay villas\\nnestle in the thick foliage of this sunny, prolific land.", "height": "3736", "width": "2432", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0334.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "THE CALDERA STREAM.\\n307\\nAll this wealth is due to the Caldera: the thin white\\nlines which run along the barranco edge, and dive\\ninto the plateau, are aqueducts, carrying its never-\\nceasing waters into the fields and gardens.", "height": "3744", "width": "2320", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0335.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XVIII.\\nLos Llanos Its fonda Curious visitors and fellow guests\\nArgual Paso and the Mayor Paso s school The\\nCaldera, by the barranco Under the Pico de los Mucha-\\nchos The Caldera bed The Cumbrecita Pass Steep\\ncrags Clouds brewing in the Caldera The old and the\\nnew road over the cordillcra The volcano of Tocade\\nWe desert Don Pedro A cruel voyage from Palma.\\nWe descended the walls of the barranco de las Augus-\\ntias by a series of precipitous zigzags cut in the loose\\nand consolidated volcanic ash, white and black, of\\nwhich its lower parts are composed. The river crossed,\\na tiresome corresponding ascent brought us, in about\\ntwo hours from the rim of Time (as our vantage\\npoint is called) to the town of Los Llanos.\\nHere we stayed awhile. Los Llanos is the\\nsecond town in Palma. With its adjacent townlets\\nof Paso, Tazacorte, and Argual, it has a population\\nof about 7,000, who seem to live merrily upon the\\nfruits and gofio which abound on this happy plateau.\\nAt a distance, Los Llanos is a gay town the red\\nroofs contrast brightly with the tufts of palms in their\\nmidst, and the flat, black bell-tower of the church is\\nnot displeasing. But, within, it is dead and still.\\nThe streets are grassy, and the houses are mean.", "height": "3732", "width": "2432", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0336.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "A CURIOUS INN\\nOur beasts brought us to the door of the inn with a\\nclatter that put the place in a tremor of excitement.\\nEven the cura, who was cannily estimating the\\nmerits of a number of game cocks in crates outside a\\ndealer s house, lifted his spectacled nose to see what\\nit meant.\\nLos Llanos has a fonda. That is to say, an\\nenterprising merchant of the town keeps an empty\\nhouse, into which a visitor may be inveigled, and\\nwherein he may be forced to wonder whether he is\\nto feed upon the furniture. The arrangements were\\nin fact eccentric. We had good beds and few fleas\\nbut it was difficult to get anything to eat. Dinner\\nwas nominally at six, yet we did not see the soup\\nuntil half-past seven. Then, indeed, when we had\\ndisturbed the whole neighbourhood with our objur-\\ngations, a fat cook-maid would come flying into the\\nhouse, obscured by savoury steam and the signal\\nhaving gone down the street that the Englishmen\\nwere about to be fed, citizen after citizen dropped in,\\nto watch us, and enjoy themselves. The owner of\\nthe inn, who aspired to sell his wines in London,\\nmade us taste them all and what grievous colics did\\nwe not suffer in our attempts to oblige him Men\\nand women were all anxious to know whether the\\nmethods of life in London agreed in any way with\\nthose of Los Llanos and the young chemist from\\nover the way civilly strangled a fowl under our noses,\\nthat we might see how cleverly such feats were done\\nin his country. The cobblers who visited us gaped\\nat our boots. The very domestics of the place\\nasked to see our arms, to satisfy themselves that we", "height": "3744", "width": "2220", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0337.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "3iQ\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nhad blue blood in our veins. For, in our impatience,\\nwe had condescended to empty wash-basins, and\\nsearch the larder with our own hands and eyes.\\nNevertheless, I recall Los Llanos pleasurably.\\nWhen we were not hungry, or anxious to be off some-\\nwhere, the stillness of the inn was soothing. One\\nnight, however, a waggon-load of peasants and\\nothers was shot into the house for a share of the\\naccommodation. They played cards, with beans for\\ncounters, in the broad ante-room adjoining our bed-\\nchamber and when they were tired of cards all the\\nscore of them lay down on the boards, and serenaded\\nus with snores till break of day. A certain tall red-\\nnosed lady, of questionable habits, also associates\\nherself with this inn. She assumed mediaeval atti-\\ntudes in our presence, and in her wilder moments\\ncould, by stratagem only, be kept out of our bedroom,\\nthough we were washing or lay in bed. To this day\\nit is a problem unsolved whether she was ripe for\\nColney Hatch, or systematically inebriate. It was\\none or the other. And yet she had in her the raw\\nmaterial of a typical Palma woman. She might\\nhave been handsome and imperious, under the\\ncontrol of a reasonable mind.\\nOf course, the Caldera is the chief loadstone of\\nLos Llanos. But in the rich estate of Don Miguel\\nSotomayor, of Argual (a relation of the Marquis de\\nGuisla), we had attractions of another kind, and a\\nsurfeit of agriculture of the highest class. This\\ngentleman (who owns the Caldera) showed us his\\nplantation with pardonable self-satisfaction. Here\\nwas a veritable garden of acclimatization. Enormous", "height": "3744", "width": "2444", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0338.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "SOTOMA YORS ESTA TE. 311\\nchestnut trees were side by side with superb royal\\npalms, their unfoliaged boughs stretching over fields\\nof sugar-cane ripe for the sickle. An ilex stood\\nbetween a banana and an orange-tree. Potatoes and\\ntobacco were in parallel fields. Don Miguel also,\\nthough with the kindest intentions, helped us to new\\nstomach-aches by pressing upon us certain alcoholic\\ndistillations from his various crops. The secret of\\nthe exuberant fertility of this estate lies in the water.\\nTanks, with a fresh strong current through them,\\nabounded and Don Miguel had also erected a\\nluxurious bath-house, which nature had adorned with\\na wreathing of maidenhair ferns, geraniums, and\\nChina roses. Sotomayor s estate is indeed a byeword\\nin Palma for all that is perfect. It is administered\\nin patriarchal fashion. The house precincts are\\napproached by a spacious quadrangular courtyard,\\nthe entrance being shaded by some enormous\\neucalypti. And on three sides of this enclosure are\\nfive or six distinct mansions for different members of\\nthe family, with marble heraldic bearings surmount-\\ning them. The name of Sotomayor appears in the\\nlist ot Spanish conquerors in 1495 it may be, there-\\nfore, that for four centuries the chief inheritors of\\nthe name have lived together in this amiable clan-\\nnishness.\\nAt another time we rode about a thousand feet\\nhigher up the plateau to the town of Paso, to whose\\nMayor we had a letter. His worship received us\\nwith the usual Spanish hospitality. But he had his\\nbusiness to achieve at the same time. Old crones\\nand boisterous younger people bothered him with all", "height": "3756", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0339.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "312\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nsorts of pleas, while we chatted with him in his un-\\npretentious office. Nor could he get his petitioners\\nto leave him, when they found such uncommon sub-\\njects of interest with their municipal father. But\\nhe had private as well as public annoyances. His\\norange trees were a prey to rats, who were wont to\\ntrot up the trunks, and clear out the pulp of as many\\nfine fruit as they had time for. To remedy this, the\\nmayor had clad the stems in sheets of tin, which he\\nhoped would trick the dapper feet of his foes.\\nThe churches of Los Llanos and Paso are not\\ninteresting. In Paso there is an eccentric pulpit of\\npainted wood, and this was hung with common\\npenny engravings of the Holy Family, such as our\\nown Roman image-shops abound with. Paso s\\nschool was more to our taste. The mayor was\\nproud of it, and so was the spruce young school-\\nmaster who presided, under a painting of Alphonso\\nXII., over the seventy-five or eighty scholars of the\\nschool. Education is improving in the Canaries. In\\ni860, out of a population of 237,036, no fewer than\\n206,214 could neither read nor write. Now school-\\nhouses are broadly sown over the land, and the\\nschoolmaster talks glibly of the number of pupils who\\nhave matriculated during his time. And, as in Paso,\\nthe pine-boarded walls of the schoolroom are hung\\nwith placards of moral maxims, in large type, for the\\nincidental profit of the scholars\\nBe true children of the Church, and it will\\nlead you along the road of temporal and eternal\\nhappiness.\\nAfter the Church, nothing deserves so much", "height": "3732", "width": "2440", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0340.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "THE CALDERA FROM LOS LLANOS. 313\\nrespect as your school in which the child is ma-\\ntured and the man is completed.\\nWe visited the Caldera twice from Los Llanos\\nonce by the conventional entrance, following the bed\\nof the river and by the Cumbrecita, a pass on the\\nsouth-eastern side of it. I know not which route is\\nthe more amazing. But the view obtained from the\\nheights over Time, between Candelaria and the\\nbarranco is the most comprehensive and thrilling of\\nthe three.\\nFrom Los Llanos, it is but an hour s ride to the\\ngorge of the Caldera. The scene comes unex-\\npectedly. The barley and rye fields north of Los\\nLlanos suddenly cease we turn a rock-shoulder\\nand the prodigious gap is seen in the distance, with\\nits spherical boundary of mountains. The track\\nfalls rapidly from the hill-side towards the river\\ntoo rapidly, indeed, for the precipice dropping to the\\ngorge is about fifteen hundred feet. And, on the other\\nside, the northern wall of the barranco, where it soars\\ntowards the Pico de los Muchachos, towers from a\\nbase of gray matrix about a thousand feet perpen-\\ndicular.\\nThis entrance cannot be made too soon in the day.\\nAt daybreak, and for the three or four succeeding\\nhours, every purple pinnacle of the Muchachos\\nmountain, every yellow pine on the Caldera spurs,\\nand the rainbow-hues of the gorgeous rocks of the\\ncavity are all preternaturally clear to the eye. The\\nCaldera then seems to be bathed in an atmosphere\\npeculiar to itself. But between nine and ten o clock\\nsnowy wisps of vapour begin to form in the basin.", "height": "3756", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0341.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "3H\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nThey, do not sail over the island from the sea, get\\ntransfixed on the mountain points, and thus descend\\nwithin. The clouds actually generate under our\\neyes, and ascend until they attain an exterior current\\nof air, which either rends them to shreds against\\nthe encircling rocks, or carries them away from the\\nCaldera. But once the clouds have formed, view\\nof the phenomenon as a whole is impossible. With\\nthe drifting of the vapour, the mountain tops may\\nbe temporarily uncovered or concealed but, save on\\nexceptional days, it is said to be rare for the Caldera\\nto clear again until the evening.\\nFrom the southern side, we fell to the river bed\\nand, crossing the water, climbed a steep slope of ash\\nand slag and granitic rocks. By a multitude of de-\\nviations, we at length got to a fountain under the\\nfinal precipice of the Pico de los Muchachos, where\\nit rose sheer above us into the clouds. Here we\\nlunched sublimely, to the music of falling water, and\\nthe occasional boom of an avalanche. In front of\\nus, across the basin, the Pico de Bejanao fought with\\nthe clouds was now obscured later, uncloaked\\nand again hid, save as to its purpled head, which\\nkissed the blue high above all things terrestrial.