{"1": {"fulltext": "m.", "height": "3684", "width": "2624", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0001.jp2"}, "2": {"fulltext": "Qas JIft 7(\u00c2\u00bbfo\\nBook TltZ", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0002.jp2"}, "3": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0003.jp2"}, "4": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0004.jp2"}, "5": {"fulltext": "PICTURES IN TYROL\\nAM-\\nAND ELSEWHERE.\\nFROM A FAMILY SKETCH-BOOK\\nBY THE AUTHOR OF\\nA VOYAGE EN ZIGZAG\\nc.\\nDe omnibus rebus et quibvsdam aliis.\\nSECOISTD EXJITIOtT.\\nLONDON\\nLONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.\\n1869.", "height": "3653", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0005.jp2"}, "6": {"fulltext": "a.^ovo^\\nlfB7 k", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0006.jp2"}, "7": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0007.jp2"}, "8": {"fulltext": "HalUtodl", "height": "3703", "width": "2717", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0008.jp2"}, "9": {"fulltext": "PICTURES IN TYROL\\nc.", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0009.jp2"}, "10": {"fulltext": "LONDON: PRINTED BY\\nSPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE\\nAND PARLIAMENT STREET", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0010.jp2"}, "11": {"fulltext": "PKEFACE.\\nI FANY HEADERS may possibly find in these pages\\nsomething to remind them of old holidays, and\\nwanderings of their own amongst the hills, or be led\\nto see for themselves what pleasant hannts are to be\\nfonnd in Tyrol, or what mountains are yet to be scaled,\\nand for such, these histories of very small adventures,\\npictures of busy and i still life, will stir the old sympa-\\nthies and memories that make for many of us so pleasant\\na cordon round the Alps.\\nTwo of the following papers have already appeared in\\na magazine from which they are reprinted by the kind\\npermission of the Editor.\\nThose on the Ortler and Viso districts and the Sulden-\\nthal were originally written for the Alpine Journal, with\\nmany additional topographical and scientific details, which\\nhave been omitted here, and with their present illustra-\\ntions, they are now given to the public in a slightly\\nmore popular form.\\nNovember 1867.", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0011.jp2"}, "12": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0012.jp2"}, "13": {"fulltext": "CONTENTS.\\nCHAP. PAGE\\nI. BREAKING THE ICE, OR MOUNTAINEERING IN AN\\nOMNIBUS 1\\nII. NOTES ON THE PASSAGE OF THE OLE WEISSTHOR, WITH\\nTHE ASCENT OE THE SIGNALKUPPE 53\\nIII. SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND THE ZILLER-\\nTHAL 75\\nIV. A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO .113\\nV. SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA 129\\nVI. A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL 159\\nVII. ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 179\\nVIII. EXCURSIONS AMONG THE ORTLER AND LOMBARD ALPS 217\\nIX. A TALE OF THE ROAD 207\\nX. APPENDIX 301", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0013.jp2"}, "14": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0014.jp2"}, "15": {"fulltext": "LIST\\nILLUSTRATIONS.\\nHallstadt See Frontispiece\\nCharing Cross. Ou est le Havresac A Submarine Telegraph to face p. 4\\nEn Voiture Basle. On the Bridge 6\\nPigs and Peasants. Our Gruard. Sketches from the Train 8\\nThe Amalekite at Ease. Pictures for Sale. At the Pump 10\\nSchaffhausen Falls. The Philistines. Schweizer Hof 11\\nThe Kellnerin. The Landlord, Boiling the Water. Hindelang 1 6\\nAt the Frontier. P titLait. Schattwald 20\\nLermos 24\\nWayside Sketches. N/assereit ,,29\\nTelfs 30\\nThe Chariot Waits Priestly Intercession ,,32\\nSketches from the Eailway. Chateau Fratzburg 43\\nThe Wirthin. The Waidring Kitchen 46\\nA Kace on a Frosty Morning 48\\nSt. Johann 50\\nKeeonnoitring. 5.45 a.m. Veils and Masks 58\\nG-rinding steadily upwards. Otium cum Dignitate 64", "height": "3432", "width": "2386", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0015.jp2"}, "16": {"fulltext": "X\\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.\\nPounding the Snow. Bennen takes to the Rocks\\nThe Last Three Minutes. Science and Shivers\\nDown again Excelsior!\\nThe Watzmann from Berchtesgaden\\nThe Brautfest\\nBerchtesgaden\\nIn the Dairy. Buttercups and Daisies\\nDrying our Clothes. A Rough Road\\nOur Trough. A Bergwagen\\nMusic in the Ziller-Thal.\\nTo the Karlsteg\\nIn the Ziller-Thal. Changing Horses\\nA Mountain Toilette. Strichmacher\\nScience under Difficulties. Costumes for the Night\\n2 a.m. 28-4\u00c2\u00b0 Fahrenheit. 3 a.m. Still Colder\\nCaoutchouc versus Snow. 6 a.m. Science in Despair\\nOur Schlittenpartie\\nOn the Glacier. A Bergwagen\\nExcelsior! In the Snowdrifts\\nLunching on the Spitze\\nHow we came down\\nConjuring in the Stube. A Spy\\nThe Soldiers Force an Entrance. Discovery of Arms\\nThe Women all side with the Prisoners. The Frontier\\nlittle dangerous\\nIschl from the Goldenes Kreuz\\nIschl and the Empress s Villa. In the Meadows\\nEin Seefahrt. Our Rowers\\nHallstadt\\nlooks\\nPAGE\\nto face 65\\n6fi\\n70\\n80\\n85\\n87\\n91\\n96\\n100\\n101\\n104\\n108\\n110\\n124\\n126\\n127\\n141\\n143\\n154\\n155\\n156\\n162\\n166\\n167\\n185\\n191\\n194\\n195", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0016.jp2"}, "17": {"fulltext": "LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.\\nXI\\nThe Konigs-See. The Falls of the Trauii\\nAt Ischl. A Study\\nDie Heilige Jungfrau. A Procession\\nCostumes at the Fest. Guards from the Saltworks\\nKeturning from the Fest. Im Schatten\\nAt the Pump. The Natives see the last of us\\nAlpine Photography. Coming to Grief\\nBuilding a Cairn. A lazy Day at Santa Catarina\\nVal Forno from Santa Catarina\\nDisintegrated Pocks. A warm Welcome from Frau Ortler\\nWatching for the Mountaineers. A Skirmish for Provisions\\nThey descend in Triumph. Great Applause\\nMosquitoes. The Enemy rallies to the Charge\\nCarrying down Lemons. Mentone\\nStanding at Bay. Oneglia. Defying the Military\\nFifteen Miles an Hour\\nAlbergo Eeale. Genoa. On the Koad again\\ntoft\\nPAGE\\ni 201\\n207\\n208\\n209\\n210\\n212\\n230\\n236\\n237\\n242\\n248\\n256\\n280\\n281\\n294\\n297\\n298", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0017.jp2"}, "18": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0018.jp2"}, "19": {"fulltext": "BREAKING THE ICE\\nMOUNTAINEEKING IN AN OMNIBUS.\\nPeregrinations charm our senses with such unspeakable and sweet\\nvariety, that some count him unhappy that never travelled.\\nBrRTON.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0019.jp2"}, "20": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0020.jp2"}, "21": {"fulltext": "BREAKING THE ICE,\\nMOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS.\\nTYfE left England early in May 1866, hoping to escape\\nthe cold winds that still lingered about our English\\nspring, and to find the lower Alps in all their fresh beauty,\\nnever to be so keenly enjoyed as at the moment when the\\nlatest fallen snow seemingly melts away in an hour s sun-\\nshine, and changes, as by a magic touch, into flowers and\\ngreenness. The mornings and evenings are still clear and\\nfrosty, but when the sun is out, the midday warmth makes\\na pleasant atmosphere for travelling comfort and as a\\nrule, in spring, amongst the mountains, you find a climate\\nthat is quite perfect in its adaptation to your needs. Un-\\nfortunately for us, there was something wrong with the\\ncalendar on this particular spring we had chosen the\\nwinter still held everything in a strong grasp, and we\\nhad a hard battle with keen winds and frost before our\\npatience and the cold weather came to an end together.\\nOur party was composed of sufficiently divers elements\\nB", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0021.jp2"}, "22": {"fulltext": "4 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nto afford constant variety under the most dismal circum-\\nstances, so that we were, never reduced to a dead level\\nmentally, and were fully prepared to find plenty of en-\\njoyment from all the mingled delights that Nature and\\nArt, queer costumes, patois, unknown food, springless car-\\nriages, and constant variety promised us, and endless\\namusement from anything of discomfort or misadventure\\nthat would have to be greeted with either groanings or\\nlaughter.\\nA very blessed gift is that same power of appreciating\\nthe ridiculous aspect of every situation; natures, with the\\nlights and shades of their varied characteristics put in in\\ntolerably strong colours, are the pleasant est to do with,\\nand a keen sense of the ludicrous is generally balanced\\nby a sympathy and large-heartedness, none the less true\\nbecause somewhat deep and still. We may value neutral\\ntints in a landscape, but in a life such vague shadows only\\nserve as a foil to richer colouring, and such a use of one s\\nfellow-creatures is too dismal to be encouraged by the\\nmost confirmed misanthrope. There was nothing vague\\nabout our party thoroughly fortunate in our companions,\\nour enjoyment in everything was as keen as possible, and\\nfrom the oldest to the youngest traveller, we set out with\\nthe knowledge that in our journey we were to take, daily\\nand hourly, that step from the 6 sublime to the ridi-\\nculous, which makes travelling such an inexhaustible\\npleasure.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0022.jp2"}, "23": {"fulltext": "Cka-rmg Gross A Family p^hy Mts C *l DAntc*-* }re\u00c2\u00bbn(*a^fbL/r\\nCl3 fTOLVS- ilTlg COTnpJTllOTIi\\nA satrrKXTmi teifcoTctjan. I", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0023.jp2"}, "24": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0024.jp2"}, "25": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 5\\nOur stay in Paris was not to F. a season of uninter-\\nrupted repose. A particularly precious knapsack, carefully\\npacked with especial valuables for the mountains, had\\nbeen registered with the rest of our luggage at Charing\\nCross, and the officials of the Gave du Novel declared it\\nwas not to be found; a second journey. to the station, and\\nyet a third, proved equally fruitless, though there was a\\nrumour that such a knapsack had been seen by some one\\non the pier at Dover, and that, if not appropriated mean-\\nwhile, it might come by the tidal train we had to start\\nfor Basle in faith, trusting that a promised telegram would\\nsomehow bring it after us. The twelve hours to Basle\\nwere less wearying than usual, and we recalled, with\\nthankfulness as to the present, many gloomy memories of\\nheat and dust and discomfort in a long July or August\\nday on the same road. As it was, we read, chatted,\\nand talked, puzzled our brains over acrostics, sketched\\npeople at the railway stations, and consumed a midday\\nmeal at Troyes; after which we all went to sleep, and\\nwoke up gladly to feel ourselves in Switzerland once\\nmore.\\nThroughout our many wanderings we have always\\nbeen fortunate in small things, and found, as we moved\\nover our circumscribed part of the earth, that it never\\ngrated on its axis, and the loss of that knapsack was a\\nterrible blow to our self-conceit and we were brought\\npitiably low by a further discovery, on our arrival at Basle,\\nB 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0025.jp2"}, "26": {"fulltext": "6 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nwhere we took up our quarters at the Black Bear,\\nwishing to get rid of civilisation and the s Trois Eois to-\\ngether, and where we found a pleasant welcome and clean\\nboarded rooms, primitive-looking bedchambers with rather\\nsloping floors, built regardless of architectural laws or\\nsymmetry, each room being made up of angles, and having\\nno two sides alike. However, like Samson s lion, our bear\\ncontained many good things, and we were just sitting\\ndown to an Abendessen of coffee and tea, honey, venison,\\nand trout, when F. entered the salle, and, amidst an\\nominous silence, related disaster number two. He had\\njust inspected his portmanteau, and discovered a case of\\nspontaneous combustion. A large tin filled with vesuvians,\\nintended for his own delectation and that of his friends,\\nhad come to grief; the contents had gone off literally\\nblown themselves up, and words fail to describe the un-\\nutterably nasty state in which everything near them was\\nfound, whether linen or literature.\\nMisfortune seemed to dog our footsteps, and it was\\nwith an effort that we rallied our courage; but, recol-\\nlecting that it was highly reprehensible on F. s part to\\ntravel with such things at all, we all told him so, some\\nof the party adding valuable remarks as to the undesirable\\nhabit of smoking in which the young men of the present\\nday indulge after which we felt better, and were able to\\nattack the trout. There was just time after breakfast\\nthe next morning to visit the bridge the old town looked", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0026.jp2"}, "27": {"fulltext": "ER$\\n\\\\iy x l*^\\nB R\u00c2\u00a3 fc=\\n1 nf\u00c2\u00ab\\n\u00c2\u00abnrr;\\ns=iMwiQs\\nfey", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0027.jp2"}, "28": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0028.jp2"}, "29": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 7\\nvery lovely in the bright sunshine, the river, in its swift\\nsteady flow, seemed the most lifelike thing about the\\nplace, and in its dreamy apathetic quiet all the vitality of\\nBasle might have been washed down in that strong tide.\\nThe steep-roofed houses looked out with brown and white\\nand pink faces amongst the trees great rafts of timber\\nand light boats floated down the stream quaint-costumed\\npeasants passed us on their way to market, driving carts\\ndrawn by a horse and a little cow, or by sturdy oxen\\nand women were at work washing linen in wooden-roofed\\nbarges moored to the shore, rinsing and soaking moist\\nmasses in the water, as the green waves swirled with a\\ngreat rush against the planks.\\nThree or four hours by rail brought us to Schaffhausen,\\na very slow train affording endless studies of the country-\\npeople who thronged the little stations. At one of these\\nwe watched with much amusement a procession of men\\nand women, laden with sacks, who had just descended\\nfrom a third-class compartment; as they passed us, carrying\\ntheir burdens on their shoulders, on their backs, or in their\\narms, each sack struggled and squeaked and wriggled in\\nthe most ridiculous way, and w T e thought pigs and peasants\\nhad all rather a hard time of it little children on their\\nway to school carried knapsacks strapped to their shoulders\\nwith the lesson-books of the day; and every traveller, male\\nor female, was armed with a large coloured cotton um-\\nbrella. For the greater part of the way we journeyed by", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0029.jp2"}, "30": {"fulltext": "8 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nthe river, passing many picturesque old towns and villages,\\nthe country looking most lovely with bright spring foli-\\nage shining against the dark background of the forest,\\nSehivarz Wald in reality as well as in name. The fields\\nwere one mass of flowers, and the fruit trees were just\\nbursting into blossom here and there men were making\\nhay in the fields there was a freshness and lightness in\\nthe air that was very pleasant, and a delicious sense of\\ncoming summer.\\nAt night we slept at the hotel above the Falls of\\nSchaffhausen, feeling a little as though it were all a\\ndream. We were evidently the first arrivals of the season,\\nand the great empty house looked rather dreary. Some-\\nbody must be the first arrival everywhere, so we made\\nthe best of it; and surely the most crabbed of mortals\\nmight well have been content, as, looking from the open\\nwindow, the whole wonderful scene burst upon the\\nview the great green river, falling in one mighty mass\\nover the rocks, lashing itself into a white fury, as it\\nplunged and roared and struggled down the rapids, and\\nthen lying panting and still for a moment before it\\nswept away again behind the hills. We saw it in a\\nsetting of softest tints of golden green from the wooded\\nslopes and the garden beneath us, where a great Judas-\\ntree threw its purple blossoms across the flow ot the\\nemerald water.\\nIn the morning we ran down to the shore, and were", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0030.jp2"}, "31": {"fulltext": "fceltlm fram Hit trairu.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0031.jp2"}, "32": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0032.jp2"}, "33": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 9\\npaddled in a long unwieldy boat to the opposite side,\\npassing just near enough to the eddies to feel the faster\\nrush of the water. We walked up through the woods,\\nthe Philistine belonging to our barge signalling an\\nAmalekite with a prolonged whistle, who took us in\\ncharge, and marshalled us into a number of little galleries\\nhanging over the water, and built out into the foam,\\nacross which a lovely rainbow had flung the glory of its\\ncolouring.\\nIn the sunlight every bubble that burst upon the\\ncrest of the waves was irridescent and brilliant as a\\ndiamond, and deep down under the whiteness were shades\\nof emerald and lilac and dark soft green, flecked and\\nrippled with spray. The Amalekite rested near by, keep-\\ning us well within sight, but too accustomed to the scene\\nand the appropriate emotions of the British traveller to\\nbe keenly observant of either. The roar was deafening,\\nas the water dashed under the rotten old planks and\\nflung a shower of foam over the gallery, drenching us in a\\nmoment if we ventured to the end, till, mazed and giddy,\\nwe were glad to retreat, and mount still higher into the\\nqueerly-decorated rooms of the chateau above. It had\\nbeen a veritable chateau once, boasting all the dignity of\\nage, and would be well in keeping with the scene, had not\\nPhilistines and Amalekites, and the other inhabitants of\\nthe land, hewers of wood and drawers of water, carvers\\nand painters of the nineteenth century, combined to make", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0033.jp2"}, "34": {"fulltext": "10 BREAKING THE ICE, OB\\na stand there, and to prey upon the harmless stranger\\nfor which end you are led through odd little cabinets,\\ncontaining very bad studies in oil, and large collections 01\\ncarvings in bone and wood and ivory, until, with a sigh\\nof relief, you reach the courtyard and find a genuine\\nantique gateway and an old pump, and so wander round\\nto the bridge above the Falls, from which you look down\\nupon the river just making up its mind to the inevi-\\ntable leap.\\nThere was enough frost in the air to make a good fire\\nin the stove pleasant on our return, and as we gathered\\nround the lamp in the little salon lingering over our tea,\\nit was difficult to believe that we were only three or four\\ndays out of England our pleasant wandering life seemed\\nto have been going on for months, and we had already\\nreached a quiet atmosphere in which people speculated\\ndimly as to the chances of war. Count Bismark grew to\\nbe little more than a myth, and we subsided to the level\\nof the agricultural population around us, peasants and\\ncows being about equally unconcerned as to the balance\\nof power in Europe.\\nA steam down the Lake of Constance brought us to\\nLindau, where we landed amidst a crowd of natives\\nwaiting to welcome old King Ludwig. The pretty little\\ntown was alive with people there were flags flying, and\\ngreen wreaths everywhere. A steamer, with its rigging\\nbrilliant with coloured buntings, puffed up to the pier, and", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0034.jp2"}, "35": {"fulltext": "K\\\\ lUTumf", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0035.jp2"}, "36": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0036.jp2"}, "37": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0037.jp2"}, "38": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0038.jp2"}, "39": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEEKING IN AN OMNIBUS. 11\\nhis Majesty landed a cheery, kindly-looking old man,\\nbowing and smiling as the eager spectators opened a\\npath for him and walked to the station, where a mag-\\nnificent high-and-mighty, in blue and silver, Konigliche-\\nBaiern beadle mounted guard. The lake was lying still,\\nand glimmering in the sunshine; the old towers and\\nhouses, black-roofed and high-peaked and picturesque,\\nrose dark against the clear sky; the Lion of Bavaria,\\ncouched on its pillar, turned its placid face towards the\\nwater and about its base pressed the kind welcoming\\npeople, and we eagerly scanned the sunburnt faces\\nseeking for a Grrindelwalder the brave, sturdy, faithful,\\nChristian Aimer who was to join us there, and give his\\ngood services for some mountaineering during the next\\nfew weeks.\\nOnly two nights lay between us and Paris. A few\\nhours in train and steamboat, and we had entered on a\\nnew life, as completely strange, un-English, unspoilt as to\\nluxury, unhacknied as to rules and conventionalities, as\\nany wayworn atom of civilisation could desire even a\\nlittle more so than was quite pleasant, in the matter of\\nblankets and other mundane comforts. The Great City\\nthat Kosmos of M. Victor Hugo, absorbing entire humanity\\ninto itself, according to the poet s utterances rested in-\\nfinitely far-off in an ideal atmosphere of its own. It is\\nsaid that good Americans when they die go to Paris;\\nand leaving it to such faithful worshippers, sons of the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0039.jp2"}, "40": {"fulltext": "12 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nsoil/ and Transatlantic visitors, we were well content,\\nthough somewhat shivering, to dwell beyond its borders\\nin a dim land a limbo, if need were, M. Victor Hugo\\ninsisting on his fancy as to the world in general full of\\ngreat mountains and everlasting snow, simple natures,\\ngreat quiet beasts, grass and flowers, and giant glaciers,\\nStelhvagen, cows and fresh milk innocent of the latteries\\nof the Pre Catalan and the bergeres of the Bois-de-\\nBoulogne.\\nHeavy rain came on, as our train slowly puffed and\\npanted on its wa}^ and with the rain a cold wind that\\nmade us shiver; and, worse than all, it began dimly to\\ndawn on us that spring was two or three weeks behind its\\ntime here as well as in England, and that the Bavarian\\nhighlands and the accommodation they afforded were\\nnot exactly adapted to an inclement season. We did our\\nbest to believe we had not made a mistake, and to have\\nfaith each day in warmth for the morrow but until we\\nreached Ischl, nine days later, the prospect was not a\\nbrilliant one.\\nAt Immenstadt we found a rather dirty little inn, but\\nmanaged to secure some food, and then started, in two of\\nthe queerest shandrydan carriages, for a ten-mile drive to\\nHindelang. We passed through a broad valley rich in\\nbeautiful scenery, which we could enjoy even without the\\nsunshine and in spite of the clouds, which did their best\\nto hide everything but the road, as they came down", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0040.jp2"}, "41": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 13\\nalmost on the roof of the carriage. A great deal of fresh\\nsnow must have fallen in the night, and the low hills and\\npine-woods were thickly covered. We were glad when,\\nafter due rattling of springs and boards (windows there\\nwere none), our shaking vehicles drew up before an old\\nwayside inn, which, however, looked anything but pro-\\nmising. The rain was coming down heavier than ever,\\nand our last sight of the outer world showed us a stray\\ncloudlet that had ventured so low that it had actually got\\ncaught in the shelter of a gable, where it hung, looking\\nrather ashamed of itself, and sighing for breath enough to\\nblow itself off again.\\nThe whole situation was so deplorable that it was neces-\\nsary for each member of the party to make an effort, and\\nrise to the occasion, which was nobly done and leaving\\nthe gentlemen to settle with the Kutscher, we rallied round\\nMrs. C. as a forlorn hope, and set out on an exploring ex-\\npedition. These great country inns throughout Germany,\\nTyrol, and the Engadine, are all on the same pattern:\\nstrongly built of stone or brick and often very large, they\\nwander over a great extent of land, the ground-floor\\nbeing devoted to kitchens, an entrance-hall with a wooden\\ntable and benches for the peasants, and a Stube adjoining,\\nwhich answers to the bar of our public-houses. Making\\nour way to the staircase, we mounted to a long, broad\\nlanding, or upper hall, with a vaulted roof and walls, all\\nwhitewashed alike the floors were clean, but very bare", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0041.jp2"}, "42": {"fulltext": "14 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nand cold, and dark heavy doors led into the chambers. A\\nKellnevin explained to us that the Wivthin was out, and\\nthat the Damen must understand that the Wivthin be-\\nstirred herself in everything consequently, when she was\\nnot there, it was simply chaos. Would the Damen kindly\\nbelieve this, and adapt themselves to circumstances\\nThere was a room pointing to an apartment with five\\nlarge windows, a long table with eighteen chairs ranged\\naround it, a big black stove, and two wooden boxes con-\\ntaining striped duvets in their respective corners, There\\nwere six travellers? Would not the Damen consider\\nthere was space enough for the entire party? They\\npreferred several rooms certainly they should have them\\nthen, but truly the chamber was very spacious\\nAppropriating the barrack to Mrs. C. and D. for the\\nnight, and arranging it as the salle a manger for the\\nmoment, E. and C. took possession of an adjoining apart-\\nment the gentlemen being installed in rooms on the\\nother side of the landing. A fire was ordered in the\\nbarrack stove, and we implored the people to give us\\nsome food as quickly as possible. But as we could see no\\nsigns of bed or nourishment, we sent for the landlord, and\\nentreated him to make the servants hurry themselves.\\nHe was a large apathetic man, who echoed the Kellneriri s\\nwords\\nThe Wivthin is away; the Wivthin sees to everything\\nwithout the Wivthin nothing can be done. She has all", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0042.jp2"}, "43": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 15\\nthe keys but, patience she may return to-night, unless\\nindeed she remains away till to-morrow.\\nBut at least give us some food; tea and bread and\\nmeat you must have. We cannot starve because there\\nhappens to be no Wirthin\\nWill the Damen graciously understand that there is\\nno tea? There was some in a paper that a traveller left\\nwith us, but it is in a cupboard which is locked, and the\\nWirthin has the key, as I before explained to the Herr-\\nschaft; also there is no teapot, which gnddige Frauen\\nwould in itself be a difficulty but, patience patience\\nmay be the Wirthin will return, and then the Damen\\nshall see\\nUtterly in despair, we took matters into our own hands.\\nE. unpacked a small teapot, real Britannia-metal, her\\nespecial pride Mrs. C. hunted out a packet of tea and\\nsome potted meat from the portmanteau and then, with\\nChristian s assistance, fetched some hot water from the\\nkitchen below, which was boiled in a pan over a wood-\\nfire, and dipped out with a ladle. Meanwhile a woman\\nwas induced to prepare some coffee and eggs, and slowly,\\nand with many journeyings, a sufficient spread was pro-\\nvided and we all gathered round the long table, and made\\nourselves very merry over our improvised supper. While\\nwe were feasting, the Kellnerin entered to arrange the\\nbeds and hunt up washing-basins, carrying on a frag-\\nmentary conversation with us at the same time her task", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0043.jp2"}, "44": {"fulltext": "16\\nwas nearly accomplished when one of the wooden boxes\\ngave way, or at least its bottom came out, and the bed\\ndisappeared on one side so with an exclamation of despair,\\nafter puzzling at it in vain, she hurried away, returning\\nwith a deaf old Oberland peasant, who had been busy\\ncarting manure in the yard. Their united efforts restored\\norder, but our attention had been meanwhile attracted,\\nand we noticed, with some dismay, that the bed-making\\nconsisted in spreading one coarse sheet on the mattrass,\\nand placing a duvet over it. It was freezing hard, and\\nwe were stiff with cold and damp, and rather rheumatic.\\nWhere were the blankets\\n6 Ach Himmel! they had no blankets; there were the\\nbeautiful duvets what more could we want There was\\nnot a blanket in the house but when the Wirthin returned,\\nah then indeed she would see to everything.\\nThe long room, and the long table, and the eighteen\\nchairs looked so unutterably melancholy when the feast\\nwas over, that we had to dance in self-defence, while D.\\nplayed on a cracked old clavier that had been discovered\\nin E. and C. s room and our father entertained a crowd\\nof guides aud peasants with a display of coloured lights\\nand magnesium-wire, and warmed himself at the kitchen-\\nfire. The gentlemen fared but badly during the night,\\nbut F. is impervious to cold, and one railway rug was\\nattainable, while the ladies entrenched themselves beneath\\ndresses and duvets.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0044.jp2"}, "45": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0045.jp2"}, "46": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0046.jp2"}, "47": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 17\\nWonderful fun we had, if but little comfort. We care-\\nfully examined all our doors, and fastened them as well as\\nwe could, to guard against extra draughts, or sudden gusts\\nof wind. Mrs. C. discovered a vast unfurnished apartment\\nbeyond E. and C. s, which seemed to have been shut up\\nthrough the winter, judging from the stuffiness of the at-\\nmosphere and she returned announcing that it contained\\nnothing but an unpleasant smell In fact, we had the\\nwhole hotel to ourselves, so we barricaded that door also,\\nand then laughed till we were warm over the utter desola-\\ntion of our rooms, and in the strength of that momentary\\nglow prepared to go to rest such rest as it was. The\\nduvets were small and slippery, and if we pulled them up\\nto our chins our feet were bare if we covered our feet our\\nshoulders were shivering, and we realised the unpleasant\\nsensation of cold water being incessantly poured down our\\nback. If one curled oneself into a ball, the duvet tumbled\\noff altogether, and of course it inevitably did so if we were\\never fortunate enough to fall asleep. But the longest\\nnight must have an end morning came, and brought the\\nWirtkin and after a capital breakfast which we had to\\ncollect for ourselves piecemeal, as at supper, and which\\nwas amusing enough in the display of crockery, no two\\ncups being alike we felt equal to encountering the vicissi-\\ntudes of another day, and started at eight for Keutte,\\ndriving in the carriages of the previous evening.\\nThe cold was intense, with an east wind that would", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0047.jp2"}, "48": {"fulltext": "18 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nhave done Mr. Kingsley s heart good, but which was any-\\nthing but cheering to ours, and we were glad to walk to\\nwarm ourselves whenever we had the excuse of a hill.\\nThe gleams of sunshine made the distant mountains very\\nbeautiful, and the flowers were exquisite gentians, cowslip\\nand ox slip, and little soldanellas starring the grass with\\ntheir bright colours. At the frontier the gentlemen and\\nMrs. C. descended to show their passports to two worthy\\ngreatcoated Austrian officials, and then we rested for an\\nhour at a little wayside inn, eating bread and cheese, and\\ngossiping with the old Wirthin and her sweet-faced\\ndaughter, who seated herself at our side, talking quietly of\\nthe little interests of their daily life, and smiling placidly\\nwhile we sketched her. It was such a good womanly\\nface, full of gentle modesty, and the placid content these\\npeasants seemed to have learned from the patient beasts\\nthey spend their lives in tending, an ox-eyed Juno, grown\\na thought less queenly from much milking of the kine.\\nOur fair-faced model had a sweeter if a lowlier name\\nFilomena and she wrote it, with a shy pleasure in her\\nown performance, under the little sketch, and then flinging\\nherself, in a sudden rush of confidence, upon E., hurried\\nher away from the little salon, with most persuasive\\neloquence\\n6 Come, dear Frdulein, and see the house, and our dairy\\nthere is good cheese and butter, and the mother will be so\\nproud to show it you.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0048.jp2"}, "49": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 19\\nWe all followed, picking our way carefully across the\\nsomewhat dirty floor of an old stable, and reaching a clean\\ncool room, where were many vessels ranged in order, filled\\nwith delicious milk, and a goodly store of cheeses in long-\\nrows. The old woman laughed with delight at our plea-\\nsure in it all, as we seized a tin bowl and dipped up some\\nof the ir $?tit laiV from the great boiler on the fire, scalding\\nour mouths in attempts to drink it.\\nThen a cellar had to be visited, full of wood stacked in\\nthe corners, at one end of which was a tiny room, and a\\nloom where Filomena spent many an hour weaving house-\\nhold linen, and singing like a bird that loved its cage, and\\nknew it was still home for her, however poor and bent\\nand old the bars might be. We had quite a little tender\\nparting with these dear souls, and then a long drive to\\nLermos, where we were to sleep.\\nFor part of the way the road made a rapid descent,\\nbounded on one side by high rocks, amongst the crevices\\nof which mosses and grass were springing wherever the\\nearth could find a resting-place lichens stretching out\\nlittle hands, and grasping the huge stones with loving te-\\nnacity, working out slowly and patiently the great Creative\\nwill, preparing the tiny gardens where the spring flowers\\nwere to bloom later, and make the old hills beautiful with\\ntheir sweetness. Even now there were blossoms shining\\nin the grass, and as we ran down the hill there came a cry\\nof delight from one and another as a fresh flower was\\nc", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0049.jp2"}, "50": {"fulltext": "20 HBEAKING THE ICE, OR\\nadded to our store. A more adventurous climber would\\nbe rewarded by a bright spoil of blue gentian and golden-\\neyed cistus and in some shady corner, which the sun had\\nnot reached, there was still hanging a white fringe of\\nicicles, which glittered for a moment amongst the flowers\\nin our hands, and then trickled slowly away through\\nstems and leaves, making them shiver a little doubtless,\\nand leaving its traces in the pink finger tips that had\\nrashly grasped them, and hands grown cold and rosy in\\nthe contact.\\nA wall bounded the zigzags on our right, and far below\\nthere was a river dancing in the lightness of its heart as\\nonly mountain rivers do because they know all the little\\nsecrets of the hills, and are in such a terrible hurry to tell\\nthem to the sea. What gossips the Naiads must have been,\\nand how dull they must have thought it to be swallowed\\nby a great overgrown stream, who was only bent on doing\\nits duty and going steadily on its way We found many\\nvillages lying near each other, large and prosperous, with\\nsaw-mills and fabrics.\\nAt Eeutte we stopped between three and four o clock,\\nand while dinner was preparing, explored the curious\\nlittle town, where the houses are all set cornerwise to the\\nstreet, and are rich in coloured faces, pink and white and\\npale green, and have queer little plethoric shops, with\\nbulged-out windows full of the strangest medley of goods,\\nspecimens of coloured glass that have wandered here from", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0050.jp2"}, "51": {"fulltext": "ffo laih: bcfiatfwalc", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0051.jp2"}, "52": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0052.jp2"}, "53": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 21\\nMunich manufactories, pipes and rosaries, and crockery\\nware, useful and ornamental. There was a charming\\nstork in blown glass, with a great expenditure of yellow\\npaint on its bill, in which was firmly grasped a e kleines\\nKind, 1 swathed in an extremely tight and uncomfortable\\nmanner, but held with wonderful skill by the admirable\\nbird, who, proud of his trust, balanced himself conceitedly\\non one leg and surveyed the world at his leisure. Of\\ncourse we secured such an interesting illustration of the\\nhabits of the country but the bird had one disadvantage,\\nhe was undeniably brittle, and he and the baby were a\\ngreat care during our journey, though we improvised a\\ncharming basinette among the frills in the border of Mrs.\\nC. s best bonnet, and had the proud satisfaction of bringing\\nboth nurse and infant in safety to England.\\nFor the next few days we lived upon veal, eggs, and\\nmilk, unmitigated KcdbsfLeisch, and eggs boiled and fried,\\nin Omeletten and Pfannkiichen, and Mehlspeise, the din-\\nners beiug served for the most part in a most primitive\\nmanner, the supply of knives and forks, and clean plates,\\nbeing very limited. A north-easter is a famous sauce\\npiquante, and so we lived and flourished and enjoyed our\\ncalf, though it was not a fatted one.\\nThe shandrydan and the cabriolet, which had brought us\\nthus far, were dismissed, and we started in two Postvjagen,\\nwith two gorgeous Herren Postillionen, and a nourish\\nof trumpets, literal and metaphorical, each of our drivers\\nc 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0053.jp2"}, "54": {"fulltext": "22 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nbeing provided with a horn, suspended from his shoulder\\nby a thick betasselled black and yellow cord. The road\\nwas a fine piece of Austrian engineering, winding by a\\ngradual ascent round the hill side. We could see Eeutte\\nfar below us, and our track of the morning fading into the\\ndistance on one side lay the most exquisitely green valley,\\nand every turn disclosed another and yet another snow T y\\nmountain gleaming in the light. The horses were fresh\\nand up to their w r ork, and trotted on merrily to the music\\nof the horns which the two men were playing; the drivers\\nkeeping time cleverly, with now and then an interlude of\\njodeling, the echoes making wild work with voice and music,\\nand sending messages among the old mountains in a plea-\\nsant state of excitement, for was not the season beginning,\\nand were not the first travellers coming for a prey As the\\nhorses toiled up a steep ascent the men walked beside\\nthem, affording us an opportunity of studying them quietly.\\nThe leading driver was a very young man, well grown and\\nlooking picturesque enough in his quaint dress, but with\\nthe picturesqueness of an old album study, when young\\nmen were drawn with long limbs, gracefully encased in\\ntight garments, w 7 ith smooth cheeks on which was the flush\\nof youth and modesty, hair inclined to wave, with full-\\norbed eyes, large curling lips, rosy as the cheeks, and a\\nnose somewhat long and drooping. Alas, for those days of\\npropriety and delicate sentiment Nous avons change\\ntout cela beards and muscles, a good honest appetite and", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0054.jp2"}, "55": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 23\\nBalmoral boots have fairly extinguished them our Pos-\\ntillion was the only live specimen we had ever seen of ori-\\nginals that must sometime have existed. Above the road\\nstood a very fine old ruined castle, perched on the summit\\nof a grand cliff amidst masses of greenery, and an amphi-\\ntheatre of fir trees, tier above tier, swept away to our right,\\nwith distant white and blue hills filling up the picture.\\nAt a sudden turn a cry of astonishment broke from us a\\nmountain rose out of the trees, one great sheet of snow,\\nutterly white, and dazzling us by its exceeding brilliance,\\nexcept here and there, where a faint grey shadow flitted\\nacross it from the light clouds floating overhead. It\\nlooked like a great Easter cake for the little angels, with\\nalmond rocks somewhere hidden away in its depths, which\\nwere to be melted in the sunshine. Were there not some\\nrosy fingers growing out of that cloudlet as we looked,\\nfloating nearer, nearer, and longing to begin already\\nHappy little angels that only care for cake in German\\npicture-books, and even then are never impatient a snow\\nmountain, beautiful and unearthly as it is, is too real for\\nyour i immortal wonderment. But there is a fresh light\\nupon the mountain, a pink flush, that makes it look, oh so\\nnice, if only there was somebody to eat it. It is more like\\na cake than ever, and it is such a very big one. Surely\\nthere are Dante s little spirits to fall back upon, who were\\nso innocent and sweet, and whom he put into a mournful\\nshadowy place, where the poor babies could do nothing but", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0055.jp2"}, "56": {"fulltext": "24 BREAKING THE ICE, OK\\nsigh, and kept them far away from heaven because they\\nhad never been baptized which always made us unhappy\\nas children, when we read the story, and could do nothing\\nto help them. We will fancy them now dwelling in that\\ncloud land, the 6 poor little innocents, who would not be\\ntoo good to eat the cake, and who would enjoy it so\\nexceedingly because they had never had very much on\\nearth.\\nWe met droves of goats and meek-faced ewes slowly\\nwandering home from their pastures, or hurrying to quench\\ntheir thirst at a village fountain, jumbled altogether in a\\nqueer mass of horns and impatient hoofs and frisking tails\\nlonger or shorter, in their eagerness to reach the water-\\ntrough.\\nAs the evening was closing in we reached Lermos, plea-\\nsantly weary after our long drive, and all the exceeding\\nbeauty which eyes and mind had been absorbing during\\nthe day. The hotel looked very unpromising, but profit-\\ning by our recent experience we did not judge too hastily,\\nand when once the upper landing was reached matters\\nbegan to improve. As before, there were the large rooms,\\nbut they were better furnished, and if there were no\\nblankets, there were at least couvertures as well as duvets.\\nA fire was quickly lit in one of the great stoves, built half\\ninto a corner wall, which was so thick that it had a cavern-\\nous depth of many feet, and piles of wood were heaped\\nin and blazed and crackled, we watching them from the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0056.jp2"}, "57": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0057.jp2"}, "58": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0058.jp2"}, "59": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 25\\nlanding through, the small opening usually closed by an\\niron door, and enjoying the sight long before any warmth\\nhad penetrated the great pottery stove within the salon.\\nThe tea was a peripatetic meal, as just outside our win-\\ndows rose the great Zugspitze in all the rose glow of a\\nclear sunset, and we must perforce watch the light fading\\nand the cold shadows creeping up its side, though the eggs\\nwere cooling, and the great bowls of warm milk were\\nbubbling most enticingly. Another very cold night, spite\\nof the large stoves, which, if your bed happens to be near\\nthem, suffocate you with heat for an hour or more, and\\nthen, as the wood burns low, a shiver creeps through the\\nroom, and there is only a sense of heaviness in the air to\\nremind you of the departed warmth. The beds were nar-\\nrow, and the sheets were cut to their exact size, so that it\\nwas impossible to tuck them in anywhere, and the cover-\\nings being made on the same principle, it was difficult to\\nmake ourselves warm all over at once.\\nWe were roused at an early hour by the goatherd s horn,\\nand watched from our windows the little beasts trotting up\\nto the rendezvous, obedient to the call. In German and\\nSwiss villages the same custom prevails two or three of the\\nchildren are chosen as Gans- or Ziegen- or Kuh-General\\nand armed with his long Alpine horn or whip, the little\\nherdsman summons his flock, geese or goats or cows join-\\ning him the moment their stable doors are opened, and\\nfollowing him to the pastures, where they are allowed to", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0059.jp2"}, "60": {"fulltext": "26 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nwander during the day. It is the prettiest sight in the\\nworld to see them returning at sunset each of the sen-\\nsible creatures breaking away from the main body when\\nthe turning towards its home is reached, and trotting off\\nto its owners.\\nWe left Lermos soon after eight o clock, starting in\\nbright sunshine which illuminated the little village, alive\\nwith people and cows, whose cheery bells filled the air\\nwith a pleasant music. This time we determined to try\\na new conveyance, and rejoiced in securing a large\\nomnibus with windows at the side, behind, and in front,\\nspace enough for two besides the driver, and for our lug-\\ngage on the roof. When people and things were stowed\\naway, we felt rather like a band of strolling players, or as\\nthough we and our van were somehow dimly connected with\\na cheap-jack, or a merry-go-round. It certainly was an odd\\nand unromantic conveyance for a journey among the moun-\\ntains, but we found it eminently practical, and as it was\\nimpossible to procure anything like an ordinary close car-\\nriage, and equally impossible to drive in an open one, we\\nwere thankful to secure our Stellivagen and four strong-\\nhorses, who carried us over the pass at a steady pace. It is\\nso hopeless by any words to describe the exceeding love-\\nliness of everything that surrounded us, that one hesitates\\nto attempt a bad copy of a most perfect picture. Every\\ninch of the way was a study in itself, of jewelled moss and\\nfresh grass, dewy and sparkling, with soft heaps of brown", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0060.jp2"}, "61": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 27\\ntwigs and ground-ivy, amongst which pansies raised their\\nviolet heads, and white flowers could nestle each stone\\nwas covered with grey or golden lichen creeping up to\\nmeet the tufts of bright green ferns, which seemed to\\nspring out of the rocks little streams made a sweet bab-\\nbling among the crevices and fell in delicious cascades over\\nthe bigger pebbles, and floated away leaves and twigs and\\nbroken stems till they disappeared in the great stream\\nwhich flowed beside the road. The trees were in the full\\npride of their spring beauty, and the leaves were still too\\nyoung to have grown dusty; the sun turned them all to\\ngold, and cast long shadows across their stems and along\\nthe hill side, and the passing clouds made purple shades\\ncome and go, now 7 deepening now brightened, in the thick\\nboscage of the pines. The highest trees wore a light\\npowdering of snow that became them mightily, and the\\nhills were robed in fresh whiteness from a very recent\\nshower. But all the snow having fallen and turned into\\nbeautiful white drapery for the old giants taller and\\nshorter alike, the sky w T as left to its blue, the sunlight had\\neverything its own way, and shone upon the little lakes,\\ndeep tarns embosomed in the trees flashing with purple,\\nand blue, and emerald reflections of what earthly colour-\\ning who can tell\\nAt Nassereit, a picturesque little town, we descended\\ninto the prosaics of life, and while the horses were changed,\\nw T e wandered through the winding street, making sketches", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0061.jp2"}, "62": {"fulltext": "28 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nof the people, with a fine following of the gamins of the\\nplace, to whom, when they had surmounted their first\\nawe, we evidently afforded the keenest amusement. There\\nwas an oriel window, rich in diamond-paned glass, break-\\ning the dead white surface of a wall, with women leaning\\nout, and showing bright-tinted kerchiefs and boddices\\nagainst the dark back-ground of the room within. From\\nmany a little casement heads young and old peeped out to\\nwatch our proceedings from one a shrivelled nut-cracker-\\nfaced old crone looked down upon us, a fit study for a\\nMurillo, with her deep wrinkles, and sinewy arms folded\\nlazily, a glorious bit of colour, from the deep orange folds\\nof the cloth about her head to the brown skin and the fiery\\neyes, and one wandering old tooth which rested on the\\nlower lip a very uncanny old woman, who might have\\nhad a broomstick hidden under her bed Nevertheless,\\nE. made a drawing of her, and held it up for inspection,\\nand the poor old soul nodded approval, which made us\\ncharitably believe she might have a conscience and then\\nwe turned the old pump into a studio, but so many models\\noffered, it was difficult to satisfy them all. One beautiful\\nyoung peasant girl stood, with a pitcher balanced on her\\nsmall well-shaped head, round which the dark hair was\\nclosely braided, her naked feet firmly planted on the\\nground, the careless grace of her attitude and her grave\\ndelight making a charming study. We distributed Zivan-\\nzigers and little German books amongst the people, who", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0062.jp2"}, "63": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0063.jp2"}, "64": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0064.jp2"}, "65": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 29\\neagerly received our small gospels, under the very eyes of\\ntheir patron saint, who stood, wooden and stolid and very\\ngorgeous in the matter of paint and gilding, watching over\\nthe consumption of water and the gossip of the town.\\nWhat an amount of scandal that poor old worthy would\\nhave had to listen to, if he had been less hard of hearing\\nquarrels, love-making, merry chatter, sad and tender\\npartings, all the chances and changes of this busy life,\\nmust have been chronicled in that spot; and the poor\\nold image, very harmless in its way, held out its two\\nstiff old ringers, with the paint somewhat worn about\\nthe joints, and blessed us all alike who passed beneath\\nit. The pious fellow-townsfolk had erected a tin um-\\nbrella, in the form of a double tea-tray, to keep the rain-\\ndrops from its head, lest it should grow damp and cracky,\\nand moulder away slowly, as others did who were but\\nhuman.\\nThe frost that had made everything so beautiful for us,\\nhad done hard things for the poor cottagers and as we\\ndrove on we passed by many orchards, where they told us\\nsadly the apple-blossom had been all destroyed. This\\nnext stage brought us to Ober-Miemingen, where we\\nwere to dine, and here even our calf failed -us. There was\\na Wirthin within, who was the embodiment of the slow-\\nness of the entire people.\\nAh the Herrschaft are starving that is grievous but\\nthen, dear heaven, what would they have Mehlspeise", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0065.jp2"}, "66": {"fulltext": "30 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nassuredly It is not enough Then, what else is there\\nTruly nothing, and I can but do my best.\\ni Some meat, madame, we answered, in just fifteen\\nlittle minutes and fried potatoes and eggs, Ochsenaugen\\nand cheese, and bread, and beer, or some coffee, and per-\\nhaps a salad but do not forget we are very hungry, and\\nwe must eat.\\n6 Ah, these Herrschaft these travellers! cried the\\nWirthin, it is wollen, and mussen, and im Augenblich\\nIt is ever so, ever but it is Freitag there is no meat\\nthe Herrschaft know it is a fast.\\nBut, madame we replied, we are Protestants\\nand English, and very hungry, and, according to our\\nreligion, when we are hungry we are to eat. Dear\\nmadame, send some one to look for that little calf, for\\nassuredly meat is a canon of our faith, and without it\\nour nation cannot exist. Sauerkraut is a dish highly\\nto be commended, but the English stomach is inca-\\npable of being nourished by it. Is there not a little\\ncalf?\\nThus pressed on all sides, the good Wirthin gave way.\\nIf we were heretics, what did it matter But she must\\nhave said an extra Ave or two over her frying-pan, to ease\\nher conscience, and thus delayed the cooking, judging\\nfrom the length of time we had to wait.\\nOnce more in our omnibus, we journeyed to Telfs, where\\nthere were more picturesque houses and wooden saints, a\\ngreat fountain, and a church tower, half spire, half dome,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0066.jp2"}, "67": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0067.jp2"}, "68": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0068.jp2"}, "69": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 31\\na great brown bulb swelling out above the stone-work,\\nwith a slender rod ending in a gilt cross. Large quantities\\nof wood were piled up by the river, waiting to be carried\\ndown to the saltworks at Hall, and there was a churchyard\\nfull of quaint tombs, bas-reliefs, and rude frescoes. Chil-\\ndren were playing amongst the graves, and the Telfs\\nchickens making themselves at home on the grass, whilst\\none old hen was drinking solemnly out of a small cup of\\nholy water, which was sculptured in the stone. At Zirl\\nour last omnibus was left behind, and, after a considerable\\namount of discussion and entreaty on the part of the\\ngentlemen, a carriage was secured, and our luggage packed\\naway somewhere about it, when the waiter announced to\\nus that all was ready, and ushered us from the salle a\\nmanger, where we had been waiting, to the front-door.\\nWe seemed to have journeyed back two hundred years at\\nthe least, and to be living in some old-world story. Such\\na chariot was waiting for us A dim old stage-coach hung\\nbetween high springs and joints, and bars of wood and\\niron, sometime gilt and gorgeous, with two small windows\\nto the doors very warm and comfortable within still,\\nand well-padded and soft, if ever so moth-eaten. We\\nfour ladies took our places with a gravity befitting the\\noccasion the servitors placed their shoulders against the\\nside of the vehicle, and heaved it up, and were thus enabled\\nto close the door the gentlemen mounted into a cabriolet,\\nand prepared to attend us, and slowly we were swung and\\nrattled along towards Innsbruck. A lazy content settled", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0069.jp2"}, "70": {"fulltext": "32 BREAKING THE ICE, OH\\ndown upon our spirits, that pleasant weariness that comes\\nso full of dreams. One thought of all the little romances\\nthat had lived and died within the shelter of our old coach\\nthe sweet faces, the patches and ruffles, the powder\\nshaken out of the fair curls, the little hands resting on the\\nwindow, or making silent talk to some brave cavalier escort,\\nwhile a grim old duenna of a Grdfin slumbered in the\\ncorner. One could almost smell the patchouli, and realise\\na dim presence there still. A sudden lunge of the chariot,\\na bump over a stone, and there was only nineteenth cen-\\ntury dust, and the dull realities of modern travellers\u00e2\u0080\u0094 D.\\nburied in the shadow of her hat, Mrs. C. asleep behind her\\nspectacles in a corner. Perhaps some day we too may\\ngrow legendary and poetical to our great-grandchildren,\\nand the prospective New Zealander will write the idylls of\\nthe Alpine Club.\\nA shout from our driver, and vigorous indications of his\\nwhip, directed our attention to the great cliff under which\\nwe were passing, where, far above our heads, we were\\nintended to see the small cave and crucifix which marks\\nthe scene of an old Tyrol story.\\nThe Emperor Maximilian was as keen a sportsman as\\nany modern Wildsckwtz, and one fine morning, ever so\\nmany years ago, he was led in the excitement of the\\nchase, to the very edge of the great Martinswand, and\\nwhile the chamois bounded away in safety, the less fortu-\\nnate Emperor missed his footing, and, falling from the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0070.jp2"}, "71": {"fulltext": "T\\\\li tnarJoh wail s\\n/The poor cieaT Kaiset", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0071.jp2"}, "72": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0072.jp2"}, "73": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERINGS IN AN OMNIBUS. 33\\nrocks, was just able to save himself by clinging, with the\\ntenacity of despair, to a small ledge of rock, where he\\nhung helplessly, head downwards, in full view of his faithful\\nsubjects. Nobles and peasants, priests and courtiers, gave\\nhim up as lost. The spot was deemed simply inaccessible\\nto anything without wings, and unless a special miracle\\nwas wrought in his behalf, a faithful son of the Church\\nmust perish. Of course, a crowd was collected, and a holy\\nabbot was summoned, who, kneeling on the ground on\\nwhich our chariot and its heretical inmates were then\\nhalting, began solemnly chanting the prayers for the\\ndead. The poor Emperor, hanging by his eyelids mean-\\nwhile, and looking down from his elevation of more than\\n700 feet, must have been rather aggravated by the per-\\nformance, if, in the awful agony of such a moment, he\\nhad any sight or thoughts to spare for earthly things.\\nBut help was at hand, and a brave huntsman, seeing from\\nabove Maximilian s mortal peril, cried to him to be of\\ngood courage, and to maintain his hold and with wonder-\\nful skill and hardihood, he swung himself down to the\\nEmperor s side, seized him in his strong grasp, and cling-\\ning to the rocks with their iron-shod feet, they scaled the\\nwall that seemed so utterly inaccessible, while the abbot\\nchanted on below, and the people shouted e A miracle, an\\nangel has come to the rescue of the Kaiser\\nWhether the abbot was put on the pension list for\\nservices rendered, the legend sayeth not, but to one, Zips", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0073.jp2"}, "74": {"fulltext": "34 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nof Zirl, sixteen florins were paid yearly surely a not ex-\\ntravagant sum.\\nOf our two days stay in Innsbruck there is but little to\\ntell, but little to write about that would be new to anyone.\\nIt is a simple old town, with broad open streets, many\\nhandsome buildings, long arcades with shops hidden away\\nin their shadows, and fruit-sellers hawking Verona cherries\\nbeneath the pillars. There is a palace, and a public\\ngarden and Caserne, and many churches, a university and\\na museum. Rows of trees make a pleasant greenery\\nabout the river, and rich woods skirt the hills, which form\\na perfect wall on most sides of the town and from the\\nwindows of the houses, or the broad Neustadt, you look\\nup to the great stone giants, and think that, standing on\\ntheir summits, you could throw a pebble clear and straight\\ninto the street below and it is from this outlook that\\nhungry wolves are supposed to gaze when they come\\nprowling round on market-days, licking their lips, and\\nmoaning in melancholy fashion at the fat little lambs\\nbelow.\\nWe lived in most luxurious comfort at the Osterreichi-\\ncher Hof, where an attentive- landlord and a good cook\\ndid their best to make us welcome. One morning was\\nspent in the Hof-Kirche, a church boasting very little\\nbeauty of its own, but rich in the grand tomb of Maxi-\\nmilian. It was a proud thought of the old Emperor, that\\nwhile his own image was sculptured, kneeling with hands", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0074.jp2"}, "75": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERINGS IN AN OMNIBUS. 35\\nmeekly folded in prayer, about him keeping watch and ward\\nevermore, should stand knights and kings and warriors,\\nnoble women, wives and mothers of kings, the dead whom\\nhe would do well to honour, and many who had touched\\nhis hand in life, or stood by him in his toils and triumphs.\\nA throng of mighty ghosts, silent and colossal, in all\\nthe pomp of royal robes and brilliantly-wrought armour,\\nturned, as by a magician s wand, into rich bronze images.\\nWe could have lingered long recalling the history at-\\ntached to each great name, and marvelling at the skill\\nwhich made the robes fall in soft folds and showed the\\nermine at their edge, the gold and jewelled embroidery,\\nthe ripple of the hair, even the delicate lace over the\\nclasped hands, the fine chain armour, and the helmet with\\nits plume all wrought out in the metal by a master s\\nhand. Two of the most beautiful of the figures are\\nour own king Arthur, a most peerless-looking knight,\\nand Theoderic, leaning on his sword. There is poor\\nJoanne la Folle and her handsome husband, Ferdinand\\nthe Catholic, burly Godfrey of Bouillon, and 6 Frederick\\nwith the empty purse, somewhat the scapegrace of the\\nparty. The sides of the tomb are covered with minute\\nbas-reliefs in ivory, illustrating the life of the dead\\nEmperor. Births, deaths, marriages, battles, and treaties\\nall are rendered with wonderful beauty and truth. Near\\nthe door of the church is the grave of Hofer, marked by\\na tomb and a marble statue. The Austrians, with tardy\\nD", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0075.jp2"}, "76": {"fulltext": "36 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\njustice, buried him in triumph, and sought to forget that\\nthey had sacrificed him. Near by is a cenotaph to the\\nTyrolese who fell fighting for their fatherland. It is not\\npleasant to have all one s ideas of right and wrong sud-\\ndenly disarranged and for the last few years Italian sym-\\npathies had been part of our very creed of faith and here,\\nin Austria, the divine right of kings and the tenderness of\\na paternal government smooths for us the angry feathers of\\nthe old double eagle, and we almost forget the cruel beak,\\nthe grasp of the talons, and the long agony of Italy.\\nIt is well to see things with the eyes and minds of\\ndifferent peoples and races; you learn to have a horror\\nof prejudice and preconceptions, and to feel more and\\nmore how little you really know of other s hopes and\\nwishes and lives, and the modes of thought from which\\nactions slowly grow.\\nWe were breathing somewhat of a war atmosphere at\\nlast.* The town was full of soldiers, and regiments were\\nbeing hastily sent on to the front. Officers and men\\nstrolled about the streets in lazy security, smoked and\\nchatted; there was music, with blasts of trumpets, as\\nJdger or Grenzer started for the frontier but there was\\nlittle excitement and no enthusiasm the men we talked to\\nstill seemed sceptical of the possibility of a war between\\nthe German peoples with Italy there might be, but Italy\\nwould soon be crushed, and then there would be peace\\nOur journey was made during May and June of 1866.