Ml rlH Class_ Book__ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT I'm the Picayune Frog; Will you veiture a jog with ma? You may foot it, or ride; But a capital Guide I'll be I ^^^us^^^ BY THE ^/CAYO^^ THE PICAYUNE BUILDINGS, 326 & 328— Camp Street— 326 & 328. New Orleans, La. THEI m' O-TJIIDE -TO- W\KW (D0SD=1/^K1 [p[^D©[E^ □ □ □ \FW\E (BlE^Yi right, 1896, by ^<..^^^^^'^^ / Copy I 3SriCHCOLSOI^ Health ;of the City Hotel Dien 22 Howard Library 21 How to Get About 5 .Tack(?on Monument 12 .Jesuits' Church 18 Jockey Club 2S La Variete Club 28 Lee Monument ^■' Page. Levee 34 Margaret Monument 13 Masonic Temple 24 Messiah Church 18 Metairie Cemetery 33 Methodist Church, Carondelet Street. . 18 Milneburg 3* Mortuary Sculptures 13 Napoleon House 11 Negro Universities 23 Odd Fellows' Hall 27 Old Convent 23 Out-of-Town Excursions 37 Pere Antoine 11 Place des Armes 1© Picayune Frog 39 Picayune Tier 3C Pickwick Club 28 Portia Club 27 Poydras Market . 34 Presbyterian Church, First 18 Soldiers' Home 22 Southern Athletic Club 23 Southern Yacht Club 28 Shooting and Fishing 40 Spanish Fort 30 St. Charles Theatre 27 St. John's Boat Club 28 St. Joseph's Church 16 St. Louis Cathedral 14 St. Louis Cemetery 31 St. Patrick's Church 16 St. Paul's Church 17 Statistics of the Guy 44 Street Cars, Up Town 6 Street Cars, Down Town 7 Street Cars. Across Town 7 Steam Lines ^ Sugar Sheds 36 Temple Sinai 18 Touro Intirmary 21 Tu!ane University 22 Trinity Church 17 Ursulines' Convent 23 Washington Artillei-y 26 Washington Stre«t Cemetery 32 West End 29 Woman's Club 27 Young Men's Gymnastic Club 28 FOR.E"V^OI^lD. Gentle reader— taking it for granted that you are gentle, as that is the sort -at people one likes to have dealings with, and that you are a reader, or you ■would have no business with this book — it is proposed to take you at ■once into our confidence, just as New Orleans receives you with open arms and heart, and whisper in your •ear the fact that to see our queer, love- Jy old city, one needs a guide, just as much as he does to get intelligently about Paris, or Venice, or Rome. New Orleans has a great deal in •common with those Old-World cities, much more so than any other city on ■this continent. It may not have so many treasures of art and architecture to boast of as they; but it has, what no other city of America has, a distinct flavor of ancient history about it. Al- though settled nearly a century later than New York or Boston, being first laid out under Sieur Bienville in 1718, it has not had, as they, a continuous Jiistoric development from its colonial conditions to its present state, but in- stead has undergone three tremendous convulsions, revolutionary changes, •each of which has left its mark on the character of the city, and each of which threw the preceding era into the •domain of ancient history.. French New Orleans, as it was founded by Bienville, and continued under bis suc- cessors, was a totally different place from Spanish New Orleans, as it was molded by the iron hand of Don Gen- •eral O'Reilly Into Spanish forms; and American New Orleans, developed after 5ts cession to the United States by Prance, is yet a wholly different place; and again the war of 1861-5 threw the wealthy and gay ante-bellum New Or- leans, the queen of Southern com- merce and the home of Southern aris- tocracy, into the irretrievable past. New Orleans has three distinct eras of history— history full -of fierce tragedy and of tender romance — and each has 5eft its marks indelibly stamped upon the place; each has on our streets its shrines of historic interest. Every frowning old building has its story to tell of love or war, of political plot or social intrigue. The visitor who would really see the ■€sty should have a guide to tell him. here Bienville camped on the bank of Bayou St. John when he first decided to convert the teeming swamp into a French metropolis, while the sibylline Indian hag prophesied, "The Great Spirit tells me that the time will come when, between the river and the lake, there will be as many dwellings for the white man as there are trees standing now. Ihe haunts of the red man are doomed, and faint recollec- tions and traditions concerning tha very existence 6f his race will float dimly over rhe memory of his succes- sors, as vague and obscure as the mist which shrouds on a winter morning tha bed of the Father of Waters." Ho should have a guide to point out to him the outlines of the city as it was origi- nally platted, and to rehearse the great j names famous in the city of those days; a guide to show him where the daring j revolutionists plotted their scheme for I freeing their land from the Spaniard, I and to name over the men who put the I Spanish governor on a ship and sent him back to his own country, while they made the first declaration of American Independence on American soil; a guide to — well, well, there is no such guide to be had. There is hardly a man in the city of New Orleans to- day who knows enough about her his- tory, and its names and places, to qualify him for the task; and those who do know it are too busy about something else. So, gentle reader, this little book is put into your hands to take the place of the guide as far as may be, with the hope that you may not find it altogether useless. One bit of advice may be given right here, which it is hoped that the gentle reader will take in good part, though, gratuitous advice has no right to ex- pect any such reception. Before you start out to see the city, read up a little on its history. You will find it very helpful. The limits of this pres- ent work forbid the introduction of history; but there are several quite complete works on the subject, and you may find them at no expense to yourself by taking the Prytania car and getting off at the Howard Library, at the corner of Camp and Howard. You will find there a very admirable collection of books, with all facilitie» for consulting them, polite and accom- modating attendants, and all that, and you will find in the librarian, Mr. William Beer, a most genial gentle- man, and one able to give you all the information that you may desire about the library, and a good many other things. SOMETHING ABOUT THE CITY. It does not take the stranger in New Orleans long to discover that the city has a distinctly defined heart, through which its life pulsates, and from which its arteries of trade and travel radiate; and that heart is Canal street. Here are found the principal retail stores, and on its lower end not a few great wholesale establish- ments; here all the street car lines center; here are the principal clubs, and here is the chief promenade of fashion and beauty. The old city, as its was originally laid out by its found- er, reached from Canal street north along the river to Esplanade avenue, and back from the river to Rampart street, so called from the fortification which originally occupied its site. The street is now a beautiful boulevard. This ancient part of the city is com- monly called "French Town," and is rich in historic associations and mem- ories. Here is the old Cathedral, with its quaint surroundings, one of the most interesting spots in America, which looks as though it might have been transported bodily from the heart of some European city of the middle ages; here is the old Spanish "Cabil- do," or Statehouse; the charming old Ursuline Convent, now used as the Archiepiscopal Palace; the French Market, and many more places of his- toric and social interest. The French quarter of the city has long ago spread far across Rampart street to the west, and reached below Esplanade avenue on the north; but the old city is emphatically "French Town." In it still reside many of the descendants of the original first fam- ilies of Louisiana, a number of them in reduced circumstances through the revolutions of fortune, but all of them tenacious of their high family traditions and of their social breeding. It may be remarked that nowhere in the United States, not even in Maryland and Virginia, is there a distinct so- ciety so entirely founded on birth and blood, and so independent of property, inherited or acquired, as in old French New Orleans. To the north of Esplanade avenue the city reaches some miles, a quar- ter chiefly inhabited by the poorer classes, to the Barracks (the military reservation occupied by a small garri- son of United States troops), the city abattoirs, and the historic field ot Chalmette, The visitor to the city would do well to fix fairly in his mind at the start the fact that in front of New Orleans the river flows almost directly north, so that, altliough the city is on the east bank of the river, the sun rises across the river; down the river is toward the north, while up the river is south. On the south side of Canal street is the American quarter, which has mostly grown up since the cession of Louisi- ana to the United States, in 1803. The first few tiers of blocks are de- voted almost wholly to business pur- poses. Near the river are the great wholesale houses, whose names are known and whose goods are sold to business men all over the South and West, and not a few in the North. Camp street is "newspaper row," with the Picayune's magnificent establish- ment, surrounded by the offices of the other newspapers. St. Charles street has theatres, hotels and retail shops, with railroad and telegraph offices, and many handsome houses above Laf.xyette Square. These were formerly the residences of the mer- chant princes, and arc now for the most part fashionable boarding-houses. Carondelet street, with its splendid Cotton Exchange and great office buildings, is the resort of brokers, bankers, nuctioneers, commission mer- chants, shipping agents, and lawyers in- numerable. Further up the river, near the levee, are railroad freight depots, warehouses, cotton yards and manufactories, with the humble residences of their swarm- ing employes; while the streets fur- ther toward "the woods," as far as South Rampart street, have many com- fortable residences. Above Jackson avenue, which runs back from the river, is the famous "Garden District," where palatial resi- dences arise in the midst of charming lawns and of perennial bowers of roses and other flowering plants. 'J'his is the home of the wealth and fashion of the city, and there is no more charming one to he found in any city of the land. Still above this is Audubon Park, with its many natural attractions; and then comas CarroUton, once a mere beautiful suburb, but now a section of the city, which, under the stimulus of the electric lines, is rapidly attracting to itself a large and wealthy popula- tion. HOW TO GET ABOUT. A ;;l;inoe at the map of tlje city will show that while it is laid out with little regard to the points of the com- pass, it is not an easy place to get lost in. The original city was laid off with military exactness by a skilled engineer, but its later accretions have grown up, a piece at a time, often following lines of travel which had become established by hap-hazard use, and laid off with reference to the con- venience of the people interested rather than to any symmetrical plan. It may be roughly stated that streets running across town are at right angles to the river, and those rnnuing up and down town are parallel to the river. As the river sweeps past the city in a great double curve, it results that most of the cross streets in the part of the city above Canal street converge from the levee toward a common center near the Canal street cemeteries, while below the old city they radiate from the river towards the "woods." This arrangement might prove ex- tremely confusing, but that Canal street forms a common focus, and St. Charles street, which, below Canal, is called Royal street, constitutes a main artery throu ronne to Howard avenue, to St. Charles avenue, to Napoleon avenue, to the river; returns by the same route. SOUTH RAMPART, DRYADES AND PETERS AVENUE LINE starts on Canal street, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Calliope, to Franklin, to Jackson, to Freret, to Louisiana avenue, to Dryades, to Pe- ters avenue, to Magazine; transfers for Audubon Park and Carollton; re- turns by Peters avenue to Dryades, to Dufossat, to Baronne, to Louisiana avenue, to Howard, to Jackson avenue, to Franklin, to Calliope, to Dryades, to Canal, at Clay Statue. CARONDELET AND UPPER CAMP LINE starts on Canal street, near the levee; runs by Canal to Ca- rondelet, to St. Andrew, to Brainard, to Louisiana avenue, to Camp, to Heary Clay avenue, to Magazine; transfers for Audubon Park and Car- rollton; returns by Henry Clay ave- nue to Coliseum, to Louisiana avenue, to Dryades, to Julia, to St. Charles, to Canal, to the levee. ANNUNCIATION LINE (VIA SOUTH PETERS STREET) starts on Canal at Camp street; runs by Canal to Tchoupitoulas, to Annuncia- tion, to Toledano, to Tchoupitoulas; transfers for Audubon Park; returns by Toledano to Chippewa, to Race, to Annunciation, to