\\nWith difficulty, I clambered to a remote cavity in\\nthe Muchachos mountain. Here, deep in a fissure,\\nthe matrix was seen rugged and congested as only\\nfused rocks can be. Hence the view into the depths\\nof the Caldera was weird and beautiful. From all\\nsides, save the south-west, verdant spurs thick with\\npines, plunged abruptly down to a common centre,\\nsome three thousand feet below us. This deepest", "height": "3736", "width": "2444", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0342.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "THE C ALDER A BED.\\n315\\ndepth if I may so call it, though small in area, was\\nin sublime disorder. Pillars and blocks, hundreds of\\nfeet in vertical height, jostled each other in the con-\\ntracted space of a few acres. The wreck of the\\navalanche of an hour ago had to accommodate itself\\namong this ruin of the ten thousand avalanches that\\nhad preceded it. But, thanks to the many rills of\\nwater streaming from the mountain sides upon the\\nchaos, and thanks to the fierce sun, which, when\\nvertical, seems able to shine through the clouds of\\nthe Caldera, fallen rocks, crevices, and the new\\nshadowed soil under the rocks, were all mantled\\nwith greenery.\\nA few hundred feet below my perch was the house\\nof the farmer of the Caldera, set on a knoll of turf fit\\nfor an English park. Enormous pines were above\\nand below it wild fig-trees, bracken, and many a\\nflower helped to deck the surroundings of this lonely\\nhouse. And the tinkle of goat-bells contrasted with\\nthe noise of the tumbling rocks. Yet it is not too\\nmuch to say that at any moment a mountain crest\\nmay topple over from the Muchachos ridge, and\\ncrush house and outbuildings as a steam-hammer\\ncracks a common nut.\\nOur third view of the Caldera was by the high\\npass called the Cumbrecita. To revert to my analogy\\nof the hollow pear skin. We had first crossed the\\npear at its stem this was going from Time to Los\\nLlanos by the barranco de las Augustias. Secondly,\\nwe had entered the pear by its stem, proceeded along\\nit, and climbed to the northern side of it where it is\\nbroadest this was marked by our rest under the", "height": "3756", "width": "2188", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0343.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "316 THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncliff of the Muchachos. Now, by the Cumbrecita,\\nwe ascended the plateau east of Los Llanos, and\\nturned sharply to the north between the buttress\\nof Bejanao and the terminal cliffs of the cordillera\\nof Palma, so as to strike the Caldera, or the pear, on\\nthe southern side. Speaking roughly, the Cumbrecita\\nis about 3,000 feet above the sea level. We were\\ntherefore nearly half-way between the pit bottom and\\nthe mountain edges of the Caldera lip.\\nThe day was again serene and clear at the outset.\\nThe volcano de Tocade, south of the plain, enchained\\nattention by its delicate coral and saffron colouring,\\nin contrast with the black river of lava which had\\npoured from a depression in it. The pines fairly\\ndazzled us with the glow of their gold and the stern\\nravines of the cordillera, as we neared them, ennobled\\nthe scene as a whole.\\nBut all too soon the clouds brewed around us we\\nhad barely time to groan over the glorious sunny\\nheat of the crater, and, in a series of apostrophes,\\nexpress our rapturous admiration of the Muchachos\\nrocks in front of us, when everything was obliterated,\\nand we were in the heart of a mass of seething\\nvapour. The arete of the Cumbrecita is grand in\\nthe extreme. The Pico de Bejanao soars from one\\nside of it, and on the other the Pico del Capitan\\nstands sentinel with a perpendicular cliff of at least\\n1,000 feet, and an isolated pinnacle of about 400 feet,\\ncalled the Rock de la Paira, adjoining it. Of this\\nlast, our guide said that it was too steep even for\\ngoats but shepherds have ascended it, two or\\nthree in company, tied with ropes, for the sake of the\\ngood herbage upon it.", "height": "3744", "width": "2428", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0344.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "THE OLD AND THE NEW ROADS. 317\\nBefore the clouds were upon us, we had time to\\nscramble for about a mile along the eastern curve\\nof the Caldera, following an aqueduct, dated 1858,\\nwhich taps a fountain in the side of the Pico del\\nCapitan. Our course was rugged enough, and the\\ndive of the mountain spurs beneath us so abrupt\\nthat the stones we dislodged soon rolled out of sight,\\nwith a noisy rumble that told of their inevitable\\ntrail. But, with the generation of the clouds, the\\nCaldera was blotted out, and we had to recur to\\nmemory for an idea of it, though we were in its\\nmidst. And here, swathed in the dry fog, while we\\nsat with our backs against the pine trunks, our\\nguide would have slept till nightfall if we had per-\\nmitted it.\\nThere are two direct roads between Los Llanos\\nand the capital of Palma. Both have to surmount\\nthe cordillcra which bisects the island. The older\\nroad, known now as such, bends to the south, winds\\nbetween Palma s modern volcanoes, and finally\\nstrikes through the mountains by a pass that is\\ntedious but not very steep. The new road, as\\nit is called, elects to follow a bee-line between the\\ntwo towns. On each side of the cordillera, it con-\\ncedes but little to the sharp rise of the country.\\nThe zigzags to the watershed are nearly as severe as\\nthose of Taganana in Tenerife. From the summit,\\none looks down the western incline, through a noble\\nforest of firs and pines, at the plateau of Los Llanos\\nand Paso, spread with the precision of a map and\\neast, by heaths grown to trees, laurels and chestnuts", "height": "3756", "width": "2212", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0345.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "3i8\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\n(each in their respective zone), to the high ground\\nover Santa Cruz, and the Peak of Tenerife beyond\\nthe sea. It is curious that the line of demarcation\\nbetween the pines and heaths should here be so\\nemphatic. At the same altitude of about 5,000 feet,\\npines alone grow on the western side of the water-\\nshed, and heaths alone on the eastern.\\nOf these two roads, the longer is the more attrac-\\ntive. Twice did we traverse the shorter and steeper\\nroad. Once a loose tongue whispered in Los Llanos\\nthat the mail boat was on the eve of sailing for\\nTenerife. In hot haste, therefore (for our time had\\nrun out), we sped towards Santa Cruz, only to find,\\nupon arrival, that the report was false. For its\\nferns and huge laurels, moss-clad as to their trunks,\\nand for the sweet transition from chestnut woods to\\ngroves of palms, and lanes of tropical flowers per-\\nfumed with tropical odours, this route is worthy\\nof praise.\\nBut the other is much the more varied. By it we\\nwind, at a gentle elevation, through some dainty pine\\nforests, bestrewn with lichened rocks, and balmy\\nwith their own breath and that of the gum cistus\\nbushes which also abound in it. As we ascend to\\nthe volcano of Tocade, the outline of the Caldera\\nbehind gradually defines itself against the sky. We\\ntrace the elongated pear-shape as we had not before\\ntraced it. And, with disinterested feelings, we can\\nadmire hence the pictorial effect of the eddies of\\nwhite cloud which chance to be driving from the sea\\ninto the crater, by the barranco mouth.\\nBut the exceeding beauty of the tints of the vol-", "height": "3740", "width": "2424", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0346.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "THE VOLANCO OF TOCADE. 319\\ncanic ash-slopes round about us draw off attention\\neven from the vanishing Caldera. This district\\nis only a few square miles in area and yet it pro-\\nvides all the choicest features of a great land burnt\\nand torn by subterranean fires and forces. At one\\ntime we are struggling up an ascent of the finest\\npumice, a trial to the eyes, and passing an ochre\\nhillock with sparse yellow pines upon it. Ten\\nminutes later, we have done with the hillock. Before\\nus is a miniature desert of black ash, from which an\\nisolated cliff of gaunt reddish scoriae is protruded,\\nand with natural bombshells scattered over it. The\\nheat of this dark ash is such that, though riding, we\\nsweat hardly less than the men on their feet. But\\na moment s pause, and our faces are dry, so absorp-\\ntive is the warm, invigorating air\\nBy this road, we pass close to the crater of 1585.\\nThe volcano of Tocade itself is so smooth in its\\nmodelling that it seems nothing but a gigantic sand-\\nhill. Its reddish-yellow slopes support hardly a\\nhandful of vegetation some wisps of feeble grass,\\nsome thyme, and mean retama nothing else. A\\nfew red-beaked choughs fly screaming over our\\nheads, as if in disgust with this unproductive desert.\\nThus gradually we reach the water-shed in this\\npart of the island, about one thousand feet lower\\nthan that by the new road. Several narrow ruts\\nin the bright red matrix mark the dividing point.\\nThe descent briskens, and here we are confronted\\nby magnificent aerial effects. We are level with the\\nclouds, and close to them, yet separated from them\\nby a strip of unclouded space. They hang like a", "height": "3756", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0347.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "320\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncolossal fleece, with a menace of suffocation, thick\\nand ponderous. Nevertheless, over the crest of\\nthem (which proves that they are lower than they\\nseem) the Peak of Tenerife is visible, sunny and\\ndivine, framed between its own blue sky and the\\nextraordinary white cumulus, in an incomparable\\nvignette of Nature.\\nHence the descent is more and more rapid, as we\\nenter the laurel woods but three tedious hours\\nhave to pass ere Santa Cruz is within hail.\\nWe were no sooner again settled in the stuffy\\ncapital than the local lethargy overcame us anew.\\nSo that our six last days in the island were devoted\\nto little save eating and drinking, bathing and con-\\njuring a ship to appear. On our return from Los\\nLlanos, we had been compelled, out of respect for\\nour health, to separate from Don Pedro and his\\nlarge wife. The smells of his hotel were really, as\\nwe told him, too paralysing. Besides, the bedroom\\nhe gave us was too public for our English tastes.\\nIt had a couple of windows, opening not upon the\\nair of heaven, but upon an inner passage, which\\nwas a thoroughfare. Thus we were not even to be\\nasphyxiated in comfort. Rude ragamuffins lounged\\nperennially outside these windows from the first\\ncock-crow and the mysteries of our toilet, from the\\ntub in a patent indiarubber bath, to the washing\\nof our teeth, were bared to them, to be discussed\\nlater by all their ragged companions.\\nThis flitting was a cruel blow to Don Pedro, but\\nit could not be avoided. In his conceit at lodging\\nus, he had opened his mind at odd times, and", "height": "3736", "width": "2444", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0348.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "THE RIVAL HOTEL.\\n321\\ndeclared his loftiest ambitions. There was no\\nEnglish vice-consul in Palma; or at best a super-\\nannuated one. What would not he (Don Pedro)\\ngive if he could have the honour of unfurling our\\nflag upon his house-top In short, he nudged us to\\nspeak a good word for him in London. This sly\\nintriguing, however, did not deter him from the\\nimpolitic step of presenting us with a bill conceived\\non purpose for us. And so we parted, not friends.\\nOf the other hotel in Santa Cruz, but few\\nwords need be told. The proprietor was overjoyed\\nat our preference for him. We were the guests of\\nhonour at his table d hote. Such extra luxuries as\\nnew milk and sponge cakes before breakfast, and\\nchocolate late in the evening were genially provided\\nfor us. All our reasonable wishes were laws. And\\nin his elation of heart and gratitude, the good man\\nlet us into the secret recesses of his establishment,\\nwhere he made soap with blue veins in it, and of\\nno ill-smelling ingredients. Here we paid 3s. 4d. a\\nday, and gained flesh every hour. And here, after\\nthree long weeks in Palma, we met the padron\\nor master, of a smack, who purposed sailing for\\nTenerife, as soon as he had had his breakfast. His\\nboat was small but clean and we were welcome\\nto a passage.