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0076.jp2"}, "77": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 37\\nand meanwhile the troops still passed to the front. One\\nmorning we were roused between three and four o clock\\nby a burst of music, and saw from our windows the long\\ntrain filing through the street, with mounted officers\\nmuffled in great grey coats, men in full marching order,\\nand baggage wagons, on one of which was stretched a\\npoor sick soldier, that made one think, with a shudder, of\\nthe coming death and misery hands were held in a tight\\nclasp, and sunburnt soldiers kissed on either cheek by\\nfriends amongst the crowd, and here and there a woman\\nturned away to sob but, on the whole, things were con-\\nducted in a business-like manner, and with the customary\\nGerman phlegm.\\nJust outside the town is the cemetery, GocVs acre, as\\nthe Germans name it, where there is much good sculpture\\nand fresh flowers, and beautiful creepers wreathed above\\nthe graves. We made two expeditions to Schloss Ambras,\\nonce during this first visit to Innsbruck and again on our\\nreturn two weeks later. The drive is a charming one,\\nwhen you have once got over the dusty road immediately\\noutside the town and begin to ascend, with rich wooded\\nhills on one hand of the broad valley of the Inn lying\\nat your feet. The view from the old chateau is quite per-\\nfect when the sunshine is flooding the whole scene with\\nlight, and before summer has come to melt the snow from\\nthe nearer hills. We stood long on the high broad terrace\\nwhere Ferdinand and Philippina must often have lingered\\nD 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0077.jp2"}, "78": {"fulltext": "38 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nin the early days of their happy married life, whispering\\nsweet words to each other, or speculating as to possible\\nforgiveness in the future, as they looked down on the old\\npalace (now buried beneath Maria Theresa s neuer Hof),\\nand thought of the direful anger of Kaiser and father-in-\\nlaw. Here their fair young sons grew up to that stately\\nbeauty which so touched the old man s heart, when Phi-\\nlippina flung herself at his feet, that he pardoned them\\nall, and blessed and provided for them on the instant,\\nthe mother and her young margraves going home content.\\nIt is strange to see how all the old stories and romances\\nof Tyrol centre round this fair-faced woman, who must\\nhave been as good and wise as she was beautiful, guiding\\nhusband and children with a tender hand, and teaching\\nthose rude knights and squires and people of the baser\\nsort, what home life and love might be. For thirty years,\\nthe legends say, the Archduke lived happily with his\\nBurgher wife; and the quaint, beautiful poem very\\nrarely to be read, alas in those fierce days ended in the\\nsculptured figures on a tomb, and a memory very tenderly\\nenshrined in the hearts of the people. Philippina Welser\\nwas the daughter of one of the old Augsburg citizen\\nprinces, and the sweet face that looks out at you from\\nthe picture is patrician in every delicate line and curve,\\nand winsome enough to make even a royal lover feel the\\nworld well lost for her dear sake.\\nApart from the exceeding beauty of its surroundings,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0078.jp2"}, "79": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 39\\nthere is a good deal of bathos about Schloss Ambras at the\\npresent day. The public are only admitted to the great\\nhall, once gorgeous in decoration, and celebrated for the\\nbeauty of the collection of rare armour, paintings, and gems\\nstored there by Ferdinand, one of whose prudent successors\\nhas despoiled the place. The marvels are all to be seen\\nin Vienna, and there is very little left except a few old\\nJapanese erections, some ludicrous oil-paintings of dwarfs\\nand giants, and a ghastly array of wooden horses, grey\\nand roan, black and piebald, waiting in their stalls for the\\narmour and the trappings that may never clothe their\\npoor old sides again. There was a stout porter in blue\\nlivery, who was custode of the great bare hall, and lived\\nthere happy in his implicit belief in the whole affair, and\\nvegetating on a decayed reputation. Worthy old servitor\\nWe regarded him with boundless respect and admiration\\nas he solemnly marshalled us from one old stand of bric-\\na-brac to another, expending a limitless treasure of\\ndescription on the Japanese pagodas, in voluble German,\\nto which Mrs. C. lent a most attentive and conscientious\\near, the rest of the party pretending not to understand the\\nlanguage, and adjourning to the horses and the dwarfs.\\nWe found a little bed, very mouldy-looking, and entirely\\nin keeping with the rest of the furniture, with old banners\\nfalling to decay draped about it, and here the porter slept\\nevery night, and sleeps still probably, keeping watch lest\\nthe Prussians, or the Free-Lances, or the Turks should", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0079.jp2"}, "80": {"fulltext": "40 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\ncarry off his wooden stud for heavy cavalry purposes, and\\nwhere no doubt he snores in peace (being somewhat\\napoplectic) after his supper of beer and sausages in the\\nlittle tea-garden establishment outside the gates, and\\ndreams that he is High Steward, and that Ferdinand and\\nPhilippina are waiting to receive a visit from the Konig-\\nliche Kaiser, and that there will be great feasting in the\\nland. In this age of scepticism an embodiment of a great\\nfaith is very awe-inspiring. We felt he conferred a favour\\non us when he accepted with dignity a gratuity at parting,\\nin the form of a two-florin piece.\\nOne evening we drove to Berg Isel, a pretty little\\nwooded plateau, the shooting-ground of the Jager regi-\\nment, containing a sort of restaaration and a beer-garden,\\nwhere we and some of our English friends sat under the\\ntrees round a little table, drinking lemonade to the music\\nof violins, and realising the simple pleasures of a primi-\\ntive existence, enhanced to the worthy burghers by the\\nadditional possibility of Jager bier. We did our duty in\\ngoing to the Museum, but being, some of us, only ac-\\nquainted with the ologies to a limited extent, were not\\nmuch edified except with the Hofer relics, which were\\nvery touching things to see. Amongst all the old dry-\\nas-dust collections, the products and practical good things\\nof Tyrol, the tin plate amulet, the last letter ever\\nwritten by that strong hand, the medal of St. Michael\\nwhich he wore on his breast when they shot him down", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0080.jp2"}, "81": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 41\\neven the old green braces, the vestiges of the peasant s\\ndress he gloried in are kept as the most sacred of\\ntreasures.\\nThat spendthrift Frederick, Count of Tyrol, whom we\\nsaw in the Hof-Kirche, looking solemnised, as befitted the\\noccasion, and staring gravely through his bronze mask,\\nwas a heedless fellow enough when living; and when\\ntwitted by some shrewd townsfolk as to his empty purse,\\ncovered the roof of a great oriel window looking on the\\nstreet with plates of gold, the whole conceit being valued\\nat a cost of some 30,000 ducats, for which it is more than\\nprobable the royal prodigal never paid. Das goldene\\nBach stands there now, a little dimmed by time, but still\\nresplendent, for the admiration of valets cle jplace and\\nwide-eyed tourists.\\nWe climbed on to the roof oi* our hotel, and walked\\nacross it, steadying ourselves on the rough edges of the\\ntiles, and watched the sunset light up the snow-hills like\\na great illumination and then, after one more night\\namidst civilisation, we started by train for Worgl, passing\\nthrough a station gay with green wreaths and banners in\\nhonour of the Emperor. The costumes of the people\\ncharmed us everywhere. On Sunday morning at Inns-\\nbruck we saw them at their brightest at a musical mass\\nin the Hof-Kirche the women in low-crowned hats with\\ngold and silver tassels, gay-coloured silk kerchief or\\nboddice, and white chemisette. They are a good-looking", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0081.jp2"}, "82": {"fulltext": "42 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nwell-grown race. Peasants from more distant districts\\nwere mingled with the town and country people and we\\nwatched many a picturesque old dame busy with her\\nrosary and prayer-book, in a heavy cap of sable, very\\nhandsome in effect, but uncomfortably hot one would\\nfancy to the wearer. As the train moved at the usual\\nsedate pace, we were able to secure many hasty sketches\\nof people and things. Very beautiful was the scene\\nchateaux crowning the wooded hills, cloisters half hidden\\namong the trees, churches with slender spires, coloured\\nnow deep red, now emerald green, according to the taste\\nof the parishioners, cosy little villages nestled at the foot\\nof the pine woods or on the summits of the lower slopes,\\nthe long lines of rail running close to the swift-flowing\\nriver, or crossing it over the many bridges on our route.\\nWe were travelling on a Whit Monday, and, though de-\\nbarred from the delights of c Clubs on the march, or\\nholiday-making Foresters at home, we found each little\\nstation crowded by peasants in brilliant festa dress, wait-\\ning to start or watching for travellers. A convoi of\\nsoldiers passed us the men looked in good heart, and\\nthere was a faint attempt at cheering from them and the\\npeople; but generally, during their transit, the troops\\nseemed packed into huge vans destitute of windows or\\nany openings in place of them, in which they were penned\\nlike cattle.\\nWhile we waited in an empty room at the Worgl sta-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0082.jp2"}, "83": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0083.jp2"}, "84": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0084.jp2"}, "85": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEEEING IN AN OMNIBUS. 43\\ntion, our father and F. hurried to the posthouse near by\\nto secure a carriage. This apartment strongly resembled\\nsimilar ones in England. There was a table and two or\\nthree chairs, and one of those long lists of trains, framed\\nand glazed, on the walls, which you feel helplessly bound\\nto read through from end to end. Altogether, the re-\\nsources at our disposal were of a negative kind. There\\nwas nothing to be seen from the window but some super-\\nannuated trucks, no provisions of any kind to be found\\non the premises, nothing but the table, the chairs, and a\\nthorough draught. But we had a certain supply of food\\nwith us. A tin of biscuits, which were to be kept for an\\nemergency, and some potted meat prepared in anticipa-\\ntion of a journey in the Dolomites, where, according to re-\\nport, Mehlspeise forms the sole subsistence of the inhabit-\\nants. This same potted meat gave us the greatest anxiety.\\nIt might only be eaten in limited portions till the Dolo-\\nmites were reached and it had become evident to every\\none that it would not keep. A large number of tin pots\\nhad been prepared, filled, and hermetically sealed with a\\npreparation of resin but the resin cracked, and then\\nmelted, and then became a dust, imperceptible and deadly,\\nwhich insinuated itself with sticky persistency into every-\\nthing within its reach. We had carefully packed the tins\\nin one side of a portmanteau, with cakes of preserved\\nsoup, bibles and picture-books for presents, a bottle of\\nink, a supply of chocolate, and a packet of arrowroot.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0085.jp2"}, "86": {"fulltext": "44\\nThe state of that portmanteau when the arrowroot ran\\nout of a hole in the paper and joined the resin, it were\\nvain to try to describe in words. One at a time the pots\\nwere extracted, and the contents handed round but with\\nthe escape of the resin the air had got in, and there was\\na layer of blue mould on the top which was anything\\nbut appetising, and which Mrs. C. daily eliminated with\\nunfailing perseverance, affirming that from constantly re-\\nsiding in a damp county she was accustomed to such\\nemergencies, and fully prepared to meet them.\\nMeanwhile the gentlemen returned with an enormous\\nStellwagen, which carried us on for the next three stages,\\nstopping at Elmau, where we dined, and painted flowers,\\nwhile the horses rested, gossiping with a pleasant Kellnerin,\\nwho kissed our hands most gratefully when we gave her\\na German gospel for strong Eoman Catholics as are all\\nthe people of Tyrol, we have never had one refused, and\\noften our little books have been accepted with the greatest\\ndelight.\\nThe days when a milord anglais drove through Europe\\nwith valet and courier to interpose between the wind\\nand his nobility, are happily over. Our countrymen and\\nwomen, when they travel, have begun to discover that the\\ndespised peasantry of the land are often as good, if not\\nbetter company than people they have left at home and\\ntravellers in search of a new sensation enjoy roughing it\\nfor a few weeks amongst the mountains, and are rather", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0086.jp2"}, "87": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 45\\nbored than otherwise by grand hotels and a good cuisine.\\nBut if we have come back to the archaics and the sim-\\nplicities of life, it is still only somewhat because fashion\\naffects primitive manners, and Marie-Antoinette has a\\nnew petit trianon. We are no nearer, in reality, to the\\nhearts and lives of the people and this we were earnest,\\nin our small measure, to achieve. It was easy for Mrs. C,\\nwho has an unlimited knowledge of the language, in every\\nshade of patois, to condole with the good Frauen over\\nthe sickness among the cows, the father s rheumatism,\\nor Madeleine s love affair with a Wildschiitz. Ordinary\\nmortals, whose talents are less brilliant, have to eke out\\ntheir remarks with smiles, or compassionate gestures but\\nit was pleasant to see how quickly a sympathy grew up\\nbetween you and the people, and to feel that you could\\nface the cold wind again all the better, for their warm\\nkindliness, which had so stirred your heart. Travelling\\nwith a limited amount of luggage, there is little to give\\naway, but small things seemed to make them happy.\\nEnglish knives or scissors, bright money, to be worn as\\na charm by happy-faced little children, proud to show\\nthe Konigin von England, books always a delight,\\npleasant pictures, and essays, and poems written for that\\nespecial class. A British Workman, or a Band of Hope,\\nis a great prize to those Germans, who are eager to learn\\na little English, from the Kutscher to boots at the\\nhotels and, above all, the bibles are very welcome and,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0087.jp2"}, "88": {"fulltext": "46 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nin lone mountain homes, who knows what store of blessing\\nand comfort and peace they may have brought to weary\\nhearts.\\nWe had been driving all that day from Worgl through\\na pleasant valley, well cultivated and sprinkled with\\ncottages and hamlets, and everywhere the Whit-Monday\\nfestivities went with us and met us, brightening all the\\nroad. There were quiet gatherings of the people at\\nfavourite trysting-places in one village a little country\\nfair was being held, the entertainments at which were\\nrestricted to beer, or very sweet strong coffee, sold at the\\nWirthshaus near by but there were three stalls with\\ncrockery and hardware, and leather harness, bright silk\\nhandkerchiefs, and long straw cords, plaited and twisted\\nin some neighbouring district. We patronised the Hutte\\nto the extent of some cords, and a few feathers with\\neagles beaks, set in Tyrol fashion. There was a crowd\\nof old men standing about smoking and talking, but the\\nstrength of the nation had been carried off to the wars,\\nthe conscription telling heavily in these thinly-populated\\ndistricts.\\nOnce more we slept in a country inn, where, however,\\nthe Wirthin was to the fore. A brisk, pleasant woman,\\nwho managed her household with spirit and good temper,\\ngave us good homespun linen and a capital supper,\\nprepared by one or two cooks in a great vaulted kitchen,\\nwhom we watched at their work, as they stood round a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0088.jp2"}, "89": {"fulltext": "IIP JmP^\\n-J\\n1", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0089.jp2"}, "90": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0090.jp2"}, "91": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 47\\nlow stove about five feet square, in which were little\\novens, and on which at pleasure a fire could be lighted.\\nThe Hausfrau carried her keys slung at her girdle, and\\nwore a dozen petticoats, to judge from the size of her\\nskirt, which she assured us was guiltless of crinoline, and\\n6 all solid. Our rooms were most comfortable, spacious,\\nhandsomely furnished, and exquisitely clean we had\\na very good Ahendessen, with meat and eggs and coffee,\\nbreakfast of the same, hot or cold baths, fires in all the\\nstoves, and for our party of seven (including the guide),\\nthe whole charge was only eight Gulden.\\nThere was the same battle the next morning between\\nfrost and wind and sunshine, and, of course, it was two\\nto one against anything like warmth. We set out for a\\ngood tramp, leaving Christian and the luggage and the\\nomnibus to follow us, while we jodeled and shouted to\\nthe echoes, ran races for the benefit of our half-frozen\\nfeet, and gathered great branches of ferns and flowers,\\nmasses of cistus, and gentians as large as the finest garden\\nblossoms in England there were myriads of heartsease,\\ngolden or purple, making large tracts of land brilliant\\nwith their colouring country carts and carriages, marvel-\\nlous to behold, passed us, and droves of goats and cows,\\ntheir drivers resting under the trees. We climbed a very\\nsteep hill, which brought us to the frontier the wooden\\nbars painted black and yellow were left behind, and\\nBavarian white and blue appeared in sight. There were", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0091.jp2"}, "92": {"fulltext": "48 BREAKING THE ICE, OK\\npolite officials, who graciously permitted us to enter the\\nlittle kingdom, dignified characters who would not con-\\ndescend to ask for our passports, but greeted us with a\\nwave of the hand, which said as plainly as words, pass\\npass our souls are too big for the meanness of mistrust\\nconsider yourselves saluted, and spare us the necessity of\\nremoving our pipes in order to speak to you\\nWe rested in the inn near by; warmed our frozen limbs\\nwith hot mulled wine, a capital invention, as the sour red\\nwine of the country, which it would be utterly impos-\\nsible to drink except during the greatest heat of summer,\\nwhen warmed and well sweetened, is very good, and serves\\nas a capital luncheon with fresh bread, which we could\\nalmost always procure. From the high ridge on which\\nthe Wirthshaus stood, we had a glorious view of the plain\\nwe had just crossed, little valleys, wooded hills, and distant\\nmountains, with the soft powdering of yellow green over\\nthe landscape, which comes when the first sunshine has\\ntouched the boughs in spring. The long grass in the\\nfields waved in the wind, with white and grey lights and\\nshadows upon it, as the clouds passed across the sky, and\\nin contrast to the golden beeches, each tiny leaf looked\\nblue and emerald through the glitter of its frost and dew.\\nThe divisions of these inland countries are always\\nstrange things to contemplate when Nature has not herself\\narranged the boundaries, and thrown-up a great wall, like\\nthe Pyrenees, or formed a natural moat like the Ehine.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0092.jp2"}, "93": {"fulltext": "Mt3 C ruiYiplcttas el hie. C\u00c2\u00abW", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0093.jp2"}, "94": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0094.jp2"}, "95": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN AN OMNIBUS. 49\\nHere, at Melleek, one seemed to go up stairs into Bavaria,\\nso sudden and steep was the ascent of the hill on the\\nsummit of which the frontier was marked out. Austria\\nlay below, secure in her possession as owner of the ground,\\nwhile little Baiern appeared to have contented herself\\nwith a lodging au premier. But a half-hour s drive\\ndispelled our illusions. Valleys and hills once more\\nstretched in broken undulations around us, and there was\\nnothing to tell us that we were now under the dominion\\nof King Ludwig, except, indeed, a fresh collection of\\nfamily portraits in the inns on our route.\\nWe had become intimately acquainted with the Emperor\\nand Empress in every possible attitude and costume, and\\ncould tell at what particular date the Kaiser had begun to\\nshave, when he married, and the different fashions of the\\nbeautiful Kaiserin s robes and jewels. It was pleasant to\\nsee with what affection and loyalty the people everywhere\\ntreasured these pictures, and how much some of the very\\npoor peasants must have expended on such memorials, which\\nwere always hung in the place of honour, with, among the\\nbetter class of innkeepers, a portrait in oils, magnificently\\nout of drawing, and in which the artist had given a minute\\nattention to the family gems, ignoring such trivialities\\nas features or expression; fine old Wirths and Wirthins,\\nwith any number of chins, smiling and rubicund, with\\none eye fixing you with a glassy stare on your entrance,\\nand their hands complacently folded over their capacious", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0095.jp2"}, "96": {"fulltext": "50 BREAKING THE ICE, OR\\nwaists. Here and there, in quite out-of-the-way places\\namongst the mountains, we have seen some fine studies\\na Grood Shepherd, or a e Madonna, full of pathetic beauty,\\nthat make one wonder how they ever reached such poor\\nlittle nooks and corners of the world. Perhaps some young\\nartist, travelling to a great city, where he was to gain fame\\nand bread, may have lingered at the wayside inn, and\\npainted a picture for love of the soft-eyed model he had\\nfound there, or for the more prosaic reason that he was\\nhimself without a Zwanziger wherewith to pay his bill\\nBut meantime, on this 22nd of May we were journeying\\non our way towards Berchtesgaden, the horses trotting on\\nbriskly, eager to reach Eeichenhall, the end of their stage,\\nthe old Stellwagen and the seven travellers lumbering\\nbehind them. There was something to us infinitely comic\\nin thus wandering over the mountains in an omnibus,\\nour preconceived notions of Tyrol travelling being based\\nupon Swiss experiences, as far at least as the ladies of the\\nparty were concerned. All the good roads, which are to be\\nfound everywhere in Austria and Bavaria, make the style\\nof locomotion of course utterly different to anything we\\nhad considered properly f Alpine.\\nThe country through which we passed was wonderfully\\nbeautiful, the scene changing each moment as the good\\nbroad road wound leisurely round the hills. Now and then\\nwe turned suddenly into a narrow gorge, where grand cliffs\\ntowered above us, the pines clinging to their sides, while", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0096.jp2"}, "97": {"fulltext": "m\\nt=a r\\nS- .^ohonn", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0097.jp2"}, "98": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0098.jp2"}, "99": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERINGS IN AN OMNIBUS. 51\\nwe looked down through a foreground of soft grass, bright\\nwith flowers and studded with stones covered with moss\\nand ferns, to the clear green water splashing over the\\npebbles far below, and shining between masses of foliage,\\nacacias, larches, and firs, which clothed the foot of the\\nhills with endless shades of colour. The villages were\\nvery Swiss-like, with their broad roofs and pretty wooden\\nbalconies. We drew up at a big overgrown hotel in\\nEeichenhall, to which the saltworks, for which the place\\nis famous, bring, no doubt, many guests, mercantile and\\nothers. Here we had to wait for two hours while some-\\nthing in the shape of a carriage was hunted out, Stelhvdgen\\nhaving apparently ceased out of the land, as far as they\\nrelated to private enterprise.\\nWe whiled away the time by translating the last Allge-\\nraeine Zeitung, and trying to discover some glimmer of\\nfact and reality amongst the cautious fogginess and wonder-\\nful word-transpositions in which a Grerman editor delights.\\nIf language had been given us to conceal ideas, truly a\\nhigh and mighty Prussian or Austrian newspaper contri-\\nbutor would come out as a double first in a competitive\\nexamination, and Monsieur Talleyrand, if he had only\\nlived long enough to know him, might have requested\\nthe pleasure of shaking hands with him, on his having\\nattained to such a rank in literature. A walk through the\\nstreets proved utterly unexciting, and the shops, if possible,\\nmore so. Dinner and a heavy snow storm occupied another", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0099.jp2"}, "100": {"fulltext": "~)2 BKEAKING THE ICE.\\nhour, and before we left we were much interested in watch-\\ning a strange and motley procession, ecclesiastical in the\\nmatter of priests and candles, but apparently combining\\nevery grade of citizen and citizeness who had any preten-\\nsions to piety. It is sad to realise the inevitable truth that\\nsuperstition and scepticism go hand-in-hand. Those who\\ndid not take part in the demonstration sneered at it rather\\nscornfully. There were men who carried tapers, little girls\\nin white and blue with wreaths round their hair, support-\\ning a platform, on which a great Madonna sat enthroned,\\na mighty show of banners, images of saints, then trumpets\\nand the Host under a canopy, and priests, nuns, and\\nacolytes, rubbing their chilled fingers as they told their\\nbeads, or chanting lustily. Bread was given away to the\\npeople, and old women, looking pinched with cold, and\\nwith very red eyes and noses, hobbled on, each with a\\nlong flat loaf under u her arm, and covered, poor old souls,\\nwith the heavy snowflakes which fell thicker and faster as\\nwe drove out of the town, hastening on our way to pleasant\\nBerchtesgaden and a week s wandering amongst the valleys\\nof the Salzkammergut.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0100.jp2"}, "101": {"fulltext": "NOTES\\nON\\nTHE PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOE\\nWITH\\nTHE ASCENT OF THE SIONALKUPPE.\\nLook what streaks\\nDo lace the severing clouds in yonder east.\\nNight s tapers are burnt out, and jocund day\\nStands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops.\\nShakspeare.\\nHere we go up, up, up\\nHere we go down, down, down!\\nNursery Rhyme.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0101.jp2"}, "102": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0102.jp2"}, "103": {"fulltext": "NOTES ON THE PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOR,\\nWITH THE ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE.\\nON June 15, 1861, accompanied by two friends, C. and\\nW., and with the trusty J. J. Bennen a.nd Peter Perm\\nas guides, I crossed from Zermatt to Gressonay by the\\nLys Joch, an account of the first passage of which by\\nMr. W. Mathews appears in the second series of i Peaks,\\nPasses, and Grlaciers.\\nThe 16th being Sunday, we spent quietly chez Dela-\\npierre, and, on the following day, crossed the Col Val-\\ndobbia to Kiva. Thence we proceeded to Alagna, and in\\nthe afternoon went over the Col di Moud, a pass between\\nthe Moudhorn or Cima di Moud and Tagliaferro (7,467\\nfeet in height by the sympiesometer), to Eima at the head\\nof the west branch of the Val Sermenta, and so to Rimasco\\nat the point where the valley divides. Here, at the little\\nalbergo, we found good intentions in abundance; but\\npaving materials make poor fare, and, without disrespect\\nto our worthy well-meaning host, I must confess that the\\nquarters are not a Capua, though, of course, good enough\\nfor Alpine Clubbists.\\nE 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0103.jp2"}, "104": {"fulltext": "5G PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOR,\\nOn the 18th, a delightful stroll of two easy hours in the\\nearly morning by the side of a clear, flashing trout-stream,\\nwhich descends the left or east branch of the Val Sermenta,\\nbrought us to Carcoforo, where, to our surprise, we came\\nupon a most cozy little cabaret, kept by one Pietro Ber-\\ntolini. Good wine, milk, cheese, honey, bread, and two\\nbeds are to be obtained, and, what is far better, great\\ncivility and real cleanliness, as far as our observations\\nwent. Our object being only to reach Ponte Grande, we\\ndetermined to enjoy ourselves at our leisure, and so con-\\ntrived to while away an hour in a second breakfast, and\\ntwo more in the most lazy and luxuriant ascent of the\\ngrassy slopes of the Col d Eigua, the summit of which we\\ngained soon after twelve. The height, by a sympiesometer\\nobservation, comes out 7,394.8 feet, agreeing very nearly\\nwith Studer s determination, 7,382. The view from the\\npass is a very lovely one, but ten minutes climb to a rocky\\nsummit on the south-east is well worth so trifling an effort.\\nMonte Eosa is seen rising almost due west in great majesty,\\nand in our subsequent passage of the ridge which connects\\nit with the Cima di Jazi we derived great benefit from the\\nobservations which we were here able to make. On the\\nnorth-east side, at a point several hundred feet lower, the\\nCol di Barranca, at the head of the Val Mastalone, is passed\\non the right, and the path then continues down through a\\nsuccession of lovely scenes, the beauty of which can hardly\\nbe surpassed. Ferns in profusion, magnificent rhododen-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0104.jp2"}, "105": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 57\\ndrons and wild laburnums in full bloom gradually gave\\nplace to walnuts and chestnuts of royal dimensions, vines,\\nand maize, whilst fine pine-woods crowned the heights,\\nin silent vigil, keeping watch and ward over the happy\\nvalley. In such spots the traveller s object is not so\\nmuch progression as loitering and, instead of boasting\\nthat we accomplished this distance in such and such a\\nremarkably short time, I feel a greater pride in saying\\nthat after spending an hour and a half on the summit, we\\ncontrived to while away four more between it and Ponte\\nGrande. A fast walker would probably accomplish the\\ndistance from Eimasco to Carcoforo easily in an hour and\\na half; thence to the summit of the pass in an hour and a\\nhalf more, and down to Ponte Grande in two hours and a\\nhalf, or five hours and a half in all. We found excellent\\nquarters at Ponte Grande in the hotel and pension of the\\nsame name, and on the 19th strolled up to Macugnaga,\\ndevoting an hour or two en route to a pretty complete\\nexploration of the Pestarena gold mine. This is worth a\\nvisit, but I must not here attempt a description of its\\nreally extraordinary galleries, or the marvellously cum-\\nbrous machinery, groaning, creaking, straining and wheez-\\ning in the bowels of the earth. As an illustration of the\\nantiquated state of things,* I may just mention, however,\\nthat the ore, instead of being crushed by stamps, the\\nwater-power necessary for which is close at hand in any\\nWritten in 1861.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0105.jp2"}, "106": {"fulltext": "58 PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOR,\\namount, was all broken by band, in a dark, dirty room,\\nwhere three or four grimy and wretched-looking objects\\nwere seated before piles which they were slowly and\\nlaboriously reducing to smaller dimensions by blows of a\\nhammer.\\nWe had originally intended to return to Zermatt by\\nthe Weissthor pass as now usually taken to the north of\\nthe Cima di Jazi, but I had long been anxious to lay the\\nghost of the Old Weissthor if ever the chance came in\\nmy way and as Macugnaga was a better starting-point\\nfor the attempt than Zermatt, it was resolved that we\\nwould at least make the attempt, wind and weather\\npermitting.\\nOur reconnaisance from the summit above the Col\\nd Eigua had led us to the conclusion that, in the actual\\nstate of the neve crowning the ridge, a passage would be\\nmost easily effected at a point in the long rocky wall con-\\nnecting the Cima with the Nordend, not far from the\\nformer summit. From our point. of view the Jazi glacier\\nwas hidden, but just above where we knew it must be, a\\nbroad couloir ran up for a distance of 1,000 feet or more,\\nslightly bending to the right. It then divided, sending\\nup (if I may be allowed such an inversion of ideas) a\\nbranch to the left of considerable width, and a second and\\nnarrower one to the right. The first continued without a\\nbreak to the summit, but there the overhanging masses\\nof neve appeared likely to give much trouble, if not bar", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0106.jp2"}, "107": {"fulltext": "\\\\^/^T^T-\\nX^tonnoi ring-\\n5 4 5-a.-m. rfie-iT cample-^iims ttffin to -S U-ff", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0107.jp2"}, "108": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0108.jp2"}, "109": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 59\\nfurther progress, and we therefore turned our attention to\\nthe second and more northerly one. Half-way between\\nits commencement and the sky-line it again bifurcated,\\nand there seemed every reason to hope that its left arm\\nwould afford the means of gaining the crest. As the\\nascent proved, this is yet another instance of the great\\nutility of a careful examination of a doubtful route before-\\nhand for, though I will not venture to assert positively\\nthat in no other way than this could our variation of the\\nOld Weissthor have been accomplished, yet the rapidity\\nand ease with which it was done were mainly due to\\nour having previously made ourselves familiar with the\\nground.\\nArrived at Macugnaga, we lost no time in making pre-\\nparations for the morrow, and were ably seconded by\\nour host of the Moro. On inquiring for some one to\\ntake our knapsacks round to Zermatt over the Moro, we\\nwere informed that there were two or three men then\\nworking in the inn who had also a great hankering to ac-\\ncomplish the Old Weissthor. How long this desire had\\nexisted on their part we did not inquire, but it was soon\\narranged to our mutual satisfaction that two of them\\nshould come as porters with us to the summit, whence\\nwe could easily manage the knapsacks among our own\\nparty, whilst they returned by the New Weissthor. The\\npay was to be fifteen francs for the two, we finding\\nprovisions for one only, as the other came less because", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0109.jp2"}, "110": {"fulltext": "60\\nwe needed him than because his comrade did not like\\nreturning alone. The names of the men were Jean\\nBaptiste Andermatt and Bartholomee Burgner, of Saas,\\nand both, I may add, acquitted themselves to our entire\\nsatisfaction.\\nMonte Rosa withdrew behind the clouds towards even-\\ning, and as there was therefore nothing particular to de-\\ntain us and good reason for retiring early, I must plead\\nguilty to having turned in at the unconscionable hour of\\nseven o clock.\\nAt 12.15 a.m. on the 20th we were up, and though a\\nhaze hung over the valley, which was black as pitch, it\\nsomehow felt like clearing up, and I had a comfortable\\nsense that we should succeed. Breakfast was soon dis-\\npatched, and at 1.25 we wished our host good-bye, and\\nunder the guidance of the men of Saas, one of whom\\ncarried a lantern to be left till called for at the Jazi\\nAlp, traversed as rapidly as circumstances would permit\\nthe beautiful meadows above Macugnaga. The hamlet of\\nPecceto was soon reached, and the bridge over one branch\\nof the Anza was successfully hit by our leader but the\\nwaste ground at the foot of the moraine led us into\\ndifficulties, and in the deep darkness, the lantern served\\nonly to make confusion worse confounded. The men de-\\nclared at length that we were where the bridge ought to\\nbe; but there, before us, was the roaring stream with only\\na few bits of logs stickiug up through its turbid waters.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0110.jp2"}, "111": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 61\\nIt was vexing to meet with a check so early, and for some\\ntime it realty did appear as though we should have to\\nwait for daylight to extricate ourselves. After poking\\nabout in various directions, however, each man following\\nhis own devices, we at length effected a passage at the point\\nwhere the stream quitted the glacier, though not without\\nsundry immersions and hearty laughter. Spite of the\\ndelay thus occasioned, we gained the summit of the Bel-\\nvedere (which is close to the spot marked i Beim See in\\nthe Schlagintweits Map) at 3, and crossing diagonally the\\nnorthern arm of the Macugnaga glacier, formed by the\\nunion of the Nordend tributary with a portion of that from\\nthe Hochste Spitze, reached at 3.20 the path leading\\nalong the summit of the lateral moraine, just where the\\ne struggle for existence is becoming too much for some\\nunhappy-looking fir trees picketed out here on the out-\\nskirts of vegetation. The mists now rose, disclosing\\ngrandly the vast amphitheatre so well known, yet so im-\\npossible to describe in adequate language and every\\nminute gave fresh assurance that, so far as weather was\\nconcerned, we had everything to hope.\\nLeaving the Eofelstaffel Alp on the right, we arrived,\\nat 3.40, at the bottom of the slope of the Jazi Alp, facing\\nthe glacier of the same name and scanning the great\\nwall before us, were glad to perceive that our distant survey\\nappeared to be entirely confirmed by a closer examination\\nwhilst, as now seen, the slope seemed less formidably", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0111.jp2"}, "112": {"fulltext": "62 PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOE,\\nsteep than when viewed from a higher point. Striking off\\nat right angles to our previous course, we soon entered\\nupon the Jazi glacier, which was covered with firm snow\\nand debris of avalanches, and afforded excellent footing.\\nHaving reached some rocks a few hundred feet above its\\nfoot, we halted at 4 a.m. to take a second breakfast and\\nwatch the hues of sunrise spreading over Monte Rosa.\\nTen minutes and a keen appetite sufficed to lighten\\nconsiderably our provision-sack, and we were soon again\\nunder way. Nothing could be more perfect than the snow,\\nnothing more exquisitely beautiful than the scene; the\\nguides caught our enthusiasm, and all bending to the task\\nwith a will, we ground steadily upwards, the slope increas-\\ning from 30\u00c2\u00b0 to 35\u00c2\u00b0 and 40\u00c2\u00b0, till 4.45, when a clear stream\\ncoming down from the cliffs of the Cima offered a tempta-\\ntion that was not to be resisted, and we revelled for a few\\nminutes in the unlooked-for luxury. We were now working\\nup the broad couloir, filled with snow and avalanche\\ndebris, which, as it descends, gradually spreads out like a\\nfan, and is transmuted into the Jazi glacier, of which it\\nsupplies the neve. To the right were the cliffs of the\\nCima, all adrip with streamlets. Next came the re-\\nentering angle of the vast mountain fortress, of which\\nthe Cima may be termed the bastion, and the ridge con-\\nnecting it with Monte Rosa the curtain; whilst imme-\\ndiately in our front, and at no great height above us, was\\nthe point previously described, where the main or trunk", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0112.jp2"}, "113": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 63\\ncouloir divides into two smaller ones, of which the left\\nhand and broader one appears to run up without a break\\nto the crest of the pass, whilst its companion subdivides\\nabout midway.\\nThe first point of bifurcation was reached at 5.45, when\\nthe sun struck us, and, as the fresh snow was very\\ndazzling, we again halted for a few minutes to put on\\nspectacles, c. The slope here was about 40\u00c2\u00b0, but became\\nsteeper as we advanced, and was ploughed up by two im-\\nmense furrows or avalanche-shoots, six or eight feet deep,\\nand four or five wide, evidence of the fire of stones which,\\nno doubt, goes on here as soon as the sun makes itself\\nfelt. Even at this early hour, a puff of snow or a few\\nsplinters of rock would break away above and come flying\\ndown; but here the furrows proved of real assistance in\\nlimiting the lateral deviation of the falling masses, and\\nby keeping to the ridges, the risk was much lessened.\\nI have already mentioned the streamlets from the Cima\\ndi Jazi. These are really quite a specialite of this pass,\\nand, I need not say, a most agreeable one. At 6.30, after\\nanother bout of steady climbing for three-quarters of an\\nhour, the slope increasing to 45\u00c2\u00b0, another bright, sparkling\\nstream came rollicking down on our right and as there\\nwas a strip of shade here, and human nature could not\\nresist the united attractions of this sheltering rock, de-\\nlicious water, and a view of such exquisite beauty, we\\nfairly cast prudential considerations aside, and perched", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0113.jp2"}, "114": {"fulltext": "64 PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOR,\\nin various unbecoming attitudes, scarcely more suggestive\\nof otium than dignitas, with the intention of thoroughly\\nenjoying ourselves. Time flew by, and it was half an hour\\nbefore we could effect a start. At last, however, we were\\noff at seven o clock, and the couloir becoming increasingly\\nsteep (I measured 47\u00c2\u00b0 with the clinometer), whilst, from\\nthe greater softness of the snow, the footing was less\\nsecure, we occasionally quitted it for the rocks on one or\\nthe other bank. Our party being a large one, seven in\\nall, our progress was slow, as the rocks were much dis-\\nintegrated, coming away in the hand, and requiring great\\ncare on the part of those in front. Everyone knows how\\nmuch time is consumed when every other step is a\\nmauvais pas, 9 and all have to wait for each. We had,\\nhowever, gained a great height by this time it was still\\nearly, and there was no great hardship in having to pause\\nevery half minute for some backslider below, and employ\\nthe time in endeavouring to digest the details of the\\nglorious. cirq ue, to one of whose walls we were clinging.\\nI have no note of the exact time, but I think it must have\\nbeen considerably after eight o clock, when we found our-\\nselves at the point where the couloir again divided.\\nwas strongly in favour of keeping up the left arm, but\\nBennen, who had had a touch of his beloved rocks, and\\nwas not to be cheated out of a good Rlettemf maintained\\nthat we had better keep up the Scheidewand, 9 or rock\\ndividing the two branches. I was in too contented a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0114.jp2"}, "115": {"fulltext": "Grinding sl tad\\nl)y u.pwa.Tcls\\nu)l iijtTi l cum ciitt-nifafe.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0115.jp2"}, "116": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0116.jp2"}, "117": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0117.jp2"}, "118": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0118.jp2"}, "119": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 65\\nframe of mind to contend with him, and though privately\\nI believed him to be wrong, it was probable that nothing-\\nworse than loss of time would result from our taking\\nthe track he proposed, whilst the scramble would prove\\na pleasant contrast to the treadmill monotony of a pro-\\nlonged couloir-grind. So, at the rock we went. It was\\nsteep, frightfully steep I might say, were it not that in\\ntruth there was nothing really frightful about it, but hand\\nover hand we climbed steadily up it till, turning a corner,\\nI ran into Perm, who ran into Bennen, who came to a\\nstop and looked puzzled. Eight and left of us were the\\ntwo branches of the couloir at a considerable depth\\nbeneath the ridge up which we had been coming had a\\nfacial angle of about 60\u00c2\u00b0, and just in front of us an\\nadventurous bit of snow had quitted its parent plateau\\nabove, and crept foolishly down the very edges of the\\nKamm on a voyage of discovery. To attack it en face\\nand walk over its back was simply impossible, and there\\nseemed so little chance of turning it by a flank move-\\nment, that I began triumphantly to rally Bennen, and\\ninsinuate that if he had let himself be persuaded by me\\nand stuck to the couloir, we should have been on the\\nsummit ere this. He was not to be baulked, however, in\\nthis way, and at once made a dash at the right side of the\\nslope, cut, kicked, and stamped his way to a bit of pro-\\njecting rock, and after repeated fruitless struggles dragged\\nhimself up it by sheer force of muscle or magnetic", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0119.jp2"}, "120": {"fulltext": "G6 PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOK,\\naffinity. Securing a footing, he then helped Perm to\\nfollow, and the two having anchored themselves firmly\\nand reported that the summit was only a few yards\\nabove, I followed, and leaving them to assist the rest of\\nthe party, loosed the rope, passed on, and found myself in\\nanother minute face to face with the Matterhorn.\\nIt was some time before the whole party were landed on\\nthe ridge (9.30 in fact), and very curious it was to watch\\nthem hauled up one after another from space. Meanwhile,\\nI set up my barometer and reconnoitred the couloir a few\\npaces to the S., which presented no difficulties of a serious\\ncharacter. Even Bennen admitted that he was out in his\\njudgment, whilst I conceded that I was thoroughly satisfied\\nwith the variety and excitement of the course we had\\ntaken, though it probably cost us at least three-quarters of\\nan hour of additional work. As it was, we had been eight\\nhours en route. Now, I think for various reasons there\\ncan be no doubt that this pass presents less difficulties\\nwhen taken from Macugnaga, than it would do if attacked\\nfrom the Zermatt side, but in the state in ivhich we found\\nthe snoiv, I believe it would have been perfectly easy, after\\ntraversing the first 500 feet with care, to glissade down the\\nremainder of the slopes to the Macugnaga glacier. In this\\nway, an hour would probably have sufficed to effect the\\nentire descent, and two more would be ample to allow for\\nreaching Macugnaga. As the summit of the pass could be\\nreached in about four hours from the Eiffel if the snow", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0120.jp2"}, "121": {"fulltext": "tiTt-c- minultj\\nence and Sh\u00c2\u00abv e.T\u00c2\u00a3", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0121.jp2"}, "122": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0122.jp2"}, "123": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 67\\nwere in good order, it will be seen that seven hours would\\nsuffice, under favourable circumstances, to effect the passage.\\nThus, had we quitted the Eiffel as early as we had started\\nfrom Macugnaga, we might have arrived at the latter place\\nto a half-past eight o clock breakfast. To one, however,\\nsuddenly reaching the brink of these tremendous preci-\\npices after traversing for some hours gently undulating\\nsnow-fields, the first impression would be unsatisfactory\\nand startling, and I do not therefore much wonder at the\\nZermatt guides, who are most familiar with the aspect of\\nthings as seen from the Cima, being discouraged thereby\\nand reporting that the glacier^had fallen in.\\nWe spent 1 J hour on the summit in the highest spirits,\\nthen bade adieu to our porters, who went merrily off to\\nreturn by the New Weissthor, waking up the echoes with\\ntheir jubilant jodelings, and at 10.45 started ourselves for\\nZermatt. My barometrical observation gives for the height\\nof the pass 11,976.3 feet. A. Schlagintweit makes his col\\n11,870.3, whilst M. Betemps puts it at 11,733 and the New\\nWeissthor at 11,851, and Plantamour makes the highest\\npoint between the Cima and Monte Eosa 11,862 (^Mesures\\nhypsometriques, page 5).\\nThe day was still before us, the sky almost cloudless, and\\nthere was no occasion for hurry, so we strolled leisurely\\ndown, halting every now and then, and at 2.30 reached the\\nEiffel, and Zermatt shortly afterwards. The total time\\nwas thirteen hours, during only nine of which, however, we", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0123.jp2"}, "124": {"fulltext": "68\\nwere actually en route. I have made no allusion to the\\nview from the summit, because, being extremely similar to\\nthat from the Cima, it is familiar to most mountaineers.*\\nOn the 21st we lounged vigorously, strolling up to the\\nEiffel in the evening accompanied by another English-\\nman who had designs upon the Cima for the next day,\\nwhilst we were bound for the Lyskamm, or some similar\\nascent, Kronig, however, whom he had engaged, was\\nanxious to be with us if anything of a novel description\\nwas in hand, and his employer gradually catching the\\ninfection, it was soon settled that we should not sepa-\\nrate.\\nAt 12.20 on the morning of the 22nd, we got away\\nin glorious moonlight, and following our tracks of that\\nday week, reached, for the second time, the Lys Joch at\\n7.40, having had shade up to seven o clock. The wind was\\nLater in the season Professor Tyndall effected the passage of the Old\\nWeissthor from Macugnaga to Zermatt, accompanied as usual by Bennen,\\nand has given an interesting account of the expedition in his Mountaineer-\\ning in 1861. On this occasion, however, the direction of the Filar instead\\nof that of the Jazi glacier was chosen for the attack. The ice appears to\\nhave been soon quitted for the ridge of rocks to the N., by which the\\nsummit was gained after a most exciting climb of four hours. At times it\\nseemed as though further progress were impossible, and Bennen would\\npause in discouragement but this was only momentary, and returning to\\nthe charge their efforts were ultimately crowned with success. It is\\ndangerous to criticise the proceedings of two such veteran climbers, but I\\nwould venture to hint that their proficiency as cragsmen may have led to\\ntheir preferring the rocks to the adjacent couloir or slopes of snow and ico,\\nand that these last would possibly have afforded greater facilities whilst\\ninvolving less risk.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0124.jp2"}, "125": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 69\\nblowing a gale, and after a carefnl examination it was\\ndecided that the long arete of the Lyskamm, narrow enough\\nat the best of times but now heaped up and rolling over\\nwith the fresh and uncompacted snow, was not to be\\nthought of under the circumstances. Some of the party\\nwere already suffering from the cold, and poor Mr.\\nhaving neglected to provide himself with properly nailed\\nboots, was constantly performing eccentric manoeuvres, the\\nmost successful of which consisted of a pas cle deux with\\nKronig, who, in his endeavours to hold up his slippery\\nemployer, invariably came in for a share of his misfortunes.\\nBefore, however, finally giving in, we worked our way for\\na distance of some few hundred yards towards the Lys-\\nkamm, and then halted in a slightly sheltered depression\\nof the ridge to secure a second breakfast and decide\\nwhere we should next bend our steps. Eemembering\\nthat, under similar circumstances, Mr. Stephen had made\\na dash at the Zumstein Spitze, I at length suggested\\nthat we should attack the Signalkuppe, which, so far as I\\nknow, had never been ascended before from the Zermatt,\\nand only once from the southern, side, when in 1842\\nGrnifetti, cure of Alagna, arrived with seven companions\\non the summit, after three ineffectual attempts in previous\\nyears. No sooner said than set about, and at 8.30 we\\nwere once more in movement. At 8.45 the Lys Joch was\\nagain reached, and gently ascending over the great Plateau,\\nor Krone, between the Zumstein, Signal, Parrot, and", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0125.jp2"}, "126": {"fulltext": "0 PASSAGE OF THE OLD WEISSTHOR,\\nLudwig, summits of Monte Kosa, we soon found ourselves\\nat the foot of the final pull. This was rapid, but by\\nmaking first for a sort of snowy saddle connecting the\\nZumstein Spitze and Signalkuppe, we avoided the steepest\\nplaces, and, the snow being besides in excellent order,\\nthere was no sort of difficulty.\\nIf, however, poor Mr. had been in trouble before,\\nhe was here fairly posed Kronig was knocked down so\\nmany times as to cause anxious reflections on the probable\\nstate of his knees, and at one time we had serious thoughts\\nof abandoning our unlucky comrade to his fate. He, how-\\never, struggled so gallantly, was so perfectly good-tempered,\\nlaughed so heartily at every fresh capsize, and showed such\\ninnate pluck and vigour, that we could not allow him to\\nfall a victim to his defective shoeing, especially as we had\\npersuaded him to attempt what otherwise would never\\nhave entered his head. What, however, with laughter,\\nblustering wind, and driving snow, it was not easy, with\\nthe best intentions, to know how to assist him but at\\nlength, leaving Bennen and Perm free to cut or pound\\nsteps, and Kronig to bring up the rear and pick up his\\nHerr as often as was needful, we three fairly put our-\\nselves in the traces, and by main force dragged our helpless\\nfriend sometimes on his back, sometimes on his face, now\\non one side, and now on the other, but always up-hill, as\\nfar as the rocks just below the summit, where he at once\\nfound his legs again. It was 10.15 when the summit of", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0126.jp2"}, "127": {"fulltext": "Down again", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0127.jp2"}, "128": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0128.jp2"}, "129": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 7 J\\nthe Signalkuppe was gained, and ample was the reward.\\nWe could now look over the Lyskamm, which we over-\\ntopped by 75 feet, the altitudes being respectively (ac-\\ncording to the Federal engineers) 14,964 and 14,889 feet.\\nThis I can confirm to a certain extent by an observation\\ntaken on our way back, with a portable level which, after I\\nhad descended what I estimated to be 50 or 60 feet,\\nshowed the Lyskamm to be still slightly below my station.\\nThe wind blew furiously, but the sun shone out, and the\\nthermometer, sheltered behind the rock, indicated as high\\na temperature as 1\u00c2\u00b0 C 33\u00c2\u00b0.8 Fahr). Nothing, however,\\nis less to be relied on than the readings of this instrument\\nin determining what I may perhaps call the amount of\\nsensational or physiological cold, and by the time I had\\nsecured a sympiesometer observation, obtained a specimen\\nof the summit, and had a good look at the glorious view,\\nit was voted that this house do adjourn. Of the view I\\nneed not speak here, as in its general features it resembles\\nthat from the Hochste Spitze, differing from it, however,\\nin one remarkable particular. To those who are familiar\\nwith the atlas to the Schlagintweits work it is well known\\nthat the Signalkuppe, the fourth in height of the sum-\\nmits of Monte Eosa, stands at the point where the chain\\nmakes a sudden bend, the north arm comprising the\\nNordend, Hochste Spitze, and Zumstein Spitze, whilst the\\nsouthern includes the Parrotspitze, Ludwigshohe, Schwarz-\\nhorn, Balmenhorn, and Vincentpyramide. The direction\\nF 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0129.jp2"}, "130": {"fulltext": "72\\nof the former is N. 20\u00c2\u00b0 W., of the latter S. 13\u00c2\u00b0 W. The\\nSignalkuppe is thus the salient of a very obtuse bastion\\nwhose N.E. and S.W. faces command respectively the\\nVals Anzasca and Sesia, whilst to the N.W. its reverse\\nrakes, between the Lyskamm and Hochste Spitze, the\\nentire length of the Gorner glacier, and on the S.W. the\\nbasin of the Lys glacier and the lower portion of the\\nVal de Lys. In fact it is, as a glance at the map will\\nshow, the real nucleus of the whole system, which has as it\\nwere crystallised out from it, and it will be at once seen\\nthat this gives it great advantages as a point of view.\\nThe Hochste Spitze of course conceals a certain portion of\\nthe horizon much less, however, than might be supposed,\\nfor as far as my memory serves me, the Dom, Taschhorn,\\nand other summits between them and the Nordend are the\\nonly important absentees, and these happen to be less in-\\nteresting features perhaps than most in the panorama.\\nThe Zumstein is projected against the Hochste Spitze and\\nthe lateral deviation of the Nordend is not sufficient to\\ncause much loss. At 10.30 we commenced the descent,\\nand after several halts amounting in all to one hour, and\\nsome little difficulties caused by masked crevasses into\\nwhich one or other of the party was constantly sinking\\nthrough the now soft snow, we reached the Eiffel at five,\\nand strolled down to Zermatt in the evening, well satisfied\\non the whole with the turn affairs had taken, though of\\ncourse there was a tinge of disappointment at having shot", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0130.jp2"}, "131": {"fulltext": "AND ASCENT OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. 73\\nat a pigeon and killed a crow, aimed at the Lyskamm and\\nstruck the Signalkuppe. Non omnes ovinia possumus,\\nand so the pleasure of vanquishing the Lyskamm was\\nreserved for future comers. Who they were I need not\\nsay, as an account of the expedition will be found in the\\nfirst volume of the second series of Peaks, Passes, and\\nGlaciers, but I may be allowed to terminate this paper\\nwith warm and hearty congratulations on their success.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0131.jp2"}, "132": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0132.jp2"}, "133": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES\\nBERCHTESGADEN AND THE ZILLERTHAL.\\nTis best, where er we are, to follow still\\nThe customs of the country.\\nPlumptre s Sophocles.\\nWhen many a merry tale and many a song\\nCheer d the rough road, we wish d the rough road long\\nThe rough road then, returning in a round,\\nMock d our enchanted steps, for all was fairy ground.\\nJohnson.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0133.jp2"}, "134": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0134.jp2"}, "135": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND THE\\nZILLER-THAL.\\nCOMPAEATIVELY few English travellers know the\\ncharm of an ear]y spring in the mountains. People\\nwho have been living through an Italian winter are eager\\nto cross as quickly as possible into more familiar regions,\\nand reach town for the season, and a few hours in a\\nlumbering vetturino, with some shivering comments on\\nthe chilly blasts that sweep down upon them as they hurry\\nover the St. Grothard or the Brenner, are all they reaHse\\nof Alpine life in their passage and yet never in the whole\\nyear is that world of mountain and river, wood and snow,\\nhalf so beautiful.\\nCe joli mois de Mai It brings sunshine and warmth\\nand gladness in its hand, loosening the frozen streams,\\nand sending them down with great leaps of gladness white\\nfrom the glaciers that gave them birth, melting the snow-\\nmantle that has kept the tender plants and roots warmly\\ncovered from the frost, and wakening them with smiles\\nand promises of summer so that bare hill-sides that\\nlooked grim and desolate with snow half melted in dirty\\nbrown patches, are covered in a few hours with a radiancy", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0135.jp2"}, "136": {"fulltext": "78 SKETCHES FROM BEKCHTESGADEN AND\\nof colour and bloom and sweetness, as the blossoms creep\\nout into the sunshine, and birds are singing and insects\\nhumming their thanksgivings in a very jubilation of\\nhoneyed delight. The world seems young again, fresh\\nand rested after its winter sleep, the roads have not grown\\nwhite with the accumulated dust of summer, and the\\nnoonday heat which will bring headaches to weary August\\ntravellers is still an unknown misery; the days are long,\\nwith bright sunrises and sunsets, and there is a frosty\\nfeeling in tbe air which is wonderfully exhilarating and\\nthough the mountains be, many of them, only six or seven\\nthousand feet high, you believe in perpetual snow as you\\nsee peak after peak gleaming sharply against the clear\\nblue of the sky, and forget measurements and theodolites\\nand any scientific assertions, taking it all on trust as un-\\nrivalled in grandeur and sublimity. The dark pine-woods\\nclothe the sides of the hills, and everywhere there is a\\nsoft veil of greenery where larch and beech put out their\\ngolden buds and light up the spaces between the fir-\\nshadows like veritable sunshine.\\nThe still deep lakes of Tyrol, very small for the most\\npart, have wonderful colours in their depths emerald and\\nultramarine and gorgeous purple, as though Here loved\\nthem, and had made them beautiful with reflections from\\npeacocks wings and breasts unseen by mortals or possibly\\nin later times, when German faerieland had supplanted\\nold Olympus, the gnomes had sunk shafts and mined out", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0136.jp2"}, "137": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-TIIAL. 79\\ngalleries, piling stores of jewels and brilliant ore, and\\ndone a great business while shares were at a premium,\\ntill suddenly the world lost faith in them, treated them\\naltogether as a myth, poor little elves, and so, finding the\\nmine at a discount, they being not more than mortals,\\neven a little less so in the matter of temper, let in the\\nwater and disappeared from the earth.