Delord, to South Pe- ters, to Canal, at Camp street. LINE BOTH UP AND DOWN TOWN. CLIO AND ERATO LINE starts at terminus on Magnolia, near Erato street; runs by Erato to Carondelet, crossing Canal to Bourbon, to Espla- nade, to Decatur, to Elysian Fields, to Southern Pacific Depot; returns by Elysian Fields to ■ Royal, crossing Canal to St. Charles, to Howard ave- nue, to Rampart (at Illinois Central Depot), to Clio, to Magnolia and terminus. DOWN TOWN LINES. LEVEE AND BARRACKS LINE starts on Canal street, opposite the United States Customhouse; runs by Canal to North Peters, to Enghien, to Chartres, to Poland, to Rampart; transfers for United States Barracks; returns by Poland to Royal, to En- ghien, to North Peters, to Canal. BROAD STREET LINE starts on Canal, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Dauphine, to Dumaine, to Broad, to Laharpe, to White; transfers for Fair Grounds; returns by Bayou to Broad, to Ursulines, to Burgundy, to Canal. BAYOU LINE starts on Canal, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Dau- phine, to Dumaine, to Grand Route St. John, to Sauvage, to Fair Grounds; returns by Sauvage to Grand Route St. John, to Bayou road, to Broad, to St. Peter, to Burgundy, to Canal. RAMPART AND DAUPHINE LINE starts on Canal, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Es- planade, to Dauphine, to Flood, to North Peters, to United States Bar- racks; returns by North Peters to Delery, to Dauphine, to Poland, to Rampart, to Canal, to Clay Statue. ESPLANADE LINE starts on Canal street, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Esplanade ave- nue, to Bayou St. John and Fair Grounds; returns by the same route. ESPLANADE AND FRENCH MARKET LINE starts on Canal street, at Clay Statue; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Esplanade avenue, to the levee; returns by the same route. VILLERB STREET LINE starts on Canal street, at the levee; runs by Canal to Villere, to Lafayette avenue, to St. Claude; returns by the same route. CANAL AND CLAIBORNE LINE starts on Canal street, at the levee; runs by Canal to Claiborne, to Elysian Fields, to Urquhart, to Lafayette ave- nue; returns by Goodchildren to Elys- ian Fields, to Claiborne, to Canal, to the levee. ACROSS TOWN LINES. CANAL AND CEMETERIES starts on Canal street, near the levee; runs by Canal to Metairie road, to Halfway House and Cemeteries; returns by the same route. TULANE AVENUE LINE starts on Canal street, near the levee; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Tulane ave- nue, to Rocheblave; returns by same route. GIROD STREET LINE starts on Front street, at Canal; runs by Front to Girod, to Liberty, to Poydras, to Claiborne, to Tulane avenue, to Roche- blave; returns by Tulane avenue to Claiborne, to Perdido, to Carroll, to Poydras, to Fulton, to Canal. FRENCH MARKET LINE starts on Decatur, corner Dumaine, by the French Market; runs by Decatur to Ursulines, to Burgundy; transfers to Broad Street and Bayou Lines; re- turns by Dumaine to Decatur. CANAL AND BAYOU BRIDGE LINE starts on Metairie road, at Canal street; runs by Metairie road to City Park and Bayou St. John, along Bayou St. John to Mulberry street; returns over the same route. STEAM LINES. CANAL, CEMETERIES AND WEST END LINE starts on Canal street, near Clay Statue; runs bj Canal to Metairle road, to West End; returns by same route. SPANISH FORT LINE starts on North Basin, at Canal; runs by North Basin and Bienville to Spanish Fort. PONTCHARTRAIN RAILROAD LINE starts on Elysian Fields street, near the levee; runs by Elysian Fields street to Milneburg, or "Old Lake." FERRIES. There are six steam ferries across the river, on all of which the fare is 5 cents. THE FIRST DISTRICT FERRY puns from Canal street to Algiers. THE SECOND DISTRICT FERRY runs from the French Market to Al- giers. THE THIRD DISTRICT FERRY runs from the Morgan Depot, Espla- nade avenue, to Algiers. THE FOURTH DISTRICT FER- RY runs from Jackson avenue to Gretna. THE SIXTH DISTRICT FERRY runs from Louisiana avenue to Har- vey's Canal. THE RICHARD STREET FER- RY runs from Richard street to Free- town. Besides these there are three licensed skiff ferries— one from Upperline street, one from Carrollton and one from the Barracks. TABLE OF DISTANCES. Miles. Along the river front, from the Barracks to city limits, above Carrollton, about 12 1-2 From head of Canal street to— Barracks Carrollton Metairie Ridge road West End From Clay Statue, up St Charles to — Lee Place Jackson street Napoleon avenue Audubon Park Carrollton From Canal street, up Maga- zine, to — Jackson avenue Louisiana avenue Napoleon avenue Audubon Park From Clay Statue, via Ram- part street, to— Esplanade avenue Northeastern Railroad Depot. . . . From Clay Statue, via Ram- part and Esplanade streets, to— Louisiana Jockey Club Width of Mississippi river, from bank at Jackson Square to Algiers Point 3.10 9.40 3.60 6.61 .70 1.47 2.93 4.15 4.70 1.70 2.54 3.30 4.84 .97 1.62 4.00 .42 ACCOMMODATIONS FOR VISITORS. New Orleans is well provided with the best of accommodations for visit- ors, and nowhere in the United States can they be so comfortable at so small a cost. From the days long before the war, when every considerable planter within four or five hundred miles of the city considered himself almost a resident, and made a visit of some weeks at least once in a year to dispose of his crops, lay in his sup- plies, purchase his servants, etc., New Orleans has been the residence of an enormous transient population, and has prepared for its entertainment. The hotels are numerous and com- fortable, many of them splendid in their appointments, and board by the day, week or month may be had in any of them at reasonable rates. Besides these, the are large num- bers of boarding-houses, where the prices are lower than the like accom- modations can be had for in any con- siderable city in the country. These are principally situated on Camp, Pry- tania, Carondelet, St. Charles and Ba- ronne streets. One of the most comfortable and in- dependent ways of living for the tran- sient visitor, who wants to spend his time sight-seeing, and does not care to be tied down to regular meal hours, or a given locality, is to take a fur- tiished room, which can be hired by the day, weeli or month, with excel- lent service, at very low figures, and to talie his meals at some of the nu- merous restaurants which abound in the business section and in the lower part of the city. In the most of these places the best cookery can be found, either French or American, and whether one prefers to order on the American or European plans, he will find living very cheap. It is a fact that a great many of the permanent residents of the city prefer to live in this way, as it is economical and re- lieves them of the petty cares of housekeeping. One can live very well on a couple of dollars a day. HEALTH OF NEW ORLEANS. A great many i>eople, especially Northerners, imagine that New Orleans is a very unhealthy place, and not a few in their pleasure excursions give it a wide berth, or make it but a hurried visit, for fear of malarial fevers and other diseases which they imagine lie in wait for the stranger here. Now the fact is the exact contrary, the death rate, except in times of epi- demics, is very low, compared with that of other large cities of the coun- try; while the death rate among the white citizens, who live with some ri- gard to sanitary conditions, is smallei than that of almost any place in the United States. The general average is raised by the mortality among the negroes, which is very high, not so much on account of the squalor in which many of them live, as on ac- count of their utter disregard of all the laws of health. "But how can New Orleans help being sickly, surrounded, as it is, on all sides by miles of swamp?" de- mands the visitor. The swamps are undeniable; but it must be remembered that these swamps are scarcely above tide level, and that every high tide in the Gulf floods them with salt water, in which malaria does not and cannot breed. They are brackish at all times, the whole earth under them being more or less impregnated with salt. Then the frequent and heavy rains (the an- nual rainfall being something like six feet) wash the city and the swamps clean of malaria, while the constant sunshine does a work of disinfection, whose value is not appreciated as it should be. Sunlight Is fatal to con- tagion, as every sanitarian knows. All those causes co-operate to make New Orleans one of the healthiest spots in the United States. Malarial disorders and typhoid fevers, those curses of cities, are rare, and the ex- cellent system of quarantine, which is rigidly enforced, with the perfect ar- rangements for disinfecting vessels coming into port, have since 187S served to bar yellow fever, once the dread annual scourge of the city, effectually from her people for many years. Another serious error under which strangers labor is that the heat of our city in the summer time is some- thing insupportable, and that even in the winter it is liable to be uncom- fortably warm. The fact is, as one may see by a glance at the thermometric reports of . the weather bureau in the daily Pica- yune, that New Orleans is often cooler during the heated term of midsummer than any other city of the country. It could scarcely be otherwise, with the great expanses of the Gulf of Mexico stretching away east and south and west of it. The temperature of the water of the Gulf averages be- tween 70 and 75 degrees both winter and summer, and while the winds blow from the water, as they almost always do, the weather can never get so very much hotter or colder than that. An occasional brl^ze from the north dur- ing the summer brings a wave of heat that drives the themometer to 90 de- grees or thereabouts, and the same north wind in the winter is responsible for all the cold that New Orleans ex- periences, seldom any very great amount, though unhappily enough, once every five or six years, to make the growing of oranges a precarious, busi- ness. POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. New Orleans is eminently, of all the cities of the country, a place with a history, and though the local history of the city, apart from that of Louisi- ana — the old Louisiana, which, it will be remembered, originally included the better part of the Mississippi valley — has never been written in full, and many of its most romantic and inter- esting passages remain involved in the obscurity of moldy manuscripts and original records, what of it is known to the world through the pages of Martin, Gayarre and others is full of interest and thrilling adventure, and there are many spots in and around the old city, consecrated with the blood of heroes and patriots, which deserve to be commemorated with storied monu- ments. Perhaps they will come some day. As it is, such spots, so far as they can be identified, are worthy of the attention of those whose hearts are capable of thrilling in sympathy with glorious deeds. One such spot is the place on Bayou St. John — though now, perhaps, it would be impossible to identify it — where, in 1718, Bienville, with some fifty followers, landed from his voyage in small boats across Lake Pontchar- train, and decided to found a city on the spot, between the bayou and the river, which, with uncommon foresight, he perceived was bound to be the great artery of commerce for the immense territory drained by that noble stream. It is, perhaps, the orily considerable city in the country, whose site was deliber- ately chosen, that has justified by its history the foresight of its founder. From the day that Bienville set his foot upon the ground on the banks of Bayou St. John, New Orleans has been an inhabited city. The spot is surely worthy of commemoration. It is prob- ably somewhere in the neighborhood of Bayou Bridge, at the foot of Esplanade street. ^ The Place des Armes is another spot notable in the history of New Orleans. It is the square now occupied by Jack- son Square, and its change of name is a notable instance of that ruthless dis- regard of historic sanctities which •seems characteristic of Americans. New Orleans has no patent on this vandalism. All over the country we look in vain for historic names which, fur some mere fad or whim, or im- mature aestheticism, have been rele- ' gated to oblivion. New Orleans had a better reason than that for dedicating its Place des Armes to the great soldier I and president whose name it now bears, bu.t yet an insuSicient reason. As the Place des Armes it was first laid out by Bienville's engineer, and the Place des Armes it ought to be still. The name is consecrated by a thousand historic associations of the ; early city. Here were held, from the very beginning, those public meetings where all matters of common interest and public policy were discussed, and the first settlers of the city, though , loyal, even devoted subjects of the I King of France, learned those first j lessons of self-government which taught ! them later how to become free citizens ! of a free republic. Here Don de Ulloa ! received the keys of the city and took possession of Louisiana in the name of the King of Spain in 1762, and here j met the resolute band of patriots under j the heroic Villere, who renounced the authority of Spain, declared their in- dependence in 1768 and sent the Spanish governor packing back to his own country. It was here that Captain General Don Allesandro O'Reilly land- ed with an army too powerful for the little colony to resist, and took formal possession of Louisiana in the name of the King of Spain, bringing the scarce- fledged . republic to an untimely end; and here that, a few days later, he shot to death, as rebels and traitors, the leaders of the French patriots. It was in this same Place des Armes that Don Bernardo de Galvez, one of the most heroic figures in Louisiana's history, appeared in 1779 before a great popular meeting of the citizens and won their hearts. Thought but a boy, scarcely 21 years of age, he held a commission as captain general of the province, but he told the citizens, with his sword in his hand, that he would j not accept the ofiice without their con- j sent and promise of loyalty. They j clamorously confirmed his appointment, ', and it was from this same Place des i Armes that he led a little army to j some of the most notable victories over I the English that were ever won on this I continent. — 11 .'