\\nI will say nothing about an abortive excursion, one\\nhot afternoon, in search of the cave of Mazo* the\\ninscription upon which I have already mentioned.\\nWe had a guide who was drunk, and who felt such\\nastonishment that my friend should object to his\\ntipsy embraces, that he left us in a huff. He was a\\n22", "height": "3740", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0349.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "322\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ngentleman, he said, and he expected to be treated\\nas a gentleman. We wandered for a few hours over\\nthe lava-beds of the south-east of Palma, and returned\\ndefeated. This was an apt prologue to our new night\\nat sea.\\nThe smack sailed gracefully while the day lasted.\\nThe padron even promised to land us that same\\nevening. But the wind lulled dark clouds con-\\ngregated ahead of us when the sun set we were\\nonly half-way between the islands, and all the\\nportents were bad. Then up sprang a gale and\\nthroughout a wild night we had nothing to mitigate\\nour miseries except the hope of day. The dawn\\nbroke, and showed us the land all black and awe-\\nsome, and deep in cloud, save where the surf swelled\\ninto gothic shapes as the sea rushed upon the\\nshore. Impossible said the master, when we\\nurged him to run in and drown us, rather than\\nprolong the elephantine oscillations with which his\\nship indulged us, while he lay off in hesitation.\\nThere was no help for it. In the storm we could\\nnot land at Orotava and so the order was given\\nOn to Santa Cruz. For seven hours more, there-\\nfore, we took our buffetings, while the vessel slowly\\nfought her way round the island, and laboriously\\ntacked into the harbour of the capital.", "height": "3732", "width": "2452", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0350.jp2"}, "351": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XIX.\\nHistorical summary Bethencourt and his successors Dis-\\nputes about the Canaries between Spain and Portugal\\nGenerous native princes Rejon, and the conquest of Grand\\nCanary Las Palmas\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Ascension Day in the cathedral-\\nBones and copes\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Paintings The hospital The English\\nsailor among the Spaniards\u00e2\u0080\u0094 Theatre and markets\\nSpanish justice The harbour Cloudy weather The\\nevening promenade A funeral and burial.\\nGrand Canary is so called because Almighty God\\ncreated it to be the head of the other six Fortu-\\nnate Islands. This is the opinion of the Jesuit\\nSosa and for the last two centuries, Las Palmas,\\nthe capital of Grand Canary, has never ceased to\\nurge its superior claims to be the capital of the\\narchipelago. Even now, in 1887, 1 the contest\\nbetween Santa Cruz and Las Palmas is very keen\\nthe merchants of the two cities are in unequivocal\\nrivalry. We have the shipping, trade there can\\nbe no doubt about that, says Santa Cruz. And\\nwe shall have it with no less assurance, says Las\\nPalmas when our grand new harbour is com-\\n1 And now, in 1888, I daresay the deplorable collision and\\nloss of life in the harbour of Las Palmas will be pressed into\\nservice as a fresh proof of the superiority of the Grand Canary\\ncapital, in drama no less than in prospective commerce.", "height": "3740", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0351.jp2"}, "352": {"fulltext": "324\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npleted. Las Palmas is more energetic than Santa\\nCruz and I fancy it will in the end crush the\\npresent capital even as that superseded Laguna.\\nThe history of Grand Canary, before Spain annexed\\nit, is very creditable to its aboriginal inhabitants.\\nIt is, in fact, so much involved with the European\\nadventurers previous to De Lugo, the conqueror of\\nTenerife and Palma, that a few words of general\\nCanarian history may be given to help forward its\\nelucidation.\\nUntil the year 1402, the various European mariners\\nwho touched in Canarian waters did so with no\\ndefinite idea of conquest. Contrary winds, the need\\nof water, curiosity, and a thirst for slaves, led the\\nfirst Mallorquins, Genoese, French, and Spanish\\nvessels into the island harbours and, their purposes\\nsatisfied, they sailed away. But in 1402 a certain\\nNorman gentleman, Juan de Bethencourt, sold his\\nlands, fitted out a ship, and expatriated himself, with\\nserious designs in his head. He had heard vague\\nreports about the Canaries, and, with but slight\\nattempts to substantiate these rumours, he started\\non his romantic expedition\\nCon gallardos Franceses y Espanoles,\\nDe sojuzgar naciones codiciosos.\\nAt Corunna, the ship narrowly escaped destruction\\nby the Earl of Crawford, and sundry other Scotch\\nand English adventurers. But Bethencourt eluded\\nthese enemies, surmounted the hesitation of certain\\nof his comrades, whose courage failed them at Cadiz,", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0352.jp2"}, "353": {"fulltext": "THE GRATIFIED MONARCH.\\n325\\npaid his respects to the King of Spain, under whose\\npatronage he promptly put himself, and in due time\\nreached Lanzarote, the most north-easterly of the\\nislands. Here he was pacifically received by the\\nking, Guadarfra, who met him attired in a cloak\\nof skins, and wearing a diadem of seashells and\\nBethencourt at once took possession, when the\\nnative potentate had accepted the proferred friend-\\nship and protection of the King of Spain. I cannot\\nbe vassal to anyone, because I was born a lord,\\nsaid Guadarfra but this incidental demur did not\\nprevent the Europeans from portioning out his\\nterritory, and domesticating themselves.\\nThe conquest thus achieved (and indeed nothing\\ncould have been simpler than the acquisition of\\nLanzarote and Fuerteventura), Bethencourt re-\\nturned provisionally to Spain. Henry III. gave\\nhim audience at Seville, and willingly allowed him\\nto do homage for the island that was already his,\\nand for the other six islands which, he doubted not,\\nwere no less easy to acquire,\\nThe good disposition of your mind is proclaimed\\nby your acknowledgment of the rights of my crown,\\nand I am much gratified that you have come to\\nrender homage for these certain islands which I am\\ntold are about two hundred leagues distant, and\\nof which my own subjects have scarcely heard so\\nmuch as a word.\\nThus spake the King, and he gave Bethencourt\\nmoney and men to aid him in the conquest that was\\nyet before him.\\nBut, in the meantime, the gentle-blooded colonists", "height": "3740", "width": "2228", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0353.jp2"}, "354": {"fulltext": "326\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nof Lanzarote had begun to slight the innocent natives\\nwho had welcomed them with such extraordinary\\nbenignity. The chaplains who had accompanied\\nthe expedition made converts, and baptized all who\\nconsented to be baptized. But, to the despoiled\\nGuadarfra, this new religion could not justify or\\natone for the deportation of his own kith and kin\\nto be sold as slaves. What a people are these\\nEuropeans! wailed the hapless ex-monarch. And\\nwhat kind of a religion is theirs, which, while they\\npraise its sanctity, allows them to behave traitrously\\ntowards us, and like tricksters among themselves\\nThey tell us we have an immortal soul, and all pro-\\nceed from one Father but at the same time they\\ndespise us as if we were the vilest of beings they\\nsell us for slaves they treat us as barbarians and\\ninfidels, and forget how greatly we have honoured\\nthem, and that we have never failed in the fulfilment\\nof our agreements with them. Is it not pitiful\\nthat such plaints as these have been the eternal\\noutcome of what we are pleased to call the march of\\ncivilization\\nIn justice to Bethencourt, it must be said that he\\ndid not sanction the malpractices of his friends.\\nWjfien he returned to Lanzarote, he composed\\nmatters, and inaugurated a rule of benevolence and\\nstrength conjoined. Guadarfra was baptized under\\nthe name of Louis and many of the natives were\\nenrolled with the Europeans to help in the subjection\\nof the other islands.\\nFuerteventura, which adjoins Lanzarote, soon fell\\nThence, Bethencourt sailed west to Palma, but,", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0354.jp2"}, "355": {"fulltext": "TRICKS OF WAR.\\n327\\nmeeting with a repulse, he moved towards Gomera\\ninstead, where the natives were at first as gentle\\nand unsuspicious as the Lanzarotes. From Gomera\\nhe passed to Hierro, then famous for its fabulous\\ntree (the Tilo, or Laurus fastens), which supplied\\nall the land with the water distilled from its leaves\\nwater, moreover, which had the power of giving\\nfresh hunger to a sated man. Here the king, with a\\nhundred and eleven of his chief subjects, offered\\nhospitality to Bethencourt, who requited it by selling\\nthe entire hundred and twelve into slavery.\\nThis ended Bethencourt s work in the Canaries.\\nHe withdrew to Lanzarote to arrange the govern-\\nment of his principality. Finally, he again returned\\nto the Continent, to plead in Spain, and before the\\nPope himself, for a bishop to take over the spiritual\\ncontrol of this new fold of Christendom. In this\\nendeavour also he attained his end and then he\\ndied, in 1425, in his own country of Normandy.\\nThe complications and troubles which confuse the\\nhistory of Europe in the Canaries during the ensuing\\nthree quarters of a century would demand a volume\\nfor their narration and analysis. But to us they\\nare not worth such tedious elaboration. Suffice to\\nsay, that neither Hierro nor Gomera was conquered\\nwithout much loss of blood; and that, as time passed,\\nand new warriors came to the archipelago, ousting\\nor inheriting from the earlier conquerors, the puzzle\\nof proprietorship grew as complex as the history of\\nthe islands. Portugal claimed the Canaries by right\\nof purchase from Maciot de Bethencourt, the first\\nBethencourt s degenerate nephew and heir. Spain", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0355.jp2"}, "356": {"fulltext": "328\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nheld to its original suzerainty, and moreover had\\nfresh claim through a Spaniard, De Campos, to\\nwhom, no less than to the Infanta of Portugal,\\nMaciot had disposed of his rights. The Pope,\\nEugene IV., in 1431, adjudicated this difficulty in\\nfavour of Spain though Portugal continued to vex\\nthe islands with expeditions and new claims.\\nDuring these initial land-grabbing forays, Tenerife\\nand Grand Canary were treated with the respect\\nthat proceeds from fear. While Bethencourt was\\nswearing fealty to Henry III., Gadifer, one of his\\ncaptains in Lanzarote, made an attempt upon Grand\\nCanary. This was repulsed. Again, in 1405, Bethen-\\ncourt himself was driven back to his boats by the\\nking, Artemi, when he tried to possess the island\\nde facto as well as de verbo. It was then, according\\nto some historians, that he gave Canary its prenomen\\nof Grand though, according to others, this pre-\\neminence was only due to the surpassing size of its\\ndogs.\\nIn 1420, Prince Henry of Portugal sent an ex-\\npedition against Grand Canary. This the Canarians,\\nwhose vigilance and energy were unceasing,\\neasily discomfited. For the next forty years, they\\nreceived the reward for their bravery by being left\\ngenerally untroubled. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura,\\nbut a few hours sail distant, were, in the interval,\\nbeing thoroughly Europeanized. But, in 1461, the\\nepidemic of invasion again seized the original con-\\nquerors and their descendants. Diego de Herrara,\\nthe inheritor of the Canaries, in 1461, got a footing\\non Grand Canary, by promising not to commit the", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0356.jp2"}, "357": {"fulltext": "THE GENEROUS BARBARIAN.