\\nWriting of the spring as it ought to be in Tyrol, and\\nas we found it during many happy weeks, it is only fair\\nto state that, in the year of grace 1866, the seasons were\\na little behindhand, and somehow the frost held its own\\nin an unconscionable manner and there are disadvantages\\nin travelling in a country where visitors only come in with\\nthe late vegetables, and no blankets are kept! We con-\\nsoled ourselves with philosophy; but facts are stern things,\\nand it is difficult to believe that whatever is is right with\\nthe thermometer at 17\u00c2\u00b0, and when you have to sleep in a\\nGerman bed with one sheet and a duvet three feet square\\nas your only defence against the cold. Certainly there\\nare degrees of misery, and we were by no means at the\\nlowest but if the wind had not changed, and the frost\\nhad held, and we had journeyed far enough, we might\\nhave found ourselves in that outlying district where the\\ncold was so intense that men s words froze as they were\\nuttered, and conversation could only be resumed with the\\nthaw in the spring\\nWe reached Berchtesgaden on the 22nd of May, in rather", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0137.jp2"}, "138": {"fulltext": "80 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\na bad humour, after a long wet drive from Reichenhall,\\nand found that pleasantest of summer haunts ostentatiously\\npreparing for warm weather and the butterflies it was\\nto bring, and ignoring any poor strangers who might be\\n6 frozen out, and needing warmth and comfort and shelter.\\nOur tired horses dragged us along the broad high-road\\npast many pretty chalets with cool green jalousies and\\nshady arbours, but all hermetically sealed and guiltless of\\nsmoke or human habitant, past Konig Max s villa, also\\nshuttered and barred and silent, past plashing fountains,\\nthe very thought of which made one shiver with a dire\\nforeboding that we might have made a terrible mistake,\\nand that we were there too soon on, with weary hoof\\nsplashing through the mud and sleepy driver nodding in\\nthe rain, till suddenly the Kutscher was smiling wide-eyed\\nand wide-awake in a moment, and proving it by vigorous\\nsnappings of his whip. There was a quickening of the\\npace, a feeble demonstration of having done the last ten\\nmiles in an hour, and being a little blown in consequence,\\nwhich imposed on nobody, and with a sudden jerk and\\nrattle we drew up at the Hotel zum Watzmann, at the\\nentrance of the little town. There was a big brown church\\nopposite, a sound of sweet voices chaunting, and wreaths\\nof greenery all over the inn-door, where people were\\nstanding in a state of suppressed excitement, and a little\\nOberkellner, like a puppet on wires the sole marionnette\\nof a theatre opened before its troupe had been made", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0138.jp2"}, "139": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0139.jp2"}, "140": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0140.jp2"}, "141": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 81\\nready, and with all the strings throughout the establish-\\nment attached to his small individuality, who rushed to\\nopen our carriage-door, precipitating himself upon a bundle\\nof cloaks with a vociferous welcome.\\nYes, the Herr had been there the rooms were ready,\\nthe Herr had himself selected them. We were fortunate\\nin our arrival as, being the only guests, we could choose\\nwhat pleased us. Just now, it was true, there were people,\\nbut that was only a wedding one or two hundred of the\\npeasants who would sup there, and there would be a dance.\\nCould the Fraulein see them Yes, surely and dance\\nalso there would be music they were singing now, they\\nwere in the church over there, having already feasted.\\nLater they would drink again, and the Damen should see\\nthe bride. There were the rooms were the Damen satis-\\nfied?\\nAnd so up the stairs and into the bright little chambers\\nhe hurried us keeping up a ceaseless flow of talk, with\\nmuch of hand-rubbing, the cloaks being deposited,\\nand little hasty runs through different doors, and busy di-\\nrections to a quiet, slow, handsome Kellnerin who smiled\\nher welcome and hastened to make us comfortable. Such\\nfresh, clean, pretty rooms they were, gay with muslin\\ncurtains and green jalousies, crimson cushions on the\\nwindow-siDs, floors polished with much scrubbing, downy\\npink- striped coverlets, a sofa and the little round table,\\nwith its red cloth, to make believe we had a salon, and a", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0141.jp2"}, "142": {"fulltext": "82 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\ngreat white earthenware stove filling up a quarter of the\\nroom, and looking as though many hours and more faggots\\nwould be needed before any warmth could penetrate its\\nicy smoothness. It was impossible to resist the friendly\\nwelcome, the promise of dinner at the moment, and a\\ndance afterwards, the hesitating request that we would\\ngraciously eat in a small room adjoining, the Speisesaal\\nbeing occupied by the bridal party. We thawed at once\\nfraternised with the waiter, with the chambermaid, with\\nthe whole establishment threw ourselves heart and soul\\ninto the interests of the moment, and determined to enjoy\\nthe fun. It was freezing hard about that there could be\\nno mistake and the little salon was two-thirds window\\nand guiltless of a fireplace. We ate and shivered and\\nlistened to F. s histories of his morning. He having\\npreceded us on foot and arrived in time for the whole\\nceremony, and having witnessed sundry libations, was\\nsceptical of the feasibility of our sharing even as spec-\\ntators in the evening celebrations but by this time the\\ncold had become so intense, that his account of the big-\\nroom with its warmth and light and many people, even\\nwith the tobacco-smoke, sounded welcome, and we ventured\\nin, taking up a safe position near the door.\\nThe scene was wonderfully picturesque and full of\\ninterest; the people enjoyed themselves so thoroughly,\\nwith such happy light-hearted merriment, with such\\nearnest good-will, and the throng of glad faces, honest", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0142.jp2"}, "143": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 83\\nhard-working men and women, strong and sturdy, was\\na pleasant sight to see. The men were tall, well-grown\\nfellows, with handsome sun-burnt faces, with gay-coloured\\nbraces crossed over their white shirts for there was hardly\\na jacket to be seen in the crowd, the dancing was too\\nmuch in earnest for the carrying of any needless weight\\nand wearing high- crowned hats, grey or black, some\\nwith the broad green band of the Salzkammergut, all\\nwith feathers white Lammergeier, black Auerhahn,g\\\\ossy\\nand curled a bunch of flowers, or a tassel, green or silver.\\nThe women were in dark brown or black garments, hang-\\ning in heavy folds half-way below the knee, the bodice\\nrelieved with dainty chemisette or gay- coloured kerchief\\nmatching the brilliant apron, the hair glossy and braided,\\nthe dancers in green wreaths. One or two maidens who\\nmight, perhaps, aspire to belong to a higher class than\\nthe peasants around them, wore flowing white robes, with\\ntrains that mournfully recalled Western civilisation.\\nDown one side of the room sat the men and matrons,\\nhouse-fathers gossiping together over the weather and the\\ncrops, and clinking beer-glasses the mothers, with mild\\nquiet faces and steadfast eyes shining out under the shade\\nof their broad hats, with kind glances at the younger life\\naround them, and pleasant smiles over the bright faces so\\ninnocently happy, and whispered reminders of past days\\nand other Brautfests, and of their own old romances.\\nG-ood souls, they looked quiet and patient, as though", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0143.jp2"}, "144": {"fulltext": "84 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nthrough somewhat of sorrow and hard work, and blessed\\nhome jo} r s and cares, they had kept their hearts fresh like\\na deep still pool made bright by the reflections from\\nothers sunshine, and glad with little ripples of their own\\ncontent, sending out rivers to barren places, and fed by\\nstreams from other lives, which, whether sweet or bitter,\\nmingled with their own and made them more complete.\\nThere is something wonderfully touching in the faces of\\nthese German mothers they look so good and hard-\\nworking and thrifty, though often so very poor, as though\\nthey might tell you sad stories of Hans being a Wildschiitz,\\nand Jacob far too much given to quarrels over the\\nBranntwein, and that they and the little cows had to do\\nall the work, yet the good Grod gave His blessing, and the\\nHeine had never wanted for bread.\\nBut all this time the dancing was going on fast and\\nfurious, till the great beams swung again, and the boards\\nrose and fell with the hurrying feet. A little old man, the\\nmaster of the ceremonies, worked himself almost into a fit\\nin his excitement and eagerness. Standing in the centre\\nof the room he shouted and stamped in time to the music,\\ndespotically marshalling his dancers, giving his orders\\nright and left with vehement clappings, wiping his heated\\nbrows at every pause, and swallowing beer from many\\nglasses hospitably held out for his acceptance.\\nWe made our way through the throng to one corner\\nwliere the bride and bridegroom were seated solemnly", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0144.jp2"}, "145": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0145.jp2"}, "146": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0146.jp2"}, "147": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 85\\ndrinking. We had all to shake hands, with hearty good\\nwishes, and to pledge them in some very sour liquid, like\\nsteel filings on edge, diluted with vinegar. They were of\\nthe peasant farmer class, neither very young. The man\\ntall and ungainly, working off his awkwardness in offers\\nof beer, and looking uncomfortably conscious of his long-\\ntailed coat and heavy hat, which, as full dress, was de\\nrigueur on the occasion. The bride was by no means\\npretty, but she spoke happily of their little cottage on the\\nhills, and tried to do her part by asking the gentlemen to\\ndance, and quietly accepting their apologies, thanking us\\nfor coming to them, and then relapsing into that stolid\\ncalm which nature and constant association with their\\ndumb beasts teaches them, and which civilisation has\\nimproved into the apathy of perfect good-breeding\\nThe dancing was perfect, the men changing their\\npartners in the middle of a waltz without losing a step.\\nThe fiddlers played faster and faster as the dancers flew\\nround the room. Some danced by themselves, not to lose\\na moment, leaping into the air, snapping their fingers, and\\njodeling in very gladness of heart. We had a store of\\nmagnesium-wire and coloured lights, and our father flung\\nthe bright blazing papers among them amidst bursts of\\necstatic wonder and delight. They all showed us the\\ngreatest respect and hospitality, and one very ugly old\\nman, probably thinking our feelings might be hurt if\\nwe were altogether passed over, suggested, Possibly the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0147.jp2"}, "148": {"fulltext": "86 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN ASD\\nFraulein will dance and on our professing ignorance of\\nthe figures, met the difficulty graciously with Perhaps,\\nthen, a cotillon\\nAt last, leaving them to their revels, we retreated to our\\nrooms, but not to sleep the noise across the passage was\\ndeafening. When the bridal pair left about midnight, the\\nband preceded them downstairs, and all the guests followed\\ntwo and two, cheering and jodeling as they drove off in\\nan Einspanner for their mountain chalet. And then came\\nmore dancing and more noise and if any one had been\\nso unreasonable as to keep awake and listen to heavy\\nbodies falling downstairs, and the other slight confusions\\nattending their departure, possibly their views of the piety\\nand thrift and simple habits of these poor Bauem might\\nhave been modified, with a dreamy sense that the good\\nand the evil has drifted pretty equally over the world we\\nlive in, and that men are not necessarily better because\\nthey live nearer the heavens, and breathe rarefied air.\\nNo words can describe the charm of this small Bavarian\\nsettlement, as we saw it again in the warmth and bright-\\nness of the later spring. A little hamlet nestling under\\nthe shelter of the hills, the houses springing up here and\\nthere as though self-sown, and seeming to grow by nature\\namong orchard trees and flowers far away, like a fair\\nribbon flung upon the grass, the river flows, now soft\\ngreen, now palest blue, as it glimmers into shade or sun-\\nshine, an old church with a rude brown tower makes a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0148.jp2"}, "149": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0149.jp2"}, "150": {"fulltext": "7\\nM\\nwife\\nr\\n-V", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0150.jp2"}, "151": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 87\\npleasant bit of warm colouring amongst the white home-\\nsteads and grey-roofed little cottages, and is apparently\\nwell loved by the peasants, who congregate there and\\nchant their psalms and hymns with a strong goodwill and\\nearnestness of purpose that makes up somewhat for lack\\nof melody in the notes, leaving the stiff old Dora Kirche,\\nwith its two iron-coloured extinguisher steeples, to the\\nslow work of renovation which scaffolding and bricks and\\nmortar show us is still going on within. The ground rises\\nfrom the river on either side, here in soft undulations,\\nthere in more abrupt slopes thickly wooded, and dotted\\nwith a few boulders and great mossy mountain stones.\\nThe fields of corn and barley wave in the wind, that is just\\nstrong enough to rustle the stems and turn a fresh side of\\nthe drooping ears to the sunshine, the meadows are all\\nready for the harvest, waiting in the sweet Sunday quiet\\nfor the morrow s dew, and the glad ring of the scythe\\nas the peasants gather to their work now for one more\\nevening there is a glow of colour on the grass, where\\npurple Campanulas make a soft light like a pool of still\\nwater, and Forget-me-not and golden Bartsia and deep\\ncrimson Eose-Campion and dark-brown blossoms, great\\nwhite Marguerites, and flowers, yellow, -and lilac, and\\ncrimson, sweet-scented pansies, and pale fair lilies form a\\nlovely garden world, where Titania and all her fairies might\\nwalk under the shelter of green leaves and drink their\\nG", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0151.jp2"}, "152": {"fulltext": "88 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\ndraughts of dewy nectar, each from a freshly-coloured\\ncup, and sleep afterwards as intoxicated with the sweet-\\nness as the bees who hum their lazy bacchanals around\\nthem.\\nThe lower hills are clothed with woods to their summits,\\nand under the shade of the firs and beeches, winding paths\\nare tracked out in the moss and built up with branches\\nof pines. Climbing ever higher over the soft carpet of\\ntwigs and fallen leaves, where the sunshine through the\\nbranches above makes a chequered pattern, and picks out\\nlittle red lights in the tree-stems to delight your eyes,-.you\\nreach the open again, and far away rises the grand old\\nWatzmann, a giant with a solemn snow crown, who looks\\ndown rather grimly on Titania and the flowers, and mere\\nhumans, and the follies and littlenesses of the world\\nbeneath him. His great rugged sides have wonderful\\nviolet shadows in their depths, and a soft purple mist is\\nwound about him like a mantle there is a divine smile\\non his head where the parting sun touches it with its\\nradiance, a glow that deepens and lives there when the\\nworld is cold and dark, wondrously beautiful, as though\\nwhen we had lost the light, the glory from the very\\nheaven shone upon and blessed it.\\nWe spent a long quiet Sunday in that pleasant country\\nlife, hastening down from the higher pastures to our\\nlittle inn as the shadows deepened under the dark pine\\nwoods, giving them a new and silent charm.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0152.jp2"}, "153": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 89\\nNor moon, nor stars were out\\nThey did not dare to tread so soon about,\\nThough trembling, in the footsteps of the sun\\nThe light was neither night s nor day s, but one\\nWhich lifelike had a beauty in its doubt.\\nOf all the pleasant excursions for which Berchtesgaden\\nis the best of headquarters, there is none more charming\\nthan the hour s drive to the Konig-see, and a day spent\\non its waters. Its great beauty consists in the grandeur\\nof the cliffs, which rise to a height of two or three\\nthousand feet, towering up abruptly from its margin, so\\nthat only here and there a little shelving bank is to be\\nfound on which a human foot can tread the trees spring\\nout of the rocks wherever a root can cling, and cast dark\\ngreen shadows into the depths below. Very pleasantly\\nthe hours pass as you sit in the high -pro wed boat, rowed\\nby some sturdy damsel in gold-tasselled hat and velvet\\nbodice, and if you reach the head of the lake a walk\\nacross a strip of barren ground will bring you to the\\nObersee, a deep still pool lying in a cup of bare limestone\\nrock, and worth a visit for the sake of its weird loveliness.\\nVery early one morning we drove to the shore of the\\nKonig-see the world was just astir. The birds were\\nhunting for their breakfasts, and labourers hastening to\\ntheir work. In a little wood, we came suddenly upon a\\ngroup of men under the trees, standing with bare heads\\nreverently bowed, their tools lying on the ground beside\\nthe trees they had felled the latest. We exclaimed,\\nG 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0153.jp2"}, "154": {"fulltext": "90 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nastonished at the sight, Sie sind in Grebete begriffen.\\nFraulein, answered our Kutscher, f it is Monday, and\\nthey wait to ask a blessing on their work. It is the\\ncustom, he added, giving a little commenting shake to\\nthe reins as our horses turned a corner.\\nThe whole district is a little piece of Bavaria, ceded by\\nthe Congress of Vienna as a hunting ground for its princes,\\nwith whom it has always been a favourite resort. Old\\nKing Liidwig, who was a greater sportsman than his suc-\\ncessors, spent many days in a queer chateau or Jagdschloss\\non the borders of the Konig-see, and there is a gloomy old\\npalace built amongst the houses in Berchtesgaden, besides\\nthe beautiful new Villa Max upon the hill, behind which\\nthick woods rise abruptly with country houses half hidden\\nin their shade, and wood walks cunningly devised with\\nopenings cut out among the trees, and seats for weary\\nexplorers, and here and there, at a sudden turn of the\\npath, the inevitable little chalet, with wood carvings for\\nsale, and other signs of the Philistines and predatory civili-\\nsation, only redeemed by the exceeding beauty of hill and\\nvalley which bursts upon you as an ever fresh delight.\\nWe rejoiced in the sense that we were there before the\\narrival of the season and the monde, the hot weather\\nand gay dresses, when the shutters were hardly taken\\ndown from the wood-carver s shops, when there were no\\nstalls of photographs in our path, and the blind beggars,\\nand the beggars with no arms, and the parents of large", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0154.jp2"}, "155": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0155.jp2"}, "156": {"fulltext": "iL i\\nairy\\nh*\\n((l ////cV/\\n.ftfiT\\n)8 unci Dauita", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0156.jp2"}, "157": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 91\\nfamilies of young beggars, who were taking kindly to the\\nancestral business, had not yet established themselves in\\ntheir summer hunting grounds.\\nDuring our five or six days at Berchtesgaden we spent\\nmany pleasant hours exploring the wood walks for fresh\\nviews of the snow-covered mountain whose great jagged\\npeaks watched over the village below, or driving to the\\nbeautiful Konig-see, where we rowed lazily over the water,\\nwatching the long still shadows of the rocks, or landing to\\nvisit some cascade hidden in their clefts spending quiet\\ndreamy hours in the sunshine, sitting in a sheltered nook\\nin the higher meadows, with work and books and painting,\\nand a tinkling accompaniment of cow-bells, and far away\\ngreat snow-slopes growing into violet shadows as the sun\\nsank lower in the west or discovering little out-of-the-\\nway homesteads, where we made friends with the kind\\npeasants, and heard their stories of good fortune or pri-\\nvation, admired the babies, and bought bowls full of\\nsweet new milk, for now the cold weather had come sud-\\ndenly to an end, changing into the perfection of warm\\nnoonday, with just a cheery thought of frost morning\\nand evening that kept the snow upon the hills.\\nAs the evening of a wet day in June was closing in, we\\ndrew near the little village of Krimml. Having parted\\nfrom F. at Hallstadt, and seen him start with a country\\nguide and his trusty Aimer for ten days in the mountains,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0157.jp2"}, "158": {"fulltext": "92 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nand taken leave of our father at Salzburg where he left\\nus to return home we four ladies, with the carriage and\\nhorses which we had already employed in our drive from\\nIschl, arranged to travel under Walther s* good care over\\nthe Hirschbiihl, rejoining F. at Krimml, and spending\\na few days together in the Ziller-thal. For the last\\ntwenty-four hours the weather had been the only drawback\\nto enjoyment; all the morning the rain had poured down\\nin chilly showers, which grew only colder and mistier as\\nthe dsij wore on.\\nThere was little traffic on the road, and few or no guests\\nat the inns at this early season, except, as ever, the crowd\\nof peasants in the Stube and when we halted for a meal\\nwe had much pleasant gossip with the honest-faced\\nWirthins or sturdy Kellnerins, who watched us as we ate,\\nand were delighted to sit for their portraits, and receive\\nsome little books from England, or a Trinkgeld, and a\\ncompliment on their pretty faces and ready kindliness.\\nAt Zell am Zee, where we halted for the night, we found\\nourselves in the old familiar inn of German idyls the\\nwainscoted walls and wooden tables and benches shining\\nwith cleanliness and much rubbing the rooms large and\\nlow, with great beams supporting the ceiling, and broad\\nwindows with tiny panes crucifixes, little cups for holy\\nwater, a faded wreath before some sacred picture deco-\\nBartholome Walther, of Pontresina, one of the best guides of the\\nEngadine.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0158.jp2"}, "159": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 93\\nrating the walls. But these touches of higher grace and\\nart were generally reserved for the bedrooms the grand\\napartments of the house, often of enormous size, two-thirds\\nwindow, gay with roses and sweet-scented stocks, with a\\nhuge black stove filling up one corner, and beds, piled\\nhigh with bright cotton duvets and wadded counterpanes,\\nsheets of homespun linen, coarse and white, with broad-\\nlaced edgings to the towels and pillows, the orthodox stiff\\nGerman sofa and inevitable cabinet, behind whose glass-\\ndoors reposed the heirlooms of the house old china, quaint\\ncups and mugs and vases, dear to the good Wirthin s\\nheart, silver-handled knives and forks, glass and crockery\\nof every kind and on the higher shelves, a crowd of tinsel\\nornaments, bouquets, toys, wreaths for festivals, gold and\\nsilver pins each relic, great or worthless, priceless no\\ndoubt to those good hearts, and rich in tender recollections:\\nthe bridal flowers of her happy wedding morning dear\\nsoul, though stout and old, and seamed a little by the\\nwinters that had passed her by, there had been a spring\\ntoo for her once, rich in all love and promise. There were\\nthe toys that little hands had played with perhaps most\\nprecious because the eager fingers may have been folded\\nonce so quietly they never broke that stillness. There,\\ntoo, the nosegay the young daughter had carried at her\\nfirst communion, and many treasures, gay little pictures of\\nsaints, with flowers, and lace-paper, and legends, very like\\nan ecclesiastical valentine, and with just the same tender", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0159.jp2"}, "160": {"fulltext": "94 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nlittle meanings insinuating themselves under the angelic\\nwings, bought, as they may have been, at a country-fair\\nby some great shy Pinzgauer for that blue-eyed maiden\\nwho waited on us below with the large silver spoon stuck\\ninto her bodice, and her name, Marie, or Ursula, or Filo-\\nmena, embroidered on her broad belt.\\nWe had left Mittersill with many forebodings as to the\\nweather. The clouds were as low as they could well be to\\nbe clouds at all, and they very soon changed into a drizzle,\\nand then came down in good earnest. So we pulled up at\\nthe roadside, and Walther and the coachman built up a\\nclose carriage carefully bit by bit, like a Chinese puzzle,\\ntaking out doors and windows and cross-pieces from some\\nhidden receptacle in a truly marvellous and inexhaustible\\nmanner. The puzzle, when finished, was not a perfect\\nfit; and we were glad to make cushions of our cloaks,\\nwhich comfortably imbibed the moisture, whilst we maple\\nourselves merry with riddles and stories and talk the\\ncountry being unenlivening, a great extent of flat marshy\\nland and grass-fields where numbers of young horses were\\nfeeding, with a few stray houses and one or two villages.\\nIn many of the fields the poor people were kneeling in\\nrows in the wet corn or rye, busily weeding, and laying up\\na store of rheumatic twinges for every half-dozen roots\\nthey succeeded in extracting, to say nothing of the havoc\\nmade among the green blades.\\nAs the day wore on the clouds lifted, and in the sunlight", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0160.jp2"}, "161": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 95\\nwe saw the Gross Venediger crowned with snow. Gradually\\nthe valley narrowed, and we drove into a kind of cul-de-\\nsac, the little village of Krimml lying before us, and a\\nglorious great waterfall, one thousand feet high, breaking\\nthrough a cleft in the rock. The mountains looked very\\nunpromising, and the weather scarcely less so, as the\\nclouds again covered the hills, showing us here and\\nthere through their rents black dismal rocks and deep\\nsnow over which our path lay for the morrow. The inn\\nwas the roughest we had yet encountered. A ladder-\\nlike staircase led up from the darkness below to a vast\\ndamp landing the boarded walls seemed exuding\\nmoisture, and the rain and damp fog entered at will\\nthrough the great openings at either end no woman\\nwas to be seen, and no one, apparently, to make us\\nwelcome, or at all prepared for the arrival of guests. A\\nrough old landlord, begrimed with accumulated dirt of\\nthe past winter, and smoked and seasoned by the fumes of\\nhis own pipe, which was never out of his mouth, at last\\ncame to our relief, and took us under his protection.\\nThe Herr had not arrived, but his portmanteau was\\nthere, and no doubt he would appear shortly, and mean-\\nwhile we could see the rooms. On opening a door into a\\nspacious chamber matters began to look more promising.\\nWe at once prepared to take possession and make things\\ncomfortable, ordered everything eatable the house con-\\ntained, lit the candles on the round table, and provided a", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0161.jp2"}, "162": {"fulltext": "96 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nfamous brew of tea to welcome F. and Aimer when they\\nshould arrive, probably wet and weary.\\nWhile D. ran to the kitchen with the teapot, E. hunted\\nout the salt, when a cry from Mrs. C. arrested them, as\\nshe stood gazing at them in blank despair, unable after\\nthe first scream to utter a word. Slowly they drew\\nfrom her the direful truth, the rain had penetrated\\nher carpet-bag, and during the journey her precious\\npossessions had been literally floating in soft water.\\nAs they extracted the moist masses, her companions sug-\\ngested the evident wisdom of at once drying them and\\nmaking up a bundle of her garments, she hastened in\\nsearch of a kitchen and a fire but encountering the old\\nWirth, was hurried by him into the Stube, where a group\\nof sympathetic and much interested peasants, busy with\\ntheir pipes, offered to smoke the clothes for her Indig-\\nnantly rejecting their proposal, she was conducted to the\\nkitchen, and propitiated by the sight of a good fire in\\nthe broad stove and the alacrity with which mine host\\nassisted her to string her possessions on a long spit, which\\nwas afterwards suspended over the blaze, and turned till\\nthey were sufficiently done.\\nCalmness being restored, we settled down to our Abend-\\nessen, but with rather sad hearts, waiting hour after hour\\nfor F., who never came. E. and C. went to their room\\nand vainly endeavoured to sleep. Ten, eleven o clock, and\\nno arrival! Sometimes they would be startled by a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0162.jp2"}, "163": {"fulltext": "Cromg clawnsrouAa in. flL t BeTC vva.f", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0163.jp2"}, "164": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0164.jp2"}, "165": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 97\\nfootstep stamping up the stairs, as one of the herdsmen\\nclimbed to his nest amongst the rafters. E. always\\nsuffered from chronic anxiety during F. s absences, and\\nthe attack became violent whenever he ceased to appear\\nat the expected moment. C. declares that she was not\\nthe least uneasy till E. worked her up to a proper state of\\nmisery; but this fact E. doubts. It was dismal enough\\nlying sleepless in the cold gaunt room, listening to the\\nrain beating against the windows, and the wind howling\\nround the lonely house, or eagerly looking at their watches\\nby the dim light of a little candle, to see how many hours\\nstill lay between them and the possibly dread uncertainties\\nof the morning.\\nSuddenly a shrill old bell gave a clang, and steps were\\nheard and voices, and the anxious watching passed away\\ninto a happy dreamless sleep.\\nVery merry was the breakfast, making up for all the\\nshortcomings of the night before. F. recounted his ad-\\nventures, and we watched the gathering of men and horses\\nbelow the window. Much could not be said for the\\nweather but if there were no distant views, there was a\\nvery picturesque foreground to clouds and mist as our little\\nparty wound up the steep wood-path and over the grassy\\nhill-side above we four ladies on horseback endeavour-\\ning, as far as we were able, to protect ourselves from the\\npitiless rain, and exchanging merry talk and jokes with F.\\nand the guides, who made the poor beasts rest every three", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0165.jp2"}, "166": {"fulltext": "98 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nminutes, much to our discomfort, as their backs were\\nnearly at an angle of forty-five degrees A pause at an\\nAlmhiitte, where some great bowls of delicious milk were\\nbrought to us, and then we pressed on, our steeds slipping\\nand stumbling for the next hour along a track, in reality\\na succession of deep hollows betweeD short wet turf, half\\nblack bog, half holes and large stones, so that we were glad\\nto dismount and trudge through water and soaked grass\\ntill we reached a more level road but any after attempt\\nat riding made us so unpleasantly conscious of being wet\\nthrough, at least as to our feet, that we were glad to run\\nagain to warm ourselves, and joyfully hailed the little\\ninn at Grerlos, where we changed and dried our clothes\\nover the kitchen-fire. The cloaks and rugs were hung\\nacross a beam over the great flat stove, on which a fire\\nof wood was lit, a little tripod placed over it supporting a\\nsaucepan or fryingpan; the men held our boots in the\\nbright flame, while the Mddchen fed the fire with dry\\nchips of wood from a great pile stored in one corner F.\\npreparing a good portion of soup, with a cake of dried\\nvegetables, a square a la Julienne being added to the\\nstock.\\nMeanwhile, two Bergivagen were being got ready, and\\nthe baggage stowed away. They were the worst we had\\never seen the poor horses never went beyond a walk, the\\ndrivers tramping at their side for four long hours; and\\nfor these delightful vehicles the charge was sixteen", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0166.jp2"}, "167": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 99\\nGulden, T and E. started in one, F. heading the pro-\\ncession on foot. Mrs. C. and C. were established side by-\\nside on the second seat of one cart, Walther and Aimer on\\nthe one before them. The seats were merely boards, laid\\nacross a long narrow trough on wheels. It was exceedingly\\ndifficult for two people to sit anyhow without tumbling\\noff sideways, and when the paths for road there was\\noften none led over great stones or rocks, the sight\\nwas ludicrous of the unhappy victims swaying from side\\nto side, half shaken out, and then violently thrown back\\nupon the planks, steadying themselves by the exertion\\nof every muscle in their bodies, or rowing themselves along\\nwith enormous fir poles, with which F. supplied them.\\nHalf the exertion expended would have carried us on our\\nfeet happily to the journey s end, but having elected\\nto drive, we scorned to be turned from our purpose;\\nWalther and Christian soon succumbed, and unable to\\nendure such an amount of exercise, prepared to walk,\\nthough poor Aimer was almost dead beat after his twenty-\\nfour hours expedition of the previous day.\\nAbout a quarter of an hour after our start D. and E.\\ncame to grief, through the loss of the linch-pin or bolt\\nof their chariot, which thereupon fell in two. A little\\nWirthshaus near by fortunately boasted another trough\\nupon wheels, into which they and the bags were stowed\\nthe appearance they presented forcibly reminding their\\ncompanions of one of Mr. Leech s most vivid sketches of", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0167.jp2"}, "168": {"fulltext": "100 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nthe youthful and agricultural poor taking the air in a\\nclothes -truck. The victims consider their sufferings to\\nhave been indescribable.\\nThe road was execrably bad, and often very steep, but\\nfull of beauty of woods and meadows in all the glory\\nof spring. The path wound down the sides of a steep\\nravine, with a torrent far below breaking in white showers\\nof foam over the stones and between the dark stems of the\\nfirs, and carrying away in its course branches freshly torn\\nfrom the pines, red and odorous, with great jagged edges\\nof brown bark, that came sweeping down, holding out\\ntheir broken twigs like hands of drowning men, and some-\\ntimes getting caught out in quiet little eddies, where they\\nmay rest for years, and weld themselves into the rich marl\\nof the banks, till the moss covers them lovingly and\\nflowers grow out of their heart, or a bright-eyed water-rat\\nbuilds its nest in a soft bit of fibre.\\nThe sides of the wood were green with plants, luscious\\ngrasses, and golden lichens starred with flowers, and many\\nstreams crossed our path some so small they only made\\na bubbling in the grass, some busy and important enough\\nto turn a mill and needing a wooden bridge made in\\ncareless fashion of loose boards, over which we jolted,\\ntossed helplessly into the air by the vibration. The woods\\nrang with our laughter and moans the stolid old driver\\ngiving no sign of sympathy, unless a chuckle of delight\\nmay be so regarded when a more fearful shock than usual", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0168.jp2"}, "169": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0169.jp2"}, "170": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0170.jp2"}, "171": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0171.jp2"}, "172": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0172.jp2"}, "173": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THA.L. 101\\nelicited a cry of anguish. A sort of stone staircase, which\\nannounced itself as part of the high road, brought matters\\nto a climax. D. and E. from the safer abasement of their\\ntrough, looked back upon their companions. The horses\\ntook to the stairs as a matter of course, and the Bergivdgen\\ncame after, bump jolt shriek creak stumble cries\\nand laughter bump bump bump the unhappy occu-\\npants holding on to each other, to their great poles, to the\\nempty air, in an ecstasy of suffering and delight.\\nThere had been a drizzle of rain all the morning, but as\\nthe day advanced the clouds cleared off a little, and we\\ncaught sight of the lovely Ziller-thal, to which we were\\nbound. We were still journeying through a thick forest,\\nwinding in and out on the edge of a steep slope, ending in\\na ravine, through which the river ran and opposite to us\\nrose another wooded mountain side, clothed to its summit\\nwith soft green meadows, like little bits of sunshine cut out\\nof the trees, and dozens of brown chalets, the lower ones the\\npeasants dwellings, the more distant, haysheds or Almhutte.\\nThe cattle were all in their higher pastures, and very\\nsweet and Arcadian it all looked in the bright evening\\nlight. Grladly we hailed the emerald-green spire of the\\nvillage church far below us the tired horses hastened\\nforward, and we reached Zell about seven, where we were\\nwarmly welcomed by the very affable old Wirthin, and\\nwhile supper was preparing thankfully rested our worn\\nand weary bodies, listening later for an hour or two to", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0173.jp2"}, "174": {"fulltext": "102 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nsome pleasant Volkslieder and jodeling choruses, with a\\nmusical accompaniment from Zither and guitar, and a\\nwonderful wooden instrument called Holzgelachter, which\\nat each touch of the little sticks gave out sweet clear\\nnotes, indescribable, alas except in the thought that an\\nangel in pattens was singing somewhere. And so, with\\nan interchange of friendly talk and conjuring and sketch-\\nbooks on our part, and singing from the peasants, our\\nday drew to a close and while we slept, too soundly even\\nto dream of its misadventures or fatigues, we woke to\\nbright sunshine and glad plannings for another happy\\nday amongst the hills.\\nA late breakfast at the luxurious hour of eight, a quiet\\ndrive through the pleasant country in a good carriage,\\nblessed be the man who invented springs a soft air\\nscented with new-mown hay and crushed flowers drying\\non the high crossed poles that made the fields look full\\nof great bears holding out embracing arms, or meek\\nCapuchins standing with bowed heads, brought us to\\nMayrhofen, where we found a little room perched in the\\nbalcony, very cool and airy, with lattice-work sides,\\nthrough which we looked down on an amusing little world\\nbelow fat blue-eyed children toddling about with the\\ninevitable big baby, peasants resting with their cattle,\\nsmoking and ruminant, an investigating cow endeavouring\\nto establish itself in a cosy stable, from which it was\\ndriven by a young Tyroler with ironical hootings, to the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0174.jp2"}, "175": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-THAL. 103\\ndismay of the fat children among whom it immediately\\nplunged, an alarming guggle from the baby premonitory\\nof a scream, bringing an anxious mother from a wash-house,\\nwhose sturdy arms speedily routed the enemy and restored\\npeace. Our guides, who had followed us in an Einspdnner,\\nappeared, elevating an alpenstock on which hung, waving\\nin the breeze, a banner with a strange device in the\\nshape of F. s knickerbockers which, having been tho-\\nroughly washed during the night after his tramp down\\nthe mountain, had now to be dried en route.\\nThat ride to the Karlsteg was one never to be forgotten.\\nGreat rocks piled one upon another in chaotic confusion\\nmade the path, marked by a long slide here and there on\\nthe smooth stone where a hoof had begun a glissade. If\\nit had been up hill or all down, one might in time have\\nbecome reconciled to the movement, but the hillocks were\\nso small that each unfortunate beast formed an arc of a\\ncircle, and the still more unfortunate rider was first thrown\\nforward almost on its head and then jerked over the tail.\\nThe path was in places so narrow that though a mule could\\npass, panniers, or anything so insignificant as the feet of the\\nriders, had not been taken into account. After escaping\\nbeing crushed between the rocks in a narrow defile, with a\\nsudden lunge the animal would turn a corner and stand\\npanting, its foreleg slipping on a loose stone edging the\\npath, and your boots hanging over a precipice. A pleasant\\nH", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0175.jp2"}, "176": {"fulltext": "10 4 SKETCHES FROM BERCIITESGADEN AND\\nposition, truly, for those who cannot keep their seat at any-\\ngiven angle of saddle or steed\\nLovely clematis with bright blue blossoms hung from\\nthe rocks the woods, as ever, were full of the sweet\\nspring fragrance birds sung in the trees, and the torrent\\nroared with a mighty voice as the masses of water fell with\\na great leap into the hissing cauldron below, and rocks\\nand hill-side showed out dimly through the whirl of spray.\\nIt is only with an effort that the mind can so far triumph\\nover matter as properly to appreciate such a scene, when\\nthe boots belonging to it are in the uncomfortable position\\nmentioned above.\\nThere is but a step from the sublime to the ridicu-\\nlous, and in the course of our travels how many bursts of\\neloquence have not been cut short by a sudden slip or\\nstumble on the part of the most promising-looking steed\\nor most sure-footed of humans\\nAs the echo caught the roar of the water it sent it to\\nus mockingly, as though a hundred spirits of the stream\\nlaughed back at us, and old Kuhleborn himself might\\nhave grown out of the mist and steam and defied us, as\\nwe passed on to find the still bed of the river higher up,\\nand eat and drink, and profane those quiet places by\\nmortal hunger and wonderment and laughter. Pleasantly\\nthe old Folk-lore grows into its own surroundings, and we\\nhave time to muse over it as we rest idly by the water,\\nsheltered from a sudden shower by the strong roof of the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0176.jp2"}, "177": {"fulltext": "y^So \\\\\\\\\\\\t KaxUfef", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0177.jp2"}, "178": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0178.jp2"}, "179": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLER-TIIAL. 105\\nold bridge, picturing to ourselves Undine s sweet white\\nface smiling out of the spray, or fading away, pathetically\\nmournful, as the wind sung her dirge through the pine-\\nboughs and up through the gorge, as night falls and\\nclouds gather black and threatening, may still come, for\\naught we know, the weird Erl Konig or the Wild Hunts-\\nman and his spectral hounds. The dark hollows of these\\nvery rocks were full once of little gnomes and demons\\ngood little gobbos. some of them, who gave dowries to\\npretty maidens, and wreaked fell judgment on prosperous\\niniquity. We had read all these stories long ago, in those\\nsweet old days when everything was truth to us and for\\nthe sake of that happy time we spoke of the old myths\\nreverently, sighing because we were wiser and perhaps\\nsomewhat sadder also.\\nSoundly we slept that night in the big rooms at Zell,\\nand loudly demonstrative was the good Wirthin at parting.\\nWe gave her a packet of our English tea so called in\\ncontradistinction to the dried hay or carefully preserved\\ntwigs with which we had been favoured at many good\\nhostelries. Her admiration of our teapot was boundless\\nshe evidently regarded it as a valuable piece of family\\nplate, as Mrs. C. always carried it in a chamois-leather\\ncase and polished it carefully each morning and E. s\\nstatement of its having cost less than three Gulden was\\nregarded as a vague anecdote totally destitute of truth, or\\ntoo intimately connected with the conjuring of the night\\nH 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0179.jp2"}, "180": {"fulltext": "106 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nbefore, which had driven the good woman from the room\\nwith a cry of, e Was fur Hexerei\\nWe had found an officer established in the little village,\\nwho had made our inn his head-quarters, and was hard\\nat work drilling about a hundred and fifty volunteers,\\nf furlough men, as The Times called them and these\\nyoung peasants made somewhat of a thoroughfare of our\\nsalon on their way to and from the officer s chamber.\\nThere was not much attempt at regular uniforms, but\\ntheir costumes were sufficiently picturesque, and there was\\na great gathering of plumed hats and a vast display of\\nbelts and rifles. We watched them being put through\\ntheir paces, the poor fellows looking very awkward, and\\nvery much ashamed of themselves and of these early at-\\ntempts to learn discipline.\\nThe distant war-thunder was growing nearer and more\\ndistinct every hour, but as yet no shot had been fired.\\nThe people everywhere seemed stolid and faithful, but\\ntotally without enthusiasm, and already suffering and\\nprivation were making themselves felt. In some of the\\nhigher mountain hamlets the peasants spoke to F. sadly of\\ntheir future All our able-bodied men are taken away\\nthere is no one left to gather in the crops, and nothing\\nbefore us but want and misery in the coming winter, how-\\never matters may go. At Grmunden, a town of some\\nthree thousand inhabitants, they told us one hundred and\\nforty of their young men had been taken by the conscrip-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0180.jp2"}, "181": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLEE-THAL. 107\\ntion, and the old burger with whom we were discussing the\\naspect of affairs and the war prospect, said, with a dismal\\nshrug, that as the youths had had to go, and they were\\nall forced to pay so much money, he thought for his part\\ntheir Emperor had better try a little fighting, peace could\\nnot do them much good now. During all the time we\\nwere in the country, both before and after war was declared,\\nthe people were in a calm and utterly unexcited state,\\nsad enough truly, but knowing little and caring less for\\nanything but the one fact that all the strong-handed had\\nbeen draughted away, and that life was a hard struggle for\\nthose who were left, with taxation weighing them down\\nheavily, and bread growing daily dearer, while the crops\\nwere spoiling for want of labourers in the fields. At Inns-\\nbruck we saw regiment after regiment pass on to the front,\\nJager in heavy marching order travel-stained and weary,\\nthe soldiers in their grey greatcoats and with their slow\\ntread, offering a great contrast to the little active wiry\\nmen we had been accustomed to see among the Italian\\nsharpshooters. It was difficult to believe those good\\nplacid faces could ever kindle into sudden fire and energy\\nwhen the need came possibly a slow match is surer in\\nthe end than one that spits out little flames and sparkles\\nand glistens before the train is ready to be lighted.\\nWe saw nothing of the far-famed Austrian cavalry, but\\nat every little village there were gatherings of the people\\nround the inns, and drilling was going on throughout the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0181.jp2"}, "182": {"fulltext": "108 SKETCHES FROM BETICHTESGADEN AND\\nday by red-faced Unterofficieren, with much shouting and\\ngesticulation and it was strange to meet suddenly, as we\\ndid one day, a detachment of artillery in a quiet bye-lane,\\nkicking horses dragging a great cannon between hedges\\ngreen with their first spring freshness, and where the\\nwide-eyed peasant children stared dumb and awestruck,\\nhalf hidden in the dust from the heavy wheels.\\nThere is a great deal of old Grerman life and obsolete\\ncustom lingering among the Tyrolers, and a quaintness in\\ncostume and thought and word, that in other regions has\\nmerged itself in the onward rush of more civilised life.\\nThe peasants whom you meet greet you heartily with\\n1 griiss Grott, the ordinary salutation or, Grott sei dank\\nfur Jesus Christus and you answer, s der fur uns gestor-\\nben ist. In Ewigkeit. Amen, and the solemn words\\nnever seemed to us irreverent, but to be a part of that\\nsimple trustful life, though the griiss Grott has grown\\ninto so common an address that it has almost lost its\\noriginal significance, like the Grod be with you of our\\nGrood-bye These Tyrol peasants are very hospitable,\\nand seem heartily glad to see travellers, and even the\\ninnkeepers absolutely avoid making them their prey.\\nThe charges for the best food and accommodation the\\ninns could supply were often ludicrously small, and the\\ntravelling is much cheaper than in Switzerland strangely\\nenough, we found our Swiss guides spent more than they\\nwould have done amongst their own mountains and we", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0182.jp2"}, "183": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0183.jp2"}, "184": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0184.jp2"}, "185": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLEE-THAL. 109\\nhad to make them an extra allowance. The Tyroler does\\nnot seem to regard them as the institution they are looked\\nupon as elsewhere, and they are not made welcome, as\\nin their own country, for the sake of the travellers they\\nbring. But for ordinary tourists who do not attempt the\\nhigher mountains, or require first-rate Bergfilhrer, but are\\nsatisfied with the local guides, and who are themselves\\npedestrians, a few weeks in the Tyrol can be accomplished\\nat considerably less cost than a tour of the same length in\\nSwitzerland, even allowing for the more expensive railway\\njourney before they are on their ground. Of course post-\\ning or travelling vetturino, and first-class mountaineering-\\nmust be pretty much the same everywhere but the\\nTyrol innkeepers have consciences.\\nChristian recounted to us one day with great indigna-\\ntion an adventure that had befallen them on descending\\nfrom the Gross Grlockner, when footsore and weary, be-\\ngrimed with dust, and their clothes none the better for hard\\nwork over rocks and snow and ice, and a tramp of many\\nhours, he halted with F. at the little inn at Kals, where\\nthey rested on a bench in the open hall. In their hands\\nwere their ice-axes and a great coil of rope hung over\\ntheir shoulders, and unwashed and unshaven, they were no\\ndoubt pitiable objects to behold, and so thought the good-\\nhearted little Kellnerin, who, in her master s absence, ran\\nto the oven, and drawing out a great loaf of bread, brought\\nit to F. with a kindly greeting, while Aimer, gazing at her", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0185.jp2"}, "186": {"fulltext": "110 SKETCHES FROM BERCHTESGADEN AND\\nin horror, exclaimed Wir sind keine Bettler das ist ein\\nHerr sending back the poor little Samaritan blushing to\\nher stew-pans, after many explanatory ejaculations that,\\nseeing the ropes and the dust on their boots, and how tired\\nthey were, she had believed they were wandering journey-\\nmen, rope makers Strichmacher looking for work,\\nto whom the good bread would be welcome. But while\\nwe gossiped over Tyrol customs, and watched the peasants\\nfrom our windows at Zell, the horses were being har-\\nnessed, and the men were impatient to be off.\\nMadame and the little Kammermadchen quite clung to\\nus at parting, bringing us bouquets of sweet fresh flowers,\\nand imploring us to return.\\nWollen Sie nicht gewiss zuriickkommen, oder jeden-\\nfalls uns recommandiren nicht wahr with a sudden eye\\nto business and a tender pressure of our hands.\\nThe bugles had sounded merrily, and the Freiwillicje\\nwere ranged in order before the door as we drove away.\\nOf those great brave awkward peasants, how many may\\nnot have fallen, silently gathered in by the grim Prussian\\ndeath, before the grass they had been mowing that early\\nspring morning had turned dry and golden under their old\\nroofs at home\\nThe Tyroler in these mountain valleys are an honest\\npeople, strong in their simple beliefs and diligent in\\nprayers. Often we heard them chaunting a solemn thanks-\\ngiving round the great table on which a mighty stew of", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0186.jp2"}, "187": {"fulltext": "A mountain (alette!\\nWit sind keineBelfle*", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0187.jp2"}, "188": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0188.jp2"}, "189": {"fulltext": "THE ZILLEE-THAL. Ill\\nbeans or polenta waited the onslaught of their wooden\\nspoons masters and herdsmen and the women of the\\nhouse, each in their place, as in the good old Saxon times,\\nwhen churl and hind ate plum-porridge at a festival, sitting\\nbelow the salt.\\nGood faithful hearts, true to Grott und Kaiser, fight-\\ning vainly for a broken cause and a fatal creed! (rod\\ngrant that from that baptism of blood a new fatherland\\nmay arise, strengthened and purified, and worthy of its\\ngreat destiny in the future", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0189.jp2"}, "190": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0190.jp2"}, "191": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT\\nTHE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nBeing dight\\nIn a thick caoutchouc yclept a bag,\\nThat was well-lyned all, and yet was lighte,\\nAnd on his head the hood thereof he had,\\nFrom which the sweat, as he had chauffed been,\\nDid drop the whilome snow his breath diswronght\\nBut meek-eyed Sleepe was frighted at the scene,\\nAnd his strange guise, and fled all vainly sought,\\nAnd he through weary hours to little joy was brought.\\nAfter Spenser.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0191.jp2"}, "192": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0192.jp2"}, "193": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nON July 2, 1862, in company with my guides, Michel\\nAuguste Croz of Chamouni and Peter Perm of\\nZermatt, I left Turin for Pinerolo, proceeding the same\\nafternoon as far as La Torre. On the following day we\\nascended the Val Pellice, engaging at Bobbio a good-\\nnatured, tough little fellow, Bartolommeo Peyrotte by\\nname, as porter, for 2 francs 45 centimes and his food per\\ndiem, and reaching at 4 p.m. the summit of the Col de\\nSeylieres, where a glorious view of the Viso at once burst\\nupon us.\\nWe lingered there for an hour, and at five commenced\\nthe descent into the head of the valley of the Gruil, which\\nbears the name of the Vallon de Viso. Intersecting the\\nroute of the Col de Traversette, we skirted the slopes on\\nthe left, so as to avoid all unnecessary descent, and then,\\nonce more mounting, gained the summit of the Col de\\nVallante at 6.30. The weather was exquisite and the\\nsun, now getting low in the western sky, sent a blaze of\\ngolden glory on the rocky mass of the Viso, which towered\\nup close at hand in the most majestic manner. The descent", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0193.jp2"}, "194": {"fulltext": "116 A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\non the side of the Val Vallante is rapid, but presents no\\ndifficulty. At the highest chalets we found inhabitants,\\nbut, either naturally churlish or suspecting our appear-\\nance, they positively declined either to take us in or sell\\nus a draught of milk. At the next lower group, which\\nwe reached about eight o clock, we met with the utmost\\nkindness and civility, the berger and his wife welcoming\\nus heartily, apologising for the scantiness of their means\\nof entertainment, and begging us to avail ourselves of\\nthem, such as they were, to the utmost. The invitation\\nwas gladly accepted, a pot of milk and chocolate (the\\nlatter of course provided by us) was soon boiling merrily\\nover the fire and refreshed by a hearty supper, yet suffi-\\nciently tired to make any bed welcome, we stretched\\nourselves upon some hay, and were soon in the land of\\ndreams.\\nMy sleeping-bag here came into requisition for the first\\ntime, and as I shall have occasion to refer to it again, I\\nmay perhaps be permitted a short description of its con-\\nstruction. My friend, Mr. Gralton, having kindly lent me\\na bag he has had constructed on the plan of those used by\\nthe French preposes in the Pyrenees, and described by\\nhim in the first series of Vacation Tourists, my first\\nattempt was little more than a copy of the model in\\nquestion. Composed externally of macintosh, it was lined\\nwith thick homespun Welsh cloth, and on the two or three\\noccasions when I had an opportunity of testing its capa-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0194.jp2"}, "195": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 117\\nbilities in 1861, though answering the purpose of keeping\\nout the cold, its retention of the insensible perspiration\\nproved its weak point. To obviate this, my second attempt,\\nwhilst covered with macintosh on its under side, and on\\nthe upper surface, for a distance of about fifteen inches\\nfrom the foot, consisted simply of a bag of very stout and\\ndense scarlet blanketing (of the description known as\\ne swan-skin opening like a shirt-front to admit the body,\\nand provided with two arm-holes for greater convenience\\nand facility of movement. At the point where the upper\\nsurface of macintosh terminated, a sort of bib or apron of\\nthe same woollen material commenced, and could either be\\nthrown back over fche feet if not required, or drawn up to\\nthe chin and secured by a button to each shoulder if\\ngreater warmth was desirable. A hood or capote, also of\\nwoollen, but uncovered with macintosh, to facilitate the\\nescape of perspiration and confined air, and constructed\\nafter the fashion of Arctic head-gear, completed the\\nordinary means of protection. Stuffiness, however, though\\na serious drawback, might be put up with in the event of\\na night of rain or snow in preference to a state of more\\nor less complete saturation; and, therefore, in order to\\nprovide against such a contingenc}^, I added a loose sheet\\nof macintosh, with button-holes down each side, by which\\nit could be attached to a corresponding series of buttons\\non the bag, and thus render the latter impervious to water.\\nAs the material is exceedingly light, I had this sheet made", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0195.jp2"}, "196": {"fulltext": "118 A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nconsiderably wider than was necessary, and when not\\nrequired for the bag, it proved very useful as an addition\\nto the wraps of my guides, keeping out the wind admirably,\\nand lessening the one great objection to the use of sleeping\\nbags, the force of which I cannot wholly get over, viz. that\\nunless similar provision be made for the whole party, it\\nseems hardly fair to expose others to the hardships which\\noccasionally attend the practice of bivouacking. To con-\\nclude, the weight of the whole concern is about 8^ lbs.,\\nand as it is quite capable of doing duty as a knapsack, it\\nmay for a time be made to take the place of that otherwise\\nalmost indispensable article, either for clothes or provisions.\\nIndeed, I generally pack in it a small macintosh case,\\nwhich holds a spare pair of flannel trowsers, shirt, and\\nsocks, as a change in the event of being overtaken by wet\\nbefore reaching the intended gite. For I need hardly say\\nthat however well protected when once inside one s dormi-\\ntory, it would be extremely unwise to risk a night, sub\\nJove frigido, in rain-soaked garments. The wet clothes,\\nwhen taken off, may be stuffed into the case, which then\\nmakes a by no means contemptible pillow. Thus much\\npremised, I will now proceed with my narrative, in the\\ncourse of which I hope to be able to show that my bed\\nfulfilled my most sanguine anticipations, and proved a\\nmost valuable ally. It was made for me by Messrs. Heyes\\nCo., waterproofers, of Bristol, at an expense of ll. 12s.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0196.jp2"}, "197": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 119\\nfor the bag, 12s. for the sheet, and 2s. 6d. for the clothes-\\ncase; I supplying the swan-skin, which cost \\\\l. 2s.\\nAs I proposed, weather permitting, to spend the night\\non the summit of the Viso, and it was clear that we had\\nnot a long day s work before us, we were in no hurry to\\nquit the friendly shelter of the chalet but at 8.15 on the\\nmorning of the 4th, after a hearty breakfast of bread and\\nmilk, we bade adieu to our hosts, and proceeded to climb\\nthe wooded slope immediately behind and to the E. of our\\nquarters, which forms the southern prolongation of the\\nPetit Viso, and the W. boundary of the Vallon delle\\nForciolline. After an ascent of about one hour s duration,\\nwe quitted the upper limits of the pine, and entered upon\\na region of grassy slopes, followed by debris, over which\\nthe remainder of our route almost uninterruptedly led.\\nAt 9.45 a short halt was called, and then, traversing a\\nsort of shoulder or col, we found ourselves, at 10.30, on\\nthe bank of one of a chain of small lakes or tarns nestling\\nin the bosom of the mountain, not far from the point at\\nwhich the ascent to the Col delle Sagnette commences.\\nThese are formed by the melting of the snow-slopes above,\\nand their surplus water is discharged through a rocky\\ngorge into the Vallon delle Forciolline. The scenery is\\nvery striking, the huge and splintered crags around being\\nreflected in the calm waters, ere they go dashing onwards\\nto the valley below and we lingered half an hour, under\\npretence of demolishing a second breakfast, in the shape", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0197.jp2"}, "198": {"fulltext": "120 A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nof a hard-boiled egg apiece. Skirting the slopes of debris\\nwhich descend from the jagged ridge on the E., traversed\\nby the Col delle Sagnette, and avoiding the mistake of\\nour predecessors, Messrs. Mathews and Jacomb, which led\\nthem to the summit of the Petit Viso, we reached, at 11.45,\\nthe base of the steeper portion of the mountain. As snow\\nhad now to be ascended for a considerable distance, gaiters\\nwere put on, though probably they would scarcely be\\nneeded later in the season. A steady, but leisurely pro-\\ngress for an hour and three-quarters, sometimes over rocks\\nand up couloirs, varied by occasional step-cutting, brought\\nus at 1.45 to the crest of the ridge descending from the\\nsummit in a SSE. direction towards the Col delle Sagnette.