~V Many other notable events in the his- tory of New Orleans lend, for the de- vout student of history, a mystic charm to this interesting spot. It was the heart of the life of the old city, this Place des Armes, and its name should never have been changed. The Battle Field of Chahnette is an- other most notable historic point. Of course, everybodj- who knows any- thing of the liistory of his count ry, knows all about the battle where Gen- eral Jackson, with his handful of regu- lars, his unerring Kentucky ni arks- men and his entbu- sias ti c Louisiana volunteers, v a n - quished the most valiant veterans of the British army and saved New Or- leans from ruthless invaders. The field, just be- low the city, is still in very much the same condition in which it was when the battle was fought, and there are still some traces of the works which covered the gallant defenders of liberty. The lines of de- fense and attack may still be followed by the curious student, and every now and then some relic of the battle, a broken sword, or piece of a gun, a musket ball or a moldering bone, are found to bear witness to the fierce struggle that took place there. The grand old monument which com- memorates the decisive victory is well worth seeing. The "Cabildo," one of the antique buildings which flank the Cathedral, looking on Jackson Square, is a place of no little historic interest. It is the one on the upper side of the ecclesias- tical edifice, and is now used as the Supreme Court chambers. It was built long before the other, and was the primitive capitol of the colony of Louis- iana. Within its walls all the formal transfers of the country from one government to another have been made. ~^M\m\\ CHALMETTE MONUMENT, It was within its walls that the higb commissioner absolved the people of Louisiana from their oaths of fealty to the crown of France and handed them over, much against their will, to the dominion of his Catholic majesty of Spain. Later on they were turned over here to the King of France again, and in the same building Governor- Claiborne, represen- ting the United States, received hem into the privi- leges of citizens ot his great repiiblic. In 1826, when Gen- eral Lafayette wa.s. entertained by tlie city of New Orleans, the Cabildo was fit- up as a resi- dence, and was the home of that distin- guished friend of liberty during hi&- stay in the cit.v. The lower court building is not so old as the Cabildo, and occupies what was formerly the site of a monastery of Capucliins, The grounds of the mon- astery originally covered several squares, and it was here that for many years resided Father Antonia de la Sedella, better known as Pere Antoine. When this earnest ecclesiastic first ar- rived on American soil, he came with letters from the Grand Inquisitor of Spain,, authorizing hira to establish, the Inquisition in Louisiana, aud ap- plied at once to the governor for au- thority to carry out the orders of the Holy Office. That very night a file of soldiers aroused him from his bed and forced him to go aboard ship and leave the country. He returned afterward, but never attempted further to estab- lish the Inquisition. The Commanderia, which was the military headquarters during the time of the Spanish occui;ntion, is at 115- (old number) Royal street, and is an interesting specimen of the architecture of the old city. At the corner of St. Louis and Chartres streets is rather an imposing: — 13 — edifice, surmounted by a cupola. At the time of the fall of Napoleon I it ■was understood that the unfortunate anonarch designed to go into voluntary exile in Louisiana, and a wealthy ad- mirer of his built this house with the purpose of presenting it to the great Frenchman as his residence. ■ OBJECTS OF ARTISTIC INTEREST. It has been asserted that New Or- leans is very poor in public monuments, -and this is measurably true, though, considering the size of the city, it is not so badly provided in this respect ^s many other places in the country, .and the few to be found here are of no -ordinary artistic merit. One of the first things that strikes the eye of the ■stranger is the mag- nihceut bronze sta- tue, of heroic size, representing that -great statesman. -Henry Clay, who ^' would rather be J'ight than p r esi- •dent." It stands on Canal -street in an attitude ■of calm reasoning, jiigh over the bustle -and roar of New ■Orleans' busiest thoroughfare, a very symbol of civic wis- dom, which guides .and guards the busy -activities of Ameri- •can commerce. It is the work of an American sculptor. Joel T. Hart, of Kentucky, and is uni'versally admired both as a portrait -and a work of art. The bronze eques- trian statue of (jeu- •eral Andrew Jack- •son. "the Savior of 2(ew Orleans,'' which stands in Jackson Square, is one of the most noted art pro- -tluctions in the Uni- ted States. It was •executed by Clark -Mills, the famous sculptor, and is an j but an earthquake could tumble it over. The Franklin sta- tue, in the middle of Lafayette Square, i8> a tine piece of work by the celebrated sculptor, Powers. It is lite-size, of white marble, and repre- sents the great states man and philosopher standing in athought ful attitude, with one arm resting oh the stump of a light-- uiug- shivered tree, while the other, hand is supported on 18 ^his hip. The art work is most admira- ble; but the statue, which was erected in 1872, is beginning to show the effects of exposure to the atmosphere. It ought to be housed, and, indeed, the sculptor has said that it was not in- tended for an out-of-door location, and would appear to much better advan- tage in a hall or gallery. The Lee Monument, which stands in Lee Circle, ten blocks from Canal America in honor of a woman. Mar- garet Haughery was reared in poverty,, and made a fortune for herself in the milk and bakery business. Early in life- her sympathies were enlisted in behalf of the orphans, and she dedicated her whole time and fortune in their inter- ests. She was one of the noblest phil- anthropists that the world has ever seen, and as such the people of New Orleans dedicated this memorial to her. MARGARET MONUMENT. street, up St. Charles, is a magnificent memorial dedicated to the South's great hero, General Robert E. Lee. It is a graceful shaft of white marble, rising nearly 70 feet from a shapely granite base, and surmounted by a statue of the great General 15 feet high. So skillfully has the sculptor calculated the effect of his distances that the statue, seen from the ground, has the appearance of being about life-size. The Margaret Monument, which stands in Margaret Park, at the inter- .5ection of Camp and Prytania, is well worth seeing, not only for its artistic merit, which is not slight, but also that it is the first statue raised in It is carved in marble, and represents her seated with her arm thrown pro- tectingly and affectionately around one of her little proteges. The Cemeteries of the city are rich in fine specimens of mortuary sculpture, among which are deserving of special notice the Italian monument in the old St. Louis Cemetery, the Confed- erate Monument, the Washington Ar- tillery Monument and the Army of Northern Virginia Monument, in Metairie Cemetery. New Orleans is sadly deficient in anything like a public art gallery, a want which will some day be sup- plied; but it has many fine paintings by 14 — ■various old masters and others in its private homes. The Frescoes on the ceilings of the CJotton Exchange are considered by -connoisseurs well worth inspection, and the windows, some of them, in the Jesuit's Church, on Baronne street, are said to be especially fine examples of art glass work. THE CONFEDERATE MONUMENT. THE CHURCHES. Quite a number of very fine examples of Ecclesiastical Architecture are to be seen in New Orleans, and not the least among them is the Cathedral, which was originally built in the most public and central spot of the city, in the middle of the eastern side of the Place des Armes, facing the river. It is dedi- cated to St. Louis, the great patron of France, and is built in the Renaissance style of architecture. The first building on the site was constructed of wood and adobe, being erected by the piety of the city's founders almost before they had homes for themselves. In 1723 it was destroyed by a tremendous hurricane, which leveled a great part of the infant and ill-constructed city. A new Cathedral was built the follow- ing year, which was burnt in the great fire on Good Friday, March 21, 1788, in common with the greater part of the city. This conflagration was so disas- trous that for a long time the colony was unable to rebuild its temple, and the mass was celebrated in a temporary structure till 1794, when Don Andres Almouaster, a wealthy Spanish noble- man, decided to rebuild the Cathedral at his own expense, providing that a mass was to be said every Saturday for the repose of his soul. The plan origin- ally selected was of the usual heavy Spanish style, the front having three great round towers. In 1851 the old building was remodeled to its present state. The towers were surmounted by spires and the facade was made more imposing by the addition of columns and pilasters. In 1892 the in- 15 — IG- terior was frescoed and decorated by Humbrecht, and the work has been Tery much praised by connoisseurs. The body of the builder of the church lies buried before the altar of St. P^rancis, with a marble slab iu the floor above it inscribed with his worthy deeds. He seems to have made a noble use of the goods witn which he was blessed. The altar to the left of the high altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Ixturdes, and is decorated with many votive offerings from those who have been blessed by her intercession. One of the curiosities of the Cathe- dral for the stranger is the "Suisse," or beadle, who has charge of the church to preserve order. He appears, according to ancient custom, in cocked hat, red coat, sword and halberd. The Jesuits' Church is located on Baronne street, at the corner of Com- mon. It is beautifully decorated. The altar is especially costly and splendid, and is worthy of minute examination. The statue of the Blessed Virgin, over I the altar dedicated to her, is of white I marble, and was originally ordered by I Queen Marie Amelia, of France, for I the chapel in the Tuileries. The rev- olution of ISiS prevented its being put in place, and, being offered for sale, it was purchased for this church by some devout ladies. St. Patrick's Church, on Camp street, seven blocks above Canal, is one of the finest specimens of architecture of the city. As the name would indicate, it was built by the Irish citizens for their use, and was dedicated to the I patron saint of Ireland. It is a large I edifice, nearly pure Gothic in style, I being modeled after the celebrated Cathedral of York, and its proportions- j are very satisfying to the eye. j St. Joseph's Church, on Tulane ave- ! nue, near the Charity Hospital, is nota- I ble as being the second largest church in the United States. The nave is I 215 feet long, and rises to the height CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL, ST. CHARLES AVENUE. — 17- of 95 feet from the floor. The lofty arches, supported on beautiful columns of red granite, give a very giand effect. With the high basement and all,- the church rises 150 feet into the air, mak- ing it a prominent landmark in the city. The church has some magnificent art work in the way of stained glass, and the