\\n329\\nleast act of hostility, and to establish a perpetual\\npeace with the islanders. He then formally took\\npossession, decamped to his boats, and had the fact\\nof his ownership notified in Europe. Five years\\nlater, another Diego, Diego de Silva, sails to Grand\\nCanary on behalf of his master of Portugal. He is\\nnot permitted to make any definite conquest but\\nnevertheless he enrolls the island among the pos-\\nsessions of the Prince of Portugal. Thus the old\\ndilemma recurs. Spain and Portugal are in new\\nconflict, and a private person, De Herrara, profers\\nhis claim in the teeth of them both, though as a\\nsuzerain indeed of Spain.\\nAn arbitration at Lisbon, in 1470, seems to settle\\nthis dispute in favour of Spain and, immediately\\nafterwards, the Portuguese of De Silva are amal-\\ngamated with the Spaniards of De Herrara for a\\ndefinite and complete conquest of the island. But\\nsuch unions seldom last longer than the echo of the\\nwords which express them. And so we find the\\nPortuguese fighting independently, and getting into\\ntrouble from which they are free to escape as best\\nthey may, unaided. De Silva let himself and his\\nmen be cooped up in a circular walled space, used\\nby the Canarians as a place of punishment and\\nhere, but for the interposition of Guanarteme, the\\nking, they would assuredly have died at the hands\\nof the outraged and angry natives. This monarch\\nvisited the prisoners privately, and when De Silva\\npleaded to be let out, and allowed to leave the\\ncountry, he thus addressed him European, you\\nand your men have of your own free will imprisoned", "height": "3744", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0357.jp2"}, "358": {"fulltext": "33\u00c2\u00b0\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nyourselves in this corral, the place of evil-doers.\\nNone of you can elude the consequences of your\\ntemerity. You have done me grievous wrong, and\\nyet I am willing to forgive you, in the face too of this\\nmultitude, who demand vengeance for your inso-\\nlence. If you were Canarians, I should have con-\\nfidence in you, and would propose a stratagem to\\nsave yourselves from this danger. I would advise\\nyou at once to lay hands on me, to secure me, and\\neven to make as if you would kill me unless my\\nsubjects allow you to withdraw.\\nBefore such nobility of soul, no wonder De Silva\\nfell on his knees, with sobs of gratitude. To\\nthis ruse, he owed his deliverance. But Guanar-\\nteme the king had sacrificed his country to his\\nown generous instincts. His subjects suspected\\nhim he became a Christian and joined his voice\\nwith that of the Europeans in trying to evangelize\\nhis fellow-countrymen. At this conjuncture, Spain\\ndetermined to make the most strenuous efforts, once\\nand for all, to occupy Grand Canary. De Herrara\\nwas by special grant recognized as king over the four\\nislands of Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Hierro, and\\nGomera. His claim to. Grand Canary he surrendered\\nabsolutely. Tenerife and Palma were still uncon-\\nquered.\\nThus it happened that, on Ascension Day of the\\nyear 1478, a troop of between six and seven hundred\\nSpanish soldiery, under a brave captain named\\nRejon, landed on the narrow strip of yellow sands\\nwhich separates Las Palmas from the Isleta at the\\nnorthern extremity of Grand Canary. They were", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0358.jp2"}, "359": {"fulltext": "CONQUEST OF GRAND CANARY.\\n33 1\\naccompanied by an ecclesiastic named Bermudez,\\nwho said mass as soon as the men had made a camp\\non the sands and, weapons in hand, all the men\\njoined their priest in a loud prayer to God to help\\nthem to exterminate the miserable barbarians they\\nB.Hc Mogiiiih\\nBahia de Tat\\nPunta de\\nv lalsleta\\nW (if to. derlct Lit 2\\nIK\\nB.deGuay, lib fW S/ ft\\nPta. de Taimnltd,,, H nit ih\\nPtn r/r in-- Ai ,m _\\nB d, JT 1 (t S^M.n\\na Aliliu A /.M W,\\nBahia dr v\\nTasartico w\\njfflASI PALM AS\\n^Pwta de Maspalomas\\n1 1 r c Bmttall sc.\\ngrand CANARY 72 miles in circumference.\\nwere about to attack. However, six years of in-\\ncessant fighting had to elapse before Spain could\\nsing Te Deum in Canary. In the meantime, Rejon\\nhad been transfixed by a spear (while fighting in\\nGomera) Bermudez had been banished for his pre-\\nsumption by a later leader of the assailants and", "height": "3744", "width": "2256", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0359.jp2"}, "360": {"fulltext": "332\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthousands of men at arms who had done well\\nin the wars of Granada died bruised to death by\\nthe stones and big clubs of these miserable people.\\nThe Canarians showed more valour, more martial\\nstrategy, and very much more of the generosity that\\nought to appertain to Christian men than these\\ndoughty, braggart Castillians. Nor were they so\\ncompletely crushed when the Te Deum was sung\\nthat thereafter they gave their conquerors no anxiety\\nand no care other than that of separating them into\\nbands, for sale as slaves in the Eastern markets.\\nThis was four hundred years ago, and now, in a.d.\\n1887, we find by the site of Rejon s first camp a city\\nof some 20,000 inhabitants, with tall business blocks\\nshading the chief streets, public gardens, clubs,\\nhotels, and a stately cathedral of lava-stone facing\\nthe municipal building across a broad pavement\\nwhich the citizens and their wives adapt for their\\npromenade in the cool of the evening. The early\\nSpaniards christened the embryo capital from the\\nnumber of palm trees in the neighbourhood. The\\npalms still grow among the houses of the town, and\\nclumps of them, fifty and sixty feet high, cap the\\nhillocks and cliffs of the broken upland country\\nwhich lies beyond Las Palmas. Moreover, the\\ncathedral is dedicated to Saint Anna, because, soon\\nafter landing from his ships, Rejon saw the figure of\\na woman, whom he identified as the mother of the\\nVirgin. The vision was an omen of good hence a\\nvow which is now ratified in the Cathedral of Santa\\nAnna. Rejon himself is memoralized in the street\\nRejon. Thus, here, as elsewhere, one may read", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0360.jp2"}, "361": {"fulltext": "ASCENSION DAY.\\n333\\nhistory in stones, and find profitable diversion in\\nmarking how the past and the present are indis-\\nsolubly blended.\\nLike Rejon and his troop, I landed at Las Palmas\\non Ascension morning, after a quiet passage in the\\nnight from Santa Cruz of Tenerife. A drive of three\\nmiles along the sandy peninsula which separates the\\nharbour from the town, brought me into the capital\\nof Grand Canary. When the wind is cross, this\\nloose sand must be as troublesome as that of Pesth.\\nLas Palmas was in a joyous mood on this igth\\nof May. The daily papers were able to report\\nthe happy intelligence that His Majesty the infant\\nKing of Spain has successfully cut his first tooth.\\nAdded to this, was the very grand religious function\\nat the cathedral in an hour or two an epoch in the\\nyear. The citizens questioned each other about it,\\nand were as much interested in its success as a ring\\nof Chicago merchants in the contrivance of a cor-\\nner in pork. Which of the reverend fathers would\\nlead the service Were the boys with the sweetest\\nvoices to take the solos, or were these to be given\\nto careless little urchins, who no more heeded the tone\\nof their throats than the state of their scarlet cas-\\nsocks Would his illustriousness the Bishop attend\\nor was he still confined by a cold to his stately palace\\nof black and white stone, so luxuriously sequestered\\namong groves of palms, orange trees, and oleanders,\\nbut a bullet s cast from the cathedral porch How\\nwould the fair Concepcion look on this bright day,\\nwhile trooping with the other maidens of her convent\\nschool into the cool aisle of the church Would", "height": "3744", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0361.jp2"}, "362": {"fulltext": "334\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nshe be promoted into a bonnet, in honour of the fes-\\ntival Alas it was also but too probable that, under\\nthis sunny sky, she had bloomed so rapidly since the\\nfestival of the Invention (May 3rd), that her smooth\\ncheeks would now be hid by their first coat of\\npowder, permitted by the sisters as an early mark of\\nyoung womanhood.\\nAscension Day was as much to the children of the\\ncity as to the adults and the young men and maidens.\\nWas not the cathedral floor, from the west portal to\\nthe foot of the high altar, where the paschal candle\\nlifted its six yards of wax towards the clerestory\\nwindows was not it all thick with rose-leaves which,\\nwhen the function was over, might be gathered by\\nany that pleased, and taken home ere the episcopal\\nblessing and the smell of the incense had evaporated\\nfrom them\\nIt is by such bonds as these, tender as well as\\nstrong, that the Catholic Church keeps her worship-\\npers in affectionate union with herself. It is a great\\nrelief, and undoubtedly bracing to the spirit, to be\\npurged from sin, and the thought of sin, once a week\\nor once a month. But by these gracious and cheer-\\nful religious galas, the church proves that she is as\\ngenial as she is vigorous and benevolent.\\nThe cathedral was early crowded with a motley\\ncongregation majestic matrons, who fanned them-\\nselves, while they gossipped upon their knees troops\\nof school-girls, those of poor degree in black dresses\\nand quaint bonnets of the poke style, and others\\nin short blue dresses, white sashes, white stockings,\\nhigh-heeled boots, and tall hats of yellow straw, from", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0362.jp2"}, "363": {"fulltext": "THE DEPOSITION OF THE CANDLE. 335\\nwhich their hair hung tailwise upon their backs\\nyoung men, interested in the maidens, stood against\\nthe pillars of the church, with the handles of their\\ncanes in their mouths and here and there a wonder-\\nstruck countryman, whose bare legs and sheepskin\\ncloak made the acolytes laugh unfeignedly in going\\nbetween the altar and the choir.\\nThe musical part of the function which fol-\\nlowed was delicious. Las Palmas is justly proud of\\nits organist. At the elevation of the Host, the tender\\ntremolo of the instrument was ecstatic. And, later,\\nat the conclusion of the ceremony, the organ sent\\nforth a broad joyous peal of thanksgiving that cheered\\nheart and soul, like the bestowal of some solid and\\nsurpassing boon.\\nA curious scene ensued upon the concession of\\nthe episcopal blessing. The wickets connecting the\\naisle with the avenue between the altar and the\\ncoro (in the middle of the building) were thrown\\nopen and a mob of boys and girls and tiny\\nbarelegged children scampered up the altar steps,\\nand fell upon their hands and knees among the rose-\\nleaves. These were scraped into heaps, packed into\\nhandkerchiefs and wrappings, and carried off with\\nglee and chattering.\\nThen a new tumult arose. Priests, acolytes and\\nsome of the laity surrounded the fat paschal candle,\\nsheathed in tin, which had stood in honour to the\\nleft of the altar since Easter week, but was now to\\nbe removed. A ladder was reared against it, to\\nenable a nimble boy to draw from it the five sym-\\nbolical nails. Afterwards, six or seven men joined", "height": "3740", "width": "2348", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0363.jp2"}, "364": {"fulltext": "336\\nTHE CANARY IS LA NDS.\\ntheir strength, and lifted the great candle from its\\nheavy leaden stand. The boys did not scruple to\\nclap their hands with a will when they saw the\\nthing prone upon the marble pavement, like the\\ndead body of a white cylindrical giant and the\\ninfants among the rose-leaves paused to gape at it.\\nFinally, ropes were brought, and planks for a\\ncauseway down the altar steps. The men threw off\\ntheir coats, two or three of the clergy, with beaming\\nfaces, tucked up their sleeves, and the portly candle-\\nstick was taken in tow. At first, all the tugging of\\nall the men and boys could not stir the monster.\\nBut the encouraging shouts of the contractor, and\\nthe united efforts at length shuffled it an inch or\\ntwo. And so, in due time, it was pulled down the\\nincline, and, with a riot that sounded singular\\nin such a place, urged all along the aisle, and out\\nby the northern porch, into a large chamber already\\nfull to overflowing with wooden figures, machinery,\\nand the other paraphernalia of the Church s pro-\\nperties.