\\nSo far all had gone on smoothly, and time being less\\nthan ever an object, it was decided to halt here for dinner,\\nrather than delay till the summit should be reached.\\nFrom the position we had now attained, the eye roamed\\nover the valleys of the Lenta and Po, and far away beyond\\nthem to the boundless expanse of the great plain of\\nPiedmont, whilst above us the summit of the Viso towered\\nup in rugged grandeur. The remainder of the ascent\\ngave us little trouble, except where the rocks were\\ncovered with hard ice, rendering extra care and an occa-\\nsional resort to the axe necessary. An hour and a half\\nsufficed for the climb, and at 3.30 we stood on the summit,\\njust 7 J hours (1\u00c2\u00a3 of which must be deducted for halts)\\nafter quitting the Chalets de Vallante. The ridge", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0198.jp2"}, "199": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 121\\nconnecting the E. and W. peaks was, owing to the recent\\nsnow, in such a dangerous condition, and the advantage of\\nattempting to reach the latter appeared so questionable,\\nthat we decided to rest satisfied with having attained the\\npoint which thanks perhaps to its snowy cap was, at\\nthe time of our visit, decidedly the loftiest. After an\\nunsuccessful search for the minimum thermometer at-\\ntached to the cairn erected by Messrs. Mathews and\\nJacomb, which was in good order and remarkably solid, I\\nproceeded to instal my barometer, spread out my wet\\nsocks to dry, and examine the view, whilst the men busied\\nthemselves with small local explorations, pipes, and the\\nconversion of very unpromising materials into a gite. I\\nshall not here dwell on the grandeur and beauty of a\\npanorama, to which full justice has already been done by\\nthe first conqueror of this supposed inaccessible peak, but\\nI may just remark that, after long and careful examination,\\nI came to the conclusion that the Mediterranean was\\ncertainly not to be distinguished from the haze of the\\nsouthern horizon. At the same time it results from a\\ncareful calculation of the effects of curvature and refraction\\nthat the Viso would be visible from the sea, at a distance\\nof 148 miles, or 83 miles from the shore in the direction\\nof the Col di Tenda, while this latter being 6,158 feet in\\nheight would vanish beneath the horizon at a distance of\\n103 miles, or 76 from the shore. Hence it follows that\\nthere is no obstacle to the sea being sesn from the Viso,\\ni", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0199.jp2"}, "200": {"fulltext": "122 A NIGHT ON TTIE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nor vice versa, but the imperfection of the human vision or\\nthe haze of the atmosphere. It seemed to me just possible\\nthat some exceedingly distant high land seen almost over\\nthe Col di Tenda. and apparently separated from the\\nrange of the Maritime Alps by an expanse of brouillard\\nsuch as would be produced by a large surface of water,\\nmight be the Monte Eotondo in the Island of Corsica.\\nThe height of this summit is 9,068 feet, but its distance\\nis so great (200 miles) that the utmost I can claim for my\\nsupposition is that it is not physically impossible, the\\nViso being, as already stated, visible from the sea-level\\nat 148 miles, whilst the Monte Eotondo is seen at 125.*\\nThough the mountains of Dauphine are very well seen\\nfrom the Viso, the position of the sun rendered their\\ndetails extremely confused, and as their forms were com-\\nparative strangers to me, I could do nothing in the way of\\nidentification or determination of bearings with the theo-\\ndolite. Eeserving this for the morning, when the first\\ncondition would be reversed in my favour, and whilst the\\nbarometer was being allowed to settle, I deposited in the\\ncairn one of Casella s new mercurial minimums and a\\nPhillips maximum by the same maker, to which I beg to\\ncall the attention of future comers.\\nAt five, six, and seven o clock I read off the barometer,\\nI have since been informed by my friend Mr. Brown, of Genoa, that\\nthe Viso has been distinguished from at least one point on the Eiviera di\\nLevante.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0200.jp2"}, "201": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 23\\nand the mean resultant height deduced from comparisons\\nwith Turin, Aosta, Geneva, and the Great St. Bernard,\\ncomes out 3,860*1 metres (12,664 feet). A fourth ob-\\nservation at 5*30 the following morning, similarly com-\\npared, gives the lower result of 3,840*3 metres (12,600\\nfeet). The former is within four feet of Mr. Mathews\\ndetermination (12,668 feet), and the latter within one\\nfoot of the trigonometrical measurement of the Sardinian\\nengineers (12,599 feet), so that the mean of both (12,632\\nfeet) is highly satisfactory. The boiling point at 6 p.m.\\nwas 190\u00c2\u00b0 Fahrenheit or 87*78\u00c2\u00b0 centigrade, which, by M.\\nRegnault s table, corresponds with a pressure of 482*53\\nmillimetres. Now the barometer at the same hour stood\\nat 482*1 millimetres, and the difference, 0*43 millimetre,\\nis precisely the same as that found a week previously\\non the summit of the Grivola. Comparing the mean of\\nthe readings of the barometer at five, six, and seven p.m.\\n(482*2 millimetres), with that of the aneroid (one of\\nSecretan s) for the same hours (477*2 millimetres), we\\nfind a difference of 5 millimetres, an increase upon that\\nfound on the Grivola, which was only 3*2 millimetres.\\nA similar comparison of the observation at 5*30 the\\nfollowing morning, reduces the discrepancy to 4*3 milli-\\nmetres, and the mean would therefore be 4*6 millimetres\\nbut as on the 2nd, at Turin, the error was. alread} r\\nprecisely the same in amount, if this were used as a\\nI 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0201.jp2"}, "202": {"fulltext": "124 A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\ncorrection, the two instruments would be absolutely\\naccordant.\\nThe sunset was magnificent, the huge pointed shadow\\nof the mountain stretching away over the light veil of\\nfleecy clouds which began to cover the surface of the Italian\\nplain but as at seven o clock the temperature had already\\nfallen to 2\u00c2\u00b0 C. (28*4\u00c2\u00b0 Fahrenheit), and the wind was be-\\nginning to rise, my position on the summit became rather\\nexposed, and the question of shelter and a bivouac assumed\\nincreased importance. The sound of falling stones had for\\nsome time indicated considerable activity on the part of\\nmy companions, who had left me to attend to my ma-\\nchines but on rejoining them, I found that their united\\nefforts had made but little progress in the construction of\\na gite. A small surface of ground at a point about forty\\nfeet below the summit had, indeed, been to some extent\\ncleared of debris, and a sort of wall constructed of loose\\nstones on the side of the precipice, but not a single jutting\\nfragment offered even partial protection from radiation,\\nand the creation of a tolerably level surface on a slope of\\n10\u00c2\u00b0 or 15\u00c2\u00b0 had proved an absolutely insoluble problem.\\nThe appearance of the weather, too, was by no means re-\\nassuring, and as fitful gusts of wind moaned amongst the\\ncrags, and the dull grey vapours came stealing up from\\nthe valleys, I confess I began to feel doubtful about the\\nwisdom of the whole proceeding. There was no help for\\nit now, however, as darkness was coming on apace; so,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0202.jp2"}, "203": {"fulltext": "r root s or int ctth v i ly ol T s compel n ions\\nkey OTrangt I hit* tfosfu-me. Pot lk fe negkt", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0203.jp2"}, "204": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0204.jp2"}, "205": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 125\\nwhilst the final touches were being given to our nest, I\\noccupied myself with heating a bottle of wine in my boil-\\ning apparatus by way of night-cap. Peyrotte then got\\ninto the sack in which he always used to carry his load,\\nCroz indued a comfortable knitted woollen head-piece, and\\nPerm a seal-skin cap, with ample flaps to come over the\\nears, which I had lent him. Finally, covering themselves\\nwith a couverture which we had borrowed at the chalets,\\nmy companions drew my macintosh sheet over outside to\\nmake all snug. I meanwhile entered the bag, and, plant-\\ning my feet firmly against a rock to prevent slipping, en-\\ndeavoured to compose myself to rest, but the intensity of\\nthe cold, aggravated by the wind, combined with an uneasy\\nposition and the constant sense of being in motion down-\\nwards, proved too much for me and, after long and per-\\nsevering efforts, I calmly abandoned myself to a perpetual\\ncondition of semi-conscious wriggling. The time seemed\\nto pass very slowly, as usual under such circumstances\\nbut after what appeared to be hours of wakefulness I at\\nlength dropped off, and did not rouse again, at least more\\nthan partially, till about 2.30 a.m. I had buried my face\\nso completely in the capote, and so closed every cranny\\nwith a handkerchief, that at first it was difficult to ascer-\\ntain the state of affairs, but an icy cold drop of water fall-\\ning on my nose through some unguarded chink roused me\\ncompletely, and on peering out, I perceived to my surprise\\nthat everything around was white, nearly an inch of snow", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0205.jp2"}, "206": {"fulltext": "126 A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO.\\nlay on my chest, and thick sleet mingled with fog was\\nfalling. The prospect was anything but cheering, and my\\nfeelings were so nearly akin to the painful, that I confess\\nthe thought of having to hold out for some hours more\\nwas peculiarly unwelcome. Still, though cold, I felt I\\ncould yet bid defiance to the weather, and any grumblings\\nthat tried to make themselves heard were silenced by the\\nsense of satisfaction at the manner in which my bag bore\\nthe severe test to which it was exposed. A temperature of\\n2-5\u00c2\u00b0 C. (27*5\u00c2\u00b0 Fahr.), as shown by a thermometer pro-\\ntected from radiation, snow, wind, and damp, the worst\\npossible combination in short, were all rendered endurable\\nby its means, and this in itself was worth finding out at\\nthe expense of some little personal discomfort. Mean-\\nwhile, the guides were, I fear, in much more miserable\\nplight for though tolerably protected, and having the\\nadvantage of mutual warmth, they naturally were unsup-\\nported by the same enthusiasm, and from poor Peyrotte s\\nsack especially dolorous groans would from time to time\\nissue. I ventured to cheer him by suggesting that the\\nhonour of being the first subject of the king of Italy who\\nhad reached the summit of the Viso, and passed a night\\non it into the bargain, lasting for his life, and rendering\\nhim famous to generations of Bobbioites yet unborn, would\\namply atone for a few short hours of exposure. Besides,\\nit would recommend him to future travellers, who might\\ntake him as guide on the strength of this performance. I\\nfound, however, that all my eloquence was wasted, and", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0206.jp2"}, "207": {"fulltext": "Ynhrenntit\\n3.0. in- 2]r-,5 Tak* 2nkai*", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0207.jp2"}, "208": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0208.jp2"}, "209": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0209.jp2"}, "210": {"fulltext": "6.a.7Ti. f Key dispaiT uF iaktno oj s e-rva.fr on i", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0210.jp2"}, "211": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MONTE VISO. 127\\nthat he would have sacrificed the brilliant future portrayed\\nhad it been in his power to escape. Thus time went on,\\nand sometimes we dozed, and sometimes we peered out\\ninto the mist to see if there were any signs of its disappear-\\ning; but at length, about 5.15, there being no appearance\\nof improvement, our little encampment was broken up, a\\nhasty breakfast taken, and the barometer observed and put\\nup in a very rusty condition from its long exposure to the\\ndamp. At six, despairing of any opportunity for using the\\ntheodolite, which had been dragged up with considerable\\ntrouble, we set out on our return.\\nAs we descended the snow gradually diminished, then\\nceased altogether, and at last we emerged from the cloud\\nwhich hung densely round the upper portion of the moun-\\ntain and clung to it throughout the day. The fresh-fallen\\nsnow rendered caution necessary, and our progress was\\nslow, but at 7.45 we reached the foot of the steepest por-\\ntion of the descent, about half an hour above the tarns\\nalready described, and halting till 8.15 for breakfast,\\narrived at the chalets in about two hours more, or at\\n10.15. The time occupied in the ascent and descent was\\ntherefore 7\u00c2\u00a3 and 4 J hours respectively, including halts,\\nwhich amounted to an hour and a half in the first case,\\nand half an hour in the second. At 2.30, we proceeded\\ndown the Vallon di Vallante to Ponte Castello, whence a\\npleasant walk of little more than an hour towards the head\\nof the Val Vraita brought us, at 4.45, to La Chianale, thus\\nterminating a most interesting expedition.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0211.jp2"}, "212": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0212.jp2"}, "213": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nHills draw like Heaven,\\nAnd stronger sometimes, holding out their hands\\nTo prill you from the vile flats up to them.\\nE. B. Browning.\\nAh bitter chill it was\\nThe owl, for all his feathers, was a-cold\\nThe hare limp d trembling through the frozen grass,\\nAnd silent was the flock in woolly fold.\\nKeats.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0213.jp2"}, "214": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0214.jp2"}, "215": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA\\nA HEAVY storm of wind and rain and snow had kept\\nus prisoners all day, and we had nearly exhausted\\nour resources. The stove in the little salon could not be\\nlighted, on account of the smoke; and even with the\\npiano (which is a very good one), the most ardent musician\\ncould not have supported life there for many hours if he\\nwere to be entirely dependent on the warmth of his feel-\\nings for any extra amount of caloric. The great salle-a-\\nmanger was still in process of preparation for the season,\\nand damp with premonitory scrubbings. There remained\\nthe stube and the cafe. In the latter apartment we had\\nspent many hours, and found them somewhat tedious.\\nThe clouds were low in the valley, and there was no view.\\nWe had read through the last pile of serials and papers\\nfrom England. We had written our journals; had painted\\nnumberless small studies of wild-flowers, with mosses,\\nleaves, and branches of wood and stones grey and golden\\nwith lichens, much to the astonishment of the kellnerin,\\nwho, when E. challenged her admiration for her handful\\nof treasures, said, Ah, yes, she noticed that the foreigners", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0215.jp2"}, "216": {"fulltext": "132 SKETCHES FROM TO^TRESINA.\\ncared for sticks as for her, she saw so many pieces of\\nwood, she was accustomed to them.\\nWe had the great hotel almost to ourselves, and had\\ntaken vigorous exercise in the large unfurnished rooms,\\nand up and down the passages, and still the pitiless snow\\nfell, and the wind blew, rattled against the windows, and\\nshook the jalousies, making us humble and imploring as to\\nthe matter of fuel, in which we considered ourselves some-\\nwhat stinted. Half frozen, and sighing for real summer\\nand warmth, we appealed to Frau Grredig in the choicest\\nGrerman, explaining our sufferings that we, delicate\\nEnglish, were not accustomed to reside in ice-houses, to\\nbe frozen to the floors, to warm ourselves over the eggs at\\nbreakfast; and live through the afternoons on the thought\\nof securing a little steam from the urn at tea. Feel our\\nhands, madame, and see how we suffer\\nFrau Grredig had not a bad heart. For a moment, as\\nshe took the suffering ringers into her maternal grasp, her\\ncountenance relaxed, a gleam of compassion shone in her\\neye, and a cry for more fuel trembled on her lips but\\nsecond thoughts proved safest. With a vigorous rub she\\nadministered present consolation and a valuable moral\\ntruth.\\nIt is not the fault of the climate that you suffer,\\nFraulein. I am not cold my sister is not cold and\\nwhy We run about from morning till night. My head\\nand my hands are full. We have to think and plan, and", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0216.jp2"}, "217": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTKESINA. 133\\ndo for you all, and ach, mein Grott, sind wir nicht warm\\ngenug\\nDriven from all hope of external comfort, we evolved\\nheat from our internal consciousness, and warmed our-\\nselves by the brilliancy of our own imaginations. D. and\\nC. had conceived a wonderful thought. We would utilize\\nthe snow. We would plan a day of delights to be realized\\nfrom it, the very thought of which would cause every flake\\nthat fell to be hailed with jubilations. We would make a\\ngrand schlitten partie to the Bernina Pass. A messenger\\nwas sent to summon Walther, and we all eagerly discussed\\npreliminaries.\\nBartholome Walther, one of the pleasantest guides in\\nSwitzerland, and a capital one for ladies, had been with\\nus as a sort of travelling-servant for some weeks past\\nduring our wanderings in Tyrol, and, though now off\\nduty, was still considered as belonging, in a semi-attached\\nfashion, to our party. He lived in one of the large houses\\nforming the main street of the little Pontresina village,\\nwhich, as it is a fair type of the homes of the people, may\\nbe worth a word or two of description. On the ground-\\nfloor was a small shop, a stable for cows and horses, a\\ndairy well stocked, a large dark entrance-hall, roughly\\npaved, with the usual arched wooden doors, a staircase\\nleading to a hay-loft, where a bergivagen was stowed away,\\n(how they got their carriages there I could never tell,\\nbut you invariably found them on the first floor,) and a", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0217.jp2"}, "218": {"fulltext": "134 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\npleasant little stube or living-room, wainscoted with wood,\\nbuilt like a nest into the great stone and plaster erection,\\nthe deep setting of the window, gay with flowering plants\\nand shrubs, showing how great the cold must be in winter,\\nand somewhere under the eaves no doubt a little colony\\nof sleeping-rooms, into which we did not penetrate. It\\nis a sort of home farm; everything is stored under the\\none roof, and when the long dark winter days set in,\\nthe women s work at least may be done under shelter.\\nMadame Walther, a pleasant-faced, soft-voiced woman,\\nalways made us very welcome, and she and her little\\ndaughter were proud to show their pans of rich cream and\\nstores of butter. Nine months of winter and three of\\nbad weather, say the Engadine peasants. They are wise,\\ncertainly, to gather all they can under their home eaves.\\nThe men, who during their short season are employed as\\nguides by travellers, busy themselves when the strangers\\nhave departed in carrying on their wine-trade with the\\nValtelline. Early in the morning men and horses start\\nfor the summit of the Bernina Pass, floundering through\\nthe deep snow, the good clever beasts sometimes moving\\nsteadily forward on their knees, when unable to keep their\\nfooting, till they reach the shelter of the hut which marks\\nthe highest ground, and here they meet the people from\\nthe southern valleys with their casks of wine. Three or\\nfour times a week the journey is made, the Engadiners\\nreturning with well-laden sleighs to the village.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0218.jp2"}, "219": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FEOM PONTRESINA. 135\\nWalther entered with proper spirit into our plans and\\nwishes, promised us great enjoyment for the morrow, fine\\nweather, and plenty of snow; two Bevgwagen were to be at\\nthe door at eight o clock, and we went to sleep in a state\\nof high contentment, to dream of wonderful adventures\\nand successes. We were up early, and, breakfast over,\\nstarted in full mountaineering costume, well prepared for\\nwhatever might befal us, with linsey or serge dresses\\narranged as riding-habits in case of need, boots stout and\\nstrong and rich in nails, our especial pride and boast,\\nalpen-stocks, coloured spectacles, veils, and linen masks,\\nthe weisse Teufel head-dresses now becoming well\\nknown to Swiss natives as another wonderful idiosyncrasy\\nof the English. The men had provided two very small\\nsledges, but we were as yet ignorant of how they could by\\nany possibility be good at need. Walther had arranged\\nfor the regular post sledges to be ready for us when we\\nreached the snow. The day was perfectly cloudless, the\\nsky of the deepest blue, the marvellously beautiful range of\\nthe Bernina Piz Palii, Piz Bernina, Piz Morteratsch, and\\nother mighty mountains rising up in almost dazzling\\nwhiteness against the clear background of colour. The\\nsun was pleasantly warm, even at that early hour, and\\nthere was fortunately very little wind we were in the\\nhighest possible spirits, and prepared to find amusement\\nout of everything the horses even seemed to share our\\nenjoyment, as they trotted on, tossing their heads to the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0219.jp2"}, "220": {"fulltext": "136 SKETCHES FROM PONTIiESINA.\\nmerry music of their bells and the gay songs of the drivers.\\nAs the way grew steeper we were glad to walk and to get\\nthoroughly warmed by exercise, before encountering a pos-\\nsible snow-bath higher up. The road is a new one, made\\nabout three years ago, but still liable to much injury from\\nthe avalanches, which have been unusually frequent dur-\\ning this year. In some places all the telegraph posts were\\ndestroyed, and a sad desolation marked the course of the\\nsnow uprooted trees and masses of stone and broken\\nwalls showing where it had passed.\\nWe halted at the Bernina Wirthshaus, rather less than\\ntwo hours from Pontresina, to order dinner to be ready on\\nour return, and then climbed still higher the snow lying\\nthickly all around us, not even a tree or rock to be seen,\\nnothing but a white wilderness, with soft blue shadows in\\nthe hollows of the hills and solemnly marking our way\\nlike silent fingerposts of fate, the telegraph poles rose at\\nregular intervals, struggling up through the mass of snow,\\nsometimes scarcely showing a few feet above the ground,\\nthough our road so far had been dug out and beaten hard,\\nand the travelling was by no means bad but suddenly it\\ncame to an end, winter reasserted itself, and the snow had\\nit all its own way. We dismounted, fastened on with\\ngreat care spectacles and masks, the men following our\\nexample, and arranging their veils and glasses, and then\\nbusying themselves in transferring the horses to the sledges,\\nwhich were lying by the side of the road, fastening the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0220.jp2"}, "221": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 137\\nseats from our bergwagen on to the slight wooden frame-\\nwork of the runners. We watched, meanwhile, with much\\namusement, a drove of small black pigs who were dis-\\nporting themselves on the snow, being ignominiously\\ncaptured by a leg or an ear, and tossed into a cart, where\\nthey subsided into a most uncomfortable heap, with\\nshrieks guttural and expostulatory.\\nThe sledges were soon prepared, and we mounted to our\\nplaces, D. and E., under Walther s care, heading the pro-\\ncession. They were very well off, the guide having\\nfastened the seat of his bergtvagen bodily, by means of\\ncords, to the runners, so that they had something to cling\\nto besides each other. Mrs. C. and C. were not so\\nfortunate, they being enthroned on a long box, sitting\\nback to back, with a loose cross-board for the feet, and\\nnothing particular to lay hold of. A few yards brought us\\nto the place where a gang of labourers were at work\\ncutting out the roadway unfortunately they had begun\\nlaterally, and a great slice of hard snow was already gone,\\nleaving only a narrow ledge or shelf, not wide enough for\\nour carriages. But the peasants were good-natured, and\\nwilling to put their shoulders to the wheel that is to say\\n(having a strict regard to truth), they held up the runners\\non one side to prevent our toppling over and that\\ndifficulty passed, we dashed on in famous style. The\\nworkmen, with their veiled faces and goggle eyes, standing\\nsilently in the dismal trenches, looked like a troop of weird", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0221.jp2"}, "222": {"fulltext": "138 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nghosts, who had somehow strayed from the Inferno, and\\nwere fated to dig their way down again into the darkness,\\nwhile we mere earthly travellers passed on into higher\\nair.\\nThe horses rushed over the snow, and flung up the cold\\nwhite masses into our faces, pelting us with snow-balls\\nwith their eager feet a man stood behind each sledge\\nbalanced between the runners, and drove over our heads,\\nwith shout and song urging on the horses. Whenever we\\ndared to turn our heads the sight was one never to be for-\\ngotten C. and her companion, in an agony of terror and\\nlaughter, holding on by the strength of a fixed determi-\\nnation, and looking out despairingly for side jolts which\\nmight upset their equilibrium. A joyful shout reached us,\\nand Mrs. C. announced that she had found a rope to hold\\nby, and was very comfortable a short-lived happiness, as\\nthe next moment she discovered she had been clinging to\\nher own crinoline, from which no difficulties of the way\\nhad ever separated her.\\nWe went on and on, the only moving things in that\\nbeautiful still snow world, except one little marmot, who\\nraced away in the distance, uttering his shrill cry a lake\\nlay near us, but so covered over that only here and there\\na green glimmer of ice was to be seen. The mountains\\nwere entirely veiled, the great gallery on the Italian side\\nwas roofed with snow, which was piled up within and\\nabout it. Here our expedition ended, as we did mot wish", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0222.jp2"}, "223": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 139\\nto give our poor horses a toilsome ascent so dismounting,\\nwe walked down the hill, and plunged into the soft bank\\nbeside the road, gaining the entrance to the first arches in\\norder to see the immense icicles that fringed them, and\\nthen prepared to return in different order, D. being anxious\\nto try her power of keeping her place on the wooden box.\\nThe pace was glorious, and it was the greatest possible fun\\nto spin along through the snow great hard masses balling\\nunder us, and throwing sledge, and seat, and travellers\\nsuddenly from side to side, as we dashed round corners,\\nhalf blinded by the dazzling brightness the cold and the\\nspeed at which we went taking away our breath with\\nalmost a terror of delight. Writing now in a warm quiet\\nEnglish home, such raptures sound too foolish to repeat,\\nbut our enjoyment was ecstatic while it lasted, our sen-\\nsations so entirely new, except in so far as old childish\\ndreams came back of wonderful Siberian journeys, and\\ntales of adventure with dogs and reindeer. And then it\\nwas our own escapade, and had not been cut and dried,\\nand arranged for us by the powers that be There had not\\nbeen such a season for thirty years, and there might never\\nbe another when such an expedition could be made in June.\\nOf course, there could never be another of that we felt\\nquite sure, and we laughed in our content, like a rabid\\nconnoisseur who hugs himself in silent delight over the\\ncontemplation of a rare engraving, knowing that the plate\\nhas been destroyed.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0223.jp2"}, "224": {"fulltext": "140 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nOur day was unique, a beautiful completeness, which\\ncould only live again in our memories.\\nAnd then there was the dinner. Other people may\\ncome to that little inn, and may dine there, but not with\\nsuch appetites as ours. And again fortune favoured us\\nthere had been a wedding on the Sunday, and the remains\\nof the feast graced the board. In romantic descriptions\\nof the highest class it is inadmissible to speak of a table\\nsimply as such whatever may be the number of its legs,\\nwhether it be round or square or oblong, it invariably\\nbecomes a board and generally groans and this practice\\nprobably originated the first idea of mahogany as a\\nspiritual habitat it may to many minds afford a trium-\\nphant refutation of the notions of idle cavillers who\\nprofess to regard the legends of Tintagel as vague myths,\\nthat the knights of King Arthur invariably met at a table,\\nthe use of that simple word conveying a sense of remote\\nantiquity, and a quaint rudeness of expression, bearing,\\nby all rules of criticism, a genuine stamp of truth that\\nmust be perfectly irresistible Fancy an erection of spun\\nsugar and a bouquet of roses in a little wainscoted salon,\\nthrough the windows of which we looked out on nothing\\nbut the same dream of snow. That sugar temple and\\nthe flowers added the element of poetry to the adventure\\nwhich was lacking in our prosaic and realistic minds. We\\ngrew sentimental with the good Wirthin over their festivi-\\nties, and rested and talked and fraternised with the bright-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0224.jp2"}, "225": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0225.jp2"}, "226": {"fulltext": "^W^r^s\\nOirr sehiiffen -paTtie*!", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0226.jp2"}, "227": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 141\\nfaced domestics, examined the kitchen, and saw that our\\nmen were well cared for and then, just as a lazy content\\nwas stealing over us, and even a somnolent tendency had\\nmanifested itself in Mrs. C, we were summoned by Walther\\nand his companion, who carried the small sledges slung by\\nropes over their shoulders. These are less than a yard\\nlong, and about eighteen inches in width, and are formed\\nof small transverse pieces of wood, attached to iron run-\\nners, the rope being fastened to the front.\\nThe men walked up a steep slope of snow, and we\\nplodded after them, with many stumbles in the soft mass.\\nAt last, landed on a piece of stone which offered sure\\nfooting, we prepared to start. Seating ourselves on the\\nsledges, with our feet extended, we steered ourselves, and\\nby a vigorous dig with our heels could come to a stop at\\npleasure. At first, the men took the ropes and ran with\\nus, but the sensation was horrible of being dragged into\\ninfinite space, with nothing earthly to hold to, but crumb-\\nling or melting snow. When, however, we took the reins\\ninto our own hands the whole thing was different, and be-\\ncame an indescribable pleasure a swift shooting through\\nthe air without sense of obstruction. I began to realise\\nwhat a fine time, if they were only sentient, the arrows\\nwould have belonging to an archery club, where the\\nmembers were not clever enough to hit anything. But\\nthat was the difficulty, the one flaw in the perfect enjoy-\\nment of our performance there was an end to it.\\nK 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0227.jp2"}, "228": {"fulltext": "142 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nAs a Frenchman once graphically remarked: Dans\\nune chnte il y a deux moments terribles: le depart et\\nl arrivee. Le voyage en lui-meme n est rien. On cite\\nmeme un macon qui, tombant d un cinquieme etage,\\nadressait au ciel, pendant la traversee, cette fervente\\npriere Mon Dieu, pourvu que 9a dure\\nThe sun had considerable power, and it was hard work\\nto struggle up to the starting-post, marked by an alpen-\\nstock, preparatory to each fresh glissade. At last, fairly\\nexhausted, E. took refuge with Mrs. C, who had camped\\nout on a damp piece of grass, a wholesome dread of wet\\nfeet having made all our descriptions of delight fall heed-\\nlessly on her ears. For a few minutes longer D. and C.\\nran races against each other, a sudden unlucky turn of the\\nfoot bringing up now one, $ow the other, as a very bad\\nsecond, in a snow-drift, while the winner was often pre-\\ncipitated most ingloriously into the cold soft mass at the\\nbottom of the slope.\\nThe hours had passed so pleasantly that we hardly\\nrealised how rapidly the shadows were lengthening, till\\nthe Bergwagen were announced to be ready, and it was\\ntime to turn our face homewards. Contented and weary,\\nwe were glad to find ourselves once more rattling down\\nthe road, and we reached our old quarters as a golden\\nglow passing over the tops of the fir-trees, and shining\\nthrough the tufts and branches of the great Arolla pines,\\nleft the earth in a cold, frosty twilight, settled down for a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0228.jp2"}, "229": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0229.jp2"}, "230": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0230.jp2"}, "231": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 143\\nmoment like a veil of light over the higher mountains,\\nand then faded slowly into the pale clear greenness of the\\nevening sky.\\nWe spent more than ten days at Pontresina, the plea-\\nsantest possible headquarters for mountaineers or for\\nladies. The valley is at an elevation of nearly six thou-\\nsand feet, and the air is deliciously fresh and bracing,\\neven in July and early as we were there, with sunshine\\nand fine weather, the cold was very bearable and wonder-\\nfully invigorating. The history of each day would fill a\\nlong paper, and cannot be given here. A morning on the\\nMorteratsch glacier was among our pleasantest expedi-\\ntions the ice was in good order, comfortably crumbly on\\nthe surface, and affording us plenty of foothold. You\\nmay walk for miles over this great sea of dirty ice, which\\nis anything but beautiful, as there are none of the aiguilles\\nwhich make the great charm of the Oberland glaciers, and\\nvery little colour. Here and there in a deep crevasse, one\\nsees a tinge of soft sea-green, and the moulins, formed by\\nlittle hidden streams forcing their way through the fissures,\\nmake an amusing variety in one s path but as a whole, it\\nis decidedly dull. At least, I can only write of it as we\\nfound it, and we may be told that as a whole we did not\\nsee it, for truth obliges me to confess that wonderful\\ndescriptions of the beauty and grandeur of the ice-fall,\\ncombining the solemnity of cathedral architecture and", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0231.jp2"}, "232": {"fulltext": "144 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nthe fantastic decorations of a Chinese pagoda, Druidical\\nbeards and dripping caves gleaming with diamonds in the\\nsunlight/ have reached us from those who penetrated\\nfurther than an inexorable fate allowed us to proceed. In\\nour experience, the cracks in the ice were only a few\\ninches apart, so there was nothing to jump over, and\\nduring our expedition it afforded such good foothold that\\nthere was no excuse for slipping. The amphitheatre of\\nhills enclosing this great frozen sea has few rivals in\\ngrandeur, when, as we saw it, a great white mantle of\\nsnow sweeping from each summit, falls as in soft, noiseless\\nfolds, to meet the rugged mass of ice below. The little\\nwoods skirting the end of the glacier are full of beauty,\\nand near by there is a waterfall that in any other place\\nwould alone he an object of pilgrimage. The water-\\nmeadows were like a brilliant flower-bed, gay with patches\\nof gentians and forget-me-nots, masses of purple primulas,\\nyellow pansies, and delicate little soldinella and clustering\\nround the stones and rocks were sweet-scented daphnes\\nand white crocuses, which sprout up on the barest-looking\\nground a few hours after the snow has melted from its\\nsurface.\\nThese meadows, and the woods which skirt them, had a\\nwonderful charm for us. A broad river flowed through\\nthe midst, often spreading itself over the valley when the\\nwarm sun melted the snows, and when the waters drew\\nback again into their stony channel, grass, and moss, and", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0232.jp2"}, "233": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. U!\\nflowers sprang up on the instant into vivid life the trees\\ncast their twisted roots about the soil to hold it fast, bind-\\ning it with grey lichens and little fir twigs, and a soft\\ncarpet of dead leaves from last year s store; and before\\nthe hay was grown and there could be the sweet summer\\nscent of mown grass drying in the wind, there was every-\\nwhere a garden of flowers, golden and violet, with soft\\npink blooms, and the blue gentians with their bright little\\neyes the stones were encrusted with orange and scarlet\\nlichens, and gray fringes hung in festoons from the old\\ntrees the ice in great billows and ridges came down into\\nthe grass, turning it back in long furrows in its steady\\nadvance year by year, and down the rocks rivulets of cold\\nsnow-water trickled from among the stones, bubbled up\\nunder the moss, and turned into a sudden cloud of spray\\nas they sprang from any jutting crag into the river at their\\nfeet; and far above, as solemn sentinels, the great snow\\nmountains closed around the valley. Days among the\\nAlps, though full of commonplace adventure and merri-\\nment, and the prose of ordinary life a little caricatured,\\nare rich in deeper thoughts and feeling. There is a\\nstronger spell than the mere love of exercising their\\nmuscles or the desire to conquer a new peak that takes\\nmen to the mountains, and he must have a poverty-\\nstricken soul who does not return humbler indeed, but\\ncalmed and strengthened by a fresh revelation of the\\nDivine power in which his life can rest.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0233.jp2"}, "234": {"fulltext": "146 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nThe contrast of these mighty forces of nature, ice and\\nsnow, torrent and avalanche, mist and cloud, and desolating\\npower, and the tender beauty of the grass and flowers, and\\ngentler life, held as in the hollow of a strong hand, was\\nvery wonderful to see. This Morteratsch valley was a\\nplace that the old myths would have made beautiful and\\npalpitating with life. Fair-faced Persephone might have\\nwandered through those meadows dimly conscious of a\\ngreat dread where the cold darkness from the ice-caves\\nfell across her path, as the mountain torrent spreading\\nround her feet swept her away into the shadows. One\\ndreams of a time when grand old Pan was strong and\\nlusty, and could sing\\nIn my great veins a music as of boughs\\nWhen the cool aspen-fingers of the Eain\\nFeel for the eyelids of the Earth in spring\\nand Dryads made their home in the depths of the wood,\\nwhere gnarled and twisted branches, gray-bearded and old,\\nlook like evil beings expiating their sins and cramped with\\nrheumatism.\\nEvening after evening we watched the clouds draw\\naway from the mountain tops, till they stood clear against\\nthe sky the sunshine died from the earth, the fir-trees\\ngrew black, and a chill dimness crept over the soft gray\\nmeadows, and then suddenly a little flush spread over the\\ncrests of the mountains, and deepened into a rosy delight", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0234.jp2"}, "235": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 147\\none or two stray cloudlets caught the glory, that like a\\ngreat radiant smile touched them as it past, and then\\nslowly the light faded a special beatitude vouchsafed to\\nthe great mountains, emblems of purity and strength a\\nhost of Fra Angelico s gentle seraphs with their pink and\\nviolet wings might have sung there their Gloria in Excelsis,\\nand sent their light upon the hills. And then came night,\\nand a frosty stillness and clear heaven studded with stars,\\nand a cold moonlight over silver snow.\\nIn our wood walks up the Eoseg Thai we often en-\\ncountered droves of the long-eared sheep from the Italian\\nvalleys, driven to the Alpine pastures by their Bergamesque\\nshepherds, picturesque fellows, with dark, handsome\\nsouthern faces under the shadow of their broad hats,\\nroughly dressed in skins and leather leggings, tanned like\\ntheir faces by exposure to wind and weather.\\nA few miles away by the road and an hour distant from\\nPontresina by a footpath through the wood, is the great\\nBad-haus of St. Moritz, a ghastly water-cure establishment,\\nmuch frequented by true believers of all nations where a\\nheterogeneous multitude are stowed away in hundreds of\\nlittle rooms, and live together in great cold salons, and\\nfeed together, each after his own fashion in the matter of\\nforks or fingers, in an enormous salle a manger, and kill\\ntime by drinking the waters, walking up and down the\\npassages, and watching for the diligence which has kindly\\nconsented to go so far out of its way as to come round in", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0235.jp2"}, "236": {"fulltext": "148 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nfront of the great etablissement, for the accommodation and\\namusement of the sufferers.\\nBeyond St. Moritz, there are little lakes, lying like\\ngems set in a forest of pines, and more mountains, and\\nwood, and waterfalls to be visited, all within easy reach of\\nHerr Grredig s pleasant headquarters.\\nOur time at Pontresina was coming to an end, and we\\nhad been unable to accomplish the ascent of the Piz\\nLanguard, an old friend we were anxious to revisit but\\nthe quantity of snow, and its soft state, had hitherto made\\nsuch an expedition impossible. F. and his companion had\\njoined us after a most successful ascent of the Piz Bernina\\nby a new route, and entertained us with wonderful stories\\nof their capture by the Austrians, as Italian spies of\\na sudden attack made on them when peacefully reposing\\nin a hay-loft of a night-march with fixed bayonets down\\na horribly bad path the completion of their broken\\nslumbers in an Austrian fortress, the bayonets still on\\nguard and of a triumphant and apologetic acquittal from\\nthe gallant commandant in the morning. In our state of\\nexcitement and suspense as to news from the army, which\\ngenerally came to us first through the English papers,\\nthough there were Swiss troops at the time in the village,\\nany one fresh from the frontier was doubly welcome, and\\nour travellers joined us with somewhat of a halo of\\nromance and as to the guides, they were very great men\\nindeed, and were duly glorified over wine and tobacco in", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0236.jp2"}, "237": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 149\\nthe stube. If the four were not patriots, they had been\\nconsidered a sufficiently good imitation, and vividly before\\nthe imaginations of all hovered images of the horrors of an\\nAustrian dungeon\\nChristian Aimer, one of the heroes, looked as though he\\nhad been kept on bread and water, and then dried and\\nsmoked. I never saw anything human so like an Egyptian\\nmummy or a red-herring but his miserable condition\\nwas really due to the amount of work that had been\\naccomplished, and the great cold they had encountered.\\nThree passes and two new Spitze in twenty-four hours take\\nsomething out of a man, even the strongest, when you\\nhave twenty-five degrees of frost at your lunching place.\\nThe weather had broken up and looked very doubtful,\\nbut with this accession to our numbers we were deter-\\nmined to make an attempt on the mountain. Walther\\nand ten or twelve men went up on the Saturday to try to\\nmake a little path through the snow by digging and\\nstamping it hard and this they succeeded in doing in a\\ndegree near the summit, where the snow lay less thickly\\non the stones, but anything like a tract was hopeless\\nlower down. On Monday morning we were all called\\nsoon after two the clouds looked threatening,- but at that\\nearly hour it was difficult to judge how the day would turn\\nout, and we hoped, at any rate, to make a good start. It\\nis wonderful how the most glowing anticipations we may\\nhave indulged in over night pale in the uncertain glimmer", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0237.jp2"}, "238": {"fulltext": "150 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nof dawn. The only sensation E. admitted to being vividly-\\nconscious of, was a profound desire that some one\\nwould say it was raining hard, and there was nothing to\\nbe done but to go to sleep again. Of course this feeble\\nexpostulation of the flesh was crushed back instantly, and\\nour spirits rising with the first plunge into cold water, we\\nprepared to encounter hopefully the experiences of the\\ncoming day.\\nWe had invited some English acquaintances to join our\\nparty Major and Mrs. L., who were staying with us at\\nthe hotel, and Mr. N. and Lady L. N., from St. Moritz\\nand as we mustered our forces in the salon over an early\\nbreakfast, we rejoiced over the prospect of a successful\\nascent. It was very cold, and we were glad of warm\\ndresses and plenty of wraps. C. was to remain behind\\nbut a party of nine, exclusive of servants, started on\\nhorseback and on foot at three o clock, with porters laden\\nwith provisions, three first-rate guides, and a following of\\nboys or men belonging to the beasts. We rode for the\\nfirst two hours in single file, with shouting comments on\\nour steeds, on the weather, and on the comforts and dis-\\ncomforts of our saddles. These were wonderful construc-\\ntions, on which you were mounted high above the horse s\\nshoulder and very far forward padded seats, on which it\\nis difficult to keep your balance without pommel or stirrup,\\na flat board being substituted for the latter, which it is\\nhopeless to try to grasp with your foot. Mrs. C. exhausted", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0238.jp2"}, "239": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 151\\nherself by her efforts to sustain nobly her equestrian\\nreputation. One or two of the party were first-rate\\nhorsewomen; but the Engadine mounts tried their\\nmettle more than a five-barred gate or a stone-wall\\ncountry with the hounds at home and at every stumble\\nof the animals during the slippery ascent a rider would\\nfall forwards on the neck of the horse, or be jolted almost\\nover its tail, with many outcries and much laughter. Poor\\nLady L. N. had provided herself with an English saddle,\\nand set off in happy security, but her pony and the saddle\\nwould not fit the pony was fat and the saddle was angular;\\nand the mathematical problem how to make a round body\\nfit into a square hole was proved to be insoluble, and the\\nhopelessness of the attempt was illustrated by a sudden\\ndescent of the hapless rider, first on one side, then on the\\nother, as the poor beast struggled up the winding path.\\nThe track, such as it was, came to an end with the first\\nsnow, and here we dismissed our horses, and prepared\\nfor work. And now we discovered a flaw in the perfection\\nof our mountaineering costume, which we had considered\\nvery perfect. Our riding-habits were looped well up over\\nlinsey petticoats, and the feminine mind exulted in the\\nstrong hobnailed boots, which looked as if they meant\\nwork; but unfortunately Mrs. L alone had supplied\\nherself with the leather leggings, which all travellers\\nought to know are essential to the comfort of any one\\nintending to encounter a tramp through snow, and we", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0239.jp2"}, "240": {"fulltext": "152 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nthus found ourselves dependent on the charity of our\\ncompanions. With great care and much expenditure of\\npackthread, some leather or cloth gaiters, generously\\nsubscribed on the instant, were fastened over our boots\\nbut as the fit was by no means perfect, they soon became\\nclogged with snow, and proved a very doubtful blessing.\\nBy this time clouds had gathered above us and round\\nthe higher mountains, and were rapidly rising below us,\\ncovering the valley and the little green lakes, and leaving\\nstretched before us an uncomfortable mass of snow, with\\nhere and there a little oasis of stones, the only landmarks\\nin its dreary uniformity. It was very cold, a drizzling rain\\nbegan to fall, and our spirits sank rapidly. Light and\\nsunshine would have made us go on our way rejoicing,\\nbut in the grey cold bleak dimness it was a dreary pro-\\nspect-to go up and up through deep snow into a cloud of\\nsnow-flakes, knowing all the time that we must come\\ndown again. However, all being ready, we made our final\\nplunge. F. put an ice-axe on his shoulder, and E. held\\nfirmly by the iron, keeping her alpenstock in the other\\nhand; and in single file we began the march. A few\\nsteps, and we were in a snowdrift, up to our knees, then\\nto our waists, so firmly wedged into the soft mass that each\\nstep was a weary labour, and every muscle was strained\\nand stretched before another yard could be gained.\\nFor the first moment we felt thoroughly miserable\\nand frightened, fancying the next we might go in over", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0240.jp2"}, "241": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTEESINA. 153\\nour hats, or that we might start an avalanche on our own\\naccount; but looking back at the slow procession of\\nfigures showing dark against the white background, in\\nevery attitude possible to struggling humanity, a sense of\\nthe ludicrousness of the whole thing came to our help,\\nand amid peals of laughter we all agreed to consider our\\ndifficulties infinitely amusing, and from that moment there\\nwas no one so mean-spirited as even to ask under their\\nbreath the reason of our encountering so much exertion,\\nand what we expected to see at the summit when we got\\nthere The clouds rose up beneath us like the black roof\\nof a tent under which villagers and tourists might be tran-\\nquilly sleeping, the mist closed in damp and impenetrable,\\nwrapping us in a veil disagreeable and unexhilarating in\\nthe highest degree. Ten minutes more of climbing and\\neverything was snow, and we were white all over, looking\\nlike rash pillars of salt during the process of transforma-\\ntion, except where our breath melted out little blue and\\nblack patches on our veils. We stepped and stumbled on\\nbravely; every now and then a cry would pierce the\\nsilence, and two or three men were needed to extricate\\nsome unlucky pedestrian who had come upon a soft bit,\\nand was half-stifled and unable to stir.\\nMrs. C. presented a gallant appearance, and with the\\nlarge hood of her caoutchouc heavy with snow, and a dole-\\nful dripping from the brim of her hat and nose and chin,\\nthe black draperies of her waterproof only relieved by", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0241.jp2"}, "242": {"fulltext": "154 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nvoluminous drab gaiters, she looked like an image of\\nFather Christmas thawing,, but cheery and brave even\\nunder difficulties.\\nOn we went, undeterred by the now certain knowledge\\nthat there was nothing to be seen from the Spitze. We\\nhad our provisions, and a luncheon party having been\\nplanned for the summit of the Piz Languard, there we\\nwould go, and eat our luncheon, and return with peaceful\\nconsciences to Pontresina.\\nThe latter part of the ascent was not really so difficult\\nas we had found it two years before, when the mass of\\nloose stones had added greatly to our fatigue these were\\nnow well carpeted, and the guides have built a sort of rude\\nstaircase for the last ten minutes of the way, which has the\\nadvantage of not rolling away beneath one s feet. At one\\nplace we had had to cross a great plateau of snow, so soft\\nthat progression was simply impossible to us. F. shouted,\\nGrentlemen to the front, and with hands and knees and\\naxes they literally pounded the snow hard. It was strange\\nto see how lightly guides and mountaineers walked over\\nthe yielding surface, which seemed much less affected by\\ntheir greater weight than where ladies attempted to try\\nthe same path by long practice they have acquired a per-\\nfect balance, which is, I imagine, the real secret of walking\\non snow successfully.\\nWe reached the final plateau, which is about half-a-\\ndozen yards across, in a heavy snow-storm, and being by", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0242.jp2"}, "243": {"fulltext": "Iti the, sti\u00c2\u00abwd.Ti[|-", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0243.jp2"}, "244": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0244.jp2"}, "245": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0245.jp2"}, "246": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0246.jp2"}, "247": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA. 155\\nthis time, spite of all precautions, thoroughly wet through,\\nwe dared not linger very long. To an outsider say the\\nSpirit of the Storm we must have presented a ludicrously\\nforlorn appearance, but that would only have been because\\nthe Spirit being German, or at least German Swiss, would\\nbe naturally phlegmatic, and unable to understand that\\nsterling quality of the British character which delights in\\nbeing jolly under difficulties, and enjoying life under an as-\\npect totally differing from insular civilization. The cham-\\npagne-bottles were opened, and we drank to the mountain\\nand our own success, and ate chickens and potted meats\\nand compote, a ravenous hunger serving as sauce piquante\\nand then the guides joined in chorus-, and the mountain\\nechoes rang again to the wild wonderful jodels so full of\\nunutterable joy and music to every Fuhrer s and Berg-\\nsteiger s heart. We were dripping at our elbows and sit-\\nting in pools of water, while the great snow-flakes soaked\\nour bread and settled in the salt, and came down so\\nthoroughly in earnest that our hats and umbrellas were\\nheavy with them, and we dared not linger lest we should\\nsuddenly stiffen. The descent looked a little formidable,\\na snow slope ending in blackness and mist, and with many\\ninward tremblings a question was whispered as to how\\nwe were to get down. That soon settled itself. Franz\\nAndermatten, one of the merriest, sturdiest of Valais guides,\\nseized Lady L. N., and before she could utter one shriek\\nof protestation they were flying down far below us. Her\\nL", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0247.jp2"}, "248": {"fulltext": "156 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nhusband quickly glissaded after her, and we all followed\\naccording to our different fashions. Walther seated himself\\non the snow, and bade E. sit behind him, and then with\\na vigorous push swish they spun down, throwing up\\nsnow-balls and a white spray about their faces, till, safely\\nlanded at the first pile of stones, they could watch others de-\\nscending. F. had placed his plaid on the ground, and D.,\\nsitting on it, wound one end firmly round her, while he held\\nthe other, intending to draw her luxuriously down the slope;\\nbut the inclined plane being slightly uneven, D. swerved\\naside, and came down in the end headforemost, rather like\\na bundle of hay in a blanket, while Mrs. C. s dignified and\\nsuccessful glissade was in perfect keeping with her charac-\\nter. Major L. and his wife were old mountaineers and in\\ncapital training, and her walking powers cast the other\\nladies entirely into the shade, though, judging by their own\\naccounts at a later date, the performances of each had\\nbeen unrivalled. And thus with much laughter and enjoy-\\nment the ground was rapidly got over, and we found our-\\nselves at about twelve o clock once more standing on the\\nshort scrubby grass, which later in the year would turn\\nthis bare hill-side into pasture-land. Here the gaiters were\\nunfastened, snow shaken off, and a few drops of wine\\ntaken before we started for the final trudge home.\\nThe mind of Pontresina, agricultural and commercial,\\nis slow and conservative, and difficult to convince, and it\\nwas in vain we pleaded for the aid. of the horses on our", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0248.jp2"}, "249": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0249.jp2"}, "250": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0250.jp2"}, "251": {"fulltext": "SKETCHES FROM PONTEESINA. 157\\nreturn march. The owners resisted with dogged persistency\\nour most pathetic appeals our ancestors, if ever they had\\nascended the Piz Languard, had walked down again, and\\nso must we. There was no more to be said, and we were\\nnot long in descending through the little wood and the\\nmeadows above the village; but we must have looked a\\nvery motley company to any fresh eyes that encountered\\nus, judging by the amusement on C. s face when she met\\nus. One of our party who had fared the worst, her lighter\\ndress not having been prepared for such rough work, was\\nclothed in garments which by this time had assumed the\\ncolour and consistency of tea-leaves, while her boots were\\nliterally cut to pieces. We were warmly welcomed by\\nHerr Grredig at the Krone, that worthy landlord killing a\\nfatted calf in the gladness of his heart (at least this is our\\nonly way of accounting for the fact that veal formed the\\nchief ingredient of all dishes served on that and subsequent\\noccasions), and absolutely submitting even with cheerfulness\\nto the choice on our part of the hour for dinner. To those\\nby whom he is known, this fact will speak volumes. Herr\\nGredig has a great soul, but it moves in a narrow groove,\\nand he is a man who believes implicitly in precedent. The\\nlaw of the Gredigs of Pontresina, which altereth not, is\\ncarved on the door-post, and engraved on the ductile but\\nabject minds of his followers. It afforded us exquisite\\ngratification during our say to infringe the regulations\\nin every possible manner; and such was the ascendancy\\nL 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0251.jp2"}, "252": {"fulltext": "158 SKETCHES FROM PONTRESINA.\\nthat we acquired, that we were recognised as despots, and\\nwere graciously permitted on all occasions to eat our\\nAbendessen when we were hungry, and not when the\\ninmates of the Grasthaus zur Krone thought we ought\\nto be.\\nOur St. Moritz companions hurried off to seek dry clothes\\nand shelter, while the rest of our party adjourned in the\\nafternoon to Flury s studio, eliciting deep-drawn sighs\\nfrom that conscientious artist by desiring to be photo-\\ngraphed en masse (with a background of snow, and a grand\\nmoraine built up of loose stones), in perpetual remem-\\nbrance of our very successful ascent of the Piz Languard.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0252.jp2"}, "253": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE\\nSULDENTHAL.\\nIn these distracted times, when each man dreads\\nThe bloody stratagem of busy heads.\\nOtway.\\nFor what obscured light the heavens did grant,\\nDid but convey into our fearful minds\\nA doubtful warrant of immediate death.\\nComedy of Errors,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0253.jp2"}, "254": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0254.jp2"}, "255": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\nJune 18, 1866.\\n/CONSCIOUS of our own rectitude of intention, and con-\\nfirmed in it by the assurances of the police in the\\nVal di Sole, that der Krieg was, as the Germans finely\\nsay, noch nicht los, and that, if duly provided with\\nproperly vised passports, we might cross the frontier\\nwithout fear of molestation, my friend B. and I, with\\nour respective guides, Christian Aimer and Franz Ander-\\nmatten, proceeded quietly to carry out our plan of cam-\\npaign in the Orteler group, by first effecting (on June 16)\\na new pass from Cogolo and Pejo, in Val di Sole, to Sta.\\nCatarina. An account of this expedition, as weU as of the\\nsubsequent and very successful one from the last-named\\nplace to the Suldenthal, will be found in the September\\nnumber of the Alpine Journal, 1866, and I will not weary\\nthe reader with topographical details which he may find\\nelsewhere. Suffice it to say that, having despatched most\\nof our baggage direct to Bormio, we had left Sta. Catarina\\nat 1 A.M. on June 18, intending to sleep at Grampenhofe\\nin the Suldenthal, and make our way thence to the Val-", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0255.jp2"}, "256": {"fulltext": "162 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\ntelline on the following day, by a pass between the\\nOrteler Spitz and Klein-Zebru. Before 3 P.M. the first\\nhalf of the programme had been accomplished in what we\\nflattered ourselves might be considered a brilliant manner,\\nfor in little more than ten hours actual walking we had\\nascended two hitherto unclimbed summits, La Fornaccia\\nand the S.W. or highest peak of the Cevedale, amongst\\nthe finest of the group, and discovered three first-class\\nnew passes, from 11,400 to 12,200 feet in height (the\\nlast being, I believe, the loftiest in the Austrian Alps),\\nbesides traversing a fourth, the beautiful Janiger Scharte,\\nfirst crossed last year by my friend Herr Mojsisovics, the\\nSecretary of the Austrian Alpen-Verein. Our reception\\nat Grampenhofe was most friendly the weather was\\ncharming, and promised well for the morrow and as we\\nlay stretched at our ease upon the soft turf, quaffing\\nbowls of creamy milk, in full view of the Orteler and\\nKonigsspitz, recalling pleasant memories of past triumphs,\\nand anticipating fresh victories, we might be pardoned if\\nour reflections were at times of an exultant order, as we\\nrested in happy unconsciousness of what a few hours were\\nto bring forth.\\nTravellers in the Suldenthal usually avail themselves\\nof the hospitality of the worthy Greistlicher at St. Gertrud\\n(or Sulden), about half-an-hour lower down the valley,\\nbut Grampenhofe itself, being inhabited throughout the\\nyear, furnishes better quarters than are usually to be met", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0256.jp2"}, "257": {"fulltext": "Sie. schlafe", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0257.jp2"}, "258": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0258.jp2"}, "259": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 163\\nwith at so considerable an elevation (6,165 feet), and\\nwithin a quarter of an hour of the foot of the glacier\\nhalf-an-hour, too, is worth saving in a long day s work, so\\nwe decided to let well alone, and contented ourselves\\nwith sending Christian and Franz down in the course of\\nthe afternoon for fresh supplies of cheese, bread, and wine,\\nwith which they returned in time for the evening meal.