stations of the cross, elaborate- ly carved bas-reliefs, are worthy of a close inspection. The Episcopal Church has several notable edifices in New Orleans. Christ Church is, perhaps, the most interesting of all, on account of its history, being the pioneer Protestant organization of the Southwest. In 1805 the Protestant citizens of the town determined to have a society of their own, and held a meeting to de- termine by ballot to what denomination it should belong. A large majority of the votes were in favor of the Episco- pal faith, and accordingly the church was organized on that line. A small edifice was erected, where the congre- gation worshiped until 1847, when, un- der the Rev. Dr. Hawks, a preacher of great power, a large building was erected on Canal street, at the corner of Bourbon. Here the congregation worshiped until 1886, when the de- mands of business made a change necessary, and the beautiful Gothic cathedral was erected on St. Charles • avenue and Sixth street. It is a beau- tiful building, and will repay an in- spection. Trinity Church, on Jackson avenue and Coliseum street, is a fine building and the home of one of the wealthiest congregations of the city, though it has few pretensions to architectural beauty. Its most noticeable artistic feature is a magnificent stained-glass window, a memorial of the "Fighting Bishop," General Leonidas K. Polk, who was the pastor of this church and the Bishop of Louisiana during the war. St. Paul's Church, on Camp street, opposite Mar^'aret Park, is a handsome TEMPLE SINAI, CARONDELET STREET, NEAR HOWARD AVE- 18- building of the modern school, which was erected, a short time ago, to re- :place an older church destroyed by ■fire. Its most remarkable feature is its tower, which is a reproduction of a famous structure in Oxford, England. The church is expensively finished with pavements and wainscot of colored marbles, and has a pleasing interior. This building was erected under the efficient management of Rev. H. H. Waters, who has been in charge of the parish since 1875. and who is and has been especially dear to his people since his heroic conduct during the last yel- low fever epidemic in 1878. When the scourge broke out Mr. Waters was away from the city on his vacation. Though he had never had the dread disease, he hurried back to the city and remained with his people, com- ;forting the sick and burying the deau, regardless of his own peril. This church "has a fine vested choir of boys and makes strangers welcome at its ser- vices. The First Presbyterian Church, which stands on the south side of liafayette Square, is a very handsome specimen of architecture. It is Gothic in its general design, and is surmount- ed by a graceful steeple 219 feet high. The interior is lofty, airy and well adapted to the worship of the denomi- nation to which it belongs. The pas- tor is the Rev. Dr. B. M. Palmer, one of the most eloquent and eminent Presbyterian divines of the countrv. Temple Sinai, on Carondelet street, near Howard, the worshipping place the Reformed Jewish Congregation, is one of the notable religious buildings of the city. It is built in an adapta- tion of the Byzantine style of archi- tecture, with alternate layers of white and red brick, which give a very pleas- ing effect. A large and wealthy con- gregation gathers there every Sabbath. The Church of the Messiah, on St. Charles street, just below Lee Circle, is a curious piece of architecture and well worth seeing. It is octagonal in form, with aisles and clerestory, and has a rather agreeable effect. The church was built in 1854 for the use of the celebrated Unitarian minister, Dr. Clapp. The CaroTidelet Street Methodist Church, on Carondelet street, near Lafayette, is the home of the oldest and most prominent Methodist congre- gation in the city. The building is mas- sive and substantial to the eye, and, while not pretending to many of the graces of architecture, is well adapted to its purposes, and conveys an im- pression of permanence and power. The Greek Ortho«iox Church, on Dol- honde, near Esplanade street, is wor- thy of mention, to note the presence in our city of an exponent of the prin- ciples of this most venerable sect, really the eldest sister of the Protes- tant family. The church is a small building, and is seldom open for wor- ship, as the congregation is too small to maintain a priest. •19- PUBLIC BUILDINGS. New Orleans has not a few public buildings which are worthy of more than a passing glance from the sight- seer. Some of them have few rivals in the country in architectural magnifi- cence. The Cotton Exchange is a notable example. It is situated on the corner of Cai-ondelet and Gravier streets, in the midst of one of the busiest sections ments. The interior is one grand apartment, surmounted with a splendid dome supported on elegant Corinthian columns, and beautifully decorated with paintings. The gallery is always ac- cessible to visitors, and members are always ready to furnish cards of ad- mission to the floor to properly intro- duced strangers. The City Hall, which stands on the COTTON EXCHANGE. of the city, and is the heart which reg- ulates the pulsation of New Orleans' most important industry. The fluctua- tions of prices in its cotton ring are felt in the remotest trade centers of the world. It is a beautiful building of Renaissance style, with an exterior of cream-colored stone, elaborately sculpt- wred with bas-reliefs and other orna- west side of Lafayette Square, is a massive building, with a handsome portico modeled after the famous Athenian Parthenon. Over the portico is a fine group in bas-relief, represent- ing Justice, surrounded with the em- blems of the industries of the Missis- sippi valley. The building is occu- pied by the offices of the city govern- ment. One of its notable features is the fine library, open to the use of the public. Here may be '^een the "Vie de Caesar," by Napoleon III, which was presented to the city by the im- perial author. The new Courthouse, situated on Tulane avenue and Rampart street, is well worth seeing, both for its hand- some exterior, thoroughly modern in style, and expressing in every line the solid majesty of the law, and for its commodious interior arrangements, carefully adapted to the needs of thing for it to eat away a half mile of its bank on one side, and deposit earth to make as much land on the other; and so here, just east of the custom- house, where formerly was the river channel, 200 feet deep, are now solid blocks of buildings and busy streets. The building is 81 feet high and measures 340 feet on Canal street by 297 on Decatur street. The build- ing is made entirely of stone and brick, and is fireproof throughout. Built, as it is, on a bottomless soil, great difficulty was experienced in se- THE CITY HALL. justice. The city jail is in the same building. The United States Custom-house, at Canal and Decatur streets, is one of the most s.dmired buildings of the city and of the country for its perfect symmetry and grace. It is built of gray granite, and occupies an entire square. This square was formerly on the immediate bank of the river, and was occupied by Fort St. Louis, one of the original defenses of the old city. The Mississippi River, as dwellers on its banks know to their cost, is an extremely erratic stream and floweth where it listeth. It is no uncommon curing a foundation, and the work had to proceed very slowly. The operations progressed at intervals for more than thirty years, and even yet the building is not finished according to the plans. The corner-stone was laid by Henry Clay, in 1847. The edifice was originally estimated to cost $800,000, but already considerably more than $4,000,000 has been spent upon it, and it is said that it will take nearly a million more to finish it. One of the most notable parts of the build- ing is the famous "Marble Hall," situ- ated in the middle of the pile. It is the main business room of the cus- toms department, and is considered by connoisseui-s one of the most splendid rooms in the world. It is 128 feet long by 84 feet in width, and has a height of 58 feet. The walls are dec- orated with many handsome sculptures, and the ceiling, of iron and ground glass, is supported by 15 fluted col- umns of white marble, each 41 feet high. Some of the best views of the city are to be obtained from the roof, which is accessible to visitors on ap- plication to the janitor. Besides con- taining the Custom-house, the building is occupied by the United States courts, by the Post Office, and other Federal departments. The Howard Memorial Library, cor- ner Camp and Howard, was erected by Miss Annie Howard as a memorial of her father, the late Charles T. How- ard. It is a decidedly unique building, erected after plans by the famous Association of Confederate Veterans, to be used as a museum of war relics and a meeting place. Many ragged battle flags lend their glory to the place, and numerous other curious mementoes of the South's gallant struggle and of her honored heroes are to be seen there. The Charity Hospital, on Tulane avenue and Howard street, is an insti- tution of which New Orleans is justly proud, and for the maintenance of which she gives liberally. Its erec- tion was begun by private benefaction, backed by the help of the State, in 1832, after the plans of the Shrews- bury Hospital, England. Numerous additions have been made to it since, as necessity demanded and means came to hand. Only recently it has been increased bj 'e addition of a splendid amphithea, ? and operating rooms, and is to-day one of the best THE HOWARD MEMORIAL LIBRARY. architect of Ti'inity Church, Boston, Richardson. The material is undressed brown stone, and the whole effect, though striking one oddly at first, is eminently satisfactory. Within the building is handsomely finished in wood, and is most conveniently ar- ranged for the purposes for which it was intended. The library itself, while not large, is very select, and is free to the use of all well-behaved per- sons; but the books may not be taken out of the library. The Confederate Memorial Hall, which stands next the library, was erected by the liberality of Frank T. Howard, Esq., and presented to the appointed and equipped hospitals in the country. Its services are free to all who need them. The Touro Infirmary, situated on Prytania street, between Aline and Foucher, is one of the most important institutions of the city. It was original- ly founded by Judah Touro, a Jewish gentleman, noted alike for his wealth and benefactions, who gave for its use a handsome mansion in what is now the cotton press district. The growth of industries around it rendering the site unsuitable for its purposes, the hos- pital, by the co-operation of the Hebrew Benevolent .^.ssociation and of the Jew- ish citizens generally, was removed to 33- its present site some twelve years Bince. Large additions and improve- ments have recently been made, and it is considered one of the best equipped hospitals in the South. While such pa- tients as are able to pay are charged for what they receive, the Infirmary, through the benefactions of the B'nai B'rith, is enabled to do a large chari- table work, especially in the line of outside clinic and dispensary, a feature that has been largely developed of late. The Hotel Dieu, on Tulane avenue and Johnson street, is another great hospital, belonging to the Sisters of Charity. The Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat Free Hospital is at No. 29 North Ram- part street. It is a charitable institu- tion, and its blessings are widespread. Hospital de la Sainte Eamille is at No. 40 St. Bernard avenue. Camp NichoUs Soldiers' Home is on Bayou St. John, near Esplanade ave- nue. The Exchange Building, Royal street, corner Customhouse, Is an im- posing structure, with a handsome front of white stone. It was here that the famous trial took place of General Walker, the celebrated Central Ameri- can filibuster. Latterly the building has been used as a dance hall. Tulane University of Louisiana oc- cupies a splendid and imposing collec- tion of new buildings on St. Charles avenue, opposite Audubon Park. The buildings stand in the midst of a large campus, admirably laid out for the convenience of the institution and of the students. They are constructed in modern style, and thoroughly fur- nished with everything conducive to the efficiency of the university. All the buildings contemplated in the plan of the university have not yet been erected. When they are complete, the country will hardly have a better ap- pointed institution of learning. Tulane University was originally founded by the State as the University of Louisiana and, until 1893, occupied a group of four large and fine-looking buildings on University Place and Common street. The name was changed in 1888 out of compliment to Paul Tulane, an eminent merchant of the city, who donated more than a million dollars to make the University worthy