\\nThe cathedral of Las Palmas contains few anti-\\nquities of general interest. But the bones of Viera,\\nthat model historian, and of the local poet, Cairasco\\nde Figueroa, of whose abilities Cervantes thought\\nvery highly, redeem it from the charge of sterility.\\nIndeed, there are plenty of bones in the well-kept\\nvaults under the altar. I was there shown a neat\\nrow of pigeon-holes, each filled by a bishop, a dean,\\nor a canon and at the end of the white-washed\\nchamber was a sunken recess where a number of\\nprelates and other church dignitaries lay inter-", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0364.jp2"}, "365": {"fulltext": "ART IN LAS PALM AS.\\n337\\nmingled. It seems that fit accommodation is\\nlimited. Hence, the deceased vacate their niches\\naccording to seniority. When a new comer pleads\\nfor a place, his predecessor is relegated pellmell to\\nthe corner. It was noticeable that the skulls of\\nthese ecclesiastics were furnished with sets of teeth\\nworthy of the Guanches themselves. And yet it is\\nimprobable that they, like the Guanches, systema-\\ntically abstained from drinking during a hot dinner\\nnor were they likely to confine their post-prandial\\nlibations to cold water.\\nHere, as in Santa Cruz of Palma, is a wealth of\\ncopes, and other richly-embroidered vestments. And\\nhere again it is said that certain of the vestments\\ncame originally from London, in the time of the\\nReformation. A gold chalice, the gift of Philip IV.,\\nin 1696, is worth admiration; and so is a crimson\\nflag of the conquistador of Grand Canary, be he whom\\nhe may. Sundry trivial relics (knuckle-bones and\\nthe like) of St. Placidus, in a lozenge-shaped\\nreliquary, have a special signification. For it is to\\nthis saint that the Canarians have learnt to pray\\nwhen a plague of locusts comes upon them. A cer-\\ntain modern chalice of gold, weighing 7 lbs. avoir-\\ndupois, is much appreciated by the sacristan of the\\ncathedral and so is the massive silver chandelier\\nthat hangs in the nave. This, the gift of the Bishop\\nXimenez, in the 17th century, weighs about 2\\\\ cwt.,\\nand cost more than \u00c2\u00a3yoo.\\nThe cathedral paintings are few, and of no great\\nmerit. An Annunciation, by I know not whom, is\\nthe most pleasing. But a series of large new can-\\n23", "height": "3744", "width": "2344", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0365.jp2"}, "366": {"fulltext": "338\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nvasses of the crucifixion, by Losada, hung in the\\nnorthern chapels, are much appreciated locally.\\nTheir realism is evidently a new feature here and\\ngreatly it impresses the simple peasants who come\\nand gape and groan beneath them. The face of\\nChrist is uniformly rather weak than sublime.\\nLosada excels in the brutal his red-capped execu-\\ntioner, following Christ and the cross, and carrying\\nhammer and nails, is a bold compound of cruel\\nindifference and the presumption of a jack-in-\\noffice. Again, in the second picture of the series,\\nthe same character is depicted holding Christ by a\\nrope round the waist, and threatening Him with a\\nrod in the right hand. Here the brutality of his\\nexpression is worsened by a diabolical grin that must\\nhave come to the artist from a face with African\\nblood in it. In short, Losada s pictures are remark-\\nable for the mild inanity of the Christ, and the\\nrepulsiveness of the executioner. The latter indeed\\ngives them a Zolaesque character almost too pro-\\nnounced for their surroundings.\\nOne other work of art must be mentioned. This\\nis a huge rough fresco on the south part of the\\nwestern wall. It represents S. Cristobal carrying\\nthe Holy Child through the water, which reaches to\\nhis knees. But the gigantic proportions of the\\npainting (the figure being about twenty feet high),\\nthe club in the saint s hand, and his ferocious ex-\\npression, in spite of the accessories, are all acutely\\nsuggestive of an illustration from an old nursery tale\\nof giants and bloodshed.\\nAfter the cathedral, the hospital of Las Palmas", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0366.jp2"}, "367": {"fulltext": "THE HOSPITAL.\\n339\\ndeserves a visit. It is a comfortable public insti-\\ntution, gay with flowers, brightened by cheerful\\nsisters of mercy, and covered as to its walls with\\nthe portraits of ancient Spaniards. Hundreds of\\nso-called foundlings here spend the first years of\\ntheir life. Formerly, they were hung to door\\nknockers, or slipped into the patios of great houses.\\nThe hospital for expositos has done away with\\nthe excuse for such reckless desertion. And now,\\nday and night, a good sister keeps watch at the\\nrevolving cupboard whereby the babes are passed\\nfrom the street into the establishment without\\nceremony or scandal. The infants are at once\\nbathed, examined, named after the saint of the day,\\nand enrolled with their predecessors. The sister\\nin charge of the department tells me, with a smile\\nof sorrow, that the number of new inmates is so many\\nper week. Of course it is. With such a system\\nin vogue in England, who can doubt that the popu-\\nlation nightmare would be even more terrifying to\\nconscientious Malthusians than it is at present\\nThese hospitals for foundlings were instituted in\\nall the larger towns of the Canaries two centuries\\nago. Stalwart soldiers and sailors were then much\\nin request for the various wars of the kings of\\nSpain. Public morality was secondary to the satis-\\nfaction of State requirements. Now, however, it is\\nvastly different. The islands are even over-popu-\\nlated. Yet, the foundling hospitals are kept open\\nimmorality is encouraged and the innocent have to\\nbear the burdens of the guilty.\\nI found an English sailor in the hospital. He had", "height": "3744", "width": "2348", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0367.jp2"}, "368": {"fulltext": "34o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nbeen put ashore by a passing coaler, and, after some\\nweeks of severe illness, was now convalescing. In\\nthe meantime, he had never opened his mouth for\\nconversational purposes. His faculty of speech had\\ngot diverted into his faculty of observation and he\\nsmartly criticised the management of the hospital.\\nHe complained that the sisters of mercy spent too\\nmuch time in praying in the bedrooms. Three\\nweeks in bed, and never once a wash And, having\\nthus relieved himself, the simple fellow assumed that\\nthe Spaniard forbears to wash because his skin is by\\nnature swarthy, and therefore less likely to betray\\nhim in his uncleanliness. But, whether he would or\\nno, this British tar had gained a friend. We were\\nsitting in the hospital garden, when a lean sickly\\nSpaniard came by, and his cadaverous face lit up with\\na smile at the sight of us. He sat down by the sailor,\\nwho allowed him to fondle his big brown fingers and\\ntatooed wrist as if he were a girl. s We gets on\\nnicely sir, him and me, said my countryman, with\\nan affectionate glance down his red nose at his com-\\npanion. He don t talk English any more than the\\nothers, poor fellow, but he tries to look as if he did,\\nand he s one of the cleanest of them all. I don t know\\nwhat s up with him, but he twists about awful, some-\\ntimes, though he tries to keep it to himself. When\\nI told the sailor that his friend was dying of a cancer,\\nit was affecting to see his change of manner towards\\nthe Spaniard, to mark his rough responsive caresses\\nand sympathetic murmurs. Fancy me being with\\nhim all this time, and not to know that he ex-\\nclaimed, huskily, as if he had a lump in his throat.", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0368.jp2"}, "369": {"fulltext": "COMMERCE IN LAS PALM AS.\\n34i\\nAmong other buildings of credit to Las Palmas, the\\ntheatre, the courts of justice, and the market halls must\\nnot be forgotten. The theatre is an imposing pile that\\nwould take high rank in Paris erected at a cost of\\n\u00c2\u00a316,000, and adapted for about fifteen hundred specta-\\ntors. It has evidently been designed not only to do\\nhonour to present Las Palmas, but to meet the needs\\nof the city when its importance has swelled accord-\\ning to the aspirations of its more enterprising citizens.\\nThe market halls adjoin the theatre, close to the\\nsandy shore, and the spray of the big rollers at times\\nwets both buildings alike. The fish market is a per-\\nfect institution cool, light, airy, and graceful. Be-\\ntween it and the regular produce market may be seen\\ngroups of nondescript merchants, squatting on the\\npavements under an awning. Pedlars here offer for\\nsale crude and home-made crucifixes, the figure of\\nChrist rendered ghastly with bloodstains. The large\\nred bowls and jars which are also abundant, come\\nfrom Atalaya, an inland village long famed for its\\nworkers in clay. The savage-looking little girls, with\\nlarge impudent eyes, who stand by the pots, have\\nbrought them to town on their heads. If they may\\nsell to the value of sixpence, it is enough to\\ncompensate for the labour and their fifteen-mile\\nwalk. In the produce market, one notices the\\nfine oranges. In all the islands, none can compare\\nwith these of Grand Canary. For threepence one\\nmay buy ten of them, large and juicy and sweet.\\nBut here, as in Santa Cruz, the octroi seems hard\\nupon the people. The old woman who brings her\\ngoat into the town to sell its milk pays rather more", "height": "3744", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0369.jp2"}, "370": {"fulltext": "342\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nthan a half-penny a day for the privilege and it\\ncosts her not less than two shillings to offer a pig in\\npublic market.\\nThe courts of justice of Las Palmas occupy an old\\nconventual building, with a church tower attached, in\\na back street. Here is the supreme court of the\\narchipelago (real audicncia) with a pretentious\\nappanage of officials in cocked hats. The attire of\\nthe judges is elegant, and tolerably fitted to the\\nclimate black silk-velvet gowns, with white lace at\\nthe neck and wrists, are its characteristics. As for the\\nexecutive of these courts, it is the same as in Spain.\\nThe litigator has no pleasant time of it. This very\\nday, for example, there was a bankruptcy case which\\nfairly showed the looseness of procedure in commer-\\ncial law. Before failing, the bankrupt had transferred\\nall his property to his sons. As many distinct law-\\nsuits were now in progress for the recovery of this\\nproperty, as there were creditors against the bank-\\nrupt s estate. In England, of course, a general repre-\\nsentative would sue for the entire body of creditors.\\nImagine, therefore, the loss of time, and the expense\\nof this Spanish method, which is so delightfully\\nSpanish that it is likely long to continue.\\nThe weather during the few days I spent in Las\\nPalmas was curious. The same gloom which the\\nclouds of the Peak cast over the valley of Orotava\\ncame daily upon us in Grand Canary, though here it\\nwas not due to the mountains. The trade\\nwinds, now blowing lustily, brought thick banks of\\nvapour with them, which darkened the sea horizon\\neast and south. The combined effect of this gloom", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0370.jp2"}, "371": {"fulltext": "EVENING IN LAS PALM AS.\\n343\\nand the tremendous surf upon the coast was as sug-\\ngestive of storm as the wildest north-easter of Sep-\\ntember in the Hebrides or the Shetlands.