\\nOne by one the various members of the household dropped\\nin, and as soon as the table was cleared, a little entertain-\\nment was improvised for our worthy hosts and their\\nfamily, in the shape of sundry simple conjuring tricks,\\nwinding up with a display of 6 drawing-room lightning\\nand magnesium wire, a small store of which portable\\narticles can highly be recommended to mountaineers, as\\nan unfailing means of making themselves agreeable to\\nthe simple Alpine folk. Amidst shouts of Was fur\\nKunst 6 Das ist Hexerei and peals of merry laughter,\\nan hour passed away, and just as we began to hint at bed,\\nthe arrival of a small outlying Greisbube, whose duties as\\na sort of pastoral long-stop had detained him late afield,\\nthus causing him to miss the fun, was hailed by all as an\\nexcuse for a repetition of the special wonders, till we were\\nobliged to insist on the absolute necessity of betaking\\nourselves to rest. The supply of hay being small, it was\\nallotted to the guides, who retired to a neighbouring\\ngrange, whilst our hospitable hostess made up a com-\\nfortable bed for B. and me on the floor of the cozy Stube,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0259.jp2"}, "260": {"fulltext": "164 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\non which we stretched ourselves about 8*30, after giving\\ninstructions to be called a little after midnight.\\nAll had been quiet for about an hour, and B. and I\\nwere buried deep in our first sleep, when we were both\\nstartled and roused by a loud noise, and in a moment the\\nroom was half filled with a noisy gesticulating crowd of\\narmed men. At first, between sleeping and waking, we\\nhalf imagined them to be robbers, and I almost mechani-\\ncally sat up in bed with a vague idea of seizing one of\\nour ice-axes, which lay under a bench near at hand. A\\nmoment, however, sufficed to show that they were regular\\nsoldiers, two or three of whom advanced upon us with\\nfixed bayonets pointed at our breasts, whilst those in the\\nrear proceeded to load their rifles in the most business-\\nlike and unpleasantly suggestive manner. They shouted\\nto us in Italian and Grerman to lie down and not stir, or\\nthey would shoot us, and on our complying, with the\\nremark that we wished nothing better and should like to\\nknow why we were thus disturbed and what they wanted,\\nproceeded to put to us a string of enquiries as to whether\\nwe were Italians, whether we could speak Italian, how we\\ncame there, c, without giving us time to reply. It is\\nnot easy to answer violent interrogatories as you lie flat-\\non your back, and I again attempted to sit up in bed, but\\nwas immediately treated to a vigorous pantomime exe-\\ncuted with bayonets, which unmistakably suggested an\\n6 as you were movement. It was all very well for B. to", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0260.jp2"}, "261": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 165\\nlaugh, being himself inside and protected as to his\\nflank by me on one side and a table on the other, and\\nwith an all but bomb-proof duvet over all, so that he\\nwould have ample time to parley whilst our assailants\\nwere engaged, as John Bunyan says, in drilling a hole\\nin my carnal kettle past mending. Possibly, however,\\nmy thinness and the length of our assailants bayonets\\nsuggested the idea that he too might be spitted simul-\\ntaneously but, at any rate, when some of the men\\nagain addressed us in Italian, he gave them a condensed\\nstatement of facts, interspersed with bits of his mind,\\nin that language of which he is a master. Feeling\\nstronger in Teutonic tongues myself, and cunningly re-\\nflecting that, as it was clear they took us to be Italians,\\nit would be best to avoid all appearance of such evil\\ntendencies, I still stuck manfully to German, and dis-\\ncharged it vigorously at an angle of 90\u00c2\u00b0 from my recum-\\nbent position. The sudden waking, the semi-darkness,\\nand the general noise and tumult, coupled with the\\nstrangely excited demeanour of our visitors, their use of\\nItalian, and our own confused impressions, at first sug-\\ngested the theory that they too might have crossed the\\nfrontier; but as soon as we were fairly awake, we at\\nonce perceived that we had fallen into the hands of an\\nAustrian patrol. After a short time the sub-officer in\\ncommand, and a police official who accompanied him,\\ncame forward, whilst a party was detached to secure", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0261.jp2"}, "262": {"fulltext": "166 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\nour companions in. the hayloft, who presently made\\ntheir appearance, looking rather solemn and evidently\\na good deal ruffled, but keeping their tempers admi-\\nrably and offering no resistance, though they had been\\nstirred up in their nest with as little ceremony as our-\\nselves. We were now told that we might rise and put on\\nour coats, in the absence of which we had no documentary\\nproof of our nationality. We answered all their questions,\\nassured them that they had made a mistake and found a\\nmare s nest, exhibited our passports, the correctness of\\nwhich they could not dispute, and, when informed that we\\nmust submit to be searched, gave up the contents of our\\npockets without hesitation. I must say it went to my\\nheart to surrender my note-book with numerous sketches\\nand all my memoranda of the journey, as well as sundry\\nmaps, both printed and manuscript but I was almost\\nconsoled by the terror of the officer when he felt from the\\noutside the pipe which I carried in my right coat-pocket,\\nand made a convulsive grab at it, exclaiming, Sie haben\\nda eine Pistole Greben Sie s mir The truth is, that\\nin a spirit of mischief I had just before asked him\\nwhether he had secured our arms, and on his asking,\\nwith a most comical expression of consternation at this\\nconfirmation of his worst suspicions, where they were, had\\nreferred him to the bench beneath which our axes were\\nstill peacefully reposing. These were entrusted to four\\nsoldiers, but the mention of weapons suggested further", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0262.jp2"}, "263": {"fulltext": "Das tinePi stale*", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0263.jp2"}, "264": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0264.jp2"}, "265": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0265.jp2"}, "266": {"fulltext": "nit w.me-n all Lt. w .rfi rftt. ptiSon.r^\\nAV Frontier 1 ooka a little, dangerous", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0266.jp2"}, "267": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 167\\ninvestigation, and involved my pipe in undeserved suspi-\\ncion. Fiirchten Sie nicht es ist nicht geladen, said I,\\nand with an essentially Grerman sympathy for a Raucher\\nit was at once returned to me. Our purses, watches, and\\nsmall articles of value, such as pencil-cases, were left in\\nour possession, and the articles seized were carefully\\npacked in a copy of the Evening Mail, which found\\nitself in the same predicament. The search being now\\ncompleted, we were informed that we must proceed under\\nescort to Gromagoi, on the Stelvio road between Prad and\\nTrafoi, and nearly opposite the opening of the Suldenthal,\\nthere to have our fate decided in the morning by the\\nofficer in command of the Fort. We protested that our\\npassports were all right, that our statements were thus\\nfully and satisfactorily confirmed, and that they were\\nmaking a fuss about nothing; but they replied with a\\nmilitary sense of duty, It might be so, or it might not\\nthe decision did not rest with them they had positive\\norders to bring us down forthwith, and go we must. On\\nthis we, of course, gave way with a good grace, thinking\\nit impolitic to aggravate them, as they were doubtless only\\nacting up to their instructions, and knowing that any-\\nthing like resistance was not to be thought of. So at\\nten, or a little after, we bade good-bye to the group of\\ntrembling peasants who had gathered around, and, pre-\\nceded by an individual in plain clothes bearing a lantern,\\nwhom I strongly suspect to have been the cause of our", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0267.jp2"}, "268": {"fulltext": "68 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\narrest, we issued forth into the darkness. The inspection\\nof the passports had evidently not been without effect on\\nthe official mind, and we were, accordingly, allowed to\\nmarch in any order we pleased, but, by way of precaution,\\nwere not indulged with the possession of our axes. The\\npath, more particularly below St. Grertrud, was bad, and\\nin places either carried away by, or at least buried\\nbeneath avalanches, over which it was not easy to pick\\none s way in the dark without an occasional slip, and in\\nmore than one place, if we had chosen to make a rush\\naltogether, a majority might probably have given our\\ncaptors the slip, at least for the moment. Larking with\\narmed men who have a duty to carry out is, however,\\nneither wise nor safe, and we conducted ourselves lite-\\nrally in a guarded manner. The men were civil, and\\nstood a little gentle chaff after their pipes were once well\\nalight, at last even admitting that the affair might pos-\\nsibly turn out to be after all a dumme Greschichte and\\nwe enjoyed the variety, novelty, and spice of excitement\\nof our situation, though vexed at the disturbance of our\\nsleep, the overturning of the plans for the next day, and\\nthe possible risk of the loss of our possessions if the\\nCommandant at Gromagoi should prove to be a martinet\\nor red-tapist, and, choosing to ignore the existence of\\nsuch a pursuit as mountaineering, interpret notes and\\nsketches as being of evil tendency.\\nIt was between 1 and 2 A.M. when we pulled up on the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0268.jp2"}, "269": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 169\\nfamiliar Stelvio road a little below the Fort, and, on the\\nreturn of a messenger sent forward for instructions as to\\nour disposal, were marched into the inn at Gromagoi, and\\nshown into an upstairs room with two beds, in one of which\\nthe guides, and in the other B. and I, were directed to\\nbestow ourselves. A sentinel, with fixed bayonet, was\\nstationed inside the door, whilst a couple more, I believe,\\noccupied the landing, and as we settled ourselves into a\\nsound and refreshing sleep, I was really sorry to have been\\nthe means of giving so much trouble to our luckless cap-\\ntors, who were far worse off than ourselves.\\nWe rose soon after five, invigorated by three hours\\nrest, and were informed that we must be ready to proceed\\nat six to the frontier station of Der Schmelz, a little above\\nPrad, where our guard seemed to imagine that our case\\nwould finally be disposed of. Water was supplied for\\nwashing, and little acts of civility were performed, which\\nled us to believe that they were conscious of having made\\na mistake and performed their duty in the night with\\nneedless severity, though from first to last there had really\\nbeen little to complain of, the preliminary threats of per-\\nsonal violence having evidently resulted from the belief\\nthat, being spies, we must of course be armed, and if\\nsuffered to rise, might show fight and give trouble.\\nDuring our walk I had enquired the name of the\\nCommandant at the Fort, but our captors either could not\\nor would not enlighten me, and I was naturally anxious to", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0269.jp2"}, "270": {"fulltext": "170 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\nknow what sort of man we should have to deal with, as\\nthe fate of our note-books, sketches, c, as well as the\\nlength of our detention, might a good deal depend on his\\ndisposition and sympathies. On announcing that we were\\nready to start, we were requested first to step into an\\nadjoining room, where we found the Commandant Ober-\\nLieutenant Grustav Tomek standing by a table on which\\nwere placed our passports and other possessions. I com-\\nmenced the conversation with an expression of regret at\\nhaving been the cause of so much needless trouble, and a\\nhint that the Herr Commandant was doubtless by this time\\naware that an unfortunate mistake had been made. He\\nat once replied that he had, of course, no idea till he saw\\nour passports in the morning who or what we were, as the\\nhour of our arrival had prevented his being at once com-\\nmunicated with. 6 And now, he added, turning to me, 6 if\\nyou are Herr T., permit me to say that, whilst regretting the\\ncircumstances under which we meet, I have much pleasure\\nin making your personal acquaintance. For you are, in\\nfact, already well known to me through our mutual friend\\nMojsisovics, who spent four or five days with me here last\\nyear. If you see him, pray give him my very kind\\nregards, and say that I am very sorry to have caused\\nannoyance to any friends of his. s You know, however,\\nhe added, that these are critical times, especially on this\\nfrontier and as a report was brought to me yesterday by a\\npeasant, that four strangers had reached the head of the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0270.jp2"}, "271": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 171\\nSuldenthal from the Italian side, and were making en-\\nquiries as to the number of troops at Gromagoi, c, I\\nwas bound to send up a patrol to enquire into the matter.\\nI need hardly say that the story about our enquiries was a\\npure invention of the messenger, as B. and I had carefully\\nabstained from opening our lips on the subject, and the\\nguides, who we at first conjectured might have said some-\\nthing on the subject when they went down to St. Grertrud,\\ndid not, it appeared, know enough of the geography to be\\naware even of the existence of such a place as Gromagoi.\\nI subsequently heard that about a fortnight previously\\ntwo strangers, said to be suspicious in appearance, had been\\nseen somewhere in the Suldenthal by a woman, who at\\nfirst said nothing about it to anyone, and had been a good\\ndeal blamed in consequence. When we appeared, it was\\nresolved that the blunder should not this time be repeated\\nhence no time was lost in informing the authorities. Had\\nwe reached Grampenhofe three or four hours later, we\\nshould probably have effected a start for Bormio before\\nthe patrol could have arrived, and in our light marching\\norder and fine training, aided by superior local knowledge,\\nshould doubtless have easily given them the slip.\\nEeassured by the Commandant s friendly tone, I en-\\nquired whether we might resume possession of our pro-\\nperty and consider ourselves released from arrest, and at\\nliberty to proceed. He at once assented, remarking, as he\\nglanced at the outlines and maps, These are doubtless", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0271.jp2"}, "272": {"fulltext": "172 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\ntopographical sketches for mountaineering purposes. No\\nfurther explanation is necessary take them by all means.\\nAnd now you must present yourselves at Der Schmelz, just\\nto get your passports vised for departure from Austrian\\nterritory, after which, if you desire to return to the\\nSuldenthal, which I think can be arranged, and you have\\ntime to give me a call, I shall be happy to see you. This\\nroad being now closed, the police may not understand how\\nyou come to be descending the pass, so I will send some\\none with you to make all needful explanation, and as you\\nmust be hungry, and a much better breakfast is to be had\\nat Prad than here, I advise you to start at once, and will\\nwish you a very good morning and a pleasant journey\\nwhatever route you may take. Shaking hands very\\nheartily with our kind and gentlemanly friend and the\\npleasant young officer who accompanied him, as well as\\nwith the leader of the patrol, we set forth down the valley,\\ncongratulating ourselves on our good fortune in getting\\nout of the scrape with such flying colours, and heartily\\nblessing, I need hardly say, the name of Mojsisovics.\\nAt Der Schmelz there was unfortunately only a subor-\\ndinate official, who informed us that he had received posi-\\ntive instructions to allow no one to cross into Italy by\\nthat frontier, and did not see the force of our suggestion\\nthat the prohibition of course referred to the Stelvio Pass,\\nand not to a passage over the glaciers from the Suldenthal\\nto Val Zebru. He was civil but firm, and we did not", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0272.jp2"}, "273": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 173\\ncontest the point, especially as our companion intimated\\nthat he thought he could suggest a way of getting over\\nthe difficulty so our passports were duly made good for\\nan e Ausgang, and adjourning to the inn with our friend,\\nwe discussed over breakfast the idea at which he had\\nhinted. This was to proceed to Grlnrns, see the 6 Bezirk-\\nVorsteher, who was the chef of him of Der Schmelz, and\\nobtain his special authorisation to carry out our original\\nobject. In the event of his refusal, we could enter Switz-\\nerland by Val Mustair, and either reach the Engadine by\\nthe Ofen Pass, or make for Sta. Maria on the W. side of\\nthe Stelvio, via the Wormser Joch. Wishing him good-\\nbye, we set out for Grlurns, saw the superior official, and\\nlaid our case before him. He was very polite, said that\\nhis instructions would hardly have warranted him in\\ngranting our request, but that our being friends of the\\nCommandant of course altered the case materially and if\\nwe could obtain that gentleman s written permission, he\\nhad not the slightest objection to endorse it. We thanked\\nhim, but considering that this would involve another\\ndouble journey to and fro between Grlurns and Gromagoi,\\nas well as entail a somewhat unreasonable responsibility\\non Ober-Lieutenant Tomek; that the weather did not\\nlook likely to continue fine the next day and that we\\nmight even meet from the Italians at Bormio with a repe-\\ntition of our recent adventure, we decided to adopt the\\nsafer course, give no further trouble, and, leaving well\\nM", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0273.jp2"}, "274": {"fulltext": "174 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\nalone, slip over the frontier into Switzerland. I was con-\\nfirmed in this determination by the consideration that,\\nafter all, we might bag the Klein-Zebru next day from\\nSta. Maria by crossing the Madatsch Joch and skirting\\nthe slopes on the N. side of Val Zebru beneath the Tra-\\nfoier and Thurwieser Spitzen, and then ^descend the valley\\nto Bormio in the evening.\\nWe started accordingly in a carriage for Sta. Maria, in\\nthe Miinsterthal (Val Mustair), and then strolled up by\\nthe Wormser Joch the lower portion of which is very\\nbeautiful to the fourth or highest cantoniera on the\\nStelvio, around which the snow still lay deep. The Swiss\\nportion of the Miinsterthal was in a ferment, as an entire\\nbattalion of Federal troops was expected the next day,\\nand every available sleeping-place had been engaged for\\nofficers or men. At the cantoniera there were no soldiers,\\nand only a couple of custom-house officials, who declined\\neven to look at our passports when tendered for their in-\\nspection.\\nWe soon turned into bed, net having had a super-\\nabundance of sleep for two nights previously, and gave\\ninstructions to be called between two and three. The\\npeople of the house, however, failed to awake, and though\\nwe roused about three and the guides still earlier, we\\nwere unable for a long time to stir up anybody, the con-\\nsequence of which was that it was five o clock before we\\ngot under way.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0274.jp2"}, "275": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTUKE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 175\\nWe proceeded first to the top of the Stelvio to inspect\\nthe Italian frontier-post, which we found, to our surprise,\\nto consist of only about a dozen national guards and a\\ncouple of douaniers, who looked cold and miserable, as if\\nuncomfortably conscious that they were utterly incapable\\nof offering a moment s resistance to the Austrian force,\\nabout tenfold more numerous, which crowned the crest of\\nthe ridge just above them, within easy musket range.\\nLooking up, we could see the line of heads and glittering\\nbarrels peering over the rocky arete which runs in a\\nnortherly direction from the summit of the pass, and so\\ncompletely dominates the small building usually tenanted\\nby a couple of frontier guards, that it seemed as though\\nthe occupiers might be compelled to beat a retreat by five\\nminutes vigorous pelting with stones.\\nWe mentioned our intention of crossing into Val Zebru\\nby the glaciers, but the Italians assured us that Austrian\\nvedettes were stationed along the frontier for a considerable\\ndistance to the south of the Stelvio Pass, in the direction\\nof the Video-Spitz, and that, though anyone attempting to\\ncross by the regular road would probably be merely turned\\nback, they would not hesitate to fire if the frontier were\\npassed at a higher, or unusual and therefore suspicious\\npoint. Under these circumstances they recommended us\\nat any rate to keep well away to the right on the Italian\\nside; so, thanking them for their advice and information, and\\nwishing them well out of their unpleasant position, which\\nM 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0275.jp2"}, "276": {"fulltext": "176 A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL.\\nthey were allowed to hold undisturbed for only three days\\nlonger, we started off up the slopes to the S.W. for a\\ndepression which looked as though it might give access to\\nthe mass of snow and ice radiating from the Nagler-Spitz.\\nThe snow was in bad order, it was by this time nearly\\nsix o clock, the weather looked threatening, and when the\\nsupposed col was gained, it was found to lead nowhere in\\nparticular, except into a snow-filled hollow terminating\\nopposite the third cantoniera. We must either have de-\\nscended nearly 1,000 feet and then worked laboriously up\\nsteep slopes of soft snow on the left, or at once have pro-\\nceeded in the latter direction in full view of the Austrian\\npost, and with the probability of being compelled after all\\nto cross the frontier within range. A council of war was\\nheld, and we at length decided that, if we persisted and\\ngot into a scrape, we should have nobody but ourselves to\\nblame, and might expect small sympathy from anyone else;\\nthat the weather was not such as to offer any particular\\ntemptation to run a known and definite risk and that, all\\nthings considered, the most sensible course was to make\\nstraight tracks for the high road, and proceed down it to\\nBormio and Sondrio. Christian and Franz were, I believe,\\nheartily glad when this determination was arrived at, for\\nthough perfectly ready to do their best to carry out our\\nplans, whatever they might be, they had no desire again to\\nfall into the clutches of the Austrians under suspicious cir-\\ncumstances; and as the day remained cloudy, the feeling of", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0276.jp2"}, "277": {"fulltext": "A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN THE SULDENTHAL. 177\\ndisappointment gradually wore off from our own minds. At\\nBormio, and indeed throughout the Valtelline, no soldiers\\nwere to be seen, and we sympathised with the unfortunate\\nmanager of the Bagni, whose only expected guests were the\\ncompany of the Kaiser-Jager regiment we had seen in the\\nmorning, and whose downward swoop was in truth not long\\ndelayed.\\nI cannot conclude without bearing my willing and\\ngrateful testimony to the almost universal civility, honesty,\\nand forbearance of Austrian officials, at any rate on Grer-\\nman ground and if anything I may have said in the fore-\\ngoing pages should lead to a contrary inference, I can\\nonly regret that I should have so far failed to present the\\ncircumstances of the case in their true light. Boisterous\\nand denunciatory language, impatience of contradiction\\nor restraint, and an unlimited belief in the free-and-\\nindependent-Briton theory, combined with a fair amount\\nof ignorance of the language, more often than is supposed\\nunderlie the difficulties in which our countrymen get in-\\nvolved from time to time on the Continent and without\\npretending to be immaculate in these respects, I may\\nperhaps be allowed to urge the desirability of a little more\\npatience with employes, whose duty it is to carry out their\\ninstructions, whatever they may be.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0277.jp2"}, "278": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0278.jp2"}, "279": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nBut yet there is a time\\nBefore the Vesper chime\\nFrom nestling birds, and odorous leaves ascending,\\nWhen in the west, tie sun,\\nHis day s work almost done,\\n0 er_ purple clouds is for his farewell bending;\\nThen every icy crest,\\nAnd every marble breast,\\nWith sudden life doth seem to heave and glow;\\nTouch d by those ardent beams,\\nA golden glory streams\\nO er adamantine heights and caves of snow,\\nAnd, blushing rosy red\\nWith joy, each radiant head\\nIn ether springs to meet the parting kiss-\\nThen every snow-white brow\\nDoth humbly seem to bow,\\nAnd sink to rest in quiet thankfulness.\\nPoems by S. H. P.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0279.jp2"}, "280": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0280.jp2"}, "281": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\n/^VUR first visit to Ischl was in May, 1866. The uq-\\nusually late season had changed for the moment the\\nface of Europe, a prolonged shiver ran through the country,\\nthe sun, when it did shine, was wonderfully feeble and\\nhelpless, the trees gave up budding as a hopeless matter\\ntill better times came, and grass and flowers kept them-\\nselves as warm as they were able under the snow, which\\nstill had its own way in everything, making hills and\\nfir-branches beautiful as a dream, seen through a fretwork\\nof tiny frost sprays which decorated the windows of our\\nlittle mountain-inn every morning. The water in the\\nvillage fountains was frozen, and there were icicles on the\\nrocks beside the roads. We travelled through the country\\nunder a mass of cloaks and shawls, and within the shelter\\nof a big Stellwagen and our first care at each- day s halting-\\nplace was to see that the largest possible fires were lit in\\nthe cavernous stoves, and that all the windows were firmly\\nclosed, and everything eatable made as hot as possible.\\nWe had reached Salzburg on the 23rd of May, and", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0281.jp2"}, "282": {"fulltext": "182 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nlistened to mournful tales of the weather and the injury\\nto the crops and the people s fears for the future, and\\ngoing to sleep under the weight of these prognostications,\\nwoke to some pleasant sunshine and a general brightening\\nof the outside world.\\nIt would take many weeks to exhaust the interests of\\nthe whole district surrounding Salzburg. The landlord of\\nthe Nelbok, a first-rate house, tried to persuade us to make\\nit our head-quarters, the old city is full of interest with its\\ngrand castle crowning the hill which rises abruptly from\\nthe midst of walls and houses, a splendid bit of old mediae-\\nval power full of memories of proud ecclesiastics, princes\\nof the empire, who, when danger threatened, carried their\\narchiepiscopal croziers up to the higher battlements, and\\ndefied peasants and Kaiser alike. Murray says, Salzburg\\nby common consent is allowed to be the most beautiful\\nspot in Germany. With all due deference for such an\\nauthority it must be admitted that the common consent\\nassumes that in speaking of the city you include the\\ndistrict that surrounds it, and for ordinary tourists Ischl,\\nGrmunden, and Berchtesgaden are pleasanter points of\\ndeparture to those, at least, who prefer a foreground of\\nwoods and hills to mere streets and houses, even though\\ntheir foundations date back to the Eomans and are rich\\nin legendary lore. Mozart was born in a dwelling still\\nstanding near the University Church, and his statue by\\nSchwanthaler may be seen in the centre of the Michael s", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0282.jp2"}, "283": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 183\\nPlatz, within sound of the chimes from the Palace Tower\\nhard by, where the bells ring out softly, e Es klingelt so\\nherrlich, es klingelt so schon and the tones of his own\\nbeautiful Zaiiberflote float round the image of the great\\ndead master.\\nSalzburg is almost encircled by a chain of Alps through\\nwhich the Salza passes to join the Danube, and the plain\\nis rich with fields and meadows, luxuriant trees, villas and\\nhomesteads, a riant landscape pleasantly contrasting with\\nits more rugged surroundings.\\nWe started in two large carriages, which throughout\\nthe Salzkammergut and Bavaria are invariably good and\\ncheap, and drove away towards Ischl. But suddenly,\\nas we were trotting merrily along the high road, car-\\nriage number two came to grief; a young horse shied\\nviolently, tumbling its companion over into a deep ditch,\\nwith a general upsetting of people and vehicle that was\\nanything but pleasant. Matters, however, were soon set\\nright, the sufferers were picked up, condoled with,\\nbrushed, shaken, congratulated, and put back into their\\nplaces the ill-behaved horse secured a day s holiday, and\\nwas sent home to its stable, apparently unabashed by the\\ndisgrace a second appeared in a mysterious manner from\\na barn hard by, and the travellers resumed their journey.\\nLong files of soldiers, many of them composed of young\\nrecruits, passed us on their way to Salzburg, where each\\nday large detachments arrived, bivouacked on hay in the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0283.jp2"}, "284": {"fulltext": "184 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\ngreat riding-school, and then marched southward to their\\nvarious depots.\\nThe scene was very lovely in the morning light, and as\\nwe came into a more sheltered country, it was wonderful\\nto see what spring had done with the help of a few days\\nof brighter weather the snow had melted from the dark\\ngreen of the firs and pines, the beeches shone between them\\nwith their soft powdering of golden green buds, some\\nnewly-cut hay scented the air, and was drying on high\\npoles, but as yet the fields were undisturbed for the most\\npart, to our great content, and brilliant with flowers. Often\\nthey seemed covered with a crimson or lilac or purple haze\\nof colour, where some especial plant had made its home\\na delicate rainbow, sparkling through the dew, might have\\nfallen on the grass, and been held captive by the swift-\\nspun webs of the busy little gossamers. Filling up every\\ndistant view, a fair snow-peak shone in its winter drapery,\\nwhite and glistening, looking a great deal higher than it\\nreally was through the magic aid of its adornment, and\\npleasantly imposing on our senses, though one of the\\ntravellers, who was scientific and learned in theodolites,\\nalways endeavoured to anchor us to facts and the stern\\ntruth of things.\\nWe were deluded into stopping at St. Gilgen to dine\\na mistake which in later journeys we have been careful\\nto avoid. There is a charming lake, the Wolfgang See\\nand the Wirthshaus is an old-established halting-place,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0284.jp2"}, "285": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0285.jp2"}, "286": {"fulltext": "-%1\\n*5 n", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0286.jp2"}, "287": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 185\\nand roomy enough to supply the needs of many passing\\ntravellers; but the host was dead, and the Wirthin was\\ngiven to strong liquors, and the management generally\\nseemed to have devolved on a rather dilapidated Kellnerin,\\nwho had an unappetising way of wiping the forks in the\\ndinner-napkins between the courses, which were repetitions\\nof ham and eggs under various disguisements more or less\\nsuccessful, but inclining to the latter. There was a great\\ndog who came to be petted, and who apologised in his\\ndumb way for the deficiencies of the inn, and was quite the\\nbest thing belonging to it.\\nFrom St. Grilgen an easy ascent of three hours brings\\nyou to the summit of the Schafberg, nearly 6,000 feet\\nhigh, from whence a fine view may be obtained of the\\nwhole district of woods and lakes, a perfect vue en ballon\\nfor those who like to get their ideas of a country systemati-\\ncally aranged. There is a good hotel on the summit, where\\nall the delights of sunrise on a cold morning, the usual attack\\non the blankets of the establishment, and other remini-\\nscences of the Eighi Kulm may be revived, pleasantly or\\notherwise, according to the state of wind and weather.\\nWe reached Ischl by a rapid descent, the road winding\\namongst clustering trees and pretty houses nestling in the\\nshelter of the hills. The little town is simply a collection\\nof pleasure-houses, the oldest of which only date back for\\nforty years or so, dwellings and gardens, boulevard and\\nKurhaus, that have grown up when and how they liked", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0287.jp2"}, "288": {"fulltext": "186 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\naround the Emperor s beautiful little villa, and the saline\\nsprings that are the nominal excuse for the gay world who\\nlater in the year find their pleasure in this sheltered\\nvalley amongst the hills. The place must be warm in\\nAugust, as these same hills are thickly clothed with trees,\\nand the town is shut in by them on all sides, save where\\nthe busy river goes splashing and foaming over the stones\\ntowards the south, doing a great amount of business on its\\nway, as it has to float down the thousands of logs which\\nare lying ready stored along its banks. Everywhere one\\nsees saw-mills busily at work and shallows where the water\\nis kept back by a dam, and the wood is collected. The\\nlogs are left in a gigantic circle, packed tightly together,\\nand bound effectually by narrow pieces of wood which\\nform a cordon round it, till at a convenient season they are\\nlet loose from the Klause, and set off for an independent\\nrace that used to afford us endless amusement. As we\\ndrove beside the river, we delighted in watching the more\\nadventurous pieces of wood, becoming interested in them\\nindividually, backing our favourites, and noticing with\\nkeen anxiety when they approached a shallow and were in\\ndanger of being stranded, or of being caught in the whirl\\nof a rapid. Some weeks later, we came upon a fresh store\\nof wood floating down the Inn in a deep gorge below\\nNauders, and we looked sympathising^ at the logs that\\nwere dancing about in the rush and swirl of the river\\nkaiserliches konigliches Holz, with strong Austrian pro-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0288.jp2"}, "289": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 187\\nclivities, going helplessly into the very grasp of its\\nsouthern foes for just then the frontier was well guarded\\nby Italian sharpshooters, and the Grerman logs, if they\\never went too near the shore, might be made into watch-\\nfires and condemned to warm their enemies, though at the\\nworst they would have the satisfaction of being too damp\\nto do much more than smoke\\nBut meanwhile war was only a thunder-cloud in the\\ndistance, and above Ischl at least the sky was clear, and\\nthere was warmth and sunshine to gladden us. We took\\nup our quarters in the best of hotels, the Goldenes Kreuz,\\nwhere the kind people did their utmost to make us com-\\nfortable. We had rooms a discretion, as there was no one\\nelse there but one solitary Hungarian on the other side of\\nthe house. The old landlord and his wife are thrifty good-\\nhearted Grermans Madame a capital Hausfrau, reigning\\nover a pleasant little kingdom, a beautiful mountain farm,\\nfrom which large supplies of fresh milk came down in\\nbarrels, and turned into cream and cheese and butter\\nunder her skilful hands and those of her bright-faced\\nMadchen. The i son of the house is a clever well-edu-\\ncated man, who does his utmost to make the hotel com-\\nfortable, and with whom our father enjoyed many long\\ntalks over fishing tackle and sport, visiting with Herr\\nSarsteiner his trout-nurseries, and discussing the pro-\\nmise of the coming season. He rents all the rights of\\nfishing about Ischl, and is a keen sportsman and as he", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0289.jp2"}, "290": {"fulltext": "188 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nspeaks English well, anyone anxious for triumphs over\\nForellen or Reh or Gemse could not do better than place\\nthemselves in his hands. The hotel is unpretending-\\nlooking, but thoroughly comfortable, the horses and car-\\nriages are good, and the rooms cool and pleasant. The\\nwindows look down upon a tributary stream, or branch of\\nthe main river, which is divided up in every imaginable\\nway to suit the fancy of the Salinenwerke and saw-mills,\\nand across it to the Imperial villa and its gay gardens,\\nwhich climb up the slope and lose themselves in shady\\nwood- walks. The royal house is quite small, a toy-palace\\nwith verandahs and creeping flowers and pretty little de-\\nvices of spiral iron staircases hidden away under clematis\\nblossoms. It multiplies itself in numbers of tiny erections,\\neach smaller than the rest, like a Chinese box of houses,\\nin which all can fit one into the other. There is a kitchen\\nwith a covered arcade, and one is puzzled to know how\\nthe Imperial dishes can come all that long way, even under\\nbowers of roses, without becoming prosaically chilled.\\nThe hall of the villa is ornamented with the heads and\\nhorns of game in Tyrol fashion, and there is a pretty\\nfanciful Lusthaus halfway up the garden slope, with a\\ntiny library, and a drawing-room, and more light veran-\\ndahs and clematis and Virginian creeper, which must be\\nin all the glory of its colouring when the sweet young\\nEmpress comes there for some idle hours with her little\\nchildren in the pleasant country quietness. Higher still", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0290.jp2"}, "291": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 189\\nthere is another summer-house, a size smaller, and open\\non all sides to the breezes, which must be much needed\\nhere, and then there comes the wood, full of shady places\\nand seats arranged so as to command lovely distant peeps\\nthrough the trees, and coffee may be served here some-\\ntimes and fresh milk to the fair court ladies who, weary-\\ning of state dignity, and even of the Kiosk and the\\nPagoda, seek Nature at her source, which means sitting\\non the grass when it is rather damp, listening enraptured\\nto the songs of the birds and the hum of the insects,\\nbeing stung by the midges, and finding an earwig in your\\nripest peach We grew very fond of that garden, which is\\ngenerously thrown open to the public during the spring\\nmonths, and spent many long hours wandering about its\\nwalks.\\nOur first morning at Ischl dawned in a glow of sudden\\nheat. Summer seemed to have come in a moment, and we\\nspent our Sunday in the woods, choosing a sunny spot to\\nbask in and there, in the sweet country quietness, with\\nlittle bright-eyed lizards as our only companions, except a\\nstray peasant strolling home from mass, and the water far\\nbelow making a pleasant music over the stones, we read\\nthe lessons and psalms to that tinkling accompaniment,\\nand a sermon, which was fortunately a short one, as we\\nwere nearly frizzled before the end, having in our delight\\nat welcoming the sun again, ventured to camp out too\\ndirectly in his way, and we were glad to seek the deep", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0291.jp2"}, "292": {"fulltext": "190 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nshade of the pine wood, where the wild strawberry blossoms,\\nwhich were as large as our cultivated ones in England,\\nmade fair white stars amidst the moss and leaves.\\nWe hunted out a wood-stream which sprang out of the\\nground from a shelving bank of brown earth and leaves\\nmatted together with ivy and ferns and creeping plants,\\nand here we lay down and dipped our heads into the water,\\ndrinking and bathing at once, and, as we rested on the\\ngrass, dreamed that it was all untrue that Pan was dead,\\nand traced the little footmarks on the crumpled leaves,\\nwhere sweet sandalled feet had passed before us, and as\\nthe sunlight flickered through the greenness and ran in\\nand out amongst the stems of the trees, to our half-shut\\neyes came a vision of tawny Dryads, brown-eyed and\\nlaughing, circling in a mazy dance around their magic\\nspring. I do not think many people have ever found it\\nout: for two years we have sat beside it, and drank the\\nclear water and dreamed our pleasant dreams. But amongst\\nthose who visit Ischl some may long to find our Quelle,\\nsome may chance upon it unawares. There are few land-\\nmarks to remember, and another s words can give them\\nbetter than mine\\nOh, the sweet valley of deep grass,\\nWhere through the summer stream doth pass,\\nIn chain of shallow, and still pool,\\nFrom misty morn to evening cool\\nWhere the black ivy creeps and twines\\nO er the dark-armed, red-trunked pines,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0292.jp2"}, "293": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0293.jp2"}, "294": {"fulltext": "X\\n^5\\nnm irti. (mil dSSS^HSi\\nI\u00c2\u00bbek| T m p\u00c2\u00ab.-r, Y,j|\\nkP", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0294.jp2"}, "295": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 191\\nWhence chattering the pigeon flits,\\nOr, brooding o er her thin eggs, sits,\\nAnd every hollow of the hills\\nWith echoing song the mavis fills.\\nWe wandered home through the woods having a good\\npaper hunt. Our father had preceded us, declining to\\njoin in our Pan- heroics on the ground of a general damp-\\nness, which he had the hardihood to say detracted from\\nthe merits of our Quelle, leaving sundry pieces of the\\nAllgemeine Zeitung on the branches to guide our steps.\\nWe had a grand scramble, getting suddenly caught in\\nboggy places the sun had not had time to dry, losing our-\\nselves in by-paths that led nowhere, and coming upon bits\\nof the river as usual shut up for Klausen and full of logs,\\nand at last emerging on to the high road and the covered\\nbridge leading into Ischl.\\nThe baths and medicinal springs are of various kinds\\nbeginning with the ordinary hot and cold baths common\\nto all peoples and countries where water can be obtained\\nand be persuaded to boil, the favourite ones are those\\nsupplied by the liquor (Soolenbdder) drawn off from the\\nsalt-pans after a portion of salt has been extracted from\\nthe brine. This contains a strong solution of chloride of\\nsodium, and is let down with water from the river or from\\na sulphurous spring in the neighbourhood, according to\\nthe needs or fancies of doctors and patients. There are\\nMorris.\\nN", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0295.jp2"}, "296": {"fulltext": "192 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nalso vapour baths, little cupboards considerately con-\\nstructed in the roof of the evaporating house, which thus\\ncombines business and pleasure, visitors being enabled to\\nsit in the steam as it ascends from the boiling brine which\\nis being converted into cakes of salt below.\\nThere are people of wonderful constitutions to be found\\nwho can live through almost any amount of medical\\ncures but ours being less hardy, we found three minutes\\nbreathing of the salt vapour as much as body and mind\\ncould bear without evaporating altogether.\\nThere are two mud-baths, or Schlammbader, made from\\nthe refuse slime of the salt-mine reservoirs, but these were\\ndepths into which we declined to penetrate.\\nThe woods round Ischl have been laid out with much\\ncare, with good level roads, or winding paths, and there\\nare seats and summer resting-places at all the best points\\nof view. The favourite drive and promenade is through\\nthe wood at the side of the river, where are several Quellen\\nand tokens of Imperial favour in the form of ornamental\\nstonework, statues, inscriptions, c. Through this wood\\nyou pass to Laufen on your road to Hallstadt or Grmun-\\nden but many may prefer a journey altogether by water,\\nand the pleasant excitement of encountering a succession of\\nrapids larger or smaller in a little boat, or on one of the\\ngreat salt-barges that are constantly floated down the\\nstream. It is a wonderful sight to watch these great un-\\nwieldy vessels shooting the rapids at Gmunden, where the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0296.jp2"}, "297": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SUEROUNDINGS. 193\\nTraun, flowing through the lake, rushes down a precipi-\\ntous slope between narrowing banks on its way to the falls\\nbelow. The shouts of the men, the promise of prompt\\naction in case of danger, and their utter powerlessness\\nagainst the tremendous force which they are seeking to\\nutilize, the roar and dash of the water, and the sight of\\nthe heavily-laden barge, floating like a log at the sport of\\nthe waves, running apparently to instant destruction, and\\ncleverly steered by the men between the threatening\\nrocks, make a picture whose force and energy is not soon\\nto be forgotten.\\nAn easy drive of from one to two hours brought us to\\nthe shores of the Hallstadt See, from whence some sturdy\\nmaidens rowed us, in one of the great flat-bottomed high-\\nprowed boats, to the little town, which lies on the very edge\\nof the water, or rather clings to the rocks above. Eoad\\nthere is none, the houses grow on to the stones like lim-\\npets, and are brown and shining as though the wood had\\nbeen freshly soaked, with black timbers here and there,\\nand some are built out upon piles, amongst which the\\ngreen water moves with a pleasant lapping sound, catching\\nfresh ripples of colour as the sunlight plays upon the\\nwooden sides, or bright-faced children lean out to throw a\\nstone below, and send a reflex of dimples and rosy cheeks\\nor a little scarlet bodice into the circle of quivering light\\nto which the water steadies back after the splash.\\nN.2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0297.jp2"}, "298": {"fulltext": "194 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nAs we were moved along by the slow steady sweeps of\\nthe oars, the scene was exquisitely beautiful, the lake still\\nand clear, with trees and banks and towering hills mirrored\\nso faithfully that one began to grow giddy in the uncer-\\ntainty as to who or which was upside down\\nInverted in the tide\\nStand the gray rocks, and trembling shadows throw\\nAnd the fair trees look over, side by side,\\nAnd see themselves below.\\nWe landed at a little garden pier belonging to the inn,\\nwhere was a very small steamer already high and dry in\\nthe middle of the flowers, under the hands of some very\\nidle workmen. A jodel greeted us from a stone terrace\\nhigh over head, some of the party having preceded us, and\\nwe were soon installed in a little balcony-salon over the\\nwater, where we dined and fished vainly for trout or Sal-\\nbling, and then wandered through the meadows, seeing\\nF. and his guides on their way towards the Dachstein, a\\nsnow-giant who was to be comfortably conquered before\\nthey rejoined us at Krimml, in preparation for which they\\nhad arranged to sleep at some chalets higher up, and\\nmake an early start next day by moonlight.\\nHallstadt, like many of the Italian towns on the Cor-\\nniche, seems part of the ground against which it has grown\\nthe hill might have been honeycombed by many diligent\\nworkers, so embedded are the houses in the rock. You\\nmount from one to another by stone stairs or wooden", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0298.jp2"}, "299": {"fulltext": "Xin ^beeXairrt.\\nw\\nMaXMadt", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0299.jp2"}, "300": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0300.jp2"}, "301": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0301.jp2"}, "302": {"fulltext": "I ll i p\\nw", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0302.jp2"}, "303": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 195\\nbalconies flung out suddenly at abrupt angles, or the path\\ntunnels under buildings and descends into queer cellar-\\nlike places, from which you emerge under the green\\nshade of a vine carefully trained over arches, or encounter\\na wooden watercourse crossing your path from a perpen-\\ndicular height above. One might make short cuts up\\nthe winding path through upper windows, and come\\nsuddenly upon little gardens and a goat or two, and a\\nstable in the middle of the roofs A Protestant and\\na Eoman Catholic church share nearly equally between\\nthem the inhabitants of the little town. We passed the\\nLutheran building at the moment when a peasant s wed-\\nding was going on within. It was a small party, rather\\na shy and awkward one the marriage had just been com-\\npleted, and the clerk, a very busy official, arranged his\\ncompany with great expenditure of breath and gesticula-\\ntion in two rows, men in front, while we all listened to\\nsome very sweet singing, and then the procession moved\\nout of the church and wound up the steep hill-side, the\\nbride only to be distinguished by her green wreath from\\nher companions, who wore white flowers in their hair.\\nThe men s hats were elaborately decorated with great\\nbunches of flowers and huge satin rosettes they looked\\nvery stolid, and as though, if they held their hats long\\nenough in their hands, they might probably eat the\\ndecorations from shyness or utter absence of mind a\\nstate which is, I fear, somewhat chronic.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0303.jp2"}, "304": {"fulltext": "196 ISCHL AND ITS SUItRODNDIiNGS.\\nSpite of the intense heat, we managed to walk to the\\nsalt-works, and watched with great interest the evaporating\\nprocess going on. The sun shone down on us with such\\npower that S. declared she found it refreshingly cool, in\\ncomparison, to be shut into a sort of cupboard on the rim\\nof the tank full of boiling brine and steam, the fumes of\\nwhich would have suffocated her if she had tested their\\nstrength much longer. The salt is entirely a government\\nmonopoly, and they showed us great store-houses filled\\nwith the large blocks waiting for the barges, and much\\ndecorated with spread eagles, and konigliche kaiserliche\\nblack -lettered inscriptions.\\nThe heat prevented our visiting the Eudolph Thurm, a\\nbuilding perched on a projecting rock 1,000 feet above\\nthe lake, built by the Emperor Albert in 1299, to defend\\nthe royal possessions, when he and the Prince Archbishop\\nwere quarrelling over the salt. In these more prosaic\\ndays, it is devoted to a collection of fossils, antediluvian\\nand otherwise, Celtic antiquities, and the manager of the\\nmines. You go up a staircase, or at least may do so if\\nyou have sufficient energy to ascend steps for half an\\nhour, and having reached the tower, a trifling addition of\\n500 feet brings you to the entrance of a salt-mine.\\nAt Aussee the brine is conducted in wooden pipes along\\nthe sides of the hills and over bridges from the mine,\\nwhich is about four miles off. It looks like an early and\\nvery clumsy system of telegraphic wires, which may have", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0304.jp2"}, "305": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 197\\nbeen isolated by wooden casings, from the effects of a\\ndamp climate. Some of the party drove to Aussee from\\nIschl, having altogether rather an uncomfortable expe-\\nrience.\\nThe road as it approaches the lake becomes very pre-\\ncipitous and execrably bad, and the drivers of the small\\ncountry carriages seem to take an exquisite pleasure in\\nthe sufferings of their employers. Mrs. C. gave a piteous\\ndescription of her sufferings, and D., who was a lighter\\nweight, was flung so recklessly from one side to the other,\\nthat fears were entertained that she might arrive at their\\ndestination in several pieces. This was an inn, die Sonne,\\nas to which our hopes had been raised by the glowing\\ndescriptions of our Ischl landlord, and grievous was the\\ndisappointment on the arrival of the party. The Kellnerin\\nwas a repetition of the brilliant domestic of Hindelang, and\\nthe travellers were shown into one big gaunt room which\\nwas supposed to be sufficient for their accommodation. A\\nremonstrance procured for them a slightly preferable\\narrangement, in the form of two chambers, very cold and\\ndraughty, divided by a movable paper screen fitted into a\\ngroove in the floor. With this they were obliged to be\\nsatisfied, and to make the best of the Abendessen, which\\nwas anything but a success but strengthening themselves\\nwith the philosophy of contentment, which was always\\nadmirably sustained by the calm courage of Mrs. C, and\\nnever permanently shaken by any joltings of the way, or", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0305.jp2"}, "306": {"fulltext": "198 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\ncontretemps of food, weather, and lodgings, they finished\\neverything eatable that was to be obtained, and retired to\\nrest, placid if rather stiff and aching. There is some\\ngood to be got out of everything, and the sufferings of the\\nmoment, however severe, when related to the rest of the\\nparty at Hallstadt, where our forces were again united,\\nadded zest to our enjoyment at the little Hotel Seeauer,\\nthough the latest arrivals, who had slept peacefully at\\nIschl, and dined well, were cruel enough to laugh over the\\nhistory.\\nThere is great truth in good old Jeremy Taylor s apo-\\nthegm, f He that threw a stone at a dog, and hit his cruel\\nstep-mother, said, that although he intended it otherwise,\\nyet the stone was not quite lost and if we fail in the first\\ndesign, if we bring it home to another equally to content\\nus, or more to profit us, then we have put our conditions\\npast the power of chance.\\nAussee is beautifully situated at the junction of three\\nstreams, which flow from the lake of Aussee and Grundl,\\nand by their union form the river Traun. The fishing, as\\non all these lakes and streams, is very good.\\nIn the spring of this year, when we again visited Ischl,\\nwe reversed our route in degree. Leaving the Danube\\nat Linz, we journeyed by rail to Lambach, visiting the\\nTraunfalls and Gmunden, and driving from thence to\\nIschl. The scenes through which we passed were described\\nat the time in one of our home letters, part of which I", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0306.jp2"}, "307": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 199\\nmay be allowed to quote here, as a history written on the\\nspot, however slight, is generally, like an artist s sketch,\\nvery little improved by any touches added afterwards.\\nGmunden, May 28th. How strangely our impressions\\nof a place are affected by the circumstances under which\\nwe see it, and how quietly our praise or blame is meted\\nout according to our own sensations, the beauty or charm\\nof a particular place being sadly dependent on the fact\\nthat we have found a good hotel, or have dined, or that\\nthe weather is too hot and everything is dirty. Last year\\nwe thought Grmunden rather tiresome, and never wished to\\nsee it again, because we approached it from the water, from\\nwhich it is not seen in its most picturesque aspect, landed\\nfrom a hot grimy steamboat on a dirty pier, and spent our\\ntime between a large gloomy cavernous hotel and a high\\nmound, up which we climbed for the sake of the view\\nfrom the summit, and whose sole interest consisted in a\\ndreary chapel and the orthodox number of stations\\nleading up to it. This evening the little town looked\\nperfectly lovely and picturesque with its houses smiling out\\nfrom the trees mountains and lake lay before us trans-\\nfigured in all the glories of sunset light, a deep red glow\\nlighting up the snow peaks as though they were touched\\nwith fiery fingers. We are in a pleasant new hotel,\\nthe Bellevue, facing the lake, and our room has a glass-\\ncovered balcony, from which I have been trying vainly to\\npaint the colours before they faded away. We found", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0307.jp2"}, "308": {"fulltext": "200 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\ncapital quarters at Linz, breakfasted at the demoralised\\nhour of nine, and then all started to walk up to the\\nJagermeyer. It had rained very early, and the country\\nlooked pleasantly fresh. Our path lay by the side of the\\nDanube, which rolled in a grand stream of deep green\\nwater between steep rocks richly clothed to their summits\\nand lower banks covered with houses, the town spreading\\nitself out along both sides of the river. We ascended by\\na steep wood walk between the stems of the firs and hazel\\nand beech trees, the air was scented with wild flowers and\\nnew-mown hay, a pleasant breeze tempered the hot sun,\\nand the shady woods looked wonderfully inviting with\\nnumberless tempting little paths losing themselves in their\\ndepths. The distant view over the broad plain of Austria\\nwith a blue range of Styrian Alps beyond, was infinitely\\nlovely. We wandered back by the market-place and\\nthrough many streets, admiring the old German houses and\\nthe shops gay with Paris goods. An hour s rest in the hotel,\\nand some ices, and diligent sketching of a few of our wild\\nflowers, and we set out for the station. An hour and a\\nhalf s travel brought us to Lambach, where we had tele-\\ngraphed for a carriage to meet us.\\nWe have had a perfectly beautiful day, full of delights,\\na pleasant drive of less than two hours through a Tyrol\\nwood, a level road for the most part and very badly kept,\\nover which our carriage stumbled and jolted at a tolerable\\npace, till the near horse cast a shoe, after which we limped", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0308.jp2"}, "309": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0309.jp2"}, "310": {"fulltext": ",ty\\n^^ms!\\nr r\\nSr BivHioloVirfL ai\\n1\\nills", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0310.jp2"}, "311": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 201\\non till three old men and a hammer came to our rescue,\\nand knocked the iron somehow on to the unfortunate\\nbeast. A very steep road led down to the falls of the\\nTraun and a small country inn, where we dined on trout\\nand potatoes, with a dessert of cheese. The resources of the\\nplace are not great, and I fancy the usual demand for sup-\\nplies is limited to coffee or an afternoon cup of milk and\\nstrawberries, when the Austrian ladies drive over from\\nGrmunden or excursionize from the more distant Ischl with\\nprovident picnic baskets in the rumble of the carriage\\nthis fact by the way for those who may come after us.\\nNo words of mine can describe that mad whirl of waters,\\nthe side stream rushing over its artificial floor like a\\nbroad flat shoot, at the rate apparently of a hundred miles\\nan hour, the great river at its side from a height of nearly\\nfifty feet plunging in a cascade of white foam on to the\\nrocks, splitting them asunder in its fury, working its way\\nthrough them till you see a stone bridge spanning the\\nwaves in its persistent flow, falling in one broad sheet of\\ntranslucent green like melted glass, or flinging a veil of\\nsparkling spray over the dark trees on the shore. The\\nriver wanders on in a succession of side falls all wonder-\\nfully beautiful. Where the artificial aqueduct ceases below,\\nit is curious to see how the water, which has been pent up\\nfor more than 1,000 feet, unable to stop itself quickly\\nenough to mingle at once with the main stream where the\\nwaters unite, dashes under it for a hundred yards or", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0311.jp2"}, "312": {"fulltext": "202 ISCHL AND ITS SUKROUNDINGS.\\nmore, while the Traun flings itself in a tempest of spray\\nand foam against the sudden rush. An unpleasant moment\\nthat meeting of the waters must be to human weakness\\nin a boat. There were no barges of any description on\\nthe spot, nor would there be for many hours, so reluctantly\\nwe gave up our hopes of experiencing the delights of an\\nentirely new sensation.\\nAt 5.30 we climbed the hill again to the high level\\nalong which our road lay, and then drove for nearly two\\nhours through woods and fields, and a country too beauti-\\nful almost for reality. Far below us the green river wound\\nbetween the trees, dashing itself in a white fury here and\\nthere against the rocks that came in its way, and foaming\\nover the rapids beyond were wooded hills, and still farther\\naway, cutting clear and sharp against the sky, ran range\\nupon range of mountains streaked and powdered with\\nsilver snow, and violet in the evening light. On the\\nthick mass of trees close to our road the sun, now low in\\nthe West, shone with side rays, transforming them as by\\nthe touch of an enchanter flowers of the most brilliant\\ncolours grew beside them, the air was full of their sweet-\\nness, and the vespers of the little birds who were too tame\\nor too innocent to take the trouble to fly away from us\\na partridge ran out from a copse, and a squirrel darted\\naway into the shelter of the tree. The shade deepened\\nunder the firs and grew into purple blackness with soft red\\nlights where the sun shone on the carpet of dried twigs", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0312.jp2"}, "313": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SUEROUNDINGS. 