of the State. This fund has been safely- invested, and only the income is usetl to further the interests of the Uni- versity. The H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial College, located on Washington ave- nue, corner Chestnut street, is a wel! 23 — appointed institution for the higher education of women and is a regular department of Tulane University. The Medical Department of Tulane University occupies a building of its own on Canal street, corner Villere, the gift of Mrs. Ida A. Slocomb Rich- ardson. It is a handsome building, and is elaborately fitted up with every con- venience demanded by the most recent medical science. The department was originally founded as a separate school in 1834. It is one of the best known medical schools of the country, and as the students have the entree of the neighboring Charity Hospital, with its thousands of patients yearly, it offers New Orleans in 1727, after a voyag«- of incredible danger and hardship. The old Convent is the antique and ; curious structure now occupied as a palace by the Archbishop of New Or- leans, at the corner of Chartres and [Jrsuliues streets. It is a charming specimen of the style of architecture of the beginning of the eighteenth century, and is well worth a visit. The well-behaved visitor is freely ad- mitted, and if he choose, may pay his respects to the Archbishop, Mgr. Jans- sens, in whom he will find an unas- suming, genial gentleman, as well as one of the most eminent ecclesiastics of the country. About half a century ago these quar*- UHARITY HOSPITAL-MAIN ENTRANCE. rare advantages of practical clinical instruction to its students. The Ursuline Convent is one of the institutions well worth seeing, and one of the oldest institutions of learning in the United States. At the first founding of the city, Sieur Bienville decided that educational facilities must be pro- vided for its children, and invited the Ursuline Nuns of Rouen to supply them. Eleven sisters were sent in response to this appeal, and landed at ters were found too narrow for the^ growing necessities of the good sisters, and the present Ursuline Convent was erected on a spacious property on North Peters street, near Poland. It consists of a group of buildings, the principal one of which, a very long one, painted white and facing the river, is a prominent landmark as vessels ap- proach the city from below. The Straight University, corner of Canal and Tonti streets; the Leland^ — 24 University, St. Charles avenue, near Audubon, and the Southern Universi- ;4j, on Magazine street, near Dufossat, The Masonic Temple, St. Charles street, corner Perdido, is a point of in- terest to many people. It is a hand- -are noteworthy as being some of the most important institutions of the country for the education of the colored j)eople. some building of brick and stone, after plans by architect James Freret, and is decorated vrith good taste in strength and beauty. The lower floors are oc- •26- tupied by stores and offices, aud the upper stories by lodgerooms. The Washington Artillery Armory stands on St. Charles street, above Girod, and while it has few architect- ural attractions to recommend it, ex- cept its size, it is well worth a visit. The Washington Artillery was first organized in 1847 by General Persifor Smith, and fought through the Mexi- can war and the late civil war. It was considered the leading artillery organ- ization on the Confederate side. The Armory contains a small, but interest- ing collection of battle flags, arms and pictures. In the drill hall is a life- sized painting by Julio, which is con- sidered fine. It represents the meeting of General R. E. Lee and "Stonewall" Jackson during the battle of Chancel- lorsville. The portraits are said to be exceptionally good. The members of the organization take a great pride in the historic fame of their organization, and are very proud to show its quarters to strangers, par- ticularly to the veterans who fought against them in the great struggle. . .L U,^\ r <- -^ - ..ft-S j»',--fir^teP guiiaittiii SUGAR EXCHANGE. THE HAUNTED HOUSE. The Haunted House, of which a very interesting history, originally written for the Picayune by Miss Marie Points, was on sale at the World's Fair at Chicago, is one of the sights of the city. It stands on the corner of Royal and Hospital streets, and was one of the most splendid mansions of the city in the long ago. Here, 'in 1831 and afterward, lived a Mme. Lalaurie, who was very wealthy and moved in the first circles of the aristocratic society of the time. She possessed numerous slaves, whom she treated with the most abominable cruelty, starving, tor- turing, flaying them alive, until her barbarities becoming known to the pub- lic, she was compelled to flee for her life. The house was wrecked at the time by the indignant populace, and it is said that no tenant has been able to occupy it since on account of th» ghosts of the murdered slaves, who hold high carnival there at times. Few visitors come to New Orleans without taking a look at "The Haunted House." 27 THE THEATRES. The French Opera House, situated on the corner of Bourbon and Toulouse streets, is considered by experts to be one of the most perfect buildings of the sort in the country. It was erected in 1860, after plans by Ballier, a well- known French architect. It has an imposing front, with a beautiful bal- cony and suitable approaches. Tbe au- dience room is oval in fo;m, giving it a great breadth, and is furnished with five tiers of seats, after the French fashion, with boxes, dress circle, etc. Here is usually maintained, and at great expense to the subscrib- ing patrons, an annual season of French opera — forty nights — by care- fully selected troupes of artists, engaged in France, and a most capable local chorus. Here are to be seen, e.spe- cially on Saturday and Sunday nights, the elite of New Orleans society in full dress. The French Opera is one of the characteristic features of New Orleans, and is to be found nowhere else in the country. The Grand Opera House, Canal street, near Dauphine, wa.^ erected a few years since by a private company at great expense. It is a handsome building, beautifully decorated, com- fortably furnished and conveniently fitted with all proper accessories. During the season its stage is occupied with the best attractions to be procured. The St. Charles Theatre, on St. Charles, near Poydras, is the largest theatre in tha city, except the French Opera House, and is a favorite resort. It is sometimes called the "Old Drury,"^ as its boards have been trodden by Kean, Macready, the elder Booth, E, Li. Davenport, Ellen Tree, Char lotte Cushman — in fact all the favorite actors of the past generation. The stage j is especially large and admirably fur- nished. The Academy of ]Music, St. Charles street, near Commercial alley, is a smaller theatre, but it has a pretty au- ditorium and is a great favorite with the patrons of the stage. Odd Fellows' Hall, Camp street, near Poydras, is a handsome building, and contains a spacious and handsomely furnished hall, which is in great de- mand for lectures, concerts, balls, flow- er shows, and other purposes of public entertainment. THE CLUBS. The Woman's Club is one of the institutions of New Orleans. It was organized some 15 years ago by Miss Margaret Bisland (now Mrs. Whetmore, of New York), and has existed, with varying fortune, ever since. It is a club in the true sense of the word. It does not interest itself particularly in the political or social questions of the day, but exists purely for the von- venience of the members. It offers all the facilities for boarding, etc., which are found in ordinary men's clubs, and is open to rich and poor alike. What work it undertakes to do is for the benefit of the members, and to amelio- rate the condition of *he laboring masses, in which the club takes a lively interest. The club gives a lit- erary or musical entertainment every Monday evening, which is open to all properly introduced strangers. The club has rooms on Camp street, near Clio, which are appropriately and hand- somely fitted up. The Portia Club is a younger organ- ization among the ladies of the city. It was founded some three years since, and has now a large and influential, membership. This club is specially in- terested in securing the suffrage and other rights of women. It advocates an educational restriction of the ballot only, and is an ardent friend of the 'cause of prohibition. It meets twice a month, on Saturday evenings, at the rooms of the Woman's Club, for the discussion of the political and economic questions in which it is interested, and once a month has a public dis- cussion, to which outsiders, if properly introduced, are welcome. The Arena Club is a mixed one, hav- ing both men and women as members. It is devoted to the cause of women's suffrage and to the discussion of lit- erary and politico-economic questions. It holds a weekly meeting at the resi- dence of the President, ]\Irs. Ferguson, and once a month holds a public meet- •28- ing, at which some important question is discussed. Among other things, the Arena Club is strongly in favor of the Single Tax, and is deeply interested in the elevation of the masses. There are a number of Social Clubs in the city with handsomely furnished ■clubhouses, fitted with reading-rooms, restaurants, and all the comforts and ■conveniences of club life. The Pickwick Club is one of the most prominent of these. It has a member- ship of some 300 of the most prominent gentlemen of the city. It built and formerly occupied the handsome build- ing on the corner of Canal and Caron- •delet, now the Pickwick Hotel. The club was burnt out in the winter of 1894-95, after which it sold its build- ing and removed into its present quar- ters. The Boston Club is composed mainly •of merchants and professional men, and occupies a handsome building on -Canal street, near St. Charles. The Harmony Club is the association ■of the leading Jewish citizens of New Orleans, and occupies handsomely ap- pointed quarters on Canal street, near Carondelet. The Commercial Club is composed of business men. It has a membership of about 600, and a well appointed clubhouse on Canal street, above Ca- rondelet. The New Orleans Chess, Checkers and Whist Club has more than a thou- sand members, and its much frequented rooms are on the corner of Canal and Baronne. La Variete Club is composed of stock- holders of the Grand Opera House, and makes its home in the Oisera Build- ing. Strangers well introduced can readily procure tickets from members of most of these organizations admitting them for a limited time to the privileges of the clubs. The Southern Athletic Club is one of the oldest organizations of the kind in the south, and belongs to the National Amateur Athletic Union. It has a membership of over 1000 and owns a splendidly appointed clubhouse and gymnasium on the corner of Prytania street and Washington avenue, furnish- ed with a rubber racing track, a swim- ming pool, hot and cold baths, and all modern appliances. The Young Men's Gymnastic Club has its clubhouse at M North Rampart street, and a perfect one it is. The rooms are fitted up with great elegance, and the gymnasium is all that could be desired. Experts declare that there is not another its equal in the United States. The membership is very large and composed of the first young men of the city. The Olympic Club is noted through- out the country as having managed some of the greatest prize fights of the world. Its rooms, gymnasium and arena are a good ways down Koyal street (old No. 63G), and it was here that the famous bruiser, John L. Sullivan, met his Waterloo at the hands of James J. Corbett. The Southern Yacht Club has a fine clubhouse at the mouth of the New Basin Canal, at West End, for the accommodation of its members- New Orleans presents unrivaled fa- cilities for yachting and boating on account of the proximity of Lake Pont- chartrain. Lake Borgne, the Mississippi Sound and the adjacent bayous, and this club has a large membership and possessess some of the finest yachts of the country. Regattas are frequently held during ihe summer in the lake and along the sound, and are occasions of great pleasure. Rowing, rlso, is assiduously culti- vated in the city, and there are several boat clubs which have their houses at West End, and on Bayou St. John. St. John's Club, at West End. is one of the most prominent. The Jockey Club has a splendid club- house on Esplanade street, near Bayou Bridge. This was originally a private residence. It is a two-story brick man- sion, with large wings, and is hand- somely and conveniently furnished, containing, among other things, a fine bowling alley. The house stands in the midst of ample grounds, which are beautifully laid out and maintained with great care. Here the members of the club, during the spring and sum- mer, frequently entertain themselves and their friends with music, dancing and