\\nIt is to combat these high seas that Las Palmasis\\nso busily pushing forward its harbour works. These,\\nbegun in 1S85, will, when finished, extraordinarily\\nimprove the commercial standing of the town. A\\nbreakwater of nearly a mile in length is designed to\\nrun from the Isleta towards the capital. The enclosed\\narea of water will be of depth and extent enough for\\nthe safe anchorage of a fleet. But the loose sand-\\nhills of the land boundary of this harbour of refuge\\nwill probably be troublesome. These works are in\\nthe hands of an English contractor, so there is no\\ndoubt of their speedy achievement. More than twenty\\nthousand blocks of concrete, averaging about thirty\\ntons bulk each, will be used in the composition of the\\nbreakwater and the artizans employed are numerous\\nenough to form a village under the black volcanic\\ncliffs of the Isleta, where they live. When the har-\\nbour de la Luz is completed, it is believed that Euro-\\npean vessels bound for South Africa, South America,\\nc., will use this as their coaling station, in prefer-\\nence to Santa Cruz of Tenerife, or St. Vincent of the\\nDe Verde Islands. And yet, say the Las Palmas\\nmerchants, Santa Cruz presumes to think she is\\nsuperior to us\\nBut if the heat in the town during the day,\\nnotwithstanding the gale from the sea, is con-\\nsiderable, the cool sweet evening that follows the\\nday is only the more enjoyable therefore. Then the\\nbeauty and fashion of Las Palmas are drawn to the", "height": "3756", "width": "2316", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0371.jp2"}, "372": {"fulltext": "344\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npromenade by the first sound of the regimental band\\nwhich serenades them. Here, again, it is impossible\\nnot to notice the superb carriage of these southern\\ndames. To be sure, it is outrageously theatrical.\\nThe ladies pace up and down the flags in the lamp-\\nlight, with elevated heads, arm in arm, keeping excel-\\nlent time, talking of trifles light as air in loud con-\\nsequential tones, bowing with emphasis to the\u00c2\u00bbgen-\\ntlemen whom they recognize, and turning their pretty\\npainted faces to the right and left, that all the world\\nmay see them. Commonly, a Spanish lady is, it\\nmust be confessed, a little dull. It is the defect of\\nher education, and national customs. She and her\\nhusband are two, not one or perhaps, speaking\\naccurately, he might say but one and a quarter, if he\\nhave but the ordinary amount of respect for his\\nspouse. Thus, circumstances have kept the Spanish\\nlady a stranger to that mundane spirituality which,\\nwhen genuine, is certainly engaging in a high degree.\\nNevertheless, she aspires to be witty and spir-\\nituclle, when she is before the public gaze. And\\nhence the jarring spectacle of winsome faces, pow-\\ndered profusely, distorted in the vain effort to be what\\nthey are not, and casting glances which would be the\\nleers of a wanton if they were not those of a Spaniard.\\nLas Palmas elects to bury its dead at the time\\nwhen the promenade is at its gayest. The distant\\nchanting of priests and boys, and the periodical toll-\\ning of the cathedral bell sounds over the blare of the\\ntrumpets, and the shrill chattering of the women.\\nThen, slowly, the head of a funeral procession appears\\nfrom the street by the Bishop s palace, and passes", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0372.jp2"}, "373": {"fulltext": "A FUNERAL.\\n345\\nbetween the promenade and the cathedral facade.\\nFour laughing acolytes in scarlet, with crucifixes and\\ngilded lamps on staves, come first. The priest with\\nhis book follows, attended on each side by a boy with\\na lamp to illumine his pages. He sings the sombre\\nservice as he stumbles over the uneven stones of the\\nstreet. The body, under a pall, carried by four men,\\nattended by a knot of others to relieve them, comes\\nafter the priest. And then, in long parallel lines, the\\nfriends and relations of the deceased, with lamps\\ninterspersed among them, close the procession.\\nA funeral is not by its nature entertaining. But cus-\\ntom and the church have so arranged it that in Las\\nPalmas the burial of a citizen is even romantic\u00e2\u0080\u0094 at\\nleast, in its initial stage. The priestly dirge, as we\\nslowly pace through the streets of the city, the bob-\\nbing of the gilded lamps, held all awry by the acolytes,\\nthe low exclamations of interest or pity from the\\ngroups of women standing at their open doors to see\\nthe files of mourners, and the cheerful chirp of\\ncrickets when we get beyond the borough, and are\\npassing between clumps of aloes and fields of tall\\nmaize, guided by the funereal lamps and the stars\\nalone all this is calculated to affect a stranger whose\\nheart is not hardened to emotional influences of\\nevery kind.\\nThe heavy lava-stone portal of the cemetery bears\\nthe inscription Do not be deaf to the voice that\\ntells you all is illusion except death. Here all the\\nlamps save two are puffed out by the boys, and most\\nof the mourners return to the city, with fresh cigars\\nbetween their lips. If you would see the end, how-", "height": "3740", "width": "2348", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0373.jp2"}, "374": {"fulltext": "346\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\never, join the ten or twelve others who accompany\\nthe chief mourner within the gates. A man with a\\nsack of lime on his shoulders, and a pipe in his\\nmouth, walking with the arrogance of one proud\\nwithout cause, precedes the coffin, as it is lifted from\\niron staircase to staircase until the particular niche\\nin the high columbarium destined to receive it is\\nattained. It is then set on the ground the lid is\\nremoved and the man empties the lime over the\\ndeceased, methodically spreading and pressing it\\nuntil nothing of the body is visible save the tips of\\nthe small well-shod feet. The sexton keeps his pipe\\nin his mouth while he does his work. The chief\\nmourner, while minutely watching the process\\nattendant upon the burial of his mother, lights a\\ncigarette, and chats with his friends. And the two\\nremaining acolytes grin and play tricks by holding\\ntheir lamps so that grotesque shadows flutter across\\nthe lime man, and the dead woman hid under\\nlime. At length, the latter stands up with an\\ninterrogative grunt. Are you satisfied, Serior\\nPerfectly, replies the chief mourner. The lid is\\nnow replaced, the coffin pushed energetically into\\nits destined groove, and all is over. Twenty-four\\nhours ago, the deceased was alive and well. Twenty-\\nfour hours hence, she will be half cremated. If the\\nSpaniards are expeditious about nothing else, they\\nlose no time in the disposal and dispersal of what\\nremains of their dead.", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0374.jp2"}, "375": {"fulltext": "CHAPTER XX.\\nCharacteristics of Grand Canary The noisy sleeper A sadden\\nidea Pancho and the Andalusian The Caldera de Van-\\ndama Tafira Atalaya Probable pedigree of the dwellers\\nin Atalaya Santa Brigida San Mateo Pancho s relations\\nThe priest and his assistants Across country Ginamar\\nA pretty prospect Telde Troglodytes and aristocrats\\nA brisk ride in the dark S.S. Opobo The last of the\\nPeak.\\nGrand Canary can boast of no living volcano\\nlike the Peak of Tenerife nor has it an extinct\\ncrater to compare with the prodigious Caldera of\\nPalma. But it relies for its individuality on the very\\nbeautiful mountain recesses or sheltered plateaux\\nwhich cluster at the bases of the high peaks in the\\ncentre of the island. There is more water here than\\nin Tenerife hence the brilliant verdure of these\\nElysian nooks their incredible fruitfulness and\\ntheir freshness even under a blazing June sun. The\\ncircular coastline of the island is reft systematically\\nby barrancos, which ought to have streams in their\\ndeep dry beds. But the Canadians know better than\\nto permit any of the supply of their precious springs\\nto How to waste into the salt sea. Tanks and con-\\nduits intervene between the springs and the barvan-", "height": "3736", "width": "2308", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0375.jp2"}, "376": {"fulltext": "34*\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\ncos. and the water, for the conveyance of which\\nnature has arranged with so much foresight, is all\\nturned to useful account.\\nIt is rather by accident than design that I am able\\nto say anything about the interior of this island.\\nSpring was merging into summer, and the ophthalmic\\nglare of the white houses of Las Palmas daily made\\nme long for a homeward-bound ship. One morning,\\nhowever, I found myself afoot for the day at the\\nridiculous hour of half-past four. It was in this wise.\\nI had incautiously permitted the hotel manager to\\nlet the second bed in my double-bedded room to a\\ngentleman, who was not expected to appear until late\\nin the night. My companion proved to be the chief\\nengineer of a Spanish steamer en route from Buenos\\nAyres to Cadiz, a rosy, great-girthed Scotchman,\\nwho lurched into the bedroom, very drunk, at one\\no clock in the morning. His eccentricities of course\\nawoke me, and when he lay in bed (in his clothes)\\nhe snored so that a continuance of sleep was, for me,\\nimpossible. I shouted to him to moderate his\\nspirits but of what use was it trying to arouse a\\nman accustomed to the shrieks and groans of ma-\\nchinery He was as deaf to everything as a dead\\nman. And so, at four o clock, I left him to snore\\nalone, and prowled forth into Las Palmas streets,\\nbent on hiring a horse and a guide, and going\\nstraightway as far in a day as was possible.\\nBy good luck, both horse and guide were found\\nbefore six o clock and thus we started on a\\nlong tour in the prime of the morning. The horse\\nwas an odd Andalusian so tall that his legs", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0376.jp2"}, "377": {"fulltext": "THE CALDERA DE VANDAMA.\\n349\\nseemed to have outgrown his body, and with a\\nmovement like, the jerk of a camel. He was also\\nhideously bony, and had a sore under the saddle\\nwhich would have kept both of us at home, if I had\\nknown of it ere the journey began. In spite of these\\napparent demerits, however, the brave fellow took me\\nforty miles with unflagging pluck, in the fourteen\\nhours between 6 a.m. and 8 p.m. My guide, too,\\nwas not of common mould. An ordinary Canarian\\nwould have shrugged his shoulders at the prospect\\nof the exertion implied in the programme submitted\\nto him. But Pancho, as he was called, was brought\\nforward to me as a lad of spirit, whose energies were\\nrather heightened than depressed by an exceptional\\nundertaking. He had lived through a stormy youth\\nin Havana, been criminally associated with blood-\\nshed, could show five knife marks about his body\\nand was still untamed. They told me I could have\\nno better guide, if I would take him with his pecca-\\ndilloes. Never was there such a babbler as this\\nPancho. Gossip and tales of adventure raced one\\nafter the other from his tongue and withal he was\\nmy very obedient servant.\\nThe Caldera de Vandama was our first aim in the\\nday. This extinct crater lies in the hills about six\\nmiles south-west of Las Palmas. It is approached\\nby the high road to Tafira, a pretty upland village\\nembosomed in palm trees, and connected with the\\ncapital by the San Mateo daily coach. In Tafira,\\nPancho had a scare. We were clambering to its\\nchurch (of which the exterior belies the trivial in-\\nterior), when a man in black, holding a watch in one", "height": "3744", "width": "2336", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0377.jp2"}, "378": {"fulltext": "35o\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nhand, and a rosary in the other, stopped us authori-\\ntatively. London is dead said he, solemnly,\\nwith a roll of the eyes. I was about to ask for\\nparticulars, when he broke forth into a torrent of\\nfilthy abuse some of his expressions being too gross\\nfor Pancho subsequently to reiterate and then\\nstepped aside with a murmur about otro rcloj another\\nwatch The man was a local priest who had\\ngone mad. So affected was the superstitious Pancho\\nby this encounter that he forgot to point out to\\nme the Palm of Tafira, a notable tree about sixty\\nfeet high, and not without a legend attached to its\\nmelodious title.\\nAt Tafira we diverged from the thoroughfare,\\nand struck upon a series of basins of fertile vineland\\nof singular appearance. The soil was a black volcanic\\nsand, still tinctured with sulphur. But how the vines\\nrevelled in it Their greenery was delightful and\\nthe gorgeous hedges of geraniums and. aloes (some\\nwith flowering masts twenty feet high soaring\\nfrom their midst), with here and there a broad\\nstunted umbrella pine, and the bold outline of the\\nolive hills on all sides combined to form a landscape\\nof rare charm. Nor must I forget the scarlet poppies\\namong the vines, and the bushes of yellow retama\\nwhich sweetened the air.