203\\nand brown mosses. The sunbeams, like the very spirits of\\nmischief, wrote their names in great sprawling characters\\non the stems of the pines, with delicate tracery, figures\\nand emblems and wonderful devices, legible no doubt to\\nsympathetic spirits, but as far above our human and finite\\nunderstandings as the patois of our honest-hearted and su-\\nperlatively stupid Kutscher. Far above our heads, wherever\\nthe twisted branches of the pines were shaken naked and\\nbare against the blue sky, they brought a glory of crimson\\nand orange light, and clothed them in it like a veil. Slowly\\nthe violet shadows deepened in the farther hills, slowly the\\nsnow peaks glimmered and lightened and flushed with a\\ntender pink as the green radiance lifted itself from the\\nyellow beeches and the sombre woods, and the great wall\\nof rock stood bathed in mist as if poised between earth and\\nheaven, in a divine beauty that one remembers as in a\\ndream.\\nWednesday ,29th. We were roused this morning at seven\\nby the sound of a solemn chant of many voices singing\\nout of time and to no particular tune, and, hurrying to\\nour windows, we watched a long procession of priests and\\nbanners, men, women, and boys following, and all joining\\nwith a great fervency of heart and voice in this propitiatory\\nact, which is, they hope, to insure a good and plentiful\\nharvest. The scene before us was indescribably lovely,\\nthe lake calm as a mirror, with mountains brown and\\ngrey and soft blue, and distant snow edges reflected on", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0313.jp2"}, "314": {"fulltext": "204 1SCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nits surface, and the Kloster and church, rising from a\\nnarrow strip of flat land just above the water, sending long\\nwhite quivering pictures almost across the narrow See.\\nInstead of the clearly defined peaks and jutting crags and\\nglory of last evening, or the cold brightness of the night,\\nthere was a glow of warmth and colour, a blue light like\\nheat made visible, a hum of insects in the air, and a\\nsweet scent of morning and fresh spring beauty.\\nThis would be a charming place to spend a summer in.\\nIt is very popular with the Viennese, and no wonder, as it\\nmakes capital head-quarters for excursionists there is\\nplenty of sport, good fishing and shooting in the neigh-\\nbourhood, well-made roads, and easy carriages for invalids,\\nand both here and at Ischl many a long day might be\\nspent in pleasant rides through the woods, which are well\\nadapted for equestrians, who can penetrate where the ways\\nare too narrow for anything larger than a Bergivagen, and\\noften too boggy for explorers on foot. This hotel is new\\nand very good our bedroom is like a spacious salon, with\\nfour large windows draped with white facing the lake is a\\ncovered balcony like a small orangery or chamber on the\\nwall, into which one of them opens the furniture is all\\ngood and handsome, a new grand piano of shining satin-\\nwood fills up one corner the landlord, who speaks English,\\nis most attentive, and the cuisine excellent families may\\nboard here at a charge of seven shillings a day per\\nhead, supposing they occupy the best apartments, but of", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0314.jp2"}, "315": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 205\\ncourse the rate of payment varies with the rooms se-\\nlected.\\nWe found the drive to Ischl an infinitely more charm-\\ning means to an end than our journey by water of\\nthe former year, and in the intense sunshine Nature\\nlooked at her best and brightest, all the dust having\\nbeen washed off by the rain and snow of the past week.\\nWe passed through a perpetual garden, beautiful villas\\nhalf hidden among the trees, Italian, Swiss, German\\nhouses, every style and fantastic form which architecture\\nassumes when it indulges itself in the pleasures of holiday\\nlife, and, like its employers, renounces for the nonce the\\nrules and necessities of sterner existence. Above villas\\nand cottages rose wooded hills promising good cover for\\ngame; close at our side lay the blue lake, and beyond\\nit the great warm grey hills. The fields were studded\\nwith flowers, large purple Campanulas growing in such\\nmasses that at a little distance they looked like pools of\\nwater reflecting the sky, and it was only on nearing them\\nthat we discovered the reality.\\nWe came suddenly upon a peasant gathering, men and\\nwomen resting under the shade of some trees, while the\\npriests offered their prayers at a little wayside shrine the\\npoor earnest devout faces were bowed in a reverent still-\\nness, over which the shadows of the leaves\\n1 Dropt and lifted, dropt and lifted,\\nIn the sunlight greenly sifted,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0315.jp2"}, "316": {"fulltext": "206 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nwent and came, throwing flickering lights upon their\\nheads the resonant chant swelled solemnly through the\\nutter silence which we shrank from breaking by noise of\\nhoofs and wheels. That rough altar built up in the midst\\nof the hay -fields with the earnest group of worshippers,\\nseemed to us a wonderfully beautiful sight which clearer-\\neyed Protestants might be none the worse for studying.\\nAt Ebensee we parted from the lake and our old friend\\nthe Traunstein, and drove for the next two hours by the\\nriver, watching the logs from Ischl as they met us floating\\ndown the stream. We stopped at a road-side inn to water\\nthe horses and have some bread and wine, and enjoyed\\na half-hour s rest in a cool little wooden arbour overgrown\\nwith creepers, where big and little dogs came to be petted\\nand fed one very fat three-weeks-old Newfoundland\\npuppy would thrust investigating paws and nose into\\neverything, so we painted the latter with vermillion as a\\nwarning to the others, and watched it waddle off thus\\ndecorated to express its disgust at the world in general\\nby various sneezings and contortions of its very stumpy\\nlittle tail. The great river rushed past us, carrying away\\nbroken reflections of homesteads aud farmhouses and\\novershadowing fruit trees, of wooded hills and one snowy\\nmountain top, the only rapidly moving force in that still\\nlife where everything seemed so peaceful and so very dull,\\nfrom the old Wirth, who came to sit by us on the bench,\\nand his stout helpmeet who stood with arms akimbo,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0316.jp2"}, "317": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0317.jp2"}, "318": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0318.jp2"}, "319": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 207\\nas we drank her white wine, beaming a delighted sense\\nof what our enjoyment must be, Das ist gut, nicht wahr\\nAh to the sleepy mother of the busy little puppy, who\\nlay in the sunshine blinking sleepily at her son, as if to\\nsay, 6 It is all very well, but you will soon learn to take\\nlife as easily as the rest of us.\\nThe hotels at Ischl are all good the new Hotel Bauer,\\nbuilt on the summit of a little hill, commands a fine view\\nof the town, and is a large and somewhat imposing edifice.\\nHerr Bauer, the present manager, was earnest in his\\nendeavours to persuade our father to remain at Ischl over\\nthe Sunday. We had strolled up to the house and were\\nadmiring his new salon,\\nAh, cried the good man, c if you would only stay till\\nSunday, my Eeverend is coming from England, and it is\\nso much to be regretted that you should be going. Can\\nI not tempt you to remain and listen to my Reverend\\nThere was a strange procession which we encountered\\none day returning from the church, a funeral of a woman\\nthe coffin, carried on men s shoulders, was covered with a\\nshabby pall, and decorated with tin crowns wreathed with\\npaper flowers, and with paste-board figures of saints\\nlike children s toys tottering on the top. Behind there\\nfollowed a promiscuous assemblage, all the men, women,\\nand boys who had been at the afternoon service, hundreds\\nof people walking two and two, chanting with more or\\nless of fervour. Never had we seen such a collection\\no", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0319.jp2"}, "320": {"fulltext": "208 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nof faces and figures, deformed goitred old women, young-\\nones unutterably ugly, idiotic-looking men the women\\nin their stiff black dresses and kerchiefs bound across the\\nforehead, and sanctimonious faces, reminded one of queer\\nold wood-cuts of puritan saints, giving thanks meekly that\\nchastisement had fallen upon an erring brother. This\\nwalk in the heat after the shaking coffin was a work of\\nsupererogation, a fact which spread a mild and virtuous\\nsatisfaction over the bland faces.\\nJudging from the people one sees, Ischl, beautiful as it\\nis, must be anything but healthy as a dwelling place\\nthe inhabitants who throng the streets are an utterly\\ndifferent race from the strong sturdy peasants of Bavaria\\nor Tyrol. At the Fete Dieu we saw a very different\\nassemblage; this great church festival filled the town\\nwith people from the whole country side, dwellers on\\nthe hills, or in the plains. For days beforehand, young\\nmen and maidens had been busy planting forests of\\nbeech boughs, or forming arcades of green branches\\nbefore the principal houses, framing sacred pictures in a\\nbower of leaves, and hanging gay draperies from the\\nwindows wreaths of flowers and tasteful bouquets deco-\\nrated the walls and covered the temporary altars erected\\nin the streets. As we walked down towards the Kurhaus\\nwe met hundreds of peasants in gala attire, streaming in\\nfrom the neighbouring villages, bright-faced sturdy girls in\\ngroups of twos and threes, tramping along the road with", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0320.jp2"}, "321": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0321.jp2"}, "322": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0322.jp2"}, "323": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0323.jp2"}, "324": {"fulltext": "Ik\\n1n official a\\\\ iW.\\nTele Dieu", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0324.jp2"}, "325": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 209\\nbare feet thrust into roughly-made clogs, while the clean\\nblack shoes and white stockings were carefully carried\\nin the hand to heighten the effect of the toilette at\\nthe last moment. The little children were beaming over\\nwith happiness, and even the small babies were in white\\nmuslin and green and flowery wreaths, with their hair\\nbeautifully dressed at Grmunden, which we had visited\\nthe day before, the whole of the younger portion of the\\nfemale population were in anticipatory curl-papers The\\nboys were resplendent in green stockings and plumed\\nhats, the men lounged about in picturesque groups,\\ngrey coated and with stockings and hats of Tyrol green,\\nthe latter decorated with Ldmmergeier feathers or plumes\\nfrom the Auerhann. There were two bands belonging to the\\nkonigl. haiserl. Salzsoleniverk, manufactory or distillery,\\nor royal monopoly of something salinen or otherwise, the\\nmen all well turned out, and others appeared from the\\nsame works carrying rifles, a sort of guard of honour to the\\nHeilige Jungfrau or any saint of distinction. Very curious\\nit was to see these men dressed in a strange livery, the\\nblack blouse of the miner, and a plume of green feathers\\nin their dark soldier-like caps. Some of the men from\\nthe Bavarian salt works, whom we saw a few days later\\nat Berchtesgaden, carried hatchets that glistened in the\\nsun as they stood on guard round a little temporary altar,\\nwhile the officiating priest elevated the Host and performed\\nmass for the people. It was a pleasant sight, spite of the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0325.jp2"}, "326": {"fulltext": "210 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nsuperstition and the little follies that grouped themselves\\nround the religious rites, from the devout feelings of the\\nworshippers, and the keen delight of each unit in that\\ngreat mass in the general festiveness of the day; there\\nwere old grandames so proud and happy over the little\\nones and their pretty dresses, the children so innocently\\nglad, the men with quiet reverent faces, holding lighted\\ncandles wreathed with flowers which did nothing but\\ngutter or go out, and chanting vigorously to an accompa-\\nniment of drums and trumpets, and a great clanging\\nbell that of course always came in out of time, and in\\nthe midst of the banners and candles, singing priests,\\nand devout worshippers, with the sunshine covering\\nit with a halo like a glory, was the great picture of the\\nfestival, the Christ showing his wounds to the Father,\\nthe Christus Salvador of the Frohnleichnam s Tag.\\nThere were endless decorations and ornamentations,\\nthe churches had turned out all their treasures of relics\\nand upholstery to enrich the procession, a sermon or\\nEvangelium, which unfortunately we could not stay to\\nhear, was to be preached in the open air, the people\\ndisposing themselves to listen, and camping out on\\nsteps and balconies. One little group was especially\\nto be remembered on a flight of steps, a green bower\\nof fresh beech boughs, sat a sweet-faced young mother,\\nher sober colouring forming a perfect foil for two little\\nbits of living sunshine, beaming golden hair and starry", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0326.jp2"}, "327": {"fulltext": "Im Schafren", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0327.jp2"}, "328": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0328.jp2"}, "329": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 211\\neyes, rosiest cheeks and lips and dimples, two cherub\\nchildren, flower- crowned and dressed in white one of the\\ndear fat beauties was lifted towards us in the arms of\\na proud old grandmother, and -gave us a soft little round\\nhand through the beech leaves with a burst of happy\\nlaughter.\\nBut our carriages were ready and it was time to depart,\\nand reluctantly turning away from this pleasant spot\\nand all that day s gladness, we drove up the steep hill\\nand left the happy valley far behind. A very pleasant\\ndrive was ours to Salzburg we had by no means said\\ngood-bye to the festival, every little village was gay\\nwith flags and greenery, every wayside chapel bright with\\nwreaths, and the roads swarmed with peasants, men and\\ngirls, like great nosegays as we saw them through the\\ntrees, so brilliant were the colours of their dresses one\\nof the peculiarities of the Tyrol costumes is the absence\\nof patterns or fusings of tints, they shine out bright\\nand distinct like the field flowers.\\nOur party was a very merry one we amused our-\\nselves by jumping out of the carriages, unknown to our\\nworthy drivers who plodded up the hills beside their\\nhorses unwitting of lighter or heavier loads, hunting for\\ntreasures in the hedges, collecting ferns, stopping to\\ndrink at wayside springs, and exchanging greetings with\\nthe peasants, and when once installed again in our places,\\nfilling the seats with small maidens whose sturdy little", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0329.jp2"}, "330": {"fulltext": "\u00e2\u0080\u00a2212 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nlegs seemed very weary even with the delights of that\\nday s gladness, and setting them down at the cottage\\ndoors as we passed, where busy Hausmutters were pre-\\nparing the simple supper.\\nAt St. Grilgen the lake instead of sleeping in the\\nsunshine was all astir, the wind rippling it into real\\nwaves almost white-tipped in their energy. We bought\\nstores of white Lcimmergeier feathers at a quaint little\\nshop, and then after an hour or more of progress halted\\nat a way-side inn to rest and water the horses the men\\njoined a little group under the trees, where a good cur6\\nand some peasants were drinking coffee; our father sat\\nin the carriage with our last Saturday, and we lay on\\na bank in very happy idlesse watching the water trickle\\nfrom a spout and three ducks come and drink it. There\\nwas a stream near, but the ducks returned with much\\nexpenditure of strength and breath from time to time,\\ndrank with infinite satisfaction, waddling back comforted\\nto the ditch below. Were they Ischl birds, w r e wondered,\\nwho had learnt the practice from much watching in their\\nyouth of autumn visitors to the baths and Quellen, studying\\nthe amount of exercise prescribed between each swallow\\nTo us it seemed a very common pump, old and somewhat\\nleaky even, but the ducks thought otherwise. There was\\na big grey fellow with one black feather in its tail, and\\nits head held a little on one side, who was evidently\\na deep thinker the pump was doubtless good for some", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0330.jp2"}, "331": {"fulltext": "\\\\m }{it Pump I\\nM lie nahvas see me. i ash of us", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0331.jp2"}, "332": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0332.jp2"}, "333": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 213\\nsymptoms, weak nerves or dyspepsia, and the bird knew\\nit Bladud was a real live prince, according to histo-\\nrical legends, though like a poor prodigal he was turned\\nout amongst the swine, but it was a learned pig that\\ntaught him the virtues of the Bath waters, and here\\nbefore our eyes was doubtless a fresh proof of the marvel-\\nlous instinct of beasts and birds what an interesting study\\nfor the psychologist In an affable voice we addressed\\nthe duck on the instant in all the appropriate euphemisms\\nof the German language\\n6 Grnadiger duck, hast thou, like the much-belauded\\ndoctors of Austrian and Bavarian Spas, discovered a\\nspecific for human ills Art thou, too, a general\\nbenefactor, if only to thy companion ducks? Art thou\\n6 Quack said the duck, so suddenly and solemnly,\\nthat startled by the unexpected response we gazed\\nhelplessly at the pump and then at each other, and all\\nlaughed till the ducks being offended retired into the\\nditch.\\nAmong the learned physicians whose fame draws the\\ntravelling public, when more or less invalided, to drink\\nand bathe and study peripatetic philosophy, combining\\nAristotle and a water diet in due proportion, there are\\nmany more especially sought after by the English. Our\\nvisits to these medicinal springs have almost always been\\nout of the season we have found the establishments alto-", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0333.jp2"}, "334": {"fulltext": "2U ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\ngether closed, or have been ushered through large halls of\\na general and unpleasant dampness, declined the draught of\\nwater kindly offered to us by a mouldy-looking attendant,\\nand satisfied our curiosity by a study of the frescoes and\\nother decorations of the walls, and the inevitable bronze\\nor marble bust amongst the shrubs outside, with its lau-\\ndatory inscription to the special providence in the form of\\na medico who first made the spot famous.\\nMany of our friends have been more fortunate they\\nhave drunk at the well, bathed in the hot and cold waters,\\nand been visited with solicitous care by the attendant\\nminister. One case I remember in which there was a\\nslight uncertainty as to treatment, owing to the want of a\\nperfect understanding of the form of words employed.\\nThe patient was described by a brother, whose English\\nwas of that pure Saxon obtaining at Eton and Eugby, as\\nnot much amiss.\\n6 A little down in the mouth, you know.\\nAh said the doctor, that symptom is strange to\\nme, and out came the note-book. A leetle down in the\\nmouth, did you say Ah Um and the troubled\\nphysician paused, meditating over this new and difficult\\ndiagnosis.\\nTravellers, as a rule, are not wonderful as linguists, and\\nwe have all in our time made great blunders ourselves,\\nand listened to ludicrous mistakes from others.\\nF., when sitting one day in a vestauration, heard an", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0334.jp2"}, "335": {"fulltext": "ISCHL AND ITS SUKKOUNDINGS. 215\\nEnglish traveller ordering his dinner in spasmodic but\\napparently fluent German and leaning forward, when the\\nKellner had disappeared, said in a deprecating voice, as\\ndreading to interfere between any man and the menu he\\nhad selected\\nI am afraid, sir, you hardly know what you have\\nordered. Can I be of any help as an interpreter\\nOh thank you but what s the matter I want some\\nfish and potatoes. Isn t it all right cried the poor victim.\\n6 Possibly, answered F., only I thought I heard you\\nasking for peches and pantoufles, and I am afraid you\\nmay find sins and slippers a little indigestible.\\nWe English have curiously little talent as linguists,\\nthough we may have a superficial knowledge of two or\\nthree languages, and may succeed in making ourselves\\nunderstood more or less as we travel, whereas a Russian\\nor -an Austrian speaks five or six with the most perfect\\nmastery of their difficulties, and delicate appreciation of\\ntheir idiomatic correctness and beauty. We complimented\\na young Viennese girl on her beautiful English she\\nanswered quite simply\\n6 1 am glad you think I speak it well we all like Eng-\\nlish, and it is taught everywhere in our nurseries. The\\nAustrians are fond of the study of languages, and learn\\neasily; my little brother, who is only four years old,\\nspeaks three languages, one of which is Hongarisch, as\\nhis nurse is an Hungarian.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0335.jp2"}, "336": {"fulltext": "\u00c2\u00a316 ISCHL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.\\nWe were astonished to find such familiar knowledge of\\nsome of our latest authors amongst the people we met\\nduring our journey. One of our acquaintances, an Hun-\\ngarian lawyer, eagerly discussed with us the works of\\nJ. S. Mill, Buckle, c, and it is strange to see how\\nmuch better known such books are in Germany than\\nsimilar ones would be with us modern Grerman thought\\nfailing to penetrate in England beyond a purely intellec-\\ntual or critical circle.\\nBut we must return to our halting-place on the road to\\nSalzburg, where by this time the horses were rested one\\nof the drivers came up to us with a huge bumper of some\\ndark liquid in his hand, of which he pressed us to partake.\\nWe just touched the glass with our lips, not to hurt his\\nfeelings, and pronounced it to be decidedly siis. It was\\nvery abominable, quite sweet and dark, meant to be\\ncoffee, I believe, but was a sort of black eau sucre, made of\\ncoarse burnt sugar. The cure and the old Wirthin said\\n6 Guten Abend, the peasants nodded over their beer in\\nfriendly recognition, and a young girl we had brought\\nwith us from St. Grilgen came to wish us good-bye, and\\nkiss our hands; the grey duck looked at us dispara-\\ngingly, as anti-hydropathists, and we drove away gaily from\\nthe little Gasthaus to our good quarters in the Nelbok\\nat Salzburg as the shadows were beginning to lengthen,\\nand a pleasant and cool air came to temper the heat of\\nthat bright summer s day.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0336.jp2"}, "337": {"fulltext": "EXCURSIONS AMONG THE OETLER AND\\nLOMBARD ALPS.\\nBlue, and baseless, and beautiful,\\nDid the boundless mountains bear\\nTheir folded shadows into the golden air.\\nRttskin.\\nDer Ortler, aus Granit geworben,\\nZur Granzenhut emporgehoben,\\nEagt glorreich alien Nachbam vor.\\nUnd tragt aus frommen Hirtentbale\\nDes Dankes voile Opferschale\\nZu deinem Thron, o Gott! empor.\\nBeda Weber.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0337.jp2"}, "338": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0338.jp2"}, "339": {"fulltext": "EXCURSIONS AMONG THE ORTELER AND\\nLOMBARD ALPS.\\nIT is by no means one of the least of the benefits con-\\nferred on the geographer and the mountaineer by the\\npublication of Mr. Ball s admirable Guide to the Central\\nAlps, that in directing attention to the topography and\\nhigh attractions of the Orteler and Lombard Alps, it has\\nthrown much new light on a district which has hitherto\\nreceived a very inadequate share of notice. The construc-\\ntion of the great Stelvio road, indeed, familiarised the\\npublic with a portion of the country in question, whilst\\nthe valuable work of Schaubach Die Deutschen Alpen,\\nB. iv. Handbuch fur mittlere und siidliche Tyrol Jena,\\n1850) afforded much useful information; but curiosity\\nseems to have been limited to the immediate scenery of\\nthe pass, and though the summit of the Orteler Spitze\\nitself has during the last sixty years been several times\\nattained, few have cared to push their explorations farther,\\nor to investigate the numerous other peaks which, whilst\\nrivalling it in height, perhaps surpass in beauty the\\nmonarch of the group.\\nStimulated alike by the charms of novelty and by the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0339.jp2"}, "340": {"fulltext": "220 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nglimpses which a passage of the Stelvio the year before had\\ngiven me of some of the grandest features of the district,\\nI resolved at the earliest opportunity to devote a few days\\nat least to the more thorough exploration of its recesses\\nand finding that my inclination was shared by my friends\\nE. N. and H. E. B. whom I had arranged to meet at\\nPontresina about the end of July, a combined scheme of\\noperations was agreed upon, the results of which I now\\npropose to lay before the reader.\\nIn pursuance of our compact, the various members of\\nour band collected on the 25th of July 1864 at Samaden,\\nwhence on the following morning we sallied forth a merry\\ncompany of ten (five of whom were ladies), to establish\\nourselves for a week at that pleasantest of headquarters, the\\nKrone at Pontresina. Here, amongst other Alpine friends,\\nwe found Messrs. Tyndall and Hinchliff, and learnt from\\nthe former that Mr. Ball was actually at Santa Catarina in\\nthe Val Furva, whither he was himself bound, and that\\nthey had designs of a similar character to ours. The\\nchance of obtaining such an accession to our forces at\\nonce decided us to cut short our stay in the Engadine\\nand accordingly, after devoting a couple of days to some\\nnew excursions in the Bernina, which previous expeditions\\nhad suggested, we reassembled at the comfortable esta-\\nblishment of Le Prese, and thence journeyed on the 29th\\nto Tirano and Bormio. Arrived at the latter place, and\\nhearing discouraging accounts of the chances of accom-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0340.jp2"}, "341": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 221\\nmodation at Santa Catarina, it was thought most prudent\\nfor some one to proceed thither at once, and ascertain the\\nactual state of affairs. Accordingly, after despatching a\\nhasty dinner, H. and I started at 9.25, in a char, for\\nthe Val Furva, whose torrent, the Frodolfo, joins the\\nAdda at Bormio. The night was dark, and as we gen-\\nerally proceeded at a foot-pace, it was past midnight\\nwhen we drove up before a large plain-looking stone build-\\ning, from whose goodly array of windows, however, many\\na bright gleam of light shone forth upon the silent valley,\\nand sparkled in the swift waters of the Frodolfo. It was\\na comfort to find a waiter still astir, and to learn that,\\nthough the entire building was packed to the roof with a\\ndense mass of humanity, something in the shape of beds\\nmight and should be improvised for us in the billiard-\\nroom. The result was very superior to anything we had a\\nright to calculate upon under the circumstances, whilst we\\nhad afterwards the satisfaction of being undeservedly pitied\\nby the other members of our party, amongst whom a\\nlegend long gained credit that the billiard-table itself had\\nconstituted our couch.\\nThe next morning was everything that could be desired\\nfor a preliminary investigation, and having sent a message\\nto our friends at Bormio and discovered Mr. Ball, a\\nconsultation was held as to the first point of attack.\\nHe so strongly recommended us to begin with the ascent\\nof the Monte Confinale, and the position of that mountain", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0341.jp2"}, "342": {"fulltext": "222 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nwas so obviously calculated to give us a general insight\\ninto the topography of the Orteler chain, that we resolved\\nto assault it at once without awaiting the arrival of the\\nmain body. Some provisions were therefore hastily col-\\nlected, and at nine o clock we set out amidst suppressed\\nexcitement on the part of the inmates of the establish-\\nment.\\nI must here premise that the Confmale is the loftiest\\npoint of a spur from the main ridge which, quitting the\\nlatter at the S. foot of the Konigsspitze, and runnino-\\nfor a short distance nearly due S., bends round more and\\nmore till it gradually assumes a westerly direction, thus\\ndividing the Val Forno and the middle portion of the\\nVal Furva from the Val del Zebru, of which latter it\\nconstitutes the E. and S. boundary. Though the actual\\nsummit is invisible from Santa Catarina itself it dominates\\nthe whole neighbourhood, and being equalled in height\\nonly by the peaks of the main chain, which sweep round\\nit in a semicircle from the Cristallo to the Corno dei tre\\nSignori, it will be seen at once that no better point could\\nbe selected for a general survey.\\nWe crossed the Frodolfo by a bridge close to the\\nStabilimento delle Acque, passed through the little vil-\\nlage, and struck up the mountain -side by a path on the\\nleft bank of a torrent which comes leaping down in a\\nseries of cascades, and is derived from the snows of the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0342.jp2"}, "343": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 223\\nConfinale. Traversing a little pinewood we soon came\\nout upon beautiful grassy slopes, commanding views of\\nconstantly increasing beauty and extent of the head of the\\nVal Furva and its S. arm leading up to the Gravia Pass,\\nguarded by the noble peaks of the Tresero and Corno\\ndei tre Signori. Comforted by sundry draughts of milk,\\nwhich the burning heat rendered most acceptable, we\\nheld on our way towards a line of cliffs which form the\\nE. boundary of a small elevated valley running right\\nup into the heart of the mountain. Here our course\\nbecame more level, but our progress was slow, as we had\\nto traverse a succession of slopes of debris descending to\\nthe level of the stream, whose right or W. bank would\\nhave afforded better walking. Gradually the cliffs circled\\nround in front of us, but were broken by gullies, through\\none of which we scrambled up, amidst a perfect chaos of\\nfragments of huge size and fantastic arrangement, to the\\nlevel of the snowfields above. The actual summit was\\nnow seen for the first time, separated from us by the neve\\nof a small glacier which descended to the left of our\\nstation in a southwesterly direction. Half an hour s steady\\nbut by no means rapid ascent across the snowfield, and\\nthen parallel with the SE. ridge of the mountain, brought\\nus to the foot of the final rocks. These were free from\\ndifficulty, and in five minutes more we stood upon the\\nsummit at 1.45, just four hours and three quarters after", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0343.jp2"}, "344": {"fulltext": "224 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nquitting Santa Catarina. Our progress had been leisurely,\\nand our various halts having amounted altogether to one\\nhour and a quarter, it will be seen that the ascent may-\\nbe easily accomplished in three-and-a-half hours walking.\\nThe height of the peak is 11,076 English feet, according\\nto Von Welden, and that of Santa Catarina being about\\n5,000, the difference of elevation is upwards of 1,000 feet\\ngreater than that between Pontresina and Piz Languard,\\nwith which it may be most conveniently compared. It\\nseems difficult to suppose that so excellent a station\\nshould not have been made use of by the officers charged\\nwith the survey of the great military map of the Lom-\\nbardo-Venetian Provinces but we could discover no trace\\nof any erection, and flattered ourselves with the idea of\\nbeing the first to discover the great attractions, easy\\naccess, and admirable view which characterise the\\nmountain.\\nWhilst my companion set vigorously to work at the\\nconstruction of a cairn, in which to deposit a record of\\nour visit, I occupied myself for the next hour or two in\\ntransferring to my notebook an outline of the glorious\\nsuccession of peaks, snowfields, and glaciers which\\nstretched in an unbroken line around us through a\\nhorizon of something like 200\u00c2\u00b0, and included nearly all\\nthe highest summits of the Orteler and Lombard Alps.\\nAfter a stay of rather more than three hours we started\\nat 4.45, quitted the snow at 5.5, and at 7.15, after a", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0344.jp2"}, "345": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 225\\nquarter of an hour s halt, reached Santa Catarina thus\\neffecting the descent in two-and-a-quarter hours walking.\\nHere we heard that our companions had come up from\\nBormio in the morning but finding the available accom-\\nmodation less satisfactory than could be desired, some of\\nthem had returned to secure beds at the Bagni di Bormio,\\nwhilst the remainder had kindly waited for us. Our\\nsecond detachment started in a carriage at 8.30, and, after\\na pleasant drive in the cool of the evening down the\\nromantic Val Furva, rejoined the first at 10.45. Unfor-\\ntunately, in the dark, both my barometers somehow con-\\ntrived to fall from the carriage and get broken, so that\\nduring the remainder of our journey we were limited to\\nan aneroid by Browning, belonging to E., which proved,\\nhowever, to be a first-rate instrument.\\nThe following day (July 31st) being Sunday, we spent\\nthe morning quietly between our capital quarters and the\\nshade of a somewhat meagre pine-wood, and a little before\\nfive took our departure for the third cantoniera on the\\nStelvio road, which we proposed to make our starting-\\npoint for further explorations on the morrow. It was\\narranged that all the ladies, under the charge of Michel\\nPayot and the two remaining gentlemen of our party,\\nshould proceed to Santa Catarina on Monday, and esta-\\nblish themselves there as comfortably as circumstances,\\nmodified by the kind exertions of Mr. Ball, would per-\\nmit whilst E. and H. and myself, accompanied by our", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0345.jp2"}, "346": {"fulltext": "226 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nrespective guides Franz Biener of Zermatt, and the gal-\\nlant old Christian Michel of Grindelwald devoted one or,\\nperhaps, two days to clear up the mystery of the Cristallo,\\nand investigate the Vitelli Glacier and Val del Zebru.\\nTwo-and-a-half hours easy walking brought us to the\\nthird refuge or cantoniera, situated between the steep\\nascent known as the Spondalunga and the higher station\\nof Santa Maria. The landlord is a decent fellow, disposed\\nto do his best, but the accommodation is of the most\\nlimited character, and appeared only to have reference to\\nthe wants of passing travellers. One bed was all that\\ncould be provided, but a mattrass on the floor answered\\nequally well, and after a good supper on our own pro-\\nvisions, we laid ourselves down to rest.\\nIt was just 3.15 on the morning of the 1st August when\\nwe issued forth upon the noble Stelvio road, and pro-\\nceeded down it at a rapid pace till just before reaching\\nthe cantonnier s house standing at the commencement of\\nthe zigzags by which the descent of the Spondalunga is\\neffected. Here we turned off sharp to the left, and tra-\\nversing slopes of debris by a path which in the faint light\\nwas barely distinguishable, found ourselves at 4.15 at the\\nright or north bank of the Vitelli GHacier, not far from its\\nextremity. The main body of the ice appeared to descend\\nright in front from between a somewhat uniform ridge on\\nour left and a fine snowy mass on the right, which we\\nrightly conjectured to be the western termination of the", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0346.jp2"}, "347": {"fulltext": "ORTELEK AND LOMBAED ALPS. 227\\nspur described by Mr. Ball Guide to the Central Alps,\\np. 415 b), as including two principal summits, of which the\\neastern peak in form somewhat resembles the Lyskamm.\\nFurther to the right a succession of inferior elevations\\nsweep round till they terminate in the rocks which over-\\nhang the second cantoniera, and give rise in their intervals\\nto two or three glaciers of secondary importance, the most\\neasterly of which constitutes the western affluent of the\\nVitelli. With these we had nothing to do, our course\\nclearly lying up the main arm beneath, and to the north\\nof, the conspicuous snowy mass already referred to, which\\nformed the centre of the picture. E. had indulged in the\\nunusual luxury of a stereoscopic camera, which after doing\\ngood service in the Bernina was now again made useful,\\nand after a short halt we stepped upon the ice at 4.40.\\nThe glacier, which is beautifully pure, presented no diffi-\\nculty, and keeping straight up the centre we reached the\\nfoot of the ice-fall immediately to the north of the western\\nextremity of the Vitelli ridge at 5.30. Here the rope was\\nput in requisition, and at 5.40 we commenced the ascent.\\nKeeping close under the south boundary of the glacier,\\nour progress was facilitated by the slopes of snow which\\nobliterated the crevasses on this side of the ice-fall, and\\nthough the huge masses of overhanging seracs, towering\\nhigh into the air on our right, were suggestive of ava-\\nlanches, the debris of which we frequently traversed, this\\ncourse would probably be at all times the best.\\nP 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0347.jp2"}, "348": {"fulltext": "228 EXCURSIONS AMONG TIIE\\nAt 6.30 the level of the upper plateau was gained, and\\na glorious expanse of snow was descried sloping gently\\nupwards towards a broad col, and bounded by two great\\nramparts of considerable uniformity of outline, but whose\\nexquisite purity as they glittered in the bright clear\\nmorning light rendered them strikingly beautiful objects.\\nScarce a rock was to be seen, and it was at first very diffi-\\ncult to determine the relative altitude of the principal\\nprominences, or the scale of the scenery as a whole. As\\nwe progressed, however, it became more and more evident\\nthat of the two ridges, both of which attained their greatest\\nelevation towards their eastern extremities, that on our\\nleft, which we afterwards ascertained to be the Video\\nSpitze (11,361 feet), or second highest point of the\\nCristallo, was the loftier, whilst the conviction was mo-\\nmentarily strengthened that neither could rival for a\\nmoment either the Orteler Spitze, or many other peaks of\\nthe group. The ridges in question are indeed but little\\nmore than great snowy hummocks, of exquisite beauty\\nit is true, but scarcely attaining to the dignity of moun-\\ntains.\\nTwenty minutes steady walking at a rapid pace up the\\nlevel floor of this noble corridor brought us at 6.50 to the\\ndepression at its head already mentioned, and all doubt as\\nto our further course was at once set at rest by the dis-\\ncovery that we were looking down from a height of some\\n10,700 feet into the centre and lower portion of the Val", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0348.jp2"}, "349": {"fulltext": "OKTELER AND LOMBAKD ALPS. 229\\ndel Zebru, from which, however, we were cut off by\\napparently impracticable precipices of enormous depth.\\nFeeling anxious to investigate the other side of the Cris-\\ntallo ridge, and not knowing how large might be the de-\\nmands on our time and strength before night, we did not\\nattempt to test the chance of effecting a descent by force\\nmajeure but retracing our steps for a few hundred yards\\nand then gradually bearing away to the north, we made\\nfor the ridge at a point between the Video (11,361 feet)\\nand Nagler Spitze (10,687 feet). Turning round the\\nnorth-west shoulder of the former peak, we found our-\\nselves at 7.15 standing on the west side of the upper neve\\nof the Madatsch Grlacier, and separated by it from the\\nseries of summits terminating on the north in the\\nMadatsch Spitze proper, over which towered the grand\\nmass of the Orteler Spitze itself. Farther to the right a\\ndepression was visible, and beyond it a dome-like summit.\\nNext to this came a sharpish cone through whose snowy\\nmantle a few rocks cropped out here and there. Again\\nthe eye was puzzled to say whether this summit or its\\nneighbour, the nearer Video Spitze, was the loftier\\nbut on the whole the betting was in its favour, and the\\nevent justified our estimate, as it proved to be the highest\\nof the series of eminences to which the name of Crist alio\\nhas been collectively applied.\\nA glance sufficed to show that our course would lie over", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0349.jp2"}, "350": {"fulltext": "230 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nthe depression between the cone and the most westerly of\\nthe upper peaks of the Madatsch ridge, as from it the\\nascent of the former (which on the side of the Vitelli\\nGlacier was impracticable) appeared easy of accomplish-\\nment, and it seemed besides to offer the greatest chance\\nof effecting our intended subsequent descent into the Val\\ndel Zebru. Again the camera was called into requisition,\\nand operations were on the point of commencing, when\\nthe box containing the plates was suddenly seen to glide\\nfrom its moorings, and set off on a voyage of discovery\\ntowards the neve beneath. Franz started in pursuit, for-\\ngetful that he constituted a link in a chain, and came to\\ngrief and the length of his tether at the same instant.\\nWhilst he was detaching himself the rash adventurer slid\\nmerrily onwards, and laughter was mingled with vexation\\nas we saw Franz wildly plunging downwards and, though\\ngaining ground at every step, arriving at the upper edge\\nof a crevasse just in time to see the object of his pursuit\\ntopple merrily over into the dark depths which he dared\\nnot approach more closely. We all rushed to the rescue,\\nand after a short hunt Christian appeared holding the\\ntruant aloft in triumph. Another attempt to photograph\\nwas more successful, and after sketching and indulging in\\na second breakfast we quitted our station at 8.45, and at\\nnine reached the level surface of the Madatsch neve, over\\nsome steep slopes intersected by numerous crevasses.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0350.jp2"}, "351": {"fulltext": "ing lo", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0351.jp2"}, "352": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0352.jp2"}, "353": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 231\\nFifteen minutes steady walking brought us to the foot\\nof the steep wall leading up to the col. Here step-\\ncutting became necessary, the slope being very rapid our\\nprogress was slow, and it was 9.40 before we stood on the\\nsummit. The view on the other side was at once mag-\\nnificent and satisfactory magnificent because it included\\nthe massive Orteler and glorious Konigsspitze with the\\nKlein Zebru and other intervening peaks, and satisfactory\\nbecause the hope of being able to descend to the level of\\nthe Val del Zebru was on the whole strengthened. For the\\nthird time the camera was set up, and two slides, forming\\na panorama of the chain from the Orteler Spitze to the\\nKonigsspitze, were rapidly secured by E., whilst I worked\\naway more slowly at my outline.\\nDepositing our various traps on the col, we struck off\\nat 10.30 to our right, climbed a steepish ridge broken in\\nits lower part by rocks, and then keeping a little to the\\nleft found ourselves at eleven on the conical summit\\nalready alluded to. The Video Spitze appeared to the eye\\nto be but little less elevated than that on which we stood\\nbut the superiority of our position would have been in-\\ndisputable even without the authority of the Kataster\\nSurvey, which assigns to the two points the respective\\nheights of 11,370 and 11,361 feet. On the south we\\nlooked down into the Val del Zebru, from which we were\\ncut off by enormous precipices, but could see nothing of\\nthe Vitelli ridge, even the highest point of it being", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0353.jp2"}, "354": {"fulltext": "232 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nentirely concealed by the intervening Video Spitze, which\\nmust therefore be the more elevated of the two. We spent\\na most enjoyable hour on the summit, though our view was\\ncut short in the direction of the Konigsspitze by clouds\\nsweeping up from the south.\\nStarting again at twelve, we regained the col, which we\\npropose to call the Madatsch Joch, at 12.30. Its height,\\nas determined by an observation of E. s aneroid compared\\nwith Aosta and Turin, comes out 10,838 feet; but as the\\nreading of the same instrument on the summit of the\\npeak gives a height for the latter of 11,576 feet, or 206 in\\nexcess of the Kataster determination, these figures must\\nbe looked upon as probably too high by at least 100 feet,\\nif not more.\\nCollecting our baggage we quitted the col at 12.35,\\nand proceeded down the gently-inclined slopes of a glacier\\nwhich, as it descends from the Cristallo and the ridge con-\\nnecting its different peaks with the Schnee Grlocke and\\nTrafoier Spitze, I have ventured to name the Cristallo\\nGlacier. Its termination towards the Val del Zebru is for\\nthe most part pretty uniform, but at the corner farthest\\nfrom the Cristallo it thrusts forward a long narrow tongue\\nof ice, forked at the end, which is well seen from the\\nConfmale. Whether the valley may be reached at this point\\nwe did not attempt to ascertain, for our ultimate object\\nbeing to cross into the Val Forno by the ridge separating\\nit from that of Zebru, it was obviously desirable to strike", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0354.jp2"}, "355": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 233\\nthe latter as near its head as possible. We therefore\\nkept well to the left, beneath the terminal cliffs of the\\nSchnee Grlocke and Trafoier Spitze, and at 1.15 halted on\\nthe summit of a ridge, part snow and part rock, dividing\\nthe Cristallo Grlacier from another further to the east\\ndescending from the Thurwieser Spitze. This last is in its\\nturn separated by a similar barrier from a larger mass of\\nthe Zebru Grlacier which has its source in the eastern slope\\nof the Thurwieser Spitze, the southern side of the Klein\\nZebru, and the south-western shoulder of the Konigsspitze.\\nAn attack was now made on the provisions, and at 2.10\\nwe again got under way.\\nThe reconnaissance from the Confinale had satisfied us\\nthat it would be better to quit the ice by the lower edge of\\nthis small intermediate glacier, on whose W. boundary we\\nwere now standing, so we worked down diagonally to our\\nright, and at 2.30 got on to the slopes of debris below\\nwithout the slightest difficulty. Here began the most\\ntroublesome and fatiguing work of the day. We had to\\ntraverse a seemingly interminable waste of unstable stones,\\ninclined at a high angle and treacherous in the extreme.\\nOur progress was thus slow, but at three o clock we reached\\nthe singular and highly-attenuated tongue of the Zebru\\nGlacier (like that of some gigantic ant-eater), traversed it\\nwithout difficulty in five minutes, and at 3.15 gained some\\nturf slopes. Eound these we now wound at a tolerably", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0355.jp2"}, "356": {"fulltext": "234 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nuniform level, from time to time coming upon extensive\\npatches of the detested clapier, till 4. 1 5, when, wearied of\\nthis scrambling mode of progression, which had now lasted\\nnearly two hours, we reached to our delight the mass of\\nice occupying the head of the valley and formed by the\\nunion of a glacier descending on the NE. from the Konigs-\\nspitze with two others from the Confinale spur on the E.\\nand S. The first was crossed in a few minutes, and then\\nscrambling up the slopes on the left bank of the second\\nor most easterly, and taking to the ice at 4.45, we gained\\nthe depression at its head at 5.30. We here stood upon\\nthe ridge separating the Val del Zebru from the head of\\nthe Val Forno or Val di Cedeh, and connecting the prin-\\ncipal peaks of the Confinale spur with the main chain at\\nthe S. foot of the Konigsspitze. For some distance to\\nthe N. the barrier maintains a pretty uniform elevation,\\nand its passage might doubtless be effected at almost any\\npoint over a distance of half a mile or more. We kept\\nas much to the right as the SW. boundary of the glacier\\npermitted, in order to reach Santa Catarina with the least\\npossible delay, for the day was already well advanced and\\nwe had no time to lose. On the Austrian maps a pass is\\nindicated near the point selected by us for crossing, but as\\nno name is given we proposed to adopt that of Zebru\\nPass. The height calculated from an aneroid reading by\\ncomparison with Aosta and Turin comes out 9,908 feet,\\nbut judging by the error in the case of the Monte Cris-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0356.jp2"}, "357": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 235\\ntallo observation, it would probably be safer to adopt\\n9,700 as the more probable figure.\\nThe beauty of the view over the upper portion of the\\nvalleys on either hand as well as of the glorious peaks\\nwhich form their respective boundaries, induced us to\\nlinger till 5.40, when we proceeded down the short and\\neasy glacier on the E. slope and quitted it at 6.15. At\\n6.30, finding an excellent stream and remarkably sharp\\nappetites, we disposed of the remainder of our provisions\\nbut time was precious, and at 6.45 we once more set forth.\\nWe now kept more to the S. and pushed down the Val\\nForno at a rapid pace over lovely slopes of pasture and\\nalong the grass-grown summit of a beautifully-developed\\nancient lateral moraine, till we dropped at length into a\\nwell-defined path, This led us at 7.30 to a little village\\nperched high on the mountain-side, whence a very steep\\ntrack zigzagging downwards on the left over broken ground\\nand amidst rocks and trees brought us at 7.45 to the main\\npath, which is still, however, carried along the W. side of\\nthe valley at a considerable height above the stream.\\nBy this time it was getting dark, and of the remainder of\\nour tramp we saw but little more than enough to convince\\nus that the lower part of the Val Forno possessed charms\\nof the highest order. Stumping along over an unfamiliar\\nroad in that peculiar half-light which is almost more con-\\nfusing than perfect obscurity is a process that soon be-\\ncomes wearisome and monotonous, especially if one has", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0357.jp2"}, "358": {"fulltext": "236 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nbeen already seventeen hours on foot and it was there-\\nfore with feelings of lively satisfaction that, after traversing\\nsome meadows and turning a corner, we descried the lights\\nof the Stabilimento delle Acque at Santa Catarina, and\\nfinally reached its hospitable door at 8.40, after a most\\ninteresting, but somewhat fatiguing day.\\nHaving as yet seen but little of the immediate neigh-\\nbourhood of Santa Catarina, it was resolved to devote the\\nfollowing morning to the congenial occupation of lounging\\nabout, picnicking in the woods, c. As the sunny hours\\nsped rapidly by, the charms of scenery gaining new zest\\nfrom those of the social circle which our goodly company\\nof ten might fairly claim to constitute, one felt that it is\\ngood sometimes to be idle and go with the stream but\\nthe lingering flavour of recent adventures, the conscious-\\nness that much yet remained to be accomplished in the\\nvery limited time still at our disposal, and above all the\\nsight of the glorious mountains themselves encircling our\\nlittle Capua, recalled us to a sense of duty, and reminded\\nus that we must not allow ourselves to be more than\\ntemporarily demoralised in a climbing sense. In the even-\\ning we saw the ladies under the good escort of the same\\nfaithful squires drive off down the valley for the Baths of\\nBormio, with the intention of passing the Stelvio on the\\nmorrow, whilst we remained behind to explore more\\nthoroughly the head of the Val Forno, and, if possible,\\ncross over to meet them at Trafoi via the Suldenthal.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0358.jp2"}, "359": {"fulltext": "r~ --jM^-r^\\nH 5\u00c2\u00a3\\nA\\nBuild\\nTrig O- CflUTrL", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0359.jp2"}, "360": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0360.jp2"}, "361": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0361.jp2"}, "362": {"fulltext": "Iiil", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0362.jp2"}, "363": {"fulltext": "OETELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 237\\nAnticipating a long day s work, we retired to rest soon\\nafter eight o clock, and rising again at 11.30, breakfasted\\nsharp at midnight an arrangement which, whilst con-\\nvenient for us, prevented the establishment from being\\nunnecessarily disturbed, as the guests did not, and the\\nwaiters could not, get to bed till a late hour.\\nAt 12.45 A.m. on the 3rd we quitted the house, led by\\na man with a lantern, who was to accompany us up the\\nlower portion of the Val Forno, and return as soon as\\nthere was sufficient light to distinguish the track. We\\nretraced our previous course, and passing the point where\\nthe small path already referred to led steeply up to the\\npastures on our left, we found ourselves opposite the foot\\nof the Forno Glacier at 2.30. This is a noble stream of\\nice which deserves careful exploration, and might be in-\\nvestigated in conjunction with attempts to effect passes\\ninto the Yal della Mare on both sides of the Viozzi Spitze,\\nor with ascents of the latter peak and the beautiful pyramid\\nof the Pizzo della Mare. Whether the summit of the\\nTresero could be gained from this side is, I think, uncertain,\\nbut there is little doubt of its accessibility from the direc-\\ntion of the Gravia Pass, or even by the glacier which\\ndescends between its W. and SW. aretes. Which of its\\ntwo peaks is the higher I am unable to state positively\\nmy own impression and that of Mr. Ball is, that the one\\nvisible from Santa Catarina is the lower, but it would\\ncertainly best repay the labour of an ascent, as everything", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0363.jp2"}, "364": {"fulltext": "238 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nmay be seen from it which would be visible from its more\\neasterly neighbour, besides much which it conceals from\\nthe latter.*\\nFor some distance be}^ond the Forno Grlacier we stumbled\\nuncomfortably onwards over slopes of turf, occasionally\\ndiversified with patches of debris and torrent-beds, till the\\nincreasing light rendered the use of the lantern no longer\\nnecessary, and enabled us to dismiss our attendant and\\nimprove our pace. It was just 4.30 when we reached the\\nleft-hand or most westerly glacier at the head of the valley,\\ndescending partly from the SE. slope of the Konigsspitze,\\nand partly from the adjacent portion of the ridge con-\\nnecting that peak with the Sulden Spitze and Monte\\nCevedale.\\nWe felt some doubt about the identification of the\\nSulden Spitze, which is apparently a mere knob or pro-\\njection, as may be inferred from the fact that its height is\\nonly 11,109 feet; whilst that of the lowest point of the\\nridge, where we supposed the Cevedale Pass to be situated,\\ncan scarcely be less than 10,700 feet. Time would not\\nadmit of my securing a careful outline of the amphitheatre\\nof snow summits from the Konigsspitze to the Monte\\nCevedale, enclosing the head of the valley, which I the\\nmore regret, as the scenery is very fine.\\nFor farther details as to the typography of the Ortelcr group, clearing\\nup various points which were doubtful when this paper was written, see\\nthe Alpine Journal/ No. XI. (pp. 143-147) and No. XV. (pp. 353-358).", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0364.jp2"}, "365": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 239\\nThe ice proved extremely slippery, and the snow (which\\ncovered the glacier in patches) rather treacherous in places,\\nso we halted for a quarter of an hour to put on gaiters.\\nKeeping straight up the glacier which was very slightly\\ncrevassed, of great width, and probably inconsiderable\\ndepth we found ourselves about six o clock at the foot of\\nthe steep slopes leading to the ridge near where it unites\\nwith the colossal mass of the Konigsspitze. Up these we\\nworked, bearing away slightly to the left so as to gain the\\nridge as near its origin as possible, and at 6.30 stood in a\\ndepression just beneath the peak. The view over into the\\nSuldenthal and away beyond to the mountains of the\\ngreat Oetz Thai Group, the Vorarlberg, Lower Engadine,\\nc, as well as looking back towards the regions we had\\nquitted, was most beautiful and as we had the day before\\nus, and were here tolerably sheltered from the high wind\\nwhich was raving about the more exposed and lofty crests,\\nwe determined to enjoy it at our leisure whilst discussing\\na second breakfast, already almost too long postponed.\\nThe height we had now attained appeared, by a rough\\nobservation with a level, to be about the same as that of\\nthe Tresero, or in round numbers 11,600 feet and as that\\nof the Konigsspitze is 12,648, according to the Kataster,\\nthere still remained 1,000 feet to climb. At 7.15 we\\naddressed ourselves to the final tug, which proved steep,\\nthough presenting no serious difficulty. A snow slope at\\na high angle, occasionally assuming the character of neve,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0365.jp2"}, "366": {"fulltext": "240 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nand intersected here and there with incipient bergschrunds\\nwhich were easily crossed or turned, led straight up to the\\nsummit, and is perhaps the best mode by which the latter\\ncan be attained, though on this point there may exist\\nsome difference of opinion and I will not therefore insist\\non this view, which an ascent direct from the W. portion\\nof the head of the Sulden Grlacier by one of the glaciers\\nbetween the Konigsspitze and Klein Zebru may possibly\\nprove to be erroneous. At any rate, the result justified\\nour selection and though, with snow in less excellent\\norder or replaced by ice, the rate of progress might be\\nvery different, I think future travellers will do well to\\nfollow our example as was done by my friends Messrs.\\nFreshfield, Walker, and Beechcroft, who repeated the\\nascent a few weeks later.\\nIt was 8.20 when we reached the highest point. The\\nwind was here so furious and the cold so intense that it\\nwas impossible to remain still for many minutes without\\nrisk of frostbite. I managed with infinite difficulty to\\nsecure an outline sketch, which gave some idea of the\\nmajestic aspect which theOrteler here assumes as it towers\\ngrandly aloft on the other side of the W. head of the\\nSulden Grlacier. In form it strikingly resembles the Piz\\nBernina as seen from the Piz Zupo, though more precipi-\\ntous and apparently less accessible than the former peak.\\nThe view was of the grandest description, and, though\\nperhaps equalled by that from the Monte Cevedale, is", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0366.jp2"}, "367": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 241\\nsurpassed by none in the whole district, from the mere\\nfact that whilst the Konigsspitze is second only to the\\nOrteler itself in height, its situation on the axis of the\\nchain gives it a far more commanding position than the\\nlatter peak, which only cuts off a small and comparatively\\nuninteresting portion of the panorama in the direction of\\nthe Lower Engadine. To the N., S., and SE. the summit,\\nwhich is narrow but drawn out from ESE. to WNW. into\\na flattened arete, sinks away in precipices of wonderful\\nheight and steepness, on which snow only rests in places.\\nTo the E. the slope, as already stated, is more gentle,\\nwhilst to the NW. the ridge falls rapidly to the depression\\non the further side of which is seen the fine peak of the\\nKlein Zebru. In this direction it might be practicable to\\ncreep down a few hundred feet, and then, turning to the\\nright, effect a descent to the Sulden Grlacier by a steeply-\\ninclined and much-crevassed mass of ice between the\\nKonigsspitze and Klein Zebru. Christian and Franz,\\nhowever, both protested against any such attempt being\\nmade, and so, after exploring for a short distance without\\nascertaining anything very definite, we returned to the\\nsummit, and starting again at 9.10 regained our breakfast-\\nplace at 9.40. A descent to the Sulden Glacier at this\\nspot appeared difficult, if not impracticable, so we pro-\\nceeded to a point further to the E. and several hundred\\nfeet lower, which seemed to offer a better chance, and was\\nreached at ten o clock.\\nQ", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0367.jp2"}, "368": {"fulltext": "242 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nThe exact locality, which we proposed to call the Konigs\\nJoch, is distinctly marked by a conspicuous pointed rock\\nlike a gigantic cairn, which rises immediately to the E.\\nof it to a height of twenty or thirty feet. The rocks\\nhere show indications of copper, and glowed with purple\\ntints in the bright sunshine. Below us to the N., a\\nvery steep slope led down to the glacier, but the snow\\nwhich covered it was soft and unstable, and moreover\\nrested on hard ice at a slight depth below the surface.\\nHere were all the conditions requisite for the dislodgment\\nof an avalanche and the production of an accident, so we\\nturned as an alternative to a ridge of broken rocks on the\\nleft which promised more secure footing for a portion of\\nthe descent, and till an involuntary glissade in company\\nwith a mass of snow would no longer be dangerous. After\\nreading off the aneroid which gave, by comparison with\\nAosta and Turin, a height of 11,063 feet (probably some-\\nwhat in excess of the truth) we stept over the edge at 10.10,\\nand soon found that we had got our work cut out for us.