other divertissements, the house and grounds being converted into a veritable fairyland with electric lights and colored lanterns gleaming through the shrubbery. Well introduced strang- ers are always made welcome to these entertainments. POPULAR RESORTS. The "West End, situated on Lake | which starts on Canal street, near Pontchartrain, at the mouth of the \ the Clay Statue. New Basin Canal, may be called the ' At West End will be found a number Coney Island of New Orleans. It is about five miles from the heart of the city, and is reached by a dummy train. of hotels and restaurants and all sorts of devices for public amusement. On an immense platform, built on piles over the water of the lake, is a music -stand, where a fine band discourses music every evening during the summer to all who care to listen. These open air ■concerts are extremely popular, thou- sauds of people resorting thither night- ly to enjoy the music and the cool breezes from the lake. The resort is thoroughly respecta- ble, and the best of order is maintained at all times, none of the gambling or low amusements which too frequently degrade such resorts about the North- ern cities being tolerated there. Spanish Fort is a small village, with pleasure gardens, situated at the mouth of Bayou St. John, on Lake Pentchar- train. It takes its name from a small fort erected during the Spanish occu- pancy of the country, and called Fort St. John. The fort has long been aban- doned for military purposes and con- Verted into a place of amusement. It was here that General Jackson landed in 1814, when he arrived at N'ew Or- leans to take command and oppose the British invasion. For many years this was the favorite resort of the New Orleans people. It has i-ecently changed hands, and the new proprietors propose to leave no stone unturned to make it the most attractive and popular pleasure resort in the South. Spanish Fort is reached by a steam train, start- ing on North Basin, at Canal. Old Lake, otherwise Milneburg, is a small village, with restaurants, bath- houses and other waterside facilities, situated on the lake shore some four miles from the city. It is reached by a railroad, which starts at the foot of Elysian Fields street. This road has the distinction of being the second railroad built in the United States, and of being the first equipped with a '''platform" for facility of handling freight. This convenience now so uni- versally in use, was the invention of the superintendent of this little road. The Fair Grounds, formerly known as the Gentilly Race Course, are situ- ated near Esplanade avenue and Bayou St. John. This spot has frequently been used for the State Fair, and has suit- able buildings and some very inter- esting gardens and greenhouses, with a lai-ge collection of tropical plants. There is a, fine race course on the grounds, and it is used by the Louisi- ana Jockey Club for the Spring Meets. Audubon Park extends from St. Charles avenue to the river, and is nearly five miles from Canal street by the Prytania or Magazine trolley cars. It is also reached by the St. Charles avenue line, by the Coliseum line, by the Peter's avenue line and several others. The park contains 249 acres, and was originally the plantation of Etienue Bore, who introduced the culti- vation of sugar into Louisiana. The first crop was made here. The park has one of the finest groves of live-oaks in the South, and it has also one of the largest conservatories in the world, filled with all sorts of tropical trees and plants. This building is a remnant of the Great International Exposition, which was held in the park some years since. The Park is yet but pai-tially developed, but its improvement is steadily progressing under the able management of the Audubon Park As- sociation. When the plans are realized it will be one of the most beautiful public parks in the country. The City Park is situated on Metairie road, near Canal street, and is accessi- ble either by the Canal street trolley cars or by the Fair Grounds line. It contains 160 acres of land, and is by nature one of the most beautiful spots anywhere near the city. Magnificent groves of live-oaks embellish it, and an added charm is found in its beauti- ful lake. A wierd attraction hangs around the place from the fact that its grove was, for many years, the favorite dueling ground of the city, and those hoary trees have looked down on many a desperate conflict. 31 — THE CEMETERIES. Not least among the attractions of New Orleans are its cemeteries with their antiquated tombs and their silent records of the loves and heroisms of past generations. Ly- ing so low, as it does, it is almost impossible in the city to bury the dead under the earth, as an excavation of a foot or so in depth is certain to fill immediately with water. In consequence interments are almost wholly made in tombs built above the surface, and, especially in the older cemeteries, these are so crowded to- gether, with but narrow alleys be- tween the rows of mausoleums, that they are veritable cities of the dead. the handsomest tombs to be seen here is that of the Italian Society, which is surmounted by a fine piece of mortu- ary sculpture, deserving more than passing attention. Not far away is the lofty tomb of the Societe Fran- caise, a strong benevolent association among the French-speaking citizens. At the back of this cemetery, beyond a board fence, which separates the consecrated from the uuconsecrated ground, may be found the original monument erected to the memory of General Claiborne the first American governor of Louisiana. It was once a beautiful monument, but now decayed and neglected, and possessing merely CEMETEllY ALLEY. The old St. Louis Cemetery is per- haps the one best worth seeing, as the oldest and most crowded of all. It is situated on Basin street, just beyond what was the original limit of the city, Kampart street, and is bounded by St. Louis and Conti. The grounds here were laid out without any regular order, and the ancient tombs, with their French and Spanish inscriptions, are scattered about, forming tortuous alleys, through which it is difiicult to pick one's way. Most of the tombs here belong to the old Creole families of the colonial city, and in many of the inscriptions may be read names which figure in the colonial history. One of an historic interest, as the remains of the general were long since re- moved to a costly tomb in Metairie Cemetery. There are three other St. Louis cemeteries, situated further away from the heart of the city. They are on Claiborne street, one block north of Canal. They, too, are crowded with tombs, among which may be found the last resting places of many famous in the history of Louisiana. Here lies Judge Martin, the historian and jurist; Alexander Milne, the famous philan- thropist; Delachaise, Plauche, and others. The Girod Street Cemetery, located on Girod street, near the New Basin, 32 — is notable as being the oldest Protest- ant burial place in the city. Shortly after the organization of Christ Epis- copal Church, in 1805, its restry de- termined to have a place where they could lay away their dead according to the rites of their religion, and this spot and who wish to lay their dead wjij^h their beloved departed. The Washington Street Cemetery is another of the older burial places. It is on the corner of Washington and Prytania streets, and is a picturesque and beautiful spot, shaded by noble trees and kept with pious care. was consecrated to that purpose. In its quiet alleys await the resurrection the bodies of many of New Orleans' eminent citizens. These old cemeteries are little used for interments of late years save by those whose family tombs are thpre, The Campo Santo of St. Roch, with its exquisite mortuary chapel, is one of the most notable cemeteries in the city. It is on Claiborne street, four blocks below Elysian Fields street. This Is the burial place of several of the religious orders of the Catholic ■.in — xJhvLTch, and the chapel is noted for many well authenticated miracles per- formed in answer to prayers. For this reason it is a favorite shrine with many devout Catholics suffering under afflic- tions, and many is the pilgrimage made thither to procure the divine blessings, thank offerings for the reception of which are to be seen on every hand. A visit to New Orleans without a pilgrimage to St. Roch's were incom- plete- The Metairie Cemetery, situated at the head of Canal street, is the most picturesque and beautiful in the city, and compares favorably, though yet but new, with some of the most famous cemeteries of the country. It was originally a race course, and was pur- ehased and converted into a cemetery a few years ago by a company, which has spared no expense in its laying out and adornment. Here are the tombs of many of the most notable families of the city, the Washington Artillery Monument, the Army of Tennessee Monument, and many other points of interest. In the same neighborhood are many other burial places; the Hebrew Ceme- teries, the Masonic and Odd Fellows' Cemeteries, and not a few more. The Chalmette Cemetery is situated on the old battle ground, six miles below the city and a mile and a half below the terminus of the Rampart and Dauphine cars. This is a national cemetery, under the care of the gov- ernment, and is tastefully laid out and beautifully kept. THE MARKETS. The Markets of New Orleans are well worth a visit from the northern j tourist, as he will see there many i interesting features of the characteris- tic life of the city. To see them in their perfecttion, he will have to arise early enough to get to the market by sunrise, and loiter about for an hour or two, watching the eager groups of buyers and sellers. If he go too earl.\ for breakfast it will be all the better, as he will be in a condition to appre- ciate the delicious French coffee, and the other palatable things, which he will find offered for sale at some of the stalls. In most of the markets a breakfast can be had better and cheap- er than in any hotel in the city. There are a number of markets scattered at convenient points through the city, the principal of which are the x-'rench Market, the Magazine Mar- ket and the Poydras Market, but the one to be visited by all means is the French Market. It is situated on the Levee, near Jackson Square, seven blocks below Canal street. The market is open daily from 5 a. m. till 11 a. m.. but the great day to see it, if possible, is Sunday. The market is more of an international bazar than any other place of the sort in the United States. Here one .nay see Americans, French, Spaniards, Greeks, Italians, Negroes of all sorts and shades, Indians, China- men, and a sprinkling of almost every other nation under the sun. all bustling about in the most democratic fusion and confusion, and here he will find for sale the fruits, wares and produce of every race and clime. The market is divided into five dis- tinct departments, known as the meat, the bazar, the fruit, the vegetable and the fish markets. In these various de- partments may be bought pretty well everything under the sun, and at the lowest possible prices. Perhaps the most notable of all is the fruit market, where the apples and cherries of the north crowd the bananas and pine- apples and mangoes of the tropics, with the golden oranges of the Louisi- ana peninsula, grapes and apricots from California, and guaves from Mexico, along with a host of other fruits in their season, to keep them company. The Fish Market is one of the won- ders to the inland stranger, and, indeed, the Fulton Market, in New York, one of the most famous fish marts in the world, can show no such tempting varie- ty as may be found here at all seasons of the year. The Gulf of Mexico is famous for the abundance and variety of its food fish, and the Gulf lies right at New Orleans' door. As an eminent divine visiting on the Gulf coast said: "If a man wants oysters, fish, crabs, or anthing else that grows in the wa- ter, all he has to do is to step out into his back yard and get them." Here is the pompano, the sheepshead, the Spanish mackerel, the red snapper, the 34 redfish, the flounder, and other sorts too numerous to mention, besides green turtle, shrimp, crabs (hard and soft), oysters of the most delicious kind — "everything that comes out of the wa- ter"— and everything of the sort amaz- ingly cheap. In these markets, too, are to be found, in the proper season, a quan- tity and variety of game, -which is surprising to one who does not con- sider that wildernesses of swamp and wildwood lie in close proximity to New Orleans on every hand. Here is bear and venison, wild duck, turkey, goose, quail, pheasant, woodcock and all sorts of other game, and all at most mod- erate prices. At the French Market are very tastily-kept stalls, where meals are served at reasonable prices, and with a cookery that might put to shame the most expensive restaurants of New York, or of Paris