\\nWe climbed through these vineyards and by rugged\\nred lanes to a dimple in the outline of one of the\\nhills. Here was a large farmhouse and a few yards\\nfrom its walls the Caldera of Vandama was disclosed.\\nThis is the most perfect crater in the Canaries. It\\nis as smooth a bowl of earth and rocks as nature", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0378.jp2"}, "379": {"fulltext": "ATALAYA.\\n353\\nwell could contrive. Only at one point do the en-\\nvironing hills rise into pre-eminence. Thence, from\\nthe summit, to the little red farm at the bottom of\\nthe Caldera, the distance may be 1,000 feet. In\\nupper diameter, the bowl is perhaps half a mile. I\\ncannot conjecture as to the age of this extinct\\nvolcano. It is certainly as dead as Palma s Caldera\\nthough the jet-black reaches of charred earth upon\\nits sides look as if they had but yesterday been\\nreleased from the flames. Euphorbia, wild vines,\\nnopals, fig trees and brambles grow sparsely upon\\nthe slopes and from the midst of them two brown,\\nwide-nostrilled boys climbed up like cats at the sight\\nof us, and besought Pancho to take me into the farm\\nto taste their mother s wine. For threepence, a full\\ndecanter was offered us the wine was heady, and\\nyet I had trouble to deter my guide from drinking\\nevery drop of it.\\nBy a short cut over the hills, Pancho now took me\\nin less than half an hour to the village of Atalaya, 1\\nwhere the clay pots of the Las Palmas market are\\nmade. Village, however, is a name too complimen-\\ntary for it. Warren were more apt for it is but\\na number of caves in a precipitous, isolated, gritstone\\nrock, falling boldly to a glen with a river bed in it.\\nAtalaya is the Burslem of Grand Canary. Every\\ncave contains the rude appliances tor the manufac-\\nture of the pottery of the country and men, women,\\nand children, clad but lightly, were squatting in the\\nsun at the mouths of their abodes, handling the clay\\nwith speed and dexterity.\\n1 I.e., The Giants Burrow.", "height": "3744", "width": "2308", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0379.jp2"}, "380": {"fulltext": "t\\n35,2 THE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nPancho confirmed the prevalent opinion about the\\npopulace of Atala)^a. They have no morality. They\\nlive like the beasts. The Church does not interfere\\nwith them. From the steep brow of their cliff-home,\\nthey look down at the pretty townlet of Santa\\nBrigida, a mile away, surrounded by fruit trees,\\npalms, and water tanks but the priest of Santa\\nBrigida is nothing to them. Naked urchins were\\nrolling about within sight of their mothers and the\\ngrown girls who left their work to follow, stare, and\\nlaugh at us, had as little clothing as they well could\\nhave had. Even the matrons of the coK5rnuni1*y,\\nbroad dark dames, wore skirts to their nake jggs\\nthat the Lord Chamberlain might have shuddered\\nat. Nor were they all in the strong health of open-\\nair life. Deformities and sores seemed to taint them.\\nTurn round, child, and show your hump, said a\\nmother to one of her luckless offspring, about whose\\nmalformation she was peculiarly proud; and the\\nlittle sufferer held out her hand for quartitos when\\nshe had duly exhibited herself.\\nThis strange settlement is of so old a standing that\\nit is probable its men and women, alone in the\\nisland, perpetuate the blood of the aboriginal Grand\\nCanarians. Sosa, writing in 1678, says of the\\nnatives that they had a knack of making clay vessels\\nwithout a mould, wheel, or any machinery whatever,\\nand that such vessels were in common use in the\\nvillages. Well, Atalaya maintains this reputation.\\nAnd when I had sat for a few minutes by the cave of\\none deft old woman, watching while she took the\\nsoft clay in her hands, briskly separated and", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0380.jp2"}, "381": {"fulltext": "SANTA B RIGID A.\\n353\\nfashioned it, finally in two or three minutes offering\\nme a rude but well-shaped jar, scored with intricate\\nf decorative lines all the unaided work of her fingers\\nand after an interested consideration of the features\\nof the crowd around us, their broad cheekbones,\\nlarge eyes of a lighter hazel than that derived from\\nSpain, and wild free manners I assured myself that\\nhere was aboriginal blood without doubt. Indeed,\\nit is like enough. For the civilized citizens of the\\nadjacent town would as soon marry a negress as an\\nAtalaya woman. The people of Atalaya have co-\\nhabited among themselves from time immemorial.\\nThe descent from this inhabited rock to the town\\nof S a Brigida was tiresome, though short. The\\nhard matrix was wrought into the most defiant of\\nsurfaces so that the Andalusian perspired and\\nfretted until we again reached the high road. Thence,\\nby a charming avenue of tall palms, we soon cantered\\ninto the town, which is more remarkable fo# the\\nbeauty of its valley than for anything archaeological\\nor historical. In the neighbourhood, is the largest\\ntank I have seen in the three islands. It is, in fact,\\na pond, and the profuse vegetation around it shows\\nwhat water will do here.\\nWe left behind us the white tobacco factories and\\nthe church, boldly situated on the edge of a rock, to\\npush on to San Mateo for our breakfast and a rest.\\nThe distance between the two places is barely a\\nleague but the rise is nearly a thousand feet. San\\nMateo is at the foot of the Saucillo mountain (6,639\\nfeet), which contests with the Pico del Pozo de las\\nNieves, about two miles farther south, the supremacy\\n24", "height": "3720", "width": "2276", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0381.jp2"}, "382": {"fulltext": "354\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nof elevation in Grand Canary. Thus, as we advanced\\nup the valley towards San Mateo, its head, these\\nglorious mountain tops were before us, now unveiled,\\nand now again hidden by a drift of cloud. The Sau-\\ncillo is a conspicuously abrupt rock, with an imposing\\nforeground of broken hills and green dome-shaped\\nhillocks. One mountain immediately behind San\\nMateo is noteworthy, and would repay investigation.\\nIt is precisely semi-circular, with a regular depression\\non the summit. As we saw it, with its smooth sides\\ndappled with light and shade, and domineered by the\\ndark cloud-wrapt peaks beyond it, this calderetta\\n(for such it must be) was very picturesque.\\nPancho possessed an aunt and a cousin in San\\nMateo, and as the town has no inn, we went to his\\nrelations. These ladies received us with a half\\ntimorous reserve, that was no doubt due to his repu-\\ntation for escapades. Pancho, on the other hand, was\\nall enthusiasm, and would have kissed his cousin\\nmore than once, had she not coldly set him aside.\\nWith me, however, these good people were most\\nhospitable. The hotel lunch on the Andalusian was\\nsupplemented with what they had in the house and\\nboth the ladies sat with bright eyes to see me\\neat. Pancho forgot himself so far as to wish to join\\nme, but the indignant protest of both his relations\\nreminded him of the proprieties.\\nSan Mateo is but a mean village, about 2,400 feet\\nabove the sea. Its houses are built for a temperate\\nclime, though the aloes and geraniums in the open\\nair testify to the warmth even here. Besides the\\nchurch, it contains no building of interest. We", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0382.jp2"}, "383": {"fulltext": "THE MAIDENS AND THE FLOWERS. 355\\nfound the church, however, in gala dress. The aisle\\nwas cumbered with boughs and heaps of fresh\\nflowers, among which five pretty girls were kneeling\\nor sitting, making wreaths and bouquets. The cum\\nalso was there, alone with the girls and a life-size\\nwooden Virgin, in a blue dress, covered with a white\\ngauze veil, which he lifted reverently, that I might\\nsee her features. May is dedicated to the\\nflowers, he remarked, alluding to the Whit Sunday\\ndecorations then being prepared. Thanks to Pancho,\\nthe priest and his fair assistants welcomed me as\\nthey would not otherwise have welcomed a Protest-\\nant. In a low voice, he explained to the delighted\\nman that as I always enquired for the church when\\nwe passed through a village, and as I had looked\\nsorry when told that Atalaya had no church, there-\\nfore I was Catolico. Neither the priest nor the pretty\\ngirls rejected this argument, and so they were all very\\ncourteous. And the priest, without a thought of the\\nconsequences, asked the prettiest of the girls (whom\\nhe unwisely addressed as such, before her companions\\nto give me a sweet flower, that I might keep her in\\nmind. The girl, who was really beautiful, blushed\\nand smiled, and obeyed her spiritual master though\\nas she and I could not agree as to the sweetest of\\nthe flowers at her disposal, the business was a pro-\\ntracted one. And then, with a devout wish for a\\nprosperous journey, they gave me Good-bye. I\\nagain mounted the horse, and as we moved briskly\\nout of San Mateo, Pancho told me what he thought\\nof priests in general, and the priest of San Mateo in\\nparticular. Unless he exaggerated, I fear the pretti-", "height": "3728", "width": "2268", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0383.jp2"}, "384": {"fulltext": "356\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\nest of the girls in the church has, ere this, been in\\njeopardy.\\nIt was two o clock when we left San Mateo for\\nTelde, near the east coast. I had included Telde in\\nthe programme, without much knowledge of the\\ndifficulties of .the way. But Pancho said we could\\nnot go due east from San Mateo, as I desired the\\nmountains were too rough. We had therefore to\\nreturn to S a Brigida, and take cross lanes for three\\nor four hours through the richest vineyards and most\\nenchanting country I have seen in the Canaries. We\\npassed villas of all kinds built upon green knolls, and\\ncommanding wide views of valleys and hill tops near\\nand distant. Some were painted as gaily as the\\nvegetation and flowers surrounding them. Others\\nagain spoke of solid wealth palatial stone mansions\\nthat could dispense with external decorations.\\nWe were all weary when at length the village of\\nGinamar appeared below us as the forerunner of\\nTelde. Ginamar is a trivial collection of white\\nhouses, built upon lava of no very old date. Indeed,\\nabout a mile past the village, we crossed a lava flow\\nthat had burst from a small volcano hardly more\\nthan a stone s throw from the road. The hills here\\nwere arid and forbidding and the grey stream of\\nonce-molten matter trending down towards the sea,\\nand sufficiently disintegrated to support clumps of\\neuphorbia here and there, was positively cheerful\\ncompared to its surroundings.\\nThis dull landscape, the duller for some rain-\\nclouds and the waning light, was, however, a fit\\nprelude to the delicious spectacle of the plain and", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0384.jp2"}, "385": {"fulltext": "TELDE.\\n357\\ntown of Telde, which appeared from a sharp bend in\\nthe road. We stepped from gloom into a clear soft twi-\\nlight and before us were white houses with steeples,\\nand the semblance of minarets rising, among tall\\npalms, from their midst. The white, compact town\\nwas set in a plain of intense greenness, bisected by a\\nwide river bed of blue stones, and bounded beyond\\nby some conical hills, which, though dim and parched\\nin reality, were now etherialised by the pale golden\\nlight of evening. Is it not fine observed Pancho,\\nwhen we had involuntarily paused for a moment.\\nAh there is no place in the world like Telde for\\nits oranges\\nTelde is the second city in Grand Canary, and\\ncontains about 7,000 inhabitants. Here the careful\\ngenealogist may find blood as blue as the best in\\nSpain. For the settlement was founded, and the\\ndistrict peopled, by a number of noble adventurers,\\nwho joined Pedro de Vera in the completion\\nof the conquest which Rejon actually began. The\\nvillas round the city, and the larger houses in the\\ncity, still bear imposing heraldic devices, some of\\nwhich have survived the stock to which they belonged,\\nthough others have not. And truly during our short\\nride across the stout lava bridge which spans the\\nriver, and past the rich suburban orange groves,\\ncochineal plantations, and gardens fringed with white\\nlilies and scarlet geraniums, it was impossible not to\\nadmire the taste of these early colonists. But\\nothers, besides aristocrats, now people Telde. From\\ntheir holes in the rocks, a number of troglodytic girls\\nwere chirping as lustily as the sparrows in the", "height": "3736", "width": "2268", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0385.jp2"}, "386": {"fulltext": "358\\nTHE CANARY ISLANDS.