\\nThe rocks were very steep, but this we should not have\\nminded if they had been trustworthy, or our number had\\nbeen smaller but the fact was that a more utterly disin-\\ntegrated, rotten, and untrustworthy collection of stones\\nprofessing to be rocks I never saw. Not even the never-\\nto-be-forgotten ridges of Monte Viso present such a com-\\nplicated scheme of treachery and deception, and doubt and\\ndistrust were the garment of our minds. This state of", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0368.jp2"}, "369": {"fulltext": "N sA warm we eomt. ftom Trau. OttltV^", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0369.jp2"}, "370": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0370.jp2"}, "371": {"fulltext": "0RTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 243\\nthings was all due to the circumstance that the ridge in\\nquestion is composed of a very pure variety of dolomite,\\nwhich I believe had not previously been observed in this\\nportion of the chain, but of the character of which there\\ncan be no doubt, as, through the kindness of Mr. Ball, a\\nsmall specimen has been analysed at the Museum in\\nJermyn Street. We crept slowly downwards, those behind\\nin constant fear of dislodging fragments upon those in front,\\nand it was not till 11.15 that we stood on the more gently-\\ninclined surface of the neve of the great Sulden Glacier.\\nAn hour s halt was here called for lunch, and at 12.15\\nwe again set forth, keeping rather to the left beneath the\\nrocks of the Konigsspitze, whose glacier-covered summits,\\nhowever, forbade a too near approach. An hour s walk,\\nvaried by about the average amount of glacier difficulties\\nin the shape of crevasses and other obstacles, took us to\\nthe central portion of the glacier amidst scenery of the\\nhighest order. The apparent height of the Orteler Spitze\\nis, indeed, slightly diminished by the convex form of the\\nback of the glacier descending from it, which conceals\\nthe lower portion of the mountain but in close proximity\\nthe huge mass of the Konigsspitze, followed by the Klein\\nZebru, was seen from base to crown, and formed a most\\nimposing feature in the view.\\nWhilst I halted to complete a drawing, my companions,\\nwho were anxious to reach Trafoi with as little delay as\\npossible, pushed on down the glacier, leaving me to follow\\nQ 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0371.jp2"}, "372": {"fulltext": "244 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nat my leisure with Christian and Franz. Three-quarters\\nof an hour thus passed away very pleasantly, and at two\\no clock I started in pursuit. The glacier is of large\\ndimensions but gentle inclination, and is fed, in addition\\nto the two affluents from the Orteler Spitze and Konigs\\nJoch, by a third, which descends from the angle between\\nthe Sulden Spitze and the southern portion of the ridge\\ndividing the heads of the Sulden and Martell Thai, across\\nwhich further to the N. lies the Suldner Joch.\\nFollowing the right medial moraine for half an hour,\\nwe quitted the ice at 2.30 for the right bank, and at three\\no clock reached Grampenhofe, the highest hamlet of the\\nSulden Thai just after passing the entrance of the Eosim\\nThai on our right. The Sulden Thai in its upper and\\ncentral portions is a pastoral valley of considerable width,\\nflanked on the W. by the magnificent snow-capped cliffs\\nof the Orteler, and on the E. by a series of minor summits\\nwhich separate it from the Valleys of Martell and Laas.\\nFine pinewoods clothe the lower slopes and these, with\\nthe broad expanse of bright-green grass that covers its\\nnearly level floor, contrast most beautifully with the\\nrugged grandeur of the higher regions. It is a striking\\nscene of quiet peaceful beauty, enhanced by the charms of\\nits setting amidst features of the highest order of grandeur.\\nThe peasants were all actively engaged in cutting or\\nsecuring their hay-crop, and for miles the busy groups\\nenlivened the solitude of this rarely-visited spot.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0372.jp2"}, "373": {"fulltext": "0RTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 245\\nI lingered for half an hour at Grarnpenhofe to indulge\\nin some milk, and at 3.30 set off once more, halting\\nfor thirty-five minutes a little lower down to sketch.\\nAt 4.25, just after crossing the torrent to its W. bank,\\nSt. Grertrud was passed on the left. The path still\\ntraverses the meadows for some distance nearly on a level,\\nand then descending more rapidly, as the gradually con-\\ntracting valley assumes more and more of a ravine-like\\ncharacter, again returns to the right bank, and continues\\nalong it as far as Gromagoi, which we reached at 6.10.\\nHere we turned sharp to the left up the Stelvio road\\ntowards Trafoi, where I arrived at 7.15, shortly after my\\ncompanions.\\nThe rest of our party had arrived from the Baths of\\nBormio some hours previously, and thus our forces were\\nonce more reunited. The little inn at Trafoi and its\\nexcellent hostess, Frau Barbara Ortler, did their best\\nto make us comfortable, and it was voted unanimously\\nthat we could not think of hurrying away, but would take\\nup our quarters there for two nights at least; that the\\nnext day should be devoted to the quiet digestion of the\\nbeauties of the neighbourhood, and the following one to\\nan ascent of the Orteler Spitze, with which we proposed\\nto close our investigations for this season at least.\\nThe next morning after breakfast there was a fresh\\narrival, whose appearance and equipment at once showed\\nhim to be a mountaineer. Entering into conversation I", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0373.jp2"}, "374": {"fulltext": "246 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nfound, to my delight, that the stranger was no other than\\nHerr E. von Mojsisovics, the well-known secretary of the\\nVienna Alpenverein. This was indeed a fortunate meeting;\\nfor though his arrangements compelled him to be at Santa\\nMaria on the 5th, and he could not therefore accept our in-\\nvitation to unite with us in the projected ascent of the Or-\\nteler, I obtained from his travelling library, as well as from\\nhimself, much very interesting and valuable information,\\nwhich might otherwise have never come to my knowledge.\\nAfter several delightful hours spent in Herr von\\nMojsisovics company I followed the rest of the party, who\\nhad started after breakfast for a stroll to the Heiligen drei\\nBrunnen, and found them encamped in a fir-wood the\\nladies busily engaged in sketching, and the gentlemen\\nintent on abandoning themselves to the luxury of laziness.\\nBy-and-by we were joined by the Herr Secretar, who\\nremained with us till it was time to return to the inn.\\nThe walk from Trafoi to the Heiligen drei Brunnen, being\\ndescribed in all the guide-books, scarcely comes within\\nthe scope of this paper but the scenery is so indescrib-\\nably grand, and the union of grass slopes, rock, and wood,\\nwhich occupy the foreground of the picture in ever-\\nvarying combinations at each fresh turn of the path, is\\nso exquisitely lovely, that I cannot refrain from urging\\nothers whose special object may be merely to cross the\\nStelvio, to halt at Trafoi for at least a couple of hours,\\nand devote them to a stroll up the valley.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0374.jp2"}, "375": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 247\\nThe slopes bounding the valley on the E. are merely\\nthe lower portion of the ridge which, descending from the\\nsummit of the Orteler in a nearly northerly direction,\\nseparates the Trafoi from the Sulden Thai, and call for no\\nspecial remark here. Next to the right, and separated\\nfrom them by a hollow or groove (called by Schaubach the\\nDobretta Thai) running up to the crest of the northern\\nspur, is the mass of the Orteler, which presents the same\\nmajestic appearance characteristic of it when seen from\\nevery other point of view. The actual summit is invisible,\\nbut a portion at least of the extensive neve which caps\\nthe shoulders of the monarch is clearly distinguishable,\\nwhilst the Pleis, a steep tongue of ice or neve occupying\\na broad couloir by which the ascent is usually effected, is\\nvery conspicuous from the neighbourhood of Trafoi. On\\nthe W. the mountain sinks rapidly down in a series of\\nstep-like crags to the level of the TJnter Trafoier Grlacier\\n(the lower Orteler Grlacier of Schaubach and other writers),\\nas I have ventured to designate the eastern of the two\\nice -streams which descend into the head of the valley\\nfrom the main ridge, of which the Orteler itself and the\\nMadatsch Spitze, on the E. and W., are only gigantic\\nspurs. Further to the right the eye rests on a rocky\\nridge separating the Unter from the Ober Trafoier\\nGrlacier, and then on the various peaks of the Madatsch\\nridge seen in perspective, till all further view is cut off\\nby a projecting buttress on the N. side of the valley", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0375.jp2"}, "376": {"fulltext": "248 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nround which the Stelvio road winds. In the angle between\\nthe foot of the Unter Trafoier Glacier and the Tabaretta\\nThai is a steep slope intersected by lines of cliff which\\nstretch across it, and clothed with a mingled growth of\\npine and legfohren to a height of 1,000 feet above the\\nvalley. Up and across this lies the track usually taken in\\nascents of the Orteler. After attaining the summit of the\\nwood, the foot of the Pleis is reached over masses of\\ndebris which have fallen from the cliffs in front. This\\nPleis constitutes the main difficulty of the ascent, from\\nits great rapidity and the frequent occurrence of falling\\nstones and hard ice requiring caution and step- cutting\\nbut when once its head is gained, there seems to be no\\ndifficulty in getting on to the upper plateau of neve and\\nto reach the highest point of the Orteler over this is\\nsimply a question of time and endurance, as no obstacles\\nof a serious character are met with.\\nHerr Mojsisovics had engaged Josef Schopf to accom-\\npany him in his various excursions during the next week\\nor two, and on his arrival we all strolled up the road to\\nreconnoitre the Orteler and decide on the route to be\\nadopted on the morrow T A careful examination of the\\n6 Pleis with the telescope showed that almost its entire\\nsurface consisted of glatt-eis which would necessitate an\\nenormous amount of step-cutting unless, as Christian sug-\\ngested and affirmed, the rocks on its left bank could be\\nclimbed. We had previously almost determined to cut\\nout a new route for ourselves by way of the Tabaretta", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0376.jp2"}, "377": {"fulltext": "Taty sk Tffmh \u00c2\u00a3cT {jtov*", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0377.jp2"}, "378": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0378.jp2"}, "379": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 249\\nThai, and this idea became a fixed resolve ere we returned\\nto the inD.\\nSome of our party had already started for Mais, and\\nthe remainder were to follow in the morning and then\\nproceed over the Ofen Pass to Zernetz and Pontresina,\\nwhilst we rejoined them by way of Mais, Nauders, and the\\nEngadine. At 9.30 we retired for a few hours sleep,\\nafter bidding adieu to the ladies and Herr Mojsisovics.\\nWe rose at 12.30 on the morning of the oth of August,\\nand at 1.45, headed by a lantern-bearer, proceeded along\\nthe now familiar path to the Heiligen drei Brunnen,\\nwhich we reached at 2.30. Striking up into the wood\\nabove, we now commenced an ascent over the miseries of\\nwhich it were perhaps better to draw a veil. Of course\\nthe guide contrived at an early stage of the proceedings to\\nmiss the way. Equally of course, the lantern was always\\nglaring in one s eyes when it was not required and blinding\\none for the next few minutes, or mysteriously disappearing\\njust when farther progress seemed impossible without its\\naid. Sometimes we tripped over the rotting stumps or\\nfallen trunks of firs, or were brought up dead against\\nminiature cliffs, or fell headlong over the long prostrate\\nsnake-like branches of the abominable legfohren (Pinus\\nMughus), which excited our especial antipathy, as the\\nannoyance they caused us was infinitely varied in cha-\\nracter. Their favourite trick was to curve round as each\\nof us in turn would force his way through their interlaced", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0379.jp2"}, "380": {"fulltext": "250 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nfoliage, and then execute vengeance on the next in the\\nfile, against whose undefended face their heavy tufts of\\nneedles would sweep back with stinging effect. How\\nhot we became, how cross we were, and how our un-\\nlucky leader fared at our hands need not here be told.\\nSuffice it to say that at four o clock we found ourselves\\nclear of the wood and standing on the edge of the great\\ndebris-covered hollow leading upwards, in a southerly and\\neasterly direction respectively, to the Pleis and Taba-\\nretta Spitze. Schaubach refers to this as the Dobretta\\nThai, but as the Austrian map of Tyrol calls the peak at\\nits head the Tabaretta Spitze, I think we may fairly adopt\\nthat form of spelling.\\nThe porter was now dismissed, and descending for a\\nshort distance, and leaving the route to the e Pleis on our\\nright, we proceeded to traverse the slopes of debris diago-\\nnally in the direction of the rocks rising above the right\\nbank of the glacier in front which fills the head of the valley.\\nThe ascent was by no means excessively steep, and several\\nmasses of well-consolidated snow (probably the remains of\\navalanches from the cliffs of the Orteler) facilitated our\\nprogress, and proved an agreeable exchange for the small\\nrolling stones. At 4.50 the ice was reached, and a halt\\ncalled till five, when we again proceeded rapidly upwards,\\nkeeping as near as possible to the rocks till forced by the\\ndislocated state of the glacier to diverge a little to the\\nright. This course was not altogether free from risk, as", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0380.jp2"}, "381": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 251\\nfor some distance the surface was strewn with fragments\\nof ice, which had evidently been recently detached from\\nthe overhanging masses of neve crowning the cliffs of the\\nOrteler. There was, indeed, no fear of being caught un-\\nawares, as the source and direction of the danger were\\nevident and though the fall of avalanches is perhaps due\\nas much to the state of the weather as to the direct action\\nof the sun, yet as a general rule they are least likely to be\\nencountered during the early morning hours, whilst in the\\ndescent the space exposed to them may be traversed so\\nrapidly as practically to prevent any risk. Since our ex-\\npedition, however, this source of danger in the new route\\nhas been entirely avoided by the selection of the next\\nvalley to the N. of the Tabaretta Thai as the line of\\nascent, and as this is doubtless the more direct course\\nfrom Trafoi it will probably be adopted in future. My\\nfriend Mr. Ormsby, who himself reached the summit of\\nthe rocks forming the N. boundary of the upper part\\nof the Tabaretta Thai, but was prevented by stormy\\nweather from getting farther, informs me that this vari-\\nation of our new route was for the first time struck out\\nthis autumn by the local guides, and Mr. Headlam, of\\nUniversity College, Oxford, who made an ascent of the\\nOrteler shortly after us. Having thus reached the head of\\nthe Tabaretta Thai, they followed our track to the summit,\\nand, in proof of their and our success, found the bottle\\ncontaining our names, attached to a small fir-tree which", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0381.jp2"}, "382": {"fulltext": "252 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nwe had planted on the highest point. But this is antici-\\npating.\\nThe neve of the glacier we had been ascending was\\nnearly level, and occupied a well-defined hollow between\\nthe rocky spur from the Tabaretta Spitze on the N. and\\nthe steep slopes of snow and ice descending from the\\nupper portion of the Orteler on the S., which here take\\nthe place of the cliffs passed farther to the W. In front\\na low but precipitous and much-weathered ridge of rocks\\nformed the eastern boundary of the neve of what I may\\nperhaps term the Tabaretta Glacier, and cut off all view\\nin the direction of the Sulden Thai. At 5.55, just before\\nreaching this, we struck off sharp to the right, and ad-\\ndressed ourselves steadily to the real work of the day.\\nThe inclination was considerable but by no means exces-\\nsive, and as the ice and snow were very hard at this early\\nhour some step-cutting was necessary. Soon a bergschrund\\nwas encountered and crossed without the slightest diffi-\\nculty, and at 6.40, after a steady and stiffish pull, we halted\\nfor breakfast at the edge of a crevasse where the surface\\nwas tolerably level.\\nThe weather was, as usual, everything that could be\\ndesired, and the view had by this time become most mag-\\nnificent, including range after range of peaks away to the\\neast, as our present position enabled us to look over on the\\nside of the Sulden Thai.\\nAt 7.20 we resumed our march, and winding steadily", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0382.jp2"}, "383": {"fulltext": "ORTELER ANE LOMBARD ALPS. 253\\nupwards without a halt, amidst and around some enormous\\ncrevasses and magnificent masses of snow, without on the\\nwhole deviating much from a direct course to the summit,\\nor encountering any really serious obstacle, we stood on\\nthe highest point of the final arete at 9.27, just seven\\nhours and three quarters after quitting Trafoi. We had\\nbeen actually on the march for six hours and three quarters,\\nand had, in fact, lost more than half an hour in the wood\\nso that our progress had been rapid, considering that the\\ndifference of altitude between Trafoi and the Orteler Spitze\\nis 7,733 feet.\\nLet me here guard myself against the imputation of\\ndoing mountains against time, a system which is, I fear,\\nbecoming not uncommon. It may be retorted that I have\\njust dwelt on the comparative rapidity of our own ascent\\nof the Orteler, but to this I would reply that the narra-\\ntives of almost all our predecessors describe the expedition\\nas a very long one that we were attempting a new route,\\nand, not knowing the nature of the obstacles we might\\nencounter at any moment, could not venture to linger\\nmuch on the way; and, lastly, that in order to effect a\\njunction at Pontresina with the rest of our party on the\\nfollowing evening, it was essential that we should get back\\nto Trafoi reasonably early.\\nThe highest ridge runs from NNE. to SSW., and looks\\nlike a gigantic snowdrift blown up by the wind to a thin\\nedge, capped on the NW. by a corniche, and sloping rapidly", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0383.jp2"}, "384": {"fulltext": "254 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\non the SE. to the fearful precipices which sink away\\ntowards the western head of the Sulden Glacier. It mi^ht\\nnot inaptly be compared to the keel of a boat turned\\nbottom-up and broken-backed, so as to allow of the stern\\nportion being tilted up. The foot of the rudder-post thus\\nreversed would represent the highest point at the NNE.\\nextremity, and the convex bottom of the boat itself,\\nsloping away on all sides, would be no unfair illustration\\nof the great dome-like mass of snow and neve which\\nclothes the broad shoulders of the mountain. The arete\\nsubsides into the general surface at its SW. end, beyond\\nwhich and in the direction of the ridge dividing the\\nSulden and Unter Trafoier Grlaciers, there is a second and\\ninferior elevation.\\nWe struck the kamm at its lowest point, and turning\\nsharp to the left proceeded along its gently-inclined pro-\\nfile, which presented no sort of danger to heads free from\\ndizziness. The day was a lovely one there was not a\\nparticle of wind, and as the sun shone warmly down upon\\nus we resolved to take our fill of the enjoyment of the\\nglorious panorama which our position commanded. This\\nwas the more needful, as our stay on the Konigsspitze had\\nbeen brief, and we were desirous of atoning for the haste\\nrendered necessary on that occasion by the intense cold.\\nTruth compels me to confess that the first portion of\\nthe two hours spent on the summit was devoted to the\\ncommissariat department, but hunger appeased, we set", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0384.jp2"}, "385": {"fulltext": "0RTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 255\\nbusily to work to make the most of the time. Clouds\\nwere already beginning to roll up here and there from the\\nvalleys, so the first thing to be done was to secure a sketch\\nand a photograph. During our progress up the slopes of\\nthe neve the legs of the camera had unfortunately slipped\\nfrom the fingers of their bearer, and gone flying down-\\nwards over the hard-frozen surface, disappearing at last\\nover a brow suspiciously like the upper lip of a crevasse.\\nAll our efforts failed to recover them, and so the future\\nlocal New Zealander may some day fish them out from\\namidst the fragments of avalanches in the Tabaretta Thai.\\nA stand was improvised for the occasion by driving three\\naxes side by side into the ridge and piling snow upon their\\nheads, which when pressed down formed, thanks to rege-\\nlation. a level and stable support. Two stereoscopic slides,\\nincluding the Monte Cevedale, the Konigsspitze, and the\\nKlein Zebru, with portions of the ridge between the first\\nand the Tresero, were at length obtained by E., and very\\nsuccessfully, as the result has proved. In the opposite\\ndirection a wonderful array of peaks met the eye. Tt\\nbegan on the W. with the summits of the Orisons, fol-\\nlowed in succession by the Bernina group, the mountains\\nof the Middle and Lower Engadine, and the still more\\ndistant Vorarlberg. Next came the remarkable depression\\nthrough which passes the route of the Finstermiinz, con-\\nnecting the valleys of the Adige and Inn. The Malser\\nHeide its broad green expanse diversified by the lakes", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0385.jp2"}, "386": {"fulltext": "256 EXCURSIONS AMONG THE\\nand bright-looking villages scattered over its surface, and\\ntraversed by the long reaches of the white road was seen\\nas on a map, bounded on the E. by the glittering snows\\nof the Weisskugel (12,620 feet) and other giants of the\\nOetz Thai. Less familiar forms succeeded as the eye\\nranged over the peaks of the Stubayer, Duxer, and Ziller\\nThai groups to the broad -snowfields of the Venediger,\\nand finally rested on the sharp outline of the Gross\\n(xlockner, south of which a perfect forest of jagged\\naiguilles indicated the position of the glorious Dolomites,\\nwhich stretch from Botzen on the W. to Villach on the E.\\nStill nearer, the fine forms of the outlying members of the\\nOrteler Group which cluster round the valleys of Sulden,\\nLaas, Martell, Ulten, and Sole, would have attracted yet\\nmore attention if the superior charms of the monarchs of\\nthe ice-world had not dwarfed their pretensions.\\nBesides the mere extent of the view and the beautiful\\ngrouping of the elements which composed it, there was on\\nthis particular day an indescribable charm of colouring\\nwhich I have scarcely ever seen equalled. The atmosphere\\nseemed to invest every object with the most wonderful\\nharmony of tone, softening all asperities, subduing harsh\\ncontrasts, and blending the whole into the perfection of\\nrepose. Time flew rapidly by, and we could willingly\\nhave lingered; but much remained to be done, and at\\n11.10 we reluctantly quitted the summit, after securing\\nan aneroid observation, from which, by comparison with", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0386.jp2"}, "387": {"fulltext": "/They descend in f-rtumpli\\nAft! So t-htzt^ Enfllsh\\ngllSJ", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0387.jp2"}, "388": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0388.jp2"}, "389": {"fulltext": "ORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS. 257\\nAosta and Turin, the height comes out 12,799 feet, or 15\\nfeet less than the result of the Kataster Survey.\\nAt 12.35, after a fruitless hunt for the lost legs, we\\nreached the level surface of the neve at the head of the\\nTabaretta Thai, and running rapidly down the ice took to\\nthe moraine on the right bank of the glacier at 12.50.\\nHere all doubt and difficulty were at an end, and we felt\\njustified in halting for a pipe till 1.30. The wood was\\nreached at two o clock, the Heiligen drei Brunnen at 2.25\\n(the Legfohren now doing good service, as we swung\\nrapidly down by their long supple arms), and Trafoi at\\nthree o clock. Groodnatured Mrs. Ortler received us with\\nwarm congratulations, gave us an excellent dinner, and\\nstarted us at 5.30 for Prad, which we reached at 6.45,\\nafter undergoing an examination of passports, and quitted\\nat seven o clock. The Orteler rose more and more grandly\\nbehind us but the light was waning fast as we drove into\\nMais at 8.30. Tea was welcome, and the prospect of a\\nlong ride in the dark to Nauders did not look tempting.\\nHowever, it was useless to grumble, as the exigencies of\\nour compact with our companions would not admit of our\\nyielding to the seductions of Mais. Conscious misery was\\nat least spared us, and I believe it was with a feeling of\\nagreeable surprise that we found ourselves turned out at\\n1 a.m. into the road at Nauders before a gloomy rambling\\nlocked-up house, which for a long time gave no sign of\\nlife.\\nR", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0389.jp2"}, "390": {"fulltext": "258\\nORTELER AND LOMBARD ALPS.\\nThus ended our campaign in the Orteler district.\\nThanks to the almost uninterrupted fine weather and the\\nable assistance of our guides, Christian Michel and Franz\\nBiener, we had on the whole cause to be satisfied with\\nthe results attained, considering how short a time we had\\nbeen able to devote to this object. It must not be sup-\\nposed, however, that nothing remains to be accomplished,\\nthat the harvest has been more than partially garnered by\\nus, or that there are not plenty of objects left for the\\nexplorer and lover of novelties, and still more for those\\nwho are wise enough to believe that mountains are\\namongst those things of beauty which will never pass\\ninto nothingness, and are not unworthy of their attention\\nbecause some one else happens to have previously trod\\ntheir summits.\\nTable of Heights.\\nDate\\nHour\\nStation\\nAneroid\\nAir\\nAosta\\nTurin\\nMean\\nProbable\\nAug. 1\\n9.45 A.M.\\nMadatsch Joch\\n20.49\\nC\\n5\u00c2\u00b0\\n10850\\n10826\\n10838\\n10750\\n11. A.M.\\nMonte Cristallo\\n19.97\\n5\u00c2\u00b0\\n11583\\n11570\\n11576\\n11370\\n5.30 P.M.\\nZebru Pass\\n21.15\\n9\u00c2\u00b0\\n9871\\n9945\\n9908\\n9700\\n3\\n8.30 A.M.\\nKonigs Spitze\\n18.91\\n4\u00c2\u00b0-5\\n12C03\\n12621\\n12612\\n12648\\n10 A.M.\\nKbnigs Joch\\n20.17\\n5\u00c2\u00b0\\n11060\\n11067\\n11063\\n11000\\n5\\n10.45 A.M.\\nOrteler Spitze\\n19.05\\n3\u00c2\u00b0-5\\n12722\\n12S76\\n12799\\n12814", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0390.jp2"}, "391": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX.\\nTHE earlier attempts to ascend the Orteler Spitze are detailed\\nwith considerable minuteness by Schaubach Deutsche\\nAlpen, B. IV. pp. 19-26), and in the second volume of the\\nMittheilungen des Oesterreichischen Alpen- Vereines, Herr\\nPegger, our immediate predecessor, has appended to his per-\\nsonal narrative a short account of previous expeditions but as\\nboth these works are comparatively unknown to English readers,\\nI venture to think that a brief outline of the results of former\\nattempts may not be without interest.\\nThe summit of the Orteler was reached for the first time on\\nthe 27th September, 1804, by a famous chamois-hunter, named\\nJoseph Pichler, with two natives of the Ziller Thai, at the insti-\\ngation of the Archduke John. They were only able to remain\\nfour minutes on the top, or just long enough to obtain a baro-\\nmetrical observation, the accuracy of which is, however, more\\nthan doubtful, as by comparison with Glurns it gave for the peak\\na height of 14,412 French, or 15,360 English feet Herr Geb-\\nhard, an officer charged with the investigation of the topography\\nof the Ober-Vintschgau, was prevented by indisposition from\\naccompanying the expedition, but in the following year, with\\nindefatigable zeal, he effected the ascent no less than three times.\\nHe seems, however, to have left no account of his adventures\\nat least I have been unable to meet with, or hear of any.\\nMore than twenty years passed by during which we hear\\nnothing more of the Orteler Spitze, but on August 20-21, 1826,\\nit was again ascended by the Austrian officer of engineers Sche-\\nr 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0391.jp2"}, "392": {"fulltext": "260 APPENDIX.\\nbelka, with Picliler for leader, and Fidel Timel of Sulden, Johann\\nBrunner of Gamphof, and Michael Gamper of Agums as subor-\\ndinate guides. The attack was first made from the side of the\\nSulden Thai, whence Gebhard s attempts were made, but enor-\\nmous masses of ice barred all further progress at about five-sixths\\nof the height of the mountain, and the original route from Trafoi\\nhad in consequence to be selected. From the concluding words\\nof this statement, which I extract from Schaubach, it would\\nappear that Pichler had started from Trafoi on the occasion of\\nthe first ascent, but why he afterwards adopted the Sulden Thai\\nas his starting-point when accompanying Gebhard is not ex-\\nplained. Be this as it may, Schebelka and his companions slept\\non the night of August 20 in a ruined hut, which is probably\\nthe one referred to in more recent narratives as situated near the\\nsummit of the wood between the Orteler Glacier (Unter Trafoier\\nFerner) and the Tabaretta Thai. Quitting this at 4.30 the next\\nmorning, they gained the summit at 3.30 p.m. Here they found\\nthe remains of Gebhard s pyramid, but in the interval since its\\nerection the summit had increased in height three klafter (18.67\\nEnglish feet). A storm unfortunately coming on, obscured the\\nview, and compelled them to beat a precipitate retreat. At 1 a.m.\\nthey reached the first trees, l still two and a quarter hours above\\nthe hut, a statement which seems inexplicable, unless the dark-\\nness of the night or their excessive fatigue rendered their pro-\\ngress extremely slow. Finally, it was not till 10 a.m. on the 23rd\\nthat they returned to Trafoi.\\nThe next and best-known ascent was effected by Professor\\nThurwieser in 1834, and is minutely described in the Zeitschrift\\ndes Ferdinandeums, 3 Bandchen, Innsbruck, 1837, pp. 89-163.\\nI have not been able to consult the original publication, but a\\ndetailed resume of the paper is given by Schaubach, from which I\\nextract the following particulars\\nPichler, now 70 years of age, with his son Lax and Michael", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0392.jp2"}, "393": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX. 26 L\\nGamper, acted as guides. The party left Trafoi at 2.30 on the\\nafternoon of the 12th of August, and following the path to the\\nHeiligen drei Brunnen, thence ascended the Bergl, the spur\\nor buttress partially clothed with wood, to which allusion was so\\noften made in the foregoing paper. In the hut at its sunimit, which\\nwas reached at 6 p.m., they took up their quarters for the night\\nat a height of 6,327 Paris, or 6,743 English feet. A start was\\neffected about four o clock on the morning of the 13th. A ridge\\ndescending from the Orteler to the Trafoi Thai separates the\\nsummit of the Bergl from the lower Orteler Glacier (Unter\\nTrafoier Ferner) which pours down on the right. This ridge had\\nto be climbed round, in order to reach the upper portion of the\\nglacier, where its surface is more level. From this passage it\\nwould appear that Tlrarwieser and his companions attacked the\\nOrteler from the W. instead of on the side visible from Trafoi,\\nwhich has been selected by succeeding mountaineers. Whether\\nhe merely followed in the track of Schebelka is not stated, but I\\nthink we may presume this to have been the case, as the same\\nguide (Pichler) led on each occasion. At 5.15 the lower Orteler\\nglacier was reached, and the first of the four sections of the\\nascent was thus successfully accomplished. The ice was at first\\nalmost concealed beneath the masses of debris which had fallen\\nfrom the cliffs of the Orteler on the left, but soon became purer.\\nProceeding upwards, at first in a southerly and then in a south-\\neasterly direction, the glacier was found to be more and more\\ndislocated, and considerable difficulty was experienced in forcing\\na passage. This obstacle surmounted, a more level portion was\\nreached, which was, however, intersected by long and wide cre-\\nvasses. The course was now altered, and they made straight for\\nthe cliffs of the Orteler itself, which were reached, not without\\ndifficulty, at 7.30, after two and a quarter hours walk over the\\nglacier. The second division of the ascent was thus accomplished,\\nand the height was found to be 1,200 Paris (1,279 English) feet", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0393.jp2"}, "394": {"fulltext": "262 APPENDIX.\\nabove the hut, or 7,527 Paris (8,022 English) feet above the sea.\\nThe rocks above appear to have proved formidable, but thanks to\\nthe skill of the gallant old Josele, and the discovery of a couloir\\nwhose upper and lower portions are known as the Schneerinne\\nand Untere Schneerinne, a sort of elevated gully was reached,\\nvery steep, and only about two or three klafter (12 to 19 feet)\\nbroad, called by Thurwieser the Obere Schneerinne. At nine\\no clock, after a short halt, the travellers proceeded upwards, over\\na succession of perpendicular rocky steps, named Wandln, from\\ntwenty to sixty feet in height, and divided by intervals, named\\nStellen, which proved scarcely less troublesome. Finally, at\\n11.7, the edge of the Upper Orteler Ferner was reached, after\\na scramble, which had now lasted four hours. Its inclination is\\nstated to be 60\u00c2\u00b0-65\u00c2\u00b0 and its surface consisted of soft snow\\noverlying neve, beneath which was hard ice. Some steps had to\\nbe cut, but after traversing a short portion of the ice, a level stony\\ntract was reached, falling away in perpendicular precipices on the\\nSW., and from which the snow had disappeared. The altitude\\nwas found to be 10,700 Paris (11,404 English) feet. A little\\nfurther on the glacier (neve) was again entered upon, and at 11.19\\nthey stood upon its first elevation or plateau. Here the giants of\\nthe Oetz Thai were descried over the ridge to the N., but the\\ndome-like form of the neve still concealed the summit of the\\nOrteler, and it being impossible to proceed straight in the direc-\\ntion in which the latter was supposed to lie, a detour was made\\nto the right. The heat and light reflected from the brilliant\\nsurface, and the increasing inclination of the latter, proved too\\nmuch for poor old Pichler, who was therefore left behind, after\\npointing out to his companions the route to be followed. The\\nleadership was now assumed by a certain Strimer, of whom no\\nmention had previously been made, but who appears to have been\\non the summit before, and is probably the same man as the one\\npreviously spoken of under the name of Gamper. The crevasses,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0394.jp2"}, "395": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX. 263\\nthough not numerous, were of enormous dimensions; but at\\nlength the goal appeared in sight, and they stood at the foot of\\nthe wind-heaped snowy arete, whose north end formed the actual\\nsummit. Here a bergschrund all but brought their farther pro-\\ngress to a stand, but it was at length successfully traversed, and\\nthe arete Schneide attained. This was blown up by the wind\\ninto a mere knife-edge, along which it was necessary to pass. On\\nthe side overhanging Sulden there was a corniche formed by the\\naction of the west wind. Finally, at 12.36, they stood on the\\nhighest point a snowy pyramid with sharp angles elevated from\\n26 to 32 feet above the dome-like expanse of neve stretching\\naway to the N. and NW. The barometer gave a height of 12,044\\nParis (12,836 English) feet, whilst the thermometer indicated\\n4\u00c2\u00b0 Eeaumur or 41\u00c2\u00b0 Fahrenheit, a temperature which rendered\\nthe halt on the summit extremely agreeable. There was not a\\nbreath of ah and the party were able, without inconvenience, to\\ndispense with their coats.\\nAt 1.30, Lax having been previously despatched to look after\\nhis father, Thurwieser followed with Strimer. At two o clock\\nthey rejoined the Pichlers, who had lighted a fire close to the\\nfoot of the upper neve at a spot the height of which was found\\nto be 10,739 Paris (11,445 English) feet. Halting here till\\n2.42, they then proceeded down the Wandln, slightly varying\\nthe route selected in the morning, and reached the lower Orteler\\nGlacier at 5.12 and the hut on the Bergl at 8.15. The next\\nmorning the Heiligen drei Brunnen were reached in one hour, a\\nDankmesse was performed in the little chapel, and the whole\\nparty then returned in high spirits to Trafoi.\\nIn all the expeditions which have just been described the\\nactual summit was attained, but no one, I believe, had since\\nsucceeded in getting beyond the foot of, or at most half-way up,\\nthe final snowy arete or Kamm until we once more planted our\\nbatons on its highest wreath.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0395.jp2"}, "396": {"fulltext": "264 APPENDIX.\\nThe upper Orteler Ferner was reached by a party from Prad\\n(including a girl of sixteen) and the Grat itself by Dr. Von\\nRuthner and Herr Karner on the 25th August 1857 (see Eine\\nErsteigung der Ortelerspitze, Mittheilungen der k. k. geog.\\nGesellschaft, 2 Jahrgang, 1858), by Herr Specht of Vienna in\\n1860, by two Irish gentlemen, Messrs. R. Jacobs and J. Walpole\\n(who were so unfortunate as to be benighted and have to camp\\nout on the neve) in 1861, and by Herr Egid Pegger of\\nInnsbruck on the 29th July 1863. Anton Ortler of Gomagoi\\nand Josef Schopf of Beidewasser seem to have generally acted\\nas guides on these occasions and, so far as I have been able\\nto ascertain, the latter appears to have given entire satisfaction to\\nhis employers, whilst the former is spoken of in more doubtful\\nterms.\\nI will conclude this historical sketch with a notice of the\\nlast-named expedition, which is briefly described by Herr Pegger\\nin the second volume of the l Mittheilungen des Oesterreichischen\\nAlpen-Vereines. The party, consisting of Herr Pegger and the\\nguides Josef and Alois Schopf of Beidewasser and Franz Hofer\\nof Tartsch, left Trafoi at five p.m. on the 24th of July, and\\nfollowed the route taken by Thurwieser as far as the summit\\nof the wood on the Bergl, which was reached at 6.30 and a\\nbivouac at once organised. A start was effected the next\\nmorning at 3.30, and proceeding across some slaty slopes and\\nup a talus of debris from the northern cliffs of the Orteler, they\\nstood at four o clock at the commencement of the long snow\\nslopes with an inclination of 38\u00c2\u00b0, above which commences\\nthe steep Pleis, which constitutes the main difficulty of the\\nexpedition. At this point the weather suddenly changed, and\\na fearful storm came driving across from the opposite side of\\nthe valley. They had just time to cross a small glacier and\\nreach an overhanging rock before the tempest burst upon them,\\nand as it was followed by steady rain, nothing remained but to", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0396.jp2"}, "397": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX. 265\\nmake the best of their way back to Trafoi, which was reached\\nin an hour and a quarter.\\nAt 4.45 on the morning of July 29 they once more stood at\\nthe entrance of the Pleis. The latter is a very uniform glacier\\nor broad ice-filled couloir, some 2,000 feet in length, with an\\ninclination of 35 to 45\u00c2\u00b0, and usually consisting in autumn of\\nhard slippery ice (Glatteis) which in the present instance was\\nstill covered with snow. In a quarter of an, hour the Burg-\\nstall, an isolated ridge of rock cropping out from the Pleis, was\\nreached, and a halt of similar duration called to put on the\\nsteigeisen or crampons. Keeping close to the rocks on the right,\\nup slopes which increased from 38\u00c2\u00b0 to 42\u00c2\u00b0 and finally to 45\u00c2\u00b0\\n(when a few steps had to be cut), they gained at 6.45 the\\nsummit of the Pleis. The height of this spot is about 9,000\\nVienna (9,334 English) feet, and its position is just at the\\ncommencement of the upper Orteler Glacier. This latter ap-\\npears to have presented no difficulties, and at 9.15 the party\\nstood on the final arete of the Orteler, twenty klqfter (124\\nEnglish feet) distant from and about eight feet below the actual\\nsummit.\\nHerr Pegger states that since Thurwieser s visit the arete and\\nthe summit had much changed, and that the latter appears to\\nhave become about three Tclafter lower, and to have shifted about\\nfour klafter farther to the E., judging from the position of the\\npole which had been there since 1834. After working along\\nthe arete for some distance, the travellers were reluctantly com-\\npelled (apparently by the want of proper axes) to abandon the\\nattempt to gain the highest point. Unfortunately, great masses\\nof cumuli lay on all the surrounding peaks, and the view was\\ntherefore almost entirely concealed. How long they remained\\nis not stated, but by five p.m. they were once more back again at\\nTrafoi.\\nIt will be seen by a comparison of this account with the", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0397.jp2"}, "398": {"fulltext": "266 APPENDIX.\\nnarrative of Thurwieser that the upper Orteler Glacier or neve\\nwas reached by the northern instead of the western face of the\\nmountain; and I believe the other recent ascents have taken\\nplace in this direction, which was discovered by Anton Ortler\\nof Gomagoi, and adopted for the first time by Dr. von Euthner\\nand Herr Karner, in 1857. An attempt made on the same day\\nfrom the Sulden Thai by Herr H. Wolf, a geologist, accompanied\\nby some guides of Gomagoi, proved unsuccessful, but the party\\nreached a height of 11,000 (Vienna) feet, and Herr Wolf attri-\\nbutes his defeat to the unfavourable weather alone.\\nFor further details on this subject as well as of more recent\\nascents, I would refer the reader to the interesting papers by\\nDr. Mojsisovics, in the volumes Mittheilungen of the Austrian\\nAlpen-Verein, and to an article by Lieut. Payer, in Petermann s\\nMittheilungen (Erganzungsheft, No. 18).", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0398.jp2"}, "399": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nThus my Italy-\\nWas stealing on us. Genoa broke with day,\\nThe Doria s long pale palace striking out,\\nFrom green hills in advance of the white town,\\nA marble finger dominant to ships,\\nSeen glimmering through the uncertain gray of dawn.\\nE. B. Browning.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0399.jp2"}, "400": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0400.jp2"}, "401": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nII ANY a page has been written on the Corniche, that\\nlTA g rea t highway along the coast of the Mediterra-\\nnean, and narrow path between Italy and France, with its\\nantique towns that seem like mere gatherings of tumble-\\ndown buildings that in old times grew up around a cara-\\nvansary of the road, or a robber stronghold, under whose\\nshelter galleys were moored in the harbour, or bandits\\nswarmed along the shore; but lately there has been a\\nfancy for old tales s stories retold legends of the road,\\nand such like histories and a plain recital of how four\\nEnglish people drove from town to town, the way their\\nhorses galloped, the exact distance they made in a given\\ntime, the costumes of the people, the wayside inns, and\\nthe thousand and one small incidents that make up a plea-\\nsant week s travel, may have some slight interest a few\\nyears hence say six or seven when this article may be\\nregarded as a rather valuable relic of the past; and\\nthe next generation, who will consider themselves by that\\ntime old enough to criticise their elders, will smile over\\nthe small adventures, the glimpses of a quiet rural ante-\\ndiluvian life which to them is a mystery of a bygone age,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0401.jp2"}, "402": {"fulltext": "270 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nThat direful giant, steam, with its strong iron feet, is pre-\\nparing to tramp with defiant snorts and much of noise\\nand smoke over that pleasant land; there will be a rail-\\nway hotel possibly, somewhere where a grove of palms\\nrises now in quiet security, or a buffet at a station, and a\\nlittle French official will shout, Dix minutes d arret\\nand young England will eat hurriedly, and then, return-\\ning to his comfortable corner of the carriage, sleep\\nthrough the tunnels to Grenoa, rejoicing in getting there\\nin time for the six o clock table d hote, and in the know-\\nledge that he has done the Corniche, and that really\\ndistances are a mere nothing. Came from Nice this\\nmorning capital smooth line slept the whole way\\nthere s such a lot of tunnels on this sort of coast one\\ncan t read one s paper in any comfort, so I took a nap,\\nand didn t try. What an awful bore travelling must have\\nbeen in the old times, when people absolutely drove the\\nwhole way, and were six days getting here, sir six days\\nof twelve hours apiece, and had to lodge as they could on\\nthe road, and of course always came to grief with springs,\\nor horses knees, or a drunken cocher, or something and\\nyet people used to call that pleasure First-rate ale at\\nthe buffet at St. Eemo I shall be back in a week, and\\nmean to do the little distance by night. It s rather a sell,\\nyou know, if one can t manage to vary one s sensations.\\nI ve got rather a new thing in a reading-lamp, and mean\\nto get up a review article going home.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0402.jp2"}, "403": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 271\\nAnd so our tale of the road comes to be written there\\nis but a little breathing time left us before some great\\ncapitalist or company comes on the ground and makes sad\\ncertainty of our fears. Just now the railroad is in a mess,\\nand at a standstill for the last two years, and longer for\\naught I know, there have been vast excavations, mounds\\nof earth flung up, tunnels begun and sometimes completed,\\nand at one little fishing village there is a stack of iron\\nrails, an ominous parallelogram, looking out of place,\\nstranded there on the sand amongst the fishing-nets, like\\na relic of San Lorenzo that may have been miraculously\\nfloated and washed ashore. Very ugly salvage the poor\\nvoituriers think as they smack their whips and drive jeer-\\ningly past. The railroad is insolvent, and no one seems\\nto know what items of humanity represent it there was\\nonce an Italian company which failed, and there is sup-\\nposed to be a mysterious understanding existing with the\\ncredit mobilier, which has no observable effect. Here and\\nthere at long intervals upon the road you encounter an\\nengineer and a man with a book or a chain, and I have\\neven seen labourers at work, and watched them with a\\nvague wonder as to whether they were real, and were\\nactually paid by somebody on a Saturday night, and would\\nbe put on again the next Monday morning.\\nThe voituriers the mail-coachmen and postboys of the\\nroad, nod their heads gloomily over their own future. It\\nis the old story over again very pathetic, to my mind.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0403.jp2"}, "404": {"fulltext": "272 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nI remember a mournful history of the end of an old post-\\nchariot, written I think by Mr. Charles Dickens, in which\\nhe tracked man and vehicle to their last resting-place,\\nand found the latter robbed of its glory of wheels and\\nshafts, grounded in a patch of cabbages, and the aged post-\\nboy living inside. If such should be the fate of the car-\\nriage in which we made our triumphal progress from Nice\\nto Grenoa, Carlo Bassetti will be able to advertise it as a\\ntwo-storied house, and let lodgings for it was wonderful\\nfor size and general convenience and comfort, could be\\nclosed or open, with the usual amount of glass windows,\\nfitted in between the woodwork, and hidden away in all\\ndirections in a marvellous manner unknown to English\\nbuilders there was a coupe which of itself would make\\na bathing machine, and a great place behind for luggage\\nwhich, with the addition of a tarpauling roof, would be an\\nadmirable outhouse. It was white outside with the dust\\nof ages, but that was part of its respectability. Its owner\\nwould have scorned to clean it, looking on such traces of\\nantiquity with much the same pride as that with which\\na butler would cherish the cobwebs that decorate the\\ncork of some especially choice vintage. And the driver\\nwas the owner, that was its crowning recommendation\\nhe could drive his well-bred wiry little horses as he\\npleased, and fortunately for us that was steadily up\\nhill, and give them their heads when they reach the\\nsummit.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0404.jp2"}, "405": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 273\\nHow poor all written words seem to describe our plea-\\nsure the big carriage lumbering up to the door of the\\nhotel, the luggage strapped on by busy porters, a great\\nbasket lifted in well stocked for picnics by the way, great\\nbunches of red and yellow roses filling up the corners and\\nresting against a perfect hedge of orange blossom on the\\nback seat. We mount to our places a light overcoat,\\ndust cloaks, muslin covers to the hats, white sunshades,\\nFrench chocolate, pale ale, pate de Strasbourg, bread and\\ncheese, and stores of bonbons, books, English newspapers\\n(our Saturday Eeview has not arrived, has been stopped\\nin Paris, alas, on account of a critical and Imperial\\nanalysis), sketch-books, and endless etcetera our cocker\\ndraws the long whip through his fingers, uncovers to the\\ncompany, who, assembled under the verandah, watch our\\nstart with sympathising interest, the secretary congratulates\\nus upon the weather, we compliment him upon the ad-\\nmirable arrangement of his hotel, men spring apparently\\nout of the earth and touch their caps insinuatingly and\\nthen with delicately graduated shades of appreciation, the\\ncocker mounts to his box, gathers up the long reins, care-\\nfully sits on the end of them, cries avanti to his horses,\\nand with a cheery bon voyage from the verandah, we\\nwheel round the corner at a quick trot, and with gay\\nsmackings of the whip and jubilant outcries from the\\ndriver, and a glad chorus of little barkings from the very\\nsmall dog who sits up on his tail on the topmost trunk", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0405.jp2"}, "406": {"fulltext": "274 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nbehind, trying to look like a chasseur, we make a good\\nstart in the pleasant afternoon sunshine.\\nThere had been a sudden shower, which had laid the dust\\nand washed the great shining lemon leaves, and cooled and\\nfreshened the air, and here and there the scarlet geranium\\nblossoms were scattered across the path as we passed open\\ngateways or light railings, that made pleasant breaks in\\nthe stretch of high-walled gardens, and showed us glimpses\\nof villas, and beds gay with flowers, houses that for the\\nmost part were settling into a state of summer somnolency,\\nwith firmly-shuttered windows closed till the next season\\nfor the flight of birds and humans southwards, left under\\nthe care of sunburnt cheery old women, who sat on the\\nlowest step of the terrace by the big orange tree in the\\ngreen tub, their heads tied up in red handkerchiefs, and\\nwith a snowy fichu drawn across the shoulders, the withered\\nringers busy with their knitting, never stopping in their\\nwork, though they look up and nod with a bright buona\\nsera as we rattle past. Oh the high balustrade, a few\\nyards further, is a pretty group, rich enough in its brilliant\\ncolouring to beguile a painter for a long day s work in the\\nsun, a bright brown face laughing down on the child\\ncrowing at the horses, and askant at us, with innocent\\nhappiness in the great black eyes. The masses of wavy\\nhair are almost blue in the light, and the woman sits with\\nan indolent grace, full in the sunshine, which strikes on\\nher uncovered head, and makes deep sharply-cut shadows", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0406.jp2"}, "407": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 275\\nacross her neck and hands, and the white wall against\\nwhich she leans, her scanty dress draping itself in soft folds,\\nof a deep warm colour, like the tint of an Etruscan vase\\nor fresh bright earth, wonderfully in harmony with such a\\nhead. These women love strong quiet-toned colours, as\\nthough their eyes needed the rest of such amidst the glare\\nof white stone and marble, where earth and sea and sky\\nseem scintillating w T ith light. April was drawing to a close,\\nso these pleasant-faced concierges were fairly in possession,\\nand their little children watched us under perfect bowers\\nof roses and clematis, that grew about the gates. As we\\nmounted higher, the valleys and hills surrounding Cimier\\nlooked most lovely in the afternoon warmth and light, and\\nfar away in the distance the Col di Tenda shone white and\\nglistening with snow. A fresh turn in the road, a steep\\nbit surmounted, and a whole range of snowy peaks came\\ninto view. Our cocker gave an exultant smack with his\\nwhip, and cried, e Voild les Alpes maritimes. The horses\\nsniffed the clear mountain air, which came to us in\\ngreat gusts, blowing through their manes, their heads\\nheld up to meet it with little glad neighings of delight,\\nand the travellers turned eager eyes towards the moun-\\ntains, welcoming them as old friends, and drinking in the\\ndelicious air, le vent frappe, which came to them across\\nthe ice-fields, with happy remembrances of glacier expedi-\\ntions, and cool tramping through the snow. The hill was\\nsurmounted, and after the hot climb it was pleasant to", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0407.jp2"}, "408": {"fulltext": "276 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\ndash round the long curves of the road in a good canter,\\nfeeling our spirits rising with every new peak that came\\ninto sight, and every fresh little burst of the horses, who\\nwere ready to race anything and everything on the road,\\nand dashed recklessly past a staid old cure in a gig, and\\nmuleteers descending towards the shore, and the small\\nragazzi of the road, who gave us cheers, ironical or con-\\ngratulatory, as we passed.\\nStill higher and higher, till Nice was hidden from view,\\nwhich we had been looking down upon round an inland\\ncorner. The sea once more came into sight, not the\\nbrilliant emerald of the morning, but a peacock blue and\\ngreen, almost as deep in tinting as the dark little Tyrol\\nlakes, and apparently floating upon it, far below us, was\\nthe grey promontory beyond Villa Franca, lying like a\\ngreat flat oyster-shell out on its travels. The hills were\\nall grey and crumbly, with violet shadows, which are\\nsometimes almost of an inky blackness. The little town\\nof Esa was hardly to be distinguished from the stones it\\ngrew out of our road led us between broken bits of rock\\nwhere vegetation seemed to have died away, and a roman-\\ntic or melodramatic mind might revel in the knowledge\\nthat somewhere hereabouts there was once a murder,\\nsacrilege committed, a papal ban following, and an ec-\\nclesiastical malediction, beneath which flowers faded, crops\\nperished, and the stones were allowed to have it all their\\nown way. But even such a wealth of interest and legend-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0408.jp2"}, "409": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE EOAD. 277\\nary lore did not tempt us to linger. We met flocks of\\ngoats, who seemed to find the excommunicated grass rather\\npoor living, women and children, travellers on foot and in\\ncarriages, and found palms, pines, olives in every hole\\nand cranny, when once the more desolate hills were left\\nbehind, and, above all, flowers everywhere. Each little\\nthree-year-old beggar on the road had roses in its hand,\\nand it took some time to harden our hearts against such\\npoetical mendicity a pair of lovely eyes lifted pleadingly\\nas you pass, and a bunch of red roses held out in silence.\\nThey look like little St. Barbaras, or sweet young Saint\\nElizabeths of Hungary, and it is only the constant repeti-\\ntion of such groupings that, like the ubiquitous properties\\nof relics, restores the Protestant mind to its proper tone\\nof calm common sense.\\nAs the shadows lengthen, the sea breeze begins to blow.\\nThe little green lizards, who have been basking in the\\nheat, scamper up the high white walls, and vanish amongst\\nthe lemon trees, which grow more and more frequent, and\\nare gay with their ripe fruit and thousands of blossoms,\\nricher and brighter in their tintings than the white orange-\\nbuds which bloom amidst their great golden balls. The\\nfalling dew seems to make them exhale a fresher, deeper\\nperfume. The air is intoxicating with their sweetness, and\\nit is almost more than is good for us and the insects.\\nAfter our two weary days journey through France, we\\nseemed suddenly to have entered upon a new existence,\\nS 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0409.jp2"}, "410": {"fulltext": "278 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nand to be nearing those enchanted gardens of the Hes-\\nperides, looking, as Jason did, upon\\n1 A place not made for earthly bliss,\\nOr eyes of dying men, for growing there\\nThe yellow apple and the painted pear,\\nAnd well-filled golden cups of oranges\\nHung amid groves of pointed cypress trees\\nOn grassy slopes the twining vine-boughs grew,\\nAnd hoary olives twixt far mountains blue,\\nAnd many-coloured flowers, like a cloud\\nThe rugged southern cliffs did softly shroud\\nAnd many a green-necked bird they saw alight\\nWithin the slim-leaved, thorny pomegranite,\\nThat flung its unstrung rubies on the grass,\\nAnd slowly o er the place the wind did pass\\nHeavy with many odours that it bore\\nFrom thymy hills down to the seabeat shore.\\nThe green frogs sit under the bulrushes, and make a great\\ndeal of noise, each having much to say, and all croaking at\\nonce. We descend rapidly by wonderful curves, and cross\\nhigh narrow bridges, and feel we are indeed nearing Italy,\\nas we see the steep slope before us terraced with the utmost\\ncare and gardening toil. It looked in the distance as\\nthough some burly giant had built himself an easy flight\\nof steps to the shore, thinking a little sea-bathing might\\nbe good for his constitution.\\nAt about six o clock we drew near the first villas of\\nMentone, anticipating with fond security at least two\\ngood nights sleep, and a day of happy exploration among\\nMorris s Jason.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0410.jp2"}, "411": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE EOAD. 279\\nthe hills but, unfortunately for our hopes, there was a\\ncanker at the root that is to say, an insect in the air (a\\nfact to be multiplied by thousands Some one had\\nwarned us against one of the bays. We were quite satisfied\\nso far, but there our information ended, and we could not\\nrecall which was the right one.* Not that there was much\\nchoice for at this season Mentone was preparing in hot\\nhaste for its summer repose. We encountered but one or\\ntwo stray travellers in the streets as we drove through the\\nlittle town, and thought ourselves fortunate in seeing the\\nwindows still open of the Hotel de la Paix, and a waiter\\nsitting on the doorsteps contemplating the sea. Here we\\ncould have rooms, and the society of a famille anglaise,\\nwho formed the table d hote. We were soon established in\\ncapital quarters, and made acquaintance with the English\\nfamily of two, who told us the hotel was to have been\\nclosed that day, and would probably be so on the morrow,\\nand that they thought we should find the provisions\\nwere at an end but we decided that, as the family were\\nthere for their health, they naturally took a morbid\\nview of things, and that it would all come right;\\nand we made enquiries as to donkeys for the morrow,\\nand laid plans for a picnic, which our father regarded\\nsceptically. The dinner was objectionable, both as to\\nquantity and quality, coming suddenly to an end before\\nThe Mosquitoes are said to be entirely confined to the bay of Mentone,\\nnearest Genoa.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0411.jp2"}, "412": {"fulltext": "280 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nwe were at all prepared for such a denouement but we\\nwere still hopeful, and made the best of everything. The\\nEnglish family was to start early the next morning for\\nParis and Dover, and after the dinner they said good-bye,\\nadding mournfully, they hoped we should not find the\\nmosquitoes troublesome How any invalid could have\\nsupported for weeks the life of bersaglieri conflict we\\nendured during that one night, and lived, it is impossible\\nto conceive.\\nFeeling a little uncomfortable after such a warning, on\\nreaching our rooms we instituted a search the walls were\\nliterally lined with an army of invaders, and for the next\\ntwo hours the battle raged fiercely there was a slipper,\\na handkerchief, a high-heeled boot, and the courage of\\ndespair on one side; on the other, the immensity of num-\\nbers, and a spirit of daring utterly reckless of conse-\\nquences the slaughter was terrible, but the mosquitoes\\nremained virtually masters of the field. Of course we\\nwould not allow that we were beaten, and we did lie\\ndown and even tried to sleep, trusting feebly in the pro-\\ntection of our gauze draperies, and then the enemy had\\ntheir revenge under the cover of night they made fresh\\napproaches and prepared to destroy us by wholesale con-\\nsumption. Had sufficient time been given them, they\\nmight have succeeded in their object, but with the first\\ndawn of day we reasserted ourselves and sat up feeble\\nindeed and exhausted, but with sufficient strength to pre-", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0412.jp2"}, "413": {"fulltext": "Ou/T fn%t artaiA\\nTL\\ntncrny tcu\\nlL.inol elioTge. ctgcui", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0413.jp2"}, "414": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0414.jp2"}, "415": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0415.jp2"}, "416": {"fulltext": "Cai-ry. nrf dowa Hie. Lemons Men lone.