itself. A curious feature of the Poydras Market is the labor department, where numbers of ntgro women may be found waiting for employment, standing in long rows. Here one can hire a scrub- bing woman, a washerwoman, a cook, or a housemaid, at the regular market price. THE LEVEE. ON THE LEVEE. One of the features of New Orleans which can but prove of great interest to the stranger in New Orleans is the Levee— that is, the river front. It is called the Lfevee because it consists of a great bank of earth thrown up to protect the city from the invasion of the Father of Waters, which at flood rises far above the level of the streets. The river, however, since the city was located on its banks, has, along most of the front, withdrawn itself a good ways from its original channel, so •that many solid blocks of buildings stand where the river flowed when Bienville first looked upon it; and the ■wnstant additions to the levee give a gradual slope up t8 the river front, which makes it difficult for one to re- alize that he is going up hill to the river. But so it is. The slope begins foot of Canal street he will find the Steamboat Landing, where boats of all sorts and sizes, from the stately river packets, side-wheelers, which trade up the river to Vicksburg, Memphis, Cairo and St. Louis, to the little stern-wheel- ers, which run up Red River, and into Bayou Atchafalaya, and the Lower Coast. ui.; r:^^^*„ -<-• at a considerable distance back from the river, and the stranger can realize it as he sees the water in the gutters flowing away from the river, instead of towards it. On the river front itself are many -sights which the visitor, if at all con- versant with commercial matters, can but find of great interest. Near the Here they lie, busily receiving and discharging freight, with a throng of darkies waiting about hoping for a job as longshoremen to assist in the work of handling the cargo, or as roustabouts, to go on the next trip of the vessel. To the old resident of New Orleans, who remembers when the frontage of the river was scarcely sufficient to afford accommodations to the swarms ] of steamboats of all classes that sought her levees aud carried her commerce, it is rather a sad sight to watch the comparatively few now to be seen there. The railroads, reaching north, east and west, with their rapid trans- portation and low rates, have well- nigh killed the river trathc. It is as nothing to what it was. But there IS still enough of it to afford an in- teresting spectacle to the casual visitor from other parts. And there are many other sights of interest to be seen there. Here, near the head of Thalia street, is the Fruit Landing, where almost any day may be found oue or more vessels, iron steamships mostly, discharging great ■cargoes of tropical fruits — bananas, pineapples, cocoanuts, lemons and other things — brought from ports on the Gulf of Mexico aud the Caribbean Sea. A good deal of this fruit stops in New Orleans, especially the ripest of it, and '.s exposed for sale in her markets at ridiculously low prices; but the great bulk of it is loa-ied into cars right at the wharf, and a few hours after the arrival of the ship is fly- ing northward towards St. Louis, Chicago, Cincinnati, Louisville and other cities, to l>e sold there. At no great distance below Canal street are found the wharves of the Cromwell Line, running a regular line of steamships to New York, which never fail of a cargo of sugar, mo- lasses, cotton or other characteristic products of the South. Below that a short distance are the wharves of the Harrison Line, which trades to Liver- pool and runs two or three steamers a week, and sometimes, when the trade Is brisk, one a day or more. Below that is the Morgan Landing, where occasionally is seen a ship of the Morgan Line, trading to New York or to some port on the Gulf, though now the most of this line's Gulf boats land at Morgan City, some eighty miles to the west, receiving their freight and passengers by the Southern Pacific Railroad. Close by this is the Lugger Landing, called also +he "Picayune Tier," where is always to be seen a most picturesque sight. A swarm of luggers gathers here, with their huge square sails tied down on their preturnaturally long booms, or flapping idly in the breeze to dry, while their picturesque crews, Greeks, Italians, Dagoes, French, ne- groes and nondescripts, bustle about unloading cargoes of oranges, oysters, fish, vegetables and all the various produce of the land and water of the lower coast, where they trade through the bayous and lakes; or loiter idly about, smoking their cigarettes, cooking their meals over queer little furnaces fired with charcoal, and wait- ing for some sorl of a cargo. Further along the levee, both above and below Canal street, may be seen at most times of the yeai-, and espe- cially in the winter, when the cotton and sugar are moving, many great tramp steamships, huge iron monsters, which roam about the waters of the world seeking what they may devour in the shape of a cargo, to go they care not where. Yonder, across the river, at Gretna, and on this side at Southport, just above the city, are great grain elevators, where the wheat, oats and corn which come down the river in barges from the granary of the world in the great northwest are stored and loaded directly aboard the immense ships which lie alongside of them. On an- other part of the river, perhaps, you may see at work one of the floating elevators, which transfer the grain directly from the great barges to the hold of the steamship. New Orleans is growing rapidly as a grain port, as the shippers of the northwest discover that it is the most economical route to Europe, or to any other part of the world, and that the grain does not suffer by passing through the warm climate of the Gulf. The Sugar Sheds, which lie along the back of the levee, just below Canal street, are worth a visit. One cannot pass them without realizing the great- ness and importance of the sugar in- dustry of Louisiana. They are great, open buildings, covering block after block in extent, and along about mid- winter you will find them crowded and packed with sugar and molasses in barrels and hogsheads. And, big as they are, they afford scant room for the product that seeks this greatest sugar market in the United States. The barrels of sweets overflow the sheds, crowd all the warehouses in the vicinity, overrun the levee and (block the sidewalks. There is sugar tions is changed into the beautiful •everywhere. white sugar that you see upoa your Close by the sheds are seTcral great crefineries, where the crude prod- table. It is well worth while to look qict of the sugar-houses on the planta- through one of them. OUT-OF-TOWN EXGURSIOMS. The visitor to New Orleans can liardly consider that he has done the place properly unless he has tried some, or all, of the excursions in which thousands of the residents delight. There are a number of them, by rail and by water, and they are all de- lightful. By rail one can reach Baton Rouge, the interesting old town where Louisiana makes her laws, and where there are not a few things worth seeing, over the Mississippi Val- ley Railroad. The Illinois Central will •enable him to spend a day very pleas- antly among the piny woods of Missis- sippi, or at charming Lake Mauchac. The Northeastern will take him out into a forest wilderness; or, by the :Southern Pacific, he can reach the beautiful Teche country, the home of ^'Evangeline," or the wonderful salt mines on Avery's Island. But the most delightful trip of all 5s over to the Gulf coast of Missis- sippi, by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad. The first forty miles of •this route passes through cypress -swamps, and across vast stretches of .grassy marsh, intersected in all direc- •tions by sluggish • bayous, alive with fish, and at every station are fishing -clubs by the dozen, where the enthusi- astic fishermen of the city delight to repair with rod and reel, and return with immense strings of finny victims, r«minent a posi- tion, he naturally mid earlv took an interest in ail matters toucuing the welfare of hisfrien.ls and constitiienfs, ■and fell iufco a Weggish habit of drop- ping occasionally iuto poetry, which never lacks a point. So great has his popularity grown that no public entertainment has been considered complete without him. He has been persistently invited to all sorts of garden parties, fairs, church festivals, etc., where he has always rHE PICAYUNE FROG occupied the post of honor, and the lemonade which he dispenses on such occasions has justly become famous as "Frog lemonade." He has had music dedicated to him by composers; he has been pasted into thousands of scrap-books, and last year, by special invitation, he occupied an honorable place in the Mardi Gras parades. He has even re- ceived the most sin- cere lionor of attempt- ed imitation ; but it was a far-off attempt. The Picayune Frog is one and inimitable. But all this public arlnlation has not turned his head. Ho accei)ts ii all with be- coming modesty, merely taking courage from it to strive harder to deserve the great popular favor which is accorded him. He attends strictl^^ to business; and is daily to be found at his post of duty, toiling with all his might to advance the best in- terests of New Or- leans, and Louisiana, and the whole South, and he means to con- tinue doing so while and popular favor en- health dures. lasts "For the Queen of the South Is New Orleans! The wile Of her beautiful smile Brings my heart to my moutL "To secure me a place In her heart's my sole care" And to die would I dare To prevent her disgrace." — 40 — COTTON YARDS. The Cotton Yards and Compresses should not be overlooked by one who desires to see the characteristic sights of the city. There are a large number of them to be found in the section of the city south of Julia street and east of Constance. The Tchoupitoulas street cars will take one right into the midst of them. The cotton yards, occupying each a full block, are surrounded by high, brick walls, guarded with iron doors, to protect their inflammable con- tents from risk of fire. All around the walls on the inside are immense sheds, roofed with slates, to protect the tieecy staple from the weather; though, in the busy season, when every boat and train into the city discharges huge piles of cotton baJes on her wharves and platfoms, the sheds are altogether insufficient to contain the cotton, and the yards will be found heaped with great stacks of bales, and not infre- quently they overflow to the surround- ing sidewalks, until the cotton district 'Jbecomes wellnigh impassable for them. In almost e^ery yard will be found in operation a compress, a giant ma- chine operated by steam, and com- bining all the mechanical powers to secure the gi-eatest possible pressure in the briefest time. A bale of cotton, measuring, perhaps, four feet through, and pressed as tightly as possible with the machinery employed on the planta- tions, is rolled upon the platform, and the iron ties which hold it are loosened by the rapid hands of the attendants. The engineer moves his hand, and, presto! like lightning the platform flies up toward the immovable frame above it, and the great bale is squeezed to- gether until it is not more than ten inches or a foot in thickness. The iron bands are hastily readjusted to the reduced size of the bale; the mon- ster machine releases its "aold, and the bale falls out, to be speedily followed by another. This compressing costs but a very small sum per bale, and far more fhan pays for itself in the increased number of balos which it enables a ship to carry. A COT'lON YARD. OVER THE LAKE FISHING AND SHOOTING. Any visitor to New Orleans who is tfond of fishing and shooting can get Iboth of the best quality and at slight expense, in the immediate vicinity of ithe city. Only a short distance out •of town, by any of the railroads, can fij.e found lakes and ibay-ous full of the finest game fish, and woods and prairies where resort deer, turkey, geese, ducks, snipe, and sometimes big- ger and more dangerous game. Perhaps the best thing to do, if one desire a day's sport, is to take the early train on the Louisville and Nash- ICoiitiuuod on page 42.] 