\\npalm trees on the other side of the road, and rough-\\nlooking women with cigars between their lips met\\nus, squatted on little asses laden with new-cut beans\\nand flowers. Some of the men here wear a garment,\\ntoo, which the blue-blooded are not supposed to love\\na hempen blouse, quaintly edged with black orna-\\nmentation.\\nA short half-hour was all the time we could spare\\nfor Telde in the course of our madcap excursion.\\nBut the town is less attractive than its neighbour-\\nhood. The church of S. Juan has a stone portal of\\ndainty filigree work. More of its features I could not\\nexamine, because a couple of priests were busy con-\\nfessing young girls in both its aisles. The women of\\nTelde are said to be beautiful but where are they\\nnot I was introduced to one young lady, who\\nwas reputed to be muy simpdtico but she sat on the\\nedge of her chair, with her hands folded tight in her\\nlap, and with down-cast eyes, which she only lifted\\nwhen she said, Si, senor to my observations so\\nthat I could judge neither of her head nor her heart.\\nOf the three leagues which separate Telde from\\nLas Palmas, I rode two in the dark. The thorough-\\nfare is of the first class, but of course it is not lighted\\nby lamps. In places it skirts the sea-shore, and here I\\nhad the glow of the white surf for an illumination.\\nIn one part, it is carried through the sea-cliffs by a\\ntunnel about one hundred yards long, with a lamp in\\nthe middle of the tunnel. Elsewhere the shadow of\\noverhanging rocks made the darkness yet more dark.\\nFinally, the lights of the capital appeared, and our\\nlong day came to an end.", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0386.jp2"}, "387": {"fulltext": "THE LAST OF THE PEAK.\\n359\\nOn the following morning the ss. Opobo came into\\nharbour, and dashed my hopes of another scamper\\ninto the interior. Pancho early reported himself at\\nthe hotel, both ready and desirous. However, the\\nmaster of the Andalusian thought the poor animal\\nhad had enough work for two or three days, and\\nhe wisely kept it in the stable.\\nWe steamed from Grand Canary in the night,\\nand, on the ensuing day, from Santa Cruz of Ten-\\nerife. Our farewell to the Peak was a long one\\nhour after hour we watched it from the deck and\\nit was full evening, and eight hours after leaving\\nthe island, ere its rosy cone faded completely out\\nof sight.", "height": "3740", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0387.jp2"}, "388": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0388.jp2"}, "389": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX.\\nThe reader of the foregoing pages may, now that he\\nhas come to the last of them, like to know a few\\ndetails about ways and means of reaching the\\nCanary Islands, and the manner and cost of life in\\nthe archipelago. The following particulars claim,\\ntherefore, to be exclusively practical.\\nCommunication. The boats of at least three Steam-\\nship Companies call regularly at Santa Cruz of\\nTenerife, or Las Palmas of Grand Canary. Of these,\\nthe New Zealand mail steamers (Shaw, Savill, and\\nCo.) make the voyage from Plymouth in less than five\\ndays. They go monthly, and offer a ticket for Canary\\nfor \u00c2\u00a314, or a return ticket for \u00c2\u00a325, available for six\\nmonths. The African Steamship Company s boats\\nply weekly between Liverpool and the West Coast,\\ncalling at the Canaries. These vessels are slow, de-\\nmanding about seven days for the course but the\\nreturn tickets for 15, available for twelve months,\\nwhich this Company offer, are so extraordinarily\\ncheap that something may be forgiven them in the\\nmatter of speed and accommodation. From London,\\nalso, there is a monthly service in the boats of For-", "height": "3744", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0389.jp2"}, "390": {"fulltext": "362\\nAPPENDIX.\\nwood Bros, and Co., who give a single ticket for\\n\u00c2\u00a312, or a return ticket for \u00c2\u00a318. In addition to these\\nEnglish lines, there is direct communication between\\nHamburg, Havre, and Cadiz, by first-class steamers\\nof Germany, France, and Spain.\\nAs for intercommunication between the seven\\nislands of the Canaries, that is not so easy. A correo,\\nor mail smack, goes six times monthly between Tene-\\nrife and Grand Canary weekly between Tenerife and\\nPalma between Tenerife and Gomera and Hierro\\nand between Grand Canary, Fuerteventura, and Lan-\\nzarote. Besides this, there is occasional steam con-\\nnection between the three chief islands, though that\\nbetween Santa Cruz of Tenerife and Las Palmas of\\nGrand Canary can alone be relied upon. Contrary\\nwinds may at any time lengthen the voyage by the\\ncorreo most inordinately, and as victualling is not\\nprovided on board, the passenger s appetite may\\nbecome as rabid as his impatience.\\nAccommodation. Already there are English hotels\\nin Santa Cruz, Orotava, Laguna, and Las Palmas,\\nwhere a man may hear no Spanish, and dine as he\\ndines at home, only, maybe, more luxuriously. At\\nthese hotels the charges are European, ranging from\\nabout 8s. to 14s. a day. The Grand Hotel at Orotava\\nis incomparably the best of them. Here, in early\\nspring, I found about seventy-five English people a\\ncolony quite enough to Anglicize the small town of\\nPuerto. Elsewhere, however, the hotels and ventas of\\nthe country are Spanish to the backbone. In Palma,\\nEnglish is unknown, and so is English cuisine. But\\na dollar (4s.) or even only four pesetas (3s. 4d.) per", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0390.jp2"}, "391": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX.\\n363\\ndiem is, in these native inns, the tariff, instead of the\\n8s. of the English hotels. The Fonda Europa, in Las\\nPalmas, is a good Spanish hotel. Fleas, however, are\\ntoo distinctive an attribute of the native inns. In\\noutlying villages, where there is no venta, or wine\\nshop, with a truckle bed for a stranger, the traveller\\nmust be dependent upon letters or his guide s savoir\\nfaire. x\\nRoads. Except in the vicinity of the capitals,\\nthe roads of the islands are very bad. Bicycles\\nwould serve between Santa Cruz of Tenerife and\\nOrotava, between Santa Cruz and Guimar and, in\\nGrand Canary, for a few leagues, in two or three\\ndirections from Las Palmas but elsewhere not at\\nall. When the authorities finish the Canarian scheme\\nof roads, the islands will be admirably provided. But\\nthe work will be a tedious one.\\nHorses, c. Every one rides in the Canaries. At\\nOrotava, it is possible to get excellent steeds for about\\na dollar a day, or \u00c2\u00a31 weekly. Two or three Spaniards\\nmake a good living by letting their beasts to visitors.\\nThe horses are strong and gentle, and unused to\\nluxurious feeding. In Las Palmas and Santa Cruz,\\nhorses are rarer than in Orotava. In Palma, mules\\nserve instead of horses. In the eastern islands of\\nFuerteventura and Lanzarote, the traveller may hire\\na camel.\\nGuides. For tours round the islands, a guide is\\nnecessary, as much for the roads, as for his help\\n1 In the neighbourhood of Orotava and Las Palmas, and\\nprobably in Palma, with a little trouble, villas and apartments\\nmay be obtained at moderate rental.", "height": "3740", "width": "2252", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0391.jp2"}, "392": {"fulltext": "364\\nAPPENDIX.\\ntowards a bed in the evening. It is usual to pay two\\ndollars a day for each man and each horse used in an\\nascent of the Peak of Tenerife, and the same estimate,\\nor a little less, may hold for other protracted tours.\\nA boy to look after the horse may, however, take\\nthe place of a man for a toston, or a shilling a day\\ninstead of two dollars.\\nLanguage. It is difficult to say how a man would\\ncontrol or associate with his guide, or hold satisfactory\\ncommunion with the native Spaniards, without a\\ncertain knowledge of Spanish. In Palma, such know-\\nledge is essential. I believe there are but two people\\nin that island who could say How do you do\\nIt is equally essential in the country parts of Tenerife\\nand Grand Canary.\\nClimate. On this subject, the Canaries compel\\nsuperlative praise. Our winter and spring are the\\nbest seasons for visiting the islands. In summer,\\nthough the heat is not on the whole excessive (except\\non the south and south-eastern sides of the islands),\\nthe mosquitoes are troublesome. Equability and\\ndryness are the characteristics of the climate. The\\naverage temperature of Puerto in January is 62*2,\\nand in August 77*2 a difference of but 15 On a like\\ncomparison, Pau varies no less than 35*8, and Nice\\n29*9. Again, the mean temperature for the winter\\nmonths at Puerto is 63*8, compared with London\\n41*7, Pau 44*6, Nice 49*6, Rome 51*6, Algiers 58*3,\\nand Madiera 61*7. Even Florida, with its winter\\nmean of 587, is thus inferior to Tenerife. But the\\nextraordinary dryness of the Canaries gives them a\\nvast advantage over most health resorts. The day", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0392.jp2"}, "393": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX.\\n365\\nand night temperature differs but three or four degrees.\\nPaper left exposed to the night air retains its crisp-\\nness as if it were in a heated room; and it is the\\ncustom to sleep with open windows.\\nThe Necessaries for a tour in the Canaries are but\\nfew. Patience, civility, a knowledge of Spanish, a\\ncertain amount of money, and a broad-brimmed straw\\nhat are indispensable. I do not think Keating is\\nmuch use, unless it be taken in bushels: the Canarian\\nfleas (whom, by the by, Peter Pindar memorialized\\nfor their agility) are so active. The Canarians are a\\npeaceful folk. A revolver is therefore useless, except\\nas a work of art, to exhibit for the stupefaction of the\\npeasants.\\nSport. In this particular, the islands are sadly\\ndeficient. Their nature and limited extent, of course,\\naccounts for it. A country that begins and ends its\\ncatalogue of mammiferous animals with the horse,\\nthe ass, or the donkey, and elegant mules as a cross-\\nbreed between the two, must be considered rather\\ntame. In fact, the only food for powder that I know\\nof are the different kinds of birds (many of which do\\nbut hibernate in the Canaries, and return to England\\nand the north in the summer), rabbits, and partridges.\\nLocally, as in the time of the aborigines, ferrets are\\nused for the rabbits. On the south, that is, the hot\\nside of Tenerife, there are many partridges. Rats\\nabound in the islands, and, though they cannot be\\nsaid to offer much sport to the sportsman, they are\\npeculiar in that in times of drought and scarcity\\nthey hunt each other, and eat those of their comrades\\nthey succeed in killing.", "height": "3740", "width": "2260", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0393.jp2"}, "394": {"fulltext": "UNWIN BROTHERS,\\nCHILWORTH AND LONDON.\\n3477-6", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0394.jp2"}, "395": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3720", "width": "2280", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0395.jp2"}, "396": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0396.jp2"}, "397": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3720", "width": "2284", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0397.jp2"}, "398": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3740", "width": "2436", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0398.jp2"}, "399": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3732", "width": "2296", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0399.jp2"}, "400": {"fulltext": "LIBRARY OF CONGRESS\\n020 231 931 2", "height": "3895", "width": "2509", "jp2-path": "ridesstudiesinca00edwa_0_0400.jp2"}}