\\n\u00e2\u0080\u00a2y.ng", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0416.jp2"}, "417": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAP. 281\\npare for flight. Of course another such night was not to\\nbe thought of, and we arranged to start in the afternoon\\nfor San Kemo, devoting one morning to seeing what we\\ncould of the nearest hills above Mentone and the little\\ntown itself.\\nThe people look poor, and their houses are dirty and\\npoverty-stricken, as in so many of these fishing villages,\\nwhere the women are almost always thriftless and untidy,\\nand the houses grievously ill-cared for. Much has been\\ndone for the people by many good charitable souls, schools\\nestablished for the children, and earnest quiet labour per-\\nsevered in for many years to help the poor mothers,\\nmorally and spiritually, but there is still sore need for\\nmore. Grladly and thankfully recognising the vast amount\\nof good already effected by many strangers and inhabitants,\\nwe may be allowed to plead for yet greater efforts and\\nindividual work amongst the people of these winter homes\\nin Italy. This beautiful little town has grown up very\\nsuddenly, almost called into existence out of its old life\\nas a fishing village by the needs and affection of the\\nEnglish. We have signified our pleasure in the place,\\nand houses and hotels and shops have sprung up as a\\nnatural sequence, and we rather pride ourselves on\\nspending a good deal of money there, and doing a\\ngreat amount of good to the people. I often wonder\\nwhether that is true practically, whether these poor\\nhonest-faced dirty southerners are any the better for our", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0417.jp2"}, "418": {"fulltext": "282 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\ncoining and building houses on their fair headlands\\nand big hotels in the little streets. We settle down\\nwith home newspapers, and pleasant picnics, and almost\\nfraternise with these picturesque peasants over our sketch-\\nbooks, and feel we are setting them a very good example\\nby our conduct in general, and our English Sundays in\\nparticular. It is a good, pleasant, harmless life enough\\nbut surely there is better stuff in us, an infinite power\\nof helping and teaching, and plenty of will to do the\\nwork, if only we would stop to think about it. These\\nmoralisings will hardly fit into our story of a drive along\\nthe shore, but we and our horses need halting-places, and\\nif there is no time for such action as we are pleading for,\\nthere is often time for a wonderful amount of thought.\\nLady Herbert has written on this subject words that are\\nso good and true, that we must venture to repeat some of\\nthem here. 6 Let us ask ourselves why it is that, among\\nthe many English who yearly go abroad to seek for health\\nor enjoyment in a southern climate, so few are found to\\ndevote any portion of their time during those winters to\\nthe care of the sick and suffering poor around them?\\nThey do it gladly at home; in their own villages it comes\\nas a matter of course. Why is it then that they shrink\\nfrom doing it abroad Is there not everywhere suffer-\\ning to be relieved, kind and soothing words to be spoken,\\nlittle and comparatively costless pleasures to be given?\\nThis short time devoted to God s poor will brighten", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0418.jp2"}, "419": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 283\\nand sanctify their lives will give them an aim and a\\npurpose unknown to the desultory pleasure-seekers around\\nthem and the very dullest residence will become to them\\nat once invested with an interest and a charm which no\\nworldly amusement can afford while their memory will\\nlive in the hearts of the grateful people, and a mutual\\nlove will spring up between them which neither time nor\\ndistance will efface.\\nUp, by a steep winding path, we mounted slowly in the\\nhot noon-day sun, seeking the little English burial-ground.\\nA terrace, bounded by a broad stone balustrade, crowns\\nthe hill and looks down upon the sea a little spot, a mere\\nstrip of earth, but dear and hallowed to how many hearts\\nThere are but a few graves, but they have been tenderly\\ncared for, and are beautiful with pure white crosses and\\nbroad slabs of stone, half hidden by the masses of the\\npurple passion-flower, of red roses, of sweet-scented lilies,\\nthat cluster at their feet and wind their tendrils clingingly\\nacross the carven marble; signs and emblems of so\\nmany things of faithful human love, true and unfor-\\ngetting, of young lives that have faded in their noon-\\nday sun, and in all the beauty of their bloom and, above\\nall, rose and passion-flower, emblems of -Love and Death,\\nmysteries the deepest and the most divine, Christus Sal-\\nvator written upon every leaf. Here, where the scented\\nair is heavy with the perfume of orange blossom and\\nmusical with the hum of happy insect life, those who were", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0419.jp2"}, "420": {"fulltext": "284 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nweary, and maybe somewhat heavy laden, have lain down\\nto rest, very quietly, with folded hands, waiting the last\\nglad Evangel. Far below them, softened as it nears the\\nshore by a veil of silver-leaved olives, the sea lies green\\nand still, stretching far away to meet the deep blue of the\\nsky. Bells from the old church towers half-way down\\nring matins and vespers to the sailors on the water, and\\nthe dwellers in the little town, where houses are piled one\\nagainst another in picturesque confusion, each gaining as\\nbest it may a doubtful foothold on the steep hill-side,\\ntheir deep red roofs making pleasant bits of colour amongst\\nthe grey woods and the golden lemon orchards. This\\nlittle burial-ground is not hidden away from human hopes\\nand sympathies and daily life, is neither lonely nor de-\\nserted, only 6 set apart, lifted above the turmoil and the\\ncare, and lying in the sunshine. And so He giveth His\\nbeloved sleep.\\ntJ\u00c2\u00a3 Tfp ^F 3l 7ft tF\\nThe mistrael was blowing as we drove away from Men-\\ntone; a wind most undeservedly belied, we thought, as\\nwe welcomed the cool fresh breeze from the sea. Almost\\nevery one knows the road, so there is little need of re-\\ncapitulating a list of all its charms and interests. It\\nresembles an old mail-coach road in England in one\\nrespect only, that it is kept in thoroughly good repair,\\nand differs from it inasmuch as it is rich in many a mile\\nof rather tumble-down old villas, in glorious eastern palms,", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0420.jp2"}, "421": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 285\\nin hedges of green and prickly pear, in little shrines to the\\nMadonna, in crowds of beggars waiting with an Italian s\\nlazy patience at lonely corners, and catching a diligence\\nat a long hill, in Spanish-looking mules, and Murillo-like\\nboys who cry for soldi, and in the general absence of\\nturnpikes. Our stage was a short one again and quickly\\nover, the little horses doing their work merrily and rattling\\ntheir bells at the beggars, whom they left gasping far\\nbehind. The laws of the road are as binding as those of\\nthe Medes and Persians. No two-horse carriage may pass\\none with four, as long as it is in motion. We had a fifth\\nhorse, but we should have scorned to make the most of\\nthat small advantage, or to have attempted to distance a\\nvoiture a quatve chevaux with which we had a speaking\\nacquaintance, if it should so happen that that voiture\\nshould start some fine morning before us. As it was, it\\nwas just one day behind. But there was always the dili-\\ngence a diligence going to Grenoa, and one to be met on\\nthe way, and the law says that the diligence may pass\\nanything. These enactments are not, I believe, to be\\nfound on parchment, but they certainly do exist, either\\nwritten in the dust on the carriage or stamped on the\\nconsciences of the drivers, and sorrow comes invariably to\\nthose who attempt to evade them at all events, we nearly\\ncame to direful grief after setting them at defiance, as my\\ntale will show.\\nThere was one carriage on the road with four English,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0421.jp2"}, "422": {"fulltext": "286 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nwho went slowly and steadily forward, getting up early\\nand always making a long day s work of it we learnt\\nto know their faces, and once when they overtook us while\\nwe were lunching and feeding two small boys with cakes\\nand oranges, we longed to indulge our impulse to extend\\nhospitality to our countrymen, feeling intuitively that they\\nmust be hungry but the fear of the world s dread laugh\\nat such a solecism, and their probably well-bred astonish-\\nment in the remembrance that we had not been intro-\\nduced, deterred us, and we had to fall back upon a brother\\nand sister in a landau who were younger, and with whom,\\nhaving fraternised previously at Nice, we were in a posi-\\ntion to share a biscuit without indiscretion.\\nAt five o clock (two hours from Mentone), we drew\\nup at the Hotel Victoria in pleasant San Remo. How\\nRomulus and Remus were ever canonised it is difficult to\\nimagine; but tradition tells of an archbishop of Genoa\\nof the ninth century, a St. Romulus, in whose honour the\\nlittle town of Matuta was built; but faring badly under\\nhis auspices, and being roughly handled by the Saracens,\\nwho cared little for the saintly benediction, the inhabitants\\nretreated to the hills, and tried their fortune once more\\nunder the same august patronage. A hundred years later\\na band of enterprising citizens descended once more to\\nthe coast, and rebuilt the fallen houses of Matuta, to\\nwhich, says Mons. Elisee Reclus, on donne le nom de\\nSanremo, pour indiquer ainsi la fraternite des deux cites", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0422.jp2"}, "423": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 287\\nvoisines the saintly prefix being a delicate touch of\\nsouthern sentiment and national vanity, gratifying at once\\nto the small town itself, and to the feelings of the younger\\nof the old Roman brothers. San Remo is certainly under\\nthe especial patronage of one of the first Roman prince\\nbishops (if ecclesiastical history decides to regard the\\ngreat Twins in that light, being always a little vague and\\nshadowy as to times and seasons), and flourishes accord-\\ningly, being a bright, cheery, cleanly place. Old San\\nRomulus has a few houses somewhere near by, but he is\\nmerely looked upon as a poor relation, hardly to be recog-\\nnised by San Remo in its prosperity.\\nThe visitors here, too, were mostly gone, though there\\nwere many idlers under the chestnut avenue, carriages\\ndriving home, and sweet-faced English children, talking\\nlittle broken French sentences to their bonnes. At the\\nhotel we were e monarch s of all we surveyed, or at least\\nsole tenants-at-will. There was plenty of time for a walk,\\nso the ladies of the party started on a voyage of discovery,\\nthe success of which looked doubtful, as only the youngest\\ntraveller could speak a word of Italian, and her Italian was\\nthe language of Manzoni, and unadapted to the questions\\nand remarks incident to common life. The others usually\\nadopted a system, very simple, but sure in its results;\\nthey always went straight to their point if a church\\nwas the object desired, they said e chiesa or e basilica,\\nfeeling so far safe, and then added the name of the par-", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0423.jp2"}, "424": {"fulltext": "288 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nticular church, or its patron saint, interrogatively. This\\nalways elicited a voluble reply, which being unable to\\ncomprehend, they waited till the native was exhausted,\\nand then pointed, still interrogatively, to the four points\\nof the compass; one being indicated, and a clue thus\\ngiven, they instantly seized it and started, and wherever\\nthe path became two or even three, as paths are given to\\ndo suddenly in a totally unexpected and aggravating\\nmanner, they would stand patiently and point again.\\nBut this language of signs was scorned, as belonging\\nsimply to the infancy of nations, by the youngest traveller,\\nwho conscientiously endeavoured to unravel the remarks\\nof the inhabitants, and to follow their advice, which\\nsometimes led the party into the perplexities of a water-\\ncourse, or a cul de sac amongst vineyard walls. In the\\npresent instance, we were bound to the Church of La\\nSanta Annunziata as it was on the summit of a hill, and\\nmost of the paths went up steps, we rightly supposed\\nthat one or other staircase would land us there at last,\\nthough sometimes we appeared to go through the very\\nhouses of the townspeople, and into second stories of the\\nbuildings, where it seemed impossible we could come out\\nanywhere but on the roofs. At last, however, the stairs\\ncame to an end, changing to stones and pebbles and\\nthen olive trees grew again on grass slopes, and we met\\nwomen laden with baskets of lemons, and men and boys\\nwith goats and mules, preparing to go down the stairs,\\nand finding their stables somewhere on the third or fourth", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0424.jp2"}, "425": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 289\\nstories of that queer heap of old tenements. The view\\nfrom the plateau above was very fine, but we feared to\\nlinger, as twilight was deepening, and there were some\\nvery rough-looking people to be passed on our way\\ndown under the dark arches. One old crone, fearful to\\nlook upon, with eager eyes, and scanty grey hairs, and\\nwithered hands held out as if to grasp us, begging for\\nbuona mano vociferously, and with angry declamation,\\nand a dark handsome woman with a wild face followed\\nus muttering excitedly, and only half willing to let us\\ngo by. Out in the open air again, we ran down a dry\\nold watercourse, exchanging good night with the peasants\\nreturning from the fields; one with a sheep and lamb\\nfastened by a cord, one bending beneath a heavy load of\\nfresh grass, and with a goat that followed bleating, while\\nshe gossiped with a handsome-faced contadino, who, with\\nhis dog and gun, lingered at her side. There was a\\npaper on the church door above, granting plenary in-\\ndulgence to all visitors; on the strength of which, no\\ndoubt, the old women on the staircase exact their dole of\\ncharity.\\nOn the following morning we tried to get to the top\\nof an olive wood, but found it hard work to ascend a\\nhill monotonously terraced, to keep the earth, which is\\nalways carefully prepared and manured, about the roots\\nof the trees, and with a series of steep steps and broken\\npiles of stones designed for the use of man; very rough\\nstepping-stones we thought them for the poor bare-footed", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0425.jp2"}, "426": {"fulltext": "290 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\ngirls, who came down so heavily weighted, that they could\\nnot pick their way, and must have often suffered cruelly\\nin the descent. Here, again, our father wisely sought\\nshelter and repose aux bords de la mer, while the three\\nother travellers began their toilsome climb. An olive wood in\\ntheory, and to a certain extent truly so, is a very beautiful\\nthing, but it was noon of a hot summer s day, the sea-\\nbreeze had prudently remained below also, and the top\\nboughs of the olive trees alone caught any air that was\\ngoing that way the staircase seemed to go on for miles\\nit was like a very early and rude representation of Jacob s\\nladder, the top whereof was lost in the clouds. We gave\\nup in despair our hopes of looking down on the highest\\nolive trees, seating ourselves instead for a long rest in the\\ngrass, and tried to paint their silver leaves, and the fair\\ngreen sea that lay smiling far below us, and the blue light\\nabove our heads, and then scrambled down again to San\\nEemo, with handfuls of wild flowers of a rare beauty, as\\nour reward. Very welcome was some vin du pays, in the\\nshape of lemonade made from the fresh fruit cool and\\nscented as its blossoms.\\nA thunderstorm gathered later over the town, the\\nlightning flashed, and there were growlings and mutter-\\nings amongst the hills, and then the heavy drops fell with\\na dull plash, faster and faster, and a great sheet of water\\ndashed against our windows and darkened the leaves and\\nearth. A pleasant storm, soon over, welcome as summer", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0426.jp2"}, "427": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 291\\nrain always is, and followed by sunshine that was reflected\\nfrom each little bead of light hanging on the flowers, or\\nglistening on the harness of our good little beasts, who,\\nstanding at the door, pawed the ground impatient to be\\noff again. Some of the last day s dust had possibly been\\nwashed away in that sudden flood, and made some dirty\\nlittle muddy pools amongst the baggage but during the\\ncourse of ages the dust on a real old campaigner is\\neither ingrained or veneered; it is an indurated white\\ncovering, composed originally of a pulverised conglome-\\nrate, a deposit which in time adheres so closely to its\\nreceptacle that it forms part of the whole, and it would\\nbe difficult for the most skilful analytical chemist to say\\nwhere leather ends and where dust begins.\\nWhat perfect happiness it was, perched up in the coupe,\\nto look down on those fine good little steeds, who took\\nkindly to the road as though they enjoyed the fun as\\nmuch as we did, to watch the way in which one would\\nsham fatigue and give up pulling, and how a little re-\\nproachful word from the cocker touched its conscience in a\\nmoment, and sent it into a repentant gallop at the next\\nhill. How perfectly he had them in hand, and how well\\nthey knew him A low whistle would check them in a mo-\\nment at the greatest speed, and as for the whip, that was\\nsimply used as a musical accompaniment, Bassetti looking\\nferociously around as we clattered through the queer little\\ntowns on our route, lashing out right and left in a way", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0427.jp2"}, "428": {"fulltext": "?92 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nthat imposed on nobody. No one who has not driven a\\nmail-coach through the narrow alleys about the Seven\\nDials, or any other well-known and populous retreat, would\\nbe qualified to take the place of an Italian voiturier\\nthe highway becomes in a moment the width of your\\ncarriage, and the old houses topple over threateningly,\\nonly prevented from falling on you by great beams, that\\nprop them up, and arches that rest between their upper\\nstories suddenly, your road narrows, if that were possible,\\nand goes into a tunnel it is like driving through a drain,\\nwith humans instead of rats clinging to the walls to escape\\nyour wheels and rags, and fish, and miserable merchan-\\ndize of beans and polenta, filling up the openings to the\\ndwellings where the poor creatures congregate in crowds.\\nHere the whip has enough to do, and twists itself into a\\nlittle agony of warning shrieks to any carriage or diligence\\nthat may rashly enter the tunnels at the other end. A\\nqueer fact this to be realized, that a road between Italy\\nand France, after all that has been said about the march\\nof civilization, the high road of nations, the progressive\\nadvancement of humanities, has to creep through the\\nafore-mentioned drains literally or metaphorically, how-\\never proudly it may set out on its travels. It is a pity,\\nsurely, that somehow it has left so little trace of its pro-\\ngress in any change for the better, for a small matter of\\neight or nine hundred years\\nTravelling on, we turned a headland and came upon", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0428.jp2"}, "429": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 293\\nPorto Morizio, a grand pile of buildings, churches, chapels,\\nhouses, with rows of arcades and open loggw rising one\\nabove the other, and towering over the sea. A mile and a\\nhalf at an easy canter, and we are at the handsome suspen-\\nsion bridge, with its two marble arches, that leads to Oneglia,\\nwhere we and our horses are to rest for the night. Porto\\nMorizio is a modern affair as compared to Romulus and\\nRemus, a mere eleventh century town, but boasting some\\n6,000 inhabitants Oneglia lies on the low land beside the\\nsea, and, according to our old friend Reclus, the former\\noffers an aspect superb, the latter is simply c gracieuse\\nIn both, work being over for the day, the streets were\\nswarming with people, and od this coast, as Mr. Dickens\\nsays of some nearer home, a good many men seem to earn\\ntheir livelihood by looking at the sea. At the arc de\\ntriomphe of the bridge was a toll-bar, necessitating a\\nslight delay, a huge diligence painted black and yellow\\nand looking like a collection of gigantic bees that had\\njust swarmed and brought their luggage with them, stood\\nheavily freighted, but with a good team of six horses,\\nwaiting while the driver, who had descended to pa} 7\\nfumbled for his change. We saw a gleam of delight in the\\neye of our cocker, and cried Avanti under our breath\\nflinging down a coin without drawing rein, he gave the\\nhorses their heads, the diligence driver rushing wildly to\\nhis place, and only regaining it as we dashed by, and then\\nfor seven minutes and a half there was almost a neck\\nT 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0429.jp2"}, "430": {"fulltext": "294 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nand neck race, the two great lumbering carriages swinging\\nfrightfully from side to side as we dashed through the\\ntown. Our leaders once bolted across an open piazza,\\njamming us however in such a manner that no one could\\npass, and we managed to hold our own and make a fresh\\nstart, townspeople and salesmen, carts and carriages\\ndrawing hastily aside, and with a gasp of content we\\ndrew up at the Hotel Eoyal, winners by a length\\nThe evening was glorious, and after securing rooms, the\\nfeminine portion of the party was tempted by the rich\\nsunset light to linger in the open air, while our father\\nreturned to the hotel, and ordered supper. The ladies\\nwandered round to the port at the back of the town,\\nmaking small sketches of Porto Morizio in its aspect\\nsuperbe, of a cart and two great sleepy, mild-eyed, dun-\\ncoloured oxen, of women and babies, who also lingered on\\nthe quay, enjoying the coolness and rest. Some few sailors\\nand sous-ojfjficiers gathered round, and pleasant-spoken\\npeasants, who criticised the drawings and politely ex-\\npressed their pleasure over the sketch-books but gradu-\\nally a plague of small boys began to darken the air first\\none or two, like the scouts of the mosquitoes, hovered\\nnear, then, growing bolder, they signalled to their fellows,\\nand the gnats began to swarm. They were tolerably re-\\nspectful at first, keeping at a moderate distance, and acting\\nalmost as a garde rfhonneur, conducting the ladies to the\\nMole, where they lingered rejoicing in the great waves that", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0430.jp2"}, "431": {"fulltext": "Standing a\\\\ i ay\\nV^^^S\\nDefying fhe. MifiJa-^\\nOnega", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0431.jp2"}, "432": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0432.jp2"}, "433": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 295\\ndashed against the narrow wall, bringing a gusty smell of\\nthe sea, and flinging a pleasant briny spray upon their\\nfaces. But the ragazzi of Oneglia were unable to com-\\nprehend the enjoyment of the English in standing to be\\nwetted with salt water, and evidently believed they must\\nhave some secret reason for their excursion on the Mole,\\nthat, if known, would prove to be of vast interest. The\\nimpression spread that something must come of it, and\\nmore boys arrived each moment, till the following\\nbecame somewhat troublesome. The youngest traveller\\nenquired, in her choicest Italian, whether they had never,\\non any previous occasion, encountered wild or unknown\\nanimals, to which the most intelligent of the mob gravely\\nreplied, c Signorina, never. Four of the boys went in\\nfront, the mob always keeping the necessary space clear,\\nand executed somersaults in the hope of extracting sous,\\nand about sixty constituted themselves a body-guard. It\\nwas impossible to disperse them, and as fresh arrivals\\nswelled the numbers every moment, and none of them\\nreally knew what they were looking at, they took to\\ncheering as a lively exercise, which they seemed to find\\nso beneficial that the performance was unanimously pro-\\nlonged.\\nThe ladies having vainly requested to be left in peace,\\nwalked in dignified contempt, three abreast, towards the\\nshelter of the hotel, afraid to laugh, and disdaining to run,\\nand were conducted to the very door amidst ironical vivas", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0433.jp2"}, "434": {"fulltext": "296 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nAbout one hundred and fifty boys and girls immediately\\ntook up a position in the narrow street beneath the win-\\ndows, from which safe elevation their victims placidly\\nregarded them but the officials of the hotel, considering\\nthe demonstration a little too popular, rushed to disperse\\nthe mob. An active waiter, armed with a napkin and a\\nlarge carriage-whip, did his best but the incorrigible little\\nanimals retreated for the moment, only to take up a more\\nsecure position the next. Then the military were called\\nout, and one infantry soldier gesticulated and shrieked at\\nthe boys, who made faces at him in return, till seizing his\\nsword (in its sheath), with both hands he made a desperate\\ncharge, and the mothers at that moment coming to his\\nassistance, turned the enemy by a flank movement. A\\nsmall creature was captured, and chastized then and there,\\nand a general stampede followed. One persistent girl\\nwith a big baby alone held her ground, and I think we\\nmay consider it was a drawn battle between her and the\\nmilitary.\\nWe were early the next morning, breakfasting at seven,\\nand making a good start before any of our companions of\\nthe road were moving. Our stage was to be a longer one\\nthan usual, and we were all in good heart for the work.\\nThe weather was glorious, the colouring of sea and distant\\nhills radiantly beautiful in its varying tintings of green and\\nblue, pink and violet, with snowy summits rising at times\\nover the nearer ranges on our left, and Genoa with its", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0434.jp2"}, "435": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0435.jp2"}, "436": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0436.jp2"}, "437": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 297\\nforts and lighthouse growing ever more and more distinct\\nout of the purple and grey haze that shaped itself into\\nfar-away hills resting on the water.\\nOur road led, by a gradual climb, and then by a steep\\ndescent, sometimes steady, sometimes precipitous, along\\nthe edge of the rock. Always, nearer or farther below\\nus, the waves fretted against the stones, and here and\\nthere a landslip showed where the road had given way,\\nor it turned suddenly, almost at an acute angle, and one\\ncould look down an infinite depth with no foreground of\\nprotecting wall or fence to break the view\\nAs we were quietly walking up a long hill, a dis-\\ntant sound came to us which acted magically on our\\ncocker, a noise of horses feet and of one driving fu-\\nriously. Bassetti drew his reins together, stood up in his\\nseat, and gave one long anxious look behind then shook\\nhis ribbons eagerly, cried in an agony of appeal to his\\nhorses, and settled down to his work. The good beasts\\nperfectly understood his feelings, which was more than\\nwe did at the moment, and rose to the occasion there\\nwas no hanging back about any of them, in three minutes\\nthey had gained the top of the hill, and were going down\\nthe slope as fast as they could lay legs to the ground\\nand there round a corner, almost on top of us, came\\nthe great black and yellow diligence, and we understood\\nit all, with a half shiver of terror: for these southern\\nfellows are utterly reckless when their passions are", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0437.jp2"}, "438": {"fulltext": "298 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nroused, and between Carlo and the diligence driver it was\\ncombat a outrance. Knowing it was useless to remon-\\nstrate, and dangerous even to speak, our father held his\\npeace and waited, and the other occupant of the coupe\\nconfesses to a quiver of alarm, and an anxious watching\\nof each fresh piece of road that came into view, for at the\\nheadlong speed at which we were going, it would have\\nbeen utterly impossible to have pulled up the horses sud-\\ndenly, and had we encountered any great waggons on the\\nroad, or other cart or carriage, there must have been a\\nhorrible smash, and the big diligence would have fallen\\non top of us It was certainly a mad gallop, down hill\\non such a road, at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, but\\nit was a wonderful sight to see The way our cocker\\nturned the corners, thundering down the slopes, one\\nwheel almost on its side as we edged round a sharp rock,\\nthe carriage swaying as though it must topple over, the\\nwheels spinning over the stones and the great whip\\ncracking and whistling to the echoes, the thud thud of\\nthe pursuing feet, the wind that blew against us, the\\ndanger that gave an edge to our enjoyment, the terror\\nof what was coming, and the pleasure in our success,\\nmade that half-hour on the Corniche a bit of travel-\\nling experience not soon to be forgotten It is an un-\\ncertain way of seeing the shores of the Mediterranean,\\nbut that race was to us a combination of delights one\\ndoes not often secure in this matter-of-fact world, and I", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0438.jp2"}, "439": {"fulltext": "0t }U T0S( J a.\u00c2\u00ab~. a ln", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0439.jp2"}, "440": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0440.jp2"}, "441": {"fulltext": "A TALE OF THE ROAD. 299\\nonly hope the travellers in the diligence enjoyed it as\\nheartily. Of the feelings of their driver we know nothing,\\nas of course we won in a canter when we once reached\\nthe level, and dashing through the little town of Lanona,\\nwhere his stage ended, we left our rivals far behind.\\nI must not linger to describe one midday halt, and the\\nqueer cookery that accompanied it, or our more steady-\\ngoing progress during the afternoon, towards Savona with\\nits pleasant hotel and flowery garden, and the broad quays\\nwhere vessels are filling and unloading all day long, and\\npiles of lemons, bags of corn, and crates of bottles and\\nearthenware crowd the pavement of the moon, very faint\\nand young as yet, that shone upon the sea of our drive\\nto Pegli through a southern land of rich cultivation,\\nvines and chestnuts, lemon and orange orchards, and other\\ngreen things pleasant to the eyes and good for food of\\nthe blind beggars who always saw the exact number of\\npeople there were to beg from, and who appealed to each\\nof the beggar with one arm, who had a second gracefully\\nbut partially concealed by a piece of drapery of more\\nfishing villages, and of people going and coming throng-\\ningly upon the road as we neared Grenoa.\\nThere is little space left in which to tell of our visit\\nto the Villa Palavacini, whose princely owner makes\\nstrangers welcome where, in the language of the ancient\\npoets, nature and art go hand in hand, and where accord-\\ningly there are all the sweetest flowers that ever bloom", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0441.jp2"}, "442": {"fulltext": "300 A TALE OF THE ROAD.\\nin the sunshine, classical temples, fountains, Chinese\\npagodas, stalactite caves, a lake, islands, temples, a swing,\\nsecret jets d eaw that play upon the unwary, a merry-\\ngo-round with a wooden pony for the Marchese, and a\\nchar a banc for the Marchesa, and three more steeds, and\\nthree more carriages, for the Palavacini guests a mag-\\nnificent palace; and a terrace, standing on which one\\nlooks across at Grenoa as she lies with her fair arms out-\\nstretched, smiling at the sea.\\nThere is no time to tell of the dusty way that led to\\nher, or how we passed under the guarded gateway and\\ntrotted merrily through the streets; how we paused in\\nthe Piazza della Annunziata and had our leaders taken\\noff, the angles of Genoese streets being somewhat sharper\\neven than those of the Corniche, and their width about\\nthree yards across how in a dark alley we did in a\\nmanner come to grief, and make an ignominious end of\\nour triumphant progress, for at the very corner of the\\nAlbergo Keale the near horse slipped and stumbled, and in\\nits fall knocked over its companion how we looked down\\non the debris from our vast elevation, descending at length\\nliterally into the arms of the Genoese how the good steeds\\npicked themselves up again, and were none the worse, but\\nready as ever for a fresh scamper on the old road, where\\nwe would hope many of our countrymen may be fortunate\\nenough to fall in with those five clever little horses, and\\nour worthy Carlo Bassetti of Arona.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0442.jp2"}, "443": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEEBING IN TYEOL.\\nAPPENDIX,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0443.jp2"}, "444": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0444.jp2"}, "445": {"fulltext": "APPENDIX.\\nMOUNTAINEERING IN TYEOL.\\nTTAVINGr obtained a tolerably complete knowledge of\\nTyrol during five consecutive visits to different parts\\nof that country, in 1863-4-5-6-7, and being inclined to\\nthink that the exquisite beauty of its scenery, and the\\nvery moderate cost of travel will lead to its being visited\\nevery year by an increasing number of our countrymen,\\nI venture to offer, for the information of other moun-\\ntaineers, a sketch of an eight weeks tour which I believe\\nwill be found to embrace the chief objects of interest\\nthroughout the principal mountain groups. I assume\\nthat the Tyrol is entered at Landeck in the upper Inn\\nThai, which may be reached via the Vorarlberg either\\nfrom Zurich or Constance, in about three days from\\nLondon whilst in returning from Bormio a great variety\\nof interesting routes offer themselves to the traveller s\\nchoice.\\n1. Thursday. From Landeck by the Finstermiinz Pass to\\n(a) Eeschen and the highest available quarters in the Langtau-\\nferer Thai, or (b) to Mais and the chalets at the head of the\\nMatscher Thai.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0445.jp2"}, "446": {"fulltext": "304 MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL.\\n2. To Vent (or Fend) in the Oetzthal by (a) the Langtau-\\nferer Joch, or (b) the Matscher (Hintereis) Joch, ascending, in\\nthe first case, the Langtauferer Spitz, and, in the second, the\\nWeisskugel en route.\\n3. Ascend the Wildspitz.\\n*4. At Vent, and stroll down to Solden in the afternoon.\\n5. By the Winacher Thai and Pfaffen Ferner to the summit\\nof the Schneide or Zuckerhiitl, and then by the Pfaffen Joch and\\nSulzenau Glacier to Graba and Neustift in the Stubay Thai,\\nwhence Schonberg and perhaps Innsbruck may be reached the\\nsame night.\\n6. To, and at Innsbruck.\\n7. At Innsbruck, and by rail to Jenbach, and voiture to Zell\\nin the Ziller Thai.\\n8. Drive to Mayrhofen, and thence proceed up the Zemm\\nand Zamser Thai to the chalets at the entrance of the Horpinger\\nThai.\\n9. Ascend the Hoch Mosele Spitz, and proceed by the Mosele\\nFerner and Muhlwalder Thai to Taufers thence drive up the\\nAhren Thai to Steinhaus, or farther if time will permit.\\n10. By the Vord, or Hint Thorl, to Pregraten in the Virgen\\nThai.\\n*11. At Pregraten, and thence by the Dorfer Thai to the\\nJohanns Hiitte near the foot of the Dorfer Kees.\\n12. Ascend the Gross Venediger, and descend by the Unter-\\nsulzbach Kees and Thai to Neukirchen in the Pinzgau thence\\ndrive to Mittersill.\\n13. Drive to Zell-am-See and Saalfelden (a) or Frohnwies (b).\\n14. Cross (a) the Steinernes Meer to Konigssee and Berchtes-\\ngaden, or (b) proceed to the same place by the HirschbiAhel Pass\\nand Ramsau.\\n15. At Berchtesgaden.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0446.jp2"}, "447": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL. 305\\n16. Ascend the Jenner Spitz cross the Torrener Joch to Gol-\\nling and thence drive to Salzburg via Hallein.\\n17. Drive to Ischl via St. Gilgen and the Wolfgang See, or\\nquit the carriage at St. Gilgen and ascend the Schafberg to sleep,\\nproceeding to Ischl the next morning.\\n*18. At Ischl.\\n19. Descend the Traun by boat to Ebensee, and then take the\\nsteamer to Gmunden on the Traun See, returning in the same way,\\nor by carriage to Ebensee, and driving back to Ischl, whence Alt-\\nAussee may be reached by voiture the same evening via Laufen.\\n20. Visit Aussee and the Grundl See, and then proceed to\\nHallstadt via Ober Traun and the Hallstadter See.\\n21. Visit the Eudolfsthurm, and returning to the village, pro-\\nceed to the Wiesen Alp (Almhiitte) to sleep.\\n22. Ascend the Dachstein and descend {a) by the Hoch\\nGjaidstein Joch and Schladminger Kees to Eamsau and Schlad-\\nming in the Enns Thai, or (b) to Hinter Gosau.\\n23. Drive (a) to Eadstadt, St. Johann (im Pongau), and Lend\\nor (b) over Pass Gschiitt to Abtenau and Golling, and thence to\\nWerfen, St. Johann, and Lend, if time permits.\\n24. To Wildbad Gastein, per voiture in either case.\\n*25. At Wildbad Gastein.\\n26. Cross the Stanzer Scharte to Bucheben in the Eauriser\\nThai, and then the Schutterriedl to St. Wolfgang and Ferleiten\\nin the Fusch Thai.\\n27. Cross (a) the Pfandl Scharte, or (b) the Bockkar Scharte,\\nto Heiligenblut in the Moll Thai, in the latter case ascending the\\nBreit Kopf. The first is the easier, but the second is by far the\\nfiner route.\\n28. At Heiligenblut, and to the Leiter Hiitte to sleep.\\n29. Ascend the Gross Glockner, descend to Kals, and proceed-\\ning to Huben, drive thence to Lienz.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0447.jp2"}, "448": {"fulltext": "306 MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL.\\n30. Drive to Sillian and Inichen, and over the Ampezzo Pass\\nto Cortina and S. Yito.\\n31. Ascend the Antelao via the Forcella Piccola, and return-\\ning to the Pass descend by the Val Oten to Calalzo and Pieve di\\nCadore or Tai.\\n*32. At Cadore or Tai, and in the afternoon to Forno di Zoldo\\nin Val di Zoldo.\\n33. Cross Passo Coldai (ascending Monte Civita en route to\\nAlleghe and Caprile.\\n34. Visit the gorge of Sottoguda in Val Pettorina, and then,\\ncrossing due S. to Forno di Canale by a pass between Monte\\nPezza and Monte Alto, proceed up the valley to Gares.\\n35. Ascend the Palle di S. Martino (if possible) or Cimon\\ndell a Pala by the Valle delle Comelle, and returning to Gares,\\ncross the Gesurette Pass to the Valle di S. Lucano and Agordo.\\n36. To Caprile up the Cordevole Valley via Cencenighe and the\\nLago d Alleghe, and thence on to Pieve by the Livinallongo Thai.\\n37. Cross via the summit of the Monte Prelungei (Zissa Berg\\nto Corfara in the Gader Thai, and from thence proceed up the\\nvalley to the Grodner Jbchl, and, skirting the head of the Grodner\\nThai, traverse the Sella Pass to Campidello in Val Fassa (Fleim-\\nser Thai). Ascend the valley to Alba or Penia, or even some\\nhigher sleeping-quarters if time permits.\\n38. Ascend the Marmolata and return to Campidello.\\n*39. At Campidello.\\n40. Via the Duron Pass and over the summit of the Schlern to\\nBad Ratzes. Thence via Vols to Steg in the Eisack Thai, and\\nto Botzen per voiture.\\n41. At Botzen, and per rail to Trent and Eoveredo, and thence\\nto Riva at the head of the Lago di Garda per voiture.\\n42. Drive up the Val di Sarca to Alle Sarche, and thence walk\\nto Molveno.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0448.jp2"}, "449": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN TTEOL. 307\\n43. Cross by the Bocca di Brenta (ascending the Cima Tosa\\non the \u00e2\u0080\u00a2way), to Pinzolo in Val Eendena.\\n44. At Pinzolo and to the Bedole Malga in Val di Genova.\\n45. Ascend the Adamello and return (a) to the Bedole chalet,\\nor (b) to Pinzolo.\\n*46. At (a) the Bedole Alp or (b) Pinzolo; in the latter case\\nproceeding in the evening to the Nardis Alp to sleep.\\n47. Proceed (a) to the summit of the Cercen Pass, thence\\nascend the Presanella, and returning to the col drop down\\non the N. side to Vermiglio, Fosine, and the Bagni di Pejo,\\nin Yal di Sole. Or (h) ascend the Presanella from the Nardis\\nAlp by the Glacier of the same name, and descending by the\\nopposite arete upon the Cercen Pass, proceed thence as already\\nsuggested (a).\\n48. By Yal del Monte and the Glacier at the head of the Val\\nPiana (or Val Umbrina to the ridge running S.W. from the\\nPizzo della Mare, ascend the latter, and returning to the col,\\ntraverse the neve of the Gavia Glacier to the summit of the\\nPizzo Tresero, whence Sta Catarina may be reached very directly\\nvia the Tresero Alp.\\n49. At Sta Catarina.\\n50. At Sta Catarina ascend Monte Confinale.\\n51. Cross the Passo di Forno to the highest chalets in the Val\\ndella Mare, perhaps ascending the Vios, or Viozzi, Spitz en route.\\n52. By the Glacier of La Mare to the saddle between the two\\nhighest summits of the Monte Cevedale or Fiirkeli (the Zufall\\nSpitz of the maps of Lombardy and Tyrol), ascend the latter,\\nand dropping down in a N. direction upon the Cevedale Pass,\\nand skirting the head of the Langenferner (which descends into\\nthe Martell Thai) to the Janiger Scharte, traverse the latter to\\nGampenhbfe and St. Gertrud in the Sulden Thai via the Sulden\\nGlacier.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0449.jp2"}, "450": {"fulltext": "308 MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL.\\n*53. At St. Gertrud.\\n54. Ascend the Orteler Spitz and descend by the Trafoi route\\nto Trafoi.\\n55. At Trafoi drive to Gomagoi in the afternoon, and stroll\\nup the Sulden Thai to St. Gertrud and Gampenhofe.\\n56. Cross the Pass between the Orteler Spitz and Klein Zebru,\\nascend the latter, and then proceeding to the Orteler Joch, tra-\\nverse the Unterer Trafoiferner to the Heiligen Drei Brunnen and\\nTrafoi (via the Bergl or, keeping away to the left, cross the\\nlower portion of the Ober Trafoiferner and gain the Stelvio road\\nby the slopes of the Madatsch Spitz.\\n57. Cross the Stelvio to Bormio per voiture or on foot, and if\\ndesired, Tirano may easily be reached the same night, and Lon-\\ndon in four or five days, either via Chiavenna and the Spliigen,\\nor by the Bernina, St. Moritz, and the Julier or Albula, to Chur\\nand Zurich.\\nThe following suggestions on the subject of maps, guide-\\nbooks, and guides, in connection with the foregoing route,\\nmay be found serviceable.\\nMAPS.\\nFor Tyrol in general.\\n1. Mayr s Karte von Tirol. Munich; or,\\n2. Mayr s Atlas der Alpenlander, sheets 2, 3, 5, and perhaps 6.\\nFor days 1-4.\\n3. Special Karte der Oetzthaler Alpen, by K. von Sonklar\\nand H. Berghaus. Gotha, Perthes.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0450.jp2"}, "451": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL. 309\\nFor clays 5 and 6.\\n4. Special Karte der Stubaier Gebirgsgruppe, by L. Pfaundler.\\nInnsbruck, Wagner.\\nOr (less detailed) for days 1-6.\\n5. General Quartiermeister-Stab, Karte der gefursteten Graf-\\nschaft Tirol etc., T 4 4V00 sheets 7 and 8.\\nFor days 7-12.\\nThe same, sheet 9.\\nFor days 12-16.\\nMayr 1 or 2 will probably suffice.\\nFor days 17-26.\\nThe same.\\nOr for days 17-22.\\n6. Special Karte des Salzkammergutes, by J. J. Pauliny,\\nT4 40 Vienna, Lechner.\\nFor days 27-29.\\n7. The map of the neighbourhood of the Gross Glockner, by\\nKeil, appended to Dr. von Ruthner s Aus der Tauern,\\nis by far the best.\\nFor days 30-36.\\nMayr 1 or 2 or\\n8. Topographische Karte des Lombardisch-Venetianischen Ko-\\nnigreichs, -goioo- Milan, 1833-8. Sheets F. 1 and 2.\\nFor days 37-41.\\nMayr 1 or 2 will probably suffice.\\nFor days 42-48.\\nNo. 5, sheets 16 and 19, for general purposes, and, for\\ndetails of 44-47,", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0451.jp2"}, "452": {"fulltext": "310 MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL.\\n9. Die Adamello-Presanella Alpen, by J. Payer, -^5^^.\\nGotha, Perthes. (Appended to a paper by Lieutenant\\nPayer in Petermann s Mittheilungen Erganzungsheft,\\nNo. 17. November 1865. Gotha, Perthes.)\\nFor days 48-51.\\nNo. 8, sheets D. 1 and 2, and\\n10. A map accompanying a paper by F. F. Tuckett in the Al-\\npine Journal for December 1864 (vol. i. p. 384), with\\ncorrections in the number for September 1865 (vol. ii.\\npp. 145-7), and that for September 1866 (vol. ii. pp.\\n352-7).\\nFor days 51-57.\\nNo. 5, sheet 16, together with\\n11. The map accompanying Die Ortler Alpen (Sulden Gebiet\\nund Monte Cevedale), and Die westlichen Ortler- Alpen\\n(Trafoier Gebiet), by Lieutenant J. Payer. Peter-\\nmann s Mittheilungen, Erganzungsheft, No. 18 and\\n23, 1867-8. Gotha, Perthes.\\nGUIDE-BOOKS, ETC.\\nMurray s Southern Germany.\\nKnapsack Guide to Tyrol.\\nSchaubach s Deutschen Alpen, 2nd edition. Jena, From-\\nmann. Vol. iii. (Salzburg, Salzkammergut, c). Vol. iv.\\n(Central and Southern Tyrol).\\nThe Dolomite Mountains, by Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill\\n(a most charming book). Longmans Co.\\nGuide to the Central Alps, by J. Ball.\\n1 Guide to the Eastern Alps, by J. Ball.\\n1 Jahrbuch des Oesterreichischen Alpine-Vereines (five\\nvolumes of which have already been published).", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0452.jp2"}, "453": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL. 311\\nThe Alpine Journal (of which three volumes have appeared)\\nalso contains scattered papers and notices on various por-\\ntions of the Austrian Alps.\\nGUIDES.\\n1. Matscher Thai. The Jager at Matsch.\\n2. Langtauferer Thai. Bias in Mallag.\\n3. Yent (Oetzthal). Cyprian Granbichler.\\n4. Mavrhofen (Ziller-Thal). Forster Hochleitner also Samer\\n(vulgb Josele) at Ginzling, and Bartl and Jackl, either\\nthere or at Breitlechner.\\n5. Pregraten (Virgen Thai). The Brothers Steiner, and the\\nsmith of Pregraten.\\n6. Berchtesgaden. Josef Grafl and his brothers, c.\\n7. Hallstadt. Wallner, Loydl, Stocker, and Zauner.\\n8. Fusch. Anton Hiitter.\\n9. Heiligenblut. Wallner, B. and C. Lackner, Breimisch, Veit\\nBauerle, Granegger, Eder.\\n10. S. Vito. The Cacciatore Ossi.\\n11. Caprile. Pellegrino Pellegrini of Rocca, and for the Mar-\\nmolata the brothers Dimaj of Ampezzo.\\n12. Campidello(ValFassa). J. B. Bernard, Waldaufseher.\\n13. Molveno. Bonifazio Nicolosi.\\n14. Pinzolo. Forster Suda\\n15. Cogolo. Binder, Framba, and Domenico Venere.\\n16. Sulden Thai. Pinggera of Sulden, or Janiger of Maria\\nSchmelz in the IMartell Thai.\\nu 2", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0453.jp2"}, "454": {"fulltext": "312 MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL.\\nOur route of 1866 is given below under the idea that it\\nmay prove useful to some inexperienced travellers who\\nwish to explore those parts of Tyrol that are easily acces-\\nsible and well adapted for ladies. It might be condensed\\nin many ways and with advantage, as in our case it had\\nto be modified from time to time to suit the weather and\\nthe mountaineering plans of some of the party.\\n1. Paris to Basle.\\n2. Basle to Schaffhausen.\\n3. iScliaffhausen to Constance and Lindau, and thence to Im-\\nmenstadt by rail and to Hindelang by carriage.\\n4. Hindelang to Lermos by carriage.\\n5. Lermos to Nassereit and Innsbruck by carriage. Hotel\\nd Autriche, excellent.\\n6-7. At Innsbruck.\\n8. By rail to Worgl, thence post to Waidring.\\n9. Waidring to Lofer, Keichenhall, and Berchtesgaden by car-\\nriage. Hotel zum Watzmann, good.\\n10. To Kbnigs-See and back, c.\\n11. To Salzburg by carriage. Hotel Nelhok, very good.\\n12. To Ischl by carriage. Hotel Goldenes Kreuz, excellent.\\n13. At Ischl. Excursionized.\\n14. At Ischl.\\n15. To Aussee and its lakes, by carriage.\\n16. To Hallstadt and return to Ischl. This is an easy excursion\\nto and from Ischl direct.\\n17. To Ebensee and Gmunden, to and from Ischl by carriage, or\\nboat down the Traun.\\n18. From Ischl to Salzburg. The Schafberg, 5,703 feet, may be\\nascended en route the view is very line, and there is an\\ninn on the summit.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0454.jp2"}, "455": {"fulltext": "MOUNTAINEERING IN TYROL. 313\\n19. To Berchtesgaden by carriage.\\n20, 21, 22. At Berchtesgaden and to the Konigs-See and Wildbach\\nKlamm a wonderful cascade under the rocks.\\n23. From Berchtesgaden toZell am See by carriage, 12 hours over\\nHirschbiihel Pass.\\n24. To Krirnml, carriage, 12 hours including halts.\\n25. Krirnml, inn rough but clean, to Gerlos on horseback, 4 hours\\non to Zell in Ziller-Thal in bergwagen, 4 hours.\\n26. At Zell and to Karlsteg and back, carriage and horseback.\\n27. From Zell to Jenbach by carriage, and rail to Innsbruck.\\n28. At Innsbruck.\\n29. Innsbruck to Zirl, Telfs, and Imst, carriage, 11-J hours.\\n30. Imst to Landeck and Finstermiinz, 12 hours, carriage.\\n31. Hof Finstermiinz to Nauders and Zernetz, 12 hours by\\ncarriage.\\n32. To Pontresina by carriage.\\n33. At Pontresina, Gredig s hotel, good.\\n34. Ditto, and in bergwagen to Sils Maria; good cookery at the\\nAlpen Eose.\\n35. Ditto. Service at St. Moritz.\\n36. Ditto, to the Roseg Glacier.\\n37. Ditto, to the top of the Bernina Pass.\\n38. Ditto to the Morteratsch Glacier.\\n39. Ditto.\\n40. Ditto. Ascended the Muoters.\\n41. Ditto.\\n42. Ditto. Service at St. Moritz.\\n43. Ditto. Ascended the Piz Languard. Walther, Flury, and\\nJenni are the principal guides.\\n44. To Samaden and over the Julier Pass to Cliur, 12 hours by\\ndiligence.\\n45. Chur to Zurich by rail.\\n46. Zurich to Basle and through the night to Paris.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0455.jp2"}, "456": {"fulltext": "LONDON: PRINTED BY\\nSPOTTISWOODK AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUAT.B\\nAND PARLIAMENT STREET", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0456.jp2"}, "457": {"fulltext": "HOW WE SPENT THE SUMMER\\nOR,\\nA VOYAGE EN ZIGZAG\\nWITH SOME MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB.\\n4 The little bits of landscape scenery the picturesque cottages and chalets\\nthe mountain passes and lake cities are the clever jottings of a master hand.\\nLooking at the book as the production of an amateur artist, to call it\\nsimply clever is not giving it the meed of praise it deserves. Every page\\nshows a full appreciation of the humorous and pathetic Reader.\\nIt consists of a considerable number of clever and spirited little drawings\\nrapidly made by a hand of no mean skill. Athenaeum.\\nA series of very clever and amusing sketches. Morning Post.\\nSketches like those of the pretty little Voyage en Zigzag How we\\nSpent the Summer published by Longman which are full of charming\\nhumour, character, and freshness of expression. From the Cestus of Aglaia,\\nby J. Rtjskin. Art Journal.\\n1 This book is an unmixed delight, except, of course, that it has a last page.\\nThere is no class of tourists to which it does not appeal.\\nPall Mall Gazette.\\nLondon LONGMANS and CO. Paternoster Row.\\nBEATEN TRACKS;\\nOR,\\nPEN AND PENCIL SKETCHES IN ITALY.\\nThe illustrations are in the same style as those of a former work, full of\\nlife and fire and spirit, and the letterpress is just the kind of jotting one would\\nanticipate from the pen of the author of those clever sketches. Reader.\\n1 The charming pages of the Beaten Tracks, or Pen and Pencil Sketches in\\nItaly carry us once more along the ever-memorable Corniche, where there are\\nno disagreeables, and where a beneficent bien-etre makes the veriest trifle en-\\njoyable. Something of course depends on the skill of the writer something on\\nthe pleasant memories of the reader combined, these give a rare charm to\\nletters written about the ordinary incidents of a very well-known tour. With\\npencil as well as pen the traveller vividly recalls the scenes. Her pen is grace-\\nful, her pencil graphic Her letters are real letters, neither marred with\\naffectation nor made stilted with false eloquence.\\nFortnightly Review Causeries by the Ed. (Lewes).\\nA series of lively, clever sketches, by a lady who is evidently more desirous\\nof giving an accurate account of the impressions made upon her by persons,\\nplaces, and other objects, than of conforming to the orthodox canons of Murray.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0457.jp2"}, "458": {"fulltext": "Beaten Tracks.\\nIt is quite a novelty to meet with a tourist who does not in any form of words\\nreproduce the guide-books. What they have well described she leaves alone\\nwhat has been passed over by them in the realms of art, she notices, not with\\nthe cant of connoisseurship, but in the fresh natural language of real feeling.\\nwith numerous engravings from clever pen and ink sketches.\\nThe Daily News.\\nThe book is the best of company for any who are in good holiday mood.\\nThere are whimsical studies of life, sly dashes of caricature, pleasant recollec-\\ntions of old travelling experience, and foreign scenes conjured up by a few\\nskilful touches. The Examiner.\\nThe author of A Voyage en Zigzag has in this volume sustained her\\nreputation as a writer and an artist. The letters of which the volume consists\\nare replete with spirited sketches, often amusing, often pathetic, but always\\ninteresting. The Morning Post.\\nThere are some books we do not wish to see the end of, and among these we\\nmay surely class one which illustrates how all-essential to a traveller is the\\neye to see far more than mere novelty of route or country or startling adven-\\nture. Hundreds of English travellers have been over the ground before, yet\\nthis quick-eyed lady, with a turn for charming expression, has managed to tell\\na great deal that is new to most concerning these beaten tracks, and to throw\\nsuch a charm of her own personality into her tale of what is old, that few more\\ngenial or pleasant volumes could be found. The Globe.\\n1 A stirring time in Italy provided good material for the keen powers of ob-\\nservation and the pleasant pen, now of D. and now of E The present\\nstate of Florence is graphically described in this very pleasant and entertaining\\nbook. Pall Mall Gazette.\\nA pretty, pleasant, sparkling book, sketched by the wayside, and devoted\\nchiefly to flowers, sunshine, gossip, pictures, and scenery.\\nThe London Review.\\nBeaten Tracks is a truly charming book. Court Journal.\\nA bright, cheerful, and amusing series of letters describing a tour made\\nthrough France and Lombardy The volume is profusely illustrated by\\na number of facile etchings they are in excellent harmony with the letters\\nthemselves, and display exactly that more than average accomplishment which\\nspeaks in every page of them. The whole correspondence is singularly natural\\nand unpretending. Westminster Review.\\nA charming book Sketches of rare pungency and spirit. Were\\nthese drawings the work of a professional artist, they would deserve high\\npraise as the wayside studies of two English girls they are very remarkable.\\nThe book is written with no affectation or pretence.\\nManchester Guardian.\\nA very entertaining book. Illustrated London News.\\n1 Beaten Tracks, both in its writing, and its very clever fac-similes from\\nthe sketch ers rough memoranda, is a very good book of its kind It is\\nfull of observation of the characteristic facts and sights which strike an\\nEnglishman in the most frequented foreign scenes, and by pen and pencil\\nrecalls them in their real appearances. Guardian.\\nLondon: LONGMANS and CO. Paternoster Row.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0458.jp2"}, "459": {"fulltext": "PICTURES IN TYROL\\nAND ELSEWHERE.\\nA witty and agreeable volume We are rather glad of any\\nopportunity of meeting our old friend the author of A Voyage en Zigzag.\\nAnd here we have the same racy pencil, with the charming piquant studies of\\nthe Anglais, giving himself up to every conceivable and inconceivable form of\\nindependent adventure on mountain and pass, relieved by clear and sparkling\\nsketches of the maimers and customs of the barbarous folk who dwell on the\\nContinent of Europe, which bring to shame the puppet writer of travels.\\nSaturday Review.\\n4 The book which has decoyed us in imagination from the cold wintry slush\\nof England to the crisp and sunny snow of the Tyrol mountains, is interesting\\nand amusing. The pictures are a marked improvement on those in the Voy-\\nage en Zigzag, although the latter certainly contained some charming and\\nsuggestive sketches. It is very pleasant to journey with the travellers\\nthrough their cheerful encounterings of all that can be called drawbacks.\\nPall Mall Gazette.\\n1 A thoroughly delightful book. Telling simply and vividly what she has\\nseen, the clever authoress furnishes pictures in writing, to which her graceful\\nsketches, sometimes humorous and always natural, are a welcome supplement.\\nThe Examinee.\\nA very charming book is this. It is full of interesting information, abun-\\ndantly supplied with pleasing pictures of life and well furnished with incident.\\nThe illustrations are remarkably good slight, sketchy, and suggestive. Among\\nreadable books at this genial season, Pictures in Tyrol will be pre-eminent.\\nThe Globe.\\nA capital book. Morning Star.\\n1 An almost unique book It is impossible to tell in such space as is\\nhere at command how very charming is this book, which is illustrated by sixty\\npages of sketches transferred apparently line by line from the leaves in which\\nthey were first pencilled. Humorous and picturesque, artistic though erude,\\nthese lithographs convey a better idea of the Tyrol, its tourists, and its inhabi-\\ntants, than many volumes which pretend to more finish in their plates. We do\\nnot know whether the artist can paint, but he certainly can draw.\\nThe Standard.\\nAll who remember the graceful and womanly account of Italian travel,\\nBeaten Tracks, will be glad to meet the authoress again on Tyrolese ground.\\nThe unaffected good taste with which her party fraternised with the\\nsimple German peasantry, not only gives a delightful tone to her journal, but\\nreveals to those who can appreciate it, the true secret of enjoyment on such\\ntours The same facile pencil that lent such a charm to its predecessor,\\nhas filled the book with wayside sketches and cheerful incidents of travel.\\nWestminster Review.", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0459.jp2"}, "460": {"fulltext": "Pictures in Tyrol and Elsewhere.\\n1 The book before us is a rare specimen of excellence in the mystery of story-\\ntelling Altogether it is one of the most pleasant -volumes we have had\\nto deal with for a long time past. It is agreeable in its style, beautifully\\nsimple, and extremely picturesque. The drawings are exceedingly good, and\\nvery tastefully selected. They are just the sort of sketches which would be\\nmade by a talented amateur, afford graphic illustrations of the scenes they\\ndepict, and are very cleverly executed.\\nThe Press and St. James s Chronicle.\\nA volume as charming as it is novel. The Lady s Newspaper.\\nThis is a collection of trivial remarks and mild descriptions of incidents and\\nscenes such as everybody meets in Austrian Tyrol and its neighbourhood. It is\\nnot so useful as a guide-book, and, being trivial, is very hard to read. Numerous\\nlittle sketches of very unequal value accompany the text like it, they may\\ninterest the travellers whose adventures are described, but few others.\\nAthenjeum.\\nThis is a very pleasant book pleasant to read but exceedingly so to\\nthose who examine the many sketchy pictures it contains. They are slight\\netchings, full of character, with a good mixture of fun, with occasional glimpses\\nof quaint buildings and magnificent scenery. No. doubt an Amateur has\\nproduced them, but they are capital examples of art, well applied, for they\\nnot only gratify but interest. A most agreeable fellow-traveller the author\\nand artist must have been with close and sound yet generous observation,\\nobviously always in good humour with all he heard and saw, never snarling or\\nsneering with either pencil or pen. The Art Journal.\\nThe book abounds in picturesque and life-like sketches of Alpine scenery\\nand of German and Italian towns, and contains the record of many amusing\\nadventures in out-of-the-way places, told in an easy and agreeable style,\\nflavoured with a deal of humour. Daily News.\\nOne of the reader s pleasantest excursions was that made in company with\\nthe travellers en Zigzag, and another opportunity of the same kind is sure to\\nbe accepted with delight. In Tyrol and Elsewhere, the writer of those\\ncharming descriptive chapters, the artist who drew those matchless sketches, so\\nfull of truth, humour, fun, and freshness, must be the most acceptable of com-\\npanions. This volume is only superior to its predecessor inasmuch as there is\\nmore of it. Contemporary Review.\\nThis book is the very beau ideal of a tourist s companion. The Orb.\\nThe work under notice is a worthy successor of the Voyage en Zigzag\\nand Beaten Tracks, displaying equally with them great capacity of observa-\\ntion\u00e2\u0080\u0094not only of that which is remarkable but of that which is commonplace\\ndescriptive powers of a high order, an artistic appreciation of the beautiful\\nand picturesque, and a general sympathy with the excellence that is to be\\nfound in humble life. The style is easy, graceful, and winning, and the sketches\\nclever and spirited. Morning Post.\\nLondon: LONGMANS and CO. Paternoster Bow.", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0460.jp2"}, "461": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3599", "width": "2371", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0461.jp2"}, "462": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0462.jp2"}, "463": {"fulltext": "", "height": "3690", "width": "2629", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0463.jp2"}, "464": {"fulltext": ";:,!if\\nWW\\nHi\\n^1\\nI", "height": "3728", "width": "2651", "jp2-path": "picturesintyrol00tuck_0464.jp2"}}