41 — 819 Canal. — Bourbon — Dauphine — Customhouse. This Book Was Compiled for the Instruction and in the Interest of Visitors.. It Contains Facts -^ Residents Are Familiar With, •One of Which is That This is the Largest General Dry Goods Store In the South. Another is that you, as well as they, are always welcome to stroll through our establishment, use our parlors, stationery, check your packages (free of charge), and, daring your stay in our city, make it your headquarters — examine and price everything we have to sell without feeling the slightest obligation to buy. Thirty-two departments, each as large as a separate store. Silks, Laces, Eibbons, Velvets, Dress Goods, Wash Goods, White Goods, Black Goods, Hosiery, Fancy Goods, Jewelry, Shoes, Men's Furnish- ings, Housefurnisbings, Silverware, China and Crockery, Upholstery, Ladies' Capes and Dresses, Boys' Clothing, Infants' and Ladies' Un- derwear, Corsets, Tin and Graniteware, Linens, Books, Perfumery, Handkerchiefs, Umbrellas, Men's Hats, Millinery, Trimmings, No- tions, Carpets, Curtains. Our Dress-Making Department is under the supervision of » famed French Modiste and a Berlin Man Tailor. ville Railroad, and, if shooting be his object, get ofE at Lee, or Michaud, where he can easily find a guide who ■will show him sport in abundance. If fishing is what he wants, he should go •ion to Chef Menteur, about sixteen -smiles fix)m town; or Lake Catharine, or the Rigolets, a little ways further off. At each of these places are a aumber of fishing clubs, most of them, organized by the sportsmen of New Or- leans for their amusement, and all of them hospitably open to the properly introduced visitor. The green trout (a species of bass) is the favorite game fish of the bayous, i^nd, if the fisherman be well provided with fresh bhrimp or other proper bait, he may expect to fetch home a big string of the beauties, weighing from two to six or seven pounds apiece. At the Rigolets, which is properly an arm of the sea, being the strait which connects Lake Pontchartrim with the Gulf, the sheepshead is caught in great abundance, and speckled sea trout and redfish, and sometimes a pompano or a Spanish mackerel, one of the gamest fish that swims. The mackerel, how- ever, is much more commonly taken in the summer in the waters of the sound at Mississippi City, Biloxi and Ocean Springs. THE MODEL MUSIC HOUSE, In business, as in fashion, the newest, "most up to date" concerns are the ones that n:ost interest the public. New Orleans cannot boast of the large, elegantly appointed stores that abound in northern citiss, but she is coming to the front gradually, and the past year (1895) has seen added to her other attractions a music store fashioned and conducted on the lines pursued by the progressive con- cerns all over the country. Its location, 214-216 Camp street, is central, and yet just removed from the noise and bustle of Canal street, which is a great desideratum in this business, and is flttod up in a manner to invite a visit, while the magnificent stocli of CONOVER, SCHUBERT and KINGSBURY Pianos in the warerooms on the sec- ond floor is well worth critical attention. Business is conducted on modern lines and all instruments have the prices marked on them in plain figures. A full line of sheet music (sold at one-half price) and small instruments of all grades, in- cluding the famous WASHBURN Mandolins and Guitars and STEWART Banjos, is also carried. Talien as a whole, it may be considered the "Mode] Music Store" ot the South, and stamps the DUNNING-MEDINE MUSIC CO.. Ltd., as being "up to date." Don't fail to pay them a visit, and you will find your welcome to be as hearty, whether you call simply as a sight-seer or as a purchaser. STATISTICS OF THE CITY. Following are some statistics, which give an idea of the size and business imiwrtance of the city: Population in September, 1S95 — As estimated by the President of the Board of Health 300,000 As estimated bv the publisher of City Directory 270,000 Miles of Paved Streets- Cobblestone, mostly laid prior to 1S88.. 39.01 Belgian blocks -'Jp Square block pavement ; . . . . ■^J-oy Gravel pavement '^'t'^'n Asplialt pavement o-^^ Vitrified brick _ j^ Total paved streets ^^-^Jo? Miles of electric street car lines 2-o Manufactures — New Orleans is not commonly thought of as a manufacturing city; but the last census revealed the fact that its growth in this respect had been phenomenal during the decade 1880-1890, being more than 100 per cent in the number of establishments, and 150 per cent in the capital invest- ed and hands employed. The figures for 1890 are as follows: Manufacturing establishments 2,001 Hands employed ^^'o^i Capital invested $21,185,358 VS^ages paid 10,048,264 Value of manufactured products... 35.535,596 The growth of the manufacturing in- terests in the city has been even more rapid since 1890 than it was before. Presuming the ratio of gi-owth to have been the same, however, its present condition may be stated as follows, in round numbers: Manufacturing establishments ■ 3,000 Hands employed 40,000 Capital invested $36.000,(10a Wages paid 18,000,000 Value of product 63,000,000 The substantial growth of the city is shown by the fact that during the year ending Sept. 1, 1895, new build- ings were erected to the value of ^3,-< . 099,359. '' There are twenty-four Homestead and Loan Associations operating in the city, with a paid-in capital of some- thing like $6,000,000, the better part of which goes into permanent improve- ments in real estate. Drainage and Sewerage — The drainage and sewerage of New Orleans in the past have been about as bad' as they could be, the drainage being mostly mere surface drainage in the gutters of the streets, helped on by a few pumps to raise the drainage water from the low-lying main ditches to the level of the lake. There has been simply no sewerage at all, the filth of the city being deposited .- in vaults in private yards, and carried I away, when carried at all, by esca- ' vating companies. All this, however, is being rapidly changed. A compre- I hensive plan for the drainage of the I city, prepared after long consideVation I by a competent board of engineers, has been adopted by the city, and will be commenced in 1S9G. The total cost of the work is estimated ati$7,933,- 091. , This drainage is to be discharged into Lake Borgne. A system of sewerage has been in course of construction for some time. It proposes to have the waste and other sewage from residences dis- charged into sewer pipes under the streets, and forced through them by powerful pumps, to be discharged into the river, below the city. New Orleans has lon^ been known as one of the chief commercial centers of the country, and the few statistics for the commercial year ending Aug. 31, 1895, given below, will give some idea of her importance in this particu- lar: Imports .?]3,315,219 00 Exports 68.425,316 00 Tonnage Handled by the Six Prin- cipal Railroads- Forwarded, pounds. Southern Pacific . . 978,717.653 Texas and Pacific. 310,376.020 Louisville & Nash'e 552.190,900 lillinois Central . Mississippi Valley N. O. and N. E... 396,137,000 Received, pounds. 1,119.866,326 662.106.055 674.571.900 470.042.000 1,486.362,000 180,446,000 990,250,000 67,288,000 Total 1894-95 2,887,908,573 5,700,444,281 Number of vessels entered 1,193 Tonnage 1,615,650 Number of vessels cleared 1,174 Tonnage 1,606,825 Banking capital ?8.754,699 49 Individual deposits 22,051.036 80 Loans and discounts 19,118,728 20 Bank clearings 447,211,337 00 Cotton bales received Average value per bale. 2,702,931 ?31 583,790,861 Total value Sugar Received — Hogsheads 59,915 Barrels 1,636,541 Miscellaneous Products Received — Rice, barrels 264,946 Flour, barrels 687,506 Wheat, bushels 1,523,3Z% Com, bushels 2,761,324 Coffee, bags 344,622 THE NEWSPAPER PRESS. This gi'eat oiigine arul agent of j)0]m]iii education and enlightennK'nt is represented in Louisiana by 172 serial publications, of m Inch, 14 are issued daily; 2 semi- weekly ; 147 weekly; 3 semi monthly, and 6 monthly. Of these, 7 are printed in both French and English; 3 in French wholly ; 3 in German ; 2 in Italian, and 1 in Spanish. They are for the most part well- conducted and are excellent exponents of the local interests of the several parishes and districts in which they are printed. The leading newspaper published in Louisiana is the New Orleans I'icAYUNE, which was established in January, 1837. It is the oldest English paper in the city or in the State, its age being surpassed only by that of rAboille (the Bee), which is ten years older and is printed in the French language, and with the two exceptions of the Bee and the Deutsche Zeitung or German Gazette, it is the only paper in New Orleans that has survived the civil war. The Picayune has always been an able, conservative, enlightened representative of the best interests of Louisiana and of the great southwest, in whose progress and development it has had a large share, and no paper in this country has been so close to the people themselves. It is their great tribune and advocate, ever standing against political trickery and official dishonesty, and being free from all corrupt jobs and selfish schemes it has always maintained the highest place in public confidence and favor. The Picayune was started in 1837 by the brilliant and famous George Wilkins Kendall, one of the most distinguished wits of his day, and, perhaps, the first journalist in the world who played the part of a correspondent for the press from military headquarters in the field, Mr. Kendall having accom- panied the United States army of invasion to Mexico during the war of 1846-47, sending to the Picayune the first and freshest news of all the mili- tary operations of that important war. Since then, the Picayune has been conducted by many able and often distinguished men, constantly improving its excellent qualities as a news- E taper, and always growing in influence and ability to represent and work or the people ot New Orleans, of Louisiana, and of the South, until under its present proprietors, Mrs. E. J. Nicholson and Col. Geo. Nicholson, it has reached the summit of journalism and is the leading paper in the great Southwest. A volume could be filled with accounts of the Picayune's enterprise in getting news, from the time of the Mexican war down to the present, but what has been said will suffice. Its complete offices of publication contain- ing the most improved machinery and perfect appliances which science has provided for the production of newspapers and its able and skilled corps of thinkers and workers, combine to make it what it is, one of the great Ameri- can dailies and the chief of all the journals of the Southwest. In closing this brief notice "of the newspaper press it is not inappro- Eriate to refer to the special editions issued by the Picayune, Of these the est known, particular among visitors fiom abroad, are the superbly illus- trated " Caunivau Editions," on.' issue being (b voted to each of the mystic parades—" Rex," "The Kkewe of I'koteus," and tlje " MvoTio Krewe of COMUS." These editions aie printed on lieavy paper from plates specially prepared by talented artists and lithographers." The illustrations are exact reproductions in every detail of the floats and costumes, and the accom- panying letter press "greatly aids the spectator in a full understanding. i.l appreciation of tne subject selected for illustration by the maskers. An im- mense number of these papers are printed and sent broadcast throughout the country. The retail price of eacn copy is ten cents, at the news stands, or twelve cents by mail. A full set (3 copies) will be sent by mail to anjr address for thirty-four cents. Annually, on September 1st, the Trade Edition of the Picayune^, containing an exhaustive review of the financial and commercial transac- tions of the year, is published. Its statistics and articles are prepared by ex- perts, and it is highly esteemed by the commercial community. For some years past it has been the custom of the Picayune to publish on January 2d, a resume of the important occurrences of the preceding twelve months. As no other Southern paper possesses a like feature, and as the table, while paying particular attention to Southern events, does not overlook notable happenings elsewhere, its value as a work of reference is readily apparent. In fact, "so great is the popularity of the work, that it was recently found necessary to reprint the tables from 1885 to 1894 in pamphlet form, under the title of •' Ten Years of the World's History." The book has already met with a large sale. Si Always Reliable, Always GIVING THE Latest News LEADING NEWSPAPER or TliE SOXJTKC. <"' ,vo-"' ^. A^ ^ The Daily Picayune Is a real newspaper. No expense is spared in producing it. Its telegraplilc service Is unsur- passed. Its news gatherei-s cover all places of interest. Its mechanical appliances are mod- ern and the best. Its staff of talented writers and artists is complete. Dally, including Sun- day, $12 a year. The Sunday Picayune Is a household treasure of news, Information and literature. Illus- trated and tastefully presented.! $2 00 a year. The Weekly Picayune Is peerless as a country family] newspaper and literary jotirnil, and no home In the south shoaldi be without It. $1 00 a year. Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process Neutralizing Agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatnnent Date: \ „ PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGIES LP PS^'^-.j 111 I homson Park Drive T ^ Cranberry Township. PA 1 6066 » {724)779-2111 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 005 500 148 0^